Labour Rate

PREFACE
On completion of the Sixth semester of Apparel Manufacturing & Information

Technology - a Four year Apparel Production Under-graduate course students
are exposed to an eight week industry internship with a garment manufacturing
organization as part of their course curriculum.
The objective of this summer internship is aimed at blending the classroom
principles with industry application. The other specific purpose includes:
Exposure to factory and office conditions.
Study of manufacturing processes thoroughly.
Understand inter and intra - departmental procedures.
Analyze different working procedures and write down problems and

suggestions.
Understand industry expectations from a DFT student.
For this purpose we did our internship at Gokaldas images and are grateful
to the management who granted their permission and opportunity for the same.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Ourselves, P.S.Shraddha and Radhika Ahlawat, students of four year
Apparel Production course in Department of Fashion Technology, in National
Institute of Fashion Technology,Hyderabad, for the partial fulfillment of our
course, underwent a Summer Internship at Gokaldas Images, at its Sri
Venkateshwara Garment Unit for eight Weeks.
For the same we would like to thank our course coordinator Ms. Sharmila
Sure, without whose concern and efforts, this internship would never have been
possible.
We are also highly grateful to Mr. Deepak Reddy, General Manager,
Manufacturing Dept., Gokaldas Images, Head office, who granted us the
permission to work as internees.
We would like to thank Mr. Bhimarao, Vice President, HR Dept.,
Gokaldas Images, Head office, who helped us during the project.
We would like to thank Mr. Prashanth, Factory Manager, Sri
Venkateshwara Garment Unit, our mentor and guide throughout the Internship,
who assisted us throughout our internship and made it a fine learning experience.
Apart from these, we would also like to thank the various workers and staff
members who were there to assist us at every step and to answer our queries.
PART-1
1. INTRODUCTION
1.1 COMPANY PROFILE
Since its inception in 1979, Gokaldas Images (GI) has achieved sustained
growth and crossed milestones, the present focus is however, is on achieving the
same, within the organization- through its people, processes, culture and quality.
One of the biggest achievements for GI, is the internal integration of man,
machine and thought into a single GI spirit. The existence of this spirit is what
resonates and throbs inside the organization and its actions and efforts is what
the world has seen as Gokaldas Images brand.
Flexibility in approach couples with agility in action has become GIs hallmark
and it sets them apart in the borderless business world.
1.2 FACT FILE:
Gokaldas Images (GI), since 1979
GI
One of Indias largest integrated clothing corporations.
GI body
7 divisions in manufacturing, retailing and exporting.
GI domestic
70 exclusive retail outlets and over 200 selling points.
GI size
18 automated factories with 4800 machines.
GI turnover
Exceeds USD 70 million
GI life
9000 committed and highly skilled people.
1.3 GI DIVISIONS:
GI today stands equal to the worlds largest fashion houses, with its export
operations organized into seven product- seven divisions that function as
independent profit centers.
1.3.1 Fashion wear:
Products
Mens and boys shirts, trousers, casual summer jackets and shorts, ladies and
girls dresses, skirts, trousers, embroidered and embellished tops, golf wear in
woven fabrics.
Fabrics
Cotton and cotton blends, linen and linen blends, silk and silk blends, wool and
wool blends, micro-polyester and polyester blends, yarn dyed, jacquards,
computerized embroideries and prints.
Monthly capacity
2,50,000
1.3.2 Outerwear:
Products
Light weight summer jackets in nylons and other weather proof fabrics, heavy
padded anoraks, woolen coats, windcheaters, parkas, athletic tanks, jogging
suits, ski-suits, track suits, swim wear, shorts for men and boys, riding and
hunting jackets.
Fabrics
Nylon and nylon blended fabrics, performance fabrics, fleece, micro-fiber
polyester, moisture wicking fabrics, anti-bacterial fabrics, breathable polyester
blends, faux suede in polyester and blends, light weight nylon.
Monthly capacity
100,000
1.3.3 Denim wear

Products
Embellished, washed, sand-blasted and sprayed jeans, jackets, shirts and
dresses.
Fabrics
Light and heavy weight denims, canvas, drill and heavy twill.
Monthly capacity
75,000
1.3.4 Active Wear
Products
Mercerized polos, cut and sewn knits, ladies basic and fashion tees, knitted tops,
moisture maintenance tees.
Fabrics
2/60s and 2/80s double mercerized knits, micro-polyester fibres, nylon and poly
blends, rayon/cotton blended knits, single jersey and interlock, yarn dyed stripes
and auto stripes, lycra blends.
Monthly capacity
250000
1.3.5 Lingeries
Products
Brassiere, panties, corset bras, support bras, athletic bras.
Fabrics
Cotton and cotton laces, nylon-spandex, stretch laces, micro-polyester blends.
Monthly capacity
200000
1.3.6 Women formal wear
Products
Ladies suits, trousers, skirts and dresses
Fabrics
Woolen and wool blends, polyester blends, silk, micro fibres, linen blends.
Monthly capacity
50000
1.3.7 Suits & Dress Pants
Products
Men suits, blazers, dress-shirts and trousers.
Fabrics
Woolen and wool blends, polyester blends, silk, micro fibres, linen blends, cotton
and cotton blend, fine, solid dyed and yarn dyed shirtings.
Monthly capacity
90000
1.4 GI USA
With the globe shrinking and distances dwindling, thanks to jet age and
computers, GI decided to be close to the client. The result was a a fully functional
office and showroom in New York. A dedicated team in this Manhattan office
works tirelessly to pre-empt and meet the client requirements.
1.5 COLLABORATIONS
Recognition of GIs effort in the global garment manufacturing scene came in the
form of several international tie-ups.
BARBARA has a joint venture with GI to manufacture and retail lingerie in India
and Europe.
PLAYTEX is a buy back agreement with Saralee Corporation.
K-LIFE is a license to produce urban clothing for USA.
OXFORD CLOTHING has a manufacturing agreement with GI for mens suits.
On the anvil is the extension of the same to formal wear.
LEVIS has a manufacturing agreement with GI, for denims in India.
1.6 GI LOGISITICS
Bangalore, the manufacturing base of GI, has over a dozen direct freighter flights
a week, landing at major European and American cargo hubs.
Chennai, a major port is just 6 hrs away by road.
1.7 GI INFRASTRUCTURE
18 specialized garment manufacturing facilities.
Six node lectra CAD/Cam facility.
All accompaniments for global electronic exchange of pattern data.
Stringent sampling and quality control systems.
In-house textile quality lab.
In-house washing facility.
In-house multi-head embroidery.
STM, AATCC, ISO and DIN standards followed
Single web-based information system connecting all operations.
1.8 GI RETAIL
Leveraging its core strengths in distribution, merchandising and image creation,
GI introduced the concept of branded clothing, franchising and the open store, to
Indian market WEEKENDER through its associate firm Personality Ltd. in 1987.
Weekender which focused on youth fashion was later extended to childrens
wear, for the 2-12 years age group and branded as Weekender Kids.
Every season Weekender and Weekender Kids launch more than 200 new
styles. Both the brands today are retailed through two separate franchise chains
in 70 exclusive outlets in cities across the nation. They are the leading brands in
their segment, in size, brand appeal and influence on the market.
The domestic retail initiative of GI also includes licensed brands from Warner
Bros. like Harry Potter, Tom & Jerry, Loony tunes and Mickey Mouse & Donald
Duck from Disney. These ranges are conceptualized and manufactured in-house.
Gokaldas Intimatwear, is a joint venture with Barbara of Paris. The JV shall bring
high quality ladies innerwear to the Indian market, with various brand offerings
beginning with enamor.
1.9 RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT:

GI combines the diverse strengths of the domestic handloom and other traditional
skills with new international developments to produce an in-house fabric range for
every season.
Equipped with state of the art CAD and other facilities, the GI Design and
Resource Centre adds GI as a preferred source of original fabric, offering a rich
variety of designs, blends and constructions, unavailable elsewhere.
1.10 GI WHERE COMPLIANCES ARE A GIVEN:
International human rights laws followed.
Strict compliance with anti-child labor laws.
Health insurance, pension and bonuses, gratuity, paid-medical leave and

day care centre provided.
Minimum wages and overtime regulation.
Special cell under HRD o take care of grievances.
Fire drill and first aid training is provided at all facilities on regular basis.
Extensive biological effluent treatment plant.
Azo-free and environment friendly dyeing process.
The result is a certification and an approval from audit agencies and clients alike
GI has been found to have compliant facilities by agencies like SGS, CSSC, ITS
and Price Waterhouse Cooper.
1.11 GI CREATIVITY WITHOUT BORDERS
The shrinking marketplace, the constantly changing business environment and
the ever-changing needs of the customers, have redefined the way they do
business.
Backward integration, joint commitments, license agreements, extensive in-house
R&D, and our flexibility, all stem from the corporate mission, creativity without
borders.
1.12LOCATION
1.12.1 GI INDIA
7&12, Industrial Suburb, 2nd Stage,
Yeshwanthpur, Tumkur Road,
Bangalore-560022.
Tel: 91-80-3377059/60
1.12.2 GI USA
Suite 2704/05, 1400 Broadway,
New York
N.Y. 10018
Tel: 212-730-3950
1.13 FACTORY PROFILE

Factory name:
M/s Gokaldas Images

M/s Sri Venketeshwara Garments-I
No. 1-35/5/1, Ind. Suburb, Yeshwanthpur
N.H. 4, Tumkur Road,
Bangalore-560022
Telephone no.:
91-80-23379194
Fax:
91-80-23471757
Contact Person:
Mr. Prashanth
Factory Manager
E-mail:
[email protected]
Total area:
8798 square feet
Product category that

can be handled by the
factory:
Trousers
Jackets
Denims
Product strength:
Jackets
Fabric handling
Capabilities:
.
1.14ORGANISATION CHART
ORGANISATION CHART:
2. PROCESS FLOW
Buyer Orders
Finalization of Measurement Charts, Patterns and Styles Sheets ordered

by Buyer
Sampling
o Sampling Execution & Follow up
o Costing
o Sampling Shipments
o Re sampling (If any rejections are received)
o Sampling Approvals
Planning
o Planning the time required for each of the processes involved in the
execution
o Raw material calculations as per average sheets, adding
wastage/shrinkage at appropriate processes.
o Raw material Procurement
o Fabric requirements
o Non fabric trims/ accessories requirements
o Packing material requirements
Procurement of fabric and non fabric items and accessories

o Approvals from buyer (if required)
o Checking/inspection of raw material
o Rejects
o Resource planning
o Manpower and machinery

o Production line planning
o Information clarity to production
Cutting
o Instructions/Orders to the in-house Cutting Department
o Calculation
of
the
fabric
requirement
and
checking
the
stock/availability once again

o Issue of the fabric / Lining / Other Material etc.
o Layering and Cutting
o Bundling of cut pieces
o Inventory of cut pieces/Bundles/Lots
Sewing
o Stitch Orders/Instructions
o Issue of cut pieces
o Calculation of raw material requirements
o Issue of raw materials
o Approval of a few stitched pieces before regularizing the issue of
fabrics/raw material
o Issue of other things like samples / patterns / designs / other special
considerations/ Measurement charts.
o Reception of Stitched pieces Checking
o Alteration (if required)
Finishing & Packing

o Instruction/orders
o Issue of pieces
o Reception of finished and packed pieces
o Checking
o Rejects
o Buying agent visits for inspection
o Inspection comments
2.1
Re processing cycle
Shipment/dispatch
DURING
THE
PROCESS
FLOW
DIFFERENT
MEETINGS
ARE
CONDUCTED
2.1.1 PRE PRODUCTION MEETING
Objective
To confirm that the order has been placed.

To discuss and confirm any issues that must be
resolved.
Discuss any machine or attachment requirements.
Discuss any training requirements
Broad Questions
What are the required machines and attachments.

What sewing skill would need to be developed.
Are there any queries regarding the construction of
the garment ?
Point person
Merchandiser
Chairperson
Merchandiser Manager
Participants
The following persons should contribute to this

meeting.
Additional people should be asked to attend when
their expertise is required.
o Merchandiser manager
o Technical manager
o Factory manager or Production manager
o Industrial engineer
o Merchandiser
o Fabric technologist
o Planning manager
o Cutting room manager
o QC
Time Frame
Within 3 days of an order being confirmed.
Pre-requisite
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
A sample garment or sketch.

A style file has been started.
Information on special requirements.(Printing, embroidery etc)
A BOM with all details.
Garment breakdown, machine and attachment requirements.
Production plan with number of teams required.
2.1.2 PILOT APPRAISAL MEETING

Objective
To go through the first production and confirm that the

required standards can be achieved in bulk
To confirm Go To Bulk.
To confirm trim and fabric consumptions
Broad Questions
Discuss all the raw materials

Colour coding and matching trims, etc.
Are measurements to specification.
Point person
Factory Manager
Chairperson
Technical Manager
Participants

meeting.

o Technical manager
o Production Supervisor.
o QC
Time Frame
As first pilot production is completed and before

cutting Bulk.
Pre-requisite
1. Full style file.

2. First production garments fully complete with
packaging, etc.
3. An approved sample is available.
2.1.3 PRE PRODUCTION MEETING

Objective
To discuss the final style details.

To ensure that the product can be manufactured
consistently in bulk production.
Broad Questions
Are all the required machiners and attachments in

house ?
Do we have the required sewing skill.
Are all queries regarding the construction approved ?
Point person
Technical manager
Chairperson
Factory Manager
Participants

meeting.
o Technical manager
o Factory manager
o Floor in charge
o Merchandiser
o Planner
o QC
o Maintenance
Time Frame
Two weeks before the production start date.
Pre-requisite
1. A garment has been made in the factory.

2. A complete style file including a technical pack.
3. An approved sample.
4. A BOM with all details.
5. Garment breakdown.
2.1.4 START UP MEETINGTART UP MEETING:

Objective
To discuss the final details and raw material

specifications .
To go through the trim card
Broad Questions
Discuss all the raw materials

Color coding and matching trims, etc.
Discuss the fabric inspection report.
Point person
Factory Manager
Chairperson
Merchandiser
Participants

meeting.
o Technical manager
o Merchandiser
o Planning manager
o QC
Time Frame
Three days before the production start date.
Pre-requisite
1. All fabric and trims are in house, tested and

available for use.
2. There are no technical issues outstanding.
3. An approved sample is available.
3. MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
BUYER
MERCHANDISER
Design/Sampling
Production
Fabric
Quality check
Accessories
Documentation
Testing
Shipping
At Gokaldas Images, the merchandising can be divided in two parts:
Marketing Merchandising
Product Merchandising
Marketing Merchandising
Main functions of marketing merchandising are:
Product development
Costing
Getting Purchase Orders

It brings the order, develops the product, and does the costing. It has a
direct access to the Buyer.
Product Merchandising
This is from sourcing to finishing that is from first sample onwards, the product
merchandising work starts and ends till the shipment.
For each style the related merchandiser maintains a package file.
3.1 MERCHANDISERS PACKAGE FILE
1. List of orders pasted on the left hand inside cover of the file.
2. Tech pack.
3. CAD marker-costing and factory.
4. RMR-order wise and summary chart.
5. Trim pro forma invoices from the supplier.
6. Confirmation of the trim.
7. Commercial invoices (C.I.).
8. Confirmation of the CI from the store.
9. Order chart from the buyer.
10. P.O. copies from the buyers.
11. Fabric order confirmations with approved fabrics swatches.
12. Time and action calendar.
13. Hard copy of all incoming and outgoing crucial and important mails that
may be required for future references (buyer related).
14. Mills fabric reports-checking, testing.
15. Internal fabric reports-checking, testing.
16. Buyer approveda. Trim card
b. Shade bands
c. Wash swatch/wash mocks

d. Embroidery/printing
2. Minutes of PP meeting.
3. Hard copies of in/out mails with respect to production-either with
PPD/QA/factory-all concerned and important mails.
4. Size set-passed comments-(buyers).
5. Pilot-approval comments.
6. Internal quality audit reports before final inspection.
7. Packing list.
8. Invoice received from shipping department at Bombay for the purpose of
shipment.
9. Dispatch details i.e. date LR Number dispatched to which CHA destination
vehicle number, number of cartons, number of pieces and sending
factorys name.
3.2 MERCHANDISER IS REQUIRED TO CARRY OUT FOLLWING

ACTIVITIES:
Design/Sampling.
Fabric.
Accessories.
Testing.
Production.
Quality Check.
Documentation.
Shipping/Forwarding.
3.3 WORKING PROCEDURES

1. The orders are generally received on mail. The merchandiser has to take a
hard copy of it. The merchandiser discusses the delivery date with GM-
Merchandising and obtains his signature confirming the delivery date. All such
mails signed copies are filed in a separate "'MASTER BOX FILE" titled "ORDER
CONFIRMATION FILE" which is always with GM-M. During the same period the
merchandiser also goes through all the details of order and verifies the "Order
Calendar Book"
2. The relevant documents i.e.
Tech Pack
Previous CAD marker
Trim charts
Fabrics cuttings
Thread approval
Embroidery or print approval- if any, from the respective SRS files that is
available with the sampling department -headed by the Sampling Manager.
The Merchandising department basically acts like a bridge between the buyer
and the factory. Its basic duty is to book orders from the buyers and make it sure
that the orders are executed according to the buyers requirements in terms of
style, construction, quality and quantity.
This is done by accurate communication between the buyer and the factory.
Hence the merchandiser plays the part of communicating in the form of minute
details, the requirements of the particular style.
3.4 GOALS SET UP BY THE MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT:
1. To ensure reduction in Customer complaints.
2. To ensure timely response and delivery to Customers
3. To work towards increase in the sample approval at first time.
4. To Reduce Associate turnover
3.5 BASIC ACTIVITIES REQUIRED TO BE DONE ON A DAY TO DAY BASIS
REGARDING THE ORDER EXECUTION:
Receiving the order from Buyer and other relevant samples and product
information.
Giving sample material requirements to sourcing teams.
Follow-up of sample production and dispatch to buyers.

Follow-up of sample approvals from Buyers and notifying comments if any
to respective teams.
Communicate to Buyer on the variation in specs, materials etc and followup for approval prior to the bulk production.
Conducting External Pre Production meeting wherever applicable.
3.6 ACTIVITIES REQUIRED TO BE DONE REGARDING THE INFORMATION

FLOW TO THE RELEVANT DEPARTMENTS THROUGH MOVEX AND
TECHNICAL FOLDERS, STYLE DETAILS:
Entering the order details pertaining to Merchandising.
Conduct Order clarity meeting and define the T & A (Time and Action
Calendar) across throughput processes.

Release of material requirements to sourcing function.
Organize to dispatch the samples to buyer and approvals on time.
Ensure availability of product information and approvals to meet the PCDs.
Handing over the folders and style information to PPC on or before the PP
meeting.
Monitoring the production status and timely alert on deviations.
3.7 ACTIVITIES REQUIERED TO BE DONE FOR THE CONTINUOUS
IMPROVEMENT OF THE PROCESS:
Improving the on time sample development and dispatch.
Analyzing the Order completion reports and incorporating the learning in
subsequent orders.
Analyzing the Order completion reports and incorporating the learning in
subsequent orders.
Getting all the update on the product and quality areas by attending the
seminars and through magazines for the better improvement.
3.8 PROCESS FLOW FOR THE MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT:

AAmerchandiser
merchandiserworks
workson
onaaspecific
specificbuyer
buyer
The
Thework
workisisdivided
dividedaccording
accordingtotothe
thetype
typeofofgarment
garment
being
beingdone,
done,e.g.
e.g.mens
menswear.
wear.
..
The
Thedivision
divisionisistaken
takenup
upfor
forthe
theorder
order
..
Packages
Packagesare
aresent
sentby
bythe
thebuyer
buyertotothe
thecompany
companywhich
which
carries
carriesthe
theTECHPAK
TECHPAKincluding
includingthe
thedetails
detailsofofthe
the
garment.
garment.
..
The
Themerchandising
merchandisingdepartment
departmentworks
worksout
outthe
theaccessories
accessoriesand
and
trims
trimsrequired
requiredand
andprepare
prepareaaBill
BillofofMaterial
Material(BOM),
(BOM),which
which
contains
containsthe
theconsumption
consumptionper
pergarment.
garment.ItItisispassed
passedon
ontotothe
the
Purchase
Department.
Purchase Department.
..
The
Thestyle
styleisisgiven
giventotothe
theCentral
CentralPlanning
Planningteam
teamtotowork
workout
outthe
the
SMV
values
and
operation
breakdown.
SMV values and operation breakdown.
..
The
TheTECHPAK
TECHPAKisissent
senttotoallallthe
thedepartments
departmentsconcerned
concernedi.e.
i.e.
sampling
samplingand
andsourcing.
sourcing.
Fabric
Fabricteam:
team:works
worksout
outthe
thecosting
costingofofthe
thefabric;
fabric;yarn,
yarn,knitting,
knitting,
processing,
processing,dyeing,
dyeing,wastages.
wastages.
..
..
Pattern
PatternMaster:
Master:works
worksout
outthe
thepatterns
patterns
..
..
PPC
PPCteam:
team:works
worksout
outthe
thekinds
kindsofofcost,
cost,totobe
beincurred
incurredduring
during
production,
production,finishing,
finishing,packing.
packing.
..
..
Costing
Costingteam:
team:prepares
preparesan
anentire
entirecost
costestimate
estimateofofthe
the
production
of
the
garment
in
bulk.
production of the garment in bulk.
..
costing is cross checked with the higher authorities and

. The
. The costing is cross checked with the higher authorities and
. . then
thensent
senttotothe
thebuyer
buyerafter
aftersome
somechanges
changesififnecessary.
necessary.
..
..
The
Thebuyer
buyerisisinformed
informedabout
aboutthe
thepricing
pricingand
andthe
thesampling
sampling
process
processstarts.
starts.
..
. . Proto,
Proto,Fit,
Fit,Pre
PreProduction
Productionsamples
samplesare
aresent
senttotothe
thebuyer.
buyer.
Checkers/
Helpers
Checkers/
. . Helpers
..
Buyer
on
Buyerreviews
reviewsand
andsends
sendscomments
comments
onthe
theproduct
productfor
for
improvement
improvementorormanipulations.
manipulations.
.
..
The
Thebusiness
businessisisbooked
bookedonce
oncethe
thesamples
samplesare
areapproved
approvedininallall
respects
respects
..
..
The
Thelead
leadtime
timeand
andthe
thedelivery
deliverydates
datesare
areinformed
informedtotothe
thebuyer
buyer
according
accordingtotothe
theorder
ordersize.
size.
. . The
Thebuyer
buyerisisinformed
informedabout
aboutthe
thepricing
pricingand
andthe
thesampling
sampling
process
..
processstarts.
starts.
..
..
The
ThePurchase
PurchaseOrder
Orderisisreceived
receivedby
bythe
thecompany.
company.
..
.All
.Allthe
theconcerned
concerneddepartments
departmentsare
areinformed
informedabout
aboutthe
thecapacity
capacity
booked.
booked.
..
AATime
which
. made
Timeand
andAction
ActionCalendar
Calendarisismade
whichspecifies
specifiesthe
thetime
time
.
period
and
the
dates
of
all
the
activities
like
fabric
sourcing,
period and the dates of all the activities like fabric sourcing,
trim
trimsourcing,
sourcing,cutting
cuttingdate.
date.
..
The
about
. buyer
Themerchandiser
merchandiserinforms
informsthe
thebuyer
aboutthe
theprogress
progressofofthe
the
.
activities
activitiesand
andthe
theupdated
updatedTime
Timeand
andAction
ActionPlan
Planevery
everyweek.
week.
..
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totomeet
..
Allthe
theabove
aboveactivities
activitiesare
areundertaken
undertaken
meetthe
theProduction
Production
Cut
Date
(PCD)
which
is
generally
30
days.
Cut Date (PCD) which is generally 30 days.
..
..
3.9 DETAILED PROCESS ACTIVITIES OF MERCHANDISING

SECTION
3.9.1 ORDER CONFIRMATION AND FOLLOW UP:
This department is the main link between the factory and the
buyers. The buyers rely on the merchandisers to provide them with
the information regarding the capacity available, the style feasibility
and the setting up of delivery dates for the shipment.
There is a merchandising team dedicated for each buyer. For

example there are separate merchandising teams for Armani
Exchange, Abercrombie & Fitch etc.
Each of this merchandising team has a Senior Merchandiser. Under

his guidance there is a team of 6-8 Junior Merchandisers. This
team is further supported by 1or 2 Data Entry Operators and Office
Coordinators.
This process involves receiving the initial order details from the
buyers representative and communicating through E-mail and
telephonic conversations.
The merchandising team keeps the buyer updated about all the
developments taking place regarding the order.
The order booking and the order confirmation details are received
by the merchandising team who further transfers this information to
the other departments.
3.9.2 PREPARATION OF BILL OF MATERIALS:
The merchandising team receives the details of all the style features
in the particular order. This also includes the following :
Fabric quality details
Thread Details
Finish Details
Accessories like beads, sequins, laces etc.
Prints and Embroidery
Trims like buttons, zippers
Wash care labels
Size labels
Brand labels
Packing Material details
Hangtags
Besides
receiving
this
information
from
the
buyer,
the
merchandisers also receive the Fabric consumption per garment for

each size from the sampling section, Thread consumption per
garment from the Central Planning department and the accessories
requirement per garment from the sampling department.
Based on this information received, the merchandiser prepares a

Bill of Materials (BOM). This has the complete details of the
requirement of all the parts going into the making of the garment.
Each of the material is stated above is mentioned per garment.
This BOM is entered into the ERP package by the Data Entry
Operators for access by the Purchase Department.
The BOM is used by the Purchase Department and the Fabric

Sourcing Department to order the materials as per the order
quantity.
3.9.3 PREPARATION OF TIME & ACTION CALENDER/PLAN;
The department prepares a tentative Time and Action Calendar for

the activities like
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
Sample development
Sample approval
Lab Dip approvals
Trims approvals
Accessories approval
Pre Production sample approvals
Cutting start date
Sewing start date
Embroidery start date
Finishing start date
Shipment dispatch date.
The planned and actual dates of the TNA are entered into the sheet
as and when the activities are carried out. Any deviations are
looked into and the decisions are made.
The buyer representatives are also regularly updated about the

developments on the TNA and the order status.
3.9.4 COORDINATING THE SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT PROCESS:
The merchandising department plans and coordinates the activities

of the sampling department.
The sampling section is given the TECHPAK which contains all the
relevant details.
The samples to be made are planned in the merchandising

department and the plan is given to the sampling section.
The samples are sent to the merchandising department for initial

approvals according to the spec sheet provided by the buyer. The
samples are sent to the buyer for approvals only when they are
approved by the merchandising department.
The sampling department is also informed by the merchandising

about the types of samples required by the buyer.
The merchandiser receives the buyer comments for all the samples
and makes it sure it is informed to the sampling and the necessary
changes made in all the required areas.
3.9.5 GETTING
APPROVALS
FOR
VARIOUS
PURPOSES
FOR
THE
GARMENT:
Once an order is booked, Order Clarity Meeting is conducted to

understand the requirements in detail. Samples are prepared and
send to customer for approval. Similarly, throughout the
production activities, the interaction with customer is made as
explained bellow.
Fabric Approvals: We get the approval from customer for the

fabrics sourced for manufacturing garments. In some cases, the
buyer certifies the supplier base, and we procure the materials
from them.
Yarn Dyed program: In case of yarn dyed order yarn lab-dip has
to be sent to the buyer for color approval. Upon confirmation, knit
down approval has to be taken from buyer where specified.
Solid dyed program: Lab-dip fabric color approval is taken from

the buyer.
Depending on the buyer bulk lot cutting shall be sent
to buyer for approval or for reference as advised.
Printed fabric Program: In case of the Printed fabric the base

fabric lab- dip is submitted to buyer and print artwork/design and
print color approval shall be taken before proceeding with the
bulk.
Fabric Package Test: These are buyer dependent and mostly

taken care by third party labs. All the tests that are required by the
buyer or the buyers SOP [Standard Operating Procedures] has to
be passed, failing which waiver has to be obtained from buyer for
the same.
Shade Band Approval: This is special requirement for all

garments dyed with pigment dyes, or topped with pigments, for
garments with enzyme washing or spray. The approval is taken by
the buyer.
Embroidery / hand work: Approval for thread color, sequence

color, bead color and quality parameters are taken from the buyer.
Accessories Approval: All trims and accessories which are

going in the garments are got to be approved by the buyer.
3.10
INTERPRETING THE TECHPAK / TECHNICAL FOLDER PROVIDED BY

THE BUYER:
The Technical Folder/Techpak is the reference for each department whenever it

comes to any information about the buyer requirements. The buyer states all his
requirements in a very precise manner which is contained in this document. The
following are the common details which are found in the Technical Folders of all
the buyers:
o
o
o
o
Size wise quantity

Color Wise Quantity
Destination wise quantity
Dispatch dates for all the lots and the quantity for the lots
Process development sheets which includeo

o
o
o
o
o
Style analysis report

Buyer
Style no.
Style description
Total order quantity
Process sequence- listing out the order of the activities to be
done i.e. cut, panel wash or garment wash, panel
print/embroidery or garment print/embroidery
Fabric detailso GSM of all the types of fabrics used in the garment
o Fabric construction
o Fiber types
o Fabric width
o Fabric/garment finish type and hand feel description
o Buyer nominated supplier (in certain cases)
o Fabric swatch
Sewing detailso Stitch SPI for all the parts of the garment
o Stitch distance for all the seams e.g. distance of the top
stitch, distance of bottom hem from the bottom
o Single needle or double needle operation for all the seams
o Stitch no.
o Gauge and bight for overlock machines
o
o
o
o
Sewing thread detailsTicket no. of threads for each operation

Thread color
Thread type i.e. construction
Nominated supplier if any
Pattern detailso Size of ready garment at all the required areas

o Size of all the patterns
o Technical drawing of the garment, with important points
mentioned in the diagram.
Accessories required in the garmento Nominated supplier if any
o Accessories like satin tapes need to undergo color fastness
tests, so the quality requirement is also mentioned.
o Position of the accessories on the garment in terms of
measurements and alignments
Trims required in the garmento Type and dimensions of all the trims e.g. length of the zipper,
material of the zipper (metal or plastic).
o Positioning of trims on the garment, mentioned in writing and
diagrammatically as well.
o Color and finish of the trim
Description of the labelso Text to be written on the labels is specified by the buyer.
o The font size and font style for the text on the labels
o The material of the various labels
o Types of labels required i.e. Wash Care Labels, size labes,
brand labels
o Positioning g of the labels on the garment with dimensions
mentioned on a diagram of the garment.
o Type of stitch used to attach labels
Finishing detailso Type of iron to be done( e.g. some garments require only a
mild touch up and the original fall of the garment is allowed
to come.
o A mention about the finishing quality (e. g. only steaming
requires that there should be no shade variation, seam /
water marks, seam impressions showing on the garment.
o Presentation labels and hangtags which are attached on the
garment before packing.
o Position of the attached hangtags and size labels on the
garment
o Final look of the packet after packing.
o AQL level to be followed while inspection in the finishing
section
Packing detailso Details regarding the type of packing material to be used
o No. of garments in each poly bag or any other kind of prepack.
o Written material on the packing material
o Size of the poly bags and the cartons
o No. of garments/pre-packs to be kept in each carton.
3.11 RECORDS AND FORMATS MAINTAINED IN THE MERCHANDISING
DEPARTMENT
S.No. FORMAT
/DOCUMENT PURPOSE OF USE
NAME
1
Sample Evaluation report
This report is maintained for all the
samples evaluated and inspected by the
merchandisers. It has the records of all

2
Internal
Card
Approval
the comments and changes suggested.

Swatch This is a general Swatch Card which is
used to attach the fabrics used for the
styles and orders after their approvals
from the buyers. There are three swath
cards from the fabric are maintained from
Sales Order Documentation
three places in the fabric roll.

The merchandisers maintain a record of
all the sales orders raised for the
procurement of all the materials for the
order. One of the most important job of
the merchandiser is to follow up the
status of the materials which have been
ordered, to ensure the timely availability
Consumption
chart
of the materials to the production.

confirmation This chart is made by taking the
consumption details from the sampling
department for all the sizes in the style of
the order. These consumption details are
obtained from the CAD markers. The
consumption is in terms of Kg. of fabric
required for all the fabric types in the
garment.
Material Requisition
This
format
is
filled
up
by
the
merchandiser and sent to the fabric

stores for requesting material for sample
development. If the material is not
available, the fabric sourcing team is
informed
6
Sampling Job Order.
the
quantity
and
quality
required.
This is a formal order raised to the
Sampling
department
instructing
the
quantity and types of samples to be

made for the styles. The tentative dates
for
sample
preparation
are
also
mentioned and the reference numbers

7
Minutes
Meeting
of
Order
for al the Technical Folders is mentioned.

Clarity The Head Merchandiser conducts an
Order Clarity Meeting. Here all the details
of the order booked are provided to the
Factory.
The
OCM
minutes
are
maintained by each merchandiser for

future
reference
in
case
of
some
discrepancies arising in between the

merchants
8
Delivery Challan (D.C.)
and
the
factory.
i.e.
Production related departments)

The merchandising delivers the samples
made to the buyers representatives. For
the same purpose, a DC is made in
which is listed the details of the order no.,
style no., no. of garments and color. This
is a formal procedure for transferring
goods from one place to another.
Garment hangtags
All the hangtags required in the garment

are maintained by the merchandiser as a
separate file. They are the ones which
come in the company for the sampling
procedure and the order is placed only
10
Inter office Memo
after their approval.

This is a common document used by
every department. In cases where some
communication needs to be made to
other
departments,
the
sheets
are
manually written and carried by the Office

11
Sampling cost sheet
Assistant.
The costs incurred while sampling is
maintained in this document.
3.12 FORMATS AND MATERIALS RECEIVED BY THE MERCHANDISING

DEPARTMENT
S.No FORMAT/MATERIAL
1
PURPOSE OF USE
Size set and pilot run The size set and pilot run reports deal with
reports.
all the points worth listing for the garment.

This includes the measurement details for all
the parameters as well as the quality tests
Tech Packs
according to the buyers requirements.

The Tech packs are the guidelines provided
by the buyer for the garment construction
and raw material sourcing. As already stated
in the details of the Technical Folder, all the
information can be obtained from this. It is
Purchase orders
provided by the buyer to the merchandiser.

Purchase orders are a formal announcement
of the order booked by the merchandiser for
the factory. This has all the details of the
order
quantity,
destination.
The
shipment
style
dates
and
numbers,
item
numbers and the Movex numbers are

4
Buyer Original Samples
mentioned by the company.

The samples which are
used
as the
reference for constructing samples by the

company are provided by the buyer. The
sourcing team also works out the fabric
details and the finish of the garment from the
5
Customer
samples.
Complaint The merchandiser maintains the complaint
Details
details for every sample and every order
Shipment details
dispatched coming under his buyer.

The dates, mode of shipment, mode of
payment,
Letter
of
Credit
details
and
destination of shipment are provided to the

7
Sampling Development file
merchandiser by the Dispatch department.

The sample department maintains this file
and sends the copies to the merchandiser
concerned.
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
Garment manufacturing is a labor intensive industry. Research has shown

that in any sewing floor, only 20-30% of time is utilized by the machine and rest
goes in manual handling. This means in order to improve productivity faster
machines will not bring significant difference, but it is the method engineering
which can bring significant benefit.
4.1. Functions of Industrial Engineering Department:
To understand the production capacity of the factory, and to draw up plans

for an appropriate target output, suitable range of divided labor and
optimum production.
To investigate the level of individual skills.
To determine the time value for each work component under the motion
study. This supports improvements and standardization.
For use as a yardstick in evaluation of the operation.
To draw up plans and make estimates for a change of product or for the
construction of new orders.
To obtain an evaluation standard for the order receiving, planning using

the time study as the basis of control.
To use the basic order for determining the unit cost manufacturing and the
wage rate.
For use as the basis for introducing a production control system.
Take note of time period required for executing the order.
To make the adequate machines available for making the style.
To study the time complexities in the garment.
Depending on the above, decide the feasibility of the manufacture of the garment.
Coordinate with the production and merchandising departments.
To develop operation bulletin (OB) for every new style.
To develop the new style requirement (NSR) sheet for the style.
4.1.1 Time study:

It is a work measurement technique for recording the times and rates of
working for the elements of a specified job carried out under specified conditions,
and for analyzing the data so as to obtain the time necessary for carrying out the
job at a defined level of performance.
After doing the time study, improvements are made on the basis of time
values and based on which gives targets to the workers.
This consists of
Breaking down of the work into minute work components.
Recording the time required to finish the work.
4.1.2 Record keeping
Daily production report
Unit wise and style wise report.
Daily finishing report.
Weekly production report.
Production summary.
Operating production chart
Efficiency chart for analysis
Attendance chart
Target charts for styles
4.2 IE Department in Factory:

The IE department in the factory is assigned the following jobs
Method Implementation in the batch.
To maintain the methods of the operation performed in the batch as
implemented by GSD.
Follow-up on low output operators. Finding out reason for low efficiency
and solving the problem to increase performance and productivity.
Off-standard & On-standard work details calculation
Maintaining Target stickers for each operation.
Issuing and maintaining gum sheets of each operator.
Finding out hourly production.
Size-wise loading and output calculation.
Generating Daily production report and style-wise efficiency report.
To conduct Time study of each operator at pre-fixed intervals.
Capacity report generation.
Create and update skill matrix of each operator & submit the same to
personnel department.
Assist in Factory planning.
4.3 Operator production sheet

Operator production sheets are maintained for each operator. Each operator is
given a gum sheet in which he/she can fill in the number of bundles and pieces
that he/she completed during that particular hour. This helps in bundle tracking,
WIP and efficiency estimation of the particular operator.
Gum sheets are issued to the batch as soon as the batch is loaded and it has to
be signed by the Supervisor and AAMT after each hour.
4.4 Target Sticker
Target sticker is prepared taking into consideration the SAM and the
operation concerned. It consists of target efficiency and target production that the
operator must achieve.
4.5 Hourly Production Report

Hourly production report is maintained by the IE department. Each
operators opening and closing WIP is maintained after each 2 hours. Thus,
production is constantly monitored for each 2 hours. WIP is also monitored and
thus operators lagging behind in certain operations and thus accumulating WIP
can be found out and preventive measures be taken.
4.6 Daily Production Report
The IE department is also supposed to maintain a daily production report
for each line. This report keeps track of pieces loaded, color and SAM,
Production and total SAM earned that day. This is maintained everyday and thus
gives a brief overview of how the factory performed on any particular day.
4.7 Style Wise Efficiency Report

Style wise production report is also maintained by the IE department. It
keeps a track of the number of pieces loaded, number of pieces produced, WIP,
SAM earned, style and factory efficiency. This is reviewed by production manager
who can thus get a crisp view of which line is lagging in production and efficiency.
4.8 Skill Matrix
In Gokaldas Images six grades are given to operators i.e. A+, A, B+, B,
C+, C,.
They are assigning following three grades on the basic of type of operations they
do. For both top and bottom garment the operators are given these three grades.
NOTE:
1. Grade A+
Almost all operations of A category & performance
5 to 6 operations of B category.
2. Grade A
Minimum of 6 to 8 operations of A category.
5 to 6 operations of B category
4.8.1 FOR TOPS:
Grade A- Operations
Grade B- Operations
Att n/b collar with pattern
Attach yoke & edge stitch yoke Run stitch neck band
sleeve
placket
(manual & folder)

& Attach main lable to yoke
stitch arrow
Set sleeve
placket
& Attach main lable to yoke
Set
Grade C- Operators
Run stitch neck band

Run stitch collar (profile)
stitch arrow
Match & run collar
Hem front placket
Hem cuff or pocket
Close collar
Attach fashion placket
Close flap at bottom
Close cuff (folder)
Run stitch collar, cuff & flaps
Locking operations
Attach
front
placket T/S collar, shoulder
Stay stitch or gathering
(kansai / DNLS)
Hem bottom (Manual)
Join shoulder (Manual &folder)
Sew pleats
Top stitch sides (FOA)
Hem side slit
Overlock small parts
Top stitch sides (DNLS)
Hem sleeve
Prepare main label &

W/C label
Attach pocket
Attach side seam

Overlock side seam & arm hole
Sew darts (manual)
4.8.2 FOR BOTTOM

Grade A- Operations
Grade B - Operations
Grade C - Operations
Attach lining to body
Attach main lable to Join waist band
Attach cargo pockets (SNLS)
yoke
Sew for front pleats Attach waist band to inner
Attach cargo pockets (DNLS)
(shapes)
Sew for back pleats
nylon
Overlock slit (front)
Attach cargo pockets (DNSB)
Side seam lock stitch
Attach side label & size
Welt pockets
Side seam overlock
lable
Overlock right fly
Top stitch upper and lower welt
Top stitch side seam
Stay stitch zipper
Attach waist band to body
Hem bottom (folder)
Stay stitch bottom
Close waist band
Hem bottom (manual)
Flap close (ready) stitch
Attach and close waist band Sew dart (knotting)
Hem pocket
(folder)
Finish waist band (Ditch stitch)
Overlock front(side)
Attach facing to pocket
J- Stitch
bag
Attach zipper to the Prepare waist band loops
Attach pockets
front
Attach zipper to the Overlock rises
Hem bottom (blind)
lining
Edge stitch waist band
Hem pocket facing
Close inseam (FOA with folder)
Below pieces
Tack waistband
Attach loops to waist Top stitch flap

band
Lock waist band edges
Draw cord prepration
Run stitch flaps

Top stitch pocket
Attach flap to front
Join back rise
5. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
Sampling is basically the process of producing some few garment pieces in order
to match the various buyer requirements such as the design features, size, style,
etc. as soon as any order is received the tech pack is handed over to the
sampling department and various samples of the product are developed in order
to get the orders confirmed from the buyer.
When the product is in the sampling stage, the buyer might suggest few
alterations or changes as per the appearance and fit of the garment and the
requirement of the style which are incorporated in the further samples and finally
a green tag sample is made and approved by the buyer which is the actual
representation of the product and handed over to the production floor as a guide
for the operators to be followed while the bulk production is going on.
Though sampling is a costly procedure but it identifies the various
problems which might be faced during the bulk production if sampling is not done.
5.1 Functions of the sampling department:

The sampling department performs the following functions:
Develops samples and size-set for given order enquiry as mentioned in

the sampling indent issued by the merchandising department.
Calculates fabric and trim consumption for the garment.
Develops and rectify patterns as per buyer requirements and comments.
Develops salesman sample, proto sample and fit samples.
Maintain records for sample development for various buyers.
Maintain sampling status and maintaining the same from time to time.
Develop embellishments and embroideries as per buyer requirement.
5.2
Process Flow:
Receives
Receivesthe
thetechpak
techpakfrom
frommerchandising
merchandising
department.
department.
Pattern
Patternmaster
masterdevelops
developsthe
thepattern
pattern
Pattern
Patternisisdigitized
digitizedand
andgrading
gradingdone
donewith
withthe
the
help
of
CAD
help of CAD
Fabric
Fabricconsumption
consumptionisiscalculated
calculatedand
and
Mini
marker
is
developed
Mini marker is developed
Proto-sample
Proto-sampleisisdeveloped
developedas
asper
perthe
thebase
base
pattern
pattern
Merchandiser gets the proto sample approved from

Merchandiser gets the proto sample approved from
the buyer and the proto sample and base patterns
the buyer and the proto sample and base patterns
are sent to the Sampling along with all the
are sent to the Sampling along with all the
alterations suggested by the buyer
alterations suggested by the buyer
Sales
Salesman
mansamples
samplesare
aredeveloped
developedand
andsent
senttoto
the
thebuyer
buyer
Pre-production
Pre-productionsamples
samplesare
aredeveloped
developedonly
onlyinin
the
base
size
with
all
the
corrections
the base size with all the corrections
Size-set is done on the production line and

five samples of each size are developed
Pilot
Pilotrun
runisisdone
doneon
onthe
theproduction
productionline
lineand
andone
one
set
of
each
size
is
developed
in
each
colour
set of each size is developed in each colour
Bulk
Bulkproduction
productionstarts
starts
TOP
TOP(Top
(TopofofProduction)
Production)sample
sampleisissent
senttotothe
the
buyer
buyer
Shipment
Shipmentsample
sampleisissent
senttotothe
thebuyer
buyer
5.3
Types of sample:
Proto-sample: - Proto-sample is made out of substitute fabric and

substitute trims. Its the first sample send to the buyer to get the idea to the
garment. It is also known as development sample. Four copies of protosamples are made:
One is send to the buyer.
One is send to Buying House.

One is send to the merchandiser or Mumbai head office.
One is kept in sampling department.
The samples are send along with the sample submit sheet. The protosample is further worked upon to get the 2 nd proto-sample according to the
buyer comments received.
Fit-sample: - These samples are made to check the fit of the garments.
Size-set sample: - All the sizes of a particular style are made and send to
the buyer. Size set samples are used for checking the grading. Five
samples of each size are made for the size-set sample.
Pre-production sample: -This is made after the approval of style to be
produced in bulk. This is made with actual fabric and in actual trims. Four
PP samples are made.
Sealer sample: -This sample is made after the pre production sample with
changes (if any) or no change and sealed so that the production can be
started. It accompanies a package which contains following reports
Fabric package test report.
Garment package test report.
Shrinkage report.
5.4 Working Procedure:
The package file is received from the merchandiser and the copies of it are
handed over to the sampling manager, CAD in charge, sampling
technician and the sampling QA in charge.
The pattern request is received from the merchandiser by the sampling

manager for the following samples:
Proto Sample
Second Proto Sample

Fit sample
PP sample
Size set sample
Sealer sample
TOP sample
Shipment Sample
The weekly plan is then generated based on the requisition received from
the merchandiser and it is handed over to the sampling coordinator, CAD
in charge, merchandiser and the sampling QA in charge.
The pattern cum sample requisition is given to the sampling coordinator by

the sampling manager for manual patterns as per the buyer requirements.
The CAD in charge receives the package file from the sampling
coordinator and after discussion with the sampling manager and the
technician the package file copy is handed over and discussed with the
concerned pattern maker.
The pattern maker after discussing with the technician makes the patterns
according the details in the package file and hand over the patterns to the
CAD in charge.
After the patterns are received by the CAD in charge, they are checked
and are handed over to the CAD operators for digitizing, grading and
adding shrinkage to the patterns.
The patterns along with the cutting plan are then handed over to the
sampling coordinator who in turn hands them over to the cutters.
The requisition is raised for the fabric and accessories by the sampling
coordinator and given to be signed by the sampling manager.
The feeding helpers do the loading as per the requisition of accessories

and fabric to the cutters and tailors
The thread consumption is prepared and given to the sampling manger by

the sampling coordinator from which the thread consumption chart is
generated. This is done using the meter. The meter is attached to the
sewing machine and the garment is stitched. The meter gives the amount
of thread consumed (in meters). They then prepare the Thread
Consumption Report. This report contains the details Type of stitch,
Stitching length, SPI, Consumption per meter. This is filled for all the
stitches in the garment.
After receiving the fabric, the QA in charge holds a meeting with all in-line
and end-line QAs before the style starts.
Cutting and stitching of samples is then started.
Measurement audit reports of in-line and end-line QAs are checked and
the final inspection report of samples is generated for the finished
samples.
The sampling manager discusses with the merchandiser for the rejected
samples and records them.
The approved samples are handed over to the merchandiser with

comments. In case of any clarification required regarding the samples the
merchandiser is contacted.
The sampling procedure taking place at the various stages of sample
development in The Gokaldas Images is as follows:

The base patterns are prepared in the head office at Tumkur Road and a
proto sample is made in the sampling division at the head office and sent to the
buyer for approval. Proto samples are usually made on the substitute fabrics and
with the trims that are available in order to develop the style. Once the buyer
approves the proto sample, a fit sample is made in order to develop the fit of the
garment, usually done on substitute fabrics and it is then sent to the centralized
sampling unit along with the base patterns.
Using the base patterns, proto samples, fit samples and the alterations as
mentioned by the buyer. As the order is confirmed and the merchandiser receives
the purchase order from the buyer, four pieces are produced in the base size
which is the actual representation of the style. All the trims and fabric used are as
per the tech-pack and all the corrections are incorporated in these samples. The
distribution of these samples is as follows:
One sample goes to the buying office from where the orders are
placed.
One sample goes to the buyer.
One sample goes to the concerned factory where production has to
take place.
Pre-production sample acts as the sealer sample which hangs on the
production floor to be used as a reference.
After the pre-production samples are approved a size-set is made on the

actual production line in which five samples in each size is produced and sent to
the buyer for approval.
After the size set pilot run is performed on the actual production line in
order to acquaint the operators with the design and all the production related
issues and difficulties are sorted out at this stage. The pilot run is performed to
develop a set of samples in each size and each color.
6. CAD DEPARTMENT
Merchandiser sends an indent to the CAD department requesting for
markers and patterns with required details. A marker is produced
considering the width, shrinkage to finally know the fabric consumption. Bulk
production markers are prepared to economize the fabric consumption.
Lectra systems is used to develop the markers and patterns.
Functions:
Make production markers as per the production plan (i.e. according to

the size ratio given by the ratio planner).
Make mini markers for consumption at the sampling stage.
Do digitizing, grading, and pattern making
Maintain record markers.
6.1 PROCESS FLOW
Receipt
Receiptofofsampling
samplingindent
indent
from
the
merchandiser
from the merchandiser
with
withtech-pack,
tech-pack,sample
sampleetc
etc
(if
any)
or
patterns
from
(if any) or patterns from
the
thepattern
patternmaster
master
Digitizing
Digitizingthe
thepatterns
patternson
on
the
digitizer
by
Lectra
the digitizer by Lectra
Systems
Systems
Making
Makingthe
thepatterns
patternson
on
Modaris
(Lectra
Systems
Modaris (Lectra Systems
software
softwarefor
forpattern
pattern
development.
development.
Grading
Gradingthe
thepatterns
patterns
according
accordingto
tothe
thedesired
desired
sizes
in
accordance
sizes in accordancewith
with
the
thespecs.
specs.
Development
Developmentofofmini
mini
markers
for
fabric
markers for fabric
consumption
consumption(sent
(sentto
to
merchandiser
for
costing).
merchandiser for costing).
Development
Developmentofofproduction
production
markers
to
be
issued
markers to be issuedto
to
cutting
cuttingdepartment.(these
department.(these
are
arechecked
checkedby
bythe
thepattern
pattern
master
masterininterms
termsofofright
right
grading
etc.).
grading etc.).
7. TRIMS STORE
7.1 FUNCTIONS
Receive the accessories from supplier (Domestic/International) and to

store.
Maintain basic stock and maintain smooth flow of material.
To check the quality as per standard and quantity received from the
supplier.
Rational use of accessories and accountability for the authentic use.
Coordinate with different departments for the accessories.
Coordinate with supplier, Merchandiser, and Purchase department.
Keep the dead stock maintain, if accessories having Buyer/brand name

then destroying it.
7.2 Units for Measurement of Accessories:
Name
Buttons
Label
Zipper
Tassel
Card board
Carton
Bar code sticker
Hanger
Elastic
Velcro
Thread
Interlining
Fusing
Packing tape
Poly bag
Draw board
Paper (drawing sheet for pattern)
7.3 Process Flow
Unit
Per gross
Per piece
Per piece
Per piece
Per piece
Per piece
Per piece
Per piece
Per meter
Per meter
Per meter
Per meter
Per meter/Yard
Per roll
Per Kg.
Per kg.
Per Rim
TRIMS
TRIMSRECEIVED
RECEIVED
STORAGE OF INCOMING GOODS

STORAGE OF INCOMING GOODS
PHYSICAL VERIFICATION OF
PHYSICAL VERIFICATION OF
TRIMS
TRIMS
10%
10%QUALITY
QUALITYAUDIT
AUDIT
100%INSPECTION IF AUDIT FAILS

100%INSPECTION IF AUDIT FAILS
STORAGE OF TRIMS IN
STORAGE OF TRIMS IN
APPROPRIATE
APPROPRIATERACKS
RACKS
ISSUE
ISSUETO
TOBATCHES
BATCHES
7.4 Standard Operating Procedure

All the Trims like, Zippers, Buttons, Snaps, various types of Labels, Threads,
Tapes, Draw cords, Elastics, D Rings are to be checked at the receiving point
for Quantity & Quality. This has to be done O.C. # / P.O. # wise and item wise.
Allot area for Incoming Goods and mark on the Rack concerned.
Incoming goods to be stored here.
Allot area for Inspected O.K. Goods and mark on the Rack concerned.
All inspected & accepted goods to be stored here.
Allot area for Rejected goods (Inspection / Audit failed) to be stored here
and to be disposed off as per instructions.
Allot area for Inspection and mark as Inspection Area. Provide Table
with White Laminate and light illumination of minimum 1200 lux.
Allot area for Return to Supplier. In case of excess material receipt, the
excess material to be returned to supplier. Only 5 % excess material than
ordered should be accepted. The remaining to be returned to supplier. In
case, if excess material received free of cost, this should be accounted
separately as per instructions. )
Display approved Trim Cards, AQL chart, Other Instructions etc in the
Display Board provided.
All incoming Trims must be - 10 % (or AQL 2.5 or as specified) (Random
selection) - checked. If the items fail during Audit, 100 % of the items to
be audited.
Results to be recorded in the concerned Formats and
circulated to the specified staff for necessary action.
7.5 Trims Inspection:

1. Quantity check: Compare the Receipt quantity with the Order quantity and
ensure that is O.K. If there is any deviation, please take it up with the
concerned for necessary action.
2. Visual check: Check the items for shade, color, Type, Style, write up etc.,
as per Specification sheet. If required, wash the appropriate Trims as per
specification to see that shade variation, bleeding do not take place. In
case of deviation, take it up with the concerned for necessary action.
3. Measurement check: Check the items for measurement to ensure they
confirm to specification.
4. After ensuring that everything is O.K., make the Trim Card in specified
sets and get it approved by concerned Marketing Staff and issue it to the
concerned.
5. Issue the materials to the Factory concerned as per O.C. / P.O. copy and
as specified along with Trim Card.
7.6 Trims Store In the Factory:

Trims and Accessories Stores at Factories have to make the Quantity check for
all the Items they receive from the Main - Trims & Accessories Stores. Copies of
the Test results are to be received from the Main Stores along with the
consignment for reference. In case, the Tests are not conducted at the Mains
stores, Factory should organize for all the necessary tests and keep the records
for reference.
First of all, the trims store in-charge receives the PO copy. This PO copy
contains various details such as the Sample Date, Prototype Sample,
Order chart, RMR.
The trim store in-charge takes out only the Raw Material Status Report
(RMR). This report gives the details as to the which trims are to be
received, the consumption per garment, the required qty, the qty ordered,
the qty received and the balance left to receive.
There are 2 parts to the trims store.
Stitching Part
Packing Part
The stitching part is executed first. A copy of the RMR is firstly sent to main
stores. The main trim store then sends the trims as per the ordered
quantity with a Delivery Challan.
When the trims are received, the unit checks them and makes an Inward
Challan. 3% extra is always added as for wastage considerations.
The trims store head maintains a Daily Status Report of the trims that are
issued from the main store and the balance left yet to receive. This is
maintained for the internal reference of the trims store.
The inspection of the trims and accessories is done in the main unit itself.
Hence, when the trims are received, they are only stored and issued to the
production at the trims store.
However, for buttons counting is done. Inspection is done in case of

Labels and Shrinkage test for Elastic. Only 1 roll or 1 box in the whole
quantity of the labels received is inspected.
Out of the 1 roll or 1 box, 100 labels are inspected for defects or damages.
If 4 defects are found, it is accepted. If 5 or more defects are

found, then another 100 are checked.
In this 100 again if 4 defects are found, it is accepted. If 5 or

more than 5 defects are found, then the entire lot is rejected.
In case of 100 labels,
40 defective are acceptable.
50 are unacceptable.
And 40-50 are in the decision making process.

The rejected in then sent back to the main store. If the trims are
accepted they are then issued t the production line.
There are many types of labels that are used in the production:
Main Label has the buyers name.
Content Label contains the content of the fabric.
Size Label size of the garment is specified
Tab Label has the logo of the buyer.
ID/Wash care Label has the wash care instructions for the
garment
For Elastic, the shrinkage test is carried out by the trims store:
In this they measure 1m of the elastic and mark it.
This elastic is then dipped in water for 15-20 mins.
It is then dried naturally.
Then the elastic are measured again.
Then the shrinkage is calculated using the formula:

Shrinkage (%) = [After wash Before wash)/before wash] *100
The report is made and sent to the merchandiser.
The trim store maintains a trim chart. In this chart following

details are present
Fabric swatch
Matching thread for the fabric
-
fabric color
fabric code
Button
Button matching thread
This chart goes to the merchandiser for the approval. The merchandiser
signs the chart and sends back. The shades of the buttons (if present) are
then approved from the buyer and signed.
It should be not known that the buttons are of different shades (in case
they are accepted) and hence, they are stuck to the chart at the backside.
The rest of the trims are not inspected. After this inspection, a meeting is
held between the trim store head, Industrial Engineer Department head,
Production coordinator and the cutting department head.
In this meeting it is decide as to which color and style has to be cut first for
production. This is decided on the trims that are received. As to for which
style and color the trims are available for production.
After the meeting is over, the production starts. The cutting section then
sends a Slip. This slip contains the details Cut no, Size, Sr no, Lot no,
Qty, Shrinkage, Shade.
This is taken by the feeding helper who maintains a register called the
Cutting Book. All the details of the slip are copied into this book, except the
Shrinkage. The helper also fills in the time.
The store then receives the Requisition Slip which contains the details
material, Qty indent (required), qty issued and the dept.
The trims and accessories are then issued to the required dept as per the
required qty.
The trim store head also maintains a Stock Ledger.
As soon as the materials are received, the left side of the ledger is
filled up. Details Date, Received from, DC No, PO No, IC No,
Total receipts
As soon as the materials are issued to the lines, the right side of the
ledger is filled up. Details Date, Issued to (line no), Regd Sr No,
No of Pcs supplied, Balance left.
After every 2-3 days the stocks are checked.
The trims store also maintains Bin Card. The bin card contains the details of the
trims that are being stored in the rack, how much is issued and the balance.
Details Date, Received Qty, Date, Line no., issued qty, Balance.
8. FABRIC STORE
Gokaldas Images has a centralized main fabric store located at Tumkur Road. All
fabric and interlining is received by the main fabric store and distributed further to
various units according to required quantity. All the units have fabric sub stores
located in the unit itself.
The fabric main store consists of a fabric in charge, godown in charge, fabric
checker, fabric QC, QA executive, stores assistant, computer operator, DTP
operator and fabric assistants.
8.1 Functions of Fabric Store:

The basic functions of the fabric store are:
Storage and Segregation of Fabric for production.
Storage of dead stock.
Maintain basic stock.
Co-ordinate fabric flow between cutting, processing, and audit department.
Coordination between the Suppliers, Fabric processing, audit and cutting

Department.
Maintain account and documents in order to ensure regular flow of fabric

and no shortage.
Report maintained in the fabric department.
Maintain inspection reports.
Maintain inwards/outwards D.C.
Approval reports about shade variation, width etc.
Lab reports as inspection, GSM value, fastness, shrinkage etc
Fabric status file
8.2 Physical Testing & Inspection:

Fabric is inspected by using a 4 point system. It is a projection of total defects
based on the total number of defects found during inspection of a sample as a
basis for acceptance/rejection criteria. In this point inspection system penalty
points are assigned base on the standard fault. For every type of fault colored
stickers are put, to identify serious defects in the subsequent process.
8.3 Four point Inspection systems:

Fault Size
0 to 3 inches
3 to 6 inches
6 to 9 inches
9 & above
Point Assigned
1
2
3
4
Sticker color
Yellow
Green
Blue
Red
Acceptance/rejection of fabric:
Penalty points found per 100 meter
40 points in power loom fabric
30 points in mill-made and imported fabric
40 60 points in power-loom fabric
More than 30 points in mill-made & in imported fabric
More than 60 points in power-loom fabric
Action
Accept the lot
Accept the lot
Substandard lot
Rejection of lot
Rejection of lot
8.4 Common Fabric Defects Found Are:

Weaving Defects:
Missing picks
End out,
Mixed filling
Mixed ends
Dropped pick
Slubs
Yarn distortion
Weft bar
Pattern fault
Dobby faults
Stop marks
Smash
Holes, etc.
Dyeing/printing/finishing Defects:
Bowing
Color Bleeding
Puckering
Stains
Skewed or biased
Selvedge variation
Scrimp etc.
8.5 Main Fabric Store:
Check for the variations in the fabric.
Physical testing for defects, shades and width variations.
Approval, rejection or sub standardization of fabric lot.
Classification of fabric in various shades
Coordination with store, vendor, merchandiser and Fabric Processing

Departments.
Preparation of swatches mentioning shades and their respective quantity.
The Fabric Audit dept. supplies the fabric for shrinkage check.
The fabric (1 bit) =60*60 cm. Then on that they mark 50*50 send it to
washing dept. in washing the real shrinkage measure. An Audit check list
is maintained in this section in which all the details of fabric flow right from
delivery to inspection to dispatch to various units is recorded. Fabric in
charge, QAE and Auditor are accountable for upholding of this check list.
The fabric is issued, stored and inspected in the main stores. The fabric is
issued from here to all the other GI units.
First of all the merchandiser sends the Purchase order (PO) sheet to the
fabric sub store head. The required number of pieces (garments) is given
in the sheet.
After this the Fabric Cutting Chart is received from the Cutting section
head. In this chart the meters of fabric required by the cutting room is
given.
After this the sub store in-charge receives the Fabric Width and Shade
Report. Thus according to the various shades, the fabrics are separated
shade wise.
Then the merchandiser sends the Lab Test Report and Shrinkage Report.
This contains the results of the tests that are carried out in the unit lab.
Next the in-charge receives the Fabric Quality Inspection Summary. This
contains the inspection details of the fabric. This report also shows the
status of the fabric.
The in-charge then receives the Mini Marker from the merchandiser. This
is also called the YY Sheet. This sheet contains the quantity of fabric
required per garment (yy = meters/garment).
Based on this the in-charge prepares a chart. This chart contains the fabric
details (Swatch, Color, Order Quantity and the quantity required). The incharge calculates the quantity of fabric required after adding the waste
percentage.
2 % is added as a waste percentage for fabric. 3 % is added for the

rejection of garments. Hence, a total of 5 % of the order quantity is added.
This is the total quantity of the fabric required to be ordered from the main
stores.
This chart is sent to the merchandiser and the required quantity of the
fabric is ordered.
8.6 Standard Operating Procedures:

The stores should have the following designated area: Allot area for Incoming Goods and mark on the Rack concerned.
Allot area for Return to Supplier. In case of excess material receipt, the
excess material to be returned to supplier. Only 5 % excess material than
ordered should be accepted. The remaining to be returned to supplier.
(Incase, if excess material received free of cost, this should be accounted
separately as per instructions.)
Allot area for Inspection and mark as Inspection Area. Provide Fabric
Inspection Machine or Table with White Laminate and light illumination of
minimum 1200 lux.
8.7 Fabric Receipt:

On receipt of Fabric in Ware house, the Fabric had to be checked against the
P.O. #. / O.C. #. (Purchase order No. or Order confirmation No.) to ensure that it
is the right item with right quantity as compared to order quantity, number of
Rolls / Bales , Color etc. These items are to be stored separately in specified
racks after entering these items in the Stage software and prepare necessary
Goods Receipt Note.
Inform shortages / Excess quantity received to Fabric Department and the
Supplier concerned for necessary action. If the supply exceeds 105 % of the
order quantity, organize to return the excess quantity to the Supplier.
8.8 Fabric Inspection - 4 Point system:

The Fabric received are to be checked using 4 Point system by using the
Fabric checking machine or Table. As far as possible avoid use of Tables for
checking. Display the various types of defects for easy reference of the Checker.
The acceptance criteria for various fabrics like Mill made , Power Loom and
Hand Loom vary and hence use the right criteria ( points ) as specified by
Buyer / Fabric Department. A minimum of 10 % of the Rolls (Random selection)
are to be checked. If the defect level exceeds the allowed limit, 100 % of the
Rolls may be inspected after getting approval from concerned.
Display Fabric defect standards (clearly marked Acceptable and Not
Acceptable) and the criteria points per sq. yard / meters for passing the rolls /
bales as accepted or rejected.
Utilize SPC technique for Inspection of Fabric and prepare U chart for all the
lots inspected. Display the defects like, Bowing CSV, End to end shade
variation, Defect Standards etc and Acceptable and Not Acceptable.
In case, the Fabric rolls / bales gets rejected ( for reasons of defects, shade
variation, shrinkage variation more than allowed limits ) they are to be stored in
the specified rack marked Rejected Items. Follow the procedure, laid out for
returning the rejected items to the Supplier.
Raise the Goods Inspection Note for the passed items as specified. Store the
Fabric with proper Identification Tag (containing details like O.C. No./ P.O. No.,
date of receipt, Delivery note no., quantity received, number of rolls / bales,
Shade details , Type of Fabric, Supplier details etc.).
Office records should
record the Rack number, where the item is stored for easy trace ability.. Single
item should be kept in single rack location and never mix up fabrics of different
O.C.s / P.O.s.
Prepare Report in specified format and send it to the concerned (like Fabric
Department, Marketing Department etc.). In case of deviation / short supply,
highlight it, to take necessary action.
Samples for Shade Band:
Cut approximately 7 inches x 3 inches samples from each roll. Write the Roll no./
Bale no. in each sample along with O.C. No./ P.O. No., supplier, date of receipt ,
width etc. Mark grain direction. Make shade band of the Rolls received and
accepted. Similarly make 4 to 6 sets of shade Bands for distribution as specified
to Marketing and Factories. Marketing department will take it up with the Fabric
Manager / Buyers Representative and provide the shade category (like shade A,
shade B etc). Use Light Box with specified Light for shade segregation.
If any center to selvedge shade variation problem occurs, such rolls are
marked separately and should be advised to the CAD and Cutting section for
revised Pattern Layout.
8.9 Samples for Laboratory Testing:

Cut 1 meter length of fabric from each lot, mark Grain direction and sent it to
Laboratory to conduct the following test.
1. Shrinkage Test.
2. Color Fastness test.
3. Rubbing Test - Dry & Wet.
4. Count & Construction.
Record the Test results and file the Test certificate. Issue one copy of Test
certificates to Marketing department for their action.
8.10 Storing and Issue to Factories:
Based on the above information from Lab and Marketing, it is preferable to
segregate the Rolls / Bales in various Shades and Group Shrinkage percentage
wise and store them in the specified Racks with proper Identification Tag. This
procedure is useful to avoid mix-up of various shades and shrinkage bands. The
stores register should contain all the relevant details along with the Rack no,
(where it is stored).
While issuing to Production, issue as per shade band and shrinkage segregation
wise. Issue the Shade band along with the materials to Factories.
8.11 Maintenance of Machines:

All machines used in the Fabric ware house like, Fabric Inspection machine etc
should carry Maintenance card and Preventive Maintenance card duly filled
in.
9. FABRIC STORE AT FACTORIES:

9.1 Process Flow
FABRIC RECEIVED FROM H/O
FABRIC INSPECTION
O.K. FABRIC
DEFECTIVE FABRIC
STORAGE OF FABRIC
REJECTED GOODS
RACK
FABRIC RELAXATION
RETURN BACK TO
H/O
FABRIC ROLL
SEGREGGATION
PREPARATION OF
CUTTABLE RATIO
ISSUE TO CUTTING
SECTION
9.2 Operating Procedure:
The stores should have the following designated area: Allot area for Incoming Goods and mark on the Rack concerned.
Allot area for Inspection and mark as Inspection Area. Provide Fabric
Inspection Machine or Table with White Laminate and light illumination of
minimum 1200 lux. Whenever the lighting level decrease, change the
Tube light bulbs.
9.2 Fabric Receipt:
Check & compare the Fabric quality & quantity received with Delivery Note
against each O.C. #. / P.O. #.
and inform the deviations to the concerned.
Record the receipt along with storage location. Check the actual rolls / bales with
the Shade band card came along with the Fabric. If required prepare Shade
band card for the with details of roll number, length, shade number and issue it
to Cutting section and other sections concerned for their reference. Store the
material in Racks with proper Identification Tag as mentioned earlier. The Fabric
receipt register to have the location of the Rack, where the fabric is stored.
Under no circumstance, the Fabric should be kept on Floor.
The following Test / Inspection
procedure to be followed - O.C / P.O. wise - for
the Fabric Rolls / Bales received for easy trace ability.
7.3 Fabric Inspection:

If the Fabric already under went 4-point inspection system in Fabric Ware house,
collect and keep the copy of Inspection report & copy of Test results for all the
Rolls / Bales received. If Fabric is not inspected using 4 point system, organize
for Inspection as mentioned earlier. Display the type of defect and their
acceptance level wherever required for each and every O.C / P.O. Inform the Test
results of the Fabric received to all concerned for necessary action. Display
Fabric defect standards (clearly marked Acceptable and Not Acceptable)
7.4 Shrinkage Test - (Rigid Fabric Wash Program)
1. Shrinkage Test to be conducted for 10 % (Random selection) of the Rolls /
Bales (unless otherwise specified).
2. Cut swatches from the Rolls / Bales received as specified to size 28
inches x 28 inches. It is preferable to use Metal Template # 1, for cutting
the swatches.
3. Identify the Face side and back side. Mark the Roll #, O.C. / P.O. # date
received on the back side of the swatch. Mark
4. Make 25 inches square
Metal Template # 2.
Mark horizontally and
vertically on the sides of the square. The length of lines may be 2 inches
more or less at the center of the sides. This means the distance between
horizontal lines, and the distance between verticals should be equal to 25
inches.
5. Bartack on the lines which are at 25 x 25.
6. Over lock the edges of the swatch panels.
7. Wash the Swatch panel as per the Wash Standard given in the
Technical Specification manual or specified by Marketing Department /
Buyer.
8. Using Iron Box, iron lightly without using steam to make the washed
swatch flat.
9. Measure the distance between the Horizontal and Vertical Bartacks using
Stainless steel scale and record the reading.
10. Calculate the Washing shrinkage percentage both horizontally and
vertically (i.e. on warp side and weft side) and record it for each and every
swatch. Compile the Roll / Bale wise shrinkage in the prescribed format.
Record this information in each Identification Tags in each Roll (along with
shade category).
11. Check the Washing shrinkage percentage Range. If the Range is more
than 1.5 % , the Shrinkage Test to be conducted for all the Rolls / Bales
received ( i.e. 100% of rolls )
12. Check again the Washing Shrinkage percentage. For each 1.5 % step of
absolute shrinkage , Multiple Markers to be prepared. ( for example , for
absolute Shrinkage % range of 3.0 % to 4.5 % - Marker / Pattern # 1 ,
and for shrinkage of 4.5 % to 6 % - Marker / Pattern # 2- like that ).
Segregate and store the Fabric as per their Shrinkage - Marker / Pattern
range ( steps of 1.5% ).
13. Organize with Pattern Department for the preparation of Multiple Markers
based on Shrinkage level. The Marker / Pattern should contain Shrinkage
range for which they are prepared along with other information.
14. Color codifies the range of Shrinkage (steps of 1.5 %) for easy tractability
during the subsequent process. This information should be available in
the respective Patterns and Specification sheet .
Note: In case the shrinkage range happens to be within 1.5 %, against Pattern #,
put (dash - indicating that there is only one Marker / Pattern for
the P.O.)
9.5 Shade segregation for non- wash fabric: (Stretch & Rigid)
1. Cut swatches from all the Rolls / Bales received as specified to size 30
cms x 30 cms. It is preferable to use Metal Template for cutting the
swatches.
received on the back side of the swatch.
3. Using Light box with specified Light, segregate the swatches to visible
shade Category. .
4. Fabric Manager segregates the Rolls / Bales as
Shade category as
A, B, C etc based on the shade of each Roll / Bale ( may be in

consultation with Marketing department / Buyers representative ).
5. Group the Rolls / Bales as shade category of A, B, C etc. Color code
each shade category. Write the shade category in the Identification Tags
on each roll / bale and color code it. The swatch card issued to Cutting
section, Sewing section,
Finishing section,
Packing section and Q.A.
Department should also contain this color codification ( along with

Shrinkage % ).
6. Cutting section: - Cut the Rolls / Bales shade wise as per the required
Ratio (of sizes during final packing). Cuttable ratio and quantity should be
informed to Marketing, Q.A. department and Buyers representative in
advance for approval.
7. Cutting section: - Mention shade category (A, B, C etc) on the Cut
Panels. Color code the shade category during Bundling.
8. Sewing section: - Identification Tag used in Sewing section should have
the shade category mentioned in it for trace ability purpose.
9. Packing section: - Packing should be done in such a way that one Carton
should contain only one shade category of Garments.
Note 1: In case , there is no shade variation , against Shade # , put ( dash

- indicating that there is only one Shade for the O.C / P.O.).
Note 2: Shrinkage test to be done for 10 % of the Pocketing fabric.
7.6 Shade segregated for wash program: (Stretch & Rigid)

1. Cut swatches from all the Rolls / Bales received as specified to size 30
cms x 30 cms.
It is preferable to use Metal Template for cutting the
swatches.
3. In case of Denim Fabric, join all the swatches by over lock to make a
Blanket.
4. Wash the Swatch Blanket as per specified wash program.
5. Fabric Manager segregates the Rolls / Bales as
Shade category as A,
B, C etc based on the shade of each Roll / Bale by viewing under Light
Box with specified Lamp.
6. Group the Rolls / Bales as shade category of A, B, C etc. Color code
each shade category. Write the shade category in the Identification Tags
on each roll / bale and color code it. The swatch card issued to Cutting
section should also contain this color codification (along with Shrinkage
%).
7. Cutting section: - Cut the Rolls / Bales shade wise as per the required
Ratio (of sizes during final packing).
8. Cutting section: - Mention shade category (A, B, C etc) on the Cut
Panels. Color code the shade category during Bundling.
9. Sewing section: - Identification Tag used in sewing section should have the
shade category mentioned in it for trace ability purpose.
10. Segregate Garments shade wise, bundle it separately, before dispatching
to Laundry to undergo specified wash program. (Mention wash program in
Identification Tag along with other information like O.C./ P.O.# etc.).
11. Washing Plant: - Wash Garment shade wise with different Recipes
(developed already) to bring all shades to one common standard shade.
12. Packing section: - Packing should be done in such a way that one Carton
should contain only one shade category of Garments.
13. The shade band cards should be available with Cutting, Sewing, Finishing,
Packing, Q.A. Department, Marketing and Buyers representative.
Note: In case , there is no shade variation , against Shade # , put ( dash indicating that there is only one Shade for the O.C / P.O.)
9.7 IRONING SHRINKAGE TEST FOR RIGID FABRIC:

1. Shrinkage Test to be conducted for 10 % (Random selection) of the Rolls /
Bales (unless otherwise specified).
2. Cut swatches from the Rolls / Bales received as specified to size 28
inches x 28 inches. It is preferable to use Metal Template # 1, for cutting
the swatches.
4. Make 25 inches square
Metal Template # 2. Mark horizontally and
vertically on the sides of the square. The length of lines may be 2 inches
more or less at the center of the sides. This means the distance between
horizontal lines, and the distance between verticals should be equal to 25
inches.
5. Bartack on the lines which are at 25 x 25.
6. Over lock the edges of the swatch panels.
7. Iron the Fabric Swatch as per the specified Ironing Standard .
8. Measure the distance between the Horizontal and Vertical Bartacks using
Stainless steel scale and record the reading.
9. Calculate the Ironing shrinkage percentage both horizontally and vertically

(i.e. on warp side and weft side) and record it for each and every swatch.
Compile the Roll / Bale wise shrinkage in the prescribed format. Record
this information in each Identification Tags in each Roll (along with shade
category etc.)
10. Check the Iron shrinkage percentage Range. If the Range is more than
1.5 % , the Shrinkage Test to be conducted for all the Rolls / Bales
received ( i.e. 100% of rolls )
11. Check again the Ironing Shrinkage percentage. For each 1.5 % step of
absolute shrinkage, Multiple Markers to be prepared. (for example, for
absolute Shrinkage % range of 0.0 % to 1.5 % - Marker / Pattern #I 1 ,
and for shrinkage of 1.5 % to 4.5 % - Marker / Pattern # I 2- like that here I represent pattern accounting for Iron Shrinkage ). Segregate and
store the Fabric as per their Ironing Shrinkage - Marker / Pattern range
(steps of 1.5%).
12. Organize with Pattern Department for the preparation of Multiple Markers
based on Shrinkage level. The Marker / Pattern should contain Shrinkage
range for which they are prepared along with other information.
13. Color codifies the range of Shrinkage (steps of 1.5 %) for easy tractability
during the subsequent process. This information should be available in
the respective Patterns and Specification sheet .
Note:
In case the Iron shrinkage range happen to be within 1.5 %, against
Pattern # , put ( dash - indicating that there is only one Marker / Pattern for
the P.O.). Rarely ironing shrinkage exceeds 1.5 %.
10. CUTTING DEPARTMENT

The first stage in the manufacture of garment is the cutting of the material into
the necessary pattern shapes. This is the place where the raw material enters the
production chain. This is the place where most critical elements of cost dance to
the music of production. This is the Cutting Room. And, the aim is process
optimization control wastage. Increase efficiency wastage in the cutting room
happens in the form of uncontrolled end wastage, unscientific splicing, improper
marker and operator inefficiency. Bottlenecks increase the throughput time, which
is a significant loss on the critical time. Cutting is the primary level of activity in
the production process. Efficiency of entire unit can depends on the cutting
section.
A good as well as a bad garment can be associated with the cutting
section. The problem could be curbed and corrected at the first stage before
reaching the sewing section. Cutting production starts with the receipt of raw
materials /fabric and then the actual conversion of raw materials to various
shapes on the basis of marker drawn. The cut parts are bundled on the basis of
color, size, style etc. cutting section hence is the backbone of the unit and that is
why this section needs to be taken well care of.
Points to be considered:
Check for the presence of master pattern before commencing the bulk
cutting.
All the patterns received by the factory should be thoroughly checked for
notches, seam allowances, and alignment with other panels
All markers made for cutting should be either duplicate at the factory or by
using multiple carbons
Each pattern should have a grain line marking
10.1 Process Flow:

MARKER
MARKERPLANNING
PLANNING
MARKER
MARKERMAKING
MAKING
MARKER
MARKERCHECKING
CHECKING
FABRIC REQUISITION & RECEIVAL

FABRIC REQUISITION & RECEIVAL
LAYING
LAYING
QUALITY
QUALITYAUDIT
AUDIT
LAY
LAYRELAXATION
RELAXATION
MANUAL
MANUALMARKING
MARKING
NAMING
NAMINGOF
OFPANELS
PANELS
CUTTING
CUTTING
QUALITY
QUALITYAUDIT
AUDIT
SOBAR
SOBARNUMBERING
NUMBERING
FUSING
FUSING(IF
(IFNECESSARY)
NECESSARY)
100%
100%PARTS
PARTSCHECKING
CHECKING
PARTS
PARTSREPLACEMENT
REPLACEMENT
BUNDLING
BUNDLING
CUT
CUTPART
PARTSTORAGE
STORAGE
ISSUE
ISSUETO
TOBATCHES
BATCHES
10.2 Functions:
To make the cut order plan for all type of fabrics i.e. shell, lining, interlining
according to the PO
Getting the markers made from the CAD
Checking the patterns with the actual patterns
Draw manual markers
Getting the fabric issued from the stores according to the cut order plan
Laying the fabric
Meeting the requirement of the sewing department by providing them with

the cut panels on the right time
Ticketing and bundling of the cut panels
Returning the remnant roll to the stores
Maintaining the records
Checking the quality of the cut panels
The work for cutting department starts right from the point of order confirmation.
The CAD department prepares the marker length using the pattern and the
sample prepared by the Sampling Department. It also makes estimation for the
consumption of the fabric for that particular order. The results then communicated
to merchandiser.
Once the order gets confirmed for bulk production then first they cut the garment
component for the pilot run. Once it is over then the Cutting, The IED, Sewing,
and Planning Department sits together to decide the no. of pieces to be cut and
supplied in advance, in accordance with the productivity derived for that style
from the pilot run.
The cutting department, 1 or 2 days in advance from the cutting date procures
the fabric then the fabric issued to the spreader is properly laid according to the
specified marker length and width. The number of piles depends upon the type of
Fabric, its thickness, cutting method and the desired height of lay. The no. of plies
also depends on type of fabric and weight.
After the fabric is laid QC checks the lay for the defects like Leaning, alignment,
Uneven Tension, Narrow goods, and other fabric defects. Then the marker is
spread on the top of the lay. Stickers including all the details as PO no, cut no,
style no, part name, part number and sizes is affixed on the top of the lay of all
individual parts. Before cutting the last inspection of lay has been done to check
that the marker is coming well in the lays width and length so it can properly cut.
Cutting room is one of the core areas in any garment organization. As a unit
cutting room has a greater effect on excessive manufacturing cost than any other
department concerned with the actual production of garments.
10.3 Documents and reports maintained in the cutting section:

1. Cutting chart
2. Mini marker
3. Fabric requisition slip
4. Table plan
5. Minusing register
6. Lay slip
7. Lay order report
8. Spreading quality report
9. Cutting quality report
10. Hourly report of numbering
11. Hourly report of fusing
12. Re-cutting register
13. Hourly report of sorting and bundling
14. Cut parts issue register
15. Parts bank (cut panels)
16. Fabric completion report
10.4 SORTING AND BUNDLING:

The role of Sorting Department in the Factory is to coordinate and facilitate
production in the Sewing Department. After cutting sorting takes place where
numbered stickers are put on all parts of the garment according to the lays i.e. all
cut parts from one Lay are given one number. Sorting Department is labor
intensive since the work involves selection and bundling requires human
discretion.
The process is bundling where all cut parts are made in to bundles. If Fusing is
required in some parts (as collar, Neckband, placket, and cuff) it takes place
before bundling but after Sorting.
10.5 Operating Procedures:

Relaxation of Stretch Fabric:
1. Unwind fabric from Roll and lay on Table / Flat area in concentric folds. It
is preferable to stager the folds (for Denim rolls it is a must). Allow for 24
hours of relaxation. The Lay should not touch any other item and nothing
should be kept on the lay which may prevent normal relaxation. The idea
is to see that, stretch occurred during the time of converting into Roll
form, returns to its normal condition. Generally the Rolls are wound in
tight condition to save volume & space.
2. Attach the Relaxation History Tag to each and every roll that is relaxed
indicating the O.C. / P.O. #, Type of Fabric, Length & width of roll, Date &
starting time of relation, Date and ending time of relaxation etc.
3. After allowing for 24 hour relaxation, the roll is ready for Laying &
Spreading. Enter the Actual Date and ending time of relaxation in the Tag.
4. Lay and spread the Fabric as per Lay Slip and specification.
5. Allow a minimum of 3 to 6 hours in the Spread condition as Lay
Relaxation before any other operation takes place.
6. Check for spreading quality.
Perform the subsequent operations like
Mark / lay C.A.D. Marker etc., as usual.
10.6 Fusing Section:

1. Cut Fabric Swatch with Square Template of size 12 inches x 12 inches.
2. Get the specified Interlining and cut it to size.
3. Fuse the Fabric and Interlining with specified Temperature, Pressure, and
Time.
4. Allow for relation of the Fusing.
5. Measure the size and find out the Fusing Shrinkage and record it. Inform
to concerned people like Patter section for necessary action. Check for
Shade variation if any due to Fusing. If you observe any shade variation,
take it up with the concerned for necessary corrective action.
6. Wash the Swatch as per wash program standard or as specified.
7. Check the Fusing for fusing defects like Peel off, Bubbles etc. Inform the
deviations / defects if any to the concerned for necessary corrective action.
8. Display the Swatch, Interning, and Fused swatch in the Board.
Note: All the reference cards should be displayed in the concerned Display
Boards and Files should be available in the concerned places.
10.7 Maintenance of Machines:

All machines used in the Cutting section like, Spreading machine, Cutting
machine, Band Knife, Fusing machine etc should carry Maintenance card and
Preventive Maintenance card duly filled in.
General Points to be observed:
The following points to be taken care of in the Cutting section: Display SOPs in English and Local language.
Display approved Garment: In case of critical styles with specific line
placements, required layout of parts to be highlighted and displayed for
easy reference and access to all.
Fabric and Management Report: To be recorded & displayed against
each O.C. / P.O. (a) all Fabric status details style / color wise, (b)
Shade swatches, color standards duly approved , (c) Parts replacement
% style wise.
Cutting CAD Marker: - All Markers to be generated by CAD. Authenticity of
the same is being confirmed by Cutting Room Auditor. Markers to be color
coded in case of Multiple Pattern usage (due to variation in shrinkage).
Bar Numbering: - All panels to be numbered using Bar Stickers. Color

code So Baring in case of multiple pattern usage.
Storage of Cut parts: - Use Flat racks for storing cut parts. Mobile cut
parts storage also to be use. Use polythene bags to prevent dust and
stains.
Quality control: - Defined Quality control procedure in practice and record
to be available.
Notches on Patterns: - Process Audit to be done by Department Auditor.
Cut Panel Audit :- Cutting section QA to audit all cut parts, top, middle and
bottom with the original pattern and record findings and initiate corrective
action as required.
Cut Panel Inspection: -
Cut panel
inspection
to be conducted in a
separate area in the department. The defect standards to be displayed at

this area, style wise acceptable, not acceptable clearly marked &
displayed separately. Replacement of defective parts to take place from
the same rolls. Record of % replacement of parts to be maintained with
clear record for shade and shrinkage category.
Fabric Laying / Relaxation :- Relaxation / Lay start / Lay end / Cutting
start time to be record in case of stretch fabric
Fabric Laying / Spreading: - Fabric laying / spreading is to be audited and
recorded.
Fusing setting requirement: - Fusible lining compatibility reports confirming
the Temperature / Pressure / Time to be displayed along with sample.
Machine Maintenance record to be displayed.
Fusing Records: - Temperature setting, bonding strength to be audited and
recorded 4 times per day on fixed times. The first tests to start at the start
of the fusing followed at 2 Hours intervals. The days record to be available
on display.
It is preferable to cover all the Fabric Swatches with transparent
polyethylene sheet to prevent dust etc.
All the Inspection and Checking area to be provide with a minimum of
1200 Lux light level. Whenever the lighting level decreases, change the
Tube light bulbs. The Table tops to be of white laminated.
11. SEWING DEPARTMENT
The final garment comes out of a sewing department because of a set of wellcoordinated steps in each of the batches. It is the most dynamic department of
all. The layout, machines, batch size, no. of Batches, method of operation, no. of
workers on the floor etc can get changed according to the new style, order
quantity or production plan.
Once the Order gets confirmed for a particular style the planning department
comes in to action. It planned in well advance that which unit is going for
Production as well as the Quantity. It allocates the quantity & job order to different
units based on their capacity.
Then the IED Department in collaboration with Factory Manager, decides the
batch size, number of Batches and daily target to be achieved by the each batch.
Other details such as no of stitches/inch at different areas, measurement for
different sizes, placement of trims etc are finalized and standardized at the
sampling stage.
11.1 Reports maintained by Sewing Department
Daily production report
Purchase order sheet
Folders send by IED for every P.O.
Manpower report
Hourly production report
Monthly labor report
Batch order completion
Batch planning file
Cutting loading book
Time and motion study
11.2FUNCTION OF SEWING DEPARTMENT
The shift starts at 9:30 am in the morning. The inline quality controller
checks the un-finished pieces of the garment and check against the
original sample garment.
The line supervisor check the hourly production of each part of the
garment and also check the daily production status which have details
regarding line numbers, order details, particular regarding man power and
the machine available , lines expected and actual target operation target ,
WIP and the operator daily operation output
The supervisor also ensures that necessary thread, label and tapes are
available with operator.
The target is hanged in each line for a particular style of a garment.
The pieces are inspected carefully and then feed into line.
They check the 1st ply, middle ply and last ply in a cut-piece bundle at the
time of feeding or when cut pieces arrives in sewing room.
The pieces are marked and notched by template for the particular
operation at the time of feeding or inline process.
When major problem arises in the line during production then quality
people put the check point over there for finding the reason for the
problem and solving the problem.
11.3Process flow
P.O.WISE
P.O.WISEPLANNING
PLANNING
M/C
M/CLAYOUT
LAYOUT
BATCH
BATCHSETTING
SETTING
PILOT
PILOTRUN
RUN
BULK
BULKPRODUCTION
PRODUCTION
100%
100%CHECKING
CHECKING
DISPATCH
DISPATCHTO
TOFINISHING
FINISHING
SECTION.
SECTION.
11.4Sewing
The operator in the lines have been trained on the operations they are
required to perform and have been given specific instruction as to how to carry
out the operation for each style. They have also been taught certain technical
aspects of sewing such as stitch length, bight width, and thread tension etc. so
that they can tell at once if at all there are any problems with their machines.
They have also been taught minor adjustment so that time is not wasted in calling
the service technicians.
Each operator is responsible for his/her own workmanship and thus, has
the responsibility of checking the quality of sewing as the operator is performed.
Moreover a Job card is hanged on the machine for showing mock stitch sample.
PROCESS 1: Feeding to the batches/sewing lines
Receive Cut panels from sorting section and verify against the delivery
note.
Panels are stored style wise / color wise /size wise with identification.
Line plan is received from the Supervisor/Floor in charge.
Cut panels are issued to the batches according to the Line plan.
Trims are collected from Sub stores and issued to the batches according
to the cut panels issued by Sorting.

Entry is made n the register and report t given o the Supervisor/ Floor in
charge.
The Order completion report is prepared after the completion of the order.
Approval is taken from Production Manager / Floor in charge and handed
over OCR to the Execution team and materials to the Stores.
PROCESS 2: Production Monitoring during the sewing process
The attendance is counted and updated on the board

The On-date target on the production sheet and the board based on
information from IED is written.
The hourly production in the production sheet is noted down.
Divide the past pieces size wise from end of the table and issue to helper
for bundling.
Notify the hourly production operation wise to the supervisor, floor in
charge and assistant production manager.
The production details are written on the board kept in the Batch and the
main board.
The information on machine breakdown, no cut panel/material feeding,
pending pieces, batch setting idle time is collected for every work.
The report of on-date batch loading, production and balance production is
sent to the Production manager.
PROCESS 3: Rework Monitoring plans
Defective piece is identified by the operator/checker/QC.
The details of the piece and the type of defect identified, is recorded in the
format.
A red arrow sticker is put on the garment and kept separately from the WIP.
The Supervisor is notified and possibility of alteration is looked into.
o If Alteration possible
The alteration is done depending on the type of the defect
found.
The alteration is verified and approval from QC is taken
The altered piece is issued to the next process.
o If Alteration is not possible
The defective piece is sent for review by the supervisor.
The piece is sent to the Cutting/Finishing with delivery note.
Raise requirement for Re-cut and inform cutting section
The re-cut panels are received from cutting.

The following procedures are followed in the Sewing section. These are to be
displayed on a Display Board kept at the end of the Batch.
11.5.1 Style Analysis & Line Plan:

For each and every O.C. / P.O, Style Analysis has to be made , stating
the
sequence of operations,
Sewing machines to be used,
Folders,
Attachments, Presser Foots etc to be used. All critical operations to be marked.

Line Plan show the actual sequence of operations, number of stations for each
operations or combination of operations.
This will also show the Marker
positions, Iron Table positions, Quality checking positions.
11.5.2 Pre-Production Sample:

Pre-Production Samples has to be made with materials as specified in the
O.C. / P.O.
These samples have to be checked for Measurements, Visual
Defects, Stitching defects, shape etc.
Send the samples to the Buyers
representative and get his comments. Re-stitch the garment, if the comments
are major otherwise; take care of the minor comments during actual production. If
required, modify the Patterns to take care of measurement deviations and
shape. Take care of the non-conformances with appropriate department. Since
bulk production is going to be based on the pre-production, sufficient care has to
be taken and important points to be noted down for future use.
11.5.3 Size set / Pilot Run:

Conduct the Pilot Run and Size set in the actual Sewing Batch set for the
particular O.C. / P.O. Pilot run quantity should be for a minimum of 25 garments.
It is preferable to cover all the sizes during the Pilot run. Check the garments for
Measurement, visual defects,
materials used, Fusing defects, right type of
Folder / Attachment / Pressure Foot usage etc. If the garment has a Wash
program, check the garment after specified wash for the above.
Check for
shrinkage, shade variation, bleeding properties, breakage of stitches, damages to

Trims etc. Involve Buyers representative, Head office Q.A.
During the Pilot run
and get their approval. Modify the Patterns / Multi Patterns, etc based on the
actual shrinkage observed during Fusing, Ironing,
Washing. During Pilot run
stage, ensure that all the materials required are available, based on the Pilot Run
experience (especially the actual fabric requirement, requirement of other Trims,
Threads etc). In case if you observe any non-conformance, take it up with the
concerned immediately to avoid confusion at a later stage.
11.5.4 Pre-Production Meeting & Minutes:

Pre-Production Meeting to be conducted at the Factory with members
from Buying Office, Factory Quality section, Head office Quality Department,
Cutting section, Sewing section, Finishing section along with Plant Manger and
Production Manger. In the meeting these points should be taken care of during
bulk production for better productivity and Quality. Modification in Measurement
chart, concession offered by Buyers representative etc to be duly signed by them
for further use. The minutes to be prepared for future reference.
11.5.5 Job Description & Mocks:

Job description and Mocks to be prepared for each and every operation,
including the Marking & In-line Ironing. Mocks to be prepared by the actual
Operator on the machine for that particular operation and the Mock to be
approved by the Line Supervisor, Mechanic and Q.A. Critical operations are to
be marked clearly, Seam allowance & SPI to be mentioned, such that due care
can be taken during the process of manufacturing. The job description should
contain details like, name of Operation, Machine used, Needle used, Color & type
and ticket number of Thread used. Stitches per Inch, etc.
11.5.6 Machine setting Card / Maintenance Card / Preventive Maintenance:

Each machine to have the Machine setting card, detailing the SPI, Presser
foot,
Attachments , Folders,
Guides, Jigs and their
specification, seam
allowance, needle details etc. Record the Settings done on that machine, each
and every time with date and time.
The Maintenance card to contain the name of machine, type of machine,
make of machine, machine number, details of maintenance done with date and
time, details of preventive maintenance done with date and time.
11.5.7 In-Line Ironing Tables:

It is preferable to have Iron Tables with Vacuum suction as In-line Iron Tables.
Wherever required use right type of Bucks The Template used to have the
marking of the Patter # with colour code in case of Multiple patterns ( based on
shrinkage ) along with other details like O.C #./P.O. # etc.
11.5.8 Attachments / Folders / Guides / Jigs:

Style Analysis should be done before the
PP sample and necessary
Attachments / Folders / Guides / Jigs with specification required to be found out

and organized well in advance. These details should be recorded.
Sewing Allowance guide to be attached to all the Over Lock machines.
Material Handling Equipment:
Where ever required Material Handling Equipments like, Movable Trolleys,
Hanging Rails, Movable Clip Hanger rails, Cut parts trolley, Sewing line trolley,
Gravity Chutes,
Slant Trays, Trays, Telescopic Bars , Bin Trolleys & Bins,
Racks , etc to be provided for easy handling and to avoid stains etc.
Maintenance of these Equipments is equally important. Remove the Thread
pieces from the Wheels of the Trolleys. Clean this equipment at least once in a
week to prevent dirt, dust, etc. Oil the moving parts like wheels and take care to
see that the spillage of Oil do not spoil the Garments.
11.5.9 Quality control in sewing line:

All the Inspection and Checking area to be provide with a minimum of 1200 Lox
light level. Whenever the lighting level decreases, change the Tube light bulbs.
The Tables to be of White Laminate.
11.5.10 In-Line Process control:
Follow the Random Sampling Technique method of In-line checking of all the
operations and more care to taken for the critical operations. Use Statistical
Process Control tools and prepare Attribute Control Charts for visual defects
and Variable Control Charts for Measurements. Monitor the Charts at regular
intervals and take necessary correction action immediately.
11.5.11 End-Line Inspection:
All garments are to be 100 % checked at this point and necessary corrective
action to be taken. To enable proper checking display the Approved Garment
, Buyers comments on the approved Samples , Trim card , Fabric Swatch card,
Fabric defect standards ( clearly marked Acceptable and Not Acceptable ).
Display all the relevant files and details as instructed from time to time.
Attach a Follow up card, which details the nature of defect and the remedial
action taken. This will ensure that the Garment has been rectified and free from
defect.
11.5.12 Measurement Control:
Display the Measurement chart / In-process Measurement chart (in case
of wash program), Diagram showing the method of measurement etc. Multiple
Pattern Category # and their shrinkage ranges with color coding. Measure at
least 10 % of the Garments produced for the day. Prepare Variable Control
chart for necessary corrective action.
Sewing Supervisors , Production Mangers and Q.A.s should regularly- at least
4 times in a day - see the In-Line and End Batch check sheets and take
necessary corrective action. These corrective actions are to be recorded at the
back of these check sheets.
Statistical data on DHU (Defects per 100 units). Like Daily line defect %, Weekly
%, Month % etc to be collected and analyzed Graphs, Bar charts, Histogram etc
to be drawn for analysis.
11.6 FACTORY PRE-PRODUCTION MEETING
1. PP Meeting is held 5 days prior to starting production, this includes cutting.
2. It is Factory Managers responsibility to schedule all PP Meetings
3. All PP Meetings must be attended by following personnel:
a. Factory Manager
b. Production Manager
c. Quality Assurance Manager
d. Cutting Room Manager
e. Senior Supervisor
f. Industrial Engineer
g. Head Mechanic
h. Roving QC
i. End line QC
j. Finishing Manager
4. In order to hold the meeting, the following items must be available:
a. Style file, incorporating tech spec
b. Approved sample, signed and stamped
c. Trim card (approved for bulk production)
d. Fabric swatch (approved for bulk production) including shade
bands. Swatch must clearly define face side with approval stamp
e. Approved mending of embroidery(with approved thread colors)
f. Approved wash standards, and/or any treatments required, e.g.
Sand blasting/tints/abrasion etc.
g. Cut work for factory
5. Each department is responsible
for
providing
the
relevant
information/items.
6. Each department must ensure all relevant information/items are available
and handed to planning department two days before PP Meeting is
scheduled.
7. PP Meeting schedule is issued by Planning Department
8. Every Meeting is documented with:
a. Personnel attended
b. Notes/observation/areas of concern
9. Two factory PP samples are made after the meeting and before production
starts
a. The line supervisor is responsible for making factory PP samples
and Roving QC will assist on any quality/technical issues
b. The line supervisor and roving QC are responsible for measuring
and evaluating PP Sample. All measurements comments are
documented on the Factory PP evaluation sheet.
10. The factory pp sample must be evacuated and approved by technical
department before the production starts. Production will not be allowed to
start until this procedure has been satisfied and sample has been
approved.
11.7 Factory Pilot Run

1. Factory has to proceed with production once Factory PP Sample is
approved.
2. Cutting room must ensure a minimum pilot is cut, 10 pieces per size to be
issued for style introduction.
3. If fusing is required, check fusing conditions and shrinkage at this stage.
Findings are recorded.
4. Sewing floor proceeds with style introduction ensuring that all pieces are
fed through the line.
5. Sewing floor starts the sewing of the pilot pieces following the technical
specifications.
11.8PILOT EVALUATION PROCEDURES:

1. Pilot evaluation is conducted on all first offline garments
2. Representatives of Quality and Production departments are present during
the evaluation.
3. Garments are checked for correct trims/labeling etc.
4. Garments are checked against tech specification for construction.
5. Garments are checked for quality conformance to customer standards and
tolerances.
6. Garments are checked for measurement against approved size chart
7. After that, tolerances and standards for bulk production are agreed by all
those who are present there.
8. QA Manager and Pressing Supervisor then establish pressing methods
and standards.
9. QA Manager and
Pressing
Supervisor
check
the
garment
for
measurement after pressing.

10. QA Manager and Packing Supervisor ensure packing standard set.
Garment must have correct hanger, swing tickets, price tickets etc.
11. Garments from first offline are held as bulk standard at end line inspection,
final inspection, pressing and packing. All must have Pilot evaluation
reports attached.
11.9QUALITY CONTROL- System/Procedures

11.9.1 TRAFFIC LIGHT SYSTEM:
Green : Good workmanship to correct quality standards (0 faults found)

Yellow: Minor warning, workmanship in danger of falling below required
quality standard (1 minor fault found) and it includes excessive hanging
thread.
Red
: Major workmanship below specified quality standards (1 or
more major faults found)

PROCEDURES:
Alert Green:
Step 1. Roving QC examines 7-10 pieces
Step 2. Zero faults found
Step 3. Attach green disc and proceed to next inspection (operator)
2nd re-inspection:
1. Roving QC examines 7-10 pieces
2. A) Zero faults found-replace green disc and proceed to next operator
B) One or more faults found, minor or major- Red disc remains same,
highlight fault,
12. WASHING DEPARTMENT

12.1 Process Flow:
Receive garments from finishing department
Check garments in accordance to the quantity

mentioned in D.C.
Store garments in before wash racks
Buyer approved wash standard received from

merchandiser
Carry out 1st bulk wash
Identify the faults and make changes to the

Bulk
Bulkwashing
washingisiscarried
carriedout
out
Bulk wash ranges send to buyer with
Hydroexractor
Hydroexractor
Comments received from buyer
Tumble
Tumbledry
dry
Garments
Garmentsare
areinspected
inspectedas
asper
perA.Q.L
A.Q.L2.5
2.5
Grinding
Grindingififrequired
requiredfor
forthe
thestyle
style
Garments
Garmentssend
sendto
tofinishing
finishingfor
forpacking
packing
The washing section head receives the recipe and the desired finish
(wash) in the garment from the merchandiser, who gets this specification
from the buyer.
According to the wash and the recipe the washing section prepares 3-5
samples and sends to the buyer. The buyer approves one of the samples.
The washing section also alter the recipe accordingly and use.
After the buyer approves the sample, a Lot is given that wash (bulk
washing). 2 samples out of the bulk lot are sent to the buyer again for
approval.
If the buyer finds the earlier sample similar to the 2 new samples, it is
passed. Once it is passed, the bulk washing starts for the entire style
production (same recipe as made by the washing section is used).
Along with the garments comes the Delivery Challan. This Challan
contains the details of the buyer name, style number and the number of
garments received for washing.
When the garments are received, it is checked if the garment is soft or

hard. If the fabric is soft, then the garment is just washed with a softener.
If the garment is hard then the garment undergoes a proper Wash Cycle.
The wash cycle starts with the process of Desizing. This is the
process of starch/size removal which makes the garment stiff.
In the process of Desizing, firstly the garments are put in the

industrial washing machine. Along with the garments are added
1000 liter of water and chemicals Cotflax + Lube + Wetting agent.
Steam is also passed through.
If the wash is specified as a stone was, then pumice stone is also

added along with the chemicals.
The conditions maintained for this process are:
Time 30 mins
Temperature 60 C
Stones are used to remove the fuzziness and the
raised texture on the garment surface. The stone also causes

abrasion, which gives the garment a rugged look and feel.
After 30 mins, the stone is removed and the process

of Enzyme Wash is given to the fabric.
The water is let out until the water capacity in the

machine is 800 l. That is, 200 l is let out. The chemicals added in
this process are acid of 6.5 pH and an enzyme. Two types of
enzymes are generally used.
Acid enzyme generally used for garments that are

yarn dyed.
Neutral enzyme generally used for denims and for

garments made of white fabric.
The conditions maintained for this process are:
Time 40 mins
Temperature 55 C
The washing section maintains a pH format. This format gives the

exact pH to be maintained for the acids used. This is maintained in
the pH Standard Report. This report is sent by the buyer.
After this process, the garments are drained of the entire water.
They are then washed once in fresh water and then loaded once
again in the washing machine for the Over Dyeing process.
The garments are loaded with 700 lt of fresh water. To this the color
(tint) is added. Along with this salt is also added and the garments
washed for 10 mins.
Then after 10 mins, soda is added and the garments washed for
about 10 mins. The use of soda causes the garments to smell,
hence to remove this smell Acetic acid is added and the garments
washed for 4 mins.
After this process the garments are drained of the entire water.
They are washed in fresh water and then dried in the Hydro
extractor.
After this the garments are again rinsed in 700 l of water in cold
conditions and Silicone Softeners are added. This causing the
softening of the garments.
After the garments are washed or given the softening (according to

the garments being hard or soft) are dried using the Tumble Drier.
The garments are then stored in the after wash racks near the
entrance door. The whole process takes almost 3 hrs to complete.
The garments are then loaded in the truck and a Confirmation Copy
is made. This copy contains the details and the number of garments that
are being sent.
4 copies are made, 2 copies are sent along with the garments
(truck) to the units from where they had come. 2 are kept in the washing
section itself.
1 copy from the 2 copies sent is sent back by the unit to the
washing section confirming that the correct and mentioned no of garments
have reached.
This copy sent back is then tallied with the 2 copies the washing section
have.
The washing section also maintains a Stock Ledger.
The left side of the ledger has the details of the garments
received. It stores the Date, PO No, Qty, and the Tot Qty. the
total quantity is the number of pieces that come in the whole
day.
The right side of the ledger has the details of the garments
sent after washing. It stores the Date, PO No, Qty, and the
Tot Qty. The total quantity is the number of pieces that are
washed in the whole day.
BATCH
BATCHRECEIVING
RECEIVING
COUNTER
COUNTERCHECKING
CHECKING
KAJA
KAJA&&BARTACK
BARTACK
SEND
SENDFOR
FORWASHING
WASHING
AFTER
AFTERWASH
WASHCHECKING
CHECKING
13. FINISHING DEPARTMENT

BUTTON
BUTTONMARK
MARK&&SEW
SEW
13.1 Process flow:

TRIMMING
TRIMMING
IRONING
IRONING
MIDDLE
MIDDLECHECKING
CHECKING
FINAL
FINALCHECKING
CHECKING
PRESENTATION
PRESENTATIONCHECKING
CHECKING
MEASUREMENT
MEASUREMENTCHECKING
CHECKING
TAGGING
TAGGING
POLY
POLYBAG
BAGCHECKING
CHECKING
CARTON
CARTONPACKING
PACKING
Finishing process is to check the garment for any defect and to make them
appealing through pressing. Garments are check according to quality system
approved by a particular buyer.
AQL of 2.5 is followed for maximum buyers.
Finishing is done to ensure that no defected garments are packed.
13.2 Process of Finishing Department

13.2.1 Kaja and button Section:
Kaja Marking and Making: This Section receives the sewn garments.
Initially templates and pins are used to mark the kaja position. Now kaja
are made the marked position by the specialised machine.
Button Marking and Attaching: Similarly with the help of button attaching
machine buttons are attached at the marked positions.
Button Shank wrapping: Now the button shank is wrapped by the button
shank wrapping machine to provide strength and tight hold to the buttons
on the fabric surface.
Button and Kaja checking: There is a separate inspection table for the
kaja section where proper button and kaja placement and alignment are
checked. If any discrepancies found they are again sent back for
correction.
Sticker Removing: Now finally stickers are removed from the garments
and they are further sent to the washing or the finishing department.
13.2.2 Thread cutting

Extra thread coming out of seam ends. Uncut threads affect the presentation
of finished and packed garments. Therefore, it is necessary to cut and trim the
loose and uncut threads as soon as possible. As soon as button was attached
the garments pieces were brought to five tables meant for the purpose of thread
cutting. There were around 12 operators doing this job using the clippers. An
hourly production record was maintained for the thread cutting workers.
13.2.3 Spotting
Stains which are not removed from the garments after washing also are
removed by spotting in this process. As soon as the quality checkers comes
across a defect, he brings the defective piece to the operators meant for the
purpose of trouble shooting i.e. alteration and satin removal section. This section
comprises of the following personnel
alteration tailors (eight in no.) for the correction of stitching defects
spot washing gun operators ( eight in no.) for removal of various
type of stains.
An hourly and daily record of the number of pieces altered is
maintained. This helps in keeping a track on the quality of garments being sent
to finishing by the production floor. 20-30% is normally the alteration and stain
removal rate.
13.2.4 Initial pressing

Initial pressing is done to remove the creases and to make the garment
visually alike as per the required sample of the buyer. The pieces were put into
iron boxes after thread-cutting activity gets over. From these boxes ironers who
used to iron the seams only retrieved the pieces. The ironing machines being
used for this purpose were Steam Ironing Tables with Vacuum Boards. These
irons were of the make Ramsons Viet. There were two lines of six irons each on
both the floor. These ironers used to steam iron the following seams
sweep
side seam
sleeve hem
or any other area they need to press for better checking
The whole idea of this seam ironing was to facilitate the quality checkers.
The ironing makes the seams visible. So, detection of any seam defects like
broken stitch, open seam, loose stitches etc became quite easy. An hourly
production record of seam ironers was maintained.
Various purposes of pressing:
To smooth away the unwanted creases and crush marks
To crease the garment wherever required like in collars before top stitch
To mould the garment to the contour of the body
To prepare the garments for further sewing (underpressing)
To refinish the fabric after the manufacturing of the garment
Not nearly as much attention has been paid to the technology of pressing as
to the technology of sewing and cutting. Some interesting points are:
The percentage of total manufacturing work content in pressing is around
50%.
The possibility of automation has been explored for some steam presses, but
most pressing operation requires the continual intervention of human hand.
13.2.5 Visual checking
Checking of all the garment is done according to required AQL. Each quality
checker is provided with two baskets (one for pass pieces and the other for
defective pieces), stickers for marking defects, thread clippers etc. each checker
is instructed to check the garments thoroughly, mark the defects with arrow
stickers and also to cut the uncut threads if found. Every checker puts the pass
piece in the plastic basket below the inspection table. It is the responsibility of
the quality checker to take the defective pieces for correction and after correction
put it in the pass pieces basket. The defects found at this stage could be
broadly of the following types
stitching defects
stains
weaving defects
button/buttonholing defects
Checker puts his allotted number on each of the garment piece passed by
him. All these checkers are given regular on-the-job training. Finishing incharge
or supervisors teach checkers the correct method of garment checking.
There are two types of production records that are maintained for these
quality checkers. They are
a) hourly production record
b) daily production record
13.2.6 Measurements Checking

After checking the garment visually, measurement of the garments is
checked according to the spec sheet with the acceptable tolerance.
13.2.7 Final pressing

Final pressing is done on the garment which has no defect. Based on the
ironing instructions, the supervisor gives the instructions to the ironing operators
about the correct way of ironing the garments of a particular style. It was very
essential because a lot of times it is used to happen that the garments were
supposed to be packed with cuff turned but they were packed with flat cuffs.
The hanging trolleys from where the garments were retrieved for ironing
and placed after ironing were ergonomically designed, keeping in mind the
ironing operators movement. An hourly production record of each ironer was
maintained for the purpose of keeping a track on the total production.
13.2.8 Attaching Price tags and other label

The pass pieces are brought to the tagging section on the hanging wheeled
trolleys. It was the responsibility of the packing supervisors to provide the
tagging operators with the appropriate price and brand ticket or tags. The
supervisor also instructs the tagging operator as to where and how the tag has
to be placed. After passing through all the checking and pressing process price
tag is attached to the garment through tag gun. The most important thing to be
kept in mind while placing the tag was to match the size mentioned on the main
label and the size on tag or ticket.
13.2.9 Packaging of the garment
After the attaching the price tag to the garment; garments are packed in
the poly bags or hanged in hanger as per the buyer requirements. The packing
instructions given by the buyers can be like type of polybag, any printing on
polybag required or not, garments to be hanger packed or not, method of folding
and packing the garments etc.
Packed garments are packed in the cartons as per the packaging plan.
Each cartons has specified number of garments and the quantity can neither be
increased nor be decreased after its planned.
It is very important to check the packed garments for presentation. Checkers
check the packed garments for the following things
Poly bag is as per specification
Tags and price ticket should must be visible as per specification
Packing is secured or not
Poly bags should not be soiled and torn
Hangers are there or not if specified
Garment has been folded as per specification etc.
Once, checking is done they send the garments for the carton packing. The
following things were kept in mind during carton packing
Number of garments to be packed in one carton
Ratio asked for example M:L:XL=1:2:2
Decide on the plies and dimensions(as specified by the buyer) of
the cardboard to be used
Get the cartons tested for bursting strength
Packing the garments in the cartons as per specified
Closing the cartons with cellophane tape

Sealing the cartons with plastic cord
Writing on carton information like store or buyer name, buyer's
address, ratio, net weight or gross weight of the carton etc.
Details about the style no., PO number, size etc are mentioned above the
carton box .Bar code slip is also sticked on the cartons. Each carton has its own
identification over the bar code slip.
Ratio packing:
Garments are packed size-ratio wise. In this kind of packing all the sizes are
packed together in a given ratio.
Example:
Size
Large
Ratio
10
20
20
10
XL
Location packing:
In this kind of packaging, shipment is packed in parts as per the buyers
requirement. This is also commonly used as shipment has to be send to
different location. So an order quantity of 1,00,000 pieces can be shipped as
20,000 to New York, 65,000 to U.K. and 15,000 to U.S.A.
Solid size packaging:

In this packaging type, each carton contains one size as per buyers
requirement.
Color wise Packing:
In this type of packing, different sizes of same color are packed
together in the given ratio.
Example: If 60 garments are to be packed in a carton:
Color
Blue
Ratio
20
20
10
10
XL

The following procedures are to be followed in the Finishing section. These are to
be displayed on a Display Board kept at the Finishing section.
13.3.1 Garment Receipt:

The garments received for Finishing has to be recorded in appropriate Ledger,
mentioning the O.C. / P.O. #, Color & Shade, Size, Washed or Unwashed etc.
Compare with O.C. / P.O. copy and verify the Quantity and the product mix. In
case of variation in quantity, size mix takes necessary action.
13.3.2 Job Description & Standards:

Process Flow chart are displayed. Any special instructions required are to be
displayed. The Display board should have approved, Garment, Trim Cards, Fold /
Packing method, Fabric defect standards, wash standards, shade band, Defect
% as observed in Finishing section. Ironing standards are available at the
section. Standard requirements explained to all Ironers, like method of Ironing,
Temperature, Steam usage, etc
13.3.3 Quality checks on Garments:

All the Inspection and Checking area to be provide with a minimum of 1200 Lux
light level. Whenever the lighting level decreases, change the Tube light bulbs.
The Table Tops to be of White Laminated.
Visual check: All the Garments to be checked for the Visual Defects
related to stitching, Fabric, Trims etc. Garments which are rejected are to
be rectified. Attach a Follow up card, which details the nature of defect
and the remedial action taken. This will ensure that the Garment has been
rectified and free from defect.
Record to be maintained for the % of
garments sent for Alternation / Rectification. Similarly maintain separate

record for the % of garments that underwent Spot washing.
Garments after Ironing are to be checked for right type of Folding,
Packing, attaching right type of Tags, Presentation, etc. Master Cartons to
be checked for the right information as specified.
Place Checkers/Inspectors identification mark in the garment at specified
place.
Measurement Check: All the garments to undergo measurement checks
at critical points at separate are. Daily a minimum of 32 pieces to 10 % of
garments to be checked for all the measurements as per Measurement
chart given by the Buyer by roaming Q.A. Necessary corrective action to
be taken for the
non-conformances.
Garments sent for alternation /
rectifications are to be tracked by a Follow up card and record to be

maintained for the Alteration %. Diagram mentioning how to measure are
displayed in the Audit areas.
Mini- Q.A. Center: The Mini- Q.A. Center: The Min-Q.A. Center should
be provide with a minimum of 1200 Lux lighting level.
Display
copy
Shade band, Fabric defect standards ( clearly marked Acceptable and

Not Acceptable ). Measurement chart, How to measure chart, Sewing
defect standards for Puckering etc.
13.3.4 Garment Packing:

Packing standards duly signed by the Merchandiser / Buyers representative to be
present in the area. Presentation inspections to be conducted before the
garments are put into poly bags. Price Tags, Bar code tags, and other such tags
to be stored in separate Pigeon hole self / box with dividers to avoid mix-up.
Garments to be sorted size wise before the tags / Price tickets are fixed on to
them. The first garment packed to be approve by Factory Manger / Q.A.
Quality Audits:
13.3.5 Internal Finished Goods Audit: By Factory Auditor.

In small lots (say for example 200 garments) finished packed garments to be
offered for final audits with the size written as a packing slip. Auditor must verify
the size wise quantity and select at random samples for audit .The Audit to be
done for visual as well as for measurement. The audit report is issued to the
Factory management with comments and obtain their signature. In case of audit
failure, this should be discussed with concerned for rectification and for
preventive measure. The lot wise records of all the audit done to be available for
that particular O.C. / P.O. with corrective actions taken if any.
13.3.6 Final Audit:
By Corporate Q.A. Team.
Before the Lot is offered for Inspection by Buyers representative, the lot should
be offered for Audit to the Corporate Q.A. team and get approved. They should
check for size wise count accuracy, carton audit, visual checks of garment &
packing. They should use slightly tighter sampling plan for audit. For example, if
Buyer is going to use AQL 4, the Corporate Audit team should use AQL 2.5 as
their sampling plan.
The Q.A should aware of the
Buyers
Tech.pak,
Measurement charts, Packing methods, comments on samples, PP comments,

Internal audit reports, before start their
actual Audit.
In case, the lot gets
rejected, Audit to be conducted after due re-screening / rectification.

13.3.7 Review Rejections:
Review of rejection to place with P.M./ F.M. / Q.A. for taking necessary corrective
action from time to time.
14. QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT

Quality Policy:
Quality is:
The standard of excellence needed, throughout the business, to develop
and deliver the products and commitments to the customer.
Measuring performance to benchmark Sara Lee Courtaulds against

leading market standards.
Sara Lee Courtaulds Quality Objective:

To provide superior products and services to our customers that exceeds
their minimum requirements.
To ensure that the quality foundation of business processes satisfies and
is adaptable to meet customers changing demands.
Strategy:
Achieve independent quality certification for each of the business areas.
Regularly review key performance indicators and business processes, to
assure continuously adapting and improving systems to upscale service
delivery.
Develop a business culture by investing in people, education, and process
and by rewarding high performance and achievement.
Invest in and develop partners and material supply base capabilities to
support Sara Lee Courtaulds quality commitments to its customers.
Long Term Vision:

To define the standard on which other private label suppliers are measured.
14.1 Organization of a Q.A. Team:

The Q.A. Team has well trained Quality Auditors and Quality Assurance Manager.
The role and responsibility of each one is clearly defined. They are empowered
with giving stop advice to the production department, in case, the Q.A. team
observe too many non-conformances occurring or repeatability is lost. Production
department then conducts a meeting along with Q.A. for necessary corrective
actions. Once the Q.A. is satisfied about the actions taken, regular production
commences. All the Q.A.s are briefed with the Quality System in Fabric
Warehouse, Cutting, Sewing, Finishing, and Packing. Job rotation is followed for
Q.As to ensure more effectiveness.
14.2 Quality Management Procedure:

14.2.1 AQL Inspection:
It is the responsibility of the Factory/ Site Manager to ensure that all
stock being dispatched from his/her site has been through a PreShipment AQL Inspection process.
A Pre-Shipment AQL Inspection can take place either , prior to the
storage in the factories finished goods warehouse or prior to
shipment to the distribution warehouses.
A Pre-Shipment AQL Inspection cannot take place unless the audit
team are in the possession of the followingo An approved/ signed product quality standard which at
minimum must be Contract Seal.
o The relevant product specification.
The batch size for each audit is very much determined by the stage
where pre-shipment AQL Inspection takes place; however, every
effort must be made to ensure that the batch size is no less than 50
selling units.
The Sara Lee Courtaulds Pre-Shipment Sampling Plan will
determine the sample size for each batch. It is essential that the
sample is randomly selected from the batch.
The visual inspection of the garment in the sample must be against
the garment specifications and the signed standard and faults found
must be based on the General Auditing Criteria.
All garments rejected must first be classified as either carrying a
major or a minor fault/s and then recorded on a fully completed
Production Unit Daily Pre-Shipment Audit Sheet
o Major fault is a fault that would make the product either unsellable or the customer would return it if noticed.
o Minor fault is a fault that may make the product either or the
customer would be dissatisfied if noticed.
When an audit has completed the failure levels must be checked
against the AQL for that sampling plan to determine the status of
the audit.
If the audit is accepted, the passed garments in the sample must be

returned to the remaining stock and the stock can then be released
either into the finished goods storage area or for shipment. Any
rejected garment must be clearly identified and quarantined ready
for repair or seconding.
14.2.2 A Rejected Pre-Shipment AQL Inspection:
If the audit is rejected, then the whole batch must be quarantined
and 100% inspected. It is recommended that the pre-shipment audit
team does not carry out 100% inspection.
Following the 100% inspection all faults found must again be
classified as either a major or a minor and then recorded in the
100% audit section of the audit sheet.
When the above step has been completed, the rejected garments
must be clearly identified and quarantined ready for repair or
seconding.
If the 100% inspection is not carried out by the pre-shipment audit
team, then the passed garments from 100% inspection must be
verified by the same team and the details of this re-audit must be
recorded on the audit sheet as an additional audit.
14.2.3 The Production Unit Daily Pre-Shipment Audit Sheet

At the introduction of the whole Pre-Shipment AQL inspection
procedure each individual factory or business must decide on its
own series of fault codes. The audit sheet allows for 25 different
fault codes. These must be recorded on master sheet and be used
on all future audits.

The fault codes must be based on specific areas of manufacturing
to identify trends and areas of continuous improvement.

There must be one sheet per auditor per day regardless of how
many different styles a day and individual auditor audits and the
audit date and the auditors name must be completed on top of each
sheet.
Data must be recorded in each individual column as follows:
JIT/Line No.
The number of the team where the stock was
Style
produced.
This is the stroke number of the style audited. And
Colour
must include any relevant suffixes.

This is the colour/colours of the garments included in
the audit. This is an optional column and does not
Batch Size
have to be used.
The total number of individual selling units in the
Sample
specific audit.
The total number of selling units inspected determined
by the sampling plan.
SAMPLE AUDIT
Major Faults
The number of garments, which have a fault/faults
Minor Faults
categorised as major from the inspection criteria.

The number of garments, which have a fault/faults,
A/R
categorised as minor from the inspection criteria.

This is to indentify if the audit was accepted A or
rejected R.
100% AUDIT
Major Faults
The total number of garments carrying major faults

found in both the audit and the 100% inspection of the
Minor Faults
remaining stock.
The total number of garments carrying minor faults
found in both the audit and 100% inspection of the
Fault Codes
remaining stock.
The total number of faults, by category found in both
the audit and 100% inspection.
15. RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT

TESTING LAB
15.1 PROCESS CHART
Request
Requestfrom
frommain
mainstore
store
Receiving
Receivingsample
samplefabric
fabricfrom
frommain
main
store
store
Lab
Labnumber
numberisisassigned
assigned
Conditioning
Conditioning
Test
Testmethods
methodsfollowed
followed
Shrinkage
Shrinkageand
andtest
testreports
reportsare
are
prepared
prepared
Reports
Reportsare
aresent
sentto
tomerchandiser
merchandiser
In-house lab receives samples from suppliers for testing purpose. Each sample is
given a lab number before testing is carried out. The test carried out here are for
internal verification only, not for getting precise test results. The test methods
adopted are as per in-house procedures to enable the company to monitor the
quality of fabrics before sending them to the approved laboratories like Intratek or
SGS for final quality evaluation. Testing is done only for 10% of each lot. All the
specimens to be tested are conditioned under standard conditions of temperature
at 21 1C and relative humidity of 65 2% for four hours.
Test methods carried out in-house are:
Count
Construction
GSM
Shrinkage
Colorfastness
15.2. In-house Test Methods:

15.2.1 Count:
For evaluating the count of the fabric 30 threads each of 30 cm are taken out
from the fabric for both warp and weft and are weighed using electronic
weighing balance.
15.2.2 Construction:
Construction of warp and weft are determined by the use of pick glass or by
dissection method. Normally, the numbers of threads present in warp and weft
direction in one inch of the fabric are counted using the pick glass. When it is
difficult to count the threads using pick glass, more than one inch of fabric is
cut from two different places of warp and weft and by removing threads from
both sides it is made exactly one inch. The number of threads present in one
inch is counted by removing all the threads one by one. The reading is
confirmed by taking another reading.
15.2.3 GSM:
The Fabric to be tested for GSM is folded in to and placed between the GSM
cutter and the cutting pad. When the safety catch is released, a slight
pressure on the hand wheel brings internal blades into contact with the fabric.
Specimens are cut by rotating the hand wheel under pressure. The GSM
cutter blade cuts fabric in a circular shape of diameter 11.2 centimeter. Out of
the two specimens place the specimen formed by the top ply on the weighing
machine and close the window so that no air is disturbs the fabric and thus
causing incorrect readings. After few seconds reading is taken. This gives the
GSM of the fabric. GSM cutter is used for knit fabrics. In case of woven fabric
a sample of 10 X 10 centimeter is cut and weighed on the electronic weighing
machine, the weight thus obtained is multiplied by 100 to obtain the GSM of
the fabric.
15.2.4 Shrinkage:
The sample size used for shrinkage should be of 75 centimeter length
minimum and full width of the fabric roll. Three markings of 50 centimeter are
marked on the fabric width with indelible ink in both directions. If sample is
small then 10 inches marking is done. In the case of knitted fabrics in tubular
form, two markings each on length wise are marked on each surface of the
fabric. They are washed in the washing machine for 12 minutes, rinsed for 6
minutes and spinning for 6 minutes. Few drops of wetting agent are added to
water before washing. The samples are dried using tumble drier (temperature
not exceeding 60C) or as per requirement. This cycle is repeated two more
times. The sample is cooled at room temperature and the final measurements
are taken. Under the shrinkage scale percentage shrinkage or extension is
directly read. Average value is reported. Formula for calculating shrinkage is:
Shrinkage %= change in dimensions/original dimensions
15.2.5 Color Fastness
(i) To Washing:
Color fastness is the property of a dye or print that enables it to retain its
depth and shade throughout the wear life of a product. Dyes are
considered fats when they resist the deteriorating influences to which they
will be subjected. The test is carried out using the launderometer. Two
specimens of 10 cm X 4 cm are cut from the sample and a multi-fiber
fabric (containing acetate, cotton, nylon, polyester, acrylic, wool.) is
attached to it by stapling. The launderometer is maintained at 49C 3C.
Neutral soap solution of 0.15 gpl concentration is prepared and 200 ml of
this solution is poured in a steel jar along with 50 steel balls (each of 0.6
cm in diameter). The specimen is then put into this jar and these jars are
rotated for 45 minutes to create agitation action. At a time 8 such jars
could be placed in the launderometer. The specimens are then removed
from the jars, rinsed under running water and allowed to dry under a
temperature not exceeding 70C.
(ii) To Rubbing (Dry/ Wet):
(a) Dry Crocking Test:
The test specimen is placed and fixed on the base of the crockmeter
resting flat on the abrasive material. A white test cloth square (crocking
piece) is mounted over the end of the finger. The covered finger is lowered
on to the test specimen, and rubbed 10 times to and fro for the full length
(approximately 1 rub/second). Remove the white crocking piece and
evaluate for staining using grey scale.
(b) Wet Crocking Test:
Clamp the test specimen as in the case of dry test, the white crocking
pieces are thoroughly wet out in distilled water and excess water is
squeezed out (so that wet pickup is approximately 60-65% for AATCC and
90-95% for ISO). The finger is lowered onto the test specimen and rubbed
10 times to and fro. The wet crock piece is removed and dried at a temp
not exceeding 60C. The staining is evaluated using grey scale.
The angle of inclination of the base plate of the crockmeter should be
maintained at 45 if AATCC standard is followed and 90 if ISO is followed.
15.2.6 Color Matching Cabinet:
The samples obtained after color fastness test are checked for any color
variation in the color matching cabinet.
The color matching cabinet has six types of light present in it Daylight,
Cool White, Horizon, Ultra Violet, TL 84, A.
The type of light to be used while matching is specific to the buyer and in
case if not mentioned then daylight is used.
Any change in the original color (shade) and /or staining or color transfer
on the standard fabric is evaluated by visually comparing the test
specimen to the AATCC gray scale for color change and staining for
American buyers and
ISO gray scale for color change and staining for European buyers. The
difference in color change and the amount of color transfer are given a
numerical value ranging from 5 to 1.
Class 5
Class 4
Class 3
Class 2
Excellent
Very good
Good
Fair
Class 1
Poor
PART-2
PLANT LAYOUT
LAYOUT OF GROUND FLOOR:
EMERGE
NCY EXIT
FABRIC STORE
STORE
FABRIC
(16.2 xx 18.5)
18.5)
(16.2
SPREADING/CUTTING TABLE
INSPECTION
TABLE
CUTTIN
G DEPT.
OFFICE
FUSING
MACHINE
OFFICE
OF
FACTOR
Y
MANAGE
R (12.9
x 12.4)
(11.8
x
19.10
)
I.E
DEPT.
STORE
AMBULAN
CE ROOM
ENTRAN
CE
RECORD
RECORD
STORE
STORE
GENERATOR &
GENERATOR &
TOILETS
TOILETS
(25.6 x 16.6)
(25.6 x 16.6)
B
B
U
U
N
N
D
D
LL
II
N
N
G
G
BAND
BAND
KNIFE
KNIFE
M/C
M/C
(11.8
x
19.1
0)
H.R
DEPT
.
INSPECTION / RECUTTING TABLE
TABLE
TABLE
C
C
H
H
EE
C
C
K
K
II
N
N
G
G
ENTRAN
CE
AREA=2600 SQ FT
CRECH
E
LAYOUT OF FIRST FLOOR

Area=5539 sq ft
170 work stations
TOILETS
TOILETS
132 machines
TRIMS
STORE
GUEST
TOILET
(6.5)
26
WORK
30
WORK
STATION
STATION
S
S
(16.10)
(16.10)
30
WORK
23
WORK
STATION
S
(16.5)
STATION
STATION
S
S
(16.5)
(16.5)
STATION
STATION
S
S
(16.10)
(16.10)
30
WORK
STATIO
NS
(20.7)
30
WORK
STATION
STATION
S
S
(16.10)
(16.10)
ENTRAN
CE
CHECKIN
G TABLE
PM
TABLE
PM
TABLE
CHECKIN
G TABLE
MANAGEMENT INFORMATION SYSTEM

Management Information System (MIS) is a subset of the overall internal controls
of a business covering the application of people, documents, technologies, and
procedures by management accountants to solving business problems such as
costing a product, service or a business-wide strategy. Management Information
Systems are distinct from regular information systems in that they are used to
analyze other information systems applied in operational activities in the
organization. Academically, the term is commonly used to refer to the group of
information management methods tied to the automation or support of human
decision making, e.g. Decision Support Systems, Expert systems, and Executive
information systems.
At the start, in businesses and other organizations, internal reporting was made
manually and only periodically, as a by-product of the accounting system and with
some additional statistics, and gave limited and delayed information on
management performances.
In their infancy, business computers were used for the practical business of
computing the payroll and keeping track of accounts payable and accounts
receivable. As applications were developed that provided managers with
information about sales, inventories, and other data that would help in managing
the enterprise, the term "MIS" arose to describe these kinds of applications.
Today, the term is used broadly in a number of contexts and includes (but is not
limited to): decision support systems, resource and people management
applications, project management, and database retrieval application.
MIS' is a planned system of collecting, processing, storing and disseminating
data in the form of information needed to carry out the functions of management.
According to Phillip Kotler "A marketing information system consists of people,
equipment, and procedures to gather, sort, analyze, evaluate, and distribute
needed, timely, and accurate information to marketing decision makers."
The terms MIS and information system are often confused. Information systems
include systems that are not intended for decision making. MIS is sometimes
referred to, in a restrictive sense, as information technology management. That

area of study should not be confused with computer science. IT service
management is a practitioner-focused discipline. MIS has also some differences
with Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) as ERP incorporates elements that are
not necessarily focused on decision support.
In Gokaldas Images, MIS is followed in the following way. All the different levels
have their separate tasks decided.
The Management Information System maintains different files at different
levels.
1.
Fabric and Trims:
Fabric/ Trim Master File
Material Requirement
Material/Style Cross Reference
2.
Vendors and purchasing:
Vendor Master File
Purchase Order
Purchase Order Receipts
Purchase Order Report
3.
Order Processing:
New Orders
Bulk and Distribution Orders
Order confirmation
Order summary reports
Order detail reports
Delivery Schedule
4.
Shipping and Invoicing:
Order Allocation
Invoice
Shipping log report
5.
Accounts Receivable:
Customer Payments
The reports generated are:

1.
Purchase
Purchase Order Summary
Purchase Receipts
2.
Materials:
Material Requirement
Material Requirement time phased
Material Master List
Inventory material list
Material Commitments
3.
Style:
Work in progress
Stock on Hand
Quantity on Order
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PREFACE

On completion of the Sixth semester of Apparel Manufacturing & Information

Exposure to factory and office conditions.

Study of manufacturing processes thoroughly.

Understand inter and intra - departmental procedures.

Analyze different working procedures and write down problems and

Understand industry expectations from a DFT student.

1.3.3 Denim wear

18 specialized garment manufacturing facilities.

Six node lectra CAD/Cam facility.

All accompaniments for global electronic exchange of pattern data.

Stringent sampling and quality control systems.

In-house textile quality lab.

In-house washing facility.

In-house multi-head embroidery.

STM, AATCC, ISO and DIN standards followed

Single web-based information system connecting all operations.

1.9 RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT:

International human rights laws followed.

Strict compliance with anti-child labor laws.

Health insurance, pension and bonuses, gratuity, paid-medical leave and

Minimum wages and overtime regulation.

Special cell under HRD o take care of grievances.

Extensive biological effluent treatment plant.

Azo-free and environment friendly dyeing process.

1.13 FACTORY PROFILE

M/s Gokaldas Images

8798 square feet

Product category that

Finalization of Measurement Charts, Patterns and Styles Sheets ordered

Procurement of fabric and non fabric items and accessories

o Manpower and machinery

stock/availability once again

Finishing & Packing

To confirm that the order has been placed.

What are the required machines and attachments.

The following persons should contribute to this

Within 3 days of an order being confirmed.

A sample garment or sketch.

2.1.2 PILOT APPRAISAL MEETING

To go through the first production and confirm that the

To confirm trim and fabric consumptions

Discuss all the raw materials

The following persons should contribute to this

Additional people should be asked to attend when

As first pilot production is completed and before

1. Full style file.

2.1.3 PRE PRODUCTION MEETING

To discuss the final style details.

Are all the required machiners and attachments in

The following persons should contribute to this

Two weeks before the production start date.

1. A garment has been made in the factory.

2.1.4 START UP MEETINGTART UP MEETING:

To discuss the final details and raw material

Discuss all the raw materials

The following persons should contribute to this

Three days before the production start date.

1. All fabric and trims are in house, tested and