National Institute of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar

Quality Manual
Formal Trouser

2010

Submitted by:
Vinay Prajapati
M.F.Tech, Sem-I,
NIFT, Gandhinagar

Submitted to:
Ms. Nupur Chopra
Asst. Professor
NIFT, Gandhinagar

Contents

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Introduction
Objective
Cost and Quality
Management Responsibility
I. Purpose
II. Scope
III. Organisational Structure and Responsibilities
IV. Job Description of Responsible Persons For Quality
5. Quality System
I. Purpose
II. Scope
III. Quality System Procedures
IV. Quality Planning
6. Receiving Inspection
I. Purpose
II. Scope
III. Receiving Inspection
IV. Accessories
V. Fabric Inspection
VI. Fabric Inspection Procedure - 4 Point System
VII. Rolls Selection Procedures
VIII. Acceptable Penalty Points
IX. Acceptable Point Count Level
X. Rejection Rate
XI. Running Defects
7. Process Inspection
I. Purpose
II. Scope
III. Process Inspection
IV. Spreading Inspection
V. Cutting Inspection
VI. Sewing Inspection
VII. Table Inspection
VIII. Two Hourly Inspection
8. Final Inspection
I. Purpose
II. Scope
III. Activities
IV. Garment Inspection Procedure

1.
2.
3.
4.

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V. Defects Classification List (Major)

VI. Defects Classification List (Minor)
9. Sampling Techniques
10.Pre-Shipment Survey By Acceptance Sampling
11.Control Of Non-Conforming Products
I. Purpose
II. Scope
III. Activities
12. Garment Taken: PETERENGLAND Formal Trouser
I. Sampling of Formal Trouser
II. Front View
III. Back View
IV. Parts of Formal Trouser
13.Conclusion

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Introduction

Introduction
With the increased demand of garments in the world wide, number of garments factories is growing
rapidly but Q.A. management system cannot be developed in the same speed due to the lack of Q.A.
management system. Quality of product and service along with the efficiency of the work force is the
foremost objective to produce products and service of the high standard, which meets all the
specifications, including environmental concern and safety.
Commitments to valued customer:

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1. Maintaining the highest achievable quality possible

2. The most competitive pricing in the world market
3. Shortest lead-time with on time delivery
4. The best environment for ethical standard in accordance with world compliance standards

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Objective

Objective
Objectives of these policies are:

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1. To understand customers perspective of quality

2. To provide better quality of products and service
3. To provide good and safe working environment to the workers, which includes human
value, respect, justice, cleanliness, discipline and equality between workers and others
4. To implement quality control system with the aim to achieve zero defect level through
efficient management, research, development and continuous improvement

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Cost and Quality

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Cost and Quality

Cost and Quality

QUALITY: Quality is defined as Totality of characteristics of an entity (product, service etc.) that
bears on its ability to satisfy stated and implied needs.
QUALITY CONTROL: Is an effective system for interchanging the quality maintenance and quality
improvement efforts of various groups in an organization so as to enable production at the most
economical levels which allow full satisfaction for the consumers.
TOTAL QUALITY MANGEMENT (T.Q.M.): Is described as an all- inclusive fully integrated
productivity technique. It helps to create new markets, expand existing markets and recapture lost
markets by utilizing the optimum capability of man, machine, material, method and produces high
and uniform quality of products with reduced costs. Total quality control starts from market i.e.
from purchasing material and machine and ends in the market i.e. selling the finished products in
the market including after-sale service. It includes market analysis, product development,
production planning, statistical quality control, preventive maintenance, wastage control,
inventory control, cost reduction and after sales service etc. The ultimate goal of T.Q.M. is to
increases the quality/cost ration and continuous improvement. It may be done by increasing the
quality with same cost, decreasing the cost with same quality and increasing quality and
decreasing coast at the same time.

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The basic quality problem is to set correct balance between the cost and quality i.e. to find out a
suitable quality/cost ration for the product which will satisfy the consumer both for cost and
quality.

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10

Management Responsibility

Management Responsibility
Section 1

PURPOSE
The organizations quality policy is documented and communicated to each person in the
organization. The organizational structure, responsibilities and authorities have been described to
ensure every key personnel know his job and the same could be cross checked by his higher
management. To check the effectiveness of the quality system, it has been suggested to conduct a
meeting after every fortnight with the responsible officers taking care of quality system in their
assigned position.

SCOPE
This section covers the organizational structure and responsibilities of all personnel who
supervises, perform and verify works at different stages for the improvement and maintenance of
quality.
ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE AND RESPONSIBILITIES
The following positions play a managerial role in the maintenance of product quality and the
quality control system through chain of command.
JOB DESCRIPTION OF RESPONSIBLES PERSONS FOR QUALITY
1. MANAGING DIRECTOR: will ensure the absolute adherence to the quality control system by
exercising his authority through his channel of command.

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a) Preparing quality manuals for the group

b) Taking approval from the MANAGING DIRECTOR for implementation of the system stated in the
manual
c) Implementation of statistical quality control system in the factories here it is applicable
d) Training of QC personals for continuous improvement to achieve zero defect level
e) Training of QC personals on statistical quality control system and graphical method for achieving
target quality level desired by the buyer
f) Collections of buyers quality guide lines from buyers website or manual and convey it to
Manager QA central, Manager QA factory and Monitoring for proper implementation to achieve
buyers quality level
g) Maintain liaison with buyers QA team for technical problems for which their help is needed
h) Monitoring the job of Manager QA central, Manager QA factory to evaluate their performance
and report it to concern authority
i) To help authority to recruit right person for right job of QA department.

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2. G.M.Q.A CENTRAL:

j) To inform to concern directors and chairman of the group the overall quality position of the
factories by MIS.
k) Inform the concern director if any factory is unable to perform up to the desired level of quality
by corrective action request or verbally.
l) Study quality related books, journals, manuals and research for continuous improvement.
3. MANAGER QA CENTRAL:
a) Collection of spec sheet, shade band card, trims card, fabric test report and approval sample
from the concern merchandiser and compare production sample with the Approval samples as
well as technical sheet
b) Not to allow any deviation from the approval sample if there is no written confirmation form
the buyer
c) Collection of fabric inspection report to judge whether fabric is acceptable for production on the
ground of shade, defect and other factors
d) In line inspection to see whether the garments quality is as per buyers requirement or not. In
case of any deviation, take corrective and preventive action.
e) Briefly describe the buyer requirement and quality control procedure to Manager QA factory for
proper monitoring to produce garments as per requirement of buyer
f) Report to Manager Quality, all his findings and inspection report for taking corrective actions and
monitoring
g) Collecting of buyers quality guideline documents, going through these and explain these to
manager Q.A. factory, and monitoring the same for correct implementation.
h) Conduct pre-shipment inspection before buyers inspection to be confirmed about the lots
defect level, whether it is as per buyers desired level or not. It not, sends the lot for recheck for
correction (alter) and re-inspect the same lot after correction.
i) Allotment of his QC team to all mother and sub contract factories (if any), monitoring the quality
of production in all factories and subcontract factories.

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a) Over All Administration of factories QA dept and monitoring the work of Sewing Q.C, Finishing
QC, Line QC, QI Cutting and all inspectors as well as evaluation of their performance.
b) Conduct training and make all his sub ordinates accountable to him for their performance to
achieve the target of quality level.
c) Reporting day-to-day quality status and trend to factory GM/PM.
d) Collection of approval sample, shade band card, trim card, spec sheet and go through these to
compare first of production with the approval sample before going for bulk production.
e) In case of any change in the style or design by the buyer he will communicate the floor people
for the confirmation of change.
f) Send samples of fabric, garments, and accessories to the concern merchandiser for lab test, if it
is required.
g) Conduct day final inspection on the available quantity of ferments at the end of day in finishing.
If the lost is not accepted go for correction. Conduct pre shipment inspection after completion of
the lot and take necessary corrective measures before buyers final inspection.

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4. MANAGER QA:

h) Details study of test cutting, sample, wash and non-wash and consult with Manager QA Central,
GM/PM of the factory if there is any discrepancy to find out appropriate solution.
i) Keep close co-ordination with Manager and GM QA, central for continuous improvement.
5. QC MIS & MONITORING: (Controlled by GM QA, CENTRAL)
a) Monitoring the job of MIS Asst./Inspector, and monthly MIS report to GMQA.
b) Process capability study of every line by calculating C.V of lines defect percentage.
c) Study of Technical sheet and approved sample of buyer. Compare first of production sample
with approved sample, with respect of technical sheet approved trim card and shade.
d) Monitoring in-process 7 pcs inspection, counter check table inspection.
e) Checking of line wise Monthly operators performance and Monthly table defect analysis.
f) Monthly defect analysis, C.V of defects line wise and factory wise
g) Moving average line and factory wise to observe the trend of defect.
h) Defect analysis after 100% process inspection in finishing.
i) Monitoring accessories, fabric and cutting inspection.
6. SUPERVISOR QC:
a) Carry out instruction receives from manager QA factory.
b) Monitor the job of line QCs in process 7pcs inspection, table inspectors and maintain liaison
with cutting quality inspectors.
c) Go through buyers approval sample, shade band card, trim card, spec sheet and supervise
making garments as per style and measurement.
d) Implementations of design change approved by buyer and instructed by Manager QA Factory.
e) Management, administration, training, motivation of his stuff for of continuous improvement.
f) Conduct daily inline inspection and fit audit and report to the manager QA.
7. TWO HOURS Q.I. (FINISHING):
a) Two hours inspection, visual and fit audit on buyers desired AQL. If lot is not passed, correction

of defects and re-inspection on same method

b) Monitor the job of all finishing inspectors and report to Manager QA Factory
c) Keep close co-ordination with Sewing for rectifying defects in Finishing and make defect analysis
in finishing taking corrective and preventive action in sewing.
d) Conduct training of all finishing QC Inspectors for continuous improvements.

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a) He is responsible to Manager QA Factory.

b) Monitor accessories inspection, fabric inspection, and cutting inspection.
c) Submit all inspection report to Manager QA Factory..
d) Collection of trim card and shade band card from Manager QA to compare the lot during
inspection.
e) Conduct cut panel inspection and accessories inspection as per sampling inspection plan.
f) Monitor spreading quality control and cutting quality control.

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8. Sr. Q.I. CUTTING:

9. SR. Q.I. SEWING: Two/Three for each line (Depending on no. of machines in line)
a) Carry out instructions of Manager QA Factory.
b) Conduct process capability study of the Line by calculating C.V (Co-Efficient of variation) of
hourly defect percentage.
c) Monitor quality performance of operators for continuous improvement and incentives to
operators for their performance.
d) Supervise the cutting bundles numbering, size and serial for proper control in the sewing.
e) Review the production sample according to approval sample and shade,
f) Check machine cleanliness, needle condition and size, proper thread count and shade.
g) Conduct process inspection having idea from table inspection report and defect analysis, about
the source of high ranking of defects.
h) Observe the trend of defects from the moving average of defects in the table inspection and
take special care in those particular processes in the line.
10. ACCESSORIES INSPECTOR:
a) Sampling of accessories as per US-MIL-STD-105E Normal Inspection Level II AQL 2.5 or specified
by buyer.
b) Inspection of accessories as per approved trim card by the buyer
c) Segregation of non- conforming accessories and keep it separately with non-conforming tags.
d) Preparing inspection report and submit it to Manager QA, factory.
11. FABRIC QUALITY INSPECTOR:
a) Random selection of rolls as per US-MIL-STD-160 5DE-1 05E to 10% of the lot.
b) Shade grouping of all rolls, compare shades with approved shade.
c) Side centre side, side-to-side, end-to-end and running shade check of individual rolls. `
d) Preparing shade grouping report and submit it to Manager QA.
e) Fabric inspection by 4-point system and making fabric inspection report
f) Segregation of non-conforming rolls with red tag and keep ii) a safe place.
12. CUTTING QUALITY INSPECTOR:
a) Spreading checking on 10 points
b) Block and bundle check.
c) Daily summary of cutting and spreading quality control report to manager A factory.

d) Affix allotted QA numbered arrow sticker to mark all defects where applicable,

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a) Segregation of non-conforming garments and returns to line QC for taking corrective and preventive
action.
b) Re inspection of non-conforming garments after correction.
c) Fill up the line wise hourly inspection format,
d) Affix allotted QA numbered arrow sticker to mark all defects where applicable.

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13. TARLE QI, OUTPUT: Number two/three for each line (inside and out side) 100 Inspection of outside and
inside of garments.

14. FINISHING QI (Individual Process)

a) 100% inspection of individual process inside and outside.
b) Segregate non-conforming garments in separate box and hand over to Finishing QC for correction.
c) Re inspection of non-conforming garments after correction.
d) Affix allotted QA numbered arrow sticker or mark all defects where applicable.
15. FINISHING QI (Measurement)
a) Measurements of 100% garments on specified points shown by QA Manager.

b) Segregation of non-conforming goods and hand over to QC Finishing for necessary correction.
c) Re-measurement of non-conforming goods after correction.
d) Fill up the measurement report and submit it to QC Finishing.
e) Affix allotted QA numbered arrow sticker to mark all defects where applicable.
6. FINISHING INSPECTOR (Final)

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15

100% inspections of garments get up (Overall appearance)

a) Segregation of non-conforming goods to QC Finishing for correction.
b) Re- inspection of non-conforming goods after correction.
c) Fill up the hourly inspection report
d) Affix allotted QA numbered arrow sticker to mark all defects where applicable.

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16

Quality System

Quality System
Section 2

PURPOSE
To document and maintain a quality system as a means to ensure that product of all factories to
specified requirement.
SCOPE
The quality system operated aims to ensure compliance to specified requirements and is defined
and driven by Quality Manual, departmental procedures and work instructions, those are defined
in this section.
QUALITY SYSTEM PROCEDURES
The Quality procedure of each factory will be reviewed by the concerned persons of Management
of that factory. Describing the quality systems of all factories of XYZ, this manual includes a brief
description of the functions and mode of operation of the factories management personnel with
respect to quality.
QUALITY PLANNING
Documented quality planning is stated by this manual, accompanying procedure and instructions
and quality, all of which comprise the Quality System. Thus, quality planning is, documented and
implemented by all Executives and Managers playing a role in the maintenance of product quality
and the quality management system.

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1. For massive awareness building regular discussion and meeting are conducted with the
concern people.
2. Regular training session is being conducted on Statistical Quality Control System
3. Introduce it as a tool to achieve the goal.
4. Introduce incentives for inspectors and operators for the best performing line.
5. Introduce operators' quality performance chart to find out source and type of defect for
taking preventive and corrective measures.
6. Reorganize process/7pcs inspectors job allocation, work procedure to make them more
accountable for effective control on process inspection with the help I-operators quality
performance chart.
7. Weekly defect analysis of process inspection, table inspection and final inspection to find
out the irregularities of inspection if any and. to take corrective measures.
8. Monthly defect analysis and moving average, line and factory wise, to monitor
improvement and trend of defect.

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To achieve the goal of zero defect level following steps has been taken.

9. For graphical representation of hourly defect percentage in control chart to set upper
control limit at 1.0%, central line is 0.65% and lower control limit at 0.0% to brine down
defect level towards zero by continuous improvement

Quality planning also includes the following

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Assignment of responsibility for conducting checks

Stages at which checks are to be carried out
Methods to be followed in conducting the checks
Frequency of the checks
Criteria for acceptance/rejections
Related documents to be checked
Documents to maintain as evidence of the checks
Corrective & preventive action to be taken subsequent to the check

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1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.

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19

Receiving Inspection

Receiving Inspection
Section 3
PURPOSE
To establish and maintain documented procedures for receiving inspection in order to verify that
the specified requirements for the product are met.
SCOPE
This section applies to the product being produced in the garment factories.
RECEIVING INSPECTION
ACCESSORIES
Before receiving accessories all necessary tests and inspection is conducted lot wise by the
accessories inspector under the guidance of QA Manager at buyers desired AQL. If result found
acceptable, then the lot is accepted otherwise lot is rejected and kept in marked area with a red
tag for the safety. So that non-conforming goods are not used in process.
FABRIC INSPECTION
Fabric roll is selected on the basis of random sampling;
acceptance or rejection criteria are decided at prescribed label
on 4-Point system. 10% of rolls -are inspected in this stage by
Fabric Inspector. In case of rejection of lot on 10% of rolls, rest
of the rolls of the lot is inspected thoroughly. Reject rolls are
kept separately with red flags.
Inspection records are kept in inspection format.
Summary of the fabric inspection is recorded in the summary
sheet, for management information.
Conforming goods are kept separately with Green
Sticker and kept in stack named.
READY FOR CUTTING

OBJECTIVE

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FABRIC INSPECTION PROCEDURE - 4 POINT SYSTEM

20

All rejected goods are treated as "NON-CONFORMING GOODS" and marked with red sticker.
Checking of s-lade and shade grouping.

The aim of fabric inspection is to check the quality, quantity and packing by visual, measurement a
colour check confirming with the specification and general appearance of the approval sample
given by buyer.
INSPECTION PROCEDURE
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Receive approved colour and quality swatches.

Check lot size and label against the submitted packing list.
Randomly draw 10% of the lot.
Delivery of less than 1000 yds 100% inspection
Delivery of 1000 yds to 10000 yds to inspect at least* 1000 yds.
Shipment of more than 10000 yds inspects 10% of the lot.

PENALTY POINT EVALUATION

Fabric to of graded will be examined from a distance of approximately three feet while runner-Up
cover the perch of a fabric inspection machine. The inspector will run the fabric at a speed
compatible with his ability to distinguish.
POINT CALCULATION
INDIVIDUAL ROLL
Penalty points X 36X 100
------------------------------------------------------------------Total yards Inspected x Width of cloth in inch
= Points per 100 Sq. Yard
AVERAGE POINTS PER SHIPMENT
Total Points per 100 Sq. yard of all rolls Inspected
------------------------------------------------------------------Total number of rolls Inspected
= Average points per 100 Sq. yard
PENALTY POINTS IN 4 POINT SYSTEM
The position of the defect in the fabric in either length or width

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1. These rolls shall be selected for inspection on a totally random basis.

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ROLLS SELECTION PROCEDURES

2. The knit dyeing unit is required to present the inspector with a shipment packing list when
80% of the rolls are packed from which the rolls to be inspected will be chosen.
3. Once the inspector has selected the rolls for inspection; no adjustment may be made to the
number of rolls to be inspected or to the rolls selected for inspection.
4. At no time during the inspection may any yardage be removed from any roll other than for
recording and measuring shade tolerances.
5. All rolls inspected will be graded and assigned penalty points.
ACCEPTABLE PENALTY POINTS:
If no specifies standard provided for knit fabric, the average point value per shipment not exceeds
40 points per 100 linear yards. Individual rolls exceeding 40 points shall be rejected.
DEFECTS CONDITIONS
1.
2.
3.
4.

No more than 4 points will be penalized within one yard

Severe defects are assigned max 4 points for each yard
Any hole and any running defect will be penalized 4 points
Whole roll having running defect or continuous defects in more than 10 yard will be
considered reject

SPLICE ALLOWANCE
1. It will not be allowed more than one splice
2. No part of a spliced roll can be shorter than 40 yard except specified by customer
ROLL LENGTH
1. Roll found to deviate more than 2% from the roll ticket yards shall be rejected.
2. The entire shipment shall be rejected if the total measured yards in the sample audit
deviates 1 % or more from the ticket yards.
HAND FEEL
The hand feel will be checked between roll with a reference sample. If there is a noticeable
difference, the roll will be classified as second quality.
SHADE HATCHING

1) Side to Side 4 5 or 5 (Accepted)

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COLOR SHADING RATING

22

Roll to roll with head to end, side to side, side center side will be checked during visual quality
inspection for preliminary. Final checking will be taken in the light box against gray scale rating.
Under light source D-65.

2) Side center Side 4 5 or 5 (Accepted)

3) End to End 4 5 or 5 (Accepted)
4) Lot to Lot 4 or 4 5 or 5 (Accepted)
5) Against approval sample 4 or 4 5 or 5 (Accepted)

ACCEPTABLE POINT COUNT LEVEL

Various types of textiles are divided into the following five groups. Individual rolls exceeding the
specified point count level shall be graded as second quality. A shipment shall fail the inspection if
the shipment penalty count points exceed the specified point count level
REJECTION RATE
If total rejected inspection yardage is over 10% of total inspected yardage, then overall result is
concluded as "Rejected"
RUNNING DEFECTS
1. Any defect found to repeat and/or run in a continuous manner will constitute a running
defect. All running defects must be assigned four points to every yard in the roll when the
running defect occurs.
2. Any roll having a running or repeating defect through more than three continuous yards
shall be rejected regardless of point occurs.

FULL WIDTH DEFECTS

1. No roll that contains more than four full width defects per one hundred linear yards shall be
accepted as first quality.
2. Any roll found to contain defects, in any increment of one hundred yards, with an average of more
than one major defect per ten linear yards will be rejected.
3. No roll shall be accepted that contains a major defect in the first or last three yards of the rolls. A
major defect is considered to be any three or four point defect
4. No roll shall be accepted as first quality that exhibits a noticeable of loose or tightness along either
or both selvedges or ripples, puckers, folds or creases in the body of the fabric that would prevent
the fabric form lying flat when being spread in a conventional manner.

FABRIC WIDTH

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middle and end. The roll width will be checked more often if the fabric is close to the specified
minimum width of if the fabric width is uneven.
2. Rolls paving a measurement of less than the specified width will not be accepted.
3. For knit fabric, rolls having a measurement of 1" wider than the specified diameter will not be
accepted. But for the stretched woven fabric, it can be accepted 2" wider than the specified
purchased width.
4. For knit fabric, rolls having a measurement of 2" wider than the specified purchased width will be
accepted. But for the Lycra knitted fabric, it can be accepted 3" wider than the specified width.

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1. Fabric width will be checked a minimum of three times during the inspection of a roll, beginning,

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24

Process Inspection

Process Inspection
Section 4
PURPOSE
To establish and maintain documented procedures for process inspection in order to verify that
the specified requirements for the product are met.
SCOPE
This section applies to the product being produced in the factories of XYZ.
PROCESS INSPECTION
Process inspection is conducted on following sages.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Spreading Inspection
Cutting Inspection
Sewing Inspection
Table Inspection
Two hour Inspections

SPREADING INSPECTION
Following ten points must be taken care of by the cutting quality inspector at the time of spreading.
1. Table marking
2. Ends
3. Leaning
4. Tension
5. Narrow goods
6. Remnants
7. Counts
8. Ply height
9. Marker Placing
10. Fabric Flaws

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Cutting inspection should be on the basis on random sampling on desired AQL. If the lot is passed on
sampling inspection then it is send for sewing operation, if not passed the whole lot is re-inspected and
rejected parts are replaced by good parts. In cutting inspection there are two types of check BLOCK CHECK
& BUNDLE CHECK. Following points are inspected in block check such as Size, Parts, Pattern check, Mis cut,
Ragged cutting, Notches, Matching plies.

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CUTTING INSPECTION

Following points are checked in the bundle check such as Size, Parts, Total quantity, Inspect quality, Defect
quality. However it is recommended to check 100% cutting parts under the light box table.

SEWING INSPECTION
a) The SR. Line Q.I should audit completed finished bundles
b) He must select 7 pcs at random from the bundle.
c) If the inspector finds defective unit, he will take following steps on operators duality Performance Chart.
d) He will mark red in the room against date of inspection with defect code and frequency as a symbol for
warning and recheck. He will hand over remaining units of the bundle to supervisor for check and taking
corrective action.
e) He will inspect next three bundles as follow up audit of the same operator and mark yellow in three
rooms if no defective units are found in next three bundles.
f) He will mark green in the room against date if no defective unit is found in the bundle.
g) The inspector will make operators monthly analysis to compare it with tables monthly defect analysis to
find out whether there is any lacking in the sewing inspection procedure.
h) QC Supervisor Sewing will monitor 7 pcs inspection, whether it is being done properly or not.
TABLE INSPECTION
Table inspection is conducted by two/three/four inspectors (depends on hourly output) to inspect inside
and outside of the garments. They will record hourly inspected garments, defect found, defect percentage;
also calculate average defect percentage, quality index of the day and CV of defects. This will help to
represent the defects graphically with the help of MIS Inspector. Monthly table defect analysis report is
prepared and to compare it with operators monthly defect analysis.
TWO HOURLY INSPECTIONS

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26

i) It is the responsibility of finishing unit TWO HOUR Q.I.

ii) It is conducted every after two hour.
iii) Both visual and fit audit is conducted on available garments received. per two hoursat desired AQL.
iv) If lot is acceptable than passed for poly packing
v) If not return back for correction
vi) After correction it is re inspected in the same way.

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27

Final Inspection

Final Inspection
Section 5
PURPOSE
To establish and maintain documented procedures for final inspection in order to verify that the specified
requirements for the product are met.
SCOPE
This section applies to the product being produced in factory facilities.
ACTIVITIES
Final inspection is the inspection which is conducted before shipment or buyers inspection. It is conducted
in two stages.
i) Day Final.
ii) Lot Final
DAY FINAL
Day final inspection is the responsibility of factory QA Manager. He conducts this inspection daily on
available garments which has passed by TWO HOURLY inspection and is conducted on desired AQL. If it is
passed, garments are ready for Central Q C Inspection or Buyers 0 C inspection
LOT FINAL

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28

Lot final is conducted by Central QA Manager when the lot is passed by Factory QA Manager before
shipment or in case any buyer gives the authority to the factory to conduct final inspection before
shipment. It is also conducted when buyers inspection is conducted before shipment. It is conducted on
desired AQL. If lot is passes, they are ready for shipment and placed before buyer's representative for final
inspection before the shipment.

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29

Garments Inspection Procedure

Garments Inspection Procedure

STEP-I
Inspector should collect the following before going for the inspection.
a. Approved sample from the proper authority.
b. First of production (FOP) garments sample as per size and color from the concern person or authority.
c. Approved colour swatches, shade band card, trim card from the concern person or authority.
d. Garments and Fabrics test report from the factory or agent.
STEP-II
a. Inspector should take the following items with him.

Inspection report form

Spec sheet
Calibrated flexible fibre measurement tape

STEP-III

v.
vi.
vii.

Inspect garments pcs by pcs.

Put arrow sticker on the defect position.
Classify defects as major and minor and score accordingly.
If the total points, each major=10 and minor=0.5 exceed the prescribed points as per desired
AQL reject the lot.
Complete data sheet of both visual and fit, take signature from the factory representative on
the sheet.
Replace defective garments in the carton by good-garments.
Collect some defective garments for reference hand over these to the Person concern for
corrective and preventive action.

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i.
ii.
iii.
iv.

30

a. Collect packing list from the factory and check carton against the packing list.
b. Compare FOP sample with the approval sample and find out if there is any deviation.
c. Check the shipping mark with the work sheet.
d. Select the carton for inspection by square root of .the total carton and select carton number with the
help of random number table illustrated in Sampling Technique chapter.
e. Put signature on both the side of carton opening.
f. Bring the carton in the inspection room which should be sufficiently lighted, tidy and clean.
d. Unseal the carton and check assortment, poly packing, hang tag, labels, colour tone etc.
e. Select the garments for fit audit size and color wise with respect to prescribed AQL of fit audit. Conduct
fit audit and identify total major and minor defects.
g. The defects will be called major if it exceeds tolerance and touch another size in case of measurement.
k. The defect will be called minor if it exceeds tolerance but does not touch another size in case of
measurement.
I. Major and minor defects criteria for Visual audit have been illustrated below.
M. If the total points major and minor exceeds points as per prescribes AQL, lot will be rejected for fit
audit.
n. Select garments sample size for workmanship

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31

Defect Classification List (Major)

Defect Classification List (Major)

FABRIC DEFECTS
1. Holes (yarns cut), broken ends, continuous missing yarn
2. Soil, oil spot, contrast visible at arms length / A-zone, adversely affecting appearance.
3. Misweaves, mispicks (woven)
4. Slubs (Linen & Silk not included) distinguishable when viewed at arras length A-zone
5. Colour bleeding (A-zone) colour combination not as specified
7. Misprint, dye spot
8. Bow in knit/ to inch (A-zone)
9. Coating defect less than % inch round (All zones)
10. Shaded parts (conspicuous mismatched)
11. Hand feel different from approved fabric swatch
12. Permanent crease mark Streaks
COMPONENTS AND TRIMS
BUTTONS & BUTTON HOLES
1. Buttons sewing thread colour not as specified
2. Missing button or button hole
3. Broken, damaged, defective or inverted buttons
4. Buttons do not conform to specification
5. Britton insecurely sewn
6. Improper button or button hole
INTERFACING / LINING / PADS
1. Fusible interfacing must be compatible to garment without bubble or pucker.
2. In a lined garment, the liner must not extend below hem of the shell.
3. Interlining apparent from outside of garments.
4. Missing one or both pads.

HOOK AND YES

Page

1. Insecure bottom or top stops

2. Incorrect colour or tape (shade) of zipper
3. Faulty slider on zipper
4. Any missing or damaged teeth
5. Does not function without special effort
6. Zipper size and length should be appropriate to garment end use or as specified not more than + inch
from spec. Any cut in the zipper tape. Tape stitched too loose or tight resulting in excessive bulge on tape
or placket when closed.
9. Any malfunction
10. Missing top or bottom stopper
11. Wavy zippers

32

ZIPPERS

1. Omitted or sewn in wrong places

2. Hook and eyes misaligned when fastened causing bulge or twist at the point of closure.
3. All metal parts (snap, hook and eyes, rivets etc) must be rust proof, washable and dry cleanable
4. Improper type
5. Defective
BELT AND BELT LOOPS
1. Belt Loop not fully secure
2. Incorrect number of belt loops on garments as specified
3. Missing belt loop

POCKET AND F LAP

1. Missing or miss located bar tack
2. Wrong placement
3. Insecure opening
4. Pocket zippers and stress points no' as specified

/ bar tacked

CARE LABEL
1. Incorrect fibre content, country of origin, RN number etc.
2. Maintenance instructions do not meet all federal requirements
3. Not caught completely or not sewn securely
4. Missing/incorrect / illegible
5. Incorrectly attached
COMPRESSION ATTACHMENT OF HARDWARE
1. Clasp/snap, rivet which is defective, damaged incorrectly placed or attached
2. Eyelet missing or misplaced
3. Velcro placement closure not within 50% of total area mates
4. Draw cord not free to move as designed
5. Length of drawstring not as specified
6. Ends of drawstrings not secured (missing stopper)
PRINTING DEFECTS
1. Wrong colour, missing colour
2. Miss registered obvious from 6 inch

Page

1. SPI in excess of more than 3 or less than 2 than the specified

2. Ends of stitching (back tacked at least'/. inch/2 or 3 stitches)
3. Open seams more than 1/4 inch. On outside or'/2 inch on inside
4. Any raw edges more than Y4 inch on outside
5. Run off stitch (conspicuous)
6. Needle holes.
7. Seams closure uneven, off more than 1/8 inch

33

STITCHING

8. Seam twisted, puckered or pleated (conspicuous)

9. Poor mending or repairing (conspicuous)
10. Gathered/ bunched stitching
11. Skipped stitch (401), one skipped stitch in a row permitted; no more than 2 occurrences per seam (lock
stitch - 301)
12. Button hole (skipped stitch, cut not securely caught in fabric, incomplete stitch, uncut not aligned)
13. Button not securely sewn, not cross stitched when specified
14. Bar tacks not as specified length, placement, width, stitch count or completely missing.
15. Blind stitch (103,503) excessive pick through 3/32 inch or more, or tight tension causing distortion or
puckering.
16. Beaded stitching (loose top of bobbin thread)
17. Button or button hole not aligned, causing noticeable bulge
18. Conspicuous high/low pockets (A-Zone)
19. F -ant legs uneven off more than 1/4 inch on any fabric
20. Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching (unauthorized stitches)
21. Seams and stitching not as specified type
22. Tight/Loose tension
23. Top stitching not uniform greater than -3/4 inch affecting appearance
24. Permanent needle hole (needle cut, burrs)
25. Seam allowance (All zones) - join seam < 1/2 inch. / Double needle setting < inch. Zipper setting <
inch
FINISHING AND PACKAGING
1. Not pressed / folded / hang / assorted as specified
2. Over pressing or under pressing/poor pressing defects including-shine, colour change, scorching or any
other conspicuous "Hard" pressing defect
1. Labs, tickets, tags, logo, hanger size clip missing/incorrect, illegible or not specified.
2. Item not dry when packed
1. Adhesive labels or adhesive residue visible from 3 inch. (2 inch in any view)
2. Seam should be pressed open
3. Burn or scorch mark
4. Shine marks on the surface of the garment
5. Sweaters pressed out of size
PACKAGING

1. Broken, rough or sharp edges

2. Coating omitted or thickness or coating/plating less than specified

Page

BUCKLES AND SUSPENDER LOOP

34

1. Merchandise folded or packed incorrectly, resulting in poor appearance

2. SKU information on box not same as item in the box
3. Incorrect poly bag, box dimension
4. Size sticker, price tag, hanger, box labelling UPC code etc. incorrectly placed, missing or not as specified
5. Printed information incorrect or missing
6. Poor or improper selling
7. Not packed or assorted as specified
8. Wrong carton marking (shipping mark)

Page

35

3. Wrong colour or metal type

4. Incorrect size or type
1. Oxidized or corroded
2. Misplaced
3. Not attached as specified

Page

36

Defect Classification List (Minor)

Defect Classification List (Minor)

FABRIC
1. Broken yarn (one yarn) zone B/C.
2. Mispick (low contrast) zone C.
3. Barre (low contrast) zone B.
4. Needle hole (which holes do not run / enlarge).
5. Garment s not within specified shade range or shade band.
6. Printing defects:
i) Incomplete coverage of colour.
ii) Design and pattern direction not as specified.
7. Mismatched stripe/ plaid:
i) On side seam or seat seam when requested in construction specification Over Y4 inch
ii) 1i ) On placket or pant fly Over 1/16 inch
iii) On centre front panels or placket Over '/8 inch
iv) On pocket or flaps Over 1/8 inch
v) Skewed, bowed or biased fabric, solid or stripe over 1/2 inch side to side
vi) Shaded parts / thread / or visible components
COMPONENTS AND TRIM
1. Any component not of specified

colour, dimension or appearance

2. Hardware trim misaligned

3. Incorrect position of snaps in excess of 1/8 inch and the specified

3. Untied cord

3. Velcro, placement (closure) not within 75% of total area mates

INTERLINING AND PADS
1. Type of interlining or pad not as specified
2. Misplaced fused interlining or pad location
3. Insecurely attached pad

LABEL
1 Label must be positioned at specified location + 1/4 inch and fully visible
2. Crooked label

STITCHING

Page

1. Outside, Uncut thread over 1/4 inch

2. Inside Uncut thread over 1/2 inch seen hanging below a hem or visible as presented

37

THREADS

1. Topstitching Single or double needle not overlapped, stitch on stitch at start and finish.
2. Poorly objectionably mended (C-zone).
3. Gathering or bunched stitching (B & C zone)
4. Sewn in pleat over 1/4 inch. (C- Zone)
CONSTRUCTION
(FRONT, BACK AND ASSEMBLY DEFECTS)
1. Knitted only Insecure shoulder tape.
2. Fronts are uneven at the bottom in excess of 1/4 inch
3. Uncle- facing shows on the top side of the garment

4. Component to component or joining seams -seam - alignment worse than % Inch

5. Darts uneven in length in excess of % inch
6. Darts poorly shaped with large bubbles at the end
7. Darts not properly located
8. Waistband irregular or not uniform in width in excess of 1/4 inch
9. Right versus left side seam / in seam difference not exceeds 1/4 -1/2 inch
10. Fly that gaps or doesn't lay flat, exposed zipper tape when fly is closed
POCKET DEFECTS
1. Raw edge of pocket not square
2. Corresponding pockets horizontally uneven or misaligned in excess of 1/4 inch
3. Flap and pocket pattern mismatched
4. Weight and colour of pocketing material not according to specification
5. Dog ears at pocket corners, more than 1/8 inch above top of pocket
6. Non-uniform shaped or biased pockets more than 1/4 inch, side to side or top to bottom, noticeable at
arms length
7. Pocket width bigger than flap in excess of 1/8 inch

BELT LOOP DEFECTS

1. Belt locos incorrectly placed in excess of 14 inch.
1. Colour c- shade of loop not as specified

2. Thread colour must be matching unless otherwise specified.

3. Conspicuously crooked belt loop.
4. Width of belt loop more than % inch too wide too narrow.
HEM DEFECTS

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BUTTON/BUTTONHOLE DEFECTS

38

1. Excessively puckered or twisted hem

2. Open hem greater than 1/4 inch
3. Hem uneven, twisted or poorly sewn
4. High/lpN bottom hem difference greater than 1/4 inch side to side, or back to front
5. Lining less than 1/2 inch below top edge of the shell hem turn back

1. Improper button-hole size

2. Ragged edges caused by cut if dull knife causing fabric pulls
3. Thread shade that does not match Specified colour
4. Incompatible density of stitching in relation to the fabric
FINISHING
1. Draw cord length not as specified
2. Odours Offensive odour (Chemical odour)
3. Improper Sealing

SAMPLING TECHNIQUE
The purpose of sampling is to draw correct conclusion about the population from the sample, now if the
sampling is not proper, we may be misguided for taking action on the basis of wrong sampling. Again an
inspector cannot check all the items produced in a factory in the whole day, it will cause more man power,
more cost, more time and more labour. If proper, sampling technique is used to draw sample, it will not
only reduce these factors, will also reduce the monotonousness of the inspector. One of the most
important things of sampling technique is the business of the inspector. Inspector cannot take sample as
per his wish; he must follow the random number table and probability each item to be drawn is equal.
There are various types of sampling of which, sample random sampling, stratified random sampling,
systematic sampling are commonly used.
SIMPLE RANDOM SAMPLING
Simple random sampling is a method of selection n units out of N, such that every one of the Cn samples
has an equal chance of being chosen. It is the simplest type of probability sampling and is the basis of most
of the other sampling methods. In practice a single random sample is drawn unit by unit. I he units of the
population are numbered I to N.A series of random numbers between I and N are drawn with the help of
random number table or computer which produces such table.
USE A RANDOM NUMBER TO SELECT A SAMPLE
Use a random number to select a sample the RAND Corporation of USA has published a random number
table in 1955 in the name " A million random digits with 100000 normal Deviates" To select a sample with
this table, let us consider we have 750 items numbered from 1 to 750 on each item and we want to draw a
sample of size 5. For these purpose we need to select three digits number 001 to 750.
First it is necessary to determine the starting point of the table. The random number table contains 50
rows and 50 columns of digits. We are starting from 8 row 39th column from there the first number is 471,
098, 443, 3351 015 it we arrange them in order then 015, 098, 335, 443, 471. Again we want to select
sample of seize 10 from a population 500, for this we have to select three digit number i.e. from 001 to
500. Let us start from row 30 arid column 11 then our first number will be 732 but it is not in our serial no
so we will exclude it, by going down we will have 752, 640, we will also exclude these.

PRE-SHIPMENT SURVEY BY ACCEPTANCE SAMPLING

Page

Next 268, 454, 013, 201, 017, 194, 361, 452, 419, 312 excluding all the numbers, which are out of serial.
Arranging the numbers in order 013, 017, 194, 201, 268, 312, 361, 419, 452, 454 these are the sample
numbers which we want to select randomly.

39

th

ACCEPTANCE SAMPLING
Acceptance sampling is the art or science that deals with procedures in which decision to accept or reject
lots or process is based on- the examination of samples. 100% inspection is generally not justified because
of time and cost as well as for the shortage of trained manpower. Good sampling inspection, where the
items inspected are examined carefully may even provide. Better assurance of product quality than 100%
inspection with carelessness. The purpose of acceptance sampling is to specify course of action not to
control lot quality.
Acceptance sampling plan merely accepts c, rejects lots. Generally we like to ensure that lots of
manufactured goods do not contain an excessively large portion of defective items. This is achieved mainly
through the technique of sampling inspection. Acceptance sampling has indirect effect on improvement of
quality through its encouragement by high rate of acceptance of good quality and through discouragement
of bad quality by high rate of rejection. It also reduces the risk of rejection of good lots and accepting of
bad lots on the basis of sample.
TERMINOLOGY OF ACCEPTANCE SAMPLING
LOTS SIZE:
Is the number of units in the lot and is denoted by "N"
SAMPLE SIZE:
The number of units in the sample and is denoted by "n"
LOT INSPECTION:
A specific quantity of similar material, or a collection of similar units, offered for inspection and acceptance
at one time.
SAMPLING INSPECTION PLAN:
A specific plan which states (a) the sample size (b) The criteria for accepting, rejecting, or taking another
sample, to be used in inspecting a lot.
ACCEPTANCE NUMBER:
The large number of defectives (or defects) in the sample or samples under consideration that will permit
the acceptance of the inspection lot is called acceptance number, and is denoted by "Ac".
REJECTION NUMBER:

Page

PRODUCER'S RISK:

40

The smallest number of defectives (or defects) in the sample or samples under consideration that will
require the rejection of inspection lot is called rejection number, and is denoted by "Re".

The probability of rejecting a lot under the sampling inspection plan when the fraction defective in the lot
is actually within specified limit is called producer's risk and is denoted by "Pp"
CONSUMER'S RISK:
The probability of accepting a lot with higher fraction defective than the specified limit under the sampling
inspection plan is called consumer's risk and is denoted by "Pc".
SINGLE SAMAPLING INSPECTION PLAN:
Is the sampling inspection plan in which a decision to accept or to reject a lot is reached after the
inspection of a single sample.
PROCESS AVERAGE QUALITY:
Expected quality of products form a given process, usually estimated from first sample inspection results of
past lots.
ACCEPTABLE QUALITY LEVEL:
The maximum per cent defective that, for purpose of sampling inspection, can be considered satisfactory
as a process average is called acceptable quality level anti is denoted by AQL.
PROBABILITY OF ACCEPTANCE:
Probability that a lot or will be accepted is called probability of acceptance and is denoted by "Pa"
OPERATING CHARECTERSTIC CURVE OR O.C. CURVE:
A curve showing the relation between the probabilities of acceptance, either lot quality or process quality,
whichever is applicable is called O.C. CURVE. The stealer the O.C. CURVE, the greater is the protector to the
consumer against accepting a bad lot.
AVERAGE SAMPLE NUMBER:
The expected value of the sample size required for coming to a decision, i.e., for acceptance or rejection of
a lot, under the sampling inspection plan is called average sample number and is denoted by ASN. The
curve obtained by plotting ASN against "P" is called ASN curve. Lower the ASN curve better is the sampling
inspection plan.
MAJOR DEFECT:
A major defect is a defect that is likely to result in failure, or to reduce materially the Liability of the unit of
product for its intended purpose.

Page

A minor defect is a defect that i s not likely to reduce materially the usability of the unit of product for its
intended purpose, or a departure from established standards having little bearing on the effective use or

41

MINOR DEFECT:

operation of the unit. Minor defects may be classified into two categories; more important minor defects
may be designated as Minor "A" and less important ones, Minor "B"
CRITORIA FOR SHIFTING TO TIGHTENED INSPECTION:
When normal inspection is on effect, tightened inspection to be instituted when 2 out of 5 consecutive lots
or batches have been rejected on original inspection.
CRITORIA FOR SHIFTING TO NORMAL INSPECTION FROM TIGHTENED
INSPECTION:
When tightened inspection is in effect, normal inspection shall be instituted when 5 consecutive lots or
batches have been considered acceptable on original inspection, criteria for shifter to reduced inspection
When normal inspection is on effect, reduced inspection maybe institute when,
(a) The preceding 10 lots or batches have been on normal inspection and has been accepted on original
inspection.
(b) The total number of defects in the samples from the preceding 10 lots or batches are equal to or less
than the desired level.
(c) Production is at a steady rate.
(d) Reduced inspection is considered desirable by the responsible authority.

CRITERIA FOR SHIFTING TO NORMAL INSPECTION FROM REDUCED

INSPECTION:

Page

42

When reduced inspection is on effect, normal inspection must be reinstated whenever a lot or batch is
rejected or production becomes in e-regular or delayed or other conditions warrant that normal inspection
shall be instituted.

Page

43

Control of Non-Conforming Products

Control of Non-Conforming Products

Section 6
PURPOSE
To prevent the dispatch of non-conforming products to the customer
SCOPE
This section applies to the products which do not conform the require quality
ACTIVITIES
Non-conforming goods are identified during the checking of receiving section. Process inspection or final
inspection:

44

When a major non-conformance is discovered i.e. (one that requires a managerial/executive

decision regarding its disposition) it is so identified and segregated," subject to the appropriate
management decision, the defective goods are reworked, accepted on concession, re-graded or
rejected.
Where appropriate, the customer is consulted concerning any concession.

Page

Garment Taken

Page

45

PETERENGLAND Formal Trouser

Sampling of Formal Trouser

Parameters
1.

No. of samples asked for size including counters

In Proto Sample
3-5in 32 Size
1-3 sample Buyer
1 sample counter
1-2 merchandiser counter

In fit Sample
3-5 in 32 Size
1-3 sample Buyer
1 sample counter
1-2 merchandiser counter
In Size set
3-5 in 32 Size
1-2 sample Buyer
1 sample counter
1-2 merchandiser counter
In Pre-production
3-5 in 32 Size
1-3 sample Buyer
1 sample counter
1-2 merchandiser counter

Page

3-5 in 32 Size
1-3 sample Buyer
1 sample counter
1-2 merchandiser counter

46

In Design sample

Fabric Used
Cotton (2-ply Superfine Satin)
1. Actual trims like, buttons used - 3
On waist band
2-on side pocket & one back pocket
Zipper used
2. What actually being checked
In Proto Sample
Styling
Pattern
Measurements
Construction
In fit Sample
Measurements
Fit
Constructional features
Type of stitching & quality
Position of accessories
In size set
Measurements
Fit
Constructional features
Type of stitching & quality
Position of accessories

Page

47

In pre-production
Reference sample for the production
3. Comment sent by -mail
4. The process be eliminated altogether, depends upon buyer requirement

Comment from buyer for different sampling stage till pre-production can be
categorized under following heads
Style Details
Measurement
Fit
Design comment:
Type and position of trims
Shape of critical areas like packet
Construction features:

Page

48

Type of stitches
Quality of stitches
Quality of seams

Page

49

Front View

Page

50

Back View

Parts of Formal Trouser

Position from Waist band 0, from side seam 6.2

Position from Waist band 0, from side seam 0

Position from Waist band 2.5, from side seam 1.2

On the right side of the fly below the waist band

1.5 inch below from waist band
Right side of the front part inside

51

1.5
28
9
6
1.6
6.8
21.5
18
4.9*0.4
14
7.2*5
2.2*0.5
9.7*6.7
7
0.5*0.5
1.1*0.5
1.5*1.2
40

Page

Waist band width

Waist band
Front raise
Fly length
Fly width
Pocket opening
Thai width
Leg opening
Welt
Back raise
Back pocket
Belt loop
Pocket bag
Zipper length
Size label
Brand label
Wash care label
Total length

Page

52

Conclusion

Conclusion

Page

53

Quality has always been a primary requirement and considers being the life of a garment. There is no
denying the fact that we have been following Quality Control System in the production process since its
birth but there might have been differences in those applications in factories. Compiling this quality
manual is a humble effort to put almost all necessary details of Quality Control System to ensure that all
our factories have a written Manual/ Guideline in black and white to follow. In the beginning we will not
concentrate on the statistical Quality Control System. We will follow this after a while when we have
enough and required manpower to exercise that. Any positive inclusion in this manual which will help the
factories in improving quality is always welcome; but has to done with prior approval from the Managing
Director. We all need to educate and train our work force in line with this Quality Manual to try and
streamline our quality system. Our united and sincere effort only can help to improve in the sector of
quality.