SINGLE JERSEY OR PLAIN FABRIC

A fabric in which the knitted loops are the same sort and meshed in the same manner
Single jersey is the simplest to knit and it can be produced either on circular or flat machines by means of
one set of needles which draw their loops to only one side of the fabric.
The fabric has one appearance on the face side and a different one on the reverse. The side on which the
straight parts of the stitches appear in V formation is called the face side (Technical Face) and the reverse
side (Technical Back) has twin rows of opposed semi circles.
Plain is produced by single set of needles, drawing the loops away from the technical back and towards
the technical face side of the fabric.
Its technical face is smooth, with the side limbs of the needle loops having the appearance of columns of
Vs in the Wales.
On the technical back, the heads of the needle loops and the bases of the sinker loops form columns of
interlocking semi-circles.
Derivatives of plain knit
Plain single jersey is the simplest weft knitted structure that it is possible to
produce on one set of needle.
Plain is the base structure of ladies hosiery, fully fashioned knitwear.
The production rate is very high because of stitch simplicity and its cost is low
because of machine simplicity.
STRUCTURE

Technical Face

Technical Back

Graphical Representation

Technical Face
Cam arrangement

The needle cam race consists of

Technical Back

1 Clearing Cam
2 Stitch Cam
3 Up-throw Cam
Which are vertically adjustable together for alteration of stitch length
4 Guard Cam
5 Return Cam
6 Guard Cam
The three sections of the sinker cam race are
7 Race Cam
8 Sinker Withdrawing Cam
9 Sinker-Return Cam, which is adjustable in accordance with the stitch length.
Needle actions

The knitting action can be explained as follows:

1. Rest position- The needle is in the rest position with the old loop in the hook of the needle.
2. Tuck Position the needle is raised and old loop is on the latch of the needle.
3. Clearing position The needle is raised higher to clear the loop from the latch. The needle reached
at the top of the cam and old loop is on the stem of the needle.
4. Yarn Feeding Position The needle is lowered with old loop new yarn is being fed to the open hook
of the needle.
5. Latch Closing position The needle is lowered further and the old loop closes the latch trapping the
new yarn inside the hook.
6. Knock over position ( loop forming) the needle is lowered still further and old loop slides over the
trapped new yarn inside the hook, forming a new loop by completing the knitting cycle. Knitting
cycle is completed with the new loop in the hook of the needle.
THE KNITTING ACTION
(a) Tucking in the hook or rest position. The sinker is forward, holding down the
old loop whilst the needle rises from the rest position.
(b) Clearing. The needle has been raised to its highest position clearing the old
Loop from its latch.

(c) Yarn feeding. The sinker is partially withdrawn allowing the feeder to present its yarn to the descending
needle hook and also freeing the old loop so that it can slide up the needle stem and under the open latch
spoon.
(d) Knock-over. The sinker is fully withdrawn whilst the needle descends to knock-over its old loop on the
sinker belly.
(e) Holding-down. The sinker moves forward to hold down the new loop in its throat whilst the needle rises
under the influence of the upthrow cam to the rest position where the head of the open hook just protrudes
above the sinker belly.

Characteristics of Single Jersey Fabric

The loops have a V-shaped loop appearance on technical face side and show semi-circular loops on
the technical back side.
Because of the side limbs of the loop on the face side, it feels smoother on face side than on the back
side. It is thus not reversible, from the feel and appearance point of view.
The interlocking semi-circles at the technical back can be used to produce interesting effects if
alternate courses are knitted in different coloured yarns.
Knitted loops in plain-knit fabrics tend to distort easily under tension which help to give a form
fitting and comfort due to property of elastic recovery.
It has potential recovery of about 40 per cent in width after stretching.
Its width shortens if the length is extended by tensions while the length shortens if width is stretched.
Normally width way extensibility is approximately twice the length-way extensibility.
It is knitted on a single cylinder machine with a single set of latch needles.
The structures can be unroved from the course knitted last by pulling the needle loops through from
technical back or from the course knitted first by pulling the sinker loops through from the technical
face side.
If the unrelaxed plain knit fabric is kept flat on the surface, it curls upwards at the top and bottom and
backwards at the sides.
Its production rate is very high because of stitch simplicity and its cost is low because of machine
simplicity (Capital cost also low) and rate of production is high
The stitch length can be varied with cam setting giving more courses per unit length with short stitch
length and vice-versa.
The properties such as rigidity, air permeability, weight per unit area, bursting strength changes with
the stitch length.
The fabric may appear thick or flimsy is the stitch length is reduced or increased.
Properties of Single Jersey
Simplest knit structure.
Face side smooth and sheen.
Back side rough and dull.
Lighter fabric.
Economical.
Easily ravels at both the ends.
Highly extensible in length and width.

 The fabric curls towards the face at the top and bottom and towards the back at the sides.
Laddering is very common in these fabrics.
Knitted loops in plain knit fabrics tend to distort easily under tension which helps to give a form
fitting and comfort due to property of elastic.
Ornamentation:
Reasons
- Increase the saleability
- Its start from yarn to fabric
Methods
1. Horizontal stripes different colour , feeders
2. Twist S & Z Twist
3. Fancy yarn
4. Piece yarn
5. Printing
6. Plated jersey fabric 2 yarn from single feeder
DERIVATIVES
In earlier single cam track and one type of needle are used in single jersey fabric
Today derive from various structure in single jersey fabric
Modification is carried out on using of sinker, needle and cam
Needle:
Three types of needles normally used:
1. Low butt needle
2. High butt needle
3. Combination of low & high butt needles
Cam
3 types of cams normally used
Swing
Split cam
Multi track cam
Modification of single jersey structure
The modification of single jersey structure carried out by using knit, tuck and miss stitches for following
different combination
1. Knit and tuck
2. Knit and float
3. Knit, tuck and float.
Mechanism
The following mechanism also used for to produce the different structures in single jersey fabric by using
basic stitches like knit, tuck and miss stitches
1. Pattern wheel
2. Multi- step drum
3. Perforated rolls
4. Continuous tapes or bands
Structure :
The following derivatives structures are produced
1. La-coste
2. Cross tuck
3. Satin
4. Knitted twill

5. Knops fabric (honey comb)

6. Popcorn
7. Jersey blister
8. Frency terry
9. Thick fleece
10. Ribbed effect
11. Plaiting
12. Seek sucker effect
13. Plush (loop file)
14. Pique
15. Birds eye
La- coste:
Design is formed by
First two course Knitting on odd needles (1,3,5,7)
Tucking on even neddle (2,4,6,7)
Next two course conditions is reversed
It is two system
Characterstics
- Stitches are not horizontal alignent
- Both long and short stitches are present in face side
- Repeat size is two course
- For 24 feed 12 course per revolution
- 50 % of structure is CELLULAR
Properties:
Dimensionally stable
Excellent comfort and drape
End uses:
Sports wears
Cross tuck
Simplest version of lactose
Knitting and tucking take place in first course
Tucking and knitting take place in second course
Loop of same course are not horizontals

SATIN ( Cross - Miss)

Its combination of knit and float stitch
Knitting and floating takes place at every alternative course on every
needle
Course 1 Knit and Float Stitch Alternatively
Course 2. Float and Knit Stitch Alternatively
PROPERTIES
Greater stability than CT
Structure is narrower
Production rate is reduced in to half the feeder

KNITTED TWILL
Diagonal lines of tuck stitches produced
Used for four cam track
Repeat size is four
Combinations of tuck and knit stitch
One tuck and 3 knit
KNOP FABRICS or HONEY COMB
Distribution of multiple tucks diagonally or staggered from through fabric
Properties:
More tuck stitches causes fabric to pucker
Give honey comb effects
Repeat size is 12 course & 4 wales

POPCORN
The fabric is not balanced and a puckered effect is created.
The odd needle produced 4 courses and even needle produced 6 courses
Multiple tuck produced elongated and inclined stitches, which cause curved effect in the fabric

Jersey blister
More of miss stitches
The repeat is five course and 4 wales
Hence fabric is not balanced
Small stitches results in a blister or pucker effect

French terry
This structure is produced by laying in the yarn at feeder 2 and 4 which undergo brushing process to
raise the surface fibres
Laying in frequency is less not crate thick fleece

Available as 3 or 4thread french terry in the market

Soft twisted coarse yarns are used
It is manufactured on flat knitting machine
Consists of tuck and miss structure on the back side
High GSM fabric
100% Cotton
Properties
Low stretchability and high elastic recovery
Soft, resilient and thick fabric
Warmth retention
Non reversible fabric different or same yarns used for face and back
High drapability and good fall
Highly absorbent
Dimensional stability is high
Uses
Used in casual jackets, hats, sweaters, jogging bottoms/sweatpants, gym clothes, Hood.
Thick fleece
Increasing the laying in frequency considerably - the fleece effect will increase
Heavier, thicker and expensive
Production rate slower than French terry

Ribbed effect
The structure is formed by incorporating more than one tuck stitches laterally
The fabric is produced by altering the needle set out to two long neddles following two short needles.
Ribbed effect 3x3, 4x4, 4x2, etc.,

Plaiting
Plaiting is accomplished by incorporating two different yarns simultaneously in to the knitted fabrics.
Different yarn colour, fibre types, fineness, filament/spun, soft/hard)
One yarn is face side
Another yarn is back side

PIQUE OR SINGLE PIQUE OR FRED PERRY (AIRTEX)

Combination of tuck and knit stitch

DOUBLE PIQUE OR THICK PIQUE (DOUBLE AIRTEX)

Properties.
Stretchability is low and elastic recovery is more than weft knit single jersey
Soft and resilient
Non Reversible type
High drapability and good fall
Good Dimensional stability
High shrinkage in natural fiber
Uses
Used for leisure wear manufacturing basically Mens, Womens and Kids polo T-shirts
Used for manufacturing sports wear
BIRDS EYE
Combination of knit and miss stitch
Nature of Design : 2 track design with 4 course repeat

MOCK RIB

WEFT LOCKNIT

CELLULAR BLISTER

Velour or plush fabrics

Fabric is manufactured by weft knitting technique
Soft twisted are used
Cut or uncut piles are present on the surface of the fabric
Velour is a knitted fabric, allowing it to stretch.
It combines the stretchy properties of knits such as spandex with the rich appearance and feel of velvet
Properties
High stretchability and elastic recovery
Soft and resilient fabric

Warmth retention
Non reversible fabric
Good drapability and fall
Dimensional stability is high

Accordion fabric
Accordion fabric is single jersey with the long floats held in place on the technical back by tuck stitches.
It was originally developed using knit and miss pattern wheel selection. Needles required tucking (if not
selected to knit) were provided with an extra butt, in line with a tuck cam placed immediately after the
pattern wheel selection.
In straight accordion, every odd needle was of this type, so every odd needle tucked when not selected to
knit.
Alternative accordion provides a better distribution of tuck stitches; odd needles had a tuck butt position in
line with cams placed at odd feeders, and even needles had another butt position for cams at even feeders.
With both these types of accordion, tuck stitches occur close together, causing distortion of face loops and
allowing unselected colours to grin through between adjacent wales onto the face.
The third type of accordion selective accordion is most widely used, but it requires a three-step pattern
wheel or other selection device that can select the tuck loops so that they are carefully distributed to create
the minimum of stitch distortion on the face of the design.

Straight accordion

Alternate accordion

Selected accordion