Nuts&Bolts Signed

Originally Published in Xtreme Offroad Magazine Issue #1
Copyright 2005 BillaVista Offroad Tech All Rights Reserved
Fastener Tech the

Nuts and Bolts of it
By Bill BillaVista Ansell
Photography: Bill Ansell
Technical drawings: Lonny Handwork
Why an Article on a Topic as Simple as
Nuts and Bolts?
Because an understanding of fastener tech
forms a solid foundation for all extreme offroad tech. Its a great place to start from the
ground up. Much of what we do as builders
and maintainers of off-road vehicles is strictly
custom, often one-off, stuff.
We dont have the luxury of detailed instructions or the benefit of a major manufacturers years of
engineering and research. In short, were on our own so we need to have a good solid understanding of
fastener tech in order to answer questions such as: What size and type of thread should we use to attach
our custom suspension links? What type of locking mechanism should we use on our beadlock wheels?
Should we use studs or bolts to attach our steering arms to the knuckles?
Bolts
The basic parts of a bolt are:
Head commonly sized 4/16ths larger than the nominal size of the bolt (diameter of the shank).
For example, a inch bolt has a head that takes a inch socket.
Bearing Surface machined true and perpendicular to the shank, the bearing surface is the area
through which the bolt is loaded in tension.
Shank unthreaded portion of the bolt. Its diameter is the nominal size of the bolt (equal to major
diameter of thread).
Male Threads the threads on a bolt, screw, or stud are known as male, those on a nut or
tapped hole are female.
Point the extreme end of the threads, often chamfered for easier thread starting.
Grip Length the length from the bearing surface to first complete thread.
Thread length how much of the shank is threaded from point to last complete thread.
Length the total length of the bolt (the dimension you specify when purchasing) is the total of
the grip length and the thread length.


Figure 1 The basic parts of a bolt
Figure 2 The parts and dimensions of a thread

The basic parts and most important dimensions of a thread are illustrated in Figure 2. A male thread is
depicted, but the terms apply equally to female threads. The thread pitch is the distance from a point on
the thread to a corresponding point on the next thread measured parallel to the bolts axis (equal to 1
divided by the # of threads per inch). The major diameter is the largest diameter of a thread (measured

over the crests of the thread) while the minor diameter is the smallest diameter of a thread (measured
over the roots of the thread).
Nuts
Compared to a bolt, a nut is a fairly simple
beast. It is really nothing more than a chunk of
steel into which is cut appropriate internal
threads so that it may be screwed onto a bolt.
The flat area of the nut that contacts the joint
when it is tightened is known as the nut face.
Because the only practical way to form the
internal threads is to cut them into the nut,
these threads are always weaker than the
rolled threads of a quality bolt or stud.
Selection of an appropriate nut consists of
choosing the correct grade and thread to
match the bolt used. The only other concern is
whether or not to use some sort of locking
nut. Unless an assembly sees very little load
and must also be frequently disassembled, it
is best to always use some sort of locking nut
selection of which is covered later in this
article.
Figure 3 - Clockwise from left: Grade 8 flat washers,

Grade 5 UNF bolt, UNF/UNF stud, UNC/UNF stud,
Grade 8 bolts
Bolt, Screw, or Stud?

The choice between bolt or screw is really just a naming convention. A bolt is an externally threaded
fastener intended to be used with a nut. It is tightened or loosened by turning a nut on the bolts threads.
A screw is an externally threaded fastener designed to be threaded into a tapped hole in a part. A screw
is tightened or loosened by turning it by the head. In practice, most people call both bolts and screws,
bolts in the majority of this article the terms can be used interchangeably.
A stud is an externally threaded fastener that has 2 threaded ends with a non-threaded shank between
them. It is designed to have one end threaded into a tapped hole while the other end uses a nut. Most
often one end is coarse thread, for threading into a tapped hole, and the other end that takes the nut is
fine thread, so that the benefits of both fine and coarse threads can be utilized these differences will be
discussed later. In the manner of operation, a stud is no different than bolt, they are both clamping
devices, and neither should really be used as locating dowels or bearing trunnions. The advantage to
using a stud occurs when you have a piece that needs to be fastened to a large, cast part that requires
semi-frequent disassembly. By using a stud, the assembly can be disassembled leaving the stud in place,
reducing the chance of fouling or stripping the internal threads in the cast part, which would be difficult to
repair. Using studs to hold a steel steering arm to a cast or forged steering knuckle is an excellent
example of this principle.
The Unavoidable Physics

In discussing fastener selection and joint design we must make use of a few engineering terms. Stress is
a force or load applied to a part, divided by how big the part is, in other words force per unit of cross
sectional area, commonly measured as pounds per square inch (PSI). Strain is a change in shape or
dimension in response to a stress. The concept of strain allows us to describe how a part or material
responds to an applied force or load. There are 3 things that can happen when a bolt strains:
1. It can change shape temporarily, springing back to its original shape when the stress is
removed. This happens when the bolt is stressed below its yield point, and is called, appropriately
enough, elastic deformation. Note that this is the case, even when the strain is so small it
cannot be seen with the naked eye.

2. It can change shape permanently, taking a set even after the load is removed. This is called
plastic deformation and occurs when a material is stressed beyond its yield point.
3. Thirdly, if stressed beyond its ultimate strength, it will rupture. This is called bad; very, very bad!
How Bolted Joints Work
Nuts and bolts are clamps. They work by tightly clamping the parts of a bolted joint together. They are
able to do this because of stress and strain. When a nut and bolt is tightened in a joint, the bearing
surface of the bolt and the nut face come up against the halves of the joint. If tightening continues, the
bolt will stretch slightly it will strain. As long as it is not stressed beyond its yield point it will try and
return to its original length, establishing a clamping force. This bolt-stretch, which creates the desired
clamping force, is called bolt pre-load. Establishing and maintaining appropriate fastener pre-load in a
bolted joint is the principle on which all bolted joints work and is the chief determining factor in how
strong, tight, and fatigue-resistant a bolted joint will be.
Most, if not all, properly designed bolted joints in a 4x4 application will cause the joint and the bolt to be
stressed in one of two distinct ways: tension or shear.
Figure 4 Connecting rod is an example of a bolted tension joint

Tension joints
A joint can be designed so that the bolt will be loaded in tension (Figure 4).The parts are loaded such that
they to try and pull apart. In this case the load is applied along the longitudinal axis of the bolt. A
connecting rod bolt is an example of a bolt loaded in tension.
Shear joints
A joint can be designed so that it will be loaded in shear. In this case, the load on the joint acts
perpendicular to the length of the bolt, and tries to cut, or shear, the bolt in half. Bolts used to hold
suspension links in their brackets are loaded in shear. There are two sub-types of shear joint: bearing and
friction.
Bearing shear joints
In a bearing joint, it is the very close fit of the fastener in the holes that carries the load. Assembled
properly, the bolt will be an extremely close fit in its hole such that SAE fasteners and drilled holes are
not appropriate they allow too much tolerance or slop. Bearing shear joints should be avoided if
possible, unless specialized aerospace bolts with exacting tolerances and precise hole-making methods
(machining or reaming) are employed. The exception to this rule is if some additional method is employed
to ensure there is an extremely tight fit between the fasteners and the holes. The most common method
is to employ a floating, split, conical-shaped washer on the fastener with a matching tapered hole in the
part. In this fashion, as the fastener is tightened, the conical washer cinches down in the tapered hole as
well as against the shank of the bolt or stud, creating a tight, zero clearance fit and preventing slop, wear,
and fatigue. The Dana 44 front axle steering arm attachment is a classic example of this method. Zeroclearance locating dowels are another method that can be employed.
Friction shear joints
The second type of shear joint is a friction shear joint. In this case, the bolt clamps the parts of the joint
together so that the friction between the clamped parts carries the majority of the load. When this is the
case, the bolt itself is loaded only in tension, as it is designed to be, at least until the load overcomes the
friction and the parts slip, loading the bolt in shear. Obviously the in-service load on the joint determines

the amount of friction required, which in turn determines the clamping force required, and therefore the
correct bolt pre-load, as measured by torquing the bolt to spec.
When shear joints are employed, whether they are friction or bearing, they should always be designed so
that the fastener is loaded in double shear if possible. As can be seen in Figure 5, the fastener or
bracket must fail in 2 places for the joint to fail, making it almost twice as strong as the single-shear joint
seen in Figure 6.
Figure 5 Double shear joint
Figure 6 Single shear joint. Note the bending load on the fastener

Because shear joints (which are the most demanding on fasteners) are very common and are often highly
loaded, as in suspension bracketry, the following rules of thumb can help achieve successful joint design:
Ensure that the parts are a very close fit (preferably machined) so that maximum strength can be
obtained from the friction between the bolted parts.
Ensure that the joint is sufficiently rigid, and that the holes are perfectly aligned to minimize
possible loosening of the bolt and subsequent introduction of shock and bending loads.
Tighten the bolt and nut to achieve proper pre-load and clamping force, and check frequently.
If you must drill the holes, do so with a drill press and properly sharpened bit to keep tolerances
to a minimum.
Use only top quality fasteners, minimum of SAE Grade 8, from reputable manufacturers.
Use double-shear joints for all but the most lightly stressed joints.
There is a third type of load all too often imposed on bolts in 4x4 joints, that should be avoided at all
costs. This type of load is called bending load and, naturally, occurs when the forces try to bend the bolt.
Bending load is actually a combination of tension and compression load on opposite sides of the bolt.
Bolts are not designed for this type of load, and if subjected to it will quickly fatigue and fail. In a bending
load, the force is acting perpendicular, or nearly perpendicular, to the bolt, similar to a shear load. The
difference is, in a shear joint, the parts of the joint themselves are clamped very closely together, creating
friction and supporting the bolt. In a bending load, the force is applied some distance from the support of
the joint. As a rule of thumb, bending loads are assumed when the load is applied at a distance from the
joint greater than the diameter of the bolt. In the case of the single shear joint in Figure 6, the bending
load is caused by a lack of support from the overly-thin joint. It is common to observe bending loads in
steering linkages where excessively long spacers have been used between the brackets and the
spherical rod ends.
Fastener Specifications
Once the joint is designed, the next step is to select the right fastener. There are an almost limitless
number of options available to the 4x4 builder. Time and space restrictions prevent a complete discussion
of all possible types here (see resources section for further reading). For the sake of simplicity and
brevity, we shall concentrate on steel SAE fasteners. Table 1 provides the specifications and method of
identification of the fasteners of greatest interest to us.


Table 1 - SAE and ISO Grade Markings and Mechanical Properties for Steel Fasteners
Nominal Mechanical Properties
Identification
Size
Specification Material
Yield Strength Tensile Strength
Markings
Range
Min (psi)
Min (psi)
(in.)
No
Markings
SAE J429
Grade 2
Low or Medium
Carbon Steel
1/4 thru
3/4
Over 3/4
to 1-1/2
57,000
74,000
36,000
60,000
92,000
120,000
SAE J429
Grade 5
Medium Carbon
Steel, Quenched and 1/4 thru 1
Tempered
SAE J429
Grade 7
Medium Carbon Alloy

1/4 thru 1115,000
Steel, Quenched and
1/2
4
Tempered
133,000
SAE J429
Grade 8
Medium Carbon Alloy

Steel, Quenched and
Tempered
130,000
150,000
92,000
120,000
8.8
ISO R898
Class 8.8
9.8
ISO R898
Class 9.8
10.9
ISO R898
Class 10.9
1/4 thru 11/2

105,000
130,000
130,000
150,000
156,000
175,000
Alloy Steel,
Quenched and
Tempered
12.9
ISO R898
Class 12.9
What Size?
The diameter of the fastener used will often be pre-determined by the joint design, as in the size of the
collar in a bushing. If not, the diameter will have to be determined by a careful analysis of the clamping
force and/or shear strength required. Tables 1 and 2 can be used for guidance with the knowledge that an
SAE fasteners shear strength is approximately 60% of its tensile strength. The length of the fastener
should be carefully chosen so that there is sufficient grip length to hold the joint securely at the required
torque setting without bottoming the nut between the shank and threads and without using washers as
shims; while simultaneously having sufficient thread engagement in the nut or tapped hole, without
excessive threads protruding from the nut. As a rule of thumb a bolt should protrude through a nut by at
least 3 full threads. The reason for this is because often the first 2 or 3 threads of a bolt are poorly
formed, usually due to a chamfer on the end of the bolt for easier starting. Thus they will not produce the
full strength of the fastener. A screw should thread into a tapped hole at least 1.5 times the diameter of

the screw, to ensure the screw will break before stripping the internally tapped threads. Formulae for
more precise calculations are published in the Machinerys Handbook.
Table 2 Torque specs for SAE coarse and fine thread fasteners
Grade 5
Grade 8
Nominal Threads/ Tensile
Size
Inch
Stress
Clamp
Tightening
Clamp
Tightening
(in)
Area
Load
Torque *
Load
Torque *
(sq. in)
(lb)
(ft-lb)
(lb)
(ft-lb)
.250
28
.0363
18556-8
2619-3928
9-12
2782
20
.0318
16225-7
2291-3437
8-11
2432
.3125
24
.0580
296112-17
4180-6270
18-25
4441
18
.0524
267411-15
3775-5662
17-22
4011
.375
24
.0878
447922-30
6324-9486
32-45
6719
16
.0774
395219-27
5579-8369
28-39
5928
.4375
20
.1187
605434-48
354651-70
9080
12820
14
.1063
542131-43
765445-63
8132
11480
.500
20
.1599
815153-73
1151681-103
12236
64746
13
.1419
723747-65
1021772-96
10855
15325
.5625
18
.2029
1035676-105
14615115-154
15528
21922
12
.1731
927968-90
13100103-138
13319
19651
.625
18
.2559
13053106-147
18428175-233
19580
27643
11
.2260
1152694-130
16277143-191
17289
24408
.750
16
.3729
19021185-257
26853284-378
28531
40280
10
.3344
17055166-230
24081254-338
25582
36122
1.000
12
.6630
33815440-609
47739670-894
50722
71608
8
.6060
30892402-566
43613619-817
46339
65420
* The upper end of these values represents approximately 85-90% of the fasteners maximum torque.
What Grade?
This is a simple question, despite persistent myths to the contrary. The answer is, SAE Grade 8 from a
reputable national manufacturer. Un-graded and Grade 2 fasteners have no place whatsoever on a 4x4
as they are weak and unreliable, and while Grade 5 fasteners may exhibit the necessary strength in some
applications, in others they do not, and the lower strength and possible misuse of them is simply not
offset by the marginal cost benefit. Grade 8 bolts exhibit greater tensile, yield, and shear strength as well
as greater fatigue resistance and, just as important, are capable of greater torque specs and therefore
much greater pre-load and clamping strength.

There exists an often quoted myth, that Grade 5 bolts are better in shear than Grade 8 since they will
bend before breaking. Not true. Shear strength of alloy steel is approximately 60% of its ultimate tensile
strength. Reference to Table 1 shows that the yield strength of a Grade 8 bolt is higher than the ultimate
strength of a Grade 5 bolt. The Grade 5 bolt will therefore always fail first whether in tension or shear. The
only gotcha with the Grade 8 bolt is that, being harder, it is more notch sensitive. This means it is more
sensitive to build up of stress concentrations caused by notches, nicks, and gouges leading to fatigue and
failure. This becomes a non issue if good quality new fasteners are always used and periodically
inspected.
Different grades of fasteners can be identified by
the markings on their heads (Table 1). Of course,
matching grades of nut and bolt/stud must be used
together.
Note that many manufacturers (e.g. Caterpillar,
Bowman) manufacture bolts to specifications that
exceed those for SAE Grade 8 bolts. These
fasteners (Figure 7) are often marked in a similar
fashion to SAE graded hardware by means of
dashes embossed on the head of the bolt. Despite
this, it is not technically correct to refer to these
bolts as Grade 12 or such, as no such SAE
specification exists. Bowman calls their line
Bowman Special Alloy.
Figure 7 - Bowman Grade 8 bolt & Bowman

Special Alloy bolt
Which Thread Coarse or Fine?

While there exist many different classes of threads, the only classes likely to be of interest to us are Class
2A/2B and Class 3A/3B (the A denotes external threads; the B denotes internal threads). Class 2A/2B is
the recognized standard for normal production of the great bulk of commercial bolts, nuts and screws.
Class 3A/3B is used where a close fit between mating parts for high quality work is required. This class is
usually only found on certain specialized engine hardware (e.g. connecting rod bolts) or aerospace
fasteners. The vast majority of our fasteners will be in Class 2A/2B. The thread class should be matched
between nut and bolt. When tapping a hole, be sure the tap cuts the same class of thread as the screw or
stud you intend to use. SAE fasteners come in a choice of either Unified National Coarse (UNC) or
Unified National Fine (UNF). Sometimes the older designations NC and NF are still used. The differences
are as follows:
UNC fasteners are the most common, easiest to find, quickest to assemble, and most resistant to
cross threading and thread fouling. They are easier to disassemble when corroded and are also
less susceptible to thread stripping - making coarse threads a good choice for threading into cast
pieces.
UNF fasteners have a larger minor diameter than UNC, giving them a corresponding slightly
larger tensile stress area and therefore tensile and shear load carrying capability. They are not
appreciably more resistant to vibration loosening than UNC threads. The only thing that really
keeps a fastener tight is the correct pre-load, and this can be just as easily achieved with either
thread. UNF threads are more prone to damage and thread fouling. Fine thread bolts are also
more susceptible to stripping and require greater thread engagement for equivalent thread
strength than the same size coarse thread fastener. Due to their higher tensile stress area UNF
fasteners can be torqued more, and therefore develop greater clamping force than the equivalent
size UNC fastener.
Why Torque?
The reason we torque fasteners to a given spec is because it is the most convenient, practical method for
controlling the amount of pre-load or stretch in the bolt, which in turn provides the necessary clamping

force for the assembly. Torque values are calculated considering the material of the nut and bolt, the
surface finish (including lubricants or retention compounds), and other factors. In practice, the most
common method is to use a table of pre-calculated torque values such as that shown in Table 2.
There is a pitfall to controlling pre-load by torque though. The majority of the torque used to tighten a
fastener is not directly used in achieving the desired pre-load. Of the torque we apply to a fastener,
approximately 45% is consumed to overcome friction in the threads, 40% consumed to overcome friction
between the nut face and the joint, and another 5% is consumed by prevailing torque - the torque
required to screw a locking-type nut down the threads of a bolt. Thus only 10% is available to produce
bolt pre-load. This means that changes in either the friction of the threads (as in rusty or oily threads), or
under the nut face (when flat washers are used or the nut embeds in the bracket) can have a huge impact
on the pre-load. This is why top pro engine builders tend to use strain gauges or ultrasonic measurement
to measure actual bolt stretch, rather than torque. These methods are not practical for most of us though,
but there are some rules we can follow to minimize the pitfalls:
Avoid using multiple flat washers, as the relative motion between them and the nut and the joint
alters the friction under the nut face. It is difficult to avoid using flat washers altogether, as having
the nut embed in the bracket does the same thing. The best solution is to use a flanged nut
and/or flange head bolt when embedding is a problem.
Always turn the nut with the torque wrench, rather than the bolt, to avoid further muddying the
waters with bolt torsion and shank/bracket friction.
Use a calibrated torque wrench to evenly and smoothly tighten nuts to spec.
The more a nut and bolt is tightened, the greater the pre-load in the bolt, and therefore the more external
load it can sustain within material limits. As the bolt strains to return to its original length it fights back
against any external tension load, until its pre-load clamping force is exceeded. In addition, the tighter the
bolt and nut, the more friction in the threads, and the less it is susceptible to loosening. In summary
loose is useless and tight is right!
But how tight is tight enough? A good rule of thumb is to use an established table of recommended torque
values or to tighten a fastener to about 70-80% of its maximum torque capacity. Note that almost all
torque specifications published are for clean, dry threads. In calculating assembly torque for any threads
that are not clean and dry, exact figures are difficult to determine experience and judgement are the
best tools, along with direct strain measurement in critical applications. Common compounds applied to
threads such as grease and anti-seize normally reduce the required torque by 20-40% or more. Its worth
noting the reason critical fasteners such as ring gear bolts are never to be re-used. Such bolts are
required to achieve extremely high clamping loads in order to do their job. This means they must be
installed and torqued so highly that they approach their yield point, sometimes very closely. Add the
stress they see in service, and we cannot be sure that they will retain all of their tensile strength if they
have been removed and reinstalled.
Setting Torque
The proper technique for tightening a fastener to spec is as follows: Tighten the fastener a little at a time
(3 or more steps), pausing to allow the stress in the threads to relax. Finish with an even pull until the
torque wrench clicks or indicates final torque, pause, and then pull again to check.
Checking Torque
When checking an assembled joint, such as wheel lugs or steering-arm-to-knuckle joints, the best
procedure is to loosen the fasteners and torque evenly to spec, as above. When one needs to know if the
fastener had loosened in service, one can simply place the socket over the nut, make an alignment mark
between the socket and a part of the joint that is stationary, back the nut off a quarter turn, and then retorque to spec how close the alignment marks line up will give an indication as to the degree of
loosening in service Figure 8). The snag is: this method is problematic for checking fasteners that use
chemical thread-locking compounds. resulting in less torque available for pre-loading the fastener
meaning the fastener will now be looser and weaker if torqued to the same spec again.

Breaking the chemical bond in checking
the torque defeats the purpose of the
thread locker, and the resulting cured
compound in the threads increases thread
friction. However, since the cured thread
locker will add to the friction in the
threads, it stands to reason that it would
take more than the original assembly
torque used when it was not cured, to
break the fastener free either by
tightening or loosening. Therefore, torque
can be checked by holding the bolt head
stationary, and applying assembly torque
to the nut, while checking to make sure
there is no relative movement between
nut and bolt. If the torque wrench
indicates assembly torque and the nut
and bolt have not moved relative to one
another, the fastener is still tight.
Figure 8 Torque checking
Washers
If a washer is necessary, there is really only one type that should be considered in a structural bolted
joint, and that is the flat washer. Its purpose is to act as an increased load-bearing surface for either the
head of the bolt and/or the face of the nut. This use should only be considered when using a nut or bolt
with insufficient bearing area resulting in it digging into the surface of the joint (embedding) if a washer
were not used. Embedding is to be avoided. Not only does it damage the surface, but the unpredictable
stress that occurs when fasteners embed into the joint destroys any chance we have of achieving proper
pre-load by torquing. The only other purpose a flat washer serves is to act as a shim to either position the
threads more favourably, or to adjust the position of a castle nut so that the slots better line up with the
hole in the bolt. Use of washers as shims is dubious at best, and should be avoided if possible by using
the correct length bolt.
Preventing Loosening
As we have seen, loose fasteners are weak and quickly lead to failure. The best way to prevent a
fastener from loosening is to do it up tightly enough that there is sufficient clamping force across the joint
to prevent relative motion between the bolt head/nut and the joint, as well as sufficient inter-thread friction
to prevent any relative motion between the threads. If a fastener is new, clean, dry, torqued to the proper
spec with a calibrated wrench and it is properly sized and used in a sufficiently rigid joint - it will stay tight.
Of course, there are a lot of ifs in that statement, and we off-roaders live in an imperfect world at best,
so there are several methods available to assist in preventing the loosening of fasteners. Which is best
for the application depends partly on the root cause of the loosening, and partly on the characteristics of
the locking device. Root causes of loosening are usually one of:
Overloading of the joint causing clamping force and friction in the joint to be overcome, leading to
slippage in the joint, bending of parts, and ultimately slippage of the bolt head and/or nut face
which will lead to loosening. Undersized fasteners, improperly torqued fasteners, and
insufficiently rigid joints are culprits here.
If the parts of a bolted joint are subjected to different amounts of heating and cooling, or if they
are made from different materials subject to the same thermal cycle, the resulting differences in
thermal expansion and contraction in the joint can lead to loosening. Effects are cumulative and
can combine with other forms of loosening. The difficulty of keeping aluminium wheels tightly
fastened to steel hubs with steel lugs and nuts is a classic example.
Severe vibration in a joint can lead to bolt loosening. Again, effects are cumulative and can
combine with other causes.


The following are the most effective methods of helping to control loosening but none will replace a
properly tightened fastener. There are many other methods not listed (such as split beam nuts, star
washers, Bellville washers and lock wiring), simply because they are uncommon, largely ineffective or too
complex and expensive for the majority of our uses.
Lock Nuts
There are many types and brands of lock nuts available (Figure 9). There are also countless proprietary
types available, but most use some variation, or combination, of the following basics:
Nylon Collar Lock Nuts
The most common type of locking nut, they have a small nylon insert at the top of the nut, the ID of which
is slightly less than the major diameter of the bolts thread. As the bolt threads into the nylon area it
impresses its own threads into the nylon and the friction bond achieved resists loosening. Nylon collar
lock nuts can be re-used up to about 10 times, but are only good up to temperatures of about 250
degrees Fahrenheit.
Deformed Thread (Elliptically Offset) Lock Nut
This all-metal lock nut is my personal favourite. It has no practical temperature limit and can be reused
many, many times. The top threads of this nut are deformed (usually elliptical or triangular in shape) so
that they tightly grip the male threads of the bolt, creating a very secure locking action but without
damaging the male threads. Examples include Torquenut, Stover, and Clevloc nuts.
Castellated Nut
The castellated nut has slots cut in the top
and is used with a bolt that has a single
hole through its threaded end. In use, the
nut is installed and torqued to spec and
then rotated so that the nearest slot aligns
with the hole in the bolt. A cotter pin is
then installed through the slots and the
hole, to lock the nut in place. The
disadvantage to this type is that, because
of the clearance required between the
slots to allow for cotter pin insertion, it is
difficult to achieve a precise torque setting
and simultaneously line up the hole and
slots. For the same reason, the cotter pin
prevents the nut from backing off, but due
to the clearances involved, does not hold
the nut tightly to prevent any loosening.
The castellated nut is best suited for lowtorque applications such as holding a
wheel bearing in place.
Figure 9 From left: nylon collar lock nuts, castellated nuts,

spring lock washers, flanged and non-flanged deformed
thread lock nuts
Spring (Split) Lock Washers

I mention this so-called locking device only in an effort to turn you off them forever! I cant stand the things
and believe they are next to completely useless. The typical spring washer is made of slightly trapezoidal
wire formed into a helix of one coil. It is supposed to work by acting as a compressed spring
presumably to add to bolt pre-load and prevent loosening. However, when we combine our knowledge of
bolt stretch and pre-load with the fact that the split washer is always compressed completely flat under
any properly tightened bolt, we can see that the idea that this thing would effectively contribute to bolt preload is ridiculous. The only other way it could possibly help is that the sharp trapezoidal ends dig in
slightly to the bolts bearing surface and the face of the joint (but only if the washer were harder than the
bolts bearing surface, which is extremely unlikely). However, when we remember the pitfalls of inaccurate
pre-load caused by excessive/unpredictable friction under the bolt head/nut face consuming too much of

the tightening torque, we can see that this is hardly a good idea. Not only that, but experience teaches us
that the damn things invariably squish and splay out under any decent amount of torque anyway. I think
they are useless junk that should be avoided on extreme off-road machines!
Thread Locking Compounds
The final method to consider is the family of chemical thread locking compounds such as Loctite. A
thread locking compound is an anaerobic adhesive, meaning it is applied to threads in a liquid form, and
when the fasteners are joined and oxygen is excluded, they cure into a solid, plastic-like compound
locking the threads together. They are available in a wide variety of strengths to suit different
applications, from those that can be disassembled by hand to those that require the application of heat
and power tools. The manufacturers application directions should be carefully followed and it is advisable
to avoid using too much usually a drop or two will do. They provide excellent resistance to loosening but
can be messy and expensive. They also make tightening to spec, torque checking, and disassembly
more complicated. Most thread locking adhesives actually create more friction in the threads than clean,
dry threads so that assembly torque will have to be adjusted accordingly.
Conclusion
Fasteners are an essential and integral part of every one of our machines. Getting them right is critical, as
the consequences of their all-too-common failure, ranges from embarrassing and frustrating to down-right
scary. Lets face it nothing particularly good happens when fasteners or bolted joints fail! As with any
other tech topic, the wise fabricator/builder must apply this or any other technical information with great
care, at his/her own risk, and always seek competent professional help when required. May you
experience great success in your fastening endeavours and keep safe out there!
Sources
Smith, Carroll. Engineer to Win: The Essential Guide to Racing Car Materials Technology, 1985
(Motorbooks International)
Gren, Robert E., Oberg, E., Jones, F.D., Horton, H.L., Ryffel, H. H. (Editors). Machinerys Handbook,
24th Edition, 1992, (Industrial Press, Inc.)
Aird, Forbes. High Performance Hardware: Fastener Technology for Auto Racers and Enthusiasts, 1999,
(Berkley Pub Group)
Smith, Carroll. Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners & Plumbing Handbook, 1990, (Motorbooks International)
Digitally signed by Bill 'BillaVista'

Ansell
DN: CN = Bill 'BillaVista' Ansell, C
= CA, O = BillaVista Offroad Tech
Reason: I am the author of this
document
Date: 2005.06.23 21:52:14 -04'00'


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What are the basic parts of a bolt?

What are the basic parts of a bolt?

What are the important dimensions of a thread?

What are the important dimensions of a thread?

Originally Published in Xtreme Offroad Magazine Issue #1

Copyright 2005 BillaVista Offroad Tech All Rights Reserved

Fastener Tech the

Originally Published in Xtreme Offroad Magazine Issue #1

Originally Published in Xtreme Offroad Magazine Issue #1

Figure 1 The basic parts of a bolt

Figure 2 The parts and dimensions of a thread

Originally Published in Xtreme Offroad Magazine Issue #1

Figure 3 - Clockwise from left: Grade 8 flat washers,

Bolt, Screw, or Stud?

The Unavoidable Physics

Originally Published in Xtreme Offroad Magazine Issue #1

Figure 4 Connecting rod is an example of a bolted tension joint

Originally Published in Xtreme Offroad Magazine Issue #1

Figure 5 Double shear joint

Originally Published in Xtreme Offroad Magazine Issue #1

Originally Published in Xtreme Offroad Magazine Issue #1

Originally Published in Xtreme Offroad Magazine Issue #1

Medium Carbon Alloy

Medium Carbon Alloy

1/4 thru 11/2

Originally Published in Xtreme Offroad Magazine Issue #1

Originally Published in Xtreme Offroad Magazine Issue #1

Figure 7 - Bowman Grade 8 bolt & Bowman

Which Thread Coarse or Fine?

Originally Published in Xtreme Offroad Magazine Issue #1

Originally Published in Xtreme Offroad Magazine Issue #1

Figure 8 Torque checking

Originally Published in Xtreme Offroad Magazine Issue #1

Originally Published in Xtreme Offroad Magazine Issue #1

Figure 9 From left: nylon collar lock nuts, castellated nuts,

Spring (Split) Lock Washers

Originally Published in Xtreme Offroad Magazine Issue #1

Digitally signed by Bill 'BillaVista'

Originally Published in Xtreme Offroad Magazine Issue #1

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