Guitar and Bass Classics - The Guitar DIY Bible 2015-P2P

Classics
THE GUITAR DIY BIBLE 2015
The Guitar
DIY2015
Bible
132
PA G E S O F I Y
L D
PR AC T I C A L S
TUTORIA
& TIPS
B U I L D | F I X | I M P R OV E
The Guitar DIY

Bible 2015
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25 killer Strat & Les Paul mods

Acoustic upgrades & wiring advice
Pickup winding and much more...
18
www.guitar-bass.net
25
PROJECTS
INSIDE
Make a guitar for under 200
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Can you fix it?

Yes you can
Ill be the first to admit that my early
experiments in guitar maintenance were less
than successful. For a start, my 11-year-old self
thought that the bridge saddles on my Squier
Strat looked far better when adjusted so that
they sat in a perfectly straight line goodbye
intonation! Then there was the matter of the
upper-fret choking that I thought Id be able to
solve with a claw hammer the less said about
that the better. Happily, Im not quite as inept
these days, thanks in no small part to the wealth of knowledge that fellow
guitar journalists have been willing to share over the years, both anecdotally
and in the pages of G&B.
If youre not afraid to wield a soldering iron or other basic tools, then
theres plenty of potential, not just to simply maintain your instrument but
to improve it, too. Across the following pages, we present an extensive guide
to doing-it-yourself thatll help keep your prized instruments and amps
ship-shape, and we even show you how to build new toys from scratch. As
always, proceed with caution and stay safe, but most importantly have fun!
If you attempt any of these projects wed love to see the results so please do
send us pictures of your creations either via email [email protected] or facebook.com/TheGuitarMagazine you might even see
your work featured in the magazine! Good luck,
and dont forget to pick up a copy of the mag
every month for plenty more DIY Workshops
where these came from
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guitar-bass.net GUITAR DIY BIBLE 2015 3
CONTENTS
In this issue...
6 Build Your
Own Guitar
Follow in the footsteps
of Brian May and create
your own electric for
just 200
FEATURES
Build Your Own Guitar.............................................. 6
With a budget of just 200 we show you how
to build your own Red Special
Damage Control ........................................................... 16

Sometimes an expensive fix just doesnt add up.
We help assess if your guitar is worth mending
Learn electronics ........................................................ 18

Before you visit a professional read our guide
to troubleshooting electric guitar wiring
Tools Of The Trade..................................................... 22

A comprehensive outline of the basic tools
required to work on electric guitars and basses
Solder Your Soul .......................................................... 24
28 Les
Pauls Mods
25 GREAT WAYS TO MAKE YOUR

DREAM GUITAR EVEN BETTER
4 GUITAR DIY BIBLE 2015 guitar-bass.net
Pledge allegiance to the four rules of soldering
25 Ways To Upgrade Your Les Paul ............... 28

From zero-cost mods to vintage makeovers,
the best ways to improve your Lester
The best Strat modifications ............................ 36

How to make your Fender Strat play and
sound better than ever before
CONTENTS
34 Strat Upgrades FEATURES

WE SHOW YOU HOW YOUR BELOVED
STRATOCASTER CAN SOUND
EVEN BETTER STILL!
Keep Your Fretboard Clean ............................... 44

Are you suffering from gunk? We lift the lid on the world
of fingerboard hygiene
Refinishing ..................................................................... 46
An Ibanez RG gets a brand new highly figured
maple top. We show you how its done
Build A Lap Steel .........................................................50

The perfect project for a budding
luthier who loves a bit of twang
Actions Stations ..........................................................54

Adjusting a guitars action is a matter of
balancing several interacting factors
Necks In Line .................................................................. 58

We focus on the finer details of neck design
Strat Tremolo Setup Tips ..................................... 61

Setting your Stratocaster vibrato so it can take a
hammering is a tricky business
Project Superstrat.....................................................68
We take a budget 50s reissue Strat and convert
it into a fire-breathing rock machine
Headstock Break Repair ....................................... 72

It looks terminal but it can be fixed. We show
how to heal a guitar thats lost its head
Inlay workshop............................................................. 75
Insider tips on how to shape some showy shell
Rolling Your Own Pickups ................................... 78

The complete guide to homemade alnico heaven
Pro Tools............................................................................ 82
We look at a some specialist gizmos that
could take your luthiery to new levels
Boost Your Spruce .....................................................86

With a little knowledge and the use of a few
tools a cheap acoustic can to made to shine
Resonator Revival..................................................... 90
A National steel is brought back to its best
Acoustic neck reset.................................................. 94

A Gibson J-45 benefist from a neck reset and
some careful attention to the dovetail joint
Acoustic Rescue Plan .............................................. 97

An bargain ebay purchase with common
issues is saved from the tip
86
BOOST YOUR
SPRUCE
50
BUILD A
LAP STEEL
Uke Box Jury.................................................................102

If youre looking to build your first instrument
a ukulele kit is an ideal place to start
Classical Renovation ............................................ 106

An old nylon strung classical is transformed
Amp Check Workshop ........................................... 110

What to do when your amplifier fails
Cone Improvements ............................................... 114

How to fix up a blown or none original Speaker cone
Mic Preamp Project ................................................ 118

How to convert the Shure M67 four channel
mixer into a classic sounding mic preamp
Mod Your Mic ............................................................... 122

A 150 condenser micis upgraded to a level
equivalent of an upmarket 1000 valve mic
61
TREMOLO
SET-UP TIPS
106
CLASSICAL
RENOVATION
75
CATALINBREAD PEDALS
Headphone Amp ........................................................126

DIY analogue tone in your pocket
Coda ....................................................................................130
Brian Mays Red Special
Main photo: Mike Prior Insert: Brian May by Chris Walter/WireImage/Getty images
PROJECT GUITAR BUILDING
GUITAR BUILDING PR0JECT
Code
Red
Can you travel the same guitar-building road as Brian May

with a budget of under 200? DAVE WALSH accepts the challenge,
and shows us how its done
rian May and his father

Harold built the iconic Red
Special 50 years ago using
whatever they could lay their
hands on for an estimated
total of 10 guineas. To celebrate this
anniversary, we thought it would
interesting to build our own version
of the guitar not an exact copy,
but an instrument that you can
modify to your own tastes using
these techniques in the spirit of one
of the most celebrated handmade
guitars ever built. We also decided
to build it in under a month from

start to finish.....
Clearly, building an exact
replica just wasnt practical due to
the complex nature of the build
and also the expense of such an
undertaking. So we decided to
approach it from a different angle:
what could be built for a miniscule
budget that retained the most
important elements but was simple
enough to attempt at home?
Most of the tools available
to a modern guitar-building
workshop, we decided, would be

banned: no pin routing, CNC or
complex finishing techniques or
materials would be used just a
few power tools and a selection of
hand tools. A bandsaw was used
briefly, but most of the cuts could
be performed with a common or
garden DIY jigsaw or, if patience
allowed, a hand saw and coping
saw. We did include a handheld
router, but its just a basic model
that many people will hopefully
have easy access to.
>
PROJECT Guitar building
1 The basis for our build

is a handmade tribute dating
from the mid-1990s
2 Drawing the outline of
the body
3 Cutting the outline with
a jigsaw
4 Perfect mirror images of
front and back
5 Neck will be set into these
maple centre blocks
6 Beginning to glue
together the layers of 12mm
and 18mm MDF to make the
middle sandwich
Construction Choices
The original Red Special is a semisolid electric guitar using a chunky
one-piece mahogany neck bolted
into a lightweight body formed
from a solid oak centre section
and hollowed wings made from
blockboard, with the joins disguised
by veneers. The unusual 24" scale
length, neck woods and tone
chambers will be vital to creating
a similar acoustic voice, so were
staying close with a few budgetary
modifications. A mahogany neck
is essential to capture the warmth
of tone associated with the RS, but
the complex body would need to be
slightly different. Blockboard was a
common material back in the day;
well be using MDF for the wing
sections of the body because its
cheap, available and in many ways
is the blockboard of today. It doesnt
have great tensile strength but it
doesnt matter as the MDF doesnt
take any of the string tension.
Fitting the maple sections
8 Marking out the cavities
8 GUITAR DIY BIBLE guitar-bass.net
Some other tough decisions were

made early on, such as the choice
not to fabricate or incorporate a
vibrato of any sort. The original RS
uses an ingenious handmade unit
that rocks on a knife-edge buried
beneath the guitar top and a roller
bridge that was years ahead of its
time. Yes, we could use a budget
Strat fulcrum vibrato, but it looks
totally wrong and will probably
sound wrong too. A cheap vibrato
is also a pain to keep in tune, so a
hardtail bridge will be used. I toyed
with the idea of a Tele bridge or
even a one-piece wrapover unit but
ultimately a good old tune-o-matic
and stop tailpiece won the day. A
perfectly usable pair can be bought
for 20 and offer solid string
anchoring and tone.
The body outline we used is close
to the original, if not exact. I made
a replica in the mid-90s before any
plans or templates were available
online; reliable information was
very scarce so I researched it as

much as was possible, and had
to guess the rest. Digging out my
replica, I decided that the outline
was close enough to use as a basis
for the body.
The mahogany neck would use
an elongated heel join set deep into
the body. A pre-squared quartersawn mahogany neck blank, bought
online, was good quality and
excellent value. The dimensions
750mm long, 70mm wide, 25mm
deep were almost spot-on for our
neck. It would leave enough length
for the pointed headstock and heel
to be carved from one piece. I also
sourced an oak fingerboard blank
that was already slotted for 24 frets
with the correct 24" scale length.
We could have made one but I felt
that it may be too tricky to try at
home without some of the specialist
tools commonly used for the job,
and I also selected a dual action
truss rod for ease of fitting.
Guitar building PROJECT
10
11
12
13
14
Beginning The Body

Real guitar making usually begins
with carefully making an extensive
set of templates. We didnt have
time for that as its too long-winded
and not really necessary to achieve a
decent one-off result. After a quick
nose around, a couple of small
sheets of 4mm thick plywood were
discovered that had once been a
protective layer on a shipment of
goods. A quick inspection showed
that they had a pleasant reddish
quality on the top layer and were
thick and strong enough to act as a
top and back for a semi-solid guitar.
Laying my own replica on top of
the sheets I traced the outline and
cut the shape one for the top and
one for the back then temporarily
joined the two pieces using small
pieces of double-sided tape which
allow the edges to be sanded flush,
leaving some extra material at the
neck join area for tweaking later.
Once separated again, we end up
with two perfectly matched mirror
image pieces that could now be
used not only as a template for the
centre of the body sandwich but
would eventually form the actual
top and back. This is the time to
measure and draw the centre lines
as theyll be used later for lining up
the rest of the body.
Some MDF offcuts fell into our
hands a 12mm and an 18mm
piece that when glued together
with the plywood back and sides
would form a slab. Adding in the
additional 8mm thickness from the
plywood gave us a total thickness of

38mm thick enough for the body.
Once dry these were also cut and
trimmed to rough shape. Tip: have
a nose around the timber cutting
section of your local DIY store as
they usually have a bin of off-cuts
going cheap, and theyll be big
enough for a guitar body. (Note: I
did cheat and use a small bandsaw
for some of this work, but a jigsaw
works just as well. Dont forget to
wear a mask when working with
MDF as its a carcinogenic.)
The original RS body
incorporates a piece of rock-hard
oak table as the central spine that
the neck and wings attach too. I
didnt have any oak but I did have
an offcut from a maple neck blank.
I decided to cut a section off and
glue it together to form a narrower
section to accept the eventual neck
pocket; the wider end piece would
give a solid section to anchor the
bridge and tailpiece.
Using the centre lines that we
drew earlier meant that lining up
the correct position for the inserts
was easy. Use the fingerboard blank
and a long steel ruler to roughly
mark where the bridge will go (24"
from the centre of the zero fret
in this instance) and position the
maple blocks, then draw accurately
around them. Now you just need
to remove the unwanted MDF and
glue in the inserts. Start by marking
and drilling the corners out and
then using the jigsaw trim out the
excess. Cut just inside the line for
safety and file and sand up to the

line for a snug fit. Glue it all together
using Titebond on a flat board for
support and to keep it level.
Once dry we mark out and cut
out the acoustic chambers. Were
going for an approximation which
has two large sections removed
down each side of the central spine
and a smaller one behind the bridge
where the vibrato lives on the
original. Again we mark and drill
the corners and then use a jigsaw
to remove the waste. It looks a little
crude at this stage but some elbow
grease with files and sandpaper
soon clean up the cuts a bobbin
sander would have been useful, but
the chambers arent visible once
the top and back are glued on.
>
9 Sawing cavities
10 The completed centre slab
11 Our blank is nice and
square. First, the trussrod
12 Routing out the
trussrod channel
13 The Allen key channel
needs a 9.5mm router bit
14 Gluing the fingerboard
with locating pins
BRIANS GUITAR
The Red Special is nothing short
of a work of genius. Built by
Brian and his dad Harold in
1963-64, the guitar is now 50
years old and is being
celebrated in a new book
published by Carlton Books,
Brian Mays Red Special: The
Story Of The Homemade Guitar
That Rocked Queen And The
World. Its a fascinating insight
into how the guitar was made,
featuring never-before-seen
images of the dismantled
instrument and X-ray shots of
the famous acoustic
chambers. A must-have for
fans of the Red Special.
Out now: 19.99
PROJECT Guitar building
15
15 Shaping the headstock

16 Trimming down the neck
blank. A regular saw and a

plane will do the job
17 Marking the tuner holes
16
Once were happy that its clean,

smooth and level, we go ahead and
attach the back piece of plywood.
Spool clamps are useful but at a
push a level surface and a few heavy
books or even bricks will do the
job. I used contact adhesive here
as it allows for an instant and very
sturdy bond.
Starting The Neck

While the body dries we can begin
building the neck. We used the
simplest method, which is a mix
of Fender style necks, with the
elongated heel mentioned earlier.
The original uses a huge chunk
of mahogany harvested from
a fireplace with a separate oak
fingerboard and a neatly carved
angled headstock, but were going
to ditch the angled headstock and
use the simpler Fender method of
a flat un-angled headstock, all cut
from the same blank.
Our 25mm deep blank is long
enough to incorporate the heel and
headstock in one go, but it was just
too narrow at the headstock for the
full width of the triangular section.
Once the neck width was drawn out
to 55mm at the heel it left 15mm
spare which I carefully trimmed off
and attached to the headstock area
as small wings taken from the heel
end to widen it enough to create the
distinctive pointed shape.
18
18 Rough-shaping the inchdeep neck with a rasp

19 Neck pocket is routed for
correct neck angle
17
Our neck blank was already

accurately cut and square on all
sides; this was the main reason for
buying in a pre-shaped blank, and
its a must if youre going to rout for
a truss rod channel as you wouldnt
necessarily have access to the
machines needed to true it up. A
decent plane, some patience, a steel
straight edge and a square will do
the trick, unless you decide to use a
real fireplace...
Again using the simplest method
available, we chose a dual-action rod
that sits in a flat channel 6mm wide
by 10mm deep. Clamping the blank
to the bench and fitting the guide to
the router, we positioned the rod in
the correct spot, exactly centre and
leaving enough length either end
for the heel and headstock. Set the
router guide for the centre of the
blank and rout the slot; spending a
few extra minutes to line everything
up accurately will allow you to not
only rout it out in two or three
passes but also use the clamps that
hold the blank level to the bench
as stops for the router, ensuring
a perfectly-cut truss rod slot. With
the guide still attached we swap
to a 9.5mm router bit and enlarge
the opening for the nut access so
we can slide an Allen key in easily.
Well remove most of the channel
access in shaping the headstock
later, but it needs to be there.
19
Next we measure and mark out

the neck width in this instance
47mm at the nut and 55mm at the
24th fret, which is unlike any other
production neck. If you would
prefer a more regular feel, mark
out a 42mm nut and 56mm at the
24th fret. With these two widths
measured and double-checked, you
can draw straight lines between
them to give the neck shape.
Continue the lines to the end of the
blank for the elongated heel and
then trim the blank down. A regular
saw and a plane will do this job but
ensure that the sides are straight
and square, or the neck will never
feel right.
Using the truss rod channel
and existing centre lines, lay the
fingerboard over the neck and
mark it out on the back. You can
now trim the board and prep it for
gluing by sanding the back flush.
With the board in place we drill
four pin holes, two through the
first fret slot and two through the
20th fret. This allows us to clamp
the board on once glued without
the danger of it slipping or moving.
Without these pins, your perfectly
aligned pieces will slip and slide all
over the place.
Remove the board with the pins
in place and insert the truss rod
with the flat bar section facing
upwards. If the routing went to
20
21
22
23
24
25
plan then it should fit snugly and

sit a couple of thou (or a fraction of
a millimetre) below the neck. Cut
and stick a thin layer of masking
tape over the channel to prevent
glue from running into the rod and
locking it solid. Apply the glue to
the neck we used Titebond as its
an excellent fingerboard glue that
dries reasonably quickly and clear.
We havent shaped or radiused the
fingerboard or neck yet, so theres
no need to be too precious with
your clamping; just get as many
on there to hold the whole thing
flat while the glue sets. Place the
board on the neck, locate the pin
holes, tap the pins gently in with
a hammer to locate it, and then
clamp the whole thing down.
Once the glue has set we can
trim down the fingerboard flush to
the neck and then cut the headstock
section down to 15mm. We used
the bandsaw for this cut, but if
26
youre using a handsaw leave some

room for filing and sanding down
to the correct depth. Mark out and
cut the headstock shape. Ive used
an approximation of the original
shape, but you could use whatever
works best for you.
Now is a good time to radius
the fingerboard. Were going for
a bend-friendly 12" radius rather
than the vintage Fender 7.25" on
the original. A radius block is very
useful here, and we certainly used
one. Take your time and start with
an aggressive 180-grade paper and
work the radius in evenly up and
down the entire length of the board,
checking regularly with a radius
gauge and straight edge, and finish
with 320 paper.
Now we can roughly shape the
neck and ensure that the taper and
sides are straight. The original
RS boasts a neck profile of truly
mammoth proportions, and ours
is similarly chunky with an inchthick profile from first to last fret.

We used files, rasps and finally
sandpaper to carve the neck, and it
didnt take very long, as its so huge!
If you decide to use a shallower
profile then always be aware of the
depth of the truss rod, as this alone
dictates how much wood can be
removed from the back section of
your neck blank.
The Neck Pocket
20 Now the neck tenon can

be sanded flush
21 Drilling the tuner holes
to 10mm
22 Colouring the neck with
mahogany stain
23 The fingerboard will be
sprayed or dyed black
24 Routing out the large
control cavity
25 Some work still to do, but
were ready for stain
Once happy with the neck profile,

we line it up on the body. For an
RS we want the neck/body join to
be approximately at the 20th fret to
bring the bridge position into the
right place. Measure and redraw the
centre lines on the body and line up
the neck heel. Once satisfied that
its central and located correctly,
draw around the heel. This outline
gives us our neck pocket. We
need to rout this out, so we use
>
27
26 Applying the Rustins

Plastic Coating
27 Pin-striping the edges
PROJECT Guitar Building
28
28 Polishing the body

29 A light sanding levels the
dots. Now for frets

30 Pre-bent frets ready for
installation
29
a quick template by lining up two

straight-edged pieces of MDF
offcut along the sides, and measure
and cut a piece for the rear of the
template. Double-sided tape is once
again used to secure the template,
and then we gradually rout down
to 15mm depth. The neck drops
in tightly so we can remove the
temporary template. We leave
enough height to set an angle in the
neck later, but now we can glue the
top section of plywood to complete
the body. Once dry, we use a flushcut router bit to reveal the neck
pocket through the plywood top.
We now need to set the neck
angle. Rather than cut it into the
heel of the neck itself, we rout the
neck pocket to an angle. There is
no set angle here its determined
entirely by the bridge that you
choose to use. A Fender bridge
requires very little angle; a wrapover
requires a reasonably steep pitch.
Were using a tune-o-matic, so we
drop the neck onto the slot, place
the bridge in its position and check
the angle using a straight edge laid
across the frets and onto the bridge
to check the angle. Were looking
for zero action, where the straight
edge or strings can be lowered so
they touch the frets all the way
along; this will allow the guitar to
be set up to any desired playing
action. If you dont have access to
a router, its possible to drill and
31
31 The side dots are short

offcuts of plastic rod
32 Completed fingerboard
with its Rustins shine
30
chisel this neck pocket it will just

take longer and more patience.
We now rout the neck pocket at an
angle using the same template as
before with some simple wooden
shims to lift one end and create
a downward angle. Dont worry
too much if the angle isnt exact
first time be patient, and slowly
rout the correct depth. Youll have
a small elevated piece of the heel
showing at the end which can be
either routed flush or removed with
a plane and files.
Once happy with the neck angle
we can trim the excess mahogany
elevation that protrudes above the
top. Once again use a router with
a temporary template, or a small
plane and files will do the job.
Finish trimming the body edges so
the sides are all straight, and correct
or finish the cutaway blends into
the heel/neck joint area.
Next we finish off shaping the
headstock, drill the tuner holes to
10mm, and then rout the control
cavity using the same flush-cut
router bit we used for the neck
pocket. We decided to use a control
layout similar to the original, so
we cut a fairly large opening in the
top to allow for the pots, switches
and pickup hook-up wires to be
accessed easily. The pickguard is
designed around your cavities so
feel free to place the electronics
wherever works best for you you
32
dont have to stick slavishly to the

original design.
Finishing Tips
The original RS painted in many
layers of Rustins Plastic Coating,
a two-pack high-build lacquer
traditionally applied with a brush.
We decided to use the same product
its a great way of achieving a
high gloss result at home but we
plan to cheat a little by spraying it
on. Once the neck and body were
prepped using fine paper down to
500 grade to leave a little key for the
lacquer, we stained the neck and
body using mahogany wood stain.
The famous red of the original is
really more of a woody orange/
brown in the flesh, and once
lacquered this stain takes on just
the right hue. Next we mask off and
darken the oak fingerboard using
nothing more than a black aerosol.
The whole thing will be lacquered
in plastic coating later so this initial
black coat is kept thin. A decent
black stain will work just as well.
I was lucky enough to hand the
whole thing over to our wonderful
paintshop man Paul Rossi Ross for
the finish work, and he mixed the
Rustins and then applied a couple
of coats to the body and neck. The
product self-levels quite well and is
left to dry overnight.
On the original RS the sides of
the body are veneered and bound
33
front and back. We didnt have

the time to do either here but we
couldnt live with a visible MDF
join, so we masked off the back and
top and applied an aerosol-based
red oxide primer. Its not a perfect
match by any means but its a neat,
quick and cheap solution.
The guitar looked great at this
stage but the fact that the budget,
brief and schedule didnt allow for
real binding was bugging me. Rossi
suggested coach pin-striping. For
those of you born after 1985, this is
a thin self-adhesive striping that is
easy to apply and comes in 3mm x
5m rolls of gloss white for a couple
of quid. After a final coat of Rustins,
it really looked the part. With the
body finish work dry and finish, we
flattened the finish to 2000 grade
wet & dry and then buffed with
budget friendly T-Cut and polish.
Fingerboard And Frets

Now we turn our attention to
some of the trickier neck jobs.
With the neck dry from its initial
lacquer coats, we block sand the
fingerboard flat using fine paper
and then install pearloid dots. We
follow the somewhat unusual RS
dot layout of 6mm dots with simple
2mm side dots made from white
rod. The dots are marked out and
then drilled to a 2mm depth and
installed with a drop of superglue.
Use a brad point drill for an
36
34
35
accurate, sharp-edged hole. If they

go in accurately theyll just need a
slight rub to level, but be careful not
to break through the finish. Painted
dots or even self adhesive stickers
would also work at a push, too.
We then install the fretwire. You
can use whatever size you prefer,
but we kept it vintage. An accurate
description of fretwork installation
would take up an entire feature on
its own and weve covered many of
the basics in past issues, so well
keep this part brief. Pre-bend the
fretwire beyond the radius that
youve set in the fingerboard, cut 24
pieces to size and then tap the wire
into the precut slots you may find
it helpful to apply a small drop of
superglue to each end of the tang
as you install them. Tap each fret
down level with the fingerboard so
it follows the radius and is seated
flush without any gaps beneath the
bead. Take your time and seat the
frets accurately, as well-seated frets
transfer tone.
Once installed trim the ends
with a flush cutter and file the ends
flush with the fingerboard careful
work here will retain the finish on
the fingerboard and neck. Level
and dress the frets using whatever
method you prefer. Once the frets
are level and the ends are smooth,
we recoat the whole thing in
Rustins. Dont worry about getting
finish on the frets as we use the
Fender method of scraping the

finish off the frets once dry and
polishing the whole thing as one.
The result is a slick, glossy feel, just
like the original. If you choose to
avoid a lot of this extra work then
just use a rosewood or even ebony
fingerboard which wont need stain
or lacquer but will give a different
feel and tone.
33 Gluing in the neck; we

only needed one clamp
34 Drilling the bridge and
tailpiece holes
35 Fitting the tuners.
Running a ruler along the rear
edges of the tuners will ensure
straightness
Fitting The Neck

Once youre happy with the finish,
the neck can be fitted. Once again
we deviated a little; the RS uses a
large bolt fixing and two smaller
screws to secure the neck to the
body, but I decided to glue it in
for a strong sturdy join. Titebond
was the choice once again and just
one clamp was needed as the neck
pocket was the perfect size (if you
find that the neck is a little loose
then consider a gap-filling epoxy
resin glue like Araldite). Apply
the glue and then clamp the neck
using some protection for the back
of the body. Check the neck angle
for the final time using the straight
edge, and then walk away and do
something else while it dries. I used
the time to screen the control cavity
using screening paint.
Hardware Time
Now its time to fit the bridge and
tailpiece and rout the body for the
pickups. Apply some masking
>
37
36 Drilling for bridge posts

and earth wire
37 Switchcraft jack socket
from the outside...
PR0JECT Guitar building
38 Switchcraft jack socket

from the inside
38
39 That massive and all-
39
important scratchplate
tape in the bridge area and use

your steel rule to draw two pencil
lines along the neck onto the tape.
Measure the gap between the
lines and divide the measurement
by two and mark it on the tape.
This is your centre line for the
pickups and bridge. A couple of
notable compromises here: there
are various versions of Burns TriSonics available of varying quality
and accuracy to Brians originals,
but they are all out of our budget.
Bespoke units wouldnt have been
in the spirit of this piece, so I settled
on a used set of Wilkinson singlecoils that I had knocking about.
These are available on eBay for a
tenner, so that sounded about right

for our budget. Purely for aesthetic
purposes I added a set of chrome
plastic covers and splashed out on a
set of matching knobs.
Mark out and place the bridge in
position on the masking tape the
position of the top E string saddle is
24" from the centre of the zero fret,
plus a couple of millimetres, and
the tailpiece 50mm further back.
Measure it all out and then space
out the pickups and mark out where
they sit using an empty cover. You
have a choice to use a rectangular
swimming pool rout as found on
modern Fenders or invest in or
make a single-coil router template.
PICKUP WIRING DIAGRAM

Credit: Esteban Anderson/AnderMay Guitar. Used with permission. All rights reserved
.020 .100
Micro Farads
Ground from
pickup
To Bridge
String Ground
Hot from pickup
NECK PICKUP
Ground from
pickup
Hot from pickup Ground from

pickup
MIDDLE PICKUP
Hot from pickup
BRIDGE PICKUP
Secure the template one pickup rout

at a time, and rout to whichever
depth is suitable your steel ruler
helps here to set the heights. If
in doubt rout a little lower than
necessary as the pickups can be
shimmed upward easily enough
but dismantling the whole thing to
re-rout lower is a total pain.
Once the routs are complete
we then drill for the tailpiece
posts, install the inserts and then
the tailpiece. We drill into the
secondary piece of maple which was
cut wide enough for the post width
specifically for this purpose, and
which lies 50mm behind the bridge
posts. With the tailpiece fitted, place
the bridge into the approximate
position and then fit a set of strings.
Before we do so we fit the tuners
and string guide blank as well need
to string her up soon.
Without the posts installed you
may need to shim the bridge to set
the bridge position perfectly and
mark out the bridge post positions.
Remember, were looking for the
exact scale length plus a couple
of millimetres on the treble side
with the bass side a further couple
of millimetres back. Slacken the
strings, remove the bridge and drill
the holes for the inserts as you did
for the tailpiece.
We also have to drill for an earth
wire from either the bridge or
tailpiece I chose the bridge for
this build as once the bridge post
insert holes are drilled its easy to
drill through into the bridge pickup
cavity for the wire, as pictured. Run
an earth wire from the hole through
the pickup rout and into the control
cavity and then hammer home
the inserts snugly and then fit the
bridge. Tune up to pitch and check
that all is well you should be able
to achieve zero action with the
bridge lowered to the body as low as
possible.
40
41
42
43
Making The Scratchplate

After installing a Switchcraft barrel
jack quick work with an 11mm drill
bit through the side and a spanner
to fit were on the home straight,
but one tricky job awaits: making
the scratchplate. Theres no real
quick, simple way to make a bespoke
guard. In the real world we would
make a template so the guard could
be repeated or laser cut, but here
were making a true one-off. First,
measure and cut a piece of one-ply
gloss black scratchplate material
big enough to cover the shape
that we need. On the RS the plate
stretches from the upper horn all the
way down to and across the lower
bout. We needed a piece 300mm
x 450mm which ate up 20 of our
budget but was well worth it to
achieve the correct look. Its a good
idea to practice the shape on paper
or thin card which can be easily
modified; when youre happy, this
can be easily transferred onto the
plastic material. Start by carefully
measuring and then roughing out
the shape and removing the lower
left-hand portion so we can see what
were doing. Once the dimensions
are correct we start by cutting out the
fingerboard slot/surround, as this
dictates the fit of the rest of the plate.
When the neck cutout is done, the
rest of the outline is fairly easy. With
the outline in place, drill for the
bridge posts and rout the pickups
slots. A pickup template here makes
sense but you could use an old
butchered Stratocaster plate as a
guide and drill and file the pickup
holes to size. Place your volume and

tone knobs on the plate and draw
around them; centre and drill out
the pot mounting holes in the plate
to fit the pot shafts. Were using CTS
pots so we drill out to 10mm. Install
the pots and pickups and it begins to
look like a guitar!
Electronics
The original intention was to
use a 3- or 5-way selector switch
wired up to give the most used of
Brians sounds; in fact I did hook
up a 3-way with the bridge and
middle permanently in series, and
it sounded so good that I decided
to blow the budget and invest an
extra few quid in a set of six slider
switches to allow me to wire her
up like the original with on/off and
phase reversal switches for each
pickup. One of the master strokes
of the original design was to wire
the pickups together in series rather
than the more usual parallel, and the
many combinations that this offers
are really only available by using
the original wiring scheme. Not
only would the switches complete
the look but more importantly they
would open up the full range of
sounds available. Sadly I had left
the decision until the last moment
so I couldnt source white switches
black ones would do for now as I
could always swap them later.
Fitting the switches is a little
tricky. I mounted them directly to
the plate rather than on a separate
metal plate beneath the pickguard as
on the original. Firstly we measure
44
and mark out the switch slots in

the plate and then, using a 1mm
drill bit, drill out the corner points
of each rectangular slot. I then
used a Dremel with a small router
bit to rough out the slots before
squaring them up with files. Drill
the mounting holes and install the
switches, wire it up and were done.
There are many conflicting
wiring diagrams around, but ours is
shown on the last page. In essence
each pickup is routed first through
a phase reversal switch and then
through an on/off switch which
joins the pickups together in series
so, for example, bridge pickup plus
middle pickup together in series
creates a pseudo-humbucker the
sound Brian May uses for most of
his heavier midrange tones.
Once wired up and after a set-up
to set intonation, we finally plug her
in and enjoy the sound and feel. The
neck is massive possibly a little too
big, which certainly explains why the
majority of the commercial copies
use a smaller more sensible neck
profile, but the tone and warmth is
undeniable. Of course it wont make
you sound exactly like Brian May
even his own guitar wont do that
for us mere mortals but for a few
quid and some time spent with tools
it will get you a good deal of the way
and is sure to be truly great fun.
Dave Walsh is the head honcho of
Eternal Guitars and Hot Rod
Pickups. For more info: www.
eternal-guitars.com or www.
facebook.com/hotrodguitarparts
40 The drilled out pot

mounting holes
41 Routing for the pickups
42 Cutting holes for the
slider switches
43 On/off and phase reverse
for each pickup
44 Our micro-budget RS,
finished and ready to rock
THE BUDGET
We went slightly over our
150 target on this project
but most of the extra
dosh went on good quality
electronic components
and decent wood where it
was needed
Neck and fingerboard 35
Body materials 10
Paint 15
Hardware: 35
Electronics 36
Pickups: 10
Plastics 25
Dots 5
Total materials and build
cost: 171
WORKSHOP Assessment advice
REPAIR WORKSHOP
DAMAGE CONTROL
Sometimes an expensive fix just doesnt add up. Luthier

DAVE WALSH helps assess whether your guitar is worth mending
re guitars disposable
objects? Luthiers dont
think so; after all, they make
their living maintaining
them and increasing their
lifespan. Every so often, though,
they run into a repair that isnt
viable. Sometimes its a case of
sentimental value, as when a
customer strolls in with a mangled
guitar that their late great aunt
left them. The trouble is, even if
mint, its only worth a couple of
hundred quid but a full rebuild
will cost double that. At other times,
a customer may request a repair on
a budget instrument that just isnt
worth the work. Youll be amazed at
what can be fixed, but in the current
climate of very low-cost far eastern
manufacture and well-made budget
models, the lines can get blurred.
So when is it time to assign your
axe to the skip? Heres a rundown
of some common and some not so
common repairs/issues that may
seem deceptively simple to repair.
Broken Headstocks
Broken headstocks 1 are an
extremely common ailment,
particularly on mahogany-necked
instruments, and thankfully in
most cases well, on a decentlymade guitar they can be relatively
straightforward to repair within
a reasonable budget. However,
this is not a repair for the novice,
even if it seems tempting to apply
superglue, Araldite, Prit Stick or
wood screws (Ive seen them all).
1 The dreaded neck break:

the value of the guitar and
the neck material are both
important factors
2 Over-tightening a truss
rod can have expensive results
Specialist clamps and cauls plus a

lot of experience is needed to assess
the correct method and approach
for returning the headstock to a
one-piece item.
A shallow-angle split with the
headstock still attached and plenty
of gluing area is a fairly inexpensive
fix on a mahogany-necked guitar
(minus any refinishing work to
conceal the repair), but on maple
or with a full break-off at an
acute angle then more elaborate
surgery including wooden splints
to reinforce the join may push the
repair beyond a sensible budget on
cheaper guitars.
Snapped truss rod

A broken truss rod 2 less
common, and often a result of
heavy-handed maintenance can
be one of the trickier jobs to rectify.
In many cases the fingerboard will
need to be removed to allow a new
rod to be inserted. On a Fender-type
electric, the skunk stripe will need
to be routed out and replaced after
installing a new rod. Its worthwhile
on an old, valuable guitar or a
higher-priced model, but if were
dealing with a cheap acoustic then,
realistically, it may be time to assign
it to the bin. On a cheaper bolt-on
electric, a new neck may be more
cost-effective than repair.
Detached
bridge/belly top
It may look terrible particularly if
youre tuning or playing the guitar
at the time but a detached bridge

3 is a common occurrence.
There are often unseen reasons
for the bridge to lift away from the
soundboard. On older guitars the
hide glue may have reached the
end of its adhesive lifespan, drying
and becoming brittle to the point
where it cant handle the string
pressure; in this instance the bridge
can be re-seated, and all will be
well. However, if the top has begun
to belly upwards because the
internal struts and bracing beneath
are loose or broken, then more
extensive surgery will be required.
On a cheaper acoustic a bridge may
come away that was not glued down
well in the first place; some modern
manufacturing dictates that bridges
are glued onto the lacquered guitar
top, so the bond is only as strong as
the lacquer adhesion. On older or
more expensive guitars the lacquer
is carefully removed so the bridge
is glued firmly to wood, and any
repair should include this simple
procedure. A good luthier will also
check that the bridgeplate which
the string ball ends anchor against
is sound and strong enough to
effectively spread the string pull
across the bracing. On very cheap
guitars the bridge can be reattached with countersunk bolts.
Separated neck
Its unusual to see a set-neck
guitar come away cleanly in two
parts 4 these days, as modern
glues tend to keep the heel joint
Assessment advice WORKSHOP
3 See a tell-tale crack at the

rear of the bridge? Detune the
guitar and seek help
4 Cleaning up a fingerboard
tongue after neck removal:
necks set like this need really
expert attention
somewhere between pretty snug

and indestructible. However, if it
happens, it can usually be repaired
unless either part is smashed into
smithereens. Old hollowbodied
Hofners are particularly susceptible
to this sort of break, as are certain
vintage Gibson SGs where the
neck tenon joint has been routed
away for the neck pickup. On older
acoustic guitars, the neck often
pulls into the neck block and raises
the action; this means a neck reset, where the old glue is softened
(usually using steam), removed,
and then re-set at the correct angle.
As all of the above is specialised
work, its only viable on guitars
above a certain price bracket. If you
have a cheap acoustic with a high
action caused by a badly angled
neck but otherwise in good shape,
then consider keeping it for slide
Smashed acoustic
5 Acoustic guitars are under a lot
of pressure. If you think of the body
as a lightweight speaker box, then
add the pressure of the neck being
pulled inward by string pressure
while the strings simultaneously
try their best to pull the bridge
away from the top of the guitar,
then youve got a volatile mixture.
An innocuous knock can open
a small crack in the body which
can soon open up into a major
structural problem unless patched
and strengthened. Now, anything
can be repaired, but if the back, top

or sides on a relatively inexpensive
acoustic are split particularly
across the grain and the bracing is
smashed, then its full-rebuild time.
Also, as most acoustics also have a
translucent finish, any repairs will
always be visible without a refinish
of some sort. Solidbody electrics are
still acoustic in nature and suffer
some of the same string pressures,
but theyre far hardier so even
a body completely split into two
pieces can be glued back together.
However, refinishing will be needed
to hide any serious repair, and
this puts the repair costs into the
unviable bracket on budget guitars.
Refinishing
6 Refinishing a guitar either
electric or especially acoustic is
a far from simple task. When you
wander into your local repairer
shop with a black-finish Strat copy
and ask for it to be painted red,
dont be surprised if he tells you to
sell it and buy another one in your
chosen colour.
Higher value guitars or badly
refinished vintage pieces are a
different kettle of fish. Theyve
already been devalued, so a really
good sympathetic refin can restore
some collectability. Acoustic guitars
require a lot of work to refinish,
including removal of the bridge,
and unless youre going for an
outlandish video prop design youll
rarely be greeted with a positive

reaction, as changing the finish
will also to some degree change
the tonal output (the same is
true on an electric guitar, but itll
be particularly noticeable on an
acoustic). Be prepared to pay high
prices if you insist on this type of
work usually more than its worth
if its a mid-budget sub-500 guitar.
Another refinishing conundrum
is the scratch/ding situation. Ive
often had players come to me
devastated because their brand
new guitar has a scratch or chip.
At this stage their pride and joy
needs to be restored to its original
pristine condition or the world will
stop turning on its axis. Of course,
its possible; many scratches can
be polished out, but if the finish
has been scratched down to the
wood then in truth the only way to
completely hide any finish damage
is a total refinish. Even if refinished
it could soon pick up another knock
along the way, and its best to try
and live with the imperfections.
The vast majority see sense at
this point, but not all. Ive seen a
chap pay hundreds of pounds for
his electric to be refinished to hide
some relatively minor damage, only
for him to arrive to collect it from
the workshop, take it from the case
in an over-excited manner and turn
around to show his mates and
whack it hard against a door frame.
You live and learn!
6
5 The nightmare scenario.
Even cracks like this can be
repaired, but the job wont
come cheap
6 Full refins like this
can cost many hundreds of
pounds. Maybe its best to live
with the battle-scars
ELECTRONICS Diagnostic tips
DIY WORKSHOP
ELECTRIC
LEARNING LAND
Your guitar doesnt work. But whats wrong the jack, the pots,
the switch or something else? Before you visit the professionals,
read our basic guide to troubleshooting electric guitar wiring
he most important aspect

of successful electrical
repair work is an efficient
diagnostic approach that
enables you to find out exactly
why a circuit is malfunctioning.
Diagnosing electrical problems is
a tricky process combining a little
hardcore knowledge with intuitive
judgement and a disciplined
process of elimination; of course,
accumulating knowledge sharpens
up your intuitive judgement and
reduces the time spent eliminating
possible problem areas.
Before attempting guitar electrosurgery, however, its necessary to
understand a few basic principles.
The most important principle is
that electricity or, more to the
point, electrons flow in circles; if a
circle is broken, the electrons cant
flow and the circuit wont work.
The wiring system within a
guitar is made up of many circles,
most of which are straightforward
and easy enough to spot and
check. Troubleshooting electrical

problems always begins with check
the circles testing because just
one broken circle somewhere in
the circuit can silence the entire
system; find it, repair it and the
jobs pretty much done.
Spot the circle

Lets consider a single-coil Strattype pickup connected to a volume
control, a tone control and then an
output socket (see Fig 1 on the
opposite page). The pickup circle
starts at the top of the pickup coil
at the live or hot lead or wire,
which then connects to the top tag
of the volume pot; this lead carries
the all-important output from
the pickup. The bottom tag of the
volume control is then connected
to the bottom connection of the
pickup coil to complete the circle;
this lead is called the earth or, to
use its full name, the earth return.
In action, the electrons flow out
from the pickups live lead, down
through the volume pots resistive

track and back to the pickup again
via the earth return. In the diagram
you can see that the bottom of both
the pickup coil and the volume pot
are also connected to the body or
casing of the volume pot, which
becomes the main earth connection
for the circuit.
This is an example of a primary
circle. Its primary because the
resistive track in the volume pot is
wired across the pickup at all times.
Fig 1 also shows another primary
circle, the one used around the tone
control; again, notice that the circle
is never broken.
Another type of circle, a
secondary circle, is used to pick the
output off the middle or wiper tag
of the volume control and send both
it and the earth connection via the
guitar lead to the amplifier, where
the circle is completed. Secondary
circles are interesting because they
are not true circles until something
makes them so the position of a
Diagnostic tips ELECTRONICS
VOLUME POT
1 This diagram illustrates

the primary and secondary
circles connecting a single
coil pickup to its volume and
tone pots
HOT LEAD
TONE POT
RESISTIVE
TRACK
RESISTIVE TRACK
CAPACITOR
OUTPUT
SOCKET
PICKUP
HOT
EARTH
EARTH LEAD
JOIN
1
PRIMARY PICKUP CIRCLE
PRIMARY TONE CONTROL CIRCLE
SECONDARY OUTPUT CIRCLE
NO CONNECTION
switch, for example, or ultimately

the guitar amplifier itself.
Conductivity
Primary and secondary circles may
be different, yet both rely on a good
earth return in order to work. Its
because of this that they are prone
to breakdown, and for the same
reason poor conductivity.
In primary circles, high resistance
solder connections (aka dry joints)
introduce this poor conductivity into
a circuit, and nine times out 10 they
can be cured by a simple jab from
a hot soldering iron. Resoldering a
dodgy dry solder joint restores its
electrical resistance to the electron
flow to nearly zero ohms and, more
importantly, fixes it at that point; the
joint then presents the same near
zero resistance each time it is used,
and so becomes reliable.
Secondary circles can also suffer
from dry joint syndrome, but
theyre more likely to be troubled by
dry contact syndrome a condition
where the contacts within a switch,
a pot or an output socket become
tarnished. At its worst the tarnish
is actually a thin film of very high
resistance oxidation which prevents
the electrons getting through. Its
possible to clean contacts to remove
the oxidation, but as oxidation eats
into the surface of the contacts
and takes away any hope of true
reliability, the best cure is often to
bin the offending part and go for
replacement. At best, however, the
electrons are halted by a thin film
of crud shed by you, the player.
This can usually be removed with
appropriate spray cleaners, but be
warned: crud is an acidic sweatbased compound, very partial to

electrical contacts!
Spot the difference

Components suffering from heavy
crud build-up will work properly
most of the time, but every now
and then theyll need to be hit extra
hard or given a vicious waggle to
make them operate; conversely,
components suffering from
oxidation become very sensitive
and usually only work if they are
left untouched by the player. Both
problems are very common and
relatively easy to spot.
Hunting the fault

Freshly armed with your
understanding of circles and
dodgy joints you are now ready
to troubleshoot just about any
guitar. First, plug the offending
instrument, with its volume and
tone controls turned up full, into
an amplifier. Select the neck pickup
position on the selector switch, and
hit the strings. If you hear nothing
from the amp, flip the switch to the
bridge pickup and hit the strings
again. If you still hear nothing,
jiggle the lead in the output socket
and listen for a crackling make-orbreak noise from the amp. If you
hear a sudden rush of sound, then
youve found your major problem
the jack socket contacts and/or its
solder connections are breaking the
outputs secondary circle. Equally,
you may find that the output socket
works fine and jiggling the pickup
selector switch restores the sound.
Whichever way, the nature of the
problem is the same: poor solder

connections on the component
and/or tarnished contacts within
it are interrupting or breaking the
circuit circle.
Volume and tone controls
can also silence an otherwise
functioning primary circuit circle
if a resistive track on a pot has
become so filthy that the wiper
is unable to pick up the signal.
Spotting this problem is simplicity
itself: if the amp is filled with gritty
sandpaper-type noises as you turn
the pot back and forth,thats the telltale sign that the track and wiper
are dirty and need to be cleaned or
the part replaced.
The diagnostic nature of electrical
repairs has a real Sherlock Holmes
feel and it can be very satisfying
when the problem is discovered.
External examination
Next, armed with a pencil, lets
troubleshoot a Strat with a noisy
pickup selector switch. Start with
the same test procedure as outlined
before: plug the instrument into
an amp via a lead and turn all the
guitar controls up full. Waggle the
switch back and forth and listen
to the noises from the amplifier.
A switch that is working properly
will create a mild click from the
speaker as it moves between the
settings (this level of switch noise is
acceptable, as the switch is making
and breaking the signal path). A
switch with worn or dirty contacts
will sound and feel altogether
different moving it between the
settings makes the amp crackle
and roar, and the switch may feel >
ELECTRONICS
INTERVIEW Vinnie
Diagnostic
Mooretips
& Paul Raymond | UFO
3 Resoldering
the pickup earth
return wire to a
pot casing
2 Clunk-testing pickups
works on any guitar with
exposed polepieces, such as
this Telecaster
3 The standard Stratocaster
style wiring
stiff and difficult to move.

We already knew the Strat had a
dodgy switch, so before removing
the scratchplate to fix it, check if
there is anything else wrong with
the guitar. Start with the pickups,
and be sure to note the results of
your tests on paper as you go along.
Testing the pickups

Select the neck pickup and turn
the amp up a little. Next, hold a
small steel screwdriver by its blade
and touch it onto each pole of that
pickup 2 (you may want to lay the
guitar down flat). The screwdriver
will be drawn by the magnetism and
should make a solid clunk sound
from the speaker as it makes contact
with the pole. If that is all you hear,
then the pole has passed the test.
Before moving on to clunk-test
the next pole, make sure that the
screwdriver is NOT being earthed
out by touching a string. With
the screwdriver correctly in place
on the pole touch the blade and
listen out for a loud hum from the
amp. If the speaker still remains
silent then the pole is functioning
correctly, if it hums crazily then you
have discovered a fault which could
be within the pickup, its wiring
connections or both, and this fault
could also be contributing to the
noisy switch. Move the selector
switch to the middle pickup and
test its poles in the same way,
and finish up by clunk-testing the
bridge pickup.
Next, hit the strings and turn the
volume pot down and up to see that
it works properly without adding
any crackles to the sound. Copy
the test with the two tone controls
(just remember to select the correct

pickups before you check the pots).
When checking tone controls, also
listen out for how the tone changes
as you turn the pot up and down.
If it behaves more like a volume
control than a tone control then
there is fault either with the pot,
its capacitor, the wiring around the
component, or all three.
The verdict
Weve carried out our external
examination of the troublesome
Strat. What do we know? Well,
the selector switch has had it, the
pickups seem okay, but the first
tone control (the one for the neck
pickup) is noisy and doesnt sound
quite right. Of course, you would
have jotted all this down on your
checklist. So now its either time for
some DIY or if you dont feel happy
about that, a trip to a repair person.
Under the hood

If youre going DIY, the first step
is to access the offending controls.
Slacken and remove the strings and
with a small cross-head screwdriver
remove the scratchplate screws;
place them on a tin lid or similar for
safe keeping. Pull the scratchplate
upwards and out from the body
and turn it over to see underneath.
Watch out for the output socket
leads and the bridge earth wire,
which will still be attached to the
guitar body.
The photo above on the left 3
shows a typical Strat scratchplate;
you can see how the three pickup
live leads go straight to their
respective terminals on the switch,
whereas the three pickup earth
leads, and the bridge earth lead, are

soldered together onto the back of
the volume pot. This all-togetherin-one-place earthing technique is
a very reliable way to make a main
earth return point for both the
audio signal and the earth plane
screening within the guitar. Some
Strats also hardwire the casing of
both tone pots and the chassis of
the five-way switch to the casing of
the volume pot, a technique which
ensures that all the exposed metal
parts of these components are
properly earthed.
Unfortunately, older Strats and
many copies omit these additional
earth wires and instead provide
the metal parts with an earth
connection via a metal foil screen
stuck to the rear of the scratchplate.
The electrical connection is
made by squashing the foil onto
the underside of the pot when
the fixing nut is tightened. The
squashed foil approach is fine
when the guitar is new and clean
but oxidation and dirt can build up
between the foil and the pots which
increases the electrical resistance
of their connection and upsets the
earth return for the tone controls.
Back to our theoretical patient.
The switch? Its possible that
cleaning might quieten it, but the
best solution is to bin it and replace
it with a new one. Dirt and crud has
also built up between the foil and
the first tone control, which is
cleanable and so repairable. If this
were a real guitar I would hard-wire
the tone controls and the switch to
the casing of the volume pot and
thereby avoid this particular
problem happening again..
FEEL. INSPIRED. AGAIN.
#FEELINSPIREDAGAIN
ELECTRONICS Basic Tools
DIY ELECTRONICS
TOOLS OF THE TRADE
Dont know your cross-head from your multi-core? Scan your

beadies over these pages for a comprehensive outline of the basic
tools required to work on electric guitars and basses
ou dont need a workshop

bulging with gear to repair
electric guitars all it takes
to get started is a handful of
tools costing as little as about
35, and a clear table top (plus, of
course, access to a mains socket to
power a desk light and a soldering
iron). Fortunately, most of the tools
used to repair electric guitars are
the same as those you would use
for regular domestic electrical work.
Heres a typical list of tools required
for electro-surgery
Screwdrivers
Medium-size Philips cross-head
for scratchplate and cavity plate
screws, switch screws and pickup
screws, and so on.
Medium-size flat-blade for
most control knob fixing screws,
plus Gibson humbucker-type height
adjuster screws.
Pliers
Small to medium sized wire cutters
(also called electricians cutters).
Medium-sharp knife
A small kitchen knife with a threeinch blade the size you might
choose to cut small vegetables is
my favourite. The blade isnt as
sharp as a scalpel, but this reduces
the chances of cutting both the
insulation and the multi-core wire
when you strip the end of a wire

in preparation for tinning. This
can be tricky on both screened and
unscreened wire.
Small table-mounted vice

A 3" to 4" bench-mount type is
best. Maplin and B&Q have many
suitable small vices on offer; some
are fixed to the table by a single
screw clamp, while some are held
by a devilishly cunning sucker
mechanism. A great first-time vice
is available from Maplin; they call
it a Hobby Vice and it costs around
15. The vice is vacuum-mounted,
and is man enough for most jobs.
Their Table Vice, however, is a
much better bet, and it costs about
the same. This vice mechanism
is well-made with a very cunning
fit any situation table-mounting
system great for guitar techs.
Desk light
Any domestic Anglepoise-type light
will do.
Box spanners
You will need a set of three doubleended box spanners which have
different-sized spanners at each
end: 12 and 13mm, 10 and 11mm,
and a 2 and 4BA. Box spanners are
a really useful tools as they allow
you to slacken and tighten nuts
on a guitar without endangering
the finish or the scratchplate. The

three sizes quoted cover the volume
and tone control nuts, the larger
output socket, and the mighty fiddly
miniature toggle-switch fixing nut.
The output socket nut on guitars
that use a recessed output socket,
such as a Strat or Telecaster, can
only be tightened well with a box
spanner, so this size is a must.
Soldering iron
You will need two soldering irons,
a 15W to 25W pencil-type, and a
whopping great 100W soldering
gun. The pencil iron is used mostly
for soldering the wires that carry
the signal of the pickups; these
connections are quite small and so
relatively easy to solder quickly and
successfully. My favourite iron is
an Antex 15W pencil type which is
light and heats up rapidly. Itll cost
around 20 from Maplin.
The solder gun is used to
unsolder earth connections to the
metal casing of volume and tone
controls. These are much harder to
work on than signal connections
because the metal casings are
substantial enough to draw the
heat away from a small iron and so
prevent the solder from melting.
This earth the casing technique
is important because it provides
both a reliable and an effective
method of distributing the earth
Basic Tools ELECTRONICS
1 Left to right: a Philips

screwdriver, box spanners and
a table mounted vice
2 Left to right: a soldering
gun, a pencil soldering iron
and a pair of pliers
return within the guitar and also

valuable EMR hum and buzz
screening. Sadly, the connections
to the casing are impossible to
unsolder with a low-wattage
soldering iron; this is a job best
left to a solder gun which heats up
rapidly when you pull and hold the
trigger. Do that and its ready to
pour serious wattage into the solder
connection then the gun happily
turns itself off and the tip cools
down when the trigger is released.
My own gun is produced by Weller
and has proven itself to be a reliable
and effective bit of kit. Most regular
DIY stores will sell this gun or one
very like it from around 30.
For the one-stop shopper some
online outfits offer complete
soldering kits for around 30,
which can come complete with a
100W gun, a 30W pencil iron, a
miniature workpiece holder and a
bundle of spare bits and solder.
comes up! This position guarantees

a lung full of unpleasantness which
is probably very unhealthy.
Soldering: the rules

Electrical soldering is an easy
skill to master if you follow
the right procedures. Its all
about preparation, an organised
worksurface, and good technique.
In fact, if you need the four golden
rules of soldering, here they are
1) All contacts to be soldered
together must be clean of tarnish
and oxidation, made tidy and
correctly tinned.
2) Contacts to be soldered together
must be placed together and heated
up by the iron sufficiently to melt
the solder tinning before any further
solder is applied to them.
3) The new joint must remain totally
still whilst the solder cools.
Multi-core solder
Medium weight multi-core solder
is suitable for both signal and earth
connections. Buy small amounts to
begin with, and rolls when youve
got the hang of it. Down the centre
of this solder run four or more lines
of flux which travel the length of the
solder, in Brighton rock lettering
style. The flux is a nasty concoction
of chemicals which eat into the
surface of the metals to be soldered
an important brew, as it cleans the
metal surfaces and aids the transfer
of heat from the gun, but it stinks
when it melts so try not to have
your head over the iron looking
down when the little puff of smoke
4) Only use multi-core solder.
The first three rules require a little

practise to perfect.
Cleaning duties
Cleaning the contacts before
soldering is important because
it ensures that the solder takes
quickly to the new joint. Speed
is of the essence here as it saves
the rest of the component from
excessive heat stress, an important
consideration on small components
such as capacitors, switch contacts
and the insulation on most of the
signal carrying wires.
Once clean, the contacts are

tinned with the iron, leaving a thin
layer of solder on the end of the
wire or on the surface of a contact
or solder tag. This prepares them to
be soldered back into the circuit.
Tinning a wire
Youll encounter three sorts of
wire in electric guitars: single-core,
multi-strand and screened. Tinning
a single-core wire is the easiest:
first, strip off a short length of
insulation to expose the wire inside,
and scrape it with the knife. Next,
apply the tip of the hot iron to the
wire and wait a second or two for it
to warm up. Now push one end of
the solder onto the wire and watch
as it melts instantly on contact. Pull
the solder away from the wire and
then remove the iron. The wire is
properly tinned when the entire
surface of the exposed end is plated
with a thin coating of solder.
The most common type of
wire you will encounter is multistrand, which contains not just
one core of wire as in the previous
example, but many. These strands
must be twisted together tidily
before the wire is tinned; the twist
and the solder tinning ties the
strands together so that they will
not unravel when joined into the
circuit. Apply the iron and then the
solder as before.
Although tinning is the simplest
part of soldering many people skip
it, hoping that sheer willpower will
make it happen correctly. Dont be
tempted a little cleaning and
tinning can save hours of work and
some deep-fried components.
WORKSHOP Soldering
DIY WORKSHOP
SOLDER
YOUR SOUL
With hot iron in one hand and a roll of multi-core in the other, we
return to the land of DIY guitar electronics ready to fix a faulty
Strat and to pledge allegiance to the four sacred rules of soldering
n the last workshop we outlined

the basic tools you will require
for guitar electronics work and
went on to introduce multi-core
solder and the four sacred rules
of soldering. Rule one, thou shalt
always tin, was explained, and we
examined examples of thoroughly
tinning both single and multi-core
wire. We also explained the fourth
rule concerning multi-core solder.
Now its time to fully investigate
how to deal with rules two and
three. However, for the sake of
completeness, lets review the four
rules in all their glory.
1. All contacts must be clean of

tarnish and oxidation, tidy and
correctly tinned.
2. Tinned contacts must be placed
together and heated up by the iron
sufficiently to melt the solder tinning
before any further solder is applied.
3. The new joint must remain
completely still whilst the solder

both melts and cools.
4. Only use multi-core solder.
As you may have guessed, rules

two and three happen in quick
succession, and once you have
them mastered theyll appear
like a single action. If they dont
run together smoothly then
youll undoubtedly create a high
resistance dry joint not good, and
not clever. Making it all happen
correctly as one action is difficult
because soldering usually requires
three hands: one to hold the loose
wire in the correct position, another
to drive the soldering iron, and a
third to guide the solder into just
the right position at just the right
time. Making do with two is not
really a hardship, but it does mean
that you will have to learn a few
tricks to create a third hand and
maybe even a fourth wherever
and however they are needed.
A great deal of imagination can

go into devising extra hands out of
objects that are readily available, an
approach I take myself as no two
joints are ever quite the same. Its
possible to buy soldering aids from
electronic companies like Maplins;
these cunning devices use fleximount crocodile clips to hold wires
and components where you want
them while you apply the soldering
iron. These can help you set up the
job so that the eventual soldering
can be unhurried and therefore
efficiently brief.
One good way that the first extra
hand is used is to hold the source
of the solder in a fixed position
so that a length of solder can be
unwound and arranged just as you
want it. A large reel of solder helps
out here since its quite weighty
and stays where you put it on the
table. The stability of the reel, then,
is your first extra hand; solder from
a light plastic dispenser is harder
to manage though it can be held
Soldering WORKSHOP
firmly by a laying it on its side

beneath a book or heavy ornament.
Once the source has been tied
down, sufficient solder can be
unwound and arranged to be in
close proximity to the work area.
Arrange the solder so that it leaves
the reel as close to your work top as
possible and bend it upwards at 45
degrees as you approach the work.
An unsupported length of solder
will try to droop or move away from
the job at just the wrong moment,
so next introduce an S-shaped
bend two or three inches from the
working end of the solder to make
the it more rigid and manageable.
The S shape is another extra hand
if you arrange the solder like a
crane over the new joint it should
stay still and ready to use
With the solder crane in place,
the iron hot and the Anglepoise
on, lets consider a fictitious solder
job: you have just fitted a new neck
pickup to your beloved Telecaster
and are about to solder the live
output lead to the switch and the
earth lead to the rear of the volume
pot. The control plate is open and
the plate mounted switch lies
tags-up, ready to go under the iron.
Having tinned the tag and the
pickup hot lead, touch the tip of
the iron back onto the tag. Watch
carefully as the solder melts on the
tag as the heat is transferred across
from the iron. When all the solder
has melted, push the tinned tip of
the pickup lead through the hole
in the tag and watch as the heat
from the tag is transferred across
to the wire. Remove the iron only
when the solder tinning melts on
the wire, and as you do so, blow on
the joint to cool it down. The hand

used to hold the wire must remain
completely still so that the wire
does not move as the solder cools.
At this point the wire is soldered
to the tag, but the joint is not very
strong; more solder is required to
make it reliable. Adding extra solder
can be quite tricky as the joint
will probably spring apart if you
apply the iron a second time. This
situation calls for dexterity, more
cunning and a little rule-bending. I
use a technique that involves using
my left hand to hold the wire in the
correct position with my thumb
and little finger while I guide the
solder from the aforementioned
crane between the remaining three
fingers onto the joint. The photo
above left shows this in action.
Although this works most of the
time, its not a universal solution
sometimes you just cant get as
close to the job as you wish. On
these occasions it is perfectly fine to
use the iron to transfer solder to the
tinned-only joint.
Arrange the solder crane as
close to the work as possible and
ensure that you can hold the wire in
position with your hand. Touch the
tip of the iron onto the end of the
solder and load it with molten solder.
Remove the iron from the solder and
touch the solder laden tip onto the
tinned-only joint. Watch as the heat
transfer suddenly melts the solder
on the tag and wire. As it does so the
solder on the iron will leave the iron
and mix with the solder already on
the joint. Remove the iron and once
again hold everything completely
while it cools, blowing on the joint
again to help it along.
As solder joints are so individual

you need to deal with each job as it
comes along. Practicing on some
throwaway components can help to
get a feel of the iron and solder.
If you choose to rewire tricky
parts of the guitar electrics away
from the instrument, then a small
vice is an absolute must. Soldering
a tone control capacitor across its
tone pot, for example, is much
easier in a vice; the same goes for
wiring the between contacts or
cross-wiring for a series/parallel
humbucker switch. The job is done
quicker and more tidily if the switch
is held firmly between the jaws of
a vice because the contacts to be
soldered are accessible and, thanks
to the Anglepoise light, clearly
visible and perfectly still.
The next patient is a standard nofrills USA-built Fender Stratocaster.
Its problems are twofold: the back
pickup is hard to select switch
position 5 works occasionally,
mostly it just hums loudly; and the
guitar hums when the musician
takes his hands off the strings.
1 The crane method:

hold the wire in position with
thumb and little finger while
guiding solder onto the joint
2 A dry solder joint to the
earth tag is a problem that can
contribute to unwanted hum
Hands off buzz

Any guitar that hums will have an
earthing problem. The hands-off
buzz is probably down to a break
somewhere in the earth circuit.
When repairing any guitar with
these symptoms, first check the
wire which joins the strings at
the bridge to the earth side of the
controls usually to the back of
the volume pot casing. This wire is
commonly called the string earth
and most passive guitars become
hummy if this wire is broken or is
making poor contact.
>
WORKSHOP
INTERVIEW Soldering
Vinnie Moore & Paul Raymond | UFO
3 Carefully resoldering
the pickup earth return wire
to a pot casing
With this Strat its unlikely to be

a problem at the bridge end of the
wire. Fender changed their string
earth design in the 70s, making
a serious attempt to avoid such
problems with a body-mounted
solder tag and shielding paint on
the inside of the body cavity. The
new tag was positioned near the
control cavity and was wired in two
directions: one wire to the vibrato
spring-claw, the other to the rear of
the volume pot, with the tag also in
electrical contact with the shielding
paint. A nifty idea, because the
earth tag sorts out many of the
earthing problems within a Fender
type guitar: firstly it tidies up the
earth plane within the guitar by
creating a single earth point to
which all the relevant parts of the
circuit can be connected; secondly,
it enables the body cavity to be
screened.
Adding the tag also protects the
wire that runs to the vibrato spring
claw from being yanked when
the scratchplate is removed a
common problem with the original
design. If you inadvertently pulled
hard on the old type of string earth
lead, it was possible to jar the solder
joint on the spring claw enough to
make it become one big dry joint,
right where you need one the least.
Resoldering this connection is very
difficult as the large spring claw
draws the heat away from the joint;
a successful resolder of this joint
requires serious cleaning and every
bit of power the solder gun can

provide. Adding the tag avoids this
by moving the weak point to a more
manageable position for soldering.
Make the switch

The second problem with the Strat,
the intermittent, humming on
switch position 5, is familiar: the
contacts used for the bridge pickup
(position 5 on the switch) are
probably twisted out of alignment.
If so, they could be touching the
metal chassis of the switch when
the bridge pickup is selected. If the
chassis of the switch is not earthed
then it could be making contact
with the live or hot output of the
switch and so humming when
touched. In the worst case it could
hum even if not touched.
Surgery time
Removing the scratchplate reveals
that the string earth connection at
the aforementioned tag has become
a dry joint, probably through being
tugged too much. The selector
switch is infested with crud to the
extent that the contacts used for
position 5 are eaten almost half
away (crud never sleeps). The only
solution is to bin the whole part and
replace it with a new switch. The
earth connection to the rear pickup
has also become a dry joint, and
this is contributing to the hum in
position 5. Resoldering the earth tag
and the pickup earth return wire
will cure the hum, and replacing
the switch will bring the rear pickup

back to life.
Dry joints
As you can see, dry joints were
responsible for most of the
problems with this guitar. Spotting
them is an important part of
troubleshooting electrical guitar
problems. Fortunately, this is
relatively easy: dodgy joints usually
take on a mottled, dull grey colour,
much like pewter or zinc, whereas
a proper, electrically sound joint
remains shiny and mirror-like.
One way to pick out the baddies is
with your Anglepoise light if you
arrange the light to shine down
onto the scratchplate, good joints
will catch the light and reflect it
back, while dry joints remain dull
and wont reflect much at all. This
light method is a very helpful way
to sniff out a problem, but testing
the joint is best left to a multimeter.
Multimeters
Maybe you can get by without one
of these gizmos, but even a simple
multimeter can be very useful and
some work, on humbucking
pickups for example, is pretty much
impossible without one. Two kinds
of multimeter are available: the old
AVO-style analogue needle-type
meters and the newer digital LCD
readout type. I find that the
needle-type is easier to read, while
the digital types can only be read if
you can look down on them.
WORKSHOP 25 Les Paul mods
25 Les Paul mods WORKSHOP
25 Ways
To Upgrade
Your Les Paul
From easy, zero-cost mods to tone-expanding wiring changes, clever vibrato

technology and even head-to-toe vintage makeovers, there are many ways to
personalise and improve your Les Paul. HUW PRICE reveals our pick of the very best
ven if youre disinclined to

undertake woodwork or have
at it with a soldering iron,
theres still plenty of scope for
modifying, customising and
upgrading your Les Paul. Broadly
speaking the categories break down
into cosmetic changes, electrical
mods, and hardware upgrades.
The iconic models Gibson
made during the late 1950s do
not enchant all Les Paul players,
but for some it has become an
obsession. Original examples are in
short supply given that only 1500
or so were made, and the market
value has sky-rocketed accordingly.
Unsurprisingly, an industry of parts
suppliers now serves the needs of
Les Paul players wishing to create

their own vintage replicas, and this
is the mindset that drives most of
the cosmetic changes.
The vintage ethos drives many of
the electrical modifications too, with
circuit reconfigurations, capacitor
tweaks and the ubiquitous PAF
replica pickups. However, this is
one area where Les Paul players
need not be bound by vintage
correctness. There are easy and
affordable ways to customise and
expand your range of tones, and
players are no longer restricted to
conventional control layouts or even
P90 and PAF-style pickups.
In the past many Les Paul players
shied away from hardware upgrades
because they were reluctant to drill

holes in a quality guitar. Nowadays
the range of bridges, tailpieces,
tremolos and tuners that will slot
right in place is extensive. However,
you should be aware that USAmade Les Pauls are fitted with
hardware that conforms to imperial
measurements, whereas those of
Far Eastern manufacture like
Epiphones and the various Japanese
replicas require metric hardware.
Here are 25 of our top tips for
modifying Les Pauls or SGs,
ES-335s and others. Some are costly
while others are cheap, and many
wont cost a thing. Have fun and
dont do anything irreversible
that you may come to regret.
>
50s WIRING
This is just about the simplest modification you

can perform on your Gibson, or indeed any guitar
and it doesnt cost a thing. They call it 50s
wiring because its the way Gibson hooked things
up until around 1962 or so, and the only actual
difference was that they connected the tone
control to the output (ie. middle) tag of the volume
control rather than the input (ie. outer) tag. With

50s wiring you can turn down your volume control
without the sound muddying up quite so much, and
the volume and tone controls also become more
interactive, which may be the reason why Gibson
changed it. If you decide you dont like it, simply
reverse the procedure.
TAILPIECES
Gibsons first stop tailpiece the ones fitted to the

50s collectors guitars that cost the same as a
decent apartment was originally made from
aluminium, but later on this changed to zinc, which
remains stock on current models. Some players
claim aluminium gives extra woodiness and more
treble with a wider dynamic range, while zinc fans
argue that their preferred metal has more low end
and sustain. Others will tell you that they cant
hear any difference whatsoever but even so, its
a simple and reversible DIY modification. The
Gibson version costs around 120, but alternatives
from Faber, Pigtail, Gotoh, Kluson and others start
from about 30. We believe aluminium sounds
different, but even if you cant hear it, at least your
Lester will be a bit lighter.
Fitting an aluminium tailpiece is a cheap and

easy modification that improves the tone of a
Les Paul for many players. Faber in Germany
offer aluminium tailpieces with various degrees
of relicing.
This picture shows the first stage of a 50s style wiring installation. Note how the bumblebee
capacitors are connected to the centre tags of the volume controls.
TONE CAP SWAPS AND UPGRADES
It is incorrect to say that tone capacitors have no

effect on the sound of a guitar when the tone
controls are fully up, because there is always some
treble bleed when a tone circuit is installed so
the value of the capacitor will determine the
frequency at which roll-off occurs. Some players
are convinced that they can discern sonic
differences between different types of capacitor of

the same value. The originals were 0.022uF paper/
oil types; repros are available or you can use Mallory
150s, Sprague Orange Drops or Vitamin Qs. Some
like to experiment with different values too for
increased or decreased treble roll-off. Our best
advice is to experiment!
0.022uF paper/oil capacitors nicknamed bumblebees were installed in original Les Pauls. Replicas
are available but not all are paper/oil. Russian made K40Y and K42Y paper-oil capacitors are readily
available cost effective equivalents.
COVER REMOVAL
This is one of the earliest mods players performed

on their humbucker-equipped Gibsons (Claptons
Beano burst was a classic example). It was
generally thought at the time that removing the
covers made the pickups sound louder. In fact
players who removed their covers were probably
just hearing more treble, because the capacitive
effect of the covers caused high frequency roll-off.
Vintage nickel silver covers were very thin and
kept treble loss to a minimum, while later covers,
especially thick brass ones did the upper
frequency response no favours. The principle also
applies to Telecaster neck pickups, which can be
de-muffled by snipping the bridging wire from the
cover to the negative wire.
Covers are usually held in place with two blobs

of solder. Use a Stanley knife to cut through the
solder, being extremely careful with your
fingers and the pickup itself, then lift the cover
off. Here we see an uncovered double black
Shed PAF Daddy.
TOP WRAPPING
In addition to providing an anchor point for the

strings, the stop tailpiece ensures that the strings
have a suitable break-angle over the saddles.
However, when the tailpiece is screwed tight to the
body, the angle might be too sharp and the strings
may end up contacting the back of the bridge,
Much is made of the type of material used for

nuts. Traditionalists insist on bone, some prefer
the slippery attributes of high-tech materials like
Graphtech, while Lester players like Zakk Wylde
famously prefer brass. Currently Gibson installs a
variety of nuts depending on the model, including
an unusual zero fret device that allows player to
adjust string height. Even so, a nut can only affect
the tone of open strings, so the main reason for
installing a new nut would be if the slots are
inaccurately cut or they prove to be too deep after
a re-fret. For vintage authenticity you might
consider installing a 6/6 grade nylon nut. Pre-cut
nylon nuts are available, but often at a steep
price. Alternatively, you can buy a sheet of 6/6
nylon and make one up.
which increases the chances of string breakage. One

solution is to feed the strings through the tailpiece
from the pickup side and wrap them over the top of
the tailpiece. Proponents claim that you get the
tonal benefits of tailpiece-to-body contact coupled
with more sustain and a slinkier playing feel.
Discussions about guitar setup and playability

often overlook the importance of a well-cut and
properly slotted nut. This may be one for a
professional luthier, but you can choose various
materials. Heres one being made by reader
Tony Berrington in correct 50s spec nylon.
This is one mod you can easily try for zero cost. Not everybody likes the result, but many players
who try the wrap over trick including Bonamassa, Wylde and Gibbons never go back.
NYLON SADDLES
NUT JOBS
ALTERNATIVE PICKUPS
Nylon isnt generally regarded as a tone-enhancing

material, but here it is again. Les Pauls have
always had metal saddles, and the originals were
nickel-plated brass. Gibsons early Tun-O-Maticequipped semi-acoustics had the same, but Gibson
were fitting nylon saddles on the semis by the mid
60s. When comparing a 60 ES-330 with a 64
ES-330 we noticed the 64 had a sweeter and more
resonant acoustic tone, and a quick bridge swap
demonstrated that the nylon saddles were
responsible. If you want a similar effect, try some
nylon saddles on your Lester or mix up metal for
the wound strings with nylon for the un-wound
ones, like Joe Bonamassa.
Due to the way that theyre mounted, pickupswapping was never a big thing among Les Paul
players; chopping Fenders was always an easier
and less scary proposition. These days things are
simpler and all kinds of options are now available
for humbucker and P90-equipped Les Pauls. If you
Joe Bonamassa favours nylon saddles for the

plain strings on his Gibson signature model.
Hes a top wrap kinda guy too.
The Seymour Duncan P-Rails has to be the most versatile drop-in pickup replacement for Les Pauls.
It combines a P90 and a narrow single coil with a blade magnet. The coils can be used individually or
combined in series for humbucker-type tones.
want an early 50s tone, there are plenty of P90s in

PAF mounts or what about getting Gretschy with
an English mount and P90-sized FilterTron or
DeArmond soundalikes from TV Jones. Alternatively,
Seymour Duncans P-Rails gives P90, PAF and
Fender-like sounds at the flick of a switch.
>
RELIC PLASTICS
Without wishing to offend anybody, getting into

replica plastic parts for Les Pauls will lead you
straight to the lunatic fringe of the relicing scene.
Obsessives often engage in heated discussions
about colour, texture and even smell. Put it this
way, you will know your bendy Butyrate M69 rings
are right when they smell of sick and they cost you
a mere 200. Other ber-expensive items may
include single-ring tuner buttons and genuine
Italian celluloid fingerboard inlays. Then theres
knobs, switch tips and poker chips to consider.
Vintage Haven, Montreux, Dead Mint Club,
Monster Relic, Retro Vibe and Time Machine
Collection can make your vintage replica look
amazing but it will sound exactly the same.
11
TUNER SWAP
Most of the 50s Les Pauls associated with

big-name players have diecast tuners with the
exception of Billy Gibbons Pearly Gates. Taking a
Black & Decker to the headstock of a vintage LP
may seem horrific nowadays, but diecast tuners
require wider holes than Klusons and players were
more concerned with keeping their guitars in tune
than originality. Increased mass at the headstock

may have enhanced sustain, too. Nowadays players
are equally likely to retrofit vintage-style tuners, but
youll need conversion bushes to do it. Youll get
vintage looks and livelier dynamics and, contrary
to vintage lore, decent Kluson-style tuners hold their
tuning just as well as diecasts.
Relic parts like these Time Machine Collection

M69 rings dont come cheap, but they look a lot
better than the ones Gibson use.
10 TAILPIECE CLAMPING
Traditional tailpiece studs do not grip stop

tailpieces at all the only thing holding the
tailpiece in position is the pull of the strings.
Often youll see tailpieces tilting forward, and
its claimed that better tone can be achieved by
securing the tailpiece more securely. Tone Pros
sell a range of replacement studs that comprise
a stud and a separate cap that screws down onto
the top of the tailpiece, while the Faber Tone
Lock kits consist of replacement studs with
spacer rings of various depths, so your tailpiece
will be gripped and the original appearance is
maintained especially if you go for a reliced
set. The spacers also allow you to set the
tailpiece higher off the body for a looser feel.
The obvious way to keep the tailpiece fixed in

position is to screw it flat to the body. Setting it
higher softens the break angle, much like
top-wrapping, but the tailpiece may need to be
secured. Tone Pros locking studs provide an
effective solution.
There was a time when players removed their Klusons and fitted Grovers and Schallers for improved
tuning stability. These days the trend is the opposite, and here are a couple of Kluson-style repros
from Fake 58 one with a simple aged button and the other with a shrunken and shrivelled button.
12
NO-LOAD TONE POTS
A lack of clarity and treble is a common Les

Paul-related complaint, but what can you do when
pickup-swapping isnt an option? Whenever a
guitar is fitted with tone controls, there is always
some treble bleed through the tone circuit (you
can test this and see for yourself by disconnecting
the tone circuit from the volume control).
Installing a no load tone control potentiometer

ensures that at the top of the turn the pot clicks into
a position that disconnects it from the circuit and
eliminates treble bleed. Turn the pot down, and it
will function as a normal tone control. You can buy
them or make your own, and youll notice the
biggest difference in the neck position.
Installing no-load potentiometers for your tone controls may help to make your Les Paul sound
brighter and clearer. Theyre easy to buy, but its almost as easy to make them yourself.
13
14
JIMMY PAGE WIRING
Any Les Paul with two humbuckers is actually equipped with four pickups
two pairs of single coils with each pair wired in series. When you think about
the range of tones you can get from a regular Stratocaster, its obvious Les
Pauls have a lot of un-tapped potential. Jimmy Page certainly thought so, and
he had four push/pull switches fitted in his 1960 Les Paul. The push/pulls
under the volume controls switch between regular humbucker and single coil
tones. The push/pull under the neck tone control is a series/parallel switch,
and the one under the bridge tone control switches the pickups in and out of
phase for Peter Green-style tones. If your pickups have vintage-style braided
wires, theyll need to be replaced with multicore wires for this mod.
NO CUT OUT MOD
The regular Les Paul wiring scheme means that the controls are somewhat
interactive. One of the oddities is the way that turning down one of the volume
controls kills both pickups when the pickup selector is in the middle setting.
Some players like it because you can do that stuttering staccato trick where
you hit a power chord and play it with the switch, but it drives other players
bananas. Fortunately its easy to de-couple the volume controls by wiring the
volume controls backwards; just follow the diagram. The downside of the mod
is more noticeable treble loss when you turn down the volume controls, so
treble bleed caps may be required. Try 330pF for starters.
Ground Wire To Bridge
EP-4367 Switchcraft
Switch
GW-0637
Braided Wire
Neck volume
Pull for single coil
Ring
Neck Tone
Pull for tones with bridge
.02 Capacitors
Tip
Green wire
EP 4286-000
EP 4286-000
White & Red wire

Bare wire
Neck Pickup
Bridge Tone
Pull for reverse phase
.02 Capacitors
Capacitor
White & Red wire
EP 4286-000
Black wire
Bridge Pickup
EP 4286-000
Green wire
Bare wire
Bridge Volume
Pull for single coil
EP 0055-xxx
Switchcraft Jack
Jimmy Page used a lot of trick wiring with his vintage Les Pauls for
out-of-phase and single-coil tones. A definitive schematic has yet to
emerge, but heres one that will effectively do the job.
15
If you would like your volume controls to be completely independent and

eliminate the cut out in the middle position, its a simple case of reversing
the input and output connections on the volume potentiometers.
NO-HOLE BIGSBY INSTALLATION
Filled holes in the tops of vintage Les Pauls are the

evidence of long-removed Bigsby vibratos. To
some a Les Paul with a Bigsby looks just as
incongruous as a Gretsch without one.
Nevertheless, we think Lesters look the nuts with a
Bigsby and you can now install Bigsbys on Les
Pauls without drilling any holes at all, thanks to a
company called Vibramate. A specially-designed
bracket attaches in place of the stop tailpiece to
16
Capacitor
secure the front of the Bigsby unit, and the strap

button screw clamps it at the back. This do-ityourself installation can be done within minutes, but
youll need a fresh set of strings too.
The Vibramate system allows you to fix a Bigsby

onto your Les Paul without drilling any holes
because it utilises the tailpiece studs and the
strap screw to hold the vibrato in place.
BRIDGE REPLACEMENT
Early 50s style Les Pauls and Les Paul Juniors had
wrap over tailpieces, so intonation can be
compromised. Fortunately wrap over replacement
bridges with adjustable intonation are readily
available. Vintage fans generally prefer ABR-1
style aluminium Tun-O-Matic bridges with brass
saddles to the later all-zinc Nashville bridges. They
can be swapped, but they require thumbwheel
posts with a different diameter. Browns Guitars
and Faber offer the necessary conversion posts. For

replacement wrap over bridges and ABR-1 replicas
try Wilkinson, Pigtail, Badass, Hipshot, Schaller,
Gotoh, Tone Pros, Callaham and Gibson too.
Trevor Wilkinsons take on the wrap-over

tailpiece is sleek and elegant. It has a movable
saddle for the B and G that gives you a much
better chance of achieving accurate intonation.
>
17
MULTI-POSITION SWITCH
Installing extra switches in Fenders was never a

cause for concern because if you changed your
mind, you could always buy a new pickguard to
replace the one you had perforated.
Understandably most Les Paul owners have
baulked at the idea of drilling holes in their
guitars, so the options for extra pickup
configurations have largely been confined to push/
pull and push/push switches so the recent

introduction of a six-way toggle switch that fits in
place of the regular three way is an exciting
development. Called the Free-Way Switch, it
provides Lester players with countless options.
Jimmy Page had one installed in the Les Paul Custom
he used for the Ahmet Ertegun tribute concert, and
theyre manufactured here in the UK.
18
ADDING VIBRATO
Key to the initial success of Paul Reed Smith has to

be his hybridisation of the Les Paul and the
Stratocaster, combining traditional Les Paul tones
and vibe with Stratocaster ergonomics and a
vintage-style trem that actually stayed in tune.
The timing was perfect for a generation grown
weary of day-glo Superstrats. Fortunately there
are now several types of vibrato that can be fitted
to Les Pauls without any necessity to drill extra
holes or make irreversible alterations. The
Schaller Tremolo Les Paul is considerably less
intrusive than the Floyd Rose FRX, but the market
leader seems to be the Stetsbar Stop Tail.
Lets face it, nobody in their right mind would

rout huge holes in the body of a Les Paul to
mount a Strat-style vibrato, and Bigsbys arent
for everybody. The Stetsbar has long been the
option for players who want to mount a proper
whammy bar on a Les Paul.
The six-way Free Way switch was recently introduced by the UKs NSF Controls. It means you can add
all kinds of options to your guitar without altering its appearance or making the controls too fiddly.
19
METAL JACK PLATE UPGRADE
If a pickup fails or you break a string, you will be

able to keep playing but if your guitar output
fails, youll find that a Les Paul is not an ideal
choice for an unplugged performance. Every
guitar design has its weak spots and the jack plate
is the Les Pauls because the slim plastic plate is
all too easy to snap. The solution is simple a
metal replacement. This is a cheap and reversible

modification but try to ensure the screw holes of the
new plate will line up with the old one before you hit
buy it now. The only tools required are a crosshead
screwdriver and something to tighten up the jack
nut. If you want to keep the original look, simply
install the plastic plate on top of the metal one.
If you wish to buy a metal jack plate, be sure to double-check that the screw holes will line up with
those of the original. If in doubt, contact the retailer for more information.
20
MAGNET SWAP
Various types of magnets are used in pickups, and

they all sound different. The most common
magnetic alloy is Alnico, and P90s and humbucker
pickups usually have Alnico II, III, IV or V. Powerful
ceramic magnets are also popular with rock
players who prefer high output with plenty of
brightness. If you want softer vintage tones, extra
brightness or higher output and more aggression,
its cheaper to swap magnets than swap pickups.
Humbuckers have one magnet and P90s have two,
so remove the cover (if necessary), loosen the
backplate and slide them out.
Pickup manufacturers may be reluctant to sell

you magnets, but suitable alternatives are
available from Stewart-MacDonald and
Sensmag Inc. Heres a rough-cast A4 magnet
being slid into position in a Shed PAF Daddy.
21
SETTING THE
PICKUP HEIGHT
Humbuckers have screws at both ends to allow you

to adjust the height of the pickups. Similarly,
soapbar P90s have two small screws passing
through the covers that do the same job. The
proximity of pickup coils to the strings has a
massive effect. Setting the pickups very high can
make them sound overly aggressive and
midrangey (the magnetic pull may even reduce
sustain). When pickups are set lower the tone can
be sweeter and more open, but they can sound
dull and unresponsive if set too low. To optimise
your tone the only tools you need are a
screwdriver and your ears. Take time to
experiment before buying a new set of pickups.
22
THE PETER GREEN MOD
During his time with Fleetwood Mac, Peter Greens

Les Paul had a very distinctive sound in the middle
position because the two pickups were out of
phase. There are two ways you can replicate this.
After removing the cover of one pickup (wed
suggest the neck), slacken off the baseplate, slide
out the magnet then flip it around (not over) to

reverse the magnetic polarity relative to the coil.
Tighten the base plate up, refit your cover if you use
one, and youre done. Alternatively you can flip the
phase electronically by reversing the hot and cold
connections. This can be hard-wired or switchable.
Ground
from pup
Hot from
Pickup
Hot output to
switch or jack
To
Ground
Pickup height is a vital ingredient of the fine art

of setting up a guitar. Many players dont
realise the huge effect it can often have, and go
chasing the latest, hippest pickups without first
making the most of the ones theyve got
If you dont want to remove the cover from your pickup, you can reverse its polarity electronically.
This can be done permanently or it can be linked to a switch to give you the option
23
24
REBUILDS
PAF REPLICAS
25
POT SWAP
It is widely acknowledged that some of Gibsons

current Historic Collection models are the finest
guitars they have made since the 1960s but some
owners want even more authenticity. A company
called Historic Makeovers offers various
packages that include nitro refins with aniline
dyes, authentic fading, relicing, neck reshaping,
top re-carving and celluloid inlay replacement.
Optional extras include Brazilian rosewood
boards, trussrod replacement, Royalite rebinding,
neck re-setting and nylon nut replacement. Prices
start from $2015 and customers supply their own
guitars. Converting early 50s Les Pauls to late
50s specs has also become popular of late the
premise being that the tone is in the old wood.
A desire to recreate the looks and tones of late

1950s models seems to inspire the vast majority of
upgrades, and success is largely dependent on the
pickups. Unfortunately, PAFs seem to be the
hardest pickups to get right. Certain key
ingredients are well understood, and these include
plain enamel magnet wire, butyrate bobbins,
maple spacers and 2.5" magnets. Leaving the coils
unpotted is vital too, but the real voodoo part
involves getting the tension of the winding exactly
correct and knowing how much to offset the coils.
There are a handful of manufacturers whose PAF
replicas are pretty spot-on, but be warned that the
truly authentic tone of PAFs doesnt always
conform to expectations.
The value of volume pots does have an effect on

the sound of guitars. As a rule of thumb,
lower-value pots equate to reduced treble
(Fender use 250K pots to sweeten up their
single coils). 500K was always the stock value
for volume and tone controls in Gibsons, but
many Les Pauls are fitted with 300K volume
pots and some have 100K tone pots. If your LP
sounds too dull and dark, measure the volume
pots and install 500K replacements if 300Ks
are fitted. Conversely, 300K pots will help to
smooth out over-bright trebles. Some players
find the balance they like with a 500K pot for
the neck pickup and 300K for the bridge. CTS
pots cost around 5 so its cheap to experiment.
Buying a high-end Gibson Les Paul reissue then

sending it to Historic Makeovers to have it
stripped, dismantled, rebuilt and refinished is
not inexpensive, but its a lot cheaper than a
real 50s Les Paul. Heres a specially treated R9.
By and large, replica PAF builders have proved

more adept at recreating the look than the
tone but, even so, there are a select few that
have managed to nail both. Heres a real 50s
PAF with that iconic decal.
You can buy control pots from suppliers like

Allparts UK, but make sure the shafts are long
enough for an arch-top Les Paul. Alternatively,
check out pre-wired control assemblies from
companies like Emerson Custom Guitars.
WORKSHOP 25 Strat mods
Stratocaster
Fiesta
How can you improve a guitar thats

been described as already close to
perfection? HUW PRICE has 25 ways
to make your Fender Strat play
and sound better than ever
before and some of them
hardly cost a bean
25 Strat mods WORKSHOP
here was a time when vintage

Fenders were thought to sound
superior to newer ones simply
because they were old, and most
players were content to leave
it at that. As the prices of vintage
Fenders went stratospheric, the guitar
community began to ask why the old
ones sounded different. Could those
characteristics be replicated with newer
instruments?.
Well, maybe, yes. It became
apparent that various changes had
been made to Fenders manufacturing
methods and materials. In retrospect,
1965 was not year zero for Fender
because these changes occurred
gradually even if most were instigated
by CBS bean-counters.
Pickups and woods have been
subjected to close scrutiny, but only
now are players becoming aware of
the significance of seemingly minor
electronic components, plus bridge

blocks, saddles and nut materials. And
its not all about vintage tone; a proper
understanding of the way the component
parts fit into the formula will help you
to make informed decisions about
the modifications that will make your
Stratocaster play and sound the way
actually you want it to.
The purpose of this Guitar & Bass
article is not to list all the fabulous
aftermarket accessories and relicd
plastics that you can solder into or screw
onto your Fender Strat. The emphasis is
on optimising the basic instrument, and
many of these modifications wont cost
you a thing. Others are relatively cheap,
and wed advise you to investigate all
the options before spending big money
on exotic parts because with a few
judicious tweaks, a bit of basic wiring
and some routine maintenance, that
old Strat may yet surprise you.
>
1 BLOCK THE BLOCK
Some Strat players never use the vibrato Robert

Cray and Billy Gibbons prefer hardtail Strats but
most consider the springs to be an essential
component of the guitars sound. So how can you
have a trem-loaded Strat that you can be tuned up
in a single pass and wont go out of tune when you
snap a string? Simple: tighten the spring claw,
place a lump of wood between the bridge block
and the back of the trem rout, and slacken off the
claw to allow string tension to wedge it in place.
Its simple, its cheap, and it works. Just ask Eric.
All guitars with single-coil pickups are prone to

picking up noises, and Stratocasters will buzz and
hum depending on the environment. Fortunately,
there are ways to quiet things down. The simplest
is to fit a RWRP pickup in the middle position, but
this will only hum-cancel in positions 2 and 4.
Some advocate lining the pickup and control routs
with copper foil. Allparts sell sticky-backed
BEAT THE BUZZ

copper, but you have to join all the edges with solder
because the adhesive is non-conductive. Many pro
players have installed dummy coils, and they
feature in some Suhr models; you can remove the
bar magnet from the underside of a cheap pickup
and use it as a dummy coil. Ultimately, though, the
only sure-fire way to silence a Strat is to install
noiseless pickups such as Lace Sensors or Kinmans.
Not a trem fan? Using five springs, tightening

the spring claw and wedging a piece of wood
behind the block will give you hardtail tuning
stability with spring-loaded tone.
BRIDGE TONE CONTROL
Many have wondered why Fender chose to provide

tone controls for the neck and middle pickups but
neglected to provide treble roll-off for the pickup
that actually needed it most. Its easy to remedy
this oversight, and if you can solder, it shouldnt
cost a thing. Method 1 is to swap the middle (or
neck) pickups tone control to the bridge pickup;
method 2 is to add a jumper wire so the bridge
pickup can share one of the other tone controls.
Problem solved.
The suggested position for a dummy coil connected to a regular Strat circuit with an in/out switch.
CAPACITOR VALUE
Pickup upgrades are often an attempt to sweeten

the sound, but most of us overlook the tone
capacitor. Fender initially installed 0.1uF caps
firstly paper/oil types, then later ceramic discs.
Around 1964 the cap value was changed to
0.047uF. Treble is always lost through tone
circuits even when theyre supposedly off so
the capacitor value is significant. A Strat will
sound brighter with a 0.047uF cap than a 0.1uF. If
youre chasing vintage tone its worth spending
20p on a 0.1uF capacitor before spending 200 on
a set of pickups. If you want your Strat to sound
brighter, try a 0.022uF cap.
To connect the bridge pickup to a tone control,

most modders move the middle tone control
connection over or use a jumper for the bridge
pickup to share the middle tone control.
This is a reproduction of Fenders original

paper/oil 0.1uF capacitor. The treble will sound
vintage-correct with this value or you can fit a
0.047uF or a 0.022uF for extra brightness.
DAN ARMSTRONG WIRING
Dan Armstrong Wiring
Dan Armstrong devised a parallel/series wiring

mod for Strats that uses the middle tone control
as a blender/mixer. With the blend control at 10,
you get all five regular pickup settings. When its
rolled fully back you get a H/S/H configuration
the middle pickup combining in series with the
neck and bridge in the front and back positions.
These pseudo-humbucker settings are fatter and

louder while settings 2 and 4 are genuinely out of
phase. You can explore semi-series and semi-out of
phase tones as well, because theres a blender
rather than a switch. The new layout is simple to
operate and if youre content with master volume
and tone, its a great way to use that spare control.
Output
HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
The term Stratitus is used to describe the

odd-sounding tuning anomalies many Strats
exhibit on the low E string as you play above the
12th fret. This is caused by excessive magnetic pull
from the pickups inhibiting string vibration, and
pickups that are set high will make things worse.
Dont assume that your Strat came out of the
factory adjusted to perfection the proximity of
the coils to the strings has a significant effect on
tone. Set the pickups high and theyll make your
Strat sound bright, loud and aggressive; set them
lower and the tone should open up, with sweeter
trebles and more dynamic response. Set them too
low, and your Strat will sound dull and lifeless. All
three pickups have height-adjustment screws and
theyre there to optimise tone and balance the
levels of the pickups. Let your ears guide you.
This Dan Armstrong mod provides four extra tones, with pseudo-humbuckers in the neck and bridge.
It sounds fantastic, its easy to use, and your guitars appearance remains unchanged.
The pickup height adjustment screws are there

to be used. If youre nervous about doing this,
attaching a small piece of masking tape to the
ends of each cover and marking the pickguard
level with a pencil will allow you to return
easily to your original settings.
SWINGING ARMS
Over time vibrato arms can become loose. If they

develop too much play then they rattle back and
forth when you use them, causing noise and
making it harder to achieve a smooth vibrato and
you can certainly forget about Jeff Beck levels of
precision. There are a couple of tried and trusted
remedies, though. Some players like to drop a
small spring into the bottom of the arm hole in the
block so that as the arm is tightened it presses

against the spring and feels a bit more stable.
Another popular fix is to wrap PTFE tape around the
arm thread. You can buy this tape from plumbers
merchants and its very cheap which is just as well,
because the tape will need to be refreshed every so
often. For a more permanent solution, check out the
innovative trem arm from the UKs Staytrem.
Some well-placed tape can tame a loose tremolo arm but youll need to replace it often.
INDUCTANCE PLATE
Turning Telecasters into Tele/Strat hybrids is

common enough, but fewer players have
attempted to Tele-ise their Strats with a
replacement bridge pickup Lowell George being
an honourable exception. These days its a cheap
and easy mod that requires a metal inductance
plate to be attached to the underside of a regular
Strat bridge pickup. These can fatten, focus and
generally beef up your bridge pickup tone. Steel
plates sound different to copper and so forth, so
do some research beforehand to decide what
appeals to you. Suppliers include Fralin, Shed
Pickups, Singlecoil.com and Oil City.
An inductance plate will make your Strats

bridge pickup sound more like a typical
Telecaster. Theyre cheap and easy to install.
>
10
LUBRICATION
Friction is the enemy of stable tuning. This has

been well understood for decades, and excellent
results are achievable with traditional petroleum
jelly and graphite from soft pencils. Other DIY
solutions include silicon grease, Chapstick and O
ring grease, while specialist guitar products
include Big Bends Nut Sauce, Graphit All and many
more. Although they all do much the same job, the
guitar products are designed for accurate
and mess-free application. Potential
sticking points include nut slots, the
point where the strings contact the
saddles and beneath the string
trees. Lube up as part of your
string-changing routine.
MASTER TONE CONTROL
Strat players have long struggled with over-bright

bridge pickups, prompting aftermarket pickup
makers to devise balanced sets. Many deliver,
but the underlying cause is not addressed. Stock
Strat pickups are balanced, but the stock circuit
isnt, as only the neck and middle pickups bleed
treble through the tone circuit. Changing to a
master tone arrangement is a simple modification
that balances the treble response of the pickups

and frees up the second tone control for trick wiring.
If you connect the master tone control to the output
(centre) tag of volume control rather than the input,
the ratio of guitar signal to treble bleed remains
consistent regardless of the position of the volume
knob. Many find it renders treble bleed capacitors
superfluous and you can try it on your Tele too.
Neck hot wire

Middle hot wire
Bridge hot wire
Ground wires from all pickups

Volume
250K
CRL
Switch
Tone
250k
Big Bends Nut Sauce is a

popular guitar lubricant. The
syringe and micro brush make it
simple to apply and it might help
to keep tuning solid.
11
Disconnect the middle tone control from the

circuit altogether and connect the neck tone
control directly to the input or output tag of
the volume control.
12
THE MEMPHIS WIRING TRICK
In the days of three-way switches, players were

aware of the Strats in-between settings but it was
hard to make the switch stay put. Here, the middle
pickup is disconnected from the volume control
and the switch, leaving a Tele-type neck/both/
bridge arrangement with master volume and tone
Neck
Middle
Bridge
Output jack
controls. The spare tone control becomes the middle

pickups volume. You can still have all your regular
Strat settings plus all three pickups in parallel and a
great sounding neck/bridge combination. Its known
as Memphis Wiring because this was the preferred
configuration of Sun Records legend Roland Janes.
With Memphis wiring, the neck and bridge

pickups are connected to a three-way switch
and the middle pickup fades in and out with
its own volume control.
NUT JOB
Friction is the cause of most tuning problems,

and rough nut slots are a common source of
friction. Listen for clicks and pings from the
headstock area as you tune up. Budget Strats
often come with plastic nuts, which arent good
for tone or tuning; why not consider upgrading
to bone or a self-lubricating graphite nut from
Graphtec? Trem king Jeff Beck prefers a roller
nut, but standard nut slots must be altered to fit
one. If you already have a bone nut, try
wrapping a length of string with 1200 grit wet
and dry paper and smoothing the slots. After
protecting rosewood fingerboards with masking
tape, buff the nut and slots with chrome polish.
Ground Wire
Ring
Output jack
0K
Tip
50
3-Way Switching:
Main
Volume
1. Bridge
2. Neck & Bridge
3. Neck
Middle
Volume
0K
50
Main Volume controls the

output of the 3-way switch
Tele 3-Way Switch
0K
Tone
25
Middle Volume controls the

output of the Middle Pickup
Roller nuts are popular with heavy vibrato

users because they provide a friction-free
ride. The drawback is that in order to fit
one, the nut slot will need to be widened.
13
14
OUT OF PHASE SWITCHING
Although the in-between settings are often

referred to as out of phase, its really two pickup
coils working together in series. Theres a degree
of phase shift because theyre picking up string
vibrations from different areas of the string, but
the pickups are actually in phase electronically.
True out of phase switching means reversing the
positive and negative connections of one pickup.

Individually the pickups will sound the same, but in
combination the thinner, scratchier, honkier sound
is useful for getting clean sounds high in a mix
without eating up too much frequency space. Its a
tone heard on funk and old Motown records, and it
can be brutally lo-fi through a fuzzbox.
This diagram shows how a push/

pull or push/push switch can be
wired for phase reversal.
Single-coil sized dual rail pickups such as

DiMarzios Air Norton S solve hum problems
and boost output, without extra routing.
Hot output
of pup,
possibly to
switch
To
Ground
NECK POCKET CLEANUP
To resonate together as one, the body and neck of

a guitar should be coupled as tightly as possible.
Wood-to-wood contact is ideal but this isnt the
way things generally turn out. Pop the neck off
most Strats and youll often find various horrors in
the pocket. A shim is often needed to achieve an
optimal neck angle, and its accepted practice, but
We believe a pickup upgrade can provide the

biggest improvement of all, but it shouldnt be
regarded as a cure-all there are easier and
cheaper upgrades that you should perform first.
Vintage tone enthusiasts may want scatterwound
coils and they should check out the various types
of alnico and slug staggers Fender used in
different eras. Formvar magnet wire was used
prior to the CBS takeover and plain enamel
thereafter. All these things make a difference. Hot
wound single coils and drop-in humbuckers with
coils in stacked and side-by-side configurations
will make your Strat far more powerful. Drop-in
P90 soundalikes are also available, as are
low-output Danelectro-style lipsticks.
Ground
from pup,
probably
red or black
Hot from
Pickup,
probably
white
15
PICKUP UPGRADES
rubber grommets, cardboard and scraps of

sandpaper are not ideal. Try a sliver of hardwood
veneer if you need to shim. Many necks have labels
and stickers in between the screw holes. Peel them
off and clean up any residual stickiness. If youre
spraying a body, consider masking of the neck
pocket so the wood remains exposed.
We recently found this plastic cut-off in the neck pocket of a Strat. Needless to say it was binned.
16 PUSH-PUSH SWITCHES
Push-pull switches a switch box combined with a

potentiometer in a single unit have been around
for a long time. The control knob works
conventionally but it can be pulled up or pushed
down to use the switch mechanism. The switch can
perform any number of functions, some of which
are detailed in this article. The problem for Strat
players is that stock tapered knobs are not easy to
grip and you cant get your fingertips underneath
if they are tight against the scratchplate. The
solution is simple fit a push-push switch instead,
so you push down to switch on, and push down
again to switch off. Its fast, effective and means
you dont need to drill holes in your pickguard.
This push/push switch is mounted on a pot

casing. The standard value for Strats is 250K.
>
17
SADDLES
Most of the changes that were instigated at Fender

by the CBS management were intended to reduce
costs rather than make real improvements. Like
many other components, the quality of string
saddles fell when a cheap alloy nicknamed
monkey metal replaced the bent steel. For
vintage tone, steel saddles may provide a
noticeable improvement; other popular choices
include stainless steel, bass and titanium. Heavy
trem users may wish to investigate roller saddles,
or Graphtecs. They all have different tone and
sustain characteristics, so do your research and
make sure the saddles you choose are compatible
with your Strats string spacing.
18
ADDING A SHIELDING PLATE
This is something we discovered by accident while

trying to replicate the huge, warm tones of a
genuine 63 Strat with an 83 Tokai Goldstar.
Acoustically there was little to choose between
them, but despite trying various sets of pickups
and correcting the tone cap, the sound wasnt
quite there. By chance we had an aluminium
shielding plate hanging around just like the ones

Fender used between 1959 and 1967. On a whim we
fitted the shielding plate and the midrange acquired
a thicker, chewier and sweeter vintage loveliness.
We cant offer a scientific explanation but if youre
chasing SRV tone, a 10 aluminium shielding plate
should be the first item on your shopping list.
There are countless options for upgrading Strat

saddles. These Graphtecs have built-in piezo
pickups that are intended to provide
Stratocasters with an acoustic option. Pete
Townshend is known for using these.
A 1960s-style aluminium shielding plate does influence the sound of a Stratocaster. Try one before
buying an expensive set of handwound pickups.
19
20
SHIM THE TREE
This may help your Strat to stay in tune a little

better. In lieu of an angled headstock, Fender use
string trees to achieve the necessary break angle
over the nut. We have noticed plenty of Strats with
string trees screwed flat to the front of the
headstock, making the break angle greater than it
needs to be and increasing friction under the tree
itself. Put a spacer under the string tree to reduce
the angle and straighten the string path between
the nut and the tuners thats what Fender always
did. Alternatively you can bypass the string tree
completely and achieve the necessary break angle
by winding the B and E strings all the way down to
the bottom of the tuner post.
The string tree on the left is shimmed, while the

one on the right is flat to the board. Wed
recommend shimming both in order to reduce
friction and avoid tuning issues.
SPRING COVER REMOVAL
This one is a source of contention because some

claim to hear the effect of a removed spring cover
while others cant hear any change at all and
even the advocates admit it only works on some
Strats. Either way, its free and totally reversible.
Simply unscrew the six screws holding the spring
cover onto the back of the body and remove it. If

your guitar sounds more resonant and responsive,
then congratulations on completing a successful
upgrade. Youll probably find string changing a lot
easier too. If your guitar sounds just the same, feel
free to put the cover back on.
Some claim to hear a difference when they remove the spring cover; others dont. Its worth a try.
21
STEEL TREM BLOCKS
Fender originally used 10oz cold rolled steel

(CRS-1018) blocks with shallow holes for the ball
ends, and these are generally regarded as being
effective tone enhancers. Use a magnet to test if
your block is steel if the magnet falls off, it isnt.
Callahams vintage-spec blocks are excellent but
expensive in the UK. Domestic equivalents are
available from Wudtone, and Kevin Hurley sells his
blocks on eBay, both relicd and non-relicd and in
narrow and wide spacing. With either of these, you
should get extra brightness, definition and sustain.
Even if you dont plan to change your block, its
worth popping off the bridge plate to scrape off
any paint that may be applied to the top.
22
STRING OUTER-SPACING
Many players experience a problem with their E

strings slipping off the fingerboard when they
apply finger vibrato. On old guitars this can occur
because the neck has become worn through years
of playing or overly aggressive fretwork, but some
contemporary Strats like the Yngwie Malmsteen
signature model exhibit the very same problem.
The Callaham V/N bridge is useful in combatting
this as it combines a vintage-spec 2 7/32" screw

spacing with modern 2 1/16" string spacing. Its a
drop-in replacement for vintage-spec Strats, and it
cures slippage by moving the E strings further
towards the centre of the fingerboard. Bent steel
saddles and a cold rolled steel block come as part of
the package, and the narrower spacing might also
be a better match for Strats with humbuckers.
This cold rolled steel Hurley relic trem block

weighs a vintage-correct 10oz. It was made in
the UK, and at a shade under 30 its less than
half the price of some American made blocks.
Callaham make very high-end hardware and this Vintage/Narrow bridge has modern string spacing
with vintage-style pivot screw spacing to prevent E strings from slipping off the fingerboard.
23
24
TIGHTENING THE
NECK JOINT
If a guitars neck is loose in its pocket, then it will

be less effective at transferring vibrations. On top
of that, the neck may actually move around,
causing tuning instability and string slippage. On
occasion you can see a gap between the bottom of
the neck and the neck pocket, even when the
screws are fully tightened. Assuming theres no
shim, this could be because the screw holes in the
body are too narrow for the screws. If you cant
push the plate screws straight through the body
holes, you should have them drilled out to
increase their diameter. Many builders experience
this issue with replacement bodies.
If your Strats neck screws appear to be fully

tightened but theres still a gap visible between
the body and the neck, it requires some
attention. Assuming theres no shim, there
should be no gap whatsoever.
TREBLE BLEED
Does your tone get dull when you turn down? If so,
try soldering a capacitor between the input and
output terminals of the volume pot. When the
volume control is fully up, the cap is bypassed, but
when you turn down, the cap allows some of the
high frequency content to bypass the volume pot
and go straight through to the output. Suitable
capacitor types include ceramic disc, film and
silver mica. Be careful, as if the capacitor value is
too high, you may experience some excessive
brightness as you back off. Some suggest a 130K
resistor in series with the cap to reduce the treble
bleed or a 100K resistor in parallel with the cap to
modify the pot taper. Begin with a 1000pF, and be
prepared to experiment.
A treble bleed cap helps brightness

when you turn down your volume.
Some use a cap on its own; others
prefer a resistor in series or as
shown here in parallel with the cap.
25
TUNE YOUR TREM
Leo Fender and his team intended the Strat

vibrato to be a floating unit, where the spring
tension balances out the pull from the strings.
There are no hard and fast rules about setting
these up, because all players require different
feels. Some require no upward movement, but
most prefer to be able to vibrato above and
below pitch. Tightening and loosening the claw
screws fine-tunes the trem response, and it can
be done with surprising precision. Carl
Verhayen tunes his trems so the G, B and E
strings pull up a minor third, a tone and a
semitone respectively. It sounds very musical
and its surprisingly easy to set up.
This spring claw is intentionally angled because

it has been adjusted to provide precise
intervals when the bar is pulled up.
WORKSHOP Fretboard hygiene
FRETBOARD WORKSHOP
KEEP IT CLEAN
Are you suffering from gunk? We lift the lid on one of the
shameful secrets of the guitar world, fingerboard hygiene.
ake a look at the fingerboard

on your guitar. Can you see a
row of six elliptical mounds of
grime between the frets? Tish,
you ought to be ashamed of
yourself. What on earth produced
this muck? Well, you, basically.
No matter how clean you think
your hands are, grease and sweat
from those digits will eventually be
compressed onto your fingerboard.
Of course there can be more
contributing factors, namely beer,
nicotine, sandwiches.
The resultant effects of dirty
strings are all too familiar: dull
notes, poor intonation and that
general my-strings-are-cheesewire
feeling. But before abandoning
your playing to set up as a free
cutting service for Monsieur
Camemberts Cave du Fromage,
take heart: this can be avoided (or
at least reduced). Set aside a one-off
hour-long session to clean your
fingerboard, and get into the habit
of preventative measures.
But first things first. Remove all
the strings and throw them away.
On guitars with fulcrum vibratos
(Fender vintage, unrecessed Floyd
Rose, Wilkinson, etc) place some
thick card, a few business cards or
plastic credit cards (expired only),
or the vibratos backplate under the
back of the vibrato this will stop
it being pulled back by the springs
when you remove the strings.
The fingerboard
The most common types of
timbers used for fingerboards are
1 Rosewood (top) and

maple fingerboards
2 Tape that razor blade
very carefully
rosewood, maple and ebony 1 .

The rosewood and ebony boards
are usually unfinished (although
a light oil can be applied for some
moisture protection and to enhance
the condition of the wood) while
maple is typically more heavily
protected by a clear or tinted finish.
Finished fingerboards
There are different methods of
cleaning the different types, so lets
start with the finished fingerboard,
which is usually made of maple.
You may have read articles or
books encouraging you to use
soap and water to clean the grime
which collects between frets. Ive
witnessed the effects of water on
wood and modern finishes its not
advised. White spirit applied with a
soft rag is much safer, as it dissolves
grease and softens dirt with no
danger of damaging the fingerboard
or finish. Ball up the cloth into
a small pad and dip it into the
white spirit. Using small circular
motions, you should find that all
the dirt lifts straight off the lacquer.
The most difficult area to clean will
be on the very edges of the frets. A
cocktail stick with a piece of cloth
on the end will get into the tightest
of corners.
Theres a good chance that, if the
fingerboard is dirty, the frets will
be tarnished. You can kill two birds
with one stone at this point, as both
the frets and the fingerboard can
be polished in one hit, with Brasso.
This product is not like other liquid
abrasives; its cutting abilities are
aided by ammonia, which makes

it perfect for polishing metals and
modern plastic finishes. Apply the
Brasso onto a soft cloth and rub the
entire top surface of the fingerboard
in line with the frets, not along
the length of the neck. Obviously,
the harder you rub, the shinier your
frets will be. Always finish off with
a quick wipe from a clean cloth.
When you are satisfied, restring and
set up the instrument.
Unfinished fingerboards
Working on these is a little more
involved. To achieve that factory
look on your frets and fingerboard,
you may need to go shopping first.
Youll need
Masking tape (insulation tape is not the
same thing)
600 and 1200 grit wet and dry paper
A straight razor blade (double or
single-edged type)
OOOO wire wool (thats very fine)
A small bottle of fingerboard oil
With the exception of the oil,

youll get all of this at a high-street
auto store. Single-edged backed
razor bladesshould be available
from an automotive paint supplier.
If you cant get those, standard
double-edged blades are fine,
although you must wrap sufficient
masking tape around one edge 2 .
This is not only a safety precaution:
it allows you to identify the edge
that was last used. The doubleedged blade will feel more flexible
and may well be more suitable for
beginners trying this method for
Fretboard hygiene WORKSHOP
3 Using the blade to scrape

the face of the fingerboard
4 Taping up the board with

masking tape
5 Polishing frets with wet
and dry
6 Final polish with 0000
steel wool
7 Remove the masking tape
from the ends inwards
the first time. As to the fingerboard

oil, we recommend Mansons
Fingerboard Oil, a lemon oil-based
preparation which works very well,
and the small bottle will last a very,
very long time. Alternately look
for almond oil (in the ingredients
section of your supermarket).
On this type of fingerboard,
you should take the precaution of
taping up the areas of the guitar
which could be marked in some
way. The headstock, pickups, and
the portion of the body around the
neck joint are favourite targets for
over-enthusiastic polishing.
Now take the razor blade in
hand; the idea is to use it as a
miniature scraper. But first, a
word of warning: some guitar
manufacturers would have you
believe that your fingerboard
really is either rosewood or ebony.
Imagine that sinking feeling as you
scrape off a top layer of coloured
dye to reveal a very much lighter
coloured wood underneath. If
youre not sure whether your board
is pukka, always get a second
opinion. Alternatively, scrape a little
right behind the highest fret, rather
than anywhere more important,
to see if the colour changes
dramatically.
Take the blade between the
thumb and forefinger of both
hands 3 , and hold it at roughly
80 degrees to the fingerboard
surface. Remember, as you scrape
back and forth between the frets
(with the grain), you are merely
trying to remove the dirt from the
fingerboard. It doesnt take a genius
to realise that there is a risk of
scalloping the board if you press too
hard. Ill repeat that: think about
what you are doing. Dont worry if

the fingerboard has any inlays of
pearl or some other material. So
long as the blade is sharp, it will
deal with them.
By now, you may be horrified
at what youve just done. Dont
panic. All those wood shavings will
soon be a vague memory. Take the
OOOO wire wool and rub furiously
along the length of the fingerboard,
frets included. I know what youre
thinking, trust me.
At this point, the wire wool will
have cleaned away any debris which
may have been compacted along
the length of the frets. You will also
be aware that the frets now have
a matte finish, thanks to tens of
thousands of tiny scratches.
Wipe the board down with a
clean cloth. It will make you feel
better. Take the masking tape and,
very carefully, mask the fingerboard
4 so that only the frets are showing.
This will mean that once you get as
far as the 8th or 9th fret, you will
have to start cutting the tape in half
in order to keep things neat.
Using an old pair of scissors, or
the edge of a work surface, cut two
or three 50mm squares of 600 grit
wet and dry paper 5 . This will be
plenty. Wrap the square around
your finger and rub along the
length of each and every fret. Only
move onto the next fret when all of
the scratches left by the wire wool
have disappeared.
Fingers sore? I have news for
you. Do exactly the same thing now
with the 1200 wet and dry. Dont
skimp. If you have knowingly left
scratches, you will feel them later
when you bend strings.
Now its time to get the wire
8 Final buffing with

fingerboard oil
wool out again. The fine OOOO

grade will remove any traces of
the 1200 grit wet and dry paper,
and will leave the frets looking like
chrome 6 , and you will probably
feel quite pleased with yourself.
Its crucial, however, that you dont
get too carried away. The next part,
although extremely straightforward,
needs patience.
The masking tape must now be
removed 7 , but you have to lift
the two ends towards the centre.
This method prevents the lacquer
on the edge of the fingerboard from
chipping off.
The worst is now over. Wash your
hands and find a clean, soft cloth.
Put a few drops of the fingerboard
oil onto the cloth 8 , and wipe well
into the grain of the fingerboard.
Turn the cloth over and buff the
whole neck. Its vital to remove the
excess oil as, although it protects
the fingerboard, it can actually
cause the strings to deteriorate.
Wait half an hour or so for the area
to dry, give it a final buff with an
oil-free cloth, and re-string.
Follow these instructions and
chances are that youll have a neck
thats better now than it was when
the guitar was made, as most
manufacturers cannot afford the
time for such luxuries. So what can
you do to keep it looking that way?
Keep a small towel or cloth in your
case or gigbag so that you can give
your hands a wipe before, and the
strings a wipe after youve played.
Fastfret and other cleaning and
lubrication products are fine but
keep it clean in the first place and
youll find your strings last longer.
Keep it clean, and clean it often
you know it makes sense.
WORKSHOP Refinishing
The guitar as it was before

we started and right - the
finished article
DIY WORKSHOP
REFINISHING YOUR GUITAR

This 1990 Japanese-made Ibanez RG550, originally metallic red, was badly
damaged in a bizarre plumbing incident. What better subject for a complete
transformation? HUW PRICE rolls up his sleeves and gets to work
Refinishing WORKSHOP
fter this Ibanez was waterdamaged the owner chose

to cover the body with sticky
transfer sheets, but they
crinkled up badly under the
clear lacquer top coats. We decided
on a complete make-over, adding
a bookmatched maple veneer top
with a trans black finish to restore
this shredder to its former glory..
STAGE 1
Stripping the body
The guitars owner, Roger, had
already done most of the work
when he used a heat gun to
remove the original poly for the
first refinish. We peeled off the
transfer and hit the white paint with
stripper, but since the plan was to
add a veneer and we needed a clean
gluing surface, we put the whole
body through the flat sander at our
local woodworking shop. On the
back, we took off just enough to get
rid of the paint; the top lost 1.5mm
to compensate for the thickness
of the veneer. This left a sharp
line where the chamfer met the
top surface 2 , a problem when
it comes to folding a veneer, so we
used a plane followed by a sanding
block to reinstate the curve 3 .
STAGE 2
Preparing the top veneer
David Dyke (www.luthierssupplies.
co.uk) came up trumps with the
bookmatched veneer they sent for
the body and at 3mm thick it
was about the same as an acoustic
guitar top. We had to join the two

pieces together. They were placed
on top of each other, edges closely
aligned, then clamped to a shooting
board (you can make a shooting
board from two pieces of MDF;
see 4 . A block plane will remove
wafer-thin shavings from both
edges simultaneously until both
are straight and true. To test the
joint, place the edges together, hold
them against a window pane, and
look for any daylight. This is called
candling. Keep working with plane
and shooting board until not a
speck of daylight shows through.
You dont need any specialist
tools to glue the veneer halves
together just a flat board, some
small nails and some heavy
weights. Place the pieces with joint
edges together and something
under each end to hold the joint a
few centimetres above the board
like a shallow roof. Draw along the
outer edges with a pencil, remove
the veneer pieces, then hammer
in a nail every few centimetres
along the outside pencil lines. Place
the two pieces back on the board
with the outside edges butted up
against the nails, and apply wood
glue all along one edge. Press the
centre edges flat against the board,
allowing the nails to push the joint
together. Place a long, flat piece of
wood all along the joint, and put
heavy weights on top. Make sure
you apply plastic packing tape to
the backing board and the piece of
wood supporting the weights; some
glue will squeeze-out, but wood

glue wont stick to plastic 5 .
On a flat-bodied guitar the 3mmthick veneer would have been fine,
but its too thick to bend around the
body chamfer, so it was back to the
woodworking shop to sand it down
to 1.2mm.
STAGE 3
Veneering the top
Obviously our join had to run up
the centre line of the guitar, but
we have options regarding which
areas of grain to use. You can cut
the body shape out of a piece of
paper and place it over the veneer to
help visualise the end result, then
draw around the cutout to mark the
shape of the body 6 . Now cut out
the body shape with a craft knife,
leaving 5mm around the edge for
safety. This allows you to get your
clamps close to the edge of the body,
and cuts down on trimming later.
When gluing veneers its
important to spread the pressure
across the entire surface, so I cut two
clamping cauls out of scrap plywood,
just a bit larger than the body. This
makes clamping much easier and
protects the body from the clamps.
For the top chamfer, we cut the
veneer diagonally across the starting
point of the chamfer curve then held
it down with gaffer tape (masking
tape isnt grippy enough for the job).
Using gaffer tape is a bit risky, but
no grain was lifted 7 .
For gluing the veneer, we
decided not to use Titebond,
>
1 The clear gloss top coat

made the sticky backed plastic
crinkle up. Action is needed!
2 Body preparation: the
thickness sander left a rather
sharp line along the body
chamfer
3 The chamfer edge was
smoothed over to allow the
veneer to bend over it nicely
4 Shooting board: two
lengths of MDF stuck on top of
another to create a step
5 The veneer halves are
glued on a clamping board.
Note nails on the outside
edges
6 Using a paper template
helped us decide which section
of the veneer to use
WORKSHOP Refinishing
which hasnt always been too

successful for us on this kind of job
in the past, but Humbrol Cascamite
actually urea formaldehyde glue,
just like the stuff Gibson used
to attach maple tops on Les Paul
bodies in the 50s. This comes
in powder form which is mixed
with water, and unlike Titebond, it
doesnt go off too quickly.
STAGE 4
Trimming the veneer
7 Clamping cauls for front

and back protect the body and
distribute the pressure
8 The edges and routs were
trimmed flush using a craft
knife and sanding blocks
9 Sanding the finish off the
front of the head. The black
areas reveal the low spots
10 The work has paid off, and
our Ibanezs headstock is now
ready for veneering
11 The headstock veneer
is glued in place. Too many
clamps is just about enough!
12 Heres the headstock
veneer glued in place and dry
and ready for edge trimming
A pro luthier might use a router to

trim the edges of the veneer, but in
our workshop articles we like to use
non-specialist tools. Itll take you
a while to trim the body edges and
the pickup and bridge routs using
a craft knife, but its quite possible.
Make sure youve got plenty of fresh
blades, and watch those fingers!
Next, use a sanding block to true up
the sides and round over the edges
of the body and the routs.
To reinstate the holes for the
knobs and switch, place the body
face-down on a piece of plywood and
drill through the centre of each hole
with your thinnest drill bit. Use the
original holes in the control cavity
to guide you, then flip the body over
and use these pilot holes for larger
bradawl bits. I was able to drill the
switch screw holes to size straight
off, but had to use a reamer to widen
the holes for the pot shafts to the
correct diameter. For the switch slot
I drilled undersized holes all the
way along its length then cut out the
wood between the holes with a craft
knife, then used a small file to true

up the edges of the slot 8 .
STAGE 5
Veneering the headstock
A matching maple headstock veneer
would give this guitar a real touch
of class; sadly the old refinish had
left the front surface uneven and
rounded towards the edges. Rather
than use paint stripper, we began to
sand off the gloss black using a flat
sanding block. As the wood started
to show it was easy to see the low
spots 9 , so the sanding continued
until the black had almost
disappeared. This reduced the depth
of the ledge that the locking nut sits
on, but that depth will return when
the veneer is applied 10 .
David Dyke provided a nice piece
of maple veneer and once again we
placed a cutout template over it to
find the area of grain that worked
best for the shape. Again, its best
to draw the outline onto the veneer
and cut out the shape leaving 5mm
extra all around the edge.
Next we made two clamping
cauls, roughly the same shape as
the headstock, from a scrap piece
of plywood. Our headstock wasnt
quite flat, so I stuck a piece of cork
tile to the underside of the top caul
using double-sided carpet tape,
hoping that this softer material
combined with clamping pressure
would conform to any curves.
With Cascamite glue applied,
the cauls were positioned and
the G clamps tightened 11 . The
10
11
12
headstock was left overnight, and

when the clamps came off the result
was just about perfect. The next task
was to carefully true up the edges
using a craft knife and a sanding
block, then re-establish the locking
nut ledge using a mini sanding
block made from a wood offcut 12 .
Remember the paper template
we made for the headstock? Before
I applied the veneer I used the
cutout section to record the position
of the trussrod rout and the screw
holes for the trussrod cover and
string tree. Guided by the template
marks I drilled through the
veneer to reinstate the holes, then
carved away the maple covering
the trussrod rout. From the rear
I drilled pilot holes through the
centre of each tuner hole, enlarged
the holes in the veneer with a wider
bradawl bit, then used a reamer
to increase them to the right size.
After flat sanding with 240 grit
paper, the head and body were ready
for finishing 13 .
STAGE 6
The trans black finish
Because of our cool-looking veneer,
we opted for a PRS style stonewash
finish. On the figured maple tops
that you see on guitars by PRS and
Suhr and so forth, the maple is dyed
before the finish is applied. This
makes the grain pop out regardless
of the viewing angle.
For our water-based black stain
we settled on a 3:1 ratio of dye to
water. First, raise the grain of the
Refinishing WORKSHOP
13
14
15
16
17
18
veneer by wiping it over with a

damp cloth; when its dry, wipe on
the dye. At first our guitar looked
dark purple, but after sanding off
most of the dye it got a lot better. If
you repeat the dying, sanding and
wiping process, it accentuates the
contrast in the grain 14 - 19 .
STAGE 7
Spraying
Steve Robinson (www.manchester
guitartech.co.uk) supplied two cans
of black gloss and two of clear gloss
nitrocellulose. The maple top was
first protected with a few coats of
clear gloss. Once dry, I masked off
the front of the body and sprayed
satin black into the bridge and
pickup routs. Next I brushed highdensity cellulose base coat from
Fiddes (www.fiddes.co.uk) onto
the back and sides and sanded
everything smooth. The mask
19
for the front was secured loosely;

firmly fixed masking tape leaves
sharp edges in the lacquer when its
peeled off. I then placed the body
face down on two risers to spray the
back and sides black.
We decided on a thin black burst
around the edges to blend in the
veneer top. After removing the front
mask and laying the body on its
back, we carefully sprayed the burst,
holding the spray can over the
centre of the body and directing the
spray outwards. Start by spraying
beyond the edge then gradually
bring it towards the body until you
see the edges of the body picking
up the colour. Be patient and build
up the burst slowly. If you end up
with splutters or overspray, you can
sand off the excess because there
are clear coats underneath.
Next I covered the whole guitar
with several coats of clear gloss
and set the guitar aside for a week.

The finish was then cut back using
800, 1200 and 1500 grit wet and
dry abrasive paper in the usual way.
After buffing to a deep gloss with
Farecla G3 and 3M Machine Polish
and sticking an Ibanez logo from
eBay on the headstock, the guitar
was ready for reassembly 20 .
Verdict
For a project like this, remember
that you dont have to use black dye
the procedure would be the same
if you wanted your guitar to be trans
blue, trans red or trans-anything. It
involved quite a lot of work, but
were delighted with the results. You
can still find Ibanez RGs like this
for less than 300 second-hand,
and with some time and around
100 in materials you could end up
with a superb maple-topped guitar.
What are you waiting for?
13 The headstock veneer,

trimmed, with tuner holes
reinstated and truss rod nut
exposed
14 Our body after the first
application of stain. At this
stage it looks a bit purple
15 Heres the body with the
first coat of stain sanded back.
Not too handsome, you say?
16 When the veneer is wiped
down with white spirit, it
really starts to look exciting
17 More staining. Were
adding a second application to
get the colour to go darker
18 Stain sanded back again.
More stages give more grain
contrast but less movement
19 A second wipe down with
white spirit gives an idea of
how the guitar might look
20 With black burst and clear
coats added the Ibanez is
transformed
20
PROJECT Lap steel
LAP STEEL PROJECT
LAP OF LUXURY
Many guitarists are tempted by the lap steel but most dont own
one, so why not build one yourself? Its the perfect project for a
budding luthier, and HUW PRICE can tell you exactly how its done
f you have ever fancied having

a stab at guitar building, a lap
steel is a brilliant place to start.
Theres no awkward truss rod
installation, no tricky neck
carving and, best of all, you dont
even need frets. This month, were
going to try to create our very own
lap steel guitar in a single weekend..
Starting out
First we need the wood for the body.
Ever since I moved into my house,
Id been eyeing up the wooden
mantelpiece 1 , Brian May-fashion,
but with a view to making a lap
steel. The wood actually turned out
to be African mahogany, or Khaya
Ivorensis, to give it its posh name.
Next, the fingerboard. I checked
in the Stew-Mac catalogue and
noticed that they sell flat, pre-slotted
Dobro fingerboards in ebony and
rosewood, 19" long and 2 3/8" wide
with a scale length of 25". Since I
didnt want to get into the tricky
1 Our lap steel in its original

fireplace form
2 Making full-scale plans is
a good idea
business of fret slotting, I designed

my project around this board.
I didnt really want to recreate
a classic design, so instead I
looked at loads of lap steels on the
internet then made a sketch of my
own. Next, I had to draw up scale
plans. When Im building guitars
I prefer to work with Imperial
measurements because the US
parts suppliers do the same. When
creating scale plans, I simply make
1cm equivalent to 1", so the 25"
scale length became 25cm. Once
I was happy with the shape and
dimensions, I taped together six
sheets of A4 paper and drew up the
full-scale plans. This is worthwhile
because it reveals errors, and you
can even physically arrange parts
on the drawing, like tuners, 2 to
make sure that everything fits.
Since I dont have any specialist
timber-cutting equipment, I took
my plank up to my local joinery
firm and they cut it into three strips
3" wide for the centre block and

1" and 1 1/2" strips for the wings.
They also planed the front and
back surfaces so I had everything
smooth and squared up. At home I
sawed the wing strips to length, cut
the angles using a mitre saw, and
marked out the centre block.
In the workshop
Once the centre block was cut to
length I drilled the machinehead
holes to avoid any chipping-out,
then made a straight cut using the
mitre saw where the neck taper
meets the base of the peghead 3
. After this I removed the unwanted
timber using a chisel and smoothed
everything out using a Carroll drum
sander attached to my electric drill,
held tight in my drill press 4 .
Drill presses for conventional hand
drills are cheaply available in most
DIY stores, and you should be able
to get a Carroll drum sander in
any specialist tool shop. Be careful
Lap steel PROJECT
3 Here are the main body

parts, all ready
4 Fine-shaping with a Carrol

drum sander
5 Remember to drill a hole
for the pickup wire
6 First stage of gluing the
body together
not to apply too much pressure

especially if, like me, you only have
a cheap drill press because the
Carroll wont sand straight. Also
make sure you wear a breathing
mask and a pair of goggles. That
exotic sawdust can be irritating.
I had decided to fit a T-style
bridge, partly because I happened
to have a spare one already along
with a load of T-style pickups. The
other good thing about this kind of
bridge was that I knew I could buy
a bridge cover if I needed a hand
rest. After I had drilled the string
and screw holes for the bridge, I
clamped one of the wings onto the
centre block and drilled a throughhole to get the pickup wire into the
control cavity 5 .
I drew the curves of the lower
bout onto the wings and knocked
off the corners with the mitre saw.
The plan was to round them off
later with the Carroll sander (most
pros would probably do this with
a bandsaw, but I dont have one).
Next I brushed on some Titebond
glue and clamped the body parts
together 6 . Besides drawing up
the plans, Id estimate that all the
work so far had taken me less than
five hours. After sitting overnight
the clamps were removed, and Day
Two began.
Gluing and Routing

I had chosen to use a T-bass style
control plate, so I needed to make
the holes for the controls and the
pickup. After carefully marking

everything out, I drilled the output
jack hole using a 1 bit and then
chain-drilled all around the areas
where I needed to remove wood
with an 8mm bradawl point bit. For
this the drill was mounted in my
drill press so each hole ended up
exactly the same depth.
I removed the excess wood with a
Dremel-type tool and a router bit in
a Stewart-MacDonald mini-router
base. Serious routing with a Dremel
is tricky, and you should work your
way slowly to the required depth
otherwise the router bit will be torn
loose or start wandering around all
over the place. If you havent got a
router, you could clean out the holes
using a chisel. The results probably
wont be as neat, but nobodys ever
going to see it 7 .
Now the body was ready for final
filling, shaping and sanding. Its
worth taking your time over this
phase because the quality of the
finish depends on the preparation.
My timber had been fixed to the
concrete fireplace with a number
of large nails, so I had to fill all the
holes using wood filler. I used the
stuff that comes with a separate
hardener, just like car filler. Once
that was dry I sanded everything
smooth, masked off the area where
the fingerboard was to be glued on,
and brushed on a coat of shellacbased sanding sealer.
Since I was aiming for a faded
TV yellow finish I misted on a
covering coat of the nearest colour

I could find in Halfords Rover
Primula Yellow 8 . Once that
had dried I applied some dark
grain-filler and followed this with
some more misting colour coats.
With just a hint of grain showing
through the finish, I applied several
coats of clear cellulose lacquer. The
one I always use is Fiddes Bone
Hard (www.fiddes.co.uk), which
is available in aerosols. The finish
had to sit for a week or so to harden
before I could polish it up. I cut the
surface back with 1500-grit wet and
dry sandpaper (used wet) and then
polished it, first with 3M Machine
Polish, then Farecla G3. I used to
use T-Cut but the ammonia in this
product softens the finish, making
the polishing stage much harder.
Painting
Next it was time to move onto the
fingerboard. I drilled the holes for
the position markers using an 8mm
bradawl bit before I glued on the
fingerboard because I didnt want to
risk damaging the finish in the drill
press. Next I removed the masking
tape from the body and dry-clamped
the fingerboard into position.
I drilled two small pilot holes
through the board and into the body
for locating pins when the board
was being glued on (I know from
experience that things can slide
about once that slippery glue is
applied). I unclamped the board,
tapped a couple of panel pins
>
PROJECT
INTERVIEW
LapVinnie
steel Moore & Paul Raymond | UFO
7 Body routs done: note the

output jack hole
8 First coats. Note masked

fingerboard area
9 White fret strips and
pearl dots installed
10 L-section nut cut and
screwed into position
11 Example Blueprints for

making your lapsteel
10
through the pilot holes, and applied

Titebond glue to the bottom of the
fingerboard. After carefully lining
up the panel pins with the pilot
holes in the body, I tapped them in
a bit and clamped everything down
to glue overnight.
After removing the panel pins, I
glued in the pearl dots 9 . Installing
frets on a brand-new fretboard is
actually much easier than youd
imagine but theres not much point
when youre building a lap steel: the
frets are merely visual markers, so
I used 0.02 white binding strips
instead. The fingerboard slots were
0.023 so the binding just tapped
in, and it was such a tight fit I
didnt even need glue. The whole
procedure took just a few minutes,
and I sanded everything flush using
a sanding block. Its best to fit the
frets with the fingerboard already
installed because if you tap them

in beforehand they will cause the
fingerboard to curve, and this will
make it harder to glue down.
Finishing off
I flipped over the body and tapped
the string ferrules into place using a
hammer and a length of dowel rod
to protect the body. After attaching
a Shed Spider pickup to the bridge,
it was simply a case of threading
the wires through that pre-drilled
hole into the control cavity and
screwing down the bridge using the
pre-drilled holes. I attached the pots
to the control plate and wired in the
capacitors, then joined the pickup
wires direct to the volume pot. The
output wires were soldered to a
regular mono jack socket that was
bolted to a curved plate and screwed
in place onto the body.
11
11
1
1
16
13/8
1
15
19
31
/8
DI BOX
DI BOX
4
24
The next stage was to fit the

tuners. I ended up using some
Schallers that were sitting in my
parts drawer.
Making the nut was really simple.
I bought a length of 1cm x 2cm
aluminium corner from B&Q, cut
a piece to the width of the fretboard,
then drilled three holes in the
1cm side and screwed it onto the
headstock 10 . I measured to make
sure that each bridge saddle was
exactly 25" away from the nut, and
loosely attached the strings. I stuck
some masking tape over the top of
the nut, spaced out the strings by
eye, marked the top of the nut on
each side of every string and cut the
slots using nut files. If you havent
got nut files, you can get by with a
needle file and some abrasive paper.
Conclusion
To be honest, this project took me
more than one weekend, but thats
only because I decided on a sprayed
finish to make it look as good as
possible. You could make this
project even simpler by applying an
oil finish or just waxing the wood.
So is this the lap of luxury? Well,
to me it sounds just like lap steels
sound on records. It sustains for
days and, more by luck than
planning, that volume control is
perfectly situated for volume swells.
All I have to do now is buy some
heavier strings for those countrified
6th tunings, and then figure out
how to play it. Wish me luck!
WORKSHOP Action adjustment
L
ACTION STATIONS
DIY WORKSHOP
Adjusting a guitars action is a matter of

understanding and balancing several
interacting factors. HUW PRICE explains all
ife is full of commonly used

words and phrases that we
only partly understand.
We may use them from
time to time, but if pushed
wed struggle to provide accurate
definitions. In politics and we
have budget deficit; in sound
engineering theres impedance;
while in the world of guitars theres
that little word action..
Action means different things to
different people, but at a very basic
level its generally attributed to
string height i.e. the gap between
the top of the frets and the guitar
strings. Those with a more rounded
understanding may use action as
a catch-all term to cover the overall
playing feel and setup of a guitar.
Many of us will have shaken our
heads in disbelief when reading
forum posts describing how
someone has bought and sold
several examples of a particular
guitar because the action was
always lousy. This beggars belief
because action can always be
adjusted. However, there are various
technical issues and build quirks
that may prevent your guitar from
playing properly with your preferred
string action. So lets take a look at
the other factors that dictate how a
guitar can and should be set up, and
discover what we can do to achieve
the best action possible.
The highs and lows

Received wisdom usually states
that a low string action is good and
a high string action is bad. Those
who are old enough to remember
cutting their teeth (and fingers)
on cheap Far Eastern guitars with
strings half an inch or so off the
fretboard will recall that upgrading
to better budget guitars or
eventually a real Fender or Gibson
Action adjustment WORKSHOP
1 Checking the neck relief

with feeler gauges, with a capo
at the first fret and a finger
at the fret nearest the neck/
body join
2 Download some radius
templates free from the web,
print them off and cut them
out carefully with some very
sharp scissors
3 If youre having a re-fret,
it would be a good time to
have a chat with your luthier
about fingerboard radius as
well as fret size and height
brought ever-improving playability.

These days we can expect even
the most affordable guitars to be
perfectly playable, so the action-toprice equation no longer applies. If
you can now set things any way you
want it, what are the pros and cons
of high and low string action?
String height will affect your
tone. Youll probably find that
higher action produces a fatter
sound with more sustain, while
lowering the action makes the
sound thinner and less resonant. So
balancing tone with playability can
be a bit of a trade-off, but the extent
to which this is noticeable will
depend on the way you use your
amp and effects. High gain can
cover a multitude of sins.
Your playing style may also
dictate how your guitar should be
set up. At one extreme we have
guitars that are set up exclusively
for slide; the strings need to offer
some resistance to the slide and
youll want to avoid having the
strings touching the frets at all,
so heavier strings and a medium
or high string action with shallow
nut slots is the way to go. At the
other extreme, guitarists who play
metal or fusion or just like to shred

will need lower action to perform
lightning-fast runs, hammer-ons
and pull-offs. A flatter fingerboard
radius is also preferable for stringbending too.
Fingerboard radius
When starting out, I was always
told that Gibsons had lower action
than Fenders. Prior to the 1980s
this was generally true but, to be
more accurate, Gibsons had the
potential be set up with lower string
action. This was because Gibsons
preferred fingerboard radius was
12" compared to Fenders 7.25"
(modern Fenders tend to have a
9.5" radius).
Fenders vintage fingerboard
radius can cause problems if the
string action is set too low. As you
bend a high E or B string, the string
height stays the same but the fret
height becomes relatively higher
due to the curve of the fingerboard.
Consequently the vibrating string
comes into contact with the higher
frets as it is bent, which causes
buzzing, reduces sustain and
eventually chokes out the string.
The only easy solution is to
increase the height of the string
to the point where it can be bent
without coming into contact with
the frets. This is true for most
guitars, so it follows that a flatter
radius board allows the strings to be
set lower and thats why shredder
guitars from the likes of Jackson
and Ibanez have boards with radii
closer to 16".
If you do a lot of chord work
(particularly barre chords) and
little lead playing, a Fender-style
radius will probably make your
guitar more comfortable to play.
Some makers offer necks with
a compound radius, with a
fingerboard surface like a section

of a cone, more curved at the nut
end and gradually becoming flatter
up the neck, thus offering the
best of both worlds. Apparently
lots of vintage guitars, particularly
Fenders, have ended up with
compound radius necks, as this
often occurred during re-fretting
when the fingerboard was sanded
to remove dents. It may not be
vintage-correct but it can make for a
more playable guitar.
Its a relief
Consider for a moment the arc of a
vibrating string. The displacement
from centre is greatest halfway
along the length of the string, and
displacement is lowest near the nut
and bridge. Consequently, if the
fingerboard is perfectly flat along its
length or worse, bowed backwards
a low-set string wont have enough
space to vibrate without buzzing
against the frets. Its thus common
practice to set up guitars with a
small amount of neck relief, with
the trussrod slackened off to allow
the string tension to bow the neck
very slightly forward. You can check
neck relief visually by placing a
finger or capo on the strings at the
first fret and pressing the low E
string flat against the frets where
the neck joins the body. You should
notice a very slight gap between
the top of the seventh fret and the
string if the neck has some relief.
If youre experiencing fret buzz
around the lower and middle frets,
the chances are that the neck has
no relief or a back bow. Raising
string action may cure the buzz,
but your guitar will become harder
to play. The only workable solution
is to slacken the guitars trussrod
to create some relief. How much
relief is a matter for debate, but >
WORKSHOP
INTERVIEW Action
Vinnieadjustment
Moore & Paul Raymond | UFO
4 Cutting nut slots to the

ideal height takes experience
and an expensive set of nut
files. Its really a job for the
professionals
5 This Gretsch has a solid

bar bridge, but you can use
a radius gauge to check its
the right match for your
fingerboard radius
gaps up to around 0.02" are typical.

You can measure neck relief using
the type of feeler gauge available in
car accessory shops. However, you
may prefer the feel of a flat neck.
The real key to action set up is to
realise that everything has a knockon effect on everything else. If you
slacken the trussrod too much and
the neck ends up with too much
relief, the action will feel higher. If
you lower the saddle to compensate,
your guitar may play fine at the
lower frets, but may buzz higher up
the fretboard. You have to play the
guitar to determine if it feels good
and hone in on the optimum setup.
Wood moves about depending
on temperature and humidity. This
will cause the neck relief to increase
and decrease. Your neck is far more
likely to move than the saddles on
the bridge. If the intonation on your
guitar goes off, you should check
the neck relief before adjusting
the saddles. If the back bow has
increased, the scale length will
have increased and vice versa for
a forward bow. Learning how to
adjust a trussrod is everyone should
do. Read up about it, confine your
efforts to a quarter-turn, and always
use the correct tool. Youll discover
that you are able to keep your guitar
in optimum playing condition.
Fret height and wear

Frets, like car tyres, eventually need
changing, but frets dont always
wear evenly because we tend to
stick to certain keys and therefore
wear occurs in localised areas. This
explains why certain notes induce
fret buzz while others play cleanly.
Again, raising string action can
reduce buzzing but compromises
playability. For a low, buzz-free
action, your frets need to be level.
Fretwork isnt daunting: its just
maintenance. Most likely the frets

will simply need a light stoning to
get them level, followed by dressing
to restore the crowns, and a polish.
While older or heavily-used guitars
may need their frets replacing,
guitars can remain playable with
very low frets, but string-benders
will miss the fret height that allows
your fingers to get under the strings
for more secure grip, easier bends
and better vibrato control. The
bottom line: fret health is crucial to
achieving a nice playing action.
Nut business
String height can be adjusted at
both ends, and the depth of the
nut slots has a big influence on
playing feel. Cutting the slots to
the optimum depth is a skilled job
that requires time and care hardly
compatible with mass-producing
guitars. Many factories cut nut slots
cut on the shallow side because it
saves time and money.
When you get that new guitar
home, the chances are that the nut
will need some attention before it
will play its best. If the nut slots are
too shallow you may find it harder
to hold down notes at the first fret
regardless of the saddle height, and
open chords might feel a bit stiff,
or may even sound out of tune. If
the slots are too low youll hear fret
buzz as the open string vibrates
against the first fret.
Saddling up
Although setting the saddle height
may have seemed like the logical
first stage in adjusting the action,
weve left it until last as theres far
more to action than simply raising
and lowering the strings. Hopefully
weve identified the factors that may
thwart your attempts to lower your
action and explained why you may
wish to try setting your string action

that little bit higher.
The limit on how low you can
take the action will be pretty
obvious when choked out bends,
buzzing and lack of sustain impact
too much on tone and playability.
After setting the neck relief, try
taking the high string down to
where its low enough to fret easily
but high enough for decent tone
and easy bending.
Since the fingerboard is curved it
follows that all the strings cannot be
set to the same height. The outside
strings would be way too high if
the middle strings were set at a
workable height, and if the strings
were lowered to make the outer
strings playable the middle strings
would be touching the frets. Ideally
the string heights will be set to
follow the curve of the fingerboard.
Tune-o-matic and wrapover
bridges do not allow you to adjust
the height of individual strings.
Tune-o-matic saddles sit at differing
heights to achieve the required
curve and the radius is cast into
wrapover bridges. Fender-style
bridges allow for individual string
height adjustment. Many luthiers
use radius gauges to set the saddle
radius accurately. You can download
printable gauges; just Google guitar
radius gauge and go from there.
Since the strings are set above
the fretboard the string radius
should perhaps be slightly larger
than the board radius, but setting
them identically seems to work fine.
If youre unsure of your fingerboard
radius you can use the downloaded
gauges to determine what it is.
Guitars set up this way tend to play
very evenly and the strings always
seem to fall where your fingers
expect them to be. It does make a
real difference.
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WORLD FAMOUS MUSIC STRINGS

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WORKSHOP Neck & Fretboard
NECK & FRETBOARD WORKSHOP
NECKS IN LINE
Profiles, scale lengths, fingerboard cambers, lacquer choices all

part of the myriad subtleties that dictate how a guitar neck feels
to the player. We focus on the finer details of neck design
ne of the most important

aspects of any guitar, not
surprisingly, is how easy
the instrument is to play
and its universally agreed
that this is mainly determined
by the shape and feel of the neck
and fingerboard. The rest of the
instrument pickups, bridge and
body timber though important,
can only perform at their best once
the neck is playable. In a nutshell,
everything starts at the neck..
Neck and neck

Styles of neck construction can
vary considerably between guitar
makers. Most necks are built
from a combination of two types
of hardwood: one for the bulk or
back of the neck, the other for
the playing surface that holds the
frets, aka the fingerboard (Fenders
one-piece maple neck with integral
fretboard is an obvious exception).

The rear section of a neck is
shaped from a hardwood blank
with long, straight grain to ensure
that the neck can be slim but still
able to withstand the pull of the
strings. Some luthiers use a single
piece of maple or mahogany; others
laminate three or more pieces
together longitudinally with the
grain direction of the outer pieces
opposing in order to balance stress
and reduce the chances of future
twisting. Laminating the timber
this way is cost-effective and
structurally sensible: the laminate
is very strong and stable. This
consideration ensures maximum
strength, especially where the
headstock joins the top of the neck,
the thinnest and weakest point.
While Fender and Gibson have
habitually plumped for one-piece
necks and headstocks (on the Strat,
Tele and Les Paul), numerous

makers today especially those
using pointed, dropped headstocks
splice the headstock to the neck.
Done properly, this can save timber,
but such a joint is only as strong as
the glue and the flushness of the
two surfaces.
Fretboards are usually rosewood
or ebony, two very hard timbers
that dont require a lacquer finish to
protect them from the environment
and you, the player. Maple is used
successfully for fretboards, though
being a naturally white timber
it requires a finish to protect it
from dirt. This has caused some
controversy, not least due to
Fenders ultra-thick 70s finish that
gave maple fretboards a reputation
for being sticky and slow.
Modern, thinner satin finishes
and higher frets tend to equalise
the feel of a maple fingerboard, but
Neck & fretboard WORKSHOP
NECK SHAPES
The three most common neck profiles:
where the finish is applied over the

frets as on 70s Fenders a re-fret
can be a bit of a nightmare. Usually
the only solution is to remove both
the frets and the fingerboard finish,
which then has to be reapplied,
adding to the repair cost.
Ideally, the combined shape
of both the fingerboard and the
rear section of the neck should
complement one another, helping
to make complex fingerings more
comfortable. There are many factors
at play here: the necks width and
depth, the shape of the back of
the neck, the fretboard radius, the
frets, the guitars scale length and,
of course, the action. Thats why, at
G&B, we list these specs in reviews
to help you decide whether a guitar
might suit you.
Neck shapes
To simplify matters, it could be said
that there are three basic styles of
neck shape: the C, the D, and the V
shape. The C shape describes most
Gibson-type guitar necks, a smooth
oval in section. The D describes
many Fender-style profiles with
fatter, squarer shoulders (the
sides of the neck). The V shape has
shoulders that are often quite steep,
and although usually attributed to
Martin, the style was also adopted
by Fender at times in the 50s and
has been frequently reapplied to
reissues and signature models. Of
course, these categories are broad
and the variations manifold, but
this should help you to grasp the
most commonly-used terminology.
In essence, the shape of the rear
section of the neck dictates how the
neck feels in the palm of your hand.
Whats comfortable is obviously
very personal: some players like
the big, deep D-shaped necks of
old 50s Les Pauls, others will rave
about the super-thin C Wizard
shapes of modern lbanez necks.
Scale length is important here

too, as it directly relates to the
distance between the frets. Players
with big hands may feel happier
playing on the longer 25.5" Fender
scale than the shorter Gibson 24.75"
scale. More and more companies,
such as PRS, are using a halfway
25" scale length. The best of both
worlds? Maybe.
Apart from the physical size of
your hand, the way you fret will
affect how the neck feels. If you
grab the neck with your thumb
around the bass strings, a bigger
D shape may be preferable; if you
fret in the classical thumb behind
position then a thinner neck, often
with a flatter back, might suit you
best. If youre trying guitars in a
shop, the sales assistant should
be able to help you pick C and D
shaped necks to compare, and a
well-stocked store should be able to
produce a V neck too, like the one
on Fenders Eric Clapton Strat. Ask
to try instruments with different
scale lengths so that you can gain
some idea of the neck shape and
string length combination that suits
your hands best.
Of course, you may find a great
neck on a not-so-great sounding
guitar, or vice versa thats life. If
youre rich, an answer may lie in
a custom-built guitar: the rest of
us will have to get used to a dodgy
neck on a great-sounding guitar.
After all, if your sound is poor,
whos going to notice those solos?
On the subject of tone, the
materials used for the neck and
fretboard also contribute greatly
to the sound of the instrument,
although surprise, surprise
opinions on the effect run in all
directions. Whatever anyone tells
you, the tone of a guitar is the sum
of its parts and your hands, and
just because you have a rosewood
fretboard it wont make a guitar
warmer than another instrument

with a brighter maple fretboard.
Even highly experienced guitar
makers hesitate to be drawn into
any precise judgements on the
sound of wood. Let your ears and
hands make the decision. You
may simply like the look of a nice
piece of rosewood; its a valuable
resource, so enjoy it.
The camber never lies

The cross-sectional shape of the
fretboard aka the radius or
camber is very relevant to a
guitars playability. Consider, for
instance, the plight of players of
vintage-spec Strats or Teles who
find it difficult to make first, second
and third string high-fret bends
ring clean and true. Beyond the
10th fret, bending more than a
semitone especially with a low
action can cause the strings to
choke out on the upper frets, the
sound becoming throttled and
buzzy as they approach or pass the
centre of the fingerboard.
Most guitars have a regular
radius that is the same at the nut >
FIG 1 FINGERBOARD RADII

16"
12"
10"
71/4"
WORKSHOP Neck & fretboard
1 Rosewood allows easy

refrets or even board
re-radiusing
2 On maple fingerboards
any re-radiusing means a
refinish
3 Gibsons with their flattercamber boards choke out
far less
as at the highest fret. Older vintage

and many reissue Fenders have a
relatively small radius of 7.25". Such
necks feel great to play on; barre
chords feel good and first position
riffing is easy. However, the small
radius causes upper fret choking.
Loads of players learn to live with it,
while others cant abide it.
Curing the choking on a 7.25"
radius fretboard involves a cunning
re-radiusing of the frets so that the
perceived radius increases as you
travel up the board. Though this
appears to flatten out the board, it
is actually only the frets which take
on the new shape; honed this way,
the strings are less likely to collide
with them and choke out.
FIG 2 NECK SHAPES

a On the left, a
constant radius
fingerboard with
a surface like
a tube
b On the right,
a cone-shaped
compound radius
fingerboard,
growing flatter
towards the
upper frets
The trick is turned by subtle

re-cambering of the frets with
carborundum or a grindstone so
that the top (or crown) becomes
gradually lower on the higher frets,
the radius at the last fret being
anywhere between 12" and 14".
This modification works very well
but requires extra dressing and
reshaping of the low-to-middle
sections of the higher frets, which
is difficult and expensive. The size
or gauge of the frets also has a large
bearing on the potential success
of the job. Many repairers see this
repair as a compromise, since the
height of the frets is progressively
reduced; you may cure the choking
but you now have lower frets, and
string bends are likely to be harder
to execute. However, on valuable
guitars it may be the only option.
The ultimate repair is to change
the fretboard radius itself, work
which involves removing the frets
then shooting the board with a
plane to flatten the radius. Once the
neck has been re-fretted, the new
frets retain a regular height from
one end of the neck to the other
(bear in mind that on Fenders with
veneer fretboards theres often not
enough material to reshape). If any
refinishing is involved, as there will
be if your fretboard is maple, the
repair is going to be costly, though
its justifiable since the guitar will
play and feel much better.
Fender has taken notice of this
and have, for example, altered the
fretboard radius on the American
Standard Series, swapping the
vintage 7.25" for a gentler 9.5".
Incidentally, this specific choking
problem never afflicted Gibson
guitars as their radius was, and still
is, typically 12", their fretboards
being much flatter in comparison.

PRS generally employ a halfway
radius of 10" to match their halfway
scale length. Fig 1 shows the four
common radiuses: 7.25", 10", 12"
and 16". See how curvy the Fender
7.25" seems next to Gibsons 12".
Compound cambers
Re-working the neck is one option
for your favourite guitar, but a
much more elegant way out is to
swap the neck for one built with a
compound radiused fretboard and
to stash the old neck out of harms
way, original and untouched. This
swap could also involve fitting the
new neck with a set of locking
machineheads and a graphite nut,
a good move for both fixed-bridge
and tremolo-bridge guitars.
The compound radius idea is far
from new it crops up on certain
classical instruments but
Warmoth in the USA were one of
the first to offer a compound radius
on a retro-fit neck to suit, for
example, a Stratocaster. The
Warmoth compound radius shapes
the fretboard so that it takes on the
contour of a section of a cone
unlike a normally radiused
fretboard which takes on the
contour of a tube (see Fig 2, left). A
typical Warmoth compound neck
will start with a radius of 10" at the
nut and end with a radius of 16".
Many other companies employ
compound radii, from Jackson to
UK makers Overwater. Still, as we
stated earlier, neck shapes and
fretboard cambers are only part of
the playability story. Before you start
thinking of refrets or new necks, get
your guitar professionally set up
youll be surprised what a
difference it makes.
Tremolo WORKSHOP
TREMOLO WORKSHOP
CRITICAL BUT STABLE
Strat trem units can be a vital part of a players arsenal. However,

getting them set up correctly so they can take a hammering and
still do you proud is a tricky business. HUW PRICE is here to help
he history of vibrato
guitar bridges is long and
complicated, but the ruler of
the roost at least until 1954
was Bigsby. Theyre still
very popular and work efficiently
enough within their limits, but
theyre probably best suited to
archtop guitars. The Bigsby B16
for Telecasters was introduced in
1953, but Leo Fender reckoned he
could come up with something a
bit more sophisticated for his new
Stratocaster model. With help from
Freddy Tavares, he completely
nailed it as usual..
Maybe Fender was trying to
distance his design from Paul
Bigsbys by calling his new bridge
a tremolo. Its a misnomer,
because tremolo actually describes
fluctuations in volume rather than
pitch. Consequently, Fender amps
have vibrato channels when in
fact they actually produce a tremolo
effect. To avoid confusion well just
use the term trem.
Of course musicians loved
Leos Stratocaster trem and it had
a huge impact on music over the
next decade or so, and many would
agree that it was Jimi Hendrix who
was the first to really explore its full
potential. Behind that potential,

however, lie a number of limits. The
Strat trem is a mechanical device
and, like all mechanical devices, it
requires proper maintenance, not
to mention careful adjustment to
function correctly.
Setup information wasnt
readily available in the 70s and
80s so many players of that era
threw in the towel and simply
blocked off their trems, or turned
to locking trems from the likes
of Floyd Rose and Kahler. At this
stage the traditional Fender trems
days seemed like they could be
numbered, but once the novelty of
two-octave dive-bombs had worn
off, it became apparent that locking
trems created as many problems as
they solved.
When Paul Reed Smith
introduced his own trem in the
mid-80s, he was able to apply the
lessons hed learned from years of
setting up Stratocasters. His design
was surprisingly traditional and it
demonstrated that Fenders original
design could be made to work
reliably as long as the designer has
thorough understanding of vital
topics such as friction points, proper
nut setup and spring adjustment.
How it works
The fundamental difference
between the Bigsby units and
Fenders design is that the Fender
bridge floats. Bigsbys work with
fixed bridges and a roller bearing
turns to raise or lower string
tension thereby altering pitch.
Fenders method counterbalances
string tension with the pull of
springs housed in a body cavity. The
arm moves the entire bridge and
the springs and strings supply the
restorative forces needed to bring
the bridge back into position.
What could possibly go wrong
with such a simple system? Plenty,
as it happens but the problems
are often integral to guitars in
general rather than specific to
trems. Unfortunately trem systems
tend to expose issues that might
otherwise go unnoticed. The
primary cause has to be friction.
Anything that impedes the free
movement of the strings and the
bridge will prevent the trem from
returning to a state of equilibrium
after use. The PRS trem minimised
or eliminated friction points
wherever possible. You can do
the same with your trem when
performing routine maintenance. >
TOOLBOX
Cross head screwdrivers
Allen key for saddles
Ruler
Guitar tuner
Wet & dry paper
Chrome polish
WORKSHOP Tremolo
FRICTION POINT 1: THE NUT
Most guitar tuning instability can be traced to

the nut. The strings pass through narrow
grooves with a lot of downward pressure, so
they have a tendency to stick and bind in the
slots. Nuts are often pre-slotted (or slotted in a
hurry on a production line). Making a nut work
smoothly requires time and effort, but its
something you can do yourself. If you notice
pops or clicking sounds from the headstock
when you bend strings or use your trem, the
nut may need attention.
Nuts are often left too high above the string
slots, so even if the depth of the slot is correct,
the string sits too deep (see pic, right). The top
of the nut only needs to be high enough to hold
the string securely in the slot, so in effect the
top half of the string can be proud of the top of
the nut. This helps keep the contact area
between the string and the nut to a minimum,
thus minimising friction (see below).
Nut files can leave grooves in nut slots. Once
the depth of the slot is optimised, the inside
surfaces of the slot can be smoothed out with
wet and dry paper. Try 1200 or 1500 grit,
maybe wrapping the paper around cut-off
lengths of string. You can follow up with some
The string slots are the correct depth but the

top of the nut needs to be filed down to
expose the tops of the strings very slightly
polishing compound; we find that chrome
polish is particularly effective on bone.
Once the slots are super-smooth, you can
add some lubrication. Guitarists have been
using graphite from soft pencils for decades,
but this leaves the slots looking mucky.
Vaseline or wax can also be used, but there is
some anecdotal evidence that these can
damage guitar finishes. We prefer propriety
products like Big Bends Nut Sauce (see pic,
below right).
One side of the ribs are glued:

now for the other side
This nicely-polished and height-adjusted nut

supports and secures the strings properly,
minimising friction in the string slots
After polishing the string slots, try adding

some suitable lubricant. Here were applying
some Big Bends Nut Sauce: its good stuff
FRICTION POINT 2: THE BRIDGE SCREWS
Many of Fenders current trem systems work on

knife edge pivots with one screw at each side of
the bridge. This was also Leo Fenders preferred
arrangement during his latter years at G&L.
Obviously a knife edge ensures minimal physical
contact, and these trems generally have a very
free and smooth action. But what if your bridge
has six regular screws?
Fender counter-sunk the screw holes on the
underside of their bridge plates to create knife
edges, but some cheaper replica bridges wont
have this feature. If yours doesnt, you may be
able to countersink the holes yourself. You could
also try removing the four centre screws. This
may appear reckless, but SRV got away with it
using 12 and 13 gauge strings so two screws
with a set of 9s or 10s should be okay.
If you want to keep the original looks, you may
decide to drill the four centre screw holes in the
bridge plate over-size; then the screws can be
reinstated without making physical contact with
the bridge. This mod is not recommended for
collectable guitars! Once again, use a dab of
Vaseline or Nut Sauce under the screw heads.
2 FRICTION POINT 3:
THE STRING TREE

Vintage-style Stats will have just one string
tree for the B and E strings, but modern
examples generally have a second for the D and
G strings. Through careful string winding (see
Strings & Tuners) you can get away without
using string trees at all.
If you do prefer to use them, then do ensure
that the factory spacers are installed under
the trees themselves. If the trees are screwed
flush with the face of the headstock, the string
angle will be too great and the sting will rub
excessively against the tree.
Reach for that chrome polish again and buff
up the underside of the string tree to make it
as smooth as possible. Some players choose to
strip the insulating plastic off the wire, thread
the string through the centre and then place
the plastic under the trees to make things run
smoother. Alternatively, another dab of lube
cant do any harm.
3 STRINGS
AND TUNERS
New strings always require a settling down
period before theyll stay in tune. You can
hasten this process dramatically by giving new
strings a thorough stretch. Dont go too crazy,
because youll snap them. Just stretch a little
at a time, with your fingers under the strings,
pulling away from the fretboard. Work along
the length of each string, check the tuning and
repeat until the string has stopped stretching.
Tuners have often been unjustly blamed for
unstable trems. If you have diecast tuners,
tighten up the screws holding the buttons on
to stiffen them up. Vintage-style tuners tend
to be pretty stiff, so they should be fine.
The break angle over the nut is important.
The well-known US luthier Dan Erlewine
recommends an angle of between 5 and 12
degrees. If the angle is too steep, the strings
may catch in their slots; if its too shallow you
may experience buzzing sounds from behind
the nut, and open strings wont ring cleanly.
You can set the break angle by wrapping the
string around the tuner post. If you take it all
the way down you can increase the angle,
which may allow you to dispense with the
string trees. You can also wrap strings
upwards to shallow the angle (see pic below).
Above: notice how the number of turns

around the string trees can be used to set the
break angle of the strings over the nut. 5 to
12 degrees is recommended
Tremolo WORKSHOP
SPRINGS & CLAW
Unfortunately we cant provide any hard and

fast rules regarding the number of springs you
should use or the way they should be arranged.
It really all comes down to personal taste,
because some players prefer a light feeling trem
while others prefer a stiffer setup to stop the
bridge moving when bending strings and to
maintain tuning if a string snaps.
The springs are hooked onto a claw thats
screwed to the body of the guitar. If its adjusted
tight against the body, it will be pulling the
springs hard and the bridge plate may end up
sitting tight against the top of the body. This will
allow you to dip the trem, but you wont be able
to pull upwards.
Most players prefer their trem bridges to
float, allowing both upwards and downwards
movement (its also thought that Stratocasters
sound more Stratty that way because you hear
a hint of reverb from the springs themselves).
Heres where you need to experiment with
combinations of springs and various claw
adjustments to position the bridge where you
like it and achieve the right feel for your style.
Stratocaster trems allow you to use up to five
springs. If youre using a set of ultra-heavy
gauge strings, then all five springs may be
needed to get the bridge floating properly. At the
other extreme, a set of .008"s or .009"s may
only require two springs. Most often three
springs are used, and theyre either arranged
straight or angled for a bit more pull. Well get
into fine tuning later, but the starting point for
most trem setups is a gap of 1/8" between the
body and the back edge of the bridge.
The traditional Fender Stratocaster trem system allows you to use anything for two to five springs.
Here we show all the usual combinations and configurations
6 HOW TO SET UP A TREM
This Strat has been set up with a gap of

about 1/8" between the back of the bridge
plate and the top of the body
If youre installing a new bridge or re-installing
one after a re-finish, wed suggest the following.
Position the bridge and tighten the two outside
bridge screws until they just touch the top of the
bridge before fitting the springs. Install the four
remaining bridge screws being sure to leave
them just proud of the bridge plate, not screwed
down then tighten the claw up close to the
body, string up the guitar, and tune to pitch.
At this point there should be no gap. If there
is, tighten the claw up further or add another
spring. If you dont want to pull up on your trem,
you may leave it like that. You can also slowly
unscrew both claw screws until the bridge is just

starting to lift to get a looser-feeling trem with
no pull up. Remember to re-tune the strings each
time you adjust the claw screws.
If you want a floating trem with some pull up
available, unscrew the claw screws a few turns
at a time, keeping it square to the body rout,
then return the strings to pitch. Work slowly,
re-tuning after each adjustment, until you
achieve a body to bridge gap of about 1/8" with
the strings tuned to concert pitch (see pic, left).
If you have ultra-light strings and you cant get
the bridge to lift, try removing one spring.
The flaw with this method is that some strings
naturally exert more pull on the bridge than
others. This is particularly apparent with hybrid
sets like skinny top/heavy bottoms. You can get
around this by angling the claw to balance out
the spring/string tension across all six strings
(see pic, above right.)
With Stratocaster trems, you can also
fine-tune the response to achieve accurate pitch
shifts. For instance, top guitarist Carl Verhayen
sets up his trems so that the G string pulls up a
minor third, the B string goes up a full tone, and
the E string pulls up a semitone. You can try this
yourself; just remember that if your trem wont
pull up far enough, youll need to slacken the
spring claw on the treble side and vice versa if
it pulls up too much.
This old Strat trem

has been set up as
recommended by Carl
Verhayen and the
spring claw has
ended up at an angle.
It doesnt look pretty,
but this Strat really
stays in tune and the
trem is very playable
Verdict
Remember that, with a Strat trem,
everything affects everything else. Once the
bridge height and spring tension have been
set, you will almost certainly need to
re-adjust the height of the string saddles
and re-set the intonation. Whenever making
adjustments, you need to re-check
everything else. Essentially, you should
expect to gradually hone a Strat setup rather
than nail it straight off. If you can work
methodically and remain patient, theres no
reason why your trem-equipped Strat cant
play smoothly and stay in tune just as well
as any other guitar.
WORKSHOP Electronics upgrade
ELECTRONICS UPGRADE
PARTS
2 x 500k CTS pots
1 x CRL 5-way lever switch
with spring action
1 x WD Music 5-way
switch knob
1 x Switchcraft 14 jack
socket
1 x Sprague Orange Drop
0.022mF capacitor
2 x WD Music Tele
barrel knobs
1 x black chrome Gotoh
football jack plate
WD Music vintage black/
white wire WD Music
Products 01223 820082
www.wdmusic.co.uk
TOOLS
40W soldering iron
Resin core solder
Assorted posidrive and
flathead screwdrivers
Assorted box and open end
spanners in imperial and
metric sizes
Needle-nose pliers
Wire cutters
Wire strippers
Craft knife or artists
scalpel for trimming
plastic and cloth
insulation on wires
Servisol Super 10
switch cleaner
1 Heres our pile of

gleaming new components:
a pair of CTS pots, a highquality CRS five-way switch,
a Switchcraft jack, an Orange
Drop capacitor and, of course,
that cloth-covered wire
2 Our patient, an Ibanez
EX, has decent enough
pickups but is suffering from
worn-out components that
werent exactly state of the
art in the first place. Let battle
commence
3 Pop off the knobs and
remove the nuts with the
correct-sized box spanner
HEART OF WIRE
Scratchy pots, intermittent output sounds familiar? The

majority of these woes can usually be corrected with a quick clean
and check, but when they wont clean up, its time to upgrade
he build quality and finish

of even the cheapest electric
guitars is quite staggeringly
good these days. However, one
area where the manufacturers
still cut costs is in the hidden
electrical components. Plastic-cased
switches, small chassis pots and
soft metal jack sockets are cheap
to mass-produce, but its these very
components which transfer the
juice from your pickups to your
guitar lead. These are the usual
culprits if your two-month old
guitar goes on the
blink, and as any
guitar repairer will
tell you, they can
be a nightmare
to service. Thats
why good repairers
will strongly recommend that
you change at least the volume
pot when installing an upgraded
pickup, otherwise youre leaving
a weak link in the chain which is
effectively strangling your tone.
This Ibanez EX series electric is
a fine case in point. The pickups
work fine (you have to abuse a
guitar very heavily to actually break
a pickup) and the owner was happy
with the basic sound when it
worked, that is. The output was
intermittent, with an unbearable
loud hum from the earth circuit.
On inspection, the pots and switch
were completely shot and the solder
had become brittle, so we decided
to throw out all the old cheaper
components, install new higherspecification units and rewire all

these new components with some
swanky cloth-covered wiring 1 .
Dissasembly
Our Ibanez 2 has its original
humbucker/humbucker/single
coil configuration with a five-way
selector and master volume, master
tone control configuration. Laying
the guitar face down on a smooth,
soft surface (an old blanket or soft
towel makes a fab non-scratch
youll need to reach inside and hold

the chassis of the pot. If you use a
posidrive screwdriver youll make
quick work of the switch locating
screws and the football sidemounted jack plate 4 .
Flip the guitar back onto its
front and locate the three pickup
leads 5 as they enter the control
cavity just behind and above the
volume pot (on humbuckers these
are usually multi-core wires with a
bare stranded earth wrap and two or
more conductor leads with a colourcoded insulation
covering. Standard
single coil pickups
have just two leads,
one from each end
of the winding).
There will also be a
fourth wire (usually black) entering
the cavity and soldered to the back
of a pot. This is the earth wire that
feeds from the bridge or vibrato
spring claw. This wire is important
so dont ignore it, pull on it or cut
it. Disconnect it from the pot 6
together with the other wires and,
if its long enough, fold it back out
of the way and tape it to the guitar
body. Dont forget to reconnect it,
or your guitar will sound absolutely
shocking. You have been warned.
Next, trace the pickup wires
to the switch and make a further
note of where they go; then either
unsolder them or simply clip them
off at the switch terminal. Label
them N, M or B (neck, middle,
Repairers will strongly recommend

that you change at least the volume pot
when installing an upgraded pickup
workbench covering) we start by

removing the back plate to reveal
the internal organs. Any guitar with
this kind of rear access (such as a
Les Paul) can be left strung up and
in tune throughout the process. If
youre working on a Strat-type then
the strings need to be slackened
or removed to flip the scratchplate
over. Before you do anything else,
spend a few minutes drawing
an accurate, detailed diagram of
the original wiring layout. Dont
imagine youll remember where the
wires go you wont.
Next, pop off the control knobs
to reveal the hexagonal nuts that
hold the pots in place 3 . Remove
them with a box or open spanner;
Electronics upgrade WORKSHOP
bridge) and then tape them out

of the way as well 7 . As were
upgrading from a single-sided
plastic switch to a more traditional
double-row Strat-type switch you
will need to source an alternate
switch diagram, but thats easy
the web is a great resource for this
type of information.
Now remove the pots, switch,
jack and any remaining wiring and
immediately throw the lot the bin.
Dont be tempted to save it for use
at a later date; life is simply too
short to go to the trouble of fitting
old parts only to discover that they
were knackered in the first place.
Preparation
Its now time to prep the new
components, as they all require a
little attention before installation.
Firstly check that the potentiometer
shafts fit through the existing holes
on the face of the guitar 8 as
higher spec components are often
slightly larger and more rugged
than the ones theyre replacing.
10
On this guitar we needed to widen

the diameter of the holes using a
dedicated hole reamer, but you can
do the same with a sharp round file
and a little patience (its a good idea
to protect the finish with masking
tape and work inwards towards the
cavity rather than outwards, where
you run the risk of chipping the
finish around the holes). Secondly,
check that the pot shaft protrudes
enough to take the knurled (inside
the cavity) and flat (on the face of
the guitar beneath the hexagonal
nut) washers plus the nut with
a couple of threads visible when
tightened. This may take a bit of
trial and error but is worth the
trouble to ensue a solid fit.
All okay? Great. Now remove
the pots again and seat them in
a small vice, if you have one, (or
a cork block with a suitable-sized
hole drilled into it) ready for you to
start tinning 9 . Any surface that is
being soldered needs to be tinned
first, and that includes the lugs on
the output jack 10 , the pots metal
11
casings and the wire tips. Tinned

parts allow the actual soldering
to take place much quicker. The
surface on the back of the pot
casing also needs to be cleaned of
any trace amounts of grease caused
by handling or oxidation to ensure a
clean, strong solder join. I use P320
Electro Coated finishing paper to
do the job, although a small metal
file or sharp screwdriver will be
sufficient to scratch through to the
shiny metal surface.
Select a pot for volume (either
will do) and turn it so the three lugs
are facing toward you as you look
down on the back of the casing.
Using needle-nosed pliers, bend
the right hand lug back to touch the
casing and then solder it to the case
11 . Its this connection that turns
your neutral pot into a volume
pot by sending the signal to earth
when the volume pot is rolled back.
Touch the part to be tinned with
the soldering iron, allow it to heat
up, and then flow the solder over
the part, NOT the soldering irons >
4 Removing the jackplate

reveals a cheap socket.
5 Off with the back plate,
and identify the three wires
coming from the pickups
6 Wires disconnected.
You have drawn a detailed
diagram, havent you?
7 With an empty control
cavity, we can label the wires
coming from the three pickups
and tape them out of the way
8 Check the new pots fit.
The holes might need a touch
from a file or reamer
9 Prepare all the parts and
tin the whole lot in one go. A
small vice is invaluable
10 Practise tinning on the
easiest bits fist. Pot and jack
lugs are the simplest
11 Tinning the pot casings is
hardest. Prep well and use an
iron of the right power
12 Now were starting to
re-populate the control cavity.
All lugs, casings and wire tips
should be tinned before this
stage. Note the posh new
capacitor on the tone pot
12
WORKSHOP Electronics upgrade
13
13 Switchcraft is the name

in jack sockets: heres ours
ready to go. Nows the time to
replace the plastic jack plate
with black chrome. Its as
important to tin the leads as
the other components
14 Now were using out new
cloth-covered wire to make
the connections between
output jack, tone and volume
pots, and switch. Its probably
best to leave the pickup wires
until last
15 Rewiring complete, youre
ready to plug in and check that
everythings working
16 A soldering gun is
optional: a 40W iron is
essential. Use a proper stand!
17 Bits and pieces you need:
a Posidrive screwdriver,
Servisol switch cleaner/
lubricant, miniature flathead
screwdrivers, a round file,
a reamer if youre really
serious and box spanners
SAFETY TIP
Solder can spit and spill
when heated, so wear safety
goggles and protect your
guitar and surrounding
surfaces with cloth.
Double and triple-check that
you have switched off or
unplugged the soldering iron
after use these things get
white hot and are extremely
dangerous if left on!
14
tip. Youll know a good solder join

when you see it: itll be bright and
shiny rather than a dull and lifeless
grey. Next, add two separate patches
of fresh solder to the back of the
casing to accept the earth wires later
on. Ensure your soldering iron is
good and hot, and work quickly to
avoid over-heating the track and
wiper inside the pot.
When youre sure youre happy
with the soldering, set the pot aside
and clean the back of the second
pot (now, by default, the tone pot).
Tin the middle and right hand
lug and also solder two separate
tinned patches on the back of the
casing. You now need to install the
capacitor between the middle lug on
the tone pot and the pot casing. Its
this capacitor which bleeds off the
treble frequencies on the tone pot.
Capacitors are fragile and are easily
popped if overexposed to heat, so
use a flat-head screwdriver between
the capacitor and the solder join to
act as a heat sink to absorb most
of the heat away. With the now pots
ready, tin the terminals on the fiveway selector switch and carefully
install all three components in the
control cavity 12 .
If the existing jack plate is plastic,
now is a very good time to upgrade
it to a nice sturdy metal plate.
Tin the terminals 13 and solder
16
15
a 150mm length of live (white)

and earth (black) shielded wire
to the jack. The live white wire
connects to the jack tip terminal
and the black earth wire to the
barrel or inside of the jack. Once
soldered, push the two wires
through the channel on the side of
the instrument and into the control
cavity and test the fit by inserting a
lead into the jack. The lead should
fit snugly with a pleasing clunk. If
it does you can remove the lead
and move on.
With all the components in place,
its now time to start hooking it all
up 14 . Follow your diagram and,
using the replacement trimmed
wire, join the switch and the tone
pot to the volume pot. At this point
replace the original earth wire
mentioned earlier to the casing on
the volume pot before soldering the
jack socket earth lead to the same
point using a heat sink to keep
the wires in place while the solder
cools. Then run a piece of black
earth wire from here to the tone
pot casing to complete the basic
circuit earthing loop. Keep it neat
and tidy, but allow sufficient slack
so components can be loosened
and removed for inspection or
maintenance without the need for
unsoldering.
Its now time to re-solder the
17
pickup wires 15 that you carefully

labelled earlier. Strip and twist a
10mm section of the earth wire
from each pickup lead and tin
them before attaching to the asyet-unused patch of tinning on the
volume pot casing things can get
a little crowded and fiddly at this
point, but its important to try and
avoid twisting the three earth wires
together if possible as it makes
removal of a single pickup a
serious pain.
Trim, strip and tin the remaining
power leads from the pickups and
attach to the switch as per your
new diagram for the double-sided
switch. Tighten the jack plate
screws, squirt a little Servisol switch
cleaner/lubricant into the openings
in the potentiometers casing, and
then plug in. If all is well then
replace the back plate and seat the
new knobs over the new widerdiameter pot shafts.
These new parts should stay
usable for many, many years if they
are regularly serviced and cleaned.
Check out our sidebar on page 64
for details of all the tools you need
you can see some of them the
pictured below 16 17 . Then follow
the instructions, and hopefully
youll be enjoying a guitar with a
clean signal path and a blissful lack
of earth hum and crackle.
Guitar_Dec12.indd 43
19/10/2012 16:36
PROJECT Superstrat
SUPERSTRAT PROJECT
HOT ROD MODS
Though you can buy a new Fender with almost any pickup configuration,
modifying a model to your own taste can still sometimes make perfect sense.
HUW PRICE helps convert a 50s reissue into a rock machine
he chances are that most guitarists

are would-be guitar designers to some
extent. Of course, we arent all inclined
to sit there with a paper and pencil
doodling body and headstock shapes,
but how many of us have found ourselves
dreaming about pickup swaps, wiring
schemes and various other modifications at
one time or another?.
It carries on through the generations but
these days guitar modders can try out their
ideas online before they buy the wrong parts

or do any damage to a precious instrument.
G&B reader Dafydd Jones used a website
called Kisekae (www.yajimastringworks.com)
to help him decide on the parts and the look
he wanted for his new Stratocaster project.
The design program allows you to drag and
drop guitar parts onto a any type of guitar
body to see how the finished guitar is going to
end up looking.
Starting out with a Mexican-made Fender
Stratocaster, Dafydd wanted a beefier and

more powerful instrument for the rock and
heavy blues styles he predominantly enjoys
playing. However he likes single coil tones
too, so he got in touch to see if we could
do something to help. We recommended a
Super 5-way switch that can be used with
coil-tappable humbuckers to provide a variety
of sounds. So once Dafydd had acquired
the parts, he turned up with his guitar, and
Project Superstrat was ready to go.
REMOVING THE SCRATCHPLATE
Before starting a project like this its wise to

assess the condition of the guitar. Since the
guitar was only a couple of years old the frets
were in good shape, and it was clean and well
cared for. Even so, we agreed to perform a basic
setup once all the parts were swapped over.
The first job was to remove the scratchplate
along with all the pickups and controls. We could
have recycled the volume and tone pots, but
keeping the scratchplate and controls intact
would give Dafydd the option of returning his
guitar to stock should he ever change his mind
or decide to sell it. Besides which, the original
Fender pots were 250K, which would probably
make a humbucker equipped guitar sound too

dark. To maintain clarity and definition, 500K or
even 1M pots are recommended for humbuckers.
On this particular guitar four wires needed to
be detached. Three had black insulation and were
the ground connections from the output jack, trem
spring claw and the conductive paint in the pickup
and control cavity routs. These were all soldered
to the casing of the volume pot and, since there
was so much slack wire, we decided to snip them
off rather than attempt to de-solder. The fourth
wire was the white insulated signal wire
connecting the centre tag of the volume pot to the
tip of the output jack.
Above: these are the wires you must de-solder or

snip to remove the scratchplate assembly
Superstrat PROJECT
FITTING THE NEW SCRATCHPLATE
One of the problems that everybody encounters

with aftermarket parts is that they dont always
line up perfectly, and some barely fit at all. The
Boston-branded scratchplate Dafydd had sourced
from Amazon was a decent quality item with a
subtle mint green hue. Even so there were some
minor issues.
With the original scratchplate removed I was
able to carry out a trial fit. The good news was
that the new guard looked fantastic on the
off-white body, but the bad news was that the
screw holes on the bass side of the neck didnt
line up. In fact, one was in a completely different
location. The screw holes on the treble side were
spot-on, but I would have been forced to screw the
others in at angles if I wanted to re-use the
original screw holes.
The solution was simple. Fold some sandpaper
over the end of a long wooden match and twist the
match to round over the corners. In a short while
you should have turned the end of the match into
a small rounded dowel. Next you should fill the
screw hole and cover the end of the match with
some strong wood glue that will set hard. I get the
desired results with Titebond original.
Next, push the rounded end of the match into
the glue-filled hole, snap it off about half an inch
proud of the surface, then gently tap it snug with
a soft mallet, taking great care not to dent the
finish or to snap the match. Simply repeat the
process for each screw hole and set the body aside
while the glue dries. Preferably this will be
overnight, to make sure.
When the glue had set, I used a Stanley knife
blade to cut the tops of the matches flush with the
body. If you try this, be extremely careful with the
finish and your fingers. Push the blade towards
the routs, not away, to ensure that if you do slip
and damage the finish, it will be in the area
hidden beneath the scratchplate.
The second problem we had to address was
that the holes in the scratchplate were too narrow
for the shafts of the CTS pots Dafydd had bought
for the project. Its quite a common problem when
modding guitars, because manufacturers in the
Far East tend to use metric measurements and US
manufacturers work with imperial.
We could have drilled out the holes to widen
them, but I prefer to use a reamer tool. To
compensate for the taper I reamed from both
sides, continually checking until I had just enough
width for the pot shafts.
Above: the new scratchplate was a good fit but the screw holes didnt quite line up
We squeezed wood glue into the screw holes and

tapped in rounded-off matchsticks to plug them
You can use a fresh blade to trim the tops of the

matchstick plugs flush with the finish
Rather than drill out the scratchplate holes to

widen them for the new pots, we used a reamer
Here the volume pot hole has been widened, and

were about to move onto the tone pot hole
MARKING OUT THE NEW PICKUP ROUT

Fenders Strat bodies are made with various
types of pickup routs. Obviously three single coil
routs are the traditional way, but some have
humbucker routs at the bridge and neck, while
others have the swimming pool rout that allows
the various factories to install any pickup
combination. Dafydds Strat was already routed
for a bridge humbucker, but fitting the neck
Left: masking tape was placed over the finish in
the area where wood needed to be removed to
accommodate the new pickup. We traced around
the pickup hole then added a bit of extra clearance
humbucker he wanted meant I had to remove

some wood to accommodate it.
Positioning the new scratchplate accurately on
the body showed that wood only needed to be
removed from the bridge side of the rout. I
covered that area of the body with masking tape,
re-positioned the scratchplate, and traced around
the scratchplates neck pickup cut-out. As you can
see from the photo, I then marked the intended
rout line an eighth of an inch away from the edge
of the pickup cut-out to gain a bit of extra
clearance, and finally drew two lines to join it up
with the edges of the existing rout.
PROJECT Superstrat
ROUTING OUT
Its possible to remove excess wood with a chisel,

but the proper way to do it is to use a router. I
bought mine used for a little under 15; in fact the
bearing guided router bits I used for this project
cost more than the router itself.
Routers are terrifyingly efficient tools and you
must never attempt to make cuts freehand. I
transferred the intended rout shape onto a piece of
scrap ply and cut it out with a jigsaw to make a
routing template. Try cutting just inside the lines
and tidying up the edges with a rasp, file or
sanding block to make them straight and smooth.
Dont worry about rounding off the corners the
bits rounded guide bearing will take care of that.
The routing template was clamped onto the
body to hold everything in position. Some people
use double-sided tape, but on our Strat the finish
under the scratchplate had a tendency to chip and
I didnt want to risk inadvertently removing the
finish when removing the router template.
Dont try cutting to full depth straight away. I
used a shallow 3/8" router bit for the first two cuts
and allowed the bearing to be guided by the router
template. I swapped over to my 1" bit for the final
cut: if I had attempted to use the 3/8" bit, there
would have been nothing to guide it as it reached
the wire channel area. I set the 1" bit 1/16" above
the bottom of the cavity and the guide bearing was
able to make contact with the template all the way
around. If you look at the photo, the areas of
exposed wood show how much was removed. The
wood we cut away only lightened the body by 20g
less than half the weight of a PP3 battery.
The router template might look a bit rough and

ready, but the pickup cavity will be smooth
For the very first pass we used a 3/8" router bit

and cut only to a one-third depth
We used the same 3/8" bit for the second cut

then swapped over to a 1" bit for the final cut.
When we had finished, the pickup cavity was big
enough to accommodate a humbucker. You can
see the router bits we used in the neck pocket
LOADING THE NEW SCRATCHPLATE
The first step towards completion involves fitting

the two 500K control pots and the Seymour
Duncan Super 5-Way switch. These switches are
double the thickness of a standard Strat switch,
so when installing one into Strat with a regular
control rout, the connection tags should be
oriented towards the centre otherwise it wont fit.
Its colour-coded for Seymour Duncan pickups,
but since Dafydd had chosen a Duncan TB-4
Trembucker for the bridge and a SH-4 for the
neck, that was fine (and do check out the
Seymour Duncan website its a fantastic
resource for modders, with clear diagrams of just
about any wiring configuration you can think of).
First I connected the recommended 0.047uF
capacitor for the tone pot. Since we were going
with two rather than three controls, I was able to
bridge the gap between the two pots with the
capacitor itself, point to point style. We used a
nice new old stock Russian paper-in-oil capacitor
bought from eBay. Taking inspiration from
Gibsons 1950s wiring schemes, I connected the
tone circuit to the output (centre) lug of the
volume pot. The idea is that any treble bleed
through the tone circuit remains constant
regardless of the position of the volume pot. Since
hot humbuckers tend to sound quite dark, I
soldered a 0.002uF treble bleed capacitor across
the input and output tags of the volume control;
this helps to retain clarity when the volume
control is turned down to clean up an amp.
With all the preliminary wiring done, it was
time to install the pickups and hook them up to
the Super 5-Way switch. Although Trembuckers
are supposedly designed for Strat-type guitars,
their mounting screws were too long for the depth
of the body routs. Sawing and filing metal in the
vicinity of a pickup is inadvisable because the
pickup will end up covered in metallic dust, so I
simply snipped the excess off with a strong pliers.
The switching arrangement Dafydd wanted
was neck humbucker, both pickups and bridge
humbucker, with single coils in the in-between
settings. I found the correct schematic on the
Seymour Duncan website and followed the
instructions. However, there was a problem:
rather than having the two inner coils on the in
between settings as described, we got the outer
coil of the neck humbucker. This could be because
The verdict
We were really pleased with the way this
Strat modification turned out, but the only
opinion that really mattered was that of
Dafydd, the owner. Heres what he had to
say: Ive always wanted to have a custom
build guitar, and now I do. It looks amazing
and the sound is stunning. All my mates
think that its fantastic, and even my parents
cannot believe the sound from it... so much
so they dont make me put my headphones
on all the time! Since Ive had it back, I
havent played any of my other guitars and I
have joined another band. It is an absolute
gem and thank you so much for
customising it for me.
the JB SH-4 Dafydd bought was actually a bridge

rather than a neck unit. Either way it worked out
well because we got the fatter-sounding neck coil
under the octave harmonic along with some extra
tonal variation because the single coils were spaced
wider apart. The polepieces of the neck pickup lined
up perfectly too.
With the three ground wires reconnected to the
body of the volume control and the white jack tip
wire re-connected to the centre lug of the volume
pot, the time had come to put the guitar back
together. Whenever you rewire a guitar, especially
when its a wiring scheme you havent used before,
it makes sense to test everything before screwing
down the scratchplate and re-stringing; that way, if
you have made a mistake, fixing it will be a lot less
work. Thankfully the wiring diagram we
downloaded was so clear that everything worked
first time. However we did feel that the 0.047uF
capacitor rolled off too much treble, and we
eventually changed it for a 0.022uF.
Above: the pots and Super 5-Way switch were

installed and initial connections made first. Note
the treble bleed capacitor on the volume pot and
the way the tone capacitor is wired point-to-point
The pickup wires have been soldered to the switch

as per the Seymour Duncan schematic. We prefer
to keep cable runs as short as possible and the
excess green wire we snipped off was used to
connect the switch to the volume pot
#40045 - Minifoogers GaB half _Layout 1 25/10/2013 10:45 Page 1
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WORKSHOP Headstock break
HEADSTOCK BREAK REPAIR
ON WITH ITS HEAD

Attempting to fix a headstock break on a valuable guitar is not
advisable, but here DAVE WALSH shows how you can save a cheapo
beater thats been beheaded with a few tools and some know-how
This Baby Taylor toppled

gently onto a carpeted floor
and the headstock snapped
right across in a diagonal line
following the grain. It goes to
show how careful you need to
be with mahogany necks
1
2 This recent Gibson J-200

reissue met its doom during a
radio recording session. Its a
short, clean break, but itll be
near-impossible to completely
disguise the glue line in the
pale-coloured maple
3 A natty way to hang onto
bridge pins and saddle is
simply to tape them in place
uitar necks often have of

a weak spot just below the
headstock. Its caused by
a number of factors: the
direction of the wood grain,
the truss-rod routing particularly
if the rod is adjustable from the
headstock and the amount of
string pressure on the head itself.
The majority of these breaks
occur on mahogany-necked guitars.
Mahogany is a fantastic tone wood
and easy to carve but its relatively
soft in comparison to maple,
the other common neck wood,
so if youre in the market for a
secondhand Les Paul, always check
this area for evidence of a repair.
On some guitars it doesnt take
much more than a slip off a strap
or a gentle fall from a stand, and

bang the headstock cracks open or
breaks right off.
Neck breaks generally fall into
three categories: firstly, a clean
type where the headstock is still
attached and flaps open (this
is the easiest to fix, especially if
repaired immediately); a diagonal
split through the headstock again
simple if caught early; and the
worst of the bunch, a completely
broken-off headstock. If the break
is badly splintered or contains
multiple fractures, the repair
may involve routing and inlaying
wooden reinforcing splints into the
neck and headstock.
If youre unlucky enough to
experience a break, immediately
detune the strings down to slack

and place the guitar gently in a hard
case together with any loose chips
of wood or paint, all of which are
vital to restoring the guitar to its
former glory.
Were going to look at a couple
of headstock breaks a mahogany
headstock crack on a Baby Taylor
and a less common maple break
on a Gibson J-200. The Taylor
arrived with a brutal-looking split
diagonally across the headstock and
through the A tuner hole 1 . In
fact the head is held together almost
purely by the plastic Lexan face
veneer, which has prevented the
head from spitting clean in two. On
the J-200 the break has fractured
with a smaller, shallower crack
Headstock break WORKSHOP
above the more obvious break 2 .

How accurately a crack will go back
together is the one determining
factor to how successful a repair
will be. In both cases, using a
plastic headstock face has prevented
a more serious break and both
should prove pretty straightforward
to fix with the correct adhesive and
clamping method.
Start by removing the strings
and use a piece of masking tape to
secure the bridge pins and saddle
in the bridge 3 . Next, remove the
tuners and truss rod cover, ensuring
that you dont add any additional
stress to the headstock as you do so,
then lay the guitar face down on a
flat, soft surface.
The crack must be clean and free
from dust, dirt and any grease. A
bit of patience is essential before
slapping a load of adhesive in and
whacking on a couple of clamps.
Not all cracked headstocks want
to go back together as easily they
came apart, and it can be very
difficult getting the edges to line
up perfectly for the entire length
of the separation. You must ensure
that the surface on either side of
the break will line up and come
together when the clamps are
on. Fortunately, on both of these
acosutics most of the edges are
intact and there are no missing
pieces of wood.
Once the damage has been
assessed, its time to make some
clamping cauls. Cauls are essential
you must never attach a steel
clamp directly to the headstock

and I often fabricate individual
cauls for specific jobs. They can
be made from many different
materials, but were using 10mm
MDF covered with 5mm cork sheet.
These materials are cheap and easy
to source; cork is firm enough to be
clamped hard but also gives a little
at the curved neck/headstock join.
Begin by making a caul to cover
the headstock face. Loosely trace
around the headstock and cut the
caul with a bandsaw if you have
one, or a jigsaw or a coping saw
4 . Sand any rough-sawn edges
smooth and lay the caul flat onto
some 5mm cork sheet (dont pull
the tiles off the bathroom floor; its
readily available in your local art
shop). Mark around the caul and
cut with scissors or a craft knife.
Attach the cork to the MDF caul
using double-sided sticky tape 5 .
Repeat the process for the rear of
the headstock, taking into account
the differences in shape and length.
We made a standard oblong for the
Baby Taylor and a shorter, wider
caul for the rear of the J-200. Cauls
dont need to be a work of art: they
just need to cover the break area
and have sufficient width to accept
as many clamps as necessary.
Three or four clamps will be used
for an average repair. To prevent
any adhesive from sticking to the
cauls, cover them in a non-stick
or adhesive-resistant substance.
By a strange quirk of fate, the thin
transparent plastic pouch that many
guitar strings come packed in is

ideal. Cut the packing to a nice neat
square (trim off any ridges, too) and
then attach it to the cork side on the
caul using masking tape or doublesided tape. Now the caul is ready for
use, and any adhesive that escapes
the clamped crack and there will
be some can be easily removed.
Okay, now DRY run the
clamping. This is an essential stage,
as once the adhesive is applied it is
very difficult to assess how well the
clamping works 6 , 7 . Once youre
happy that the cauls and clamps
will close the crack tightly, mix the
adhesive. We are using Araldite,
a two-pack epoxy resin which is
actually stronger than wood when
set but also has excellent gap-filling
properties and can be sanded flat.
Dont be tempted to use white wood
glue it simply isnt strong enough.
For Araldite (use the slow-setting
blue/white pack only) mix equal
resin and hardener together on a
scrap MDF offcut to achieve a thick
paste 8 Be careful this stuff
is an industrial-strength bonding
product. Mix enough for the job,
but theres no need for messy haste
as the adhesive remains usable and
fluid for at least an hour, depending
on ambient temperature.
Apply the adhesive into the crack
using a feeler gauge (the 0.05 to
1mm type used for spark plug
adjustments) and/or a spatula. Its
vital to get the adhesive all the way
to the bottom of the crack a
syringe can be used, but for our >
4 Cutting out the clamping

caul for the headstock face. A
handsaw would do fine
5 The finished front-face
caul with cork simply attached
by double-sided tape
6 Heres a rear view of the
dry run. You need to make
sure the crack will close tight
7 Another dry run, this time
on the Taylor. Were using a
full-length caul for the rear
8 Slow-setting two-pack
Araldite is hardcore stuff. Mix
the glue very thoroughly
9 You need to get the glue
right into the crack. A metal
feeler gauge is a good tool
TOOLS
Araldite slow setting epoxy
resin (blue & white tubes)
White spirit
10mm MDF sheet
7mm cork sheet
Set of G clamps
Plastic string pouch
600 and 1200 grade wet/
dry paper
T-Cut and soft lint-free
polishing cloth
Feeler gauges
Artists scalpel or
craft knife
Small file set
Double-sided sticky tape
SAFETY TIP
White spirit is extremely
flammable. Any paper towels
soaked in it need to be
carefully disposed of in a bin
OUTSIDE your home
WORKSHOP Headstock break
10
10 We ended up using three

G clamps to cover the Taylors
headstock-long long crack
11 Clean away surplus glue
with white spirit, and after
an hour you can remove the
clamps and cauls, clean again,
and then reapply the clamps.
Repeat several times
12 After 24 hours, the glue
will be hardened enough to
allow filing away of the excess
13 Use 600 and 1200 wetand-dry to smooth the crack
without removing any finish
14 The Taylors tough poly
finish doesnt need quite the
delicate treatment of the J-200
15 Without a pro polishing
wheel, you can simply use
T-Cut and a lint-free cloth
16 The J-200s nitro-cellulose
finish needs care - you could
easily sand through it
17 The Taylors mahogany
neck hides the repair really
well. Youd hardly know
18 Not invisible, as we
predicted, but the repair is
certainly stronger than the
original wood
11
breaks a thin feeler gauge was

adequate 9 . Now push the join
together. The excess adhesive will
be squeezed out, so get ready with
some kitchen towel and a small
bottle of white spirit to wipe away
the excess. Keep cleaning it away
and ensure that none has leaked
onto other parts of the guitar. Clean
any adhesive from your hands and
then line up the cauls and apply the
first clamp to hold them together
like a sandwich, with the headstock
as the meat/filling 10 .
Apply the remaining clamps and
be sure to quickly wipe away any
remaining squeezed-out glue 11
before placing the guitar onto a
flat surface with the clamps taking
the weight. Thoroughly clean any
adhesive from the feeler gauge and
other tools.
Wait about an hour and then
carefully remove the clamps and
cauls holding the join together
as you do so and, using white
spirit, wipe away any adhesive that
has squeezed out (this reduces
the amount of cleaning up once
12
the adhesive is dry and the clamps

are off). Also remove the excess
from the plastic covering on the
cauls, and re-apply the clamps.
This can be repeated periodically
for approximately two hours before
the curing process starts in earnest.
After any final clamps adjustments,
leave the job to dry.
Now wait for 24 hours for the
adhesive to set and that means
a complete 24 hours, not just
overnight then remove the
clamps and cauls, and youll find
a solid headstock once again with
small ripples of adhesive along
the original break line. Remove
these ripples with careful filing
using a small file before sanding
with 600 and lightly-soaked 1200
grade wet/dry paper 12 , 13 . The
aim is to flatten the join without
removing any of the original finish.
Work carefully a little patience
will improve the overall result
enormously. Bear in mind that
thin nitro finishes blend nicely
back into each other, whereas thick
polyester is far tougher to rub
13
14
15
16
17
18
through or feather together. Once

the area is flattened 14 it can be
polished either on a polishing
wheel or with T-Cut, a soft lint-free
cloth and some elbow grease to
achieve a smooth, blemish-free
surface 15 , 16 .
At this point the guitars are
perfectly playable and the headstock
areas stronger than ever 17 , 18 .
Once the joins and surrounding
wood have completely settled
(usually after two to three months)
the finish could be touched in to
hide the repairs. The Baby Taylor
could have the headstock bursted
in to cover the break but the clear
finished maple on the J-200 will be
a lot trickier and any refinish work
here could draw more attention to
the repair. In general, I advise
against refinishing as the damage is
to the rear of each instrument.
Once again, do not experiment on a
high-quality, vintage or collectible
guitar: for that, its always best to go
and see a good luthier. But on a
cheap old plunker or a laminated
import, have a go at it!
WORKSHOP Inlays
INLAYS WORKSHOP
BLING IT ON HOME
Pearl! Its the touch of glamour that makes a
really classy guitar complete. DAVE KING has some
insiders tips on how to shape some showy shell
t our repair shop we often

get requests to personalise
peoples instruments, which
can involve anything from
complete rebuilds to new
fret markers. Here, were going to
take a look at what can be done with
different inlays.
Fretboard markers, side dots
and all other decorative inlays
come in many different shapes,
sizes 1 and materials: mother
of pearl in black, white and gold
2 , abalone in various reds and
greens, and alternative materials
such as malachite and lapis lazuli.
Theres also AbaLam 3 , a material

invented by Chuck Erickson (aka
The Duke Of Pearl) that helps
conserve our existing stocks of
shell. Its made from abalone and
mother of pearl shells that are not
thick enough to cut solid blanks
from. Very thin slices are cut from
the outside of the curved shells,
epoxy is applied between the layers
and then they are pressed flat.
Because the slices are so thin they
can be flattened without breaking
and made into many different
sized sheets of varying thicknesses.
AbaLam does have its critics,
though: you can go into the layers

of epoxy when sanding, which
doesnt polish to the same finish
as the shell and can look unsightly.
Still, with care this can be avoided,
and youll have the advantage of
being able to cut far larger inlay
pieces at once (its available in sheet
sizes up to 200mm square). Its
also available in strips for purfling,
which saves a vast amount of time.
Normally solid shell would have
to be cut by hand to go around the
outside of a guitar, but AbaLam can
simply be broken into the purfling
channel and filled with glue, and >
1 Pre-cut inlays Dots, stars

and flakes can all be bought
2 Pearl comes in many
shades, as do minerals
3 AbaLam Aka laminated
abalone. Very convenient
indeed
WORKSHOP Inlays
4 AbaLam on a Dave
King guitar The results are
impressive
5 The emulsion trick Makes
marking out so much easier
6 Drill bit mods.
Taking a 1/4 (6.35mm) bit
down to 6.1mm
7 Drilling the holes Doublecheck and triple-check first

8 Depth stop. A homemade
device for hand drills
9 Colour match Adding
wood dust to the mixed

epoxy glue
10 Side dots. Improvised
hand drill reaches the tricky
places
11 Jewellers saw. This is the
tool for cutting pearl inlays
12 Ready to cut. Shape is
scribed in white paint on
the pearl
the when its finished the breaks are

almost impossible to see 4 .
Many vintage guitars have no
fretboard markers or side dots or
both have fallen out. Well have a
look at fitting fretboard markers
first. Before you start drilling holes,
decide which positions youre going
to put them in. On guitars youll
have a choice of the 3rd, 5th, 7th,
9th, 12th, 15th,
17th, 19th, 21st
and 24th frets (if
you have one).
These are all the
harmonics on
a guitar string
(though mandolins have one at the
10th rather than the 9th). Im using
a new fretboard here, but the same
principles will apply to retro-fitting.
Whenever Im fitting inlays I
always start by painting the surface
of the board with white emulsion
5 for visibilitys sake as its just
about impossible to draw anything
on a piece of ebony that you can
see. Let the emulsion dry and then
start to mark out. Importantly,

check twice . Its not uncommon
for certain guitar makers (myself)
to be up until three in the morning
before a guitar show putting an
intricate design between the 2nd
and 3rd fret to cover a hole that has
been drilled in the wrong place!
Now well scribe the centre of the
hole to give the centre-point drill
AbaLam is a material made from

abalone and mother of pearl that is
available in time saving strips and sheets
bit a good start. The most common
size of fret marker is either 6mm
or quarter-inch (6.35mm). The
problem is that a 6mm dot will not
easily go into a hole produced by a
6mm centre-point drill bit there
needs to be some clearance. In time
the fretboard might well shrink
a little due to climate change or
incorrectly dried timber, but the
dots will not. This can result in the
10
11
12
fretboard splitting along its length

between the markers (more so on
larger inlays). To overcome this I
use either a quarter-inch bit with
the edges very carefully ground off
using an oil stone to reduce the
cutting circle to about 6.1mm 6
, or first drill the holes with a 6mm
centre-bit then use a 6.1mm metal
drill to take out the clearance. For
quarter-inch holes
youd need to
use the closest
metric metal drill
(6.3mm).
Im working on
new fretboards
here so Im able to use a pillar drill
with the depth-stop set correctly to
ensure the markers go in level with
the board. If youre putting markers
into a completed guitar youll have
to use a hand drill, so here I always
use a piece of dowel with a hole
drilled through it to act as a depth
stop 8 . For glue I use epoxy resin
mixed with dust from the timber
that Im inlaying to ensure that any
Inlays WORKSHOP
13
14
15
16
17
18
gaps will not be visible 9 . Araldite

gives a little, which will allow for
expansion and contraction. Make
sure the epoxy is mixed well before
you start to add in the dust; put
enough glue in the hole to allow
for some squeeze-out around the
edges, and leave it to dry before
sanding down. If youre planning
to install side dots 10 , mark them
all out very carefully and scribe the
centre of the hole. A hand drill is
too big for this job, so Ive made up
a piece of dowel with the correct
size drill bit glued into the end.
With this youll also be able to get to
the fretboard past the body join.
While thats all drying we can
try cutting some of our own shell.
Shell is very brittle and needs to be
cut with the correct tool: a jewellers
piercing saw 11 .
The more teeth per inch, the
finer the cut: saw grades for shell
would generally be from size 1/0
to 3/0, or 48 to 56 teeth per inch. I
generally use a 2/0 small enough
to turn a sharp radius corner, but
not so fine as to snap all the time.
Youll need a drawing of whatever
youre going to cut (a few minutes
on the web will find many patterns).
Right now I need to put a triangular
inlay just in front of a nut, so Ill
scribe the shape on the whitepainted shell 12 and then set to
work with a supporting rest that
Ive made out of a scrap timber (the
slot will become worn, so make
a new one from time to time). I
also have a vacuum attached to
the support rest 15 : shell dust is

carcinogenic so its very important
to wear a face mask as well. Hold
the shell firmly and always cut on
the downstroke; with practice youll
soon realise simple shapes are
not difficult. Straight-sided pieces
like my triangle are hard to cut
accurately, but easy to clean up with
a sanding stick 13 .
For my headstock logo Ive
glued a paper template to the shell
blank with a little superglue. When
cutting shapes, try and cut into
the corners from both directions
to avoid radiuses where you turn
the saw around; uneven sides can
be cleaned up later with a fine file.
I now have three pieces I need to
glue together before inlaying. A
non-stick frying pan provides a
good surface 16 ; superglue doesnt
stick to Teflon. Lay the pieces on the
pans surface and run glue run into
the joints. Now the logo is in one
piece I can lay it on my headstock
and scribe around it.
I cut out my first-ever Tree Of
Life entirely with chisels and a
scalpel because I wasnt aware of
Dremels 17 , which along with
the inlay cutters from Stew-Mac
are the perfect tool for inlaying.
When using any hand-held router
remember to always push against
the direction of the cutter, so if
youre looking from above the
router with the cutter going
clockwise and cutting with the left
edge of the cutter you would be
pushing away from you; if cutting
with the right hand edge of the

cutter youd pulling towards you.
Remember not to make the recess
too tight. The inlay should fall in:
too tight and you run the risk of
cracking the fretboard. Glue your
inlays in the same way as the dots
18 , using plenty of glue and once
dry they can be sanded down flush
with the surface. Its fiddly work but
it all can be done with just a few
simple tools. If done carefully with
patience youll be surprised at the
quality of the results that can be
achieved.
For shell supplies in the UK,
try www.smallwonder-music.
co.uk, 01435 830 509. Other places
of interest based in the USA
include www.stewmac.com, www.
luthiersupply.com, and
www.robinsoninlays.com
13 Straight edges. Easy to

finish off with a sanding stick
14 Scribing the triangle. Note
the full-sized handheld router
15 Cutting jig. Fragile pearl
needs this supporting rest
16 The frying pan method.
Best be stealthy with this one
17 Ready for the Dremel.
Shape is marked out on
the head
18 Gluing the inlay in.
Nothing wrong with plenty
of glue
19 All finished All dry, and
sanded down to a fine finish
19
PROJECT DIY pickups
PICKUP PROJECT
ROLLING YOUR OWN

Hand-wound Alnicos have never come cheap which is why Spencer
Mumford of Shed Pickups first began winding his own. In this
article from 2004 HUW PRICE took tips from a fledgling pickup maker
s a callow youth I once tried

to wind my own pickup. I
bought some magnet wire
(God only knows what
gauge), stripped the broken
coil off a 1970s Strat pickup with a
razor blade, and started wrapping. I
had read somewhere that pre-CBS
pickups had 8350 turns of wire
compared to 7600 on later models,
and I was also aware that they
were hand wound. Unfortunately
I took that literally, so there I
was wrapping the wire: one, two,
three it took me about a fortnight.
Eventually the coil was so massive
that I couldnt fit the cover on, and
inevitably, it didnt even work.
Fast forward 20 years, and
Im reviewing pickups for Guitar
magazine. When talking to
manufacturers such as Fralin,
Experience and Bare Knuckles,
certain key phrases keep cropping
up; scatter-winding, alnico slugs
and vulcanised fibreboard flats.

It seems that many sound-hounds
believe that pickups from the 1950s
and 1960s still set the tone, but
through careful analysis of the
materials used and the construction
methods employed, todays pickup
gurus believe it is possible to
replicate the sonic characteristics of
vintage pickups.
Why Handmade Pickups

Sound Different
The standard industrial magnets
of the era were made from an
alloy of aluminium, nickel and
cobalt called alnico that comes in
various forms, all with different
magnetic characteristics. Alnico
V is the most common but some
manufacturers are recreating the
sounds of the early 1950s using
weaker alnico II and III (rumour
has it that the best-sounding PAF
humbuckers were loaded with
alnico IV). As usual it all came

down to economics, and as alnico
became increasingly expensive,
manufacturers started using much
cheaper ceramic magnets. Sound
quality is influenced by magnetic
strength, and since ceramic
polepieces (slugs) are stronger than
alnicos, they produce a brighter,
more edgy sound.
Major manufacturers always seek
to maximise efficiency, and by the
mid 60s Fender and Gibson had
decided that it would be cheaper to
machine-wind their pickups. This
produces an even coil that looks
very neat but it is thought to have
sonic drawbacks. Hand-wound
pickups are actually machinewound, but the wire is guided onto
the bobbin by hand. This introduces
more irregularity into the wind,
which according to Lindy Fralin
results in a looser coil with more air
gaps. You need a good grasp of flux
DIY pickups PROJECT
lines, capacitance and inductance to

fully understand this phenomenon,
but the bottom line is that handwound or scatter-wound
pickups are transparent and clear,
but never brittle or edgy.
Materials
Most of the bits and pieces that you
need to build pickups are easy to
acquire. Allparts ( 0845 345 5951)
sell vulcanised fibreboard pickup
flats for P and J basses, T-style and
S-style pickups as well as all the
stuff for humbuckers. You can buy
small quantities of magnet wire
1 from Scientific Wire (020 8505
0002). What gauge? Well, AWG
42 (American Wire Gauge) was
standard for Gibson and Fender,
although some early Teles were
wound with AWG 43, and Gretschs
DeArmonds used AWG 44.
Allparts will supply Fender-style
cloth covered or PAF-style braided
lead-out wire.
Magnetic slugs are more of a
problem; they are obtainable, its
simply that industrial suppliers
have minimum orders. Eclipse
Magnets (0114 225 0600) can
supply alnico V and will cut it to
length, but make sure you ask for
the slugs to be pre-magnetised.
Their minimum order is 50, so
you could be making pickups for
your friends, and their friends,
too. Magdev in Swindon (01793
425600) offers a wider range of
alnico rods for single-coils and
blocks for humbuckers, and their
minimum order is 23.50. Finally,
you need to buy some paraffin wax
2 from your local hardware shop
for potting purposes your pickup
kit is now complete.
1 Its a wrap A spool of

magnet wire, ready to go
build a winding machine from

commonly available parts 3 . First
off youll need an electric motor;
like many DIY pickup builders
Spencer chose one from a sewing
machine. Because he planned to
build the machine on a plank of
chipboard, he took an angle grinder
to the sewing machine to make
a solid metal base for mounting
the motor, but you could screw
the motor down if you were using
a solid wood base. He used the
original sewing machine drive belt
and attached this to the spindle
that was used for winding cotton
bobbins. This was mounted on an
L-shaped bracket and a 10mm
shaft was pushed over the end
that is used to mount the bobbin
for winding. A little further back
Spencer arranged two more L
brackets facing each other with a
second 10mm tube fixed between
them. In the photo you can see that
two rubber doorstops have been
drilled through and pushed over
the tube. The wire passes between
these, and the gap between them
can be adjusted to stop the wire
going over the edge of the bobbin.
Next: speed control. At first
2 Paraffin wax Yucky stuff,

but good for potting
Spencer tried using the sewing

machines foot pedal but that
wasnt sensitive enough, so he
ended up using an electric fan
controller from B&Q (a dimmer
switch might burn out). The black
insulation tape around the pickup
mounting spindle holds a small
magnet, and next to this you can
see the magnetic sensor unit for an
ordinary digital speedometer that
Spencer bought from his local bike
shop. The speedo is attached to the
yellow mains cable just behind the
wire guide, and Spencer uses this to
gauge the number of turns 19km
equates to a DC resistance of 7K.
The wire spool sits on the floor
underneath the winding machine
and passes up through a 90 degree
elbow bend purchased from B&Qs
plumbing section.
Last but not least is a car
compass, which Spencer uses to
check the polarity of his polepieces.
A Bit Of A Wind Up
Allparts fibreboard pickup flats
come ready-pierced with slug holes
that are a little too narrow. 4 A
5mm drill bit is used to widen
them, and after checking for
>
3 The infernal machine

Spencer Mumfords
homemade winding rig, based
on a sewing machine
The Infernal Machine

DIY pickup builder Spencer
Mumford has figured out how to
PROJECT DIY pickups
4 Adapting the flats Drilling

out the holes to 5mm
5 Polarity check. A car
magnet will do just fine
6 Hammering in the slugs,
gently does it
polarity 5 the slugs are gently

tapped into the base (north up for
Strat-style pickups) using a resin
hammer. Vintage Fender pickup
slugs were bevelled around their
upper edges, but slugs direct from
a magnet supplier have squared
edges. If you want the rounded
vintage look, secure a slug in
an electric drill, set the drill to
maximum speed and gently touch
the edge of the polepiece against a
fairly smooth file and round over
the edges. You might prefer to
secure the drill in a workbench and
hold the file by hand.
If youre making a staggered
set, make sure the slugs go into the
correct holes and tap on the upper
flat 6 . Spencer does his by eye,
judging the slug height by placing
a cover over the unwound pickup,
but many people use spacers each
side of the slugs. As a guide, the B
string pole should be just below the
top surface of the plastic cover.
The next step is to lacquer the
slugs between the flats to stop the
coil shorting out. Nail varnish is
ideal; colour is optional. Once dry,
a 2mm bolt is passed from the base
through the centre hole in the flats
7 (you might need to drill this
one out a little, too). This passes
through an un-drilled doorstop and
a washer and nut is used to centre
7 Centre bolt. A 2mm bolt

holds the flats together
8 Ready to roll The
completed bobbin is mounted
to the electric motor and
carefully centre
8 and secure the bobbin before

it is pushed over the 10mm shaft
attached to the cotton bobbin shaft.
Spencer then starts the motor to
see how square the bobbin is to the
shaft, and makes fine adjustments
to minimise wobble. The 42-gauge
wire is fed through the plumbing
pipe, threaded through the eyelet in
the bottom flat and secured with a
small piece of masking tape on the
base of the pickup. More masking
tape is used to cover the two metal
eyelets to prevent the delicate wire
snagging on them and snapping.
After setting the spacer rubbers,
the first few turns are made by hand
before engaging the motor. Spencer
allows the wire to pass between his
finger and thumb, holding the wire
downwards so that it passes over
the spacer spindle. Some pickup
winders prefer to use felt to tension
the wire and Spencer reports that
the Fuzzy Felt shorts from his sons
Noddy set works well, but he prefers
to pinch the wire gently between his
fingers. If the wire starts to feel hot,
it means the tension is too great
and you should allow the wire to
move more freely.
Start with the motor running
fairly slowly and build up speed as
you become more confident. Its
easy to see the wire as it passes
onto the bobbin, and the tensioning
hand is also used to guide the wire

slowly and evenly side to side to
side, carefully building up the
layers gradually.
Although Spencer uses a
kilometre gauge to regulate his
windings, its possible to buy
counters to accurately track
the number of turns. Some
manufacturers check the DC
resistance several times towards the
end of a wind by carefully removing
some of the magnet wire insulation
and measuring using a multimeter;
digital ones are best. If more turns
are required, some lacquer is
sprayed on to restore the insulation.
When you have finished
winding, the loose wire is cut,
threaded through the second eyelet
and secured with masking tape,
and then the wound pickup is
removed from the spindle. Some
manufacturers prefer to thread
the loose ends of the magnet wire
several times and even tie a knot to
secure them.
Now the doorstop and bolt are
removed, and after the ends of the
cloth-covered lead-out wires have
been pre-tinned they are inserted
into the two eyelets and soldered.
Scientific Wires magnet wire is
solderable so you dont need to strip
the insulation layer off first, but
remember to use a small soldering
DIY pickups PROJECT
iron tip and its best to work

quickly, because the magnet wire
can burn through.
Once the solder has cooled, check
the DC resistance of the pickup with
a multimeter; again, a good digital
one is best. If you are getting no
reading at all, try a little more heat
on the solder joints to make sure the
insulation has melted off. Once you
have confirmed a satisfactory DC
resistance, trim the ends of the wires
under the bottom flat and push the
other ends through the small hole
between the eyelets.
Potty Time
Of course you want your pickups
to wail, but you dont want them
to squeal. Microphonic feedback is
a nasty thing, and it occurs when
the coils in a pickup start to vibrate
from sound pressure. It is common
practice to wax pot pickups, to
solidify and protect the coil.
There is much debate about
this practice and some claim
that a properly-wound coil
shouldnt need potting, but this
requires correct and consistent
tension something only the
best pickup makers can achieve.
Slight microphony might even be
desirable because the pickup will
be more sensitive to the acoustic
properties of the instrument, but
11
9 Tele-style pickup ready

for baseplate gluing
10
this can get you into trouble if you

use distortion pedals or high-gain
amps. Seymour Duncan Antiquity
PAFs are unpotted, like Gibsons
1950s originals and their current
Burstbuckers, so you could try
your pickups unpotted to see if you
experience problems or not.
Potting is very simple. Pour some
water into the bottom of a saucepan
and place a Pyrex glass bowl into
the saucepan, making sure it
doesnt touch the bottom of the
pan. Put paraffin wax into the bowl
12 (some people like to add 20 per
cent beeswax), bring the water to
the boil over a low flame and the
wax will quickly melt. Paraffin wax
is flammable, so be sure to keep a
fire extinguisher handy. Turn off
the heat and submerge the pickup
and the cloth-covered wires 13 . You
should see tiny air bubbles escaping
from the sides of the coil and from
the ends of the slugs.
After a minute or two this will
stop and the pickup can be placed
on a non-stick surface to cool
(according to Spencer, the cover of
Guitar is perfect). Check you still
have a DC reading and pop your
new pickup into your guitar.
Its A Wrap
After watching Spencer wind a
T-style bridge pickup he suggested
12
10 First try Huw Price

attempts the task himself
that I try making myself one

for my Strat. Barring one scary
moment that required some
expert untangling, I successfully
completed my first pickup and I
couldnt wait to get it into my guitar.
Im chuffed because it sounds very
good. The highs are sweet and
clear, the bass is well defined and it
doesnt squeal.
Spencer estimates that single coil
pickups cost around 12 to make,
and humbuckers will set you back
around 20. When you consider
that a winding machine will cost
you around 50 to put together
and that the cheapest off-the-shelf
hand-wound pickup will set you
back around 70, rolling your
own seems like it could be a good
way to go. If you have a Strat, for
example, you could wind a hot set
for rock gigs and a vintage set for
blues, country or funk just mount
them on two separate scratchplates
and swap them as required. If they
sound really good, you could even
start making them for your mates
Since this article was first published
in 2004 Spencer Mumford has
become a highly respected boutique
pickup maker and his Shed Pickups
are now widely used by many top
players. Go to www.shed pickups.
com to see how hes progressed
11 Dying the wire Vintage

look for cloth-cover wire
12 Melting the paraffin
Technically, a Bain Marie
13 Potting the pickup
Soaking the completed
unit in wax helps prevent
microphonic feedback
13
WORKSHOP Pro tools
DIY WORKSHOP
PROFESSIONAL TOUCH
Most of our workshops have looked at repairs and set-ups you can do at
home with tools available on the high street. DAVE KING looks at a couple
of specialist gizmos that could take your luthiery to new levels
Pro tools WORKSHOP
pecialist tools can make your

life easier and a lot more
efficient. The purpose of this
feature is to introduce you to
a few that have become really
indispensable for me..
Our repair subject is a Martin
000-18. Its a guitar thats had a
hard life. The neck is bent and is in
need of straightening, which will
help get the action down a little, and
the frets are worn out and all need
replacing: Generally, this guitar is
in need of a little love and care.
The first tool were going to have
a look at is a pair of fret-pullers 1
from Stewart McDonalds in the
USA. For years Ive been using
pincers with the face ground off to
give a flush surface to get under the
frets, but this tool is purpose-made
for the job and will pull the frets
out quickly and efficiently. One
tip: soak the fretboard with lemon
oil 2 before pulling the frets, as
this will help stop the tangs of the
fretwire breaking out the surface of
the wood.
Once the frets are out, a close

inspection of the board reveals a
concave gap under the straightedge, which means a bent-forward
neck. Many old instruments like
this Martin have no adjustable
truss rods, and the fretboards are
generally not thick enough to allow
us to simply plane them flat, so we
need to try and flatten them some
other way.
A neck heater from Luthiers
Mercantile International (again
from the US) makes this a very
simple job. As you can see from
the picture 3 , its a hollow, flat
steel bar with a heating element
inside that can be heated up to
about 250 degrees centigrade,
though to straighten our neck
well only need a temperature of
100 degrees. The crucial point
here in italics, just to make sure
you dont miss it is dont get it
too hot! Im using a multimeter to
measure the temperature 4 , but
its much cheaper to buy a surface
thermometer from one of the
luthier suppliers. Any more heat

than this and you could well pull
the fretboard off rather than just
soften the glue.
Ive clamped the element to the
fretboard with a packer under one
end 5 ; this way, when it gets up to
temperature, the glue joint between
the fretboard and the neck will
soften, and this in turn will allow
the neck to be pulled back, getting
rid of the bow. The heater will need
to be left on for about an hour to
soften the glue sufficiently; once
the glue has softened and the neck
has moved, the heater needs to be
turned off and left to cool, giving
time for the glue to harden. I leave
it all in the clamps for a further 24
hours, just to make sure.
Next, fretboard tools 6 . We
do have quality retailers in the
UK, such as David Dykes Luthier
Supplies (01435 812315) and
Touchstone Tonewoods (01737
221064), but the specialist tools
were talking about here are only
available direct from the US,
>
1 Fret-pullers for removing

worn-out frets
2 A dab of lemon oil will
prevent chipping the board
3 A Neck heater for
straightening non-adjustable
necks, or even correcting
back-bow. A dangerous item:
use with care
4 This multimeter checks
the temperature stays around
100 degrees
5 A packing piece that is
just the right depth to get rid
of the bow
6 These neck tools
will speed up neck jobs
considerably
7 Sanding blocks carved to

exact radii for fingerboards
8 A fret slot saw that cuts
on the pull. Comes complete
with depth stop
9 The Jaws is brilliant handheld fret press.
No more hammers!
WORKSHOP Pro tools
10
10 The Jaws 2 is another Fret

Press. This one combines the
fret caul with a big F clamp
to give access to the upper
fingerboard. Packing bits are
included
11 Packing blocks A bit of
improvisation around the
octave
12 Upper frets Jaws 2 also
works through the soundhole
13 Caul close-up Concave,

and curved to press the
frets in
14 Finished job One Martin
fretboard ready for another
50 years
11
and all these come from Stewart

MacDonalds (www.stewmac.com).
Youll see from the picture that I
have a selection of profiled sanding
blocks to help me clean up the
fretboard 7 . These blocks will
produce the correct radius on the
fretboard, which will later tie up
with the fretting tools. Remember,
many modern instruments have
a compound radius which gets
shallower the further down the
fretboard you go, and for these you
wont be able to use the sanding
blocks: thankfully, the old Martin
we have on the bench this month
has the same radius all the way
down the fretboard. Ive used a
12" radius block with 180-grit
glasspaper stuck to it, and you can
go on to 320 grit to get a mirror
finish. You wont always get all of
the wear marks out, so remove
just enough to give the frets a flat
surface to seat on.
Once the fretboard is levelled
youll need to clean out the fret
slots, and possibly make them a
tad deeper. Another specialist tool
is a fret slot saw 8 . You can now
get one that has a stop on it, which
can be adjusted to the correct depth
to ensure you dont go too deep. It
also cuts on the pull stroke. Most
Japanese tools work in this way it
allows the blade of the saw to be
13
12
thinner, and that makes a finer cut.

Now we can move onto the
fretting tools. For many years,
the idea of banging frets in with
a hammer on an instrument that
you may have spent many hours
working on or may be very old
and fragile has seemed to me to
be rather barbaric! No more: with
modern tools you no longer have to
do this. The first tool Im going to
be using is the Jaws hand-held fret
press 9 . This one comes with a
selection of clamping cauls to suit
the radii blocks we used earlier.
With the 12" caul fitted to match
the sanding block we used, the fret
press simply slips over the neck and
fret and a gentle squeeze on the
handle pushes the fret in evenly all
the way across the fretboard. With
the Jaws and the second fretting
tool Ill mention you can very
quickly work your way from the first
fret up to the heel on an acoustic
guitar in about 20 minutes. One of
the big advantages of this system is
that it will push all the frets in to the
same depth; hammering them in
never seems to get them all perfect,
though Im sure some might argue.
Nevertheless, with this system the
frets dont even need levelling when
finished just a quick polish.
Once weve got up to the 10th
fret the Jaws press will not work
14
because of the shape of the heel, so

well move on to the next fretting
tool: the Jaws 2 10 , complete with
cauls. This is a standard F clamp
modified to accept the clamping
caul that we used earlier and it also
comes with a selection of clamping
blocks to sit over the braces on the
inside of the guitar. Packers 11
can be made to work your past the
10th to 14th fret, making a bridge
between heel and neck, and by
using this we can now press the
frets in from the neck join to the
top of the fretboard.
The two or three frets at the end
are always a problem as theres
not a lot underneath holding
them up; when hammering, the
hammer tends to bounce on the
fret! Its possible to put sandbags
and various other things inside the
guitar to absorb some of vibration,
but in my experience pressing them
is by far the best method. You can
see from the pictures 12 & 13 that
the last fret has just been done, and
this one has always given me the
most problems in the past.
So here we are, with all the frets
installed, levelled and correctly
seated, and with less risk to a nice
guitar than with the tools we used
to use. All of these are great devices
that can help make doing our
repairs that much easier.!
Everything Forever
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#41542 - Eventide H9 Max half.indd 1
18/03/2015 14:02
WORKSHOP Acoustic upgrade
DIY WORKSHOP
BOOST YOUR SPRUCE

With a little knowledge, a few tools and the odd chunk of cows tibia, a Chinese or
Korean acoustic can be made to sound darn good and play surprisingly well. Top
luthier DAVE KING leads us through the process
Acoustic upgrade WORKSHOP
ur guinea pig guitar for

this DIY acoustic upgrade
feature is a Cort SFX. For
around 300 its a lot of
guitar, with solid spruce top
and mahogany back and sides, but
there are a number of things we can
do to improve the spec. While our
Cort is good value, it has a plastic
nut and saddle which dont transmit
the sound as well as bone. The neck
needs a little adjustment and the
frets could really do with levelling
and re-profiling. The bridge pins
are also plastic, and well replace
them with ebony ones.
The best place to start is by
removing the old nut 1 . This will
be glued in, so be careful; place
a block of wood behind it, and
gently tap it with a hammer. Once
its safely removed, we can start to
level out the frets. First, adjust the
truss rod so that the neck is straight
(here the adjusting nut is inside the
guitar at the neck join, but if theres
a cover plate on the headstock
on your guitar, it will be under
that). Make small adjustments, no
more than a quarter turn, and use
a straightedge to make sure the
fretboard is as close to level as you
can get it 2 .
Now well need a new, flat
oilstone to level the frets, and check
its flat with a straight edge: if its
not it can be levelled on a piece of
plate glass using wet and dry paper.
Dont just whizz all the way up and
down the fretboard, as that way
youll just follow the frets and not
eliminate any high spots. Instead,

work backwards and forwards a few
inches at a time 3 . Remember
to tilt the oilstone over to the left
and the right, and keep checking
everything carefully. You should
end up with a thin oilstoned line
visible across the top of all the frets.
Now the frets are level we can
begin to profile them. Well work
first on the fret ends 5 . I use a
small triangular needle file with the
corners ground off, which stops the
file from marking the fretboard. For
added security you can also use a
fretboard protector (available from
www.stewmac.com) 6 . Hold the
file at about 45 degrees to the end of
the fret and gently radius the end of
each one. Many top makers still use
a triangular file to profile the frets,
but this is very difficult; Id advise
you use one of the files designed
for the job, with a hollow surface
on the cutting edge (these come
with quite a coarse surface, mind,
so the best way to use them is to
wrap a piece of glass paper around
them 7 , starting with 320 grit
aluminum oxide paper then move
up to 600 grit wet and dry). Once
youve removed all of the marks
made with the oilstone, the frets
can be polished with 0000-grade
wire wool. Use a little lemon oil at
the same time 8 , as this will clean
and protect the fretboard.
Now the frets are all levelled and
polished, we can start on the nut
and the saddle. Is bone superior
to plastic? Yes, in most cases bone
will greatly enhance the sound of

your guitar: Ive tried most of the
substitutes and in my opinion,
none seem to work as well.
Lets begin with the nut. Place
the blank in position and mark
around the end of the board,
and then mark a line across the
top about 3mm higher than the
fretboard (I know this seems a lot,
but well reduce it later) 9 . You
can shape the nut in a number of
ways: files, a grinding wheel, or the
method I prefer, glass paper stuck
to MDF sheets. Start on 80 grit
then go up to 240. The marks left
from the 240 will be polished out
using 600 grit wet and dry when
weve finished the nut. Youll need
a bevel on the back of the nut and
one on the top; the angle on the top
needs to be about five degrees less
than the angle of the headstock 10
(normally 15 degrees).
To file the sides of the nut, youll
need to hold it securely. I use a
50mm-square piece of timber
with a rebate to hold the nut, and
because the timber is 50mm square
it gives you a surface to hold a
sanding block or file against 11 .
The exact angle of the sides of the
nut are usually square, but some
guitars vary. Just make sure the
nut is flush with the edges of the
fretboard. If you try holding it just
with your hands youll end up with
a rounded side to the nut not a
pro look.
Nows the time to move on to
the saddle, the removable piece
>
1 Removing the nut. No

thwacking! Very gently does it
2 Make sure fingerboard is
flat. Use a good straightedge
3 Levelling the frets. Work a
small area at a time
4 Use a black felt-tip to
show when all the frets are
being touched
5 Rounding fret ends You
can use a needle file, carefully
6 Fingerboard protector
Natty gadget and a useful buy
WORKSHOP Acoustic upgrade
7 Rounding fret tops Using

a concave file with glasspaper
8 Lemon oil and fine steel
wool Gives a lovely finish
9 Setting the initial nut
height Itll come down later
10 Correct angle. You need

to halve the angle to the head
11 Filing the nut sides. Use a
little jig to keep things square
12 Filing the saddle bottom.
This method will keep it
totally flat
13 Saddle thickness. Dont
take too much off the ends
14 Round off the ends. For a
perfect fit in the bridge slot
15 High points. Copy
the compensation to the
new blank
sitting in the bridge. This Cort

has a compensated saddle, so the
point at which the string leaves the
surface of the saddle varies from
string to string. Why? Well, when
a string is plucked on any stringed
instrument at least, any fretted
one: violins are exempt because you
can change the tuning by moving
your finger a fraction there is a
small amount of string at the point
where it leaves the nut and the
saddle where it does not vibrate,
and this changes the tuning of each
string, depending on the gauge
and the tension. Compensated
saddles make up for this by varying
the string length to allow for the
part that is not vibrating, making
your guitar play a little more in
tune. On electric guitars, of course,
each string saddle is individually
adjustable, but this would be very
difficult to achieve on an acoustic
guitar because of buzzes and rattles.
Compensated saddles are harder to
make than a straight saddle but they
do ensure that your guitar plays a
little more in tune, so if youre the

sort of person who is bugged by the
fact that an open E chord can be in
tune at the bottom of the fretboard
but out of tune at the top, then this
will help.
If the old saddle is the correct
size, simply copy the new one from
it but make it a little higher (about
.75mm) to allow for the adjustments
well need to make for the
compensation. Start by making sure
the bottom of the saddle is flat 12
(vital on all guitars but especially
on electro-acoustics, where a bad
contact with the pickup below will
give an uneven response). Now, cut
the new saddle to length, holding it
in a vice or cutting block, making
sure the ends are square. Sand the
saddle down to thickness using
your sanding blocks, making sure
its an even thickness along the
entire length and, importantly, not
too tight in the slot: it should be
a gentle push-fit, but not fall out.
Once happy with the length and the
thickness 13 especially round the
10
11
12
13
14
15
ends of the saddle 14 mark the

profile from the old saddle, hold it
in a vice and file to shape.
Now the tricky part filing
the top of the saddle for the
compensation. First, make up a
jig to hold it, using either a piece
of timber or MDF with a 35 degree
bevel cut on the face of it and a
rebate in the opposite side to hold
the saddle. When clamped to a work
surface this will allow you to work
on the saddle securely; the bevel
will help you guide the file and the
rebate will hold the saddle (if youre
unsure, practice on a saddle-sized
piece of timber first). Hold the
new saddle next to the old one and
transfer the centre points from the
old to the new 15 . Youll see the
treble E is closest to the front and
the B closest to the back. Put the
saddle in the jig and start filing back
to the correct points that you have
marked 16 , using the jig to guide
the file. Once youve finished work
on the front of the saddle, turn it
over and file the back edge to suit,
Acoustic upgrade WORKSHOP
16
17
18
19
20
21
making sure that youve worked to a

point about 0.5mm wide.
When youve completed all the
steps the top of the saddle can be
rounded over to give the strings a
smooth surface to sit on 17 . Make
sure there are no flats; the string
needs a radiused point to travel
over, and flats give buzzes. Finish
the saddle with 320 grit to remove
the file marks, then 600 grit to get
a nice polish.
The only other thing were
going to is replace the string pegs.
On this guitar theyre plastic, but
wood ones well use ebony will
make sure that more sound from
the string gets transmitted to the
top. For this job you may need a
reamer (expensive) 18 which will
cut the holes for the pegs with a
taper, ensuring a good fit. Ream the
holes out until the pegs sit flush on
the bridge. Make sure the reamer
stays square to the guitar, and use a
square for guidance.
Now its time to fit the strings.
Place the saddle in the bridge and
rest the nut in position (dont glue
22
it yet). Fit the two E strings first,

aiming for about two and a half
turns of string around the tuner.
Tighten the strings up enough to
keep them taut but not to pitch.
The best way to cut the slots in
the nut is with proper nut files. The
centres of the two E strings should
be 3.5mm in from the edge of the
fretboard 19 . Cut the slots with the
file at an angle halfway between
fretboard and headstock, ensuring
the string has contact all the way
across the top of the nut. When the
E strings are in the right place, add
the rest of the strings and again
tighten them up a little. There are
many ways of spacing the strings
equally, but if you just measure
from centre to centre youll end up
with a smaller space between the
bass strings than the treble strings.
I generally divide the space equally
then make smaller adjustments by
eye or carefully measure the space
between the strings 20 .
A reasonable action to aim for at
the first fret would be a gap of about
.5mm between the first fret and the
23
underside of the string on the bass,

slightly less on the treble. At the
same time as lowering the strings
at the nut youll have to be checking
the action at the 12th fret. This
should be about 2mm under the
bass side and 1.5mm at the treble.
These figures are rough guides, and
depending on your style of playing
you may like to adjust them either
way. Bring all the strings down
evenly, a little at a time 21 .
Now remove the strings, nut and
saddle. The strings should sit with
no more than half their depth in the
nut, so reduce the top to suit and
finish by polishing with 600 grit
wet and dry. Put everything back
together, and this time put a dab
of glue under the nut. When the
guitar is tuned to pitch, adjust the
trussrod to leave a slight hollow in
the face of the fretboard.
As it turns out, our humble Cort
has been transformed. Its a far
more playable guitar, with better
tone, volume and sustain. The time
spent replacing a few parts has
been really worthwhile.
16 Filing the angles. Note the

jig and, again, the felt-tip trick
17 Compensation done. Just
some rounding-over to do
18 Reaming for new pins.
Tape on reamer marks
max depth
19 Outside nut slots E strings
should be 3.5mm from edge
20 Spacing the other slots.
Take your time: this is vital
21 String heights. Take each
one lower a tiny bit at a time
22 Slot angle. The correct

angle ensures a buzz-free nut
23 Finished nut. Perfectly cut
and beautifully polished
24 Saddle Like the original,
but in toneful bone. Fine job!
24
WORKSHOP Resonator
RESONATOR WORKSHOP
PAIN IN THE NECK

Got an old resonator thats in need of a bit of TLC? Or maybe you just
fancy finding out how these maverick guitars hang together? DAVE KING
shows us how a pro tackles a neck set on a National
Resonator WORKSHOP
n this article were going to take

a look at some maintenance
work on a single-cone resonator
guitar. After 70 or more years
of coping with 160lbs of
tension on the neck, its inevitable
that some vintage Nationals
are suffering from neck angle
problems. On a resonator guitar
the angle of the strings over the
cone determines the amount of
downward pressure on the cone:
too much and itll kill the sound,
too little and there wont be enough
pressure to make the cone work..
The instrument that were going
to be looking at is suffering from
too little downward pressure over
the cone and displays
an action at the 12th
fret of 4.5mm, which
too high even for
slide playing (this
instrument needs to be
set up for fingerpicking
rather than slide, so we need an
action at the 12th fret of about
2.5mm. You can see from the
picture 1 below that the straightedge shows only a few degrees of
string break angle over the cone,
and we need an angle of about 15
degrees. Also, the bridge is far too
low: we should have a saddle height
of about 7mm-9mm. Any higher
than this and the forward pressure
on the cone will make it collapse.
This an original, irreplaceable cone
from 1934, so great care is needed
and these cones are only about
eight thousandths of an inch thick.
This instrument needs to have its

neck taken off and reset at a greater
angle, which should give us the
right action along with the correct
saddle height and break angle. With
the strings and cone removed, we
can start dismantling it.
First, the soundposts 2 . These
hold the instrument together, and
without them the guitar would
collapse. They are generally glued
and pinned in but unfortunately
here the pins are pushed under the
surface of the neck pole, so pulling
them out is not an option. We need
to get a saw into the sound well
and cut them out, not forgetting to
also remove the two screws that go
of the marker; this way we can drill

through and prise the rest out.
Dont drill too deep, just through
the dots, or youll end up drilling
the head of the screw off 5 .
We can now see how the neck
join works. The timber packer
under the end of the fretboard
goes between the neck pole and
the body of the guitar: this pushes
up on the inside of the guitars top
and ensures we end up with a flat
fretboard rather than one that dips
down over the neck join.
Before starting work on the
neck angle Im going to replace
the saddle in the biscuit with
a new, higher one made from
boxwood which is
what the originals
where made from.
This will give
me something to
work to when Im
adjusting the neck
angle. If youre careful, the old
saddle can be levered or chiselled
out and simply replaced: its a good
idea to keep the original biscuit
as these instruments are far more
collectable when original (and
anyway, replacing it will change the
sound).
Now, the neck angle. Im going
to remove some timber from the
neck pole 6 to allow me to pull the
neck back. Using a straight-edge,
Ive marked a line down the length
of the neck pole: the straight-edge
must be held at the heel of the
neck as this is where the whole
>
This is an irreplaceable original

cone from 1934, and its extremely
thin, so we need to take great care
through the sound well and into
the neck pole.
The end of the fretboard is
screwed onto the metal body at the
15th, 17th and 19th frets which
is why there are two position dots
at the 15th and 19th for a screw
either side of the fretboard (the one
at the 17th goes right through the
body and into the neck pole). The
screws are located underneath and
they need to be carefully drilled
out with a metal drill bit 4 (not a
centre-point bit like youd use on
timber) which should be a couple of
millimetres less than the diameter
1 Shallow break angle

does not produce enough
downforce for the cone
2 Removing the old
soundposts. A saw is the
only way
3 Removing neck post. First,
the screws in the soundwell
4 Drilling out the pearl dots.
What is this madness? Well
5 The screws are hidden
underneath and there are
five in all
6 A timber packer goes
between the neck pole and
the top
WORKSHOP Resonator
7 New saddle Crafted from

boxwood, like the original
8 A matter of angle Marking
out a wedge at the top of the
neck pole. With this removed,
the neck angle will be right
9 The folding wedge
technique. Pushing these
together shifts the neck pole
up by tiny increments until
its just right
10 Not enough. The saddles

the right height, but our first
neck reset hasnt given enough
angle. Time to try once again
11 Heel gap The neck set
means the heel has tilted away

12 Homemade scriber. Dave
uses a ground-down ruler
13 Marking the line Shows
how much wood must come off
14 Chisel time. Carefully take
the wood off down to the line
15 Heel re-fitted No visible
gap. Youd hardly ever know
thing pivots from. This should

result in a wedge being cut from the
neck pole 8 .
With the material removed, we
can put the neck back in and check
the angle (make sure you put the
packer back under the end of the
fretboard). You can see from picture
9 that Ive used a pair of folding
wedges to push the neck pole up
against the sound
well; this will do
until weve got the
right neck angle,
then some new
soundposts will
need to be cut.
Picture 10 shows the neck fitted
but we still dont have enough
angle, so well have to take the neck
back out and remove some more
material from the neck pole to pull
it back further. After the second try,
all is well.
Still, before we can refit the
soundposts and position markers,
some work on the neck join is
needed. Because weve pulled the
neck back the heel no longer fits the

body of the guitar 11 , and it needs
to snuggle up perfectly. Well cover
the body of the guitar with tape for
protection, then mark the joint. I
have a number of different scribing
tools for this job 12 : the one Im
using here is a ruler with a cutting
edge ground on to it. With a line
scribed all the way round the heel
The string angle controls the

pressure on the cone: too little and it
wont work properly
for me to work to 13 , Ill carefully
chisel my way down to the line 14
and hopefully we should end up
with a perfect fit without even the
tiniest visible gap 15 .
With the neck correctly fitted we
can get on with securing it using
the soundposts and the screws
under the fretboard markers. Ive
made some new props for the
soundposts: that way we keep the
10
11
12
13
14
15
original round biscuit packers. To

mark out the height Ill hold them
about an inch in front of where they
need to end up and mark a line
across them using a Stanley blade
as a scriber 16 . This makes them
come out a little long, but by the
time youve moved them into the
correct position they should fit with
just a light push. Ive used a little
glue on the top
and some pins
to hold them and
Ive also left the
tops of the pins a
little proud 17 , so
if they need to be
removed in the future they can just
be pulled out without having to cut
the soundpost.
The only other work we need to
do to finish the inside of the guitar
is to replace the two screws that
connect the sound well with the
neck pole. Also, theres a wedge
between the end of the neck pole
and the end block that needs to be
fitted, glued and gently pushed into
Resonator WORKSHOP
16
17
18
19
20
21
place. Well let the glue hold it and

not force it in, as if its too tight it
could well push the neck away from
the body.
Once the screws have been
fitted to hold the end of the
fretboard down we can install new
pearl dots, running a little thin
superglue down the sides to hold
them securely 18
, and when the glue
is dry they can be
filed down flush to
the surface of the
fretboard using a
fine file 19 . Check
that the end of the fretboard is
straight over the body join: if it
needs pushing up then a small
wedge can be pushed in between
the neck pole and the packer on the
inside of the guitar 20 . This often
can mean getting your hand into
some pretty awkward places inside
the guitar.
Now its time to start cutting the
string slots. You can do this in a
number of different ways: one way
is to mark out the string slots then

remove the biscuit from the cone
to cut the slots, but I prefer to cut
them while the biscuit is still on
the cone 21 . Beware: if your files
are not sharp and you catch one
of them in the string slot, you run
the risk of crushing the cone. On
an original, irreplaceable cone this
too shallow they will fall out. Some

resonator players like to have the
slots cut to a V shape to ensure
the strings dont choke, but Ive
always found cutting to the correct
depth works perfectly fine. Ive
used a sanding block to sand down
the top of the saddle and smeared
the biscuit with wood glue to hold
it securely on
the cone. A
little black stain
always helps
make it look a
little more like
it should.
When we place the cone back in
the soundwell well make sure that
the bass side of the saddle is about
2mm closer to the bottom of the
guitar than the treble side to allow
for intonation. All the remains are
the tasks of replacing the cover
plate and restringing. We now have
a National resonator that should
hopefully be fit for another 70 years
of playing without making the
owners fingers too sore
Beware: if your files are not sharp and

you catch one of them in the string slot,
you run the risk of crushing the cone.
22
would be a catastrophe, so proceed

with caution!
Picture 23 shows the break angle
and the height of the new biscuit,
plus an action at the 12th fret of
2.5mm. Before we replace the
coverplate, we need to clean up the
top of the saddle. The slots in the
saddle should be exactly the same
depth as the strings any deeper
and you seriously run the risk of
choking the sound, but if theyre
16 Marking new soundposts.

Note the old round biscuits
17 Pinning new soundpost.
Pin left proud for future
removal
18 New pearl dots. One job
where superglue really works
19 Filing down the dots.
Careful not to mark the
fingerboard
20 Checking the neck is
straight. A wedge can
be added
21 String slots. Dave does
this with the saddle in place
22 Completed saddle. Correct
depth slots, plus dark stain
23 Perfect angle. The new
neck set has given a perfect 15
degrees of string break over
the saddle. Bring on the blues!
23
WORKSHOP Neck reset
NECK RESET WORKSHOP
TIME WOUNDS ALL HEELS

Many aging acoustics would benefit from a neck reset and some
careful attention to the dovetail joint. In this article a Gibson J-45
gets the full treatment. DAVE KING is the man with the chisel
he Gibson J-45 is a classic

spruce/mahogany slopeshouldered guitar, and a
mainstay of the companys
range from 1942 until 1969.
In the 70s the model went squareshouldered, but it made a strong
comeback in the reissue era and
has now regained its place as a
classic fingerpicking, rhythm and
songwriters tool. Our patient is
a fine example from 1950, with a
problem thats likely on any guitar
this old: the need for a neck reset..
Apart from the neck joint actually
breaking, the only reason to reset
a guitars neck is to increase or
decrease the neck angle. On an
acoustic guitar the tension on the
strings amounts to about 180lbs,
and over time the tops can belly
outwards or the neck can pull
forwards, either of which will result
in a very high playing action.
The easiest way to check whether
a guitar needs a neck reset is to
place a straight-edge along the
fretboard 1 and see where it
meets the bridge (with saddle
removed). The straight-edge should
just hit the top of the bridge 2 . On
94 DIY GUITAR BIBLE 2015 guitar-bass.net
ours, as you can see, its pointing at

a spot halfway down the bridge. If
the bridge is higher than 6mm its
sometimes possible to simply plane
a little off the top; bear in mind,
though, that if the bridge is 9mm
high and you plane 3mm from it,
this will reduce the tension on the
soundboard, and this can adversely
affect the sound.
On this instrument we could
do one of two things: either reset
the neck at a different angle to
compensate, or re-brace or replace
the top. The problem with doing
any work on the top is, again, that
it might drastically change the
sound of the instrument, and many
vintage guitars sound as good as
they do because of the way the tops
have moved under tension over the
years. Theres also the question of
value and originality. So, generally,
the neck would be reset.
Extra care is needed with old
Gibsons. On some, the necks were
put into the sides before the top
was glued on. This means that the
top goes over the dovetail joint, so
pulling the neck out would also
pull the top away from the guitar!
On this one, however, I can clearly

see that the neck and fretboard
have been off before, which in turn
means the top would have already
been cut around the dovetail to
allow the neck removal. Your guitar
repairman should be aware of these
potential catastrophes!
So, with the neck removed, its
time to change the neck angle.
The first thing we need to do is
thoroughly clean up the neck join.
On this J45 theres a 2.5mm spruce
packer under the end of fretboard
3 that Im going to remove and
replace (using an ultra-sharp chisel,
of course, as it cuts so much better).
The next job is to clean up the
joint 4 5 . For this Im using a
sanding block with some angles
cut on it to allow me to get around
and into the dovetail. You need to
produce a perfectly clean and flat
surface, which we can later build up
with some veneer. If the surface is
not completely flat the veneer will
not stick well, giving a weak join,
which could break.
With the dovetail cleaned up we
should now have quite a loose
joint, and this will enable us to
Neck Reset WORKSHOP
adjust the neck angle. This job

normally requires about six hands to
hold everything together. The neck
must be held with the straight-edge
at the correct angle so that it just
clears the top of the bridge 6 ; use
some packers under the joint to keep
the neck in the correct position.
Once youve got the neck at
the right angle the heel will need
to be scribed around so that we
can recut it 7 . It needs to sit
perfectly against the side of the
guitar. If youre pulling the neck
back, remember that you should be
removing material from the bottom
of the heel: this is important. If
you remove material from the top
of the heel youll push the neck
and fretboard closer to the bridge,
wrecking the intonation, which can
only be fixed by filling and recutting
the saddle slot. To scribe the heel
joint I use the edge of a ruler with
a cutting angle ground on one
edge, which is generally the right
thickness at about 1mm. Of course,
the surface of the ruler has no sharp
edges on it, apart from the one we

use to do the cutting (you can also
put some masking tape on the body
of the guitar to make sure you dont
scratch it). The method is to push
the ruler around the heel, scribing
the shoulder at the same time, and
creating a line about 0.5mm deep.
As you can see, its possible to get a
really nice clean line.
Next, using a Stanley knife blade,
we can pick off the timber under
the line thats been scribed, giving
a really clean line to work to with
the chisel 8 . Well work all around
the heel with the chisel, frequently
checking the joint to make sure
were not taking to much away, 9
and at the same time also making
sure that the neck is not only at the
right angle but also thinking threedimensionally to ensure the neck
is in line with the bridge and the
pin holes 10 . Its easy to get carried
away with the neck angle and to
forget about lining it all up with
the bridge; this could result in real
embarrassment when you get to
stringing up the guitar and discover

that the strings are hanging over
one edge of the fingerboard.
Now weve cut the shoulder with
the chisel we can move on to using
some glasspaper to give us a perfect
fit 11 . Well mark the surface of the
shoulder with a pencil, then place
the neck in the joint with a piece
of glasspaper under it. By gently
pulling the paper out with a little
pressure on the neck, well be able
to get an exact join. When all the
pencil lines have gone, it should be
just right.
Before moving on to fitting the
dovetail Im going to replace the
packing-piece that I removed earlier
from under the fretboard. The old
packer was a 2.5mm thick piece
of spruce, so well replace it with
something similar 12 . The only
thing to make sure of here is to
use the correct clamping blocks;
the upper one should match the
fingerboard radius, while the one
on the back should be flat. Once
the glue has dried, the excess
>
1 Assessing the situation.

Typically, the top of the guitar
has bellied up
2 Straight-edge test. Lines
up halfway down the bridge
3 Chisel work. Removing the
packer under the fretboard
4 Cleaning the joint. Notice
the natty angled sanding block
5 Heel cleaned. We used the
same angled block as in pic 4e
6 Correct neck angle. The
ruler rests on top of the bridge
7 Scribing around the heel.

Were using a sharpened ruler
8 Next step removing the
strip of lacquer below the line
9 Delicate work chiselling to
remove just the right amount
WORKSHOP Neck Reset
10
10 More checks making sure

the neck lines up with bridge
11 Fitting heel to sides using
the glasspaper pull method
12 New packing piece glued
in place under the fingerboard
13 Trimming packing piece

Plane to centre to avoid
chipping
14 Preparing the packing
veneers. Place in the rout
first
15 Clamping up and gluing to
the sides of the dovetaill
16 Check straightness again
lining up perfectly with the
pin holess
17 Final gluing. One big
clamp, and one for the
fingerboard
18 Neck set done, just a
refret and some touching
up to go
11
timber can be planed off 13 . A

handy tip when planing across the
end grain, by the way, is to always
plane into the centre; if you go all
the way across in one swoop, you
could easily split out the edges of
the fretboard and the spruce.
A correctly-fitted dovetail is a
remarkable thing: it pulls itself
together in all directions. In fact,
a perfect one wont even need any
clamps when you glue it. On this
one, though, well need to use
a couple of clamps to hold the
fretboard down. Since our dovetail
is loose-fitting at this point, well
employ a piece of veneer on each
side of the necks dovetail 14 .
Unless its a particularly bad fit, one
or two pieces are normally enough
(in the past, though, Ive had to
build up dovetails by as much as
6mm). You need to have enough
veneer in there to keep the whole
neck sticking up by about 6mm;
this will give enough to re-fit the
joint when weve glued the veneer
on. Well need three clamping cauls
12
to clamp the veneers with an even

pressure all over 15 . Also, well
wrap them in parcel tape to stop
them sticking to the dovetail.
The next part is not easy. With
the dovetail tighter than it should be
it now has to be fitted, and the best
way Ive found is to use chalk dust.
By covering one surface with chalk
and gently pushing it into the joint,
the dust will be transferred from
one surface to the other. The point
that makes contact first, of course,
will be the tightest part; by sanding
or chiselling a little off at this point
the joint will close up. This may
take 20 or 30 attempts to get right,
but you should end up with the
chalk dust transferring from one
side to the other all the way down
the dovetail.
Once youre happy with the fit
which should have no play in any
direction it can be glued together.
Remember, glue does not fill gaps,
so the better the fit the stronger it
will be and the more efficiently it
will transfer the sound. Before the
13
14
15
16
17
18
glue goes on, do one last check 16

to make sure everything is in line,
and when the glue has gone on
check it once again, both for the
angle to the bridge and to make
sure its lined up with the bridge
pin holes.
To glue the two parts together
17 its necessary to use the
radiussed block on the top of the
fretboard and a clamping caul to
go around the braces on the inside
of the guitar. The glue Im using
is Titebond aliphatic resin. It dries
harder than PVA and will keep
our guitar together for many years
to come. The neck joint will now
need to be left for 24 hours before
the guitar can be can refretted 18 ,
and well also do a little refinishing
around the neck.
This, then, is how you approach
the tricky but rewarding task of a
neck reset. One warning: if you
think you might like to have a go at
work like this yourself, we seriously
recommend you do not start with a
1950 Gibson!
Acoustic WORKSHOP
ACOUSTIC WORKSHOP
RESCUE PLAN
Buying an acoustic guitar with issues neednt be too much

of a risk if youre handy and prepared to get stuck in. HUW PRICE
snapped up a promising-looking contender and set to work
rom the outset I want to

say that the guitar weve
chosen to be our patient, a
Recording King, is a great
guitar. Essentially its a prewar style Martin replica with solid
mahogany back and sides, a solid
sitka spruce top and a one-piece
mahogany neck with a soft V
profile. Theres also herringbone
purfling, ivoroid binding and ebony

for the fingerboard and bridge, and
I was also surprised to discover
that the finish is nitrocellulose and
bone is used for the nut and saddle.
Recording Kings attention to detail
is more than evident from the openended saddle slot and the slot-head
tuner screws. The specs might read
like that of an expensive, high-end
US-made model, but the ROS626 sells new for around 600. I
managed to pick this example up
on Ebay for about 225 because it
had some issues. After a week or so
of procrastination, mostly because I
was enjoying the guitar too much, it
was time to address the fingerboard
cracks, re-glue the lifting bridge
and make a new saddle.
>
CRACKING UP
The fingerboard cracks which, to be fair, the eBay

seller had photographed to make them look worse
than they actually were consisted of several long,
hairline cracks running the length of the
fingerboard, and they needed to be stabilised.
The cracks were too fine to force in regular PVA
wood glue or epoxy, so I resorted to medium
viscosity superglue. Superglue is ideal because it
wicks straight into cracks and it doesnt need
clamping. After the first application I scraped the
board flush with Stanley blades, rubbed some ebony
dust into the cracks and applied a second dose of
superglue. After the second scraping the cracks had
all but vanished, leaving a beautifully smooth
fingerboard. I followed up with some 1400 grit
micromesh and some lemon oil and the board felt
better than new. The factory had dyed the ebony for
a uniformly black look; the scraping revealed the
grain plus some natural brown tones, and to my eyes
it looked a lot more attractive.
Superglue wicks into tight cracks,

and you dont need to clamp
Snapped Stanley knife blades will scrape

the hardened Superglue flush
>
TOOLBOX
Three bridge clamps
Palette knife
Titebond Original glue
File
Jewellers saw
Micromesh
Metal polish
Superglue
Ebony dust
Stanley knife blade
WORKSHOP Acoustic
REMOVING THE BRIDGE
Removing the bridge is a fairly serious matter,

but here it had to be done because it was already
separating from the top. First, slivers of paper
were inserted under the bridge crack and
marked to determine the extent of separation.
Three things are needed to remove an acoustic
guitar bridge a heat source, a wafer-thin
palette knife and strong nerves. Actually that
last ones a joke its not that difficult, but you
do need to be careful and patient.
Luthiers often use specialist bridge-sized
heating pads but, like many others, I use a
regular clothes iron. First I cut a rectangle out of
a piece of corrugated cardboard to protect the
finish, then held the hot iron on the bridge for
around five minutes (not forgetting to turn off
the steam setting).
Once the bridge felt pretty hot I removed the
cardboard and slid the palette knife under the
existing gap. It went in quite easily and I
gradually worked my way around the bridge,
occasionally stopping to apply more heat. All the
while you must ease the palette knife between
the bridge and the top, taking great care not to
damage the finish and trying to work from the
outside edges towards the centre rather than
pushing the knife straight through.
Its imperative to do as little damage to the
top as possible, so never try to lift or prise the
bridge off. If you get bored or impatient, just
stop, have a break and come back to it later.
Removing this bridge took me around 15
minutes, but relatively little of its surface area
was actually in contact with the top.
When the bridge finally released it was
obvious why the back had been pulling up. Read
any book on acoustic guitar building and you will
learn that the soundboard wood underneath the
bridge needs to be exposed for wood glue to
adhere. Wood glue wont stick to polyester,
After pushing in slivers of paper, the

depth of the separation is revealed
You can expect some spruce too come away
The softened glue allows the palette knife

blade to slide in fairly easily. Work all around
from the outside to the centre
acrylic or nitro finishes. Some builders carefully

scrape away the finish in the bridge area after the
guitar has been finished; others apply masking
tape to the bridge area of top of the guitar prior to
spraying. The tape is then peeled off to expose
bare wood when its time to fit the bridge.
So far as I can tell, someone at the Recording
King factory simply scored out a rectangle using a
sharp blade then chiselled away the finish along
with a fair amount of the spruce top. This left an
uneven surface, along with some nasty gouges.
Worse still, there was a strip of intact finish
PREPARING THE BRIDGE AREA
All the flaky wood fibres pulled loose by the

removal of the bridge need to be sorted out and
by the time it was sanded we had a smooth
concave trough in the under-bridge area. Next
we took a spruce offcut and sanded it down to a
thickness of just over 1mm. The offcut was then
divided into smaller lengths, and the undersides
were sanded to create a slight curve. This curve,
coupled with the clamping pressure, allowed our
spruce patches to conform to the damaged
surface of the body.
Once the pieces were glued in place they were
left for 24 hours. Insulation tape was carefully
laid along the edges of the bridge footprint, and
we used a very small sanding block to make the
patches level with the surrounding top. We chose
Titebond Original glue; it sets very hard and will
prohibit the bridge from moving. The glue joint
should be stronger than the wood fibres, so
there shouldnt be any structural issues.
Above: Spruce veneer in-fills are glued into
position in small sections. Left: Tape is applied
along the bridge outline to protect the finish and
a sanding block is used to level the gluing area.
The outer pin positions have been marked
A cardbord mask is used to protect the

top of the guitar from the heat of the iron
The black tape outline shows that the finish

wasnt properly scraped back at the factory
almost 10mm wide all the way along the area

under the back of the bridge. No wonder it was
pulling loose.
This struck me as bizarre considering the
otherwise outstanding build quality for a guitar
in this price range. However I have since learned
that in early June 2011 two of Recording Kings
head honchos re-trained the factorys bridge
gluing staff to ensure finish scraping and
application was standardised and correct.
Hopefully the well-documented Recording King
bridge lifting issues have now been remedied.
Acoustic WORKSHOP
FIXING THE BRIDGE
Now for gluing the bridge back on. I decided to

make a bridge clamping caul, because its tricky
to make bridge clamps hold position on
scalloped braces. I held a sheet of white paper
against the bridge plate with my fingers and
used my thumbnail to push the paper into the
corners of the brace/bridge plate intersection to
mark the area. You can mark the front and back
edges of the bridge plate the same way, and
when you remove the paper the crease lines will
provide a reasonably accurate template for your
clamping block. Next, transfer the template to a
piece of scrap MDF and cut it to size, then cut
another piece, slightly wider, to overhang the X
braces each side of the bridge plate. Then I
attached cork pads to the overhangs to protect
the braces and drilled two 10mm holes for the
outer bridge pins.
Since the original bridge outline was clearly
visible, I placed the bridge in position and
marked the position of the outer pin holes on
our freshly sanded gluing surface. I then drilled
through the spruce patches and increased the
diameter to accommodate the bridge pins
using a reamer.
The beauty of doing a bridge refit, as opposed
to a first-time bridge fit, is that you can use the
existing bridge pin holes to position the bridge
and stop it sliding around when it has been glued
(of course this assumes that the bridge was
correctly positioned in the first place). Just
make sure you use plastic pins, because wooden
pins will stick to the wood glue and if that
happens youll be in real trouble.
Another spruce off-cut was placed on top of
the bridge along with two more holes for the
bridge pins. This was done for protection and to
distribute the clamping pressure across the
Heres the paper template

for the bridge clamping caul
Top, the upper bridge caul; bottom, the inside

clamping caul with cork X brace overhangs
The bridge must be scraped and sanded

to remove all trace of the old glue
At last the bridge is clamped and the guitar is

set aside for 24 hours. Note bridge pins
bridge. So-called pyramid bridges like this one

are tricky to clamp because of those pointy bits on
the top, so I stuck some cork pads onto the ends to
make life easier.
Before clamping I thoroughly scraped and
cleaned the bridge base to remove all traces of
glue and old finish. This revealed that the ebony
had been dyed black because the natural timber
had so much brown colouring. The rough-looking
visible surfaces were sanded with 320 grit paper
followed by micromesh and, after masking off the
underside of the bridge, I gave it a final buff up

with black shoe polish.
The clamping caul was covered in plastic
packing tape and secured to the bridge plate
using two very small pieces of double-sided tape
for easy removal. The bridge was positioned
using the pins and clamped using three bridge
clamps. The glue squeeze out was cleaned up
immediately with a damp cloth and the guitar
was set aside for 24 hours before the clamps
were removed.
doubt was extinguished when we discovered a thin

shim of plastic binding at the bottom of the slot. I
already knew that the saddle height was pretty
much spot on albeit with the shim in situ so at
least I had a decent template to work from.
A bone blank was inserted into the slot and a

sharp pencil was used to trace the curves of the
bridge onto the new saddle at both ends of the
slot. Next, the blank was removed and the old
saddle was placed on top to trace its shape and
size onto the new blank. The ends were then
drawn free-hand to create a smooth transition
between the old and new shapes.
A jewellers saw was used to rough-cut the
bone blank and a file was used to bring the
height of the new saddle close to the original.
The intonation was already very good, but notes
were slightly flat at the 12th fret so I decided to
bring the string take-off point on the top of the
saddle closer to the bridge pins. After a quick
rub with micromesh and a buff with chrome
polish the saddle was pushed into its slot and it
was finally time to put the strings back on.
SADDLING UP
The bridge had an open-ended bridge saddle slot

as used by Martin prior to 1965 but
somewhere along the line this guitar had
acquired a post-1965 style saddle. A new saddle
was required to fill the slot properly and all
Open saddle slot but the

saddle old saddle doesnt match
Verdict
The Recording King ROS-626 has an
archetypal old-school slothead tone thats
perfectly suited to blues, slide, ragtime and
even open-tuned Celtic style meanderings.
Even in stock form this guitar significantly
The new saddle has been cut and filed and

the ends now look exactly as they should
exceeded my expectations, so a big thanks to

Alex and Reuben for telling me about it.
Fixing the bridge-to-body joint noticeably
refined the Recording Kings tone, but
replacing the saddle had a much more
profound effect. The guitar felt freed up and
much louder, and the bottom end gained a

lot of power. The slight crashiness we had
noticed was virtually gone and the overall
clarity, smoothness and balance improved
enormously. The works definitely been
worth it, and this ones a keeper.
guitar-bass.net GUITAR DIY BIBLE 99
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PROJECT Ukulele kit
UKULELE KIT
UKE BOX JURY
If youve ever wanted to build your first instrument then a ukulele kit is the
absolute best place to start: small, manageable, simple and with an outcome
packed with fun and joy. Say Aloha! to HUW PRICE
TOOLBOX
Wood glue & Original glue
finishing materials
Titebond
File
Jewellers saw
Micromesh
Metal polish
Superglue
Stanley knife blade
hen the package arrived,

at first sight it was hard
to believe that anybody
could fit a ukulele into
such a small box. A quick
check confirmed that everything
was present and correct. Japanese
company Hosco offer various
ukulele kits, both Soprano and

Tenor, but this 78 package from
Tonetech is the all-solid mahogany
Soprano version with pre-slotted
and dotted rosewood fingerboard
and banjo-style tuners.
The package includes front and
back plates; pre-bent sides; heel and
GLUING IN THE BLOCKS
Draw a centre line down the heel

block and youre ready to glue
CUTTING THE JIG
Unlike the acoustic guitar kits weve built before,

the uke kits rims were bent from a single piece of
mahogany rather than two pieces. We drew a
centre line down the gluing surface of the neck
block and applied glue to one side only. One end of
the rim was clamped with its edge carefully butted
up against the centre line, then glue was applied
to the other half of the neck block, and the other
side was clamped up. Next we attached the tail
block, and the whole assembly was set aside.
This jig keeps the shape of the body
while you glue the box together
One side of the ribs are glued:

now for the other side
Heel block and tail block all in place, with

string to keep the shape of the waist
neck blocks; a bridge, bone saddle

and nut; and all the braces. You
even get a set of strings. All that
youll need to provide is some wood
glue, finishing materials and a few
days work. So after a quick read
through the instructions, we were
ready to get started.
While we waited for the glue to dry, we cut out the

U shaped clamp jig shown on the back page of the
instructions from 5mm plywood. The purpose of
this is to slide over the body to define the width of
the waist and hold the sides square. Once the
blocks were firmly fixed, we removed the clamps
and slipped the jig onto the rims to form the
correct outline shape for the body.
Ukulele kit PROJECT
FIXING THE LININGS
The kit contains four pre-bent strips of wood

that must be glued to the sides. These provide
extra rigidity and widen the gluing area for the
top and back plates. The top linings followed the
flat edge of the sides and we glued those on first
with the jig in place. All you need to clamp the
strips is a bag full of clothes pegs.
The back strips were glued in at an angle from
the taller heel block to the shorter neck block.
Once the glue had dried we filed and planed the
excess mahogany away, then trued up the
surfaces of the sides and the strips using a wide,
flat sanding block.
The linings or kerfings come

pre-bent too. Which is nice
Clamping the kerfing in place

with a load of clothes pegs
MAKING THE ROSETTE
The ukulele kit comes with the soundhole

pre-cut along with a neat little trough ready
routed to house the rosette. Hosco provide three
strips of white plastic and two of black. With
acoustic guitar builds you can usually hide any
joints beneath the fingerboard; unfortunately
the whole rosette remains visible with this
design so attention to detail is needed.
First, we pushed the strips into the trough to
hold them together, then dripped a little
superglue over the centimetre at the very end
and pulled the strips back out after a couple of
seconds. The superglue fixed the strips together;
just dont leave them in too long, or the plastic
might stick to the wood too. That comes later.
Next, the superglued end of the rosette strips
was placed in a mitre block and cut at a 45
degree angle. The strips were then put back into
the rout, starting at the mitred end, and we held
them in place by using patches of masking tape
placed at intervals every few centimetres.
Next, we worked our way around the rosette
with superglue. The thin consistency of
superglue allows it to wick in between the strips

and through to the wood beneath.
We left the very final section un-glued and
used a craft knife to cut away tiny shavings of
plastic until the ends matched up. This part is
fiddly and time consuming, but dont rush it or
you may end up with a blemish that will bother
you every time you look at your uke. And we
wouldnt want that.
GLUING THE BRACES
The instructions provide plenty of tips on how to

glue the various components together with the
bare minimum of clamps. However if, like us, you
do have a decent number of clamps at your
disposal then you may as well use them, because
its easier.
For this uke build there are only two braces
each on the back and front, plus a bridge plate.
The approximate positions are marked out, but
we took the opportunity to determine our centre
lines and ensure the brace positions were
squared up. One thing to note is that the gluing
surfaces of the top braces are flat, while the
back braces are curved. The braces were a little
6 ATTACHING THE TOP
To determine the exact positioning for the top

we flicked forward in the instructions to find the
recommended distance between the neck joint
and the bridge. Since the bridge plate was
already on, we just made sure it would end up
directly below the bridge. With our plywood jig
in situ we positioned the rims over the top plate
and marked the inside edges of the rims on the
braces. Using a fine saw blade we cut through
the braces and used a chisel to remove the
excess from the brace ends to achieve a nice
tight fit. Glue was applied to the surface of the
rims as well as the neck and tail blocks and the
top was clamped in position while the glue dried.
From the moment we read the instructions we

had concerns about gluing the neck. We have
done mortise and tenon joints and bolt-on necks,
but this kit involves simply butting the end of
the neck up against the body and holding then
together while the glue sets. The instructions are
very vague but suggest augmenting the glue
joint with a dowel.
The thing is, should you drill the dowel holes
in the neck block and neck heel separately, or
with the neck and body dry clamped together? If
so, that would mean doing the drilling before the
back is attached. We tried this and found it
impossible because we couldnt clamp the neck
firmly enough to the body. Besides, even if we
had succeeded in drilling two perfectly aligned
holes, trying to tap the glued up dowel into the
neck joint and trim it flush while working
through the tiny soundhole wasnt a very
attractive prospect.
We decided to deviate from the instructions,
and glued the body onto the neck before
attaching the back plate. The thick rubber band
included with the kit provided enough pressure
to hold the neck against the body, and we used a
Gluing the top onto the box. The excess top

material can easily be chiselled off later
The rosette, all glued in, with the ends

mitred and the whole thing sanded flush
rough and ready, so we took the opportunity to

finesse them a bit, evening up the curves and
shaving them slightly to enhance resonance.
The top has only two braces,

plus a bridge plate
FIXING THE NECK

G-clamp to ensure the top surface of the body
lined up with the surface of the neck, onto which
the fingerboard would later be attached.
Once the glue had dried we drilled a dowel
hole through the neck block into the neck,
covered the 6mm dowel with glue, and pushed it
into the hole. We cut the end of the dowel flush
with the surface of the heel block and sanded
everything smooth.
We decided to drill our dowel

hole after the neck was glued on
PROJECT Ukulele kit
ATTACHING THE BACK
The neck heel protruded beyond the gluing

surface of the neck block, so it needed to be
trimmed flush before we could glue on the back.
We chose to use a classical guitar building
technique where the back plate continues over
the heel. It eliminates the join line where heel

meets body and gives extra strength to prevent
the neck tilting forward. The brace overhangs
were trimmed back bit by bit until we achieved a
snug fit, and the back was glued on.
THE FINGERBOARD
The rosewood fingerboard in our ukulele kit

came pre-slotted, and we installed the frets
before gluing it to the neck. We tapped them in
with a plastic-tipped mallet, then snipped the
edges flush with the fingerboard using a fret
nippers. Using the same straight-edge sanding
block that we used to sand the rims flush, we
removed any rough edges from the ends of the
frets and then tilted the block slightly to angle
the fret ends.
The centre line was still marked on our neck
and body, so we aligned them with the centre
line we had previously marked out on the
fingerboard and then glued them together.
When you glue pieces like this, the slippery
nature of wet glue can cause the pieces to
move around as clamping pressure is applied.
When you bring the pieces together, try leaving
them unclamped for a few minutes. This allows
the glue time to get an initial grab and the
pieces will be less prone to move about under
the clamps.
When you do apply clamping pressure using
several clamps, start off with them finger-tight
and then apply a small turn to each clamp one
by one. Once you see glue squeeze out all along
the joint line, you can be confident that you
have applied sufficient pressure.
Gluing the back on. Can you ever have

too many clamps in your garage? No
10
TRIMMING AND PREPPING
As supplied the top and back plates were crudely

cut, so there was a substantial amount of
overhang that had to be trimmed flush with the
sides. We used a fresh pack of Stanley knife
blades. Just work slowly, be very careful with
your fingers and follow the grain of the wood. If
it cuts easily and smoothly, youre probably
working with the grain. If the wood starts to chip
and flake, youre probably going against the
grain and you should work from the opposite
direction. As you trim in the neck and tail block
areas youll be cutting across the grain, which
11
can be tricky. Try pushing the blade through the

wood, along the grain line, at 1mm intervals to
create a comb effect, then slice across the
grain. If you do about 10mm at a time, its easy.
You dont need to trim 100 per cent flush with
the sides because you can complete the job by
sanding. Mahogany is an easy wood to work
with, and about half an hour with a detail sander
tidied up the edges and smoothed out the sides
at the same time. We continued using the detail
sander and hand sanding until the body and neck
were ready for finishing.
Go with the grain to trim top and back: here,

youll be working down into the waist
LOCATING THE BRIDGE
Bridges must be glued to bare wood, not lacquer,

for maximum strength. Placing a patch of
masking tape over the bridge area before the
finish is applied is much easier and quicker than
trying to scrape or sand away the finish after its
been applied.
We went back to the instructions for guidance
on locating the bridge. This uke has a scale
length of 348mm, so the instructions suggested
locating the saddle position 177mm from the
12th fret (the extra 3mm is added to ensure the
uke intonates properly). We placed a couple of
strips of masking tape over the bridge area then
held a straight edge against the edges of the
fingerboard and drew the neck lines onto the
masking tape along with the centre line.
Next we marked the neck lines 177mm from
the 12th fret and drew a connecting line between
them. The bridge was centralised with its saddle

slot aligned with the 177mm line, and we drew
around the outside edge with a pencil. A craft
knife was used to cut through the masking tape
just inside the pencil lines and then the excess
The bridge position is marked

on the patch of masking tape
masking tape was removed ,leaving the bridge

patch in place. Do take care to peel the tape
away along the grain lines rather than across it,
or otherwise you risk removing flakes of wood
along with the tape.
Then the excess tape is cut away. Doublecheck that the saddles in the right place
Ukulele kit PROJECT
12
APPLYING THE FINISH
Tonetech suggested applying grain filler first,

which is the usual procedure for mahogany. We
used white spirit-based filler that we brushed
on, allowed to dry for a short while, then wiped
off across the grain before leaving to dry
overnight. Although not included with the kit,
Tonetech supplied us with water-based sanding
sealer and gloss lacquer (8.50 each). These
products can be sprayed or brushed onto the
instrument; we decided to use a brush.
The sealer goes on quite thick, and after
drying overnight it sanded smooth with ease.
The lacquer dries very quickly and, as
recommended, we brushed on four coats of
lacquer with one-hour intervals between each
coat. Its very tricky to avoid getting brush
marks and lacquer build-up around the edges
and even after the finish is wet- and dry-sanded
then buffed up with polishing compound, it
doesnt have the depth that wed associate with
nitrocellulose. Maybe youll have better luck, but
we regretted not spraying nitro as usual.
13
14
FIXING THE BRIDGE
With the finish done, its time to glue on the

bridge. We peeled off the patch of masking tape
covering the bridge area and placed a piece of
masking tape at each end of the bridge area with
a third piece just in front. Next we marked the
177mm point once again to align the saddle slot,
and then we marked the centre point of the
bridge. Glue was applied to the base of the
bridge and we found that the tiny body made it
easy to clamp the bridge in place from the
outside. With the glue set, we removed the
clamps and glued on the cover strip over the
redundant screw holes.
15
Filling the grain of the mahogany

with a white spirit-based filler
TUNERS AND NUT
The stock nut was a fine fit and we simply fixed it

in place with a few dots of superglue. The tuner
bushes were pressed in from the front using a G
clamp; never attempt to hammer them in,
because you will inevitably dent the headstock.
The tuner posts also push in from the front, and
theyre secured by screws that pass through the
tuner buttons.
With the bridge masking removed, we apply

three pieces of tape as location markers
STRING UP AND PLAY
The saddle was inserted into the bridge slot and

knots were tied at one end of the strings to
secure them in their string slots at the back of
the bridge. The tuners work on the friction
principle with a 1:1 ratio. Although theyre
attractive and have an aura of authenticity,

theyre pretty crude. If you have hopes of
building a truly playable and practical
instrument, wed suggest a tuner upgrade would
be a smart move.
Strung up and ready to go: our kit ukulele is

ready for its first sunset serenade
Verdict
A success? Sure. Though the instructions
sometimes came across like they were
translated from the original Japanese via
Google Translate, they were quite easy
to follow. As kits go, this was about as
simple as they come. It would be a great
introduction to building, and anybody who
has previously completed an acoustic guitar
kit will find this a walk in the park. We

completed our ukulele over five days.
Getting our uke in tune and keeping it
tune was a bit of a struggle maybe those
plastic strings needed some time to stretch
out and settle down but the tone was
warm, mellow and woody. Some cheaper
ukes have a plinky, thin tone but this one
sounds like an all-solid wood instrument.
First, persuade the tuner bushes

into the headstock with a clamp
The finished headstock, with tuners

all assembled and the nut in place
Considering that you can buy an all-solid

mahogany uke such as the Ortega RU10
(with decent tuners and a gig bag) for just
over 100, building your own doesnt really
make economic sense. But thats not really
the point: putting this kit together is a lot of
fun, youll have the unique pride of playing
an instrument you built yourself, and it
sounds pretty sweet too.
WORKSHOP Classical makeover
CLASSICAL WORKSHOP
NYLON RENOVATIONS
Old hand-me-down nylon strung guitars have kick-started many a
youngsters playing career, but after a little work you might decide
yours is a keeper. DAVE KING gets an old friend ready for a new home
1 Bridge Not pretty, but

saveable. Note the added
screws
2 Removing the saddle Fret.
Pullers will hoick it out nicely
3 Tie block height is 1.5mm
lower to allow for the veneer
regularly get people bringing

in old nylon string guitars
for repair and setup. These
instruments have often been
in the cupboard for 30 years
and many have a sentimental
attachment (ah, the memory of
that first E minor). While some
are beyond saving, you do find
some with solid tops and decent
fretboards that can be brought back
to life, but few are worth paying

someone over a hundred pounds to
sort them out...
On the other hand, with a little
love and care most of the work can
be done at home. The nylon-string
guitar we have here was picked up
at a boot fair near Bryon Bay in
Australia around 15 years ago for
$2. After serving as a travel guitar
for years it went into the cupboard.
However, it does have a solid back

and sides, reasonable tuners and a
neck thats pretty straight so its
worth the effort.
Have a good look at the guitar
before you do anything, work out
what needs doing, and tackle one
task at a time. First, were going
to work on the bridge 1 . The
tie block (the bit the string goes
around) is a bit tatty. Its made from
Classical makeover WORKSHOP
a soft piece of maple and the strings

have pulled into it over the years.
The best thing we can do is
to plane it down a little and fix a
Macassar ebony veneer to the top
(it would often be made from bone
but bone is difficult to work with in
this situation, and ebony will work
well enough). Before you start to
plane the bridge down, cut out a
cardboard template to go around
the bridge; this will protect the
soundboard while youre working
on it. Youll also need to pull the
saddle out: for this, use a pair of
fret pullers 2 . The tie block needs
to finish up about half a millimetre
below the surface where the saddle
sits, so allowing for the thickness
of the ebony were going to put
on (1mm), we need to be a total of
1.5mm lower 3 . The best way to
plane a bridge down is to use a very
sharp block plane 4 (blunt tools
never, ever work properly).
This bridge has had screws put in
it at some point (probably to hold it
in place while being glued), so we
10
need to make sure we dont go over

the screws with the plane, as blades
really dislike metal.
If you want to remove them then
do so, and then drill the holes a
little deeper and replace them.
The ebony Im using was bought
as a head veneer from David Dykes
Luthier Supplies (01435 812315)
so its already the right thickness.
Cut the bridge veneer about half
a millimetre over length using a
cutting block 5 ; the ends can be
sanded smooth and to the correct
length using a sanding block and
cutting block. Make sure the end of
the cutting block is square: this way
the sanding block can run on the
end of it, ensuring the veneer ends
are sanded squarely 6 . Also make
sure the veneer is the right size it
will be difficult to reduce it once
glued to the bridge.
To glue the veneer, use some
bridge clamps with blocks of MDF
on the feet; Im using a block with
some cork glued to it to add more
protection and to ensure an even
11
clamping pressure 7 8 . Apply

the glue (Titebonds the stuff) to
the face of the bridge, and hold the
veneer firmly with your fingers for
a minute; this lets the glue grab
a little, and stops it from sliding
about when you tighten the clamps.
Place the clamping block over the
veneer, clamp it in place, clean off
any excess glue and leave it to dry
for 24 hours.
Once dry, the veneer can be
cleaned up using sanding sticks:
gently take the edges off the tie
block and clean the top face 9 .
Our bridge still looks a little worse
for wear, so well clean the rest of it
up using glasspaper, then stain the
rest of the bridge black again using
wood stain from a DIY shop 10 .
Mask the area around the bridge,
brush on the stain, and be very
careful: use too much and itll run
on to the top.
Now we can move onto stoning
the frets 11 , re-profiling the tops
and getting rid of the sharp
edges. Use a flat oilstone to level >
4 Planing the bridge. Your

plane should be scary sharp
5 Preparing the veneer.
Were using 1mm thick ebony
6 Square ends. Use a
sanding block and a cutting
block
7 Under Pressure. MDF and
cork blocks help keep it even
8 Gluing the veneer. Youll
need these proper long C
clamps
9 Finishing off. A sanding
stick gives the final touch
10 Adding stain. Careful: a

little black stain goes a very
long way
11 Stoning the frets. Nylon
strings mean much less wear
and tear
12 Check fretboard. A quality
straight edge is a lovely thing
12
WORKSHOP Classical makeover
13
13 Fret ends. This block

makes sure of a 35 degree
angle
14 Profiling frets. Work from
320 wet and dry up to 600
15 Frets polished. Fine wire
wool and lemon oil is the trick
16 Adding side dots. A useful
addition for beginners
17 Drill bit extension. Useful
when access gets tricky
18 Cutting off the dots. A
sharp chisel is best. Be careful
19 Saddle angle. Should
point downwards about
20 degrees
20 Sanding the saddle. Make
sure youre keeping it square
21 Lubing the tuners. Just a
tiny spot will be enough
14
the frets, working your way up

and down the fretboard using a
circular motion with the stone. The
frets on our test instrument are
pretty good and the neck is quite
straight, so all thats needed is a
very light stoning. When the frets
are level use an angled block set to
35 degrees and a sanding stick 13
to smooth off the edges of the frets.
Now all the frets are level with the
edge of the fretboard, its the time
to take off any sharp edges. I use a
triangular needle file with the edges
sanded smooth to stop the file from
removing wood from the fretboard.
Now the frets can be reprofiled
using a fret file, which are available
in different sizes to suit your
fret wire. Use either a fretboard
protector (Touchstone Tonewoods
01737 221064) or mask off between
the frets using masking tape to
avoid scratching the fretboard. Start
with some 320 grit paper wrapped
around the file 14 , keep going until
youve removed any marks left by
the oilstone, then move up to 600
15
grit wet and dry 15 . When the frets

are nicely profiled is give them a
polish with 0000-grade wire wool
and lemon oil.
How about some side dots? Most
classical players dont need them,
but I struggle with guitar playing
most of the time and any help I can
get is good, so this will certainly
be true for the average beginner.
The third, fifth, seventh, ninth and
12th positions will do just fine 16
. The plastic bar that Im using
comes in various colours and sizes:
a white 2mm diameter one will
do the job. Mark the centres of the
holes with a scriber, and check at
least twice; theres very little more
annoying than drilling the holes
in the wrong place. Youll probably
be able to use a drill for most of
the holes, but drilling at the 12 fret
can be difficult. I use a length of
dowel, and drill a hole in the end
with a 2mm drill bit . I then glue
the drill bit in with superglue, using
an extended drill bit 18 that will
allow you to get to the 12th fret
16
17
18
19
20
21
markers (or further, if you want

to). You dont need to use it in the
actual drill itself; just turn the dowel
by hand, as youre only going in a
couple of millimetres. Put a little
superglue in the holes and tap the
bar in gently with a hammer, leave
the to dry, and then cut it off using
snips. The bar can then be trimmed
level with the edge of the fretboard
using a nice sharp chisel 18 .
The nut and the saddle on this
guitar are bone, so theres no need
to replace them. The saddle needs
reshaping, though, as it appears to
be flat at the moment; it needs an
angle of about 20 degrees on the
top of it going down towards the tie
block 19 . Use a sanding block, 20
and once youve achieved the correct
angle youll also need to round over
the front edge of the saddle or itll
cut through the strings. Use the
sanding block to ensure a straight
edge, then polish with some 600
grit wet and dry.
Now for the strings. With
classical guitars, this is a whole
Classical makeover WORKSHOP
22
23
24
25
26
27
subject in itself. First, well put a

little oil on the tuners it may help
keep them working for another 30
years 21 . Lets start with the two E
strings. Pictures 22 and 23 show
how they are tied to the tie block:
the wound strings are wrapped
around themselves once and locked
at the back of the tie block, but the
treble strings which have more
of a tendency to slip are wound
around themselves twice before
being locked at the back of the tie
block, with the tension on the string
holding it all place and stopping any
slippage. At the tuning head end we
have to do a similar thing 24 . Put
the string through the hole, then
pull it back around itself; when the
string is tensioned one gets locked
under the other, and stays in place.
With the two E strings on, check
the action at the 1st fret 25 and the
12th fret. At the first fret on the bass
string you should be looking for a
gap between the top of the fret and
the underside of the string of about
0.7mm, and at the 12th fret for a
28
gap of between 3.4mm and 4mm

26 depending on your playing
and the type of string used (higher
tension strings will generally play
at a lower action; the more tension
on a string, the smaller the circle it
will vibrate in). On the treble string
youll again need about 0.7mm at
the first fret and 2.7mm to 3mm at
the 12th fret. Start off on the high
side, as its easy to lower the action,
but to raise it youll need a new nut
and saddle. If the strings are too
high, bring them down a little at a
time from both ends. If you lower it
right down at the nut then reduce it
by a touch at the 12th fret, you will in
turn lower it more at the first fret.
The good news: as the strings
on nylon-strung guitars are all of
a similar gauge, youll only need
one or two nut files. Hold the file
at an angle of about 10 degrees to
ensure the string is held firmly over
the nut, and file down a little at a
time 27 . When youve done the E
strings, put the rest of the strings
on and adjust all the strings so that
29
the tops are level 28 .

To reduce the action at the 12th
fret youll need to slacken the
strings off and remove material
from the underside of the saddle.
Mark the amount to take off with a
felt tip and use the sanding block
with a square fence; this will make
sure the bottom of the saddle stays
nice and flat 29 . Once happy with
the action you can finish the top
of the nut to leave just half of the
string protruding 30 , and, when
you pop the nut back on, add a
touch of glue underneath to hold
it in place. With nylon strings its a
good idea to tune them up to pitch
and stretch them by pulling them
away from the fretboard, tuning
to pitch and repeating a few times
until they stop slipping.
So a decent Spanish guitar has
been saved from the scrapheap and
is ready to place in a beginners
hands. Trouble is, a correctly set-up
classical is such a nice thing to have
around that you might be rather
tempted to keep it for yourself
22 Wound strings need just

one wrap under
23 Treble string wrap. The
plain ones need an extra turn
24 The locking trick works
works at the headstock, too
25 Where the action is. About
0.7mm is right at the first fret
26 At the octave up to 4mm
higher than a steel string
27 When cutting nut slots
remember that important
break anglel
28 Make sure the string tops
are level at the nut
29 All strung up. A properly
strung bridge: no slippage
30 The finished nut. Note the
slots are just half a string deep
30
WORKSHOP Amp
Xxxxxxxxxxx
check
AMP CHECK WORKSHOP
SOUND OF SILENCE
Its a guitarists nightmare: tuned up, ready to go and you amp

doesnt work. HUW PRICE outlines some steps you can take, but be
warned: electronics can kill. If in doubt, see your tech
ll amps, eventually, go wrong.

Its simply a fact of life. If
youre lucky, itll happen
at home or in rehearsal;
the electronic version of
Murphys Law dictates that itll
happen at a far more awkward, and
public, occasion. Sometimes its
just a gradual deterioration in tone
due to valves going beyond their

sell-by date, resistors drifting off
value, or capacitors becoming leaky.
But, amps can also fail completely.
This article isnt about
maintenance issues or tone tweaks;
well be discussing what can you do
when little or no signal comes out of
the speaker. Well draw up a check
list that may allow you to figure

out whats wrong with your amp
and perhaps fix it yourself. Getting
into the nitty gritty of component
replacement goes beyond the scope
of this article, but if you can figure
out whats wrong, it may save your
amp tech time, save you money
and maybe save the gig.
CHECK THE FUSES
Is the amp completely dead, with no pilot light

and no orange glow from the valves? If so, the
circuitry of your amp probably isnt seeing any
electricity. First of all, check the fuse in the
mains plug after removing it from the wall
socket. You may need to take the back off the
plug to do this if its an old fashioned
non-sealed type. Test the fuse with a
multimeter and while youre in there, check
that all three cables are securely connected to
their respective pins.
Most amps will also have a fuse socket on
the chassis, often in the vicinity of the mains
input. Remove the fuse and test it. If its blown,
simply replace the fuse with another of the
same rating. If that new fuse blows, youll
know for sure that something is wrong inside
the amp. Replacing a fuse with a jumper
connection is never an option. The fuse is there
to protect you and your amp. If the fuse isnt
the problem, you need to start substituting
valves. Jump to item No 4!
The fuse: so obvious,

but examine this first
Amp check WORKSHOP
CHECK THE
RECTIFIER VALVE
IDENTIFYING FAULTY VALVES
If the pilot light is on, but the amp produces no

sound not even hiss or hum there may be a
problem with the rectifier valve. Many valve
amps will have solid state (diode) rectification
to convert AC into DC. If your amp does have a
rectifier valve, the most common types will be
labelled GZ34, 5Y3, 5AR4 or EZ81. Rectifiers can
look very similar to power tubes so, if youre
unsure, check your valve code on line to
determine what type it is. The best way to
troubleshoot your rectifier is to substitute it
for an equivalent that you know is working.
CHECK THE SPEAKER
Before moving onto the circuit board and the

components, its best to verify that the speaker
is working. With your amp turned off, set your
multimeter to its lowest resistance setting,
unplug the speaker jack from the chassis and
touch the metal probes to the tip and sleeve
sections of the jack plug. You should hear some
popping or crackling if everything is ok.
If theres no noise, try touching the probes
against the positive and negative terminals of
the speaker. Noise from the speaker would then
indicate that one or both of the speaker cables is
faulty, or maybe a solder joint has failed inside
the jack plug. Use your eyes and your multimeter
to trace the problem. If theres still no noise, the
speaker may be blown. Try plugging your amp
into a working speaker cab to verify this, then
repair or replace the broken speaker.
Check the speaker both

at the speaker jack and
the terminals
VALVE SWAPPING
Old Fender amps, like this 1950s
Deluxe shown on the right, had a
very straightforward valve
layout. The audio signal moves
from the first preamp valve on
the far right to the power valves
on the left. The rectifier valve on
the far right is located next to the
mains transformer.
Amps often stop producing
sound due to valve failure
without blowing any fuses.
Fortunately, valves are really
Amps blow fuses when excessive current is

being drawn. This can happen when a valve goes
faulty, so substituting valves in known working
condition may solve the problem of blowing
fuses. Try removing all the valves, then switch
the amp on. If the fuse blows, the problem isnt
being caused by the valves so jump straight to
item No 7, over the page.
If the fuse doesnt blow, there a good chance
that one of the valves is the guilty party. Turn
the amp off, reinstall the rectifier valve, and
switch on. If everything is fine, repeat the
quite easy to swap. Firstly, do a

visual check. Are all the valves
glowing orange? You may need
to remove any metal covers
and dim the lights to be sure. If
one or more of the valves isnt
glowing, there may be a problem.
However, a valve may still glow
even if it has stopped passing
audio signal.
With the amp switched off,
pull out a valve and replace
it with an equivalent that you
already know is working. Then
simply work your way through all
the valves one at a time, and if
youre lucky your amp will burst
procedure with the power valves (one at a time)

and rectifier valve installed.
Work your way through the amp, adding one
valve each time until the fuse blows again. If
you do identify which valve may be faulty, try
swapping it with a verified equivalent. If the
fuse still blows, it may not be that particular
valve, but theres a strong possibility that the
fault lies with one or more of the components
within the vicinity of that valve socket. You
might need several fuses to complete this
section of our troubleshooting guide.
into life as soon as the faulty

valve is replaced.
Alternatively, put all the valves
from your faulty amp into a
functioning amp one at a time
until the good amp suddenly
stops working. If none of the
valves causes the previously
functioning amp to fail, then
the problem with your amp is
unlikely to be the valves.
One word of warning valves
get hot! If you cant wait for them
to cool down, make sure you
protect your fingers with an oven
glove or something similar when
youre removing them.
WORKSHOP Amp check
CHECKING THE HEATER AND PLATE VOLTAGES
The power supply section of every valve amp

delivers a high DC voltage for the plates of the
valves and a second voltage for the valve
heaters (typically 6.3 volts AC). Assuming that
a working speaker is properly connected and
all the valves tested okay, its time to test the
internal voltages. Before continuing we should
stress that this is the point where things can
become dangerous.
Lets test the heater voltage first. Set your
voltmeter to the appropriate scale usually
around double the voltage youre expecting to
read then secure the meters negative probe
firmly against the amp chassis and turn the
amplifier back on. Hold the meters positive
probe in one hand and put your other hand in
your pocket.
You must never touch the amp with both
hands while testing circuitry. Doing so risks
taking an electric shock across the heart, and
that will probably kill you.
Here are the socket connections for the most common

preamp valve types. The EF86 pentode has a different
connection layout to the common double triode valves.
This is the reason why you cant swap them without
re-wiring the socket
Here are the socket connections for

the most common power amp
valve types
Still feeling confident? If so,

bring that positive probe down
onto the heater pins of one of
the sockets of the audio valves
and check that the meter reads
around 6.3 volts. The heater
pins will vary depending on the type of valve, so
refer to the diagrams. Wed suggest verifying the
heater voltage on one of the preamp valves.
The high voltage is applied to the plates
(anodes) of the valves. Try to determine where
you can measure the output voltage of the power
supply section. Alternatively you can also take
readings from the plates of the audio valves.
This is a little more complicated because the
plates are usually connected via dropping
resistors. If possible you should try to find a
schematic or circuit diagram for your amp. Many
of these will include target voltages at key points
in the circuit. If you dont have this information,
you should expect to read something between
160v and 260v on the plates of a preamp valve
and between 350v and 550v on the plates of
power valves.
If your readings fall somewhere within those
areas, it doesnt necessarily mean that the
voltages throughout the amp are correct.
However it does suggest that the power supply
section of the amp is working properly and that
your mains transformer is okay. Always set the
scale on your voltmeter so its around twice what
youd expect the actual voltage to be.
POP TESTING
Dont worry; the pop test isnt another

competitive karaoke show from the malevolent
mind of Simon Cowell. Its actually a simple and
straightforward method for tracing faults in
audio circuits, and engineers have been using it
since the year dot.
The pop test is also known as the circuit
disturbance test. The idea is to work your way
from the output stage to the input stage of your
amp using a probe. You should hear a pop or
crackle every time you touch the probe to a test
point. As you work towards the input stage of
the amp, these noises should get louder. As soon
as you get to the point where the test noise gets
quieter rather than louder, or disappears
altogether, youll have identified at least one of
the problem areas.
All the test points are on the valves
themselves. By and large, audio signals enter the
valve at the grid and exit at the plate/anode. So
when youre pop testing, you need to touch the
anode/plate first, then the grid remember,
were working backwards. For a suitable probe,
try using a small-bladed screwdriver with a
heavily insulated handle. Again, keep one hand
behind your back or in your pocket, and never
touch any of the metal parts.
If your amp has inter-stage volume controls,
they should be turned up slightly. It also helps
enormously if you have a schematic/circuit

diagram for the amp youre working on.
Sometimes a schematic is provided in the
instruction manual but if not, you can usually
find one on line. You can actually do your pop
tests at the same time that youre checking your
HT/B+ voltages.
In this diagram you can see the sequence of
the pop test points for a 5E3-type Fender Deluxe.
If you understand the principle, you should be
able to figure out the sequence for any amp if
you have access to the schematic. If you dont
understand the principle, then you almost
certainly shouldnt be doing this sort of
maintenance work just yet.
MAINS TRANSFORMER
This cathode bias resistor the lowest component

shows signs of overheating. The body is quite
dark and the colour bands have faded
When an amp comes in for repair, its always

best if you ask the owner what happened when
the amp failed. Our G&B colleague Martyn
Casserly seemed oddly relaxed when
describing how the Master Volume control
started making noises, then stopped working
and a bit of smoke started coming out the
back of the cab. Burning and smoking can
be complimentary terms used to describe
amps, but when these characteristics become
literal rather than figurative, you can be fairly
certain that something of a pretty serious
nature has occurred.
Excess heat and burning usually leave
tell-tale signs on components, so opening up
the amp and carrying out a visual inspection
for burned or discoloured components was the
best place to start. One of the resistors in the
power supply looked discoloured to us which
is usually a sign of excessive heat (see
picture). We didnt like the look of the cathode
bias resistor either.
But more worryingly the mains transformer
became very hot and this was accompanied by
a burning smell. There was also a slight
buzzing/humming noise that became louder
as the transformer heated up. We let
everything cool down, removed all the valves
and powered up again. The result was the
same even with no load on the transformer.
We concluded that insulation inside the
mains transformer had possibly failed and a
new transformer may be required. However,
we decided to replace the dodgy-looking
resistors just in case. We used wire-wound
resistors rated at 5W. Resistors are cheap and
they were easy to install, so it was worth a try.
Unfortunately the transformer continued to
overheat and mains fuses blew quite quickly,
so at this point we decided that the Carrera
amp should be turned over to a properly
qualified tech. Knowing your limits is a good
thing when youre dealing with dangerous
voltages and expensive components.
www.westsidedistribution.com
WORKSHOP Reconing
RECONING WORKSHOP
HOW SPEAKERS WORK

Did you know that moving coil
dynamic microphones like
Shure SM57s and SM58s are
actually speakers in reverse?
Their basic construction is
so similar that many studio
engineers sometimes use
Yamaha NS10 drivers as lowfrequency microphones on
kick drums and bass guitars.
Both have diaphragms fixed to
solid structures around their
outside edges (plastic for the
microphone, a paper cone for
guitar speakers) which are
in turn fixed to tubular coil
formers wound with metal
coils. The coil and former
assemblies are inserted into a
circular gap between the north
and south poles of a magnet,
and the built-in springiness
around the edges of the
diaphragm allow the coils to
move forwards and backwards
inside the magnet gap.
A mic transforms acoustic
energy into to electrical energy
that we can record. Speakers do
the exact opposite they turn
electrical energy into acoustic
energy. An alternating current
from by a guitar amp is fed to
the wire coil, which causes the
coil assembly to move forwards
and backwards. This in turn
moves the speaker cone, which
compresses air particles in
front of it to form sound waves
like the soundboard of an
acoustic guitar.
CONE IMPROVEMENTS
If you have a nice old speaker with a blown or non-original cone,
you need to read HUW PRICES guide to fixing it yourself
ooner or later most vintage

amp owners will face a
dilemma: what is more
important originality or
functionality? Its a fact of life
that capacitors go leaky, valves wear
out, and speakers blow. This month
were going to figure out what can
be done when those old speaker
cones finally give out..
Guitar speakers have to take a
lot of punishment. Many old amps
are regularly cranked up louder
than their designers ever intended,
and the speakers are often pushed
beyond their limits. This will take
its toll, and even if they dont burn
1 This 70s Celestion G12H

was in a terrible state and a
perfect candidate for a recone.
This photograph shows how
the spider had already become
detached from the chassis
2 The cone has been
removed, but at this stage the
cork gasket is still in place
out or blow, many speaker cones

will split or tear, especially around
the edges. Most are made from
paper, which doesnt last forever.
So what can you do when a lovely
old Vox Blue, Celestion Greenback
or Jensen becomes a liability? Some
might advocate boxing it up for
posterity and replacing it with a
repro or a replacement from Weber
or Tone Tubby. But whats the point
in having an all-original but useless
speaker stashed when you could
re-cone it for another 40 years of
service? You could do the recone
yourself and even change the
impedance while youre at it.
Here, we have a go at repairing

an old Celestion G12H Greenback.
Thousands were made and there
must be countless examples in
various states of disrepair all over
the country. If the date codes
published on www.unclespot.com/
celestion_date_codes.html are to be
believed, ours was made on March
2, 1973. Celestion sells recone kits
for most of its classic and current
speakers, and G12 kits come in 8
Ohm and 16 Ohm versions.
Emptying the basket

Our speaker was absolutely filthy,
having sat on a shelf for several
Reconing WORKSHOP
3 We put a couple of
squares of gaffer tape over the
gap to keep everything clean
4 Removing the cork

gaskets isnt hard. We
removed most of them with a
wood chisel
5 Heres the basket after
finishing off the cleaning with
some acetone
6 A brass brush on a Dremel
polished up the surface of the
spider with good results
years. There were two holes in the

cone and the spider had detached
from its gluing surface all around
its edge 1 . Keeping everything
clean is essential when youre
reconing, and the gap for the voice
coil has to be kept completely free
of debris. I started by snipping the
two wires and cutting around the
top edge of the cone. I carefully
lifted out the cone, spider and voice
coil assembly 2 , then immediately
covered the voice coil gap with tape
3 . Its essential to keep that gap as
clean as possible; masking tape or
gaffer tape will be fine.
Using a damp cloth, I wiped
decades of dust off the metal basket,
and set about the gluing surfaces.
The outer edges of the cone are
glued to the top of the basket, and
a set of cork gaskets are glued on
top. Some people cut these off with
a Stanley knife, but I found it easier

to gently prise off the cloth cone
material and gaskets using an old
chisel 4 . Its hard work but it goes
quite quickly, just as long as youre
not trying to remove every last bit.
To shift the old glue residue, brush
on some acetone and let it soak
for a few seconds before scraping
any remaining material off the
metalwork 5 . Since the spider had
already been blown off its surface,
less cleaning was needed in that
area. There was some surface rust,
so I put a small brass brush on my
Dremel tool and set about cleaning
both gluing surfaces back to shiny
metal 6 . Brass is better than steel
because any loose strands wont
stick to the magnet. Alternatively
you could use sandpaper, but be
sure not to leave any abrasive
particles behind.
Mind the gap

Ive already mentioned keeping
stuff from getting into the voice
coil gap when youre preparing a
speaker for a recone, but youve
also got to clean out the gap. I
started with a quick blow from
a compressed air aerosol just
like the type that can be used for
cleaning computer keyboards and
relicing nitro cellulose finishes.
Next I took a thin strip of
cardboard and a strip of masking
tape and wrapped the masking tape
over the end of the strip with the
sticky side facing outwards. Take
a little bit of the stickiness off the
tape by pinching it a few times with
your fingers or wiping it against
your clothes, and then push the
tape into the gap. The cardboard
strip provides the necessary
rigidity for the task, and you
>
7 Cleaning the voice

coil gap with acetone on a
kitchen towel wrapped
around some card
8 Centering shims are used
to accurately position the coil
former in the gap
guitar-bass.net GUITAR DIY BIBLE 115
WORKSHOP Reconing
9 The next stage: the

centering shims are removed,
ready for the dust cover
10 The dust cap can be
lowered into place using a
sticky tape handle
11 The final touch: new lead
out wires are connected to the
chassis terminals
10
should be able to carefully move

the masking taped cardboard in
a circular motion around the gap
and pick up any lurking dust or
debris. Perform this several times,
and then repeat the process using
kitchen paper soaked in acetone to
wipe the surfaces of the gap 7 .
The dry run

Once youre confident that the gap
is as clean as it could be, its time
to try a dry run at assembling the
speaker. Make sure the lead out
cables line up with the chassis
terminals, and drop the voice coil
into the gap. Celestions recone kit
includes four cardboard shims to
help you to centre the coil former
in the gap. Simply push these down
in between the inside of the coil
former and the inside edge of the
gap 8 . If all goes well, you should
be ready for the real thing.
Sticky moments
Glue isnt included with the kit but
Celestion recommend a clear slowsetting rubbery contact adhesive
such as Bostik 1782 to stick the
spider and cone to the metalwork.
Now its time to put this thing
together. First apply a continuous
SPEAKER
COMPONENTS
BASKET
The metal chassis of the speaker that
all the parts are attached to
CONE
Guitar speaker cones are usually made
from paper (aluminium has some
followers among bass players). Its often
be dead straight, but sometimes its
flared. Earlier designs are often smooth
but later designs are ribbed to increase
stiffness and tighten up the bass
response. The edge of the cone is glued
onto the basket, and this is what moves
to produce the actual soundwaves
11
bead of the glue to the area where

the spider is fixed to the chassis,
and then apply another bead all
around the outside of the chassis
for the edge of the cone. Allow the
glue to sit for five minutes to let it
go tacky and then, after ensuring
the cables line up with the chassis
terminals, slide the coil former into
the gap using the centering shims
to guide it home until the spider
settles on the glue bead.
Eyeball the top of the cone to
ensure its centred, then press it
down onto the glue. You can use
one side of a disassembled clothes
peg to work your way around the
edge, and use your finger to press
down the edge of the spider. The
four cork gaskets should then be
attached using the same glue bead
method. Make sure the fixing bolt
notches line up with the holes
drilled into the outside edge of the
basket. The gaskets should also butt
up tightly against one another. Once
theyre in place, flip the speaker
over onto a flat surface and allow its
weight to press the joints together
for a few hours while the glue dries.
Capping it off
Finally, remove the cardboard
COIL ASSEMBLY
A tube or cylindrical former that is
glued onto the inside of the cones
base. This forms a rigid structure for
the magnet wire wound around its
outer surface
SPIDER
A flexible cloth membrane thats glued
to the outside of the cones base then
glued to the base of the basket. The
spider helps to centre the coil in the
magnet gap and forms a barrier
against debris
Verdict
Besides being diligent about
cleaning the coil gap, reconing a
guitar speaker like a Celestion G12
is relatively easy. Unless youre able
to get a discount by buying recone
kits in bulk, it probably isnt going
to save you much money but it
only takes an hour or so, and its a
lot of fun. Im planning to do the
same to an old Jensen and a pair of
Elacs, and I cant wait to hear what
they sound like.
DUST CAP
A dome of paper or fabric thats glued
onto the base of the cone to keep debris
out of the magnet gap
transformer is attached to the speaker
CHASSIS TERMINALS
These are the positive and negative
terminals where the speaker wire that
comes from the amplifiers output
CONTACT
www.celestion.com
01473 835300
www.lean-business.co.uk
Celestion G12 Recone Kit

supplied by Celestion
Surround
Cone
Dust Cap
MAGNET GAP
The circular air space between the
annular pole and centre pole of the
magnet assembly where the coil
assembly is inserted
centering shims 9 and glue on

the dust cap. The edge of the cap is
angled to conform to the cone, so it
centres up nicely. Place it correctly,
then carefully draw a pencil line
around the edge. Remove the dust
cap, apply a bead of glue along
the inside edge of the pencil line
then, using a loop of masking tape
as a handle 10 carefully position
the dust cap onto the glue. You
can use a shot glass or an egg cup
as a weight while the glue dries.
While youre waiting, heat up
your soldering iron and attach the
new hook up wires to the chassis
terminals 11 . The job is finished,
but do leave the glue to set for a day
before hooking up the speaker.
Chassis
or Basket
Coil Former
Coil
Centre Pole
Annular Pole
Magnet
Read
on any device,
at any time!
MICRO MACHINES
MICRO MACHINES
Mooer Firefly M6
Yerasov SCS 8-way
Russian technology and a Secret Connection System? Sounds like FX espionage
PRICE 39.99 CONTACT www.mooeraudio.co.uk
PRICE 74 CONTACT www.yerasov.co.uk
While the Firefly snugly

accommodates Mooer pedals,
you can alter the cut-outs
50mm
389mm
robust case in the world the panels

are metallic-painted hardboard, the
frame is aluminium and the fittings
are a little flimsy as a compact,
fuss-free setup for jam sessions,
rehearsals and pub gigs, we really
like this. That said, the case hasnt
been designed to carry the required
external mains adaptor, so youll
have to remember to put that in your
guitar case.
With the lid detached and your
pedals powered up, the fully-loaded
board is a little prone to skidding
around; the feet on the underside
of the board section could do with
being more rubbery.
The Mooer pedals themselves
generally perform well; many of the
companys designs are, shall we say,
inspired by familiar circuits, and in
numerous instances the choice of
colour and typeface tell you exactly

what to expect. If you are starting
your pedalboard from scratch, by the
time you factor in the purchase of
six pedals, five Z connectors and an
external power adaptor, the Firefly
will be starting to look like less of
a bargain; but if you already have
a bunch of Mooer pedals, then this is
a sensible choice.
power supply into any one of the

stompboxes and all eight will be
powered up.
Stripped of pedals, thanks to
the RJ connectors, the SCS board
resembles a piece of equipment
from a telephone call-centre more
closely than it does a piece of guitar
gear, but when everything has been
assembled its both sturdy underfoot
and straightforward to use. Yerasov
VERDICT
+ Very neat and tidy solution
+ No need for velcro or zip ties
Can be used with Mooer pedals only,
unless modified
Mains adaptor not supplied and

doesnt fit in the case
It might not stand up to heavy road
use, but for rehearsals, jam nights and
pub gigs, this is a neat solution
7/10
24 SEPTEMBER 2015 guitar-bass.net
No, this is not a picture of

the back of our office
modem, its Yerasovs SCS
erasov does things a little

differently from other
manufacturers, and this
SCS board short for Secret
Connection System employs a PCB
and RJ connectors inside, which
distribute both audio and power.
Each individual pedal is also secured
in place by a thumbscrew; when
the whole thing is hooked up, you
simply plug a standard 9V 500mA
111m
compression pad, with only the

connector ends visible above the
surface, where two sections of
pre-cut foam hold the pedals in
place without the need for velcro.
Though the cut-outs are designed to
hold only Mooer pedals, it wouldnt
be beyond the DIY skills of many of
us to take a craft knife and widen
the outlines to facilitate the use of
pedals made by other brands.
The combination of the hidden
daisy chain and Mooers Z pedal
connectors (5.95 each) is extremely
neat and, though its not the most
167m
t last count, Mooer

manufactured more than
50 mini stompboxes.
The Firefly M6 is a lightweight
pedalboard designed to hold up to
six of them, with a detachable lid for
performance use. Unscrewing the
six crosshead screws that secure the
board surface to the bottom half of
the mini flightcase reveals that the
pedals sit on a 4mm thick section
of acrylic thats resting on a pair
of rubberised foam compression
pads. The daisy chain power lead
lives in the void behind the rear
32mm
Mini-flightcase board designed to hold a sextet of Mooer stompboxes
523mm
also makes six-way (65) and

four-way (54) versions if you dont
require as many individual sounds
from your board.
The pedals themselves will all
function conventionally as part of
a more traditional setup, but when
used in conjunction with the SCS
Footswitch here (also listed as the
FS12 Loop Selector), it gives you a
master on/off switch that enables
you to trigger any number of the
effects at once. The SCS Footswitch
also doubles as a headphone amp
or direct out with switchable 1x12 or
2x12 cabinet emulation and a choice
of EQ curves based on Jenson (clean)
and Eminence (lead) drivers.
Plugged into a decent valve
combo, the Screamer and
Compressor pedals sound
particularly good in combination;
given that the pedal selection here
also includes a pair of distortions
and a chorus, its difficult to resist
getting sucked into some sort of
1980s hair metal timewarp, but

thats not mandatory.
It is worth noting, however, that
assembling this set-up, as reviewed,
would cost well in excess of 700.
While over time, many players total
spend on a fully-featured pedalboard
stocked with quality stompboxes
might amount to more than that,
youd have to really buy into the
SCS philosophy to make such a
significant investment.
VERDICT
+ Innovative approach that
minimises cabling
+ Using the SCS Footswitch to activate

multiple effects is very effective
Carry bag offers no padding

When you factor in the cost of the
individual pedals, it quickly
becomes an expensive option
Its niche, for sure, but Yerasov is at
least bringing something different to
a cluttered market
7/10
>
guitar-bass.net SEPTEMBER 2015 25
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22/07/2015 16:46
PROJECT Preamp
PREAMP PROJECT
SHURE THING
How about the prospect of four classic-sounding microphone preamps for a mere
50 or so? HUW PRICE shows you how to turn the venerable and commonly-available
Shure M67 four-channel mixer into a phat front end for your recording setup
1 Built between 1968 - 1988,

the Shure M67 has gained a bit
of a reputation in vintage audio
circles. With a few changes, it
can be transformed into a mic
preamp thatll add warmth and
depth to home recordings of
vocals, electrics and acoustics,
basses or even drums
Here are the four original

input transformers with circuit
input connections on the left
edge of the board, shown prior
to our cunning relocation
2
3 This shot shows the gain

controls and high pass filter
capacitors of the stock unit.
Were going to shift these gain
controls back up the signal
chain, putting them after the
input transformer
any of us have home

recording setups, but few
have the facilities to record
a live band or even a drum
kit. Even if we have enough
microphones, the usual problem
is that we havent got enough
mic preamps. Most semi-pro mic
preamps/digital interfaces only
have a couple of mic pres; the
spares are for line level signals.
Interfaces with multiple mic pres
tend to be expensive, while the
sonic quality of budget units is
frequently indifferent..
If youre up for a bit of soldering,
though, you could modify a vintage
Shure M67 four-channel mic amp/

mixer, obtainable for around 50.
We picked up a 240v version for
30 from an online auction, and set
about the conversion.
The Shure M67

Shure made the M67 for 20 years,
so theyre plentiful. Eddie Kramer
even used them to record Woodstock
festival, and the basic circuit never
changed. Were dealing with old
school discrete electronics, so you
wont find any microchips or op
amps just four proper mu-metal
input transformers and a bunch
of transistors and carbon comp
resistors. This is the stuff that causes

modern makers to wax lyrical in
their advertising, and charge you a
premium.
The stock design routes all four
mic inputs to one output via a
shared second gain stage, as M67s
are actually mono mixers. Well
show you how to reconfigure the
circuit for individual outputs. Well
keep the second gain stage on
channel 4, and relocate the gain
control to help the M67 cope with
high-level sources like electric
guitar and drums. Lastly well be
adding switchable phantom power
so the M67 can interface with
Preamp PROJECT
modern condenser microphones.

Gain control
The stock M67s input
transformers 2 bump up the
gain, which feeds straight onto the
transistors great for fuzztone, but
useless for recording cleanly. The fix:
move the gain control from after the
transistor gain stage 3 to a position
between the input transformer and
the transistors 4 . Channel 4s
transformer wire will need to be
extended to reach the gain controls,
but thats very simple.
Heres how to do it. First, each
gain control has an orange wire
leading from the centre tag to the
centre tag of the Lo-Cut switch:
remove them all. Secondly, there are
four wires leading from the circuit
board to the bottom tag of each
control brown (1), red (2), orange
(3) and yellow (4). Disconnect each
one from the potentiometer and
reconnect them to the now vacant
centre tags of the corresponding
Lo-Cut switches.
Thirdly, there are some white
cables connecting the outputs of the
transformers to the circuit board
theyre labelled, so reading from
the back of the chassis to the front
the order is 1, 2, 3, 4. De-solder
these from the board and reconnect
them to the bottom tags of the gain

controls. Finally, solder fresh cables
between the centre tag of each
volume control and the relevant
input tags on the circuit board
where the input transformers were
originally connected.
Individual outputs
The M67 has some unusual and
unnecessary features 5 so to clear
some space, we disconnected the
headphone output 6 . Its easy to
do the connections are tied onto
the green and white cables that lead
to the Line Out connections. Well
reuse this socket for output 1.
The line outputs are loudspeakertype connections hardly
compatible with modern wiring
conventions. Disconnect the brown
and yellow cables from pins 2 and
3 of the mic output XLR, cover the
ends with heat-shrink, and replace
them with the green and white
cables that are connected to the
line outputs. These come from the
output transformer, so output 4 will
be transformer-balanced. When the
line output terminals are removed,
the holes are the right size to
accommodate TRS jack sockets for
outputs 2 and 3 7 & 8 .
Going back to the first three
channels, on the circuit board

between gain controls 3 and 4 youll
see four 33K resistors with three
orange bands labelled 1-4 9 .
This is where the individual input
stages join the shared mixer stage
via blue cables leading from the
Lo-Cut switches.
Were going to retain the extra
gain stage on channel 4, so leave
that blue cable intact. The three
others can be snipped off close to
the circuit board. De-solder the
other ends of the blue cables from
the Lo-Cut switches and install
longer cables that will reach from
the switches to the tip connections
of the individual output jacks
we installed earlier. The ring
and sleeves should be connected
together then connected onto the
ground wire running along the
top of the XLR sockets. This will
provide three pseudo-balanced
outputs for the lowest possible
noise levels, and you will be able to
use balanced cables to connect to
your digital interface.
Phantom power
M67s were designed to run on
battery power as well as mains.
Whats more, one mainsconnected M67 could be used to
>
4 The gain controls and

high-pass filter capacitors
post-modification. We chose
to use a different value cap on
the switches: see Bass Roll-Off
5 The Shures original
output connectors are,
frankly, no good for the likes
of us. Were going to clear this
lot out and make some space
6 At the top of the picture
you can see the three
holes that remain after we
removed the Shures original
headphone and line out
connections
7 Ah, thats better. Two
new output sockets have been
installed along with a switch
for the phantom power useful
for protecting ribbon mics
PARTS LIST
8 x 6.8K resistors
4 x 68mF electrolytic
capacitors (axial)
Mini toggle switch
2 x TRS jack sockets
4 x 0.1mF to 0.2mF audio
grade (axial)
PROJECT
INTERVIEW
Preamp
Vinnie Moore & Paul Raymond | UFO
8 Its all taking shape. This

photo shows the new output
connection wiring, as seen
from the inside of the chassis
9 Here are the four 33k
resistors where the individual
inputs join the mixer stage.
Note the three bands of
orange on each one
10 Above left you can see a

redundant red 30v terminal
with the ground tag above
it. Were going to use that
terminal to provide our
phantom power
11 Phantom power parts
with two high-tolerance 6.8k
resistors feeding XLR pins
2 and 3 with a cap between
the resistor junction and the
XLR pin
power two more M67s using the 30v

terminals on the rear panel 10 . So
that redundant 30v supply can be
used for phantom power.
Although 48v is the nominal
power supply for condenser mics,
many will run on lower voltages,
as not all mixing desks provide the
full 48v. Phantom power will come
on at power up, but if you like to
use ribbon mics, a phantom on/off
switch is a wise option. Next to the
power cord theres a screw terminal
labelled Ground. Its not connected
to anything, so we can remove it
and widen the hole with a drill bit
or cone cutter to accommodate a
phantom power switch.
You can simply solder a cable
onto the positive terminal of the
30v supply and route it to pins 2
and 3 of each XLR input via pairs of
6.8Kohm resistors and four 68mF
electrolytic capacitors. If you decide
to fit a switch, solder the 30v feed
to the centre pin then attach the
phantom power cable to the top or
bottom lug.
Bass roll-off
I decided to keep the switchable
bass roll-off because many mics
that are commonly used for guitar,
like the Shure SM57, dont have

bass-cut switches. Some budget
condensers are the same, and a
phenomenon called the proximity
effect can make the bass sound
boomy and muddy.
I found the stock 0.022mF
capacitors a little over-zealous.
The manual seems to indicate a
corner frequency of around 350Hz
and since our acoustic guitar test
recordings sounded thin and
unnatural, I decided to lower
the corner frequency to around
100Hz. The roll-off capacitors
are wired directly onto the Lo-Cut
Filter switches on the front panel
so theyre easy to get at; simply
remove the originals and replace
them with values of your choice.
Various websites have the formula
to calculate the exact capacitor value
needed to hit any chosen frequency,
and after crunching some numbers
we determined that we needed
a cap value between 0.1mF and
0.2mF. Feel free to experiment;
the best value will depend on the
input impedance of your digital
interface as well as your chosen
mic. Remember that the capacitor
is in the signal path, so use audio
quality replacements.
Channel 4 gain
Although the first three channels
have plenty of gain for electric
guitar, bass, drums or any other
loud source, theyre a bit marginal
for quiet sources. You can get away
with close micing a strummed
acoustic, but delicate fingerpicking
isnt really an option. So thats why
I left channel 4 feeding into the
mixer gain stages, giving enough
gain for just about any application.
Verdict
This simple project wont cost you
much money, but the best bit is that
this Shure M67 sounds
phenomenal. Many of the sonic
characteristics of records from the
analogue era are attributed to
valves, but transistor mic preamps
like early Neves, Tridents APIs and
so forth really were just as
important. The M67 sounds just
like youd hope an all discrete
vintage mic preamp would sound
fat, chewy and larger than life.
Even the noise levels are pretty low,
and any slight hiss when youre
pushing the high gain channel just
adds to the retro vibe. Best of all, it
sounds incredible on acoustic and
electric guitars!
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WORKSHOP Mic upgrade
MIC UPGRADE
MOD YOUR MIC
Can a 150 condenser mic be upgraded to a

level equivalent to a 1000 mic? We think so.
HUW PRICE shows you how to build the valve mic
that your acoustic and electric guitars deserve
T
1 After all the upgrades
were going through, we
thought it should look the part
as well. The base and grille
were nickel-plated, and the
body and power supply got a
vintage-style hammered paint
2a All the components are
clearly labelled on both circuit
boards. It does make things
straightforward, but be gentle
when removing components,
including the valve
he reason many Chinese

condenser and ribbon mics
look and sound so similar
is badge manufacturing,
which has always been a
feature of the industry. Neumann,
Schoeps and AKG all made mics
for Telefunken, Phillips and many
others. Even the 59 Les Paul of
vintage microphones, the ELA
M251, was badge-manufactured for
Telefunken by AKG. .
For this workshop (see pic 1 for
what the finished articles look like
and pics 2a and 2b for what the mic
looked liked pre-modding) were
using a nine-pattern valve mic
called the HST-11a, bought new on
eBay for 149. Its made by Alctron
Electronics in China (www.alctron-
2a
2b Heres how our

microphone looked on the
outside before the mods. Much
the same unit is available
under various manufacturer
names, including Carvin, Apex,
Nady and Harper Diabate
audio.com) but sold under many

brands: Carvin CTM100, Apex 460,
Nady TCM-1150, Harper Diabate
HDV-1, Peluso P12 and Telefunken
USA RFT M16. The Peluso and
Telefunken have upgraded capsules,
valves, transformers and circuitry,
but most of the others are stock,
with different colours and logos.
Prices: 150 to more than 1200.
The Alctron HST-11a is a decent
mic, probably the most popular for
DIY work. Starting with the easiest
and cheapest, well work through
the common modifications,
assessing their impact.
Mod 1: Valve Swap

The HST-11a resembles the
legendary AKG C12. The C12s
2b
preamp/impedance dropping
circuit was designed around a
12AY7 valve, and the HST-11a was
specified with a similar 12AT7
(ECC81). However, 12AX7 tubes
are cheaper than 12AY7 and 12AT7
tubes; this is why Alctron installs
12AX7s, which have a gain of
100mu (a 12AY7 is around 44mu,
a 12AT7 around 60mu). This extra
gain can overload the transformer
when used on loud sources like
electric guitars, so theres a lack of
clean headroom. Cheap Chinese
12AX7 microphones can also be
noisy, and the two things you least
want from a recording mic are
noise and distortion.
The GE 12AY7/6072 as used in
the original AKG C12s are now very
Mic upgrade WORKSHOP
3 We tried a whole selection

of valves, including a Mullard
and an expensive NOS General
Electric. We found that, taking
everything into account, the
12 Electro-Harmonix 6072A
won the contest
4 Most mics pop shields

have three layers of mesh.
You can improve the response
but increase likelihood of
interference by carefully
breaking the solder joints and
remove the inner layers
5 In order to get our new,

bigger C8 capacitor in see pic
6 we first needed to relocate
R8 back to the rear of the
circuit board
6 Its a very tight fit, but

we found we could fit our new
Ansar Supersound capacitor in
lengthways. This made a huge
difference to our budget mic
expensive. Fortunately the ElectroHarmonix 3 version is wellregarded, so we got one for 12. We
also tried an E-H 12AT7/ECC81 and
a GE 5751, which is like a low-gain
ECC83 with an amplification factor
around 70mu.
The valve is held in place by
a plastic spacer with a sprung
receptacle for the pointy bit at the
end of the bottle. Push the plastic
base against the valve, prise up one
edge, slide it sideways to clear the
transformer housing. Pull out the
valve, and reverse the procedure to
fit the new one.
Next, we tested the results on
acoustic and voice, taking care
to maintain mic placement and
allowing each valve to warm up for
10 mins. The stock 12AX7B was
muffled, indistinct and grainy, with
a honky midrange. The ECC81
was clean and bright, but bland.
The 5751 was slightly softer at the
top and smooth in the midrange
better, but a little lean in the low
mids and bass. The winner: the
Electro-Harmonix 12AY7/6027A
(see pic 3) for its bass depth, rich
mids and sparkly highs.
Mod 2: Capsule Grille

A capsule housing has three layers
of wire mesh two thick mesh
layers sandwiching a much finer
layer. Most modders agree that
this is one or two layers too many.
The inner layers can be removed,
with care, because theyre only
tack-soldered in place. Two small
screws attach the grille housing to

the main body of the mic. We freed
the housing, gently lifted it clear
of the capsule, and pushed a thin
flat-head screwdriver between the
inner and middle grille layers to
prise the innermost layer upwards.
A bit of persuasion will break the
solder, and you can pull the mesh
out from under the rim using a
pair of needle-nose pliers. Once it
was removed we tack-soldered the
fine mesh back into position with
a powerful iron and filed any sharp
bits of metal smooth.
This mod produced a
noticeable improvement in detail
and openness, clearing up the
midrange. When we removed the
fine mesh things got even better
but removing layers might make
the mic susceptible to interference
and wind blasts, so a pop shield will
be essential for vocals 4 .
Mod 3: Capacitor Change

There are only two capacitors in the
direct signal path: C4 and C8. C4
is rated 1000pF and connects the
capsule backplate. In some HST-11a
variants this will be ceramic, and
its worth changing to polystyrene
or polyester. In our mic the C4
hidden on the rear of the front
circuit board was polyester, so we
left it alone.
The C8 is of greater concern.
Its a 1mF electrolytic, and most
engineers agree that electrolytics
arent great for audio. The space
inside the HST-11a is limited, so
Alctron use small, high-capacitance

electrolytics. A value of 1mF or
above is needed to pass all the bass
frequencies. The Ansar Supersound
capacitor we used had to be
installed lengthways, which meant
moving R8 (270Kohms) to the rear
of the circuit board 5 6 .
Installing the Ansar made a big
difference, almost eliminating the
honky midrange and producing
a smoother, more balanced and
natural tone. There was a little less
low-end weight, but the Ansar was
nevertheless a huge upgrade.
Next, the 100mF capacitor
labelled C6. Given the value, we
had to stick with an electrolytic, so
we installed a legendary Black Gate
branded cap. This made an even
bigger difference than changing C8,
restoring and even improving the
bass depth and fattening up the low
mids. By this point the microphone
was starting to sound pretty good
but it was just about to get a whole
lot better.
Mod 4: Capsule Swap

Capsules are to mics what pickups
are to guitars. Were all accustomed
to the benefits of upgrading
pickups, and mic capsules which
are easy to buy are no different.
Now, most Chinese capsules are
based on the 1950s Neumanndesigned K67, originally used in
the U67 and still living on in the
U87. This was engineered with
a treble boost to be matched
with a treble-reducing preamp
>
PARTS LIST
Mic:
150 from eBay
Ansar Supersound 1mF
capacitor: 2.50 from
CricklewoodElectronics
Black Gate 100mF capacitor:
1.71 from HiFi Collective
6072a/12AY7 Valve:
12 from Watford Valves
Peluso CEK-12 capsule: 155,
KMR Audio
WORKSHOP
INTERVIEW Mic
Vinnie
upgrade
Moore & Paul Raymond | UFO
7 A selection of Peluso
capsules, all of which were an
improvement on the original
8 Heres our favourite
choice of capsule, the CEK12, installed and ready for
assembly
circuit (this treble pre-emphasis/deemphasis arrangement is similar in

principle to the RIAA curve used for
vinyl records and the EQ curves used
for analogue tape machines). Most
Chinese condenser mics combine
these trebly-sounding capsules with
flat-frequency response circuitry,
which is why they often sound too
bright and harsh. Alctron capsules
usually have a frequency spike at
around 2.7KHz, 7KHz and a rise
in response between 8KHz and
16KHz. Whats more, quality control
isnt exactly rigorous. Neumanns
earlier M7 and K47 capsules didnt
have the treble pre-emphasis,
making them a better match for the
flat-response Chinese preamps.
Peluso capsules 7 (www.
pelusomicrophonelab.com) are
great value for money. Peluso buys
its metal parts from China but the
gold-sputtered diaphragms come
from Germany and all the crucial
diaphragm tensioning and assembly
work is done at their own facility.
Pelusos UK distributor KMR Audio
provided three capsules for us (see
pics 7 and 8): an edge-terminated
CEK-12 based on the original AKG
CK12 capsule, a CEK-47 based on
the old PVC-style Neumann M7
capsule, and a P-K47 based on the
Mylar-diaphragm Neumann used in
the later FET U47s.
Three wires from inside the
capsule housing are soldered to the
circuit board. Note the positions,
de-solder the wires and remove the
capsule housing. Release the two
screws holding the capsule base
plate to the body of the microphone
and slide the assembly clear. Two
screws fix the capsule riser clip to
the base plate. Remove the stock
capsule assembly and reverse the
procedure to install the new one.
Never touch the fragile diaphragm,
and always ensure the housing is
protecting the capsule when youre

soldering; hot solder and resin can
destroy it.
The deficiencies of our stock
capsule were clear: a noticeable
high frequency lift and a whooshy,
smeary quality in the presence
region. The CEK-47 had a much
smoother and more filled out
midrange, with a touch more bass.
The highs possessed a bit more
tinsel than wed expect from a
vintage Neumann, but it was a step
forward in quality. The P-47 had the
rolled-off highs wed expect from a
vintage Neumann along with solid
lows and an ultra-warm, richly
textured midrange. The CEK-12
8 combined the best of both with
tight bass, sparkly detailed highs
and a full but less exaggerated
midrange. All three were a big step
up in quality and actually a very
cost-effective way to put a HST-11a
into a higher league.
Mod 5: Cathode Follower

The HST-11a circuit differs from the
C12/M251 circuit its loosely based
on because both sides of the double
triode valve are used, not just one
side; the second half becomes a
cathode follower to lower the output
impedance of the circuit. The
designers probably decided on this
because it places fewer demands
on the output transformer, allowing
the use of cheaper items. However,
most reports state that the HST-11a
has an industry standard 10:1 ratio
transformer, which rather negates
the purpose of the cathode follower.
Many modders remove the
cathode follower altogether and take
the audio output to the transformer
from Pin 1 of the valve via C8.
Its fiddly but really quite simple;
just remove R8 along with the
wires connecting Pins 6, 7 and 8
to the circuit board. Solder a link
wire to join Pins 6, 7 and 8 to

Pin 9 (ground) then move the C8
connection from where it previously
joined R8 to Pin 1 of the valve.
This mod produces mixed
results. The output level dropped
and some of the presence was
lost, but the midrange became
softer and smoother. Removing
circuitry is always an attractive
option, but improvements were
marginal with the stock transformer
(which many consider to be pretty
decent, anyway). Cathode follower
removal would make most sense if
you simultaneously upgraded the
output transformer with a Cinemag
CM-2480 or a Peluso.
Conclusion
Much of the modding info on
the internet is ill-informed,
contradictory and/or dangerous. We
wanted to sift through everything
and present you with the mods we
consider worthwhile. Be realistic,
however, and bear in mind this is
similar to fitting posh pickups, a
steel trem block and quality pots
to a Mexican Strat; whilst it may
improve the quality of the guitar
from pretty good to very good, it
will still sound like a Strat.
We compared our modded
HST-11a to a vintage Neumann
CMV563, a Telefunken USA ELA
M250F and modern valve mics like
the SE Z5600a II (499), M Audio
Sputnik (379) and the Oktava
MKL5000. Our HST-11a is as good
as the 500-600 mics, maybe
better. It has a pure, impressively
detailed sound of its own that falls
between the Neumann and the
Telefunken. It cant match the
Telefunkens high frequency sheen
and its not as deep and velvetysounding as the Neumann, but for
an outlay of around 325, it runs
them surprisingly close.
ON SALE
NOW!
Available in WH Smith and all good newsagents*
or online at www.vintagerockmag.com
*Also available at Barnes & Noble USA and import stockists worldwide
FROM THE MAKERS OF GUITAR & BASS MAGAZINE
VR08 ad 210x297.indd 28
24/07/2015 14:21
PROJECT Headphone amp
HEADPHONE AMP PROJECT
POCKET ROCKET
Smart phone apps are great but sometimes nothing but analogue
tone will do. This little headphone amp offers an old-school
alternative which you can build yourself. DAVE PETERSEN is your guide
A
1 Stripboard: cut to size and
with a key for you to follow
useful feature of many

modern small practice amps
is the headphone socket
that allows you to play at a
self-satisfying level without
alarming the civilian population.
Most of us have smart phones
these days and many have splashed
out on apps and their various

attachments that offer a staggering
array of guitar tones on the go,
but sometimes theres just no
substitute for pure analogue tone.
So in this article were going to
tell you how to build an analogue
gadget that will boost a guitar or
medium-impedance microphone
to a more-than-healthy level in your
cans. It fits in your pocket, accepts
a standard guitar jack cable and
feeds standard headphones from
its 3.5mm stereo phone socket.
Powered by two low-cost AAs,
standard or rechargeable, itll play
Headphone amp PROJECT
POCKET ROCKET DRILLING DIAGRAM
Pocket Rocket Drilling Diagram
22mm
12mm
18mm
12mm
20mm
6.5mm
30mm
PARTS, LINKS
& BREAKS MATRIX
6.5mm
18mm
7mm
9mm
14mm
60mm
for at leasst 100 hours or more.

The Pocket Rocket isnt a kit
theres no special printed circuit
board, so were going to tell you
how to build it with parts you can
buy yourself for around 28. The
parts list is based on Maplin parts
and components.
Theres not
much space
in the box, so
finding a small
enough volume
control isnt
straightforward,
either to source or to fit. Instead
weve used a mini switch one way
for ordinary guitar level, the other
for microphones or loud guitar
levels (take care of those eardrums,
people!). The tone stays clear
with low guitar volume settings,
so this is a practical solution
to the problem of not having a

conventional volume control.
Building the pocket rocket

Begin by using the drilling diagram
(above) to place the drilling centres
in one end of the plastic box. Use a
3.5mm bit to pilot out the holes, and
provide two boards in case of

unrecoverable errors the first time!
Refer to the picture with the strip
and hole numbering at the bottom
of page 126 1 and score both
ends of strip 10, where you want
it to break. Carefully bend along
the strip until a crack appears at
one end. Gently
increased pressure
should cause the
crack to follow the
strip in a straight
line to the other
scored end.
All being well, your final board
size should be nine full strips
across and 31 holes long. The
39-hole board is broken across the
32nd row to get the right length.
The rough edges can be filed
smooth to reduce the width for
a comfortable fit. Using a pair of >
This gadget will boost a guitar or mic

to a healthy level in your cans and itll
play for 100 hours or more
drill as accurately as possible to the
template. Widen out the jack hole
to 6.5mm and then to 12mm with a
tapered reamer or a round file. The
switch and headphone jack are both
drilled out to 6.5mm final diameter.
Now, lets prepare the stripboard.
Weve specified a piece that can
Heres our parts matrix.

The code denotes the strip
by letter and the hole by
number. Note that the letter
I is omitted. Parts sequence
goes from left to right
referred to matrix
picture view
1. JM23A (3.5mm jack skt): E3
/ G1 / J3
2. M10R (10 ohm resistor):
B5 G5
3. DT98G (100 nF poly cap):
F7 H7
4. VH41U (220uF cap): D8
(+) E8 (-)
5. VH41U (220uF cap): F9(+)
J9(-)
6. M10R (10 ohm resistor):
G11 H11
7. DT98G (100 nF poly cap):
B12 D12
8. VH41U (220uF cap): E14
(+) G14 (-)
9. NJ38R (driver i.c.): pin
1 D17,
pin 4 G17, pin 5 G20, pin
8 D20
10. M100K (100Kohm
resistor): E23 H23
11. DT92A (1nF poly cap):
E24 G24
12. VH41U (220 uF cap): H25
(-) J25 (+) 13. M1K (1Kohm
resistor): C26 J26
14. M10K (10 Kohm resistor):
C27 G27
Off-board components
15. BW79L (6.3mm jack skt):
Tip terminal wire to E25.
Tip ground/sleeve terminal
common wire to H21
16. FH100A (mini toggle):
centre terminal wire to C28.
End terminal wire to G28
17. NE19V (battery clip): red
wire to A12, black wire to
BW79L ring terminal
Links matrix: A11 E11 G16
H16
D21 G21 E22
F22
Breaks matrix: C20 / D18
D26 / E9 E18 E26 / F18
F26 / G18 / H15 / J11
2 All the soldering done.

Make sure to avoid jumping
any tracks with stray solder
PROJECT Headphone amp
Inside the box doesnt

look too complicated does it!
3
sharp-nosed pliers or side cutters,

nibble out one corner of the board
to clear the corner post of the case
(according to the matrix, holes 1 to 4
in strips A to C should be removed).
Before attempting this, wed advise
you to score the corner with a
straight edge and a hobby knife to
prevent accidentally overshooting
with the nibbling tool.
Drill a 3.5mm hole in the board,
using hole E 29 as the centre. Use
the same drill as a spot-face cutter
to create breaks in the tracks at the
points listed in the Breaks Matrix
WHAT YOU NEED

Part numbers and prices are taken from the 2015 Maplin website
QTY
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
4
2
1
2
1
1
1
PART NO
N70BQ
JP47B
JM23A
BW79L
FH00A
NJ38R
NE19V
YR60Q
VH41U
DT98G
DT92A
M10R
M1K
M10K
M100K
DESCRIPTION
Project box (Hammond 1591B)
Stripboard 2939
3.5mm stereo jack skt.
6.3mm 3-pole jack skt
SPDT mini-toggle switch
TDA2822M driver i.c.
Battery clip
2 x AA battery box w/PP3 clip terminal
220uF 16v electrolytic caps
100nF poly caps
1nF poly cap
10 ohm resistor
1Kohm resistor
10Kohm resistor
100Kohm resistor
TOTAL
PRICE
5.29
3.49
1.59
1.99
2.79
2.91*
1.49
1.59
2.36
0.98
0.59
0.78
0.39
0.39
0.39
27.99
shown in the box below. Now fit

the resistors across the board,
passing the wires through the holes
specified in the Parts Matrix (note
that one of the resistors stands
up on end), trim the wires under
the board, and use the off-cuts to
make the links. Fit the links across
the board as specified in the Links
Matrix (again shown in the box
below), bend them back along the
strips and trim them to about 2mm,
then solder them to the strips. Take
care not to solder-bridge any strips:
likewise with the resistors. Fit the
IC, whose pins should straddle the
row of four broken strips D G,
holes 17 20; likewise the minijack, whose terminals should
appear through E3, G1, and J3. Fit
the capacitors and the wiring from
the jack, switch and battery clip,
as per the Parts Matrix. Note that
battery-clip negative (black) goes
direct to the middle ring terminal
of the three-pole input jack, and
that the right-handmost 220uF
capacitor is oriented inversely to the
three others.
Finally, push the nose of the
mini-jack through the 6.5mm hole
nearest the roof of the box, and
mark the case through the hole you
made in the board. Drill through,
and pass a short M3/6BA screw
through the case and the board,
using a nut to fix the board down

to the case. You may like to include
a small washer or spacer under
the board to avoid bending stress
with the nut tightened. Now fit the
6.3mm jack socket, with one spacer
inside the case, and the switch,
oriented with its throw horizontal.
Fit two AA cells to the battery
carrier and connect the clip. The
carrier should fit snugly enough to
avoid any need for further fixing
with the lid in place. Connect your
favourite phones and guitar, and
you should get good clear sound
at a reasonable level on one switch
setting and much louder on the
other setting.
We had so much fun with this
little box that were working on a
more sophisticated version. This
will have mixable mic and guitar
channels and were looking at a bit
of stereo echo too.
*Please note: This article was first
published some years ago, however,
all parts are still currently available
from Maplins, with the same part
numbers, with the exception of the
TDA2822M amp driver (the rather
vital black box in the centre of the
board) which it no longer stocks.
Happily these components can still
be bought on ebay or from sites like
www.lightinthebox.com.
!
NEW
NET
POWERED BY GUITAR & BASS MAGAZINE
The best online

resource for
guitarists and
bass players
WWW.GUITAR-BASS.NET
GB2611.Web ad.indd 116
22/07/2015 16:53
C O DA
BRIAN MAYS
RED SPECIAL
Photo: Mike Prior
In 1964 Brian May and his electricalengineer father built a guitar. Driven,
most likely, by the cost of top-flight
instruments of the day and the thrill of
simply rising to the challenge, the result
was to have a significant impact on the
world of rock. The Red Special provided
Mays signature tone for Queens
recordings and is in service to this day.
It could well be the ultimate DIY guitar
and its also the inspiration for our
electric guitar building project in this
very magazine. The Red Special
symbolises just what can be achieved
with a few tools, a little knowledge and
a guitar inclined imagination. We
sincerely hope this magazine will help
put you on the road to similar feats.
The Guitar
DIY2015
Bible

Guitar and Bass Classics - The Guitar DIY Bible 2015-P2P

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What are some of the guitar modification projects covered in the magazine?

What are some of the guitar modification projects covered in the magazine?

What details are provided about the production of the magazine?

What details are provided about the production of the magazine?

Classics

THE GUITAR DIY BIBLE 2015

The Guitar DIY

25 killer Strat & Les Paul mods

2015 Fender American Standard Ad Group RGT UK 210x297mm [3mbld].indd 1

HANDMADE IN THE U.S.A.

Can you fix it?

SUBSCRIPTIONS & BACK ISSUES

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Turn to page 100 to take advantage

guitar-bass.net GUITAR DIY BIBLE 2015 3

Damage Control ........................................................... 16

Learn electronics ........................................................ 18

Tools Of The Trade..................................................... 22

Solder Your Soul .......................................................... 24

25 GREAT WAYS TO MAKE YOUR

Pledge allegiance to the four rules of soldering

25 Ways To Upgrade Your Les Paul ............... 28

The best Strat modifications ............................ 36

34 Strat Upgrades FEATURES

Keep Your Fretboard Clean ............................... 44

Build A Lap Steel .........................................................50

Actions Stations ..........................................................54

Necks In Line .................................................................. 58

Strat Tremolo Setup Tips ..................................... 61

Headstock Break Repair ....................................... 72

Rolling Your Own Pickups ................................... 78

Boost Your Spruce .....................................................86

Acoustic neck reset.................................................. 94

Acoustic Rescue Plan .............................................. 97

Uke Box Jury.................................................................102

Classical Renovation ............................................ 106

Amp Check Workshop ........................................... 110

Cone Improvements ............................................... 114

Mic Preamp Project ................................................ 118

Mod Your Mic ............................................................... 122

Headphone Amp ........................................................126

PROJECT GUITAR BUILDING

6 GUITAR DIY BIBLE 2015 guitar-bass.net

GUITAR BUILDING PR0JECT

Can you travel the same guitar-building road as Brian May

rian May and his father

to build it in under a month from

workshop, we decided, would be

PROJECT Guitar building

1 The basis for our build

Fitting the maple sections

8 Marking out the cavities

8 GUITAR DIY BIBLE guitar-bass.net

Some other tough decisions were

very scarce so I researched it as

Guitar building PROJECT

Beginning The Body

plywood gave us a total thickness of