Contra Wound Coils
Contra Wound Coils
Contra Wound Coils
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Dave
DE
ES
NL
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Hi Friends. Welcome to my contra coil page. The coils that I am showing on this page are used as the main
tank coils for crystal radios (and tube radios too). I believe that this improved type of tank coil will be one
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TO
START!
The first coil shown is my test prototype cylinder coil. I felt I should build one cylinder type to get the feel of
how this coil will operate. The coil form is a styrene sewer pipe coupler. I bought it at Home Depot. The
outside diameter is 4-1/2 inches (11,5 cm). There are 22 turns of 165/46 litz wire on each winding. Each coil
calculates out to 27 feet (8,25 m), including 6 inch (15 cm) wire leads. The start (s) windings are in the center,
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and the finish (f) windings are towards the form edges. When winding the coil, start at the center. Wind the
first coil. Then when winding the second coil, beginning again at the center. The two start windings will wind
in the same direction around the form. That makes the coil wound reverse, or contra wound around the form.
To connect the coils in series connect the start of one coil to the finish of the other coil. The other leads are
connected to the rest of the circuit. For parallel operation, the two start wires are connected together as
the two finish wire are connected together. The connections to the rest of the radio are from these points.
When the coils are in series, the inductances add (plus the mutual coupling). This is because the coils are in
phase. It is just that the wiring connections jump to different positions on the forms. When the coils are in
parallel, they are also still in phase, but at 1/4 the original inductance value.
The inductance is approximately 240 h in series and 60 h in parallel
THE SWITCH
It is likely that you will want to use some kind of switch to go from series to parallel. Try to find a low loss
switch, such as a ceramic rotary switch, or use thumb nuts, and brass links mounted on low loss materials.
The circuit is shown below. It is important that the coil and switch be wired exactly as shown. If your radio
doesn't work, check the wiring first. I included the physical wiring pictoral below. This is from my #64 contra
radio. The picture of the switch is the top view, while the pictoral is how it is wired from the bottom.
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If you want to test the actual tuning ranges, you will need an accurate signal generator, a capacitance meter
and a scope or other rf level indicator. If you are building one coil, you can just put it in your crystal set and
check out the tuning range by listening for the stations.
It is best now to go over some of the basic design criteria, map out what we have and discover a few truths
and speculate on some assumptions. So here we go:
The contra coil has a 4:1 inductance ratio between series and parallel. 240:60 h for example.
The low end of the tuning range should be 530 khz. Better to design to 520 khz. The larger the value of
your variable capacitor, the lower this is likely to be.
The high end of the series coil connection should reach above 1000 khz. This may not be possible. Just so
the next condition is met, all is ok.
The low end of the parallel tuning should overlap the series high end by 30-50 khz.
The tuning ranges should span the dial over a total of 240-300 degrees.
A variable capacitor as low as 15-280 pF can be used but a higher value is recommended.
The variable capacitor shouldn't be over 500 pF.
Figure on about 25 pF capacitance added by the radio detector circuit and coil distributed capacitance.
An air trimmer capacitor of 75 pF is recommended. This helps with dial spread.
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If you build the coil too large, you will lose dial spread but you will tune the whole band.
If you make the coil too small, you may not be able to get that 30-50 khz mid band overlap. (This assumes
that you would have to increase the trimmer a lot more.)
The higher that the total maximum to the total minimum capacitance ratio is, the wider the tuning range
will be. This means that the dial spread would decrease. Look at the pictures below in the Other
Adjustments section.
Being that the main tuning capacitor range and the fixed added values (diode circuit and coil distributed
capacitance) is pre-determined, it comes down to juggling the coil value and the trimmer capacitor value to
get the best spread with full tuning range.
HERE
IS AN EXAMPLE:
To start, you have to measure and add the capacitances for when the tuning cap is at minimum and
maximum. Add 25 pF for the extra radio capacitances. Also include a starting value of 10 pF for the trimmer
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setting. The values are reached by rocking the values back and forth until a suitable value for the coil is
found.
Let us assume a 15-350 variable capacitor plus 35 pF for the extra capacitances described above. You can see
them in the schematic shown above too. This means that the circuit capacitance ranges from 50 to 385 pF.
These are starting values, and the minimum and maximum values are likely to be more like 80 to 415 pF as the
trials go on. The starting value for the inductor is 240 and 60h.
Starting with the low end, plug in a value of 240 H and 385 pF into Professor Coyle. That is a pretty close 524
khz. Lucky, hH? Ok, now use the 240h coil and plug in the minimum total capacitance. That comes to 1453
khz. That is too wide of a frequency spread. Instead of going further, we will change the maximum and
minimum capacitor value and start over.
Now plug in a higher value of maximum capacitance and adjust the coil value to a 520-530 khz range. Let's try
415 pF. That drops it down to 504 khz with a 240h coil. Let's reduce the value of the coil. 225h brings the
frequency in at 521 khz. Now let's try the minimum value of 80 pF with a 225h coil. That sets it at 1186 khz.
Ok, it is time to try the high range. Since the low range is 225h, the high coil will be about 56 H. The low
end with 415 pF now tunes 1044 khz. We have more than enough overlap, but the parallel coil low end tuning
range is a tad high.
So let's go back and turn up the trimmer 20 more pF. This will give us a capacitance range of 100 pF to 435 pF.
225h with that capacitance tunes 1061 to 509 khz. The 56h coil and 435 pF tunes to 1020 khz. That is a 41
khz overlap. This looks like a good value to go, but let's make one more tweak.
How about raising the inductance to 232h. The tuning range is pretty good but the low to high band split is
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a little higher than I like. The capacitance at 100 to 435 pF is good. Remember that the trimmer will take care
of the inaccuracies.
So 230 H and 435 pF tune to 501 kHz and at 100 pF tunes to 1045 khz. The parallel coil is now 58h. That
tunes down to 1002 kHz. That is a 43 kHz overlap. The trimmer will let you adjust to 1041 to 998 or 5 channel
overlap.
Now a couple of things: First, you won't get the coil that close, but if it is plus or minus 5h, that is fine. The
trimmer will iron out the glitches.
Notice that we didn't talk about the high end of the band in the parallel coil configuration. This isn't
important as it will always fall above 1700 kHz.
You will have good dial spread with these values. The actual dial spread will depend on the shape of the
capacitor plates (straight line capacitance, or straight line frequency). You will have better dial spread than
with regular wound coil.
If you are unsure, wind the coil on the large side. It can be taken apart and adjusted if you are real far off. It
is better to have less dial spread than not being able to tune the band.
This works with a cylinder wound coil or spider coil.
So to recap, we found a 232/58h coil would be good with a 15-350 pF capacitor with a 60 pF trimmer (with
the fixed 25 pF for the radio and coil capacitance).
Recently Jeff Welty whipped up this page for calculating spider contra coil. It is very complete, from entering
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DIAL SPREAD
There is a special feature that comes with the contra coils. That is, the tuning range on each band is
somewhat wide. This means that a capacitor with a big capacitance ratio isn't really needed. But what
happens is that the dial spread is not as good as it could be. Take a look at the two pictures. They are the
same radio, kind of a before and after shot.
The top picture shows the tuning covers a much narrower part of the dial scale as the bottom picture. You
have to look close at the numbers as the ranges are a little different. The left side is the low band (530 - 1000)
and the right side is the high band (900 - 1700).
The difference is that I placed a small trimmer capacitor (about 75 pF maximum) across the main variable
capacitor. Now the capacitance ratio of my variable is about 6:1 (90-550pF). Before the ratio was about 23:1
on this capacitor (20-475pF).
I did try a more aggressive type of band spreading using both a trimmer capacitor along with a padder type.
But since I am stuck with a fixed 4:1 coil ratio, I had some trouble getting the dial spread to work correctly on
both ranges. However with the way I did the dial spread, I get about a total of 2 turns of the knob in each
range. A regular coil set, such as my #63 is just under 3 turns of the knob to cover the entire band. Another
contravantage.
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Your actual situation will be different, depending on the actual components you use. But after you build your
set with a contra coil, investigate using a trimmer to widen your dial spread.
My first contra set is finished. It is my set #64. It is a set with a dual contra coil, one for the antenna tuning
unit and the other in the detector. I am very pleased with this set. If I wasn't, it wouldn't have received the
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Q
I took more unloaded LC tank Q measurements, this time taking more care. Below are the numbers, and a
picture of my test setup. Q measurements have not been a high priority for me or this web site. I once sent
the same coil to several people and the results reported varied greatly. These people were in possession of
professional equipment.
My tests involve measuring the Q of an unloaded LC tank circuit. This type of measurement doesn't take into
account other factors that adjust the Q, such as distributed capacitance corrections. Even in my test setup, I
found the numbers could vary a lot, depending on how the coil was tested. One thing that was pointed out
to me is that a coil has a fixed and specific Q value. Finding that true value isn't always so easy.
So please remember that everyone's unloaded L/C Q measurement will likely measure differently. But since I
used the same techniques for each of these coils under test, my numbers can be used to compare one
against the other. Other than that, I am not making any Q accuracy claims here or anywhere else on my web
site.
1600 kHz
1000 kHz
1000 kHz
600 kHz
Parallel
Parallel
Series
Series
660/46 234/58 H
670
910
625
750
165/46 266/66 H
484
588
384
428
100/44 260/65 H
347
476
344
400
40/44 340/85 H
258
306
217
240
410
454
357
375
Cylinder Coil
165/16 260/65 H
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dial spread. These are not "aggressive" coil designs. That is, I am not cutting the parameters so close that
success is not assured if something is a little off. Variable capacitors down to 280 pF can be used but it is
recommended that you try a 330 pF or higher variable. The design can be tight for the lower values.
L is the total series inductance. (The parallel inductance is 1/4 that value)
OD is the outside diameter of the spider (flat) coil form in inches.
L1 is the number of turns on the inside coil.
L2 is the number of turns on the outside coil.
LITZ is the litz wire size, number of strands and gauge of each strand.
CL is the variable capacitor minimum value.
CH is the variable capacitor maximum value.
CT is the trimmer value, (approximately)
A 20 pF detector capacitance is assumed. The trimmer will fix this inaccuracy.
The hub diameter is always 2 inches (50 mm)
The form material is .125 inch (3mm) thick HDPE (High Density PolyEthylene).
L
OD
L1
L2
LITZ
CL
CH
CT
250
29
22
165/46
15
365
60
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250
29
22
165/46
15
365
60
204
27
20
330/46
15
420
80
187
26
18
660/46
15
475
85
218
28
19
660/46
15
400
75
240
30
20
660/46
15
350
75
290
32
21
660/46
15
280
40
I have noted after doing about a dozen of these contra coils is the inside to outside ratio is not constant! As
you add an extra turn to the inside winding, only about a quarter turn is added on the outside. I believe this
is due to the outside diameter is getting a lot bigger than the break point of the coil. When I started all this, I
used two equal lengths of litz. That gets you pretty close. Just add a little extra on the outside to trim.
There is something else I noticed. The inductance of one of the coils is approximately equal to 1/3 of the
total inductance when the windings are in series. If I find this to be true, then the inner winding could be
wound a little high and then trimmed before adding the second winding. But somehow I don't think that will
be necessary.
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The problem was how would I wind the coil without making a mess or wasting a lot of litz? The two coils have
to be fairly close in inductance. If the inner coil were to be too large, that would mean unwinding the coil
and trying again. If the inductance is too small, then I have to use more litz to wind a new coil. Since this coil
is much like a regular spider coil, I went with the amount of wire that I would have used if the coil was a
regular one, plus some extra for the wire leads.
Here is where I did the work, so you don't. I decided on 9 inch leads for the coil. The total amount of wire
needed is 46 feet of 165/46 litz. The coil form has a hub of 2 inches (51 mm). The outside diameter need is at
least 5 inches (12,7 cm). Start winding the form with the first coil. At 29 turns, after allowing for the wire
lead, cut the litz.
Skip one slot and start the next coil. Wind another 22 turns, but in the opposite direction. 22 turns will give
you a little more inductance than the first coil. If you don't have a LC meter, then make the last winding 21.5
turns. If you do have some way of measuring inductance, then you can adjust the outside winding to match
the inside winding inductance exactly.
Once you have wound both coils, space the wires using an object of your choice. Make it all neat and pretty
before doing the next step. Measure the two inductors. It is likely that the outside coil has a higher
inductance. Remove a little of the wire of the form, maybe a half turn or so. When the inductances are equal,
then trim the wire and tin the end.
As with the cylinder contra coil, making the right connections is important. The two connections in the
middle of the coil are the start(s) wires. The inside and outside wires are the finish(f) wires. I think it is best
to have the wire that comes off the start winding of L1 be the ground side of the variable capacitor. Please
refer to the diagram above for the connections.
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Having a low loss switch is important for maintaining the high Q of this circuit. A ceramic insulated rotary
switch is excellent. Phenolic insulators tend to be lossy. In my example, I built a switch using some brass links
and a piece of styrene. The switching is not as easy as a regular type of switch but it is good enough for my
prototype.
This is the close up view of the switch. The switch is shown in the parallel coil configuration. The link pivots
on the middle screws. To switch to the series coil configuration, move the top link 180 degrees and open the
bottom link.
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each (after I pulled some of the small sections out.) The bad thing about this capacitor, besides not being a
365 or higher is the minimum capacitance is a high 25 pF. In most cases this is a disaster. But this is a premium
quality silver plated plates, ceramic insulators and superior wiper arms. We have to use this puppy!
I don't think you will have to pull out small capacitors as this will be used as a single section stand alone
capacitor. I used only the middle section.
If you connect this capacitor to this special contra wound coil, you will be able to tune the whole BC band in
two band sections. The low end starts around 500 kHz and goes to 1200. The high end starts at 1000 and
easily goes to 1700 kHz.
To make this work, I altered the inductance values of the contra coil. This coil has a series inductance of 340
h and a parallel wired inductance of 85 h. The inside winding has 33 turns and the outside winding is 27
turns. The litz I used is 40/44. The hub diameter of the coil is 2 inches (5,1 cm) and the outside is 4 inches (10
cm). Wind your coils as described above and you will be all set. This arrangement will work for any capacitor
you have that is 250 pF or above. If you have a 350 or higher capacitor, use 29 turns on the inside winding and
23 on the outside.
If you are going to use that big capacitor with larger litz, you may want to wind the coil with the regular 240 260 inductance and put two capacitor sections in parallel. You widen the frequency range which makes the
tuning more touchy. No matter which way you go, add a vernier dial drive.
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