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How To Install A Light Fixture

This document provides instructions for installing a new light fixture, including: 1) Checking local codes and scheduling inspections. 2) Choosing the appropriate fixture type and bulb for the space. 3) Determining voltage and current requirements. 4) Locating a suitable power source near the installation location. 5) Planning the wiring route between the power source, switches, and fixture.

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Marc Riomalos
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289 views5 pages

How To Install A Light Fixture

This document provides instructions for installing a new light fixture, including: 1) Checking local codes and scheduling inspections. 2) Choosing the appropriate fixture type and bulb for the space. 3) Determining voltage and current requirements. 4) Locating a suitable power source near the installation location. 5) Planning the wiring route between the power source, switches, and fixture.

Uploaded by

Marc Riomalos
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as DOCX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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How to Install a Light Fixture

Part 1 of 2: Planning the Project

1. Heck your local wiring codes and schedule inspections. Several


inspections and permits are required for most residential construction
projects, especially when it involves electrical work.[1] To make sure
you're up to code, you may need to schedule the following with the
Housing Administration in your city or country:
- A Temporary Service Inspection
- Rough-in inspection
- Final inspection
- Even if you're not doing it yourself, any electrical work done by a
subcontractor needs to be be inspected (usually both rough in an
finals) for example - well pumps, or external wood fired furnaces.
2. Decide what type of fixture will work best in the area youre trying to
illuminate. You wouldn't want to light up a workshop in the same way
you'd light up a nursery, or a kitchen the same way you'd light living
room. Think about the purpose of the room to determine where and
how you'll light it. Is it a place for sitting and reading quietly? A sconce
or wall-mounted fixture might be most appropriate.
For most jobs, you'll be working with one of a few different locations for a
new fixture. Typically, you'll install fixtures in the wall, in the ceiling, or in a
pole mount.
3. Decide what kind of bulb you want for your fixture. Incandescent,
fluorescent and halogen are among the most common choices, each
with its own unique tone or color. The tones and varieties of bulbs are
expressed as a temperature, in degrees Kelvin. Warm tones have lower
temperature (2000) while cool tones have higher temperatures
(8300).
If youre looking for more intimate or relaxing, go for warm white. Around
2700 degrees would be appropriate for the purpose.
If you're looking for a work light, cool white or daylight is better. These bulbs
are around 4000 degrees.
When changing a bulb, you should obtain one with the same temperature
light, otherwise colors in the room will be cooler or warmer depending on the
tone of the light source. This is even more noticeable if there are two or more
adjacent lamps of different temperatures.
4. Determine voltage and current requirements for the fixture. The fixture
must operate on a voltage available at the location. Nearly all fixtures
available at home centers will be the 120-volt variety or have the
ability to choose from two or more voltages by connecting specific
wires and leaving others disconnected.
Current requirements for 120 volt incandescent fixtures (this includes
tungsten, quartz, halogen) is .83 amps per 100 watts. A 100 watt fixture can
usually be added to existing circuits without incident. Most fixtures will list a
wattage or amperage requirement to avoid overloading the circuit.
5. Locate a suitable power source. Find a nearby outlet or an existing
junction box in the ceiling that's close enough to branch out from. If a
suitable power source isn't easily available, you might have to run a
new branch from the electrical panel.
It's important to find suitable power sources that are close by. It's unlikely
that you'll be able to use the basement electrical source to feed a switch on

the third floor to operate a fixture that illuminates the front sidewalk. That's a
lot of wiring.
6. Plan the wiring route. There are three possible ways to wire the circuit
for a new installation. Power to switch, power to fixture and installing
the power and load point at same switch. The three points, source,
switch and fixture need to be connected together all with simple twowire Romex cable when there is one switch controlling the fixture.
If you're wiring multiple switches to multiple fixtures, it's important to
separate your wring systems to keep them straight. The fixtures need to be
wired to each other with a two-wire cable, and the switches need to be wired
to each other with a three-wire cable.
The power source can be brought to either of the three-way switch boxes, or
any fixture box with two-wire cable. The cable between the switch and
fixture(s) is also 2 wire type, but must be run from either three way switch
box to the fixture box that has the power source. Do not deviate from the
requirement.

Part 2 of 2: Installing the Fixture


1. Cut openings for the wiring. Cut openings into the ceiling, or wall
surfaces for the boxes, for the switch(es), and for the fixture support by
first tracing around the box on the wall or ceiling surface. Be sure to
match the switch box height to those in the rest of your home.
If a fixture is to be installed in the ceiling, the box should be a 4" octagon
box. It is important to note that even if a small light fixture is planned to be
installed here, consider installing a fan-rated box, as a paddle fan might be
installed here in the future.
If installing recessed light fixtures, no box is installed as a wiring
compartment is provided on the fixture itself. The open to be cut in the
ceiling is provided by the template included with the fixture by most
manufacturers or by tracing around the rough-in housing opening.
2. Install the wiring. Install the Romex or other cable between the power
source and boxes in the voids of the walls, ceilings, and floors with a
snake or fish tape. After determining there is enough ampacity in the
circuit to support the additional load, extend wiring of the same size
from the power source to the switch and fixture locations. If running a
new circuit directly from the electrical panel, the new wire should be
sized according to the fuse or circuit breaker size.
3. Make sure your wiring is up to code. National Electrical Code
Requirements for wiring need to be followed closely when you're
installing a new fixture. When you're selecting wire for the job, make
sure it fits the following constraints:
A wire smaller than #14 copper is not permitted for power wiring. Smaller
wires (#28 through #16) are permitted for low voltage applications such as
thermostats and zone valves in gas & oil fired heating systems, door bells
and buttons, alarm systems, telephones, networking, etc. These wires never
enter electrical panels.
A 15 amp circuit breaker or fuse should have no less than a #14 gauge
copper wire connected. A 15 amp circuit is designed to safely carry up to 12
amps continuously on a #14 copper wire. Intermittent loads of up to 15
amps can be carrier for up to several hours. If the load of any device or

appliance is greater than 12 amps, a larger size wire and circuit breaker is
required.
A 20 amp circuit breaker or fuse should have no less than a #12 gauge
copper wire connected. A 20 amp circuit is designed to safely carry up to 16
amps continuously on a #12 copper wire. Intermittent loads of up to 20
amps can be carrier for up to several hours. If the load of any device or appl
iance is greater than 16 amps, a larger wire and circuit breaker is
required.

4. Connect the devices as shown in the diagram that matches your application.
If you'd prefer to follow detailed instructions to wire the fixture to just two 3way switches.

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