Soy Wax Candle Class

All About Soy

Soy wax is produced from soybeans. It is a pure and
natural vegetable wax that is also considered kosher.
Not only is this wax non toxic, but it is also
biodegradable. In fact, soy wax is very
environmentally friendly and is made from a renewable
resource.
Soy wax is one of the most enjoyable waxes to work
with. This is because soy wax is either in a pellet or
flake form. This form just makes everything easier
from the weighing of the wax out, to the clean up
afterwards.
The candles that are made from soy wax are very
clean burning. Not only is there a reduction in soot,
but due to the makeup of soy itself, the burn time of a
soy wax candle increases. This is because soy wax
candles burn slower and cooler; in relation to its
counterpart paraffin.
To be completely honest, there are many reasons as
to why soy wax candles are so popular. But, it is also
important to note the disadvantages of working with
soy wax.

Soy wax is very temperature sensitive. Heating the

wax over 200 degrees Fahrenheit for example will burn
and discolor the wax.
When it comes to the overall look of a finished candle,
soy wax is in a world of its own. Sometimes the
finished soy wax candle can look grainy. They also
have a tendency to frost. It is also quite common for
the tops of a soy wax candle to not be smooth and
have a flakey look to them.
There are 3 different types of soy wax that Natures
Garden carries. All three types are Golden Foods
Brand Waxes. These waxes are

NG 100% Soy Wax (GF 415)

Golden Foods Soy Wax 444
Golden Foods Soy Wax 464

NG 100%
Soy Wax
(Golden
Foods 415)

Golden
Foods Soy
Wax 444

This wax is 100% pure soy. There are no additives

added to this natural wax. As for melt point, GF 415 is
120-125 degrees Fahrenheit. This higher melt point
allows this wax to carry a higher fragrance load (up to
12% of scent per pound of wax), therefore making a
stronger scented candle. GF 415 can be blended with
other waxes as well. These waxes would include:
paraffin, beeswax, and microcrystalline waxes.

What makes this wax different from the 415 is that there is a
soy based additive that is added to this wax. Yet, GF 444 is
still a natural wax. The additive in this wax helps to combat
some of the inefficiencies of the 415. First off, the additive
increases your pour temperature. With the 415, you pour at
110 degrees Fahrenheit, and your wax will be somewhat in a
slushy like state. With the 444, you can pour at 135 degrees
Fahrenheit, and your wax will still be in a fluid form.

*The higher melt point of this wax helps with shipping

candles in hotter temperatures.

This additive also helps with the aesthetic look of your

finished candle. Using the 415, may result with frosting and
an unsmooth top. With the 444, the additive reduces
frosting issues and also encourages a smoother finish in the
wax.
Also maintaining a higher melt point, like the 415, GF 444 is
120- 125 degrees Fahrenheit. This higher melt point also
allows this wax to hold a higher scent load (up to 12% of
scent per pound); making a stronger scented candle.
This wax can be blended with other waxes as well. These
include: paraffin and microcrystalline waxes.
*The higher melt point of this wax helps with shipping
candles in hotter temperatures.

Golden
Foods Soy
Wax 464

This natural wax is very similar to the 444. Also

containing the soy based additive, GF 464 has an
increased pour temperature (135F), reduces frosting,
and also has a smooth wax finish in a candle. The
main difference between the GF 444 and GF 464 is
the melt point. GF 464 has a melt point of 115-120
degrees Fahrenheit. This lower melt point allows for a
better glass adhesion in the finished candle.
Now, as for scenting this wax; the maximum scent load
for this wax is 10-12%. However, we suggest keeping
the fragrance percent at 10 to reduce the possibility of
fragrance oil seepage.
This wax can be blended with paraffin and
microcrystalline waxes also.

How to Know How Much Wax

When figuring out how much wax you are going
to need, here is the standard we suggest:
For measuring purposes, 20 ounces (weight) of
soy wax is equivalent to 16 ounces of fluid
volume.

The Pour Line

It is important to know where to
stop your pour in your
containers when making your
candles. In order to guarantee
the best possible burn in your
candles, the fill line has to be
correct. The correct line in your
containers is where the jar
begins to change shape before
the top. Filling to this point will
allow a clean burn, without
tunneling your wick.

Scenting Soy Wax

When it comes to scenting your soy wax,
fragrance oils are the way to go. Luckily,
Natures Garden just happens to carry
over 800 amazing candle scents. IF you
are wondering where a good starting
place is for selecting which fragrance oils
are the best candle scents, please click
on this link to view the top 20 candle
scents. These scents were nominated
by our wonderful candle making
customers.

The fragrance oils that are manufactured for candle

making are formulated to bind with soy wax and
anchor themselves to provide both cold and hot throw
in a finished candle.
These scent throws are very important to candles.
One of the most frustrating aspects to candle making
is to go through all of the research and steps, only to
find that your finished candle has no scent at all. We
believe that this main scenting issue can easily be
solved by knowing when to add your fragrance oil to
your wax.
When seeking optimal results in your candles hot and
cold throw, a fragrance oils flash point must be taken
into consideration. If you recall from earlier in the
class, temperature is everything for soy. Through our
testing we have found that the flash point of a
fragrance oil will directly correlate as to when the scent
is added to the soy wax.
The flash point of a fragrance oil is the temperature at
which a fragrance will start to burn off. This burn off
will directly affect the smell of your finished candle.

Always use caution when adding a fragrance oil to hot

wax, especially when the fragrance oil has a lower
flash point.
Now, it has been believed that in order for a fragrance
oil to properly bind with soy wax, it had to be added at
185 degrees Fahrenheit. This is not the case for every
fragrance oil though. The 185 degree temperature is
the highest degree a fragrance oil can be added to soy
wax.
Never add a fragrance oil above 185 degrees,
regardless of the flash point. This 185 degree
temperature is the temperature for the addition of any
fragrance oil with a flash point of 185 degrees or
higher.
Now, lets look at some fragrance oil flash points to
decipher what is the appropriate temperature to add
them to the wax.

Fragrances and
Temperature
Royal B
Fragrance Oil
has a flash point of 200
degrees Fahrenheit.
Since this flash point is
above the 185 degree
temperature, Royal B
fragrance should be
added at 185 degrees.
This scent has a high enough flash point where it will not
experience any burn off. Your finished candle will have a nice
and full bodied scent throw, true to the Royal B scent. This
scent is an example of a fragrance oil that is added to the soy
wax at 185 degree temperature, even though Royal B has a
higher flash point.

Apple Orchard
Fragrance Oil
This fragrance has a flash
point of 155 degrees
Fahrenheit. Since this
flash point is lower than
the 185 degree
temperature for fragrance
addition;
we do not want to add this fragrance oil at 185 degrees.
Doing so may cause the fragrance to burn off, therefore
changing the scent of the finished candle. So, instead
we will add this scent to the wax at its flash point (155
degrees Fahrenheit). This degree will ensure the
scenting of the soy wax with the true apple orchard scent
(without any burn off). This scent is an example of a
fragrance oil that is added at its own flash point.

Please Note: For many years, it has been reported that you must add fragrance oil to melted soy wax at a temperature of
185F in order for the fragrance oils to bind with the wax. Our testing has shown that this is simply not the case. Low flash
point fragrance oils can be added to melted soy wax as low as 130F (as we will discuss next); Just be sure to agitate the
wax with a full 2 minute stir (after the addition of the scent) and you will have no oil seepage in your finished candle.

Now, for the lower end of the flash point spectrum:

Although there are not many fragrance oils with low
flash points, there are a few. Generally, they are your
lighter fragrances like citruses. Blood Orange
Fragrance Oil, for example, has a flash point of 115
degrees Fahrenheit. Typically, any fragrance oil that
has a flash point lower than 130 degrees Fahrenheit;
will be added at 130 degrees. So, you would add
Blood Orange scent to your melted wax at 130
degrees Fahrenheit. You would then stir for a full 2
minutes to encourage the binding of the scent to the
wax. Now it should be mentioned that adding the
scent at this temperature will reduce the amount of
burn off, but it does completely prevent burn off from
occurring. This is where anchoring the fragrance
comes into play.
Anchoring a fragrance oil quite simply is blending the
fragrance oil (with the lower flash point) with another
fragrance oil (with a higher flash point). This addition
of the second fragrance oil therefore increases the
overall fragrance flash point, making for a more stable
scent.
As an example: In order to secure and stabilize
Blood Orange (flash point of 115 degrees) in soy wax,
we want to raise the flash point temperature to at least
130 degrees or higher. This can be done by adding
Vanilla Extract for example (which has a flash point of
330 degrees Fahrenheit). This addition will both
anchor the fragrance oil in the soy wax, as well as
eliminate the fuel scent (a common issue with citrus
scents in soy due to burn off); simply by increasing the
overall fragrance flash point.

To break down fragrance addition to simpler

terms:
IF a fragrance oil is 185 degrees or higher, add it to the
soy wax at 185 degrees.
IF a fragrance oil is below 185 degrees, but is higher
than 130 degrees, add it to the soy wax at its own flash
point- with a full 2 minute stir.
IF the fragrance oil is below 130 degrees, add it to the
soy wax at 130 degrees- with a full 2 minute stir.
* But remember, anchoring a lighter fragrance oil (one
that has a flash point below 130 degrees) is also
another option to help prevent burn off.

Coloring Soy Wax

It was commonly believed that the only way to color
soy wax was with color blocks. These color blocks are
dyes that are dispensed in your wax medium. A typical
color block is oz to 1 oz in weight. A color block of
this size will color up to 15 pounds of candle wax. But,
all it takes to color a smaller batch (1 pound) is about 1
gram, depending on the darkness of the hue you are
looking for that is.
When adding your color block to the wax, there are a
few things you should note. First, using too much
color block in your candle wax may clog your wick
(preventing the candle from burning properly). Color
blocks may also create more smoke in your candle as
it burns. And again, using too much color block will
also inhibit your candles melt pool capabilities,
therefore hindering your scent throw. As well, using a
color block in your candle wax may leave color
speckles if not completed dissolved.
In order to reduce the chance of color specks
appearing in your finished candle, you must make sure
that your color block is fully dissolved in the liquid wax.
That is why we suggest grading your color block, and
adding your amount in small pieces.

Added at 185 degrees in soy wax (which is the best

temperature for the soy wax to bind with the color),
beautiful pastel hues can be attained. It is difficult to
produce a vibrant color with color blocks because as you
recall, an overabundance of color block will clog your
wick. If you are looking for a vibrant color that is where
liquid Spectrum candle dyes thrive.
Up until recently, it was believed Spectrum Liquid Candle
Dye could not be used to color soy candles. The main
issue was due to the solvent in the liquid dyes. This
however, is simply not the case. Through our testing, we
have found that spectrum liquid candle dye produces
gorgeous and vibrant colors in soy wax. Also added at
the 185 degree temperature, these liquid dyes are a
breeze to work with (adding by single drops). Plus, with
the fact that these dyes are very concentrated, a little bit
goes a very long way.
Please Note: Crayons should never be used to color
candles. Crayons are pigments that are suspended in
wax. These pigments will clog your candle wick. Due to
this fact, pigments (like crayons or micas) should never
be used. Also, it should be noted never use soap dyes
or food coloring to color candle wax. Candle colors
should be achieved using candle dyes only.

Candle Coloring Tip

Ever wonder what the color of your candle is going to turn out
to be? When working with colored wax, the best way to see
what color the wax is going to be is to drop a few drips of the
colored wax onto a piece of white paper. Once the wax drips
harden, that will show you the color of your candle.
Remember, when adding color to candle wax, start with a
little bit first. You can always add more color to wax, but you
cannot take it away.

Soy Candle Wicking

One of the most crucial elements to your soy candle is
your wick. The wick will actually make or break your
candle. In a candle, the lit wick is the means (through
a complete melt pool) to which your scent will
permeate the air (the hot scent throw). The wick will
also determine your candles burn time and wax
burning power.
In order to make the best soy candle possible, you
have to have the correct wick. The correct wick is one
that will burn hot, and provide an appropriate sized
flame (and also a flame that will not flicker). It is
important to remember, as the wick works its magic,
and the melted wax pool is pulled through the
capillaries of the wick, the scent is released.

To read a fascinating article on the science of candle

wicks, please click on this link.
There are a few varieties of wicks available at Natures
Garden. Each wick type varies slightly, and in general it
is up to personal choice as to which one you want to use.
This size of wick is where the crucial aspect takes place,
but more on that a little later.
Before committing to purchasing 100 wicks from Natures
Garden, we also carry a wick sampler pack. These
packs are available for the CD, HTP, and Hemp wicks.
Each sampler pack includes 5 wicks of that size. This is
the best route for testing wick sizes and ensuring a
proper burn in your finished candle.

CD Wicks
CD wicks are precut,
prewaxed, and
pretabbed. They are a
flat braided coreless
(not containing a metal core) wick that provides a very
clean burn. When it does come to the burn, these
wicks burn very hot, making them the perfect choice
for soy wax. We highly suggest using this wick for soy
wax candles. The CD wick is also almost self
trimming. This is due to the fact that the tip of the wick
bends slightly as it burns. This wick is a very popular
choice in both soy and veggie waxes, reducing
mushrooming, soot, and smoke.

HTP Wicks
HTP wicks are an all cotton braided wick. This wick
also burns hot, making it a good choice for soy, veggie,
and gel waxes. The main highlight of this wick is that it
is structurally strong and provides less smoking and
mushrooming in a finished candle.

Hemp Wicks
Hemp wicks are all natural. They too provide a hotter
burn. The wicks are pretabbed and prewaxed.
Another great and popular selection for soy and veggie
waxes.

Wooden Wicks
Wooden wicks are super easy to use
and great for soy wax candles. These
soft wood series wooden wicks also
work with gel wax, vegetable waxes,
and most paraffin waxes.

Selecting the Right

Sized Wick
In order to know which wick size you need, you must first know what candle
container you are using. Selecting the correct wick size correlates directly to
your candle containers diameter.
To find your candle container diameter, simply grab your container and a ruler. Place your container upside down,
and then place your ruler horizontally across the bottom. This will tell you what your diameter of your candle
container is in inches. Once you have this information, and you know what kind of wick you would like to use, it is
time to move on to the wick chart to select your size. You can see this chart by clicking this link.

More Wick Factors to Consider with Soy

Even with all of this information to consider there are still
some more factors to contemplate. To review, wick size
can be dependent upon 4 factors. They are:

Container Diameter

Fragrance Oil

Candle Waxes

Candle Colorants

Container
Diameter
Now, if your candle container is larger or uniquely
shaped, it is very common to double or triple wick.
This type of wicking involves using multiple wicks in
your jar. This method ensures that your candle will
have an excellent wet pool (melting wax). The goal of
a perfect wet pool is that it touches all sides of your jar.

Candle Wax
As a rule of thumb, anytime you are using a vegetable
wax you should wick up. Using the next sized wick for
your candle will ensure that your candles burn will be
hot enough to melt your wax. Remember, the key to
the best candle possible always lies with the wick. In
order to attain the perfect melt pool (one that will
essentially leave no left over wax in your candle) you
wick needs to be hot to battle those hotter wax melt
points (120-125F for both GF 415 and GF 444, and
115-120F for GW464). That same melt pool (the fuel
to the wick) is also responsible for your candles hot
scent throw.

Fragrance Oil

Depending on which fragrance oil you use in your soy

candle, you may need to wick up. The term wicking up
means purposely using a larger wick than what your
candle container diameter needs. This is an
advantage in candles because it allows for a hotter
burn therefore increasing the candles melt pool.
Wicking up is also an advantage when it comes to the
hot throw (the scent in the air when a candle is lit) of
the candle. In order for a candle to have the best
possible hot scent throw, the fragrance oil needs to be
in a volatile state. What this means is that the
fragrance oil needs to readily evaporate into the air.
As mentioned earlier, vanilla fragrance oils tend to
have a higher flashpoint, what this means is that they
almost always require a wick up in order to help
release the vanilla aroma into the air. This is due to
the fact that vanilla scents are thicker in consistency
and wicking up will inhibit the candle wick from
clogging. This will also help with preventing your wick
from drowning out as well. Vanillas however are not
the only candidates that require a wick up. Fragrance
oils with heavier base notes will too. Ensuring the best
hot throw for your candles, any fragrance that has
heavy (dominate) base notes of patchouli, vetiver,
amber, and musk should also be wicked up.

Colorant

In order to achieve the perfect color in your candle,

sometimes you need to use a little extra colorant. If
this is true for your candles, it may also be necessary
to wick up once again. Candle dyes are literally dyes
that are dissolved in your candle wax. If you used a
heavier amount of dye to achieve a bold color, you risk
the dyes clogging your candle wick. This occurs when
the wick draws from its fuel source, the melt pool. The
best way to combat a potential clogged wick in this
situation is to wick up.

Keeping Candle
Wicks Centered
As mentioned earlier, wicks are the vessel for
your candles hot scent throw. In order to
ensure the best hot scent throw possible, your
candles wick must be the appropriate size; but
also centered and straight. Keeping the wick
centered and straight can be a tricky,
especially while the candle wax is still liquid.
There are however, some tricks of the trade.
For our candle testing purposes: After we
have poured the candle wax, we slide the
wicks of the candle into the teeth of a barber
comb. This barber comb then lies flat across
your candle container; holding the wicks in
place until the wax has hardened. For other
great tips that candle makers use to keep their
wicks straight, please click on this link.
Also, one of Natures Gardens amazing
customers, Angie Chism made a wonderful
how to video covering her tips to keeping
candle wicks centered. To see her video,
please click on this link.

Candle Additive
Vybar 260
While most soy candle makers do not add any synthetic additives to their candles (vybar 260),
some candle makers do. Vybar 260 can be used in soy wax candles to help extend scent
throw in your candles.
Used at an amount of to tsp per 16oz of wax will accomplish this and provide very nice results. Physically speaking
the addition of vybar will make your candle wax more opaque looking, and a marbleized top portion of your candles. Now,
please note: Vybar will raise your candles melt point, as well as make your wax consistency harder.
Now, the use of vybar 260 does come with a precaution. If you add too much of this, it will trap your scent, prohibiting
scent throw. What this means, is there will be little to no scent throw in your finished candle.

Heating your
Candle Jars

The reason why you want to warm your candle jars in the oven is to
reduce the occurrence of frost and wet spots.

Frost
Frost is the appearance of white or a lighter
variation of color in your wax. Frost
however will not directly affect your candle
burn, or the functionality of your candle. It
is only an aesthetic issue, and may occur in
soy candles from time to time.

Wet Spots
Wet Spots in candles are spots or patches that occur in
container candles. They are extremely common in container
candles, but are especially noticeable when your candle
container is glass or transparent. These spots appear to have
air or wetness that is trapped between the candle wax and the
candle container. Wet spots occur when the candle wax simply
does not adhere to the container. Just like frost, they are an
aesthetic issue only, and have no affect on the functionality of
your candle.

Testing Your Candles

Once you have a finished candle, there are a
few physical results that will indicate if you are
using the wrong wick size. That is why it is
crucial to have a few test candles to burn before
selling or giving your candles away to loved
ones and friends.

Tunneling
An average sized lit candle that has been burning for 2-3
hours should have established a full melt pool by this time. A
full melt pool is melted wax that is touching all sides of your
candle jar. If you notice that your candle has only a melt pool
around your wick (or only in the middle), this is tunneling.
Tunneling is an indicator that the wick size you are currently
using is not large enough for your candle. A tunneled wick
may also result with a wick that continually extinguishes on its
own (drowning out). This could be due to one or more of the
4 wick size indicators: Container Diameter, Fragrance Oil,
Candle Wax, or Colorant. To correct, either double wick your
candles, or wick up to the next wick size.

Soy Candle Making Tip

Soy wax naturally will have a frosted look
in the finished candle. This is especially
true for the GW415. Although many
people who burn soy candles are aware
of this, you can reduce this look from
your candles, by heating the tops of the
finished candles with a hair dryer.

The Memory Burn

It is important to know, as well as stress to the people that are purchasing or burning your candles; a memory burn should
always be the first burn your candles should experience. A memory burn is essentially a complete wet pool of melted wax.
This wet pool will encompass the entire top portion of your candle (and be approximately inch in depth). What the memory
burn establishes is a guarantee that every time the candle is lit, it will retain the memory of a full melt pool. This will reduce
tunneling and the excess of unmelted wax along the sides of the jar, leaving them clean. Another advantage to a memory
burn is the hot scent throw. Ensuring a memory burn in your candles will allow every gram of scented wax to be used.
Now that we have reviewed the essential background of soy candles, it is time to look at the equipment.

Soy Candle Making Equipment

The general equipment and supplies that you need for candle making pretty much stays the same, regardless. These items are:
Scale- Eliminate overage. When everything is measured out
perfectly, it takes away the guessing.

Cookie Sheet- Warming your jars for soy candles is one

of the best ways to prevent frosting.

Thermometer- In order to add your fragrance and color at

the proper temperature, you will need a thermometer.

Stirring Spoon- Fully stirring your melted wax is the

best way to bind both color and scent. Stainless Steel
Spoons work best.

Pouring Pot- Perfect size for making a 4 pound batch of

candles. This pot also has a sturdy handle, and spout for the
candle pour.

Hot Glue Gun/ Glue Dots- Either one can be used to

adhere the wick to the bottom of your candle container.

Pot- The double boiler method is the only melting method

recommended with wax. Having a pot (or roaster pan)
designated for candle making makes this process easy.

A Testing Notebook- Taking notes during the candle

making process will help ensure a repeatable outcome
time and time again.

Warning Labels- Whether you are selling and giving your

candles away as a gift, warning labels cover instructions for
use and safety precautions.

Please Note: Many times some of the equipment used for making candles can be every day kitchen items like stirring
spoons, measuring bowls, cookie sheet, etc. It is important to know that once your candle making equipment has come into
contact with fragrance oils or candle dyes, those items should strictly be used for candle making purposes only. Not only can
fragrance oils eat through (melt) certain plastics, but once an item has been used for candle making, it should not be used for
food again.

Steps to Making a Soy Candle

Prior to making a soy wax candle, you will want to have all of
the supplies and equipment in your work area. Once you
have all of that gathered, look at the flashpoint of your
fragrance oil. This temperature will let you know when you
are adding it to the melted wax.
Regardless of the soy wax you will be using:
As a rule of thumb: If a fragrance flash point is below 130F,
then add it to wax at 130F. If the fragrance oil flash point is
between 130-185F, then add the fragrance to the wax at its
flash point. If a fragrance oil has a flash point above 185F,
then add the fragrance to the wax at 185F.
Also, it should be noted that even though you can pour the
GW 444 and GW 464 at 135 degrees Fahrenheit, our testing
has shown that the best looking finished candle is one that is
poured at 110 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature allows
for the smoothest finish in your candle; regardless of what
type of soy wax you are using.

Step 1:
The first step when making a soy wax candle is to start melting your wax. When
melting any wax type, the double boiler process is always recommended. This
process will ensure that your wax melts properly at an even rate. This process
also allows for a thermometer in order to best monitor your wax temperature.
The double boiler process involves getting a pot (or roaster) and placing a few
inches of water into it. Then, place your pot on the stove tops at a medium heat
setting. If you are using a roaster, turn it on a medium heat setting.

Step 2:
Now, while your water is heating, weigh out your soy wax. Once you have the
amount you are looking for, place all of it into your pouring pot. Next, place your
pouring pot into the pot (or roaster). As the water heats up, it will begin to
transfer heat to your pouring pot, therefore melting the wax. This is the double
boiler method.

Step 3:
Once you notice that your wax is starting to melt, place your thermometer into
the pouring pot. This is the best way to monitor your soy wax temperature. Do
Not let the temperature go above 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Occasionally stir the
wax as it melts.

Step 4:
While you are waiting for your wax to completely melt, set your oven to 170
degrees Fahrenheit. Now, while the oven is warming, place your glass candle
jars onto a cookie sheet. When your oven is ready, carefully place the cookie
sheet in. Allow your jars to warm at this temperature for 10-15 minutes. Once
that time has elapsed, remove the cookie sheet from the oven. You will also
want to plug in your hot glue gun now (if you are using glue dots, you do not
need a glue gun).

Step 5:
Check the temperature of the wax. Once it hits 185 degrees Fahrenheit, remove
the pouring pot from the heat source. Now, add your candle colorant and stir
well.
If your fragrance oil flash point is above 185 degrees Fahrenheit: add your
fragrance oil to the melted wax (after the color) at 185 degrees Fahrenheit. Stir
well for at least 2 minutes. This intensive stirring will help the fragrance oil and
color bind with the wax. Place your thermometer back into the wax.
If your fragrance oil flash point is below 185 degrees but above 130
degrees Fahrenheit: add your fragrance oil to the melted wax at its flash point.
Stir well for at least 2 minutes. This intensive stirring will help the fragrance oil
and color bind with the wax. Place your thermometer back into the wax.

If your fragrance oil flash point is below 130 degrees Fahrenheit: add your
fragrance to the melted wax at 130 degrees. This will not completely prevent
scent burn off. Remember, with lower flash point fragrances, you may want to
anchor the scent by blending in another higher flash point scent. Stir well for at
least 2 minutes. This intensive stirring will help the fragrance oil and color bind
with the wax. Place your thermometer back into the wax.

Step 6:
Next, using your hot glue gun (or glue dots), secure and center your wicks to the
bottom of your candle container.

Step 7:
Place your warning label on the bottom of your jar.

Step 8:
Check the temperature of the wax. When the temperature reaches 110
degrees Fahrenheit, it will be safe to pour. Give your wax one final stir before
pouring. Through our testing, we have found that pouring at this temperature
will allow your soy candles the best chance to have a smoother finished
surface.

Step 9:
Now, slowly pour the wax into your candle jar. You will want to stop the pour
where the candle jar changes shape.

Step 10:
Now, straighten your wicks.

Step 11:
Once your candles have been poured, allow them to fully set up undisturbed.
When the candles have fully hardened, lid your jar.

Step 12:
Allow your candle to cure for 24-48 hours.

Step 13:
When your candle has cured; trim your wick. Your
Soy Wax Candle is now finished and ready to
burn. Enjoy!

For a Proper Burn

Do not forget the memory burn should always be the first
burn of your candles. It is also essential to keep your wick
trimmed to inch to ensure the proper burn. And, keep the
wick trimmings out of the melted wax.
As for placement, do not place your burning candle anywhere
there are fans or drafts, this will prevent your candle from
burning properly and evenly, as well as possibly cause your
wick to move and smoke as it burns.

In closing, we hope that this class has

helped to answer some of the questions you
have about making soy candles. We tried to
make this class as thorough as possible.
Though it is true that there are many things
to take into consideration when making a
soy candle, the results of working with this
wonderful and natural wax far exceed your
expectations.
If you are interested in making soy wax
candles, Natures Garden offers wholesale
candle making supplies. If you are curious
and want to try soy wax candle making, we
have a wonderful Soy Wax Kit to get you
started on your new venture.

Cure Time
Allowing your candles to cure will provide
for the best possible cold throw.
Trapping the scent (by placing a lid on
your candle containers) keeps the scent
where it should be (with the wax) and
enables the wax to absorb the scent
even further. A typical cure time for
candles is 24-48 hours.

Thank you for your patronage and support over

the years! Due to this support, Natures Garden
has become the largest distributor of fragrance
oils in the USA; serving more than 100,000
customers world wide! We could not do any of
this without YOU!
42109 State Route 18
Wellington, OH 44090
1-866-647-2368
1-440-647-0220 (fax)
www.naturesgardencandles.com