Frequently Asked Perennial Questions: Selection
Frequently Asked Perennial Questions: Selection
Frequently Asked Perennial Questions: Selection
Selection
What are good perennial flowers to plant in Nebraska?
A good perennial is adapted to the growing conditions of the site and fulfills the aesthetic purpose or
function needed in the garden such as color, time of bloom, size, and growth habit. There are many
perennial flowers to grow in Nebraska. Refer to the following publications for perennial lists.
Perennials for Water Wise Landscapes: http://ianrpubs.unl.edu/horticulture/g1214.htm
Wildflowers for the Home Landscape: http://ianrpubs.unl.edu/horticulture/g1074.htm
Perennials: http://ianrpubs.unl.edu/horticulture/g1015.htm
Watering:
How much and how often should perennial flowers be watered?
Amount and frequency of irrigation will depend on soil type, flower species, and climate. Overwatering is
just as harmful as underwatering. Heres a checklist of best management irrigation practices:
Newly planted perennials, even drought tolerant ones, must have adequate soil moisture until
their roots are established.
Monitor soil moisture and rainfall. Do not irrigate unless its needed. Inserting a screwdriver or
piece of rebar into your soil will help determine how deep you have moistened the soil. It will
slide in fairly easily to the moistened depth and stop when it hits dry soil.
Water deeply and infrequently. Moisten the soil 8 inches deep. Allow the soil to dry moderately
before irrigating again. Dont overwater drought tolerant plants.
Water slowly and gently to reduce soil compaction and allow water to soak in rather than run-off.
Select an efficient irrigation method such as a soaker hose or drip irrigation.
Avoid overhead irrigation. This promotes foliar diseases, lowers blossom quality, and increases
evaporative water loss.
Group plants based on their water needs. Do not combine high water using perennials with low
water users. One plant will be overwatered or one will be underwatered.
Use a coarse mulch to help conserve soil moisture and reduce weed competition for moisture.
Dont irrigate perennial beds with the lawn irrigation system. This will lead to overwatering.
Mulching:
What is a good mulch to use during summer for perennial flower gardens?
A coarse textured organic mulch, such as shredded bark or wood. Coarse mulches do not become
compacted and they allow oxygen to enter soil. Soil oxygen is critical for healthy root growth. Fine
textured mulches, such as dried grass clippings, tend to mat down and can repel moisture and reduce soil
oxygen levels. Organic mulch is better than inorganic mulch as these decompose and add organic matter
to soil over time. Best management practices for mulch are:
Use a coarse textured organic mulch
The mulch layer should be no deeper than two to three inches
Keep mulch 6 to 12 inches away from plant stems
Replenish organic mulch as it decomposes
Fertilizing:
How often should perennials be fertilized and whats the best type of fertilizer?
With proper soil preparation before planting, many perennials require little additional fertilization.
Application of a starter fertilizer, one high in phosphorous, prior to planting may aid in more rapid root
establishment. For established plants, an application of a balanced, slow release nitrogen fertilizer in May,
and one month later if needed, can be beneficial. Fertilizers high in nitrogen should not be used as
nitrogen promotes excess foliage at the expense of flowers and roots, causes floppy stems, and can
increase disease susceptibility. Perennials grown in wood mulched beds may require more nitrogen as soil
nitrogen is used to decompose the mulch and may not be as available for plants to use. Fertilizer best
management practices are:
Base type of fertilizer used and amount applied on a soil test
Use slow release nitrogen sources
Avoid contact with leaves when using granular forms
Water in fertilizer
Apply fertilizer when the soil is moist.
Stop fertilizer after August 1
Do not leave granular fertilizers on paved surfaces as these will be washed into water resources
Staking:
How can you prevent plants from flopping over?
Flopping, or lodging, detracts from a plants appearance. Also, bent stems do not function as well and
injury to stems caused by lodging are openings for disease infection. To reduce lodging, avoid high
nitrogen or fast release nitrogen sources when fertilizing. Avoid overwatering. Stake tall plants. Put
staking materials in place in early spring just before or as new growth begins. If tying stems to stakes, do
so loosely with double loops to avoid wind whipping causing ties to damage stems.
Pinching/Deadheading:
What is the difference between pinching and deadheading flowers?
Pinching is done early in the season and removes the stem tips to promote bushier, more compact plants
and increase the number of blooms. Pinching is most beneficial on late summer blooming perennials like
asters and Chrysanthemum. Stop pinching plants by late June to allow flower buds to develop and bloom
before frost.
Deadheading is the removal of spent blossoms to avoid seed production. Deadheading prevents plants
from using energy for seed production, can lengthen the bloom season, and improves the plants
appearance. Remove spent blossoms by cutting their stems back to a healthy leaf or stem.
Dividing Perennials:
When do you divide perennials?
Most perennials require division every 3 to 5 years or they become overcrowded, causing a decrease in
blooming and plant centers to die. Divide perennials when they are dormant. As a rule of thumb, divide
spring blooming perennials in fall and late summer/fall blooming perennials in spring. Iris are best
divided in August.
Are there any perennials you should not divide?
It is often recommended not to divide butterfly milkweed, Euphorbias, oriental poppies, babys breath,
gas plant, blue false indigo, and columbines.
Winter Protection:
Which perennials need to be protected during winter?
Nonhardy perennials or recently planted perennials should be protected. In northern Nebraska, provide
protection for plants hardy to cold hardiness zones 5 or higher. In southern Nebraska, protect plants hardy
to cold hardiness zones 6 or higher. Winter protection protects plants from soils alternately freezing and
thawing which damages roots, and from temperature extremes.
How and when do you add winter protection?
Use an 8 to 12 inch layer of a coarse textured mulch that will not pack down over winter, such as straw or
evergreen branches. Do not put the mulch in place until the soil has frozen, sometime in November, or
crown rots and delayed dormancy can occur. Remove winter mulch in spring just before or as soon as
new growth begins.