HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT

While the NSR125 is mostly of Japanese manufacture, with the engine parts and
other key elements of the running of the motorbike produced in Japan, It was
then assembled in Italy and supplied to its mainly European market.
There were 2 models of the bike; the earlier model (NS125R) with a 'square'
headlight, produced between 1988-1994 and the later 'Foxeye' R1 model (named
due to its front lights resembling that of a fox) produced between 1994-2001.
Whilst drastic changes were made to the aesthetics of the motorbike very little
was changed on the mechanical or engineering side.
Eventually however, new stricter regulations in the EU began phasing out the 2
stroke motorcycles and the NSR125 ceased production in 2001.
Although it is a common mistake to believe the NSR continued production until
2003. This is not the case as they ceased production in 2001 but had leftover
stock until 2003/4.
JC22 FOXEYE MODEL
REGIONAL DIFFERENCES
There is a large problem with Derestricting certain models of the NSR125 and this
is mainly dependent on where the bike was manufactured for. To tell the
difference you must check your frame number.
UK
Frame number: ZDCJC22C******
Restrictions: Exhaust collar, carb jets, inlet restriction plate
Required alterations: Upjet, exhaust mod, inlet plate removal
Optional alterations: Carbon reeds, change sprockets
Italy
Frame number: ZDCJC22A******
This is a full power bike and has no restrictions.
Optional alterations: Carbon reeds, change sprockets
France
Frame number: ZDCJC22B****** - can look like an 8
Restrictions: Exhaust, Carburetter, CDI unit, RC-Control unit
Required alterations: Upjet, exhaust mod, inlet plate removal, CDI and PV
controller
Optional alterations: Carbon reeds, change sprockets
Switzerland
Frame number: ZDCJC22E******
Restrictions: so many restrictions that it is nearly impossible to derestrict and
cannot even rev past 7500rpm.

Required alterations: UK or Italian engine, exhaust, loom, CDI and PV controller

INTRODUCTION
Why would you want to derestrict your NSR? The short answer is the bike goes
faster and runs much sweeter when you do. A 2 stroke engine works on the
simple basis of fuel is pulled into the combustion chamber by exhaust gases
escaping; it doesn't get much more complex than that. To meet learner laws the
power of a 2 stroke engine needs to be reduced, the easiest way to do that is to
limit the fuel going in and exhaust gases going out, the less fuel going in means
each combustion is weaker, with exhaust gases being restricted on their way out
less fuel can go into the chamber and so less power on your combustion stroke. If
you'd like to know more about how a 2 stroke engine works, I suggest you look
here for more info.
If you've got a couple of hours and the right tools you can derestrict your own
bike, but first you should consider this, British law states that if you are on L
plates you are not allowed a motorcycle of more than 14.6bhp, if you derestrict
your bike you will be over this so technically you will be riding without a license
and without insurance. If you are OK with this then continue, if you don't feel
comfortable I suggest waiting until you have passed your test or your 2 year
restriction is up.
Since you cannot derestrict a Swiss bike, and Italian bikes are already full power,
we will concentrate on the UK and French models which have some slight
differences with the exhaust restriction.
TOOLS
You will need a set of alan keys, pliers, screw drivers, spanners and some ratchets
will help too. You will also need a drill and some drill bits. I found a dremel is also
of use later on.
PARTS YOU NEED TO BUY
Jets - Required
You will also need to have your new jets before you start the work. Intake jets sit
in your carburettor and dictate how much fuel and air is mixed together, this
needs to be done otherwise you run this risk of having your engine run to
rich/lean which can damage your piston and seize the engine. Available from
http://www.racecar.co.uk/dellorto/
The carburettor in the NSR is a 28PHBH/FD and the jets you need are main 138 ,
slow (idle) 42 , power 65.
They cost about ?13.
Edited to add - new link for the jet kit from Dell'Orto UK is
http://www.dellorto....artsectionID=24 and they cost just over 15 delivered. Very
quick delivery too. - Jedi
Mesh - Optional.

To modify the airbox you will need some mesh, speaker mesh works well. If you
don't have any the other option is to just drill holes in your existing airbox.
Available from your Dads Bang & Oufson stereo.
This will cost you an ass kicking.
Race exhaust - Optional - Recommended.
A good idea if you don't want to hack at your existing one.
Arrow, Ginelli, JollyMoto and a few other makes available. These are ligcome
derestricted as standard, and will also give you more power than a hacked
original exhaust.
They cost between ?200 and ?300.
French bikes only:
CDI unit CI626, RC valves control unit TV-78 - Required.
These electrics restrict several parts of your bike, such as limiting the revs.
You can get these second hand from eBay or a bike breakers.
An average second hand price for the two is 100.
French bikes only:
Barrel piston kit - Optional - Not recommended.
Only needed if your pressure is low, and you still have poor performance after
doing everything else.
Available from www.davidsilversspares.co.uk
Costs about ?250 I think?
New exhaust gasket - Recommended.
A good idea to replace your old one while you are doing the derestriction.
Available from www.davidsilversspares.co.uk
Costs peanuts.
Carbon reeds - optional - Recommended.
Will give you a little extra performance boost.
Available from www.blue-oil-france.com
You need 'Clapets Carbone honda 125 NSR 90>03'
Costs about ?30 I think.
Sprockets - optional - Recommended.
Changing the sprockets to specific configurations will give you either faster
acceleration (but dropping the top speed slightly), Higher top speed (but slightly
slower acceleration), or somewhere in between for a good trade off.
NEED INFO ON SIZES AND OUTCOME
Available from??
Cost about ?80 I think with a new chain.
MECHANICS
The Exhaust - UK AND FRANCE

*UK AND FRENCH OPTION 1*

I would advise you to purchase a full power exhaust instead of hacking at your
existing one as detailed below. Simply take off you old exhaust and put the new
one on.
*UK AND FRANCE OPTION 2*
First up, remove the exhaust. To do this you need to take the side fairings off, just
loosen the screws either side (take care to make sure you have loosened them
all, every one, check check and double check if you haven't done this before).
Next remove the screws that hold the centre of the two fairings together, you find
these behind the front wheel, one is facing you and one is beneath the fairing.
Next remove every screw you have loosened, starting with the lowest bolts (note
that there is a screw behind the oil cover on the right hand side). When you have
removed them all gently pull the fairing towards you and move it down, if it feels
like its stuck you've probably missed a screw, take a careful look around before
applying any force.
NEED PIC OF BIKE WITH FAIRINGS OFF
Put the fairings somewhere safe so they won?t get damaged. The exhaust is held
on at 4 points. One bolt below the right pillion peg, one below the rear brake
lever, and two behind the front wheel. Loosen the bolts at the pillion peg and the
brake lever then loosen the nuts at the head of the exhaust. Now remove the
nuts at the head of the exhaust, then remove the bolt under the brake lever, then
remove the bolt at the pillion peg. Note: the exhaust tends to fall off the bike at
this point so don't have anything like fingers under it or you'll hurt them. A good
idea is to stick your foot under the exhaust so you can get it down more gently,
but be careful not to hurt yourself if you do this.
NEED PIC OF BIKE WITH EXHAUST OFF
Take the exhaust somewhere where you have plenty of space and you aren't on
anything flammable as you are gonna make a lot of sparks doing this.
Look into the end of the exhaust that connects to the engine, there should be a
copper looking ring around the end of this, if not it?s still in the engine which is
fine, if it?s on the exhaust take it off and put it somewhere safe. This is an
exhaust gasket and helps seal the connection between the engine and the
exhaust. It is advisable to put a new one in when you have finished.

*UK ONLY OPTION 2 cont.*

Looking into the exhaust you should see a flat disk that is facing you with a hole
in the middle, run your fingers in and around you should be able to feel it easily.
Look at this carefully, there are three weld points. These points are where you
need to drill, drill into all of them and the disk that is holding the restrictor on will

fall out. Note that you will probably find that it won?t come off cleanly so you will
need to grind down the edges to make it as smooth as possible, use the dremel
or an appropriate drill bit to do this. Try to get it in line with the rest of the
exhaust wall, it doesn't have to be perfect but smoother the better.

When you've got that plate off and filed it down you are able to get the restrictor
out. Tip the exhaust over and shake it, the restrictor should just fall out, if not
reach in with a pair of pliers and pull it out. It looks like a thin metal pipe. If
you've got it out then your exhaust is now derestricted and ready to go.
*FRANCE ONLY OPTION 2 cont.*
This is a pain to do, but possible if you're on a tight budget and can't afford a new
race can. The restrictor is about 8in inside the exhaust, just before where it starts
to bend, so you can't see it. To remove it you will need to cut straight through the
exhaust about 8in from the end, take out the restrictor, and then weld the
exhaust back together.
*UK AND FRANCE OPTION 2 cont.*
To put the exhaust back on, reconnect the gasket (preferably a new one), and
place the intake of the exhaust over the threads. Run the bolt that fits at the
pillion peg through and loosely attach the nut. Do the same for the brake lever
bolt. Now attach and tighten the nuts at the head of the exhaust, now tighten up
the bolts at the footpegs.
AIRBOX AND CARBURETTER - UK AND FRANCE
This involves removing the fuel tank. This will give you easy access to the
internals of the bike and makes life much easier. To do this, take the seat off, this
is done by inserting your key into the key hole which is located on the left side of
the bike at the rear. Turn the key and pull the lever down that descends as you
turn the key. When this is being pulled use your other hand to pull up on the back
of the seat, it will come off when you pull it backwards. Put it somewhere safe.
Now you can remove the tank, first you will need to disconnect the fuel line, so
set your fuel tap to 'off'. Unless the tank is empty I can't stress that point enough,
if you don't you will p**s petrol everywhere which creates a fire hazard and can
damage your paint.
Go to the front of the fuel tank below the right handle bar, push the handle bar
away from you and look at where the fuel tank meets the frame, below the big
silver nut in the center of your yoke. There will be a 10mm or 12mm alan key
bolt, remove this and place a hand either side of the fuel tank and pull up then
connect the stand.
To remove the fuel line look at the fuel tap, there will be a hose connected to this
running into the bike, with the fuel tap set to 'off' disconnect the clip that holds it

on, you may need pliers for this. When it's disconnected shut the tank again but
don't attach the alan bolt.
On one side of the bike there is a gold bolt at the base of the tank where it pivots
when you lift it, you need to remove this bolt. To get to it you need to pop the
rear side fairings off.
This involves pulling the panel gently and it will pop out of the o-ring thats
holding it. Remove the bolt and you can now lift up the tank and place it
somewhere safe. I recommend you place the fuel tap onto an old rag that will
soak up any minor leaks.
Now you need to modify the airbox. The air box is the big black plastic box sat in
the middle. You remove it but by undoing the screws/bolts at its base. It might
have a couple of hoses attached to it that you'll need to remove, if so, just pull
them out gently. Take the airbox to a work bench or whatever you've got, and
take the top out by removing the 6.
*AIRBOX MODIFICATION OPTION 1*
Using a saw or something cut a square out of the top, doesn't have to be huge
but try to keep it to the front of the air box mounting. Now place the speaker
mesh or whatever you have decided to use over the hole, if it?s too small get a
bigger one, if it?s too big cut it down. Now use some tapering screws it down
through the plastic.
*AIRBOX MODIFICATION OPTION 2*
Use a 2.5mm - 4mm drill bit and drill regularly spaced holes into the top of the
airbox, coving the same area as the mesh in the picture.
THROTTLE NEEDLE
You need to set the throttle needle on the second notch from the top.
NEED MORE INFO ON THIS
NEED PIC OF THROTTLE NEEDLE
RC VALVES CONTROL UNIT - FRENCH ONLY
NEEED INSTRUCTIONS FOR THIS
This is an RC Valve Control Unit from a French bike. They don't usually have
crappy black writing on them (see below).
CARBON REEDS - OPTIONAL
NEED INSTRUCTIONS FOR THIS
These are a pair of standard reeds. They don't usually have crappy black writing
on them (see below).
Reattach the top of the airbox to the bottom, but don't put it back in the bike yet.
It is a good idea to clean the air filter or replace it while you do this.

Now you need to move on to the carburetter, replacing the jets and removing the
intake plate restrictor. This should be what you are seeing right now (see below).
The shiny silver thing in the middle which the air box was attached to. This is the
carburetter and you need to get this out. You can do this two ways, you can
disconnect all of the hoses etc. and do this off the bike, or if you have an extra
pair of hands you can perform this while the carburetter is still mostly attached.
You should see a pipe that connects the carburetter to the engine, you need to
get this pipe off. You also you need to unscrew the servo motor to get in (see
below).
When you get this pipe off you will see the intake plate restrictor (see below).
Take the screws off and pull the restrictor out, then reassemble the connection
from the carburetter to the engine, and reattach the servo motor.
Now you need to upjet. The new jets you bought should like these standard jets
(see below).
Remove this bolt (see below).
Now the bottom of the carburetter should detach, exposing the jets so you can
swap them (see below).
The main jet is found in the bolt that you had to remove to take the bottom of the
carburetter off.
The best way to do this is to unscrew the jet you are removing, place it
somewhere safe. Now take the jet that replaces it and screw it in, do this for the
other 2 jets.
Now rebuild the carburetter.
Reattach the carburetter.
Reattach the airbox.
Reattach the tank.
Reattach the fuel line.
Put side fairings back on.
CDI UNIT - FRANCE ONLY
The CDI unit is an electrical box that controls your rev limit amoungst other
things, and is located under the seat, so before you put the seat back on you

need to change it. Just in front of the rear light assembly you should see a flat
metal plate with 1 or 2 round holes cut into it (see below).
NEED PHOTO OF UNDER THE SEAT
Underneath this is your CDI unit it. It is very fiddly and tight around there, but you
can just about manage to twist it round to read the model number. It should be
CI639, and it needs changing to a CI626 unit. It looks like this (see below).
To change it you will probably need to take the rear side fairings off, and unbolt
any obstructions. It has 3 sets of wires (group of 2, group of 4 and 1 on its own).
Before you just plug the new one in you need to swap a couple of wire around.
Take the group of 4 wires coming from the bike and gently pull the green and
black wire, and the yellow wire out of the plastic block, and swap them over,
putting them back into each others terminal using crimpers or whatever tool does
the job. Now you can plug it in, and put any parts back on that you had to take
off.
Airbox and Carburetter Cont.
Put the seat back on and turn the fuel line back on, put the key in and try the
starter. It probably will take a couple of ticks to start, but it should fire up and you
will hear a very different tone to what you have heard before.
Go out and ride, just be aware when you hit 7000rpm you will be surprised at the
difference so go easy. I suggest going onto a dual carriage way with no speed
cameras to test it out.
SPROKETS - OPTIONAL
NEED INSTRUCTIONS FOR THIS
BARREL PISTON KIT - FRENCH ONLY - OPTIONAL
You only need to do this if your pressure is low, and it is not recommended.
NEED INSTRUCTIONS FOR THIS

If you need any help or have any questions about this guide, please post in the
forum and we will try our best to help. Additionally, if anyone can help
improve/add to/correct/supply photos for it then please let us know and we will
update it.
All feedback is appreciated <img
src='http://www.125ccsportsbikes.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DI
R#>/smile. gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

Credits

ncrn - wrote first draft/photos

fluid - rewrote/amends/photos/additional info
Dangerousdave2510 - photos/additional info
Alains - photos/information
*** Had to remove the pictures due to them being hosted on another forum.