CT-MMB.

720

Quilting
A quilt is defined as two layers of fabric with a
filler layer in between. The layers are sewn
together either by hand or machine. Quilt tops
may be whole cloth or patchwork, appliqued
or pieced. Once the top has been completed,
it is ready to assemble into a quilt.

TRANSFERING THE QUILT DESIGN

There are many methods as well as marking
tools available for use on quilts. Choose
markers that will produce a thin, light line.
When selecting, make test marks on scrap
fabric to check for visibility and ease of
removal if necessary.
Marking lines should never be visible on your
finished project. A No. 2 lead pencil works
well on light-colored fabric. Keep pencil
sharpened throughout the marking process.
White or yellow chalk marking pencils are
recommended for dark colored fabrics.

Tracing
This method works best with light-colored
fabric and allows all designs on the quilt top
to be marked prior to basting the quilt
together.
Select a quilting design. If necessary, darkly
trace onto paper so that designs show
through when fabric is positioned over it. A
light source placed under the design can help
to make it more visible. A light box or sunny
window works well. To create a light box,
place a lamp (shade removed) under a glass
top table. Tape the paper pattern to the glass
top. Place the fabric area to be marked over
the pattern and trace with a pencil.
Reposition fabric as needed to complete
design transfer. Mark fabric with a thin, light
line. Markings should not be visible on
finished project.

Stencil or Template
There are other transfer methods available
that allow the quilt to be marked AFTER it is
basted.
Stencils or templates can be used for this
purpose and work well on darker fabrics.
Also, marking designs just before quilting
keeps lines from fading out or rubbing off.
Plastic stencils can be purchased with precut
slits forming design. Simply position stencil
over fabric area to be quilted and mark
through the slit openings to transfer pattern.
Mark dark fabric with white or yellow pencil;
light fabric with No. 2 pencil, pumice powder
or chalk.
Sheets of blank template plastic or lightweight
cardboard can be used for creating original
designs. Transfer designs onto template and
use scissors to cut out shape. Position this
template on quilt surface and lightly trace on
fabric, then quilt area.
Precut paper patterns can also be purchased.
These can be used repeatedly 20 to 40 times.

Freezer Paper
Freezer paper makes an excellent,
inexpensive template. Place freezer paper,
dull side up, over design and trace. Cut out
freezer paper shape and place waxy side of
template against fabric. Apply hot, dry iron
two to three seconds over paper. The waxy
side of the paper temporarily adheres to the
fabric. Trace around paper. After marking
shape, peel off fabric and reposition for
multiple markings.

Masking Tape
Masking tape can be used on fabric for
straight-line quilting. Position the tape on the
fabric and hand- or machine-quilt next to the
tapes edge. Tape can be removed and
repositioned over and over.

There are lots of quilting designs to be found in quilting books and quilting stores. Below are some
examples of designs that may be used for both hand and machine quilting. Another option is to
quilt in the ditch. This method requires no additional markings as the stitching is done in the seam
lines of the pieced top.

Continuous Line Quilting

Continuous line patterns are designed specifically for machine quilting and to allow the quilter to
stitch continuously without having to stop the machine and start again. These are the easiest to do
with free motion machine quilting (free form).

BASTING
Basting temporarily secures three layers
together so they can be handled while
quilting. It is often done with long hand
stitches but sometimes with safety pins.
A quilt is made up of three layers forming a
quilt sandwich as shown below:

Option 1: Hand Baste

For hand basting, use white, all-purpose
thread with a long needle or curved basting
needle. Put several
yards of thread on
your needle.
Basting stitches
should be at 4- to 6inch intervals.
Option 2: Pin Baste
Pin-baste the three layers together with
safety pins. This method is preferred for
machine quilting. Space pins at 4-inch
intervals to avoid fabric shifting. Remove
safety pins from quilting areas as you stitch.

Quilting Top

Batting
Backing

Before layering and hand-basting quilt,

make sure all layers are smooth, seams
pressed, and loose threads clipped from
quilt top.
Cut backing fabric 2 to 4 inches larger than
the quilt top on all four sides. A large
project may require one or two seams on
the quilt back as shown next.

Option 3: Basting Sprays

Spray adhesives are available that work
great for basting layers together. For light
applications, spray adhesive above fabric
surface and allow the spray to fall down
onto the surface. Position next layer and
repeat.
Option 4: Basting Gun
This requires the purchase of plastic "tacks"
that go in the gun. Quilt layers are tacked
together at 4- to 6- inch intervals.

HAND QUILTING

One Seam

Two Seams

Lay backing on work surface, such as

table(s) or floor, with wrong side facing up.
Smooth the surface and square all corners.
Masking tape can be used on corners and
sides to hold in place while basting. Center
batting on backing wrong side. Smooth the
batting in place being careful not to stretch.
Finally, center the quilt top face up, on the
batting.

The quilting hoop is a piece of equipment

used to hold a small portion of the quilt
smooth and taut while the design is being
sewn in place. It offers a more portable and
compact way of quilting in place of the floor
quilting frame.
Quilt hoops are usually constructed of wood
and are available in various sizes and
shapes. Quilt hoops are larger than
embroidery hoops and are constructed with
wider bands to accommodate the extra bulk
of the three quilt layers. The quilt hoop
consists of two parts:
1. Inner hoop
2. Outer hoop

The project should be hand basted before

placing it in the quilt hoop. (See basting
information in this handout.)
Begin quilting in the center of your project
and work out to the edges.
Center the inner hoop under area to be
quilted. Place outer hoop over basted quilt,
slipping it down into place, and tighten.
Quilting surface should be smooth. Turn
hoop over and smooth out any wrinkles in
the backing. Retighten after final
adjustments.
Reposition hoop, as needed, to expose new
areas to be quilted. To remove hoop,
simply disassemble.

threaded with the opposite end of the

thread, it will tangle more often.
Knotting the Thread
Tie a small knot at the end of the thread.
Place the end of the thread along the
needle with its end pointing toward the
hand. Pinch this end of the thread and the
needle with the needle hand. With the other
hand, wrap the thread around the needle
twice. Squeeze the wrapped thread tightly
with the pointing finger and thumb of the
needle hand. Pull the wrapped thread to
the end of the thread to complete the knot.
There will be a little tail of thread below the
knot that will need to be clipped off.

Do not leave the quilt hooped for long

periods of time. Remove hoop after each
quilting session to avoid unnecessary ring
impressions in your fabric.
It is necessary to use a thimble while hand
quilting. A thimble is a metal protective
cap/guard used in sewing to protect the
finger when pushing the needle. A quilting
thimble has a raised edged with dimples on
both the top and the sides that are deeply
recessed to keep needle from slipping off.
There are many different kinds of thimbles
on the market. However, the quilting or
tailors thimble is recommended for
beginners. More experienced quilters may
wish to explore other thimble possibilities.
Quilting needles are called betweens. Use
a size 8, 10, or 12 between for hand
quilting.
Betweens are short hand sewing needles. A
higher number indicates a smaller needle.
Different kinds of fabric will determine which
size is best.

THE HAND QUILTING STITCH

Threading the Quilting Needle
Pull about 18-inches of quilting thread from
the spool and thread the needle. Then cut
the 18-inch length of thread from the spool.
This ensures that the thread is used as it
comes from the spool. If the needle is

Choose a spot on the quilt about 1 inch from

the spot where quilting will begin. Stick the
needle through the top layer of the quilt
sandwich and into the batting. Without
going through the bottom layer of the quilt
sandwich, run the needle through the
batting to the spot where quilting will start.

Pull the thread through and give the knot a

little tug. This will pop the knot into the
batting.

Stitching

Touch the point of the needle to the quilt top

in the place where quilting will start. Hold
the needle straight up and down with the
thimble that has been placed on the middle
finger of the hand that you use most (right
or left). Put the other hand under the quilt
and place the middle finger of this hand
where the needle point is. The point of the
needle should be barely felt with this finger.
Put the thumb of the top hand about inch
in front of the needle. Press down hard on
the quilt top with the thumb. At the same
time, push the needle through the mound
that has been created with the thumb on the
top and the middle finger on the bottom.

the needle might come unthreaded. Begin

another set of quilting stitches. This is
referred to as the rocking stitch.
Place the needle point where the next stitch
will begin. This should be the distance of
one quilt stitch from where the thread
comes out of the top from the last run of
quilting stitches.
Try to keep the length of the quilting stitches
even. In the beginning it is not as important
to have tiny stitches, as it is to have each
stitch exactly the length of the others. A
good number of stitches to aim for are six
stitches per inch. It will take a lot of practice
to do this. Some really great quilters can
get as many as 10 to 12 stitches per inch.
Traveling

When hand quilting, position the bottom hand

so the middle finger will feel the tip of the needle
as well as push up the quilt mound.

As soon as the point of the needle comes

out of the top of the mound, stop pushing
and rock the needle to a straight up and
down position again. There should be one
little stitch on the needle. Gently push the
needle through the sandwich until it is
barely felt with the under middle finger, and
begin the steps again for the second stitch.
This should be practiced until it is possible
to get at least three stitches on the needle
at a time. After there are three or four
stitches on the needle, pull the needle all of
the way through and pull the thread gently
until the stitches lay flat. Be sure to pinch
the thread at the needle eye while pulling or

Traveling is a way of getting from one

quilting section to another. This technique is
recommended for going between areas that
are 2 inches or closer together. Be sure to
have plenty of thread remaining in the
needle. Run needle through the batting only
until it reaches the next starting point. If the
area is more than the length of the needle,
bring needle up through the quilt surface
leaving the eye in the fabric. While holding
the needle, pivot eye end in the direction of
the next point. With thimble against the
point of the needle, push needle back into
batting, eye first towards new quilting line. If
you have reached the new quilting line,
bring needle through surface fabric and
continue with the quilting stitch. Otherwise,
pivot needle again and continue until you
reach the new quilting line.
Ending the Thread
When there is about 5 or 6 inches of thread
left on the needle, it is time to tie off the
thread and start with a new 18-inch length
of thread. Make a circle with the thread on
top of the quilt.

Bring the needle up through that circle.

Hold the circle down with your finger while
pulling the threaded needle to make the
circle smaller and smaller. Try to get the
knot to form about inch from the quilt top.
Insert the quilting needle back into the same
hole from which the thread is coming out of
the quilt top. Do not make the needle come
out the back but run it through the batting
and out on top again about an inch or so
away, and tug on the thread gently until the
knot pops through the quilt top. Cut the
thread close to the top and the thread end
will disappear into the batting.
Another way to end a thread is to weave the
needle back and forth through the stitches
that have already been stitched. Do this by
pushing the point and eye of the needle
back and forth through the quilting stitches,
never completely removing the needle from
the quilt top.

support the quilting project, especially if the

project is large.
Preparations
The machine quilt project needs to be
basted more closely than with hand quilting.
(Refer to Basting section of this handout).
The quilt will be manipulated and handled
more while being machine quilted than with
hand quilting. Fabrics are more likely to
shift and wrinkle if it is not basted closely.
Choose a sewing machine needle that is
appropriate for the fabric in the quilt. For
cotton fabric and mid-loft batting, a # 12/80
is suggested. Use cotton thread that will
match the quilt. If the quilt has many
different colors, as most do, choose a color
that coordinates/matches one of the colors.
It is good to choose a thread color that will
disappear or blend into the backing fabric.
White is almost always acceptable. Clear,
transparent nylon thread is also an option
for machine quilting. For accent quilting,
choose a contrasting or decorative thread.
If the sewing machine has the optional
needle down feature, be sure to use it. If it
does not, always try to end the stitching with
the needle in the down position. This
ensures straight quilting lines.
Practice sewing on scraps of the quilt
sandwiches before starting to quilt the
actual project itself.
Start the machine quilting in the center of
the quilt and work out towards the edge. If
the quilt is very large, it will be necessary to
roll up both sides and slip one rolled side
under the arm of the machine.

MACHINE QUILTING
Machine quilting is much faster than hand
quilting and can be very enjoyable.
Work Area
It is important to have a good chair,
preferably one that supports the back well.
The sewing machine needs to be at a
comfortable height and on or adjacent to a
large-sized table with plenty of room to

Position quilt under the presser foot and

bring the bobbin thread to the surface of the
machine. To do this, hold the top/needle
thread and lower the needle into the
machine. Bring the needle up again and
gently tug on the thread to bring
bobbin/lower thread loop to the surface.
Pull the bobbin thread all the way out to the
top.

presser foot. Use a light touch. Dont move

the batting or the back, just the quilt top.

Hold both threads with your left hand as you

begin to stitch just for a couple of small
stitches to prevent loose thread ends from
tangling underneath your stitching.

As you sew, coax the bubble under the foot,

but do not create a tuck! Use fingertips
constantly to help the top layer of fabric feed
smoothly under the foot. It is a small
movement that will become automatic with
practice. Doing this nudging action
correctly, will prevent pleats on the quilt top
when crossing lines of quilt stitching.

KINDS OF MACHINE QUILTING

There are two kinds of machine quilting.

Machine guided
Free motion (Free Form)

Machine Guided Quilting

Set the machine for a straight stitch with an
average stitch length of 2.0 to 2.5mm (12
stitches per inch). Sometimes it is
necessary to reduce the pressure on the
presser foot because of the thickness of the
three layers of the quilt. Some sewing
machines will do this automatically; others
have to be adjusted. Read and follow your
sewing machine manual.
If possible, use a machine walking foot for
quilting to assist in guiding and moving the
fabric through the machine. This foot
moves the top layer of the quilt through the
machine at the same rate that the feed dog
(teeth) moves the lower layer through the
machine. This prevents tucks from
happening at the intersections of the
quilting.
If a walking foot is not available, there is a
trick that can be used. Place your hands in
front of the presser foot with fingertips
together and elbows out. Fingers should be
about 2 inches in front of the foot. Slide
your fingertips across the top layer of the
quilt, toward the presser foot, until there is a
small bubble between fingertips and the

In preparation for stitching, be sure both the

spool and bobbin threads are loose (not
tangled) and to the back and left of the
needle.

Lower the presser foot where you want

to start quilting.

Begin and end each row of stitches with

a knot to keep the stitching from
coming loose. The best way to do this
is to shorten the stitch length to1.5 to
2.0 mm (15-16 stitches per inch) and
stitch 7 to 8 stitches. Remember to
reset the stitch length after making the
knot at the start.

Unroll and re-roll the quilt as stitching

progresses. It is important to keep the
quilt neatly controlled while stitching.
Do not get in a hurry!

When ending machine quilting, shorten

the stitch length again for 7 to 8 stitches

to make an ending knot (Remember to

reset the stitch length each time after
making a knot.)

moves as the sewer guides it. Place

hands in a C-shape around the presser
foot, and press down gently to move the
quilt layers.

Try to keep the amount of quilting in each

area of the piece the same. If one area is
heavily quilted and another has very little
quilting, the quilt will become wavy and
crooked.
Free Motion Quilting (free form)
When doing free-motion quilting, manually
lower the sewing machine feed dog (the
teeth) and attach a darning foot. Refer to
your sewing machine manual. The darning
foot is an attachment that usually comes
with the machine. When the feed dog is
lowered, the machine has no control over
where the machine is stitching. The sewer
has all the control. Free motion sewing is
more like drawing than sewing. Practice is
important to get the feel of the operation,
and to manipulate the fabric consistently.
Before starting to stitch, it is important to
lower the presser foot (this engages the
tension control on your upper thread) and to
use the needle down position on the
machine, if this option is available on your
machine. If not, manually lower the needle
down into the fabric when stopping the
machine.
To begin stitching, make sure bobbin thread
has been pulled to the top side and both
threads are loose and to the back and to the
left of the needle.

Lower the presser foot at the stitching

Sew at a medium, even speed as the

fabric is moved. The stitch length
should be the same size as the machine
guided stitches.

Knot at the end of the stitching line the

same as in the beginning.

To move to a new spot, lift the presser

foot and move the quilt to the next
design. It is not necessary to cut the
threads; it can be done later.
Remember to lower the presser foot and
needle and begin again with a new
knot.

It is important to keep the quilt in control.

Unrolling and re-rolling as needed.
Take your time and dont hurry.

Specially designed quilting gloves are

available that will help your hands grip
the fabric while quilting. Using these
gloves may reduce stress on hands and
shoulders.

point.

Take very small stitches at the

beginning for the first 7 to 8 stitches to
lock/secure threads. Thread ends can
be clipped next to the surface of the
fabric later.

Change stitch length back to regular

machine stitch (approximately 12
stitches per inch) and resume stitching.
Follow the predetermined quilting
design. The sewer is in complete
control of the stitch size. The fabric

FINISHING TECHNIQUES
Joining Prequilted Blocks
This technique is commonly referred to as
Quilt as You Go or Lap Quilting. Each
block is machine or hand quilted
individually, then joined together to build an
entire quilt. Quilters, who want a portable,
take along project; suitable for vacation
travel or lunch-hour quilting, prefer this
method.

Place two prequilted blocks right sides

together. Pin the batting and backing on
each block away from the seam to be sewn.
The fronts of the two blocks may now be
pinned and machine or hand stitched with
-inch seam allowance.

Open
out the joined blocks face down. Fingerpress the seam allowance to one side, and
remove pins to release the batting only.
Bring the batting together and trim so that
the edges butt together with no overlapping.
A large hand stitch (cross stitch or
whipstitch) can be used to join butted edges
of the batting together.

Self-finished Edge
A turned-under hem may be used to finish
the raw edge of the fabric. This creates a
false binding. Trim batting even with quilt
top. Trim backing fabric 1-inch wider than
quilt top. Turn in the raw edge 1/2-inch and
press. Bring folded edge over edge to
cover batting and quilt top raw edge.
Machine or hand stitch along the folded
edge. Quilt top may also be cut wider than
backing and folded to the back of the quilt.

Turned under and stitched

Fringing
Fringing is pulling out threads in a seam
allowance to form a raveled edge.
Begin by machine stitching along the
marked line of the project with a straight
stitch. Stitch length should be reduced to a
short stitch. To form fringe, unravel the
fabric edges all the way up to the stitching
line.

Cross Stitch
Remove pins from one side of the backing
and smooth flat over the batting. Turn
under -inch seam allowance along edge of
the upper most backing piece. Pin and slip
stitch folded edge to lower backing piece
with matching thread.

Some fabrics do not fringe easily. If this is

the case, make cuts with scissors every two
inches or so, just up to the stitching line.
Take care not to cut into the stitching line.
With a pin or needle, fringe small sections
by pulling out horizontal threads.

Slip stitch

BINDING
Continue to join blocks together to form
rows. Once all rows are formed, they can
be connected using this technique.

Binding encloses the fabric and batting of

the outer edge of the quilt to create a
finished edge. There are many types of

binding and various methods of application.

Binding can be purchased or made from
project fabric matching your quilt top.

Trim -inch seam allowance and press

seam open.

Straight-grain binding (single or double

folded) is suitable for any project unless you
are binding curved or scalloped edges.
Curves require bias binding, which stretches
for a smooth, pucker-free finished edge.
Binding can be applied several ways, such
as in one long continuous strip with mitered
corners. Or each binding strip can be sewn
in place separately producing overlapped
finished corners. In addition, bias or
straight-grain strips can be made in single
or double thickness.

Trim seam

For directions on cutting continuous bias

strips to be used for binding see:
CT-MMB.723 Continuous Bias Strips.
Fold binding in half lengthwise and press.

Before applying binding, hand or machine

baste around project close to edge and
within the -inch seam allowance. If
hanging sleeve is to be sewn into binding,
see instructions at the end.

The folded edge provides a smooth, straight

edge that can be easily stitched to the quilt
back.

Double Folded Binding

Mitered Corner Application

Following are instructions for double folded

binding. Cut strips of binding 2 inches
wide. (This width may be adjusted for wider
binding and/or thicker quilts. Always do a
text sample before cutting all the strips.) Cut
enough strips to go around outside edges of
quilt plus a few extra inches to allow for
joining. Piecing can be avoided by cutting
strips on the lengthwise of the fabric and
makes for a firmer binding. When joining
strips together, join on the diagonal to
distribute bulk.

1. Using an even-feed or walking foot will

aid in sewing binding to the quilt top.
Start stitching the unpressed edge of the
binding to the right side of the quilt top
at a point along one side. Do not start in
a corner or the exact middle. Start your
stitching about 4 inches from beginning
end of binding. Stitch up to inch from
the corner of the quilt. Pivot and stitch
out to corner.

To join two strips, position strips

perpendicular to each other, right sides
facing, and stitch a diagonal joining seam.

2. Lift presser foot and fold

binding up along the diagonal
stitching. This creates a miter.
Binding strip wrong side up

Diagonal joining of seam

Lapped Corner Application

3. Fold binding straight down, lining up
edges. Continue stitching to next corner
as before and around remaining quilt
sides.

Following are instructions for straight-grain,

double folded binding with lapped corners.
This method allows binding to be attached
in four separate stripsone for each side of
the quilt. The corners are trimmed, folded
in, and sewn in place.
1. Hand or machine baste around project
close to edge and within the -inch
seam allowance.

4. When you come around to the starting

point, fold back binding and overlap or
stitch the two binding ends together.
5. To stitch the ends together stop stitching
approximately 8 inches from where
beginning stitches started.

2. Determine amount of binding needed by

measuring each side of project. Cut
binding strips 2 inches wide selvage to
selvage. Each strip should be cut
approximately 4-inches longer than quilt
length or width allowing for a 2-inch
overhang at each corner. Opposite
sides should have equal length binding
strips.
3. Join strips diagonally as previously
decided.

6. Open out binding and form 45o angle

folds; crease folds.

4. Fold binding strip in half to find midpoint. With raw edges of binding and
quilt edges together, match midpoints of
binding and quilt top. Pin in place with
binding extending 2 inches beyond quilt
edge. Using -inch seam, machine
stitch from corner to corner. Backstitch
at each end. Repeat procedure,
stitching binding to opposite side of quilt.
Trim excess binding, backing, and
batting even with quilt top.

Quilt Top
7. Open out diagonal folds. With right sides
facing, match fold lines. Sew along
diagonal creases. Trim seam allowance
to inch and press open. Refold
binding and stitch remaining area in
place.

10

5. Turn folded edge of binding over to quilt

back, pin, and hand finish with a blind
stitch covering previous line of machine
stitches.

If available, the hanging sleeve should be

constructed of the same fabric as the
backing.

Option 1: Hand sewn to finished quilt

Quilt Back

6. Machine stitch binding strips to quilt top

on remaining two sides leaving 2-inch
over hang on each corner. Trim end of
binding to -inch and fold trimmed edge
in over previously applied binding.

Quilt Back

7. Turn folded binding edge to quilt back;

pin, and hand finish with blind stitch
covering previous line of machine
stitches. Extra stitches may be needed
to secure corners.

HANGING SLEEVE

1. To make a 4-inch sleeve, cut an 8

inch wide strip of fabric that is 2 inches
shorter than the width of your quilt.

8-inches

Finished binding

2. Fold in half lengthwise, right sides

together, and stitch a -inch seam
allowance.

3. Press seam allowance together and to

one side. Hem sleeve ends by folding in
raw edges and stitching. Turn sleeve to
right side, and press the full length of
sleeve to flatten, creating a top and
bottom fold.

4. Center and pin sleeve to quilt back just

below edge of finished binding. Blind
stitch in place along folded edges and
ends of sleeve, taking care not to catch
stitches in quilt top.

A hanging sleeve is a fabric tube attached

to the quilt back, allowing it to be hung by
an inserted rod. It should be applied after
all quilting is complete. The sleeve can be
added in conjunction with the binding
application or hand sewn to a finished
project.

11

Option 2: Sleeve added in conjunction

with binding application
1. To make a 4-inch sleeve, cut an 8
inch wide strip of fabric that is 2 inches
shorter than the width of your quilt.

3. Center and pin sleeve to quilt back.

Raw edges of sleeve should meet
raw edges of quilt top. Machinebaste in place with scant -inch
seam allowance. Blind stitch bottom
fold and ends of sleeve by hand.
Take care not to catch stitches in
quilt top.

8 inches

Quilt Back

Quilt Back

2. Hem sleeve ends with inch seam

allowance. Fold in half lengthwise,
with wrong sides together and raw
edges meeting.
4. Proceed with binding application.
Hem the ends

Press sleeve to flatten and crease

bottom fold.
Meet raw edges

Press and fold

References:
Nita Benson, Kentucky Certified Master Clothing Volunteer
Karen Mikel, Kentucky Certified Master Clothing Volunteer
Judy Hetterman, County Extension Agent for Family and Consumer Sciences
Prepared by Marjorie M. Baker, M.S.
Extension Associate for Textiles and Clothing
April/2005
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.

12