www.BobsPlans.

com

Router Table Plans

Increase the capabilities of your router with this weekend project. Features a sliding fence with EZ-Mount
clamps. These clamps are simple to make and grip tightly and quickly. They make the fence easy to position
for accurate cuts. The top and fence plates are made of countertop material. The frame and bit holder, are made
of stock. Either hardwood or pine works fine.
The extensive use of pocket holes makes the assembly of this project easy and intuitive. If you have never used
pocket holes in your woodworking projects, youll wonder how you ever got by without them. Pocket hole
joints are extremely strong and there is no measuring. You simply drill the pocket holes in one of the work
pieces to be joined, (the exact location is not critical), clamp the pieces together and insert the screws. Since the
screws remain in the joint, they serve as both a dowel and a permanent clamp.
The lift out router plate allows easy access to the router and bit. Plus, there are several accessory plates
available that let you use a jig saw, pocket hole jig, and spindle sander with this table. It also features a miter
gauge slot. Links for the items youll need are included in the sponsors pages, along with several router
accessories.

Copyright 2005 by Robert E. Reedy

All rights reserved

Table of Contents
Please read and follow all tool manufacturers safety and operating instructions
before operating equipment. Always wear eye and hearing protection.

Materials List ....................................................................................................................... 1

Router Table Parts (A) .................................................................................................... 2
Router Table Parts (B) ...................................................................................................... 3
Router Table Parts (C) ....................................................................................................... 4
Router Table Parts (D)....................................................................................................... 5
Assemble the Sides .............................................................................................................. 6
Attach the Stiffeners & Legs ............................................................................................... 7
Attach the Feet ...................................................................................................................... 8
Bit Organizer Parts ............................................................................................................... 9
Assembling the Bit Organizer ............................................................................................ 10
Fence Base Drawing (A) ................................................................................................. 11
Fence Drawing (B) .......................................................................................................... 12
Stationary Faces Drawings ................................................................................................ 13
Support Blocks & Sliding Fence Plates ............................................................................. 14
Vacuum Box and EZ-Mount Clamps ................................................................................ 15
Assembling the Fence (A) ............................................................................................... 16
Assembling the Fence (B)................................................................................................ 17
Assembling the EZ-Mount Clamps .................................................................................... 18
Legs Full Patterns (Top Section) .................................................................................... 19
Legs Full Patterns (Bottom Section) ............................................................................... 20

Introduction
Thank you for purchasing our Router Table Plans. I hope you find this router table to be a
rewarding and satisfying project. For the prototype, the top and sliding sub fences were made
from some old table top material I had lying around. I chose this material because it was nice and
flat and wood slides easily over it. MDF (Multi-Density Fiberboard) is an excellent choice too.
Whatever material you use, make sure it is flat or you wont get accurate cuts when using it.
You can make the rest of the parts from any type of wood you choose. I used popular but pine
would work too. You can purchase all the parts and accessories youll need from the companies
listed on the sources page.

Professionally Built Router Tables

Here are some great ready made router tables from name brand tool manufacturers. It's
always best to read the reviews from other woodworkers that have actually used them
before deciding on a specific product.

Wolfcraft Router Table

Click here for current
price & reviews.

Bosch Router Table

Click here for current
price & reviews.

Bench Dog Router Table

Click here for current
price & reviews.

Routers for the Home Shop

Porter Cable Router

Click here for current
price & reviews.

DeWalt Router
Click here for current
price & reviews.

Daisy Pin Router

Click here for current
price & reviews.

Materials List
Page 1

Router Table Materials List

Qty

Size

Material

Item Name

22" X 16

1" Countertop material or MDF

Top

18" X 2 1/4"

3/4" Stock

Front/Back

10 1/2" X 2 1/4"

3/4" Stock

Ends

15" X 2 3/4"

3/4" Stock

Front Stiffener

16 1/2" X 1 1/4"

3/4" Stock

Rear Stiffener

16" X 3 1/2"

3/4" Stock

Feet

12" X 5 1/2"

3/4" Stock

Legs

15" X 4 1/4"

3/4" Stock

Bit Organizer Top

15" X 2 3/4"

3/4" Stock

Bit Organizer Bottom

15" X 1 1/4"

3/4" Stock

Bit Organizer Sides

25" X 4"

3/4" Stock

Fence Base

10 1/2" X 3"

3/4" Stock

Stationary Fence Faces

12" X 4"

1" Stock

Sliding Fence Plates

2 1/2" X 2 1/2"

1" Stock

Square Fence Support Blocks

1 1/2" X 1 1/2"

1" Stock

Beveled Fence Support Blocks

6" X 2 1/2"

3/4" Stock

Vacuum Box Rear

6" X 2 7/8"

3/4" Stock

Vacuum Box Top

1 1/2" X 1"

3/4" Stock

EZ-Mount Clamp Riser

1 1/2" X 3"

3/4" Stock

EZ-Mount Clamp Block

8 " X 11 3/4"

1/4" Aluminum

Router Plate

22" by 1"

1/2" Aluminum

Miter Gauge Track

N/A

Plastic

Bit Safety Guard

48" X 3/4"

1/2" Aluminum

T-Track
T-Track Knobs and Bolts

Copyright 2005 by Robert E Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

All Rights reserved

Router Table Parts - (A)

Page 2

16"
22"

p
To equired)
1(

The top is made from 1" thick countertop material. I chose this material because I had some I
saved from an old office table. It was nice and flat and showed no signs of warping. If you don't
have access to 1" thick material, you can make do with 3/4" stock. But the material must be flat.
You can probably find some MDF board that is stable and flat.

2 1/4"

18"

10 1/2"
2 1/4"

k
ac

ds )
En uired
eq

B
nt/ uired)
o
r
F Re q

R
2(

2(

The front, back, and sides are made from 3/4"

material. Drill the pockets holes as shown above.
The exact location of the pocket holes is not
critical.

Copyright

Holes are 5/16" diameter, 3 1/2" from

ends, 3 1/2" between centers, and 1
1/4" from bottom.

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

All Rights Reserved

Router Table Parts - (B)

Page 3

The stiffeners, legs, and feet are made from 3/4" stock.

1 1/4"
2 3/4"
7 1/2"

15"

1"
2"

S
nt
o
r
F

16 1/2"

r
ne
iffe

ar
Re

3 1/2"

16"

fr
1"

om

g
ed

en
tiff

er

Holes are 1/4"

diameter, 1" from
ends, 3 1/2"
between centers,
and 1 1/4" from top.

12"

Pocket Holes are 1

1/4" from edges.

6 1/4"

Feet

Legs

2 (Required)

2 (Required)

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

All Rights Reserved

5 1/2"

Router Table Parts - (C)

Page 4

8 1/4"

11 3/4"

4 3/4"
5 1/8"

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

To cut out the recess for the router plate, make a frame to guide your router as shown in Figure 1 below.
You'll need a 3/4" wide straight bit for this. To determine the dimensions of the frame, make a practice
cut as shown in Figure 2. Measure the distance "X" from the slot to the edge guide. The height of the
frame should be 8 1/4" plus two times the distance "X" and the width of the frame should be 11 3/4" plus
two times distance "X". For my router, the inside dimensions of this frame turned out to be a little more
than 13" by 16". But your router may be different so be sure to get the exact measurement and make your
frame accordingly.
You can assemble the frame with pocket holes as shown in Figure 1. Clamp the frame to the countertop
material so the cutout will be centered side to side and the front of the cutout will be 4 3/4" from the front
edge of the material. This allows room for the miter guage slot.
Set the router to cut a slot about 5/16" deep. (The router plate is 1/4" thick but you need to have the
recess a little deeper so you can set it to be flush with the table surface. You do this by putting a flathead
screw in each corner as shown in Figure 3. Then, you can adjust the screw height so the plate is flush
with the top on all four corners. Be sure the frame and workpiece are securely clamped to a solid work
table or workbench and follow all safety precautions that came with your router. Never use power tools
without safety glasses and don't wear loose clothing. Your clothing can get caught up in moving parts
with any type of power tool.
Continued on next page.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

All Rights Reserved

Router Table Parts - (D)

Page 5

You can remove the center of the cutout with a jig saw. Try to leave as much material around the edge as
possible. If your jig saw blade makes a 1/16" wide cut, the recess should have about an 11/16" wide edge
around it. Wait until the stiffeners are installed before putting the corner adjustment screws in place.

3 1/4"

Cut a slot 1" wide by 1/2" deep and 3 1/4" from the front edge as shown above.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

All Rights Reserved

Assemble the Sides

Page 6

Assemble the four sides with a pocket hole screw in each corner as shown above.

Attach the assembled sides to the underside of the top with pocket hole screws. It should be centered
from front to back and side to side.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

All Rights Reserved

Attach the Stiffeners & Legs to the Top

Page 7

Stiffeners

Attach the stiffeners to the underside of the top.

Attach the legs with 1/4" by 2" carriage bolts as shown. The slightly larger holes in the sides allow
you to adjust the legs to ensure they set flat on the worktable.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

All Rights Reserved

Attach the Legs to the Feet

Page 8

Attach the legs to the feet with pocket hole screws. The legs should be centered from side to side
and end to end of the feet. If you are including the bit organizer, be sure the holes for the bit
organizer are on the inside of the legs.

Adjustment Screws

Miter Gauge

Predrill a hole in each corner of the cutout and install the adjustment screws as shown above.
Adjust the screws so the router plate sits flush with the surface of the table top. Next, install the
miter guage with flathead screws as shown above. This completes the Router Table. Now, you're
ready to build the fence and bit organizer.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

All Rights Reserved

Bit Organizer Parts

Page 9

4 1/4"
2 3/4"
15"

15"

15"

p
To

Bo

m
tto
1 1/4"

es d )
Sid equire

o
(Tw

Cut the top, bottom, and 2 sides from 3/4" stock. The length should be the distance between the
legs. For the prototype, this was 15".

2"
2"
2"
2"
2"
2"
1 1/2"

1 1/4"
1 1/4"

Drill seven 9/16" holes along one edge of the top as shown. Then, drill eleven 9/32" holes along
the other edge as shown. This will accomodate seven bits with 1/2" shanks and eleven bits with
1/4" shanks.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

All Rights Reserved

Assemble the Bit Organizer

Page 10

Attach the top to the sides with 1 1/2" long finishing nails as shown. Then insert the bottom
between the sides as shown and attach with finishing nails.

You should already have two holes in each router table foot for attaching the bit organizer. Attach
the finished bit organizer to the feet using two flathead screws from the bottom of each foot. This
completes the Bit Organizer. Now, you're ready to build the fence.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

All Rights Reserved

Fence Drawings - (A)

Page 11

4"

Begin making the base by cutting a piece 25"

long by 4" wide from 3/4" stock.
25"

Fe

nc

a
eB

se

3/8"

1 3/4"

nt
Fr o

1/4" Diameter

5/16" Diameter
1 1/2" Rad.

1 1/4"

1 3/4"

12 1/2"

1/4" Diameter

Drill two 5/16" holes for the EZ Clamp Bolts. The 5/16" holes are 1 1/4" from each end and 1 3/4" from
the rear edge.
Drill two 1/4" holes 3/8" from the ends and 1 3/4" from the rear edge for the alignment dowels. These
holes for the alignment dowels are only 1/2" deep and must be drilled from the botom surface of the base.
Also, cut a half circle with a 1 1/2" radius as shown. This provides clearance for the router bit.

Copyright C

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

All Rights Reserved

Fence Drawings - (B)

Page 12

Holes for #8 Screws (countersunk)

4"

6"

On the bottom surface of the base, drill 4 holes

for # 8 screws and countersink them. All four
of these holes are 2" from the back edge.
These are for attaching the support blocks.

6"
2"
4"

Holes for #8 Screws (countersunk)

3/8"
2"
4"
4"

4"
4"
2"

On the bottom surface, drill 6 more holes for # 8 screws and countersink them. These are for attaching
the fence faces. All six of these holes are 3/8" from the front edge.

Copyright C

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

All Rights Reserved

Stationary Faces Drawings

Page 13

1 1/2" Radius
3"

10 1/2"

10 1/2"

3"

Holes for #8 Screw (countersunk)

1/2"

1 1/2" Radius
2"

1 1/2"
1 1/2"

2"
1 1/2"

4"

3 1/2"

5/16" holes

3 1/2"

4"

Cut two pieces of 3/4" material for the faces and drill the holes as shown. Make a curved cutout with 1
1/2" radius at the corners as shown. The two faces will be mirror images of each.
The countersunk screw holes are for attaching the faces to the support blocks. The 5/16" holes are for the
T-Track Bolts. (The T-Track bolts allow you to adjust the fence for different diameter bits.) Originally, I
had planed to use star knobs on the T-Track bolts but there wasn't enough clearance. I ended up using
standard hex nuts and a 1/2" nut driver to tighten the nuts when needed. You'll probably find only one
T-Track bolt per face is frustrating. I recommend adding an additional 5/16" hole & T-Track bolt on each
face after you complete the project. Just pick a location that the nut won't interfere with other parts.
Copyright C

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

All Rights Reserved

Fence Support Blocks & Sliding Fence Plates

Page 14

2 1/2"

The fence supports don't

have to be made from 1"
stock. If you use another
thickness, you'll need to
adjust the vacuum box
dimensions accordingly.

2 1/2"

1 1/2"

1 1/2"

1"

1"

2 1/2"

2 1/2"
Square Fence Support Block

Beveled Fence Support Block

(2 Required)

(2 Required)

Make two sliding faces 12" by 4" from 1"

thick material as shown in Drawing 1.
They need to be 1" thick because the
T-Track slots are 1/2" deep and you need
more than 1/4" thickness for the T-Track
mounting screws. If you don't have a
source for 1" thick stock, you can glue
some 1/4" material to 3/4" material.
Another choice would be to cut your own
T-Track slots using a T-Track slot cutting
bit in your router. Of course, you can
make them without T-Track.

12"
la t
eP

nc
Fe red)
g
i
n
qu
lidi
Re
(2

4"
D

in
raw

g1

3"
1"

The purpose of the T-Track is for

positioning stops along the fence. You can
use clamps for this too, but T-Track is
more convenient. Drawing 2 shows the 3/4"
layout for the T-Track slots.
1 3/4"

in
raw

g2

For the prototype, I used my belt sander to round the

edges of the sliding faces as shown to the left. This helps
keep the workpiece from hanging up on the corners.

Copyright C

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

All Rights Reserved

Vacuum Box & EZ-Mount Clamps

Page 15

3/8"
2 7/8"
6"

1"

ar
Re

6"

3/4"

p
To

2 1/2"
1"
Hole for vacuum hose.

Make the rear and top pieces for the vacuum box as shown. My shop vacuum hose has a 1 1/4" diameter
end so I cut a 1 1/4" hole centered in the vacuum rear piece. The size of the hole depends on you vacuum
hose end.

1/4" hole
(Only 1/2" deep)

5/16" hole
(Through)
1 1/2"
3"

1 1/2"
1"
1 1/4"
EZ-Mount Clamp Riser

EZ-Mount Clamp Block

(2 Required)

(2 Required)

Make the pieces for the EZ-Mount Clamps from 3/4" stock. The Clamp Riser needs to be the same
thickness as your top. It is shown as 1" high because my top was 1" thick. The 5/16" hole in the long
piece is for the 3 1/2" by 5/16" carriage bolt that provides the clamping force. Drill this hole completely
through the workpiece.The 1/4" hole in the small piece is for the alignment dowel pin. This hole is
centered end to end and side to side. Note: This dowel hole is only 1/2" deep.

Copyright C

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

All Rights Reserved

Assemble the Fence (A)

Page 16

n
Fe

nc
Fe

s
Ba
ce

n
Fe

rf
Su
t
a
Fl

e
lat
P
e

te
Pla
e
c

e
ac

Clamp the fence base and stationary fence plates to a flat surface as shown above and secure the base to
the fence plates using 1 1/2" flathead screws from the bottom. The Screw holes should have already
been drilled and counter sunk on the bottom. Clamping the assembly to a flat surface assures the two
stationary fence plates are parallel and in line with each other. This is necessary so the workpiece
makes a smooth transition when sliding along the finished fence.

Attach the supports blocks with 1 1/2" #8 flathead screws from the bottom side of the base and the front
of the stationary fence plates. Position the two middle blocks so the vacuum box back and top fit
properly. Position the beveled support blocks so the are centered over the screw holes.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

All Rights Reserved

Assemble the Fence (B)

Page 17

Attach the vacuum box back.

Apply glue to the mating surfaces and secure the vacuum box back to the rear supports with finishing
nails or screws as you prefer.

Apply glue to the mating surfaces and secure the vacuum box top to the rear supports with finishing
nails or screws as you prefer.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

All Rights Reserved

Assemble the E-Z Mount Clamps

Page 18

Assemble the clamps with 1 1/2" finishing nails

and glue as shown. I recommend predrilling the
holes to prevent splitting. Make sure the dowel pin
hole is on the bottom. Apply a little glue and insert
the 3/4" long dowel pin.
Note: The dowel pin keeps the clamp from
rotating while you tighten the knob.

The picture shows the finished clamp and Knob.

Use a 5/16" in by 3 1/2" carriage bolt. flat washer,
and T-Track knob to provide the clamping force.

The above pictures show the finished router table.

Copyright C

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

All Rights Reserved

Legs - Full Size Pattern - Top Half

Page 19

5 1/2"

2 3/4"

Top
6"

Full Size Pattern

Top Section

Copyright c

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

All Rights Reserved

Legs - Full Size Pattern - Bottom Half

Page 20

Full Size Pattern

6"

Bottom Section

Bottom
2"

5 1/2"

Copyright c

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

All Rights Reserved

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