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Potter Island: Footloose

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FOOTLOOSE murli menon

Just and hour and half boat


ride from the bustling city
of Bangkok, Koh Kret charms
you, thanks to its idyll

potter island
MARCH 2014

16

n the year 1722, when a canal was


constructed as a shortcut to bypass
a bend in the Om Kret branch of
the Chao Phraya River a section was cut
off eventually becoming a separate
island. And Koh Kret was born.
Known for its beautiful clay pottery
and considered one of Bangkoks
hidden treasures it can be reached from
Sathorn pier in approximately 90
minutes by a long-tailed boat. Here,
lives a community of craftsmen famous
for their distinctive style of pottery
which dates back to several centuries!

Descendants of the Mon people of


Koh Kret have managed to retain the
skills of their forefathers. The island, a
centre for kwan arman style of Mon
pottery is fundamentally just baked
unglazed red clay carved with intricate
patterns. Prices for the simplest and
smallest pots start from as low as 5 baht
a piece, but can go up to hundreds or
even thousands of baht for large ornate
pieces. Particularly popular among
visitors are candle and incense holders
with ornate patterns of holes to let the
smoke or light out, averaging around

200 baht. There are some 20 pottery


workshops on the island and one can
see many kilns as one walks around.
Mon potters also make pottery which
can be used in daily life, like soup bowls,
night lamps and aromatherapy lamps.
The other attraction at Koh Kret is
the Wat Poramaiyikawat temple,
constructed in Mon style and which
was built about 200 years ago. In 1873,
King Rama V visited the temple and
ordered the renovation and later on
reconstruction of the main temple.
One starts ones boat cruise at

How to get there?


Bangkok is connected by direct
flights from New Delhi, Mumbai,
Kolkata, Chennai and
Bengaluru. The easiest way to
reach Koh Kret is to take the
once-weekly Chao Phraya
Express Koh Kret tour, which
leaves the Central Pier (BTS
Saphan Taksin) every Sunday at
09am and visits a number of
attractions before returning at
3:30pm. The cost of the cruise
and guided tour is 300 baht
(no lunch).
Where to stay?
Siam City Hotel, located
adjacent to the Phaya Thai BTS
sky-train station, is a convenient
location to stay, as almost all
tourist attractions including
Grand Palace, Wat Arun and
Sathorn pier are easy to reach.
Also the hotel is itself located
which is a tourist attraction in
itself owing to the treasures
of art housed in this palace.
There are no hotels or
guesthouses on Koh Kret.
Most visitors visit Koh Kret
as a day trip from Bangkok.

Sathorn pier which is adjacent to


Saphan Takshin BTS Station and
makes ones way to Nonthaburi pier,
an hour-long ride on the fast flowing
waters of the Chao Praya river taking
you through the rural outskirts of
Bangkok. Alight at Nonthaburi pier to
hire a long tailed boat which will take
you to Koh Kret and return after an
hours halt. Here both sides of the
streets are filled with shops selling
pottery of various kinds. Aroma
therapy candle holders, night lamps
and large pots in a distinctive style are
arranged one on top of the other in
endless rows. Street vendors selling
everything from fried potatoes to
papaya salads are found along the way.
As you walk about 2km you come
across several Buddhist temples whose
spires can be seen from a distance.
The entrance to the temple is small
but one can sight a golden coloured
statue of Quan Yin from the opening.
Behind the temple is a pottery
museum, which details the history of
Koh Kret village and the Mon

tribesmen who came settled here and


continue to make pots like their
forefathers. Several attractive pots and
vases from this village are displayed
and look gorgeous with dim lighting illuminating the exhibits in the museum.
Fresh tropical fruits including
durians, mangosteens, pineapples,
tender coconuts and jack-fruits are
available plenty at the local market
here. Do savour the island specialty
rice preparation, called Khao Cher
which is similar to Orissas pakhalo
in Keralas kanji. A Mon specialty
and favourite during the summer
months, this rice dish is served with
chilled fragrant water and needs to be
is eaten with green papaya salad and
roasted peanuts.
Before you head back to your boat
do check out the souvenirs at roadside
stalls like Thai herbal compress
bags for steam massage, Thai herbs
and of course, pieces of pottery
which can endure the journey back
home lasting the airport conveyor belts
and luggage handlers. 

MARCH 2014

opposite Suan Pakkad Palace,

17

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