BELLAWOOD Naildown Installation
BELLAWOOD Naildown Installation
CLEAN - Scrape, broom clean, and smooth. Free of wax, paint, oil, sealers,
adhesives, curing agents and other debris.
LEVEL/FLAT - Within 3/16" in 10or 1/8" in 6. Sand high areas or joints. Build-up
low spots with layers of 15# builders felt, old vinyl, plywood or shims
(not cement leveling compounds).
NOTE: Red rosin paper or 15# builders felt (tar paper) acts as a moisture
retarder and may be used to reduce movement caused by changes in subfloor
moisture, thereby reducing cupping and warping. (This is especially helpful over
crawl spaces and basements) In addition, the use of these materials can give the
flooring a more solid feeling, reduce sound transfer, prevent noise caused by minor
irregularities and debris, and make it easier to slide the wood together across the
surface of the subfloor. Kraft paper may also be used to make installation easier.
STRUCTURALLY SOUND - Nail or screw any loose areas that squeak. Replace any
water-damaged, swollen or delaminated sub flooring or underlayments. Avoid
subfloors with excessive vertical movement.
DRY - Check moisture content of the subfloor with the appropriate moisture meter,
verify under 12%
Concrete Slabs
Solid flooring can be installed over concrete once the appropriate nailing surface has been
installed. The concrete must be of high compressive strength. All concrete should be tested
for moisture content (Figure #5). Visual checks are not reliable.
NOTE: Test several areas, especially near exterior walls and walls containing plumbing.
A "DRY" SLAB, AS DEFINED BY THESE TESTS CAN BE WET AT OTHER TIMES OF THE YEAR.
THESE TESTS DO NOT GUARANTEE A DRY SLAB. ALL CONCRETE SLABS SHOULD HAVE A
MINIMUM OF 6 MIL POLY FILM MOISTURE BARRIER BETWEEN THE GROUND AND THE
CONCRETE.
Subfloor as a nailing base, installed over Concrete
From N.O.F.M.A.
1)
Install suitable moisture retardant followed by a plywood subfloor with a minimum
thickness of 3/4". Allow 1/2" expansion space around all vertical objects and 1/8" between
all flooring panels. The panel must be properly attached to the subfloor using a minimum
of one fastener per square foot and more if necessary. Use pneumatic or powder actuated
fasteners, add silicone sealant over the fasteners. Do not hand nail the subfloor with
concrete nails. Install 15lb roofing felt as a moisture retardant barrier with joints lapped 6"
and begin installation of flooring using 1 to 1 1/2" fasteners.
Floating:
Install a 6-8 mm sheet plastic moisture retardant overlap seams 4 and duct tape, followed
by a minimum of 5/8plywood subfloor. Allow 1/2" expansion space around all vertical
objects and 1/8" between all flooring panels. Install a second layer of 5/8" plywood
diagonal to the previous panels, offsetting the joints 2. Screw together with screw that will
not penetrate the first layer of subfloor. Install a moisture retardant felt barrier with joints
lapped 6" and begin installation of flooring.
Beginning rows may be blind-nailed where clearance allows using a pneumatic finish nailer
with 15 gauge, 1 1/2" (minimum) nails in lieu of above.
STEP 2 & 3: CENTER TO WALL INSTALLATION
Dry lay or rack materials to cover approximately 2/3 of the room. Begin dry laying
(racking) approximately 6" from the edge of the previously installed rows. Avoid
pulling boards too tightly together on the sides, as they must move freely when
fastening begins.
Mark the final board in each row and cut to length allowing for proper expansion
(the width of the boards you are using).
Visually inspect flooring, cull out or setting aside boards that need to have
natural character flaws, over board or milling flaws cut out.
Use these boards for starting and finishing row after objectionable characteristics
have been removed.
Fasten a test or sacrificial board to the floor. Check for surface dimpling damage,
air pressure setting, tongue damage, etc. before proceeding. Make all adjustments
and corrections before installation begins. Once proper adjustments have been
made, remove and destroy the board.
Begin installation with several rows at a time, fastening each board with at least
two fasteners, 8-10" apart and 1-1 1/2" from the ends (to avoid splitting). Tighten
boards as necessary to reduce gaps before fastening.
End-joints of adjacent rows should be staggered 6' when possible to ensure a more
favorable overall appearance.
The last 1-2 rows will need to be face-nailed where clearance does not permit blind
nailing with stapler or brad nailer. Pre-drill and face-nail on the tongue side
following the nailing pattern used for the first row.
Rip final row to fit and face-nail. If the final row is less than 1" in width, it should
first be glued to the previous UNINSTALLED row and the two joined units should be
face nailed as one.
5/15/07