England-5-Cumbria v1 m56577569830523202 PDF

Cumbria & the Lake
District
If its grandstand views youre looking for, nowhere in England can measure up to the
dumbfounding drama of Cumbria and the Lake District. Wedged against the Scottish border,
trammelled by the Yorkshire Dales and the grey rollers of the Irish Sea, its a place where
the superlatives run dry home to the nations longest and deepest lakes, as well as the
smallest church, steepest road, highest town and loftiest peak in England. The great glaciers
which carved out this landscape during the last ice age have long since melted, leaving
behind a spectacular string of razor crags, scree-strewn fells and sparkling tarns that form
the heart of one of Englands original national parks the stunning Lake District, founded
in 1951 and still the spiritual heartland of English hiking.
With so much natural splendour on show, its hardly surprising that Cumbria and the Lake
District is one of northern Englands busiest corners. Over 14 million visitors flock to the
national park every year to explore its hilltop trails, literary landmarks and lakeside towns,
and on summer weekends that cloudlike feeling can feel frustratingly elusive. But even on
the busiest days its possible to find some solitude in the countys lesser-known corners
the lush and little-visited Eden Valley, the seaside ports and wind-battered sands of the
umbrian coast, or the bleakly beautiful moorland of eastern Cumbria. And if all else fails
you can always take refuge in a solid old Lakeland inn for a pint of homebrewed ale and a
hearty plate of tattie hotpot, Cumberland sausage or Herdwick lamb. Reet grand, as theyd
say round these ere parts...
HIGHLIGHTS
Conquering William Wordsworths favourite mountain, Helvellyn (p732) or Englands highest
peak, Scafll Pike (p729)

Plumbing the gloomy depths of the Honis-
ter Slate Mine (p730)

Escaping the outside world in the remote
valleys of Wastwater (p723) and Eskdale

(p722)
Chowing down on some first-class Cum-
brian cooking at Hawksheads Drunken

Duck (p718) or Penriths Yanwath Gate
Inn (p741)
Watching the wild ospreys at Bassen-
thwaite Lake (p725)
Bassenthwaite Lake
Honister Slate Mine
Wastwater
Scafll Pike
Eskdale
Coniston Water
Penrith
Helvellyn
Hawkshead
Cruising Coniston Water aboard the steam
yacht Gondola (p720)

POPULATION: 496,200
AREA: 2629 SQ MILES
NUMBER OF LAKE DISTRICT PEAKS
OVER 900M: 5
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

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701
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

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702 C U M B R I A & T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T H i s t o r y
History
The earliest settlers arrived in the Lake District 5000 years ago, building stone circles
like Castlerigg (p727) and quarrying flint and
stone around Stonethwaite and Seatoller. The
region was subsequently occupied by Celts,
Angles, Vikings and Romans, and during
the Dark Ages marked the centre of the
kingdom of Rheged, which extended across
much of modern Cumbria, Dumfries and
Galloway, and was annexed by neighbouring
Northumbria sometime in the 8th century.
During the Middle Ages Cumbria marked
the start of The Debatable Lands, the wild
frontier between England and Scotland. Bands
of Scottish raiders known as Border Reivers
regularly plundered the area, prompting the
construction of distinctive pele towers, built
to protect the inhabitants from border raiders,
and the stout fortresses at Carlisle, Penrith
and Kendal.
The area was a centre for the Romantic
movement during the 19th century, and
writers including Coleridge, de Quincey and
William Wordsworth were among the first
to champion the areas natural beauty above
its potential for industrial resources (a cause
taken up by other literary luminaries including John Ruskin and Beatrix Potter). The Lake
District became one of the nations first national parks in 1951, and the modern county
of Cumbria was formed from the old districts
of Cumberland and Westmorland in 1974.
Activities
CYCLING
Cycling is popular in Cumbria, especially

mountain biking on the fells, but youll need
nerves (and legs) of steel on the more challenging routes. Cycle-hire shops are widespread, and tourist offices stock a cycling map
showing traffic-free routes; bike hire starts at
around 15 to 18 per day.
Long-distance bikers can follow the 72mile Cumbria Way (www.cumbriawaycycleroute.co.uk)
between Ulverston, Keswick and Carlisle,
and the Cumbrian section of the 140-mile
Sea to Sea Cycle Route (C2C; www.c2c-guide.co.uk) from
Whitehaven via the northern Lake District en
route to the North Pennines and Newcastle.
WALKING
For many people, hiking on the fells is the main

reason for a Lake District visit. Trails range
from low-level rambles to full-blown moun-
lonelyplanet.com
tain ascents; most tourist offices sell maps and

guidebooks, including the Collins Lakeland
Fellranger and Ordance Surveys Pathfinder
Guides, as well as Alfred Wainwrights classic
hand-drawn, seven-volume set, A Pictorial
Guide to the Lakeland Fells. If youre planning
on anything more than a low-level stroll in
the Lakes especially if youre heading into
the high fells a decent quality map is absolutely essential. Walkers have a choice of two
map publishers traditionalists generally opt
for the Ordnance Survey 1:25000 Landranger
series, which are renowned for their clarity
and accuracy and are used for reference by
most official bodies. But many hikers prefer
Harvey Superwalker 1:25000 maps, which
are specifically made for walkers and clearly
mark major trail routes (as well as all 214 fells
detailed by Alfred Wainwright in his classic
walking guides).
Wainwright also dreamt up the Coast to
Coast Walk (www.golakes.co.uk/map/walks.asp), which
cuts west to east from St Bees to Robin
Hoods Bay in North Yorkshire, a distance
of 191 miles. The Cumbrian section passes
through Honister Pass, Grasmere, Patterdale,
Kirkby Stephen and Shap en route to the
Yorkshire Dales, a five- to seven-day hike of
82 miles. Walkers also attempt the Cumbria
way (see Cycling).
Door-to-door baggage services can be
useful if you dont want to lug your pack
along the whole route. Contact Coast to Coast
Packhorse (%017683-71777; www.cumbria.com/pack
horse), Sherpa Van (%020-8569 4101; www.sherpavan
.com) or the YHA Shuttle Bus (see p704).
OTHER ACTIVITIES
Cumbria is a haven for adrenalin-fuelled

activities ranging from rock climbing and
orienteering to quad biking, fell running and
ghyll scrambling (a cross between coasteering and river canyoning). Sailing, kayaking
and windsurfing are obviously popular too,
especially around Windermere, Derwent
Water and Coniston.
Check out www.lakedistrictoutdoors.co.uk
for the lowdown.
Getting There & Away

TRAIN
Carlisle is on the main Virgin West Coast

line from London EustonManchester
Glasgow, with trains running roughly hourly
from both north and south.
C U M B R I A & T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T G e t t i n g A r o u n d 703
0
0
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE DISTRICT

Lochmaben A74
A75
Langholm
W
at
er
Lockerbie
M74
Ecclefechan
A711
A75
A7
Eaglesfield
Gretna
Chollerford
Hadria
M74
Blackford
A710
Kingstown
Carlisle
Silloth
Micklethwaite
Orton
Grange
A69
am
poo
Red Dial
A69
Haltwhistle
Brampton
A689
Ed
A68
Alston
Low Hesket
A6
A686
Corbridge
Hexham
A686
en
Mealsgate
Aspatria
l
n's Wal
Warwick Bridge
Warwick
Wetheral
Carleton
Waverton
Solway
Firth
NORTHUMBERLAND
Longtown
Gretna Green
Caerlaverock
Castle
A68
de
l
A709
Dumfries
New Abbey
30 km
15 miles
Re
de
A701
Locharbriggs
Li
d
A76
Crosby
en
E ll
Wolsingham
Plumpton Long Meg &
Her Daughters
CUMBRIA Plumpton Head
The
A595
l
Pennines
A591
A596
Petteri
Penrith
Bassenthwaite
DURHAM
T ee
Lake
Eamont Bridge
Cockermouth
Rheged
Scales A66
s
Workington
Centre
Clifton
Lowther A66
A595
Castlerigg
Crummock Keswick
Hackthorpe
Moresby
Water
Derwentwater Stone Circle
Parton Lowca
Coupland
Appleby
Shap
Ullswater
Barnard Castle
Whitehaven
Frizington Ennerdale
Thirlspot
Brough
Coa
s
Water
A591
Cleator Moor
Kirkby
A66
Co Wa
Bowes
ast
Egremont
Stephen
lk
St Bees
A592 Haweswater
M6 NewbigginGrasmere
Wastwater
Lake
Sellafield
on-Line
District
Ambleside
Gosforth
Nuclear
A685
A6
National Park
Plant
Troutbeck
Seascale
Tebay
Waterhead
Keld
Eskdale
Bridge
Reeth
Boot
Forest Hall
Holmrook
Muker
Thwaite
Ings
A683
Coniston Windermere
Bowness-onRavenglass
Swaledale
Broad Oak
Coniston
Windermere Kendal
Sedbergh
Muncaster
Water
Windermere
Lane End
Wensleydale
Castle
Killington
BroughtonA592 Sizergh
Hawes
A684
Reservoir
A684
in-Furness
A595
Castle
Lowick Newby
Aysgarth
Bootle
Grizebeck Green Bridge
Yorkshire
Foxfield
A683 Dentdale
Dales
Whitbeck
A590
National Park NORTH
Soutergate Arrad
Whicham
High
Milnthorne
Foot
YORKSHIRE
Ulverston Cartmel Newton
Irish
Millom
Arnside Kirkby
GrangeSea
Lonsdale A65
Horton-in- Litton
Lindal-in- over-Sands
DaltonRibblesdale
Furness
in-Furness
Kettlewell
M6
Ingleton
Baycliff
Arncliffe
Barrow-inCarnforth
Aldingham Morecambe
Furness
Bay
Conistone
A683
Stainforth
Roosecote Newbiggin
Grassington
A6
Morecambe
Giggleswick
LANCASHIRE
Settle Malham
3W
Lancaster
Maryport
t to
To get to the Lake District, you need to

change at Oxenholme, from where regular
trains travel west into Kendal and Windermere. There are at least three direct trains
from Windermere and Kendal south to Lancaster, Manchester and Manchester Airport.
For something more soulful, Carlisle sits
along two of the UKs most scenic railways:
the Cumbrian Coast line via Ulverston and
Ravenglass (see Getting Around, p732),
and the SettleCarlisle Railway across the
Yorkshire Dales (see p609).
In the Lakes, you can hop aboard chuffing steam trains on the Ravenglass &
Eskdale Railway (p736) or the Lakeside &
Haverthwaite Steam Railway (p710) from
Bowness/Ambleside to Windermere.
Call %08457 484950 for information on

Day Ranger passes covering the Cumbrian
rail network.
BUS
National Express coaches run direct from

London and Glasgow to Windermere,
Carlisle and Kendal; count on seven
hours between London Victoria and
Windermere.
Getting Around
Traveline (%0871 200 22 33; www.travelinenortheast
.info) provides travel information. Tourist offices stock the free Getting Around Cumbria
booklet, with timetables for buses, trains
and ferries.
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

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CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

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704 T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T
BOAT
Windermere, Coniston Water, Ullswater and

Derwent Water all offer ferry services, providing time-saving links for walkers. Boats
on Coniston and Windermere also tie in
with the Cross-Lakes Shuttle (p718).
lonelyplanet.com
for guests. Hostels on the route include

Windermere, Hawkshead, Coniston Holly
How, Elterwater, Langdale, Butharlyp How
and Grasmere. Hostel-to-hostel transport
costs 3, or 2.50 for bags; transport from
Windermere Station costs 2 to Windermere
YHA, and 2.50 to Ambleside YHA.
BUS
The main operator is Stagecoach (www.stage

coachbus.com). The North West Explorer ticket
(one/four/seven days 9.50/21/30) gives unlimited travel on services in Cumbria and
Lancashire. Twenty-four-hour Dayrider tickets can be purchased from the bus driver.
Borrowdale Day Rider (adult/child 5.25/4) Valid on
Bus 79 between Keswick and Seatoller.
Carlisle Day Rider (adult 3) Unlimited travel in Carlisle.
Central Lakes Rider (adult/child 6.30/4.70) Covers
Bowness, Ambleside, Grasmere, Langdale and Coniston;
includes the 599, 505 and 516.
Honister Day Rider (adult/child 6.25/4.50) Valid on
Bus 77 between Keswick and Borrowdale.
Useful bus routes include the 555 and 556

(Lakeslink) between Lancaster and Carlisle,
which stop at all the main towns; bus
505 (Coniston Rambler), linking Kendal,
Windermere, Ambleside and Coniston; and
the X4/X5 from Penrith to Workington via
Troutbeck, Keswick and Cockermouth.
Weve given bus suggestions based on
summer timetables; most routes run a reduced winter service. You can download
timetables at www.stagecoachbus.com/north
west/timetables.php.
From Easter to October, the YHA Shuttle
Bus connects eight Lake District hostels,
and provides a baggage transport service
CAR
Driving in the Lake District can be a headache, especially on holiday weekends; you
might find it easier to leave the car wherever
youre staying and get around using local
buses instead.
Many Cumbrian towns use a timed parking permit for on-street parking, which you
can pick up for free from local shops and
tourist offices.
THE LAKE DISTRICT

If youre a lover of the great outdoors, the
Lake District is one corner of England where
youll want to linger. This sweeping panorama of slate-capped fells, craggy hilltops,
misty mountain tarns and glittering lakes
has been pulling in the crowds ever since
the Romantics pitched up in the early 19th
century, and it remains one of the countrys
most popular beauty spots. Literary landmarks abound, from Wordsworths boyhood
school to the lavish country estate of John
Ruskin at Brantwood, and there are enough
hilltop trails, hidden pubs and historic country hotels to fill a lifetime of visits. Time to
get inspired.
CUMBRIA ON A SHOESTRING
The Lake District has plenty of lavish country-house hotels and boutique B&Bs, but you dont have
to break the bank to visit. There are several fantastic hostels, housed in everything from shepherds huts to converted mansions; the flagship YHA establishments in Ambleside, Windermere
and Keswick are superb. Reservations can be made at www.yhabooking.org.uk or by calling
%01629 592700.
Camping is also hugely popular in the Lakes, with lots of excellent sites dotted around the
national park. The National Trust runs three sites at Low Wray, Wasdale and Great Langdale (the
last two also offer funky wooden camping pods for 20 to 35 per night); tourist offices publish
an annual Caravan and Camping Guide, or you can visit www.lakedistrictcamping.co.uk.
The Lake District also has several camping barns (sometimes called stone tents). Facilities
are basic; youll need the usual camping gear apart from a tent, although some places provide
breakfast. Contact Lakeland Camping Barns (%01946-758198; www.lakelandcampingbarns.co.uk).
T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T K e n d a l 705
0
0
LAKE DISTRICT
10 km
6 miles
To
Carlisle
(12mi)
Petteril
Maryport
Cu
A596
A6
ia
br
Cockermouth
y
Wa
A66
Bassenthwaite
Lake
Workington
Skiddaw
(930m)
Penrith
Saddleback or
Blencathra
(870m)
Scales A66
Rheged
Centre
M6
Pooley
Bridge
Whitehaven
Cleator
A595 Moor
Buttermere
Buttermere
Honister
Pass
Egremont
Great
Gable
(900m)
Wasdale
Head
Wasdale Head
NT Campsite
Scafll
(965m)
Sellafield
Nuclear
Plant
Wastwater
Gosforth
Seascale
Santon
Holmrook Bridge
Eskdale
Boot
Broad Oak
Lane End
Harrison
Stickle
(736m)
ria
n
Fe gdal
ll e
ou
a
nt
in
Haweswater
Kirkstone
Pass
Elterwater
Ambleside
Troutbeck
Little
Wrynose Langdale
Brockhole National
Pass
Hardknott
Tarn
Park Visitor Centre
Pass
Hows
Staveley
Windermere
Coniston Hawkshead
Hill Top
Esthwaite
Old Man
A591
Bowness-onof Coniston
Water
(803m) Brantwood
Windermere
Grizedale
Coniston
Kendal
Water
Windermere
Cumbria
A595
Great
Langdale
A592
Fairfield
(875m)
Bootle
Whitbeck
Whicham
Shap
Glenridding
Patterdale
Rydal
Mount
Grasmere
La
A593
Irish
Sea
Lake District
National Park
Pike
O'Stickle
(709m)
b
um
Ravenglass
Muncaster
Castle
Ullswater
Thirlspot
Helvellyn
(950m)
Rosthwaite
Seatoller
Scafll
Pike
(978m)
Hackthorpe
A591
Thirlmere
Ennerdale
Water
St Bees
Grange
Way
Crummock
Water
Borr
o
Vallwdale
ey
Grasmoor
(850m)
Moresby
Lowca
Parton
Castlerigg
Stone Circle
Keswick
Derwentwater
Grizedale
Forest
A592
Sizergh
Castle
Aquarium
of the Lakes
Lowick
Green
Newby Bridge
Levens
Hall
Gawthwaite
Haverthwaite
Broughton
Beck
Millom
High
Newton
A590
Holker
Hall
Ulverston
Orientation
The Lake District is shaped in a rough star
formation, with valleys, ridges and lakes
radiating out from the high ground around
Scafll Pike. The busiest bases are Keswick,
Ambleside, and Windermere and Bowness;
Coniston and Ullswater make less hectic alternatives. Wasdale is the wildest and least
accessible valley.
Information
The Lake Districts tourist offices are among
the best in England, crammed with information on local hikes, activities and accommodation, and stocked with trail books, maps
and hiking supplies. The main offices are
in Windermere, Ambleside, Keswick and
Forest
Hall
A590
A6
Milnthorne
M6
Cartmel
Grangeover-Sands
Carlisle, and theres a fantastic visitor centre

at Brockhole (p708). Its worth noting that
Ullswater, Coniston and Derwent Water lakes
have a speed restriction of 10mph, and powerboats are banned on Grasmere, Crummock
Water and Buttermere.
KENDAL
pop 28,398
Technically Kendal isnt in the Lake District,

but its a major gateway, so weve put it here.
Mention Kendal to any seasoned hillwalker
and theyll mumble a single word mintcake.
The town has been famous for its peppermint
treat since the mid-19th century, and its been
a staple item in Englands backpacks ever
since Edmund Hillary and Tensing Norgay
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

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CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

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706 T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T K e n d a l
munched it during their ascent of Everest in

1953). But Kendal is more than its mintcake:
its one of the largest and busiest towns in
the South Lakes, with great restaurants, a
funky arts centre and intriguing museums
to explore.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
USEFUL WEBSITES
www.golakes.co.uk official site of the
Cumbria Tourist Board

www.lake-district.gov.uk the main
website of the National Park Authority
Information
Kendal Laundrette (%01539-733754; Blackhall Rd;
h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun)
Library (%01539-773520; 75 Stricklandgate; per hr 2;
h9.30am-5.30pm Mon & Tue, 9.30am-7pm Wed & Fri,
9.30am-1pm Thu, 9am-4pm Sat, noon-4pm Sun) Internet
access.
Post office (75 Stricklandgate; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri,
to 12.30pm Sat)
Tourist office (%01539-725758; kendaltic@southlake
land.gov.uk; Highgate; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm
Sun Easter-Oct, closed Sun Nov-Easter) Inside the town hall.
Sights
Kendals most famous resident is Alfred
Wainwright, the accountant, writer and inveterate hillwalker who penned the classic
handwritten Pictorial Guides. From 1945 to
1974, Wainwright was honorary curator at the
Kendal Museum (%01539-721374; www.kendalmuseum
.org.uk; Station Rd; adult/child 2.80/free; hnoon-5pm ThuSat), where you can visit a reconstruction of
his old office, complete with the great mans

rucksack, spectacles and well-chewed pipe. An
eclectic collection of archaeological finds and
spooky stuffed animals are dotted around the
rest of the museum.
The Abbot Hall Art Gallery (%01539-722464; www
.abbothall.org.uk; admission 4.75; h10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat
Apr-Oct, to 4pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar) houses one of the
northwests best collections of 18th- and 19thcentury art, especially strong on portraiture
and Lakeland landscapes. Look out for works
by Constable, Varley and Turner, as well as
portraits by John Ruskin and local boy George
Romney, born in Dalton-in-Furness in 1734,
and a key figure in the Kendal School.
Opposite Abbot Hall is the Museum of
Lakeland Life (%01539-722464; www.lakelandmuseum
.org.uk; adult/child 4.50/3.20; h10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat
Apr-Oct, to 4pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar) which re-creates
various scenes from Lakeland life during the

18th and 19th centuries, including spinning,
mining, weaving and bobbin-making. Theres
also a reconstruction of the study of Arthur
Ransome, author of Swallows and Amazons.
Kendals old brewery is now Brewery Arts
Centre (% 01539-725133; Highgate; www.brewery
www.lakedistrictoutdoors.co.uk all
the advice you could ever need on

hiking, biking, ghyll scrambling and
kayaking in Cumbria
www.mountain-bike-cumbria.co.uk
excellent online guide to Cumbrias

MTB routes
www.visitcumbria.com excellent
tourist site covering the whole county
arts.co.uk), an excellent arts complex with two
cinemas, gallery space, cafe and a theatre hosting dance, performance and live music. Its
also the main venue for the Kendal Mountain
Festival (%01539 738669; www.mountainfilm.co.uk), an
annual celebration of all things mountainthemed, with prizes for the top new films,
books and documentaries in the field of
adventure travel.
Sleeping
Kendal YHA (%0845 371 9641; www.yha.org.uk; 118
Highgate; dm from 18; hEaster-Oct; i) Bang next
door to the Brewery Arts Centre, this Georgian
hostel is kitted out in functional YHA fashion. Bold colour schemes keep things cheery,
and theres a choice of five doubles or bunks
in four- to 10-bed dorms. Theres a kitchen,
lounge and cycle storage, plus evening grub
on request.
Heaves Hotel (%01539-560396; www.heaveshotel
.com; Heaves; s from 40, d 62-72; p) Play lord of
the manor at this mansion, surrounded by
4 hectares of grounds and woodland 4 miles
south of Kendal along the A591. Its a trueblue country house, owned by the same family
for the last half-century. The old-fashioned
rooms are cluttered with antiques, old rugs
and gilded mirrors, and most have bucolic
views la Gosford Park.
Balcony House (%01539-731402; www.balconyhouse
.co.uk; 82 Shap Rd; s/d 45/60) A cut above Kendals
other guesthouses, its traditional but comfy
nonetheless. Despite the name, theres only
one balcony room; all are finished in rosy
tones or smart stripy wallpaper, and big
comfy beds, DVD players and bathrobes are

standard issue.
Beech House (%01539-720385; www.beechhouse
-kendal.co.uk; 40 Greenside; s 45-75, d 70-90; p)
Another spiffing B&B with a dash of designer style, inside a creeper-clad house in
central Kendal. Some rooms boast velour
bedspreads and fluffy cushions, others LCD
TVs, chequerboard bathrooms with rolltop
tubs and drink-stocked minifridges; go for
the larger Greenside or Penthouse rooms for
maximum space.
Eating
CAFES
o1657 Chocolate House (%01539-740702; 54

Branthwaite Brow; lunches 2-6) Got a sweet tooth?
Then dip into this chocaholic honeypot, brimming with handmade candies and umpteen
varieties of mintcake. Upstairs, waitresses
in bonnets serve up 18 types of hot chocolate, including almondy Old Nolls Potion
and the bitter-choc Dungeon. Take that,
Willy Wonka...
Waterside Wholefoods (%01539-729743; Kent
View, Waterside; lunches 4-10; h8.30am-4.30pm MonSat) Organic bread, vegie chillis, piping-hot
soups and fair-trade coffee at a much-loved

riverside cafe. Even committed carnivores
wont be able to resist the wonderfully sticky
homebaked cakes.
RESTAURANTS
New Moon (%01539-729254; 129 Highgate; mains

9.50-15; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat) Kendals fooderati flock here for Med flavours mixed with
the best of English ingredients. The decors
contemporary think clean lines and funky
cutlery while the menu ranges from lamb
meatballs with couscous to a stonking great
Cumberland skillet. The two-course pretheatre menu, served before 7pm, is great
value at 9.95.
Grain Store (pizzas 6.50-8, mains 10-16.50; hfrom
10am Mon-Sat) The Brewery Arts brasserie has
recently had a decorative overhaul, but its as
buzzy and busy as ever. The gourmet pizzas
are still in evidence, plus hefty club sandwiches and chargrilled wraps; things get more
sophisticated by night, with enticing mains of
Barbary duck and Cloonacool char.
T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T A r o u n d K e n d a l 707
Brewery Arts Centre, while hipsters head for

metro-chic Mint (%01539-734473; 48/50 Highgate;
hto 2am Fri & Sat), with club nights and DJs at
the weekend.
If all youre after is a pint and a pie, try
the Black Swan (%01539-724278; 8 Allhallows Lane),
or the Ring O Bells (%01539-720326; Kirkland Ave),
where even the beer is blessed the pub
stands on consecrated ground next to the
parish church.
Getting There & Around

BUS
Kendals handiest bus is the Lakeslink 555/556

(hourly Monday to Saturday, 10 on Sunday),
which leaves Kendal en route to Windermere
(30 minutes), Ambleside (40 minutes) and
Grasmere (one hour), or Lancaster (one hour)
in the opposite direction.
There are two daily buses from Kendal to
Coniston (bus 505; one hour) via Windermere,
Ambleside and Hawkshead, while the X35
travels south to Grange before returning
via Haverthwaite Station, Ulverston and
Barrow (hourly Monday to Saturday, four
on Sunday).
TRAIN
Kendal is on the Windermere (3.40, 15

minutes, hourly) line from Oxenholme, 2
miles south of town, which has hourly trains
from Carlisle (16.50, 1 hours) and London
Euston (121, 3 hours).
AROUND KENDAL
Three and half miles south of Kendal along the
A591 is Sizergh Castle (%015395-60070; adult/child
6.40/3.20, gardens only 4.70/2.40; hgardens 11am-5pm
Sun-Thu mid-MarNov, castle 1-5pm Sun-Thu mid-MarNov),
the feudal seat of the Strickland family. The

castle is renowned for its pele tower and for
the lavish wood panelling on display in the
Great Hall.
Nearby, the farm shop at Low Sizergh Barn
(%015395-60426; www.lowsizerghbarn.co.uk) stocks
some of Lakelands finest home-grown produce chutneys, honeys, jams, Cumbrian
puddings and organic cheeses.
Two miles further south along the A6 is
Levens Hall (%015395-60321; www.levenshall.co.uk;
Drinking & Entertainment
house & gardens adult/child 10/4.50, gardens only 7/3.50;

hgardens 10am-5pm, house noon-5pm Sun-Thu mid-Mar
mid-Oct), another Elizabethan manor built
Kendals arty crowd shoot the breeze over

cappuccinos and real ales at the Vats Bar at the
around a mid-13th-century pele tower. Fine

Jacobean furniture is on display throughout
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

DISTRICT
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

DISTRICT
708 T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T W i n d e r m e re & B o w n e s s
lonelyplanet.com
STAVELEY
This little village near Newby Bridge has become a hotbed of culinary creativity, with some
of the Lake Districts top foodie outlets dotted around the villages higgledy-piggledy streets.
Start with doorstop sandwiches at Wilfs Cafe (%01539-822329; Staveley Mill Yard) before sampling
local brews at the Hawkshead Brewery (%01539-822644; Staveley Mill Yard) beer hall. Try a handmade cornet at Scoop (%01539-822866; Unit 5a, Staveley Mill Yard), owned by the Windermere Ice
Cream Co; pick up fresh-baked bread at Le Pain de Paris (%01539-822102; Units 9-11 Mill Yard);
and local sausages and picnic supplies at Lakes Speciality Food (%01539-822713; 5 Bankside
Barn, Crook Rd); then stop for culinary tips at LucyCooks (%01539-432288; www.lucycooks.co.uk; Mill
Yard) cookery school.
the house, but the real draw is the 17thcentury topiary garden, a surreal riot of
pyramids, swirls, curls, pom-poms and peacocks straight out of Alice in Wonderland.
The 555/556 bus (hourly Monday to
Saturday) from Grasmere, Ambleside,
Windermere and Kendal runs past the
castle gates.
WINDERMERE & BOWNESS
pop 8432
Of all Englands lakes, none carries quite the

cachet of regal Windermere. Stretching for
10.5 silvery miles from Ambleside to Newby
Bridge, its one of the classic Lake District
vistas, and has been a centre for Lakeland
tourism since the first steam trains chugged
into town in 1847 (much to the chagrin of the
local gentry, including William Wordsworth).
The town itself is split between Windermere,
1.5 miles uphill from the lake, and bustling Bowness officially Bowness-onWindermere where a bevy of boat trips,
ice-cream booths and frilly teashops jostle for
space around the shoreline. Its busy, brash
and a touch tatty in places, but the lake itself
is still a stunner, especially viewed from one
of Windermeres historic cruise boats.
Orientation
The A592 travels into Bowness from southern
Cumbria, tracking the lakeshore before joining the A591 northwest of town. The train and
bus stations are in Windermere town. Most
of the hotels and B&Bs are dotted around
Lake Rd, which leads downhill to Bowness
and the lakeshore.
Information
Brockhole National Park Visitor Centre
(%015394-46601; www.lake-district.gov.uk; h10am5pm Easter-Oct) The Lake Districts flagship visitor centre is
3 miles north of Windermere on the A591, with a teashop,
adventure playground and gardens.
Library (%015394-62400; Broad St; h9am-7pm
Mon, to 5pm Tue, Thu & Fri, to 1pm Sat, closed Wed &
Sun) Internet access (1 per half-hour).
Post office (21 Crescent Rd; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri,
to 12.30pm Sat)
Tourist office Bowness (%015394-42895;
[email protected]; Glebe Rd; h9.30am5.30pm Easter-Oct, 10am-4pm Fri-Sun Nov-Mar)
Tourist office Windermere (%015394-46499;
[email protected]; Victoria St;
h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-5.30pm Sun
Apr-Oct, shorter hours in winter) In a chalet opposite
Natwest bank.
THE LAKELESS LAKES

This may come as something of a shock (except to pub quiz enthusiasts), but the Lake District
only has one lake Bassenthwaite Lake, just northwest of Keswick. All the other lakes are actually meres (eg Buttermere, Thirlmere, Windermere), waters (Coniston Water, Derwent Water,
Wastwater) or tarns (Sprinkling Tarn, Stickle Tarn, Blea Tarn).
Strictly speaking, a mere refers to a lake which has a large surface area relative to its depth;
a tarn usually denotes a smaller pool of water left behind a retreating glacier; while a water
is simply the traditional local word for a pool or area of water. But youll find the terms used
pretty much interchangeably and after all, Winderwater and Butterwater just dont have quite
the same ring.
T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T W i n d e r m e re & B o w n e s s 709
0
0
WINDERMERE & BOWNESS
400 m
0.2 miles
Chur
ch
St High St
13
Th
e T
err
Train
ace
Station
4
5
20
Vict
S
17
2
t o ri
To Troutbeck & Windermere YHA

(2mi); Brockhole National
Park Visitor Centre (3mi);
10
Samling (3mi); Ambleside (4mi);
Keswick (21mi); Penrith via
11
A591 & A592 (26mi)
d 16
Co
Bir
th
wa
ite
Rd L a
an
d
Rd
it
wa
Brook Rd
d
eR
bi
lB
k
ec
M
il
Rayrigg
Wood
R a y ri
s
en
12 9
Dr
ue
Windermere
r
Tho
To
Ambleside
nba
w
rro
La
k
Rd
k
gW
Be
res
f
SLEEPING
21 The Lakes.........................9
Applegarth Hotel.................10
Archway..............................11
Coach House.......................12
Lake District Backpackers
Lodge..............................13
Oakbank House...................14
or
dL
Cr
ag
lb
Gle
be
St
18
15
K en d al R d
6
Rd
Prom
enad
21
14
Helm Rd
Ash
19
Belle
Isle
Br
ow
a rrow Rd
Fa l
To Windermere
Ferry (800m)
Rd
Crai
BOWNESS-ONWINDERMERE
To Lakeside &
The Aquarium
of the Lakes
dl
Rd
rth
gg R
d
m
Co
o
Wo
Ne
w
A592
Cl
aif
e
ve
St
ak
St
O
d
oa
Br
s Rd
Cre
Main Rd
Rd
lege
Col
e
lleg
Bra
n
tf e ll
Rd
To Blackwell House
To Fair Rigg
(1.5mi); Park Cliffe (3mi);
Newby Bridge (8mi); (800m); Gilpin
Lodge (2mi);
Aquarium of the
A5074
Lakes (8mi)
Sights
Most attractions are dotted around the
Bowness lakeshore. Top draw for Tiggywinkle
fans is the World of Beatrix Potter (%015394-88444;
www.hop-skip-jump.com; adult/child 6/3; h10am-5.30pm
Apr-Sep, 10am-4.30pm Oct-Mar), which brings to life
scenes from the authors books (including

Peter Rabbits garden and Mr McGregors
greenhouse). The displays are unashamedly
aimed at the younger crowd; seek refuge in
the Tailor of Gloucester tearoom if it all gets
a bit too button-cute.
The Aquarium of the Lakes (%015395-30153; www.
INFORMATION
Library...................................1
Post Office.............................2
Tourist Office Bowness.......3
Tourist Office Windermere..4
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Mountain Goat......................5
Windermere Lake Cruises......6
Windermere Steamboat
Museum............................7
World of Beatrix Potter..........8
D1
D1
B4
D1
EATING
Jackson's..............................15
Jericho's...............................16
Lighthouse...........................17
Lucy 4 at the Porthole..........18
C2
C1
C1
C2
D1
B3
B4
D1
D1
B4
DRINKING
Hole in t' Wall......................19 B4
D1
B4
B2
B3
TRANSPORT
Bus & Coach Station............20 D1
Bus Stop for Windermere &
Bowness Buses.................21 B4
from tropical Africa through to Morecambe

Bay. Highlights include a simulated diving bell and an underwater tunnel beneath
Windermeres lakebed, complete with pike,
char and diving ducks. You could arrive by
ferry from Bowness or Ambleside (see below),
aboard the Lakeside & Haverthwaite Railway
(p710), or via bus 618 from Windermere.
The Windermere Steamboat Museum is closed
while plans for a revamped national boating
museum gather steam. Check www.steam
boat.co.uk for the latest news.
aquariumofthelakes.co.uk; Lakeside, Newby Bridge; adult/315yr 8.50/5.50; h9am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar),
Activities
located at the southern end of the lake near

Newby Bridge, explores underwater habitats
Windermere is officially a public highway (the

same as a motorway), a bizzare hangover from
BOAT TRIPS
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

DISTRICT
lonelyplanet.com
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

DISTRICT
710 T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T W i n d e r m e re & B o w n e s s
when the lake was an industrial thoroughfare

for barges ferrying coal, lumber, copper and
slate from the nearby mines. The first passenger ferry was launched back in 1845, and
Windermere Lake Cruises (%015395-31188; www
.windermere-lakecruises.co.uk) keeps the tradition
alive with boat trips aboard modern vessels
and a couple of period beauties dating from
the 1930s. Cruises allow you to jump off at one
of the ferry landings (Waterhead/Ambleside,
Wray Castle, Brockhole, Bowness, Ferry
Landing, Fell Foot Ferry and Lakeside) and
catch a later boat back.
Blue Cruise (adult/5-15yr/family 6.20/3.10/17)
5.40/2.70/14.80, or you can buy combo tickets with the Aquarium and Windermere Lake
Cruises (p709).
Circular cruise around Windermeres shoreline and

islands. Departs from Bowness with an optional stop at
Ferry Landing.
Bowness to Ferry House (adult/5-15yr/family/
2.20/1.20/6.20) Ferry service which links up with the
Cross-Lakes shuttle to Hill Top (p718) and Hawkshead
(p717).
Green Cruise (adult/5-15yr/family 6.20/3.10/17) 45minute cruise from Waterhead/Ambleside via Wray Castle
and Brockhole Visitor Centre.
Red Cruise (adult/5-15yr/family 8.25/4.50/23) North
lake cruise from Bowness to Ambleside.
Yellow Cruise (adult/5-15yr/family 8.50/4.70/24)
South cruise from Bowness to Lakeside and the Aquarium
of the Lakes.
cramped bunk-bed dorms squeezed into a

slate-roofed house down a little cul-de-sac
near the station. Still, the beds are cheap,
theres a cosy lounge (with Sky TV) and the
managers organise biking and hiking trips.
Park Cliffe (% 015395-31344; www.parkcliffe
A Freedom of the Lake ticket allows a days

unlimited travel and costs adult/5-15yr/
family 15/7.50/40. Joint tickets are available
with the Lakeside & Haverthwaite Steam
Railway (return from Bowness adult/5-15yr/
family 13.50/7.20/37.20, from Ambleside
18.70/9.35/52) and the Aquarium of the Lakes
(return ferry & aquarium from Bowness adult/5-15yr/family
15.25/8.70/45.50, from Ambleside 21.75/11.50/61.50).
If youd rather explore under your own

steam, from April to October rowing boats
can be hired for 5/2.50 per adult/child.
Open-top motorboats cost 15 per hour, or
theres a closed-cabin version for 18. Theres
a 10mph speed limit on Windermere.
LAKESIDE & HAVERTHWAITE RAILWAY
Classic standard-gauge steam trains puff their

way along this vintage railway (%015395-31594;
www.lakesiderailway.co.uk; Haverthwaite Station; hmidMarOct) from Haverthwaite, near Ulverston,
to Newby Bridge and Lakeside. There are five

to seven daily trains in season, timed to correspond with the Windermere cruise boats.
Standard returns are adult/5-15yr/family
Sleeping
The main road from Windermere to Bowness
is stacked with wall-to-wall guesthouses; youll
generally find better value uphill than down
by the lakeshore.
BUDGET
Lake District Backpackers Lodge (%015394-46374;

www.lakedistrictbackpackers.co.uk; High St; dm 10-12.50;
i) Rather underwhelming hostel with
.co.uk; Birks Rd; sites for 2 adults incl car & tent 19-25)
Award-winning campsite midway between

Windermere and Newby Bridge along the
A592, with a choice of camping fields (fellside or ghyll-side) and private bathrooms for
an extra 12.50.
MIDRANGE
Archway (%015394-45613; www.the-archway.com; 13

College Rd; d 46-60) Is this the best brekkie in
Windermere? We think so its bursting with
local produce from Lakeland tea to fresh eggs,
homemade muesli, buttery pancakes and drycured bacon. The rooms are none too shabby,
either cool and uncluttered in white and
pine, with hill views to the Langdale Pikes
from the front.
Applegarth Hotel (%015394-43206; www.lakesapple
garth.co.uk; College Rd; s 55-60, d 96-156; p) This fine
mansion, built by the 19th-century industrial
bigwig John Riggs, is one of Windermeres
most dashing guesthouses. Polished wood
panels, antique lamps and stained glass conjure a staid Victorian vibe; cheaper rooms are
disappointingly bland, but the pricier ones
feature four-posters and fell views.
Coach House (%015394-44494; www.lakedistrict
bandb.com; Lake Rd; d 60-80; p) Citrus yellows
meet candy pinks and sky blues at this offthe-wall number, converted from a Victorian
stables. The five rooms have cast-iron beds,
bespoke decor and black-and-white en suite
showers, and theres a cosy sitting room for
guests use. Ask nicely and theyll pack you a
picnic for lunch on the fells.
T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T W i n d e r m e re & B o w n e s s 711
Fair Rigg (%015394-43941; www.fairrigg.co.uk; Ferry

View; d 66-84; p) Pastel blues, country creams
and checked duvets keep things fresh at this
conventional B&B, set back from the touristy
fizz of downtown Windermere. Its hardly
groundbreaking, but a decent option for simple, spick-and-span rooms.
21 The Lakes (%015394-45052; www.21thelakes
.co.uk; Lake Rd; d 70-180; p ) This place gives
the English B&B a well-deserved boot into
the 21st century. Theres a dazzling choice
of camped-up rooms: suites range from
the wood-beamed Grasmere (with flouncy
four-poster and outdoor hot tub) to the chic
Contemporary, with stripped pine, floating
bed, sunken TV and aqua-air bath. Glitzy,
gaudy and great fun.
Oakbank House (%015394-43386; www.oakbank
househotel.co.uk; Helm Rd; d 82-88; p) The pick
of the Bowness B&Bs, inside a slatetopped house along Helm Rd. Rich reds,
peaches and regal blues meet hefty wardrobes, wrought-iron bedsteads, plush sofas
and rugs; the four superior rooms offer a
smidgen more comfort. Lake views throughout, plus access to a nearby country club.
TOP END
Gilpin Lodge (%015394-88818; www.gilpinlodge.co.uk;

Crook Rd; r 135-155, ste 170-195; p) This muchlauded country-house hotel languishes in 8
private hectares 2 miles from the lakeshore.
The feel is formal (plenty of Audis and
Mercedes in the driveway), but its far from
snooty. Rooms are classic, all with moorland views, Molton Brown bath goodies
and upmarket furniture; top of the heap are
the spanking-new garden suites, with cedarwood hot tubs, adventurous wallpapers and
glass-fronted lounges leading onto private
gardens. Mmm.
Samling (% 015394-31922; www.thesamling.com;
Dove Nest; r Mon-Fri 200-490, Sat & Sun 230-520; p)
Three miles north of Bowness, the Samling

estate has been a local feature since the
days of Wordsworth, and it remains one of
Windermeres most posh addresses. These
days the property, spread over 27 hectares,
is a super-indulgent pamper-pad thats much
favoured by the style mags and sojourning
celebs. Ten rustic-chic rooms and self-contained cottages drip with designer trappings:
split-level mezzanines and slate bathrooms
in some, clawfoot tubs, rain showers and
private lounges in others.
Eating & Drinking

Lighthouse (%88260; Main Rd; mains 8-20; hbreakfast,
lunch & dinner) Continental cafe-bar at the top
of Windermere, ideal for pastries and coffee, or something more substantial at lunchtime. Plate-glass windows keep things light
and bright; opt for a streetside table if the
outlooks sunny.
Lucy 4 at the Porthole (%42793; 3 Ash St; mains
10-20; h dinner Wed-Mon) The homely old
Porthole has been overhauled courtesy of the
Lake Districts culinary trendsetter, Lucys of
Ambleside. It boasts the same laidback atmosphere, pick-and-mix menu and wine-bar
feel as the original Lucy 4, only this time steps
from the Windermere shoreline.
Jacksons (%015394-46264; St Martins Sq; mains 1218) An old staple on the Bowness dining scene,
Jacksons is small and unpretentious, with a
dining room dotted with potted plants and
wooden furniture. Straightforward bistro food
duck breast, pan-fried fish, hefty steaks
keep the local clientele well fed.
Jerichos (% 015394-42522; www.jerichos.co.uk;
Waverly Hotel, College Rd; mains from 14-18; hdinner
Tue-Sun) Windermeres top table excels at mod-
ern British cooking, which makes it a fave

with the foodie guides. Tuck into sophisticated dishes Gressingham duck, Scotch beef
and baked portobello mushroom in refined
new surroundings on the ground floor of the
Waverley Hotel.
Hole in t Wall (%015394-43488; Fallbarrow Rd)
Polish off pub grub and ales at this venerable boozer, with the all-essential flagstones
and fireplaces, plus a beer garden in case the
Lakeland weather plays ball.

BUS
Theres a daily National Express coach from

London (32.50, 8 hours) via Lancaster
and Kendal.
The Lakeslink Bus (No 555/556) runs
hourly to Kendal (30 minutes) and on to
Lancaster, and to Brockhole Visitor Centre
(seven minutes), Ambleside (15 minutes) and
Grasmere (30 minutes).
The Coniston Rambler (Bus 505) travels
from Windermere to Coniston (50 minutes, eight daily Monday to Saturday, six on
Sunday) via Ambleside.
The open-topped Lakes Rider (Bus 599)
travels half-hourly (including Sundays) between Bowness, Windermere, Troutbeck,
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

DISTRICT
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

DISTRICT
712 T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T A r o u n d B o w n e s s
Brockhole, Rydal Church (for Rydal

Mount, p715), Dove Cottage and Grasmere
in summer.
TRAIN
Windermere is the only town inside the national park accessible by train. Its on the
branch line to Kendal and Oxenholme (4,
30 minutes, 14 to 16 Monday to Saturday,
10 on Sunday), with regular connections to
Manchester (25.50, two hours, hourly) and
London Euston (123.50, four hours, eight to
10 daily Monday to Saturday, six on Sunday),
and north to Glasgow or Edinburgh.
AROUND BOWNESS
Blackwell Arts & Crafts House

Two miles south of Bowness on the B5360,
Blackwell House (% 015394-46139; www.blackwell
.org.uk; adult/child 6.60/3.85; h10.30am-5pm Apr-Oct,
to 4pm Feb-Mar & Nov-Dec) is one of the finest ex-
amples of the 19th-century Arts and Crafts

Movement. Inspired by the aesthetic principles of John Ruskin and William Morris,
Arts and Crafts was a reaction against the
machine-driven mentality of the Industrial
Revolution, placing emphasis on simple architecture, high-quality craftsmanship and
natural light. Designed by Mackay Hugh
Baillie Scott, the house has all the hallmarks
of classic Arts and Crafts: light, airy rooms,
serene decor, and bespoke craftwork ranging from Delft tiles to handmade doorknobs
and wood panelling. Theres a tearoom and
gift shop for when youve finished moseying
round the house.
Troutbeck
The titchy hamlet of Troutbeck nestles on
a hilltop a mile from Windermere. The
main draw is Townend (NT; % 015394-32628;
adult/child 3.80/1.90; h 1-5pm Wed-Sun Mar-Oct,
to 4pm Wed-Sun Nov & late Mar), a beautifully
preserved Lakeland farmhouse built for

a wealthy yeoman farmer in the 17th century. Topped by cylindrical chimneys and
grey slate tiles, the house contains rustic
artefacts, books and vintage farming tools,
plus original wooden furniture carved by
the Browne family who owned the house
until 1943.
Windermere YHA (%0845 371 9352; www.yha.org
.uk; Bridge Lane, Troutbeck; dm 12-14; hmid-FebNov;
pi) This YHA hostel occupies a white-
washed house with panoramic lake views.
lonelyplanet.com
The facilities are top-notch, with shipshape

modern dorms, a well-stocked shop, a canteen and a gear-drying room. Buses stop at
Troutbeck Bridge, a mile from the hostel;
minibus pickups can be arranged between
April and October.
oQueens Head (%015394-32174; www
.queensheadhotel.com; d 95-120; p ) is like a
Lakeland Tardis. Outside, a solid old coaching inn; inside a bang up-to-date gastropub, where traditional slate and popping
fires mix with offbeat decor and modern
English cooking (braised lamb shank, celeriac pork, pan-fried pigeon). The upstairs
rooms have bags of charm, with a mix of
checks, stripes or flowery prints; space
is tight in the Laal Doubles; the Reet
Grand bedrooms and Four Poster suites
offer more elbow room.
The villages oldest pub is the Mortal Man
(% 33193; www.themortalman.co.uk; mains 8-14),
overlooking the Troutbeck Valley. Hearty
pub lunches are served in the battered bar
or the outside terrace, but the old-fashioned
rooms are overpriced.
Four miles north of Troutbeck along
the A592 is Kirkstone Pass, where you can
stop for sustenance and drink in the views
at the Kirkstone Pass Inn (%015394-33888), before plunging down the valley towards
Ullswater (p730).
The Kirkstone Rambler (bus 517; three
daily mid-July to August, weekends only
mid-March to July and September to
November) travels through Troutbeck to
Bowness and Glenridding.
AMBLESIDE
pop 3382
Sheltering among a dramatic cluster of

fells at the northerly end of Windermere,
Ambleside is one of the Lake Districts
main walking bases. Hill trekkers descend
upon the town to stock up on hiking gear
and supplies before tackling the classic
trails nearby, and it can get uncomfortably
crowded in the summer months. But despite its popularity, Ambleside feels a good
deal less commercialised than neighbouring
Windermere and Bowness, and, with a selection of top-notch B&Bs and restaurants
dotted around its slate-grey streets, it makes
an ideal launching pad for exploring the
central Lakes.
Information
Laundromat (%015394-32231; Kelsick Rd; h10am6pm)
Library (%015394-32507; Kelsick Rd; per hr 3;

h10am-5pm Mon & Wed, to 7pm Tue & Fri, to 1pm Sat)
Internet access.
Post office (Market Cross; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat)
Tourist office (%015394-32582; tic@thehubof
ambleside.com; Central Buildings, Market Cross; h9am5pm) Sells fishing permits, guidebooks and bus passes.
Sights & Activities

Amblesides best-known landmark is Bridge
House, which spans the tumbling brook of Stock
Ghyll downhill from Market Cross. Nearby at
the Armitt Museum (%015394-31212; www.armitt.com;
Rydal Rd; adult 2.50; h10am-5pm), artefacts include
a lock of John Ruskins hair, a collection of
botanical watercolours by Beatrix Potter, and
prints by the pharmacist-turned-photographer Herbert Bell.
Footy fans should check out Homes of
Football (%015394-34440; 100 Lake Rd; admission free;
h10am-5pm Wed-Sun), displaying footy-themed
photos amassed over two decades by the local
photographer Stuart Clarke.
Down by the lakeshore, cruise boats set out
from the Waterhead dock for Bowness (see
p710). Self-powered vessels can be hired from
Low Wood Watersports & Activity Centre (%01539439441; [email protected]), including row
boats (one/four hours 10/25), kayaks (two/
four hours 14/21), canoes (two/four hours
20/26), dinghies (two/four hours 35/53)
and motor boats (one/four hours 18/45).
If youre feeling energetic, Ambleside marks
the start of several well-known walks, including the wooded trail up to the 60ft waterfall
of Stock Ghyll Force, or the three-hour round
trip via Wansfell and Jenkins Crag, with views
across to Coniston and the Langdale Pikes.
Serious hikers can tackle the 10-mile Fairfield
Horseshoe via Nab Scar, Heron Pike, Fairfield
and Dove Crag.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Low Wray (% 015394-32810; lowwraycampsite@

nationaltrust.org.uk; adult 4.50-5.50, 5-15yr 2-2.50, car
3-3.50; hEaster-Oct) Quiet and spacious lake-
side campsite run by the National Trust, with

a supplies shop, bike rental and fab views.
Advance bookings arent taken, so pitch up
early. Its 3 miles along the B5286; bus 505
stops nearby.
T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T A m b l e s i d e 713
Ambleside Backpackers (%015394-32340; www

.englishlakesbackpackers.co.uk; Old Lake Rd; dm 16; pi)
This popular indie hostel occupies a converted
Lakeland cottage a short walk south from
Amblesides centre. Its clean, smart and tidy,
but the bunks are rammed in tight; thankfully
theres room to spare in the cosy common
room and huge stainless-steel kitchen.
Ambleside YHA (%0845 371 9620; www.yha.org
.uk; Windermere Rd; dm from 18; piwi-fi) Further
along Lake Rd, this is another supremely wellorganised YHA hostel, popular for its activity breaks (which run the gamut from water
sports to ghyll scrambling). Clean dorms,
plenty of beds and top facilities (kitchen,
bike rental, boat jetty and on-site bar) mean
its heavily subscribed in high season. At the
time of writing, Ambleside YHA was due to
close for a refurb and planning to reopen
April 2009.
MIDRANGE
Compston House Hotel (%015394-32305; www.compston

house.co.uk; Compston Rd; d from 56) Take your pick
of the Yankee-themed bedrooms at this entertaining B&B, run by an Anglicised New York
couple. Choices include sunny Florida, chic
Manhattan, cowboy-style Texas and maritime
Maine (complete with Cape Cod bedspread),
and even the breakfast has Stateside touches,
including fresh-baked blueberry muffins and
maple pancakes.
Easedale Lodge (%015394-32112; www.easedaleamble
side.co.uk; Compston Rd; d 70-96) Twisted willow,
zingy cushions and wrought-iron bed frames
decorate this immaculate guesthouse on the
corner of Compston Rd. Some rooms are
finished in cappuccino and creams, others
in stripes, florals or cool greys; all have private bathrooms, although not necessarily en
suite.
Riverside (% 015394-32395; www.riverside-at
-ambleside.co.uk; Under Loughrigg; d 82-98; p) Lodged
beside the clattering River Rothay half a
mile from town, this detached Victorian
villa is a cut above. Its the little luxuries
that make it special: a lounge stocked with
walking guides, bathrooms furnished with
ethical bath products, fresh chutneys from
the Hawkshead Relish Company on the brekkie table. Two rooms have spa baths, one a
pine four-poster.
Lakes Lodge (%015394-33240; www.lakeslodge.co.uk;
Lake Rd; r from 90; i) Dont be fooled by the stern
slate exterior: inside this place is modern and
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

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CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

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714 T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T A m b l e s i d e
minimal, all cool colours, funky furniture and

razor-sharp lines. Slate-floored bathrooms
mix with stark white walls in the rooms, all
with flat screens and DVDs. Local bangers and
fresh fruit salad are served up for breakfast in
the puce-and-lilac dining room.
Cote How Organic Guest House (%015394-32765;
www.bedbreakfastlakedistrict.com; Rydal, near Ambleside;
single 98-108, d 110-120; piwi-fi) You wont
find a greener place in the Lakes than this

ecofriendly cottage. Food is 100% local and
organic, powers sourced from a green supplier, and theyll even lend you wind-up
torches and candles (5% discount if you hang
up your car keys, too). The three rooms are
elegantly Edwardian, with cast-iron beds, rolltop baths and fireplaces; sophisticates will
want the top-end Rydal Suite, once used by
ex-president Woodrow Wilson. The house is
in Rydal, 1.5 miles north of Ambleside.
TOP END
Waterhead Hotel (%08458-504503; waterhead@elhmail

.co.uk; r 106-256; pi) City slickers will feel
right at home at this quietly swish townhouse
hotel, revamped with all the boutique trappings: ice white walls, wall-mounted TVs,
mountain-size beds, contemporary fabrics and
a liberal smattering of leather, stripped wood
and slate. The patio-bar is a beauty, nestled
beside the lakeshore, and theres a similarly
sophisticated vibe in the Bay Restaurant.
Eating
Lucy 4 (%015394-34666; 2 St Marys Lane; tapas 4-8;
h5-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10.30pm Sun) A snazzy winebar offshoot of Lucys on a Plate down the
street. Theres a massive list of wines and
beers, plus an eclectic sharing giving Lucys
spin on traditional tapas.
Apple Pie (% 015394-33679; Rydal Rd; lunches
4-12; h breakfast & lunch) This sunny cafe
on Amblesides main street is perennially popular for lunchtime sarnies, jacket
spuds and afternoon cakes, not to mention
its trademark pies (available in sweet and
savoury concoctions).
Zeffirellis (%015394-33845; Compston Rd; pizza
5.50-7.45; hlunch & dinner) Zeffs is a buzzy
pizza and pasta joint which doubles as
Amblesides jazz club after dark. The owners
also run Amblesides cinema; book ahead for
the popular 16.95 Double Feature menu,
which includes a main meal and a ticket to
the flicks.
Lucys on a Plate (%015394-31191; www.lucys

ofambleside.co.uk; Church St; lunch 6-12, dinner 15-25;
h10am-9pm) Lucys started life in 1989 as a
specialist grocery, but over the last decade
its mushroomed into a full-blown gastronomic empire, with premises dotted all over
Ambleside, as well as a Windermere outpost
and a cookery school near Newby Bridge.
This hugger-mugger bistro is still the best of
the bunch. Its laidback and informal, with a
handwritten intro courtesy of the great lady
and offbeat dishes veering from fruity porker
to fell-walker filler. The only drawback? It
gets very, very busy, so plan ahead.
Glass House (%015394-32137; Rydal Rd; lunch 8-14,
dinner 13-19; hlunch & dinner) Housed in a converted watermill (with the original millwheel
and machinery still in situ), this ritzy restaurant is the towns top table. Asian, Med
and French flavours are underpinned by topquality local ingredients Herdwick lamb,
Lakeland chicken, and fish from the north
coast ports. Eagle-eyed diners might remember the restaurant from Gordon Ramsays
Kitchen Nightmares.
Drinking & Entertainment

Ambleside has plenty of pubs: locals favour
the Golden Rule (%015394-33363; Smithy Brow) for
its ale selection, while the Royal Oak (%01539433382; Market Pl) packs in the posthike punters.
Amblesides two-screen Zeffirellis Cinema
(%015394-33100; Compston Rd) is next to Zeffs,
with extra screens in a converted church down
the road.
Shopping
Compston Rd has enough equipment shops
to launch an assault on Everest, with branches
of Rohan (%015394-32946) and Gaymer Sports
(%015394-33305) on Market Cross. Blacks
(%015394-33197; 42 Compston Rd) is a favourite with
hikers, and the Climbers Shop (%015394-32297;
Compston Rd) specialises in rock-climbing gear.

Lots of buses run through Ambleside, including the 555 to Grasmere and Windermere
(hourly, 10 on Sunday), the 505 to Hawkshead
and Coniston (10 Monday to Saturday, six
on Sunday mid-March to October), and the
516 (six daily, five on Sunday) to Elterwater
and Langdale.
Ghyllside Cycles (%015394-33592; www.ghyllside
.co.uk; The Slack; per day 16) and Bike Treks (%015394-
T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T A r o u n d A m b l e s i d e 715
CHAT LIKE A CUMBRIAN

Like many corners of England, Cumbria has its own rich regional dialect. Celtic, Norse, Anglo-Saxon
and the ancient Cumbric language have contributed to a wonderful repository of local words,
many of which youre bound to hear on your travels. As well as the commonly-used beck (river),
ghyll (ravine) and force (waterfall), keep your ears peeled for laal (little), lowp (jump), gander (look),
yat (gate), cowie (thing), yam (home), lewer (money), blether (gossip) and our personal favourites,
jinnyspinner (daddy-long-legs) and snotter-geggin (miserable person).
Cumbria even had its own system of counting, sometimes called sheep counting numerals
since they were once widely used by shepherds throughout northern England. The exact words
vary according across the county, but nearly all start with yan (one), tyan (two), tethera (three)
and climb up to dick (ten), bumfit (fifteen) and giggot (twenty). Only in England...
31505; www.biketreks.net; Compston Rd; per half-/full day

14/18) both rent mountain bikes, including
GRASMERE
maps, pump, helmet and lock.
Even without its Romantic connections,

gorgeous Grasmere would still be one of the
Lakes biggest draws. Its one of the prettiest
of the Lakeland hamlets, huddled at the base
of a sweeping valley dotted with woods, pastures and slate-coloured hills, but most of the
thousands of trippers come in search of its famous former residents: opium-eating Thomas
de Quincey, unruly Coleridge and grand old
man William Wordsworth. With such a rich
literary heritage, Grasmere unsurprisingly gets
crammed; avoid high summer if you can.
AROUND AMBLESIDE
While most people flock to poky Dove Cottage
(right) in search of William Wordsworth,
those in the know head for Rydal Mount
(%015394-33002; www.rydalmount.co.uk; adult/5-15yr
5.50/2, gardens only 3; h9.30am-5pm Mar-Oct, 10am4pm Wed-Mon Nov & Feb), the Wordsworth family
home from 1813 until his death in 1850.

Still owned by the poets descendants,
the house is a treasure trove of Wordsworth
memorabilia. Downstairs you can wander
around the book-lined drawing room (look
out for Williams pen, inkstand and picnic
box, and a celebrated portrait of the poet by
the American painter Henry Inman). Upstairs
you can nose around the family bedrooms (including one belonging to Wordsworths sister
Dorothy, who never married and remained
with the family until her death in 1855). On
the top floor is Wordsworths attic study, containing his encyclopedia and a sword belonging to his younger brother John, killed in a
shipwreck in 1805.
Most of the gardens around the house
were laid out according to Wordsworths
own designs; you can even rest your legs
in the little summerhouse where the poet
liked to sound out his latest verse. Below
the house is Doras Field, which Wordsworth
planted with daffodils in memory of his eldest daughter, who succumbed to tuberculosis
in 1847.
The house is 1.5 miles northwest of
Ambleside, off the A591. Bus 555 (and
bus 599 from April to October), between
Grasmere, Ambleside, Windermere and
Kendal, stops at the end of the drive.
pop 1458
Sights
First stop is Dove Cottage (%015394-35544; www
.wordsworth.org.uk; adult/child 7.50/4.50; h9.30am5.30pm), where Wordsworth penned some of
his great early poems and kick-started the

Romantic movement. Originally an inn
called The Dove and Olive, the house became
Wordsworths first Lake District base; William
and his sister Dorothy arrived in 1799, joined
in 1802 by Williams new wife Mary and the
three eldest Wordsworth children John,
Dora and Thomas born in 1803, 1804 and
1806. The tiny cottage was a cramped but
happy home for the growing family a time
memorably recounted in Dorothys diary,
later published as the Grasmere Journal and
after they were eventually forced to seek more
space at nearby Allan House in 1808, the cottage was leased by Wordsworths young friend
Thomas de Quincey.
Covered with climbing roses, honeysuckle
and tiny latticed windows, the cottage contains some fascinating artefacts keep your
eyes peeled for a pair of Williams ice skates
and a set of scales used by de Quincey to
weigh out his opium. Entry is by timed
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

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lonelyplanet.com
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

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716 T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T G r a s m e re
GRASMERE WALKS
Wordsworth did some of his best composing while tramping around Grasmere, and its worth
following in the poets footsteps. The most popular walk is the 4-mile circuit around Grasmere
and the base of Loughrigg Fell. Redbank Rd leads from the village along the western shore: you
can hire rowboats from the Faeryland Tea Garden (%015394-35060; h10am-6pm Mar-Oct) or
continue though Redbank Woods to Loughrigg Terrace, with views of the lake and Loughrigg
Fell. The trail continues past Rydal Water before crossing the A591 near Rydal Mount. To get
back to Grasmere, follow the old Coffin Trail (used by pallbearers bearing coffins to St Oswalds
Church) for another hour back to Dove Cottage.
Hardier hikers could follow the two-hour trek to Easedale Tarn, or the tougher ascents up
Loughrigg Fell (335m) or Helm Crag (405m), locally known as the Lion and the Lamb. Wainwright
described Helm Crag as the best known hill in the country: you can download an MP3 version
of his guide to the route from www.golakes.co.uk; its read by the narrator of the BBC series
Wainwright Walks.
ticket to prevent overcrowding, and includes

a half-hour tour.
Next door is the Wordsworth Museum & Art
Gallery, which houses a fascinating collection
of letters, portraits and manuscripts relating
to the Romantic movement, and regularly
hosts events and poetry readings.
Youll find several illustrious graves under
the spreading yews of St Oswalds churchyard in
the centre of Grasmere. William, Mary and
Dorothy are all buried here, as well as the
Wordsworth children Dora, Catherine and
Thomas, and Coleridges son Hartley.
Near the church, the village school where
Wordsworth taught is now a famous gingerbread shop (opposite).
Sleeping
BUDGET
Thorney How YHA (%0845 371 9319; www.yha.org

.uk; Easedale Rd; dm 13; hApr-Oct) Tucked away
on a back lane 15 minutes from Grasmere,
this rustic farmhouse is popular with families and walkers (the C2C route runs right
outside the front door). The rooms are spartan, but youll be staying in a historic spot
Thorney How was the first hostel purchased
by the YHA, way back in 1931.
Butharlyp How YHA (%0845 371 9319; www.yha
.org.uk; Easedale Rd; dm 15.50; hdaily Feb-Nov, weekends
Dec-Jan; pi) Youll find more comfort at
this Victorian house a mile nearer the village. Bright, modernish dorms (including
plenty of doubles and quads), lovely grounds
and a decent bar-restaurant (serving everything from puddings to Perry cider) make
this another superior YHA.
Grasmere Hostel (%015394-35055; www.grasmere

hostel.co.uk; Broadrayne Farm; dm 17.50; p) Quaint
farmhouse turned excellent indie hostel, just
off the A591 near the Travellers Rest pub.
Its brimming with backpacker spoils (en
suite bathrooms for each dorm, two stainless steel kitchens, even a Nordic sauna), although it feels cramped when its full. Bus
555 stops nearby.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Raise View House (%015394-35215; www.raiseview

house.co.uk; White Bridge; s/d 48/96; piwi-fi) Look
no further for fantastic fell views. Rolling
hills and green fields unfurl from every window, especially from Helm Crag and the
double-aspect Stone Arthur. The finish is
elegantly English: Farrow and Ball paints,
plumped-up cushions, puffy bedspreads and
starchy linen.
Beck Allans (%015394-35563; www.beckallans.com;
College St; d 62-81; p) Blending in seamlessly
with the rest of the village, this grey-stone
B&B is actually a modern build, so all the
rooms are spacious, light and thoroughly upto-date. Crisp whites and pine furniture predominate, all with gleaming bathrooms, some
with power showers; self-catering apartments
are available for longer stays.
How Foot Lodge (%015394-35366; www.howfoot
.co.uk; Town End; d 66-76; p) Wordsworth groupies will adore this stone cottage just a stroll
from Williams digs at Dove Cottage. The six
rooms are light and contemporary, finished
in fawns and beiges; ask for the one with the
private sun lounge for that indulgent edge.
Lancrigg (% 015394-35317; www.lancrigg.co.uk;
Easedale; r 140-210; p) Originally the home of
Arctic adventurer John Richardson, Lancrigg

now touts itself as the Lakes only 100% vegetarian hotel. All the rooms have individual
quirks: Whittington is lodged in the attic and
reached via a private staircase, Franklin has
Middle Eastern rugs and a four-poster, while
Richardson has a plasterwork ceiling and
claw-foot bath screened by lace curtains. Its
half a mile along Easedale Rd.
oMoss Grove Hotel Organic (%01539435251; www.mossgrove.com; r 225-325; piwi-fi)
Green credentials are second to none at this

ecofriendly beauty: sheep-fleece insulation,
natural-ink wallpapers and organic paints
grace the walls, while the beds are made from
reclaimed timber. This Victorian villa is sexy,
too: bedrooms are massive and minimal, with
bespoke wallpapers, duck-down duvets, Bose
hi-fis and fantastic underfloor-heated bathrooms, and the buffet breakfast overflows with
organic and fair-trade treats. Pricey, yes, but
worth every penny.
Eating
Sarah Nelsons Gingerbread Shop (%015394-35428;
www.grasmeregingerbread.co.uk; Church Stile; 12 pieces of gingerbread 3.50; h9.15am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-5pm Sun)
Dont think about leaving Grasmere without

sampling Sarah Nelsons legendary gingerbread, produced to the same secret recipe for
the last 150 years, and still served by ladies in
frilly pinnies and starched bonnets.
Rowan Tree (%015394-435528; Stocks Lane; mains
3-10, pizzas 6-9; hlunch & dinner) Riverside cafe
with an outside terrace above the brook.
Lunch is mainly sandwiches, baguettes and
pizzas, but supper also offers fishy dishes and
vegie mains.
Villa Colombina (%015394-35268; Townend; lunch
mains 4-10, dinner mains from 12) The old Dove
Cottage tearooms have had a rebrand: salads,
sarnies and sticky cakes by day, with Italianate
flavours after dark, including Tuscan chicken,
steaks, pizzas and risottos.
Miller Howe Cafe (%015394-35234; Red Lion Sq;
mains 5-12; hbreakfast & lunch) This chrometinged cafe-cum-art gallery serves up crusty
sandwiches, baked spuds and handmade pies,
plus the frothiest of cappuccinos and creamiest of cream teas.
oJumble Room (%015394-35188; Langdale
Rd; mains 13-23; hlunch & dinner Wed-Sun) You wont
find a warmer welcome anywhere in Cumbria
than at this boho bistro, run by an energetic
husband-and-wife team with a died-in-the-
T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T H a w k s h e a d 717
wool dedication to Lakeland produce. Its a

bit like having a gourmet feast in your front
room: the informal atmosphere (colourful
cushions, local artwork, jumble-sale furniture) is matched by the down-to-earth menu,
stuffed with local fare, from haddock in beer
batter to handmade game pie.

The hourly 555 runs from Windermere
to Grasmere (15 minutes), via Ambleside,
Rydal Church and Dove Cottage. The
open-top 599 (two or three per hour March
to August) runs from Grasmere south via
Ambleside, Troutbeck Bridge, Windermere
and Bowness.
HAWKSHEAD
pop 1640
Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter both have

connections to Hawkshead, an enticing muddle of rickety streets, whitewashed houses and
country pubs halfway between Coniston and
Ambleside. The village made its name as a
medieval wool centre, overseen by the industrious monks from Furness Abbey (p735), but
these days tourism is the main trade. Cars are
banned in the village, so even on its busiest
days it still feels fairly tranquil.
Sights
Well-to-do young Lakeland gentleman from
across the Lakes were sent for schoolin at the
Hawkshead Grammar School (admission 2; h10am1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-1pm &
2-3.30pm Mon-Sat, 1-3.30pm Sun Oct), including a
young William Wordsworth, who attended

the school from 1779 to 1787. Pupils studied
a punishing curriculum of Latin, Greek, mathematics, science and literature for up to 10
hours a day; no wonder naughty young Willie
carved his name in one of the desks.
Beatrix Potters husband, the solicitor
William Heelis, was based in Hawkshead.
His former office is now the Beatrix Potter
Gallery (NT; %015394-36355; Red Lion Sq; adult/child 4/2;
h10.30am-4.30pm Sat-Thu mid-MarOct), displaying
a selection of watercolours from the National
Trusts Beatrix Potter collection.
The Hawkshead Relish Company (%01539436614; www.hawksheadrelish.com; The Square; h9.30am5pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sun) sells award-winning
chutneys, relishes and mustards, from the

superfruity Westmorland Chutney to beetroot-and-horseradish and classic piccalilli.
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

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718 T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T A r o u n d H a w k s h e a d
THE CROSS-LAKES SHUTTLE

To help cut down on the hideous summer traffic jams, the Cross-Lakes Shuttle (which runs
from mid-March to October) allows you to cross from Windermere to Coniston without setting
foot inside an automobile.
Boats operate from Bowness to Ferry House, from where a minibus travels to Hill Top and
Hawkshead. From Hawkshead, you can catch the X30 bus to Moor Top, Grizedale and Haverthwaite,
or catch another minibus to High Cross and Coniston Water.
Current singles from Bowness: to Ferry House (adult/child 2.20/1.70), to Hill Top (4.70/2.50),
to Hawkshead (5.60/2.90), to Coniston (9.70/5.10) and to Grizedale (7/3.80). A return from
Bowness to Coniston and back costs 16.60/9. The route operates 10 times daily from Bowness
to Coniston, and nine times in the opposite direction (roughly hourly from 10am to 5pm).
The only drawback is that the buses get very crowded in summer, and if all theyre full youll
have no choice but to wait for the next one (you cant prebook). Cyclists should note theres
only space for five bikes on the minibuses.
For info and timetables, contact Mountain Goat (%015394-45161; Victoria Rd, Windermere)
or so a search on www.lake-district.gov.uk.
Sleeping & Eating

Hawkshead YHA (%0845 371 9321; www.yha.org.uk; dm
from 16; i) Hawksheads hostel is a wonder,
set inside a Regency house a mile along the
Newby Bridge road. Grand features cornicing, panelled doors, a veranda make this feel
closer to a country hotel than a hostel. Dorms
are roomy, theres bike rental, and buses stop
outside the door.
Ann Tysons Cottage (%015394-36405; www.ann
tysons.co.uk; Wordsworth St; s 29-55, d 58-78) In the
middle of Hawkshead, this geranium-covered
cottage once provided room and board for
the Wordsworth boys, but its now a pleasant olde-worlde B&B. Rooms are snug and
chintzy; one has an antique bed once owned
by John Ruskin.
Yewfield (%015394-36765; www.yewfield.co.uk;
Hawkshead Hill; d 78-120; p) Run by the owners
of Zeffs in Ambleside, this swanky Victorian
getaway reinvents the B&B experience. Ditch
the doilies and tea-trays: here its all Oriental
fabrics, wool-rich carpets, DVD players and
oak panelling (although the Tower Room has
a more classic feel). Breakfast is 100% vegie
(sourced from the kitchen garden), and the
house is buried in orchards and wildflower
meadows. Its 2 miles west of Hawkshead on
the B5285.
oDrunken Duck (%015394-36347; www
.drunkenduckinn.co.uk; Barngates; r 120-250; p) The
deluxe Duck, two miles from Hawkshead on
the B5285, takes the gastropub concept to new
heights. Its a design mags dream, blending
the 400-year-old architecture of a Lakeland
inn with the bespoke feel of a boutique hotel.
Flagstones and fireplaces mix with rich leather

and slate in the bar (stocked with homebrewed beers from the on-site brewery), and
the same antique-modern vibe runs into the
restaurant (mains 18 to 25), renowned for
its inventive English flavours. The rooms are
bright and inviting, livened up by spoils such
as Roberts radios, enamel baths and antique
chairs; some overlook a private tarn. Golly.

Hawkshead is linked with Windermere,
Ambleside and Coniston by bus 505
(10 Monday to Saturday, six on Sunday
mid-March to October), and to Hill
Top and Coniston by the Cross-Lakes
Shuttle (above).
AROUND HAWKSHEAD
Grizedale Forest
Stretching across the hills between Coniston

Water and Esthwaite Water is Grizedale, a
dense woodland of oak, larch and pine, the
name of which derives from the Old Norse
for wild boar. The forest has been mostly
replanted over the last hundred years; by
the 19th century, the original woodland had
practically disappeared thanks to the local
logging industry.
Over 40km of trails criss-cross the forest,
but Grizedale is best known for its outlandish artwork. Since 1977, artists have created
over 90 outdoor sculptures around the forest, including a wooden xylophone, a wave
of carved ferns and a huge Tolkienesque
man of the forest.
For information on the forests trails, head

for Grizedale Visitors Centre (%01229-860010; www
T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T C o n i s t o n 719
Hill Top
days, Coniston makes a fine place for relaxing

by the quiet lakeside.
The lake is famous for the world-record
speed attempts made here by Sir Malcolm
Campbell and his son, Donald, between the
1930s and 1960s. Tragically, after smashing
the record several times, Donald was killed
during an attempt in 1967, when his futuristic
jet-boat Bluebird flipped at around 320mph.
The boat and its pilot were recovered in 2001;
Campbell was buried in the cemetery near St
Andrews church.
The lake also famously inspired Arthur
Ransomes classic childrens tale Swallows &
Amazons. Peel Island, towards the southern
end of Coniston Water, doubles in the book
as Wild Cat Island, while the Gondola steam
yacht (p720) apparently gave Ransome the
idea for Captain Flints houseboat.
Ground zero for Potterites is the picture-postcard farmhouse of Hill Top (NT; %015394-36269;
Information
.forestry.gov.uk/grizedaleforestpark; h10am-4pm EasterOct), where youll also find Grizedale Mountain

Bike Hire (%01229-860369; www.grizedalemountainbikes
.co.uk; per day adult 20-30, child 15; h9am-5.30pm MarOct, last hire 2pm).
Budding Tarzans can test their skills at

nearby Go Ape (%0870 458 9189; www.goape.co.uk;
adult/child 25/20; h9-5pm Mar-Oct, plus winter weekends),
a gravity-defying assault course through the
Grizedale trees along rope ladders, bridges,
platforms and hair-raising zip-slides.
The X30 Grizedale Wanderer (four daily
March to November) runs from Haverthwaite
to Grizedale via Hawkshead and Moor Top,
meeting the Cross-Lakes Shuttle (opposite).
adult/child 5.80/2.90; h10.30am-4.30pm Sat-Thu, garden

10.30am-5pm mid-MarOct, 10am-4pm Nov-Feb, weekends
only early Mar), where Beatrix wrote and illus-
trated many of her famous tales.

Purchased in 1905 (largely on the proceeds
of her first few books), Hill Top is crammed
with decorative details which fans will recognise from the authors illustrations. The house
features in Samuel Whiskers, Tom Kitten and
Jemima Puddleduck, while the garden and
vegetable patch appeared in Peter Rabbit, and
the cast-iron kitchen range graced many of
Potters underground burrows. Despite Hill
Tops considerable charms, after 1909 Beatrix
lived almost exclusively at nearby Castle Farm;
Hill Top was mainly used as an administrative
base for her expanding property portfolio.
Thanks to its worldwide fame (helped along
by the 2006 biopic Miss Potter), Hill Top is
one of the Lakes most popular spots. Entry
is by timed ticket, and the queues can be seriously daunting during the summer holidays.
Hill Top is 2 miles south of Hawkshead. Bus
505 travels through the village on its between
Coniston and Windermere, or you can catch
the Cross-Lakes Shuttle (opposite).
CONISTON
pop 1948
Above the tranquil surface of Coniston Water,

with its gliding steam yachts and quiet boats,
looms the pockmarked peak known as the Old
Man of Coniston (803m). The village grew up
around the copper-mining industry; these
Coniston Tourist Office (%015394-41533; www

.conistontic.org; Ruskin Ave; h9.30am-5.30pm EasterOct, till 4pm Nov-Mar) The Coniston Loyalty Card (2) offers local discounts, and theres wi-fi for a small donation.
Hollands Cafe (%015394-41303; Tilberthwaite Ave;
per hr 5) Internet access.
Post office (Yewdale Rd; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to
12.30pm Sat)
Sights
RUSKIN MUSEUM
Conistons museum (%015394-41164; www.ruskin

museum.com; adult/child 4.25/2; h10am-5.30pm EastermidNov, 10.30am-3.30pm Wed-Sun mid-NovEaster) explores
Conistons history, touching on copper mining, Arthur Ransome and the Campbell story
the museums latest acquisitions are the tail
fin and the air-intake from Donald Campbells
fated Bluebird boat. Theres also an extensive
section on John Ruskin, with displays of his
writings, watercolours and sketchbooks.
BRANTWOOD
John Ruskin (18191900), the Victorian polymath, philosopher and critic, was one of the
great thinkers of 19th-century society, expounding views on everything from Venetian
architecture to the finer points of traditional
lace-making. In 1871 he purchased Brantwood
(%015394-41396; www.brantwood.org.uk; adult/5-15yr
6/1.20, gardens only 4/1.20; h11am-5.30pm mid-Mar
mid-Nov, 11am-4.30pm Wed-Sun mid-Novmid-Mar) and
spent the next 20 years expanding and modifying the house and grounds, championing his
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concept of organic architecture and the value

of traditional Arts and Crafts over soulless
factory-made materials.
The result is a living monument to Ruskins
aesthetic principles: every inch of the house,
from the handmade furniture through to the
formal gardens, was designed according to
his painstaking instructions (he even dreamt
up some of the wallpaper designs). Upstairs
you can view a collection of his watercolours,
before stopping for tea at the nearby Jumping
Jenny (%015394-41715; lunches 4-8) cafe and
catching a leisurely boat back to Coniston
(see below).
Activities
BOAT TRIPS
For a dash of Victorian elegance, you cant

top the puffing steam-yacht Gondola (%01539463850; adult/5-15yr 6.50/3.30), built in 1859 and
restored to its former glory in the 1980s by
the National Trust. Looking like a cross between a Venetian vaporetto and an English
houseboat, complete with cushioned saloons
and polished wood seats, its a stately way of
seeing the lake, especially if youre visiting
Brantwood (p719). She makes five trips daily
from mid-March to October. And you dont
need to fret about carbon emissions from the
Gondolas steam-plume; shes switched from
mucky coal to ecofriendly waste-wood logs,
cutting her carbon footprint by 90%.
Not to be outdone by the Gondola, the
two Coniston Launches (% 015394-36216; www
.conistonlaunch.co.uk) were converted to run
on solar panels in 2005, making them just
about the greenest ferries in England. The
Northern route (adult/three to16 years return 6.20/3.10) calls at the Waterhead
Hotel, Torver and Brantwood, while the
Southern route (adult/three to 16 years return 8.60/4.80) sails to the jetties at Torver,
Water Park, Lake Bank, Sunny Bank and
Brantwood via Peel Island. You can break
your journey and walk to the next jetty;
trail leaflets are sold on board for 1.80.
Extra cruises available are the Campbells on
Coniston (adult/five to 15 years 8/5; departing 1pm Tuesday mid-March to October) and
Swallows and Amazons (adult/five to 15 years
9/5.50; 12.35pm Wednesday mid-March
to October).
Coniston Boating Centre (%015394-41366; Coniston
Jetty) hires out rowing boats, Canadian canoes
and motorboats.

WALKING
If youre in Coniston to hike, chances are

youve come to conquer the Old Man (7.5
miles, four to five hours). Its a steep but rewarding climb past Conistons abandoned
copper mines to the summit, from where the
views stretch to the Cumbrian Coast on a
clear day.
Another popular trail leads to Tarn Hows, a
man-made lake backed by woods and mountains, donated to the National Trust by Beatrix
Potter in 1930, and now a favourite hang-out
for red squirrels. Its a 5-mile round-trip of
around three hours. The tourist office has
leaflets on more walks and the annual Coniston
Walking Festival (www.conistonwalkingfestival.org), held
in September.
Summitreks (%015394-41212; www.summitreks
.co.uk; 14 Yewdale Rd) arranges outdoor activities
in the Coniston area.
Sleeping
Coniston Hall Campsite (%015394-41223; sites from
12; hEaster-Oct) Busy lakeside campsite a mile
from town, with plenty of showers, a laundry
room and a small shop although it can be
tough to find a peak-season pitch.
Coppermines YHA (%0845 371 9630; www.yha
.org.uk; dm 14; h Easter-Oct) Hikers tackling
the Old Man get a head start at this former
mine-managers house, huddled a couple of
miles into the mountains along an unmetalled road. The small dorms, battered furniture and cosy kitchen are all part of the
backcountry charm.
Holly How YHA (%0845 371 9511; www.yha.org.uk;
Far End; dm 16) Conistons main hostel occupies a slate-fronted period house along the
road towards Ambleside, and offers the usual
YHA facilities: kitchens, evening meals and
bike hire, with a choice of four-, eight- or
10-bed dorms. Its a school-trip favourite, so
book ahead.
Crown Inn Coniston (%015394-41243; Tilberthwaite
Ave; www.crowninnconiston.com; s 50, d 80-95; p) The
bedrooms at this solid old inn have been given
a spicy overhaul, and theyre now spacious
and comfortably equipped, with large beds
and decent hot tubs for a posthike soak.
oYew Tree Farm (%015394-41433; www
.yewtree-farm.com; s 70, d 100-114) Farmhouses dont
come finer than this whitewashed, slate-roofed
beauty, which doubled for Hill Top in Miss
Potter (fittingly, since Beatrix Potter owned
Yew Tree in the 1930s). Its still a working
T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T L a n g d a l e 721
SOMETHING FOR THE WEEKEND

Start your weekend in Keswick with a romantic twilight cruise across Derwent Water (p727)
before checking into the swish rooms at Howe Keld (p727).
On Saturday head south via Wordsworths former houses at Rydal Mount (p715) and Dove
Cottage (p715). After lunch at the Jumble Room (p717) energetic types could tackle the trail to
Helm Crag (p716) or follow the easier stroll around the lake via the Coffin Trail (p716). Overnight
in serious style at Moss Grove (p717) or the Waterhead (p714) in Ambleside, with an evening
meal courtesy of Lucys (p714).
On Sunday morning travel via the pretty village of Hawkshead (p717) and Beatrix Potters
house at Hill Top (p719), followed by a fantastic Sunday lunch at the Drunken Duck (p718),
and an afternoon cruising on board the Coniston Launches (opposite) to John Ruskins country
estate, Brantwood (p719). If theres time, late afternoon tea at Yew Tree Farm (opposite) is a
must. Finish things off with some culinary fireworks and boutique rooms at LEnclume (p734)
in Cartmel or at the Queens Head (p712) in Troutbeck.
farm, but these days offers luxurious lodgings

alongside the cowsheds. Cream of the crop is
Tarn Hows with its wood-frame rafters, slatefloored bathroom and regal four-poster bed. If
its fully booked, console yourself with a nutty
flapjack or a Hot Herdwick sandwich at the
delightful Yew Tree Tea Room next door.
Wheelgate Country Guest House (%015394-41418;
www.wheelgate.co.uk; Little Arrow; d 74-84) As long as
you dont mind florals and frills, youll be
happy at this creeper-covered cottage in the
centre of Coniston. The rooms are named
after local lakes: try Derwent if you like
oak-beamed character, Buttermere if youre
a sucker for four-posters, and Coniston for
countryside views.
Eating
Bluebird Cafe (%015394-41649; Lake Rd; lunches 4-8;
hbreakfast & lunch) Beside the Coniston jetty, the
busy Bluebird is a fine spot for tea and cakes
or a quick ice cream before hopping aboard
the cross-lake launch.
Black Bull (%015394-41335; www.conistonbrewery
.com; Yewdale Rd; mains 6-14; hlunch & dinner) Local
punters and visiting hikers alike swing by
the Old Bull for the best home-brewed ale in
the Lakes, especially the trademark Bluebird
Bitter and Old Man Ale. Pub grub is served
in front of the log-fuelled fire: try the fantastic Cumberland Sausage platter, or tuck into
locally hooked Esthwaite trout.
Sun Hotel (%015394-41248; www.thesunconiston
.com; mains 12-20; hlunch & dinner) Squatting on
the hillside, this old coaching inn has been
whetting Conistons whistles for centuries,
but its best known for its association with
Donald Campbell, who was headquartered
here during his fateful campaign. Campbell

memorabilia litters the inn, and youll find
solid, uncomplicated fare in the bar (which
still boasts its original range and 16th-century
flagstoned floor).

Bus 505 runs from Windermere (10 Monday
to Saturday, six on Sunday mid-March to
October), via Ambleside, with a couple of
daily connections to Kendal (1 hours).
The Ruskin Explorer ticket (adult/child
14.95/6.50) includes the Windermere bus
fare, a Coniston launch ticket and entrance to
Brantwood; pick it up from the tourist office
or the bus driver.
LANGDALE
Travelling north from Coniston, the road
passes into increasingly wild, empty countryside. Barren hilltops loom as you travel north
past the old Viking settlement of Elterwater en
route to Great Langdale, where the main road
comes to an end and many of the Lakes greatest trails begin including the stomp up the
Langdale Pikes past Harrison Stickle (736m)
and Pike o Stickle (709m), and the spectacular ascent of Crinkle Crags (819m). An old
road (now sealed with tarmac, although still
one of the steepest and windiest in the entire
country) leads through Little Langdale over
Wrynose and Hardknott Passes to the coast,
passing a ruined Roman fort en route.

Bus 516 (the Langdale Rambler, six daily, five
on Sunday) is the only scheduled bus service
to the valley, with stops at Ambleside, Skelwith
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Bridge, Elterwater, and the Old Dungeon

Ghyll Hotel in Great Langdale.
Elterwater
Ringed by trees and fields, the small, charming lake of Elterwater derives its name from
the Old Norse for swan, after the colonies
of whooper swans that winter here. With its
maple-shaded village green and quiet country
setting, its a popular base for exploring the
Langdale fells.
Langdale YHA (%0845 371 9748; www.yha.org
.uk; High Close, Loughrigg; dm 12; hMar-Oct; pi),
halfway between Grasmere and Elterwater,
has an impressive Victorian facade, but the
rooms are standard YHA. Lots of dorm-size
choice though, and good amenities including
laundry, shop and games room.
Elterwater YHA (%0845 371 9017; www.yha.org.uk; dm
14; hEaster-Oct; i) is lodged inside an old barn
and farmhouse opposite the village pub. Its
institutional easy-clean fabrics, boardingschool bunk beds and a functional kitchen
but dead handy for local trails.
The smart Eltermere Country House Hotel
(%015394-37207; www.eltermere.co.uk; d from 90; p)
near the village YHA has 15 pleasant, modern rooms and lovely lakeside grounds, and
a private jetty onto Elterwater.
The lovely old Britannia Inn (%015394-37210;
www.britinn.net; d 94-114;p) is a longstanding
walkers favourite. All the rooms have been
redone with fresh fabrics and shiny en suites,
and hikers cram into the downstairs bar for
hearty steaks, pints and pies (mains 8 to 16).
The Sunday roast is rather fine, too.
Great Langdale
Hemmed in by towering hills, this little hamlet is one of the Lake Districts classic walking centres. Some of the most famous (and
challenging) Lakeland fells are within reach,
including Pike o Blisco (705m), Crinkle Crags
(859m) and the chain of peaks known as the
Langdale Pikes: Pike O Stickle (709m), Loft
Crag (682m), Harrison Stickle (736m) and
Pavey Ark (700m).
Many hikers choose to kip at the Great
Langdale Campsite (%37668; langdalecamp@national
trust.org.uk; adult 4.50-5.50, child 2-2.50, car 3-3.50), a
typically well-run NT campground a mile up
the valley.
The classic stay in Great Langdale is the Old
Dungeon Ghyll (%015394-37272; www.odg.co.uk; d 100110; p), backed by soaring fells and built from
lonelyplanet.com
sturdy Lakeland stone. Its been the getaway

of choice for many well-known walkers and
its still endearingly old-fashioned: country
chintz, battered armchairs and venerable furniture in the rooms; oak beams, wood tables
and a crackling fire in the walkers bar; and
more history per square inch than practically
anywhere in the Lakes.
For more contemporary trappings, try the
ivy-clad New Dungeon Ghyll (%015394-37213; www
.dungeon-ghyll.co.uk; d 108-120; p) next door.
The Stickle Barn (%015394-37356; Great Langdale;
mains 4-12) is a popular choice for a posthike
dinner, with curries, casseroles and stews to
warm those weary bones. Theres basic dorm
accommodation in the bunkhouse out back.
Little Langdale
Separated from Great Langdale by Lingmoor
Fell (459m), Little Langdale is a quiet village
on the road to Wrynose Pass. There are many
little-known walks nearby, and at the head
of the valley is the Three Shire Stone, marking
the traditional meeting point of Cumberland,
Westmoreland and Lancashire.
The only place to stay is the Three Shires Inn
(%015394-37215; www.threeshiresinn.co.uk; d 76-106;
p), ideally placed for walkers on the route to
Lingmoor Fell via Blea Tarn. There are lunch

mains for 7.25 to 8.75, and dinner mains
from 14.
ESKDALE
Strap yourself in: the road west from Little
Langdale into the Eskdale Valley is a rollercoaster, snaking across glacial valleys and
empty hills all the way to the Cumbrian
coast, traversing two of the countrys steepest roads, Wrynose Pass (1 in 4 1m up
for every 4m forward) and Hardknott Pass
(1 in 3) en route. If you dont feel up the
challenge of the twin passes (a seriously
wise decision on busy summer weekends
and icy winter days), you can also reach
Eskdale from the west via the turn-off near
Gosforth, or via bus or the Ravenglass &
Eskdale Railway (p736).
Perched above Eskdale are the ruins of
Hardknott Roman Fort, which once guarded
the old pack route from the Roman harbour
at Ravenglass (p736). You can still make
out the foundations of the commandants
house, watchtowers and parade ground,
and the views are eye-popping, but you cant
help feeling sympathy for the legionaries
stationed here its hard to think of a lonelier spot in the entire Roman Empire.
Three miles further down the valley is
shoebox-sized Boot, which hosts a hearty beer
festival (www.bootbeer.co.uk) every June. Its also
handy for Dalegarth, the eastern terminus of
the Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway (p736).
Hunkering under the hills, the purposebuilt Eskdale YHA (%0845 371 9317; www.yha.org.uk;
Boot; dm 16; hEaster-Oct) is a favourite waypoint
for walkers and Ravenglass railway travellers.
Zingy pinks, yellows and tangerines liven up
the dorms and TV lounge, theres bike rental
and a decent kitchen, and endless walks start
right outside the front door.
Boot Inn (%0845 130 6224; www.bootinn.co.uk; Boot;
mains 7-12; p) Boots boozer is a beauty, offering hale and hearty Lakeland food and local
ales served at the green-slate bar. The beer
gardens particularly nice, with great views
and play-areas to keep the nippers happy.
There are also single rooms available for 50,
doubles 100.
Just east of Boot, the Woolpack Inn (%01946723230; p) has its own microbrewery concocting homemade ales for the two hugger-mugger
baas, both covered in sporting prints and
country memorabilia. The grubs good and
theres often live music (think fiddles and guitars), but the upstairs rooms are overpriced
(65 to 120).
Apart from the Ravenglass steam railway
and Shanks pony, theres no public transport
to Eskdale.
WASDALE
Hunched at the end of a twisting road,
the valley of Wasdale is as close as youll
get to true wilderness in the Lake District.
Surrounded by a brooding circle of screescattered peaks, including the summits
of Scafll Pike and Great Gable, its a
world away from the bustling quays of
Windermere: the only signs of human
habitation are a couple of cottages and a
sturdy inn, dwarfed by the green-grey arc of
Wastwater, Englands deepest lake. For many
walkers this is the quintessential location for
Lakeland hiking classic routes to the summits of Great Gable, Lingmell and Scafll
Pike all start off from the Wasdale Head
area. Little wonder that Wasdale recently
topped a television poll to find Britains favourite view: you wont find a grander spot
this side of the Scottish highlands.
T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T W a s d a l e 723
WASDALES WHITE LIES

Cumbrians are renowned for their tall tales,
but Will Ritson, a popular 19th-century publican, took the propensity and finessed it
into an art, telling porkies about giant turnips and a cross between a foxhound and
a golden eagle (it could leap of drystone
walls, see). In honour of Ritson, the Bridge
Inn at Santon Bridge holds the Worlds
Biggest Liar Contest (www.santonbridgeinn
.com/liar) every November.
The only place for supplies is the Barn

Door Shop (%019467-26384; www.wasdaleweb.com)
at Wasdale Head, right next to the Wasdale
Head Inn.
Sleeping
Wasdale Head Campsite (%019467-26220; www
.wasdalecampsite.org.uk; adult 4.50-5.50, child 2-2.50, car
3-3.50) This NT campsite is in a fantastically
wild spot, nestled beneath the Scafll range

a mile from Wastwater. Facilities are basic
(laundry room, showers and not much else),
but the views are fine.
Wastwater YHA (%0845 371 9350; www.yha.org.uk;
Wasdale Hall, Nether Wasdale; dm 12; hyear-round by advance booking) Another stunning Lakeland hostel
in a half-timbered 19th-century Gothic mansion in Nether Wasdale, at the lakes western

end. Theres a restaurant serving Cumbrian
nosh and real ales, and many dorms have
outlooks across the water.
Rainors Farm (%019467-25934; www.rainorsfarm
.co.uk; s 30-40, d 55-65) Three sweet rooms in
a whitewashed farmhouse cottage, prettied
up with checks, crimson spreads and country views. Theres a choice of traditional or
vegie breakfasts, and campers can bunk down
in a back-garden yurt (550 per week). Its
in Gosforth, about 5 miles west of Nether
Wasdale.
Strands Inn (%019467-26237; www.strandshotel.com;
Nether Wasdale; s/d 50/75) This unpretentious inn
does a decent supper (pigeon breast, braised
rabbit pt, black pudding stack) and brews
its own ale, but the white and pine rooms are
on the simple side.
Lingmell House (%019467-26261; www.lingmell
house.co.uk; Wasdale Head; d 60; p) If youre really
looking to escape, this stern granite house is
the place, perched at the end of the valleys
road. The rooms are sparse dont expect
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creature comforts, or even much furniture

but at least traffic noise wont be a problem.
oWasdale Head Inn (%019467-26229; www
.wasdale.com; d 108-118; p) This historic inn can
stake a claim as the spiritual home of English
mountain climbing: one of the inns early
owners, Will Ritson, was among the adventurous gaggle of Victorian gents who pioneered
the techniques of early mountaineering in
the late 19th century. Dog-eared photos and
climbing memorabilia are dotted around the
inn, and upstairs youll find simple, snug
rooms crammed with character: for more
space, ask for one of the barn-conversion
rooms across the way. Home-brewed ales,
hearty food and a genuine slice of Lakeland
history what more could you ask for?
The Wasdale Taxibus (%019467-25308) runs between Gosforth and Wasdale twice daily on
Thursday, Saturday and Sunday; ring to book
a seat.
Wordsworth. Cockermouths main attraction

is Wordsworth House (NT; %01900-824805; Main St; adult/
child 5.60/2.80; h11am-4.30pm Mon-Sat mid-MarOct),
where all five Wordsworth children were born
(William was the second to arrive, born on 7
April 1770, followed a year later by Dorothy).
Built around 1745, the elegant Georgian mansion has been painstakingly restored based on
family accounts from the Wordsworth archive.
Highlights include the flagstoned kitchen, the
grand 1st-floor drawing room and the beautiful
walled garden, immortalised in Wordsworths
epic poem The Prelude.
For something less cerebral, head for
Jennings Brewery (%01900-821011; www.jennings
brewery.co.uk; adult/over 12yr 5.50/2.50), which has
been plying Cumbrias pubs with traditional
ales and bitters since 1874. Tours of the
brewery include a tasting session in the Old
Cooperage bar; try the golden Cocker Hoop,
malty Cumberland Ale or the extravagantly
named Sneck Lifter.
Castlegate House Gallery (%01900-822149; www
COCKERMOUTH
.castlegatehouse.co.uk; h10.30am-5pm Fri, Sat & Mon, 2.304.30pm Sun) exhibits local artwork in a Georgian
pop 8225
Plonked in flat fields beyond the northerly

fells, Cockermouth is best known as the birthplace of William Wordsworth and the home
base of one of Cumbrias largest beer makers, Jennings Brewery. Its a quiet, workaday kind of town; Georgian houses and old
coaching inns line the main street, and the
valleys of Borrowdale and Buttermere are
within easy reach.
Information
Cockermouth (www.cockermouth.org.uk) Useful town
guide.
Library (%01900-325990; Main St; per 30 min 1;

h10am-7pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 9am-noon Thu & Sat)
Internet access.
Post office (South St; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am12.30pm Sat) Inside Lowther Went shopping centre.
Tourist office (%01900-822634; cockermouthtic@
co-net.com; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun
Jul-Aug, 9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat Apr-June & Sep-Oct,
9.30am-4pm Mon-Fri & 10-2pm Sat Jan-Mar & Nov-Dec)
Inside the grand town hall.
Sights
Cockermouth boasts two famous sons. Fletcher
Christian, lead mutineer on the Bounty, was
born outside town in 1764, but the town is
better known as the birthplace of William
house opposite the 12th-century Cockermouth

Castle, now a private residence.
Sleeping
Cockermouth YHA (%0845 371 9313; www.yha.org.uk;
Double Mills; dm 14; hApr-Oct) There are just three
dorms inside this converted 17th-century
watermill, so its much quieter than many
Lakeland hostels. Camping space and cycle
storage are available, but theres no cafe, so
youll be cooking your own meals.
Six Castlegate (%01900-826749; www.sixcastlegate
.co.uk; 6 Castlegate; s 35-45, d 60-75; iwi-fi) Grade-II
listed mansion thats had a comprehensive
facelift, retaining its Georgian interiors while
bringing the rooms bang up to date. Feather
pillows, flat-screen TVs (all with Freeview),
lofty ceilings and sparkling showers make this
Central Cockermouths choicest sleep.
Croft House (%01900-827533; www.croft-guesthouse
.com; 6/8 Challoner St; s/d 38/65; piwi-fi) This fancy
number boasts chicly styled rooms in creams
and purples, reclaimed timber floors and wallmounted LCD TVs (one room has funky bunk
beds for the kids). Vegie options and locally
sourced bangers grace the morning table.
oOld Homestead (%01900-822223; www
.byresteads.co.uk; Byresteads Farm; d 70-90; p) If youve
got wheels, this posh farm conversion 2 miles
west of Cockermouth is an utter delight.
T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T K e s w i c k 725
THE BASSENTHWAITE OSPREYS

In 2001 the first wild ospreys to breed in England for 150 years set up home at Bassenthwaite
Lake, near Keswick. These magnificent birds of prey were once widespread, but were driven to
extinction by hunting, environmental degradation and egg collectors. The last wild breeding pair
was destroyed in Scotland in 1916, but following years of careful conservation the ospreys have
slowly recolonised several areas of the British Isles.
Over the last few years, the birds have usually arrived at Bassenthwaite in April, spending the
summer at the lake before heading for Africa in late August or early September. There are two
official viewpoints, both in Dodd Wood, about 3 miles north of Keswick on the A591 (follow
signs for Dodd Wood and Cattle Inn). The lower hide (h10am-5pm) is about 15 minutes walk
from the car park at Mirehouse, and the new upper hide (h10.30am-4.30pm) is half an hour
further. Theres an informative osprey display and live video feed at the Whinlatter Forest Park
visitor centre (%017687-78469; Braithwaite, near Keswick; h10am-5pm Apr-Aug).
A special Osprey Bus (six on weekends April to mid-July, daily mid-July to August) runs from
Keswick; alternatively catch the X4 from Penrith or Cockermouth, or the X5 or 77 from Keswick.
Disabled visitors can arrange for access to the lower hide by calling the Whinlatter Visitor Centre.
Find out more at www.ospreywatch.co.uk.
The farmhouse clutter has been cleared to

leave light, airy rooms with just a few rustic
touches for character (a wood rafter here, a
stone tile or hardwood mirror there). Top
choices are the Cruck rooms (with burnished
leather sofas) and the Masters Room (with
handcrafted four-poster bed), both with
vistas across 73-odd hectares of working
sheep farm.
Eating & Drinking

Merienda (%01900-822790; 7a Station St; mains 4-8;
hbreakfast & lunch, to 10pm Fri) Savour light bites,
authentic tapas and open-faced sandwiches
at this sunny Med-style diner, with an admirable penchant for fair-trade goods, local
producers and specialist coffees.
Quince & Medlar (%01900-823579; 13 Castlegate; www
.quinceandmedlar.co.uk; mains from around 14; hdinner TueSat) Who ever said vegie food had to be bland?
Forget your clichd quiches and nut roasts,

here at the Quince things are rather spicier.
Depending on the season, you could find
yourself tucking into Indian spinach globes,
Cumberland cheese roulade or butternut-andbean bakes wrapped in vine leaves, all served
in the august surroundings of a Georgian dining room. Take that, you carnivores...
Bitter End (%01900-828993; Kirkgate) From the
sublime to the ridiculous; alongside king-size
Jennings is this miniature microbrewery and
village pub, where the beers are brewed in
time-honoured fashion using barley, wheat,
hops and Cumbrian spring water (pint o
Cuddy Lugs, anyone?)

The X4/X5 (13 Monday to Saturday, six
on Sunday) travels from Workington via
Cockermouth on to Keswick (35 minutes)
and Penrith (1 hours).
KESWICK
pop 5257
Ask many people for their picture-perfect

image of a Lakeland town, and chances are
theyll come up with something close to
Keswick. This sturdy slate town is nestled
alongside one of the regions most idyllic
lakes, Derwent Water, a silvery curve studded by wooded islands and criss-crossed
by puttering cruise boats. Keswick makes a
less frantic Lakeland base than Ambleside or
Windermere, but theres plenty to keep you
occupied: classic trails rove the surrounding
hilltops, and the town is home to a clutch
of oddball attractions including an original
Batmobile and the worlds largest pencil.
Information
Keswick Laundrette (%017687-75448; Main St;
h7.30am-7pm)
Keswick & the North Lakes (www.keswick.org)

Comprehensive guide to all things Keswick.
Post office (%017687-72269; 48 Main St; h9am5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat)
Tourist office (%017687-72645; keswicktic@lake-dis
trict.gov.uk; Moot Hall, Market Pl; h9.30am-5.30pm AprOct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar) Sells discounted launch tickets.
U-Compute (%017687-72269; 48 Main St; h9am5.30pm; per hr 3) Internet access above the post office.
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

DISTRICT
lonelyplanet.com
0
0
KESWICK
300 m
0.2 miles
To Latrigg (3.5mi);
Skiddaw (3.5mi);
Carlisle (36mi) via A66
27
Daleston
Court
7
Gr
To A66 (600m);
Nichol End Marine (1.5mi);
Cockermouth (14mi)
eta
y Rd
Rd
tio
Sta
ra
ncath
12
18
Rd
ke
a
25
L
21
Ratclif
f Pl
Chu
rch St
St Herbert St
ad
10
15
t
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elly
Helv
Eskin St
Joh
n'
s
St
He
St
Ble
St
St
he
11
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Stat i o
St
22
13
ol m e R d
24
19
Cr
4
an
di
20 sh St
St
St
14
t he y
So u
Rd
17
Sq
Par
k
nd h
Fitz
Park
Greta
tC
t
ke
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rw
Vic
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ia
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Wo
ai n
St
26
Bru
tl e
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Sta
n
ai
ge
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5
M
ow
Acorn St
s Rd
Head
dale Rd
Borrow
16
A mb
l e s id e
Rd
To Castlerigg Hall Camping

Park (1.5mi); Ambleside (17mi);
Windermere (21mi)
Crow
Park
Lak
e R
d
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

DISTRICT
726 T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T K e s w i c k
To Nichol End
Marine (1mi)
Derwent
Water
Hope
Park
6
To Borrowdale
(5mi)
INFORMATION
23 Keswick Laundrette...........1 A2
Post Office.........................2 B2
Tourist Office.....................3 B2
U-Compute.....................(see 2)
Sights
The heart of Keswick is the old Market Pl, in
the shadow of the towns former prison and
meeting rooms at the Moot Hall (now occupied
by the tourist office).
The River Greta runs parallel to Main
St, overlooked by the green expanse of Fitz
Park. Nearby is the Keswick Museum & Art
Gallery (%017687-73263; Station Rd; admission free;
h10am-4pm Tue-Sat Feb-Oct), which has hardly
changed since its opening in 1898. Dusty cases
fill the halls: exhibits on display include a
Napoleonic teacup, a centuries-old stuffed
cat and a set of musical stones once played for
Queen Victoria.
Back across the river, the equally odd Cars
of the Stars Motor Museum (%017687-73757; www
th
nri
Pe
Rd
To
Castlerigg
Stone Circle
(1.5mi)
SLEEPING
Cumbria House.................8
Ellergill...............................9
Hazeldene Hotel..............10
Heatherlea.......................11
Howe Keld.......................12
Keswick Camping &
Caravanning Club Site..13
Keswick YHA...................14
Oakthwaite House..........15
Tarn Hows.......................16
EATING
Bryson's Tea Room..........17
Cafe-Bar 26.....................18
Dog & Gun......................19
Lakeland Pedlar
Wholefood Cafe.......... 20
Mayson's Restaurant.......21
Sweeney's Bar Restaurant
& Rooms.....................22
C3
B2
B3
C2
B3
A3
C2
C2
C3
B2
B3
B3
B2
B3
B3
ENTERTAINMENT
Theatre by the Lake.........23 B4
SHOPPING
Cotswold Outdoor...........24 B2
George Fisher..................25 B3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Cars of the Stars Motor
Museum........................4
Keswick Museum & Art
Gallery...........................5
Lake Cruises......................6
Pencil Museum..................7
B2
C2
A4
A1
TRANSPORT
Bus & Coach Station........26 A2
Keswick Mountain Bikes...27 A1
Keswick Mountain Bikes
(Workshop & Bike
Hire)............................28 B2
.carsofthestars.com; Standish St; adult/child 5/3; h10am5pm) houses a fleet of celebrity vehicles:
Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, Mr Beans Mini,

a Batmobile, KITT from Knightrider, the ATeam van and the Delorean from Back to the
Future, as well as lots of Bond cars.
At the southern end of Main St is the old
Cumberland Pencil Factory, now the Pencil
Museum (%017687-73626; www.pencilmuseum.co.uk;
Southy Works; adult/child 3/1.50; h 9.30am-5pm).
Keswick was once a centre for graphite
mining; the museums exhibits include a
reconstruction of the old Borrowdale slate
mine and the worlds longest pencil (measuring 8m end to end). The factory still produces luxury colouring pencils under the
Derwent brand.
A mile east of Keswick stands Castlerigg Stone

Circle, a group of 48 stones between 3000 and
4000 years old, set on a hilltop surrounded
by a brooding amphitheatre of mountains.
The purpose of the circle is uncertain (current
opinion is divided between a Bronze Age meeting place and a celestial timepiece), but one
things for certain those prehistoric builders
knew a good site when they saw one.
Activities
Keswick has plenty of outdoor shops. Theres
a huge branch of Cotswolds Outdoor (%01768781030; 16 Main St), but the traditionalists choice is
George Fisher (%017687-72178; 2 Borrowdale Rd).
BOAT TRIPS
Lake Rd leads west past Crow Park to

the lovely lake of Derwent Water, where
you can catch a cruise with Keswick Launch
Company (%017687-72263; www.keswick-launch.co.uk).
Boats call at seven landing stages: Ashness
Gate, Lodore Falls, High Brandlehow, Low
Brandlehow, Hawse End, Nichol End and
back to Keswick. Boats leave every hour
(adult/child 8.50/4.25, 50 minutes); single
fares to each jetty are also available. There
are at least six daily boats from mid-March
to mid-November, with extra sailings in summer, plus a twilight cruise at 7.30pm (adult/
child 9/4.50, one hour, July and August).
Only two boats run from mid-November
to mid-March.
Nichol End Marine (% 017687-73082; Nichol
End; h9am-5pm) hires out kayaks, rowboats
and motorboats.
WALKING
Keswick has enough hikes to fill a lifetime of

tramping. The most popular walk is the ascent of Lattrigg Fell, along an old railway path
thats now part of the C2C cycle trail. Other
possible routes climb Walla Crag (379m),
Skiddaw (931m) and Blencathra (868m), or
you can catch the boat to Hawse End for the
supremely scenic hike up Catbells (451m).
Festivals & Events

Keswick needs no excuse for a shindig.
Keswick Mountain Festival (www.keswickmountain
festival.co.uk) May
Keswick Beer Festival (www.keswickbeerfestival

.co.uk) June
Keswick Agricultural Show (www.keswickshow.co.uk)

August Bank Holiday; held every year since 1860.
T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T K e s w i c k 727
Sleeping
BUDGET
Keswick YHA ( % 0845 371 9746; www.yha.org

.uk; Station Rd; dm 23; i) Fresh from a refit,
this former woollen mill is now one of
Lakelands top YHAs. Some of the dorms,
doubles and triples have balconies over the
river and Fitz Park, and the hostel has all
the facilities a discerning backpacker could
wish for.
Tent-pitchers can try Castlerigg Hall Camping
Park (%017687-74499; www.castlerigg.co.uk; Rakefoot
Lane, off A591; sites 14.50-16.50) and Keswick Camping
& Caravanning Club Site (%017687-72392; Crow Park
Rd; adult 6.60-8.60, child 2.25-2.35, tent 2.90; hFebNov), down beside the lake.
MIDRANGE
oHowe Keld (%017687-72417; www.howekeld

.co.uk; 5-7 The Heads; s 45, d 80-90) On the edge of
Hope Park, this old workhorse has had a

glamorous makeover and now boasts some
of Keswicks most impressive rooms. Gone
are the chintzy wallpapers; in come luxury
pocket-sprung beds, Egyptian cotton sheets
and goose-down duvets, plus designer wall
hangings and handmade furniture courtesy
of a local joiner. Bathrooms sparkle, the clutters minimal, the key-fobs are made of local
slate, and the brekkies up for a national
award. Seriously good.
Cumbria House (%017687-73171; www.cumbria
house.co.uk; 1 Derwent Water Pl; r 52-64) Charming
Georgian surroundings and an admirable
eco-policy (fair-trade coffee, local produce,
and a 5% discount for car-free guests) make
this another smart option. Families can rent
the top three rooms as a single suite, with
views all the way to Blencathra.
Heatherlea (% 017687-72430; www.heatherlea
-keswick.co.uk; 26 Blencathra St; d 54) One of the
best choices in the B&B-heavy area around
Blencathra St. Tasteful decor (pine beds,
crimson-striped cushions, beige throws)
distinguishes the rooms; its worth bumping up to superior for the sparkling shower
and gargantuan flat-screen TV.
Ellergill (%017687-73347; www.ellergill.co.uk; 22
Stanger St; d 56-64) Velour bedspreads, plumpedup cushions and either regal purples or fiery
reds give this B&B an opulent edge, marrying well with the houses Victorian features (including tiled hearths and a lovely
hallway floor).
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

DISTRICT
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

DISTRICT
728 T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T B o r r o w d a l e & B u t t e r m e re
Oakthwaite House (% 017687-72398; www.oak

thwaite-keswick.co.uk; 35 Helvellyn St; d 58-68) Just
four rooms at this upper-crust guesthouse,
but all scream achingly good taste. Digital
TVs, power showers, white linen and cool
shades throughout, with a cosy dormer
room for that attic hideaway feel, or two
swanky king-size rooms if youre a sucker
for fell views.
Also recommended:
Tarn Hows (%017687-73217; www.tarnhows.co.uk;
3-5 Eskin St; s 33, d 58-70) Cast-iron bedsteads and
fancy quilts in a traditional Eskin St guesthouse.
Hazeldene Hotel (%017687-72106; www.hazeldene
-hotel.co.uk; The Heads; d 75-95) Pick of the Victorian
villas opposite Hope Park, with cheery doubles and a
spacious suite with stone fireplace. Ask for park views.
TOP END
Lyzzick Hall Hotel (%017687-72277; www.lyzzickhall

.co.uk; Underskiddaw; r 120-144; ps ) Lyzzick
(meaning little oak) is pricey, but youre really paying for the setting, wedged on lower
Skiddaw 3 miles from Keswick, with jawdropping views to the Eden Valley. Rooms
are simple, unfussy and just a smidge oldfashioned (the Garden and Derwent suites
are the most spacious); the panoramic patio
and the sexy indoor pool are tailor-made
for basking.
Eating
CAFES
Brysons Tea Room (% 017687-72257; 42 Main St;

cakes 2-5) A historic Lakeland bakery turning out fruit cakes, Battenburgs, plum
breads and florentines. Bag em up and take
em home, or stop for afternoon tea at the
upstairs caff.
Lakeland Pedlar Wholefood Cafe (%01768774492; www.lakelandpedlar.co.uk; Hendersons Yard; mains
3-10; h9am-5pm) Bikers and vegies are both
well catered for at this homely cafe, noted

for doorstep sandwiches, homemade soups,
vegie chillis and ultracrumbly cakes. If you
need to work off the calories, bikes are
hired upstairs.
Cafe-Bar 26 (%017687-80863; 26 Lake Rd; mains
3.25-7.50) Big-city style in little-town Keswick.
Bag a streetside table for authentic cappuccinos, wines and beers from across the globe,
or bistro burgers, bruschetta and Cajun
chicken tortillas.
RESTAURANTS
Maysons Restaurant (%01768 774104; 33 Lake Rd;

mains 6-10; hlunch & dinner) If youre looking for
a quick sit-down meal, this relaxed little buffet
diner takes some beating. Choose your meal
from the woks lined up on the bar (anything
from Cajun chicken to chow mein), pick a
drink and a table, and your meal will be dished
up in double time. Potted plants and posters
on the walls keep things cosy.
Sweeneys Bar Restaurant & Rooms (%017687772990; 18-20 Lake Rd; mains 7-12) Count on decent
Brit cooking in comfortable surrounds at
Sweeneys. Its half chic wine bar, half restaurant-with-rooms: leather sofas and polished tables spread over two floors, with a beer
garden for soaking up the rays.
Dog & Gun (%017687-73463; 2 Lake Rd; mains around
8) Russet-faced farmers rub shoulders with
trail-weary hikers at Keswicks top pub, a
wonderful place dotted with hunting prints,
faded carpets and well-worn wood. The
grubs honest and uncomplicated mainly
goulash, stews, steaks and pies and there are
Cumbrian ales to wash everything down.
Entertainment
Theatre by the Lake (%017687-74411; www.theatreby
thelake.com; Lakeside) Drama both new and classic
is performed here, on the shores of Derwent
Water.

The Lakeslink bus (555/556) runs hourly to
Ambleside (40 minutes), Windermere (50
minutes) and Kendal (1 hours), or the hourly
X4/X5 travels from Penrith to Workington
via Keswick (eight on Sunday). For buses to
Borrowdale, see p730.
Getting Around
Hire full-suspension bikes, hardtails and hybrids at Keswick Mountain Bikes (%017687-75202;
1 Daleston Ct) for 15 to 20 per day. They have
a second branch on Otley Rd.
BORROWDALE & BUTTERMERE

Views dont get any more breathtaking than
the one from the B5289 into Borrowdale.
Historically, the valley was an important centre for two crucial local industries farming
and slate-mining but these days Borrowdale
is walkers country, with countless paths
crossing the surrounding fells, including
landmark routes up to the summits of Great
T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T B o r r o w d a l e & B u t t e r m e re 729
THE ROOF OF ENGLAND

In Scotland its Ben Nevis (1344m), in Wales its Snowdon (1085m), and in England its Scafll
Pike (978m): collectively the three highest peaks of the British mainland. While they might not
be on quite the same scale as the French Alps or the Canadian Rockies, many a hiker has set
out to conquer this sky-topping trio, the ultimate goal for British peak-baggers (especially for
hardy souls attempting the Three Peaks Challenge, in which all three mountains are conquered
in 24 hours).
The classic ascent up Scafll Pike is from Wasdale Head (p723), but the more scenic route starts
near Seathwaite Farm. The trail travels past Styhead Tarn before cutting along the Corridor Route
towards the summit, descending via the neighbouring peaks of Broad Crag, Ill Crag and Great
End, or the easier route past Esk Hause. Its a challenging 8-mile, six-hour round trip, and not for
inexperienced hikers; dont even think about tackling it without proper supplies (rucksack, OS
map, compass, food and water, and decent hiking boots) and a favourable weather forecast.
Gable and Scafll Pike, and an idyllic panorama of tree-clad fells, patchwork pastures
and rickety barns.
Borrowdale
The B5289 tracks Derwent Water into the
heart of Borrowdale Valley, overlooked by the
impressive peaks of Scafll and Scafll Pike.
Past the small village of Grange-in-Borrowdale,
the valley winds into the jagged ravine of the
Jaws of Borrowdale, a well-known hiking spot
with wonderful views, notably from the summit of Castle Crag (290m).
From here, the road curls into the stout
hamlet of Rosthwaithe, which marks the starting point for the annual Borrowdale Fell Race.
Held on the first Saturday in August, this
muscle-shredding 17-mile slog makes the
Iron Man Challenge look like childs play;
you can see a list of previous winners in the
bar at the Scafll Hotel.
SLEEPING & EATING
Borrowdale YHA (%0845 371 9624; www.yha.org.uk;

Longthwaite; dm 15.50; hFeb-Dec) Purpose-built
chalet-style hostel further up the valley, specialising in walking and activity trips. The
facilities are great, but its often booked out
throughout the summer.
Derwentwater YHA (%0845 371 9314; www.yha.org
.uk; Barrow House; dm 16; hFeb-Nov, weekends Nov-Jan;
pi) Originally built for the 19th-century
notable Joseph Pocklington, this lakeside

mansion 2 miles south of Keswick boasts
high-ceilinged dorms, a billiard room, playgrounds and a man-made waterfall that runs
the hostels hydrogenerator.
Yew Tree FarmR018 (%017687-77675; http://www.borrow
daleherdwick.co.uk; Rosthwaite; d from 60; p) Not to
be confused with the other Yew Tree Farm

(p720), this fine old farmhouse is a sanctuary of chintz. Floral motifs run riot in the
three rooms, all snuggled under low ceilings;
bathrooms are titchy, and there are no TVs,
so youll have to make do with the views.
For brekkie, theres Cumbrian bacon and
Herdwick bangers, and youll find homebaked cakes across the road at the Flock
Inn tearoom.
Scafll Hotel (%017687-77208; www.scafell.co.uk;
Rosthwaite; d 124-175; p) Rosthwaites former
coaching inn makes for a cosy stay. Period
furniture and musty rugs conjure up an
antique air (the newer annexe is more contemporary). En suite bathrooms and country
views are (nearly) universal, and the fire-lit
Riverside Bar makes the ideal place to sink
a brew.
Borrowdale Gates Hotel (%017687-77204; www
.borrowdale-gates.com; Grange; d 150-210; p) Theres
no arguing with the spacious rooms, gourmet restaurant (mains 16 to 22) or sweeping 0.8-hecatre grounds at this country
retreat, but if you cant stand country clutter and Laura Ashley furnishings, youll be
better off elsewhere.
Hazel Bank (%017687-77248; www.hazelbankhotel
.co.uk; Rosthwaite; r 170-190; p) Oozing English
luxury from every corniced corner, this
Lakeland mansion is another fancy getaway,
reached via its own humpbacked bridge and
ensconced in private gardens, with upmarket
boudoirs stuffed with swags, drapes, ruffled
curtains and half-tester beds.
Seatoller
The last stop before Honister, Seatoller was
originally a settlement for workers employed
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

DISTRICT
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

DISTRICT
730 T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T U l l s w a t e r & A r o u n d
in the local slate quarries, and still feels one

step removed from the outside world.
Rooms at the family-run Langstrath Inn
(%017687-77239; www.thelangstrath.com; Stonethwaite;
d 75-90, tr 75-79; piwi-fi) have been stripped
to the essentials. Forget net curtains and geranium-print wallpaper, here its crisp white
sheets and neutral tones set off by slate grey
blankets, crimson cushions or chrome fixtures. The bar is more olde-worlde, but the
food is reassuringly modern Herdwick lamb
on olive oil mash, or Cumberland tattie pot
with local steak (mains 10.75 to 15.50).
A charmingly Potteresque hidey-hole beneath Honister Pass, the 17th-century Seatoller
House (%017687-77218; www.seatollerhouse.co.uk; s/d
55/110; p) brims with period features, and the
rooms have their own decorative tics. Groundfloor Badger has a massive hearth and garden
views, while Osprey is jammed into the rafters
with a Velux skylight. Rates include a fourcourse dinner and hearty breakfast.
Just before the upward climb to Honister,
take a break at the Yew Tree (%017687-77634;
mains 8-18; hlunch Tue-Sun) and fortify yourself
with a ploughmans lunch or a gravy-filled pie.
Pitch up after dark and youll find rather more
sophisticated fare ostrich steak, perhaps?
Honister Pass
This bleak, wind-battered mountain pass into
Buttermere was once the most productive
quarrying area in the Lake District, and still
produces much of the regions grey-green
Westmorland slate.
Claustrophobes should steer well clear
of the Honister Slate Mine (%017687-77230; www
.honister-slate-mine.co.uk; adult/child 9.75/4.75; htours
10.30am, 12.30pm & 3.30pm Mar-Oct), where tours ven-
ture deep into the bowels of the old Edge and

Kimberley mines (a tour into the Cathedral
mine runs on Friday by request, but youll
need eight people).
Honisters latest attraction is the UKs
first Via Ferrata (Iron Way; adult/under 16yr/16-18yr
19.50/9.50/15). Modelled on the century-old
routes across the Italian Dolomites, this vertiginous clamber follows the cliff trail once
used by the Honister slate miners, using a
system of fixed ropes and iron ladders. Its
exhilarating and great fun, but unsurprisingly
youll need a head for heights.
Black Sail YHA (%07711-108450; www.yha.org.uk;
Ennerdale, Cleator; dm 14; hEaster-Oct) This gloriously isolated shepherds bothy is the place to
lonelyplanet.com
escape the madding crowd. Its only accessible

on foot 2.5 miles west of Honister Pass, and
the facilities are scarily spartan: the hostels
solar-powered, theres no electricity in the
kitchen, and only a very basic shower-loo
but the mountain setting is unforgettable.
Bring a torch...
Honister Hause YHA (%0845 371 9522; www.yha
.org.uk; Seatoller; dm from 14; hEaster-Oct, weekends
Nov) Next to Honister, these former quarry-
workers lodgings have been turned into

another bare-bones walkers hostel, with functional cooking facilities and a lounge that doubles as a drying room (expect stinky socks).
Buttermere
From the high point of Honister, the road
drops sharply into the deep bowl of Buttermere, skirting the lakeshore to Buttermere
village, 4 miles from Honister and 9 miles
from Keswick. From here, the B5289 cuts
past Crummock Water (once joined with its
neighbour) before exiting the valleys northern edge.
Buttermere marks the start of Alfred
Wainwrights all-time favourite circuit: up
Red Pike (755m), and along High Stile, High
Crag and Haystacks (597m). In fact, the great
man liked it so much he decided to stay here
for good: after his death in 1991, his ashes
were scattered across the top of Haystacks as
requested in his will.
Buttermere has limited accommodation.
Walkers bunk down at the Buttermere YHA
(%0845 371 9508; www.yha.org.uk; dm 17.50), a slatestone house above Buttermere Lake, while
those looking for more luxury try the upmarket Bridge Hotel (%017687-70252; www.bridge-hotel
.com; r incl dinner 148-210; p) or the historic Fish
Hotel (see opposite).

Bus 79 (the Borrowdale Rambler) runs hourly
(eight times on Sunday) between Keswick
and Seatoller, while the 77/77A (Honister
Rambler) makes the round trip from Keswick
to Buttermere via Borrowdale and Honister
Pass four times daily March to November. For
day tickets, see p704.
ULLSWATER & AROUND

%017684
Second only to Windermere in terms of stature, stately Ullswater, in the east of the Lake
District, stretches for 7.5 miles between Pooley
T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T U l l s w a t e r & A r o u n d 731
THE MAID OF BUTTERMERE

The Fish Hotel (%017687-70253; www.fish-hotel.co.uk; 2-night minimum stay d 190; p) in Buttermere is
famous as the home of the legendary beauty Mary Robinson, the so-called Maid of Buttermere.
A visiting hiker named Joseph Palmer spied this 15-year-old glamour puss during a stopover in
1792; he later wrote about her in his book A Fortnights Ramble in the Lake District, and soon
visitors were trekking from across the Lakes to see if Marys beauty lived up to its reputation.
Wordsworth was suitably impressed, devoting several lines to her in The Prelude, although the
rakish Coleridge was apparently rather underwhelmed.
Mary later became doubly notorious for being duped by the unscrupulous conman John
Hatfield, who passed himself off as an army colonel and MP in order to win her hand; within a
year Hatfield had been exposed as a bankrupt and a bigamist, arrested by the Bow Street Runners
in Swansea, and sentenced to death by hanging. Despite her terribly public embarrassment,
Mary soldiered on and married again, this time to a more reliable type from Caldbeck; together
they ran the inn until Marys death in 1837. The local author Melvyn Bragg relates the tale in
his novel The Maid Of Buttermere.
Bridge, and Glenridding and Patterdale in

the south. Carved out by a long-extinct glacier, the deep valley in which the lake sits is
flanked by an impressive string of fells, most
notably the razor ridge of Helvellyn (p732),
Cumbrias third-highest mountain. Historic
steamers have sputtered around the lake since
1859, and there are lovely woods and gardens
to explore nearby if the summer crowds are
too much.
Pooley Bridge
elevation 301m
Sitting along a pebble-strewn shore at the

northern corner of Ullswater, the pocket-sized
village of Pooley Bridge makes a useful base,
with a couple of country pubs and a village
shop where you can stock up on supplies.
Ullswater Steamers (% 017684-82229; www
.ullswater-steamers.co.uk) set out from the Pooley
Bridge jetty for the southern reaches of the
lake, stopping at Howtown and Glenridding
before looping back to Pooley Bridge. The
companys two oldest vessels have worked
on Ullswater for over a century: Lady of
the Lake was launched in 1887, followed by
Raven in 1889. These two grand old girls
have been joined by a couple of younger
fillies: the Lady Dorothy (transported from
Guernsey in 2001) and the Totnes Castle
(launched in 2007, and rechristened the
Lady Wakefield).
Up to 12 daily ferries run in summer,
dropping to three in winter. Current returns
from Pooley Bridge are 4.80 to Howtown,
or 11.30 to Glenridding and back. Children
travel half price.
Campers are spoilt for choice. Hillcroft Park

(%017684-486363; Roe Head Lane; sites 11-20) is closest
to the village, while Park Foot (%86309; www.park
footullswater.co.uk; Howtown Rd; sites incl 2 adults, tent & car
12-24) has the best facilities (including tennis
courts, bike hire and pony trekking).

Break out the lederhosen, the weird Pooley
Bridge Inn (%017684-86215; www.pooleybridgeinn
.co.uk; d 75-100; p) looks like its upped sticks
from the Alsatian Alps and set up shop in
Pooley Bridge. Hanging baskets, cartwheels
and wooden balconies decorate the exterior,
and inside youll find dinky rooms heavy on
the florals and oak beams. The stable restaurant is worth a look for baked trout and
solid sausage-and-mash.
Youll need deep pockets to stay at Sharrow
Bay Country House Hotel (%017684-86301; www
.sharrowbay.co.uk; d 185-400; piwi-fi), but if you
can afford it youll be treated to the last word
in luxury: 5 hectares of woods and lakeside
gardens; king-sized rooms crammed with
antiques, chaise-longues, canopied beds and
gilded mirrors; and a Michelin-rated restaurant worthy of a French chateau.
For something less lavish, theres always
the homely Sun Inn (%486205; mains 5-12)
with the usual range of ales and a beautiful
beer garden.
Glenridding & Patterdale

elevation 253m
Seven miles south as the crow files from

Pooley Bridge are the neighbouring villages
of Patterdale and Glenridding, the favoured
starting point for the challenging ascent of
Helvellyn (p732). If your legs wont stretch
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THE HIKE TO HELVELLYN

Alongside Scafll Pike, the hike up Helvellyn (950m) is the most famous (and challenging) Lake
District trail. Wainwright adored it, and Helvellyn exercised a peculiarly powerful hold over
William Wordsworth: the mountain crops up frequently in his work, and he continued to climb
the mountain well into his seventies. One of the most famous portraits of the poet, completed
by the painter Benjamin Haydon in 1842, depicts Wordsworth deep in thought with Helvellyn
as a broodingly Romantic backdrop.
The classic route up Helvellyn is the gravity-defying ridge scramble along Striding Edge, a
challenging route for even experienced walkers, with dizzying drops to either side and a fair
amount of hand-and-knee scrambling (dont consider it if youre even slightly wary of heights).
Beyond the summit and its glorious 360-degree views, the usual descent is via Swirral Edge
and Red Tarn. Count on at least 7 miles and six hours on the mountain, and, as usual, come
suitably prepared unless you fancy coming down in the rescue chopper.
to the main event, you can tackle lower-level

trails nearby: the easy amble to Lantys Tarn
starts just south of Glenridding, while the
popular walks up to High Force and Aira Force
start in the wooded surroundings of Gowbarrow
Park, 3 miles north.
The Ullswater Information Centre (%01768482414; [email protected]; Beckside car park;
h9am-5.30pm Apr-Oct) details local hikes, hotels
and events.
The high-altitude Helvellyn YHA (%0845 371
9742; www.yha.org.uk; Greenside; dm 12; hEaster-Oct,
phone ahead at other times) is perched 274m above
Glenridding along a mountain track, and is

mainly used by Helvellyn hikers; guided walks
can be arranged through the hostel staff.
Cream walls and pinewood beds grace the
smallish rooms at Mosscrag (%017684-82500;
www.mosscrag.co.uk; Glenridding; s 42.50-47.50, d 64-80;
p) B&B, but youll have to pay extra for an
en suite.
Apart from the Glenridding Hotel (now
owned by Best Western), Inn on the Lake
(%017684-82444; www.innonthelakeullswater.co.uk; d
128-184; pi) is the only passable hotel in
the village. It feels corporate, but as long as

you can look past the generic decor, youll
be treated to top-notch facilities: Jacuzzi
baths, tennis courts, sauna and gym, plus
a choice of mountain or lake views from
the rooms.
Travellers Rest (%017684-82298; mains 5.50-15)
is a typically friendly Cumbrian pub with
fire-lit lounges, a lovely fell-view patio and a
hearty bar menu. Hungry hikers come from
miles around for the Travellers Mixed Grill
(14.70) of rump steak, lamb chop, gammon,
black pudding and Cumberland sausage, all
crowned with a fried egg.

Bus 108 runs from Penrith to Patterdale via
Pooley Bridge and Glenridding (six Monday
to Friday, five on Saturday, four on Sunday).
The 517 (Kirkstone Rambler; three daily July
and August, otherwise weekends only) travels over the Kirkstone Pass from Bowness
and Troutbeck, stopping at Glenridding
and Patterdale.
The Ullswater Bus-and-Boat ticket (13.60)
combines a days travel on the 108 with a
return tip on an Ullswater Steamer.
CUMBRIAN COAST
While the central lakes and fells pull in a
never-ending stream of visitors, surprisingly few ever make the trek west to explore
Cumbrias coastline. And thats a shame:
while it might not compare to the wild
grandeur of Northumberland or the rugged
splendour of Scotlands shores, Cumbrias
coast is well worth exploring, with a cluster
of sandy bays and a gaggle of seaside towns
including the old port of Whitehaven, the
Edwardian resort of Grange-over-Sands and
the Roman harbour at Ravenglass, starting
point for the Laal Ratty steam railway. Less
attractive is the nuclear plant of Sellafield,
still stirring up controversy some 50 years
after its construction.
Getting Around
The Cumbrian Coast railway line loops 120
miles from Lancaster to Carlisle, stopping
at the coastal resorts of Grange, Ulverston,
Ravenglass, Whitehaven and Workington.
C U M B R I A N C OA S T G r a n g e - O v e r - S a n d s 733
THE MORECAMBE BAY CROSSING

Before the coming of the railway, the sandy expanse of Morecambe Bay provided the quickest
route into the Lake District from the south of England. The traditional crossing is made from
Arnside on the eastern side of the bay over to Kent Bank in the west, but its always been a risky
journey. Morecambe Bay is notorious for its fast-rising tide and treacherous sands; even experienced locals have been known to lose carts, horses and tractors, and there have been numerous
strandings, most recently in 2004, when 18 Chinese cockle pickers were caught by the tide and
drowned (an incident that inspired Nick Broomfields 2006 film Ghosts).
Its possible to walk across the flats at low tide, but only in the company of the official Queens
Guide, a role established in 1536. Cedric Robinson, a local fisherman, is the 25th official Queens
Guide, and leads walks across the sands throughout the year. Youll need to register a fortnight
in advance; ask at the Grange tourist office for details of the next crossing. The 8-mile crossing
takes around 3 hours. You get back to your start point by train on the Cumbria Coast Line.
Find out more about this unique waterway at www.morecambebay.org.uk.
GRANGE-OVER-SANDS
pop 4098
Teashops, manicured gardens and Victorian

villas line the winding streets of Grange,
which established itself as a seaside getaway
for Edwardian day-trippers following the
19th-century arrival of the railway. The towns
heyday has long since faded, but as long as
you dont mind your sea air stiff and bracing, Grange makes a fine spot to sample the
peculiar charms of the English seaside, stroll
the elegant seafront and drink in the sweeping
views over Morecambe Bay.
Information
Library (%015395-32749; Grange Fell Rd; h9am5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-12.30pm Sat)
Post office (%015395-34713; Main St; h9am-5pm

Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat)
tels, plus a decent fry-up for breakfast, then

youll be comfy enough. On-site parking is
a bonus.
Graythwaite Manor (% 015395-32001; www
.graythwaitemanor.co.uk; Ferhill Rd; s/d 126/139; p) A
chimney-topped pile brimming with polished
wood panels, leather armchairs, ticking grandfather clocks and antiquey knick-knacks.
Rooms are stately and stuffy: expect huge
beds topped with flowery quilts, and latticed
windows overlooking trimmed lawns.
Hazelmere Cafe (%015395-32972; 1-2 Yewbarrow
Tce; sandwiches 4-6, mains 6-10; h 10am-5pm
summer, to 4.30pm winter) This delightful cafe
doubles as the towns top bakery, and offers Cumbrian delicacies such as potted
Morecambe Bay shrimps, rabbit pie and
crumbly cheese toasties.
Tourist office (%015395-34026; grangetic@south
lakeland.gov.uk; Victoria Hall, Main St; h10am-5pm

Easter-Oct)
Both the train station and bus stop are downhill from the tourist office.
Bus X35 from Kendal stops at Grange (30
minutes, hourly) on its way to Ulverston
(one hour).
Grange is on the Cumbrian Coast Line,
with frequent connections to Lancaster (30
minutes, hourly) and Carlisle (24.50, 1
hours, hourly).
Sleeping & Eating

Lymehurst Hotel (%015395-33076; www.lymehurst
.co.uk; Kents Bank Rd; s 35-38, d 76-90; p) Splendid
guesthouse harking back to Granges good
old days. The rooms are mostly modern,
with light colours, contemporary furniture
and white bed linen, although the top-of-the
range Premier room is more Victorian in style.
Breakfast is a wonder, prepared by renowned
chef Kevin Wyper, who also oversees things
at the Lymestone Restaurant.
Thornfield House (%015395-32512; www.grange
guesthouse.co.uk; Kents Bank Rd; d 58-70; p) Nothing
ground-breaking, but if youre happy with
rooms in lemon yellows and peachy pas-
AROUND GRANGE
Cartmel
pop 1798
Tucked away in the countryside above

Grange, tiny Cartmel is known for three
things: its 12th-century priory, its miniature
racecourse and its world-famous sticky toffee pudding, on sale at the Cartmel Village
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LIVING THE GOOD LIFE

Howbarrow Organic Farm (%015395-36330;
www.howbarroworganic.co.uk; d 57.50; hfarm
shop 10am-5pm Wed-Sat; p) If youve ever
fantasised about growing your own, youll
want to pick up tips at this wonderful 100%
organic farm outside Cartmel. The farm shop
is stocked with organic goodies straight
from the fields; self-caterers can pick up a
Howbarrow vegetable box, or choose from
damson jams, marmalades, fruit and fairtrade choccies. If you fancy staying, there
are two simple but sweet farmhouse rooms
(with a shared bathroom).
Shop (%015395-36201; www.stickytoffeepudding.co.uk;

The Square; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4.30pm Sun).
The heart of the village is the medieval market square, from where a winding lane leads
to Cartmel Priory (%015395-36261; h9am-5.30pm
May-Oct, to 3.30pm Nov-Apr), one of the few priories
to escape demolition during the dissolution.
Light pours in through the 15th-century east
window, illuminating the tombs set into the
flagstoned floor; note the memento mori of
skulls and hourglasses, intended to remind the
pious of their own inescapable mortality.
SLEEPING & EATING
Priors Yeat (%015395-35178; [email protected];

Aynsome Rd; s/d 32/64; p) Cartmels B&Bs are on
the flouncy side, but the three rooms at this
redbrick Edwardian house are smarter than
most. Ones sky blue with twin beds, the other
two are doubles with flower prints and pine.
Vegie options are available for breakfast, and
the owners will make packed lunches if you
ask the day before.
Cavendish Arms (%015395-36240; www.thecavendish
arms.co.uk; mains 10-15) The pick of Cartmels
pubs, a venerable coaching inn plonked on
the village square. The 10 rooms (doubles
60) are plainly furnished, but full of atmosphere, and the bar menu is crammed with
lip-smacking mains such as venison steak and
roast guinea fowl.
LEnclume (%015395-36362; www.lenclume.co.uk;
Cavendish St; lunch 2/3 courses 18/25, dinner menu 65;
hlunch Thu-Sun, dinner Tue-Sun) Gird your gastro-
nomic loins this Michelin-starred wonder

is an assault on your senses. The foodie critics
have gone ga-ga for its boundary-pushing
cooking, dreamt up by one of the nations
most adventurous chefs, Simon Rogan, but

you might need an interpreter to make sense
of the menu (unless youre already au fait
with egg drop hot and sour soup or eel-veal
ragout). Rooms (98 to 188) are surprisingly
understated, mostly in cool whites and beiges,
mixed up with the odd Toile de Jouy fabric or
wet-room bathroom.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Bus 530/532 travels from Cartmel to Grange

(40 minutes) 10 to 12 times from Monday
to Saturday.
Holker Hall & Lakeland Motor Museum

Arguably the finest stately home in Cumbria,
Holker Hall (%015395-58328; www.holker-hall.co.uk; admission house & grounds 8.80, grounds only 5.70; hhouse
10.30am-4.30pm Sun-Fri, grounds 10am-6pm Mar-Oct) has
been the family seat of the Cavendish family

for nigh on 400 years. Though parts of Holker
Hall date from the 16th century, the house was
almost entirely rebuilt following a devastating fire in 1871. Its a typically ostentatious
Victorian affair, covered with mullioned windows, gables and copper-topped turrets, and
filled with historic portraits, wood-panelled
rooms and an elaborate central staircase.
But Holkers real attraction is its wonderful
grounds, stretching for 10 hectares and encompassing a rose garden, woodland, ornamental fountains and a 72ft-high lime tree.
The Lakeland Motor Museum (%015395-58509;
adult/6-15yr 7/4.50; h10.30am-4.45pm), inside the
old stables, contains a collection of classic
cars (from Jaguars to Bentleys) and a replica
of Donald Campbells boat, Bluebird. Theres
also a fantastic food hall (%015395-59084) stocking Lakeland produce.
ULVERSTON
pop 11,670
Its not the prettiest town in Cumbria, but at

least Ulverston has an excuse for its workmanlike appearance the town was once an
important industrial centre for leather, copper
and iron ore. Ulverston makes a cheap, quiet
base for exploring the surrounding coastline,
especially for those setting out for the longdistance Cumbria Way (p702), which has its
official starting point in the town.
Information
Library (%01229-894151; Kings Rd; per 30 min 1)
Internet access.
Tourist office (%01229-587120; ulverstontic@south

lakeland.gov.uk; County Sq; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat)
Ulverston Online (www.ulverston.net) Town website.
Sights
Silent film fans will already know Ulverstons
main claim to fame: Stan Laurel, the spindlier
half of Laurel and Hardy, was born here in
1890. The Laurel & Hardy Museum (%01229-582292;
www.laurel-and-hardy.co.uk; 4c Upper Brook St; adult/child
3/2; h10am-4.30pm Feb-Dec) was founded by an
avid Laurel & Hardy collector in 1983, and

now houses floor-to-ceiling memorabilia relating to the bumbling duo, and a little cinema
where you can view some slapstick flicks. At
the time of writing there were plans to relocate
the museum; check the website for info.
The tower on Hoad Hill commemorates
Ulverstons other famous son, the explorer,
author and Secretary to the Admiralty Sir
John Barrow (17641848). Its usually open
on summer weekends.
Ulverstons lively market fills the towns
streets every Thursday, with a smaller market
on Saturday and a local food fair every third
Saturday of the month.
Sleeping
Walkers Hostel (% 01229-585588; www.walkers
hostel.co.uk; Oubas Hill; dm 20) New owners are in
charge, but this friendly townhouse hostel
remains a hikers haven, run on ecofriendly
lines with clean dorms, a good sized kitchen
and corridor bathrooms. The hostels 10
minutes walk from town on the A590 to
Kendal.
St Marys Mount Manor House (%01229-849005;
C U M B R I A N C OA S T A r o u n d U l v e r s t o n 735
known for its upmarket nosh: venison, ostrich and saltmarsh lamb shank.
Eating & Drinking

Hot Mango (%01229-584866; 27 King St; lunch 5-8;
hlunch Tue-Sat) Lively bistro-cafe with zesty
lunchtime mains try a saddleback pork
burger or a Mediterranean sea-bass fillet, accompanied by homemade salsa and
hand-cut chips.
Farmers Arms (%01229-584469; 3 Market Place; mains
6-14) Ulverstons best pub is on the market
square. The trappings are traditional (whitewashed frontage, wood beams, beer-stocked
bar), but the menus bold, encompassing
Greek meze, Morecambe Bay shrimps and
stir-fried Cajun chicken.
World Peace Cafe (%01229-587793; www.world
peacecafe.org; 5 Cavendish St; mains 3-6; h10am-4.30pm
Tue-Sat) If you need to knock your chi into
shape, this holistic cafe (an offshoot of the

Conishead Priory, below) is ideal. Organic
lunches, fair-trade coffee and lunchtime
meditation sessions make it popular with
Ulverstons alternative crowd.

Regular trains from Carlisle (27.50, two
hours) and Lancaster (6, 40 minutes) stop
at Ulverston station, five minutes walk south
of the centre.
The hourly X35 travels from Ulverston via
Haverthwaite, Newby Bridge, Grange and
Kendal from Monday to Saturday (three times
on Sunday).
AROUND ULVERSTON
www.stmarysmount.co.uk; Belmont; s 35, d 45-75; p)
Conishead Priory
Brass beds, half-tester canopies and original

fireplaces distinguish this slate-roofed manor
house on the hill above town.
Lonsdale House Hotel (% 01229-581260; www
Two miles south of Ulverston, Conishead Priory
.lonsdalehousehotel.co.uk; 11 Daltongate; r 85-110; p)
Manjushri Buddhist Centres, and the site of

Europes only Kadampa Temple. There are
weekend tours at 2.15pm and 3.30pm, and
meditation retreats are available if youre bitten by the Buddhist bug.
Georgian townhouse with 20 bright rooms

furnished in checks and rosy drapes. Top
rooms have four-poster beds and Jacuzzis,
and the quietest ones overlook the lovely
back garden, enclosed by a Gothic wall.
Bay Horse Hotel (%01229-583972; www.thebay
horsehotel.co.uk Canal Foot; d 85-120; piwi-fi) Our
top Ulverston tip is this riverside restaurantwith-rooms, beautifully positioned beside the
Levens estuary (follow signs to Canal Foot
from the A590). Theres a choice of garden
or river-view rooms, and the restaurant is
(%01229-584029; www.manjushri.org.uk; admission free;

h2-5pm weekdays, noon-5pm weekends & bank holidays
Easter-Oct, 2-4pm Nov-Easter) is one of the UKs main
Furness Abbey
Eight and a half miles southwest of Ulverston,
the rosy ruins of Furness Abbey (EH; %823420;
admission 3.40; h10am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct, to 4pm
Wed-Sun Nov-Mar) are all that remains of one of
northern Englands most powerful monasteries. Founded in the 12th century, the abbeys
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lands and properties once stretched across

southern Cumbria and the Lakes, but like
many of Englands monasteries, it met an ignominious end in 1537 during the dissolution.
You can still make out the abbeys basic footprint; various arches, windows and the north
and south transept walls are still standing,
alongside the remains of the abbey bell tower.
An informative audio guide is included in the
admission price.
Several buses, including the hourly X35
from Ulverston, stop nearby.
RAVENGLASS & AROUND

Halfway along the coast road toward Whitehaven is Ravenglass, a tiny seaside port established by the Romans in the 4th century (you
can see the remains of a Roman bathhouse
half a mile from the train station). Ravenglass
is also the start of the steam enthusiasts dream
come true, the Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway
(%01229-717171; www.ravenglass-railway.co.uk), built
in 1875 to ferry iron ore from the Eskdale
mines to the coast. Affectionately known as
Laal Ratty, the pocket-sized choo-choos chug
for 7 miles into Eskdale and the Lake District
foothills, terminating at Dalegarth Station,
near Boot (p723). There are up to 17 trips
daily in summer, dropping to two in winter;
single fares are adult/five to 15 years 6/3, or
day tickets cost 10.20/5.10.
Theres an interesting museum exploring the
railways history, and you can find good pub
grub at the sepia-tinted Ratty Arms (%01229717676; mains 8-15), covered with railway memorabilia and black-and-white photos plucked
from the railways heyday.
A mile south of Ravenglass is Muncaster
Castle (%01229-717614; www.muncaster.co.uk; adult/
5-15yr incl owl centre, gardens & maze 7.50/5.50, castle
extra 2.50/1.50; hgardens 10.30am-6pm/dusk, castle
noon-4.30pm Sun-Fri Feb-Nov), built around a 14th-
century pele tower, and home to the Pennington

family for the last seven centuries. Highlights
include the dining room, great hall and an extraordinary octagonal library, but the house
is most renowned for its spooks countless
spectres stalk the castles corridors, including a
malevolent jester known as Tom Fool (you can
arrange for your own overnight ghost sit for
405 to 475). The castles gardens contain an
ornamental maze and an owl centre.
North of Ravenglass, the coast sweeps
past the gloomy chimney stacks of Sellafield,
Britains largest nuclear reprocessing plant, to-
lonelyplanet.com
wards St Bees Head, site of an RSPB bird reserve

and official starting point for Wainwrights
C2C route, which ends 190 miles east at Robin
Hoods Bay (p649).
Ravenglass is on the Cumbrian Coast
Line, with frequent links north and south.
Bus 6 from Whitehaven stops at Ravenglass
and terminates at Muncaster (70 minutes,
five daily). Bus X6 travels the same route on
Sunday (four daily).
WHITEHAVEN
pop 23,795
During the 18th century the pretty port of

Whitehaven was the third largest in England,
with a fortune founded on the lucrative trade
in coal, iron and slaves. These days its a sleepy
pleasure marina, with refurbished Georgian
houses and smart yachts lined up along the
polished-up harbourside. The town is at its
liveliest during the biennial maritime festival,
the next on at the time of writing scheduled
for 2009.
The main tourist office (%01946-598914; tic@
copelandbc.gov.uk; Market Pl; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat AprOct, 10am-4.30pm Nov-Mar) is in Market Hall in the
town centre.
Whitehavens most notorious incident
occurred during the American War of
Independence, when the town was attacked
by the American naval commander John Paul
Jones (actually a Scot, born in Arbigland in
1747). Jones convinced his reluctant crew to
mount a daring night raid on Whitehaven,
hoping to strike a fearsome blow against one
of Britains key ports. Unfortunately, strong
winds and tides, coupled with a shortage of
ammunition, a semi-mutinous crew and the
troublesome distractions of Whitehavens
taverns, meant the raid was a total flop; of
the 200-odd ships stationed in Whitehavens
harbour, Jones sank just a single lowly
coal barge.
You can find out more about Jones bungled raid at the Beacon (%01946-592302; www
.thebeacon-whitehaven.co.uk; West Strand; adult/under 16yr
5/free; h10am-4.30pm Tue-Sun), fresh from a 2.2
million refit, with lots of displays on local

history, smuggling and the sugar, rum and
slave trades.
Rum Story (%01946-592933; www.rumstory.co.uk;
Lowther St; adullt/child 5.45/3.45; h10am-4.30pm) explores Whitehavens rum-running history
using waxwork models. Its fun, if slightly
tacky look out for an 18th-century sugar
N O R T H E R N C U M B R I A C a r l i s l e 737
workshop, a debauched punch tavern and

a weird exhibit showing Nelsons body
being pickled in brandy following the Battle
of Trafalgar.
heaths and solid hilltop towns, cut through

by the Roman barrier of Hadrians Wall.
Sleeping & Eating
Precariously perched on the tempestuous border between England and Scotland, in the
area once ominously dubbed the Debatable
Lands, Carlisle is a city with a notoriously
stormy past. Sacked by the Vikings, pillaged
by the Scots, and plundered by the Border
Reivers, Carlisle has stood in the frontline of
Englands defences for the last 1000 years. The
battlements and keeps of the stout medieval
castle still stand watch, built from the same
rosy red sandstone as the citys cathedral and
terraced houses; but Cumbrias only city is a
more peaceful place these days, with a buzzy
student population that keeps this old city
young at heart.
Glenfield (%01946-691911; www.glenfield-whitehaven

.co.uk; Back Corkickle; s 35, d 55-65; p) In the middle
of Whitehavens conservation area, the six
rooms of this trad-brick B&B ooze Victorian
atmosphere. Our favourites are maritime St
Bees, with power shower and town views, and
Corkickle, with period fireplace, DVD player
and bay window.
Georgian House Hotel (%01946-696611; 9-11
Church St; www.thegeorgianhousehotel.net; s 79, d 89-99;
piwi-fi) Georgian by name, Georgian by
nature, this converted merchants house offers elegant hotel accommodation, decked
out in shipshape fashion with wooden
bedsteads, designer-print wallpapers and
flat-screen TVs.
Moresby Hall (%01946-696317; www.moresbyhall
.co.uk; Moresby; s 80-100, d 100-140; p) For aristocratic atmosphere, head 2 miles north
along theA595 to this stunning manor
house, Grade Ilisted and overflowing with
historic curiosities. A lavish oak staircase
leads to traditionally styled B&B rooms, all
with huge beds, hydromassage showers and
Gilchrist & Soames bath stuffs; De Asby
and Copeland have four-posters and views
across walled grounds.
Zest (%01946-66981; 8 West Strand; mains 8-12
hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Fresh harbourside
brasserie with a nice line in lunchtime
wraps, panini and salads.
For more complicated British cooking,
head to its sister establishment on Low Rd
CARLISLE
pop 69,527
History
(%01946-692848; mains 14-20; hdinner Wed-Sat).
A Celtic camp (or caer) provided an early

military station for the Romans, and Carlisle
became the northwests main administrative
centre following the construction of Hadrians
Wall. After centuries of intermittent conflict
between Picts, Saxons and Viking raiders,
the Normans seized Carlisle from the Scots
in 1092.
The English developed Carlisle as a military stronghold throughout the Middle
Ages, enlarging the walls, citadels and the
great gates, and the city became an important
strategic base for Royalist forces during the
Civil War.
Peace came to the city with the Restoration,
and the city developed as an industrial centre
for cotton and textiles after the arrival of the
railway in the mid 19th century.
Orientation
Whitehaven is on the Cumbrian Coast

Line with hourly trains in each direction.
Bus 6/X6 travels to Ravenglass (one hour,
four daily).
NORTHERN CUMBRIA
Many visitors speed through the northern
and eastern reaches of Cumbria in a headlong dash for the Lake District, but this is
an area thats worth exploring a bleakly
beautiful landscape of isolated farms, barren
From the M6, the main routes into town are

London Rd and Warwick Rd. The train station is south of the city centre, a 10-minute
walk from Town Hall Sq (also known as
Greenmarket) and the tourist office. The bus
station is on Lonsdale St, about 250m east.
Most of the towns B&Bs are dotted along
Victoria Pl and Warwick Rd.
Information
@Cybercafe (%01228-512308; www.atcybercafe.co.uk;
8-10 Devonshire St; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 1-10pm
Sun; per hr 3)
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

DISTRICT
lonelyplanet.com
0
0
CARLISLE
INFORMATION
@Cybercaf...........................1
Ottakar's................................2
Police Station.........................3
Post Office............................4
Tourist Office.........................5
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Carlisle Castle........................6 A2
Carlisle Cathedral...................7 B3
Fratry.................................(see 17)
Guildhall Museum..................8 B3
Prior's Tower.........................9 A3
Tullie House Museum..........10 A2
Tennis
Courts
y
nb
Ag
English
18B Gate Plaza
ot
ch
er
ga
22
te
Lo
nd
St
Cr
ow
n
591922; adult/child 4.50/2.30; h9.30am-5pm Apr-Sep,

10am-4pm Oct-Mar) was founded around a Celtic
St
lio
St
ar
y
St
re
Devon
sh
i
St
The brooding, rust-red Carlisle Castle (%01228-
Pl
es
CARLISLE CASTLE
Sq
Jam
Sights & Activities
Train
Station
ick
Viaduct
21
Rd) Half a mile west of the city centre.

Ottakars (%01228-542300; 66 Scotch St; 9am-5.30pm
Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) Large chain bookshop stocking
new titles and local books.
Police station (%0845 33 00 247; English St; 8ammidnight)
Post office (20-34 Warwick Rd)
Tourist office (%01228-625600; www.historic-carlisle
.org.uk; Greenmarket; per 15min 1; h9.30am-5pm
Mon-Sat, 10.30am-4pm Sun) Offers internet access.
20
23 24
A6
Ce
cil
St
Courts
Portland
Sq
ck
St
Co u r t S
Cumberland Infirmary (%01228-523444; Newtown
15
swi
lis
h
1
3
n
Bru
ng
ck
rwi
Wa
ar
W
16
t W
alls
13
A69
Rd
To Willowbeck
Lodge (2.5mi);
M6 (3mi);
Newcastle (57mi)
11
St
ed
Alfr
Rd
W
es
St
Chiswick
Crosby St
te
St
Bank
25
Lonsdale St
12
ore
Lism
sta
Rd
14
Chatsworth
Sq
Town Hall Sq
(Greenmarket)
TRANSPORT
Bus Station...........................25 C3
Rd
Pl
Vic
tor
ia
Strand
St
ard
How
rC
ste astle
no
St
ter w
Pa Ro
17
7
9
Es
ta
te
East T
ower
St
B2
C4
C4
C4
C4
C4
St
he
r
Pl
F is
Tennis
Warwick
St
r St
Lowther St
To Carlisle YHA
(50m);
Cumberland
V
Infirmary(800m) iadu
ct
19
Tow
e
Scotch St
y
Wa
tle
Cas St
le
k
10
Fin
We
st
C3
C3
A3
C4
Ta
it
A595
EATING
Alexandros..........................15
Le Gall.................................16
Prior's Kitchen Restaurant....17
Teza Indian Canteen............18
Po
rtl
an
d
D3
D3
D3
D3
DRINKING Courts
Brickyard..............................19
Cafe Solo.............................20
Griffin..................................21
Mood 2...............................22
Office..................................23
Unit.....................................24
P et e r St
Dacr
eR
d
SLEEPING
Cornerways.........................11
Derwentlea..........................12
Langleigh Guest House........13
Number Thirty One.............14
St
Ede
Bitts
Park
C3
B3
C4
C4
B3
on
Rd
To M6 (3mi);
Penrith
(18mi)
da
Cricket
Ground
300 m
0.1 miles
Ry
To Number 10 (200m);
Scotland (10mi)
en
Ed dge
Bri
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

DISTRICT
738 N O R T H E R N C U M B R I A C a r l i s l e
and Roman stronghold, with a Norman keep

added in 1092 by William Rufus, and later
enlargements (which included the supposedly
cannon-proof towers) added by Henry VIII.
The castle has witnessed some dramatic events
over the centuries: Mary Queen of Scots was
imprisoned here in 1568, and the castle was
the site of a notorious eight-month siege during the English Civil War, when the Royalist
garrison survived by eating rats, mice and
the castle dogs before finally surrendering in
1645. Look out for the licking stones in the
dungeon, which Jacobite prisoners supposedly
lapped for moisture.
Admission includes entry to the Kings
Own Royal Border Regiment Museum,
which explores the history of Cumbrias
Infantry Regiment. There are guided tours

from April to September.
CARLISLE CATHEDRAL
Carlisles scarlet cathedral (% 01228-548151;

www.carlislecathedral.org.uk; 7 The Abbey; donation 2;
h7.30am-6.15pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun) was founded
as a priory church in 1122. During the
164445 siege by Parliamentarian troops,
two-thirds of the nave was torn down to
repair the city walls. Serious restoration
didnt begin until 1853, but a surprising
amount survives, including the 14th-century
east window and part of the Norman nave.
Other features include the 15th-century misericords, the lovely Brougham Triptych and
some ornate choir carvings.
Surrounding the cathedral are other priory relics, including the 16th-century Fratry
(see Priors Kitchen Restaurant, p740) and
the Priors Tower.
TULLIE HOUSE MUSEUM
Carlisles main museum (%01228-534781; Castle

St; www.tulliehouse.co.uk; adult/under 18yr 5.20/free;
h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun July-Aug, 10am5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun Apr-June & Sep-Oct, 10am-4pm
Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun Nov-Mar) is a treat for his-
tory buffs, with exhibits exploring the foundation of the city, life under Roman rule and
the development of modern Carlisle. The
museum has a strong archaeology collection,
including a Bronze Age spear-mould, Roman
tablets collected from Hadrians Wall, and
artefacts recovered from Viking burial sites
in nearby Ormside and Hesket.
N O R T H E R N C U M B R I A C a r l i s l e 739
Sleeping
BUDGET
Carlisle YHA (%0870 770 5752; www.yha.org.uk; Bridge

Lane; dm 21; hJul-Sep) Lodgings at the old
Theakston brewery now provide student
digs for Carlisle University; rooms are usually available during the summer hols. Its just
west of the centre.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Cornerways (%01228-521733; www.cornerwaysguest

house.co.uk; 107 Warwick Rd; s 30-35, d 55-65; piwifi) In the heart of Carlisles conservation dis-
trict, this cheery corner guesthouse offers

reliable B&B rooms (not all are en suite).
Period touches (including a tiled Victorian
hallway) keep it a cut above Carlisles
bog-standard B&Bs.
Langleigh Guest House (%01228-530440; www
.langleighhouse.co.uk; 6 Howard Pl; s/d 35/70; p )
Gilded mirrors, armchairs and porcelain

knick-knacks cover every inch of this terrific-value guesthouse. All rooms are decorated in well-to-do Edwardian fashion think
brass bedside lamps, marble fireplaces and
watercolour prints.
Derwentlea (%01228-409706; www.derwentlea.co.uk;
14 Howard Pl; s/d 35/70; p) Red leather armchairs
and ticking mantle clocks set the period vibe
at this small, trad-brick B&B. Big, soft beds,
full-length mirrors and dressing tables distinguish the smartest rooms, and theres a
ground-floor room for mobility-restricted
guests. Storage is available for bikes.
Number Thirty One (% 01228-597080; www
.number31.freeservers.com; 31 Howard Pl; s/d from 65/95;
p) Dig out the glad rags Number 31 oozes
This tiny museum (%01228-532781; Greenmarket;

admission free; h noon-4.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct) is
housed in a wonky 15th-century townhouse built for Carlisles trade guilds.
Among the modest exhibits are a ceremonial mace, the citys stocks and a section
of exposed wall showing the buildings
wattle-and-daub construction.
opulence from every nook and cranny. The

three colour-coded rooms all have keynote
decor: Blue is classically old-fashioned with
polished wooden bed frame and upmarket
wallpaper; Yellow is cosily countrified, with
flower-print quilt and half-tester bed; Red
has a touch of Zen sophistication thanks to
its Japanese-print bedspread and decorative
dragon headboard.
Willowbeck Lodge (%01228-513607; www.willow
Tours
beck-lodge.com; Lambley Bank, Scotby; d 100-120;

piwi-fi) The architects have gone doolally
Open Book Visitor Guiding (%01228-670578; www

.greatguidedtours.co.uk) offers tours of Carlisle
and the surrounding area from April to
September, including visits to Carlisle Castle
and Hadrians Wall. Tours leave from the
tourist office.
at this palatial B&B, 3 miles east of the city

centre. Its a modernist marvel, boasting six
deluxe rooms furnished in creams and taupes, with luxury spoils including corner tubs,
broadband and LCD TVs. The centrepiece is
the 7m-high gabled lounge, which overlooks
GUILDHALL MUSEUM
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

DISTRICT
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

DISTRICT
740 N O R T H E R N C U M B R I A C a r l i s l e
a private pond frequented by kingfishers and

herons. Fabulous.
Eating
Alexandros (%01228-592227; 68 Warwick Rd; meze
3-6, mains 10-16; hdinner Mon-Sat) Go Greek with
authentic meze, grilled kebabs and calamari at
this ever-popular restaurant on Warwick Rd
just remember that smashing your plates is
reserved for special occasions...
Priors Kitchen Restaurant (%01228-543251; Carlisle
Cathedral; lunches 4-6; h9.45am-4pm Mon-Sat) Hidden
in the old monks mess hall, this cosy little cafe
is always a favourite stop for jacket spuds, club
sandwiches and homemade quiches and it
does a mean cream tea, too.
Le Gall (%01228-818388; 7 Devonshire St; mains 5-12;
hlunch & dinner) Despite the Gallic name, this
town-centre bistro brims with world flavours.
Italian panini and pastas, Mexican wraps and
Cumbrian standards fill the specials board.
oTeza Indian Canteen (%01228-525111; 4a
English Gate Plaza; mains 8-14; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat)
Wave goodbye to those tired old vindaloos

this 21st-century Indian stands out from
Carlisles other curry houses like a Bollywood
superstar in a crowd of extras. It shimmers
with chrome, plate glass and modern art,
and champions a new breed of Indian cuisine Keralan fish curry, tiger prawns with
coriander and cloves, and slow-cooked lamb
in pickled ginger.
Number 10 (%01228-524183; 10 Eden Mount; mains
13-21; hdinner Tue-Sat) Arguably the citys top
spot, this classy Brit brasserie north of the
centre takes its cue from the culinary produce it finds on its doorstep, from Thornby
Moor goats cheese to farm-bred lamb and
Morecambe Bay shrimps. Tables are limited,
and it gets busy.
Drinking
Botchergates the place for late-night action,
but it gets notoriously rowdy after kicking-out
time, so watch your step.
Office (%01228-404303; Botchergate) Industrial
pipes, cube lights and stripped style define this
hipster hang-out, with DJs spinning breakbeat, chunky house and hip-hop.
Unit (%01228-514823; Botchergate) Another
metro-style bar decked out in retro garb, with
DJs and deep leather sofas to pull in Carlisles
trendy set.
Griffin (%01228-598941; Court Sq) The pick of
the town centre pubs, housed in a converted
lonelyplanet.com
bank. Jennings ales on tap, street tables for

when the sun shines, and a half-decent
Sunday roast to boot.
Cafe Solo (%01228-631600; 1 Botchergate) Sink
lattes by day, chased down with Sol beers,
margaritas and late-night tapas after dark at
this Balearic corner bar.
Mood 2 (%01228-520383; 70 Botchergate) Concept
club fresh from a 1m refurbishment. Charty
choons in the main room, hip-hop and R&B
in the annexe, plus a cocktail chill-out bar
when youre done shaking your booty.
Brickyard (%01228-512220; www.brick-yard.com; 14
Fisher St) Carlisles main gig venue, housed in
the former Memorial Hall.

BUS
Carlisle is Cumbrias main transport hub.

National Express coaches travel from the bus
station on Lonsdale St to London (33, 7
hours, three direct daily, with extra buses via
Birmingham), Glasgow (17.20, two hours,
14 daily) and Manchester (24, 3 hours,
seven daily).
The most useful services to the Lakes
are the 600 (one hour, seven Monday to
Saturday) to Cockermouth and the 554
to Keswick (70 minutes, three daily), connecting with the 555/556 LakesLink to
Windermere and Ambleside.
The 104 operates to Penrith (40 minutes,
hourly Monday to Saturday, nine on Sunday),
and Bus AD122 (the Hadrians Wall bus; six
daily late May to late September) connects
Hexham and Carlisle.
TRAIN
Carlisle is on the London Euston (123.50,

3 to 4 hours) to Glasgow (43.20, 1 to
1 hours) line, with hourly connections in
either direction. Its also the terminus for
several regional railways:
Cumbrian Coast Line Follows the coastline to Lancaster
(23, three to four hours).
Lakes Line Branches at Oxenholme near Kendal for
Windermere (19.50, one to two hours depending on
connections).
Settle-Carlisle Line Cuts southeast across the Yorkshire
Dales (15.80, 1 hours).
Tyne Valley Line Follows Hadrians Wall to Newcastleupon-Tyne (12.10, 1 hours).
Getting Around
To book a taxi, call Radio Taxis (%01228-527575),
Citadel Station Taxis (%01228-523971) or County
Cabs (%01228-596789).
PENRITH
pop 14,882
Traditional butchers, greengrocers and quaint

little teashops line the streets of Penrith, a
stout, redbrick town which feels closer to
the no-nonsense villages of the Yorkshire
Dales than to the chocolate-box villages of
the Central Lakes. Once the regions capital,
Penrith remains a busy commercial centre
for eastern Cumbria; life still revolves around
the centuries-old market square, from where
a tight warren of colonnaded alleyways and
cobbled streets radiate out towards Beacon
Fell, where warning fires were once lit to warn
of impending border raids.
The tourist office (%01768-867466; pen.tic@eden
.gov.uk; Middlegate; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1-4.45pm
Sun) houses a small town museum displaying
archaeological finds.
Opposite the station is the ruined 14thcentury Penrith Castle (h7.30am-9pm Easter-Oct,
to 4.30pm Oct-Easter), built by William Strickland
(later Bishop of Carlisle and Archbishop of
Canterbury) and expanded by Richard III to
resist Scottish raids, one of which razed the
town in 1345.
Penriths name derives from an old Celtic
word meaning red fell, and the areas crimson
sandstone can be seen in many town buildings, including the 18th-century St Andrews
Church. A legendary giant (the rightful king
of all Cumbria) is said to be buried in the
churchyard, but the stone pillars supposedly
marking his grave are actually the weathered
remains of Celtic crosses.
Sleeping
Brooklands (%01768-863395; www.brooklandsguest
house.com; 2 Portland Pl; s 30-35, d 65-75) This topnotch Victorian guesthouse distinguished
by its richly furnished rooms and thoughtful decor. Some feature huge pine fourposters and rich purples, while others go for
soothing magnolias and flower prints. For
the full swank-factor youll want the fluffypillowed suite, with brass bedstead and
wall-mounted TV.
Brandelhow (%01768-864470; www.brandelhow
guesthouse.co.uk; 1 Portland Pl; s 32.50, d & tw 65) Next
door to Brooklands, there are plain, uncom-
N O R T H E R N C U M B R I A Pe n r i t h 741
plicated rooms at this Portland Pl staple, all

in pine and neutral beige, with lots of little
luxuries (minifridges, bickies, bath-robes).
Tuck into a sit-down tea on arrival, topped
off with a slice of Grandmas Courting Cake
or Lanies Expedition Flapjack.
Bank House (% 01768-868714; www.bankhouse
penrith.co.uk; Graham St; s 38, d 68-76; i wi-fi)
Unpretentious Cumbrian guesthouse which

does all the basics right (including a kingly
breakfast of coiled Cumberland sausage and
fresh-baked granary loaf). The rosy pink twin
room might be too lacy for some, but the
other doubles are more neutral, with DVD
players and wooden bed frames.
Hornby Hall (% 01768-891114; www.hornbyhall
.co.uk; Brougham; d 50-84; p ) Aspiring aristocrats should head for this amber-stone
manorhouse, 3 miles south of Penrith in
Brougham. The five sunny rooms overlook
the manicured grounds; two are reached
via a Hogwartsesque spiral staircase, and
breakfast is served in the 16th-century dining hall with its original stone hearth and
Victorian range.
Eating
No 15 (%01768-867453; 15 Victoria Rd; lunches 6-10;
hdaily) Look no further for lunch in Penrith
than this zingy little cafe-cum-gallery. There
are 15 specials to choose from behind the
counter, plus a bevy of artisan teas, cakes
and sarnies, and you can check out local art
and photography in the gallery annexe.
o Yanwath Gate Inn (% 01768-862886;
Yanwath; mains 16-19) Two miles south of town,
this award-winning inn has scooped a clutch
of culinary prizes for its gastro-grub. Wood
panels and A-frame beams conjure a convincingly rural atmosphere, and the menu
ranges the fells in search of local smoked
venison, salt lamb and crispy pork belly,
chased down by a delicious selection of
Cumbrian cheeses.

BUS
The bus station is northeast of the centre,

off Sandgate. Bus 104 runs between Penrith
and Carlisle (45 minutes, hourly Monday to
Saturday, nine on Sunday).
Bus X4/X5 (13 Monday to Saturday,
six on Sunday) travels via Rheged, Keswick and Cockermouth en route to the
Cumbrian Coast.
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

DISTRICT
CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

DISTRICT
Lonely Planet Publications

742 N O R T H E R N C U M B R I A A r o u n d Pe n r i t h
TRAIN
Penrith has frequent connections to Carlisle

(6.70, 20 minutes, hourly) and Lancaster
(12.50, 50 to 60 minutes, hourly).
AROUND PENRITH
Cunningly disguised as a Lakeland hill 2 miles
west of Penrith, Rheged (%01768-686000; www
.rheged.com; h10am-6pm) houses a large-screen
IMAX cinema and an exhibition on the history and geology of Cumbria, as well as an excellent retail hall selling Cumbrian goods from
handmade paper to chocolate and chutneys.
Theres a revolving line-up of movies
show. A new film starts hourly; one film costs
4.95/3 per adult/child, with each extra one
costing 3/2.
The frequent X4/X5 bus between Penrith
and Workington stops at the centre.
ALSTON
pop 2227
Surrounded by the bleak hilltops of the

Pennines, isolated Alstons main claim to
fame is its elevation: at 305m above sea level,
its thought to be the highest market town in
England (despite no longer having a market).
It feels much closer to the stout market towns
of the Pennines than the cosy rural settlements
of the Lake District, and the views in all directions are sublime. Its also famous among
steam enthusiasts thanks to the South Tynedale
Railway (%01434-381696, talking timetable 01434-382828;
www.strps.org.uk; adult/3-15yr return 5.50/2.50; hApr-Oct),
which puffs and clatters through the hilly country between Alston and Kirkhaugh, along a
route that originally operated from 1852 to
1976. The return trip takes about an hour; there
are up to five daily trains in midsummer.
Alstons tourist office (%01434-382244; alston.tic@
eden.gov.uk; Town Hall, Front St; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat,
to 4pm Sun Apr-Oct) is south of the town square.
Sleeping & Eating

Alston YHA (%0845 371 9301; The Firs; dm 12; hEasterOct) Basic hostel with three dorms overlooking the South Tyne Valley. Its popular with
walkers and cyclists on the C2C route, so
book ahead.
Lowbyer Manor (%01434-381230; www.lowbyer.com;
Alston; s 33, d 66-90) Handmade quilts (woven
by the owners relatives) and an endearing mix-and-match decor make this lovely
manorhouse Alstons cosiest B&B. The nine
rooms range from a titchy single to a king-size
four-poster suite overlooking Alston Moor.
Its especially handy for the steam train the
stations just a stroll away.
Yew Tree Chapel (%01434-382525; www.yewtree
chapel.co.uk; Slaggerby; s/d 39/68; p) Funky B&B
in a converted church, overflowing with wit
and style the original organ and stainedglass windows feature alongside flea-market
furniture and globe lights in the lounge. The
style is boho-chic colourful furnishings,
bric-a-brac and scatter cushions, plus freshbaked bread, cinnamon toast and gourmet
muesli for brekkie. Its in Slaggerby, 3 miles
north of Alston.
Lovelady Shield (%0871 288 1345; www.lovelady
.co.uk; Nenthead Rd; d 100-170; p) The country
hideaway par excellence, overflowing with
swag-draped beds, flouncy curtains and posh
wallpapers in white and gold. All rooms have
sofa suites, widescreen TVs and wonderful
views across the grounds, but it might be a
bit too stuffy for some.

Bus 888 travels twice daily to Newcastle (8,
80 minutes), and once to Penrith (6, 1
hours) and Keswick (7, 1 hours). Bus 680
runs from Nenthead to Carlisle via Alston
(four Monday to Saturday).
Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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Cumbria & the Lake

peak, Scafll Pike (p729)

ter Slate Mine (p730)

valleys of Wastwater (p723) and Eskdale

brian cooking at Hawksheads Drunken

thwaite Lake (p725)

Cruising Coniston Water aboard the steam

yacht Gondola (p720)

AREA: 2629 SQ MILES

NUMBER OF LAKE DISTRICT PEAKS

CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

Lonely Planet Publications

CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

Cycling is popular in Cumbria, especially

For many people, hiking on the fells is the main

tain ascents; most tourist offices sell maps and

Cumbria is a haven for adrenalin-fuelled

Getting There & Away

Carlisle is on the main Virgin West Coast

CUMBRIA & THE LAKE DISTRICT

To get to the Lake District, you need to

Call %08457 484950 for information on

National Express coaches run direct from

CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

Windermere, Coniston Water, Ullswater and

for guests. Hostels on the route include

The main operator is Stagecoach (www.stage

Useful bus routes include the 555 and 556

THE LAKE DISTRICT

Carlisle, and theres a fantastic visitor centre

Technically Kendal isnt in the Lake District,

CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

munched it during their ascent of Everest in

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Cumbria Tourist Board

website of the National Park Authority

his old office, complete with the great mans

various scenes from Lakeland life during the

the advice you could ever need on

excellent online guide to Cumbrias

tourist site covering the whole county

arts.co.uk), an excellent arts complex with two

comfy beds, DVD players and bathrobes are

o1657 Chocolate House (%01539-740702; 54

soups and fair-trade coffee at a much-loved

New Moon (%01539-729254; 129 Highgate; mains

Brewery Arts Centre, while hipsters head for

Getting There & Around

Kendals handiest bus is the Lakeslink 555/556

Kendal is on the Windermere (3.40, 15

the feudal seat of the Strickland family. The

Drinking & Entertainment

house & gardens adult/child 10/4.50, gardens only 7/3.50;

Kendals arty crowd shoot the breeze over

around a mid-13th-century pele tower. Fine

CUMBRIA & THE LAKE

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels