25

OCT2012

BY THATSHOULDHOLD
POSTED IN PROJECTS, TIMBER
WITH 5 COMMENTS
PERMALINK

October 25, 2012 thatshouldhold

BUILD YOUR OWN DRAFTING TABLE

BY THATSHOULDHOLD

ONOCTOBER25,2012

WITH 5 COMMENTS

Working as a full time structural engineer believe it or not can really take a toll on your body
sooner or later. Or any profession for that matter that involves sitting at a desk and either
staring at a computer screen or being hunched over looking at blueprints all day. So, to take
the ease off the body a little I have constructed a cost effective solution to get me up out of
the chair and to straighten that neck up a bit. That being said here is the step by step
instructions to Build your own Drafting Table for use in the office or at home.

New!! Drafting Table Plans and 3D Model available for Purchase Here!
More Details at the bottom of this article.

Build your own Drafting Table Schematic Phase

First and foremost before you start to build your own drafting table no project should go
without a set of plans and details. So, basically here is my drafted plans, a scope if you may,
of the drafting table to be constructed.

As you see it will composed of two surfaces one that is the actual drafting surface and the
other that is the base to connect the legs and wall too. There will be a ledger that will be
fastened to the wall and hinges that are attached to the bottom surface. It will consist of two
legs that fold in and out so the table is able to rotate against the wall when not in use.
Here is a bill of materials of the final project cost broken down. Note that any of these items
can be substituted to constructors wishes.
# of Items

Material

Store

Price

3/4 Birch Plywood

Home Depot

$46.97

26 Douglas Fir Larch #2

Home Depot

$3.58

24 Douglas Fir Larch #2

Home Depot

$5.12

3 1/2 Everbilt Hinges

Home Depot

$8.34

1 Everbilt Hinges

Home Depot

$7.88

5 ft

1/4 Round

Home Depot

$2.50

Drafting Table Hinges

Rockler

$36.29

Folding Leg Bracket

Rockler

$15.39

Leather Trunk Handle

Rockler

$10.99

Unpinned Loops

Rockler

$8.29

Sand Paper 150 Grit

Rockler

$1.39

Sand Paper 400 Grit

Rockler

$1.39

Total Cost:

$148.13

Here is a list of tools that were used or some that should have been used to make my life
easier.

Drill and Tape Measure

THAT SHOULD HOLD!

ABOUT

JTWRIGHT ENGINEERING

Hinges

ARCHIVES

RESOURCES

PE EXAM

RESIDENTIAL CONSTRUCTION

CONTACT

Adjustable Drafting Table Hardware

Hammer and Chisel

Jigsaw

Build your own Drafting Table Design and Preparation Phase

So now that we have covered all the schematic design, budget and materials needed lets get
into the actual design/preparation phase of the drafting table. Basically, first off we need to
cut the 48 sheet of plywood to the dimensions that we need. The drafting table surface is to
be 28x40. The reason that I chose this size was for enough room to place a typical set of
plans. A set of construction plans can run from as small as 8.511 to as big as 3442. But the
most common sizes are 2234 and 2436 in the industry for architectural as well as structural
engineering. So, I wanted to just be able to accommodate a maximum size of 2436 because I
usually wont use anything bigger than that. However, it is your choice your the designer.

Drafting Table Plywood Surface

Next you will need to cut the bottom piece of plywood. This piece was intended to be the
base of the rotating mechanism. It will be attached to the ledger with hinges and will have a
handle under to raise and lower as needed. The legs will also be attached to this piece. The
size that I chose was a little bigger than the table top piece. This gave a area on both sides of
the table for pencils and stuff. So, I cut the bottom piece at 30x48.
Then we will need to cut the intermediate 2 pieces for the drafting table surface to land
upon. The reason the pieces need to have a height of 2 is for the hinges to be able to rest
inside when they fold down. Plus it adds a nice storage area for either drafting equipment or
construction plans. So, cut (4) pieces, two for the sides and two for the front and back.

2-inch Strip for Drafting Table

Next we cut the 24s for the legs. I chose a height of 32 for my table legs. It was a little taller
than a normal table but I personally would like to be able to stand up and review plans as
needed. Also the 26 ledger will need to be cut to the same length as the bottom piece of
plywood at 48. Then all you have to do is a little bit of sanding and apply the stain as needed.

Build your own Drafting Table Construction Phase

Now to start to build your own drafting table or the construction of the drafting table. First we
need to attach the 2 strips to the drafting table bottom piece of plywood. I attached it with
typical screws spaced at 6 on center (o.c.). I generally use screws in lieu of nails mostly
because I like to have the flexibility of being able to remove and change the design around if
needed. It is a lot easier pulling out a couple of screws than a couple of nails. And plus you
can reuse them.

2-inch Strip to Drafting Table

Next, it is time to install the adjustable hinges to the drafting table surface and bottom piece.
Rockler provides a nice installation guide for this that is shown below. It is 12 3/4 from the
end of the hinge to the screws and 2-3 minimum from the sides. These dimensions should
be measured from the 2 inch strips not the end of the drafting table bottom surface. So, install
the actual hinge to the bottom base piece and the hinge catcher to the underside of the
drafting table surface. Also do the same for the connection of the top drafting table surface
to the hinge by installing the separately provide top hinge mount to the dimensions specified.
This piece actually allows full rotation (front to back) while the hinge opens and closes and
provides a bit of lateral stability (side to side).

Adjustable Drafting Table Hardware

Adjustable Hinges to Drafting Table

Before we put the two surfaces together we will need to install the hinges on the 2 front
piece and attach them to the drafting table surface. I installed four 2 hinges spaced evenly
across the front of the table instead of a solid piano hinge. I did this because I think is easier
to install, cheaper and they didnt have dimension I needed and I didnt feel like trying to cut
it. By installing these hinges it will take some unnecessary pressure off the architectural
hinges and keeps the rotation point located directly at the front of the table so it wont lift up
from the front. I suggest that you take a chisel or a jig saw and cut out a section, equal to the
depth of the hinges, off the 2 strips (perpendicular to grain) so that the table can lay flat
when closed. Pre-drilling the screw holes is not a bad idea either because the actual
attachment to both surfaces is a bit tricking with one person.

Now it is time to attach the the table top to the hinges and the Rockler architectural hinges. It
helps to have someone else hold the table when you attach it because of the angles but if
your like me and have no friends then I suggest laying the entire table on the floor and
putting some blocking under the table top (by the 2 strips) to hold it up vertical. This is where
the pre-drilled holes come in handy. Alright, now test it out. Make sure there is a smooth
transition all the way and down. Adjust the architectural hinges if needed. The below pictures
shows (2) hinges installed and the architectural hinges. After installing (2) of the hinges I
decided to test it out and make sure everything was opening and closing to my liking. And it
didnt but with a few clicks here and there it was up and opening smoothly. Cant beat trial
and error.

Drafting Table Hinges Installed

About now the drafting table is around 80% completed. The only items left are the folding
legs, the ledger attachment to the wall and table, the paper stopper strip of quarter round
and the stain (if you havent applied it already). Then it is off to putting some miles on your
new drafting table!
Actually, now would be a good time to apply the stain of your choice. I went with a
conventional lighter oak stain with a polyurethane finish. For my drafting table I applied (3)
coats of stain sanding each time before applying the next coat thus ensuring a nice smooth
finish.
Ok, now lets focus on installing the folding legs. The trick here is to install the first leg (lets
say the left side) located at the corner of the 2 vertical strips near the front of the table. Then
install the other leg about 4 or more inward on the opposite side. That ensures there is no
conflict of the legs hitting one another when they are folded in. The Rockler leg brackets are
perfect for this. They are equipped with a locking hinge mechanism that keeps the legs
upright and locks them when folded. They are one of the best that I have seen in this
category of folding table hinges. And only $15 for the two, these are perfect. The final
measurements that I have for the first leg is 3 from the front and 5 from the left side of the
bottom piece of the drafting table. Note, these measurements are from the edge of the
drafting table to center line of the leg post. The other leg should be approximately 7 from
the front and 5 from the right side.

Folding Drafting Table Legs

Now for the ledger. The easiest way is attaching the 4 hinges first then attaching the ledger
to the wall. For the wall attachment I used two screws per stud. Lets get right into the
engineering of this connection. This detailing is applicable to almost any ledger attachment
even for a house (rafter or joist ledger) or a deck addition attachment to a house. The
controlling code in this case is the National Design Specifications for wood construction 2005
edition. The NDS devotes 45% of its material directly toward fasteners and connections.
Connections are generally classified according to the direction of loading. Shear connections
have the load applied perpendicular to the length of the fastener. The second major type of
loading in a wood connection has the applied load parallel to the length of the fastener, and
the fastener is loaded in tension. The direction of the grain of wood also has different
structural properties and load values.
So, in our case we are loaded in shear with the grain perpendicular. The NDS has 6 yield
modes of loading that you are required to calculate. Then you need to apply factors for
temperature, moisture in woodetc. Without getting too much into the tedious method of
calculating the load lets use the simple way. In the NDS there are charts for different fastener
types to wood connections. So you can easily look up the allowable load for almost any type
of wood connection in the needed direction which saves a lot of time. In our case we can turn
to table 11L and go to Douglas Fir-Larch (or whatever wood you used) on the top column and
1-1/2 (2x that has been planed 1/2) side member on the side category. And we are using #10
wood screws which will give you 117# per screw. So, our total load resistance with (4) screws
is 117# *(4) = 468#. That is all there is too it. For more information on the actual connection
design see the following step-by-step example post located here.

Ledger to Wall Connection

Then attach the 4 hinges to the drafting table bottom piece and thats it! The folding drafting
table is completed! And since you know what force it can withstand you can tell everyone
that you built a Drafting Table That should hold! Or something like that.

Final Folded Drafting Table

Drafting Table Side View

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New!! Build your own Drafting Table Plans

CAD Plans and 3D Google Sketchup Modelare now here for purchase!!
Included in this package is:
Drafting Table Instructions (condensed version)
Drafting Table Cut Sheet.pdf
Drafting Table Plans.pdf
Drafting Table 3D Sketch-up Model

For purchase click Here!

Note from the Admin:

The Drafting Table Plans and 3D model are finally here! I really appreciate everyones
positive feedback and requests about this drafting table design. By purchasing these you not
only are getting a great value but are contributing to the future content on this site. Without
you guys it really wouldnt be worth it. My main purpose is to give back and help others with
the skill set that I have.
If there is any tutorials or projects that you would like to see dont hesitate to ask. Im a
practicing structural engineer that has the resources to answer almost anything you have. So,
the more questions and requests the better. In almost anything you do an engineering
principle can be applied. The traffic signal that you sat there waiting to turn green on your
way to work was all timed and engineered to be as efficient as possible (although it may not
seem that way!). Not to mentioned the pole holding it up.
All the appreciation is on my part.
Cheers!
ThatShouldHold.com

Build your own Drafting Table Useful Links

Here are some other drafting table designs that I though where also very interesting and well
thought of. Enjoy!
Curbly
Instructables
Helium
Pintrest

Google

LinkedIn

Email

Print

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 TAGGED: BUILD YOUR OWN DRAFTING TABLE, DRAFTING TABLE, DRAFTING TABLE DESIGN, DRAFTING TABLE
PLANS

COMMENTS (5)

The Pope
OCTOBER 25, 2012

Great tutorial sir! I really enjoyed the little bit of structural engineering
you showed. Looking forward to the hand calcs so I can kind of do my
own design.
REPLY

replier
APRIL 25, 2013

How do you prevent the plywood from bowing and warping? I got the
same plywood, but it contorts itself like mad. The thing is so soft and
light, its like Drywall instead of hardwood.
REPLY

thatshouldhold
APRIL 26, 2013

Plywood typically already has low moisture content, as the heat used
in drying and gluing the layers together assures that the plywood is
not wet. However, it can warp which results in the usual twisting
effect that you have experienced. Some reasons could be that the
moisture content was higher than normal and changed dramatically
when it was glued and heated causing it to warp. This can happen in
high moisture climates during the winter time. Another reason could
be that it was left outside after it had been glued and was exposed to
different temperature and weather conditions, then dried causing
some warping. There are ways to correct warping but I wouldnt
recommend any of them. Basically, what you do is add consistent
warm water to the the plywood and weigh it down to try and correct
the skew or twist. Whether this works or not it is probably more work
than needed. If you bought your lumber at Lowes or Home Depot
and havent cut it, I would just take it back and exchange it for new
un-warped piece of ply. As for the plywood being soft and light like
drywall thats odd. This is 3/4 thick plywood it should be nice and
rigid. Maybe go with and oak finish next time and see if there is more
stiffness in that, may cost a little more. But make sure before you
purchase to inspect for notches, marks, stiffness and warping. It is

expensive so make sure this is the piece you want. A popular

woodworking named Chris Schwarz, aka the workbench design
master, never buys 24 studs because of the low grade wood it
comes from. Instead he buys a 210 or 212 and rips it to the
thickness of a 24 for quality. Its all preference. Hope that helps.
REPLY

Pingback: Build a Speed Bag Platform - That Should Hold!

minkiejung
AUGUST 10, 2014

ive been thinking building my own drafting table, but been having a hard
time to figure out what i need and what to do. this is perfect! cant thank
you enough. really appreciate this.
REPLY

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