Ac Basics 51412
Ac Basics 51412
Ac Basics 51412
PERFORMANCE
AUTOMOTIVE
AIR CONDITIONING
THE Basics
18865 Goll St
- Mount engine far enough back to allow for condenser, fan, shroud and radiator.
- Use largest evaporator possible.
- Install evaporator in dash/cowl area first, and position other components around it.
Mounting compressor:
-
Do not distort compressor body when mounting. (May cause oil leak)
Minimum Grade 5 bolts & sturdy, supportive bracket.
Align pulleys well!
At least 1/3 belt wrap belt should contact/drive sides of pulley.
(Should not bottom out in groove)
TIPS:
- Seal and insulate cabin area (including cowl and above evaporator).
- Make sure cooling system and radiator is sufficient.
*Remember, without adequate airflow, a radiator is just a reservoir for hot water. In general,
coolant transfers heat to radiator tubes, tubes transfer heat to fins, and movement of air through
the fins removes heat from the radiator. You must allow air to pass efficiently through the radiator
and out!
*Allow for air to escape from under hood.
*On Walker Radiator or aftermarket: 15-18 lb. Cap.
each 1 lbs. of increased pressure raises boiling point 3 F,
*On original recore radiator: 4-7 lb. Cap (tanks not designed to hold pressure).
Remember: Anti-freeze increases boiling point of water (now called anti-freeze/coolant) - proper
mix (50% coolant to 50% water). Corrosion inhibitors protect against scaling and mineral build-up
that can reduce heat transfer. Also, proper maintenance (flushing & changing coolant) will extend
life of system. Use distilled water or pre-mix anti freeze.
- If using an engine driven fan use a shroud. An unshrouded fan only moves air through the
portion of the radiator equal to the surface of the fan. A shroud also dramatically improves the
efficiency of the fan and does not benefit from the housing effect the shroud provides. An
unshrouded fan moves about 50% the volume of a shrouded fan.
*Fan should be to inside shroud for best performance.
- Water pumps should be overdriven 30 35%. (Pulley ratio - crankshaft pulley should be 30%
larger than water pump pulley.)
- Always use a thermostat to control engine temperature.
Evaporator
# 10 Suction Hose
Low Side Charge Port
High Side Charge Port
Safety Switch
Receiver/Drier
#6 Liquid Line
Condenser
Compressor
# 8 Discharge
Hose
High Side
#6 Liquid A/C Hose
(Condenser to Evaporator)
#8 Discharge A/C Hose
(Compressor to Condenser)
Low Side
#10 Suction A/C Hose
(Evaporator to Compressor)
Functions of the AC
System Components
The Compressor is a
refrigerant gas circulating
pump which draws low
pressure, medium temp
vapor from evaporator and
raises the pressure and
temperature.
Compressor
Safety Switch
- Binary Switch
disengages the
compressor clutch with
excessive refrigerant
pressure or low threshold
pressure (loss of refrigerant)
- Trinary Switch combines
Binary functions with fan
engagement signal
COLDER
CLOCKWISE
ADJUSTABLE KNOB
(TYPICAL)
COUNTER CLOCKWISE
WARMER
CAPILLARY TUBE
TO EVAPORATOR
COIL
BOT
OF
TO M
CAS
E
DRAI
DRAI
A/C Thermostat
Switch Or
Compressor Relay
(Gen IV)
A/C Switch
Panel Switch
On
Black/Green
Blue
Blue
Relay Logic
Dark Blue
87
85
86
85
Circuit
Breaker
(40 Amp)
87
Purple
Ground
White
A/C
Compressor
Clutch
White
White
OR
Optional Adjustable
Fan In Radiator
Thermostat Switch
(Part # 24675-VUT)
Electric
Fan
86
White
Electric
Fan
Relay
Blue
White
Ground
Black
Blue
BAT
30
Black/Green
AUX
12 Volt
Battery or
Ignition Source
87a
30
12 Volt
Key On
Ignition Source
Condenser Types
Serpentine
Extruded core with raidused
return bends on one end and
brazed fins
ROW OF
REFRIGERANT
TUBES
134a REFRIGERANT
MOLECULE CH2FCF3
(TETRAFLOUROETHANE)
Vintage Air
Parallel Super Flow
Extruded straight tubes with brazed fins between tubes
and brazed tanks
Thermostat Adjustment
ROTARY TYPE
THERMOSTAT)
COLDER
CLOCKWISE
ADJUSTABLE
KNOB
WARMER
CAPILLARY
TUBE TO
EVAPORATOR
COIL
COUNTER CLOCKWISE
LEFT COLDER
CAPILLARY
TUBE
TO
EVAPORATOR
COIL
RIGHT WARMER
EVAPORATOR
INSERT THERMOSTAT
CAPILLARY TUBE
THRU THIS HOLE.
ENTIRE THICKNESS OF
EVAPORATOR COIL.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
The following guide will help the installer determine if a problem exists in the system
that would cause a malfunction. If you are experiencing problems in the physical
operation of the unit (blower speeds, door operation, etc.) We encourage you to
refer to the wiring diagram located in the instruction manual. Using a continuity
or light tester you can solve many of the simple problems by tracing a connections,
and testing them individually. However, if the unit is functioning correctly, but it is not
cooling, you can refer to the following guide that will outline the most common problems
encountered by installers.
I. TEST CONDITIONS USED TO DETERMINE SYSTEM OPERATION
A. PLACE TEMPERATURE PROBE (THERMOMETER) INTO CENTER OUTLET.
B. CONNECT THE GAUGES OR SERVICE EQUIPMENT TO THE HIGH/LOW
CHARGING PORTS.
C. PLACE BLOWER FAN SWITCH ON MEDIUM.
D. CLOSE ALL DOORS AND WINDOWS ON VEHICLE.
E. PLACE SHOP FAN OR HEAVY DUTY SQUIRREL-CAGE BLOWER DIRECTLY
IN FRONT OF THE CONDENSER.
F. RUN ENGINE IDLE UP TO 1500 RPM
(THESE TEST CONDITIONS WILL SIMULATE THE AFFECT OF DRIVING THE
VEHICLE AND GIVE THE TECHNICIAN THE THREE CRITICAL READINGS THAT
THEY WILL NEED TO DIAGNOSE ANY POTENTIAL PROBLEMS)
II. ACCEPTABLE OPERATING PRESSURE RANGES FOR VINTAGE AIR SYSTEMS
A. R134A TYPE
1. HIGH-SIDE PRESSURE (160 - 250 PSI) * Note - general rule of thumb is two
times the ambient (daytime) temperature, plus 15 - 20%.
2. LOW-SIDE PRESSURE (06- 12 PSI in a steady state)
3. CENTER DUCT TEMPERATURE (36 - 46 DEGREES F.)
B. R12 TYPE
1. HIGH-SIDE PRESSURE (140 - 230 PSI) * Note - general rule of thumb is two
times the ambient (daytime) temperature, plus 15%.
2. LOW-SIDE PRESSURE (12- 15 PSI in a steady state)
3. CENTER DUCT TEMPERATURE (36 - 46 DEGREES F.)
b. If air is introduced into the system during the charging process, it will introduce
moisture that will cause ice to form in the refrigerant flow and will cause the compressor
to rattle or growl under acceleration. System must be evacuated and re-charged to the
exact weight specifications making sure to bleed any air from lines when introducing
the refrigerant
B. SYSTEM NOT COOLING
1. There are numerous factors that can cause the cooling to be less than optimal.
a. Improper charge in system - Improper charging is the number one cause of
system failure. The pressure readings should be taken before any determination can be
made. High or low readings in direct proportion to the normal pressures (see sect. II)
will tell you if the charge is too high or low. Excessive system pressure can also cause
vibrations and whistling noise from the expansion valve and refrigerant lines.
B. Heater control valve installation - Installing the heater control valve in the
incorrect hose will allow water to collect in the unit. The heater control is a directional
valve; make sure the water flow is with the direction of the arrow. As the engine heats
up the water transfers the heat to the coil, thus overpowering the a/c coil. A leaking or
faulty valve will have a more pronounced affect on the units cooling ability. Installing
the valve improperly 9such as having the flow reversed) will allow water to flow through,
thus inhibiting cooling. Check for heat transfer by disconnecting hosed from the system
completely. By running down the road with the hosed looped back through the motor,
you eliminate the possibility of heat transfer to the unit. Move or replace the valve if
necessary.
C. Evaporator freezing - Freezing can occur both externally and internally on an
evaporator core. External freeze-up occurs when the coil cannot effectively displace the
condensation on the outsides of the fins and the water forms to ice (the evaporator core
resembles a block of solid ice) it restricts the flow of air that can pass through it, which
gives the illusion of the air not functioning. The common cause of external freezing is
the setting of the thermostat and the presence of high humidity in the passenger
compartment. All the door and window seals should be checked in the event of constant
freeze-up. A thermostat is provided with all units to control the cycling of the compressor.
The rotary-type thermostat should be turned all of the way clockwise and then
turned back counter clockwise an eight of a turn. The lever type thermostat should
be back away from the cold position slightly.
Internal freeze-up occurs when there is too much moisture inside the system. The
symptoms of internal freeze-up often surface after extended highway driving. The volume
of air stays constant, but the temperature of the air gradually rises. When this freezing
occurs the low side pressure will drop, eventually going into a vacuum. Ar this point, the
system should be checked by a professional who will evacuate the system and charge the
drier.
d. Inadequate airflow to condenser - The condenser works best in front of the
radiator with a large supply of fresh air. Abnormally high pressure will result from improper
airflow. Check the airflow requirements by placing a large capacity fan in front of the
condenser, and running cool water over the surface. If the pressure drops significantly,
this will indicate the need for better airflow.