Build An LED Propeller Clock

Build An LED Propeller Clock
Microprocessor drives POV effect

By Bob Blick
My "Propeller Clock" is a mechanically scanned LED clock with seven
light emitting diodes that spin, giving the illusion of numbers floating in
the air. This is the first clock I ever built. I've built a few LED signs, but
they get boring because I already know the message.
This clock utilizes only a few relatively inexpensive electronic
components and a recycled motor from a VCR or floppy drive.
The Propeller Clock (Bundle) Parts List
Capacitors:
C1, C2 - 33pF ceramic capacitors
C3, C6 - 0.1F ceramic capacitors
C4 - 47F electrolytic capacitors
C5 - 47,000F supercap (memory cap)
Diodes:
D1-D7 - light emitting diodes
D8-16 - 1N4001 general purpose 1 amp rectifiers
Resistors:
R1 - 120 DIP array or seven 120 ohm resistors
R2-R6 - 10k resistors
Misc:
J1 - Straight pin male header
SW1-SW3 - normally open pushbutton switches
U1 - 16F84 programmed with mclock code
XTAL1 - 4MHz crystal
MOTOR - Use or recycle any DC motor, preferably meant for 12
volts so the speed will not be too great when operated at
approximately 6.2 volts.
How this clock works:

A motor spins the "propeller", and a small microprocessor keeps track of time and changes the
pattern on seven LEDs with exact timing to simulate a 7 x 30 array of LEDs. It is an illusion, but it
works nicely.
If you want to build this clock, you will need a few things:
Skill with motors and mechanical things

Prior electronic experience
A dead VCR or floppy drive or other source of a suitable motor and miscellaneous parts
A programmer that will program a 16F84 microprocessor
DIY LED Propeller

Clock schematic
The clock is on a spinning piece of perfboard, but it must get power. I thought of many ways to do
this, including using two motors (motor one has its shaft fixed to a base, and motor two spins the
body of motor one, generating electricity), making arotary transformer, or using slip rings.
Eventually, I decided to do it another way, taking power from the spinning armature of a plain DC
motor. In order to run the wires
out of the motor, I removed the bearing from one end of the motor, leaving a big hole.
There are three terminals inside most small DC motors, and it acts a lot like three-phase
alternating current, so it must be rectified back to DC. A nice side effect of this is that the position
of the motor can be detected by taking one of the phases straight into the microprocessor.
Step One: Mangle a Motor

Find a VCR, perhaps a Sharp or a Samsung, with a flat reel motor. The motor I have is marked
JPA1B01, but Sharp knows it by the number RMOTV1007GEZZ (author's note: Sharp motor is
obsolete. Use any DC motor, preferably meant for 12 volts so the speed will not be too great
when operated at approximately 6.2 volts). Take it apart without mangling the brushes (there are
little holes to slip a paperclip into to move the brushes out of the way), and notice that it has one
ball bearing and one sleeve bearing.
Knock the sleeve bearing out of the case and glue or solder it to the other end of the motor, as an
extension of the ball bearing. The shaft of the motor will have to be repositioned slightly to get the
right height, press it in a vise with a hollow spacer on one end. Take a Berg connector with three
wires and solder them to the three terminals on the motor's armature. Glue a short threaded
spacer to the shaft at the end that will stick out the hole, and reassemble the motor (be careful
with the brushes). You can glue the motor to a VCR head as a weighted base.
Disassembling the motor
Step Two: Build the Circuit

I used perfboard (Vectorboard) and hand-wired the circuit together. Use an 18-pin socket for
the 16F84 because it needs to be programmed before putting it in the circuit. For the 7 currentlimit resistors I used a DIP resistor array because it made it easy to experiment with LED
brightness. I settled on 120. You can use seven regular resistors, because 120 ohms works
fine, though it puts the peak current right at the limit for the 16C84. Think about balance while
you build this circuit, and reference my pictures, so you don't have to add a lot of balancing
weight later. Substitute for any part values you like. Note that I used a47000F supercap, it is to
keep the clock running after turning it off so you can set the time. The LEDs get power separate
from this. Don't substitute a ceramic resonator for the 4MHz crystal, this is a clock and should be
accurate.
The assembled PCB.
Foil view of the PCB
Step Three: Program the PIC16C84A

You'll need a programmer that will program a PIC16C84A. If you found this file/web page, you
can find plans to build a 16C84 programmer. Program it using the hex file accompanying this
document. I have included the source code (.asm) just for your amusement. When programming
the chip, set the chip options to: watchdog timer (WDT) ON and oscillator to normal XTcrystal.
Step Four: Throw It Together and Keep Time
Screw the circuit board to the motor, and plug the three wire connector in. Apply power to the
motor. The preferred voltage is 6.2 volts, but it will run from 5 volts to about 7.5 volts. Note that 5
volts gets to the circuit when 6.2 volts is applied to the motor, because of diode 252BNAV losses.
The clock may be working at this point, displaying 12:00. If it isn't, there was probably some
voltage on the supercap (memory cap) when you plugged in the chip.
Turn off the power and momentarily short pins 5 and 4 together (ground and /mclr) to reset the
chip. Now when you apply power the clock should work, and you can set it by turning off the
power and pushing the buttons (hours, 10 minutes, minutes) the right number of times. If the
numbers appear backwards, reverse the polarity to the motor to make it spin the other way. You
might experiment with balancing the clock, and the use of foam under the base to reduce
vibrtion.
Top View
Side View
Step Five: Modifications

If you look closely at the source code, you'll see that the "dot rate" is adjusted to the speed of
the motor to make the display a consistent width regardless of the motor's speed. The motor I
used has brushes set 90 degrees apart, and gives two indexes each revolution. The clock
displays on two sides, 180 degrees apart. If you use a motor with the brushes 180 apart, the
clock will only display on one side, and the numbers will be too wide. You'll want to modify the
program, in the section marked D_lookup_3. The value in the W register when Delay gets called
effects the width of the digits. You might try sending half of the period_calc value to Delay;
perhaps by rotating period_calc right into W (remember to clear the carry flag first).
Like this:
bcf STATUS,C
rrf period_calc,w
call Delay
Downloads and Resources:
mclock8.asm The source code in Microchip MPASM format.
mclock8.hex The hex code ready to load into a PIC16C84A or 16F84 chip.
mclksch2.gif A large and very readable schematic diagram.
mclkmoto.gif A drawing of the modifications to the motor.
If you can't get that kind of motor, you can use the motor from an old disk drive. This page has a
lot of pictures and will take some time to load. If you use a disk drive motor or any other DC
motor with brushes 180 degrees apart, you'll need the slightly revised code:
mclockt3.asm The source code.
mclockt3.hex The hex code ready to put in a chip.

Build An LED Propeller Clock

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Build An LED Propeller Clock

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Build An LED Propeller Clock

Microprocessor drives POV effect

How this clock works:

Skill with motors and mechanical things

DIY LED Propeller

Step One: Mangle a Motor

Disassembling the motor

Step Two: Build the Circuit

The assembled PCB.

Foil view of the PCB

Step Three: Program the PIC16C84A

Step Four: Throw It Together and Keep Time

Step Five: Modifications

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