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When Heaven and Earth Collides

Stories of two different people, livin' in two different worlds but walking in one path made by Fate.
By ArCi Cruz

Thursday, October 7, 2010

Guide: How To Create Ragnarok Map

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Hi there! I just want to share something to all EK members specially to the ekRO players who wants
to learn how to create their own RO World. Well here is a complete guide on how to create maps. :D

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Requirements:
- BrowEdit (Trunk 620 or better use the Stable version for less bugs) You can get it here Click Here
Step 1: Getting started.
First thing to do is get an idea of what you want to do in your map and to write it down or draw it
out before going in an making it. Also messing about first and learning about the tool first will help
you make a better map in the end. Creating a test map and trying out all the parts of the guide to
get a feel for making maps and getting a feel for the scale and limitations can help before you jump
into some grand idea of making new towns, fields and dungeons for your server. So mess around
and have some fun.
Step 2: Making your map.
Once you are confinable using Browedit you can go ahead and make some maps for your server. To
make a map you have 2 options. First is using the File > New map feature (revision 584 and above
has a less buggy version of this feature but it is STILL BUGGED! Best to use the other option.) you
can set a custom size map as wide and as high as you like. Or you can use the Tools > Clear Map to
clear an existing map of it's textures, objects, lightmaps, etc. The second option has been the
preferred option as until revision 584 Browedit had the problem on not doing the lightmaps correctly
in the maps and the map textures always showed black in RO clients.
Step 3: Texture editing.
Now we get to put in our textures. Pressing the T key will bring up the texture window. Under the
menus you will find all sorts of textures to work with (Double click on the sections to open/close
them). Single click the textures you want and they will be added to the side list in the normal
window (Only visiable if your in texture or wall edit modes which you should be still in texture edit
at this point). I recommend the black texture from the root folder of your grf which I think is under
basics as your first texture to use as a base and for the edges of your map (Best not to work to the
very edge of a map as walls and doing slopping can be more difficalt or imposible). Unless your
doing a sky map like Yuno or the Valk map you will want to select one of the textures as a base from
the right side of the screen and using the Edit > Fill with selected texture fill the map with that
texture.
If you add a texture you don't want you can replace it by having it selected and holding the shift key
and clicking on a new texture in the texture window. The other way is to use the Edit > Remove
unused textures which will remove any texture that hasnit been placed on your map (If there are
textures after it you did use the texture order will be out and you will have to re go over them which
can be painstacking so chose your textures wisely from the start).
Placing textures is simple and easy and is the first thing you should do in making your map. In the
side texture list any texture that you drag the red box over to encase all or part of the texture will
be what you use wen placing onto the map. Then using the = and - keys to resize your texture,
space to rotate it, [ and ] to scroll though the maps texture list, H and V to change the texture's
horizontal and vertical facing of the selected texture and [ and ] to change which texture is
selected, and put down the textures how you want them. I should point out that Gravity uses the
tiles at half normal scale in their maps as well as having them at other scaled sizes (Including some
that Browedit can't do) so look at official maps for the scale of things. In case you do a miss take
you can use the undo key U to undo it. I should also point out that to do invisable tiles simply use

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STORIES OF TWO
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the backspace key to change the area covered by your tile brush to invisable tiles.
Step 4: Height editing.
Once we have our textures placed on the map we can start editing the height of these textures. If
we goto the menu and select Edit Mode > Detail Terrain Edit and then the size you wish to edit the
height of the tiles with. If you want a guide to how high you should make things I recommend using
a Prontera house as a guide for height, a least until you get used to how things are (Other objects
can be a good guide to heigh but some are not so be careful which you use). To raise or lower tiles
simply use the left mouse button to raise and right + left mouse buttons to lower the tiles you have
the grid over. To do alot of tiles the same way it can be advantages to use the C key to copy the
tiles your mouse grid is hovering over and pasting the copied tile height to the new location with
the left click of your mouse (The P key will bring back the copied selection again if you need to use
it more then once).
If you hold down Ctrl while having part of your grid coving a max height you want or max deapth you
can use the left and right mouse buttons to raise or lower tiles to the same height or death as the
the rest. This is another greate way to do walls or make slop areas ready for the F or S keys.
Step 5: Slops.
Now the fun part, making ramps and other kinds of slopped serfaces. This can get alittle tricky
since the maps have this thing of merging from the topleft to the bottom right. In other words when
you make a slop using the [b]F[/b] key it will make the tiles join from left to the right and from up
to down (You will get what I mean if you try and make a slop of your own. To fix the sides use the
copy key C I talked about before with a grid only covering the slopped tiles and paste over the other
parts to fix up the slop edges). You can also use the Edit > Sloping to turn on/off sloping of tiles
with a grid of 2x2 or bigger to also create slops.

While this may be so when using the F key, it isn't so for the S key (Stands for smooth, I think).
Using the S key we can make smooth curved slops for hills, lakes, etc (Really handy for smothing out
areas) and the more we use it on the same spot the more it will smooth out the area (The area is
the size of your height editing tool grid which can be changed with the = and - keys). You can also
use the Edit > Sloping mode to allow you to slop tiles yourself a bit like how you raised the tiles with
the left mouse button to raise and right + left mouse buttons to lower.
When making cliff faces you might want to experiment to find a system that works for you and feel
free to put bumps, etc in your cliffs to give it a bit more of a non man made look. Also if your using
the S key to make the slop you might want to only use it once for a more cliff look else it will make
it less and less of a cliff and more of a slope.

Step 6: Walls.
Once we have finished making our slops and other height changes (stairs and such) we will have to
put in the wall facing for the tiles that are raised or lowered and don't have a slopped tile connecting
from all the different sides.
Goto Edit Mode > Wall Edit and using the , and . keys (, is for the vertical facing walls and . for the
horizontal facing walls. Pressing the key once will put a wall on one side, pressing the same key
again will remove the wall) place your walls in on the tiles on your map (The wall tools will use what
ever texture is selected). Wall on tiles will only cover 2 sides, to do the other sides you have to use
the adjusting walls. If you hold down the ctrl key while using the , and . keys browedit will do all the
tiles in a row up until the edge of the map or where your tiles are not raised / lowered from each
other, which ever come first ( Example of adding walls in this vid of Borf's
http://youtube.com/watch?v=0YgAEkwkx-4 ).
Once your walls are in you can use the W key (and ALT W for vertical faces) to fix up the look of the
wall (Do not use this on the edges of your map or it will make a spiked line across it). You can place
walls in individually and flip them on the horizontal/vertical axis to get them more to your liking if
you want as the W key will do the whole wall the same and you might want some of it different or
something.
Browedit can also now alter the walls by single clicking the walls while in wall edit mode which will
bring up a window and you can then adjust the box to change how that wall displays the texture.
This is handy if you which to give it a slop or to change what is show on the wall to be a smaller or
larger area for the texture as well as flipping the single part of the wall horizontal or vertical instead
of the whole wall with the H and V keys (Hold Alt for vertical faces when using the H and V keys).
Step 7: Placing Objects.
Now we move onto the part where we get to put all our objects in. First we select our objects by
opening the object window with the M key. Then selecting our object much the same way as the
textures we close the window and pressing CTRL left click where you want to place your object (It

will snap to the ground where ever you decide to place the object) and then you can drag it around
((Holding down the Shift key will snap it to the grid which you can change the size of with the
number keys on your keyboard, 1 across to 0.) or raise / lower it using the Page Up and Page Up
keys as well as rotate the object and resize it (Holding down the Shift key while using the other keys
will do them at greater intervals, good for fast rotating and quickly raising / lowering an object).
Another thing to know is that holding CTRL can be usefull to rotate an object and ALT can be usefull
to rescale an object but it might be better to use the propertise (ENTER key to open the propertise
window) to be more accurate.
If you wish to select/edit multiple objects at once you can use the Edit Mode > Object Group Edit to
select, copy and move multiple objects (Use the [ and ] keys to change from select to edit). In
Object Group edit you can copy your selected objects with the D key which will copy all the objects
currently selected ready to be moved to where ever you which to place them (They will be at the
same height as the original and if you have Snap Objects to Floor on they all will snap to the ground
when you move them which wouldn't be good if you have something like a sakura tree).
You should note that not all objects keep the angles very well, but if you use the left rotation box (in
the propertise window) do not expect them to be same in the editor to how it is in-game, so check
them in-game (It's only that box that does it and if you leave it at 0 you will have no problems). Also
heights and placement of objects can be a little different in-game as well, which is something you
might notice if you happen to try and making big leafy trees or a Sakura (cherry blossom) trees or
some of the houses will have moved over a bit (I know of one prontera house that does this).
Note: If you wish to remove an object just select the object (or objects if your in the group edit)
and use the Backspace key to delete the object or objects. You can also copy a group of objects with
other stuff like the tiles their on and the lightmaps. This vid shows an example useage of it in an
earlier version: [url]http://youtube.com/watch?v=zTUrpFEmKZo[/url]

Step 8: Water.
To edit the water on a map you simply goto Windows > Water to open up the water properties
window, and simply edit the height of the water to what you want (you have to use negatives for
water above the 0 height). And for wave height you edit the Phase setting. The SurfaceCycle is the
setting that says how fast the water moves the waves. Best to check your changes in-game if your
messing with the water unless it's only the height.
You won't see any of the changes execpt the water height and type which you can also change with
the [ and ] keys in the water edit mode (Edit > Water Edit).

Step 9: Gat Tiles.

Now we tell the editor where we want to walk and not walk by using the Edit Mode > GAT Edit mode
to allow us to set where players can walk. to do this we simply use the [ and ] keys to change the
top tile on the list on the right to the one you want and left click (You can draw with this tool to, so
to speak). Feel free to come back to this step if you suddenly decide to change something.
If you add the following to the eathena source you can add no char and no vend gat tiles to your map
(If you do they will only work on a server with the source edit so if you use this add the source code
to a txt file with your map if your sharing the map out).

-- map/map.c -static struct mapcell map_gat2cell(int gat)

{
struct mapcell cell;
memset(&cell, 0, sizeof(cell));
switch( gat )
{
case 0: cell.walkable = 1; cell.shootable = 1; cell.water
cell.nochat = 0; break; // walkable ground
case 1: cell.walkable = 0; cell.shootable = 0; cell.water
cell.nochat = 1; break; // non-walkable ground
case 2: cell.walkable = 1; cell.shootable = 1; cell.water
cell.nochat = 0; break; // no vending
case 3: cell.walkable = 1; cell.shootable = 1; cell.water
cell.nochat = 0; break; // walkable water
case 4: cell.walkable = 1; cell.shootable = 1; cell.water
cell.nochat = 1; break; // no chat
case 5: cell.walkable = 0; cell.shootable = 1; cell.water

= 0; cell.novending = 0;
= 0; cell.novending = 1;
= 0; cell.novending = 1;
= 1; cell.novending = 0;
= 0; cell.novending = 0;
= 0; cell.novending = 1;

cell.nochat = 1; break; // gap (snipable)

case 6: cell.walkable = 1; cell.shootable = 1; cell.water = 0; cell.novending = 1;
cell.nochat = 1; break; // no vending & no chat
default:
ShowWarning("map_gat2cell: unrecognized gat type '%d'n", gat);
break;
}
return cell;
}
static int map_cell2gat(struct mapcell cell)
{
if( cell.walkable == 1 && cell.shootable == 1
&& cell.nochat == 0 ) return 0;
if( cell.walkable == 0 && cell.shootable == 0
&& cell.nochat == 1 ) return 1;
if( cell.walkable == 0 && cell.shootable == 0
&& cell.nochat == 0 ) return 2;
if( cell.walkable == 1 && cell.shootable == 1
&& cell.nochat == 0 ) return 3;
if( cell.walkable == 0 && cell.shootable == 0
&& cell.nochat == 1 ) return 4;
if( cell.walkable == 0 && cell.shootable == 1
&& cell.nochat == 1 ) return 5;
if( cell.walkable == 0 && cell.shootable == 0
&& cell.nochat == 1 ) return 6;

&& cell.water == 0 && cell.novending == 0

&& cell.water == 0 && cell.novending == 1
&& cell.water == 0 && cell.novending == 1
&& cell.water == 1 && cell.novending == 0
&& cell.water == 0 && cell.novending == 0
&& cell.water == 0 && cell.novending == 1
&& cell.water == 0 && cell.novending == 1

ShowWarning("map_cell2gat: cell has no matching gat typen");

return 1; // default to 'wall'
}

Step 10: Gat Tile Height Editing.

(This step should be only done after you have done the others as it can be a pain to redo it after
using the Edit > Set Gat Height. But if you do have to edit the terrain use the Spacebar key to set
the gat tile(s) height to the new terrain height and/or angle) To edit the height of a GAT tile you
simply do it much the same as you edited the height of the textured tiles. This allows you to either
walk in mid air, walk in the ground, and walk on top of things like chairs, bridges, etc. You can also
you the slopping keys or the Edit > Sloping to slop the GAT tiles for ramps and stuff much the same
as you raised and lowered objects with the Page Up and Page Up keys.
[color=orange]Step 11: Lighting.[/color]
Now we move into the part on lighting. This is where we make our sunlight as well as any other kind
of lights we want. First we will want to do the smaller lights as the lights are rendered according to
the order you placed them and if you place the sunlight first it tends to kill all other lights except
where there are shadows (Unless you keep the light falloff set to 1). To place a light you simply
change over to the light editing mode Edit Mode > lights Edit and place the light much the same as
you would an object except the light will be a 0 height so be careful where you place the light or it
might end up under your textured tiles. Simply drag (Left click the light first to select it) the light
where you want it and hold the CTRL key and drag to raise/lower the light (The dragging motion will
go in the opposite direction to the light but the light icon is where the light comes from).
To render the lights you have placed simply goto the Generate > Calculate Lightmaps to tell
Browedit to render out your lighting onto the map (You can see the progress in the pop up window
which changes colour as it goes across. If you hold the mouse over the bar it will give you the
percentage it's upto and you can also see the editor doing the lightmaps with the Preview button).
To show the lightmaps on your map goto View > Lightmaps to make the lightmaps visible on your
map. Using the Generate > Calculate Lightmaps Without Shadows is a quicker way to preview your
lighting then Generate > Calculate Lightmaps as it doesn't have to spend the time doing shadows.
Also using Generate > Calculate Lightmaps for Selected lights you can see how a single light lights
your map and if you have tiles selected in Global Height Edit you can use Generate > Calculate
Selected Lightmaps to only do that selected area of the map, good for a quick fix up if you just only
happened to do a small edit.
I should point out that at the time of writing this Browedit doesn't cast shadows off walls, you have
to use igun and photoshop (or paint .net) if you want the sunlight to do this.
Step 12: Editing your Lights.

With your lights placed you might want to edit them to make them a different colour or to make
them brighter or duller. To do this left click on the light and press enter to bring up the Light's
Properties box.
Browedits lighting has changed from the old system that we had before with only the settings of
Position, Colour & Intensity. We now have Range, Max Light Increment, Light Falloff and Casts
Shadows settings added to the light properties box.
Name: You can name your lights for easy referance later.
Position setting: This is the x, z,y coordinates of your light. With this you can manually type in the
coordinates for your light in the horizontal, height, vertical axis of the map (This is the only way
you can do a sunlight source light which you would set to something like -3000, 25000, -3000).
Colour: These 3 boxes are for the Red, Green, Blue colour light settings of your lights. 0 being white
and 1 being 100% of that colour so use decimal places to get something nicer (Like 0.3).
Intensity: This controls mainly the intensity or brightness of the light. It also controls the Light
Falloff in that it limits how close the Light Falloff can go towards the centre of the light. What this
means is the larger the number is for Intensity over the Range of the light the less distance the
Light Falloff will cover and thus increasing the area covered by the light where its all the same
brightness. While if the Intensity is less then the Range the falloff will reach centre without
reaching the Max Light Increment level, creating a darker light than what you set with the Max
Light Increment.
Range: There isnt much to this setting; Range controls how far the light can cover before stoping
regardless of the Light Falloff setting. I believe it counts the distance in the number of lightmap
cells in distance from the light (This is from the light to the ground so the height of the ground and
the height of the light will affect how far the light covers).
Max Light Increment: This setting I believe is the brightness of the light and doesnt go past 255.
When using this treat it like a brightness setting and you shouldnt have any problems handling it.
Light Falloff (0-1): The Light Falloff sets weather the light has a kind of blurred edge (Like the
feather setting in Photoshop when using the selection tools). With this setting Borf for some reason
set this as a box like the other settings instead of a tick box so you have to set a 0 to 1 (decimal
places control the feathering / blurred edge), 0 being off, while 1 is full feathering or blurred edge
around the light.
Casts Shadows: This setting is so you can set a light to either cast shadows off objects or not. This
allows you to have lights in things and not worry about the shadows coming off the objects (Gravity
used it for lava rocks and other such things that would give off their own glow or light source). Use
the Generate > Smooth Lightmaps to smooth out the lightmaps if you want them to blend better.
On a side note if the checkbox doesn't un-tick saving your map and closing Browedit and restarting
or simply closing your map and reopening can unlock the checkbox. This is a known bug and
annoying too.
Examples usage of lightmaping can be found in the following vids:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=eBJVpq8ZSCc
http://youtube.com/watch?v=w_cE6jCpnDk
Step 13: Ambient Lighting.
Ambient Lighting has had a work over thanks to Henko and now should be easier to use since
Browedit will show the lighting more accurately then it did before.
As you 'll notice there is now a Diffuse Light Section and a Ambient Light Section. Both sections will
give you control over the lighting and how much you want. It's more of changing it to how you best
think it should look and trying it out ingame. You best option is to probably think of the 2 sections
like this, The diffused light is your source light and coming from the opposite direction is the
ambient light which lightens up the shadows of the objects and hillsides.
Diffuse Light (Color):
Used to change the lighting of your map and is set in a Red, Green, Blue layout with 1 being 100%
and 0 being 0%.
Diffuse Light (Longitude angle):
This sets the horizontal angle in which your light source comes from this allows you to change the
ambient light from it's default angle or something like 45 to a different side for walls and objects
to have their shadows on. Usefull for maps with the sun coming from the south / east or north /
east direction instead of the normal south / west direction.

Diffuse Light (Latitude angle):

This sets the vertical angle in which your light source comes from this allows you to change the
ambient light from it's default angle or something like 45 to a higher or lower angle for high noon
sun or setting sun type maps.
Ambient Light (Color):
Used to change the lighting of the shadows on your map and is set in a Red, Green, Blue layout with
1 being 100% and 0 being 0%.
Ambient Light (Intensity):
This is kind of like the brightness of your source light, 1 being 100% bright and 0 having no light at
all (Your light will then only come from the Diffuse Light settings if you set this to ).
Step 14: Effects
To place effects you will need to first pick the effect from the numbered list under effects. Don't
worry their all named and if you want to know how they look ingame use the @effect command to
try them out. Once you picked the effect and while in Effects Edit simply place them by holding
CTRL and left clicking the mouse which will place an icon with the effect number and name above it.
The posision of an effect is something you will need to check ingame as effects ar not always at the
same height as the icon in browedit also the scale and rotation isn't working so leave them as is.
The Loop Time is also tricky to set. You will either need to find the effect in an existing map or
work out the timing from trial and error ingame.
Step 15: Sounds
Sounds are bugged. Alot of the stuff is there but there is much still unknown about sounds in RO
maps that if you do use Browedit's sound edit you'll probably crash your ro client when the sounds try
to play, so I'm leaving this bit till later.
Step 16: Sprites
Sprites are the last thing you do and isn't really needed but is a fancy way to show off your map with
chars and npcs without having to place them in with the server and login with the ro client. Also
sprites can help you get an idea of scale in your maps and this is important as it will help you decide
on how high you cliffs and walls should be or if your doing a dungeon or inside a house it will help
you get an idea of how cramp or spacious your rooms and hallways are.

Tips and Tricks

Mazes: If you need a good maze try using the lightmap export and with Photoshop clear the
lightmaps to completely black and draw white paths where you want your maze paths. Then once you
have the lightmaps imported back in use the Maze Stuff and browedit will raise the tiles ready for
you to add walls (Sorry but it doesn't do it for you, and it uses the ground textures you already have
placed). The other way is to use the Room Maze which will use the first 3 textures from your map's
texture list (First for the top, so make this one black. Second for floor, and the Third for walls) to
create a maze of rooms with doorways joining them. These are great ways to create mazes for
dungeons so try them out.
Hills: Use this to create random hills for open field maps. It's a greate way to give a field a random
terrain height feel. Cancel at the time of writing this is the same as accepting the stuff you put in
the boxes, Borf might fix it later.
Cave Dungeon: This will create a random dungeon that is supost to be a cave but it will need you to
smooth the walls once it's been generated. This has feature of Browedit has been crashing on me of
late so if it does for you then try an older Browedit revision.
Mountains: There are no settings to this one like the Hills feature has. It will simply give you a
mountain (Or just the slop if you map is to small) using the 2nd and 3rd textures from your list. The
2nd for flat(ish) ground and the 3rd for cliff faces (If you don't have at least 3 textures for your map
Browedit will crash. So make sure you have at least 3. You can change the textures later if you wish
by have the texture in the list selected in texture edit mode and while holding the shift key select a
new texture from the texture window). Great tool but you might want to go around the edges
cleening the textures up a bit to make them blend in or something.
Objects: Never be afraid to experiment and add lots of objects, but while your at it check them
ingame to see if their correctly placed, scaled and rotated. Objects don't always have to be on their
own too, using objects inside other objects you can create whole new looks. Also you can add your
own objects with Borf's 3ds to rsm converter.

Lights: When adding sunlight your best option is to have a light placed at -2500 25000 -2500 with a
range of 2000000 and set the intencity of 256 and turn off light fall off and also if you create a light
and set it to be placed at 2500 25000 2500 with a range of 2000000 and set the intencity of 256
with a Max Inc of 128 and to not cast shadows it will lighten your shadows to a grey colour instead
of the black. If you have coloured lights or small lights period you might want to drop the max inc of
the sunlight and sun shadow filling light to allow the coloured/small lights to come though better.
Good for street lights, etc for a night effect (setting the ambient light to a dark blue will also help
give it that much more of the night time look). Another thing to look at with lights is placing them
inside objects. If you open the properties of an object you wish to place a light in while your in the
object edit mode you can set the opacity to 0 which will allow lights to pass though an object. This
is handy for lava rocks giving off their own glow and for street lights and the like where you would
like the light source coming from inside the object
Walls blocking lights: This is a handy trick for when you want a wall blocking a light or to even cast
a shadow (without having to do the wall shadows with igun). Simply find a flat square (or
rectangular object) and stretch the object to cover the wall (Best to place inside the wall as not to
block the light on the side of the wall you do want lit) this object will then block unwanted light from
passing though the wall to the other side. Great for dungeons or inside building walls where their is
a light on on side and there isn't on their other. You can also scale the object into the negitive and
the object will then never show up in the client as the clients never show the back side of any
objects to save on graphics processing.
Reducing visual lag: You may have visual lag while using the client. It happens if you have a slow
computer or everything visible. Your best to have only the stuff you want visible that your working
with. If the water is under everything you might want to turn it of. Turn off lightmaps unless your
checking your lights and grids can slow things down to so you might only want to show them when
you need them. Objects are another thing to slow down your graphics as the more you place and the
more that are on the screen the more your video card has to render onto the screen. Zoom in or
turn them off if you don't need them on the screen. If you only have the textures visible it's easier
to zoom out to do the minimap too.
Minimaps: Making your own mini is easy but you might want to take in some of the Reducing visual
lag tips to make it easier to zoom out in View > Topcamera mode and zoom out until you can see
the whole map from above, then turn on your lightmaps, objects and water (If it's not under the
entire map and isn't visible already), then take a screenie with Alt+Print Screen and paste it into an
image editor (Photoshop, paint dot net or paint, it doesn't matter), crop and save as a bitmap (Best
to save as a 256 colour aka 8 bit bmp) in your RO/data/texture//Map folder with
the map name ready to be listed in the resnametable (See the guides under adding your maps).

Adding Your Maps

Adding your maps to your client and eathena server (Since I don't use any of the others fell free to
message me if you do and know how to add maps) is simple. What you'll need is the any of the
following files:
indoorrswtable.txt - Sets the client to a fixed angle for indoor type map(s).
mapnametable.txt - Sets the ingame display name of the map(s).
mp3nametable.txt - Sets the mp3 music that will play while a player is on the map.
resnametable.txt - Tells the client what files to load for ground, textures, objects and minimap.
Great for also duplicating maps without needing extra copies of the map files.
To set a map to have a fixed camera angle simply create or extract the indoorrswtable.txt from any
of your grf files (sdata.grf is often the most upto date). It's basically a text file with
map_name.rsw# listed for maps you or gravity wants to have a fixed camera angle.
indoorrswtable.txt example

alberta_in.rsw#
izlude_in.rsw#
gef_tower.rsw#
geffen_in.rsw#

Making your map show the name you want instead of a file name or nothing you'll want to create /
edit the mapnametable.txt which uses a simple structure of map_name.rsw#Display Name#
mapnametable.txt

town.rsw#Town#
fld01.rsw#Field#
fld02.rsw#Field#
fld03.rsw#Field#
fld04.rsw#Field#
fld05.rsw#Field#

Having the mp3 music of your choice play when people are on your map is a simple task of telling
the client via the mp3nametable.txt which file in the client's bgm directory to play like so
map_name.rsw#bgmmp3_file_name.mp3.
mp3nametable.txt
bossnia_04.rsw#bgm\\50.mp3#
itemmall.rsw#bgm\\08.mp3#
poring_w01.rsw#bgm\\52.mp3#
poring_w02.rsw#bgm\\102.mp3#
nameless_i.rsw#bgm\\111.mp3#

The last client file you'll create / edit is the resnametable.txt which handles the loading of maps
into the client inself and as such is the most important. Each map is set via 4 lines of code:
Type Code
Ground client_map_name.gnd#file_map_name.gnd#
Walkable Tiles client_map_name.gat#file_map_name.gat#
Objects client_map_name.rsw#file_map_name.rsw#
Mini Map \map\client_map_name.bmp#
\map\file_map_name.bmp#
Note: When you have the cilent_map_name the same as the file_map_name your map will load like
normal but if you wish to use the same mini map for a group of maps (eg. maps without a minimap
might want to use a blank.bmp) simply use the same mini maps file name. Or if you wanted to
duplicate a map, then changing the cient_map_name to have say a number added to the
file_map_name would do the trick.
Type Duplicate Code Example
Ground mymap01.gnd#mymap.gnd#
Walkable Tiles mymap01.gat#mymap.gat#
Objects mymap01.rsw#mymap.rsw#
Mini Map \map\mymap01.bmp#\map\mymap.bmp#
Else
Type Non Duplicate Code Example
Ground mymap01.gnd#mymap.gnd#
Walkable Tiles mymap01.gat#mymap.gat#
Objects mymap01.rsw#mymap.rsw#
Mini Map \map\mymap01.bmp#\map\mymap.bmp#
Once you have the client files done (You can use a grf tool to add them to a grf file if you want
which I'm sure you would before giving them to players) all you will have to do now is add your
map(s) to your server. For these examples I'm using an eAthena server and as updates happen daily
this might change over time. Adding a map to your eAthena server you'll need to edit 2 of these 3
files, the maps_athena.conf in the conf folder or it's import file map_conf.txt (which can be found
in the eathena/conf/import/ ) and the map_index.txt in the eAthena/db/ folder. Each of these files
does have a discription at the top of the file and you can just follow the example of the existing
maps but I'll cover it here also.
The maps_athena.conf (Or map_conf.txt which is a better choice to edit) is set like so "map:
map_name.gat" and this allows the server to load in your map and it's gat tiles.
maps_athena.conf (or map_conf.txt)
map:
map:
map:
map:

dungeon001.gat
gef_vilg00.gat
gef_vilg01.gat
moc_dugn01.gat

The map index is used for caching the gat tiles on each map either into memory or into the cache
file (map_cache.dat) all you need to do is list each map after the "Place your custom maps with a
starting ID here." like so:

map_index.txt
dungeon000 1250
dungeon001
gef_vilg00
gef_vilg01
moc_dugn01
moc_dugn02

If you notice only the first map needs the starting id of 1250 added after it. The id is there for the
sole reason that the order should not be changed and as such this id is there to allow room for
added official gravity maps to your server.
On a side note if you wish to set a fog to your map then you'd have to edit the
fogparametertable.txt which I haven't poked at much so All I know is that it's set something like
map name, maybe a min fog setting, maybe a max fog setting, colour (Alpha, Red, Green, Blue, Eg
0xffffffff), and probably the range.
-End of GuideHope it helped everyone :D
Posted by When Heaven and Earth Collides at 3:38 PM
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