Building A Fish Pond

building
a fish pond
1. scope
This leaflet deals with the construction of a pond shell in
concrete. Aspects of pond design and maintenance such as
water circulation and filtration are not included and the
reader is advised to get specialist information on these at
the design stage.
Paving or planting
Slope down
Bricks laid
in mortar
2. introduction
The method described in this leaflet is suitable for ponds with
a diameter or length of up to about 5 metres.
The floor and sides of the pond are formed by a fairly thin
continuous concrete shell which is lightly reinforced. No
additional waterproofing membrane is used and the concrete
shell serves as the water container. The surrounding soil is
relied on to support the shell when the pond is full of water.
For the system to work successfully it is important that:

The pond is constructed in undisturbed subsoil and not

in filled soil.
The concrete in the shell is thoroughly compacted to
ensure that it is free of voids.
Many ponds of this type have in recent years been constructed

successfully both by professional landscapers and do-it-yourself
enthusiasts.
3. making provision for rainwater runoff

Rainwater which falls on the garden or paving surrounding the
pond must not be allowed to run into the pond. The area
immediately around the pond must therefore be sloped away
from the pond as shown in Figure 1.
4. edge detail
It is advisable to create a nearly horizontal (but sloping down
away from the pond) rim around the edge of the pond. This will
serve to strengthen the shell. The rim can be left exposed but
will probably look better if it is covered with bricks or stones
laid in mortar. See Figure 1.
Pond shell
Rim
Curve in shell
Figure 1: Details of edge of pond
5. excavating
Excavate in undisturbed sub-soil to the required size and shape
allowing for a total shell thickness of 40 to 50 mm. The water
depth should be at least 450 mm but 700 mm is preferred for
fish. The transition between side and bottom should be curved
as shown in Figure 1 - sharp corners are difficult to build and
are weaker than curves.
6. lining and evacuation

This is done to ensure that the mesh stays clean and concrete
used for the pond is not contaminated by soil.
Line the excavation with a coat of cement plaster about 15 mm
thick using 1 part of cement to 6 parts of sand, both materials
measured in a loose state. Use enough water in the mix to
produce a workable, plastic consistence.
7. spacer blocks
8. mesh
You will need at least 16 blocks for every square metre of pond
shell including the rim. Make spacer blocks of mortar and place
the head of a 75 mm nail in the centre of each block. Block size
should be 15 mm thick by 30 mm by 30 mm. Block details are
shown in Figure 2.
Place two layers of galvanized chicken mesh (25 mm openings)

against the spacer blocks to that the mesh is 15 mm clear of the
plaster lining. The twisted wires of the two layers should, as far
as possible, be at right angles to each other as shown in Figure
4. The edges of the mesh should be overlapped by at least 50
mm and laps staggered as far as possible. Ends of wires must be
twisted under the mesh and not be allowed to stick out.
75 mm nail
Mortar
15 mm
30 mm
30
mm
First layer
Second layer
Figure 2: Details of spacer block

Mortar for spacer blocks should consist of a mixture of 1 part of
cement, 1 part of coarse sand and just enough water to produce
a plastic consistence. After casting the blocks cover them with
plastic sheeting for 24 hours to prevent drying out. Then cure
them by keeping them under water for at least a week.
Figure 4: Orientation of mesh layers

Fix the mesh in position with hooks pushed through the
plaster as shown in Figure 5. The hooks can be made of 4 mm
thick wire.
Fix spacer blocks about 250 mm apart in both directions and

by pushing the nail through the plaster lining into the soil as
shown in Figure 3.
2 layers mesh
Spacer block
Spacer block
Soil
4 mm wire
hook
15 mm
75 mm nail
15 mm plaster
lining to excavation
Figure 5: Fixing the mesh

Figure 3: Plaster lining and spacer block
The mesh must be continued into the rim at the edge of the
pond.
9. mixing the concrete

Concrete for the shell is mixed in the proportions:
Cement complying with SABS ENV 197-1*;
type CEMIor CEMIIA:
Coarse concrete sand:
Fine pit (plaster) sand:
6 mm stone:
Potassium dichromate
or potassium chromate:
1 bag (50kg)
60 l
20 l
50 l
4g
plus enough water to give a plastic consistence similar to plaster.

* Note that it is illegal to sell cement not bearing the SABSmark.
10. notes:

Batching of concrete materials must be done accurately.

Do not mix more than a one-bag batch at a time.
Mixing may be done in a concrete mixer or by hand on
a concrete slab or steel plate.
Chromate salt (potassium dichromate or potassium
chromate) is included in the mix to prevent the zinc
galvanizing layer on the mesh from reacting with the
cement and so impairing the bond between concrete
and mesh.
11. placing and curing the concrete

It is important to place the entire shell in one continuous
operation to avoid creating joints which may become lines
of weakness. Make sure therefore that sufficient materials
and labour are available.
Before starting to place the concrete remove any foreign
objects or debris such as leaves, twigs, soil lumps, etc from
the excavation.
Cover as soon as possible with plastic sheeting to ensure that

the concrete cures in a moist state. The plastic sheeting should
preferably be light coloured white or clear because dark
colours can cause heat to build up in the concrete. The pond
can be filled slowly two days after placing the concrete but the
cover should remain in position until filling is complete. Parts of
the concrete shell above the water level should be kept wet and
covered for two weeks.
If filling has to be delayed, keep the cover over the shell for
at least two weeks during which time the concrete should be
kept visibly wet.
Change the water after it has been in the pond for a fortnight
before stocking with fish and plants. (Several water changes are
better.)
12. quantities of materials

A one-bag batch mixed to the proportions given above should
be sufficient to do about 3 m2 of shell.
13. repairs
Drain the pond before attempting repairs. Cracks in the shell
can be repaired as follows:
(a) Cut out a band of concrete 15 mm deep by 150 mm wide
along the crack so that the crack is in the centre of the
band. Do not cut through the mesh.
(b) Remove all loose material including dust from the area
which has been cut out. if possible use an industrial
vacuum cleaner to do this.
(c) Fix a 140 mm wide strip of galvanised mesh (25 mm or
preferably 13 mm openings) to the existing mesh where
the concrete has been cut out.
Concrete placing should be done in the shade if at all possible.

Using a plasterers trowel with the corners rounded off, press
the concrete through the mesh, filling up to the mesh and
removing the wire hooks as placing progresses.
Apply immediately afterwards another 15 mm of concrete
over the mesh so that the total concrete thickness is 30 mm.
It is very important to press the concrete firmly into position
to compact it thoroughly.
Wood float the concrete to give a fairly rough texture. If a
smooth texture is required, use a steel trowel but only after the
concrete has started to stiffen. Do not trowel if a layer of water
is covering the surface of the concrete. If placing is not done in
the shade keep the surface of the concrete moist by spraying
lightly but frequently with water using a gardeners mist
sprayer. Use only enough water to maintain a sheen on
the surface.
(d) Prime the back and sides of the groove with a mixture of
cement and water made to the consistence of thin cream.
The priming coat must be applied in a very thin layer. Do
not pre-wet the concrete before priming.
(e) Immediately afterwards, before the priming coat can dry
out, pack a fairly dry mixture of 1 part cement and 2 parts
sand into the groove. The sand should be fairly coarse sand
which has been passed through a 2,36 mm sieve. Compact
the patch using an orbital sander, fitted with a smooth steel
plate on the surface, filling any low areas and scraping off
high areas.
(f ) Keep the patch damp until the pond is filled.
The Concrete Institute, its directors, officers, employees, representatives

and agents are not liable for any death, harm or injury caused to any
person or any loss, destruction or damage caused to any persons
property or possessions arising from goods supplied or services
rendered by The Concrete Institute.
the concrete institute

po box 168, halfway house, 1685
block d, lone creek, waterfall park, bekker road, midrand
T 011 315 0300 F 011 315 0315 E-mail [email protected] website www.theconcreteinstitute.org.za
published by the concrete institute, midrand, 2013
the concrete institute

Building A Fish Pond

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Building A Fish Pond

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Description:

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Building A Fish Pond

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

building

The pond is constructed in undisturbed subsoil and not

Many ponds of this type have in recent years been constructed

3. making provision for rainwater runoff

Figure 1: Details of edge of pond

6. lining and evacuation

Place two layers of galvanized chicken mesh (25 mm openings)

Figure 2: Details of spacer block

Figure 4: Orientation of mesh layers

Fix spacer blocks about 250 mm apart in both directions and

Figure 5: Fixing the mesh

9. mixing the concrete

plus enough water to give a plastic consistence similar to plaster.

Batching of concrete materials must be done accurately.

11. placing and curing the concrete

Cover as soon as possible with plastic sheeting to ensure that

12. quantities of materials

Concrete placing should be done in the shade if at all possible.

The Concrete Institute, its directors, officers, employees, representatives

the concrete institute

You might also like