Lonely Planet Publications

286

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HISTORY

Queensland
Occupying Australias northeastern corner, this vast state is awash with dazzling landscapes,
vibrant cities and 300 days of sunshine a year. Its also home to some of the countrys most
notable highlights, from the golden beaches of the Sunshine Coast and the luminous green
of the Daintree rainforest to the clear blue waters of the Great Barrier Reef.
It hides some of the countrys lesser-known treasures, delivering wow-factor with gusto.
You only have to peel back the postcard to find corners seemingly untouched by other visitors spectacular national parks with tumbling waterfalls, white sandy beaches fringed by
kaleidoscopic coral, vibrant and unique Aboriginal festivals and jaw-dropping sunsets.

For the active traveller there are oodles of opportunities for white-water rafting, scuba
diving, snorkelling, bushwalking, horse riding, surfing, bungee jumping, abseiling The
state is also home to more tours accredited under the national eco certification scheme than
any other, so you can safely explore, rather than exploit, this beautiful state.
HIGHLIGHTS
Scale Brisbanes Story Bridge (p307), one of only three licensed bridge climbs in the world
Set up tent in the jaw-dropping environs of Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park (p420)

in the Gulf Savannah

Chill with a kangaroo or cuddle a koala at the

Aboriginal People
By the turn of the 19th century, the Aboriginal peoples who had survived the bloody
settlement of Queensland had been comprehensively run off their lands, and the white
authorities had set up ever-shrinking reserves
to contain the survivors. A few of these were
run according to well-meaning, if misguided,
missionary ideals, but the majority were striferidden places where people from different
areas and cultures were thrown unhappily
together as virtual prisoners.
It wasnt until the 1980s that control of the
reserves was transferred to their residents and

the reserves became known as communities. However, these freehold grants, known
as Deeds of Grant in Trust, are subject to a
right of access for prospecting, exploration
or mining.
Over the last few years there has been a
tremendous surge in interest in Aboriginal
Australia from local and international visitors, which has led to increased government
funding for Indigenous tourism initiatives.
As such, today there are great opportunities
for contact with Aborigines. In addition to
the beautiful rock-art sites at various locations, you can encounter living Aboriginal
culture at the Yarrabah community south of
Cairns, and the Hopevale community north
of Cooktown. There are Aborigine-led tours
at Mossman Gorge, Malanda Falls and around
Kuranda. The Gab Titui Culture Centre (see
p461) on Thursday Island is a unique development by Torres Straits communities,
and at the Tjapukai Cultural Park (p425) near
Cairns, an award-winning Aboriginal dance
group performs most days for tourists. There
are even opportunities to attend workshops
in Brisbane with Aboriginal artists, and the
annual Dreaming festival, held as part of the
Woodford Folk Festival (p350), is a colourful showcase of Indigenous arts from across
the country.
Perhaps the most exciting event, however,
is the Laura Festival held every second year
in June on the Cape York Peninsula see the
boxed text, p463.

hands-on and fabulously eco-friendly Australia Zoo (p341), home of the late Steve Irwin

QUEENSLAND FACTS

Walk along the North Gorge Headlands

(p323) on North Stradbroke Island and spot

dolphins, manta rays, turtles and whales
swimming below you
Swim under moonlight at Lake Eacham

(p443) near Yungaburra

Pitch a tent in the rainforests of Lamington

Hopevale

Lake Eacham
Boodjamulla
(Lawn Hill)
National Park

National Park (p338) and walk the 21km

Border Track between Queensland and New
South Wales

Whitsunday
Islands

Sail the azure seas around the Whitsunday

Islands (p394), stopping to snorkel off the

Great Barrier Reef
Listen to Nugal-warra elder Willie Gordons

stories at his ancestral rock-art sites near

Hopevale (p457), just outside of Cooktown
TELEPHONE CODE: 07

POPULATION: 4.053 MILLION

Australia
Zoo
Brisbane
Lamington
National
Park

North
Stradbroke
Island

AREA: 1,727,000 SQ KM

Eat Moreton Bay bugs, prawns, mud crabs and barramundi (especially at Lake Tinaroo), Rockhampton steak, mangoes, bananas and macadamia nuts
Drink Pots of XXXX beer, Bundaberg Rum, Granite Belt wines and Mt Tamborine schnapps
Read Stephen Vaggs The Quarter-Life Crisis, John Birminghams He Died with a Felafel in His Hand
and Thea Astleys Drylands
Listen to Regurgitators Mish Mash, Bernard Fannings Tea & Sympathy, The Veronicas The Secret
Life of the Veronicas and Pete Murrays See the Sun
Watch Radiance (1998), Cane Toads (1988), The Phantom (1996), Dead Calm (1989) and Finding
Nemo (2003)
Avoid Surfers Paradise during Schoolies Week, cane toads, sunburn, stingers and crocs
Locals nickname Cane toads, Banana Benders
Swim at Fraser Islands Lakes McKenzie and Wabby (p363), Sunshine Coasts Peregian (p343) and
Noosa (p344) beaches, Great Keppel Island (p373) and along the Great Barrier Reef
Best festivals Biennial Laura Festival (p463) held in June, Woodford Folk Festival (p350) at
the end of December, and Brisbanes Riverfestival and National Festival of Beers (p311) in
mid-September
Tackiest tourist attraction Big Gumboot (p412)

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

Brisbane will delight city slickers with its lively, cosmopolitan atmosphere and, in the
north, Cairns is a travellers mecca. Between the two are strings of towns and islands, each
with its own flavour but all brimming with Queenslander hospitality.

Europeans first arrived in Queensland in the

1600s with Dutch, Portuguese and French
navigators exploring the northeastern region,
and then in 1770 Captain James Cook took
possession of the east coast. By 1825, the area
that is modern-day Brisbanes central business
district (CBD) was established as a penal colony
for the more intractable convicts. Despite fierce
Aboriginal resistance, the area was later settled
(Queenslands early white settlers indulged in
one of the greatest land grabs of all time) and
in 1859 the state became a separate colony independent of New South Wales (NSW). Since
that time, Queensland has experienced dynamic
growth and progress, aided by the discovery of
gold and other minerals in the 1860s and 70s,
and successful sugar-cane production. Today it
is the fastest-growing state in Australia.

Q U E E N S L A N D H i s t o r y 287

ive
r dt R

Karumba

A7

Great Barrier
Reef Marine Park

Wujal Wujal
Daintree National Park
(Cape Tribulation Section)
Mossman
Port Douglas

Betoota

e
Cr

NEW
SOUTH
WALES

Thargomindah

ou
gh

To Dubbo
(400km)

Tieri
Emerald

55
46

Moonie

Goondiwindi

Moonie

To Dubbo
(390km)

49

54 A2

Grafton

Girraween
National
Tenterfield Park

Rainbow Beach

OCEAN

To Coffs
Harbour
(80km)

Surfers Paradise
Coolangatta
Springbrook
National Park

North Stradbroke Island

BRISBANE

Moreton Island
National Park

Maroochydore
Caloundra
Moreton Bay

Noosa Heads

Gympie

Esk
Brisbane
Airport

Ipswich

SOUTH

200 km
120 miles

PACIFIC
National Park
(Cooloola Section)
Maryborough
1 A1

85
Main Range
National Park
Inglewood
Warwick Lamington
National Park
Stanthorpe

Inverell

Tropic of
Capricorn

Bundaberg Fraser
Hervey Island
Childers
Great Sandy
Bay

Yarraman
Dalby

0
0

Town of 1770

Gladstone

Curtis Island

Wondai

Toowoomba

y
Hw

Tara

17

Monto

A3

Biloela

ge

Moree

Mungindi

Surat

Miles

A5

Chinchilla

54 A2

Roma

A4

Moura

39

66

Yeppoon
Great Keppel Island

Shoalwater
Bay Military
Training Area

Percy Islands
Shoalwater
Bay

Rockhampton

1 A1

Gr
eat

Expedition
National
Park

Brampton Island

Mackay
Sarina

A7

55

Mitchell

St George

Hwy

Walgett

Culgoa Flood
Plain National Park

49

Warrego

54 A2

55

A7

Moranbah

Da
w
Carnarvon son
Hw
National Park
y

A4

Gemfields
Region
66

ive
R

Hwy

Balonne Hwy
Cunnamulla

71

Charleville

Bourke

Currawinya Eulo
National Park

Yowah
Opal
Fields

Quilpie

Blackall
La
nd
sb
or

71 A2

Barcaldine Capricorn

Idalia
National
Park

ta
en

Longreach

Clermont

Eungella
National
Park

Ra
ng

Lake
Dalrymple

Whitsunday
Bowen
Airlie Beach Islands
Hamilton Island
Lindeman Island
Proserpine

Ran

To Broken
Hill (290km)

Rd

v
De
Rd

pm
elo

66 A2

Landsborough
Hwy

Ayr
Ravenswood

Mingela

Townsville

SEA

CORAL

vi
ng
di

79

Noccundra

Windorah
Dia
ma
ntin
a
ek

Jundah

Stonehenge

Diamantina Gates
National Park

Bladensburg
National Park

Winton

Moomba

Middleton

Combo
Conservation
Park

ta

en

Innamincka

Birdsville
Developmental
Rd

a
tin
an
iam

Bedourie

83

Julia
Creek

Kynuna

Kennedy
Developmental
Rd

62

McKinlay

A6

62

White
Charters
Mountains
Towers
Porcupine Gorge National
Park
National Park
A6
78
Richmond
Flinders
Hughenden Prairie
Hwy
Wills
Developmental
Rd

pm

SOUTH
AUSTRALIA

Birdsville

Simpson Desert
National Park

Diamantina
Developmental
Rd

Boulia

83

Djarra

ve

66 A2

Lake
66 A2
Julius
Quamby
Camooweal
Caves
Mt Isa Cloncurry
78
National
Park Barkly Hwy

To Three Ways (450km);

Tennant Creek (475km)
Camooweal

Boodjamulla
(Lawn Hill)
National Park

Normanton

Staaten River
National Park

81

Hopevale
Cooktown

Lizard Island

Cape Melville
National Park

Daintree
National Park
(Mossman
Gorge Section)

Laura

Lakefield
National Park

Princess
Charlotte
Bay

Crocodiles inhabit rivers and

lakes in tropical areas;
swimming is not recommended.

Chillagoe
Cairns
Bulleringa
Atherton
National Park
Tableland
Mt Bartle Frere
Babinda
(1657m)
Innisfail
Undara Volcanic
Burke Developmental
De Gu
Ravenshoe Wooroonooran National Park
v
lf
Croydon
National
Park
e
R
Rd (Savannah Way)
oad lopm
Mission Beach
Tully
Mt Surprise
(Sa ent
Dunk Island
v
W
a
Undara Lava
Gregory
ay) anna l
Georgetown 1
h
Tubes
Cardwell
Downs
Forsayth
Wallaman
Hinchinbrook Island
Einasleigh
1
Falls
Bu
Cobbold
The
rde Ingham Paluma Range
Burke & Wills
kin
Gorge
Lynd
National Park
Roadhouse
83
1 A1 Magnetic Island
63

Burketown

hh a

Th
om
so
n

Leic

r
ve
Ri

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Deve

er

ers

y
Hw

R iv

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Flin

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Ri

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Gr

Rd

Co
op
ers

River

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di
vi Gre
i
D

al
ent
pm
elo
Dev

Di

Bu
llo
o

Doomadgee

Sweers
Island

ve

Ri

ABORIGINAL
LAND

Cape York Peninsula

Mungkan Kandju
National Park

Lockhart River

Iron Range
National Park

Jardine River
National Park

Horn Island
Cape York

ef

go

Hell's Gate

Kowanyama

Pormpuraaw

Aurukun

Albatross
Bay

Weipa

Mapoon

Bamaga

Thursday Island

QUEENSLAND

Re

r re

lonelyplanet.com

QUEENSLAND

Mornington
Island

Gulf of
Carpentaria

QUEENSLAND

itc

t
rea

NORTHERN TERRITORY

M
ll
he

Ba

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Bruc y
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Wa

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Belyando
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288 Q U E E N S L A N D
Q U E E N S L A N D 289

290 Q U E E N S L A N D G e o g r a p h y & C l i m a t e

Queensland is dominated by the coast, and

its no surprise that most of the settlements
and tourist attractions are concentrated along
the narrow coastal strip. The coast has some
amazing natural features such as the Great
Barrier Reef, verdant rainforests and dramatic
mountain ranges.
Inland is the Great Dividing Range, which
comes close to the coast of Queensland before
slicing its way down into NSW and Victoria,
and the tablelands fertile areas of flat agricultural land that run to the west. Finally,
theres the barren outback, which fades into
the Northern Territory (NT).
In the far northern Gulf Country and Cape
York Peninsula there are huge empty regions
cut by countless dry riverbeds, which can
become swollen torrents in the wet season.
During this time, the network of waterways
sometimes brings road transport to a complete halt.
Queensland seasons are more a case of hot
and wet or cool and dry than of summer and
winter. November/December to April/May
is the wetter, hotter half of the year, while
the real Wet, particularly affecting northern
coastal areas, is January to March. This is also
the season for tropical cyclones and, if one
hits, the Bruce Hwy can be blocked by the
ensuing floods (see the boxed text, p417).
In the south, Brisbane and Rockhampton
get about 450mm of rain from January to

March, and temperatures in Brisbane rarely

drop below 20C. Queensland doesnt really
experience cold weather, except inland or
upland at night from about May to September.
Inland, of course, theres also a lot less rain
than near the coast.

INFORMATION
There are official tourist offices in almost every
city and town in Queensland so youre never
far from a helping hand. Tourism Queensland
(%13 88 33; www.tq.com.au) is the government-run
body responsible for promoting Queensland
interstate and overseas. Its Queensland Travel
(%13 88 33; www.queenslandtravel.com) offices are located in state capitals and act as booking offices for accommodation, tours and holidays.
Tourism Queensland (www.accessiblequeensland.com) is a
decent source of information for visitors with
disabilities. Queensland Holidays (www.queensland
holidays.com.au) is aimed solely at tourists and a
great resource for planning your trip.
Families with young children can check
out the Bub Hub (www.bubhub.com.au) website,
which lists everything from clinic contacts
and locations to prenatal care to activities for
newborns and toddlers, or call the Child Care
Information Service (%1800 637 711, 3224 4225).
For travelling safe in Queensland check
out www.police.qld.gov.au/toursafe. For those
travellers heading up to Far North Queensland
www.safetraveltnq.com.au is helpful if youre
planning on exploring the area by 4WD.

SOUTH SEA ISLANDER AUSTRALIANS

Another people that played an important, if not tragic, part in shaping Queenslands history are
the South Sea Islander Australians who were brought over between 1863 and 1904 to provide
cheap labour on the sugar-cane plantations. Many of them were kidnapped, or blackbirded, from
their islands and were forced to work in virtual slave-like conditions once they arrived.
In many ways our grandfathers were the foundation of the sugar-cane industry, says John
Pene-Fonmosa whose grandfather was blackbirded after leaving his island home of Rotunma for
Fiji. They cleared the fields, cut the cane and crushed it. They were the pillars of the industry.
These people were termed kanakas, the Polynesian word for man, which took on derogatory
connotations when hijacked by Europeans. In total, an estimated 60,000 islanders were shipped
to Australia, but as unions began to call for white-only labour, many were sent home.
Of course, some got a taste for the Western lifestyle and didnt want to leave so they ran
away, says John, who is from the Bunjalong tribal area, south of Brisbane, where most of the
community are a mix of the Bunjalong Aboriginal Nation and the South Sea Islands. And for
some, if the captain of the ship hadnt properly logged where each individual was from, they
couldnt even get home.
Many who remained experienced unemployment, racism and government neglect, and it wasnt
until 1994 that the Federal Government recognised Australian South Sea Islanders as a distinct
cultural group. It took another five years for the Queensland government to do the same.

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For comprehensive information about the

state, its worth picking up a copy of Lonely
Planets Queensland & the Great Barrier Reef
guidebook.
Some other useful contacts are the Queensland Parks & Wildlife Service (QPWS; %13 13 04; www
.epa.qld.gov.au) and Royal Automobile Club of Queensland (RACQ; %13 19 05; www.racq.com.au).

NATIONAL PARKS
There are some 220 national parks and state
forests dotted around Queensland, and while
some comprise only a single hill or lake, others are major wilderness areas. Many islands,
expanses of water and stretches of coast are
national parks.
Three of the most spectacular national parks
inland are: Lamington (p337), on the forested
rim of an ancient volcano on the NSW border; Carnarvon (p375), with its 30km gorge
southwest of Rockhampton; and, near Mackay,
rainforested Eungella (p387) swarms with
wildlife.
On the coast, the Great Sandy National
Park (p350) is a mesmerising tangle of mangroves, rivers and forest; and, of course, theres
the jewel in Queenslands crown the Great
Barrier Reef Marine Park (see the boxed text,
p390).
The Queensland Parks & Wildlife Service (QPWS;
%13 13 04; www.epa.qld.gov.au) publishes a comprehensive free guide, Queenslands Parks &
Forests, which has details on more than 160 of
the parks. And, if youre keen to do more than
just take photographs, the QPWS also runs
volunteer programs in many of the national
parks; check its website for details.

ACTIVITIES

Extreme Sports
Queensland has its fair share of activities to satisfy thrill-seekers. Bungee jumping and similar
adrenaline-charged rides can be found at major
tourist stops, such as Surfers Paradise, Airlie
Beach and Cairns. If you need something a
tad more heart-stopping, then there are ample
opportunities for parachuting and skydiving.
Two of the best spots to jump out of a plane are
Caloundra (p340) and Mission Beach (p413).

Bushwalking
The bigger national parks have kilometres
of marked walking tracks and there are excellent bushwalking opportunities in many
parts of the state and national parks, and state

Q U E E N S L A N D N a t i o n a l Pa r k s 291

forests year-round. Among the favourites

are: Lamington (p337); Carnarvon (p375);
Hinchinbrook Islands Thorsborne Trail
(p411); Wooroonooran (p416), which contains Queenslands highest peak, Mt Bartle
Frere (1657m); and the traditional walking
trails of the Jirrbal and Ma:mu Aboriginal
people in the Misty Mountain Trails.
The Queensland government has also developed the Great Walks of Queensland: six
tracks designed to allow walkers to experience
rainforests and bushlands without disturbing
the ecosystem. They include the Whitsundays,
Sunshine Coast Hinterland, Mackay Highlands, Fraser Island, Gold Coast Hinterland
and the Wet Tropics (tropical North Queensland). Contact QPWS (%13 13 04; www.epa.qld.gov
.au) for more information. Queensland Walks
(www.queenslandwalks.com.au) is a helpful website
set up by Tourism Queensland.
There are bushwalking clubs around the
state and Lonely Planets Walking in Australia includes four long-distance walks in
Queensland, which range from two to five
days in length.

Camping
There are some stunning spots to pitch a
tent in Queensland and many of the state
and national parks have camping grounds
with toilets, showers and sometimes even an
electric barbecue.
Among those recommended are the QPWS
camping ground on Snapper Island (p452), the
shaded beach sites on Noah Beach (p454), the
natural setting of Quamby Falls (p338), and
Binna Burra Campsite (p338), which has permanent safari-style tents within a rainforest
setting.
There are often privately run camping
grounds, motels and lodges on the park
fringes.
In order to camp anywhere in a national
park you will need a permit. You can selfregister at a handful of sites, but for the vast
majority you will need to purchase a permit in
advance, either by calling QPWS or booking
online. Camping in national parks and state
forests costs $4.50/18 per person/family per
night. Popular parks fill up at holiday times,
so it pays to book well in advance.
For avid campers, the QPWS publishes a
handy book, Camping in Queensland ($12.95),
which features more than 280 camping
grounds.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

GEOGRAPHY & CLIMATE

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292 Q U E E N S L A N D A c t i v i t i e s

The Queensland coast is an Aladdins cave

of spectacular dive sites and there are dozens
of operators vying to teach you or provide
you with the ultimate dive safari. Learning
here is fairly inexpensive a four- or five-day
PADI (Professional Association of Diving
Instructors) course costs anything from $300
to $700 and you usually do a good part of
your learning in the warm waters of the Great
Barrier Reef itself.
Almost every major town along the coast
has one or more dive schools (the three most
popular places are Airlie Beach, Cairns and
Townsville), but standards vary from place to
place and course to course. Good instructors
move around from company to company, so
ask around to see which company is currently
well regarded.
When choosing a course, look at how much
of your open-water experience will be out
on the reef. Many budget courses only offer
shore dives, which are frequently less interesting, whereas the more expensive options
can include two days aboard a boat and reef
dives. Normally you have to show you can
tread water for 10 minutes and swim 200m
before you can start a course. Most schools
require a medical, which usually costs extra
(around $50).
While school standards are generally high,
each year a number of newly certified divers
are stricken with the bends and end up in
the decompression chamber in Townsville.
This potentially fatal condition is caused by
bubbles of nitrogen that form in the blood

when divers ascend too quickly to the surface always ascend slowly and, on dives
over 9m in depth, take a rest stop en route
to the surface.
For divers, trips and equipment hire are
available just about everywhere. Youll need
evidence of your qualifications, and some
places may also ask to see your diving log
book. You can snorkel just about everywhere,
too. There are coral reefs off some mainland
beaches and around several of the islands,
and many day trips out to the Great Barrier
Reef provide snorkelling gear free.
During the Wet (usually January to March),
floods can wash a lot of mud out into the
ocean, and visibility for divers and snorkellers
is sometimes affected.
Lonely Planets Diving & Snorkelling
Australias Great Barrier Reef is an excellent
guide to all the dives available on the reef.

Sailing & Fishing

Sailing enthusiasts will find plenty of places
with boats and/or sailboards for hire, both
along the coast and inland. Manly (near
Brisbane), Airlie Beach and the Whitsunday
Islands are probably the biggest centres and
you can indulge in almost any type of boating or sailing. The Great Barrier Reef has
traditionally been a popular fishing ground,
but a recent overhaul of the zoning laws has
tightened the area that can be fished. For
comprehensive information on where and
when you can fish, contact the Great Barrier
Reef Marine Park Authority (%4750 0700; www
.gbrmpa.gov.au), based at Reef HQ (p399) in

DIVING IN QUEENSLAND FIVE OF THE BEST

Green Island (p435) The entirety of Green Island is national park, and made up of dense

rainforest. The reefs surrounding it are considered to be among the most beautiful off any
island, and the diving and snorkelling are quite spectacular.
Heron Island (p368) This exclusive and tranquil coral cay sits amid a huge spread of reef.

You can step straight off the beach and join a crowd of colourful fish here.
Lady Elliot Island (p367) The most southerly of the Great Barrier Reef islands, and also a coral

cay. Its home to 19 highly regarded dive sites, so its hard to know where to begin.
Lizard Island (p459) Remote and rugged, Lizard Island boasts what are arguably Australias

best-known dive sites Cod Hole, famous for its resident giant and docile potato cod, and
Pixie Bommie.
HMAS Brisbane (p343) This recently sunk, old Australian warship is the hottest new dive spot

in Queensland. Easily accessible off the Sunshine Coast, it has a flourishing artificial reef
teeming with marine life.

lonelyplanet.com

Townsville. The Whitsundays, with their

plentiful bays and relatively calm waters,
are particularly popular for sailing; day trips
start at $80 and multiple-day trips from $350.
Bareboat charters (sailing yourself) are also
possible see the boxed text, p394, for more
information.
Fishing is one of Queenslands most popular sports and you can hire fishing gear and/or
boats in many places. Karumba, Cooktown
and North Stradbroke Island are some good
spots.

Surfing
There are some fantastic breaks along Queenslands southeastern coast, most notably at
Coolangatta (p336), Burleigh Heads (p335),
Surfers Paradise (p330), Noosa (p344) and
Town of 1770 (p369). Surf shops in these areas
generally offer board hire, or you can buy
cheap secondhands. If youve never hit the
surf before, its a good idea to have a lesson
or two.

Swimming
North of Fraser Island the beaches are sheltered by the Great Barrier Reef, so theyre
great for swimming, and the clear, sheltered
waters are justly deserving of their reputation. There is also a fantastic abundance of
good freshwater swimming spots around
the state. Box jellyfish are a serious problem
from Rockhampton north between October and April; see the boxed text, p372, for
more information. Be careful of estuarine
crocs swimming in the coastal waters north
of Rockhampton and their freshwater cousins living in the rivers and swamps of Cape
Tribulation.

White-Water Rafting & Canoeing

The Tully and North Johnstone Rivers between Townsville and Cairns are the big ones
for white-water rafting. You can do day trips
for around $150.
Sea-kayaking is also a popular option, with
various trips running from Cairns, Mission
Beach, Cape Tribulation, Noosa and Maroochydore.
Coastal Queensland is full of waterways
and lakes you can explore, so theres never a
shortage of canoeing territory. You can rent
canoes or join canoe tours in several places
including Noosa, Surfers Paradise, Townsville
and Cairns.

Q U E E N S L A N D T o u r s 293

TOURS
Queensland has more tours and activities accredited by the national eco-certification scheme
(www.ecotourism.org.au) than any other state and
many are listed throughout this chapter.
However, many nonaccredited tour operators have jumped on the eco bandwagon of
late, and theyre not always what they seem.
Its worth asking what their eco-policies are
before signing up.
There are all sorts of tours offered around
Queensland, although most of them concentrate on a small area. Many are connected
with a particular activity (eg bushwalking or
horse riding) or area (eg 4WD tours to Cape
York). There are also thousands of brochures
in hostels, hotels and tourist information offices. Although choosing one can often be a
hit-and-miss affair, youll find some of the
best the state has to offer mentioned throughout the chapter.
Good online resources for tours include
www.queenslandholidays.com.au and www
.queenslandtravel.com.

GETTING THERE & AROUND

Most travellers will arrive in Queensland from
NSW, and while your car or bus can legally
be inspected crossing the border, it hardly
ever happens. You probably wont even notice that youve passed from one state to the
other. Brisbane (p320) is the main port of call
for flights into Queensland and is the main
international airport for the state, but Cairns
and the Gold Coast airports also receive international flights. For more information, see
the Transport chapter (p1020).

Air
The three national carriers, Qantas Airways
(%13 13 13; www.qantas.com.au), Jetstar (%13 15 38;
www.jetstar.com.au) and Virgin Blue (%13 67 89; www
.virginblue.com.au), fly to Queenslands major cities. There are also smaller airlines, including
charter flights, operating up and down the
coast, across the Cape York Peninsula and
into the outback.
Alliance Airlines (%3212 1212; www.allianceairlines
.com.au) Charter flights between Brisbane, Mt Isa,
Townsville and Cairns.
Macair (%13 13 13; www.macair.com.au) The major
outback carrier.
Sunshine Express (%13 13 13; www.sunshineexpress
.com.au) Charter flights from Brisbane to the Sunshine
Coast, Maryborough and Hervey Bay.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

Diving & Snorkelling

lonelyplanet.com

294 Q U E E N S L A N D G e t t i n g T h e re & A r o u n d

lonelyplanet.com

BRISBANE

RIBBIT
Queenslanders have several nicknames, but perhaps the most curious one is cane toad, after
the amphibious critters that were introduced to Australia in 1935 in an attempt to control the
native cane beetle. These creatures are not a pretty sight: dry and warty skin, heavy-ridged
eyes and poisonous glands across their backs would make any girl looking for her prince run a
mile. But fairytales aside, the cane toads have proved to be absolutely useless; they ignored the
pesky cane grub and instead focused on reproducing. From an original batch of just 101 toads,
there are now over 200 million of these long-legged creatures hopping around Australia an
invasion that has seen the populations of native snakes and goanna lizards decline. Indeed, the
problem has got so bad that a millionaire pub owner has introduced a beer-for-a-bag-of-toads
bounty thats even got the support of the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals
(RSPCA). But it seems that not everyone hates them; Queenslands representative rugby league
team has chosen the cane toad as their unofficial mascot and they have even been listed by
the National Trust of Queensland as a state icon. Warts and all.

In the past travellers have managed to travel

along the coast or even over to Papua New
Guinea or Darwin by crewing on the numerous yachts and cruisers that sail Queensland
waters. Its still possible to do, but its not
easy. Ask at harbours, marinas or sailing
clubs. Manly (near Brisbane), Airlie Beach,
Townsville and Cairns are good places to
try. Youll normally have to contribute some
money for your passage.

Bus
Greyhound Australia (%13 14 99; www.greyhound
.com.au), the largest bus company in Australia,
offers comprehensive coverage of Queensland
and all the major tourist destinations, as well
as excellent interstate connections.
The busiest route is up the coast on the
Bruce Hwy from Brisbane to Cairns there
are various passes that cover this route, allowing multiple stops along all or part of the
coast. Most passes involve interstate travel
and attract a 10% discount for members of
YHA, VIP, Nomads and other approved organisations, as well as card-carrying seniors/
pensioners. Useful passes for Queensland
include the Mini Travellers Pass, which
gives you 45 days to travel from Sydney to
Cairns for $327. The Central Coaster pass
is valid for 90 days and allows you to travel
between Sydney and Brisbane for $173 and
the Queenslander pass allows travel between Brisbane and Cairns via the Inland Rd
($398, valid for 183 days). There are also several passes that include outback destinations
en route to the NT. Check the Greyhound

Australia website for more details. See the

Transport chapter (p1027) for more information on interstate bus passes.
Premier Motor Service (%13 34 10; www.premierms
.com.au) also covers the route between Sydney, Brisbane and Cairns, with fewer services
than Greyhound, but often slightly cheaper
fares.

Car
The roads in Queensland are in good condition, particularly along the coast and main
thoroughfares in the hinterland and outback.
However, they can often turn into badly
maintained sealed roads or dirt tracks in the
more remote areas of the state. Note that
driving in Queensland is a leisurely affair
with locals sometimes not even making the
speed limit.
For car hire information see individual
destinations.

Train
Queensland Rail (%13 22 32, 1300 131 722; www
.traveltrain.com.au) operates seven services in total
throughout Queensland. The main railway
line is the Brisbane to Cairns run, which is
serviced by the Tilt Train, a high-speed connection that operates three times weekly,
and the Sunlander, a more leisurely option
with four services weekly. There are also inland services from Brisbane to Charleville,
Brisbane to Longreach and Charleville, and
from Townsville to Mt Isa, plus a more regular Tilt Train service between Brisbane and
Rockhampton. More detail is listed under the
relevant destinations.

%07 / pop 1.8 million

It may be Australias third-largest city, but for

the longest time Brisbane was seen as something of a poor cousin to Sydney and Melbourne: a sleepy country town hiding behind
a big city faade. In recent years, however,
Brisbane has stirred from its slumber and is
casually emerging as one of the most desirable
places to live in Australia with an estimated
1000 people packing their bags and moving
up here every week.
Of course locals have always known that
Brissie offers the perfect lifestyle and it doesnt
take visitors long to understand why. Despite
the transformation into a sleek, cosmopolitan
city complete with world-class art galleries, a
booming live music scene and a fabulous caf
culture, Brisbane still retains the laid-back,
easy attitude of a small community.
No doubt the lazy subtropical climate, gently curving Brisbane River and rich cultural
flavours of its many neighbourhoods also have
something to do with its appeal. But mostly
people love Brisbane because its a ritzy city
with a down-to-earth attitude and home to
some of the friendliest locals in Oz.

HISTORY
The first settlement here was established at
Redcliffe on Moreton Bay in 1824 a penal
colony for difficult convicts from the Botany
Bay colony in NSW. After struggling with
inadequate water supplies and hostile Aboriginal groups, the colony was relocated to safer
territory on the banks of the Brisbane River,
before the whole colony idea was abandoned
in 1839.
Moreton Bay was thrown open to free
settlers in 1842, an action that marked the
beginning of Brisbanes rise to prominence
and the beginning of the end for the regions
Aboriginal peoples.

ORIENTATION
Brisbanes city centre or CBD is bound by
a U-shaped loop of the Brisbane River. The
action is centred on pedestrianised Queen St
Mall, which runs down to the former Treasury
Building (now a casino) and Victoria Bridge
to South Bank.
Across Victoria Bridge is South Brisbane
and the South Bank Parklands. Further south

B R I S B A N E H i s t o r y 295

is the West End. Ann St runs northeast of the

CBD into hip Fortitude Valley, and the Story
Bridge connects the Valley with Kangaroo
Point.
The Roma St Transit Centre, where youll
arrive if youre coming by bus, train or airport
shuttle, is on Roma St, about 500m west of
the CBD.
Brisbane airport is about 15km northeast
of the city. There are shuttles to and from the
city (see p322).

Maps
You can pick up a free map with detail of the
CBD from one of the visitors centres, but for
more comprehensive city coverage get a copy
of Brisbane Compact Map ($6.95) or Brisbane
& Region ($7.95), both by Hema Maps. Other
good options include Brisbane Suburban Map
by UBD ($7.95) and Gregorys Brisbane Street
Directory ($29.95).
The definitive guide to Brisbanes streets
is UBDs Brisbane Street Directory (known
locally as Refidex; $34.95), which includes
maps of the Gold and Sunshine Coasts.

INFORMATION
Bookshops

Archives Fine Books (Map pp300-1; %3221 0491; 38

& 40 Charlotte St, Brisbane) Houses a reputed one million
secondhand books.
Avid Bookshop & Caf (Map pp298-9; %3846 3422;
193 Boundary St, West End) Vibrant store specialising in
quality fiction and non-fiction.
Borders Bookstore (Map pp300-1; %3210 1220; 162
Albert St, Brisbane) Sizable branch of this reliable chain.
Folio Books (Map pp300-1; %3221 1368; www
.foliobooks.com.au; 80 Albert St, Brisbane) Well-stocked
smaller bookshop.
World Wide Maps & Guides (Map pp300-1; %3221
4330; Shop 30, Anzac Square Arcade, 267 Edward St,
Brisbane) Comprehensive range of travel guides and maps.

Emergency
Ambulance (%000)
Fire (%000)
Lifeline (%13 11 14)
Police (%000) city centre (Map pp300-1; %3258
2582; 46 Charlotte St); Fortitude Valley (Map pp298-9;
%3131 1055; cnr Brookes & Wickham Sts); headquarters
(Map pp300-1; %3364 6464; 200 Roma St)
RACQ (%13 19 05) city centre (Map pp300-1; %3872
8465; GPO Bldg, 261-285 Queen St); Fortitude Valley (Map
pp300-1; %3872 8429; 300 St Pauls Tce) Roadside
service.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

Boat

lonelyplanet.com

0
0

Paddington

Rd

Vulture

on

ilt

West End

41

Carina

Rd

University of
Queensland

ill

gg

Mo

Greenslopes

St Lucia
Golf Links

Kenmore

10

wi

Tarragindi

Fwy

20

Evans

Griffith
University

13

Beaud

igh

Rd

To Beaudesert
(52km)

6
Gowan Rd

Pinelands Rd

Learoyd Rd

nle

St

Rd

EATING
(pp31416)
Breakfast Creek Hotel.......................10 C2
TRANSPORT
(pp3203)
Ace Rental Cars................................11 C2

Bee

esert

SLEEPING
(pp31214)
Newmarket Gardens Caravan Park.....8 B2
Ridge Haven B&B...............................9 C4

95

ANZ/Queen
Elizabeth II
Kessels Rd Stadium
To Daisy Hill Koala Centre (12km);
Carlton & United Brewhouse
(27km); Gold Coast (65km)
McCullough
Padstow Rd
St
Mains Rd

Archerfield
Aerodrome

Bradman

w
hM

Mount
Gravatt

Mt Gravatt
Recreation
Reserve

Nathan

Rd

Salisbury

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

(pp3038)
Brisbane Botanic Gardens...................1 A3
Chermside Aquatic Centre..................2 C1
JC Slaughter Falls...............................3 A3
Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary.................4 A5
Mt Coot-tha Reserve..........................5 A3
Newstead House................................6 C2
Sir Thomas Brisbane Planetarium........7 A3

Toohey Forest
Park

To Ipswich (25km);
Warwick (143km)

Mt Gravatt
(210m)

ast

15

ic

Rd

Sherwood

Ipsw

Pine Mountain
Reserve

ga

Indooroopilly
Golf Club

Hw

To Cleveland
(18km)

95

Rd

Indooroopilly

22

Old

Rd

(Continued on page 303)

Camp
Hill

Boundary

33

nd

ela

ev
Cl

Rd

Coorparoo

der

.statravel.com; Shop G11, Queen Adelaide Bldg, 59

Adelaide St, Brisbane)
Trailfinders (Map pp300-1; %1300 780 212, 3229
0887; www.trailfinders.com.au; 101 Adelaide St, Brisbane)
YHA Membership & Travel office (Map pp300-1;
%3236 1680; 450 George St, Brisbane) Tours, YHA
membership and YHA hostel bookings.

20

East
Brisbane

10

Rd

River

St

Toowong

Anzac
Park

Mt Coot-tha
(244m)

b an e

Norman
Park

23

15

Morningside

City

Fw
y

5
Mt Coot-tha
Reserve

24

New
Farm

South
Brisbane

33

Balmoral

Fortitude
Valley

Spring
Hill

32

Auchenflower

STA Travel (Map pp300-1; %3221 3722; www

River

To Gold
Coast
(70km)

15

Travel Agencies

Creek Rd

Rd

Blun

(%1800 010 120; h24hr)

Royal Brisbane Hospital (Map pp298-9; %3636
8111; cnr Butterfield St & Bowen Bridge Rd, Herston;
h24hr switchboard & casualty ward)
Travel Clinic (Map pp300-1; %3211 3611, after hours
0412 452 400; 1st fl, 245 Albert St, Brisbane; h7.30am7pm Mon-Thu, 7.30am-6pm Fri, 8.30am-5pm Sat,
9.30am-5pm Sun)
Travellers Medical & Vaccination Centre (TMVC;
Map pp300-1; %3221 9066; 5th fl, 247 Adelaide St,
Brisbane; h8am-5pm Mon & Fri, 8am-7pm Tue, 8am9pm Wed, 8am-4.30pm Thu, 8.30am-2pm Sat) Vaccinations and medical advice for travellers.

Brisbane

th E

Queensland Statewide Sexual Assault Helpline

Bulimba

Herston

77

Waterworks
To Brisbane Forest
Park (1.5km)

Br i s

Gateway
Toll Bridge

Sou

%3837 5611; 1st fl, 270 Roma St, Brisbane; h9am4.30pm Mon, Tue & Fri, 8.30am-noon Wed, 10am-4.30pm
Thu) Walk-in clinic.
Day & Night Pharmacy (Map pp300-1; %3221 4585;
Queen St Mall, 141 Queen St, Brisbane; h7am-9pm MonThu, 7am-9.30pm Fri, 8am-9pm Sat, 8.30am-5.30pm Sun)

Bretts
Wharf

25

Dr

Lo

Brisbane Sexual Health Clinic (Map pp298-9;

ay

11 10

Ips

Medical Services

Newmarket

ith

Sm

Hamilton rd
o
gsf
Kin

See Brisbane Inner Suburbs Map (pp2989)

Western

Available from the visitor information centre; good for

cultural events.
Time Off (www.timeoff.com.au) Free weekly mag listing
Brisbanes gigs.

Doomben
Eagle Farm Racecourse
Racecourse

Breakfast
Creek

Lutwyche Rd

Enoggera Military
Camp

This Week in Brisbane & South-East Queensland

te

Rd

Centenar

with music news, tour and gig guide.

1; %3006 6200; cnr Albert & Queen Sts, Brisbane;

h9am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri, to 5pm Sat,
9.30am-4.30pm Sun) Great one-stop information counter
for all the things youll need to know about Brisbane.
Brisbane Visitors Accommodation Service (Map
pp300-1; %3236 2020; 3rd fl, Roma St Transit Centre,
Roma St, Brisbane; h7am-6.30pm) Privately run outfit
specialising in backpacker travel, tours and accommodation in much of Queensland.
Naturally Queensland (Map pp300-1; %3227 8185;
www.epa.qld.gov.au; 160 Ann St, Brisbane; h8.30am5pm Mon-Fri) The Environment Protection Agencys (EPA)
information centre provides maps, brochures and camping
permits for Queenslands national parks and state forests.
South Bank visitor information centre (Map
pp300-1; %3867 2051; Stanley Street Plaza, South
Bank Parklands; h9am-5pm) Information on South
Bank activities and the place to buy tickets for major
entertainment events.

Brisbane
Airport

M1

Albion

Centenary Hwy

QUEENSLAND

ing fashion, art and culture, dining and more.

Rave (www.ravemag.com.au) Weekly street magazine

Dr

wy
M

Brisbane visitor information centre (Map pp300-

Airport

ay

Tourist Information

Brisbane Magazine Monthly glossy magazine explor-

Ga

Milton

Media

Toombul

tew

Australia Post (%13 13 18) GPO (Map pp300-1; 261

Queen St, Brisbane; h7am-6pm Mon-Fri); Wintergarden Centre (Map pp300-1; Post Shop, 2nd fl, Wintergarden Centre, Queen St Mall, Brisbane; h9am-5pm
Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)

Ga

Post

ford

22

Kalinga

Mitchelton

Rd

www.brisbane247.com Comprehensive up-to-theminute entertainment guide.

www.brisbane-australia.com General visitor
information.
www.brisbane.citysearch.com.au Good for the latest
information on dining, drinking and dancing venues.
www.ourbrisbane.com Extensive online city guide.

Sam

Nundah

27

Stafford Rd

Settlement

Internet Resources

Brisbane) Located within the Westpac bank.

Interforex Brisbane (Map pp300-1; %1800 501 020,
3221 3562; Shop 255, Wintergarden Centre, Queen St
Mall, Brisbane)
Travelex city centre (Map pp300-1; %3221 9422; Bowman
House, 276 Edward St, Brisbane); city centre (Map pp300-1;
%3210 6325; Shop 149F, Queen St Mall, Brisbane)

Stafford
Heights

29

To Bruce Hwy (15km);

Alma Park Zoo (22km);
Sunshine Coast (90km);
Nambour (100km);
Gympie (160km)

Rode Rd

40

Wardell St

290 Edward St; h8am-midnight); Fortitude Valley (Map

pp300-1; %3666 0800; 312 Brunswick St; h8ammidnight) Plenty of terminals and cheap-call phone
booths.
Internet City (Map pp300-1; %3003 1221; Level 4, 132
Albert St; h24hr) Cheap broadband access.

Everton
Hills

Sandgate Rd

There are foreign-exchange bureaus in the

domestic and international terminals at Brisbane airport, as well as ATMs that take most
international credit cards. Most banks have
exchange bureaus and ATMs.
Amex (Map pp300-1; %1300 139 060; 260 Queen St,

Northgate

Rd

Internet cafs are a dime a dozen in Brisbane

and most backpacker hostels offer internet
access. Rates generally range from $4 to $6
per hour.
Global Gossip city centre (Map pp300-1; %3229 4033;

Hamilton Rd

ch

Money

Gympie Rd

Internet Access

Chermside

Chermside
West

297

2 km
1 mile

BRISBANE

Fairfield

lonelyplanet.com

Webster Rd

296 B R I S B A N E I n f o r m a t i o n

CTRY

0
0

BRISBANE INNER SUBURBS

298
CITY

CTRY

CITY

1 km

299

0.5 miles

Breakfast Creek Rd

St
a r kwell

n St

Stratto

St

St

ha
m

W
i ck

An
n

St

Ja
St

St

Ke
nt

ce

St
ne

St

An
ni
e

St

Br
ow

er

St

er
th
yr

Rd

Vi
lli

ey
Sy
dn

Petrie Tce

ra

St
Ba
rk
er

Hale S
t

Te
r

35

Rd

A nnerley Rd

41

Stanley
St

Princess
Main St

en
22

Fwy
ast
th E
Sou

ph

Ste

D ornoch T
ce

18

15

St

Vulture
St
44
Wooloongabba

Latrob
e St

Vulture St

23

Rd
East
Brisbane

Rd

Bound
ary St

Captain
Cook
Bridge

Rd

29

Mowbray
Park

Dr

nu m
Wyn

Rd

Mowbray
Park

Welling
to n

ive
r
eR
an
isb
de

St

St

y
pw

St

li a
rde
Co

Vulture
St

Highgate
Hill

Ca
City

Av
e

Lytton

Goodwill
Bridge

Vulture
St

Brighto
n

to
n

Kangaroo
Point

ale
ri v
Me

Merthyr
Park

Sydney St
Sh
af
s

South
Bank

South
Brisbane

19

Hardgra
ve

St

43

St

Br

ng
to

New Farm
Park

lade
Ox

Ex

St

Dv
e

La m

St

New
Farm

ay

St

ely
Riv
ers
i

er

34

St

City
Botanic
Gardens

ide
ers
Riv rr
Fe

St

ity

rne

C
er

u
lbo
Me

Musgrave
Park

14

41

M or

ice

South
Brisbane

40
33

West
End

St

ick

Tc
e

Inn

26
St
24
25

Rd

Skinner

en

Al

ey
Gr

as

St

Davies
49 Park

28

St

Hawthorne

New Farm Park

Ch

e
gu
ta
on
M

Bo

ns
w

St

Victoria
Bridge

lis
ol
M

Auchenflower

Br
u

e
Dv

ne

th
be
za

13

y
y Ferr

de

10

Ja

Eli

Lindsay

St

de
gP

St

ge
or
Ge

Rd

Ca

rsi
ve
Ri

St

36

23

St

r Cit

Park

10

ty

e
id
ela

St

Rd

Dr

Ci

de

lai

e
Ad

33

n
tio
na

Ad

Rom
a St

Merivale
Bridge

ro
Co

L an

William
Jolly
Bridge

21

Milton

Central
Station

d
ar

na

Rd

St

es

37

Bradfield Hwy

U p per Roma
15
16 Quay St

Hawthorne

Story
Bridge

St

w
Ed

o
ro
Ba
ton
Mil

n
An

Roma St

32

Roma Street
Parkland

38

Milton

Rd
Baroona

St

Riv

46

Tce

St

ne

Tce

Boundar
y

Oxford

sba

ler

Cax
ton
St

10

am

Inne

ss
Heu

Castlema
ine St

Gi
ve

Tce

Ellena S
t

30

42
Petrie
Terrace
Cricket
St
39
11 12

W
ick
h

Teneriffe
Park

20

Chinatown

Bri

St

Rd

ial R
d

St
Pa
u

Tce
or y

Bulimba

Ha
rc
ou
r

31

t
tess S
Coun

17
Fernber
g

Teneriffe
merc

St

Fortitude
Valley

Tc
e

Rd

31

hrie
Gut

Brunswick St

Paddington

n T
ce
27

Newstead

Com

Ch
es
te
r

ls

48
3

Spring
Hill

Gi
ve

H
EATING
(pp31416)
Ben's Vietnamese & Chinese
Restaurant............................ 22 E6
Caxton Hotel..........................(see 38)
Continental Caf...................... 23 F3
Gunshop Caf......................... 24 C5
Happy Days............................. 25 C5
Jazzy Cat Caf......................... 26 C5
Bulimba
Kookaburra Caf...................... 27 B3
Little Larder.............................. 28 F4
Mecca Bah..............................(see 48)
Teneriffe
Mondo Organics...................... 29 B6
Paddo Tavern........................... 30 B3
Pandemonium Caf.................. 31 B3
Sassafras.................................. 32 A3
Three Monkeys Coffee House...(see 26)
Tukka...................................... 33 C5
Vespa Pizza............................. 34 G3
Watt........................................ 35 H4
Wok On Inn............................. 36 F3
rie St
cqua
Ma

Enogge
ra

os
tin
47

t
s S

TceC

77

Gr e g

Elizabet St
h

ry

25

See Central Brisbane Map (p3001)

32

o
reg

e
Brook

Victoria
Park Golf
Course

Latrobe Tce

10

ty
Ci

ia St
dr
an

Rd

gra
ve

RNA Showgrounds

St

e
Grov

us

Bowen
Hills

ex
Al

45

26

Victoria
Park ypass
B

Kelvin
Grove

Blamey St

Tc

Queensland
University
of Technology

v in
K el

Herston

Rd

Queensland
University
Medical School

sor Rd
Wind

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

(pp3038)
Brisbane Powerhouse..............(see 43)
Castlemaine-Perkins XXXX
Brewery.................................. 5 B4
Fireworks Gallery........................ 6 F2
Indidge-N-Arts........................... 7 B5
Ithaca Swimming Pool................ 8 B3
Merthyr Bowls Club................... 9 G4
Urban Climb............................. 10 B5

Rd

C5
C3
F2
E1

15

Bridge

He
rst
o

SLEEPING
(pp31214)
77
Aussie Way Hostel...................
11 C3
Banana Benders Backpackers.... 12 C3
Bowen Terrace.......................... 13 F3
Brisbane Backpackers Resort.... 14 C6
Cloud 9................................... 15 C4
Eton B&B................................. 16 C4
Fern Cottage............................ 17 A3
Kangaroo Point Apartments..... 18 E6
Somewhere to Stay.................. 19 C6
Willahra House......................... 20 F2
Yellow Submarine.................... 21 C4

Bowen

INFORMATION
Avid Bookshop & Caf............... 1
Brisbane Sexual Health Clinic..... 2
Police..........................................3
Royal Brisbane Hospital...............4

Musk
Ave

Inn
er

DRINKING
(pp31617)
Alibi Room............................... 37 F3
Caxton Hotel........................... 38 C3
Kitty O'Sheas........................... 39 C3
Lychee Lounge.......................(see 40)
Pavilion.................................... 40 C5
Tongue & Groove.................... 41 B6
Uber.......................................(see 40)
ENTERTAINMENT
(pp31719)
Brisbane Arts Theatre............... 42 C3
Brisbane Powerhouse............... 43 H4
Gabba...................................... 44 F6
La Boite Theatre Company....... 45 C2
Suncorp Stadium...................... 46 B3
Tivoli........................................ 47 E2
SHOPPING
(pp31920)
Emporium................................. 48 F2
Green Flea Community Market.. 49 B5
Powerhouse Farmers Market...(see 43)

St
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CITY

301

Deakin St

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St

Ro
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o

Start with the two-day itinerary, and on day three, give the feet a rest and take a cruise up the
Brisbane River to Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary (p306). Watch the
city unfold around you and take
t
Que en S
a closer look at Brisbanes leafy sprawl. e
d
P
B a rr y
On day four make your way to the Riverlife Centre (p307) and flex your muscles with a kayak
trip along the river or learn to abseil down Kangaroo Point Cliffs (p308). Wander towards the
newly opened Gallery of Modern Art (p304) and explore all five levels of contemporary artwork
before heading to the West End for a delicious meal at the Gunshop Caf (p316). Round off the
evening with a cocktail or three at the Lychee Lounge (p317) and a shimmy at Uber (p318).ek St

t
ers S
Rog

CTRY

St

rry
Get a birds-eye view of the city with a trip up the tower at Brisbane City Hall (p303e).r CAdmire
ity Fe
Inn
the beautiful former Treasury Building (p303) then wander past Brisbane Square and ogle at
the curious spherical sculptures created from kitchen colanders. After youve grabbed coffee
and lunch at Java Coast Caf (p314) head to The Basement (p307) and learn to paint with
Aboriginal artists. Stroll along the river bank passing the historic Commissariat Stores Building
(p303) before taking a well-earned rest in the City Botanic Gardens (p304). Finish the day with
a brew at the Belgian Beer Caf (p317).
Bradfield Hwy
St New
Main to
Start day two with a slap-up breakfast at Little Larder (p315) and then wander down
Farm Park (p306) and the Brisbane Powerhouse (p306). Enjoy one of the exhibitions here or
continue your stroll along the river before jumping on a CityCat (p322). Disembark atSt Kangaroo
Macdonald
Anni e
Point and climb the Story Bridge (p307) for breathtaking views. Once your legs have stopped
shaking, head to the Customs House Brasserie (p314) and treat yourself to a late lunch or
evening drink in one of the most beautiful buildings in town.

Four Days

at
City C

iver

ne R

ba
Bris

500 m
0.3 miles

Riv
er

St

Ar
th
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st

St

St

Ea

nt

Ke

ur

Ha
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o

130

0
0

Ch
es

St

ce

Two Days

Te
rra

BRISBANE IN

Rd

CTRY

Welling
to n

CENTRAL BRISBANE

300
CITY

302

CENTRAL BRISBANE (pp3001)

C4
C5
C5
C4
C5
C5
A4
C6
C5
C5
E1
C4
C5
C5
B4
A4
C5
C4
D1
B7
B5
B7
C5
C5
C4
C5
C4
C4
A4

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

(pp3038)
Basement..................................30 B5
Brisbane Bicycle Sales................31 C5
Brisbane City Hall......................32 B5
Centenary Aquatic Centre.........33 C1
City Nights Tour
Departure Point.................... 34 B5
City Sights Tour
Departure Point.................... 35 C4
Cliffs Rock-Climbing Area........ 36 D8
Commissariat Stores
Building................................ 37 B6
Footsteps Gallery...................... 38 C4
Former Treasury Building..........39 B5
Hands on Art............................ 40 C8
Institute of Modern Art.........(see 110)
Kookaburra River Queens......... 41 D5
Maritime Museum.................... 42 C8
McWhirter's Marketplace.......(see 89)
Mirimar Cruises.........................43 B6
Museum of Brisbane...............(see 32)
Old Windmill & Observatory....44 B4
Parliament House..................... 45 C6
Queensland Art Gallery............ 46 A6

Queensland Gallery of
Modern Art...........................47
Queensland Museum............... 48
QUT Art Museum.................... 49
Riders Cyclery...........................50
River City Cruises......................51
Riverlife Adventure Centre........52
Skatebiz.................................... 53
St John's Cathedral................... 54
State Library of Queensland..... 55
Story Bridge Climb....................56
Streets Beach............................57
Suncorp Piazza..........................58
Valet Cycle Hire....................... 59

A5
A6
C7
B7
B6
E6
C5
D3
A5
E4
B7
B7
D6

SLEEPING
(pp31214)
Acacia Inner-City Inn................ 60 C3
Annie's Shandon Inn................. 61 C3
Best Western
Gregory Terrace....................62 C1
Bunk Backpackers......................63 E2
Central Brunswick
Apartments...........................64 F2
Conrad Treasury....................... 65 C6
Dahrl Court Apartments........... 66 D2
Dorchester Self-Contained
Units.....................................67 B3
Il Mondo...................................68 E5
Inchcolm Hotel......................... 69 C3
Kookaburra Inn.........................70 C2
Palace Backpackers................... 71 C4
Paramount Motel......................72 E8
Quay West Suites Brisbane....... 73 C6
Rydges South Bank Brisbane..... 74 A7
Soho Motel...............................75 B3
Stamford Plaza Brisbane........... 76 D5
Tinbilly..................................... 77 A4
EATING
(pp31416)
BurgerUrge................................78 F3
Caf San Marco........................79 B7
Coles Express............................ 80 C4
Customs House Brasserie.......... 81 D4
E'cco......................................... 82 D3
Fatboy's Caf............................83 E2
Food Court (Myer Centre)........ 84 C5
Food Court
(South Bank Parklands)..........85 B7
Food Court
(Wintergarden Centre)..........86 C5
Foodworks................................87 E1
Govinda's................................. 88 C5
Java Coast Caf....................(see 106)
McWhirter's Marketplace..........89 E1
Metro Cafe............................... 90 C5
New York Slice..........................91 E2
Thai Wi-Rat...............................92 E2
Tibetan Kitchen.........................93 F2
Verve Caf............................... 94 D5
Woolworths............................. 95 C5

DRINKING
(pp31617)
Belgian Beer Cafe..................... 96 D5
Bowery......................................97 F1
Dooleys.....................................98 E2
Down Under Bar & Grill..........(see 71)
GPO..........................................99 E1
Sportsman's Hotel.................. 100 C3
Story Bridge Hotel...................101 E4
ENTERTAINMENT
(pp31719)
Alhambra Lounge....................102 E2
Beat Mega Club.......................103 F1
Birch, Carroll & Coyle............(see 109)
Brisbane Convention &
Exhibition Centre................ 104 A7
Brisbane Jazz Club...................105 E4
Dendy Cinema........................106 B5
Empire.....................................107 E2
Family.....................................108 E2
Hoyts Regent Theatre............. 109 C5
Judith Wright Centre for
Contemporary Arts..............110 F2
Palace Centro..........................111 F1
Queensland Conservatorium...112 B7
Queensland Performing
Arts Centre..........................113 A6
QUT Gardens Theatre............ 114 D7
Rev..........................................115 E1
Ric's Caf................................116 E2
South Bank Cinema................117 B7
Ticketek Booth.......................(see 84)
Troubadour.............................118 E2
Wickham Hotel........................119 E1
Zoo..........................................120 E1
SHOPPING
(pp31920)
Australian Indigenous
Tribal Galleries....................(see 30)
Blonde Venus...........................121 F1
Brunswick St Markets..............122 E2
CQStore..................................123 E2
Dogstar....................................124 F1
Eagle St Pier Market............... 125 D5
Globe Trekker......................... 126 C5
Museum of Brisbane Store......(see 32)
Riverside Centre Market......... 127 D4
Southbank Lifestyles Market...128 B7
TRANSPORT
(pp3203)
Abel Rent A Car...................(see 133)
Buses to Brisbane Forest Park.. 129 C4
Integra Network Car &
Truck Rentals.......................130 E1
Qantas...................................(see 27)
Queen St Mall Bus Station......131 B5
Queensland Rail
Travel Centre.......................132 C4
Queensland Rail
Travel Centre....................(see 133)
Roma St Transit Centre........... 133 A4

(Continued from page 296)

SIGHTS
Most of Brisbanes major historical sights are
in, or near, the city centre (also called the CBD)
and the citys arts hub, South Bank, sits a short
ferry ride across the river. Fortitude Valley and
neighbouring New Farm are popular with locals for their culture, cafs, bars and live music
venues, and the West End for its upmarket bohemian vibe. The freebie brochure Brisbanes Living Heritage (www.brisbanelivingheritage.com), available
from the visitor information centres, highlights
many of the sights Brisbane has to offer.

Brisbane City Hall & Museum of

Brisbane
The foundation stone for the City Hall (Map
pp300-1; %3403 8888; btwn Ann & Adelaide Sts, Brisbane;
admission free; hlift & viewing tower 10am-3pm Mon-Fri,
10am-2.30pm Sat & Sun) was laid in 1920 but it took

a further 10 years to complete the sandstone

edifice. The four clock faces on each side of
the tower are the largest in Australia and,
until the Sydney Opera House was completed
in 1971, Brisbanes City Hall was the most
expensive building in the country. Although
it is no longer the tallest building in the city,
the lofty clock tower still has an observation
platform that affords great city views.
On the ground floor and basement, the
Museum of Brisbane (admission free; h10am-5pm)
has both permanent and changing exhibitions exploring the citys culture and heritage.
Brisbanes past is played out in the multimedia
Memory Theatre, which screens short film
clips of the city and its people. A second wing
features temporary exhibits showcasing art,
crafts and photography by local and international artists. There are free guided tours
of the museum on Tuesday, Thursday and
Saturday at 11am.

Footsteps Gallery
Housed within the old School of Arts, a short
walk east of King George Sq, is the Footsteps
Gallery (Map pp300-1; %3229 1879; 166 Ann St, Brisbane; admission free; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) that was
established to support emerging artists from
the Aboriginal and Torres Straits communities. The building was originally known as the
Servants Home, as it provided accommodation for single adult females awaiting employment as domestic maids, but it became an art
school in 1849. Today it hosts monthly exhibi-

B R I S B A N E S i g h t s 303

tions of indigenous art and there are plans to

introduce cultural performances, storytelling
evenings and bush-tucker tastings.

Former Treasury Building

The most grand and impressive of Brisbanes
historical architecture is the former Treasury Building (Map pp3001) that sits near
Victoria Bridge. Once regarded as a symbol
of self-government (the proclamation of the
federation of the Australian Commonwealth
was read from a balcony here) and a focal
point for patriotic displays, the building now
houses entertainment of a different kind a
24-hour casino. In the block southeast of the
casino is the equally magnificent former
Land Administration Building, which has been
transformed into a luxury five-star hotel, the
Conrad Treasury (p314).

Commissariat Stores Building

To the south of the Treasury Building is the
Commissariat Stores Building (Map pp300-1; %3221
4198; 115 William St, Brisbane; adult/child $4/2; h10am4pm Tue-Sun) of which the first two floors were

constructed entirely by convict labour in

1829. Now a museum, the guided tours offer
a thorough insight into Brisbanes gruesome
penal history; the jar of convict fingertips is
guaranteed to leave some feeling queasy.

Parliament House
Dating from 1868 and with a roof clad in
Mt Isa copper is Parliament House (Map pp300-1;
%3406 7381; cnr Alice & George Sts, Brisbane; admission
free; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) where you can watch

politicians battle it out from the public balcony

on sitting days. Free tours leave on demand
between 9am and 4.15pm Monday to Friday
and 10am to 2pm weekends, unless Parliament
is sitting. Traditional high tea ($32 per person)
is served on the first Friday of the month in the
aptly named Strangers Dining Room between
10am and noon. Bookings are essential.

QUT Art Museum

The small but impressive QUT Art Museum (Map
pp300-1; %3864 5370; 2 George St, Brisbane; admission
free; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, until 8pm Wed, noon-4pm Sat
& Sun) is set within the Queensland Univer-

sity of Technology (QUT) campus, and has

developed a reputation for well-designed
and thought-provoking contemporary art
displays. Past exhibitions have included a
taxidermy-inspired sequinned squirrel.

QUEENSLAND

INFORMATION
Amex......................................... 1
Archives Fine Books.................... 2
Australia Post............................. 3
Australia Post............................. 4
Borders Bookstore.......................5
Brisbane Visitor
Information Centre................. 6
Brisbane Visitors
Accommodation Service..........7
Child Care Information Service... 8
Day & Night Pharmacy............... 9
Folio Books............................... 10
Global Gossip............................11
Global Gossip........................... 12
Interforex Brisbane................... 13
Internet City............................. 14
Naturally Queensland...............15
Police........................................ 16
Police........................................ 17
RACQ....................................... 18
RACQ.......................................19
South Bank Visitor
Information Centre...............20
STA Travel................................21
Toilets.......................................22
Trailfinders............................... 23
Travel Clinic.............................. 24
Travelex................................... 25
Travelex................................... 26
Travellers' Medical &
Vaccination Centre............... 27
World Wide Maps & Guides..... 28
YHA Membership &
Travel Office.........................29

lonelyplanet.com

304 B R I S B A N E S i g h t s

City Botanic Gardens

Brisbanes many parks offer islands of leafy
respite for city-dwellers and the spacious City
Botanic Gardens (Map pp300-1; %3403 0666; Albert St,

Fairweather Room that displays paintings by

Queensland artist Ian Fairweather.
Adjacent to the gallery is the Queensland
Museum (Map pp300-1; %3840 7555; www.southbank

Brisbane; admission free; h24hr, free guided tours 11am &

1pm Mon-Sat) are especially popular. Set along-

.qm.qld.gov.au; cnr Grey & Melbourne Sts, South Brisbane;

admission free; h9.30am-5pm) that houses a di-

side a curve in the Brisbane River, the gardens

form Brisbanes oldest park and are filled with
walking trails, green lawns, bamboo gardens,
bunya pines, macadamia trees and Moreton
Bay figs. The pretty Mangrove Boardwalk, a
wooden walkway skirting the riverbank on the
eastern rim, is lit up until midnight, affording
good opportunities to spot possums.

verse range of displays including the Discover

Queensland exhibition and the Museum Zoo,
which houses over 700 prehistoric and modern animals from dung beetles to dinosaurs.
Upstairs, theres a sobering display on Australias endangered species and on the 4th
floor is the museums impressive Aboriginal
and Torres Straits Islander Cultures Centre.
Within the museum is the very fun Sciencentre

Old Windmill & Observatory

In Wickham Park, near Central Station, stands
the Old Windmill & Observatory (Map pp300-1; Wickham
Tce) that was first constructed as a mill for
grinding corn. Built in 1828 its just a fraction
older than the Commissariat Stores, making
it the oldest surviving building in Brisbane. It
is closed to the public.

Queensland Cultural Centre

Brisbanes art scene is thriving and the vast
Queensland Cultural Centre forms the citys
cultural backbone.
The most recent addition to this group of
buildings is the world-class Queensland Gallery
of Modern Art (GoMA; Map pp300-1; %3840 7303; www
.qag.qld.gov.au; Stanley Place, South Brisbane; admission free;
h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun), part of a

$300 million redevelopment of the precinct.

It opened in early December 2006 and is the
nations largest modern art gallery, focusing
on art, including cinematic and multimedia,
from the last 30 years. The 5th Asia-Pacific
Triennial of Contemporary Art formed the
main attraction for the triumphant opening,
alongside impressive permanent collections
of contemporary Australian, indigenous
Australian, Asian, Pacific and international
works.
Standing beside GoMA is the newly refurbished State Library of Queensland (Map pp300
1) and the Queensland Art Gallery (Map pp300-1;
%3840 7555; Stanley Place, South Brisbane; admission free;
h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun). The per-

manent and visiting exhibitions here reflect

pre-1970 Australian, Asian and international
art. There are some particularly enjoyable permanent collections that include Australian
masterpieces by the likes of Brett Whiteley
and Sidney Nolan, and the newly opened

(www.southbank.qm.qld.gov.au/sciencentre; adult/child/family $10/8/29), a hands-on science exhibit with

over 100 interactive displays that will keep

you occupied for hours, no matter how old
you are.

South Bank Parklands

On the banks of the Brisbane River, these vibrant parklands (Map pp300-1; admission free; hdawndusk) offer 17 hectares of green spaces, picnic
areas, blooming arbours, cafs and restaurants, tropical gardens and walkways.
At the heart of the gardens is Streets Beach,
an artificial subtropical swimming hole that
ambles its way through the park before opening up into a vast lagoon. Behind the beach,
running parallel to the parklands, is Little
Stanley Street, a lively strip of gourmet eateries, boutique shops and cool bars.
The Suncorp Piazza is an outdoor theatre that
screens free international sporting events, free
movies during the school holidays and short
films during festival periods. It also acts as
a concert venue and a place for impromptu
performances by street artists. Free swing
dancing classes are held here from 6.30pm
on the last Saturday of every month.
To get here jump on a CityCat or Inner City
Ferry (there are three jetties along the riverbank) or walk across the Goodwill Bridge that
links South Bank to the City Botanic Gardens.
Buses and trains also run here from Roma St
or Central Stations.

Maritime Museum
Naval enthusiasts will enjoy this museum (Map
pp300-1; %3844 5361; Sidon St, South Brisbane; adult/
child/family $7/4/16; h9.30am-4.30pm, last entry 3.30pm),

which is filled with ship models, engines and

vessels that reflect Queenslands maritime

lonelyplanet.com

history. One highlight is the gigantic HMAS

Diamantina, a restored WWII frigate that you
can clamber aboard and explore.

Mt Coot-tha Reserve
Roughly 7km southwest of the city centre is
Mt Coot-tha Reserve (Map p297), an expansive bush and parkland area peppered with
picnic spots and walking trails. The name
derives from the indigenous term ku-ta meaning honey, as this is where local Aboriginal
people would come to collect the rich nectar
produced by the native stingless bee.
The lookout at the top of the mountain
brings spectacular views and on a clear day
you can see all the way to Moreton Bay in the
east and the Glass House Mountains to the
west. The lookout is accessed via Sir Samuel
Griffith Dr and has wheelchair access.
Just north of the road to the lookout is the
turn-off to JC Slaughter Falls (3.4km) reached
by a short walking track. Also here is a 1.8km
Aboriginal Art Trail. If you have a car, or are
an ambitious cyclist, then its worth trailing
the road around the reserve for some very
pretty vistas.
At the foot of the mountain are the lush
Brisbane Botanic Gardens (%3403 2535; admission
free; h8.30am-5.30pm Sep-Mar, 8am-5pm Apr-Aug, free
guided walks 11am & 1pm Mon-Sat) that extend for

52 hectares and include over 20,000 species

of plants. Its a wonderful spot for a picnic
or ideal for simply wandering through the
many gardens. Highlights include the Fragrant Plant and Herb Garden where visitors
are encouraged to touch the herbs to release
their natural fragrance.
At the entrance to the gardens is the Sir
Thomas Brisbane Planetarium (% 3403 2578;
h2.30am-4.30pm Tue-Fri, 11am-8.15pm Sat, to 4.15pm
Sun), the largest planetarium in Australia and

a wonderland for budding Neil Armstrongs.

The observatory has a variety of telescopes
and one of the resident astronomers can help
pinpoint stars and intergalactic beings. There
are also regular shows inside the Cosmic Skydome (adult/child/family $12/7/32) that journey into
outer space and are narrated by the likes of
Tom Hanks.
Bus 471 ($3, 30 minutes, hourly) runs from
Adelaide St, opposite King George Sq and
stops at the Botanic Gardens before continuing on to the lookout at Mt Coot-tha. The last
bus returning to the city leaves at 3.50pm on
weekdays and 5pm on weekends.

B R I S B A N E S i g h t s 305

Brisbane Forest Park

West of Brisbane lies the DAguilar Range,
a succession of protected areas that includes
Brisbane Forest Park (Map p324). Hidden
within this 28,500-hectare natural bushland
are remote gorges, expanses of subtropical
rainforest and scribbly-gum woodland. The
bird life is also prolific and Brisbanites come
here by the dozen to take advantage of this
natural playground just 12km from the city
centre. There are numerous walking trails
varying in length and degree of difficulty. The
1.5km Egernia Circuit at Jollys Lookout is an
enjoyable morning walk for keen ornithologists, and the 4km Thylogale Track winds
its way leisurely through eucalypt forest and
rainforest to Boombana.
The Brisbane Forest Park information centre
(%1300 723 684; 60 Mt Nebo Rd; h9am-4.30pm MonFri, from 9am Sat & Sun) sits at the park entrance
and has information about bush camping (per
person/family $5/18) and maps of walking trails,

but it does not sell camping permits. If you

plan to camp then you must get your permit
through the EPA (%131 304; www.epa.qld.gov.au)
before arrival.
To get here catch bus 385 ($4, 30 minutes)
from the corner of Albert and Adelaide Sts.
The bus stops near the visitors centre and the
last departure back to the city is at 4.55pm.
The actual walking trails are a fair distance
from the visitors centre, so if youre planning
on attacking them its best to have your own
transport.

Inner North
Fortitude Valley has long been Brisbanes
edgy neighbourhood. For years it was home
to pimps, prostitutes and junkies and later
musicians as the citys live music scene began
to take hold. These days its an eclectic mix of
the down and out and upwardly mobile, the
yuppies backyard and clubbers playground.
The heart of the Valley is the Brunswick St Mall
(Map pp3001), a pedestrianised strip where
coffee shops thrive by day and bars buzz at
night. On Saturday mornings bleary-eyed
shoppers congregate for the Brunswick St
Markets.
At the Wickham St end of the mall is
McWhirters Marketplace (Map pp3001), a
Brisbane landmark with an impressive Art
Deco corner faade.
Running parallel to the Brunswick St Mall
is Brisbanes Chinatown (Map pp300-1; Duncan St,

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

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306 B R I S B A N E S i g h t s

Fortitude Valley), a compact but lively strip of res-

taurants, massage therapists, herbalists and

acupuncture businesses.
Southwest of the Valley, St Johns Cathedral
century Gothic Revival architecture. Inside,
look for the beautiful hand-stitched cushions
that depict Queensland flora and fauna; there
are 400 in total.
New Farm, just east of the Valley along
Brunswick St, is the latest neighbourhood to
undergo gentrification and is now bursting
with coffee shops, wine bars and restaurants.
At weekends, all action centres on New Farm
Park (Map pp2989), a lovely, open parkland
with playgrounds and picnic areas.
The inner north is home to a vibrant arts
community and there are clusters of private
galleries and exhibition spaces throughout
the area. On the eastern fringes of New Farm
Park stands the Brisbane Powerhouse (Map pp298-9;
%3358 8600; 119 Lamington St, New Farm), a contemporary arts and performance space that also
hosts exhibitions. The Institute of Modern Art
(%3252 5750; www.ima.org.au; 420 Brunswick St, Fortitude
Valley; h11am-5pm Tue-Fri, until 8pm Thu) is a non-

commercial gallery with regular showings by

local names. Slightly further north is the excellent Fireworks Gallery (Map pp298-9; %3216 1250; 11
Stratton St, Newstead; h11am-5pm Tue-Fri, to 4pm Sat), a
commercial space dedicated to contemporary
Aboriginal art.

Newstead House
North of the centre, occupying a beautiful
spot above the Brisbane River, is the citys
oldest domestic dwelling, picturesque Newstead House (%3216 1846; Breakfast Creek Rd, Newstead;
adult/child/family $5/4/12; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 2-5pm
Sun). Built in 1846, the house is now a museum

and the rooms are decorated with Victorian

furnishings, antiques and period displays that,
according to staff, occasionally move around
of their own accord.

Wildlife Sanctuaries
LONE PINE KOALA SANCTUARY

Established in 1927, this wildlife sanctuary (Map

p297; %3378 1366; Jesmond Rd, Fig Tree Pocket; adult/child/
family $20/15/52; h8.30am-5pm), 11km southwest

of Brisbane, is the worlds first and largest

koala sanctuary. Although there were only
two koalas when the parklands first opened,
today there are over 130 of the cute, fuzzy

creatures plus dozens of other animals to see,

snap, hold and feed.
The most enjoyable way to get here is with
Mirimar Cruises (%1300 729 742; adult/child/family incl
park entry $48/27/135) that depart daily from North
Quay, next to Victoria Bridge at 10am, returning from Lone Pine at 1.30pm.
Alternatively, express bus 430 ($3, 35 minutes) leaves hourly from stop 116A on George
St between 8.45am and 3.40pm daily.
ALMA PARK ZOO

lonelyplanet.com

ACTIVITIES

Cycling

With more sunny days than Florida and

warmer winter temperatures than the Bahamas, its no wonder that Brisbane residents
spend most of their time outside. At any time
of day youll see people running, cycling,
walking or in-line skating their way through
the city. The abundance of parks, walkways
and oodles of river-based activities make it
hard to resist the lure of the great (urban)
outdoors.

There are more than 500km of bikeways

across Brisbane city and many of them run
alongside the river. Pick up a copy of the city
councils Brisbane Bicycle Experience Guide
booklet from visitor information centres.
Bicycles are allowed on Citytrains, except on weekdays during peak hours (7am
to 9.30am going into the CBD and 3pm to
6.30pm heading out of the CBD). You can
take bikes on CityCats and ferries for free.
Brisbane bike rentals:
Brisbane Bicycle Sales (Map pp300-1; %3229 2433;

Brisbanes tropical zoo (%3204 6566; Alma Rd, Dak-

Aboriginal Workshops

abin; adult/child/family $26/17/62; h9am-5pm, last entry

4pm) lies 28km north of the city centre off the

Learn about Australian indigenous culture

and craft techniques with a workshop at
the Basement (Map pp300-1; %1800 806 225, 3236

Bruce Hwy (exit Boundary Rd) and is home to

a large number of exotic and Australian animals. Native mammals include koalas, kangaroos, possums and dingoes while the baboons,
leopards and Malaysian sun bears hail from
foreign shores. You can touch and feed many of
the animals feeding times are between 11am
and 2.30pm and cost $3 per animal.
The zoo train (on the Caboolture line) runs
from Roma St Transit Centre departing daily
at 9am ($6, 45 minutes) and connects with
the free zoo bus at Dakabin station. The bus
departs the zoo at 1.30pm daily to connect
with the 1.47pm service from Dakabin back
to the city.
DAISY HILL KOALA CENTRE

Koalas are a threatened species in the southeast Queensland bioregion, an area that includes Daisy Hill, so its only fitting that a
centre (%3299 1032; Daisy Hill Rd, Daisy Hill Forest Reserve;
admission free; h10am-4pm) dedicated to koala
conservation be located here, roughly 25km
southeast of Brisbane. Youll see a number
of fat and happy-looking bears at the centre,
but the surrounding area provides plenty of
opportunity to spot them in the wild. Within
the centre there are a number of kid-friendly
displays that explain how the koalas natural
habitat is being threatened. During the school
holidays there are QPWS-run Go Bush programmes, which include guided bushwalking,
night tours and wildlife shows. Booking is
essential.
Getting here via public transport is not easy.
Catch the Logan City bus 555 and change at
the Hyperdome for buses 573 or 575; its a
1.5km walk from where the bus drops you off
to the entrance. You can also visit the centre
with Araucaria Ecotours (p311).

B R I S B A N E A c t i v i t i e s 307

1700; www.indigenousgallery.com.au; 376 George St; from

$29-89; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri). Run by traditional

Aboriginal artists, its a unique opportunity

to paint your own canvas or didgeridoo
and learn about this ancient culture. Similar workshops are held at Indidge-n-Arts (Map
pp298-9; %1800 893 896, 3846 0455; 270 Montague Rd,
West End; from $20-89; h9am-5pm) where you can

also learn traditional weaving and jewellerymaking techniques. Both venues also have an
art gallery with proceeds returning directly
to the artist.

Bowls
Lawn bowls has shed its traditional cucumber
sandwiches and ancient men in white suits
image and become the Sunday afternoon
activity of choice for Brisbanes young and
old. Leading the charge is the Merthyr Bowls
Club (Map pp298-9; %3358 1291; Oxlade Dr, New Farm;
per person from $20), on the banks of the Brisbane
River. Its packed at weekends with punters
trying to bowl in a straight line after a snag
and a stubby courtesy of the cheap Sunday
arvo barbecue.

Bridge Climb
Only the third licensed bridge climb experience in the world (the other two being
Sydney and Auckland), the Story Bridge Climb
(Map pp300-1; %1300 254 627; www.storybridgeadventure
climb.com.au; 170 Main St, Kangaroo Point; adult/child from
$110/83) offers breathtaking views of the city.

The 900m climb takes place on the southern half of the bridge and reaches heights
of 80m above the Brisbane River. Tours last
2 hours and bookings are essential. Prices
differ according to time of day with twilight
tours being the most expensive.

87 Albert St, Brisbane; per day $20; h8.30am-5.30pm

Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)
Riders Cyclery (Map pp300-1; %3846 6200; Shop 9,
Little Stanley St, South Bank; per hr $12, half-/full day
$20/30; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri, 8.30am4pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)
Valet Cycle Hire (Map pp300-1; %0408 003 198;
www.valetcyclehire.com; Alice St entrance, City Botanic
Gardens; per half/full day $30/40) All kinds of bikes including tandems and childrens can be delivered to your door
for a minimal charge.

In-line Skating
For an alternative tour of the city, hook up
with Planet Inline (%3217 3571; www.planetinline
.com), which organises Wednesday night skate
tours starting at 7.15pm from the top of the
Goodwill Bridge ($15). It also runs a Saturday
morning breakfast club tour ($15), and Sunday afternoon tours that differ each week and
last about three hours ($15).
You can hire skates and equipment from
Skatebiz (Map pp300-1; %3220 0157; www.skatebiz.com
.au; 101 Albert St, Brisbane; per 2/24hr $12.50/20; h9am5.30pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun).

Riverlife Adventure Centre

This newly opened centre (Map pp300-1; %3891
5766; www.riverlife.com.au; Naval Stores, River Tce, Kangaroo Point; h9am-6.30pm Mon, 9am-8pm Tue-Sun) offers

a wealth of river and land-based activities.

Group kayaking lessons and night kayaking
trips along the Brisbane River are held daily,
or you can hire your own. It also holds inline skating classes at 9.30am for intermediate and advanced skaters, and at 10.30am
for beginners ($29 per person) on weekends.
On Thursday at noon you can participate in
traditional Aboriginal song and dance performances (adult/child $39/25) with descendants of the Nunukul, Yuggera, Yugimbir and
Nugi tribes. Performances ($59 per person)

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

(Map pp300-1; %3835 2248; 373 Ann St, Brisbane; admission

free; h9.30am-4.30pm) is a fine example of 19th-

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From the cathedral, head southwest down

Elizabeth St, then turn right onto Edward St
and left into the Queen St Mall (8). This busy
pedestrian mall is the commercial centre of
Brisbane, and is lined with fine faades dating back to Australias Federation, including
the glorious frontage of the old Hoyts Regent
Theatre (9).
Walk the length of Queen St Mall until you
reach George St. Diagonally opposite youll
WALK FACTS
Start/finish Brisbane City Hall
Distance 5km to 6km
Duration two to five hours

South
Bank 3

Goodwill
Bridge

Captain
Cook
Bridge

see the unmistakable Italian-Renaissance

former Treasury Building (10; p303), now housing
a casino. Turn left onto George St and youll
pass another building from the same era, the
Land Administration Building (11; p303), now the
Conrad Treasury hotel. Take the small alley
just south of the hotel (Stephens Lane) onto
William St and head right, passing the historic
Commissariat Stores Building (12; p303).
Continue down William St, turn left up
Margaret St and right onto George St. Cross
Alice St to take in the splendour of Queenslands regal copper-topped Parliament House
(13; p303). Further south is the impressive QUT
Art Museum (14; p303) and the Old Government
House (15), built in 1860. From here you can
stroll through the City Botanic Gardens (16; p304)

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7665; 400 Gregory Tce, Spring Hill; adult/child $5/4;

h5.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 6am-6pm Sat & Sun) An
Olympic-sized lap pool, kids pool and diving pool with
high tower.
Chermside Aquatic Centre (%3359 6134; 375 Hamilton Rd, Chermside; adult/child/family $10/8/28; h7am5pm Sat & Sun, 10am-5pm daily
during school holidays) Waterpark with slides, tube rides
and an indoor swimming pool.
Ithaca Swimming Pool (Map pp298-9;%3369 2624;
131 Caxton St, Paddington; adult/child $4/3; h5.30am7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat & Sun) Quiet 25m outdoor
pool.

St

.com/antiqueairways) Enjoy the rush of flying in the open

cockpit of a 1940s Tiger Moth plane.
Brisbane Skydiving Centre (%5464 6111; www
.brisbaneskydive.com.au) Tandem and solo skydiving.
Fly Me to the Moon (%3423 0400; www.flymetothe
moon.com.au) Balloon flights over Brisbane.
Skydive Ramblers (%5423 1159; www.ramblers.com
.au) Tandem and solo skydiving.

The size and relatively flat landscape of the

city centre makes it extremely walker-friendly,
and strolling the sights is the best way to immerse yourself in the city. The city council
produces the free Experience Guide, which
suggests good itineraries. The following 5km
to 6km walk takes anything from a couple of
hours to a full day.
Start your expedition at the imposing
classical-style Brisbane City Hall (1; p303), where
you can buff up on the citys history and soak
in the spectacular views from the top of the
bell tower. Walk through the statues and
lawns of King George Sq (2), head up Ann St
and cross Edward St into Anzac Sq (3), where
touch-and-tell interactive displays recall the
significance of the park. At the northwestern
end of the park the Shrine of Remembrance (4) is
a Greek Revivalist cenotaph where an eternal
flame burns in remembrance of Australian
soldiers who died in WWI.
Head over the pedestrian bridge at the
eastern corner of the square, which connects
Anzac Sq to Post Office Sq (5). Continue heading southeast, across Queen St, to Brisbanes
magnificent, historic GPO (6), which is still in
use. Walk down the small alley that skirts
the eastern side of the post office through
to Elizabeth St. Cross the road and explore
the beautiful St Stephens Cathedral (7) and the
adjoining St Stephens Chapel. Built in 1850,
the chapel is Brisbanes oldest church and was
designed by English architect Augustus Pugin,
who designed Londons Houses of Parliament.
The cathedral was built in 1874.

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Central
Station

King
Edward
Park

Wickham
Park

Streets Beach (p304) is a pretty manmade

beach on the banks of the Brisbane River.
It gets very busy at weekends and on public
holidays.
Other recommended swimming centres:
Centenary Aquatic Centre (Map pp300-1; %3831

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Swimming

Roma
St

Co

.urbanclimb.com; Unit 2, 220 Montague Rd, West End;

adult/child/family $16/14/80; hnoon-10pm Mon-Fri,
10am-6pm Sat & Sun) Large indoor climbing wall.
Worth Wild Rock Climbing (%1800 689 453; www
.worthwild.com.au; group instruction per person $75)
Runs abseiling trips to the Glass House Mountains and an
introduction to abseiling every Saturday at Kangaroo Point
from 8.30am to 11am.

0
0

WALKING TOUR

Pl

The Kangaroo Point Cliffs (Map pp3001) on the

southern banks of the Brisbane River offer
an excellent outdoor climbing venue thats
extremely popular with local scramblers. The
pink volcanic cliffs are reputedly 200 million
years old and when floodlit at night they form
a spectacular backdrop to the City Botanic
Gardens.
Several operators offer climbing and abseiling instruction in this area. The Riverlife
Adventure Centre (%3891 5766; www.riverlife.com.au;
Naval Stores, River Tce, Kangaroo Point; day/night $29/39) is
ideally located to provide lessons. Torre Outdoor Adventures (%3870 3223; www.torremountain
craft.com.au; climbing $25), runs a rock-climbing
club and meets at the base of the cliffs every
Wednesday night at 6pm.
Other operators:
Urban Climb (Map pp298-9;%3844 2544; www

Weary bodies can rebalance their yin and

their yang with tai chi classes (free) held every
Sunday morning at 9.30am in the Chinatown
Mall (p297), and at 8am on Saturdays in New
Farm Park ($5 per person).
Thrill-seekers can take to the skies over
Brisbane from $270 with any of the following
companies:
Antique Airways (%3204 1933; www.users.bigpond

B R I S B A N E W a l k i n g T o u r 309

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Rock Climbing

Other Activities

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are also held on Saturday at 7pm; bookings

are essential.
To get here catch the ferry to the Thornton
St ferry terminal and follow the signs south
along the river for 380m.

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308 B R I S B A N E W a l k i n g T o u r

310 B R I S B A N E B r i s b a n e f o r C h i l d re n

and take the weight off your feet for a while

under a magnificent Moreton Bay fig.
Once rested, head back through the QUT
campus toward the river and catch a ferry
from QUT Gardens Point ferry stop to South
Bank 3. This will land you at the southern
end of the South Bank Parklands (17; p304).
Meander north along the modernist walkway,
past Streets Beach (18; p304) and Stanley St Plaza
(19). Just beyond here, tucked away among
the trees, is an ornate wooden Nepalese Pagoda
(20), built during Brisbane 1988 Expo. Past the
Queensland Cultural Centre, be sure to pop
into the Queensland Museum (21; p304) and the
Queensland Gallery of Modern Art (22; p304).
Once youve exhausted these, cross the Victoria Bridge back into the CBD, back past the
former Treasury Building, turning left onto
George St. Turn right onto Adelaide St and
one block will land you back at your starting
point at the Brisbane City Hall.
Theres lots to keep the little ones busy in Brisbane, particularly during the school holiday
periods. The newly opened Queensland Gallery
of Modern Art (p304) has a fantastic Childrens
Art Centre that offers hands-on activities,
workshops and performances. There are also
artist-run programmes that introduce children to some of the exhibitions.
Hands on Art (Map pp300-1; %3844 4589; www
.handsonart.org.au; Boardwalk Riverkids Arts Centre, South
Bank Parklands; admission free; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri during
school holidays, 10am-5pm Wed-Fri during term time), at the

southern end of the South Bank Parklands, is

another opportunity for kids to explore their
creativity, or at least get mucky with paint and
clay. Bookings are essential.
The Queensland Museum (p304) runs entertaining educational activities during the
school holidays and the Sciencentre provides
mind-boggling fun all year round.
The South Bank Parklands (p304) have a
smattering of playgrounds for kids to slide,
swing and climb on. Streets Beach is also located here with a shallow paddling pool for
really small tots. In the Roma Street Parkland
(Map pp3001) there are free guided walks
for parents and under fives every Wednesday
from 10am.
The river is a big draw and a cruise to the
Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary (p306), where nippers
can hold these cute animals, is guaranteed to
win parents brownie points.

Intergalactic shows and exhibits at the Sir

Thomas Brisbane Planetarium (p305) will take
kids on adventures to the final frontier.
The Brisbane City Council (www.brisbane.qld.gov
.au) runs Chill Out, a programme of activities for 10 to 17 year olds during the school
holidays.
The free monthly booklet Brisbanes Child
(www.brisbaneschild.com.au) has information about
Brisbane for parents.
For child-care listings see http://directory
.ourbrisbane.com/directory/categories/63
.html or contact the Child Care Information Service (%1800 637 711, 3224 4225; Level 4, 111 George St,
Brisbane).

TOURS

Brewery Tours
Finding it hard to choose between a bottle of
VB or a pot of XXXX? These hugely popular
guided brewery tours come with free samples,
so they should help you make up your mind.
Bookings for both tours are essential and you
must wear closed shoes.
Carlton & United Brewhouse (%3826 5858; www
.carltonbrewhouse.com.au; cnr Darlington Dr & Pacific
Hwy, Yatala; adult/child $18/10; htours 10am, noon &
2pm Mon-Fri, noon & 2pm Sun) This complex, 40km south
of the city centre on the way to the Gold Coast, is one of
the largest breweries in Queensland and pumps out around
three million bottles of the good stuff a day.
Castlemaine-Perkins XXXX Brewery (Map pp298-9;
%3361 7597; www.xxxx.com.au; cnr Black & Paten Sts,
Milton; adult/child $18/10; htours hourly 10am-4pm
Mon-Fri, also 6pm Wed) Tours of the XXXX Ale House
include four ales to quench your thirst (over 18s only)
and conveniently finishes in the house bar, so be sure to
leave the car at home. The brewery is a 20-minute walk
west from the Roma St Transit Centre or you can take the
Citytrain to Milton station.

City Tours
Artours (%3899 3686; www.artours.coaus.com; adult/
child from $45/15; h9.15am & 1.15pm Tue-Sat) Focuses
on Brisbane and southeast Queenslands art scene. Typical
half-day tours take in five to six galleries; full-day tours can
include wineries and craft villages.
Australian Day Tours (%3899 3686; www.daytours
.com.au; adult/child from $48/29; h9.15am) Operates
half-day City Sights tours around Brisbane.
Brisbane Lights Tours (%3489 6444; adult/child
$60/35) Witness the bright lights of Brisvegas on this
tour that takes you around the city and up to Mt Coottha Lookout for dinner or refreshments and includes a
CityCat cruise.

B R I S B A N E Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s 311

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City Sights bus tour (Map pp300-1; %13 12 30; adult/

child day ticket $22/16; h9am-3.45pm, every 45min)
Hop-on, hop-off bus departs from the GPO and shuttles
around 19 of the citys major landmarks. Day tickets can be
bought on the bus. The same ticket covers you for unlimited
use of conventional city bus and ferry services.
Ghost Tours (%3344 7265; www.ghost-tours.com.au;
adult/child from $45/23) Spooky tours of Brisbanes bloody
and haunted heritage led by horror historian Jack Sim.

River Cruises
A boat trip along the Brisbane River is a lovely,
leisurely way to see the city.
Kookaburra River Queens (Map pp300-1; %3221
1300; www.kookaburrariverqueens.com; lunch/dinner
cruise per person $48/65) Enjoy a buffet lunch (two hours)
or an evening meal (2 hours) on a white wooden paddle
steamer as it coasts lazily up and down the river. Cruises
depart from Eagle St Pier, on the eastern side of the city.
Boarding for the lunch cruise is at noon daily and at 7pm
Monday to Thursday for the dinner cruise. On Sunday and
public holidays the evening cruise departs at 6.30pm.
Mirimar Cruises (Map pp300-1; %1300 729 742;
www.mirimar.com; Queens Wharf Rd, North Quay; 1hr
cruise per adult/child/family $23/10/70, wildlife cruise
$48/27/135) The Mirimar transports passengers to the
Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary (see p306) departing from
North Quay daily at 9.30am.
River City Cruises (Map pp300-1; %0428-278 473;
www.rivercitycruises.com.au; South Bank Parklands
Cruise Terminal Jetty A; adult/child/family $25/15/60;
h10.30am & 12.30pm) An informative and sometimes
amusing commentary accompanies these 1-hour
cruises.

Hinterland Tours

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

The visitor information centre can advise you
on festivals and events in Brisbane or check
out www.ourbrisbane.com/whatson. The citys
major events are listed here.
January

Cockroach Races (www.cockroachraces.com.au) This

quirky event has been held at the Story Bridge Hotel (see
p317) on Australia Day, 26 January, for the last 26 years
and attracts up to 7000 visitors.
February

Chinese New Year Firecrackers, dancing dragons and

Chinese feasts mark this festival, which is especially
popular in Fortitude Valley.
Tropfest (www.tropfest.com) Nationwide short-film
festival telecast live at the Suncorp Piazza at South Bank.
April

Queensland Winter Racing Carnival (www

.queenslandracing.com.au) From late April to late July
there are major horse-race meetings each weekend at
both Doomben and Eagle Farm Racecourses, including the
Brisbane Cup in mid-May.
June

Brisbane Pride Festival (www.pridebrisbane.org.au)

Brisbanes fabulously outrageous annual gay and lesbian
celebration held over three weeks.
Out of the Box (www.outoftheboxfestival.com.au)
Biennial festival of art for kids aged three to eight. Held on
even-numbered years.
July

Brisbane International Film Festival (www.biff.com

Araucaria Ecotours (%5544 1283; www.learnabout

.au) Ten days of quality films in July.

wildlife.com; adult/child from $88/58) Eco-certified

naturalist-led tours that range from Bushwalking in Brisbane to three-day wilderness tours (from $396) in the Mt
Barney National Park area. It also offers a budget camping
weekend ($132).
Aries Tours (%5594 9933; www.ariestours.com;
adult/child from $130/65) Another eco-certified operation offering a host of tours, including the glow-worm
tour, night safari tour and eco-friendly wine-making tour,
departing from Brisbane and the Gold Coast.
Boots AWalkin (%3398 2404; www.bootsawalkin
.com.au) Bushwalking day tours ($60 per person) in the
Lamington National Park area or five-day packages ($890)
exploring Mt Barney National Park.
Bushwacker Ecotours (%1300 559 355, 3871 0057;
www.bushwacker-ecotours.com.au; adult/child from
$109/89) Day tours and overnight trips to Lamington and
Springbrook National Parks led by eco-guides.

Queensland Music Festival (www.queensland

musicfestival.com.au) A state-wide celebration of world
music held over two weeks in July on odd-numbered
years.
August

Ekka Royal National Agricultural Show (www

.ekka.com.au) Queenslands largest annual event, the
Ekka is one of the top three agricultural shows in Australia
and celebrates the states lifestyle, industry and heritage.
September

Brisbane Riverfestival (www.riverfestival.com.au)

Brisbanes major festival of the arts, with buskers, performances, music and concerts held over 10 days.
National Festival of Beers (www.nfb.com.au) Another
Story Bridge Hotel (see p317) classic, this lively event runs
for three days in mid-September.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

BRISBANE FOR CHILDREN

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312 B R I S B A N E S l e e p i n g

Valley Fiesta (www.valleyfiesta.com.au) Brisbanes

biggest free festival of music and the arts held over three
days in Fortitude Valley.
October
Livid (www.livid.com.au) Annual one-day alternative
rock festival.

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

the 3- and 4-star units at this modern

complex. Choose the cheaper option and
youll get an older-style apartment with basic
facilities. Pay a bit more however, and youll
be rewarded with a chi-chi pad packed with
mod cons.
B&BS

December

Christmas Festival (www.south-bank.net.au) Three

days of festive cheer held during the week before
Christmas at South Bank.

Brisbane has accommodation options to suit

all tastes and budgets. The city centre offers
mainly expensive options, but there is a broad
variety within walking distance or with good
public-transport connections.
The inner suburbs have their own distinct
flavours. Spring Hill, just north of the city centre, is quiet and unassuming whereas Fortitude Valley, home to Brisbanes best nightlife,
never sleeps. New Farm, southeast beyond the
Valley, is a mix of peaceful suburbia and the
upwardly mobile. West of the city, Petrie Terrace and Paddington are busy with upmarket
bohemian cafs and boutique shops. And the
West End, south of the river, has an air of
nonchalant cool about it.
The main motel drags are Wickham St
(Fortitude Valley) and Gregory Tce (Spring
Hill), on the northern edge of the city, and
Main St (Kangaroo Point), which is also the
link road to the southern Gold Coast Hwy.
The Brisbane Visitors Accommodation
Service (p296) has a free booking service, and
brochures and information on hostels and
other budget options in Brisbane and up
and down the coast.

Budget
APARTMENTS

Dorchester Self-Contained Units (Map pp300-1; %3831

2967; www.dorchesterinn.com.au; 484 Upper Edward St, Spring
Hill; s/d/tr $75/85/100; pa) The rooms here are

basic but functional and more than adequate

if youre looking for no-frills accommodation.
Whats more, your hosts are simply charming
and more than make up for the otherwise
sterile atmosphere.
Kangaroo Point Apartments (Map pp298-9;
%1800 676 855, 3391 6855; www.kangaroopoint.com;
819 Main St, Kangaroo Point; apt per night/week from $88/450;
pas) Theres a big difference between

HOSTELS

Somewhere to Stay (Map pp298-9; %1800 812 398,

3846 2858; www.somewheretostay.com.au; 47 Brighton Rd,
West End; dm $19-25, s from $36, tw & d $47-67; is)

This enormous white Queenslander, fringed

by palm trees, is gloriously cool in the summer months. Set on a hill, most rooms come
with large, private balconies and awesome
cityscape views. Rooms are simple but clean
and the vibe very casual.
Brisbane Backpackers Resort (Map pp298-9;
%1800 626 452, 3844 9956; www.brisbanebackpackers.
com.au; 110 Vulture St, West End; dm $21-27, tw & d $67-71;
pais) Folks rave about this cavern-

ous hostel that can sleep over two hundred

people. TVs, en suite bathrooms and private
balconies are just some of the perks; the others include a large swimming pool and free
car parking. Its also brilliantly placed for
South Bank.
oYellow Submarine (Map pp298-9; %3211
3424; www.yellowsubmarinebackpackers.com; 66 Quay St,
Petrie Tce; dm $23-25, tw/d $54/60; is) This de-

lightful hostel is set within a ramshackle

historical home and what it might lack in
modern gadgets (ie air-con) it more than
makes up for in character. Creaky staircases,
winding corridors and large bedrooms all add
to the homely feel of the place. The lovely Judy
can also help you find work.
Banana Benders Backpackers (Map pp298-9; %1800
241 157, 3367 1157; www.bananabenders.com; 118 Petrie Tce,
Petrie Tce; dm $24-27, tw & d $60, 1-bedroom apt from $350;
i) A cheery old-school hostel with a breezy

balcony perfect for cocktail hour. The dorms

are plenty big enough and the communal
bathrooms squeaky clean. Theres a job club
here and the hostel is also a WWOOF (Willing
Workers on Organic Farms) agent.

B R I S B A N E S l e e p i n g 313

Bunk Backpackers (Map pp300-1; %1800 682

865; www.bunkbrisbane.com.au; cnr Ann & Gipps Sts, Fortitude Valley; dm $25-28, s $70, d & tw $85, loft apt from
$125; pais) The citys slickest hostel

bed linen easier to ignore. All rooms come

with TV and bar fridge.

can be found in this imposing tower located

smack bang in the middle of Brissies nightlife.
Wooden floors, high ceilings and en suites
make it feel more boutique than backpacker
and the swanky bar is full every night with
trendy types out on the razzle.
Palace Backpackers (Map pp300-1; %1800 676 340,

APARTMENTS

3211 2433; www.palacebackpackers.com.au; cnr Ann & Edward Sts, Brisbane; dm $25-30, s $45-89, tw $32.50-37.50, d
$65-89; ai) The only hostel in the city, the

Palace is a popular spot for folks just passing

through Brisbane. Theres a whiff of faded
grandeur to the place but its very friendly
and manages to keep the party atmosphere
going year-round.
More budget options:
Cloud 9 (Map pp298-9; %1800 256 839, 3236 2300;
www.cloud9backpackers.com.au; 350 Upper Roma St, Petrie
Tce; dm $17-25, s $65-67, tw $69-71; i) Newly designed,
modern hostel; some of the larger dorms lack windows.
Tinbilly (Map pp300-1; %1800 446 646, 3238 5888;
www.tinbilly.com; 462 George St, Brisbane; dm $25-28, tw
& d $89; ai) Brightly coloured hostel with excellent
job club.
Aussie Way Hostel (Map pp298-9; %3369 0711;
http://users.bigpond.net.au/aussieway; 34 Cricket St,
Petrie Tce; dm/s/d $26/45/62; a) Quirky hostel in an old
colonial home.

Midrange
Dahrl Court Apartments (Map pp300-1; %3830 3400;
www.dahrlcourt.com.au; 45 Phillips St, Spring Hill; s & d $110,
f apt $130, 1-/2-bedroom town house $135/145; pa)

These elegant self-contained apartments

tucked away in a leafy corner of Spring Hill
are easily the best in town. Tastefully decorated with modern kitchen appliances and designer bathrooms, they offer incredible value
for money. For a private balcony or courtyard,
upgrade to one of the town houses.
Central Brunswick Apartments (Map pp300-1;
%3852 1411; www.centralbrunswickhotel.com.au; 455
Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley; r $120-140; pa) Perfect

for business types (or those with aspirations to

be), these modern serviced apartments scream
practicality. Everything you could possibly
need is on hand from laundry facilities to the
on-site gym; even babysitting services can
be arranged.
B&BS

Eton B&B (Map pp298-9; % 3511 6685; www.eton

.com.au; 436 Upper Roma St, Petrie Tce; s $95, d & tw $110-130,
1-bedroom apt per week $490; pa) This lovingly

Bowen Terrace (Map pp298-9; %3358 6860; www

restored colonial home, near Brisbanes transport hub, offers six elegant bedrooms (five
with en suites) all decorated in heritage style.
A breezy courtyard garden at the back of the
house is a lovely place to have breakfast.
Fern Cottage (Map p290-1; %3511 6685; www.ferncot

.bowentceaccommodation.com; 365 Bowen Tce, New Farm;

s/tr $36/66, d $46-58; pis) Originally built in

tage.net.au; 89 Fernberg Rd, Paddington; s/d from $105/$130;

a) This stylish B&B, housed within a charm-

1914, this old home has been restored to perfection by the friendly owners who acquired
the property just two years ago. Polished floorboards, spacious bedrooms and newly fitted
bathrooms make this a backpacker bargain.
Kookaburra Inn (Map pp300-1; %1800 733 533, 3832

ing Queenslander home, offers a range of

pretty bedrooms with individual outdoor
patios. Added extras such as the fluffy bathrobes and luxury skin-care products are winning touches.
Also recommended:
Willahra House (Map pp298-9; %3254 3485; 268

HOTELS

1303; www.kookaburra-inn.com.au; 41 Phillips St, Spring Hill;

s/d $40/60) A private hotel since 1932, this de-

ceptively spacious homestay still retains some

of the original period features. The 19 rooms
all come with ceiling fans and a fridge and the
shaded garden is lovely.
Acacia Inner-City Inn (Map pp300-1; %3832 1663; fax

Harcourt St, New Farm; s $90-120, d $110-135; pa)

Queenslander home with open balconies and pleasant rooms.
Ridge Haven B&B (%3391 7702; 374 Annerley Rd,
Annerley; s $120-140, d $130-150; pa) South of the
city, a gorgeous Victorian home filled with character.

3832 2591; 413 Upper Edward St, Petrie Tce; s/d incl breakfast
$60/75; pa) The singles here are very snug

HOTELS & MOTELS

and the imposing 70s-inspired bedspreads

dont help to make them feel bigger. The
doubles, however, are much roomier and the

.sohomotel.com.au; 333 Wickham Tce, Spring Hill; s from $89,

tw & d from $98; pai) Compact and nearly

Soho Motel (Map pp300-1; % 3831 7722; www

bijou, the rooms at this brownstone-esque

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

SLEEPING

Annies Shandon Inn (Map pp300-1; %3831 8684; 405

Upper Edward St, Spring Hill; s $55, d & tw $65-75) Part
country-kitchen, part heritage-kitsch, this
pale pink and baby blue B&B is a gloriously
kooky place somewhat reminiscent of staying with a mad great aunt. Its also very good
value for money.

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

314 B R I S B A N E E a t i n g

motel are a good option for shorter stays.

The private balconies arent large but they do
offer pleasing views over Wickham Park.
Il Mondo (Map pp300-1; %3392 0111; www.ilmondo
.com.au; 23-25 Rotherham St, Kangaroo Point; r $99-135, apt $135$435; pas) Although somewhat impersonal,

the rooms and self-contained units here have

been tastefully decorated with contemporary
furniture and bold lashings of colour. The higherend apartments come with river views.
Inchcolm Hotel (Map pp300-1; %3226 8888; www
.inchcolmhotel.com.au; 73 Wickham Tce, Spring Hill; r from
$140; pas) Who would have thought that a

3393 1444; www.paramountmotel.com.au; 649 Main St,

Kangaroo Point; s/d/tr $80/90/105; pas) Wellmaintained rooms popular with business folk and families.
Best Western Gregory Terrace (Map pp300-1; %3832
1769; http://gregoryterrace.bestwestern.com.au; 397
Gregory Tce, Spring Hill; r/f from $128/144; pas)
Simple, clean accommodation with good family rooms.

Top End
Quay West Suites Brisbane (Map pp300-1; %1800 672
726, 3853 6000; [email protected]; 132 Alice
St, Brisbane; apt from $205; pas) Most of the

apartments here are privately owned and have

been finished to a high standard. They come
with polished furniture, well-equipped kitchens and a private balcony. Those with views
over the City Botanic Gardens are especially
sought after.
Conrad Treasury (Map pp300-1; %1800 506 889,
3306 8888; www.conradtreasury.com.au; 130 William St,
Brisbane; r from $295; pa) This beautiful build-

ing once housed the Land Administration

offices and has been carefully restored to its
former opulent grandeur. The individually
designed rooms are impressive and boast polished wood and marble, rich furnishings and
beds you could get lost in.
Also recommended:
Rydges South Bank Brisbane (Map pp300-1;
%1300 857 922, 9261 4929; reservations_rydges@
rydges.com; 9 Glenelg St, South Bank; r from $235;
pa) Understated yet elegant accommodation
perfectly situated for art aficionados.
Stamford Plaza Brisbane (Map pp300-1; %3221
1999; www.stamford.com.au/spb; cnr Edward & Margaret

Sts, Brisbane; r from $299; pas) Luxury rooms that

benefit from lots of space, excellent views and regular deals.

Camping & Caravanning

Newmarket Gardens Caravan Park (Map p297; %3356
1458; www.newmarketgardens.com.au; 199 Ashgrove Ave,
Ashgrove; powered sites $25-27, unpowered sites $24-25, caravans $42, cabins $76-96; pai) Just 4km north of

the city centre, this is a pretty park although

it lacks good tree coverage. The facilities are
top notch and include clean bathrooms, barbecues and TVs, plus linen hire. The cabins
are simple yet functional and some are wheelchair friendly. Buses to the city centre stop
right outside.

EATING
The more swanky (and pricey) dining options
can be found in the CBD. Fortitude Valley and
New Farm offer a range of eateries from cheap
pizza to ethnic eats while the West End boasts
some of Brisbanes most delicious breakfast
institutions. Try Petrie Terrace and Paddington for arty and organic cafs. Most of the
cafs in the CBD are closed at weekends.

City Centre
Govindas (Map pp300-1; %3210 0255; 1st fl, 99 Elizabeth
St; Sun feast $5, all you can eat $9; hlunch Mon-Sat, dinner
Fri, Sun feast from 5pm) For knock-your-socks-off

vegetarian curry at traveller-friendly prices

try this Hare Krishna eatery that also serves
snacks, salads and stews.
Java Coast Caf (Map pp300-1; %3211 3040; 340
George St; dishes $6-12; hbreakfast & lunch Mon-Fri) This
is the perfect place for that morning caffeine
kick, and for enormous muffins, fresh fruit
salads and simple lunches. Enjoy it all in the
sun-filled garden.
Metro Caf (Map pp300-1; %3221 3181; 83 Albert
St; dishes $6-12; hbreakfast & lunch Mon-Sat) A small,
no-nonsense diner serving up generous breakfasts and piping hot coffee for busy folk on the
go, as well as burgers, soups and sandwiches
for lunch.
Verve Caf (Map pp300-1; %3221 5691; 109 Edward
St; mains $15-20; hlunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat) Youll
find a cool, arty crowd hanging out at this
underground bar-caf-restaurant that creates
very good modern Italian food accompanied
by some fine wines. On Thursday there is live
music and a DJ spins tunes at the weekend.
Customs House Brasserie (Map pp300-1; %3365
8921; 399 Queen St; mains $20-27; hbreakfast Sun, lunch
daily, dinner Tue-Sat) If youre only going to splash

lonelyplanet.com

B R I S B A N E E a t i n g 315

out once while in town, do it here, where the

river view is so good that you wont even notice whats on the menu. So take it from us, the
seared scallops with lime and pink peppercorn
butter sauce, and the roast lamb loin with
caramelised beetroot, are simply divine.
Ecco (Map pp300-1; %3831 8344; 100 Boundary St; mains
from $30; hlunch Tue-Fri, dinner Tue-Sat) This modern Australian bistro, set within a converted
tea warehouse near the Story Bridge, has won
dozens of awards for its innovative cuisine. If
you know your porcinis from your truffles and
your purees from your consomms, then youre
guaranteed to love this place.
Youll find food courts (Map pp300-1; dishes $58; h9am-5pm) serving up global fare such as
sushi, stir-fries and sandwiches on the ground
floor of the Wintergarden Centre and also on
Level E of the Myer Centre.

thats especially good value for large groups.

Pick up your grog from the bottle shop across
the road.
Mecca Bah (Map pp298-9; %3252 5299; 1000 Ann St,
Fortitude Valley; mains $15-25; hlunch & dinner) You
cant book at this swanky Middle Easternthemed restaurant, but thats OK because they
serve great cocktails while you wait. If youre
with friends then choose a pile of dishes to
share: the Lebanese sausages and chickpeabattered mussels are particularly yummy, as
are the lamb pizzas.
Vespa Pizza (Map pp298-9; %3358 4100; 148 Merthyr
Rd, New Farm; mains $18-20; hdinner) Perfect for the
more discerning pizza lover is this trendy joint
that prides itself on its original toppings. Never
tried a sesame chicken, yoghurt and mango
chutney pizza before? You have now.
Watt (Map pp298-9; %3358 5464; River Tce, Brisbane

Fortitude Valley & New Farm

Powerhouse, 119 Lamington St, New Farm; dishes $20-36;

hbreakfast Sat & Sun, lunch & dinner Tue-Sun) The river-

New York Slice (Map pp300-1; %3252 0888; 360 Brunswick

St, Fortitude Valley; mains $4-8; hlunch Fri & Sat, dinner
daily) These enormous slices of tasty pizza are

perfect for everyone from budget-conscious

travellers to clubbers on their way home in
the early hours of the morning.
Wok On Inn (Map pp298-9; %3254 2546; 728 Brunswick
St, New Farm; dishes around $8; hlunch & dinner) Steaming plates of noodles plus satays and soups are
served up at this simple eatery.
BurgerUrge (Map pp300-1; %3254 1655; 542 Brunswick St, New Farm; dishes $8-12; hlunch Sat & Sun, dinner
daily) This burger bar might be small but it

makes a monster beef patty. There are also

Portobello mushroom, chicken and lamb
burgers on the menu.
Little Larder (Map pp298-9; %3358 2024; 76 Moray
St, New Farm; dishes $8-15; hbreakfast & lunch daily, dinner Fri & Sat) Its worth searching out this lovely

caf, and not just because it makes damn fine

coffee. Try the thick French toast or pesto
scrambled eggs and youll soon understand
what all the real fuss is about.
Continental Caf (Map pp298-9; %3254 0377; 21
Barker St, New Farm; dishes $10-20; hbreakfast Sat & Sun,
lunch & dinner daily) Another popular weekend

breakfast haunt is this Parisian-themed caf. It

also sees diners queuing up mid-week hungry
for a piece of nostalgia from the Continental
Classics menu.
Tibetan Kitchen (Map pp300-1; %3358 5906; 454
Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley; mains $15-22; hdinner) Traditional Tibetan, Sherpa and Nepalese food is
dished up here in this colourful restaurant

side setting near New Farm Park makes this the

perfect place for a leisurely breakfast, lunch or
dinner. The menu is modern but with Asian,
Middle Eastern and European influences and
the desserts especially the sticky black rice
with grilled banana and coconut ice cream
are to die for.
For fresh fruit and veggies theres a great produce market inside McWhirters Marketplace (Map
pp300-1; cnr Brunswick & Wickham Sts) in the Valley.
Also recommended:
Fatboys Caf (Map pp300-1; %3252 3789; 323 Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley; mains $4-16) Reputedly home to
Brisbanes best hangover-curing breakfast.
Thai Wi-Rat (Map pp300-1; %3257 0884; Shop 48,
Duncan St, Fortitude Valley; dishes $10-16; hlunch &
dinner) Recommended for its rich curries, spicy Thai salads
and tangy noodles.

South Bank
Caf San Marco (Map pp300-1; %3846 4334; South Bank
Parklands; mains $17-25; hlunch & dinner) This place
by the river has an interesting menu that includes everything from Hervey Bay scallops to
marinated dolmades. Its a friendly spot and
there are some good kid-friendly options.
Theres a small outdoor food court (Map pp3001; South Bank Parklands), where you can pick up a
cheapie lunch ($10 and under).

West End
Happy Days (Map pp298-9; %3844 5444; 70 Boundary St;
dishes $6-10; hlunch & dinner) This no-nonsense
hole-in-the-wall serves up steaming Vietnamese

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

block of medical offices could be transformed

into a boutique hotel? Theres little to remind
you of the buildings clinical past but there are
some lovely period features, original art works
and an awesome rooftop swimming pool.
Also recommended:
Paramount Motel (Map pp300-1; %1800 636 772,

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

316 B R I S B A N E D r i n k i n g

and Chinese dishes in record time. Theres the

usual range of stir-fried rice and noodles, and
lots of veggie options.
Three Monkeys Coffee House (Map pp298-9; %3844
6045; 58 Mollison St; dishes $6-18) Hugely popular is
this cosy coffee den filled with comfy chairs
and cushions. The coffee and spicy chai come
in soup bowls and the cakes are delicious.
oGunshop Caf (Map pp298-9;%3844 2241;
53 Mollison St; dishes $8-26; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner TueSat, breakfast & lunch Sun) The exposed brick walls,

60s-inspired swirl cushions and wicker lampshades that sparkle like disco balls give this
place an upmarket retro feel. But cool dcor
aside, the food here is phenomenal. Theres
always something quirky on the menu
such as the smoked salmon with green ants
when we visited and the breakfasts are so
good theyve won awards.
Jazzy Cat Caf (Map pp298-9; %3846 2544; 56 Moltransformed into a funky caf with a reputation for a great veggie breakfast. The lunch
and dinner menus are just as popular and you
can bring your own booze.
Mondo Organics (Map pp298-9; %3844 1132; 166
Hardgrave Rd; dishes $16-34; hlunch Wed-Sat, dinner
Tue-Sat) A beautifully designed space encom-

passing dark woods, crisp white linens and

stone flooring, it serves as the stage for mouthwatering, innovative dishes created using entirely organic produce. It also runs a cooking
school for those who really love the food.
Tukka (Map pp298-9;%3846 6333; 145b Boundary
St; mains $24-30; hlunch Sun, dinner Tue-Sun) One of
Brisbanes most famous speciality restaurants,
Tukka prides itself on delivering new wave
Australian. If you fancy dining on emu fillet, seared Tasmanian wallaby or kangaroo
carpaccio then this is the place to come.

Woolloongabba

fun 70s-style caf filled with op-shop tables,

battered vinyl sofas and crochet cushions.
Breakfast is served all day but there are also
comfort foods such as sandwiches, burgers
and bangers and mash.
Sassafras (Map pp298-9; %3369 0600; 88 Latrobe Tce;
dishes $10-20; hbreakfast & lunch) A sunny caf with
a hippy flavour, this place buzzes at weekends.
Try the Dr Seussinspired green eggs and ham
or any of the beatnik favourites such as scrambled tofu or chickpea and fennel cakes.
Kookaburra Caf (Map pp298-9; %3369 2400; 280
Given Tce; meals $12-25; hlunch & dinner) Its the enormous pizzas that draw folk here; that and the
gourmet sandwiches, spag bol and old-school
trifle. Take it away or dine in the cheery outdoor courtyard.
The bistros at the Caxton Hotel (Map pp2989; %3369 5544; 38 Caxton St; mains $15-25; hlunch &
dinner) and the Paddo Tavern (Map pp298-9; %3369
0044; 186 Given Tce; mains $8-15; hlunch & dinner) serve

good pub grub.

Breakfast Creek
Breakfast Creek Hotel (Map p297; %3262 5988; 2
Kingsford Smith Dr; dishes $13-17, steaks $20-25; hlunch
& dinner) Undoubtedly the most famous water-

ing hole in Brisbane, this beautiful building is

a local institution. Its been serving up juicy
steaks for hungry carnivores since 1969 and
prides itself on being one of the few pubs left
in Australia to serve beer off the wood (from
wooden casks).

Self-Catering
Theres a Coles Express (Map pp300-1; Queen St) and a
Woolworths (Map pp300-1; Edward St) in the city centre. In Fortitude Valley, theres a Foodworks (Map
pp300-1; Brunswick St Station Mall) as you exit the train
station, and a great produce market inside
McWhirters Marketplace (Map pp300-1; cnr Brunswick
& Wickham Sts).

Bens Vietnamese & Chinese Restaurant (Map pp298-9;

DRINKING

%3391 3233; 1st fl, 14 Annerley Rd; dishes $16-23; hlunch

& dinner) Theres a reason why people flock to

The Valley has been Brisbanes nightlife mecca

for decades and is crowded with busy bars,
super clubs and live music venues. Another
spot gaining Saturday night credibility is the
West End. Drinking spots within the city
centre cater mainly to suits and get busier as
the weekend draws near, but at weekends the
centre is empty.
Bowery (Map pp300-1; %3252 0202; 676 Ann St, Fortitude Valley) The Bowery is reputed to be the
best cocktail bar in town and rightly so the

this Asian diner at weekends and its not just

for the food. Up to 300 people come here on
Friday and Saturday nights drawn by a shared
love of spring rolls and karaoke. Everyone
and we mean everyone gets up to sing.

Paddington
Pandemonium Caf (Map pp298-9; %3369 4420; 215
Given Tce; dishes $7-15; hbreakfast & lunch) This is a

lonelyplanet.com

bartenders take their spirits very seriously

here. Fancy a whisky? There are so many to
choose from that theyre listed by region. Live
jazz plays during the week.
Belgian Beer Caf (Map pp300-1; %3221 0199; cnr
Edward & Mary Sts, Brisbane) Explore Belgiums finest contribution to world development here
in this brassy, beer-centric pub. There are 30
Belgian nectars to sample with Hoegaarden,
Leffe Blonde and others on tap. For something a little stronger try one of the abbey
beers that were created by monks in the early
18th century.
Alibi Room (Map pp300-1; % 3358 6133; 720
Brunswick St, New Farm) The wonderfully wacky
Alibi Room looks like it was designed by
Hunter S Thompson. Once you see the
Hawaiian trinkets, pop-culture curios and
in-house waterfall, youll understand what
we mean.
Dooleys (Map pp300-1; %3252 4344; 394 Brunswick St,
Fortitude Valley) Dooleys is a good old-fashioned
Irish pub without the theme bar gimmicks. Its
great fun, especially on karaoke night when
the place goes wild.
Pavilion (Map pp298-9 ; %3844 6272; 123 Boundary
St, West End) With a bar, caf, bistro and cavernous pool hall, theres something to amuse
everyone here. Its especially popular with the
20- to 30-something crowd.
Lychee Lounge (Map pp298-9; %3864 0544; 2/94
Boundary St, West End) Another fabulous cocktail
bar favoured by the well-dressed, this chi-chi
joint is especially popular on Sundays. Folk
come here in the hope that the mixologists
magic will carry them through to closing time,
and it generally does.
GPO (Map pp300-1; %3252 1322; 740 Ann St, Fortitude
Valley) The dressed up old Valley post office
is somewhat down at heel but still pulls in a
gay-friendly, good-looking crowd that likes
to party into the wee hours. DJs play at the
weekend and the dance floor gets hot and
sweaty.
Caxton Hotel (Map pp298-9; %3369 5544; 38 Caxton
St, Petrie Tce) One of Brisbanes oldest licensed
premises, the Caxton is still a crowd pleaser
and buzzes on Friday and Saturday nights. Its
home to the Queensland Reds rugby team so
expect lots of sport on the TVs.
Sportsmans Hotel (Map pp300-1; %3831 2892;
130 Leichhardt St, Spring Hill) Another popular gay
venue, this no-frills pub has nightly shows,
karaoke, dancing, pool tables and a lively,
friendly atmosphere.

B R I S B A N E E n t e r t a i n m e n t 317

Other places to wet your whistle:

Kitty OSheas (Map pp298-9; %3368 1933; 25 Caxton
St, Petrie Tce) Any hint of pretensions are left at the door
of this atmospheric pub that serves up pints of the good
stuff Guinness and Kilkenny. Theres live music at the
weekends.
Story Bridge Hotel (Map pp300-1; %3391 2266; 200
Main St, Kangaroo Point) There are three lively bars set
within this beautiful old pub, including a beer garden.
Down Under Bar & Grill (Map pp300-1; %3211 9277;
cnr Ann & Edward Sts, Brisbane) This backpacker haunt,
located under the Palace Backpackers, has nightly drinking
games and dancing on tables.

ENTERTAINMENT
Brisbane has a thriving performing arts scene
and nationally renowned clubs. Its also
threatening to rob Melbourne of its title as
Australias rock capital, owing to a growing
live music scene and an increasing number of
local acts making waves overseas.
For details of whats on, pick up one of
the free entertainment papers Time Off (www
.timeoff.com.au), Rave (www.ravemag.com
.au) and Scene (www.sceneonline.com.au).
The fortnightly Q news (www.qnews.com.au)
covers events on the gay and lesbian scene and
Queensland Pride takes in the whole of the
state. Another good source of information is
www.brisbane247.com.
The Courier-Mail has daily arts and entertainment listings and a comprehensive
Whats On In Town section in each Thursdays newspaper.
Ticketek (%13 19 31; http://premier.ticketek.com.au)
is a centralised phone-booking agency that
handles bookings for many of the major events,
sports and performances. You can pick up tickets from the Ticketek booth (Map pp300-1; Elizabeth St),
at the back of the Myer Centre, or at the South
Bank visitor information centre (Map pp300-1; 3867 2051;
Stanley Street Plaza, South Bank Parklands).

Nightclubs
Brisbanes major clubs are in the Valley. Be
aware that theres been an increased police
presence of late with drug-sniffer dogs targeting clubbers queuing to get inside. Clubs are
generally open Thursday to Sunday night and
charge $8 to $15 entry unless a big-name DJ
is playing, when tickets skyrocket. Photo ID
is an absolute and remember that some places
are sticklers for dress codes.
Family (Map pp300-1; %3852 5000; 8 McLachlan
St, Fortitude Valley) Family is something of an

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lison St; mains $10-20; hbreakfast Sat & Sun, lunch & dinner
daily) This pretty Queenslander home has been

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institution in Brisbane and goes off without

fail every weekend. Its an enormous space
with four levels, three different sounds, an
ice bar and funky genie bottle-shaped booths.
Its twice been voted Australias best club
and has seen major international DJs such
as Roger Sanchez and Carl Cox grace the
decks.
Alhambra Lounge (Map pp300-1; %3216 0226; 12
McLachlan St, Fortitude Valley) Next door to Family,
this place caters to clubbers who have outgrown their glow sticks. Themed around a
Spanish castle, the dark red interiors are filled
with sofas and private booths and the music
is very, very funky.
Empire (Map pp300-1; %3852 1216; 339 Brunswick St,
Fortitude Valley) Another hugely popular place,
the emphasis at this multilevel club is less on
swanky dcor and more on jumping around
and having a good time in a nonchalant kind
of way of course. The downstairs Corner Bar
is a lively place to start your evening.
Uber (Map pp298-9; %3846 6680; 100 Boundary St, West
End) Brisbanes newest club is a super-stylish
affair filled with super-stylish people. The
design is pure glamour with copper, stainless
steel and dark wood making it feel more like
a boutique hotel than a nightclub. The music
changes nightly but the weekends are dedicated to pure main-room house music.
The Beat Mega Club (Map pp300-1; %3852 2661; 677
Ann St, Fortitude Valley) Five dance floors, six bars
and hardcore techno equals the perfect place
for dance junkies who like their beats hard. Its
also popular with the gay and lesbian crowd
and there are regular drag performances and
nightly shows.
Wickham Hotel (Map pp300-1; %3852 1301; 308 Wickham St, Fortitude Valley) This is the most popular
gay and lesbian venue in town, with nightly
shenanigans including pole dancing lessons
and best butt competitions. From Thursday
night onwards the music and crowd are fabulous and debauched.

Cinemas
Both the Dendy Cinema (Map pp300-1; %3211 3244;
346 George St, Brisbane) and Palace Centro (Map pp300-1;
%3852 4488; 39 James St, Fortitude Valley) play good
art-house films. The cheapest cinema for
mainstream flicks is South Bank Cinema (Map
pp300-1; %3846 5188; cnr Grey & Ernest Sts, South Bank).
Catch an outdoor flick at the Brisbane
Powerhouse (Map pp298-9; www.brisbanepowerhouse
.org; 119 Lamington St, New Farm) during the sum-

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mer months courtesy of the Moonlight Cinema

(%1300 551 908; www.moonlight.com.au).
Mainstream cinemas on Queen St Mall:
Birch, Carroll & Coyle (Map pp300-1; %3027 9999;

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Also recommended:
QUT Gardens Theatre (Map pp300-1; %3138

Level 3, Myer Centre, Queen St Mall, Brisbane) Mainstream

blockbusters.
Hoyts Regent Theatre (Map pp300-1; %3027 9999;
167 Queen St, Brisbane) A lovely old cinema worth visiting
for the building alone.

4455; Queensland University of Technology, 2 George St,

Brisbane; p) Touring productions plus shows from the
universitys performing companies.
Brisbane Arts Theatre (Map pp298-9; %3369 2344;
210 Petrie Tce, Petrie Tce) An eclectic range of live theatre
ranging from Charlie and the Chocolate Factory to the more
saucy Steaming.

Theatre

Live Music

South Bank is home to the majority of Brisbanes theatre venues, but there are a couple
of theatrical heavyweights in New Farm and
Fortitude Valley. The Queensland Cultural
Centre has a 24-hour phone line (%13 62 46)
that handles bookings for events at South
Bank theatres and other venues and events
nationally.
Queensland Performing Arts Centre (Map pp300-1;

In 2006 Brisbane was named by a US music

industry magazine as one of its five international music hot spots, but all good musos
know that the city has been producing influential acts for decades now. The 70s punk
band The Saints, seminal indie rock outfit The
Go-Betweens and pop duo Savage Garden call
Brisbane home and even the Bee Gees spent
some of their formative years here. More recently, rockers Powderfinger, hip hop outfit
Butterfingers and pop princesses The Veronicas have all achieved national (and some international) success. Cover charges start at about
$6 for local acts and go up from there.
Zoo (Map pp300-1; %3854 1381; 711 Ann St, Fortitude
Valley) A grungy institution that has been going
for aeons, it is one of the best places to see
great live music without paying top dollar.
The acts range from hip hop, rock and dub to
acoustic, folk and reggae, and the justifiably
popular Jazz on a Sunday Vibe.
Rics Caf (Map pp300-1; %3854 1772; 321 Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley) This is a great place to
check out some local acts and its where a
lot of bands get their first break. Youll hear
everything from pure rock to an experimental three-piece. Upstairs is a small club with
DJs.
Troubadour (Map pp300-1; %3252 2626; Level 2, 322
Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley) The Troubadour is an
intimate, boutique venue that sees numerous
local, interstate and international acts perform, including a lot of solo artists.
Tongue & Groove (Map pp298-9; %3846 0334; 63
Hardgrave Rd, West End) This cool but unpretentious
subterranean bar boasts an eclectic line-up of
music including blues, jazz and funk. Youll
even hear killer dance beats at times. Top billing is given to local bands and performers.
Tivoli (Map pp298-9; %3852 1711; 52 Costin St, Fortitude Valley) This old Art Deco building hosts national and international bands such as Gomez
and Damien Rice, as well as a smattering of
comedy acts.

%3840 7444; www.qpac.com.au; cnr Grey & Melbourne Sts,

South Bank; p) Theres something for every-

one at this centre that has four venues and a

packed calendar. Choose from international
comedy acts, blockbuster musicals, dance,
orchestral performances or an evening at the
theatre.
Brisbane Powerhouse (Map pp298-9; %3358 8622,
box office 3358 8600; www.brisbanepowerhouse.org; 119
Lamington St, New Farm; pa) Brisbanes most

dynamic arts venue once powered the largest

tram network in the southern hemisphere and
the industrial textures, complete with graffitied walls, remain today. Live music, edgy
comedy and risqu theatre are performed
within this unique space.
Judith Wright Centre of Contemporary Arts
(Map pp300-1; %3872 9000; www.jwcoca.qld.gov.au; 420
Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley) A creative space dedi-

cated to showcasing contemporary dance and

music, indigenous theatre, youth arts, circus
and visual arts.
Queensland Conservatorium (Map pp300-1; %3735
6241; 16 Russell St, South Bank) South of the Performing Arts Centre at South Bank, this conservatorium presents around 200 performances
a year including jazz, classical and opera. It
acts as a showcase for the talent of attending
students.
La Boite Theatre Company (Map pp298-9; %13
62 46; www.laboite.com.au; Roundhouse Theatre, 6-8
Musk Ave, Kelvin Grove) A contemporary theatre

company that produces intimate plays with

a strong focus on works by Queensland
playwrights.

B R I S B A N E S h o p p i n g 319

Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre (Map

pp300-1; %3308 3000; cnr Merivale & Glenelg Sts, South
Bank; p) Brisbanes largest multifunctional
entertainment complex hosts everything
from Little Britain Live to international motor
shows.
More music venues:
Brisbane Powerhouse (Map pp298-9; %3358 8600;
119 Lamington St, New Farm) Has live music on Sunday
afternoons.
Brisbane Jazz Club (Map pp300-1; %3391 2006; 1
Annie St, Kangaroo Point; cover $8-12) Big band, swing
and contemporary jazz get folk hopping. Free dance classes
are held on the first Friday of every month from 6pm.
Rev (Map pp300-1; %3852 3373; 25 Warner St,
Fortitude Valley) Smallish venue with a spotlight on the
indie music scene.

Sport
Nothing marks the start of summer quite like
the thwack of leather on willow and you can
catch interstate and international (test) cricket
matches at the Gabba (Map pp298-9; %3008 6166;
www.thegabba.org.au; Vulture St, Woolloongabba) between
October and March.
During the other half of the year rugby
league is the big spectator sport. The Brisbane
Broncos play home games at Suncorp Stadium
(Map pp298-9; %3331 5000; www.suncorpstadium.com
.au; Castlemaine St, Milton), which also hosts inter-

national tests and fiercely contested State of

Origin matches against NSW every year.
Also calling Suncorp home are the Queensland Reds, the states rugby union team that
contests the Super 14 competition against provincial sides from Australia, New Zealand and
South Africa between January and May.
The Brisbane Lions are the big Australian
Football League (AFL) team here and theyve
been whooping major southern butt, winning the flag in 2001, 2002 and 2003. Watch
them in action at a home game at the Gabba
between March and September.

SHOPPING
Everything else in Brisbane might be thriving
but the same cant be said for its shopping.
Mostly on offer are large chain stores, generic
malls and lots of tourist tat; the majority of
which can be found around the Queen St Mall
in the CBD. That said, there are a few gems if
youre willing to search them out.
Australian Indigenous Tribal Galleries (The Basement; Map pp300-1; %3236 1700; 376 George St, Brisbane)

A lot of the art here has been painted on site

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318 B R I S B A N E E n t e r t a i n m e n t

by local emerging and established indigenous

artists. The other works come with a certificate
of authenticity and the money goes straight
back to the artist.
Blonde Venus (Map pp300-1; %3216 1735; 707 Ann
St, Fortitude Valley) For designer duds head to this
boutique that stocks Australian labels Zimmerman, Akira and Morrissey. It also holds a
good range of up-and-coming designers.
CQStore (Map pp300-1; %3215 0808; 381 Brunswick
St, Fortitude Valley; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat) One-off
and obscure pieces made by Queensland and
Australian designers. Everything from collectable homewares and wearable accessories
to ceramics and jewellery are housed in one
creative wonderland.
Dogstar (Map pp300-1; %3852 2555; 713 Ann St, Fortitude Valley) Originally from Japan but brought
up in Brisbane, this designer has been instrumental in shaping the local fashion industry.
Her collections are based on a distinct structured look, with more than a hint of oriental
influence, and incorporate beautiful fabrics
such as silk and linen.
Emporium (Map pp298-9; 1000 Ann St, Fortitude Valley) This is Brisbanes newest retail outlet and
its brimming with boutique shops, gourmet
delis and eateries. Noosa Longboards stocks
some classic surf prints as well as beach wear
and Timbuktu to Kathmandu sells ethnic and
contemporary jewellery.
Globe Trekker (Map pp300-1; %3221 4476; 140 Albert
St) Good selection of outdoor gear including shoes, backpacks, maps and camping
equipment.
Museum of Brisbane Store (Map pp300-1; %3403
4355; Museum of Brisbane, ground fl, City Hall, King George Sq;
h10am-5pm) The museums in-house shop is

a fabulous showcase for local artists and you

can pick up unique jewellery pieces, ceramics,
childrens gifts and more.

Markets
Brisbanes markets are excellent and there are
plenty of them to explore.
Brunswick St Markets (Map pp300-1; Brunswick St Mall,
Fortitude Valley; h8am-4pm Sat & Sun) These come
to life at the weekend and are bursting with
young, cutting-edge fashion designers. Its
also good for one-of-a-kind accessories and
jewellery.
South Bank Lifestyles Market (Map pp300-1; South
Bank Parklands; h5-10.30pm Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun) This
tourist market is full of boomerangs, stuffed
kangaroos, tarot readers and opal traders.

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Green Flea Community Market (Map pp298-9; Davies

Park, cnr Montague Rd & Jane St, West End; h6am-2pm Sat)
A delightfully hippy market where organic
foods, gourmet stalls, herbs and flowers jostle
for space with secondhand clothing, bric-abrac and buskers.
Powerhouse Farmers Market (Map pp298-9; Brisbane
Powerhouse, 119 Lamington St, New Farm; h6am-noon, 2nd
& 4th Sat of the month) Sells fresh farm produce,

artisan products, meat, fish, cheese and more.

Its got an excellent reputation and is always
busy.
Other popular tourist options include the
Riverside Centre Market (Map pp300-1; Riverside Centre, Brisbane; h7am-4pm Sun) and the Eagle St Pier
Art & Craft Market (Map pp300-1; Eagle St Pier, Brisbane;
h8am-3pm Sun), which house over 150 craft
stalls, including glassware, metal work, photography and homemade jams.

GETTING THERE & AWAY

Air

Brisbanes main airport (Map p297) is about

16km northeast of the city centre at Eagle
Farm and has separate international and
domestic terminals about 2km apart, linked
by the Airtrain (%3215 5000; www.airtrain.com.au;
per person $4; hevery 15min, 6am-7.30pm). Its well
serviced and there are frequent flights to Asia,
Europe, Pacific Islands, North America, New
Zealand and Papua New Guinea. See p1020
for details of international airlines that service Brisbane.
Domestic airlines servicing Brisbane include Qantas (Map pp300-1; %13 13 13; www.qantas
.com.au; 247 Adelaide St, Brisbane; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri,
9am-1pm Sat), Virgin Blue (%13 67 89; www.virginblue
.com.au), Jetstar (%13 15 38; www.jetstar.com.au), Macair
(%1800 622 247; www.macair.com.au) and Sunshine Express (%13 13 13; www.sunshineexpress.com.au).

Bus
Brisbanes main terminus and booking office
for all long-distance buses and trains is the
Roma Street Transit Centre (Map pp300-1; Roma St, Brisbane), about 500m west of the city centre. The
centre has an accommodation booking service
and a backpackers employment service.
Youll find booking desks for the bus
companies on the third level of the centre.
Greyhound Australia (%13 14 99, 3236 3035; www
.greyhound.com.au) is the main company on the
SydneyBrisbane run ($116, 16 hours), but
Premier Motor Service (%13 34 10; www.premierms
.com.au) often has cheaper deals on this route.

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B R I S B A N E G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 321

You can also travel between Brisbane and

Melbourne ($170, 24 to 28 hours) or Adelaide
($250, 40 hours), although competitive airfares may enable you to fly for the same price
or less.
Destination
Airlie Beach
Bundaberg
Cairns
Hervey Bay
Longreach
Mackay
Mt Isa
Noosa Heads
Rockhampton
Surfers Paradise
Townsville

Price ($)
155
65
230
50
110
140
185
27
95
18
200

Duration (hr)
18
7
30
5
17
16
26
2
11
1
23

Car & Motorcycle

There are five major routes into and out of the
Brisbane metropolitan area, numbered from
M1 to M5. The major northsouth route, the
M1, connects the Pacific Hwy in the south
with the Bruce Hwy in the north, but things
get a bit confusing as you enter the city.
Coming from the Gold Coast, the Pacific
Hwy splits into two at Eight Mile Plains.
From here, the South East Freeway (M3)
runs right into the centre, skirting along the
riverfront on the western side of the CBD,
before emerging on the far side as the Gympie
Arterial Rd.
If youre just passing through, take the
Gateway Motorway (M1) at Eight Mile Plains,
which bypasses the city centre to the east and
crosses the Brisbane River at the Gateway
Bridge ($3 toll). From either direction, the
Eagle Farm exit on the northern side of the
bridge provides a quick route to Fortitude
Valley and the city centre. Just north is the
turn-off to Brisbane airport. The Gateway
Motorway and Gympie Arterial Rd meet in
Bald Hills, just south of the Pine River, and
merge to form the Bruce Hwy.
Heading inland, the Ipswich Motorway
(M2) branches off the M1 south of the centre,
and crosses the M3 before snaking off southwest to Ipswich and the Darling Downs. For a
quick route from the city, pick up Milton Rd
at the northwestern tip of the CBD and follow
it out to the M5, which runs south to meet the
Ipswich Motorway at Wacol (this is also the
way to Mt Coot-tha Reserve).

HIRE

All of the major companies Hertz (%13 30

39), Avis (%13 63 33), Budget (%1300 362 848),
Europcar (%1300 131 390) and Thrifty (%1300
367 227) have offices at the Brisbane airport
terminals and throughout the city.
There are also several smaller companies in
Brisbane, which advertise cheaper deals:
Abel Rent A Car (Map pp300-1; %1800 131 429,
3236 1225; www.abel.com.au; ground fl, Roma St Transit
Centre, Brisbane)
Ace Rental Cars (Map p297; %1800 620 408,
3862 2158; www.acerentals.com.au; 35 Sandgate Rd,
Albion)
Integra Network Car & Truck Rentals (Map pp300-1;
%1800 067 414, 3620 3200; www.abcintegra.com
.au; 398 St Pauls Tce, Fortitude Valley)

Train
The Roma St Transit Centre is Brisbanes
main station for long-distance trains. For
any information and reservations, call into
the Queensland Rail Travel Centre (%13 16 17;
www.qr.com.au; Central Station Map pp300-1; %3235 1323;
Ground fl, Central Station, 305 Edward St, Brisbane; h7am5pm Mon-Fri; Roma St Transit Centre Map pp300-1;%3235
1331; Roma St, Brisbane; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri). It is also

possible to make reservations online or over

the phone.
CountryLink (%13 22 32; www.countrylink.nsw.gov
.au; economy/1st class/sleeper $125/165/255) has a daily
XPT (express passenger train) service between Sydney and Brisbane. The northbound
service runs overnight, and the southbound
service runs during the day. Each takes 14
hours.
Services within Queensland:
Spirit of the Outback Brisbane to Longreach via
Rockhampton twice weekly (economy seat/economy
sleeper/1st-class sleeper $185/240/370, 26 hours).
Sunlander Brisbane to Cairns via Townsville (economy
seat/economy sleeper/1st-class sleeper/Queenslander
class $205/265/410/725, 30 hours). The exclusive
Queenslander class includes restaurant meals and historical commentary.
Tilt Train Brisbane to Cairns (business seat only $305,
25 hours) and Brisbane to Rockhampton (economy seat/
business seat $100/150, eight hours).
Westlander Brisbane to Charleville via Roma (economy
seat/economy sleeper/1st-class sleeper $100/160/240,
17 hours).

Concessions are available for children under

16 years, students with a valid ISIC card and
senior citizens.

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320 B R I S B A N E G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y

322 B R I S B A N E G e t t i n g A r o u n d

GETTING AROUND
Brisbane has one of the best public transport
networks in Australia. Information on bus,
train and ferry routes and connections can
be obtained from the Trans-Info Service (%13
Bus and ferry information is available at the
Brisbane Visitor Information Centre (p296),
the information centre at the Queen St Mall
bus station (Map pp300-1; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Thu,
8.30am-8pm Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) and the
Queensland Rail Travel Centres (p321).
Fares on buses, trains and ferries operate on
a zone system. There are 23 zones in total, but
the city centre and most of the inner-city suburbs fall within Zone 1, which translates into a
single fare of $2.20/1.10 per adult/child.
If youre going to be using public transport more than once on any single day, its
worth getting a daily ticket (per adult/child zone 1
$4.40/2.20, zone 2 $5.20/2.60, zone 3 $6/3), which allows
you unlimited transport on all buses, trains
and ferries.
You can also purchase off-peak daily tickets

east, and back. Stops along the way include

North Quay (for the Queen St Mall), South
Bank, Riverside (for the CBD) and New Farm
Park. The CityCats are wheelchair accessible at the University of Queensland, Guyatt
Park, North Quay, South Bank 1 and 2, and
Hawthorne.
Also useful are the Inner City Ferries, which
zigzag back and forth across the river between
North Quay, near the Victoria Bridge, and
Mowbray Park. Services start at 6am and run
till about 11pm. There are also several crossriver ferries; most useful is the Eagle St Pier to
Thornton St (Kangaroo Point) service.
Like all public transport, fares are based
on zones. Most stops youll need will be citybased and will therefore cost $2.20/1.10 per
adult/child for one trip.

Bus

The easiest way to get to and from the airport

is the Airtrain (%3216 3308; www.airtrain.com.au; per

The Loop, a free bus service that circles the

city area stopping at QUT, Queen St Mall,
City Botanic Gardens, Central Station and
Riverside runs every 10 minutes on weekdays between 7am and 6pm.
The main stop for local buses is in the underground Queen St Mall bus station (Map
pp3001), where theres an information centre. You can also pick up many buses from
the colour-coded stops along Adelaide St,
between George and Edward Sts.
Buses run every 10 to 20 minutes Monday
to Friday, from 5am till about 6pm, and with
the same frequency on Saturday morning
(starting at 6am). Services are less frequent
at other times, and cease at 9pm Sunday and
midnight on other days.

adult/child $12.50/6; hevery 15min, 6am-8pm Mon-Fri,

6am-7.30pm Sat & Sun), which runs between the

Car & Motorcycle

(per adult/child zone 1 $3.30/1.70, zone 2 $3.90/2, zone 3

$4.50/2.30), which allow unlimited transport but

only between 9am and 3.30pm and after 7pm

from Monday to Friday, and all weekend.
A Ten Trip Saver (per adult/child zone 1 $17.60/8.80,
zone 2 $20.80/10.40, zone 3 $24/12) gives you 10 trips
for the price of eight and is also valid on all
buses, trains and ferries.

To/From the Airport

airport and the Roma St Transit Centre and

Central Station. There are also half-hourly
services to the airport from Gold Coast
Citytrain stops. Coachtrans (%3238 4700; www
.coachtrans.com.au) runs the half-hourly Skytrans
tle bus between the airport, Brisbane and the
Gold Coast. A taxi into the centre from the
airport will cost around $30.

There is free two-hour parking on many streets

in the CBD and in the inner suburbs, but the
major thoroughfares become clearways (ie
parking is prohibited) during the morning and
afternoon peak hours. If you do park in the
street, pay close attention to the times on the
parking signs, as Brisbanes parking inspectors
take no prisoners. Parking is cheaper around
the South Bank than the city centre but is free
in the CBD during the evening.

Boat

Taxi

Brisbanes nippy blue CityCat catamarans run

every 20 to 30 minutes, between 5.50am and
10.30pm, from the University of Queensland
in the southwest to Bretts Wharf in the north-

Its easy to find a cab in Brisbane, particularly

around the city centre, and there are taxi ranks
at the transit centre and at the top end of Edward St, by the junction with Adelaide St.

(per adult/child to city $9/6, to city accommodation $11/7, to

Gold Coast accommodation $35/18; h5.45am-10pm) shut-

lonelyplanet.com

The two major taxi companies here are

Black & White (%13 10 08) and Yellow Cab Co
(%13 19 24).

Train
The fast Citytrain network has seven lines,
which run as far as Gympie North in the
north (for the Sunshine Coast) and Robina
in the south (for the Gold Coast). All trains
go through Roma St, Central and Brunswick
St Stations.

MORETON BAY
The clear waters of Moreton Bay stretch
125km from Caloundra to the Gold Coast
and are sprinkled with some 365 islands one
for every day of the year. The bay is separated
from the Pacific Ocean by four sand islands:
Moreton Island and Bribie Island to the north,
and North and South Stradbroke Islands towards the south. Its a beautiful area thats
home to some of Queenslands highlights
and a great diversity of marine life, including
the increasingly rare dugong. The two most
visited islands are Moreton Island, where
folk head to feed the dolphins, dive colourful
wrecks and indulge in 4WD adventures, and
North Stradbroke Island, which is home to
some good surf, stunning beaches and designer holiday homes.

Tours
Humpback whales are a regular sight in the
bay between June and November when they
migrate from Antarctica to their calving
grounds near the Great Barrier Reef.
Dolphin Wild (%07-3880 4444; www.dolphinwild
.com.au; per adult/child/family incl lunch $99/55/259)
Departing from Redcliffe, 35km north of Brisbane, these
full-day cruises come with commentary from the resident
naturalist and guided snorkel tours (adult/child $20/10)
around the Tangalooma wrecks or Flinders Reef.
Manly Eco Cruises (%07-3396 9400; www.manlyeco
cruises.com; per adult/child $99/44) Ride in the boom
nets, enjoy free canoe rides or sit back on the MV Getaway
and spot for marine life. The two-hour Sunday barbecue
breakfast tour is especially popular (adult/child $35/17).
Moreton Bay Escapes (%1300 559 355; www
.moretonbayescapes.com.au; per adult/child/family incl
lunch $129/109/319) A jam-packed day tour of Moreton
Island by an eco-certified operator that includes a luxury
cruise, 4WD adventure, sand boarding and tobogganing,
swimming and a picnic lunch.

M O R E T O N B AY N o r t h S t r a d b r o k e I s l a n d 323

NORTH STRADBROKE ISLAND

%07 / pop 3500

Affectionately referred to as Straddie by locals, this picturesque island is the most popular
in the Bay area and has become an increasingly
desirable postcode for weekending Queenslanders looking for a holiday home. Just a hop,
step and 30-minute ferry ride from Cleveland,
30km southeast of Brisbane, it makes for a
convenient and utterly delightful getaway.
The eastern side of the island is fringed by
white sandy beaches and turquoise waters and
the rocky outcrop to the north is a regular spot
for sighting dolphins, turtles and manta rays.
Between June and November, hundreds of
humpback whales can also be seen here.
The middle of the island is peppered with
freshwater lakes and waterways, and the
southeastern coast is a haven for 4WD drivers.
There are ample opportunities for swimming,
surfing, snorkelling and fishing, and there are
also some decent bushwalking trails.
There are three main settlements on the island that are all grouped towards the northern
end. Point Lookout is on the surf side and is the
major tourist destination, while Dunwich, on
the western coast, is where the ferries dock.
The southern part of the island is closed to
visitors because of sand mining.
Although quiet most of the year, the population swells by nearly five times during school
holidays so if you are planning a trip then,
you will need to book accommodation well
in advance.
The Stradbroke Island Visitor Information Centre (%3409 9555; www.stradbroketourism.com; Junner St;
h8.30am-5pm) is 200m from the ferry terminal
in Dunwich.
Those with a 4WD will need to obtain a permit ($33) from Stradbroke Tourism (%3409 9555).

Sights
At Dunwich you can get a feel for the islands
history. The Dunwich Museum (%3409 9699; 15-17
Welsby St; adult/child $3.30/1; h10am-2pm Wed & Sat) has
a small but comprehensive display of life on
the island. To explore the islands Aboriginal
history, book onto the Goompi Trail Tour (%3409
9555; $8.50) an 1-hour walk led a by local Aboriginal guide.
At Point Lookout, the breathtaking North
Gorge Headlands Walk is a must. A wooden
boardwalk skirts the rocky outcrops and you
can spot turtles and manta rays bobbing and
gliding in the waters below you.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

12 30; www.transinfo.qld.gov.au; h6am-9pm Mon-Thu, 24hr

6am Fri to 9pm Sun).

lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com

0
0

BRISBANE & MORETON BAY

Woodford

To Nambour (35km);
Gympie (95km)

Beerburrum

lar

ui

icesto

Ag

D'

Bruce Hw
y

White
Patch

Cape
Moreton

nel

an

Ch

Caboolture

Bellara

Woorim

M1

Skirmish Pt

Bongaree

58

gu

Burpengary

i la

Dayboro

icle

Veh

a
rR

Deception
Bay

n ge

Alma
Park Zoo

Tangalooma
Wrecks

Samford

rry

Fe

cle

The Desert

hi

Moreton Bay

Ve

Mud
Island

Sandgate

Brisbane
Airport

See Brisbane
Map (p297)

Kooringal

Fisherman
Islands
Gateway
Toll Bridge

St Helena Island
National Park

uil

ang
ar R

Manly

Wellington
Pt

Peel
Island

Capalaba

A2

am

C
Hw unni
y ngh

Daisy Hill
Koala Centre

Goodna
4

Karawatha
Wetlands

Loga

Churchill

Logan
Mw
y

Hwy

Greenbank
Military
Camp

Redland
Bay

esa
Lind

Buccan

Yatala

Mw

Mt

ific

Logan
Village

Carlton & United

Brewhouse

ve

Lo

To Beaudesert
(11km)

ve

13

ga

Ri

t
lber

Ri

92

The eastern beach, known as Eighteen Mile

Beach, is open to 4WD vehicles and campers.
Freshwater lakes make for a refreshing swim
and there are two accessible by 4WD. The
aptly named Brown Lake is the colour of stewed
tea owing to the native tea trees that line the
waters, and you can float in the clear waters
of Keyhole Lake while listening to the surf that

Ormeau
M1

To Gold Coast
(20km)

Jacobs
Well

Keyhole
Lake

Blue
Lake

Macleay
Island

Main
Beach

Blue Lake
National
Park

North
Stradbroke
Island

Russell Mining
Island Company
Land

Pac

Maclean

Beenleigh

Dunwich

Coochiemudlo
Island

Waterford

To Warwick
(120km)

Victoria
Point

Springwood

Point
Lookout
Frenchman s
Beach

Myora
Springs

Brown
Lake

Cleveland

Home Beach &

Cylinder Beach

Amity
Point

Darling Pt

M1

Deadmans
Beach

Reeders Pt

Wynnum

BRISBANE

To Toowoomba
(88km)

15

Big Sandhills
Little Sandhills

M1

Ipswich

Moreton
Island

Moreton Island
National Park

y
Hw Margate
n
to
gh
u
Ho Brighton

Albany
Creek
Bunyaville State
Forest Park
Aspley

Ag
D

QUEENSLAND

Scarborough Pt

Eagers
Creek
Mt Tempest
(280m)

Tangalooma

Petrie

Mt Glorious
(619m)

Brisbane
Forest
Park

Cowan
Cowan

Redcliffe

Greenes
Falls

Mt
Nebo

Ferry

Scarborough

Lake
Samsonvale

Maiala
National
Park

Bulwer

Beachmere

D
A

DAguilar
National
Park

SOUTH
PACIFIC
OCEAN

Bribie Island
National Park

ne

Donnybrook

Hwy

10 km
6 miles

Bribie
Island

Pum

85

To Kilcoy
(20km)

Eighteen
Mile
Beach

South
Stradbroke
Island

lays just metres away. Blue Lake is closed to

vehicles but the 2.4km stroll through the forest to reach it is worth it.

Activities
Swimming, surfing and fishing are the main
pastimes on Straddie. Cylinder Beach is patrolled and great for swimming; Frenchmans

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

Beach and Deadmans Beach are peaceful secluded spots and Amity Point and Dunwich
offer calm waters.
Main Beach is where surfers and bodyboarders head for big swells that can reach
up to 8ft.
Watersports gear can be hired from various places; kayak hire per hour/day is around
$20/50, surfboards $15/40 and bodyboards
$10/30.
Straddie Adventures (%3409 8414; 112 East Coast Rd)
offers sea-kayaking trips (including snorkelling stops, $35) around Straddie, and sandboarding ($25).
Anglers can hire fishing gear from Dunwich
Sports & Hobbies (%3409 9252; 18 Bingle Rd).
Manta Lodge & Scuba Centre (%3409 8888; www
.stradbrokeislandscuba.com.au; 1 East Coast Rd) based at
the Manta Lodge YHA (below), offers snorkelling (adult/child $80/60) inclusive of a twohour boat trip and all the gear. Open-water
dive courses cost $420.

Tours
Stradbroke Island Beach Tours (%3824 6247;
www.stradbroketours.com.au; adult/child $79/70) Offers
a range of day trips with the option of departing from
Brisbane or the Gold Coast for an additional fee. Tours
include lunch.
Straddie Kingfisher Tours (%3409 9502; www
.straddiekingfishertours.com.au; adult/child $69/49) Run
by the very knowledgeable and affable Dave, these ecotourism based tours last a full day and include a barbecue
lunch. He also runs tours to Moreton Island.

Sleeping
Point Lookout Backpackers Beach House (%3409
8679; www.pointlookoutbeachhouse.com.au; 76 Mooloomba
Rd; dm/d $20/45) Ideally located near the surf, this

renovated 1950s beach house has a friendly,

laid-back vibe. The hostel also has an active
environmental policy so you can kick back in
the funky wreck room knowing that youre
also helping to save the world.
Manta Lodge YHA (%3409 8888; www.stradbroke
islandscuba.com.au; 1 East Coast Rd; dm $27, tw & d $60) This
purpose-built hostel is next door to Home
Beach and boasts a well-equipped kitchen,
comfy lounge area and decent rooms. The
dive school is run out of here and guests can
also hire bikes and use the surf and boogie
boards. Its a bit of a trek from here to the
restaurants and shops.
Domain Stradbroke Resort (%3415 0000; www
.stradbrokedomain.com; 43-47 East Coast Rd; cabins from

M O R E T O N B AY N o r t h S t r a d b r o k e I s l a n d 325

$145; ais) These self-contained modern

beach shacks are some of the most stylish on

the island. Open-plan living, designer furniture and all the mod cons you could ever need
make this a great high-end option.
Whale Watch Resort (%1800 450 004, 3409 8555;
www.whalewatchresort.com.au; Samarinda Dr; r per 2/5 nights
from $296/700; ais) If youre hankering for

an island holiday home but cant quite find

the cash, then this is your next best option.
These sublime apartments hide generous interiors with three bedrooms, two bathrooms
and spacious lounges. Even better are the
uninterrupted ocean views from a private
wooden deck.
Holiday homes can be good value if youre
planning on staying for a while, especially
outside the holiday season. Rentals start at
$220 per night and you can get some good
deals for multi-day stays:
Dolphin Holiday Accommodation (%3409 8455;
www.straddie.info; 1 Endeavour St)
Raine & Horne (%3409 8213; www.stradbrokeisland
realestate.com; Shop 3 Kennedy Dr)
Ray White (%3409 8255; www.raywhitestraddie.com;
Mintee St)

The six camping grounds on the island are run

by Stradbroke Caravan and Camping (%1300 551
253; unpowered/powered/foreshore sites from $25/30/10.50)

and should be booked well in advance. One

of the most popular sites is the shady beachfront camp site right on Cylinder Beach, while
the Adder Rock and Thankful Rest Camping
Areas both overlook pretty Home Beach. In
general, if you manage to secure a spot in a
camping ground around Point Lookout, you
wont be disappointed.

Eating
There are a couple of general stores selling
groceries in Point Lookout, but its worth
bringing basic supplies. Note that few places
are open to eat later than 8pm.
Gelati With A View (%3415 3222; 19 Mooloomba
Rd; hbreakfast & lunch) This quirky coffee shopcum-ice cream parlour is the place to come
to for Brazilian blend coffee, fresh fruit juices
and proper Italian gelati.
Fishes at the Point (%3415 3444; Point Lookout; mains
$8.50-20; hlunch & dinner) You cant beat fish and
chips when youre on a beach holiday and this is
the place to indulge those childhood fantasies. If
youve outgrown the newspaper wrapping then
opt for a dozen fresh oysters instead.

QUEENSLAND

324 M O R E T O N B AY N o r t h S t r a d b r o k e I s l a n d

326 M O R E T O N B AY M o re t o n I s l a n d

Stonefish Cafe Bar & Restaurant (%3409 8549; cnr

Mooloomba Rd & Mintee St; mains $12-25; hbreakfast &
lunch) The location overlooking Frenchmans
Beach is just one reason this place is a local
favourite. The other drawcard is the menu,
which offers scrummy breakfasts (including
freshly squeezed juices) and innovative Mod
Oz options for lunch.
Domain Cafe (%3415 0090; 43-47 East Coast Rd; mains
$18-30) Recently opened, this alfresco option
is ideal for those with a penchant for more
upmarket dining. Excellent seafood dishes,
a respectable wine list and amazing chocolate brownies are just a few of the treats on
offer.
The gateway to North Stradbroke Island is
the seaside town of Cleveland. Regular city
train services run from Central or Roma St
Stations in Brisbane to Cleveland station
($4.40, one hour), from where you can get
a bus (free if you show your train ticket) to
the ferry terminal.
Stradbroke Ferries (%3286 2666) runs a water
taxi to Dunwich almost every hour from
about 6am to 6pm (adult/child $17/10 return,
30 minutes). It also has a slightly less frequent
vehicle ferry ($112 return per vehicle, including passengers, 45 minutes) from 5.30am to
6.30pm.
The Stradbroke Flyer (%3821 3821; www.flyer
.com.au) also runs an almost-hourly catamaran service from Cleveland to One Mile Jetty
(adult/child $16/10 return, 45 minutes),
1.5km north of central Dunwich.

Getting Around
Local buses (%3409 7151) meet the ferries at
Dunwich and One Mile Jetty and run across
to Point Lookout ($9.50 return). Remember
to tell the driver where you want to get off.
The last bus to Dunwich leaves Point Lookout around 6pm. Theres also the Stradbroke
Cab Service (%0408 193 685), which charges $35
from Dunwich to Point Lookout.

MORETON ISLAND
%07

North of Stradbroke, Moreton Island is a

natural wonderland teeming with miles of
sandy beaches, freshwater lagoons, rampant
wildflowers and prolific birdlife. There is also
evidence of the islands rich history from the
ancient shell middens of early Aboriginal set-

tlers to the fortifications leftover from military occupation in 1938. The island was also
the site of Queenslands first and only whaling station, which operated between 1952
and 1962.
Apart from a few rocky headlands, its all
sand and approximately 95% of the island is
national park. Mt Tempest, the highest coastal
sand hill in the world, is well worth a trek up
all 280m of it. At the northern tip is the Cape
Moreton Lighthouse. Built in 1857, its the oldest operating lighthouse in Queensland, and
is the place to come for an impressive 360degree view of the island. Near the lighthouse
is the Moreton Island National Park information
centre (%3408 2710) where you can buy QPWS
maps. These are also available from the vehicle ferry offices.
Centrally located off the western coast are
the Tangalooma Wrecks, which provide good
snorkelling and diving. Also here is the Tangalooma Wild Dolphin Resort, an upmarket hotel
situated at the old whaling station; you can
still see the flensing deck almost in its original condition. The resorts main attraction
is the wild dolphin feeding, which takes place
every evening around sunset. Between five
and nine dolphins swim in from the ocean
to take fish from the hands of volunteer feeders, but you need to be a guest at the resort
to be involved.
The only other settlements on the island
are also on the west coast. Bulwer sits near
the northwestern tip, Cowan Cowan between
Bulwer and Tangalooma, and Kooringal is near
the southern tip. There are shops at Kooringal
and Bulwer but theyre pricey, so bring what
you can from the mainland.
You wont find any paved roads on Moreton Island, but 4WDs can travel along the
beaches and a few cross-island tracks seek
local advice about tides and creek crossings.
Vehicle permits for the island cost $35 and
are available through the ferry operators or
from the Naturally Queensland information
centre in Brisbane (p296). Note its worth
booking your ferry ticket (bookings are mandatory if you want to take a vehicle across)
before buying the permit, as barge services
to the island are limited (see opposite for
operators).
If you dont have a car, the only way to
get around the island is on foot. Fortunately,
there are lots of good walking trails and decommissioned 4WD roads.

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

Tours
Moreton Bay Escapes (%1300 559 355; www.moreton
bayescapes.com.au; adult/child incl lunch $129/109) Ecocertified outfit offering daily 4WD adventure trips.
Sunrover Expeditions (%1800 353 717, 3880 0719;
www.sunrover.com.au; 1-/2-/3-day tours per person from
$120/195/295, plus $10 national park entrance fee) Ecotours run as day trips or camping safaris departing from
Brisbanes Roma St Transit Centre.

Sleeping
Bulwer Cabins (%3203 6399; www.moreton-island.com;
cabins from $95) These modest, self-contained units
sleep up to six, and there are two dormitorystyle cabins for large groups. You must provide your own linen.
Tangalooma Wild Dolphin Resort (%1300 652 250,
3268 6333; www.tangalooma.com; r from $250; as)

Theres a huge range of ritzy rooms here and

you get to feed the dolphins. It also runs a
daily Eco Kids programme. Rates do not
include transfer costs.
There are nine QPWS camping grounds (per person/
family $4.50/18), including four on the beach.
Those sites not on the beach have water, toilets and cold showers. Camping permits must
be obtained prior to arriving on the island
as there is no self-registration on site. These
can be obtained from Naturally Queensland
(p296) in Brisbane or from a barge operator.

Getting There & Around

The Tangalooma Flyer (%3268 6333; www.tangalooma
.com/tangalooma/transport; return adult/child $60/30;
h8am, 10am & 5pm daily, plus 1pm Mon, Sat & Sun) is

the resorts fast catamaran. It departs from

Holt St, off Kingsford Smith Dr (in Eagle
Farm, Brisbane). A bus ($5) departs Brisbanes
Roma St at 9am to catch the 10am boat. Bookings are essential.
The Moreton Venture (%3909 3333; www.moreton
venture.com.au; return adult/child/vehicle plus 2 passengers
$45/30/165; h8.30am daily, plus 6.30pm Fri & 2.30pm Sun)

ferry leaves from Howard Smith Dr, Lyton, at

the Port of Brisbane.
The Combie Trader (%3203 6399; www.moreton
-island.com/how.html; return adult/child/vehicle plus 2 passengers $40/30/165; h8am & 1pm Mon, 8am Wed & Thu,
8am, 1pm & 7pm Fri, 8am & 1pm Sat, 10.30am & 3.30pm Sun)

sails between Scarborough, on the Redcliffe

Peninsula, and Bulwer and takes about two
hours. Saturday morning crossings are slightly
cheaper for pedestrians.
There is no 4WD hire on the island unless
you are a guest at the Tangalooma Resort.

G O L D C OA S T 327

BRIBIE ISLAND
%07

This slender sand island at the northern end

of Moreton Bay is popular with young families, retirees and those with a cool million or
three to spend on a waterfront property. Its
far more developed than Straddie or Moreton Island but the national park on the northwestern coast has some beautifully remote
QPWS camping areas (4WD access only, per person/family
$4.50/18).
There is no 4WD hire on the island and
4WD permits (per week/year $33/103) should be purchased from the Bongaree Caravan Park (%3408
1054; Welsby Pde) as soon as you arrive. Theres a
ranger station (%3408 8451) at White Patch on the
southeastern fringes of the park, and you can
pick up 4WD maps ($8) and other information
at the friendly Bribie Island information centre
(%3408 8300; www.bribie.com.au; Benabrow Ave, Bellara;
h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat, 9.30am-1pm Sun).

If youre not camping then the Inn Bongaree

(%3410 1718; www.innbongaree.com.au; 25 Second Ave,
Bongaree; s/d/tr $40/50/60) is a great budget option

in a welcoming setting.
There are restaurants aplenty on the island
but for proper Aussie tucker try the Bribie
Island RSL (%3400 1300; 99 Toorbul St, Bongaree; mains
$8-18; hlunch & dinner).
There are frequent Citytrain services between Brisbane and Caboolture. A Trainlink bus runs between the station and Bribie
Island.

GOLD COAST
%07 / pop 496,543

The neon lights of the Gold Coast have more

in common with the glitz and glamour of
Miami or the hedonistic pastimes of Las Vegas
than they do Australia. But somehow this
heady mix of high-rise apartment blocks, airport-sized shopping malls and million-dollar
theme parks feels at home here. While theres
no denying that this 35km strip of golden sand
is the most aggressively developed patch in
Australia, its also one of the most popular
holiday destinations and receives more than
two million visitors every year. So it must be
doing something right.
The shared appeal is the sand, surf and
nightlife, but theres more to the Gold Coast
than just the beach. Coolangatta and Burleigh
Heads have some excellent surfing breaks

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

Getting There & Away

lonelyplanet.com

0
0

GOLD COAST & HINTERLAND

Hw

Pa

cif

ic

TamborineOxenford Rd

Coomera

90

Ck

ra

c P

Spring
broo
Rd k

Purling
Brook
Falls
Springbrook Tallebudgera
National Park Mountain
(682m)
Springbrook

Palm Beach

kR

in

ee

Cr

Currumbin
Tugun

Coolangatta
Point
Danger

Coolangatta
Airport

98

mb

ve

Beech
mont

Ri

er

om

Co

Burleigh Heads

Currumbin
Wildlife
Sanctuary

Esprit Bird
Gardens

Mt Cougal
(694m)

Tweed
Heads

NEW
SOUTH
WALES

Tweed Valley Way

(Former Pacific Hwy)

d
ee
Tw iver
R

Border Ranges
National Park

Miami

Little Nerang
Dam

Lamington Binna Burra Natural

National Park Mountain Bridge
Lodge
Green Mountains
e
g
Best of
O'Reilly's
n
All Lookout
Rainforest
a
R
Guesthouse
n Mt Toolona
o
(1190m)
s

Robina

David Fleay
tWildlife Park
oas Rd
ld C ook Pac
Go ingbr
ifi
c
Spr
99
Hw
y

Hw

Correctional
Facility
Numinbah
Valley

Binna
Burra

st

Lamington N
ati

Rd

ona Can
l
u

ert

Alb

Mudgeeraba

Beechmont

Binna
Burra Rd

Conrad Jupiters Casino

Mermaid Beach

Murwillumbah

To Byron Bay (50km);

Ballina (73km);
Sydney (820km)

Kingscliff
To Byron
Bay via
Bogangar
(55km)

and there are also laid-back neighbourhoods

favoured by families. Beyond the high-rises
stands the Gold Coast Hinterland, a densely
forested region home to two of Queenslands
best national parks: Lamington and Springbrook. And then theres Surfers Paradise,
which is both the epitome of the Gold Coast
and the exception to the rule. Its brash and
its tacky but thats exactly what people love
about it.

the Gold Coast for Schoolies Week, a monthlong party thats great fun for those celebrating but can be hell for everyone else.

Dangers & Annoyances

you at most Gold Coast accommodation.

Citytrain services link Brisbane to Helensvale station ($8.10, one hour), Nerang station
($9, 70 minutes) and Robina station ($10.60,
75 minutes) roughly every half hour. Surfside
Buslines (%13 12 30, 5571 6555; www.surfside.com.au)

Car theft is a major problem all the way along

the Gold Coast park in well-lit areas and
dont leave valuables in your vehicle.
Between mid-November and mid-December
tens of thousands of school leavers descend on

G O L D C OA S T S o u t h p o r t & M a i n B e a c h 329

runs regular shuttles from the train stations

down to Surfers ($3 to $4) and beyond, and to
the theme parks. You can buy individual fares
or get an Ezy Pass ($12) for a days unlimited
travel, or a weekly pass ($45).
Coachtrans (%1300 664 700, 3358 9700; www
.coachtrans.com.au) runs transfers between Brisbane airport and most Gold Coast accommodation (one way adult/child $35/18). It
also offers the Gold Coast Super Pass, which
includes return airport transfers, unlimited
coach transfers between Gold Coast accommodation and theme parks, and unlimited
use of the Surfside bus network (three-day
adult/child $107/54).

h10am & 2.30pm) operates two-hour cruises

%07 / pop 25,731

Broadbeach

M1

lonelyplanet.com

SOUTHPORT & MAIN BEACH

Surfers Paradise

90

Coa

To Mt Barney National Park (19km);

Rathdowney (20km);
Mt Lindesay (NSW Border) (48km)

Sea World

Nerang Cove

g
ran
Ne iver
R

Advancetown
Lake
97

SOUTH
PACIFIC
OCEAN

Southport
Mariner's Main Beach

Advancetown

gNeranumbah
ill
Murw Rd

QUEENSLAND

Military
Area

Gold

Laravale

Gold
HwyCoast

Coomera
River

Canungra

Rd

k
Par

Paradise
Point
Runaway
Helensvale Bay
Marina

rru

90

Beaudesert

Wet 'n'
Wild

Henri
Tamborine
Robert Dr
National Park
Mt Tamborine

ng

Mt
Li
Hw ndes
y ay

13

Warner Bros
Movie World

North
Tamborine

esertBeaud g Rd
Neran

90

Bea
Beenudesertleigh
Rd

To Boonah (33km);
Warwick (118km)

Tamborine
Mountain
(552m)

River

er

n Riv

Loga

13

95

Tamborine

South
Stradbroke
Island

Cu

in

tL

Coomera
Island
Sanctuary
Cove
Dreamworld

Coomera

The Broadwater

esa

Ormeau

Mwy

Rd

rt

be

Al

Ormeau

Hwy

ri

ne

Jimboomba

Kangaroo
Island
South Moreton
Bay
Islands
Pimpama National Park
River
Woogoompah
Island
Jacobs
Well

M1

Beaudese rt-Beenleig

Waterford-Tambo

ble Rd

Camp Ga

h Rd

Logan
Village

13

92

10 km
6 miles

Crusoe
Island

To Brisbane
Beenleigh (39km)

ic

To Brisbane
(37km)

Pacif

To Brisbane
(32km)

To Brisbane
(33km)

lonelyplanet.com

Getting There & Around

The Gold Coast airport is based in Coolangatta and is serviced by Qantas (%13 13 13),
Virgin Blue (%13 67 89) and Jetstar (%13 15 38).
The Gold Coast Tourist Shuttle (%1300 655 655,
5574 5111; www.gcshuttle.com.au; one way per adult/child/
family $17/9/43) will meet your flight and drop

Sheltered from the ocean by a long sand bar

known as the Spit, Southport is the northern
gateway to the Gold Coast. Its generally regarded as the regions business district but
the leafy streets, quiet residential blocks and
lack of business suits lends a relaxed feel to
the neighbourhood. Its far more sedate than
Surfers Paradise and this is reflected in the
accommodation and dining options on offer.
Immediately southeast is Main Beach, where
tourist developments begin in earnest and the
golden sand stretches for miles. From here,
the Spit runs 3km north, dividing the Broadwater from the South Pacific Ocean.
There are ATMs dotted along Scarborough
St and the Gold Coast Hospital (%5519 8211; 108
Nerang St, Southport) is here.

Sights & Activities

The ocean side of the spit, which extends north
from Main Beach, is home to uncrowded
beaches and excellent surf. From here you
can see across the channel to South Stradbroke Island and its a popular fishing spot.
A fig tree opposite the entrance to Seaworld
(right) marks the start of the Federation Walk,
a pretty 3.7km trail that winds its way through
patches of littoral rainforest and down to the
Gold Coast Oceanway.
Near the start of the walk is the upmarket
shopping and dining complex Marina Mirage;
a farmers market is held here on the first and
third Saturday of each month.
A number of cruises depart from the marinas at Main Beach to explore the Gold Coast
waterways. Wyndham Cruises (%5539 9299; www
.wyndhamcruises.com.au; per adult/child/family $39/20/98;

up to and around the Broadwater, including morning or afternoon tea. Tallship Cruises
(%5532 2444; www.tallship.com.au; adult/child/family
$99/69/269; h9am) runs day trips from Mari-

ners Cove to McLarens Landing Resort on

South Stradbroke Island. Lunch is included.
At the Mariners Cove Booking Office (%5571
1711; h9am-5pm), near Marina Mirage, you can
arrange most water activities:
Jet Ski Safaris (%5526 3111; www.jetskisafaris.com
.au; from $70) Half-hour spins or two-hour trips through
untamed mangroves and flood plains.
Kayaking & Snorkelling Adventures (%0412-940
135; www.australiankayakingadventures.com.au; per
person incl breakfast $45-65) Runs dolphin tours and halfday trips to South Stradbroke Island.
Wahoo Fishing Adventures (%5597 3180; www
.wahoocharters.com.au; half-/full day per person
$100/150; h6am) Fishing trips for singles and groups,
plus deep-sea and reef fishing.
THEME PARKS

If you like theme parks then you will love the

Gold Coast as its home to the biggest, brashest and best American-style theme parks in
Australia. Discount tickets are sold in most
tourist offices and there are deals that get you
into more than one park. The Fun Pass (adult/child
$135/86) allows one single day entry into Movie
World, Sea World and Wet n Wild over a
five-day period.
Dreamworld (%5588 1111; www.dreamworld.com.au;
Pacific Hwy, Coomera; adult/child $64/42; h10am-5pm)
Home to the Big Five Thrill Rides, including the aptly
named Giant Drop and Tower of Terror.
Sea World (%5588 2222, show times 5588 2205; www
.seaworld.com.au; Sea World Dr, The Spit, Main Beach;
adult/child $64/42; h10am-5pm) Sharks, polar bears,
dugongs and dolphins plus rollercoasters and flume rides.
Warner Bros Movie World (%5573 8485; www
.movieworld.com.au; Pacific Hwy, Oxenford; adult/child
$64/42; h10am-5pm) Movie-themed shows, rides
and attractions including the kid-favourite Looney Tunes
Village.
Wet n Wild (%5573 2255; www.wetnwild.com.au;
Pacific Hwy, Oxenford; adult/child $42/28; h10am-5pm
Feb-Apr & Sep-Dec, 10am-4pm May-Aug, 10am-9pm 27
Dec-26 Jan) Whirlpools, slippery slides, white-water rapids,
tube rides and the newly opened Extreme H20 Zone.
WhiteWater World (%1800 073 300, 5588 1111;
www.whitewaterworld.com.au; Dreamworld Parkway,
Coomera; adult/child $42/28; h10.30am-4.30pm)
Newly opened with more pipelines, wave caves and water
cannons to thrill and delight.

QUEENSLAND

328 G O L D C OA S T D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s

sandwiches check out this cheery caf at the

tip of the Spit.
C Espresso bar (%5591 6377; 56 Scarborough St,
Southport; mains from $12; hbreakfast & lunch Mon-Sat)

This fabulous new coffee shop and restaurant satisfies health nuts and fry-up fiends at
breakfast and offers everything from burgers
to grilled marlin at lunch. Oh, and the coffee
is perfect.
Also recommended:
Australian Outback Spectacular (%13 33 86, 5519

Surfers is mostly about getting tanned and getting tanked and theres a permanent good-time
vibe in the air. That said, there are a couple of
cerebral attractions. The excellent Gold Coast
Art Gallery (%5581 6567; 135 Bundall Rd, Surfers Paradise;
h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun) features two
main galleries displaying works by established
Australian and international artists. Of particular interest is the annual showcase by students
from the Queensland College of Art.
Within Surfers itself is the eclectic Art
Gallery Collections (%5538 3724; Piazza on the Boulevard, Elkhorn Ave; h10.30am-6.30pm), a gallerycum-wine bar that shows contemporary art
and sculpture.
For perspective of a different kind, take a
trip in one of the worlds fastest elevators to
the Q1 Observation Deck (%5630 4700; Hamilton Ave,

Ferry Ave

Ave

Pine A
ve

18

Stagho

SOUTH
PACIFIC
OCEAN

rn Ave

15

INFORMATION
Backpacker Tour Desk....................(see 37)
Email Centre.......................................1 B4
Gold Coast Accommodation Service...2 B4
Gold Coast Tourism Bureau................3 B4
Surfers Paradise Day & Night Surgery..4 B3
Travelex.............................................5 B4

Palm Av
e
8
Cypress

Ave

22

View Av
e

To Gold Coast Arts Centre (1km);

Gold Coast Art Gallery (1km)

Thomas Dr

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Adventure Duck...............................(see 5)
Aqua Duck.........................................6 B4
Art Gallery Collections........................7 B3
Bungy Australia..................................8 B2
Cheyne Horan School of Surf.............9 B4
Go Ride a Wave...............................10 B4
Q1 Observation Deck.......................11 B5

4
27
Elkhorn
Ave
23

20

13

36

Chevron
Island
38

34
1
30
6
31
25
Cavill M
all
3 5
9
33 21
10
Hanlan
24
St
28

35
Cavill
Ave
29

Watso
nE

d
ar
on
Le

Av12

lan
he
W

14 2

Beach Rd
16
37

sp

19

St
26

Surfers
Paradise
Beach

32

Trickett

k St

Paradise
Island

Clifford

St

11
Hamilton

Ave

Markwe
ll

Enderle

24

To Nerang
(17km)

DRINKING
Delano Hotel....................................27
Liquid...............................................28
Melbas.............................................29
Monkey Cage...................................30
O'Malleys.........................................31

Ave

y AVe

Vista St

To Broadbeach (700m);
Sonatas (2km);
Platinum Nightclub (2.2km);
Conrad Jupiters Casino (2.2km);
Greater Union Cinemas (3km);
Mermaid Beach (4.5km);
Burleigh Heads (11.5km);
Coolangatta (22.5km)

SLEEPING
Backpackers in Paradise....................12
Chateau Beachside Resort.................13
Cosmopolitan Apartments................14
Gold Coast International Hotel.........15
Islander Backpackers Resort..............16
Marriott Resort.................................17
Surf'n' Sun Beachside Backpackers....18
Surfers International Apartments......19
Vibe Hotel........................................20

A4
B3
B4
B2
B4
B1
B2
B4
A3

EATING
Centro Surfers Paradise....................21 B4
Chateau Beachside.........................(see 13)
Fix Espresso......................................22 A3
Marmalade Cafe...............................23 B3
My Oliver's Kitchen..........................24 B4
Santino's Pizza & Pasta Restaurant...25 B4
Tandoori Place.................................26 B4

St

Laycoc

Thomton St

Hwy
Gold Coast

Many locals reckon that if Surfers Paradise

were a person, it would be Paris Hilton: flashy,
trashy, always up for a party and big on style
and self-promotion. Its the undisputed core

Sights

Ave

e
Garfield Tc

%07 / pop 24,663

Transit Centre) Helpful accommodation booking service for

backpackers.
Email Centre (%5538 7500; Orchid Ave; per hr $4;
h9am-11pm) Internet access.
Gold Coast Accommodation Service (%5592 0067;
www.goldcoastaccommodationservice.com; Shop 1,
1 Beach Rd) Accommodation booking service.
Gold Coast Tourism Bureau (%5538 4419; www
.goldcoasttourism.com.au; Cavill Ave Mall; h8.30am5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Sat, 9am-4pm Sun) Helpful
information booth and website.
Surfers Paradise Day & Night Surgery (%5592
2299; 3221 Gold Coast Hwy; h7am-10pm) Medical
centre and pharmacy.
Travelex (%5531 7770; Shop 205, Paradise Centre, 20
Cavill Ave; h9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat &
Sun) Foreign currency exchange.

Norfolk

Northcliffe Tce

SURFERS PARADISE & BROADBEACH

The main drag in Surfers is Cavill Ave, the

beach end of which is pedestrianised. Orchid
Ave, one block in from the Esplanade, is the
nightclub and bar strip. The following are all
based in Surfers Paradise.
Backpacker Tour Desk (%1800 359 830, 5592 2911;

Ocean

Ave

Blvd
Surfers Paradise

6200; www.outbackspectacular.com.au; Entertainment Rd,

Oxenford; adult/child $95/65; hfrom 6.15pm Tue-Sun)
Newly opened extravaganza that includes a three-course
Aussie barbecue dinner.
Harbour Side Resort (%5591 6666; www.harbourside
resort.com.au; 132 Marine Pde, Southport; apt from $99;
pas) Large, functional apartments good for families.
Peters Fish Market (%5591 7747; 120 Sea World
Dr, Main Beach; meals $10; h9am-6pm) Freshly caught
seafood grilled, baked or fried as you wait.

Orientation & Information

Esplanade

world Dr, The Spit, Main Beach; meals from $10; hbreakfast
& lunch) For mouth-watering Queensland crab

Blondell

Aubrey St

Frederick St

B3
B4
A4
B4
B4

ENTERTAINMENT
Bedroom...........................................32 B4
Cocktails & Dreams..........................(see 1)
Howl at the Moon............................33 B4
Rose & Crown..................................34 B4
Shooters...........................................(see 1)
TRANSPORT
All Age Car Rentals........................(see 37)
Bus Stop for Burleigh Heads.............35 A4
Bus Stop for Southport.....................36 A3
Red Rocket Rentals..........................(see 1)
Surfers Paradise Transit Centre ........37 A4
Yahoo Car & Bike Rentals.................38 B3

QUEENSLAND

can literally hear the surf from your sleeping

bag at this pleasant camping ground located
smack bang opposite Main Beach. Its a cheery
place and cheap so youll have more money
to spend on cocktails in Surfers. Book early to
ensure you get a shaded site.
The Sand Pumping Jetty & Kiosk (%5591 6970; Sea-

Orchid Ave

QUEENSLAND

7722; www.gctp.com.au/main; Main Beach Pde; unpowered/

powered sites from $28/30, cabins from $125; is) You

To Marina Mirage (2.5km);

The Spit (3.5km);
Sea World (3.5km)

Surfers Paradise Blvd

home, this low-key hostel oozes charm and

friendly vibes. Its one of the oldest on the
coast and still comes highly recommended
by travellers.
Main Beach Tourist Park (%1800 444 474, 5581

400 m
0.2 miles

17

brance

kersbackpackers.com.au; 22 White St, Southport; dm $25, d &

tw $62; is) Set within an old Queenslander

To Southport (3.5km);
Brisbane (70km)

Reme
m

is a lively, colourful place with decent-sized

rooms, spotless communal bathrooms and
an enormous swimming pool. Theres also a
great on-site bar.
Trekkers (%1800 100 004, 5591 5616; www.trek

0
0

SURFERS PARADISE

Via
Ro
m
a

backpackers.com.au; 44 Queen St, Southport; dm $25, d & tw

$60; is) This modern, purpose-built hostel

of the Gold Coasts revelry and excites with a

heady mix of restaurants, bars, nightclubs, surf,
sun and other less salubrious shenanigans.
For backpackers, Surfers is the place to
party in Queensland, and hostel staff do their
best to ensure the place goes off every night
of the week. At Broadbeach, a few kilometres
down the road, things shift down a gear and
youll find more space, less noise and some
great dining options.

G O L D C OA S T S u r fe r s Pa r a d i s e 331

Gold Coast
Hwy

Aquarius (%1800 229 955, 5527 1300; www.aquarius

lonelyplanet.com

Sleeping & Eating

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

Dr

330 G O L D C OA S T S u r fe r s Pa r a d i s e & B r o a d b e a c h

332 G O L D C OA S T S u r fe r s Pa r a d i s e & B r o a d b e a c h

lonelyplanet.com

INDYCAR
Since 1991 Surfers Paradise has played host to what has been dubbed Queenslands biggest
party the Australian leg of the IndyCar series (the US equivalent of Formula One motor racing).
Each October, the main streets of central Surfers are transformed into a temporary race circuit,
around which hurtle some of the worlds fastest cars their drivers push them up to speeds of
more than 300km/h.
On a good year around a quarter of a million spectators descend on Surfers for the race and
the three-day carnival that precedes it. Surfers is fairly over the top at the best of times, but
IndyCar gives the town a chance to really let its hair down. Its a great time to be there, or a
great time to be anywhere else, depending on how you feel about the place.
General admission charges to the races range from $33 to $93 per day at the gate (cheaper
if you book). Four-day grandstand seating is between $228 and $663. For details call %1800
300 055 or check www.indy.com.au.

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

G O L D C OA S T S u r fe r s Pa r a d i s e & B r o a d b e a c h 333

Festivals & Events

ais) Vibe is a breath of fresh, modern air

IndyCar Surfers Paradises biggest motor-racing party

in a strip packed with seaside-themed apartments. Bold designs, crisp white linens and
mod cons make it feel more boutique than
high-rise.
Surfers International Apartments (%1800 891

held in October (see boxed text, opposite).

Quicksilver & Roxy Pro-Surfing Competition From

late February to mid-March some of the worlds best surfers compete for big waves and big prize money.
Schoolies Week Month-long alcohol-fuelled party held
by school-leavers from mid-November to mid-December.
The first week sees organised events.
Surf Life-Saving Championships Held over a week in
early March.
Wintersun Festival Ten days of rock n roll nostalgia in
Coolangatta with bands, dance competitions and hot rods.

Sleeping
BUDGET

Surfers Paradise; adult/child/family $17.50/10/45; h9am9pm Sun-Thu, 9am-midnight Fri & Sat) that soars 322.5m

above sea level. Theres a cinema on level 78

and a Skybar on level 77.

Activities
For a unique look at the Gold Coast, throw
yourself out of a plane with Skydive Queensland (%1300 767 790, 5546 2877; www.skydiveqld.com
.au; per person $265-325) or a helicopter with Gold
Coast Helitours (%5591 8457; www.goldcoasthelitours
.com.au; per person $400) both of which offer tandem jumps from 10,000ft to 14,000ft. If free
fallings not your cup of tea, take a more
leisurely hot-air balloon ride with Balloon
Aloft (%5578 2244; www.balloonaloft.net; 1hr flight per
adult/child $285/200) or Balloon Down Under (%5593
8400; www.balloondownunder.com; 1hr flight per adult/child
$285/200). Both offer early morning flights over

the Gold Coast Hinterland, ending with a

champagne buffet breakfast.
BUNGEE JUMPING

Easily one of the most popular pastimes in

Surfers is finding out how good you are at
keeping your breakfast down. Traditionalists
may opt for flinging themselves off a 14-storey
tower with Bungy Australia (%5570 4833; cnr
Cypress & Ferny Aves; jumps from $100), but there are
myriad other rides here that spin, twist, swing,
drop and otherwise propel you at hundreds
of kilometres an hour.
HORSE RIDING

Gumnuts Farm & Horseriding Resort (%5543 0191;

www.gumnutsfarm.com.au; 2hr rides adult/child from $65/45)
and Numinbah Valley Adventure Trails (%5533
4137; www.numinbahtrails.com; 3hr treks adult/child from

Backpackers in Paradise (%1800 268 621, 5538 4344;

hinterland and cater for complete beginners

to experienced equestrians.

www.backpackersinparadise.com; 40 Whelan St, Surfers Paradise; dm from $17, d & tw $58, 1-bedroom apt $66; is)

SURFING

Its not called Surfers Paradise for nothing

and the swell here is just the right size to get
beginners thinking they could be the next
Kelly Slater. There are dozens of surf schools
and they all charge between $40 and $75 for a
two-hour lesson. Most places hire out boards
and wetsuits for between $15 and $25.
Brad Holmes Surf Coaching (%5539 4068,

This hostel is a fun choice. Theres a huge

range of rooms on offer from the impossibly
large 20-bed dorm through to cosy doubles.
There are colourful murals everywhere, including a Jules Verneinspired underwater
scene in the bar-cum-cinema area.
Surf n Sun Beachside Backpackers (%1800 678
194; 5592 2363; www.surfnsun-goldcoast.com; 3323 Surfers
Paradise Blvd, Surfers Paradise; dm $25, d & apt from $68;
is) This place is the epitome of Surfers

0418-757 539; www.bradholmessurfcoaching.com)

One-on-one or group tuition and also caters to travellers
with disabilities.
Cheyne Horan School of Surf (%1800 227 873,
0403-080 484; www.cheynehoran.com.au; hlessons at
10am & 2pm) Excellent two-hour lessons for beginners
held daily by a former World Champion surfer.
Go Ride A Wave (%1300 132 441; www.gorideawave
.com.au; Shop 189 Centro Centre, Cavill Ave, Surfers
Paradise) Also offers girl-only group lessons.
Kitesurf Gold Coast (%0405-197 870; www.kitesurf
goldcoast.com; per person from $220) Three-hour lessons
for complete beginners right the way through to master
wave riders.

Paradise wrapped up in one big bundle of

backpacker heaven. Lively, friendly and staff
that like to party ensure rooms get booked
up well in advance. Try to get one of the new
apartments theyre awesome.
Islander Backpackers Resort (%5538 8000; www

Tours

Midrange

Explore Surfers by land and water without

getting your feet wet.
Adventure Duck (%5557 8869; www.adventureduck

Cosmopolitan Apartments (%1300 553 800, 5570

.com; Paradise Centre, Cavill Mall, Surfers Paradise;

adult/child $32/28) Tours depart regularly between
8.30am and 5pm.
Aqua Duck (%5539 0222; www.aquaduck.com.au;
7a, Orchid Ave, Surfers Paradise; adult/child/family
$32/26/89) Tours depart every 1 hours between 10am
and 5.30pm.

owned and, as such, vary in standard and

dcor. Book well enough in advance however,
and the friendly ladies on reception will try to
accommodate your requests, be that ocean
view, air-con or newly renovated unit.
Vibe Hotel (%5539 0444; www.vibehotels.com.au;

.islander.com.au; cnr Beach Rd & Surfers Paradise Blvd, Surfers

Paradise; dm $28, d & tw $85; ps) Undoubtedly

the most conveniently located of backpacker

options; this faded pink high-rise could do
with a good lick of paint outside and in. While
theres no denying that the rooms are clean,
theyre pricey and youre kind of left feeling
youve been short-changed.

2311; 3142 Gold Coast Hwy, Surfers Paradise; apt from $95;
as) The apartments here are all privately

42 Ferny Ave, Surfers Paradise; d/tr/ste from $125/169/385;

are very small, the two-bed options are literally double in size and represent a good deal.
They dont look new but theyre very comfy.
Other recommendations:
Chateau Beachside Resort (%1800 807 336, 5538
1022; www.chateaubeachside.com.au; cnr Elkhorn Ave &
the Esplanade, Surfers Paradise; d/1-bedroom apt from
$145/165; pas) Somewhat tired apartments but
with cheery staff and ocean views.
Gold Coast International Hotel (%1800 074 020,
5584 1200; www.gci.com.au; 7 Staghorn Ave, Surfers
Paradise; d from $155; pas) Recently refurbished,
high-standard rooms with hinterland or ocean views.
TOP END

Marriott Resort (%5592 9800; www.marriott.com

/oolsp; 158 Ferny Ave, Surfers Paradise; d/ste from $255/440;
pas) Five-star luxury with all the trim-

mings you might expect plus one or two surprises such as the resorts very own private
beach and saltwater lagoon that hides two
waterfalls, an artificial coral reef, rock grottoes, waterslides and 500 fish.

Eating
Surfers many eateries generally offer quantity
over quality, but there are a few gems.
Fix Espresso (%5504 5332; Shop G4, 64 Ferny Ave,
Surfers Paradise; mains $5-10; h7.30am-3pm) This little place is a great grab-and-go option. There
are daily coffee and muffin specials and the
toasted Turkish sandwiches are cheap and
tasty.
My Olivers Kitchen (%5553 1904; cnr Hanlan St &
the Esplanade, Surfers Paradise; mains $8-15) Pukka pub
grub, such as steak and chips, is served up in
this friendly restaurant. Lunch specials run
between 11.30am and 3.30pm with nothing
on the menu over $9 while the Sunday roast
is equally wallet-friendly at $12.90.
Marmalade Caf (%5504 7353; Shop 36, Chevron Renaissance, 3240 Surfers Paradise Blvd, Surfers Paradise; mains
$10-15; h6.30am-6pm) A Moroccan-inspired

menu and cosy interior make this an unusual,

but very welcome, addition to Surfers cuisine
scene. Highlights include spicy lamb salads,

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

BALLOONING & SKYDIVING

$88/60) offer horse-riding tours through the

299; 5579 1299; www.surfers-international.com.au; 7-9 Trickett St, Surfers Paradise; 1-/2-bedroom apt from $150/190;
pas) Although the one-bedroom units

334 G O L D C OA S T S u r fe r s Pa r a d i s e & B r o a d b e a c h

hearty tagine and delicious breakfast pancakes

made with cardamom and spiced bananas.
Sonatas (%5526 9904; cnr Surf Pde & Queensland Ave,
Broadbeach; mains $15-25) The creative menu pulls
in the punters at this breezy caf. Speciality
dishes include Cajun barramundi and Coronabattered fish and chips, but theres also a good
range of fresh salads and sandwiches.
Tandoori Place (%5592 1004; 9 Trickett St, Surfers
Paradise; mains $16-25; hlunch & dinner) This awardwining restaurant is the place to come if
you fancy trying kangaroo korma or knockyour-socks-off vindaloo roo. It also serves
traditional Indian curries and tandoors (clay
ovens). Evening bookings are essential and
takeaway is available.
For cheap and cheerful Italian try Santinos
Pizza & Pasta Restaurant (%5527 5273; 3 Orchid Ave,
Surfers Paradise; meals $10-15) or Chateau Beachside

The majority of Surfers nightlife is centred on

or around Orchid Ave. Wednesday and Saturday nights sees the Backpackers Club Crawl,
a rowdy affair organised by a number of the
local hostels. For a mere $25 you get entry

.com.au; Gold Coast Hwy, Broadbeach; admission free;

h24hr)
Greater Union Cinemas (%5575 3355; Pacific Fair
Shopping Centre, cnr Hooker Blvd & Gold Coast Hwy,
Broadbeach)

burgers and an all-you-can-eat $10 breakfast.

Theres a supermarket in Centro Surfers Paradise
(Cavill Mall, Surfers Paradise).

Drinking
OMalleys (%5570 4075; Level 1, 1 Cavill Ave, Surfers Paradise) Things kick off early at this Irish-themed
pub and go on until the early hours. Its a
lively, rowdy, anything-goes kind of place
and the $8 jugs are a steal for cash-strapped
travellers.
The Monkey Cage (Orchid Ave, Surfers Paradise) The
all-female staff are dressed in two-sizestoo-small zoo keeper uniforms here at this
strangely popular backpacker watering hole;
could it be the daily drink promotions?
Liquid (%5538 0111; Shop 1, 20 Orchid Ave, Surfers Paradise) For something a little bit more upmarket
try this slick bar thats a head-spinning medley
of neon lights, trendy patrons, funky tunes
and potent cocktails.
The Delano Hotel (%5539 0344; 3282 Gold Coast Hwy,
Surfers Paradise) By day an older crowd props up
the bar here, but come evening theyre replaced
by a lively, young crowd who pour through the
doors in search of the Latin Fire Tuesday,
Champers Thursday or karaoke Sunday.

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

Jupiters Theatre (%1800 074 144) Also at the casino,

theres live music and glamorous dinner shows.
Platinum Nightclub (%5592 4433; 19 Victoria Ave,
Broadbeach Mall) Local and international DJs.

Getting There & Around

Long-distance buses stop at the Surfers Paradise Transit Centre (Beach Rd). Greyhound Australia
(%1300 473 946 863, 5531 6677), Premier Motor Service
(%13 34 10) and Kirklands (%1300 367 077) have
frequent services to/from Brisbane ($18, 1
hours).
Local car-rental outfits that consistently
offer good deals include All Age Car Rentals
(%5570 1200, 5527 6044; Surfers Paradise Transit Centre;
per day from $19), Yahoo Car & Bike Rental (%5592
0277; 3024 Gold Coast Hwy, Surfers Paradise; per day from
$25) and Red Rocket Rentals (%5538 9074; Shop 19,
The Centre Arcade, 16 Orchid Ave, Surfers Paradise; per day from
$29). Insurance costs extra.

The major taxi companies servicing the

area are Regent Taxis (%13 62 94), Gold Coast Taxis
(%13 10 08) and Silver Service Taxis (%13 31 00).
See Getting There & Around (p328) for
more transport information.

BURLEIGH HEADS
%07 / pop 8270

Burleigh Heads has the best of both worlds.

Its one of the nicest bathing beaches on the
Gold Coast and is also legendary for surfers.
When the southeasterly blows it provides a
long and barrelling right-hand break that
has experienced surfers paddling furiously
to catch a ride. Beginners should steer clear,
however, as the point to the south is lined with
black rocks and the rip is vicious.
The town itself is laid-back and theres little
activity here other than what goes on in the
water. You can get national park information
from the QPWS Information Centre (%5535 3032;
1711 Gold Coast Hwy; h9am-4pm).

Sights & Activities

The Burleigh Heads National Park is a small but
diverse forest reserve with several graded
walking trails around the rocky headland.
The natural rock slides and water cascades at
the Currumbin Rock Pools are wonderful in the
summer months.
Within the vicinity are two wildlife sanctuaries. There are some wonderfully weird
animals at the Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary
(%1300 886 511, 5534 0803; www.cws.org.au; Gold Coast
Hwy, Currumbin; adult/child $29.50/19.50; h8am-5pm),

G O L D C OA S T B u r l e i g h H e a d s 335

such as the long-nosed potoroo and the land

mullet, and there are also lots of cute koalas
and wombats to coo over. The Wildnight Tour
(adult/child $49/27) at 7pm is an excellent twohour tour by torchlight. To get here catch
Surfside Bus 1 or 1A in either direction.
Opened by the doctor who first succeeded
in breeding platypuses, the David Fleay Wildlife
Park (%5576 2411; West Burleigh Rd; adult/child/senior/family $15.40/7.20/10.30/39.10; h9am-5pm) is an
important breeding centre for the duck-billed
creatures. Its also home to many other native
Australian animals and places a strong emphasis on education and conservation.
The Hot Stuff Surf Shop (%5535 6899; 1969 Gold
Coast Hwy) rents out surfboards per half/full day
for $20/30.

Sleeping & Eating

Burleigh Gardens Holiday Apartments (%5576
3955; www.burleighgardens.com; 1849 Gold Coast Hwy; 1bedroom apt per night/week from $90/460, 2-bedroom apt
from $100/550; sp) These comfortable self-

contained units near the beach are a winner

with families. The units are large, tastefully
decorated and contain all the facilities you
might need for a longer stay.
Hillhaven Holiday Apartments (%5535 1055;
www.hillhaven.com.au; 2 Goodwin Tce; r per week from
$660; pais) Splash out on a higher-

end apartment here and you wont be disappointed; theres plush modern dcor,
refurbished bathrooms and balconies to rival
the size of the unit itself.
Burleigh Beach Club (%5520 2972; cnr Goodwin Tce
& Gold Coast Hwy; dishes $10-20) This place dishes up
tasty grub in family-friendly surrounds with
unobstructed ocean views. Wedges, nachos,
burgers and other no-nonsense meals make
up the bulk of the menu, but there are regular
chefs specials on offer as well.
Oskars (%5576 3722; 43 Goodwin Tce; dishes $19-40;
hlunch & dinner) A perennial favourite with
restaurant critics and gourmets alike, this
lovely restaurant is one of the Gold Coasts
finest. Seafood is the order of the day here
and you can expect something along the
lines of Queensland mud crab steamed with
coriander, chilli, lemongrass and coconut
cream.
Also recommended:
Burleigh Beach Tourist Park (%5581 7755; www
.gctp.com.au/burly; Goodwin Tce; unpowered/powered
sites $24/26, cabins $125; a) Cosy council-run park
ideally placed for the beach.

QUEENSLAND

Entertainment

into four clubs, a fistful of drinks vouchers

and a guaranteed hangover. Otherwise, cover
charges are roughly $10 and remember that
photo ID is mandatory.
Shooters (%5592 1144; The Mark Complex, Orchid Ave,
Surfers Paradise) Within this wild west saloon bar
youll find a cigar lounge, sports bar, pool
tables and dance floors playing the latest Top
40 tunes. But the big ol icing on the pecan pie
are the Wild Coyotestyle bar-top dancers
yeehah indeed.
Rose & Crown (%5531 5425; Raptis Plaza, Orchid Ave,
Surfers Paradise) Something of a Gold Coast institution, this enormous drinking and dancing
den has been pulling in the punters for aeons.
There are four areas to choose from ranging
from the sophisticated lounge to the crowded,
sweaty dance floor.
Howl at the Moon (%5527 5522; Shop 7, Level 1,
Centro Surfers Paradise) This hilarious duelling
piano sing-a-long bar is brilliant. Talented
pianists belt out everything from show tunes
and commercial jingles to rap and blues and
encourage the audience to howl along.
Melbas (%5538 7411; 46 Cavill Ave, Surfers Paradise)
Prepare to glam up if youre heading to Melbas. Its a favourite with the beautiful, and
wannabe beautiful, people and is the place to
be seen. Fortunately it also happens to have
excellent DJs and cocktails.
Cocktails & Dreams (%5592 1955; Level 1, The Mark
Complex, Orchid Ave, Surfers Paradise) One of Surfers oldest clubs, this has heard many a chart song come
and go. Its popular for cheesy dance tunes,
cheap drinks and pashing on the dance floor.
The Bedroom (%5592 0088; 26 Orchid Ave, Surfers
Paradise) Boasting one of Surfers best sound
systems is this slick club that blasts R&B and
techno until the early hours. Recline on one
of the many queen-sized beds or shake your
booty with the in crowd.
Gold Coast Arts Centre (%5581 6500; 135 Bundall
Rd, Surfers Paradise) This is attached to the Gold
Coast Art Gallery (p330) and hosts theatrical
productions. For comedy and live jazz check
out the Basement, which is on site. There is
also a cinema here that showcases arthouse
movies.
More entertainment:
Conrad Jupiters Casino(%5592 8100; www.conrad

(%5526 9994; cnr Elkhorn Ave & the Esplanade, Surfers

Paradise; meals $6-10), which also dishes up good

QUEENSLAND

lonelyplanet.com

336 G O L D C OA S T H I N T E R L A N D T o u r s

Meeting Ground Organic Caf & Deli (%5576 3933;

1863 Gold Coast Hwy, cnr First Ave; dishes $7-15) An arty caf
serving excellent wood-fired pizzas plus a whole lot more.

COOLANGATTA
%07 / pop 5029

Theres a lovely, lazy feel to this little surf resort

and although the high-rises are slowly creeping
in, most of the town seems blissfully trapped
in a bygone era. Its an especially fantastic spot
for experienced surfers. There are some good
views down the coast from Point Danger, the
headlands at the end of the state line.
On the main shopping drag is the Coolangatta visitors centre (%1300 309 440; [email protected];
local info. You can get online at the Coolangatta Internet Cafe (%5599 2001; Warner St; per hr $6;
h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun).
Snapper Rocks, Rainbow Bay and Greenmount Point are renowned for their excellent
surf; its more than 1500m of right, sandbar
point breaks and as such gets very, very
crowded. Around the corner, south of Snapper Rocks and Point Danger, lies the beach
break of Duranbah, which throws up short
tube sections and ramps. There are a small
selection of boards available to rent from $30
per day from Retro Groove (%5599 3952; 4/33
McLean St) or Walkin On Water Surf School (%5534
1886; www.walkinonwater.com),which also offers lessons to surfers of all levels.

Sleeping & Eating

Aries Holiday Apartments (%5536 2711; 82 Marine Pde;
apt from $80; ps) Opposite the beach, these
self-contained apartments are a bit tired but,
given their size, they represent good value for
money. All units come with two bedrooms,
two bathrooms and big, breezy balconies.
Bella Mare (%5599 2755; www.bellamare.com.au;
cnr Hill & Boundary Sts; r per 3 nights/week from $405/665,
villas per 2 nights/week from $360/805; pas) This

pretty apartment block has spacious apartments built around a saltwater swimming
pool. The interiors are modern, fresh, and
filled with all the essentials such as cable TV.
Beaches Grill & Coffee Bar (%5536 9311; Coolangatta
Hotel, cnr Marine Pde & Warner St; mains $12-18) Theres
a meal deal every night of the week at this
cheap and cheerful place starting with BarraMunday and ending with the $10 burger deal
on Sunday. The adjacent bar is Coolangattas
drinking hub.

Markwell Caf & Bar (%5536 4544; 64 Griffith St;

mains $10-30) Coconut prawns dipped in beer
batter and served with curry mayonnaise
might not sound appetising, but take it from
us its delicious. As is the Fishermans Hot
Plate, a tower of golden fried prawns, sea scallops, calamari and freshly caught fish.
Also recommended:
Coolangatta YHA (%5536 7644; www.coolangatta
yha.com; 230 Coolangatta Rd, Bilinga; dm $22-24, d $52;
pis) Basic, well-maintained hostel. Breakfast
and courtesy transfers from Coolangatta and Surfers are
included.
Kirra Beach Tourist Park (%5581 7744; www.gctp
.com.au/kirra; Charlotte St, Kirra; unpowered/powered
sites $24/26, cabins from $45; as) Sprawling park
with grassy sites but not many trees. Good wheelchair
access and excellent-value cabins.

GOLD COAST
HINTERLAND
Only a short drive inland from Coolangatta
lies the spectacular Gold Coast Hinterland, an
area frequently overlooked by visitors as they
hare up and down the highways. Those who
venture away from the coastline, however, are
rarely disappointed. The dramatic landscape
wrapped around the McPherson Range, which
stretches back 60km to the NSW border, is
rich with national parks and mountain air.
This unspoilt environment is a medley of
rural plantations, vineyards, thickly forested
valleys, enchanting bushwalking trails and
pristine mountain pools. Easily accessible by
car, the area is the perfect antidote to the cacophony of the coast. Expect a lot of rain in
the mountains from December to March, and
in winter the nights can be cold.

Tours
If you dont have your own wheels then the
only way to access the Gold Coast Hinterland
is on a tour.
4X4 Hinterland Tours (%07-6680 5466, 0429-604
425; www.4x4hinterlandtours.com.au; adult/child from
$125/60) Offers small group 4WD eco-tours to either
Springbrook, Mt Tamborine or Lamington National Parks,
including a trip to OReillys Guesthouse (p338).
Bushwacker Ecotours (%1300 559 355, 07-3871
0057; www.bushwacker-ecotours.com.au; adult/child
from $109/89) An array of eco-tours including day-long
bushwalks and overnight rainforest jungle camps.

lonelyplanet.com

G O L D C OA S T H I N T E R L A N D Ta m b o r i n e M o u n t a i n 337

Scenic Hinterland Day Tours (%07-5531 5536,

5538 2899; www.hinterlandtours.com.au; adult/child
from $52/32) Operates eco-tours exploring Lamington,
Springbrook and Mt Tamborine, tour groups tend to
be large.
Southern Cross 4WD Tours (%1800 067 367,
07-5574 5041; www.sc4wd.com.au; tours adult/child
from $80/45) Specialises in larger 4WD eco-day tours to
Mt Tamborine and a local winery, and a wilderness tour
of Lamington. Lamington National Park, via Mt Tamborine,
with jump-out stops along the way.
See p311 for hinterland tours departing
from Brisbane.

TAMBORINE MOUNTAIN
Just 45km northwest of the Gold Coast stands
Tamborine Mountain (552m), and at 525m
above sea level lies the Tamborine plateau.
This area, and the 13 separate reserves strewn
around the surrounding foothills, makes up
Tamborine National Park. There are gorges,
cascading falls including Witches Falls, Cameron
Falls and Curtis Falls, and walking trails to various scenic lookouts. Near North Tamborine,
the 3.2km Cedar Creek Circuit is one of the most
enjoyable walks in the area, leading you past
gently tumbling falls, rock pools and open
and dry rainforests.
The area is far more developed than Lamington or Springbrook and there are a number
of settlements scattered around the plateau.
These tend to be cutesy heritage communities
set up for the benefit of tour groups.
The visitor information centre (%07-5545 3200;
Doughty Park, Main Western Rd; h10.30am-3.30pm Sun-Fri,
9.30am-3.30pm Sat) at North Tamborine has plenty

of brochures and information on wineries

in the area.
The award-winning Tamborine Mountain
Distillery (%07-5545 3452; 87-91 Beacon Rd, North
Tamborine; h10am-3pm Wed-Sun) is a boutique
distiller that manufactures its own schnapps,
liqueurs and other spirits from organically
grown fruits.
Every Sunday there is a Farmers Market
(Mt Tamborine Showground, Main Western Rd; h8am-noon)

where you can buy yummy local produce.

SPRINGBROOK NATIONAL PARK

West of the Gold Coast, this 900m-high plateau dominates the skyline. Like the rest of
the McPherson Range, it is remnant of a huge
volcano that once centred on Mt Warning
in NSW and erupted more than 20 million
years ago.

The park is divided into three reserves,

Springbrook Plateau, Natural Bridge and Mt Cougal, each with their own features and charms.
The rugged landscape is shaped by gorges,
cliffs and waterfalls and the vegetation is
cool-temperate rainforest and eucalypt forest with closed canopy vines, strangler figs,
palms and epiphytes. There are some excellent walking trails in all three sections,
but particularly around the Springbrook
Plateau.
The village of Springbrook itself is balanced right on the edge of the plateau and
there are several places where you can get
the giddy thrill of leaning right out over the
edge, including Purling Brook Falls, Canyon
Lookout and Best of All Lookout. The pathway to Best of All Lookout is home to several
ancient Antarctic beech trees.
The beautiful Natural Bridge section, off the
NerangMurwillumbah road, has a 1km
walking circuit leading to a rock arch spanning a water-formed cave, which is home to
a huge colony of glow-worms.
The rangers office and information centre
(%07-5533 5147; 87 Carricks Rd; hvariable hours) at
Springbrook provides copies of a walking
track leaflet for all three sections. You can
pitch a tent at the newly established Settlement Campground (sites per person/family $4.50/18),
which has 11 sites including four for caravans. There is no shade or showers here,
but there is an electric barbecue. You need
to book in advance through QPWS (%13 13 04;
www.epa.qld.gov.au).
English Gardens (%07-5533 5244; 2832 Springbrook
Rd; r $159-189) has two quaint cottages set amid
a sprawling English-cum-Australian garden.
Theres also a small caf (mains $4-11; hbreakfast
& lunch).

LAMINGTON NATIONAL PARK

West of Springbrook, this 200-sq-km park
covers much of the McPherson Range and
adjoins the Border Ranges National Park in
NSW. Its a landscape characterised by rugged mountain scenery, subtropical rainforests,
fern gullies, wildflower heaths and some of
Queenslands best bushwalking trails.
The wildlife is equally varied, and commonly seen animals include satin and regent
bowerbirds, and pademelons (a type of small
wallaby). It is also home to rare and threatened species such as the coxens fig parrot and
eastern bristlebird.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

Shop 14b, cnr Griffith & Warner Sts; h8.30am-5.30pm MonFri, 8am-4pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun), which can provide

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

(%1800 074 260, 07-5533 3622; www.binnaburralodge.com.au; Binna Burra

Rd, Lamington National Park; unpowered/powered sites $22/27, 2-/4-/6-person safari tents $55/75/90) Sur-

Binna Burra Campsite

The two most popular and accessible sections

of the park are Binna Burra and Green Mountains,
both reached via paved roads from Canungra.
Binna Burra can also be reached from Nerang.
There are 160km of walking tracks within the
park and some of the favourites include the
excellent tree-top canopy walk along a series
of rope-and-plank suspension bridges at Green
Mountains, and the 21km Border Track that
follows the dividing range between NSW and
Queensland and links Binna Burra to the
OReillys Rainforest Guesthouse.
Walking trail guides are available from the
ranger stations (Binna Burra %07-5533 3584; h1-3.30pm

OReilly family for over 80 years and is at the

forefront of eco-tourism in Queensland. The
resort has been stylishly redeveloped and there
are a multitude of nature-based activities and
tours to enjoy. Theres also a plush restaurant
(mains $25 to $40), which opens nightly, and
the cheaper Gran OReillys Bistro (snacks $5 to
$15), which opens for breakfast and lunch.
There is a QPWS camping ground (%13 13 04;
www.epa.qld.gov.au; sites per person/family $4/16) close
to OReillys. Limited numbers of camping
permits are available and must be obtained in
advance from the ranger at Green Mountains
or by booking online.

Mon-Fri; Green Mountains %07-5544 0634; h9-11am &

1-3.30pm Mon, Wed & Thu, 1-3.30pm Tue & Fri).

Getting There & Away

Sleeping & Eating

Binna Burra Mountain Lodge (%1800 074 260, 075533 3622; www.binnaburralodge.com.au; Binna Burra Rd,
Beechmont; d with/without bathroom incl breakfast from
$250/150) This excellent mountain retreat sits

on a magical spot with the most stunning

views youll possibly ever see. Built in 1933 by
two pioneering conservationists, the original
cabins remain today (number five was the first
one built) and are grouped around a central
restaurant (mains $13 to $18), which is open
for lunch, afternoon tea and dinner.
OReillys Rainforest Guesthouse (%1800 688 722,
07-5544 0644; www.oreillys.com.au; Lamington National Park
Rd; s/d/ste incl breakfast from $145/250/450) This famous

guesthouse at Green Mountains has been in the

The Binna Burra bus service (%07-5533 3622) operates a daily bus for guests, picking up from
Coolangatta airport (1.30pm, one way adult/
child $40/20) and Nerang trains station (2pm,
one way adult/child $30/15) daily.
Allstate Scenic Tours (%07-3003 0700; return day
trip per adult/child $73/39, overnight $69/55) runs a bus
service between Brisbane and OReillys from
Sunday to Friday, leaving Brisbanes Roma St
Transit Centre at 8.30am and arriving back at
the transit centre at around 6pm.
Mountain Coach Company (%07-5524 4249; return
day trip per adult/child/family $48/28/135) has a daily
service from Coolangatta airport to OReillys
via Tamborine Mountain (one hour). If you
want to use this service to stay overnight at
OReillys, the cost is $30 each way.

No
Riv osa
er

Great Sandy
National Park
(Cooloola
Section)

glad

es

Wolvi

AIR

Jetstar (%13 15 38; www.jetstar.com.au) and Virgin

Blue (%13 67 89; www.virginblue.com.au) have multiple daily connections between the Sunshine
Coast Airport (%07-5453 1500; www.sunshinecoastairport
.com; Friendship Ave, Marcoola), near Maroochydore,
and Sydney and Melbourne. At the time of research Virgin Blue was consistently cheaper,
but this can always change. Both airlines also
offer a twice weekly service to Adelaide.
BUS

Greyhound Australia (%13 14 99; www.greyhound.com

.au) and Premier Motor Service (%13 34 10; www
.premierms.com.au) have daily services from Brisbane to Maroochydore ($23, 1 hours), which
continue to Noosa ($27, 2 hours). Premier
also offers a hop-on hop-off backpacker bus
that covers the entire length of coastline between Brisbane and Cairns check the website for up-to-date routes and prices.

Ever

Fig Tree Point

Tin Pannikin
Elanda Point

Kin Kin

Boreen
Point

Pinbarren

QPWS Information Centre

Lake
Cootharaba

Gagaju

Teewah
Beach

Lake Cooroibah Rd

Pomona

Noosa North
Shore Retreat

Lake
Mt Tinbeerwah Cooroibah
Laguna
(265m)
Bay
Noosa
Noosa
Cooroy
National
To
6 Tewantin
Heads
Park
Gympie
Noosaville
(38km)
Sunshine
Bougainvillia
e
Holiday Park
Beach
Lake
g
n
Weyba
1

12

Eumundi

M1

Ginger
Factory

70

Peregian Beach

Eumarella Rd

Mapleton Falls
National Park

Yandina

Coolum
Beach

11

Point Perry

David Low Way

Yaroomba
Marcoola
Maroochydore Airport

Mt Coolum
(208m)

Mapleton

Nambour

Getting There & Around

Harry's Hut Teewah

Coloured
Sands

10

Flaxton
Bli Bli
Big
To Kondalilla
National Park Pineapple
(3km)
8

70

Mudjimba
Beach

Buderim

Montville

HMAS Brisbane

Maroochydore

Alexandra Headland
Mooloolaba

Mooloolah River
National Park

Mooloolah

M1

Landsborough
To
Maleny
Australia
(5km)
Zoo
6

Beerwah

Steve Irwin
Drive
Glass House
Mountains
Glass House Mountains
National Park
Forest Dr
Beerburrum

60

M1

Caloundra

SOUTH
PACIFIC
OCEAN

Bribie
Island

Bribie Island
National Park

Donnybrook
To Woodford (23km);
Bunya Mountains
White Patch
National Park (220km)
Caboolture
85
Airfield

Caboolture

To Brisbane
(45km)

Woorim

Bongaree

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

rounded on all sides by subtropical rainforest, this camping ground has permanent safaristyle tents or you can pitch your own. A communal kitchen should be up and running by the
time you read this.

Freshwater

wy

ground beside a river. There are eight permanent tents that can sleep up to 38, plus hot
water, clean showers and an outdoors rustic Australiana kitchen and communal dining area.

Wreck of
the Cherry
Venture

To Gympie
(25km)

ine M

$15/8) In between Mt Tamborine and Lamington National Park is this upmarket camping

15

Sunsh

(%07-5543 4490; www.springgullystays.com; Sarabah Rd, Canungra; adult/child

Rainbow
Beach

Tin
Can
Bay

wy

Spring Gully Stays

Tin Can Bay

ce H

the scent of eucalyptus and the sound of the nearby rock pools. There are 33 powered and 22
unpowered sites of varying sizes, plus clean bathrooms.

10 km
6 miles

Bru

(%07-5545 0034; Thunderbird Park, Tamborine Mountain

Rd, Mt Tamborine; unpowered/powered sites $18/22) A lovely wooded camp ground brimming with

Tamborine Mountain Caravan & Camping

Splash in the surf and soak up the light on the

sun-drenched Sunshine Coast. The Irwin familys home turf is not only a popular weekend
getaway from the Queensland capital, but it
also serves as home to surfers, singles, families
and grandparents. The line of beaches stretching north from Brisbane is less developed than
its southern neighbour, the Gold Coast, and
offers a mix of low-rise resorts, surf shops,
alfresco bars and residential homes many
fronting miles of golden beaches backed by a
turquoise and navy striped sea.
If your idea of the perfect holiday is morning surf lessons and afternoon caf winedrinking sessions, head to swanky Noosa, the
antipodean answer to Frances Nice. If youd
rather stay cheaply in a funky seaside backpackers and devote your days to skydiving,
sunbathing or body-boarding with the locals,
then opt for Mooloolaba, Alexandra Headland
or Maroochydore all three fit the profile of a
fabulous, laid-back Aussie beach town.
Filling the space between the beach and
the vast emptiness of Queenslands interior
is the Sunshine Coasts undulating hinterland, where charming villages linger on the
outskirts of national parks. Here youll find
the magnificent Australia Zoo, a Queensland
must-see for foreigners.

0
0

MILITARY
TRAINING AREA

To
Maryborough
(50km)

of the prettiest in the Hinterland. The night stars and the morning sunrise are simply otherworldly.

SUNSHINE COAST

lR

(%07-5533 6196; www.quamby.com.au; via Natural Bridge National Park, Natural Bridge;
sites $20) At the foot of this exclusive couples retreat is a bare-bones camp site that is one

Quamby Falls

SUNSHINE COAST

S U N S H I N E C OA S T G e t t i n g T h e re & A r o u n d 339

al

BEST SPOTS TO PITCH A TENT IN THE GOLD COAST HINTERLAND

lonelyplanet.com

ck

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

Bl a

338 G O L D C OA S T H I N T E R L A N D L a m i n g t o n N a t i o n a l Pa r k

340 S U N S H I N E C OA S T G l a s s H o u s e M o u n t a i n s

Suncoast Pacific (www.suncoastpacific.com.au; Brisbane

%07-3236 1901; Caloundra %07-5491 2555; Maroochydore
%07- 5443 1011) runs between Brisbanes Roma
St Transit Centre, its airport and to points
along the Sunshine Coast. One-way trips from
Brisbane include Caloundra ($30, two hours),
Maroochydore ($30, two hours) and Noosa
($30, three hours).
The blue minibuses run by Sunbus (%5492
8700) buzz frequently between Caloundra
and Noosa ($6, 1 hours), stopping along
the way. Sunbus also has regular buses from
Noosa to the train station at Nambour on
the Bruce Hwy ($5, one hour), via Eumundi
and Yandina.
Henrys (%5474 0199), Noosa Transfers & Charters
(%5449 9782; [email protected]) and Cols
Airport Shuttle (%5450 5933; www.airshuttle.com.au)
offer transfers from Maroochydore airport
and Brisbane to Sunshine Coast locations. The
cost per adult/child is around $45/25.
Citytrain has services from Nambour to Brisbane ($11.60, two hours). Trains also go to
Beerwah ($7.60, 1 hours), near Australia
Zoo.

GLASS HOUSE MOUNTAINS

%07 / pop 660

The Disney-esque Glass House Mountains are

16 volcanic crags that emerge sporadically from
the humid green surrounds, Jurassic Parkstyle,
and comprise a fragmented national park. The
mountains have held supreme spiritual significance to the local Aboriginal people, and the
story of their creation is important to this day.
Towering to over 500m, with sheer rocky sides,
the distinct look of the mountains is the result
of millions of years of erosion.
Reach the Glass House Mountains National
Park via a series of sealed and unsealed roads
off Steve Irwin Drive (formerly Glass House
Mountains Rd). Coming from the Bruce Hwy,
take the Landsborough exit.
There are hikes for all fitness levels. Grab a
map from the QPWS Office (%5494 3983; 61 Bunya
St; h7am-3.30pm) in Maleny. Start your day with
a drive to the Glass House Mountains lookout. The
sheltered fire tower provides a platform to view
the peaks and Sunshine Coast beaches. The
lookout circuit (800m) is a short walking track
that leads through open scribbly gum forest,
down a wet gully before circling back. It can
be quite steep at times.

For something more intense, check out the

1.4km (return) hike to the summit of Mt Ngungun (253m). It has impressive views of the four
major peaks and a bit of challenging hiking
keep the kids close as the steep trail passes
close to the cliff line and can be slippery.
Bouldering fanatics can catch a thrill summiting Tibrogargan (3km return) and Beerwah
(2.6km return); both hikes require some free
base scrambles up loose rock.

CALOUNDRA
%07 / pop 92,300

Caloundra is a cathartic spot to base your

Sunshine Coast odyssey. Sunny and classy
with azure water and sweeping Glass House
Mountain vistas, it is set along a curvaceous
shoreline with seven lovely surf beaches.
Caloundra is the kind of easy-on-the-eyes
quiet family resort emitting the kind of deep
sleepy seaside vibe that entices you to stay
well beyond your intended checkout. Which
isnt a bad thing, as there is plenty to keep you
entertained, and in shape, at the Sunshine
Coasts southern most beach.
Check out Bulcock Beach near the main
street for sunbathing, surfing and windsurfing. You can also catch waves at the hot, but
still friendly, Kings Beach, while Dicky, Moffat,
Currimundi, Wurtulla and Buddina Beaches at the
northern end of Caloundras coastline are
also worth visiting. Learners can head to North
Caloundra Surf School (%0422-332 730; 2hr lesson from
$60), which comes well recommended. Beach
Beat (%5491 4711; 112 Burcock St; surf/body boards per
day $35/25; h9am-5pm) is just one of a few places
to rent boards.
Caloundra is a very popular spot for skydiving and Sunshine Coast Skydivers (%5437
0211; Caloundra Aerodrome; tandem jumps from $180) offers 65 seconds of free fall from 15,000 feet
over the azure South Pacific. Its a high all
right. (Hint: only jump on a fair weather day
when the winds arent too high, unless you
like being rocked around and have a strong
stomach.)

lonelyplanet.com

A YANKS EYE VIEW OF AUSTRALIA ZOO Becca Blond

I have seen some amazing things authoring books for Lonely Planet these last few years (eg
safaris in South Africa, diving off Bora Bora) but I can honestly say that my trip to the Australia
Zoo (%5494 1134; www.australiazoo.com.au; Steve Irwin Dr, Beerwah; adult/child/family $49/29/146; h9am4.30pm) made my worlds top ten list.
When my editors at Lonely Planet encouraged me to visit the Australia Zoo (to see all the
animals) I privately shuddered. Normally I dont like to see animals in cages. But the Australia
Zoo is nothing like a typical zoo. The animals arent in cages; instead, they roam through seminatural habitats spread over acres, many of which you can walk directly through. Push through
a big metal gate and suddenly youll find yourself in kangaroo country. Irwins roos are used to
people and extremely friendly.
Other zoo highlights include the slightly cheesy shows at the Crocoseum, which do a good
job pitching conservation in a lively and engaging manner. (On a side note, all the zoos crocodile
actors are problem crocs that have been rescued from populated areas.)
The Australia Zoo was the lifes work, and great love, of charismatic conservationist Steve Irwin.
Visiting the zoo less than a year after the Crocodile Hunters death, it was obvious how much his
presence was still very much around. I was blown away by the sheer number of personal tributes
to everyones favourite wildlife warrior lining the railings around the show arena.
Despite Irwins untimely death, his family plans to carry on the Croc Hunters legacy of animal
conservation and education. Before he died, Irwin envisioned the 121-hectare site as a world zoo,
and plans to expand it are underway. A new elephant exhibit opened in 2007, and the African
animal extravaganza known as Madagascar Island is not far behind.
Profits from zoo admissions directly help endangered species and fund an on-site wildlife
hospital. There are free transfers between the zoo and Noosa Heads, Coolum, Maroochydore,
Alexandra Headlands, Mooloolaba and Caloundra; ring %5436 2000 to book.

Belaire Place (%5491 8688; www.belaireplace.com;

34 Minchinton St; r from $120; pas) Spacious,

Caloundra City Backpackers (%5499 7655; www.ca

sparkling and sunny four-star apartments

overlooking Bulcock Beach at unbeatable
prices are the hallmark of Belaire. Abodes
feature bright and modern interiors with
kitchens, balconies big enough to park a truck
on, and ocean or mountain views from plateglass windows. A saltwater swimming pool
and on-site gym are icing on the cake.
La Promenade (%5499 7133; www.lapromenade.com
.au; 4 Tay Ave; r from $130; as) These waterfront
units are upmarket and chic, with romantic
mosquito nets covering the beds, terracotta
tile floors and spa baths in every room. The
rooftop family-sized spa is definitely a bonus,
especially for stargazing at night. If youre
feeling lazy, the boardwalk caf overlooking
the water isnt a bad place to pass the evening.
La Promenade is near Bulcock Beach. The low
season rate of $130 is a steal.

loundracitybackpackers.com.au; 84 Omrah Rd; dm/tw/d

$22/45/55) Overall this is a functional and ultra-

Eating

clean, if slightly sterile looking (think white on

white), place. The doubles have en suites and
TVs, but book ahead as there are only four. It
is consistently popular.

Dicky Beach Surf Club (%5491 6078; Coochin St; mains

$12; hlunch & dinner) This clubs Wreck Restaurant dishes up big portions that are easy on
the wallet. This is a really solid deal if youre

Sleeping

S U N S H I N E C OA S T M a r o o c h y 341

on a low budget. The club allows visitors in

free, though you have to sign in.
Above Board (%5491 6388; Shop 8, the Esplanade;
mains $14-30) A sophisticated menu and relaxed
vibe greet you at this subtly trendy eatery.
You can rock up in jeans and dine on mahi
mahi fillets with macadamia pesto dressing, or
pistachio-stuffed pork fillets sitting on a wineglazed mash. Brekkie and lunch are simpler.
Buses stop at Comma Tce. Look for the
terminal one block back from Bulcock Beach.
Sunbus (%5492 8700) runs shuttles to Noosa
($6.20, 1 hours) that stop in Maroochydore
($3.80, 50 minutes).

MAROOCHY
%07 / pop 46,617

If youre asking around about Sunshine Coast

surf spots, youll likely hear Maroochydore,
Alexandra Headland and Mooloolaba mentioned. Its a bit confusing, but these popular
beaches, along with neighbouring Cotton
Tree, make up the conglomeration of suburbs
officially referred to as Maroochy. Each beach
has its own style, but all feature a strip of cafs
and shops lining a main street running parallel to the beach. This is the most developed

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

TRAIN

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342 S U N S H I N E C OA S T M a r o o c h y

LOCAL TRIVIA
Did you know Maroochydore is actually
a deviation of the local Aboriginal word,
murukutchi-da, which translates to the
home of the black swan? Although black
swans can sometimes be seen floating
along one of Maroochydores waterways,
these days its more likely that youll spot
a pelican.

Information
Maroochy Tourism Information Booths Mooloolaba
(%5478 2233; www.discovermaroochy.com.au, www
.tourismsunshinecoast.com.au; cnr Brisbane Rd & First
Ave, Mooloolaba; h9am-5pm); Maroochydore airport
(%5448 9088; Friendship Dr, Marcoola; h9.30am3pm)
Maroochy Visitors Centre (%1800 882 032, 5479
1566; www.maroochytourism.com; cnr Sixth Ave &
Melrose St, Maroochydore; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to
4pm Sat & Sun) Super-helpful with free accommodation
booking service.

Sights & Activities

In the last decade Mooloolaba has melded
itself into one of Queenslands best all-round
beach destinations. Its beautiful, long sandy
beaches, consistent surf and loads of rental
houses have long made it a favourite with
families, but recently Mooloolaba has become
hip with the cool crowd as well. Singles, surfers and trendsetters all mingle, Noosa-style,
in the street-side cafs and modern shops by
day, then retire for cocktails at a trendy lounge
aprs-sunset.
Get up close and personal with more than
25,000 whacky but wonderful sea creatures at
Underwater World (%5444 8488; The Wharf, Mooloolaba;
adult/child/family $23/13/60; h9am-6pm), Queenslands largest oceanarium. Swimming with the
seals is a highlight for many guests although

lonelyplanet.com

beware these slippery mammals like to give

out lots of kisses!
There are numerous good surf breaks
along the strip including riding to the left
or right of the surf patrol at the main beaches
of Mooloolaba, Alexandra Heads and Maroochydore. Pin Cushion, near the mouth of
the Maroochy River, is probably the best. It
is particularly good in winter thanks to the
southerly swells and southwesterly winds.
Its lure in summer is fewer numbers; most
visitors head to the more easily accessed Maroochy and Memorial Ave.
If you want to dance the waves like a pro,
check out Robbie Sherwells XL Surfing Academy

of a Hollywood set: creamy leather couches

are paired with a red American Indianstyle
floor rug, balconies come with glass tables and
deck chairs and overlook the river, and there
are spa baths, lots of light, and ocean and river
views from the windows. Outdoor amenities
include a fabulous infinity pool, a gym and
steam rooms. During the Christmas holidays
expect prices to nearly quadruple for the twoand three-bedroom apartments.

(%5478 1337; 63 Oloway Cres, Alexandra Headlands; per

person $20; h9.30am Mon-Fri, 7.30am Sat) to get your

popular restaurant where most diners choose

to partake in the copious outdoor seating facing Mooloolabas main promenade. Its good
for people-watching.
Hot Pipis (%5444 4441; Shop 3/11 the Esplanade,
Mooloolaba; mains $15-24) This breezy street-side
eatery exudes effortless style; the atmosphere
is cool but the seafood-dominated menu positively sizzles with items such as red curry of
Moreton Bay bugs, black-lip mussels, tiger
prawns and barramundi. You better leave
room for dessert.
Earth (%5477 7100; Level 1, Mooloolaba International,

grooves down with a one-hour lesson. Rent

boards from Beach Beat (%5443 2777; 164 Alexandra
Pde, Alexandra Headland; surf-/body boards per day $35/25;
h9am-5pm).

Sleeping
Cotton Tree Beachouse Backpackers (%5443 1755;
www.cottontreebackpackers.com; 15 the Esplanade, Cotton
Tree; dm/s/d $22/44/50) Virtually on the beach and

sheltered by foliage, Cotton Tree gets great reviews from past guests. Perks include a spa and
free use of kayaks and boogie boards. Check
out the sunset from the large veranda. A lack
of air-con is one drawback when its hot.
Heritage Motor Inn (%5443 7355; heritagemotor

Eating

S U N S H I N E C OA S T A r o u n d M a r o o c h y 343

views, flawless service and sublime cuisine.

All in all, its an immaculate ingestion. Expect
creations like blue-swimmer crab risotto or
twice-cooked pork curry with Thai basil and
chilli. The wine list is suitably divine.
Also recommended:
Sunshine Plaza (Horton Pde, Maroochydore; meals $5-8)
Takeaway and supermarket.
Raw Energy (%5446 1444; Shop 3, the Esplanade,
Mooloolaba; dishes $6-13; hbreakfast & lunch) Vegetarian fare, fresh juice and smoothies.

Cracked Pepper (%5452 6700; Shop 1, Mooloolaba Inter-

Getting There & Away

national, cnr Venning St & the Esplanade, Mooloolaba; mains

$10-20) Sophisticated caf fare is served at this

Long-distance buses stop at the Suncoast Pacific

bus terminal (%5443 1011; First Ave, Maroochydore), just
off Aerodrome Rd.

AROUND MAROOCHY

cnr Venning St & the Esplanade, Mooloolaba; mains $26-30;

hlunch & dinner) Heaven would be more apro-

Theres little in the way of industry, but if the

winds are blowing right theres a lot in the way
of waves at Coolum and Peregian Beaches, both
favourites with local surfers when theres good
swell. The coastal views from Point Perry are
delicious, and theres also the chance to climb
Mt Coolum for birds-eye vistas. Get details at
the visitor information office (David Low Way; h9am1pm Mon-Sat) look for it off the main drag from
Maroochy towards Coolum and Peregian.
On Peregian Beach, the best sleeping bet is the
crisp, clean and spacious Pacific Blue Apartments

pos this chic restaurant has 90-degree ocean

(% 5448 3611; www.pacificblueapartments.com.au;

[email protected]; 69 Sixth Ave, Mooloolaba; r $85-95; as)

Muscle past the kitsch exterior as far motels

go this ones a winner. The spacious rooms are
cool, bright and spotless. The hosts are superfriendly and if a spot of rain dampens your
beach plans there are free in-house movies.
It is wheelchair friendly.
Coral Sea Apartments (%5479 2999; www.coralsea
-apartments.com; 35-37 Sixth Ave, Maroochydore; apt 2
nights from $385; as) These yawning two- and

three-bedroom apartments, with large balconies, occupy a lovely spot close to Maroochy
Surf Life Saving Club and the beach. Inside
youll find tasteful dcor and extra goodies
such as dishwashers, wide-screen TVs and
videos. During the off season its possible to
rent apartments for $150 per night and there
are often great midweek specials three nights
for $340.
The Duporth Riverside (%1300 766 014; www
.theduporth.com.au; 6 Wharf St, Maroochydore; apt 2 nights
from $400; ais) This ultra-modern luxury

apartment building looks like it should be part

ECO-FRIENDLY DIVING EXPLORING THE HMAS BRISBANE

The hottest new dive spot in Australia isnt on the Great Barrier Reef. In fact, its not even around
a natural reef at all its a ship thats been deliberately sunk off the Mooloolaba coast. And ever
since the decommissioned warship HMAS Brisbane (which served in the Vietnam and Gulf wars)
took its fateful 27m plunge to the bottom of the ocean in July 2005, its become the must-do
activity whether youre visiting or living on the Sunshine Coast. Local dive shops have seen a
major boom in business since the sinking of the ship attracting about 800 divers each month
to their shores. By the end of 2006 around 5000 people had experienced the phenomenon.
So whats so great about a sunken ship? Well, its not just the ship thats cool, its also the
amazing artificial reef that surrounds it. The reef surprised everyone when it grew prolifically
and quickly became home to a wild variety of marine species from bat fish to coral trout, and
turtles to starfish. Plus, the ship appears to be perfectly positioned. It is protected from swell
that affects area reefs and the water is a clear deep blue.
Wreck diving is the eco-friendly way to go in these times of rising water temperatures and
destruction of living coral ecosystems from pollution, boat anchors and too much human contact. Diving through a ship wreck is a super cool and slightly spooky experience, allowing you
to explore the deep below without threatening the environment.
You must have dive certification to dive the HMAS Brisbane. Sunreef Dive Centre (%5444 5656;
www.sunreef.com.au; 110 Brisbane Rd, Mooloolaba) and Scuba World (%5444 8595; www.scubaworld.com
.au; The Wharf, Mooloolaba) both make the 20-minute journey out to the wreck. A half-day trip, which
includes two dives, costs around $120.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

patch of the Sunshine Coast and is becoming permanent residence to more and more
Australians each year. The downside of all
this migration is a growing suburban spread,
but happily its yet to turn to outright sprawl.
Inland suburbs like Buderim still feature quiet
roundabouts and shopfronts looking like they
date from the 1950s.
Book ahead if you arrive during the summer school holidays (Christmas through as
late as the third week of January).

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

344 S U N S H I N E C OA S T N o o s a

236 David Low Way, Peregian Beach; apt $90-160; s). Digs

have lots of windows and tasteful wicker furniture. A location near the pub and the beach
is a bonus.
A convivial dinner spot, Castros Bar &
Restaurant (%07-5471 7555; cnr Frank St & Beach Rd,
Coolum; mains $15-25; hdinner) isnt exactly Fidelapproved revolutionary with its menu, but it
does serve delicious wood-fired pizzas alongside creative salads, risottos, pastas and mains.
Radicals of all ages are welcome.

NOOSA
And then there was Noosa Like many visitors, you may fall hard for this little beach
resort scattered around the crystalline waters
of Noosa Sound. It delivers fine surf, fine sun,
fine food and comfortable beds. Although a
surf atmosphere predominates there are
breaks for all levels, from the beginner waves
at Noosa Spit meant for big foam boards to
the harsher reality of the brutal beach dump
at Sunshine Beach Noosa also has a snooty
side. Trendy Hastings St could be the main
shopping district in Cannes, with its Mediterranean ambience, leafy pavement cafs
and shops offering a blend of surfer chic and
haute couture.
Experience Noosas grungier side by exploring Noosa Junction and Sunshine Beach.
Both are refreshingly down to earth and filled
with vintage shops (where you can sometimes
find designer duds for just dollars); cafs selling cheap brekkies, thick, healthy smoothies and freshly squeezed juices; secondhand
bookshops; and surf shops where you can find
a bargain on used board.
The area north of Noosa River is preserved
as the Cooloola Section of the Great Sandy
National Park, a haven for 4WD driving, hiking and kayaking.

Orientation
Encompassing a group of communities around
the mouth of the Noosa River, Noosa has more
roundabouts than any other Queensland town
over 100 at last count. It is very easy to get lost,
so its best to carry a map if youre driving,
until you get used to the place!
Most action focuses on Noosa Heads, home
of trendy Hasting St, and the access point for
the main surf beach. If you want to surf the beginner breaks, or sunbathe with fewer people,
drive to the far western end of Hasting St and

continue through a number of roundabouts

until you can drive no further. Park here and
go round the point to the surf patrolled beach
to the right. This area, known as Noosa Spit,
can also be reached via a footpath from the far
west end of Hastings St; follow the signs.
Most of the accommodation options are a
few minutes drive from Noosa Heads along
the mouth of the Noosa River in Noosaville
or Tewantin. Youll also find restaurants clustered along Gympie Tce and Gibson Rd, the
two main drags through Noosaville.
Uphill from Noosa Heads is Noosa Junction, which is the administrative centre of
town look for the post office, supermarket
and cinema here. There is also a backpackers
and a number of places to eat, shop and drink.
Over on the east coast from Noosa headland is
the peaceful resort of Sunshine Beach. It has a
few restaurants, shops and holiday apartments
to let by the week.

Information
You will find ATMs and banks in Noosa
Junction.
Adventure Travel Bugs (%1800 666 720, 5474 8530;
9 Sunshine Beach Rd, Noosa Junction; per hr $2; h8am8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun) Internet access and
super-friendly budget tours and ticket booking service.
Noosa Visitor Information Centre (%1800 448
833, 5447 4988; www.tourismnoosa.com.au; Hastings St;
h9am-5pm) A helpful service.
Post office (%5473 8591; 91 Noosa Dr)
QPWS centre (%5447 3243; h9am-3pm) Located
at main entrance to Noosa National Park, 2km southwest
of town.

Sights
Noosa is the perfect town to stroll around.
There is nothing historical to see, but it
has enough shops filled with apple- and
caramel-coloured dresses, musty old books
and row after row of surfboards to entertain both sexes for hours. If you want to
go upmarket, try Hastings St (stop for a coffee at one of the pavement cafs) in Noosa
Heads. Here youll also find Noosa Main Beach
and the main entrance to Noosa National Park
(%5447 3243; h9am-3pm). The 2km-long park
has fine walks, great coastal scenery and a
string of popular bays for surfing on the
northern side. Sunshine Beach is perfect for
walking keep the kids occupied counting
the number of bluebottles washed up on the
beach. Alexandria Bay, on the eastern side of

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

the national park, has the best sand and is

also an informal nudist beach.

Activities
Surfing lessons are big business in Noosa; see
the boxed text, p348, for details.
The Noosa River is excellent for canoeing,
and its possible to follow it up through Lakes
Cooroibah and Cootharaba, and through the
Cooloola Section of the Great Sandy National
Park to just south of Rainbow Beach Rd.
Ocean & River Kayak Tours (%0418-787 577; www
.noosakayaktours.com) offers two-hour sea-kayaking
tours ($6) that stop for snorkelling in Laguna
Bay if youre lucky, youll see turtles and dolphins. Look for them in a parking lot behind
Hastings Street.
For the hard-core paddler, Peterpan Adventure Travel (%1800 777 115; www.peterpans.com; Shop
3, 75 Noosa Dr, Noosa Junction; per person $130) offers
three-day canoe tours into the national park,
including tents and equipment.

Tours
A number of operators offer trips from Noosa
to Fraser Island. All include the major Fraser
Island highlights such as Lake MacKenzie
and Seventy Five Mile Beach. Most hotels
can book these day tours. The following are
recommended:
Fraser Island Excursions (%5449 0393; www.fraser
islandexcursions.com.au; tours $160) Small day tours take
place in comfortable 4WD minibuses much preferred to
the giant 40-seaters some companies use. Tours include a
gourmet lunch and get a good reception from readers.
Fraser Island Adventure Tours (%5444 6957; www
.fraserislandadventuretours.com.au; adult/child $145/105)
An industry award-winner for its day tours. These trips also
use the smaller 4WD minibuses and include a barbecue
lunch.

Sleeping
The vast majority of accommodation is in selfcontained units, although there are several
backpacker hostels and caravan parks. With
the exception of the last two, accommodation
prices may rise by 50% during school holidays
and 100% in the December to January peak
season.
BUDGET

Despite its rep as a luxury resort, Noosa has

a surprising number of budget abodes. In the
high season these are snapped up fast, so do
your legwork in advance and book online.

S U N S H I N E C OA S T N o o s a 345

YHA Halse Lodge (%1800 242 567, 5447 3377; www

.halselodge.com.au; 2 Halse Lane, Noosa Heads; dm/d $27/70;
i) This place is perpetually fully booked, so
get online and grab a room way in advance if
you plan on sleeping its hallowed dorms. Elevated from Hastings St by a steeeep driveway,
this 100-year-old Queenslander has a kind
of Old South USA charm think big, white
porches and lots of wide open spaces and circling ceiling fans. The dorms and kitchen are
a tad cramped, but the bar is a hive of social
activity. The place is just across from the bus
stop and offers guests free use of surf and
boogie boards.
Koala Beach Resort (%1800 357 457, 5447 3355;
www.koala-backpackers.com; 44 Noosa Dr, Noosa Junction;
dm $27, tw & d $70; is) Part of the immensely

popular Koala chain, it gives a lot of bang

for your buck: huge dorms, good facilities
and plenty of party action. Its in the heart of
Noosa Junction, which makes it a good base
for accessing Sunshine Beach, and has eating
options just outside the door.
Sandy Court Holiday Units (%5449 7225; fax 54 73
0397; 30 James St, Noosaville; units from $75; s) Down
a quiet residential street, these mini houses
with full kitchen, living room and one or two
bedrooms are unbeatable value, as long as
you can live without air-con. Although the
friendly owner graciously supplies a herd of
whirling stand-up fans, it can still get hot.
Space-wise its a great deal forget about
fighting with your mate over sleeping versus
TV! The dcor is nothing fancy, but everything is very clean.
MIDRANGE & TOP END

Accommodation on Hastings St can be ridiculously expensive, but the tariffs drop markedly
along Gympie Tce, the riverside main road
through Noosaville. For private units to rent,
call Accom Noosa (%1800 072 078; www.accomnoosa
.com.au; Shop 5, Fairshore Apartments, Hastings St, Noosa
Heads). Theres often a three-night minimum

stay for these.

oAnchor Motel Noosa (%5449 8055; www
.anchormotelnoosa.com; cnr Anchor St & Weyba Rd, Noosaville;
r from $100; as) At our favourite place to stay

in Noosa, the owners have spent lots of time

turning this place into a boutique motel. It offers unique furnishings, like porthole windows
and blue-sailor striped comforters, cool tile
floors and a Scandinavian-style table set (all
brand new). The small pool has a real Jacuzzi
with jets and a tasteful faux-rock design. Plus

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

%07 / pop 34,539

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Weyba Rd

the Anchor Motel is centrally located between

Hastings St and Noosa Junction.
Noosa Village Motel (%5447 5800; www.noosa
village.com; 10 Hastings St; r from $120; a) Good-value
accommodation on Hastings St need we
say more? This cheery cinderblock motel
with bright yellow and blue paint is right in
the thick of things, just a few minutes walk
in either direction to the beach. It gets good
remarks from guests for cleanliness, friendliness and location. Rooms are big boxy affairs
with one wall devoted to windows. The place
organises all sorts of tours, including trips to
Fraser Island.
Sheraton Noosa Resort (% 5449 4888; www

4
18

un

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osa

Devil's
Kitchen

osa

16

21 Be
10
ach
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31 astings S
2
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17
12 20
33
19
Pde
35
osa
No
Noosa
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15

30 28

Munna
Pt

Noosa
Junction

a Dr

Robert St

Lion
Rock

Vi e w

Mary S
t

Alexandria
Bay

Noosa
National
Park

250 m

a M
ain

t
t S

To Noosa Valley
Winery B&B (9km);
Eumundi (15km)

Rd

Alexandria
Beach

Dr

os
No

Hasting
s St
Noosa
Heads

Noosa
Hill

Pa

Noosa
Woods

let

rk

sa In
Noo

Noos

27

n
Gra

12

Little
Cove

Hells
Gates

Rd

Noosa
Heads

Witches
Cauldron

Pa
rk

Laguna
Bay
Noosa
Main Beach

Tea T
Ba

Granite
Bay

Gibson Rd

Boiling
Point

TRANSPORT
Long-Distance Bus Stop...35 F2
Noosa Spit

F2
C4
F2
F4
C3
F2
B4
F2
F3

25
5

Dolp

23

Rd

ay

beds, balconies, kitchenettes and spas. The

Sheraton also has four bars, three restaurants,
and a gym, sauna and spa. There are some
great deals if you book online. Its wheelchair
friendly.
Emerald (%1800 803 899, 5449 6100; www.emerald

Also recommended is Noosa Parade Holiday

Inn (%5447 4177; www.noosaparadeholidayinn.com; 51
Noosa Pde, Noosa Heads; r $120; as). It offers all the
bland comforts, and reliable good quality, of
a midrange chain hotel.

noosa.com.au; 42 Hastings St, Noosa Heads; r $240-460;

as) The Emeralds stylish, angular archi-

CAMPING

tecture makes it look like a piece of modern

art. Inside, this hip place has indulgent rooms
bathed in ethereal white and sunlight. Expect
clean and crisp edges and exquisite furnishings. All of the rooms are self-contained and
the mod cons are so lovely youll miss them
when you leave. The location, right on Hastings St, is also perfect. At night the attached
restaurant, Rococo (mains $20 to $35), serves
lots of seafood, has a big wine list and showcases live music.

[email protected]; 141 Coooroy-Noosa Rd, Tewantin; unpowered/powered sites from $30/34, cabins $65-120; as)

Bougainvillia Holiday Park (%1800 041 444, 5447 1712;

Neat as a pin, this is the choicest camping option in the Noosa area. The facilities are spotless, theres an on-site caf and petrol station,
and disabled travellers have ample facilities.

Eating
Noosa has no shortage of restaurants from
casual pavement cafs to high-end gourmet
meals.

NOOSA HEADS & HASTINGS ST

Hastings St and the Noosa Head area is where

to head for sophisticated dining.
Aromas Noosa (%5474 9788; 32 Hastings St; mains
$10-20) Dine alfresco at this Parisian-style caf
serving all sorts of coffee drinks, big breakfasts (we liked the yoghurt and fresh fruit for
$10) and lunches that include the essential
Ss salads, seafood and sandwiches. Theres
also a kiddie menu and a gelato bar, perfect for
bribing the babies with. After dinner, Aromas
turns into a trendy wine bar.
Trattoria Ma Mensa (%5449 2328; 6 Hastings St;
mains $15-25; hlunch & dinner) Dining under the
Trattorias shady canopy, set behind a thin
perimeter of greenery, almost feels like Italy.
And after dipping into the food youll likely
believe youve arrived. The menu is short and
sweet, with a choice of five or six pastas, as
well as a small but carefully thought-out list
of poultry, steak and seafood. The wine list,
both Australian and imported, is longer than
the menu. Overall Trattoria is an intimate
place for an almost genuine Italian dining
experience.
oCaf Le Monde (%5449 2366; Hastings
St; mains $17-28) And then there was Caf Le
Monde We liked the place so much we returned twice (a rare treat for a travel writer!).
Order mussels they are divine, cooked in a
light wine, cream and garlic sauce. If youre
a dining with a partner, the mussels pair perfectly with vegetarian fettucine. Otherwise,
theres not a fussy palate or dietary need that
isnt catered for on the enormous menu. The
large, open-air patio buzzes with diners digging into burgers, seared tuna steaks and curries. Some nights the place rocks out with
live music.
Bistro C (%5447 2855; On the Beach Arcade, Hastings St;
mains $18-26) Famous for its quirky people sculptures, this boisterous bistro is pure yuppie.
The egg-fried calamari with chilli, lime and
coriander dip is legendary and you get to wine
and dine in a wonderful location overlooking
Noosa Main Beach. This place serves food
between meals, which is rare in these parts.
Berardos (%07-5447 5666; Hastings St, Noosa Heads;
mains $26-33; hdinner) Beautiful Berardos is culinary utopia, from the sun-dappled setting
swimming in elegance to the heavenly food.
Delicate dishes such as spiced local seafood
hotpot with saffron and tomato, or grilled
eye fillet steak with horseradish and thyme
gallette and balsamic jus, will lull you into a

QUEENSLAND

Gympie Tce

Fairy
Pools

ENTERTAINMENT
Noosa 5 Cinemas.............34 F4

To Tewantin (1km);
Bougainvillia Holiday Park (2km);
Ferry to North Shore (3km)
6

SOUTH PACIFIC
OCEAN

aS
rin

QUEENSLAND

DRINKING
Cato's..............................31 F2
Koala Bar.......................(see 13)
Reef Bar...........................32 F3
Zachary's.........................33 F2

N oosa Dr

SLEEPING
Accom Noosa.......................10
Anchor Motel Noosa........... 11
Emerald................................12
Koala Beach Resort...............13
Noosa Parade Holiday Inn....14
Noosa Village Motel.............15
Sandy Court Holiday Units...16
Sheraton Noosa Resort.........17
YHA Halse Lodge.................18

Sunshine Foodstore..........29 E4
Trattoria Ma Mensa.........30 F2

No
o

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Merrick's Learn to Surf
(Meeting Point)................(see 9)
Noosa Longboards.................4 F2
Noosa Longboards.................5 A3
Noosa Surf Lessons
(Meeting Point)................(see 9)
Ocean & River Kayak Tours
(Meeting Point).................6 C2
Peter Pan Adventure Travel....7 F4
QPWS Centre........................8 D2
Wavesense (Meeting Point)...9 C2

EATING
Aroma's Noosa................19 F2
Berardo's..........................20 F2
Bistro C............................21 F2
Caf Le Monde.............(see 20)
Canteen...........................22 F4
Coles
Supermarket................23 F4
Fusions.............................24 B3
Gusto...............................25 B3
Lazuli Blue Caf...............26 F4
Lindoni's..........................27 F2
Seawater Caf.................(see 5)
Sierra...............................28 F2

nd

INFORMATION
Adventure Travel Bugs...........1 F4
Noosa Visitor Information
Centre................................2 F2
Post Office.............................3 F4

1 km
0.5 miles

348 S U N S H I N E C OA S T N o o s a

lonelyplanet.com

Today I am supposed to learn how to surf. Im pretty stoked, although I have to admit this has
more to do with getting to wear the cool cerulean blue Billabong rashie that I bought down the
street than excitement over thrusting myself face first into a 3m wave.
Surfing proves easier and harder than I expected. If I had been on one of the foam beginner
boards (take it from a surf virgin, dont try to be macho and ride your fiancs advanced board
just because you think it looks better with your 5ft frame), I might actually have stood up. As it
was, the baby waves Noosa Spit was throwing turned out to be perfect for body boarding just
catching a wave on my stomach was a rush, but due to the boards slim size it was seriously fast
and I had serious trouble getting up from my knees before the ride was over.
With a string of fine breaks around an unspoilt national park, Noosa is a fine place to catch a
wave. The best year-round break is probably Sunshine Corner, at the northern end of Sunshine
Beach, though it has a brutal beach dump. The point breaks (First Point to Granite Bay) around
the headland only perform during the summer, but when they do, expect wild conditions and
good walls at Boiling Point and Tea Tree, on the northern coast of the headland. Noosa Spit, on
the far end of Hastings St, has gentle breaks that are heavenly for the novice unlike at Sunshine
Beach, riders are protected from open water so the rips tend to be less intense.
It seems someone is always learning how to surf at the Spit, and there are a number of
schools based here. Options include Wavesense (%07-5474 9076, 1800 249 076; www.wavesense.com
.au), Noosa Surf Lessons (%0412-330 850; www.noosasurflessons.com.au) and Merricks Learn to Surf
(%0418-787 577; www.learntosurf.com.au). Two-hour group lessons on long boards cost around $55
and generally go out twice per day (9am and 1.30pm).
If you just want to hire equipment, Noosa Longboards (www.noosalongboards.com; Noosa Heads
%07-5447 2828; 64 Hastings St; Noosaville %07-5474 2722; 187 Gympie Tce) has boards for $35/50 per
half/full day. You can also grab a boogie board here ($15/20).

of eggs any way with fresh pesto and vegies,

while for lunch you can savour gargantuan
ciabattas.
Canteen (%5447 5400; 4-6 Sunshine Beach Rd,
Noosa Junction; dishes $8-15; hbreakfast & lunch; i)

A fantastic spot for breakfast, the cuisine is

unusually inventive (think bacon mini-tartlets
with eggs) for this meal. The sassy caf does
a fresh and tasty lunch menu that includes
herb-infused gourmet sandwiches, salads and
veggie options, along with espresso drinks and
fresh fruit juices. It also offers customers 30
minutes of free internet.
Lazuli Blue Caf (%5448 0055; 9 Sunshine Beach Rd,
Noosa Junction; meals $8-15; hbreakfast & lunch) Slow
and lazy eating is mandatory at this relaxed
caf thats long been a favourite smoothie joint
for locals. Colossal fresh juices and smoothies
are the speciality. The lunch Turkish toasties,
salads and overstuffed sandwiches are better
than the egg items on the breakfast menu. The
owners are clued into the local theatre scene.
Coles Supermarket (Noosa Fair Shopping Centre, Lanyana Way, Noosa Junction) Self-caters should head
here.

Drinking & Entertainment

divine coma. Fingers dancing across the keys
of a grand piano in the centre of the restaurant
will keep you awake though.
Also recommended:
Lindonis (%5447 5111; Hastings St, Noosa Heads;
mains $20-30; hdinner) Australian-style Italian.

Sierra (%5447 4800; 10 Hastings St, Noosa Heads;

mains $15-25) Hot little pavement caf with live music.
NOOSAVILLE

If youre staying in Noosaville, check out the

strip along Gibson St its the neighbourhoods restaurant row and is lively until about
9.30pm at night. Many places here are BYO, so
stock up on wine and beer beforehand.
Seawater Caf (%5449 7215; 197 Gympie Tce,
Noosaville; meals $8-20) Noosas exclusive air hits
planet Earth at this kitsch and colourful restaurant, which dishes out excellent seafood
in simple surroundings. Amid a painted sea
of mermaids and other sea paraphernalia you
can also dig into meal-sized sandwiches or the
bargain nightly roast.
Fusions (%5474 1699; 271 Gympie Tce, Noosaville;
mains $15-20) Catching plenty of beach breeze
through the wide open doorways, families,
couples, locals and tourists sit on Fusions

high-backed Balinese chairs inside or at the

oversized tables outside. Gourmet sandwiches,
wood-fired pizzas and spruced-up caf fare
graces the menu.
Gusto (%05449 7144; 257 Gympie Tce, Noosaville; mains
$17-30; hlunch & dinner) Gusto trumps Noosas
classy competition with effortless style, superior service and breezy water-views. The Mod
Oz menu offers Hervey Bay scallops, opulent
bangers and mash, Mooloolaba prawns or
melt-in-your mouth cuttlefish, all marinated,
cooked and served with passion.
NOOSA JUNCTION & SUNSHINE BEACH

Eating options in Noosa Junction tend to

be casual budget-focused affairs, with predominately self-catering supermarkets, takeaway stands and relaxed cafs specialising
in smoothies. Sunshine Beach has just one
small strip of restaurants on Duke St, right
above the beach.
Sunshine Foodstore (%5474 5611; 46 Duke St, Sunshine Beach; dishes $6-14; hbreakfast & lunch) Local
sun-and-coffee addicts tackle newspapers
daily at the outdoor wooden benches of this
ambient caf. Its not just the fix and sunshine
they come for though; brekkies here consist

Both Sierra (opposite) and Caf Le Monde

(p347) have live music some nights.
Zacharys (%5447 3211; 30 Hastings St, Noosa Heads)
This is a shabby-chic, second-storey gourmet
pizza bar with velvet day-bed seats and Aussie
sports memorabilia framed on the walls. Dark
red walls, dim lighting and ambient beats swirl
about trendy young things. Most people come
for the drinks and ambience.
Koala Bar (%5447 3355; 44 Noosa Dr, Noosa Junction)
Noosas backpackers and other free spirits
start their nightly revelry at this popular hostel
bar. Live rock fills every crevice several nights
a week; when it doesnt, the place hums to the
harmony of beer jugs and beery banter.
Reef Bar (%5447 4477; 9 Noosa Dr, Noosaville) A little
bit of country on the coast, the Reef Bar is a
cruisy watering hole with a strong local feel.
Youve every chance of grasping the secrets
of Aussie Rules football, while listening to
Australian rock or dancing to doof-doof.
Catos (%5449 4888; 12-14 Hastings St, Noosa Heads)
The air stays cool in this modern bar thanks to
high ceilings and whirling fans. The design is
also cool, with flat screen TVs and a minimalist look. Unfortunately the same cool factor
cannot be applied to the wicker chairs, which
tend to be a bit uncomfortable. Its a cool spot

S U N S H I N E C OA S T C o o l o o l a C o a s t 349

to sip cocktails at night, nonetheless, when the

beautiful people come out to mingle.
Noosa 5 Cinemas (%1300 366 339; 29 Sunshine Beach
Rd, Noosa Junction) This plush, comfortable cinema
screens the latest blockbusters.

Getting There & Around

Long-distance buses stop at the bus stop
near the corner of Noosa Dr and Noosa Pde;
see p339 for fares. All hostels have courtesy
pick-ups, except Halse Lodge, which is only
100m away.
Sunbus has frequent services between
Maroochydore and Noosa ($4.40, one hour),
and links Noosa Heads, Noosaville, Noosa
Junction etc. Between 26 December and
10 January, and over Easter, there are free
shuttle buses every 10 to 15 minutes stopping frequently between Noosa Junction and
Tewantin.
Riverlight Ferry (%5449 8442; one way per adult/
child/family $9.50/4/25, day pass $13.50/5/35) operates
ferries between Noosa Heads and Tewantin,
six to 10 times a day.
The Other Car Rental Company (%5447 2831;
www.noosacarrental.com; per day from $45) delivers cars
and 4WDs to your door.

COOLOOLA COAST
Stretching north from Noosa to Rainbow
Beach, the Cooloola Coast is a 50km strip of
long sandy beaches, backed by the Cooloola
Section of the Great Sandy National Park.
Remote, undeveloped and a good place for
spotting kangaroos, it nevertheless attracts
crowds at peak times.
With a 4WD you can drive up the beach
at low tide to Rainbow Beach, passing the
Teewah Coloured Sands and the wreck of the
Cherry Venture, swept ashore in 1973.

Lake Cooroibah
About 2km north of Tewantin, the Noosa
River widens out into Lake Cooroibah, which
is backed by some fabulous bushland. Sleeping here is a great alternative to staying in
Noosa especially if you dig native wildlife
and are looking for a more natural slumbering
environment.
From the end of Moorindil St in Tewantin,
you can take the Noosa North Shore Ferry (%075447 1321; one way per pedestrian/car $1/5; h6am-10.30pm
Sun-Thu, 5am-12.30pm Fri & Sat) up to the lake in a

conventional vehicle and camp along sections

of the beach.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

DIARY OF A SURF VIRGIN RIDING NOOSA Becca Blond

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350 S U N S H I N E C OA S T S u n s h i n e C o a s t H i n t e r l a n d

Camel Safaris (%07-5442 4402; www.camelcompany

.com.au; Beach Rd, Noosa North Shore; 1hr ride per adult/child
$50/40, 2hr ride $70/55) operates glorious camel treks
up the beach and through the bush. If youre in
the market for a camel of your own, talk to the
owners about how to purchase one here. Were
not sure about how youll get it home.
If want to go bush, head to Gagaju Backpackers (%1300 302 271, 07-5474 3522; www.travoholic.com/
gagaju; 118 Johns Dr, Tewantin; unpowered sites $10, dm $15),
a riverside eco-wilderness camp with basic
dorms constructed out of recycled timber.
Activities include canoeing, mountain biking
and bushwalking. Nightly campfires add to
the natural ambience. A courtesy shuttle runs
to and from Noosa twice a day.
Set over a sprawling park, Noosa North Shore
Retreat (%07-5447 1706; www.noosanorthshore.com
spot for wildlife spotting, canoeing, bushwalkingor relaxing. Choose from camping or
motel rooms. Theres also a pub (mains $8-15;
hlunch & dinner) and small shop.

Lake Cootharaba
North of Lake Cooroibah is the gorgeous
Lake Cootharaba, which measures about 5km
across and 10km in length. Its reached by
driving northwest of Tewantin. Boreen Point is
a relaxed little community with several places
to stay and eat. The lake is the gateway to the
Noosa Everglades.
From Boreen Point, an unsealed road leads
another 5km up to Elanda Point, where theres
a rangers station (%07-5485 3245; Elanda; h7am4pm), and the headquarters of the Elanda Point
Canoe Company (%1800 226 637, 07-5485 3165; www
.elanda.com.au/noosa; Elanda Point; trips from $120). It runs
one- and two-night unguided canoeing and
camping safaris, which include a boat, camping and cooking gear and transport.
The much-loved Apollonian Hotel (%5485
3100; www.apollonianhotel.com; Laguna St, Boreen Point; dm/
d without bathroom $25/45, mains $12; hlunch & dinner) is

a gorgeous old pub with sturdy timber walls,

shady verandas and a beautifully preserved
interior. Rooms are in the Queenslander out
back. A few retired horses nosh grass on the
grounds, adding to its quirky country charm.
The pub grub is tasty.

Great Sandy National Park (Cooloola)

Kayaking or tearing it up with a 4WD is what
to do in this 54,000-hectare national park east

and north of the lakes. A varied wilderness

of mangroves, forest and heathland that is
traversed by the Noosa River, it is fun to explore with a jeep (available in Noosa) and
drive through the park all the way to Rainbow
Beach (see p355). There are some fantastic
walking trails starting from Elanda Point on
the shore of Lake Cootharaba, including the
46km Cooloola Wilderness Trail to Rainbow
Beach and a 7km trail to the QPWS information
centre (%07-5449 7364; h7am-4pm) at Kinaba
Island.
The park contains about 15 QPWS camping
grounds (sites per person/family $4/16), including Fig
Tree Point at Lake Cootharabas northern
edge; Harrys Hut, 4km further up the river;
and Freshwater, about 6km south of Double
Island Point on the beach. You must purchase
permits for all camping grounds along the
river at Elanda rangers station (%07-5485 3245;
Elanda; h7am-4pm). You can purchase permits
for Harrys Hut, Fig Tree Point, Freshwater
and all beach camping at the QPWS Great Sandy
Information Centre (%07-5449 7792; 240 Moorindil St,
Tewantin; h7am-4pm), which can also provide
information on park access, tide times and
fire bans within the park. Apart from Harrys
Hut and Freshwater, all sites are accessible by
hiking or river only.

SUNSHINE COAST HINTERLAND

There are organised tours of this region,
but with your own transport you can better explore the appealing landscape between
villages.
Locals and visitors flock to the Eumundi markets (h8am-2pm Wed, 6am-2pm Sat), where youll
find everything from homemade cheese graters to aromatic sneeze abators, plus clothing,
food and music in the 200-plus stalls. Sunbus
631 and 630 ($4, one hour, roughly hourly)
will take you here from Noosa Heads.
Inland from Nambour, the Blackall Range
creates a scenic hinterland with appealing
national parks and rather chintzy rustic villages. The scenic MapletonMaleny road runs
along the ridge of the range, past rainforests
at Mapleton Falls National Park, 4km northwest
of Mapleton, and Kondalilla National Park, 3km
northwest of Montville. Both Mapleton and
Kondalilla waterfalls plunge more than 80m,
and their lookouts offer wonderful forest
views.
Midway between Mapleton and Maleny is
Montville, where many residents bring visiting

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

D A R L I N G D O W N S S t a n t h o r p e & t h e G r a n i t e B e l t 351

friends on weekends to browse some fabulous (and other rather dinky) potteries and
craft shops before partaking in an afternoon
pub meal. Ask the information centre (%07-5478
5544; 168 Main St; h10am-4pm) about accommodation.
The Woodford Folk Festival, held annually
during the five days leading up to New Years
Eve, is the closest Australia has to Woodstock.
Woodford is situated southwest of Maleny.

DARLING DOWNS
Wine-tasting trips are the main reason to
explore Darling Downs, the area west of the
Great Dividing Range in southern Queensland. A swathe of rolling plains and endless
blue horizons, the farmland is certainly pastoral, but if there isnt a vineyard on the corner,
there isnt much to go out of your way for.
Spend a day with glass in hand touring the
scenic Granite Belt vineyards, Queenslands
most promising wine-growing district, and
then walk it off amid the dramatic bush landscapes of Girraween and Sundown National
Parks.

Getting There & Away

Greyhound Australia (%13 14 99) has connections from Brisbane to Toowoomba ($15,
two hours), Miles ($49, 5 hours), Roma
($61, eight hours) and Stanthorpe ($56, 4
hours).
Crisps Coaches (%07-4661 8333; www.crisps.com
.au) is the biggest local operator, offering services from Brisbane to Goondiwindi ($50, 5
hours) and Stanthorpe ($45, 3 hours).
The Queensland Rail (%1300 131 722) Westlander runs twice weekly from Brisbane to
Charleville (economy seat/sleeper $100/160,
17 hours) on Tuesday and Thursday, returning on Wednesday and Friday, stopping in
Toowoomba (economy seat/sleeper $30/86,
four hours) and Roma (economy seat/sleeper
$65/120, 11 hours).

STANTHORPE & THE GRANITE BELT

Warwick, 162km southwest of Brisbane, is
Queenslands second-oldest town, but of little
interest to travellers. The area just to its south,
however, has a thriving wine industry. The
Granite Belt is an elevated plateau of the Great
Dividing Range and this high country is renowned for its 40-plus boutique wineries.

The attractive highland town of Stanthorpe

is most famous for being cold it sits at an
altitude of 915m and is one of the few places
in the state that gets snow and even celebrates its chilly climate with an annual Brass
Monkey Festival every July. From October to
mid-June (provided theres been plenty of
rainfall in the year) Stanthorpes fruit-picking
and vineyard working opportunities lure
plenty of backpackers see the boxed text,
p353. To get hooked up with work, try heading to Oz Jobs (%07-4681 3746; cnr Railway & Rogers
Sts, Stanthorpe), which does placements on farms
and vineyards.

Sleeping
Backpackers of Queensland (%0429-810 998; www
.backpackersofqueensland.com.au; 80 High St; per week
$130) One of two Stanthorpe hostels arrang-

ing farm work, Backpackers of Queensland

is a newish place offering clean, five-bed
dorms with en suite bathrooms. During the
May to September harvest season a one-week
minimum stay is required. The hostel gets
mixed reviews from backpackers. Some love
it, praising the big $5 home-cooked dinners
and en suite dorms. Others complain that
the owners are unwelcoming. Its best to visit
before deciding.
Happy Valley (%07-4681 3250; www.happyvalley
retreat.com; Glenlyon Drive; r $88-150) Set amid dense
bush with granite outcrops, this fine resort
offers 20 luxury timber cabins, all with their
own bathrooms and wood fires spread out
over dozens of secluded acres. The theme is
back to nature there are no TVs or phones
in the cabins. The on-site Homestead restaurant serves country breakfasts daily, and
lunch on the weekends.
Escape on Tully (%07-4683 7000; www.escapeontully
.com; 934 Mt Tully Rd; d $100-120) Take the name
literally this B&B is an amazing weekend
retreat for couples or groups. Everyone will
enjoy the sunny north-facing deck and gorgeous views. Despite absolute privacy, its
only 10 minutes into town and to the nearby
wineries.
Camping options:
Blue Topaz Caravan Park (%07-4683 5279; New
England Hwy, Severnlea; powered sites $15, cabins $50)
Good for families; pets are welcome.
Top of the Town Caravan Village (%07-4681 4888;
fax 07-4681 4222; 10 High St; powered sites $18, dm $20,
cabins from $72; is) Popular with seasonal workers
wanting a hostel alternative.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

.au; Beach Rd; unpowered/powered sites from $14/19.50, r

from $120; as) is backed by bush and a great

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352 D A R L I N G D O W N S T o o w o o m b a

Eating
Annas Restaurant (%07-4681 1265; cnr Wallangarra
Rd & OMara Tce; dishes $9-17; hdinner Mon-Sat) This
family-run, Italian BYO restaurant is inside a
cosy Queenslander. It is famous locally for the
weekend buffets (adult/child $28/14) where
you can gorge yourself on antipasto platters,
hearty pasta and a vast array of veal, poultry
and seafood dishes.
Cooks, Gluttons & Gourmets (%07-4681 2377; 137a
High St; mains $12-24; hdinner) A warm, casual vibe
and a creative menu make this Mod Oz eatery a
winner. The food is fine dining: a towering plate
of Atlantic salmon and prawns comes served
on handmade pappardelle, and the tea-smoked
kangaroo fillet is tender and delicious.

TOOWOOMBA
The air feels a bit crisper in Toowoomba,
Queenslands largest inland city, which sits on
the edge of the Great Dividing Range and offers breathtaking views of the Lockyer Valley,
700m below. Toowoomba is a renowned garden city and the birthplace of that archetypal
Aussie cake, the lamington. The town centre
is graced with some stately buildings.

Information
Coffee On Line (%4639 4686; 12 Russell St; per hr $6;
h8.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-7pm Sat, 10am-7pm
Sun) Internet access.
QPWS (%4639 4599; 158 Hume St; h8.30am-5pm
Mon-Fri)
Toowoomba Visitor Information Centre (%4639
3797; www.toowoomba.qld.gov.au; 86 James St; h9am5pm)

Sights & Activities

The inspiring and ever-expanding Cobb & Co
Museum (%4639 1971; 27 Lindsay St; adult/child $8/4;
h10am-4pm) is more than a collection of carriages and traps from the horse-drawn age; its
also a showcase for Toowoombas indigenous
and multicultural communities, and includes
a childrens play area. Queens Park (cnr Lindsay
& Campbell Sts) houses the botanic gardens, although some might prefer the beautiful Ju Raku
En Japanese Garden (%4631 2627; West St; h7amdusk), with its 3km of walking trails, waterfalls
and streams.

Sleeping & Eating

Toowoombas accommodation can fill surprisingly fast and its best to book ahead,

especially during Septembers Carnival of

Flowers festival.
A Raceview Motor Inn (%4634 6777; 52 Hursley Rd;
r from $65; as) This motel across the street
from the Clifford Park Racetrack offers solid
rooms some with track views so good you
can see the horses. Families and groups will
appreciate the self-contained units with bunks
sleeping up to six, and the saltwater swimming
pool. One of your better budget bets.
Vacy Hall (%4639 2055; www.vacyhall.com.au; 135
Russell St; r $100-200) Just uphill from the town
centre, this magnificent 1880s mansion offers 12 heritage-style rooms of the highest
standard. The priciest digs come with working fireplaces and huge verandas, making for
a romantic evening. The extensive grounds
are worth a stroll.
Spotted Cow (%4632 4393; cnr Ruthven & Campbell
Sts; mains $12-20; hbreakfast Sat & Sun, lunch & dinner
daily) This Toowoomba institution is the place

to come for upmarket pub grub served in the

cosy dining room of a restored old hotel. Its
famous for its steaks well be awfully impressed if you get through a 700g Kimberley
Red T-bone! Theres a fantastic wine list of
Aussie labels and warm country service.
GPO Caf & Bar (%4659 9240; 1/140 Margaret St; mains
$15-25; hbreakfast & lunch daily, dinner Tue-Sat) Slick
and modern with a stainless-steel bar and airy
dining room, GPOs surrounds reflect the kind
of food served: big on flavour and very inner
city. Corn, crab and chilli chowder comes with
a polenta muffin, or try a gourmet burger. Grab
a coffee in the morning or a brew come dark.

TOOWOOMBA TO ROMA
Check out the rustic buildings, antique
tractors, farm machinery and other period
displays at the historic and excellent 147-plusyear-old Jondaryan Woolshed Complex (%07-4692
2229; www.jondaryanwoolshed.com; Evanslea Rd; adult/child
self-guided $9/5, guided $13/8; h9am-4pm, tours 1pm WedFri, 10.30am & 1pm Sat, Sun & school holidays) located

around 45km west of Toowoomba. There are

daily blacksmithing and shearing demonstrations check the website for times. To really
get into the pioneering spirit, try spending a
night in the shearers quarters (adult/child
$12/6) or cabins (up to 4 people $36). Or you
can pseudo-camp in pre-erected safari tents
($16 per person), which come complete with
mattress. Theres also a country music festival
held here on the third weekend in March that
showcases amateur talent.

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D A R L I N G D O W N S R o m a 353

FRUIT PICKING DOWN IN QUEENSLAND

There is fruit and vegetable picking work aplenty in Stanthorpe, Childers (p365) and Bundaberg
(p365), and during harvests these towns attract backpackers by the bucket load hoping to pick
tomatoes in exchange for a bit of cash and, even better, a second holidaymaker visa.
Heres the scoop. If you have a valid Australian work visa and do three months of harvest work,
you are entitled to another year-long working visa. It sounds great, and if you can stomach the work,
it is great. But before you just show up at a farm, here are a few things you should know.
Farm work can be brutal. Youll be expected to work seven days a week, and get up insanely
early when its still cold and dark 4am anyone? It takes about three days to get used to the
physical aspects of harvest work. Be prepared for a few grumpy, achy first days. Stick with it
though, because after day four your body should begin to adjust to the odd angles its being
placed in and life gets easier. In the meantime, grab some tiger balm to cool soreness, make
sure to drink lots of water, get plenty of sleep and always stretch out your back, arms and legs
when you finish working. (Hint: yoga works well. If you dont know basic moves, ask around at
your hostel where someone surely will.)
Besides being physically challenging, harvest work can take an emotional toll as well. Most
backpackers who choose to do harvest work also choose to stay in atypical hostels known throughout Australia as working backpackers. This special brand of hostel feels a bit more like boarding
school than summer camp, and you can expect management to enforce some stringent rules
when it comes to noise and drinking. Most places only allow you to consume alcohol purchased
on the premises some hostels have on-site bars and if youre caught sneaking booze in, you
just might lose your job.
You can bring as much booze as you like in as long as its already in your belly, Lindsay, the
manager at the Palace Backpackers in Childers, told us. Youre meant to be sleeping at night so
you can work in the morning.
Its probably best to do a bit of research on the town you choose to work in before showing
up. Some towns, like Stanthorpe, are basically one-stoplight villages with little to do as far as
nightlife goes. If youre only coming to work, this is fine, but if youre also looking for a bit of
atmosphere, its probably best to head to Bundy.
In exchange for putting up with these rules, backpackers staying at these places are usually
hooked up with farm work directly through the hostel, which also provides transport to and from
the harvest site each day. This is a major plus, as there is no public transport to the farms. Being
connected to a hostel can also be helpful if you end up having a problem with your farm boss
many backpackers complain about unfair, and even insulting, treatment from the farmers. Be
warned, racism is not extinct on farms, and we were told by a manager at a hostel in Bundy that
some farmers wont hire Asians, while others have a problem with blacks.
We hate to have to even bring the subject up, but to avoid a hostile situation its best to talk
to the hostel management before signing up for work if you have any concerns. Managers may
be strict when it comes to partying, but we found many, especially the crew at the Cell Block
Backpackers in Bundy (see p366), to be very sensitive to backpackers feelings and needs.

A further 167km west on the main street

in Miles is Dogwood Crossing (%07-4627 2455;
h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun), a $1.6
million community project that combines
visual arts, social history and literature into
a museum, gallery, library and multimedia
resource centre. You can bed down in a refurbished, underground bunker at Possum Park
(%07-4627 1651; Leichhardt Hwy; s/d $55/60), where
munitions were stored during WWII as part
of Australias prepared last line of defence
against the advancing Japanese.

ROMA
%07 / pop 5436

An early Queensland settlement, and now the

centre of a sheep and cattle-raising district,
Roma also has some curious small industries.
Theres enough oil in the area to support a
small refinery, but the gas deposits are even
larger and Roma contributes to Brisbanes
supply through a 450km pipeline.
The major landmark is the Big Rig Complex
(%4622 4355; www.thebigrig.com.au; Warrego Hwy; adult/
child $14/9, combined entry & night show $25/15; h9am-5pm,

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

%07 / pop 94,759

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354 F R A S E R C OA S T G y m p i e

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GRANITE BELT WINERIES

The cluster of vineyards scattered around the elevated plateau of the Great Dividing Range
constitutes Queenslands best-known wine district. Moseying from one winery to the next amid
some spectacular scenery is a must for visitors to the area.
Grapes were first grown in the district in the 19th century, but the wine industry really took off
during WWII when Italian immigrants were brought into the countryside to work on farms (at the
time, Australia was at war with Italy). These forced migrs flourished, and there are now some
40 wineries dotted around the New England Hwy between Cottonvale and Wallangarra.
The area doesnt have a particular speciality, but Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon are popular
regional red styles, and Semillon, Verdelho and Chardonnay the best white varieties.
Heading south from Stanthorpe, the following list includes just a few of the more highly
regarded vineyards in the area. All have lovely tasting areas and many run cellar tours.
Lucas Estate (%07-4683 6365; Donges Rd, Severnlea; h10am-5pm)
Mountview (%07-4683 4316; Mt Stirling Rd, Glen Aplin; h9.30am-4.30pm Fri-Sun)
Ballandean Estate (%07-4684 1226; Sundown Rd, Ballandean; h9am-5pm)
Symphony Hill Wines (%07-4684 1388; 2017 Eukey Rd, Ballandean; h10am-5pm)
Pyramids Rd Wines (%07-4684 5151; Pyramids Rd, Wyberba; h10am-4.30pm Sat & Sun)
Bald Mountain Winery (%07-4684 3186; Hickling Lane, Wallangarra; h10am-5pm)

night show 7pm), a museum of oil and gas explora-

tion centred on the old, steam-operated oil rig at

the eastern edge of town. Theres also a nightly
sound and light show. The visitor information
centre (%1800 222 399; Warrego Hwy; h9am-5pm) can
help with accommodation if youre stopping en
route to the Carnarvon Gorge (p375).

which has trippy sand and surf, is a second

Fraser Island jumping-off point.
The northern coast is a land of rum, coral
and sugar cane. Bundaberg, the largest town
in the area, is home to Australias favourite
distillery, which churns out a wicked, intoxicating, hangover-inducing rum by the same
name youll either love it or puke it up!

FRASER COAST

GYMPIE

Australia breaks another world record in the

large and enigmatic category with Fraser Island.
Off the sparsely populated pistachio-coloured
Fraser Coast, youll find the areas tourism ace.
Not only is this one of the most interactive
nature experiences on the planet, but its also
the worlds largest sand island. Backpackers
and flashpackers alike flock to this Queensland
must-see to experience its unique ecosystem,
vibrant colours and almost mystical air. Spend
a night camping under the stars (or perhaps
wishing upon them from a five-star hotel room
window), experience the heart-racing thrill of
driving a 4WD across a shifting tidal sandbar,
or bushwalk to a luminous blue lake.
Mellow Hervey Bay is the major access point
for Fraser Island, and a good whale-watching
spot from July to October. The mammals chill
out in the bay for a while before trekking south
to summer in Antarctica. Rainbow Beach,

If you show up in Noosa without reservations

during school holidays, Gympie, about 80km
to the northwest, just might save your arse in
the sleeping department. The peaceful little
town has a handful of motels and caravan
parks one even has four stars on and just
off the main drag (the Bruce Hwy). These cost
between $60 and $120.
Gympie played an important role in
Queenslands history, thanks to its once rich
gold deposits. Most mining stopped in the
1920s. The principal reminder of Gympies illustrious past is the Gympie Gold Mining
& Historical Museum (%5482 3995; 215 Brisbane Rd;
adult/child/family $8.80/4.40/24; h9am-4.30pm), which
holds a diverse collection of mining equipment and steam engines. Theres also a weeklong Gold Rush Festival every October.
For sleeping, the Gympie Muster Inn (%5482 8666;
21 Wickham St; d $100; a), which has big rooms with

%07 / pop 11,100

F R A S E R C OA S T R a i n b o w B e a c h 355

light dcor and plump settees, along with cable

TV, makes a good overnight resting spot.
Greyhound Australia (%13 14 99) serves Gympie from Noosa ($17, two hours, three daily)
and Hervey Bay ($22, 1 hours, frequent).
All long distance coaches stop at the Gympie Transit Centre. Youll also find buses to
Rainbow Beach ($15.50, 1 hours, three daily
weekdays) depart from here.

intimate dorms with sinks and a handful of

en suite doubles. The family room ($80) sleeps
four and also works for packs of mates. We
dug the cool (and we mean both versions)
lounge with comfy chairs and lots of fans to
stir the air. The festive bar serves cheap meals
($4 spaghetti dinners anyone?), a nightly
happy hour and theme parties.
Frasers on Rainbow YHA (%1800 100 170, 5486 8885;

RAINBOW BEACH

[email protected]; 18 Spectrum St; dm/d from

$20/58; ai) Housed in a converted motel,

%07 / pop 1100

Backed by a spectacular set of multicoloured

sand cliffs (72 shades in all), the small beach
town greets weary travellers like the pot of
gold at the end of a rainbow. Although there
are plans for major development, including
a shopping mall and swanky holiday rentals,
for now Rainbow Beach is really just a single
pandanus treelined main street running into
a long golden beach backed by an aquamarine
sea. If you have a 4WD you can traverse the
entire length of the beach, which is especially
appealing to surfers wanting to ride Double
Island Point 13km to the south.
When we visited a major expansion was
planned for the beachfront. When complete
it will include the renovated Rainbow Beach
Hotel, along with holiday rentals, luxury
apartments, shops and bars. City planners are
counting on the project to boost tourism.

Activities
Without a 4WD, beach options are limited to
the patrolled surf beach at the end of town. For
those not wishing to hire a 4WD (right), Surf &
Sand Safaris (%5486 3131; www.surfandsandsafaris.com
.au; per adult/child $80/40) runs half-day 4WD tours
south down the beach, taking in the lighthouse
at Double Island Point and the Cherry Venture,
a freighter that ran aground here in 1973.
Paragliding above the Carlo Sandblow, a
120m-high dune where the national championships are held every January, is an unforgettable experience. Rainbow Paragliding (%5486
3048; www.paraglidingrainbow.com; around $175) offers
tandem glides for those with the gumption.
The best surfing is at Double Island Point,
13km to the south. Youll need a 4WD to reach
it, but there are good breaks on either side.

Sleeping
Dingos Backpackers Resort (% 1800 111 126,
5486 8200; www.dingosatrainbow.com; 3 Spectrum Ave;
dm/d $20/60; ais) Cheery Dingos offers

this hostel offers roomy dorms with fabulously comfy beds. Locals join travellers at
the sprawling outdoor bar at night, which is
a fun place to hang out and meet people, but
not so loud it stops you from getting a good
nights sleep. Frasers arranges self-catering
backpacker tours to Fraser Island.
Rainbow Sands Holiday Units (%5486 3400; 42-46
Rainbow Beach Rd; d $80-100; as) This low-rise,
palm-fronted complex has neat and appealing
motel rooms with poolside glass doors and
bar fridges, and self-contained units with full
laundries for comfortable longer stays. The
owners are utterly genuine and helpful.
Rainbow Shores Resort (%5486 3999; www.rainbow
shores.com.au; 12 Rainbow Shores Dr; r from $120; as) If
you like a little luxury with your beach, youll
hit the jackpot at this sprawling resort. Accommodation options include standard holiday
units, funky three-bedroom beach houses and
polished split-level villas. On site is a nine-hole
golf course, barbecues and childrens playground on the edge of the bush.

Getting There & Around

Greyhound Australia (%13 14 99) and Premier Motor
Service (%13 34 10) have daily services from
Brisbane ($38, 5 hours).
With a 4WD its possible to drive south
along the beach to Noosa or head for Fraser
Island. Aussie Adventure 4WD Hire (%5486 3599;
4/54 Rainbow Beach Rd) offers 4WD vehicle hire
from $125 to $200 per day. For ferry details,
see p365.

MARYBOROUGH
%07 / pop 20,521

The birthplace of Mary Poppins author PL

Travers, the Maryborough of the 21st century
looks much as it did when Travers was alive.
It is one of Queenslands oldest cities and
also promotes itself as the start of Australias happiest region. The small country town
is certainly charming; its streets brim with

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

If you would rather not drive yourself, Grape Escape (%1300 36 1150; www.grapeescape.com.au; per
person $60) operates tours to five wineries, including lunch, from Stanthorpe.

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

356 F R A S E R C OA S T M a r y b o r o u g h

lonelyplanet.com

FOLLOWING THE MARY POPPINS TRAIL

Have you ever dreamed of paying homage to the worlds first super nanny? If so, fulfil your Mary
Poppins fantasy in Maryborough, the birthplace of the flying babysitters creator PL Travers in
1899.
Start your journey at the Mary Poppins statue on Richmond Street, where you can have your
photo taken outside the house where Travers was born. Next up is Town Hall Green (cnr Kent
& Adelaide Sts) where 10 Mary Poppins characters are etched on brick plinths. Bring a pencil and
paper to take your own etching.
Finally, if your name happens to be Mary, Maryborough has a gimmick for that, too. Inside
the Maryborough visitor information centre (below), youll find the home base of the Proud
Marys, an association were not kidding here for women all over the world whose name is
Mary or some derivative of it (Mary Catherines, Marias and Marguerites are all welcome). The
visitors centre has displays on notable Marys throughout history and (just in case you havent
had enough) murals featuring characters from the Mary Poppins series.

lonelyplanet.com

up in and get to know. Bistro food is served

inside and out.
Maryboroughs train station, Maryborough
West, is 7km west of town on Lennox Street.
Here youll find trains to Brisbane ($60, five
hours, at least four weekly). The main bus
station for long haul trips north or south is
next to the train station, but a shuttle connects
both stations with town.
If you just need to get to Hervey Bay ($7,
1 hours), catch one of the frequently departing Wide Bay Transit (%4121 3719) buses from
outside City Hall on Kent Street.

HERVEY BAY

exquisitely maintained timber Queenslanders,

which are an attraction unto themselves.
The excellent Maryborough visitor information
centre (%4121 4111; City Hall, Kent St; h9am-5pm MonFri) is staffed by knowledgeable locals.
Junk browsers will love the National Trust
classified Brennan & Geraghtys Store (%4121 2250;
64 Lennox St; adult/child/family $5/3.50/12; h10am-3pm),
which traded for 100 years before becoming
a museum. Its filled with tins, bottles and
packets, including early Vegemite jars and
curry powder from the 1890s, all crammed
onto the ceiling-high shelves.
The Portside Centre & Heritage Museum (%4190
5730; www.maryborough.qld.gov.au; 101 Wharf St; h10am4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat & Sun) in the historic port

area has interactive displays on Maryboroughs history. The Bond Store Museum here
focuses entirely on the towns lucrative role in
the 19th-century booze trade quite different
from your usual museum fare.
Try to visit Maryborough on the last weekend of the month when the town throws a
weekend long party. The action begins Friday
night with Portside Moonlight Movies (admission
free). An outdoor screen is set up in a park on
the shore of the Mary River near the port.
Films are screened just after dark, but entertainment starts at 5pm. Arrive early to
stake your claim on the grass bring a blanket and an esky for drinks and snacks. Each
month has a different theme. September is
Mary Poppins month; April is dedicated to
military flicks.
On Saturday evening you can partake in
a progressive three-course dinner at historic
restaurants and private homes, where you will
learn the stories of Maryboroughs ghostly

past, in between touring the towns haunted

spots. Ghostly Tour and Tales of the Port of Maryborough (%4121 4111; tour & dinner $65) offers the fivehour tours on the last Saturday of each month.
Tours depart from the visitor information
centre in City Hall at dusk. The lore is pretty
meaty and includes tales of love, betrayal, tragedy, murder and, of course, voices speaking
from the grave. Bookings are essential.
Before heading out on Sunday, youll
want to do Sunday in the Park, which includes
a brass band concert, food vendors and river
cruises on the Mary Ann, a full-sized replica
of Queenslands first steam locomotive built
in Maryborough in 1873. It takes passengers
along the river through Queens Park and the
Mary River Parklands. Kids will dig the many
miniature steam engines that run on a circuit
around Queens Park. The event runs from
9am to 1pm.
Ambling through the 1920s-influenced
corridors of the lovely Royal Centrepoint Motel
(%4121 2241; 326 Kent St; r $65; a) makes you
feel like youve stepped into Fred Astaires
shoes. The style is quite reflected in the standard (though spotless) rooms, but perks like
video players and friendly hosts make up the
slack.
The Federal Hotel (%4122 4711; 270 Kent St; mains
$8-15; hlunch & dinner) is the kind of impeccably
restored old Queenslanders Maryborough is
famous for. The country pub is perfect for a
quiet afternoon drink away from the bright
Australian sun. The interior is surprisingly
eccentric and modern with galvanised steel,
painted cow skulls and pop art. Still, despite
the modern touches, it still feels like the kind
of rich, old-style country pub you want to curl

As the main jumping-off point for Fraser Island, Hervey Bay emits an energetic, youthful vibe. Its usually packed with backpackers
starting or returning from self-drive safaris
or day trips in trucks that look equipped to
traverse the moon. At night the bars and restaurants are filled with enthusiastic 20- and
30-somethings comparing war stories about
dingo spotting and sand traps while simultaneously dipping sushi into soy sauce and
proudly scratching angry red mozzie bites
(proof theyve really done the island).
Hervey Bay is more than just another entrance to Fraser Island, however. Set on an
idyllic 10km stretch of golden sand, the town
is populated not only by affable locals, but
also by magnificent humpback whales. This
spectacular sight, complemented by sublime
swimming, fishing and other water-related
activities, lures Queensland families by the
campervan-load. It seems many have been
coming for so long theyve not bothered to
leave and the town has a healthy percentage of
retirees among its permanent population.

Sights & Activities

Run by the Korrawinga Aboriginal Community, the Scrub Hill Community Farm (%4124 6908;
Scrub Hill Rd; tours per adult/child/family $16.50/5.50/33; hby
appointment) produces organic vegetables, tea tree

oil and excellent artworks, including didgeridoos. The guided tours (call ahead to arrange)
demonstrate how the farm operates.

Tours
FRASER ISLAND

Hervey Bay offers plenty of self-drive and

guided backpacker tours to Fraser Island.
Below are a few recommended options:
A1 Fraser Roving (%1800 989 811, 4125 6386; www
.fraserroving.com.au; trips $135) Organises backpackers
into groups for self-drive safaris to Fraser Island. The price
includes the hire of a 4WD vehicle for two nights, an intro
lecture on driving it, camping equipment and park permits.
Cheaper stand-by rates are usually available.
Colonial Log Cabins (%1800 818 280, 4125 1844;
www.coloniallogcabins.com; trips from $279) Runs
overnight guided safaris to Fraser Island. The price includes
two nights in the dorms at its Hervey Bay hostel and one
nights dorm accommodation on Fraser Island. Colonials
travel company also offers a two-night safari for $379. Ask
about stand-by rates.
Koala Adventures (%1800 354 535, 4125 3601;
www.koalaadventures.com; 408 the Esplanade, Torquay;
trips from $135) At Koala Backpackers, it offers the same
style self-drive safari package as A1 Fraser Roving and the
same stand-by rates.
WHALE WATCHING

Hervey Bay Tourism & Development Bureau

Between mid-July and late October, whalewatching tours operate out of Hervey Bay
daily weather permitting. Sightings are guaranteed from 1 August to 1 November, when
you get a free subsequent trip if the whales
dont show.
The boats cruise from the Urangan Harbour
out to Platypus Bay and then zip around from
pod to pod to find the most active whales. Most
vessels offer half-day (four-hour) tours that include lunch and cost from $100 for adults and
$70 for children. The larger boats run six-hour
day trips and the amenities are better, but they
take around two hours to reach Platypus Bay.
Among the many available tours:
MV Tasman Venture (%1800 620 322; www.tasman

(%1800 811 728; www.herveybaytourism.com.au; cnr

Urraween & Maryborough Rds; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri,
10am-4pm Sat & Sun)
Post office (%4125 1101; 414 The Esplanade,
Torquay)

venture.com.au; h8.30am & 1.30pm) Takes a maximum

of 80 passengers and has underwater microphones and
viewing windows.
Spirit of Hervey Bay (%1800 642 544, 4125 5131;
www.spiritofherveybay.com; h8.30am & 1.30pm)

Information
There is only one official tourist office, which
is a fair way from the centre, but numerous
booking agents in town also give out tourist
information.
Adventure Travel Centre (%1800 554 400, 4125
9288; 410 the Esplanade, Torquay; per hr $4; h7am10pm) Internet access and booking agent.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

%07 / pop 52,000

F R A S E R C OA S T H e r ve y B a y 357

358 F R A S E R C OA S T H e r ve y B a y

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F R A S E R C OA S T H e r ve y B a y 359

0
0

HERVEY BAY

Margaret St

St

rde

Uran

r St

gan

St

Dr

13

Boa

t H
ar

To Platypus Bay (45km)

2
Jetty
6
St
Urangan
Marina

r D
r

Orchid Ave

McLiver St

Cre

ek

Aim

Main St

Nissen St

Mille

bou

Ga

Boat Harbour Dr

Exeter St

El

Hervey Bay
Senior
College

Hervey
Bay
Hospital

Urraween Rd

ee D

INFORMATION
Kawungan
Adventure Travel Centre........1 E2
Post Office.............................2 E2

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

SilverStar Fishing Charters
(Meeting Point)................(see 3)
Whale Watching Boats to
Platypus Bay......................3 H2

A large vessel with underwater viewing rooms; takes a

maximum of 150 passengers.
FISHING

The fishing in and around Hervey Bay is excellent and numerous vessels operate fishing
safaris.
SilverStar Fishing Charters (%4128 9778; silverstar
[email protected]; full day per person around $150)
Offers calm-water fishing trips that run for around eight
hours. These also leave from Urangan Harbour.

Sleeping
Try strolling down the Esplanade if the following places are full (or dont look appealing)
its chock full of midrange motels.
BUDGET

Most Hervey Bay hostels do pick-ups from

the main bus stop, and organise trips to Fraser
Island. This is just a sample of backpackers in
Hervey Bay.
oWoolshed Backpackers (%4124 0677;
www.woolshedbackpackers.com; 181 Torquay Rd, Scarness;
dm $18-20, cabins $44-75; a) Clean, simple, quiet

and private, Woolshed is a great choice if

SLEEPING
A1 Fraser Roving......................4 E2
Bay Bed & Breakfast.................5 G1
Colonial Log Cabins.................6 H2
Grange Resort..........................7 G1
Koala Backpackers Resort &
Reef Motel......................(see 1)
La Mer Beachfront
Apartments.........................8 D2
Pialba Beachfront Tourist Park...9 B1

you want to escape the hostel party circuit. It

doesnt have a bar, although the helpful owners will point you in the right direction. The
rustic farm-style cabins have tiled floors and
the wooden dorms are full of character and
kitted with outback touches like old lanterns,
Aboriginal photographs and miscellaneous
horse and leather goods. The 12 cabins are
on woodsy property and you can grab DVDs
from the library to watch on your in-room
player. The four-bed luxury dorms are well
worth the extra $2 as they come with air-con,
TV, DVD player and non-bunked twins!
Koala Backpackers Resort & Reef Motel (%1800
354 535, 4125 3601; www.koalaadventures.com; 408 the Esplanade, Torquay; dm $20, d $55-70; ais) Choose

from backpacker doubles and dorms (both

with shared bathrooms) in character-packed
old Queenslanders by the pool or quieter en
suite motel rooms that provide the privacy
and amenities of a hotel without sacrificing
the backpacker vibe. The sprawling complex covers almost a hectare and resembles
a resort for budget travellers. The pool area
is party central, with tonnes of atmosphere.
Koala Adventures, which does bookings for

Torquay Beachfront Tourist

Park..................................10 E1
Woolshed
Backpackers......................11 D2

EATING
Black Dog Cafe....................12 D2
Cafe Balaena.......................13 H2
Heidi's Bistro........................(see 4)
Pier Restaurant.....................14 F1

DRINKING
Hollihans...............................15 D2
Morocco's..............................16 E2

To Fraser Magic 4WD Hire (1km);

Airport (4km); River Heads &
Fraser Island Ferries (10km)

TRANSPORT
Aussie Trax............................17 A2
Bay 4WD Hire........................18 A2
Hervey Bay Coach Terminal...19 B2
Ozi Roving 4X4......................20 E1
Urangan Harbour...................(see 3)

adventure activities as well as Fraser Island

tours, is also here.
A1 Fraser Roving (%1800 989 811, 4125 6386; www
.fraserroving.com.au; 412 the Esplanade, Torquay; dm/d $20/58;
is) Fraser Roving has earned its place on

the backpacker grapevine thanks to utterly

genuine owners, spartan but spotless dorms,
an atmospheric bar and a location right in
the heart of town. The place has a party vibe,
but if youre after a quiet night theres plenty
of space to buffer the noise. Check out the
attached Heidis Bistro (mains $5 to $13),
which has cheap backpacker grub and does an
all-you-can-eat Mexican night ($10) twice a
week. There are good wheelchair facilities.
Colonial Log Cabins (%1800 818 280, 4125 1844;
www.coloniallogcabins.com; 820 Boat Harbour Dr, Urangan;
dm $25, d & tw from $48, cabins from $80; ai) Dorms,

cabins and villas at this excellent YHA place

are scattered throughout a tranquil pocket of
bush in the burbs, complete with entertaining
possums and parrots. The four-bed, single-sex
dorms are spotless, and friends can share a
room without having to share a bed. Theres
a good atmosphere, thanks to a convivial bar
and large swimming area.

Great Sandy
Strait

MIDRANGE & TOP END

Bay Bed & Breakfast (%4125 6919; www.hervey.com

.au/baybedandbreakfast; 180 Cypress St, Urangan; s $70, d
$110-125; s) Guests at this modern and com-

fortable B&B occupy cool rooms in a secluded

annex out the back (most share bathrooms).
Theres also a stylish share lounge, couches to
sink into, a guests fridge, tea and coffee facilities and a lagoon-style saltwater pool outside.
If you dont like kids, this is the spot for you
children under 16 are not welcome.
La Mer Beachfront Apartments (%1800 100 181,
4128 3494; www.lamer.com.au; 396 the Esplanade, Torquay;
r per night/week $125/600; as) Plenty of holiday

units use the word luxury with creative licence, but La Mer comes up with the goods.
Behind the generic faade are fresh and modern apartments with open plans and spunky
new mod cons including full laundries, DVDs,
cable TV and even coffee plungers!
Grange Resort (%4125 2002; www.thegrange-hervey
bay.com.au; cnr Elizabeth & Shell Sts, Urangan; r $170-250;
as) Reminiscent of a stylish desert resort,

this newish complex is home to fancy split-level

condos filled with lifes little luxuries. Glossy
kitchens and bathrooms, plump couches,

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

St

57

Boat Harbour Dr

Urraween

St

Lido Pd
e

Bruce St

Tavistock St

19

Bay Dr

t
an S

Daym

sen

Torquay

Torquay Tc
e

Dayman St

Botanic
Gardens

beth

Creek

Urangan

Han

Totness St

an

St

Eliza

Too

ro

Tru

Alexander St

16

Fraser St

St

an S

Oce

Ann St

Queens Rd

11

East St

Bideford St

Zephyr St

Scarness

Denman Camp Rd

Boat Harbour Dr
To Hervey Bay Tourism &
Development Bureau (1.5km);
Fa
Scrub Hill Community Farm (2km);
irw Maryborough (34km)
ay
Dr
57

Stephenson St

Hunter St

18 17

Freshw ater

Scarborough St
Torquay Rd

20

12 15

ade

ve

Islander Rd

Esplan

gS

er A

Taylor St

Pialba

Old Maryborough Rd

Main St

St

Charles St

Beach Rd

Newhaven St

Winchelsea St

Romney St

St

Kin

Shell St
7

Bucc ane

Tooth St

Dove St

ce

10

on

Ali

am St

Cunningh

Robert St

Hervey Bay
Golf &
Country Club

Wa
ts

14

e
Esplanad
5
St
Cypress

illia

Shelley
Beach

Hythe St

de
na
pla g St
n
Lo

Es

Hervey Bay

Urangan
Pier

ul S
t

de

Pulg

lana

To Point Vernon
(1.5km)

Esp

Martin St

1 km
0.5 miles

360 F R A S E R C OA S T F r a s e r I s l a n d

spacious boudoirs and commodious decks

are the norm. Check online for discounts and
packages. The Grange can arrange upmarket
(including four-day walking) tours to Fraser Island ie you wont be on the backpacker bus.
CAMPING

Theres nothing like camping right on the

beach. Check out one of Hervey Bays two
great sites; both offer very similar facilities.
Pialba Beachfront Tourist Park (%4128 1399; www
.beachfronttouristparks.com.au/parks/pialba.php; unpowered/
powered sites from $17/22)
Torquay Beachfront Tourist Park (%4125 1578; www
.beachfronttouristparks.com.au/parks/torquay.php; unpowered/
powered sites from $17/22).

0
0

FRASER ISLAND

15 km
8 miles

Sandy Cape

Sandy Cape
Lighthouse

Lake
Marong

Lake
Wanhar

Panama

Getting There & Away

Lake Gnarann
Lake
Bowarrady

Bimjella Hill
(174m)

Blackfellow
Pt
Big
Woody
Island

Indian
Head

Corroboree
Beach

Dundubara
Bowarrady
(244m)
Frasers at
Cathedral Beach
The Pinnacles

Maheno
Maheno
Beach
Fraser Island
Happy Valley
Wilderness Retreat
Leading
Yidney Rocks
Kingfisher Bay
Hill
Valley of
Resort
Poyungan
(184m)
the Giants
River
Valley
Heads
Lake McKenzie Poyungan Rocks
Basin
Wanggoolba
Lake
Lake Wabby
Creek
Ungowa
Central Station
Eurong Beach Resort
Lake Jennings
Eurong
Lake Birrabeen
Fraser Island Beachhouses
Lake Benaroon
Boomanjin
Lake Boomanjin
Hill (211m)
Dilli Village Recreation Camp
Yankee
Jack Lake
Maaroom
Dilli Village
SOUTH
Figtree
Lake
PACIFIC
Yidney

Lake
Garawongera Scrub

Tuan

OCEAN

To Maryborough
(24km); Gympie
(80km)

The
Bluff
(64m)

Hook Pt

Inskip Pt

World Heritagelisted sand bar measuring

120km by 15km and created by 800,000 years
of longshore drift. Seen from the coast this
beautiful enigma appears too lush and green
to be the worlds biggest sand island, but the
islands diverse ecology is one of the many
wonders of the place. Rainforests and some
40 freshwater lakes dot the landscape, and

History
Fraser Island takes its European name from
James and Eliza Fraser. The captain of the
Stirling Castle and his wife were shipwrecked
on the northwest coast in 1836. He died here,
and she survived with help from the local
Aboriginal people.

QUEENSLAND

Lake Allom

Moon Pt

Hervey
Bay

ait

The local Aboriginal people call Fraser Island

KGari, which is very fitting as it roughly
translates into paradise. It is said that all
the sand from the eastern coast of Australia
eventually ends up at Fraser Island, a gigantic

Yathon Cliffs

Arch Cliff

Str

FRASER ISLAND

Champagne
Pools
Great Sandy
National Park

Triangle
Cliff

Coongul Pt

Waddy
Pt
Middle
Rocks

Orchid
Beach

Wathumba

dy

Harbour Dr, Pialba)

Bay 4WD Hire (%1800 687 178, 4128 2981; www
.bay4wd.com.au; 52-54 Boat Harbour Dr, Pialba)
Fraser Magic 4WD Hire (%4125 6612; www.fraser
-magic-4wdhire.com.au; Lot 11, Kruger Court, Urangan)
Ozi Roving 4X4 (%4125 6355; 10 Fraser St, Torquay)

Platypus
Bay

No swimming: sharks
and undertow. Also
applies to the eastern
side of Fraser Island

Hervey
Bay

Marloo
Bay

Lake Carree
Lake Minker

San

Most places to stay will pick you up from the

bus station if you call ahead.
Bay Bicycle Hire (%0417-644 814; per half/full day
$15/20) rents out bicycles from various outlets
along the Esplanade, or can deliver bikes to
your door.
Hervey Bay is the most popular spot to hire
a 4WD for Fraser Island and there is plenty of
choice. Vehicles start at around $130 per day
for a smaller Suzuki Sierra; a Land Cruiser
usually costs around $190 per day.
Aussie Trax (%1800 062 275, 4124 4433; 56 Boat

The western beach is

dangerous for driving
due to soft sand
and swampy areas

Manann
Beach

ee

Getting Around

Rooney Pt

Cr

Hervey Bay is on a main bus route between

Brisbane ($50, 5 hours) and Rockhampton
($65, 5 hours). Wide Bay Transit (%4121 3719)
has hourly services every weekday, with five
on Saturday and three on Sunday, running
between Maryborough and Hervey Bay marina ($6, 1 hours). Buses depart from the
Hervey Bay Coach Terminal (%4124 4000; Central Ave,
Pialba) on Hervey Bays west side. Hostels run
shuttles to the bus terminal.
The Queensland Rail (%1300 131 722) Sunlander ($65, five hours) and Tilt Train ($65,
3 hours) connect Brisbane with Maryborough West, where a Trainlink bus ($6) transfers you to Hervey Bay.

dunes (known locally as sandblows) tower

up to 224m high. Off-shore, whales, dolphins,
sharks and turtles can often be seen from these
high points.
Theres a sci-fi other-worldliness to Fraser Island, as 4WDs and buses with towering
wheel bases and fat, chunky tyres all pull in
to refuel against an idyllic beach backdrop of
white sand and waving palm trees.
Coming here, there are certain essentials to
know: 4WDs are mandatory as all roads are
sand tracks. Your vehicle will need to have
decently high clearance and you will need to
cross over to the island via a ferry from either
Hervey Bay or Rainbow Beach.
Other things to be aware of: the lakes are
lovely to swim in, but the ocean is lethal
undertows and man-eating sharks make it a
definite no-go. And feeding the islands dingoes has made them increasingly aggressive in
recent years (see the boxed text, p364).
Yet none of this detracts from the enjoyment of a location unlike any other on earth.
If the dunes, the forests, the lakes, the birds
and the mammals arent enough, gaze up at
the night sky. With little light behind you, the
Milky Way blazes brightly.
Among the ways to see Fraser Island (your
own 4WD vehicle, a group self-drive safari
or a guided tour), we would ask you consider
the eco impact before deciding. Even though
joining a guided tour can mean sharing your
Fraser experience with up to 40-odd strangers,
tours also have a lower impact on the environment. The fewer vehicles on the island, the
lower the chance its fragile ecosystem gets
screwed up. Self-drive safaris are a good middle ground (these put groups together into
one vehicle and thus lessen the number of
jeeps on the sand), but you need to seriously
consider your 4WD skills (or those in your
proposed group) before signing up. Driving
on Fraser can be hair-raising to say the least:
one minute youll be cruising along when suddenly the earth turns to water and you start to
spin out. See the boxed text (p362) for more
details on these options.

CORAL
SEA

Great

Hervey Bay has lively places to eat and drink.

There is even a proper nightclub!
Cafe Balaena (%4125 4799; Shop 7, Terminal Bldg,
Buccaneer Ave, Urangan; mains $10-25) Start your day
at this wonderful, laid-back caf in a breezy
locale overlooking the marina. The breakfast
menu goes beyond the normal bacon and
egg deals with choices like fresh croissants
topped with avocado, salmon and cheese. The
freshly squeezed fruit juices are some of the
best we tasted. At lunch and dinner the menu
is equally trendy, boasting mountainous hot
sandwiches and salads, with a good dose of
fresh seafood. To find Caf Balaena look for
the Hervey Bay Marina. The restaurant is to
the left as you walk towards the marina.
Black Dog Cafe (%4124 3177; 381 the Esplanade, Torquay;
mains $10-20; hlunch & dinner) Healthy Japaneseinfluenced cuisine, including well-priced
sushi (8-piece rolls $6), is the emphasis at
one of Hervey Bays funkiest eateries. The
menu also does a good variety of East-meetsWest dishes such as fresh burgers, curries,
club sambos and seafood salads. The young
pups menu is a plus for families.
Pier Restaurant (%4128 9695; 573 the Esplanade,
Urangan; mains $20-40; hdinner) Arguably Hervey
Bays finest seafood restaurant, the Pier serves
exquisite marine cuisine such as mignon
scallop kebabs, or whole baked fish with ginger and peppercorn sauce. Theres also a good
dose of non-fishy dishes and the surrounds
are classy.
Moroccos (%4125 3601; 408 the Esplanade, Torquay)
Run by Koala Backpackers, Moroccos is
Hervey Bays only true nightclub. It is usually crowded with young, hard-drinking,

looking-to-hook-up backpackers. There is a

strict ID policy (no-one under 18), but once
you get past the giant bouncers, youll be inside a disco-like noise-proof dance hall with
multicoloured lights and a giant flat screen
TV playing MTVs latest hits.
Hollihans (%4194 0099; 382 the Esplanade, Scarness)
This kitschy Irish pub is insanely popular with
the backpacking crowd. Inside the place is filled
with the usual Irish maps and trinkets; the pavement seats are the ones to score come dark.

F R A S E R C OA S T F r a s e r I s l a n d 361

lonelyplanet.com

Eli

QUEENSLAND

Eating & Drinking

l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com
Book accommodation online

362 F R A S E R C OA S T F r a s e r I s l a n d

lonelyplanet.com

NOTES FROM A SMALL ISLAND: EXPLORING FRASER

The surfeit of sand and the lack of paved roads mean that only 4WD vehicles can negotiate the
island. For most travellers, transport comes down to three options: organised tours, self-drive
tours and 4WD hire.

Organised Tours
Package tours leave from Hervey Bay, Rainbow Beach and Noosa and typically cover rainforests,
Eli Creek, Lakes McKenzie and Wabby, the coloured Pinnacles and the Maheno shipwreck.
Advantages: Tours can be booked at the last minute, you dont have to cook, driveor think,
and you can jump on at Hervey Bay and return to Rainbow Beach or Noosa, or vice versa. You
gain a much greater understanding of the islands ecology from the commentary.
Disadvantages: During peak season you could share the experience with 40 others.
Weve listed a few companies below (for options based in Hervey Bay, see p357):
Footprints on Fraser

(%1300 765 636; www.footprintsonfraser.com.au; 4-/5-day walk $1250/1670)

Get up close and personal with Frasers unique environment when you walk the island with
Footprints. The company runs four- and five-day guided walking tours that take in lake, dune
and rainforest hikes.
Fraser Experience

(%1800 689 819, 07-4124 4244; www.safari4wdhire.com.au; 2-day tours $245) Small

groups and more freedom regarding the itinerary.

QUEENSLAND

multiday adventure tours targeted at 18 to 35 year olds.

Sand Island Safaris

(%1800 246 911; 3-day tours from $360) Well-regarded small group tours.

Self-drive Backpacker Tours

Hostels in Hervey Bay organise guests into groups of about nine per vehicle to drive their own
convoy to the island and camp out, usually for two nights and three days. Some instruction
about driving 4WD vehicles is given and drivers are nominated. Unfortunately, there have been
complaints about dodgy vehicle-damage claims upon return, which can be quite costly. Booking
through a local hostel reduces the risk of this. Either way, check your vehicle beforehand.
Advantages: Cheap! You get to choose when and how you see everything and if your group
is good, even getting rained on is fun.
Disadvantages: If your group doesnt get along its a loooong three days. Inexperienced drivers
get bogged in sand all the time, although if its not serious this can be part of the fun.
Rates hover around $165 and exclude food and fuel (usually $40 to $60).
See Tours, p357, for operators.

As European settlers awoke to the value of

Frasers timber, that same tribe of Aborigines
was unfortunately displaced (although not
without a fight) and tracts of rainforest were
cleared in the search for turpentine (satiny),
a waterproof wood prized by shipbuilders.
The island was also mined for its mineral
sand for many years.
In the late 20th century the focus shifted
from exploitation towards protection. Sand
mining ceased in 1975 and logging stopped
in 1991, after the island was brought under
the auspices of the QPWS, as part of the
Great Sandy National Park. In 1993 native
title was recognised and the island was listed
as a World Heritage area.

Information
General supplies and expensive fuel are available from stores at Cathedral Beach, Eurong,
Kingfisher Bay, Happy Valley and Orchid
Beach.
There are several ranger stations on the
island:
Central Station (%07-4127 9191; h10am-noon)
Dundubara (%07-4127 9138; h8-9am)
Eurong (%07-4127 9128; h10.30am-3.30pm Mon,
8am-3.30pm Tue-Thu, 8am-1pm Fri)
Waddy Point (%07-4127 9190; h7am-8am &
4-4.30pm)

There are tow truck services at Eurong (%

07-4127 9188) and Yidney Rocks (%07-4127 9167).
PERMITS

Youll need a permit for vehicles ($34) and

camping (per person/family $4/16), and these
must be purchased before you arrive; contact
QPWS (%13 13 04; www.epa.qld.gov.au) or purchase
them from the following:
Bundaberg QPWS Office (%07-4131 1600; 46 Quay
St, Bundaberg)

4WD Vehicle Hire

Naturally Queensland (Map pp300-1; %07-3227

Hire companies lease out 4WD vehicles in Hervey Bay, Rainbow Beach and on the island itself. A
driving instruction video will usually be shown, but when planning your trip, reckon on covering
20km an hour on the inland tracks and 40km an hour on the eastern beach. Most companies
will help arrange ferries and permits and hire camping gear.
Advantages: Complete freedom to roam the island, and escape the crowds.
Disadvantages: Having to drive in conditions where even experienced drivers often have
difficulties, and being responsible for any vehicle damage.
Rates for multiday rentals start at around $125 per day for a Suzuki Sierra and go up to $185
for a Landcruiser. If you want to hire on the island, Kingfisher Bay 4WD Hire (%07-4120 3366)
has a medium-sized fleet, from Suzuki Sierras to Landcruisers; all at $195 per day. Also see Getting
Around in the Hervey Bay (p360) and Rainbow Beach (p355) sections for rental companies.

7111; 160 Ann St, Brisbane; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri)

QPWS Great Sandy Information Centre (%075449 7792; 240 Moorindil St, Tewantin; h7am-4pm)
Just inland from Noosa Heads.
Rainbow Beach QPWS Office (%07-5486 3160;
Rainbow Beach Rd; h7am-4pm)
River Heads QPWS kiosk (%4125 8485; h6.1511.15am & 2-3.30pm) One of the ferry departure points;
see p365.

Permits arent required for the private camping grounds or resorts.

F R A S E R C OA S T F r a s e r I s l a n d 363

Sights & Activities

If youre doing a self-drive safari or renting a
4WD, the following route will give you a good
feel for the islands varied ecosystems.
From Frasers southern tip, vehicles should
use the high-tide access track between Hook
Point and Dilli Village, rather than the beach.
From here on, the eastern beach is the main
thoroughfare. A short drive north of Dilli
will take you to the resort at Eurong, the start
of the inland track across to Central Station
and Wanggoolba Creek (for the ferry to River
Heads).
In the middle of the island is Central Station, the starting point for numerous walking
trails. Signposted tracks head to the beautiful Lakes McKenzie, Jennings, Birrabeen and
Boomanjin. Like many of Frasers lakes, these
are perched, formed by water accumulating
on top of a thin impermeable layer of decaying twigs and leaves. They also join Icelands
famous Blue Lagoon as open-air beauty salons, where you can exfoliate your skin with
the mineral sand and soften your hair in the
clear water. Lake McKenzie is possibly the
most spectacular, but Lake Birrabeen is also
amazing, and usually less crowded.
About 4km north of Eurong along the
beach is a signposted walking trail to Lake
Wabby. An easier route is from the lookout
on the inland track. Wabby is surrounded
on three sides by eucalypt forest, while the
fourth side is a massive sandblow, which is
encroaching on the lake at a rate of about
3m a year. The lake is deceptively shallow
and diving is dangerous in the last decade
several people have been paralysed by doing
so. You can often find turtles and huge catfish under the trees in the eastern corner of
the lake.
Driving north along the beach youll
pass Happy Valley, with many places to stay,
and Eli Creek. After rainfall this becomes a
fast-moving, crystal-clear waterway that will
carry you effortlessly downstream. About 2km
from Eli Creek is the wreck of the Maheno, a
passenger liner that was blown ashore by a
cyclone in 1935 while being towed to a Japanese scrap yard.
Roughly 5km north of the Maheno youll
find the Pinnacles (a section of coloured sand
cliffs) and, about 10km beyond, Dundubara.
Then theres a 20km stretch of beach before
you come to the rock outcrop of Indian Head,
the best vantage point on the island. Sharks,

QUEENSLAND

(%1800 063 933, 07-4125 3933; day tour adult/child from $155/100, 2-day tours
from $245/185) Range of tours available, from small groups to coaches.
Fraser Venture (%1800 249 122, 07-4125 4444, www.safari4wdhire.com.au; day tour adult/child from
$105/55, 2-/3-day tours from $265/$355) Lively drivers and sizable coaches on strict schedules.
Kingfisher Bay Tours (%1800 072 555, 07-4120 3353; www.kingfisherbay.com; Fraser Island; day tours
adult/child $165/105, 2-/3-day adventure tours from $275/355) Ranger-guided day tours in 4WDs, plus

Fraser Island Company

lonelyplanet.com

364 F R A S E R C OA S T F r a s e r I s l a n d

manta rays, dolphins and (during the migration season) whales can often be spotted from
the top of the headland.
From Indian Head the trail branches inland, passing the Champagne Pools, the only safe
spot on the island for saltwater swimming.
This inland road leads back to Waddy Point
and Orchid Beach, the last settlement on the
island. Many tracks north of this are closed
for environmental protection. The 30km of
beach up to Sandy Cape, the northern tip, with
its lighthouse, is off-limits to hire vehicles.
The beach from Sandy Cape to Rooney Point
is closed to all vehicles, as is the road from
Orchid Beach to Platypus Bay.
Fraser Island has a handful of places where
you can spend the night, although camping
under the stars (despite the annoying number
of mosquitoes and flies) is a highlight of most
trips. If you are camping or self-catering come
well prepared food-wise, as supplies are limited and costly.

tropical foliage. Theres a rustic edge to them

but theyre a good, comfortable, midrange
option. On site is a restaurant (mains $12 to
$24) and shop.
Fraser Island Beachhouses (%1800 626 230, 07-4127

sites $18/28, cabins from $110) is a spacious private

9205; www.fraserislandbeachhouses.com.au; Eurong Second

Valley; d per 2 nights $250-350, f per 2 nights from $420; s)

Vehicle ferries connect Fraser Island with

River Heads, about 10km south of Hervey
Bay, or Inskip Point, near Rainbow Beach.
Fraser Venture (%07-4125 4444; pedestrian/vehicle
& 4 passengers return $22/130) makes the 30-minute
crossing from River Heads to Wanggoolba
Creek on the western coast of Fraser Island.
It departs daily from River Heads at 9am,
10.15am and 3.30pm, returning at 9.30am,
2.30pm and 4pm. On Saturday theres an additional 7am service, which returns at 7.30am.
This company also operates the Fraser Dawn
Vehicular Ferry (pedestrian/vehicle & 4 passengers return
$22/130) from the Urangan marina in Hervey
Bay to Moon Point on Fraser Island.
Kingfisher Vehicular Ferry (%1800 072 555, 07-4120
3333; pedestrian/vehicle & 4 passengers return $22/130) does
the 45-minute crossing from River Heads to
Kingfisher Bay, departing at 7.15am, 11am
and 2.30pm, and returning at 8.30am, 1.30pm
and 4pm.
Coming from Rainbow Beach, Rainbow Venture (%07-5486 3227) and Manta Ray (%0418-872
599) both make the 15-minute crossing from
Inskip Point to Hook Point on Fraser Island
continuously from about 7am to 5.30pm.
Both cost $75 return for a vehicle and four
passengers.
Air Fraser Island (%07-4125 3600) flies out of
Hervey Bay airport and lands on the islands
eastern beach.

This complex contains sunny, self-contained

units kitted out with polished wood, cable
TVs and ocean views. Rates start with studios
and climb to $600 (per two nights) for sixbed beachfront houses. Low season attracts
a two-night minimum stay and high season
five nights.
Kingfisher Bay Resort (%1800 072 555, 07-4120
3333; www.kingfisherbay.com; Kingfisher Bay; r from $300;
as) This elegant eco-resort has smart hotel

rooms, sophisticated two- and three-bedroom

timber villas (three-night minimum from
$820), restaurants, bars and shops.
CAMPING

www.fraserislandco.com.au; Happy Valley; d & tr from $150, f

from $200; s) A small resort comprising a series

The best QPWS camping grounds (sites per person/

family $4/16), with coin-operated hot showers,
toilets and barbecues, are at Waddy Point,
Dundubara and Central Station. Campers with
vehicles can also use the more basic grounds
at Lake Boomanjin, Lake Allom and, on the
western coast, Ungowa and Wathumba. There
is also a hikers-only camping ground at Lake
McKenzie. Camping is permitted on designated stretches of the eastern beach (you also
need a permit for these). Fires are prohibited
except in communal fire rings at Waddy Point
and Dundabara; you need to bring your own
untreated, milled timber.
Frasers at Cathedral Beach (%07-4127 9177; www

of self-contained, timber lodges pocketed in

.fraserislandco.com.au; Cathedral Beach; unpowered/powered

Hotels
Eurong Beach Resort (%07-4127 9122; www.fraser-is
.com; Eurong; r $120-190; as) Cheerful Eurong is
the main resort on the east coast. The cheapest digs are in simple motel rooms and units,
climbing in price to comfortable apartments
and A-frame chalets. Theres also a restaurant
(mains $15 to $30), lagoon-style pool and the
popular Beach Bar.
Fraser Island Wilderness Retreat (%07-4127 9144;

lonelyplanet.com

park with abundant grassy sites and excellent facilities.

Getting There & Away

CHILDERS
%07 / pop 1500

DEADLY DINGOES
Its hard not to feel sorry for Lindy Chamberlain. If Australia had known in 1980 what it does
now, perhaps her cry that A dingos got my baby would have been taken seriously and the
Mt Isa mother might not have been convicted for murder in Darwin. Tragically, it took another
death, of a nine-year-old Brisbane boy on Fraser Island in 2001, before the debate over whether
Australias native dogs are dangerous to humans was settled conclusively.
That fatal mauling at Waddy Point was the worst in an increasing number of attacks on Fraser
in the preceding years. In response, around 30 of Fraser Islands estimated 160 dingoes were culled
on the orders of the Queensland government, drawing condemnation from indigenous Australians
and environmental groups. The saddest fact is that this event, and the growing aggressiveness of
the animals, results from tourists hand-feeding or harassing the dingoes over the years.
There is now a minimum fine of $225 (and a maximum one of $3000!) for feeding dingoes
or leaving food where it may attract them to camping grounds. The QPWS provides a leaflet on
being Dingo Smart in its Fraser Island information pack.

This is a slightly faded old sugar-cane town

with lattice-trimmed buildings that maintain
a country charm reminiscent of a bygone era.
Unless youre a backpacker coming here to
work, its probably not worth more than a stroll
and a stop at the famous ice-cream factory,
Mammino (%4126 2880; 115 Lucketts Rd; h9am-6pm),
on your way north. The company is just outside
Childers; as you head along the Bruce Hwy to
Bundaberg turn left towards Woodgate.
Sadly, Childers is most infamous for a devastating fire at the Palace Backpackers Hostel
in June 2000, in which 15 backpackers died.
There is now a beautiful memorial, with extremely moving dedications to those who perished, at the Childers Palace Memorial Art Gallery

F R A S E R C OA S T C h i l d e r s 365

and Information Centre (%4126 3886; h9am-5pm

Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat & Sun), where youll also find
a good gallery. The hostel re-opened in 2004
on a spot just behind the original.
The new Childers Backpackers Palace (%4126
2244; www.childersbackpackers.com; Churchill St; dm/d $25/60,
per week $150/170; a) is part working hostel, part

motel. Its a stylish-looking joint with bright

paint and a pseudo-industrial theme. Backpackers and hotel guests are kept completely
segregated, and dorm dwellers are not allowed
to bring booze onto the grounds (motel guests
are free to do as they please). Speaking of the
motel, its a fabulous deal. The rooms are much
funkier than your average roadside sleeping
establishment, with walls painted red, thick
(read: not scratchy) doonas and ultra-modern
baths. Everything is brand new as the motel
section only opened in late 2006.
Greyhound Australia (%13 14 99) and Premier
Motor Service (%13 34 10) both stop at the Shell
service station just north of town and have
daily services to/from Brisbane ($75, eight
hours), Hervey Bay ($20, one hour) and Bundaberg ($20, 1 hours).

BUNDABERG
%07 / pop 55,464

Home to a rum-guzzling polar bear, a turtle

maternity ward (of sorts) and a motley crew of
migrant backpackers, Bundaberg is a country
town that feels oh-so two centuries ago. Aside
from the odd aesthetic alteration, Bundy, as
its affectionately known, has remained relatively unaltered since birth. Sitting at the edge
of a coral-fringed coast, amid fields of waving
sugar cane, the towns main strip is embellished with wide streets, stoic old Queenslanders and swaying palms.
People come to Bundy for two reasons: either to pick fruit at nearby orchids or to drink
rum. Australias favourite sugar-cane liquor is
distilled here. You can tour the facilities, meet
the company spokesperson (a powdery white,
life-sized polar bear) and try a few shooters of
the potent stuff (beware of drinking too much
the hangover is beyond brutal).

Information
Bundaberg visitors centre (%1800 308 888; www
.bundabergregion.info; 186 Bourbong St; h9am-5pm
Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat & Sun)
Cosy Corner Internet Cafe (%4153 5999; Barolin St;
per hr $4; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 11am5pm Sun) Internet access.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

Sleeping & Eating

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

55

ve

To Townsville
(385km)

100 km
60 miles

Mackay

Crocodiles inhabit rivers and

lakes in tropical areas;
swimming is not recommended.

Homebush

Sarina

70

Cape Palmerston

1 A1

Northumberland
Islands

Moranbah

aa

Do

er

Rd

Blair Athol

k
ea

Riv

Dipperu
National
Park

Is

nta

Clairview

Long
Island

St Lawrence

Broad
Sound

Clermont

Br

Middlemount

ental

Rd

Capri

corn

Comet

Dingo
Hwy
Duaringa

Brown

Pla net
Cre ek

River

Mt
Morgan
Dululu
Mt Larcom

Baralaba

Moura

Hw

rd

ha

ich

Le

River

rvon Hwy

r na

Ca

Bargara

73

Gin
Gin

12

Bundaberg

Childers

Dallarnil

Biggenden

52

Hervey
Bay

Torbanlea

Maryborough

A5

75

Wandoan

Eurimbula
National Park
Moore Park

Lake
Monduran

Cracow

Eidsvold

16

e Hw

To Miles (68km);
Goondiwindi
To Roma
(288km)
(50km)

Wuruma

Mundubbera

39

A7

Bruc

Taroom

Injune

55

Kalpowar
Hw
69
y
Monto
Lake

et

on

ws

Da

Capricorn
Bunker
Group

Gladstone

rn

A5

Expedition
National
Park

Tropic of

Curtis Island
National Park
Curtis Island

Bu

ee

39

Isla Gorge
National
Park

Capricorn
Group

Heron
Island

Boyne Island
Tannum Sands Lady Musgrave
Rannes
Hwy
son
Island
Turkey
Daw Calliope
17 A3
Beach
Town of 1770
1 A1
Agnes Water
Biloela
Lady
Deepwater
Banana
Miriam Vale
Elliot
National Park Island

Theodore

Lake
Nuga
Nuga

Emu Park

Rockhampton

66

Wowan

Great Keppel
Island

Yeppoon

Rosslyn Bay

A5

Cr

n
to
er g e

Carnarvon
Gorge

Byfield National Park

A4

Blackdown
Tableland
National
Park

Rolleston
Carnarvon
National
Park
Big Bend
Camping
Ground Wyseby

Capricorn
Caves

Fitzroy River

lopm

River

ve

Blackwater

Comet

Springsure
Da
ws
on
Hw
y

De

ac

Lake
Maraboon
Snake Range
National Park
55 A7

ie

nz

ke

Emerald

Anakie

CORAL
SEA

Marlborough
Hw
y
Byfield

Willows
Gemfields

A4

uc

zro

Anakie
Gem Area

66

SHOALWATER BAY
MILITARY TRAINING
AREA

Ogmore

Fit

Tieri

Rubyvale
Sapphire

Shoalwater
Cape Townshend
Bay

Dysart

Capella

To Barcaldine
(180km);
Longreach
(288km)

Stanage

1 A1

QUEENSLAND

Nebo

A7

ek

The Capricorn Coast boasts the kind of islands people drool over in office daydreams
white-sand beaches; seas like turquoise tapestries, flecked with aquamarine, emerald
and cerulean; and some of the best diving
and snorkelling on the entire Great Barrier
Reef. Named because it straddles the tropic
of Capricorn (youll find latitude 23 5 in
Australias brash beef-farming and bullriding capital, Rockhampton), away from
the coast the fertile hinterland offers rugged national parks and Queenslands best
fossicking sites for gemstones, particularly
sapphires.

With 19 spectacular dive sites, the 40-hectare

Lady Elliot is where to head if youre certified
in scuba. Explore shipwrecks, coral gardens,
0
0

The
Diggings

Cre

CAPRICORN COAST

Eungella
National
Park

tto

pm e

fruit can feel like doing hard time, so why

not make the experience authentic and stay
in a jail? The Cell Block, located in Bundys
old courthouse, has doubles in holding cells
out the back, and dorms in inside offices. This
is the best bet for working backpackers in
town. Not only is the hostel super-efficient,
but it also hooks you up with farm work and
provides transport plus it doesnt discourage
drinking. You cant bring your own alcohol in,
but the big place has a huge, outdoor bar that
stays open until 1am; the motto here seems to
be work hard, play harder. About 90% of the

The main bus stop in Bundaberg is Stewarts

Coach Terminal (%4153 2646; 66 Targo St). Greyhound
Australia (%13 14 99) and Premier Motor Service
(%13 34 10) have daily services between Bundaberg and Brisbane ($65, seven hours), Hervey
Bay ($25, 1 hours), Rockhampton ($55, four
hours) and Gladstone ($45, 2 hours).
The Queensland Rail (%1300 131 722) Sunlander
($60, seven hours) and Tilt Train ($60, five
hours) both make the journey from Brisbane
to Bundaberg on their respective routes to
Cairns and Rockhampton.

Mount
Coolon

Su

Mistake

www.cellblock.com.au; cnr Quay & Maryborough Sts; dm per

night/week from $25/145, d $66; ais) Picking

Getting There & Away

Lady Elliot Island

CAPRICORN COAST

To Charters
Towers
(202km)

evelo

Bundaberg feels like it has more backpackers

per capita than even Airlie Beach! Weve only
scraped the iceberg albeit our favourite bit
here. Most of Bundys hostels are the working variety attracting long-term guests (some
places quote rates by the week not night).
Feeling Grounds Backpackers (%4152 3659; www
.footprintsadventures.com.au; 4 Hinkler Ave; dm $20) Run
by the environmentally conscious company
that does the turtle tours (see p368), this new
backpackers in a beautiful, five-bedroom
Queenslander caters to both working and
nonworking visitors a rarity in Bundy.
Dorms feel semi-private, with just four beds;
plus theres free laundry, a big kitchen and a
barbecue area. Feeling Grounds, named after
the place Bundys turtles rest, has a homely
vibe and is perfect for relaxing. Three pubs
and a shopping centre are within walking
distance.
oCell Block Backpackers (%1800 837 773;

yD
gor
Gre

QUEENSLAND

Sleeping & Eating

before Cairns, and that includes sailing in the

Whitsundays most sailing trips only visit a
fringing reef because the main reef is simply
too far away.
Most people visit on day trips from the
Town of 1770 (see p369) or Hervey Bay. The
tours stop at a number of beaches and snorkelling spots and include lunch. Theyll set
you back nearly $200, but unless youre willing to camp, or have loads of cash to blow,
theyre actually the most economical way to
see these isles.

The Great Barrier Reefs southernmost islands

are the Capricorn Coasts brightest stars. The
group of coral cays sit pretty in a glassy azure
sea about 80km northeast of the Bundaberg
Coast. With crystal-clear water and relatively
untouched coral, this area has some kick-arse
diving and snorkelling. Lady Elliot has 19
highly regarded dive sites, while Heron Island,
with a gentle beach entrance, is perfect for
beginners.
If you are really intent on swimming along
the real Great Barrier Reef and not heading
any further north than Airlie Beach, its
probably best to do your Great Barrier Reef
experience here. The reef is closer to shore
here than from anywhere else along the coast

Ri

duction from start to finish and, if youre old

enough (over 18), you get to sample the final
product. The one-hour, wheelchair-accessible
tours run every hour on the hour. Note, you
must wear closed-toed shoes or you will be
denied entry.
About 16km east of Bundaberg the small
beach hamlet of Bargara entices divers and
snorkellers with a dazzling bank of coral near
the Barolin Rocks and in the Woongarra
Marine Park.

SOUTHERN REEF ISLANDS

Hw

Ave St; adult/child $7.70/4.40; htours 10am-3pm Mon-Fri,

10am-2pm Sat & Sun). Tours follow the rums pro-

guests here are working backpackers. The 10bed dorms are a bit cramped, and it is worth
paying the extra $1 per night for air-con. The
doubles are small and simple, but provide
privacy for couples.
Oscar Motel (%4152 3666; [email protected];
252 Bourbong St; r $75-95; ais) This reliable
motel has a good range of rooms, from small
and functional to utterly cavernous. All have
cable TV and the proud and professional
owners keep the whole place spotless. It has
broadband internet access in rooms.
Metro Bar & 166 Restaurant (%4151 3154; 166
Bourbong St; mains $15-20; hlunch & dinner) Rest
your bum on a black bar stool thats actually
comfy inside this modern and airy bar with
wood and stainless steel tables, a big-screen
TV playing sport and news, and a number of
beers on tap. Live music amps things up at
night. The upstairs restaurant serves hearty
Australian meals.
Self caterers should head to the IGA Supermarket (Woongarra St).

C A P R I C O R N C OA S T S o u t h e r n R e e f I s l a n d s 367

wns

You can see the vats in which Australias finest sugary gold is spun at the Bundaberg Rum
Distillery (%4131 2999; www.bundabergrum.com.au;

lonelyplanet.com

es
Ra t
n

Sights & Activities

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

Ch

366 C A P R I C O R N C OA S T

To Dalby
(135km)

To Gympie
(110km)

Gayndah
17

A3

To Gympie
(40km)

57

368 C A P R I C O R N C OA S T S o u t h e r n R e e f I s l a n d s

lonelyplanet.com

Warning: this uninhabited cay is so visually

orgasmic it may encourage fits of spontaneous
hedonism. The 15-hectare impostor Garden of
Eden is a national park about 100km north of
Bundaberg. Lady Musgraves aqua lagoon is
a popular destination for coral-spotting daytrippers, and a desert island camp for those on
diving and snorkelling retreats everyone from
backpackers to grandparents are welcome. The
island also has a dense canopy of pisonia forest,
which brims with terns, shearwaters and whitecapped noddies during nesting season. The
birds nest from October to April, and green
turtles nest from November to February.

A QPWS camping ground (per person/family $4/16)

lies on the islands west side, with bush toilets
and little else. Campers need a permit and
must be totally self-sufficient, even bringing
their own water. Numbers are limited to 40
at any one time, so apply well ahead for a
permit at the Gladstone QPWS office (%07-4971
6500; www.epa.qld.gov.au; 136 Goondoon St). Still, if you
can tough it out, this is a fabulous place to just
forget civilisation for a day or two.
1770 Great Barrier Reef Cruise operates
great day trips from the Town of 1770; see
opposite for more information.

Heron & Wilson Islands

With the underwater reef world accessible
directly from the beach, Heron Island is famed
for superb scuba diving and snorkelling, although youll need a fair amount of cash to
visit. A true coral cay, it is densely vegetated
with pisonia trees and surrounded by 24 sq
km of reef. Theres a resort and research station on the northeastern third of the island;
the remainder is national park.
Heron Island Resort (%07-4972 9055, 1800 737 678;
www.heronisland.com; s/d from $350/480) covers the
northeastern third of the island. Its comfortable accommodation is suited to families and
couples the Point Suites have the best views.
Prices include all meals, but guests will pay
$180/90 per adult/child for launch transfer,
or $495/248 for helicopter transfer. Both are
from Gladstone.
Wilson Island (www.wilsonisland.com; 5-night s/d
from $2600/4000), also part of a national park, is
an expensive wilderness retreat with permanent tents. There are excellent beaches and
superb snorkelling and all guests buy combined Wilson-Heron packages of two nights
on Heron and three on Wilson, with all meals
included.

The twin coastal towns of Agnes Water and

Town of 1770 are among Queenslands most
appealing seaside destinations and the perfect
place to surf away from the crowds. Neither
is large enough to even really be considered a
town. Agnes Water boasts a few shops clustered around the corner of Captain Cook and
Round Hill Drs, along with holiday homes,
villa rentals and a few B&Bs. Surrounded by
national parks, and a healthy distance from
the beaten track, Agnes is Queenslands most
northerly surf beach and its refreshing lack
of crowds makes it a great place to ride. The
Town of 1770, 5km south of Agnes Water, is
even more laid-back than its sibling (it basically consists of a marina!). It gets it name
from the year Captain Cook first set foot upon
its shores.
For area info, head to the Agnes Water Visitor
Information Centre (%07-49 74 7002; Rural Transaction
Centre, Round Hill Rd).

Activities
Agnes Water is Queenslands northernmost
surf beach. A surf life-saving club patrols the
main beach. There are often good breaks
along the 5km coast that are good for learning. Originally known as a long board break
(translation: for beginners), everyone knows
that when theres swell, the coast here is anyones wave. Experienced riders will like Agnes
Point. When its going off its a gnarly ride.
Reef 2 Beach Surf School (%07-4974 9072; www
.reef2beachsurf.com) can teach you how to ride.
There are daily one-hour lessons at 10am. Just
show up in front of the surf shop to join. Lessons cost just $20 per person for four or more
students. The school was moving when we
visited, so check out its website or give them
a ring if you need more info. Otherwise, youll
be able to recognise them on the main beach
look for the group with matching yellow sun
shirts. The shop also rents boards and sells all
the surf gear you could need.

Tours
If you really need to get away from it all, try
the unspoilt Fitzroy Reef Lagoon, a stunning
coral outcrop on the Great Barrier Reef.
Recommended tour operator:
1770 Great Barrier Reef Cruises (%07-4974 9077;
www.spiritof1770.com.au; Captain Cook Dr; adult/child
incl lunch $145/70 plus $5 per person environment tax)
Has excellent day trips to Lady Musgrave Island including

snorkelling and fishing gear. Cruises depart the Town of

1770 marina. Island camping transfers are also available
for $240 per person ($260 in school holidays).

Sleeping & Eating

Mango Tree Motel (%4974 9132; 7 Agnes St; r from $100;
a) Families and groups of holidaying friends
dig this good-value motel, just 100m from the
beach. Its large self-contained rooms (sleeping
up to six per room) book out quickly. Theres
also a licensed restaurant and the option of
continental breakfast with the room rate.
oSandcastles 1770 Motel & Resort (%074974 9428; www.sandcastles1770.com.au; 1 Grahame Colyer Dr,
Agnes Water; r & units $125-465; ais) The bou-

tique motel rooms at this brand-new place are

an awesome deal! These modern, architecturally stimulating affairs sleep up to four, have
6m-high sloping ceilings, kitchenettes and
cheap furniture thats jazzed up enough to be
cool. If you want to stay longer, or have a bigger
group, Sandcastles also rents out beach houses.
These are just as stylish and funky. Price depends on size and season. Sandcastles is just a
few minutes walk from the surf beach at Agnes
Water, has a saltwater swimming pool and a
popular restaurant and bar at dinner. A different on-site caf serves breakfast and lunch
try the iced coffees and fresh juices.
Beach Shacks (%07-4974 9463; www.1770beachshacks
.com; 578 Captain Cook Dr, Town of 1770; d from $150) These
delightful Balinese-inspired units are hardly
shacks: theyre gorgeous, very private affairs
decorated in timber, cane and bamboo; offer
grand views; and are just minutes walk from
the water. An on-site bar and restaurant and
a fully stocked guest kitchen give you eating
options.
Kahunas (%07-4974 9428; 1 Grahame Colyer Dr,
Agnes Water; mains $10-26; hdinner) Attached to
Sandcastles, this self-service eatery order
at the counter, theyll deliver the food is
popular with hotel guests and locals alike.
Sit outside on the breezy patio and share a
bottle of Australian red, Moreton Bay bugs
and a delicious (huge and cheap) pizza. The
servers are friendly, and also accommodating
to menu changes and special requests. Theres
a full bar.

Getting There & Away

Greyhound Australia (%13 14 99) has one daily bus
from Bundaberg ($26, 1 hours). Other buses
are met at Fingerboard Rd by a local shuttle
service (Macca; %07-4974 7540; $19).

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

You almost expect to hear the hushed commentary of wildlife programme-maker David Attenborough during the egg-laying and hatching at Mon Repos, Australias most accessible turtle
rookery. But on this beach, 15km northeast of Bundaberg, its no disappointment to be accompanied instead by the knowledgeable staff from the EPA visitors centre (%07-4159 1652;
h7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri). From November to late March, when loggerhead and other marine turtles
drag themselves up the beach to lay their eggs, and young then emerge, the office organises
ranger-guided tours (adult/child/family $8/5/16; h7pm-midnight). Bookings are mandatory through
the Bundaberg visitors centre (p365). Alternatively, go with the highly recommended Footprints
Adventures (%07-4152 3659; www.footprintsadventures.com.au; adult/child incl transfers $42/21). Make sure
you bring warm clothing, rain protection and insect repellent.

Lady Musgrave Island

C A P R I C O R N C OA S T Ag n e s W a t e r & T o w n o f 1 7 7 0 369

AGNES WATER & TOWN OF 1770

TALKING TURTLE

bommies (submerged rock) and blowholes.

Lady Elliot is also a good choice if you suffer
from seasickness its reached by light plane
(hopefully youre not also a nervous flier).
When it comes to sleeping, Lady Elliot can
seem less than fabulous, however. Your only
option, the Lady Elliot Island Resort (%1800 072
200; www.ladyelliot.com.au; r $122-264), is basically a
one-star resort with five-star prices. Although
the rate is partly justified by the amazing underwater scenery at your doorstep, its still
overpriced. Try to book online as Lady Elliot
often has good-value tailored specials inclusive of airfare; some packages even include
meals and diving. Digs are either basic eco
huts (really just cabins with bunks) or simple
but vibrantly coloured motel-style units along
with two bedroom self-contained suites.
Scenic Air (book through the resort) flies
guests in from Bundaberg, Hervey Bay and
nearly every other beach town with an airport between the Gold Coast and Gladstone.
Return prices start at $175 for adults. Again,
its best to try to book air and hotel rates together online.

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

370 C A P R I C O R N C OA S T R o c k h a m p t o n

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

ROCKHAMPTON

innovative temporary exhibitions, for which

there are varying admission charges.
About 6.5km north of the centre, the
Dreamtime Cultural Centre (%4936 1655; Bruce

With pig dogs, Bundaberg Rum, utes, graceful old buildings, lots of beef and country
music, Rocky defines true-blue small-town
Oz. The town proclaims itself to be the
countrys beef capital, and larger-than-life
figurines of cattle greet the visitor at nearly
every turn. There are more than two million
cows within a 250km radius of the city and
believe us, their shit smells.
These days central Queenslands administrative and commercial hub is looking a
bit sad, however. Abandoned buildings mix
with the graceful old Queenslanders lining
super-wide streets and there arent as many
eating choices as there used to be. Queenslands largest river, the mighty Fitzroy, flows
through Rockhamptons heart, but check
before roaming the banks a 12m crocodile
was photographed lounging here on numerous occasions in 2007!
Visit the Rockhampton Visitor Information Centre (%/fax 4922 5339; 208 Quay St; h8.30am-4.30pm
Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun), a helpful office in the
beautiful former Customs House.

Hwy; adult/child $13/6; h10am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, tours

10.30am & 1pm) is a rewarding indigenous Aus-

tralian and Torres Strait Islander heritage

display centre providing a fascinating insight
into local indigenous history. The recommended 90-minute tours include boomerang
throwing.
Rockhamptons wonderful Botanic Gardens
(%4922 1654; Spencer St; admission free; h6am-6pm,
zoo feeding 2.30-3.30pm) are a beautifully land-

scaped oasis of Japanese gardens, lagoons and

immaculate lawns. There is good access for
those with disabilities, a kiosk, an attractive
picnic area and a small zoo with koalas and
a walk-through aviary.

Sleeping & Eating

Following are just a few sleeping options;
there are many more. Many places have attached restaurants.
ODowds Motel (%4927 0344; 100 William St; r from
$60) Popular with the backpacking crowd, it
has basic motel rooms above the pub with
shared bathrooms. The $10 menu (served at
lunch and dinner) is a good bet for poor, hungry travellers. You can choose from around 10
options including chilli, calamari, salad and
even rump steak portions are filling and
generally big enough for two. The outbackstyle, dark, wooden saloon also does a variety
of evening entertainment from live music to

Sights
The excellent Rockhampton City Art Gallery
(%4936 8248; 62 Victoria Pde; admission free; h10am4pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun) boasts an im-

pressive collection of Australian paintings,

including works by Sir Russell Drysdale, Sir
Sidney Nolan and Albert Namatjira. The
permanent collection is supplemented by

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Emu Park (37km)

SLEEPING
Coffee House...............................3
Country Comfort Rockhampton....4
O'Dowd's Motel..........................5
Rockhampton Palms Motor Inn....6

Qu

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W

To Botanic Gardens (3km);

Gladstone (107km); Myella
Farm Stay (120km);
Brisbane (647km)

am

500 m
0.3 miles

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Rockhampton City Art Gallery......2 B1

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Capricorn Caves (25km);
Yeppoon (41km)

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ROCKHAMPTON

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INFORMATION
Rockhampton
Visitor
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Centre....1 B2

B2
B1
B2
A1

EATING
Bush Inn Bar & Grill....................(see 7)
Coffee House............................(see 3)
DRINKING
Criterion Hotel..............................7 B1
Great Western Hotel....................8 B2
TRANSPORT
Greyhound & Premier Bus
Terminal..................................9 A2
Youngs Bus Service...................10 B2

karaoke. The elegant dining room has a terrace overlooking the river.
Rockhampton Palms Motor Inn (%4922 6577;
55 George St; s/d $87/97; as) Very reasonably
priced for a four-star hotel, the Palms offers
21 ground-floor upmarket rooms with good
handicapped access. Austar on the tube and
a fridge to chill your beer in makes hanging
out in your room a comfortable evening activity. Guests can dine across the street at the
Rockhampton Leagues Club, where there is a
cheap all-you-can-eat buffet ($10 to $15) and
drinks ($3 for wine) along with the requisite
poker machines very convenient for budget
travellers splashing out on a motel and needing to eat cheaply.
Coffee House (%4927 5722; www.coffeehouse.com
.au; 51 William St; r from 110; as) Popular with
the business traveller, the Coffee House features beautifully appointed motel rooms, selfcontained apartments and spa suites in central
Rocky. The on-site restaurant (mains $10 to
$25) manages a relaxed vibe despite a perennial buzz from ever-occupied tables. It is a
popular and stylish caf-cum-restaurant-cumwine bar that people flock to for big breakfasts
and excellent coffee in the morning. Local seafood and beef mains, plus an extensive wine
menu, are served at lunch and dinner.
Country Comfort Rockhampton (%4927 9933;
fax 4927 1615; 86 Victoria Pde; d $115-180; ais)

Country Comfort boasts big rooms with

views and excellent service. There are luxurious penthouses and family rooms available
and downstairs youll find a stylish restaurant
and bar.
Bush Inn Bar & Grill (Criterion Hotel; %4922 1225; 150
Quay St; dishes $10-20; hlunch & dinner) The Bush Inn,
in the crumbling but super-atmospheric old
Criterion Hotel, serves some of the best pub
food in town and is very popular with locals.
There are huge steaks, slabs of barramundi,
chicken dishes and pizzas on the menu.

Drinking & Entertainment

Great Western Hotel (%4922 1862; 39 Stanley St;
admission $9) Looking like a spaghetti western
film set, Lee Kernaghans pub is a haven for
cowboys and gals. DJs and occasional live
acts feature on Friday nights, but the best
entertainment is watching poor brave fools
try to ride bucking bulls and broncos in the
bullring every Wednesday.
Criterion Hotel (%4922 1225; 150 Quay St) Easily
Rockhamptons favourite pub, the Criterion

C A P R I C O R N C OA S T A r o u n d R o c k h a m p t o n 371

resonates with a good-time feel in its front bar

and in the Bush Inn Bar & Grill. Theres live
music Wednesday to Saturday nights.

Getting There & Away

AIR

Rockhampton is serviced by Jetstar (%13 15 38),

Virgin Blue (%13 67 89) and Qantas (%13 13 13).
BUS

Greyhound Australia (%13 14 99) and Premier Motor

Service (%13 34 10) have regular coach services
along the Bruce Hwy, and the Rocky terminus
for both carriers is at the Mobil roadhouse (91
George St). There are regular services to and
from Mackay ($55, four hours), Brisbane ($95,
11 hours) and Cairns ($135, 16 hours).
Youngs Bus Service (%4922 3813) operates several services to Yeppoon, including a loop that
includes Rosslyn Bay ($8). Youngs also has
buses to Mt Morgan, Monday to Friday. Buses
depart from the Kern Arcade in Bolsover St.
TRAIN

The Queensland Rail (%1300 131 722, 4932 0453) Tilt

Train and Sunlander connect Rockhampton
with Brisbane (from $95) and Cairns ($220).
The journey takes seven to eleven hours, depending on which service you take. The Spirit
of the Outback also connects Rockhampton with Brisbane (economy seat/sleeper
$95/150, 10 hours) and Longreach (economy
seat/sleeper $105/155, 10 to 11 hours) twice
weekly. The train station is 450m southwest
of the city centre.

AROUND ROCKHAMPTON
The two most compelling reasons to visit the
Rockhampton area are outside of town. The
first, 23km north in the Berserker Range, is
Capricorn Caves (%07-4934 2883; www.capricorncaves
.com.au; Caves Rd; adult/child $16/8; h9am-4pm). This
is a series of limestone caves and passages
that are particularly spectacular during the
summer solstice (1 December to 14 January),
when the sun beams vertical light through the
roof of the Belfry Cave. The informative onehour Cathedral Tour is an easy guided walk
that leaves on the hour. For the more daring,
the three-hour adventure tour ($65) takes you
through tight spots with names like Fat Mans
Misery. You must book in advance and be at
least 16 years of age for this tour.
There are a slew of unique activities to
partake in at Myella Farm Stay (%07-4998 1290;

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

%07 / pop 66,567

lonelyplanet.com

372 C A P R I C O R N C OA S T Ye p p o o n

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

STINGERS
It mightnt look or feel pretty, but unless you stay out of the water a stinger suit is your only
real protection against Queenslands lethal jellyfish (and harmful UV rays!). There are two to be
aware of: the rare and tiny (1cm to 2cm acros
s) irukandji and the box jellyfish, also known as the sea wasp or stinger. Theyre found in coastal
waters north of Rockhampton (occasionally further south) from around October to April, although
the danger period can vary.
If someone has been stung, call an ambulance or get a lifeguard (artificial respiration may
be required), douse the stings with vinegar (available on many beaches or from nearby houses)
and seek medical aid.
Swim only at patrolled beaches between the red and yellow flags. Lifeguards and lifesavers
monitor the water throughout the day at every patrolled beach. Thanks to this method theres
been a 75% reduction in stings in the past several years. Some coastal resorts erect stingerresistant nets that provide small areas for safe swimming (although Surf Lifesaving Queensland
recommend wearing stinger suits even within these enclosures in the unlikely event irukandji fit
through the nets); otherwise stay out of the sea when the sea wasps are around. When snorkelling, visit a sports shop for a stinger suit and (unlike one of our to-remain-nameless authors)
wear it with the zip down the front.

YEPPOON

2525; www.capricornresort.com; Farnborough Rd; r from

$130; as) This large and lavish golf resort

%07 / pop 11,280

The gateway to Great Keppel Island, Yeppoon

is an attractive seaside village with pleasant
beaches giving way in the north to rainforest
around Byfield. Travelling south, you pass
Rosslyn Bay, the departure point for Great
Keppel, before wending your way along scenic
coastline.
For area info, head to Capricorn Coast Information Centre (%1800 675 785, 4939 4888; www.capricorn
coast.com.au; Scenic Hwy; h9am-5pm).

Sleeping
Tropical Nights Motel (%4939 1914; 34 Anzac Parade; d
$80; as) Tropical Nights is the best budget
bet in Yeppoon. Run by an exuberant couple,
it offers decently firm beds, a fridge that gets
really cold and TVs with DVD players. The
cinderblock walls are painted a soothing baby

about 8km north of Yeppoon has rooms ranging from standard hotel digs to plush selfcontained apartments. Theres also a gym,
several bars and restaurants, and immaculate
golf courses. It can have absurdly low rates if
you check online.
Beachside Caravan Park (%4939 3738; Farnborough
Rd; unpowered/powered sites $20/23) A basic and neat
park north of the town centre.

QUEENSLAND

13km from the mainland. Around 90% of its

14 sq km is natural bushland. Theres a wide
range of activities and entertainment to keep
you busy, but you can also find patches of
overwhelming quiet. Backpackers looking for
a cheap, semi-developed, flawlessly beautiful
getaway are very happy here.

Sights & Activities

The tips of air-tubes bobbing above the surrounding waters are testament to the popularity of snorkelling here. Visitors usually start out
investigating Shelving Beach, becoming progressively more and more adventurous as they hike
to Monkey Beach and Clam Bay. The coral here is
OK (and you will see marine life), but its better
around Middle and Halfway Islands (see p374).
There are several bushwalking tracks from
Fishermans Beach, the main beach. The longest, and perhaps the most difficult, leads to
the 2.5m lighthouse near Bald Rock Point on
the far side of the island (about three hours
return).
With 18km of white-sand beaches, you
dont need to go far for a swim. Fishermans
Beach, where the ferries come in, rarely gets
crowded, and its even quieter just round the
corner at Putney Beach.
The Beach Shed (%07-4925 0624; Putney Beach)
is just one of a few places hiring sailboards,
catamarans, motorboats and snorkelling gear.
They can also take you water-skiing, parasailing or camel-riding.
The Great Keppel Island Dive Centre (%07-4939
5022; www.keppledive.com; Putney Beach) on Putney
Beach offers introductory dives with gear supplied for $100, or two qualified boat dives
for $130.

Tours

Youngs Bus Service (%4922 3813) operates a loop

service from Rockhampton to Yeppoon, Rosslyn
Bay, Emu Park and back ($8 one way, daily).

Freedom Fast Cats (%1800 336 244; Rosslyn Bay

marina; adult/child $65/36) Operates a coral cruise to
the best location of the day (depending on tides and
weather), which includes viewing through a glass-bottomed boat and fish feeding. There are also afternoon and
full-day cruises.
Keppel Tourist Services (%07-4933 6744; Rosslyn
Bay marina; adult/child $55/30; hdeparts at 9.15am &
2pm) Operates morning and afternoon coral cruises, which
visit the Middle Island Underwater Observatory.

GREAT KEPPEL ISLAND

Sleeping

Gorgeous Great Keppel Island boasts 18km of

fine white beaches, rivalling any of Queenslands beautiful Whitsunday isles, and sits just

www.greatkeppelresort.com.au; r from $145; ais)

Getting There & Away

Mercure Resort Great Keppel Island (%1800 245 658;

Catering for children, families, couples and

C A P R I C O R N C OA S T G re a t K e p p e l I s l a n d 373

other mature travellers (its still trying to shed

its reputation as an 18- to 30-something party
venue), this resort boasts upmarket rooms
sleeping up to four, a childrens club and a
gamut of facilities including bars, restaurants
and a nightclub. There are tennis and squash
courts, a golf course and water sports from
snorkelling to skiing on offer. More than 40
of the activities are available free to guests.
The resort offers a range of package deals to
make longer stays cheaper, and two meals
are included in the tariff. Its popular with
Australians on holiday.
Great Keppel Island Holiday Village (%07-4939
8655; www.gkiholidayvillage.com.au; s/d tents $40/60, dm
$27, cabins $100) This YHA-affiliated resort caters

to everyone with various types of accommodation (including four- and six-bed dorms
and cabins that sleep four). Its friendly and
relaxed and has good communal facilities.

Eating & Drinking

Splash is the bar in the Mercure Resort Great
Keppel Island day-trippers area. Its the place
to party, with pool tables, a dance floor and
live music. Resort guests can party into the
night at Salt (admission $5; hlate Mon-Sat) nightclub. If patronage in the resort is down, Splash
will party on and Salt wont open.
Keppel Haven Bar & Bistro (%07-4933 6744; dishes
$7-25) Good-value specials at this pleasant,
breezy eatery include a glass of beer. The la
carte menu offers tortillas, fish burgers, stirfries and steaks, and you can consume your
dinner with sunset views.
Island Pizza (%07-4939 4699; the Esplanade; dishes $630; hdinner Tue-Sun, lunch Sat & Sun) This is a friendly
place priding itself on a unique healthy pizza
recipe with plenty of toppings. The pizzas are
rather pricey but still tempting. Also available
are hot dogs and pastas.
The kiosks at Keppel Haven and Great
Keppel Island Holiday Village have a few essentials, but if you want to cook bring your
own supplies.

Getting There & Away

Ferries for Great Keppel leave from Rosslyn
Bay Harbour, about 7km south of Yeppoon. If
you have booked accommodation, check that
someone will meet you on the beach to help
with your luggage.
Keppel Tourist Services (%07-4933 6744; adult/
child/family return $32/16/80) operates ferries to the
island, departing at 7.30am, 9.15am, 11.30am

QUEENSLAND

to experience life on a working station. The

1040-hectare beef property 120km southwest
of Rockhampton offers an all-inclusive package
that includes bush explorations by horseback,
motorcycle or 4WD, and all meals. The kids
will dig learning how to lasso, while animal
lovers will want to learn more about the on-site
kangaroo rehab centre that cares for orphaned
joeys. You can also visit just for the day the
price includes meals and activities. Ring for
directions or to arrange a pick-up.

blue. Its located just across from the sailing

clubs and the main beach.
Yeppoon Surfside Motel (%4939 1272; 1 Anzac
Parade; d $90; as) It is hard to miss this limegreen and galvanised steel motel at the beginning of Yeppoons main beach road. Its a
smart, modern affair with nicer than expected
boutique-style rooms you get tile floors,
area rugs and the ubiquitous floral motel bedspread. TVs come with Austar and you can
order breakfast in your room for an extra
charge. The beach is just across the street.
Rydges Capricorn Resort (%1800 075 902, 4925

www.myella.com; Baralaba Rd; 1/2 nights incl meals & activities

$180/260, day trips $80), a must for anyone wanting

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

374 C A P R I C O R N C OA S T O t h e r K e p p e l B a y I s l a n d s

and 3.30pm, and returning at 8.15am, 2pm

and 4.30pm. Keppel Tourist Services and
Rotherys Coaches (%07-4922 4320) run a daily bus
service from Rockhampton to Rosslyn Bay,
picking up from the airport (one way/return
$15/30) or accommodation in Rockhampton
($8.25/16) by arrangement.
Freedom Fast Cats (%1800 336 244, 07-4933 6244;
family/adult/child return $82/36/20) departs Rosslyn
Bay at 9am, 11.30am and 3pm, returning at
10am, 2pm and 4pm.
Although you can make day trips to the fringing
coral reefs of Middle or Halfway Islands from Great
Keppel Island (ask your accommodation or at
Great Keppel Island Holiday Village), you can
also camp (per person/family $8/20) on several national
park islands, including Middle, North Keppel and
Miall Islands. Youll need all your own supplies,
including water. The QPWS (www.epa.qld.gov.au; Rockhampton%07-4936 0511; Rosslyn Bay %07-4933 6608) has
information and permits.
Tiny, privately owned Pumpkin Island (%074939 2431; sites/cabins $20/175), just south of North
Keppel, has five simple, cosy cabins with
water, solar power, kitchen and bathroom;
bring food and linen.
Funtastic Cruises (%0438-909 502) can organise
camping drop-offs from Rosslyn Bay to the
islands. For Pumpkin Island it costs $185 return per person, and gets cheaper per person
for larger groups.

CAPRICORN HINTERLAND
According to the official road-numbering
system, the Capricorn Hwy running inland
from Rockhampton is Australias very own
Route 66, so get your kicks by heading for the
Blackdown Tableland National Park or the
even more spectacular Carnarvon National
Park. Alternatively, some 270km west of the
coast at Emerald, youll find yourself on the
doorstep of central Queenslands gem fields.
It is best to visit in the cooler months between
April and November.

Blackdown Tableland National Park

The Blackdown Tableland is a spectacular 600m sandstone plateau that rises
suddenly out of the flat plains of central
Queensland. This impressive national park
features stunning panoramas, waterfalls,
great bushwalks and Aboriginal rock art,
plus some unique wildlife and plant spe-

cies. The turn-off to the Blackdown Tableland is 11km west of Dingo and 35km
east of the coal-mining centre of Blackwater. The 23km gravel road, which begins at
the base of the tableland, isnt suitable for
caravans and can be unsafe in wet weather
the first 8km stretch is steep, winding and
often slippery. At the top youll come to the
breathtaking Horseshoe Lookout, with picnic tables, barbecues and toilets. Theres a
walking trail to Two Mile Falls (2km) starting
here.
The picturesque South Mimosa Creek camping
ground (%Dingo rangers 4986 1964; per person/family
$8/20) is a self-registration camping area about
6km on from Horseshoe Lookout. It has pit
toilets and fireplaces youll need water,
firewood and/or a fuel stove. Bookings are
advised.

Gem Fields
The lure of the gem fields is like the lady-luck
pull of Queenslands ubiquitous pokies. In the
fields west of Emerald, youll hear numerous
tales of fossickers unearthing sapphires, rubies or zircons worth squillions, just minutes
after drifting into town. Many of these stories
are even true, as the gem fields around Anakie, Sapphire, Rubyvale and Willows are the
worlds largest of their kind and renowned for
large, rare sapphires.
To go fossicking you need a licence (adult/family
$7/10) from the Emerald Courthouse or one of
the gem fields general stores or post offices. If
you just wish to dabble, you can buy a bucket
of wash (mine dirt in water) from one of the
fossicking parks and hand-sieve and wash it.
In Anakie, 42km west of Emerald, the Gemfields Information Centre (%07-4985 4525; 1 Anakie Rd)
has maps of the fields and fossicking licences.
It also hires out fossicking equipment.
Another 18km on lies Rubyvale, the main
town on the fields, and 2km further than
that is the excellent Miners Heritage Walk-in
Mine (%07-4985 4444; Heritage Rd; adult/child $9.50/3;
h9am-5pm), which has informative 20-minute
underground tours throughout the day in
which you descend into a maze of tunnels
18m beneath the surface.
Rubyvale Holiday Units (%07-4985 4518; www
.rubyvaleholiday.com.au; 35 Heritage Rd, Rubyvale; d $70-120;
as) has spacious motel and self-contained

units, about 1km north of Rubyvale.

There are caravan-camping parks at Anakie, Rubyvale and Willows Gemfields.

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

Carnarvon National Park

Carved out over millions of years by a creek
running through sandstone, this rugged national park features dramatic scenery and
numerous Aboriginal rock paintings and
carvings. Carnarvon Gorge is an amazing oasis,
with river oaks, flooded gums, cabbage palms,
moss gardens, deep pools and platypuses in
the creek. Standing on the valley floor, the
sheer 200m rock walls towering above are
simply humbling.
For most people, Carnarvon Gorge is
the Carnarvon National Park, because the
other sections including Mt Moffatt, Ka
Ka Mundi and Salvator Rosa are quite
inaccessible.
Coming from Rolleston the road is bitumen for 70km and unsealed for 25km. From
Roma via Injune and Wyseby homestead, the
road is good bitumen for about 215km then
unsealed and fairly rough for the last 30km.
After heavy rain, both these roads can become
impassable.
The entrance road leads to an information centre (%4984 4505; h8-10am & 3-5pm) and
scenic picnic ground. The main walking
track also starts here, following Carnarvon
Creek through the gorge, with detours to
various points of interest. These include the
Moss Garden (3.6km from the picnic area),
Wards Canyon (4.8km), the Art Gallery (5.6km)
and Cathedral Cave (9.3km). Allow at least a
whole day for a visit. Basic groceries and ice
are available at Takarakka Bush Resort (see
below).
You cannot drive from Carnarvon Gorge to
other sections of the park, although you can
reach beautiful Mt Moffatt via an unsealed
road from Injune (4WD necessary).

O U T B A C K G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 375

.gov.au; sites per person/family $4/16) Isolated camping

ground 10km walk up the gorge.
Mt Moffatt Camping Ground (%07-4626 3581;
www.epa.qld.gov.au; sites per person/family $4/16)
Campers need to be self-sufficient and have a 4WD.
GETTING THERE & AWAY

CQ Travel Link (Emerald Coaches; %07-4982 1399; Old

Railway Station, Clermont St, Emerald), provides transfers to/from the park and Emerald for $110
one way.

OUTBACK
Theres adventure aplenty waiting for you
in Queenslands giant back yard. In this
parched and sunburnt country, a place where
the smouldering sky is so big it bumps up
against the ancient ochre terra firma, the Wild
West has yet to be won. Heading away from
the coast across the Great Dividing Range,
the legendary outback is Australias last great
frontier. Exuding a restless, untamed energy,
the heart of the country is at once remote,
remorseless and magnificent.
Although sparsely settled, the outback is
well serviced by major roads, namely the
Overlanders Way (Flinders and Barkly Hwys)
and the Matilda Hwy (Landsborough Hwy
and Burke Developmental Rd). Once you
turn off these major arteries, however, road
conditions deteriorate rapidly, services are
remote and you need to be fully self-sufficient,
carrying spare parts, fuel and water. Also do
some planning research as some sights and
accommodation options (in particular the
outback stations) close from November to
March, the outbacks hottest period.

SLEEPING

Getting There & Away

Its best to book several months ahead, especially from April to October.
Takarakka Bush Resort (%07-4984 4535; www

AIR

.takarakka.com.au; Wyseby Rd; unpowered/powered sites $24/30,

cabins $80) About 5km from the picnic ground,

this picturesque bush oasis has an open camping area and a ring of simply furnished, elevated
canvas cabins (BYO linen) with private verandas. The facilities are good and the receptionshop sells drinks, groceries, ice and petrol.
Bookings are required for both camping
options:
Carnarvon Gorge Visitor Area & Big Bend Camping Ground (%13 13 04, 07-4984 4505; www.epa.qld

Qantas and QantasLink (%13 13 13) fly from

Brisbane to Barcaldine, Blackall, Charleville,
Longreach and Mt Isa. Macair (%13 13 23)
also flies between Brisbane and various outback destinations, including Birdsville via
Charleville, Quilpie and Windorah. It also
connects Mt Isa to Cairns.
BUS

Greyhound Australia (%13 14 99) connects Mt

Isa to Townsville ($125, 11 to 12 hours) and
Brisbane ($185, 26 hours). From Mt Isa, buses
continue to Three Ways in the NT.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

OTHER KEPPEL BAY ISLANDS

lonelyplanet.com

er S t

St

flow

s St
Mile

To Townview Motel (700m);

School of the Air (1.5km);
Cloncurry (120km);
Townsville (900km)

al St

Simpso
n

St

Camoo
we

1
St

To Dajarra (152km);
Boulia (297km)

Orientation & Information

Barkly Hwy, which becomes Marian St, is
the main entry road. The city centre is in the
area between Grace and Isa Sts, and West and
Simpson Sts. Mt Isa Airport (%4743 4598; Barkly Hwy)
is roughly 5km from the town centre; a taxi to
town costs around $17. Head to Outback at
Isa (below) for tourist information.

Sights & Activities

Coastal Queenslanders will tell you theres
only one reason to make the 1200km plus
trek to Mt Isa, and it is to visit the Australian
tourism awardwinning Outback at Isa (%1300
659 660, 4749 1555; www.outbackatisa.com.au; 19 Marian St;
h8.30am-5pm). Ancient history comes alive at

this museum, which is a one-stop educational

St

Spence

St

Corbou
ld
Pamela

St

St

St

Ian St

Deighto
n

83

Isa St

Centenary
Park

Joan St

Stanley

Church St

Gray St

Swimming
Pool

Fourth Ave

ay A
(Develve (Diamantina
op ment
al Rd)

o n St

St

66 83
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Mullan

Leichhardt River

(Bark
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Mt Isa
Library

Marian

e St

To Lookout
(1km)

stop for Queenslands outback history, from

pioneering to mining to local cultures. Get kitted out in fair-dinkum mining attire and head
lamps at the Hard Times Mine (adult/child $45/26).
You descend a purpose-built mine complete
with fuming, roaring and rattling machinery.
The fascinating Riversleigh Fossil Centre (adult/child
$10/6.50) is also here. It features a re-creation
of Australias prehistoric fauna, and actual
fossils. The centre also houses the Isa Experience Gallery and Outback Park (adult/child $10/6.50),
showcasing the natural, indigenous and mining heritage of Mt Isa. Theres a good-value,
two-day Discovery Tour Pass (adult/child $55/33),
which combines all the attractions.
Paper is handcrafted from native plants
such as spinifex at Arilla Paper (%4743 0084;

QUEENSLAND

To Mine
(200m)

Georg
Ath

G ra c e S
t

66 83 A2

St

QPWS

West S
t

Station St

Const
ance
St

Mary

Train
Station

%07 / pop 22,600

A3

EATING
Dinner Under Isa.............(see 3)
Verona Restaurant...........(see 5)

Zen

Rose St

D3
D2
D3

SLEEPING
Mecure Hotel Verona........5 C3

a St

MT ISA
If you want a taste of life in big town outback
Queensland, Mt Isa has all the rough-aroundthe-edges cowboy flavour adventurous travellers crave. Plus its about as authentic as the
outback gets. Locals stroll across the pedestrian crossings with absolute certainty that the
cars will stop for them, and honking horns are
usually from drivers waving hello.
At 121km west of Cloncurry, the Isa is a
long way from anywhere. Once you arrive,
however, youre bound to be impressed by the
beauty: stark red ridges meet cerulean skies,
and bump up against olive-green clumps of
spinifex.
Mt Isa owes its prosperity to immensely
rich underground lead, zinc, silver and copper
ore bodies west of the city. The mines job opportunities have attracted people from about
50 different ethnic groups, most of whom
are men (there are supposedly three males to
every female!). The sandy Leichhardt River
divides townside from mineside, and home
from work.

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Arilla Paper........................ 1
City Lookout..................... 2
Outback at Isa...................3
Royal Flying Doctor
Service Visitors Centre... 4

Sha c k l e t

Stretching a very long 775km from Townsville out to Cloncurry, the Flinders Hwy is
the major route across the top of outback
Queensland. The terrain is, for the most
part, relentlessly flat, although there are a
few points of interest along the way to break
the monotony. The highway was originally a
Cobb & Co coach run, and along its length
are small towns established as coach stopovers. At Prairie, 200km west of Charters
Towers, the friendly Prairie Hotel (%07-4741
5121; Flinders Hwy; r from $40; a) is filled with atmosphere and memorabilia, and even has a
resident ghost. You can sleep, eat and drink
here.
The Porcupine Gorge National Park (%07-4741
1113; camping per person/family $6/18) is an oasis in
the dry country north of Hughenden. The
best spot to go to is Pyramid Lookout, about
70km north of Hughenden. You can camp
here and its an easy 30-minute walk into the
gorge, with some fine rock formations and a
permanently running creek. The venerable
Grand Hotel (%07-4741 1588; 25 Gray St, Hughenden;
r from $30; a) has well-worn, suitably priced
pub rooms and good counter meals.
Julia Creek, 144km further on, is a nowhere
outback town with a smattering of motels
and a caravan park. From Julia Creek, the
sealed Wills Developmental Rd heads north
to Normanton (432km), Karumba (494km)
and Burketown (467km). See the Gulf Savannah section (p417) for more information on
these towns.

Alm
a

A2

Railw

CHARTERS TOWERS TO CLONCURRY

66

$9.50/5; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun AprOct) commemorates Flynns work in setting up

the invaluable Royal Flying Doctor Service.

The building incorporates an art gallery, cultural centre and theatre.
For sleeping try the historic Wagon Wheel
Motel (%4742 1866; 54 Ramsay St; s/d from $54/65;
as), which is clean, comfortable and fairly
priced. Theres also the upmarket (despite
being built from rammed red earth) Gidgee
Inn (%4742 1599; www.gidgeeinn.com.au; d/tw $123/115;
pas) and the tidy Gilbert Park Tourist Village (%4742 2300; unpowered/powered sites $16/20,
cabins $69-74).

To Town
Leagues
Club
(2.5km)

n St
erto

Queensland Rail (%1300 131 722) has three trains

servicing the outback, all running twice
weekly. The Spirit of the Outback runs from
Brisbane on to Longreach (economy seat/
sleeper $185/240, 26 hours) via Rockhampton, with connecting bus services to Winton.
The Westlander has services from Brisbane to
Charleville (economy seat/sleeper $100/160,
17 hours), with connecting bus services to
Cunnamulla and Quilpie; and the Inlander
runs from Townsville on to Mt Isa (economy
seat/sleeper $130/185, 21 hours).

To Riverside
Tourist Park
(1.5km)

e St
Su l p h i d
To Airport (5km);
Lake Moondarra (20km);
Camooweal (188km);
Northern Territory (203km)

300 m
0.2 miles

St

The birthplace of the Royal Flying Doctors

Service (RFDS) and the spot where Qantas
Airlines was conceived (check out the original
aircraft hanger standing at Cloncurry Shire
Airport), Cloncurry has earned a mention
in Australias flying history. Once the largest producer of copper in the 19th-century
British Empire, the Curry of this century is
a pastoral centre with a knack for breaking
national weather records. Australias highest
recorded temperature in the shade, 53.1C,
was measured here in 1889.
John Flynn Place (%4742 1251; Daintree St; adult/child

0
0

MT ISA

n
Sutto

hampton to Longreach at least twice weekly.

Check the web address for details on more
destinations.

%07 / pop 5200

O U T B A C K M t I s a 377

Hwy

CLONCURRY

lonelyplanet.com

Barkly

Emerald Coaches (%1800 428 737; www.emerald

coaches.com.au) makes the run from Rock-

TRAIN

QUEENSLAND

lonelyplanet.com

S un

376 O U T B A C K C h a r t e r s T o w e r s t o C l o n c u r r y

378 O U T B A C K M t I s a t o C h a r l e v i l l e

www.arillapaper.com; cnr Shackleton & Marian Sts), an indig-

enous womens cooperative. Theres a shop and

gallery displaying the interesting products.
Check out Mt Isas kick-arse sunset at the
City Lookout, off Hilary St. It has spectacular
views of the mine and town.
The Royal Flying Doctor Service Visitors Centre (%4743 2800; Barkly Hwy; admission $2.50 donation;
h9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) and the School of the Air
(%4744 9100; Kalkadoon High School, Abel Smith Pde; admission $2 donation; htours 9am & 10am Mon-Fri during school
term) provide fascinating glimpses into how the

needs of remote communities are attended to.

Cowboys and girls will want to visit the Isa
the second weekend in August when Australias largest rodeo (www.isarodeo.com.au) is held.
Townview Motel (%4743 3328; fax 4749 0409; cnr Marian & Kookaburra Sts; r $70-150; as) This motel is
a good choice for its variety of rooms, from
budget to spacious spa suites. You need not
leave to eat. The Abyssinia Caf is an excellent
choice even if youre not sleeping here. Its very
global menu boasts Ethiopian, Indian, Mexican and other far-and-away flavoured dishes.
Its earned a solid reputation around town for
authentic meals and modest bills. It is open for
lunch and dinner (mains $18 to $27).
Mercure Hotel Verona (%4743 3024; www.mercure
.com.au; cnr Marian & Camooweal Sts; r from $159; as)

Book online (or show up on the weekend

when rates drop to less than $100) to score
a deal at this corporate hotel with a 4-star
rating. Big, well-decked rooms offer great
views of the mine. The excellent on-site Verona Restaurant (mains from $24) is a choice
culinary splurge. The inventive menu has an
international spin, featuring good seafood and
Italian cuisine. The atmosphere is a cross between elegant and functional, but the service
is pure class.
Dinner Under Isa (%1300 659 660; 19 Marian St; 3course meal $69; h5-8.30pm Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat) Don
a hard hat, safety specs and head lamp and
enjoy a three-course dinner in the crib room
of the Hard Times mine. Mine tour and tall
stories are included. The mine is licensed.

Getting There & Around

Macair (%13 13 23) connects Mt Isa with Birdsville, Charleville and Normanton. See p375 for
more flight information.
Greyhound Australia (%13 14 99) has regular
services to Townsville ($129, 11 hours),

Longreach ($95, 8 hours) and Brisbane

($185, 26 hours).
The Queensland Rail (%1300 131 722) Inlander
runs between Mt Isa and Townsville (see p376
for more information).
The following car-hire firms have desks
at the airport: Avis (%4743 3733), Hertz (%4743
4142) and Thrifty (%4743 2911). For a taxi, call
%4743 2333.

MT ISA TO CHARLEVILLE
The shortest route to Longreach from Mt Isa
means heading east along Barkly Hwy to the
Landsborough Hwy, 14km east of Cloncurry.
Here the Landsborough heads southeast,
passing through McKinlay (91km), Kynuna
(168km), Winton (339km) and eventually hitting Longreach (516km), Barcaldine (621km)
and Charleville (1020km).
McKinlay is a tiny settlement that would have
been doomed to eternal insignificance had it
not been used as a location in the amazingly
successful movie Crocodile Dundee.
The Walkabout Creek Hotel (%07-746 8424; Landsborough Hwy; unpowered/powered sites $23/25, s/d $55/60;
a) has film memorabilia and all the charm

of a movie set. There are small and basic motel

units a block west of the pub, or theres a
camping ground out the back.
In Kynuna, theres a lot to like about the
historic little Blue Heeler Hotel (%07-4746 8650;
Landsborough Hwy, Kynuna; sites $10, r $45-75; a), from
its walls covered with scrawled messages and
signatures to its unquestionably essential
surf life-saving club. Accommodation ranges
from pub rooms to spotless motel units, and
camp sites. The nearest beach may be almost
1000km away, but each April the Blue Heeler
hosts a surf life-saving carnival.
The signposted turn-off to the waterholes
of Combo Conservation Park, which Banjo Paterson is said to have visited in 1895 before he
wrote Waltzing Matilda, is off the highway
about 12km east of Kynuna.

Winton
%07 / pop 3100

Something of an outback adventure theme

park, Winton is heavy on the heritage and is
sort of the Aussie version of visiting Tombstone, Arizona delivering the cheesy but
quintessential Wild West experience harking
back to the pioneer days. Winton is a cattleand sheep-raising centre. In the last decade
its population has tripled!

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

Wintons biggest attraction is the Waltzing Matilda Centre (%4657 1466; www.matildacentre
.com.au; 50 Elderslie St; adult/child $14/12; h8.30am-5pm),
which doubles as the visitors centre. Here you
can also pick up the Shin Plaster pass, which
covers entry to the towns attractions for $15
per person. There are a surprising number
of exhibits here for a museum devoted to a
song, including an indoor billabong complete
with a squatter, troopers and a jolly swagman;
a hologram display oozing cringe-inducing
nationalism; and the Jolly Swagman statue, a
tribute to the unknown swagmen who lie in
unmarked graves in the area. The centre also
houses the Qantilda Pioneer Place, which has a
huge range of fascinating artefacts and displays on the founding of Qantas.
The Royal Theatre (%4657 1296; 73 Elderslie St; adult/
child $6/4; hscreenings at 8pm Wed Apr-Sep), at the rear
of the Wookatook Gift & Gem, is a wonderful open-air theatre with canvas-slung chairs,
corrugated tin walls and a star-studded ceiling.
It has a small museum in the projection room
(admission $2) and screens old classics.
Arnos Wall (Vindex St), behind the North Gregory Hotel, is Wintons quirkiest attraction a
70m-long work-in-progress, featuring a huge
range of household items, from televisions to
motorcycles, ensnared in the mortar.
The annual Bush Poetry Festival, in July, attracts entrants from all over Australia, but
Wintons major festival is the five-day Outback
Festival, held every odd year during the September school holidays.
To nod off for the night, try heading to the
North Gregory Hotel (%1800 801 611, 4657 1375; 67
Elderslie St; dm $22, s/d $60/70, without bathroom $33/44;
a), a big, friendly country pub where Waltz-

ing Matilda allegedly was first performed on

6 April 1895, although the original building
burnt down in 1900. It has dozens of comfortable, old-fashioned rooms upstairs, with
clean shared facilities. Theres also an excellent bistro (mains $10 to $20).
Greyhound Australia (%13 14 99) connects
Winton with Brisbane ($136, 19 hours),
Mt Isa ($81, six hours) and Longreach ($31,
three hours).

Longreach
%07 / pop 6200

This prosperous outback town was the home

of Qantas early last century, but these days its
equally famous for the Australian Stockmans
Hall of Fame & Outback Heritage Centre, one

O U T B A C K M t I s a t o C h a r l e v i l l e 379

of outback Queenslands biggest attractions.

Longreachs human population is vastly outnumbered by more than a million sheep, and
theres a fair few cattle, too.
The Visitors Information Centre (%4658 3555;
99 Eagle St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun) is
helpful.
SIGHTS

The excellent Australian Stockmans Hall of Fame &

Outback Heritage Centre (%4658 2166; www.outbackherit
age.com.au; Landsborough Hwy; adult/child/family $22.50/12/47;
h9am-5pm) is housed in a beautifully conceived

building, 2km east of town towards Barcaldine.

It was built as a tribute to the early explorers and
stockmen, but now also encompasses several
themed galleries covering Aboriginal culture,
European exploration and pioneering settlers.
Admission is valid for two days.
The Qantas Founders Outback Museum (%4658
3737; www.qfom.com.au; Landsborough Hwy; adult/child/family $18/10/40; h9am-5pm) houses a life-size replica

of an Avro 504K, the first aircraft owned by the

fledgling airline. Interactive multimedia and
working displays tell the history of Qantas.
Next door, the original 1921 Qantas hangar
houses a mint-condition DH-61. Towering
over everything is a bright and shiny 747-200B
Jumbo (adult/child/family $14/8/27), which can be
toured at additional cost.
TOURS

Longreach Outback Travel Centre (%4658 1776;

115a Eagle St) Has a variety of tours, including a Longreach
Lookabout tour (adult/child $145/128) that takes in the
towns sites and ends with a dinner cruise on the Thomson
River.
Outback Aussie Tours (%1300 787 890; 18 Swan St) Offers tours including a combined Winton day tour (adult/child
$150/80) that includes Carisbrooke Station and Lark Quarry.
SLEEPING & EATING

Old Time Cottage (%4658 1550; fax 4658 3733; 158

Crane St; d $85, per additional person $10; a) A great
choice for groups and families, this quaint little
corrugated-iron cottage is set in an attractive
garden. Fully furnished, the self-contained
cottage sleeps up to five people.
Albert Park Motor Inn (%1800 812 811, 4658 2411;
Sir Hudson Fysh Memorial Dr; r from $100; as) On the
highway east of the centre, this good motel has
spacious, four-star, well-appointed rooms,
as well as pools and a spa. The motels Oasis
Restaurant (mains $15 to $30) has an elegant
dining room and varied menu.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

Sleeping & Eating

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

380 O U T B A C K C h a r l e v i l l e

GETTING THERE & AWAY

Greyhound Australia (%13 14 99) connects Longreach with Winton ($31, three hours), Brisbane ($110, 17 hours) and Mt Isa ($95, 8
hours). Buses stop behind the Longreach Outback Travel Centre (%4658 1776; 115a Eagle St).
Emerald Coaches (%1800 28737, 4982 4444; www
.emeraldcoaches.com.au) makes the twice-weekly
run travelling to and from Rockhampton
($84, 9 hours). Buses stop at Outback Aussie Tours (p379).

Barcaldine
Barcaldine (bar-call-din), at the junction
of the Landsborough and Capricorn Hwys
108km east of Longreach, gained a place in
Australian history in 1891 when it became
the headquarters of a major shearers strike.
The confrontation led to the formation of the
Australian Workers Party, now the Australian Labor Party. The Tree of Knowledge, a ghost
gum near the train station, was the organisers
meeting place and now stands as a monument
to workers and their rights.
The Visitor Information Centre (%4651 1724;
Oak St) is next to the train station. The excellent Australian Workers Heritage Centre (%4651
2422; www.australianworkersheritagecentre.com.au; Ash
St; adult/child $12/9; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm
Sun) was built to commemorate the role

of workers in forming Australian social,

political and industrial movements. Set in
landscaped gardens, the centre includes
the Australian Bicentennial Theatre with
displays tracing the history of the shearers
strike, as well as a schoolhouse, hospital
and powerhouse.
A bit south of town, the Ironbark Inn (%4651
2311; 115 Oak St; r from $65; as) has clean, comfortable rooms set in native gardens. Its best
feature, though, is the 3Ls Bar & Bistro (mains
$15-20), a rustic open shed with wooden bench
tables and stockmens ropes and branding
irons on the walls. It serves large steaks, pork
chops and barramundi.
Barcaldines iconic iron-roofed, woodenveranda pubs line Oak St and make a great
display.

CHARLEVILLE
%07 / pop 3500

In outback terms, Charleville is a veritable

city and an oasis. It sits on the Warrego River,
760km west of Brisbane. The town was an

important centre for early explorers Cobb

& Co had their largest coach-making factory
based here
The Cosmos Centre (%4654 7771; www.cosmos
centre.com; adult/child/family $17/11/39; h10am-6pm,
night observatory variable hours) is 2km south of the

centre, off Airport Dr. Here you can tour the

night sky through high-powered telescopes
with an expert guide. The 90-minute sessions
start soon after sunset.
Southeast of the visitors centre, the QPWS
(%4654 1255; 1 Park St; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)

runs a captive breeding programme for endangered native species. You can see yellowfooted rock wallabies here, but best is the Bilby
Show (Racecourse Complex, Partridge St; admission $5; h67pm Sun, Mon, Wed & Fri Apr-Sep), which provides a
fascinating insight into this rare nocturnal
marsupial.
Dominating one of Charlevilles main intersections, Hotel Corones (%4654 1022; 33 Wills
St; r $35-75; a) is a gracious old country pub.
The magnificent preserved interior includes a
huge public bar, leadlight windows, open fires
and heritage rooms try to grab one of these,
as they are less bland than the on-site motel
rooms. For lunch or dinner choose from the
elegant dining room (mains $15 to $20) or
the bar (mains $9).

THE CHANNEL COUNTRY

It is tough country out in the remote and
sparsely populated southwestern corner of
Queensland, which borders the NT, South
Australia (SA) and NSW. Rain hardly ever
blesses this unforgiving area that takes its name
from the myriad of channels crisscrossing it,
but water from the summer monsoons further
north pours in along the Georgina, Hamilton
and Diamantina Rivers and Cooper Creek.
The summer heat is unbearable, so a visit is
best made in winter (May to September).
GETTING THERE & AROUND

There are no train or bus services in the remote and wild Channel Country. Please dont
drive around here unless you know what youre
doing. This is the sort of country where roads
disappear, tracks look the same and it is very,
very easy to get lost. In fact, its required that
you write your name, destination and expected date of arrival on a blackboard at the
station where you start, so search and rescue
services can come looking if you dont show
up within a few days. Some roads from the

lonelyplanet.com

east and north to the fringes of the Channel

Country are sealed, but between October and
May even these can be cut off when dirt roads
become quagmires. Visiting this area requires
a sturdy vehicle (a 4WD if you want to get off
the beaten track) with decent clearance. Always
carry plenty of drinking water and petrol.
The main road through this area is the Diamantina Developmental Rd. It runs south
from Mt Isa through Boulia to Bedourie,
then east through Windorah and Quilpie to
Charleville. Its a long and lonely 1340km,
about two-thirds of which is sealed. Watch
for kangaroos and wild camels on the roads,
especially at the end of the day when the pavement is warm and inviting.

Mt Isa to Birdsville
Its around 300km of sealed road from Mt Isa
south to Boulia, and the only facilities along
the route are at Dajarra, which has a pub and
a roadhouse.
BOULIA

%07 / pop 300

The last outpost before heading into the

mighty Simpson Desert, Boulia is a worthy
diversion. Boulia is not only the last stop
on the worlds longest mail run Australia
Posts 3000km line between Port Augusta in
South Australia and Boulia it is also the selfproclaimed capital of the Channel Country.
As if that werent enough for a small town,
Boulia also boasts a mysterious supernatural
phenomenon known as the Min Min Light (an
earthbound UFO resembling car headlights
that hovers a metre or so above the ground
before vanishing and reappearing elsewhere).
The Min Min Encounter (%4746 3386; Herbert St; adult/
child $11/7.70; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat & Sun)

features sophisticated gadgetry, creative sets

and eerie lighting in its hourly show, which
attempts to convert the nonbelievers. The centre is well worth a visit, and it doubles as the
towns tourist information centre.
If Boulia had a theme song surely it would
be Moonstones on the Soles of your Shoes
(sung to the tune of Paul Simons Diamonds
on the Soles of her Shoes). While in Boulia you
must pick up one of its famous moonstones
as a souvenir they are sold all over town.
These beautiful stones have pyrite crystal
centres that came from the bed of an inland
sea that dried up in the area about 100 million years ago.

O U T B A C K T h e C h a n n e l C o u n t r y 381

Boulia also lays claim to Australias premier

camel racing event held in mid-July.
The modern, spacious Desert Sands Motel
(%4746 3000; fax 4746 3040; Herbert St; s/d $80/90; a)

is the towns most indulgent accommodation

option. The units come with tea- and coffeemaking facilities.
The sealed Kennedy Developmental Rd
runs east from Boulia, 369km to Winton.
The Middleton Hotel (%/fax 4657 3980; Kennedy
Developmental Rd; s/d $45/55), 168km before Winton,
is the only fuel stop en route. It serves meals
daily and you can rent out simple dongas
(small, transportable buildings widely used
in the outback) without bathrooms.
BEDOURIE

%07 / pop 120

From Boulia its 200km of mainly unsealed

road south to Bedourie, the administrative centre for the huge Diamantina Shire
Council.
Theres a caravan park and comfortable
motel units at the Simpson Desert Oasis (%47
46 1291; fax 4746 1208; Herbert St; unpowered/powered sites
$12/18, d $100; a), which incorporates a fuel

stop, supermarket and restaurant. The Royal

Hotel (%4746 1201; fax 4746 1101; Herbert St; s/d $65/75;
a), a charming adobe brick building built in
1880, has two motel units out the back.

Birdsville
%07 / pop 120

Queenslands most remote settlement has

novelty value on this merit alone, but for
brownie points visit during September for
one of Australias most famous and perhaps
booziest races. The big event is the annual
Birdsville Cup horse races held the first weekend
in September. It attracts up to 6500 racing and
boozing enthusiasts from all over Australia
some years there are upwards of 300 aeroplanes parked in the dust outside Birdsvilles
only pub, which trucks in tens of thousands of
cans of beer for the weekend carnival!
Dont miss the Birdsville Working Museum
(%4656 3259; Macdonald St; adult/child $7/5; h8am5pm Apr-Oct, tours at 9am, 11am & 3pm). Inside this big

tin shed is one of the most impressive private

museums in Australia, with a fascinating collection of droving gear, shearing equipment,
wool presses, road signs and much more.
Another highlight is the Blue Poles Gallery &
Caravanserai Cafe (%4656 3099; www.birdsvillestudio.com
.au; Graham St; mains $17; h9am-6pm Sun-Thu, 9am-10pm

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

%07 / pop 1500

lonelyplanet.com

382 O U T B A C K T h e C h a n n e l C o u n t r y

Fri, Sat & school holidays Apr-Nov), where you can in-

spect and buy outback art by exceptional

local artist Wolfgang John and enjoy a good
meal.
Dating back to 1884, the iconic Birdsville
Hotel (%4656 3244; www.theoutback.com.au; Adelaide St;
r $85-110; a) faces resolutely into the Simpson
Desert, and is one of the most famous pubs
in the country. Tastefully renovated, it has
modern motel-style units out the back, and a
good restaurant (mains $15 to $20) for lunch
and dinner. Friday nights are busy thanks to
happy hour and the weekly chook raffle.
Driving the desolate 517km Birdsville Track is
a wild adventure taking you to the ends of the
earth. You dont need a 4WD to tackle one of
Australias favourite outback driving routes,
as the track is smooth dirt. Still, this is hard,
hard country out here, and if youre planning
on making the trek south to Maree in South
Australia youll need a reliable vehicle and
plenty of extra water, fuel and spare parts.
If youre ready, you are in for the trip of a
lifetime. At night, alone in the wilderness
between the Simpson Desert to the west and
Stuarts Stony Desert to the east, the stars in
the velvet sky hang so low that it feels you
could almost touch them.
The first stretch from Birdsville has two
routes, but only the longer, more easterly
Outside Track is open these days. It crosses
sandy country at the edge of the desert. The
trip can be done in two days from Birdsville
with an overnight stop in Mungeranie station
(population three), where youll find fuel, food
and a hotel to rest your throbbing head. The
station is a lonely 313km from Birdsville.
Before heading out check in at the Wirrarri
Centre (%07-4656 3300; www.diamantina.qld.gov.au;
Billabong Blvd; h8.30am-6pm Mar-Oct, 8.30am-4.30pm
Mon-Fri Nov-Feb; i); you can send your mum a

quick email, check on road conditions and let

the staff know your expected arrival time in
Maree so they can send someone looking if
you dont show up.

Simpson Desert National Park

The waterless Simpson Desert occupies a
massive 200,000 sq km of central Australia,
and stretches across the Queensland, NT and
SA borders. The Queensland section, in the
states far southwestern corner, is protected
as the 10,000-sq-km Simpson Desert National

Park, and is a remote, arid landscape of more

than a thousand red sand dunes, spinifex
and canegrass. This is the worlds toughest
ranching country. The land is so unyielding
that ranches have to be enormous to support
themselves one such place is estimated to
be the size of Belgium.
Conventional cars can tackle the Birdsville
Track reasonably easily, but the Simpson
requires a 4WD and far more preparation.
Crossings should only be tackled by parties
of at least two 4WD vehicles, equipped with
suitable communications to call for help if
necessary. Alternatively, you can hire a satellite
phone from Birdsville police (%07-4656 3220) for
$23 per day, which can be returned to Maree police (%08-8675 8346) in SA. Permits are required
to traverse the park, and are available from the
Birdsville QPWS office (%07-4652 7333; cnr Billabong
Blvd & Jardine St) or from the towns petrol stations. You will need to write your anticipated
route and arrival time at your destination on
the police blackboard, so help can be sent if
you get lost this is very, very rough country
and should not be attempted by anyone without lots of outback driving experience.
For the parks SA sections, you need a separate permit, available through the South Australian
National Parks & Wildlife Service (%1800 816 078).

Birdsville to Charleville
The Birdsville Developmental Rd heads east
from Birdsville, meeting the Diamantina Developmental Rd after 277km of rough gravel
and sand. Betoota is the sole town between
Birdsville and Windorah, but there are no
facilities so motorists have to carry enough
fuel to cover the 395km distance.
Windorah is either very dry or very wet. The
towns general store sells fuel and groceries.
The Western Star Hotel (%07-4656 3166; 15 Albert St;
s/d pub rooms $35/50, motel units $85/95; a) has good
pub rooms and motel units.
Quilpie is an opal-mining town and the railhead from which cattle are transported to the
coast. It has a good range of facilities, including two pubs, a motel, a caravan park and
several petrol stations. From here its another
210km to Charleville.
South of Quilpie and west of Cunnamulla
are the remote Yowah Opal Fields and the town
of Eulo, which co-hosts the World Lizard Racing
Championships with Cunnamulla in late August.
Thargomindah, 130km west of Eulo, has a couple
of motels and a guesthouse. Noccundra, another

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

145km further west, was once a busy little community. It now has just one hotel supplying
basic accommodation, meals and fuel. If you
have a 4WD you can continue west to Innamincka, in SA, on the Strzelecki Track, via the site
of the famous Dig Tree, where Burke and Wills
camped in their ill-fated 186061 expedition.

WHITSUNDAY COAST
The Whitsunday Coast is Australias Tahiti a
hedonistic tropical playground where you
can sail glossy azure seas, camp on pearly
white beaches under a blanket of southern
constellations and snorkel in the brilliantly
clear turquoise water belonging to the Great
Barrier Reef National Marine Park. Yes, the
Whitsundays are a dreamy place with few
flaws bouts of stormy weather are about the
worst we can think of.
Although the Whitsunday Islands steal the
show, there are plenty of alternatives to sailing, swimming, snorkelling and sun-soaking
along this stretch of coast. A healthy spread
of national parks in the area provides tremendous opportunities for bushwalking, camping
and platypus spotting. Then theres the partying: Airlie Beach is the gateway to the islands
and chocked with restaurants, bars, clubs and
heady good times.

MACKAY
%07 / pop 80,000

The largest metropolitan area in the Whitsundays region is a lush, palm-lined city
with streets that hum with a relaxed caf
and bar scene. Across the Pioneer River the
constantly transforming marina has added
a new dimension to the city, with a bevy
of stylish residential, tourism and dining
developments.
Mackay itself will likely bore you after a
night, but the attractions to the west of town
are phenomenal. The place is an excellent
base for visiting Eungella National Park with
its famous platypuses and the wilds of Finch
Hatton Gorge.

Orientation & Information

The blue Pioneer River wends its way through
Mackay with the town settled on its southern
side. Victoria St is the main strip.
Mackay Visitor Information Centre (%4952 2677;
www.mackayregion.com; 320 Nebo Rd; h8.30am-5pm Mon-

W H I T S U N D AY C OA S T M a c k a y 383

Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun) is about 3km south of the

centre, and theres also a QPWS office (%4944
7800; fax 4944 7811; cnr Wood & River Sts).

Sights
Artspace Mackay (%4957 1775; www.artspacemackay
.com.au; admission free; Gordon St; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) is
an excellent contemporary gallery, showcasing local and visiting works. Enquire about
current events and activities or just browse
the art before grazing at foodspace (h10am-4pm
Tue-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun), the in-house licensed
caf.
Mackays centre is littered with some fine
Art Deco buildings. Look up when you wander the streets as most of the faades are at
their finest on the second storey. Noteworthy
examples include the Mackay Townhouse Motel
and the Australian Hotel, both on Victoria Street,
and the Ambassador Hotel on Sydney Street. Pick
up the free Art Deco Mackay leaflet from various hotels and restaurants around town.
Mackays best beaches, Blacks Beach, Eimeo
and Bucasia, are about 16km north of town.
Illawong Fauna Sanctuary (%4959 1777; adult/child
$16/10, half-day tours $60; h9am-6.30pm) is a sanctuary for sick animals and an excellent opportunity to witness native wildlife. Crocodile
feeding is at 2.30pm (not to be missed), and
koalas are fed at 5.15pm. Its about 43km west
of Mackay, but tours include transfers. Theres
also the option of dinner, bed and breakfast at
the sanctuarys homestay (per person $60; s).

Tours
Beyond Mackays sugar-cane sea there are
superb rainforest experiences and opportunities for platypus spotting.
Jungle Johno Tours (%4951 3728; larrikin@mackay
.net.au; adult/child/YHA member $75/40/70) Runs
recommended day trips to Eungella National Park,
including pick-up, morning tea and lunch.
Reeforest Adventure Tours (%1800 500 353; www
.reeforest.com; adult/child/family incl lunch $75/65/225)
Explores Finch Hatton Gorge and visits the platypuses of
Broken River.
Scenic Flights (Aviation Training & Transport;
%4951 4300; Casey Ave) Half-hour flights from $75
per person.

Sleeping
BUDGET

Geckos Rest (%4944 1230; www.geckosrest.com.au; 34

Sydney St; dm/d $21/48; ai) In a cool old 1920s
building on the main drag, Geckos has a funky

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

Birdsville Track

lonelyplanet.com

Harold
Island

Thomas
Island

10 km
5 miles

Lindeman
Island

Pentecost
Island

Dent
Passage

0
0

The
Narrows

Conway
Beach
Repulse Bay

Conway
National Park
& State Forest

To Rockhampton
(250km)

1 A1

Sarina Beach

Cape Palmerston
National Park

Knight
Island

ee

Cr

MarlboroughNebo Sarina Rd

Newlands
Coal Mine

Glenden

Elphinstone

To Clermont
(155km)

70

Finch
Hatton

Eungella

n
we
Bo

77

Sarina

Cid
Island
Planton
Shutehaven
Island
Denman
Island Henning
Island
Shute
Dent
Long
Harbour
Island
Island

Eungella
National
Park

Finch
Hatton
Gorge

Calen

Seaforth

Riv

Bo

lop ment al Rd

Collinsville

Shaw
Island

Maher
Island

Solway
Pass

Turtle
Bay
Hamilton Island

Whitehaven
Beach
Haslewood
Island
Whitsunday
Island

Border
Island

Newry Island
Scawfell
Cape
Island
Hillsborough
National Park Keswick St Bees
Island
Island
Bucasia
Eimeo
Kuttabul
Blacks Beach
Slade Point
Marian Pioneer
Valley
Mackay
Mirani
Walkerston
Kinchant
Dam
Hay Point
Prudhoe
Eton
Island
Homebush

Calder
Island

Cockermouth Is
Brampton Island

Carlisle
Island

Rabbit
Island

Midge Repulse Island

Point
Goldsmith
Island

Linne Island
Tinsmith Island

SEA

Proserpine

Bloomsbury

Conway

Laguna
Whitsundays

Conway
National Park Shaw
& State Forest Island

Thomas Island
Blacksmith Island

CORAL

Daydream
Island
North
Molle South
Island Molle
Island

Hayman
Island

Hook
Island

Cid
Harbour

Underwater
Observatory

Crayfish
Beach

Great Barrier Reef

Marine Park
(Whitsunday Group)

Crocodiles inhabit rivers and

lakes in tropical areas;
swimming is not recommended.

Great Barrier Reef

Marine Park
(Whitsunday Group)
Whitsunday
Island

Airlie
Beach

Cannonvale

Broken

er

Deve

0
0

1 A1

sH
w
y

wn

Saddleback
Abbot Point Gloucester Is
Double
Dingo Island
Hydeaway
Armit Cone Island
Beach
Bay
Br
u
Island
ce
To Ayr (59km);
Bowen
Olden
Hwy
See Enlargement
Townsville (148km)
Stone Is
Island
Cape
Hook
77
Mt Aberdeen
Gloucester
Island
National Hwy
Earlando
Grassy Is
Park he

ak

Pe

Do

mo

ter

Pe

Dela

WHITSUNDAY COAST

el

nn

Creek
bo
Ne

ve
Ri

wen

Bruce Hwy

Fu

QUEENSLAND

ge

assa

yP

nda

itsu

Wh

lonelyplanet.com

paint job, huge communal kitchen and a great

rooftop deck. The lack of private bathrooms in
the doubles is made up for by big showers with
private changing areas in the clean communal
bathrooms. Other pluses are a game room, a
TV lounge and central air-con cool enough
to take the heat out of the steamiest day. All
dorms are spacious, but ask for one with a king
single bed. These are the same price, but the
beds are larger and not bunked.
Larrikin Lodge (%4951 3728; fax 4957 2978; 32 Peel St;
dm/tw/f $21/46/72; h7am-2pm & 5-8.30pm) If Geckos
is full, this small YHA-associated hostel in an
airy, high-ceilinged timber house is another
good choice. It is clean, quiet and friendly.
The owners operate Jungle Johno tours (p383)
and will pick you up from the bus terminal if
you ring during office hours.
Ambassador Hotel (%4953 3233; www.ambassador
hotel.net.au; 2 Sydney St; r $45-65; a) Right in the
centre, this historic landmark is the best
midrange option in Mackay. The rooms are
bare-bones, but excellent value and the beds
are pretty comfortable. They vary in price
depending on whether or not you want a full
en suite or just a shower. It is quite a good
deal, especially if you dont feel like sleeping
at the backpackers and want access to the
extremely slick and comfortable Bridges bar
and restaurant downstairs.
Ocean International (%1800 635 104, 4957 2044;
www.ocean-international.com.au; 1 Bridge Rd, Illawong Beach;
d $150-250; ais) If you are willing to stay

a bit out of town, this place is excellent value

and chock full of amenities. On the beach,
close to the airport and only 3km south of
the centre, the four-star complex overlooks
Sandringham Bay and the Coral Sea. Theres
an excellent restaurant and cocktail bar, a spa
and sauna, a business centre, and harbour or
airport transfer service.

Eating
Mackay has options in the city centre and also
at its marina just over the harbour bridge
though youll need a car to get there.
Bridges Restaurant (Ambassador Hotel; %4953
3233; 2 Sydney St; lunch $7-13, dinner $12-29; hlunch
& dinner) This super-slick restaurant-bar

inside the Ambassador Hotel has got soul.

Not only is it quite comfortable (cosy booths
and overstuffed couches), but it also showcases live jazz. The gourmet fusion menu
includes fancy finger food like camembertand-prosciuttostuffed Moreton Bay bugs,

W H I T S U N D AY C OA S T M a c k a y 385

juicy steaks and vegetarian options. The

budget conscious should stop by at lunch.
The same mains are served for about half the
price and you can also order off the $7 homestyle lunch menu (think meatloaf, corned
beef and Indian chicken).
Angelos on the Marina (%4955 5600; Mackay
Marina, Mulherin Dr; mains $9-25) Head to Angelas to
start your day. This big, airy, boxy restaurant
has large windows overlooking the marina, as
well as alfresco seating in the grass, and offers
lots of hearty brekkies. At lunch and dinner
choose from an extensive range of pasta and
a mouth-watering Mediterranean menu. Its
fully licensed, very lively after dark and theres
a free courtesy bus for parties of six or more
people, so join a group and enjoy. Alla tua
salute!
Sorbellos (%4957 8300; 166B Victoria St; mains $1025; hlunch & dinner) A long-established Italian
restaurant drawing a steady crowd of hungry
diners to its casual city location. There is a
giant selection of reasonably priced pasta and
pizzas, as well as many cakes and ice creams
to choose from at the front counter.
Wilkies Tavern (%4957 2241; cnr Victoria & Gregory
Sts; mains $15-25; hlunch & dinner) Recently renovated Wilkies is quite a posh restaurant and
lounge. Eat inside the lounge with dark red
walls or on the breezy balcony although it
can sound like an aviary up here with all the
parrots chirping from nearby trees. A small
but solid menu offers fresh fish, oysters and
meats as well as a large selection of starters
ask nicely and the chef may be able to turn
these into a main meal.
Pacinos on the Waterfront (%4957 8131; Mackay
Harbour, Mulherin Dr; mains $15-35; hlunch & dinner MonSat) This romantic Mediterranean restaurant

and bar is nestled among the warehouses of

the harbour and sports a breezy alfresco deck
overlooking the water. Seafood is the main
fare, served in abundant and tasty quantities,
but pasta and pizza are also prevalent.

Drinking & Entertainment

Gordis Caf & Bar (%4951 2611; 85 Victoria St) It may
be a caf by day, but the open windows facing Mackays main drag provide the perfect
vantage point to enjoy a cold beer. Things get
busier once evening kicks in with live music
and DJs upstairs (entry $5).
Satchmos at the Reef (%4955 6055; Mulherin Dr,
Mackay Harbour) Classy Satchmos dishes up wine,
tapas and style, but lends itself to a relaxed

QUEENSLAND

Mansell
Island

lonelyplanet.com

50 km
30 miles

384 W H I T S U N D AY C OA S T

386 W H I T S U N D AY C OA S T A r o u n d M a c k a y

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0

MACKAY

River St

Rd

St

St

Rive

r St

10 11

St

St
Tennyso
n

Alfred St

St

Gregory
St

St

East G
ord
on

St

Shakespe

are St

Queens
Park
St

Park St

To Illawong
Beach (6km)

Goldsmith

To Ocean
International
(3km)

Lawson

St

Victoria

Carlyle

To Mackay Visitor Information Centre (3km);

Peak Downs Hwy (3.5km); Train Station (6km);
Airport (6km); Stoney Creek Farmstay (28km);
Illawong Fauna Sanctuary (43km); Finch Hatton
(55km); Kinchant Dam (60km); Eungella National
Park (75km); Rockhampton (336km)

r St

Milton
St

Jubilee
Park

6
4

Porte
rS

1
A1

er
Riv
er

crowd. Boaties join other locals and tourists

here and live music is a regular feature on
Sunday afternoon.
Platinum Lounge (%4957 2220; 83 Victoria St) On
the 1st floor above the corner of Victoria and
Wood Sts, the Platinum Lounge is a good
place to unwind and to converse without
shouting. Wednesday and Thursday nights
are karaoke nights.

Queensland Rail (%1300 131 722) Tilt Train

connects Mackay with Brisbane ($220, 12
hours), Townsville ($105, 5 hours) and
Cairns ($175, 12 hours). The slower Sunlander
does the same: Brisbane (economy seat/sleeper
$150/205, 17 hours), Townsville (economy
seat/sleeper $125/125, 6 hours) and Cairns
($155/175, 12 hours). The train station is at
Paget, 5km south of the city centre.

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

Qantas (%13 13 13), Jetstar (%13 15 38) and Virgin

Blue (%13 67 89) all service Mackay. Flights
include Brisbane, Rockhampton, Townsville
and Sydney. The airport is 5km south of the
city centre.
Travelworld (%4944 2144; [email protected]
.au; h7am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7am-4pm Sat) handles all
transport arrangements and is located at the
Mackay Bus Terminal (cnr Victoria & Macallistar Sts),
where a 24-hour caf also sells bus tickets.
Greyhound Australia (%13 14 99) and Premier
Motor Service (%13 34 10) connect Mackay with
Cairns ($119, 12 hours), Townsville ($69, six
hours), Airlie Beach ($29, two hours) and
Brisbane ($139, 16 hours).

Avis (%4951 1266), Budget (%4951 1400) and Hertz

(%4951 3334) have counters at the airport.
Mackay Transit Coaches (%4957 3330) operates
local buses from two bus stops in town: at the
back of Canelands Shopping Centre, and from
the corner of Victoria and Gregory Sts. The
visitor information centres have timetables.
For a taxi, call Mackay Taxis (%13 10 08). Trips
to the airport, marina or train station cost
about $20.

AROUND MACKAY
Youre missing a great country Queensland
experience if you dont spend at least a couple
of days enjoying the sights west of Mackay.

Pioneer Valley
The Eungella Rd takes you through fertile
Pioneer Valley to Marian, where you can turn
off to Kinchant Dam and the fishing fraternitys Kinchant Waters Leisure Resort (%07-4954
1453; unpowered/powered sites $10/24, cabins $75). This
super-casual resort is ideal for families, with
canoes and aqua bikes for hire and oodles of
room. To get here, head out of Mackay 10km
on the Peak Downs Hwy to the Eungella Rd
turn-off then drive 29km along the Eungella
Rd to Marian, take the Eton turn-off, driving
10km to North Eton. Turn right at Kinchant
Dam Rd by the large chimney. Its 8km to
the dam.
Next stop is Finch Hatton Gorge. The turn-off
is 1.5km before the township of Finch Hatton.
It is 9km into the gorge and the last 3km are
on good, unsealed roads, but after heavy
rain creek crossings make access difficult
or impossible. Here you can try Forest Flying
(%07-4958 3359; www.forestflying.com; rides $45). Flyers
whiz around the rainforest canopy sitting in a
harness attached to a 340m-long cable. Keep
your eyes peeled for rainforest critters as you
brush through palm leaves and swing by the
fruit-bat colony (August to May). Definitely
book ahead.
More tranquil pursuits at the gorge include
a 1.6km rainforest walk to a fantastic swimming hole beneath Araluen Falls, or a 2.6km
walking trail to the Wheel of Fire Falls, and picnics at the car park. You can stay at Finch Hatton Gorge Cabins (%07-4958 3281; sites per person $8,
dm/d $15/80; a), set in enchanting subtropical
surrounds with a nearby creek.
A further 20km and you reach beautiful
Eungella National Park (young-gulla), meaning
land of clouds. Eungella has the oldest and
longest stretch of subtropical rainforest in
Australia and has been cut off from other
rainforest areas for roughly 30,000 years. It
breeds weird beasties that exist nowhere else,
such as the Eungella gastric brooding frog,
which incubates its eggs in its stomach and
gives birth by spitting out the tadpoles!
There are excellent rainforest walks signposted on the 5km road between Eungella
township and Broken River, but its the shy
platypus youll hope to see. They live at pretty
Broken River. You can be fairly sure of seeing platypuses most days from the viewing
platform near the bridge. The best times are
immediately after dawn and at dusk, but you
must be patient, still and silent. Rangers lead

W H I T S U N D AY C OA S T A i r l i e B e a c h 387

night walks that reveal the parks party animals; ask at the QPWS office.
Broken River Mountain Retreat (%07-4958 4528;
fax 4958 4564; d $80-125; as) has a range of lovely
cedar cabins, a wood-finished lounge and the
Platypus Lodge Restaurant & Bar (mains $20
to $25). Theres also the lovely QPWS Fern Flat
Camping Ground (per person/family $4/16), run on a
first-come, first-served basis, near the QPWS
office (%07-4958 4552; h8am-4pm) and kiosk.
Buses dont cover Finch Hatton or Eungella. Hire a car; you wont be sorry.

AIRLIE BEACH
%07 / pop 5000

The gateway to the Whitsunday Islands, Airlie

defies its relatively small size by humming
constantly to the tune of a party somewhere.
Days simmer with buzzing beer gardens before bubbling into jumping festivities in the
glut of bars, clubs, pubs and cafs. Backpackers tripping into town to embark on the mandatory Whitsunday cruise make the most of
it, but yachties and local holidaymakers also
congregate here. All this activity takes place
on the main drag, Shute Harbour Rd. Airlie
boasts an excellent range of accommodation,
and a glorious artificial lagoon, right on the
foreshore.

Information
Internet Centre (346 Shute Harbour Rd; per hr $2.50)
Internet access.
QPWS (%4946 7022; fax 4946 7023; cnr Shute Harbour
& Mandalay Rds; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) It has lots of
island camping info.
Whitsunday Bookings (%4948 2201; www
.whitsundaybookings.com.au; Shop 1, 346 Shute Harbour
Rd; h10am-6pm) Run by the effusive Tina, this is
the best travel agency in Airlie, and where to head for
unbiased advice on sailing, snorkelling and camping the
Whitsundays and Great Barrier Reef. Tina will explain the
different boats in fabulous detail, allowing you to really
figure out what type of trip you want to take, and wont
book you on a sail if the weather looks shoddy.
Whitsunday Visitor Information Centre (%1800
801 252; www.whitsundaytourism.com; Bruce Hwy,
Proserpine; h10am-6pm)

Activities
Sailing opportunities are plentiful (see p394
for details), but most trips visit a fringing
reef rather than the main Great Barrier Reef
as this is quite far offshore from Airlie. If you
have your heart set on snorkelling along the

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

N eb

o Rd

Showgrounds

Gordon

Peel St

Bru
A1 Hw ce
y

13

St

12

Nelson

Wellingt
on

To Blacks Beach (16km);

Eimeo (16km); Bucasia (16km);
Townsville (385km)

Pion
e

Victoria
St

Brisbane

e
ov
gr
an

To North Mackay (3.5km);

Angelos on the Marina (5.5km);
Mackay Marina (5.5km);
Pacinos on the Waterfront (5.5km);
Satchmos at the Reef (5.5km)

Forgan
Bridge

St

Caneland
Shopping
Centre

TRANSPORT
Buses to Stoney Creek.......12 C2
Mackay Bus Terminal.........13 B2
Mackay Transit Coaches....14 A2
Travelworld......................(see 13)

EATING
Bridge's Restaurant..............(see 5)
Sorbello's...............................8 B2
Wilkie's Tavern......................9 C2

Macaliste

14

DRINKING
Gordi's Caf & Bar.............10 C2
Platinium Lounge...............11 C2

Sydney

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Ambassador Hotel.............(see 5)
Artspace Mackay.................2 B3
Australian Hotel...................3 C2
Mackay Townhouse
Motel...............................4 C2

SLEEPING
Ambassador Hotel.................5 C2
Gecko's Rest..........................6 C2
Larrikin Lodge........................7 B3

Wood St

INFORMATION
QPWS Office.......................1 C2

500 m
0.3 miles

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388 W H I T S U N D AY C OA S T A i r l i e B e a c h

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reef, and arent going north to Cairns, then

it may be best to do a day trip by motorboat.
An Australian tourism eco-certified operator
Fantasea Adventure Cruising (%54946 5111; www
.fantasea.com.au; trips $176) runs trips out to Hardy
Reef in the Great Barrier Reef Marina Park.
The sheltered spot has snorkelling with
crystal-clear water and hundreds of colourful fish. The full day tours aboard the large,
high-speed air-con catamarans include buffet lunch and four hours snorkelling at the
reef. Non-swimmers can still enjoy the reefs
bounty from a semi-submersible vessel or
seated underwater viewing chamber. You can
add a dive to your daytrip for a total cost of
$276. Visit a travel agent to score stand-by
specials for as low as $99.

Paddling serenely in search of an island

with dolphins and turtles would have to
be one of the best ways to experience the
Whitsundays. Salty Dog Sea Kayaking (%4946
1388; www.saltydog.com.au; trips $125) offers guided
full-day tours and kayak rental. Other active
pursuits include tandem skydiving with Tandem Skydive Airlie Beach (%4946 9115; per person from
$250) and parasailing with Whitsunday Parasail
(%4948 0000; per person $65). Alternatively, straddle a quad bike (a four-wheeled motorcycle)
and go mental at top speed (if you dare) on
more than 10km of purpose-built tracks with
Quad Bike Bush Adventures (%4946 1020; www.bush
adventures.com.au; 385 Sugarloaf Rd, Sugarloaf; from $70).
The company also offers horse riding and
combo packages that include horse riding

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

DETOUR STONEY CREEK FARMSTAY

Readers rave about Stoney Creek Farmstay (%07-4954 1177; Peak Downs Hwy; sites/dm/cottages
$20/20/120), a hospitable farm offering a rare bush experience with horse riding ($60), cattle
mustering ($65), and billy tea and damper smokos. A beautifully crafted cedar cottage for two has
a quaint veranda. Shower in the open air or stroll to your private swimming hole. The backpacker
bunkhouse is basic, but a good-value three-day package ($240) includes meals and activities. If you
participate in at least one trail ride during your stay, dorms are just $15 per night. Ride two days
and get a free night in the dorms. A bus from Shell City Cabs service station (%07-4944 4922;
cnr Victoria & Tennyson Sts, Mackay; $12) heads 28km southwest of Mackay to the pick-up point.

and quad biking ($199) or biking and jet skiing ($99) for a super adrenalin rush.

Sleeping
BUDGET

Magnums Backpackers (%1800 624 634, 4946 6266;

0
0

AIRLIE BEACH

Shu
te

Ha 10
r bo
ur
Rd

16

12
co

23
8

Co

22

7267; www.backpackersbythebay.com; 12 Hermitage Dr; dm/d

$26/62; ais) Tucked away from crowded

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Boathaven
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21 13

17 7

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24 18

20

19

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11

Begley St

This boisterous favourite in Airlies core is

akin to a bacchanal resort. Pool tables, bars,
a club and activities such as wet T-shirt contests and mechanical bull riding give it an always lively, sometimes raucous vibe. Cheaper
dorms are closer to the bar and all of the action, while newer digs blend with a tropical setting the further you go away from the
street. The attached bar and nightclub (p393)
are tremendously popular, with revellers usually spilling out onto the sidewalk.
Backpackers by the Bay (%1800 646 994, 4946

Airlie Bay

Airlie
Lagoon

To Abel Point Marina (1.3km);

Cannonvale (1.8km);
Shingley Beach Resort (1.8km);
Proserpine (35km);
Whitsunday Visitor Information
Centre (35km)

14
To Island View
B&B (300m)

INFORMATION
Internet Centre........................(see 11)
Whitsunday Bookings...................1 B1

ENTERTAINMENT
Mama Africa's............................20 B1
TRANSPORT
Airlie Beach Budget Autos..........21
Long-Distance Bus Stop.............22
Whitsunday Transit Bus Stop..... 23
Whitsunday Transit Bus Stop......24

C2
D2
C2
B1

Dr

EATING
Airlie Supermarket.....................10 C2
Armada Lounge Bar....................11 B1

DRINKING
Beaches......................................17 B2
Magnum's.................................(see 7)
Morocco's..................................18 B1
Paddy Shenanigans.....................19 B1

Shute Harbour, this tidy and quiet backpackers

occupies a grand hill-top lookout. The atmosphere focuses on friendliness and fun. Dorms
are spacious with just four beds. Doubles and
twins provide added options. Reception closes
at 7.30pm, so booking ahead is recommended
if you may be checking in late.
MIDRANGE & TOP END

ge

SLEEPING
Airlie Beach Hotel........................3 C2
Airlie Beach Motor Lodge............4 A2
Airlie Waterfront B&B...................5 B1
Backpackers by the Bay................6 D3
Downtown Airlie........................(see 1)
Magnum's Backpackers................7 B2
Whitehaven Beachfront Holiday
Units........................................8 C2
Whitsunday Organic B&B............9 A2

15
6

it a
rm
He

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Oz Adventure Sailing...................2 C2

Caper's at the Beach Bar & Grill...12 C2

Cappa's Cake & Ale....................13 C2
Deja Vue.....................................14 C3
Extreme Bean Espresso Bar.........(see 1)
OnAqua Restaurant & Bar......... 15 D3
Village Deli.................................16 B2

www.magnums.com.au; 366 Shute Harbour Rd; dm $16-19, d

& tw $49; ai) Welcome to the jungle baby!

To Island Gateway Holiday Resort (1km);

QPWS (3km); Whitsunday Airport (6km);
Flametree Tourist Village (6km);
Shute Harbour (12km)

Downtown Airlie (%4948 0599; www.downtownairlie

.com; 346 Shute Harbour Rd; apt $110-220; a) Stylish yet
affordable, this place above Whitsunday Bookings is in the heart of Airlie Beach and offers
budget and midrange travellers the convenience of a backpackers with the amenities of
a hotel. Choose from one- or two-bedroom
apartments done up in a retro-modern style
thats not exactly posh yet still appealing think
bright blue tiled floors, oversized suede chairs
and flat-screen TVs (free Austar and movies) in
the living room, and less appealing cinderblock

walls and no nonsense twins and queens in the

rather sparse bedroom. There is wi-fi access;
prices are determined by season and demand.
Airlie Beach Hotel (%1800 466 233, 4964 1999; www
.airliebeachhotel.com.au; cnr the Esplanade & Coconut Grove;
r from $119; as) This sleek hotel is superbly

located and has a range of accommodation

options. There are comfy motel-style rooms
near the pool and spacious suites with great
sea views in the modern high-rise. Facilities
for those with disabilities are good and there
are a couple of restaurants at street level.
oWhitsunday Organic B&B (%4946 7151;
www.whitsundaybb.com.au; 8 Lamond St; s/d incl breakfast
$120/165) Longing for a place that will turn an

ordinary night of slumber into a restorative

nocturnal Shangri-la? Inside this stylish ecofriendly B&B, polished natural wood floors
lead to upmarket, intimate rooms that unburden and soothe. Quality mattresses and
linens plus unique bathrooms add to the inviting ambience. Enjoy a wonderful all-organic
breakfast or dinner at the beautifully crafted
common table. Then afterwards, do a little
yoga, get a massage (or both) while letting the
sea hold your gaze trance-like, putting your
entire mood at ease.
Shingley Beach Resort (%4948 8300; www.shingley
beachresort.com; 1 Shingley Dr; studios from $140; as)

Less than 50m from the waterfront, these midrange self-sufficient holiday apartments are
a 10-minute walk (via the coastal walkway)
to Abel Point Marina and feature superior
views perfect for families looking for a little
more space. Not one but two saltwater pools
enhance the generous guest amenities.
Island View B&B (%4946 4505; www.islandviewbb
.com.au; 19 Nara Ave; d incl breakfast from $120; as)

Wake up to gorgeous hill-top views and

tropical breakfasts from the king or poolside
rooms at this tranquil spot where you experience a more peaceful side of Airlie. The
bustle of Shute Harbour is far enough below

QUEENSLAND

rlie Cres
Ai

200 m
0.1 miles

Av e

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r
wate
B r o ad

5
n St
Mazli

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lonelyplanet.com

W H I T S U N D AY C OA S T 391

THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Taking the Temperature of the Barrier Reef

Larger than the Great Wall of China and the only living thing visible from space, the Great Barrier
Reef is one of the seven wonders of the natural world. The spectacular kaleidoscope of colour
stretches along the Queensland seaboard from south of the tropic of Capricorn to Torres Strait,
south of New Guinea. Its the planets biggest reef system, where 2900 separate reefs form an outer
ribbon parallel to the coast. One BBC TV programme rated it second only to the Grand Canyon
on a list of 50 Places To See Before You Die. Did we mention its pretty ace?

I hear the Great Barrier Reef has been under threat lately. Whats the story? Coral polyps need a water
temperature of 17.5 to 28C to grow and cant tolerate too much sediment. There are three main
threats to the reef: land-based pollutants, over-fishing and global warming. Global warming causes
parts of the worlds oceans to overheat, and the rise in temperature bleaches the reef. As the
brightly coloured living polyps die, only the white skeletons remain. Pollution has also poisoned
some coral, plus some questions persist about the long-term effects of crown-of-thorns starfish.
Some environmentalists and scientists predict that under current conditions, coral cover within
the reef may be reduced to less than 5% by 2050. Because all the living organisms in the reef
are symbiotic, the diverse ecosystem we see today may be gone forever.

At a Glance
Length: 2300km, from north of Bundaberg to Torres Strait
Width: 80km at its broadest
Distance from shore: 300km in the south, 30km in the north
Age: estimated between 600,000 and 18 million years old (contentious)

From Little Polyps, Mighty Reefs Grow

An industrious family of tiny animals, the coral polyp is responsible for creating the Great Barrier
Reef and other reefs. All corals are primitive hollow sacs with tentacles on the top, but it is the hard
corals that are the architects and builders. These corals excrete a small amount of limestone as an
outer skeleton that protects and supports their soft bodies. As polyps die and new ones grow on
top, their billions of skeletons cement together into an ever-growing natural bulwark.
Different polyps form varying structures, from staghorn and brain patterns to flat plate or table
corals. However, they all need sunlight, so few grow deeper than 30m below the surface. The corals
skeletons are white, while the reefs kaleidoscopic colours come from the living polyps.
One of the most spectacular sights on the Great Barrier Reef occurs for a few nights after a full
moon in late spring or early summer, when vast numbers of corals spawn. With tiny bundles of sperm
and eggs visible to the naked eye, the event resembles a gigantic underwater snowstorm.

Did You Know?

Marine environments, including coral reefs, demonstrate the greatest biodiversity of any ecosystems
on earth much more so than rainforests. The Great Barrier Reef is home to marine mammals
such as whales, dolphins and dugongs (sea cows). With new varieties still being found, its flora
and fauna also includes:
1500 species of fish
400 types of coral
4000 breeds of clams and other molluscs
800 echinoderms, including sea cucumbers
500 varieties of seaweed
200 bird species
1500 different sponges
six types of turtle.

Whats being done? Fortunately its not all doom and gloom. In July 2004, the Australian Government introduced new laws that increased no-take zones, where it is forbidden to remove animal
or plant life (eg no fishing), to 33.33% of the reef (it was previously only 4.5%). The Queensland
Government also unveiled the Great Barrier Reef Coast Marine Park, a state park encompassing the
actual coastline from just north of Bundaberg to the tip of Cape York a total of 3600km. And
collectively the Federal and Queensland governments have launched a Reef Water Quality Protection Plan in an effort to deal with land-based pollutants. Although it will be several years before
the success of these plans can be measured, they are certainly a huge step towards tackling the
human-induced threats to the reef. On a micro level, the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority
(%07-4750 0700; Reef HQ bldg, 2-68 Flinders St East, Townsville) looks after the welfare of most of the reef.
It monitors bleaching and other problems and works to enforce the reefs no-take zones.
Is there any way I can help? Sure. Take all litter with you, even biodegradable material like apple
cores. Admire, but dont touch or harass, marine animals and be aware that if you touch or walk
on coral youll damage it (it can also create some very nasty cuts).
Whats the best way to see some coral? Obviously, snorkelling and diving will get you up close
and personal. However, you can also view fish and coral from a glass-bottomed boat, a semisubmersible boat or an underwater observatory. Tour operators are listed throughout this book.
You can also ask the Marine Park Authority for advice, or visit its Reef HQ aquarium in Townsville
(p399) to see a living coral reef without leaving dry land.
And what wildlife can I realistically hope to see? Apart from all the psychedelically patterned tropical
fish, theres the chance to swim with manta rays, squid, turtles and more.
Any creatures to beware of? Theres nothing to be too alarmed about, but make sure you avoid
scorpion fish, stonefish and jellyfish (see the boxed text, p372). No reef shark has ever attacked
a diver, and while sea snakes are venomous, their fangs are at the back of their mouths, making
them of little threat to humans.
Well, thats reassuring and it all sounds quite wonderful, so where do I go? Its said you could dive
here every day of your life and still not see the entire Great Barrier Reef. Individual areas vary from
time to time, depending on the weather or any recent damage, but places to start include:

Sorting the Reef from the Cays

Cairns the most common choice, so rather over-trafficked (p425)

Reefs fall into three categories: barrier or ribbon reefs, platform reefs and fringing reefs.
The barrier reef proper lies on the outer, seaward edge of the reef system, lining the edge of
the continental shelf in an often-unbroken formation.
Platform reefs grow on the land side of these barrier reefs and often support coral cay islands.
These occur when the reef grows above sea level; dead coral is ground down by water action to
form sand, and sometimes vegetation takes root. Many famous islands eg Green Island near Cairns,
Heron Island off Gladstone and Lady Musgrave Island north of Bundaberg are coral cays.
Closer to shore youll find fringing reefs surrounding the hillier, continental islands. Great Keppel,
most of the Whitsundays, Hinchinbrook and Dunk, for example, were once the peaks of mainland
coastal ranges, but rising sea levels submerged most of these mountains, leaving only the tips
exposed. Today these are good places to spot coral close to the beach. Fringing reefs also border
the mainland in places, such as near Bundaberg.

Cape Tribulation a couple of small operators have started capitalising on close proximity to

the reef; a good launching pad for those wanting to experience snorkelling trips without the
hordes (p451)
Fitzroy Reef Lagoon untouched for years, tourist numbers are still limited (p369)
Heron Island popular diving resort where its wise to book ahead (p368)
Lady Elliot Island shipwrecks and gorgeous coral (p367)
Lizard Island superb diving at the Cod Hole (p459)
Port Douglas gateway to the Low Isles and the Agincourt Reefs (p447)
Yongala shipwreck one of Australias best, off Townsville (p400).

For more information, see Lonely Planets Diving & Snorkelling Australias Great Barrier Reef.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

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392 W H I T S U N D AY C OA S T A i r l i e B e a c h

to guarantee a restful sleep. The owners are

friendly and full of local tips.
Airlie Waterfront B&B (%4946 7631; www.airlie
waterfrontbnb.com.au; cnr Broadwater Ave & Mazlin St; r from
$239; a) Superbly presented and opulently

furnished with antiques, this is a lovely relaxing selection still close to all the action. Unwind in one of two double rooms that feature
their own private spas.
Also recommended:
Airlie Beach Motor Lodge (%1800 810 925, 4946
6418; www.airliebeachmotorlodge.com.au; 6 Lamond St; d
from $116; as) A quiet motel just a short walk from
Shute Harbour Rd.
Whitehaven Beachfront Holiday Units (%4946
5710; [email protected]; 285 Shute Harbour
Rd; r from $120; a) Clean and cosy, centrally located
self-contained studio apartments with beachfront and
lagoon access.
CAMPING

.islandgateway.com.au; Shute Harbour Rd, Jubilee Pocket;

unpowered/powered sites $24/30, cabins $65-135; as)

has shady sites and cabins 1.5km from town,

while Flametree Tourist Village (%4946 9388; www
.flametreevillage.com.au; Shute Harbour Rd; unpowered/
powered sites $19/25, cabins from $66; as) is in a

lovely, bird-filled ecological sanctuary, bordering a national park.

Eating
Some of Airlies best eateries are tucked into
hotels and B&Bs. The following are just a
sampling; browse Shute Harbour Rd and the
streets around it for dozens more.
Extreme Bean Espresso Bar (%4948 2283; 346 Shute
Harbour Rd; coffee $4-5, mains $8-15; hbreakfast & lunch)

Airlies favourite coffee shop serves the bean

any way you please, although our favourite
is the frapp, which comes in a variety of flavours including a yummy vanilla. If youre in
the mood for food, try the eggs Benedict (part
of an all-day big breakfast) or one of the specials scrawled on the blackboard everything
is made with local produce and herbs. You can
grab a current newspaper from the rack and
dine in, or order your drink and muffin to go.
Village Deli (%4964 1121; 351 Shute Harbour Rd;
mains $10-15; h8am-5.30pm) Our favourite deli
in Airlie serves delicious overstuffed sandwiches, mixed salads, fabulous coffee (and
equally great chai) and some kick-arse light
meals (like perfectly grilled barramundi that
tastes beyond heavenly) in casual alfresco

(but covered) caf environs. Come early as

the place is popular enough to run out of
many options early on everything is freshly
made each day. Takeaway provisions and picnic boxes are a speciality.
Dj Vue (%4948 4309; Waters Edge Resort, 4 Golden
Orchid Dr; lunch $15-25, dinner $25-40; hlunch & dinner TueSat) This perennial favourite recently moved

to a gorgeous hill-top location at the swanky

Waters Edge Resort. In an airy Polynesianstyle thatched building with a romantic (and
nearly always full) patio overlooking an infinity pool, the new Dj Vue is cooler than ever.
The menu promises modern interpretations
of Thai, Mediterranean, Indian and others,
and the execution and presentation is faultless. The warm Indian lamb rubbed in dry
spices is sensational. Book ahead for alfresco
dinner dining amid tiki torches, candles and
faraway ocean views. Sunday brunch is a must.
The eight-course meal (just $31.50) starts at
noon and is accompanied by live music and
champagne its spread out over a few hours
to give your belly time to rest.
Capers at the Beach Bar & Grill (%4964 1777; Airlie
Beachfront Hotel, the Esplanade; mains $15-30) Matthew
McConnaghey and Kate Hudson put this place
on the global map in 2007 when they spent
a boozy day eating and partying at the hotel
lounge and grill. Its a big boxy room thats
at once informal and formal think plump
couches around tables with white linen. The
patio has water views. The menu features lots
of fresh seafood along with steaks, cheese and
a mouth-watering array of desserts. Its won its
share of local awards for food and service.
oOnAqua Restaurant & Bar (%4948 2782;
Waterfront Whitsunday B&B, 438 Shute Harbour Rd; mains
$20-30; hlunch & dinner) By candlelight, murmurs

of conversations resolve into a soothing chant

as tastebuds tango at this small and intimate
restaurant overlooking a sapphire-blue pool
and the Coral Sea beyond. To describe the
menu here as simply food is an injustice.
This is gastro par excellence, a multidish
journey through modern Australian cuisine.
Service is efficiently attentive but unobtrusive just enough space between courses to
pause for savouring and superlatives. OnAqua
oozes taste in more ways than one but is not
pretentious.
Armada Lounge Bar (%4948 1600; 350 Shute Harbour
Rd; hfrom 6pm) You can dine upstairs and outdoors under a rippling canopy at smooth and
classy Armada, a big city lounge with loads of

lonelyplanet.com

sophisticated drinks as well as sublime meals

to wash them down. There is a sultry, stylish
mix of Japanese and Balinese dcor, and dim
lighting sets a romantic vibe. Food is well presented and flavour packed, and the menu offers everything from kangaroo to barramundi
to plenty of options for vegetarians.
Also recommended:
Airlie Supermarket (277 Shute Harbour Rd) For selfcaterers.

Cappas Cake & Ale (%4946 5033; Pavilion Arcade;

mains $6-20) Tucked in alley behind Shute Harbour Rd in
central Airlie, it has heaps of breakfast options, real bagels
and great sandwiches and cocktails.

Drinking & Entertainment

Airlie has no shortage of places to cut loose.
Besides the places listed below, the backpacker crowd gravitates towards mega-bars
Moroccos and Beaches, both on Shute Harbour Rd.
Mama Africas (%4948 0438; 263 Shute Harbour Rd)
Its a shame this club, next to Panache on
the Beach restaurant, doesnt open earlier;
its such a cool spot to just chill out. With its
zebra-striped floor, tribal motifs, kick-back
lounge chairs and a vibe that taps straight into
your pulse, its no wonder Mamas rocks.
Paddy Shenanigans (%4946 5055; 366 Shute Harbour
Rd) Another favourite on the backpacker party
circuit, Paddy Shenanigans serves drunken revellers well into the night. American heartthrob
Matthew McConnaghey had his own shenanigans here in 2007 when he spent a night dirty
dancing with other travellers (he was in town
filming the adventure flick Fools Gold).
Magnums (%4946 6266; Shute Harbour Rd) Attached to the hostel, this sizable pub offers
punters a sea of outdoor seating at which they
happily consume vast amounts of alcohol. The
crowd is generally young and spirited and its
a great place to meet other travellers.

Getting There & Around

The closest major airports are at Proserpine
and on Hamilton Island. The small Whitsunday
airport (%4946 9933) is about 6km southeast of
town; see right for flight details.
Greyhound Australia (%13 14 99) and Premier
Motor Service (%13 34 10) have bus connections
to Brisbane ($155, 18 hours), Mackay ($29,
2 hours), Townsville ($54, five hours) and
Cairns ($95, 11 hours). Con-X-ion (%1300 308 718;
www.con-x-ion.com; adult/child one way $50/26) connects
Mackay airport and Mackay bus terminal with

W H I T S U N D AY C OA S T W h i t s u n d a y I s l a n d s 393

Airlie Beach twice a day. The long-distance

bus terminal is just off the Esplanade.
Locally, Whitsunday Transit (%4946 1800) connects Proserpine (Proserpine Airport), Cannonvale, Abel Point, Airlie Beach and Shute
Harbour. Buses operate from 6am to 10.30pm
and stop along Shute Harbour Rd.
There are car rental companies are along
Shute Harbour Rd. Try Airlie Beach Budget Autos
(%4948 0300; 285 Shute Harbour Rd).

WHITSUNDAY ISLANDS
Nearly every outdoor-loving Australian
dreams of soaking up the rays and reef from
the deck of a yacht cruising the Whitsundays
aqua waters; luckily there are about 60 companies, along with a number of private charters,
ready to make your dream come true (see
p394). The blue-green waterways surrounding
these islands are part of a marine park and fall
within the Great Barrier Reef World Heritage
Area that stretches from Cape York in the
north to Bundaberg in the south. Were all
responsible for preserving this natural wonderland for generations to enjoy, so you may
kiss the fish if you can catch them, but dont
feed them, and please dont pet the coral.
The Whitsundays is a drowned landscape
these continental islands are the tips of mountains fringed with coral. The Great Barrier
Reef is at least 60km from the mainland.
There are more than 90 islands, most of which
are uninhabited.
All but four of the islands are predominantly or completely national park, but most
visitors come to stay at the resorts scattered
throughout the archipelago, where cheap
package holidays can be booked in advance.
GETTING THERE & AWAY

Jetstar (%13 15 38) connects Hamilton Island

with Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne. QantasLink (%13 13 13) flies there from Cairns.
Hamilton and Lindeman islands have airports. Island Air Taxis (%4946 9933; Shute Harbour Rd;
h7.45am-5.30pm) offers flights to both Hamilton and Lindeman Islands ($60 one way per
adult from Airlie Beach). Air Whitsunday Seaplanes
(%4946 9111) flies from Airlie Beach to Daydream, Long and South Molle Islands for $450
per flight. You can also fly direct to Hamilton
Island from Brisbane, Cairns, Sydney and Melbourne it is also one of the airport options
available with the Aussie Airpass from Qantas, which makes getting to the Whitsundays

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

Island Gateway Holiday Resort (%4946 6228; www

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When the weather is cooperating, sailing in the Whitsundays can be about as dreamy as it gets.
What is not so dreamy is figuring out which boat to sail. There is a bamboozling array of sailing
tours that supply professional crews and catering. Walk down Airlies main drag and youll be assaulted by signed specials: Two-night sailing trips just $179, includes free dive! Dont book the
first thing you see, however. Its better to spend a little time with an unbiased travel agency and
figure out what kind of boat best fits your needs and budgets. In this industry, the adage you
get what you pay for fits like a glove and price is usually a good indication of quality. Cheaper
companies generally have crowded boats, bland food and cramped quarters. Unfortunately no
matter what price bracket you go with, bed bugs can be a reality.
The usual package is three days/two nights really just two days as trips depart in the afternoon
of the first day and return early on the third.
Most companies offer a considerably lower stand-by rate for last minute bookings, so its actually
best not to book ahead unless you have your heart set on a particular boat and date.
Be sure to check the weather before you commit. An honest travel agency shouldnt book you
on a trip if they know its going to rain for days, but its best to do your own research just in case.
This author spent three miserable rainy days on a ship because she didnt take her own advice. In
the summer it is common to get two or three good days followed by an afternoon of thunderstorms
and rain through the night (although it usually clears by the morning). If a storm system settles
over the islands, however, rain can last for days.
There are nearly 60 sailing operators in Airlie Beach alone, but only six actually visit the Great
Barrier Reef itself. This isnt necessarily a bad thing, as most vessels follow the fringing reef and
Whitsunday Islands hopping route, which is pretty spectacular in its own right. Plus snorkelling
along the fringing reef is as good, if not better (the fish are confined to a smaller space), than
the real thing. Divers not able to visit the main reef elsewhere may want to book one of the trips
visiting Bait Reef you just cant match the Great Barrier Reefs coral and tunnels. Reaching Bait
Reef requires 1 hours of sailing across open water, which can make for really rough going if
the winds are blowing. Definitely take seasickness tablets. Boats wont make the trip if its too
windy, so even booking a vessel that travels out to the main reef isnt a 100% guarantee that
youll get there.
Once youve figured out what boat youd like to sail on, youll need to book through a travel
agency like Whitsunday Bookings (%4948 2201; www.whitsundaybookings.com.au; Shop 1, 346 Shute
Harbour Rd) or a management company like Oz Adventure Sailing (%1800 359 554; www.aussiesailing
.com.au). Both can sell berths on most vessels and will offer the same stand-by rates.
Expect to pay about $50 more than the prices quoted below on reef taxes and required
stinger suit rentals.

(2-night trips $380-459) This 18m beauty carries 26 passengers and has huge amounts
of deck space for sunbathing. The only negative is sleeping can be a bit tight. The Avatar has
a reputation as an upmarket singles boat thats lots of fun. Choose from a shared berth or
camping ashore one of the Whitsunday islands tents provided.

Avatar

Pride of Airlie

(2-night trips $300) The original party boat, the Pride of Airlie is still exactly that: a

raucous booze cruise popular with young backpackers. It carries 70 people and is good if you
want to party but suffer from seasickness both nights are spent on land, you sleep in dorms
at a hostel on South Molle Island.

(2-night trips from $179) This boat company has the monopoly on cheap backpacker
sailing trips, which is why we mention them, but weve gotten numerous complaints about
the quality of the trips overcrowded in a small boat. Unless you are on a super-tight budget
its best to upgrade to a better ship.

Tallarook 3

(www.australiantallships.com; overnight trips up to $300) Trips are for one night,

but they depart at 9.30am and dont return until 4.30pm the following day so you actually
get nearly as much sailing as the two-night trips. With prices often hovering around $279, the
Tall Ship is nearly as cheap as the Tallarook and much better quality. Built in 1896, the 35mlong Tall Ship carries just 27 passengers and has lots of space.

Tall Ship Defender

super-convenient when you are on a tight

schedule.
Fantasea Ferries (%07-4946 5111; www.fantasea
.com.au) has return fares to Hamilton Island or
Daydream Island (adult/child $60/30), and
Long Island or South Molle Island ($44/22)
via high-speed catamaran you can buy
tickets at the airport. Ferries depart from the
pier at 11 Shute Harbour Rd. Tickets can be
purchased at the airport on Hamilton Island,
resorts or directly from the pier on the mainland at Airlie Beach. Think about not flying
into Hamilton Island if you are planning on
staying at Airlie Beach as it will add another
$120 on to your ticket price to get from the
airport and back via the ferry, which is your
only option to get to the mainland.

Long Island
Theres good rainforest here the island is
nearly all national park with 13km of walking tracks and some fine lookouts. The island
is about 11km long and not much more than
1.5km wide, but its big enough to house three
resorts and a QPWS camping ground (per person/
family $4/16) in seclusion.
Peppers Palm Bay (%1800 095 025, 07-4946 9233;
www.peppers.com.au/palmbay; d $380-680; as) is
a peaceful, boutique resort thats devoid of
pesky distractions such as TV and telephones,
and consists of indulgent Thai-style cabins,
snuggled onto the shore of idyllic Palm Bay.
Rates include a sumptuous breakfast hamper.
Check for standby rates.
The slightly cheaper option is the well-used
Club Croc (%1800 075 125, 07-4946 9400; www.clubcroc
.com.au; d incl all meals $240-368; as), which has
fairly austere rooms that cater to couples and
families.

South Molle Island

The largest of the Molle group at 4 sq km,
South Molle is virtually joined to Mid Molle
and North Molle Islands. It has long stretches
of beach, is known for its spectacular bird
life and is crisscrossed by 15km of wonderful
walking tracks. The highest point is Mt Jeffreys (198m), but the climb up Spion Kop is
also worthwhile. South Molle is mainly part
of a national park and theres a QPWS camping
ground (per person/family $4/16) in the north, where
the boats come in.
Popular with families, South Molle Island Resort (%1800 075 080, 07-4946 9433; www.southmolleis
land.com.au; d with/without meals from $360/260; as)

W H I T S U N D AY C OA S T W h i t s u n d a y I s l a n d s 395

has spectacular views and children are well

catered for. At high tide the jetty is one of the
prettiest around.

Hook Island
The second-largest of the Whitsundays at 53
sq km, Hook Island is mainly national park
and blessed with great beaches and camping
grounds. It also boasts some of the best diving
and snorkelling locations in the Whitsundays.
Crayfish Beach (sites per person $4.50) is a gorgeous
camping spot with just 12 secluded sites.
Bookings are essential through QPWS.
Hook Island Wilderness Resort (%07-4946 9380;
www.hookislandresort.com; sites per person $25, dm $20-35,
d with/without bathroom $130/90; as) is basic, but

its also the cheapest resort in the Whitsundays. The simple units have tiny bathrooms
and theres a licensed restaurant (mains $14 to
$18) that serves seafood, steak and pasta.

Whitsunday Island
Whitsunday Island is food for the soul. The
largest of the Whitsundays, this island covers
109 sq km and rises to 438m at Whitsunday Peak. On its southeast coast, 6km-long
Whitehaven Beach is the longest and finest
beach in the group (some say in the country),
with good snorkelling off its southern end.
Everyone day-trips to Whitehaven Beach, but
its magic to linger overnight.
Perhaps the most celebrated view of all the
Whitsundays comes from here looking up
from Hill Inlet on Tongue Point down towards pristine Whitehaven Beach.
There are QPWS camping grounds (per person/
family $4/16) at Dugong, Sawmill, Naris and
Joes Beaches in the west, and at Turtle Bay
and Chance Bay in the south; at the southern
end of Whitehaven Beach; and Peter Bay in
the north.

Daydream Island
Tiny Daydream Island, about 1km long and
500m wide, is the nearest island resort to
Shute Harbour. Its a popular day-trip destination, with a wide range of water-sports
gear available for hire (free for resort guests);
water-skiing is also big here.
Daydream Island Resort & Spa (%1800 075 040,
07-4948 8488; www.daydream.net.au; 6-night packages
$690; as) is surrounded by beautifully

landscaped tropical gardens with a fish-filled

lagoon running through it. This large resort
also has tennis courts, a gym, catamarans,

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

SAILING THE WHITSUNDAYS

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396 W H I T S U N D AY C OA S T B o w e n

lonelyplanet.com

SLEEPING UNDER THE STARS: CAMPING ON THE WHITSUNDAYS

Do you want to get stranded on a real tropical desert island, Survivor-style? Go camping. Starry
nights, sandy beaches, solitude its a fabulous way to experience the Whitsundays. To camp
you will need to be fully self-sufficient and leave behind only footprints.
To organise your trip, visit the excellent QPWS office (p387) for permits (per person/family $4/16)
and advice. If you want to book transport and camping together (ie a boat that will drop you
off and pick you up) then head to Whitsunday Bookings (%07-4948 2201; www.whitsundaybookings
.com) or ring Island Camping Connections (%07-4946 5255).
Most people stay around three nights, so weve quoted prices for this length. These rates include
any necessary park permits and return transport. Make sure you research where you are going
to stay and for how long you will be pretty much stuck where you are dropped off. Note that
camping grounds are occasionally closed to minimise the impact on the environment.
Options include the following:

(per person $120) This long white beach backed by turquoise water is picture perfect, which is why youll have to share it with hundreds of other tourists by day. Still,
its big enough to find a little solitude. Camping is on the southern tip.

Whitehaven Beach

(per person $150) In Osprey Bay off Hook Island this is a fabulous place to camp
if snorkelling is on your agenda there is good fringing reef just offshore thats really protected from currents. No commercial day trips visit this nook in the Whitsundays, so it is as
quiet as it gets.

Crayfish Beach

windsurfers and three swimming pools. There

are five grades of accommodation and most
package deals include a buffet breakfast.
Theres also a kids club.

numbers of grass trees make striking photographs and the view from Mt Oldfield (210m)
is grand.
Club Med Resort (%1800 258 2633, 07-4946 9333;

Hamilton Island

www.clubmed.com; packages per person per night $215-310;

as) is a popular and very fun option. It has

Hamilton Island Resort (%1800 075 110, 07-4946

9999; www.hamiltonisland.com.au; d $265-550) runs this
island, the busiest in the Whitsundays. Its
more like a town than a resort and the heavy
development isnt everyones cup of tea. It
does, however, provide an airport, marina,
restaurants, bars, shops and a huge range of
accommodation and activities. Self-catering
is an option here and children will be well
catered for.
Hamilton is an appealing day trip from
Shute Harbour, and you can use some of the
resorts facilities see p393 for transport
details.

Lindeman Island
Its a bit of a hike to southerly Lindeman
(which is mostly national park), but the rewards are lots of secluded bays and 20km
of impressive walking trails. Tremendous

its own launch that connects with flights from

the airport at Hamilton Island.
There is also a QPWS camping ground (per
person/family $4/16).

BOWEN

QUEENSLAND

Flagstaff hill. It serves delicious fresh food

with stunning 360-degree views.
Long-distance buses stop outside Bowen
Travel (%4786 2835; 40 Williams St). Greyhound Australia
(%13 14 99) has services to/from Rockhampton
($97, eight hours), Airlie Beach ($29, 1 hours)
and Townsville ($45, three hours).
The Queensland Rail (%1300 131 722) Sunlander and Tilt Train stop at Bootooloo Siding, 3km south of the centre. For an economy
sleeper/seat on the Sunlander, the fare from
Brisbane is $260/160.

NORTH COAST
The outback meets the tropics on Queenslands North Coast. Townsville, the states
second-largest city, is a relaxed place with a
waterfront caf scene and an affable population. Offshore sits exquisite and accessible
Magnetic Island, with unpopulated beaches
and excellent bushwalking. The waters between its forested bulk and the mainland teem
with fish and coral that form part of the Great
Barrier Reef. Little islands abound; some uninhabited, some sacred (such as Magnetic Island to the Wulgurukaba Aboriginal people)
and many are at least partly national park.
As you leave the coast and head towards
the interior, the terrain becomes sunburnt
and immense. The overwhelming dry is compensated for by the mountains of the Great
Dividing Range, which run parallel with the
coast and form part of the precious World
Heritagelisted Wet Tropics Area.
The North Coast is a prime holiday stretch
so inevitably accommodation prices escalate
during tourist high season (June to October);
expect prices quoted here to spike.

%07 / pop 11,505

TOWNSVILLE

Bowen has some gorgeous beaches, including the popular Horseshoe and Rose Bays.
The only hotel in town is the upmarket Rose
Bay Resort (%4786 2402; www.rosebayresort.com.au; 2
Pandanus St, Rose Bay; apt $130-185; as). It offers
well-appointed (they are nicer inside than
out) studio, one- and two-bedroom beachfront apartments with good swimming, snorkelling and fishing in the gorgeous coral sea
right at your doorstep.
For dining try the locally recommended
Three Sixty on the Hill (%4786 6360; Margaret Reynolds Dr; mains $8-25; hlunch & dinner) at the top of

%07 / pop 160,000

Neat Queenslanders both houses and residents inhabit this upwardly mobile city
straddling the coast and the outback. Even
with its sprinkling of cosmopolitan cafs and
boutiques, Townsville still feels like a big
country town surrounded by pink hills from
which sky-high sunsets plunge into a scaleddown Riviera dotted with water craft. Locals
scoot around on mopeds while travellers
navigate their mobile motor homes around
the orderly streetscapes. The population is
also boosted by a large contingent of students

N O R T H C OA S T T o w n s v i l l e 397

and army corps, being one of the largest army

bases in the country. A shyer version of Cairns
with its sweeping waterfront esplanade, decent
museums and thriving nightlife, Townsville
is also the jumping-off point to the Yongala
shipwreck, one of Australias top dive sites.

Orientation
Red-rock Castle Hill (290m) presides over
Townsville. Ross Creek winds about the city
centre, which lies on the north side of the
creek over the Dean St Bridge and pedestrianonly Victoria Bridge. The city centre is easy
to get around on foot.
Flinders St Mall, the shopping precinct,
stretches to the left from the northern side
of Dean Bridge, towards the train station. To
the right of the bridge is Flinders St East, lined
with many of the towns oldest buildings, plus
eateries and nightclubs. Across Ross Creek,
Palmer St has a movie-set feel with cafs, bars
and hotels. Magnetic Island departures take
off from the Breakwater terminal on Sir Leslie
Thiess Dr, a taxi and bus hub.

Information
BOOKSHOPS

Jims Book Exchange (%4771 6020; Post Office Plaza,

Flinders St Mall; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sun,
closed Sat) Piled high with reading possibilities.
Mary Who? Bookshop (%4771 3824; 414 Flinders
St Mall) Good travel section and Australian Broadcasting
Commission (ABC) books and music.
INTERNET ACCESS

Internet Den (%4721 4500; 265 Flinders St Mall; per

hr $4; h8am-10pm)
Townsville City Library (%4727 9666; 280 Flinders
St Mall; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat & Sun) Free
internet access; one hour sessions begin on the hour.
POST

Australia Post (Post Office Plaza, Shop 1, Sturt St)

TOURIST INFORMATION

Flinders Mall visitor information centre (%4721

3660; www.townsvilleonline.com.au; Flinders St Mall;
h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun) General
information and diving and reef tours.
Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority
(%4750 0700; www.gbrmpa.gov.au; Reef HQ, 2-68
Flinders St East; h9.30am-5pm) Detailed and technical
information on the Reef.
QPWS (%4722 5224; www.epa.qld.gov.au; Old Quarantine Station, Cape Pallarenda; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri)

QUEENSLAND

(per person $45) These QWPS

camping grounds provide a Robinson Crusoetype experience away from everyone you can
pretty much run around naked and no-one will notice as the each camping ground only accommodates four people. You will need to pay an extra $4 per person per night in park fees
to stay on these islands.

North Molle, South Molle, Planton Island and Denman Island

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398 N O R T H C OA S T T o w n s v i l l e

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0
0

TOWNSVILLE
INFORMATION
Australia Post.....................................1 B5
Flinders Mall Visitor Information
Centre............................................2 C5
Great Barrier Reef Marine Park
Authority...................................(see 10)
Internet Den.......................................3 C5
Jim's Book Exchange..........................4 B5
Mary Who? Bookshop........................5 B5
Townsville & North Queensland
Visitor Information Centre............. 6 D5
Townsville City Library.......................7 C5
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander
Cultural Centre .........................(see 10)
Kissing Pt
Adrenaline Dive................................. 8 C5
Coral Sea Skydivers........................(see 41)
IMAX Cinema................................(see 10)
Maritime Museum of Townsville........9 C5
Museum of Tropical Queensland.....10 C5
Ocean Dive......................................11 B5
Perc Tucker
Regional Gallery............12 C5
St
tt
Pro iDive...........................................
13 C5
ow HQ.........................................(see 10)
Reef
H

Sunferries.......................................(see 45)
Tobruk Pool..................................... 14 C4

Scirocco........................................... 33 D5
White Blue.......................................34 C5

SLEEPING
City Oasis Inn...................................15
Civic Guest House............................16
Coral Lodge......................................17
Great Northern Hotel.......................18
Historic Yongala Lodge Motel..........19
Ibis...................................................20
Mariners North................................21
Quest Townsville.............................22
Reef Lodge Backpackers...................23
Strand Motel....................................24
Strand Park Hotel.............................25

DRINKING
Brewery............................................35
Heritage Bar & Grill..........................36
Mad Cow Tavern.............................37
Molly Malones.................................38
Seaview............................................39
Watermark.......................................40

EATING
Betty Blue & the Lemon Tart.............26 B5
C Bar................................................27 B4
Cactus Jacks.....................................28 C5
Caf Bambini....................................29 B5
Chilli Jam Noodle Bar.......................30 C5
Kanteen...........................................31 C5
Ladah...............................................32 B5
Naked Fish.....................................(see 25)

nd
ra

TRANSPORT
Avis................................................(see 38)
Breakwater Terminal........................45 D4
Long Distance Bus Station..............(see 45)
Magnetic Island Car Ferry................ 46 D4
Queensland Rail Travel Centre.........47 B6

St

26
42

St

16

Wick
h
St am

Per
Sa
un
de

To Europcar (4km); Hertz (4km);

Thrifty (4km); Anderson Park (5km);
Woodstock Trail Rides (40km);
Australian Institute of Marine Science (50km);
Ayr (83km); Charters Towers (132km);
Cairns (349km); Mackay (395km)

t
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St
De
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Train
Station
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47

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St
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18

Ro

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To Billabong
Sanctuary (17km);
Ayr (82km);
Mackay (395km)

rey

Le
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on

Dr

46

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St

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Stop
34
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29
Post Office Plaza
11

35

Br
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45

Can
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38

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43

23
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8
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31
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19

Castle Hill
Lookout

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St

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14

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Fr

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21

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24

St

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Ke
nn
ed

rk

39

St

Rd

44

t
ll S
he
itc

St

To Thuringowa
(3km)

To Magnetic
Island (8km)

27

Ro
ss

St

25

Queens
Park

St

Sights
REEF HQ

This outstanding living coral reef aquarium

(%4750 0800; www.reefhq.org.au; Flinders St East; adult/child/
concession $21.50/10.50/16.50, family $32-54; h9.30am5pm, guided tours every 30min) showcases many of

the creatures and corals that inhabit the Great

Barrier Reef. Every part of the aquarium recreates a part of the reef: in the massive central
tank a dense population of vivid fish, sharks
(including the likes of Cuddles), sawfish and
rays dart across one another. Dont miss the
new turtle rehabilitation centre on a guided
tour (strapped-on footwear required), or the
opportunity to see the resident blue-eyed white
turtle. The Imax cinema (%4721 1481; Flinders St East;

Alle
nS
t

an
St

N O R T H C OA S T T o w n s v i l l e 399

$12/7/9/30; h9am-5pm) features dance, music

and storytelling performances from Monday

to Friday (11am to noon) and an indigenous
Australian and Torres Strait Islander gallery.
Hours vary on weekends.
Pop into the Perc Tucker Regional Gallery
(%4727 9011; [email protected]; cnr Denham St &
Flinders St Mall; admission free; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am2pm Sat & Sun). Housed in a heritage building, it

focuses mainly on contemporary Queensland

artists.
If youre feeling energetic, the panoramic
views from the top of Castle Hill are worth the
2km scramble to the summit; the path to the
top begins at the corner of Wills and Victoria
Sts.
The Billabong Sanctuary (%4778 8344; www
.billabongsanctuary.com.au; Bruce Hwy; adult/child $26/15;
h8am-5pm), 17km south of Townsville, is a

The Strand, northwest of town, is a zealously

nurtured beachfront esplanade with a marina,
cafs, grassy parks, a playground (complete
with water bazookas and pull-cord water
jets) and a stinger enclosure. Elderly citizens
gather around picnic tables, indigenous folk
shade-nap by fig trees and languid storks
bathe in the fountains. At the northeast tip is
the rock pool (admission free; h24hr), an enormous
artificial swimming pool with a stinger-free
enclosure surrounded by lawns and sandy
beaches.
The Museum of Tropical Queensland (%4726

10-hectare wildlife park containing Australian

native animals and birds. There are barbecue areas, a swimming pool and a kiosk in
the park, and various shows (hold-a-koala/
wombat/python; $10) are held throughout
the day.
If you fancy a lazy picnic, head to the ornamental Queens Gardens (cnr Gregory & Paxton Sts)
at the base of Castle Hill, or Anderson Park
(Gulliver St, Mundingburra), with plants and palms
from northern Queensland and Cape York
Peninsula.
About 35km southeast of Townsville on
the Bruce Hwy is the turn-off to the Australian Institute of Marine Science (AIMS; %4753 4444;
www.aims.gov.au), a fascinating marine-research
facility on Cape Ferguson that conducts free,
two-hour tours at 10am on Friday (book
ahead).

0600; www.mtq.qld.gov.au; Flinders St East; adult/child/concession $12/7/8; h9am-5pm) houses a replica of

Activities
The Tobruk Pool (%4772-6550; the Strand; h5.30am-

the HMS Pandora (which was shipwrecked

in 1791 off the nearby coast), a 1:24 scale
model that took 7000 painstaking hours to
complete, and the biggest collection of Great
Barrier Reef hard corals anywhere, including the approaching-antiquity bombie coral.
Colourful statues of larger-than-life pioneers
provide a laugh. Artefacts from the Yongala
(now a dive site; see p400) can be seen at
the Maritime Museum of Townsville (%4721 5251;

for the 1952 and 1964 Olympic swim teams,

has shaded swimming areas, a poolside kiosk
serving athlete-worthy eats, and a B&W photograph display of the chlorine champions.
City slickers looking for that quintessential
country experience can go horseback on a cattle muster at Woodstock Trail Rides (%4778 8888;

www.townsvillemaritimemuseum.org.au; 42-68 Palmer St;

adult/concession/family $5/4/12; h10am-4pm).

www.woodstocktrailrides.com.au; Flinders Hwy; per person incl

lunch $120). For one day on horseback you can

The Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Cultural Centre (%4772 7679; [email protected]; 2-68

help move em in and brand their hides, eat

a camp-cooked lunch and down a cold beer
at days end; the price includes transfer from

Flinders St East; performances adult/child/concession/family

8pm Mon-Thu, 5.30am-6.30pm Fri, 7am-6pm Sat, 8am-6pm

Sun Sep-Apr, reduced hours May-Aug), a training hub

QUEENSLAND

Townsville
Harbour

40

ton

villeonline.com.au; 70-102 Flinders St East; h9am-5pm)

The ladies in pink provide information and free maps.

OTHER SIGHTS

Strand
Park

re

Pa
x

Townsville & North Queensland Visitor Information Centre (%1800 801 902, 4721 1116; www.towns

adult/child/concession $13/8/11; h1st show 10.45am, last

show 2.45pm) is next door.

Ey

QUEENSLAND

ENTERTAINMENT
Bank Lounge Bar..............................41 C5
BC Cinemas......................................42 B6
Criterion Hotel................................. 43 D5
Jupiters Casino................................. 44 D4
Level One......................................(see 35)

St

C5
C5
C5
C5
B4
B3

Cleveland
Bay

To Airport (5km);
QPWS at Cape
Pallarenda (11km)

Wa
rbu
rto

B5
B5
B5
B6
C4
C5
C4
C5
C5
B4
B4

e
Th

To Rock Pool (1.5km);

Rowes Bay Caravan
Park (2km)

500 m
0.3 miles

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400 N O R T H C OA S T T o w n s v i l l e

Townsville. Trail rides and an overnight bush

camp are also possible.
For adrenalin junkies, Coral Sea Skydivers
(%4772 4889; www.coralseaskydivers.com.au; 181 Flinders
St East; tandem from $315) will have you disembark-

ing sky-high. The tandem jump requires no

prior knowledge; just a lot of guts (but not too
much: theres a weight limit of 95kg).
DIVING

Apart from the Great Barrier Reef, the big attraction for divers is the stunning and spooky
Yongala shipwreck. There are several dive
companies, most offering Yongala options,
but you need to have an open-water certificate
to see it. Dive companies are only as good
as their staff, who change frequently in this
business. Ask other travellers for current recommendations. Ocean Dive (%4721 4233; www
.oceandive.com.au; 252 Walker St; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri,
10am-2pm Sat) sells dive paraphernalia.
.com.au; 121 Flinders St East; from $179) Yongala day
trips including two dives. Also runs diving certification
courses.
Pro Dive (%1300 131 760, 4721 1760; www.prodive
townsville.com.au; 14 Plume St, South Townsville; from
$775) Three-night live-aboard departing every Tuesday
and Friday night.
SunSea Dive (%1800 447 333, 4772 7711; www
.sunseacruises.com.au; adult/child $139/84) Day trips to
John Brewer reef leave on Tuesday, Wednesday, Saturday
and Sunday.

Tours
Sunferries (%4771 3855; www.sunferries.com.au; Sir Leslie
Thiess Dr; per person from $145) operates day trips to
the Great Barrier Reef. A certified or introductory dive costs an additional $70.

Sleeping
BUDGET

Reef Lodge Backpackers (%4721 1112; www.reeflodge

.com.au; 4 Wickham St; dm $18-20, d with/without bathroom
$68/50; ai) With its mellow atmosphere,

beaut murals, cheery bed covers and outdoor nooks, Reef Lodge leads the hostel pack
here. Space is at a premium in the two-tier
complex overlooking a courtyard but with
a book exchange, a laundry, bike hire ($9 a
day) and a traveller noticeboard, youre well
catered for.
Civic Guest House (%1800 646 619, 4771 5381;
www.civicguesthouse.com; 262 Walker St; dm $22, d/tw

lonelyplanet.com

$70/75, s without bathroom $45-50, d without bathroom

$50-55; ais) Behind the quintessentially

Strand Park Hotel (%4750 7888; www.strandpark

hotel.com.au; 59-60 the Strand; r $120-185; pas)

Queensland frontage complete with palms is

this spick-and-span converted home-cumhostel. Easy-going and sedate, the Civic hosts
a free barbecue for guests on Friday night.
Great Northern Hotel (%4771 6191; fax 4771 6190;
496 Flinders St; s/d $35/55; pa) Good value and
central, this authentic old timer could tell
a few tales. Its all dark panelling and luxe
wallpaper in the foyer, while open vents in
the rooms allow for free-flowing circulation
(hope you dont have loud roommates). The
best rooms open out on to the broad encircling veranda. The pub downstairs dishes out
healthy doses of Queensland culture.
oCoral Lodge (%1800 614 613, 4771 5512;

Self-contained units in this waterfront complex range from standard on the ground floor
to superior and deluxe rooms with ocean
views, balconies and perhaps a spa.
Quest Townsville (%4772 6477; www.questtowns

www.corallodge.com.au; 32 Hale St; s/d $60/75, units s $75, d

& tw $90; ap) The current owner-operators

Mariners North (%4722 0777; www.marinersnorth.com

.au; 7 Mariners Dr; apt from $165; pas) Perched
on the marina like a stack of cards, this soaring complex overlooks Cleveland Bay. The
sizable two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartments have fully equipped kitchens (pick
your own herbs), DVD players, laundries
and water views. Guests have free rein over
the complexs tennis court, saltwater pool and
barbecue facilities.

of this B&B, established in the 1930s and still

going strong, pride themselves on retaining
the folksy atmosphere. Upstairs units have
kitchens and one affords a sea view. Downstairs, budget rooms boast high beds and share
a fully equipped kitchen, or you can barbecue
outside under the mango tree.

ville.com.au; 30-34 Palmer St; apt $135-250; pas)

Lacking personality but bristling with cleanliness, this high-rise complex hosts mostly business travellers who like the gym and valet
dry-cleaning. Self-contained rooms are serviced daily and have balconies. Families are
also catered for with one- and two-bedroom
apartments, and a babysitting service.
TOP END

MIDRANGE

Strand Motel (%4772 1977; www.strandmotel.com.au; 51

the Stand; s/d $70/80) Pokey but affordable rooms
with house-proud cleanliness are opposite the
watery esplanade, making them particularly
good value.
Ibis (%4753 2000; www.ibishotels.com.au; 12-14
Palmer St; d $99-139; pai) All shiny and
new as one incoming guest remarked, Ibis
is the newest kid on the block with efficient
rooms, thin TVs, indigenous prints, comehither beds and a ground-floor caf, Sugatrain. Maximum occupancy of two people per
room suits couples.
Historic Yongala Lodge Motel (%4772 4633; www
.historicyongala.com.au; 11 Fryer St; r $99-154, meals $18.5030; hdinner Mon-Sat; pas) A lovely two-

storey timber lodging from the 1880s with

a restaurant, comfortable motel rooms and
self-contained units at the rear.
City Oasis Inn (%4771 6048; www.cityoasis.com.au;
143 Wills St; r $101-175; pas) Well managed
and spotlessly clean, this inner-city resort
has motel units, self-contained apartments
with loft bedrooms, and executive suites
basically a room to suit everyone. The grassy
grounds and frogs nook pool makes it ideal
for families.

CAMPING

Rowes Bay Caravan Park (%4771 3576; fax 4724 2017;

Heatley Pde, Rowes Bay; unpowered/powered sites $17.50/23,
cabins $55-79; s) Leafy camping ground 3km

from Townsvilles CBD.

Eating
oBetty Blue & the Lemon Tart (%4724 2554;
254 Sturt St; meals $7-$9; hbreakfast & lunch) Boast-

ing just-baked muffins, fetta-and-pine-nut

tart and its smooth-as-silk namesake, this
is as funky as Townsville gets. And hipness
demands oriental-inspired crockery and a
communal table. The same crew are behind
the Kanteen (95 Denham St), specialising in
quick gourmet bites.
Ladah (%4724 0402; cnr Sturt & Stanley Sts; lunch $816; hbreakfast & lunch Mon-Fri & Sun) Plant yourself
on a chocolate- and cream-coloured cube at
this groovy, always chatty, caf. Tuck into
savoury mince on toast and other inventive
breakfasts, fresh lunches and guilty pleasures
to accompany good coffee.
Naked Fish (%4724 4623; 60 the Strand; mains $1725; hdinner Mon-Sat) Snookering prime position, a sea of green-blue walls and a starry
ceiling and ocean-inspired menu keep the

N O R T H C OA S T T o w n s v i l l e 401

punters coming. Seafood melds with Cajun,

Moroccan, tempura and other influences on
the extensive menu and you can dine outside
beneath a magnificent, giant fig tree. Limited
vegetarian options.
Cactus Jacks (%4721 1478; 21 Palmer St; meals $7-18;
hdinner) Lively locals devouring nachos, the
hum of margaritas whizzing in blenders and
a Tex Mex bric-a-brac interior make this a
popular spot.
C Bar (%4724 0333; Gregory St Headland; mains $18.5024.50) Sleekness and million-dollar views make
for the ideal eating sojourn. Wake up to apple
and cinnamon pancakes or linger over crispy
duck with verjuice when sunset falls. Grazing
encouraged.
oWhite Blue (%4724 4498; 13 Palmer St;
mains $25-29; hdinner Mon-Sat) If the contemporary Greek menu doesnt lure you in, the
sparkle of the Basazza mosaics and Olympictorchinspired lighting will. A touch Miami,
this place is big on portions. Greek Island images will have you dreaming of going adrift
thankfully Magnetic Island isnt far away. An
adjoining coral-stone bar with marshmallow
cube seating is the perfect place to let the
games begin.
Scirocco (%4724 4508; 61 Palmer St; mains $26-36;
hlunch Tue-Fri, dinner Tue-Sat) Thailand meets
the Aegean at this inviting la carte restaurant mixing up cuisines with finesse. Watch
kitchen staff cook up feasts of mud crab
and vodka-flamed linguine or drool-worthy
chocolate pudding with honeycomb custard.
Vegetarians and even gluten-free foodies have
a dedicated menu.
Also recommended:
Cafe Bambini (%4724 5188; 101 Sturt St; light meals
$6-7; hbreakfast & lunch) Groovy tunes blowing in the
wind, real coffee, and Greek yoghurt and muesli to go-go
make this a happening morning pit stop.
Chilli Jam Noodle Bar (%4721 5199; 211 Flinders
St East; meals $11-16; hlunch Tue-Fri, dinner Tue-Sat)
Spunky eat-in or takeaway. Try the flat noodles dishes.

Drinking
Watermark (%4724 4281; 72-74 the Strand; hnoonmidnight) A sleek bar where Townsvilles upand-coming drink. Live music on Sundays
from 4pm.
Heritage Bar & Grill (%4771 2799; 137 Flinders St;
hTue-Sat) Quaff a mellow red in wine cellar
style surrounds at this cool cavern for the
after-work crowd, which lingers on well into
the night.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

Reputable PADI courses:

Adrenalin Dive (%4724 0600; www.adrenalinedive

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

402 N O R T H C OA S T T o w n s v i l l e

Brewery (% 4724 9999; www.townsvillebrewery

.com.au; 242 Flinders St; mains $14-18; hfrom 11am)
A sports bar, nightclub, bistro and brewery in a gorgeous old post-office building.
Beer connoisseurs should definitely try one
the Brewerys own: the Neds Red Ale, Kilt
Lifter or perhaps even a chilli beer infused
with jalapenos! Live music rocks on every
Saturday night.
Seaview (%4771 5005; cnr the Strand & Gregory St;
It seems the entire population jams into the
concrete courtyard at the monstrous Seaview
on a Sunday, when local bands thrash it out,
competitive spirit works the pool tables and
wood-fired pizzas work the room.
You cant miss the spotted gaudiness of
the Mad Cow Tavern (%4771 5727; 129 Flinders St East;
hThu-Sun) or the ubiquitous Irish flavour of
Molly Malones (%4771 3428; 87 Flinders St East; 10am3am Sun-Thu, 10am-5am Fri & Sat). Or try the Criterion
Hotel (%4721 5777; 10 the Strand), plastered with
the ubiquitous XXXX beer signage, the Cri
lives up to its party reputation.

Entertainment
Bank Lounge Bar (%4771 6148; 169 Flinders St East;
admission after 10pm $5) This slinky club, housed
inside a superbly restored old bank building,
is Townsvilles hottest nightspot. Linger at
the marble bar or lounge in the padded chill
zone. The beat is house and dance.
Level One (%4724 2999; 242 Flinders St East) The
nightclub upstairs at this multifunctional
Brewery features resident DJs on Friday and
Saturday nights, who spin dance and progressive house as well as beats and breaks to bust
a move to.
Other recommendations:
BC Cinemas (%4771 4101; cnr Sturt & Blackwood Sts)

4739 46863, 4772 5100; h6.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 6.30am4pm Sat & Sun).

Destination
Airlie Beach
Brisbane
Cairns
Charters Towers
Mackay
Mission Beach
Rockhampton

Price ($)

Duration (hr)

54
200
62
31
69
48
111

5
23
6
1
6
4
12

In Plume Street, at the former transit centre, youll find an agent for Premier Motor Service
(%13 34 10) with a daily 2pm Townsville-toCairns service (adult $50, six hours) and Douglas Coaches (%4787 1830) connecting Townsville
to Charters Towers (adult/student $22/17) at
4pm Monday to Friday.
TRAIN

The train station and Queensland Rail Travel

Centre (%4772 8358; 502 Flinders St; h8.30am-5pm
Mon-Fri, 1-4.30pm Sat, 8.30am-4.15pm Sun) are about
500m south of the centre.
The Sunlander connects Townsville with
Brisbane (economy seat/sleeper $175/231, 24
hours), Rockhampton (economy seat $116,
11 hours) and Cairns (economy seat $62, 7
hours). The more luxurious Queenslander
class, which includes a sleeper and meals, is
available on two services per week. The business class Tilt Train also connects Townsville
with Brisbane (economy seat $256, 19 hours)
and Cairns (economy seat $90, six hours)
twice a week.
The Inlander heads from Townsville to
Mt Isa on Thursday and Sunday at 12.30pm
(economy seat/sleeper $118/174).

Mainstream films.

Getting Around

Jupiters Casino (%4722 2333; Sir Leslie Thiess Dr)

Townsville airport is 5km northwest of the

city at Garbutt. A taxi to the centre costs $20,
or else Abacus Tours (%4775 5544; one way/return
$8/14) runs a shuttle to/from the CBD for all
Jetstar, Qantas and Virgin flights; it departs
from the ferry terminal precinct on Sir Leslie
Thiess Dr.
Sunbus (%4725 8482; www.sunbus.com.au) runs local
bus services around Townsville. Route maps
and timetables are available at the visitor information centres and Breakwater Terminal.
Car-rental agencies in Townsville include
Avis (%1300 137 498, 4721 2688; www.avis.com.au; 81
Flinders St), Europcar (%1300 131 390, 4762 7050, 4760

Basics: pokies, roulette, blackjack.

Getting There & Away

AIR

Virgin Blue (%13 67 89), Alliance Airlines (%3212

1212), Macair (%1800 622 247), Jet Star (%13 15 38)
and Qantas (%13 13 13) and its subsidiaries
all service Townsville.
BUS

The long-distance bus station (Sir Leslie Theiss Dr;

lockers per day from $4) is at Breakwater Terminal.
Here youll find Greyhound Australia (%1300

lonelyplanet.com

1380; www.europcar.com.au; 305 Ingham Rd, Garbutt), Hertz

(%13 30 30, 4775 5950; www.hertz.com; Stinson Ave, Garbutt) and Thrifty (%4725 4600; www.thrifty.com.au; 289
Ingham Rd, Garbutt). The last three also have offices

at Townsville airport.
Taxis congregate outside Breakwater Terminal, or call Townsville Taxis (%13 10 08, 4778 9500).

MAGNETIC ISLAND
%07 / pop 3278

Magnetic Island, or simply Maggie, is

shrouded by smooth grey boulders dipping
into the sea. Half the island is national park
and a haven for rock wallabies, bats and
brushtail possums. Bird life bursts out of the
bush, and its the largest natural koala sanctuary in Queensland (some say Australia), so
spotting fuzzy grey bums in the foliage is a
mandatory pursuit. A good network of trails
makes for some spectacular bushwalking and
the surrounding waters are also part of the
precious Great Barrier Reef World Heritage Area.
Local buses, named the likes of Sassy Sarina, swerve from one cosy cove to another.
Folk crossing the ferry to their fibro shacks
and architecturally designed holiday retreats
love cracking a tinnie on the ferry at dusk
leaving their worries behind on the mainland.
Developers are daring to dream too, if the islands modern Magnetic Harbour is anything
to go by. Magnetic Island might just boom
but we hope not too soon, too fast.

Orientation & Information

Magnetic Island is only 8km from Townsville and roughly triangular in shape. A sealed
road follows the east coast for 10km from
Picnic Bay, on the islands southern point, to
Horseshoe Bay in the north. Theres a rough
8km track along the west coast leading from
Picnic Bay to a wonderfully secluded beach
at West Point. All passenger ferries dock at
Nelly Bay.
For information pop into the mainlands
Townsville & North Queensland Visitor Information
Centre (%1800 801 902, 4721 1116; www.townsvilleonline
.com.au; 70-102 Flinders St East; h9am-5pm). Theres
a QPWS office (%4778 5378; 22 Hurst St; h8am-4pm)
at Picnic Bay.
At Nelly Bays Harbourside Plaza, Australia
Post (%4778 5118; Shop 2, 98-100 Sooning St) does
foreign currency exchange and credit-card
cash advances.
Some hostels offer internet access.

N O R T H C OA S T M a g n e t i c I s l a n d 403

Sights
PICNIC BAY

Perhaps its the twinkling night views of

Townsville that draw families and couples
to Picnic Bay. The shagadelic mall along the
waterfront has a handful of eateries and is a favourite hang-out for that elegant, curious bird:
the curlew. Theres a stinger-free enclosure
here and you can hire snorkelling gear.
To the west of town is Cockle Bay, with the
wreck of HMS City of Adelaide, and secluded
West Point. Heading east around the coast is
Rocky Bay, where theres a short, steep walk
down to its beautiful beach. A popular ninehole golf course, the Magnetic Island Country Club
(%4778 5188; Hurst St, Picnic Bay; hfrom 8am) is open
to the public.
NELLY BAY

Sunferries disgorges all passengers at Nelly

Bay offering the opportunity to shop and gawk
as the enormous Magnetic Harbour development takes shape with the marina, public boat
ramp and residential developments opening
in stages over the coming years. Magnetic
Harbour has transformed Nelly into something of a hub for the island hopefully it will
stay a low-key one.
ARCADIA

Arcadia village has the lovely Alma Bay cove.

Theres plenty of shade, picnic tables and a
kids playground here. The main beach, Geoffrey Bay, is less appealing but has a reef at its
southern end (QPWS discourages reef walking at low tide). Arcadia has places to stay,
and a few shops and eateries.
RADICAL BAY & THE FORTS

Townsville was a supply base for the Pacific

region during WWII, and the forts were designed to protect the town from naval attack.
The only ammunition they provide now is
for your camera great panoramic views.
You can walk to the forts from the junction
of Radical and Horseshoe Bay Rds, about
2km north of Alma Bay, or head north to
Radical Bay via the rough vehicle track that
has walking tracks leading to secluded Arthur
and Florence Bays (great for snorkelling) and
the old searchlight station on the headland between the two.
From Radical Bay you can walk across the
headland to beautiful Balding Bay (an unofficial
nude bathing beach) and Horseshoe Bay.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

meals $14-$36; 10am-1am Sun-Thu,10am-5am Fri & Sat)

lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com

0
0

MAGNETIC ISLAND
A

The Point

SOUTH
PACIFIC
OCEAN

2 km
1 mile

White Rock

Balding
Bay

Lovers Bay

White Lady Rock

Radical Bay

Maud Bay

Rollingstone
Bay
Liver Pt

Huntingfield
Bay

Norris Bay

Wilson
Bay

Horseshoe Bay

Joyce
Bay

Gowrie
Bay

24

5 29

27

13
19

Horseshoe
Bay

Florence
Bay

Arthur
Bay

West Point

v Cr
eek

Magnetic Island
National Park

Young Bay

18

Gusta

Mt Cook
(494m)

Arcadia

Bolger Bay

6
11

17

Alma Bay

14

30

10

21

28
20

Nelly Bay

Magnetic
Harbour

Picnic Bay
1

Cockle Bay

22

Nobby Head

INFORMATION
Australia Post.................................(see 25)
QPWS Office.....................................1 C3

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Blueys Horseshoe Ranch....................2 C2
Bush Tucker Brunch with the
Koalas........................................(see 13)
Forts..................................................3 D2
Magnetic Island Country Club............4 B4
Magnetic Island Sea Kayaks................5 C1
Market...............................................6 D2
Pleasure Divers...................................7 D3
Searchlight Station.............................8 D2
Vonnie van Bemmel's Art Studio......(see 6)
Wreck of HMS City of Adelaide.........9 B3
SLEEPING
About Town Real Estate................... 10 D3
Acadia Beach Guesthouse................ 11 D3

12

Rocky Bay

15 23

31

Hawkings Pt

Picnic
Bay

Ferry

QUEENSLAND

16

Geoffrey
Bay

32
26

Nelly Bay 25

Bremner Pt

Cleveland Bay

To Townsville
(8km)

Base.................................................12 C3
Bungalow Bay Koala Village.............13 D2
First National Real Estate..................14 D3
Magnetic Island Holiday Units..........15 C4
Magnetic Island Tropical Resort........16 C3
Magnum's....................................... 17 D2
Marshalls B&B.................................18 D2
New Friends B&B.............................19 D2
Pure Magnetic..................................20 C3
Segara Villas.....................................21 C3
Shaws on The Shore.......................(see 24)
Travellers Hideaway......................... 22 C4
Tropical Palms Inn............................23 C4

EATING
Alby's Chinese Restaurant..............(see 31)
Banisters Seafood..........................(see 30)
Barefoot...........................................24 C1
Bells Harbour Bakery......................(see 25)

Caf Africa.....................................(see 31)

Calypso..........................................(see 30)
Fat Possum Caf............................(see 28)
Foodworks.....................................(see 28)
Le Paradis.........................................25 C3
Man Friday.......................................26 C3
Marlin Bar.........................................27 C1
Pizza Tonite......................................28 C3
Sandbar.........................................(see 27)
Swenson's......................................(see 13)
Wicked McNasty's............................29 C1
SHOPPING
Arcadia Shopping Centre.................30 C3
Picnic Bay Mall.................................31 C4
TRANSPORT
Moke Magnetic................................32 C3
Tropical Topless Car Rentals...........(see 31)

HORSESHOE BAY

Activities

Horseshoe Bay, on the north coast of the island,

seems to attract a young crowd and couples. It
has a few shops, accommodation and a long
stretch of beach that has water-sports gear for
hire and a stinger-free enclosure. There are
walks to the northeast to Balding and Radical
Bays for great swimming.

The QPWS publishes a leaflet on the islands

36km of excellent bushwalking tracks (see
also www.queenslandwalks.com.au). Walks
include: Nelly Bay to Arcadia (5km one way,
three hours); Picnic Bay to West Point (16km
return, four hours, no bus access); Horseshoe
Bay to Florence Bay (2.5km, one hour); and

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

the Fort Walk (4km, 1 hours), a circuit walk

with spectacular views near the Radical Bay
turn-off. You can catch the bus back at the
end of most of these.
Dive companies on Magnetic Island offer
plenty of underwater action with certificate
courses, and wreck and night dives. Try
Pleasure Divers (%1800 797 797, 4778 5788; www
.magnetic-island.com.au/plsr-divers; 10 Marine Pde, Arcadia;
open-water course per person $300).
Bush tucker brunch with the koalas (%4778 5577;
www.bungalowbay.com.au; adult/child/family $25/12.50/70;
h8.30-10am, Sun, Wed & Fri), at Bungalow Bay

Koala Village, is your chance to fill up on a

mammoth breakfast of billy tea, bush-style
hash browns with eggs and guava champagne
while meeting furry friends. Theres also a
wildlife show and bushwalk each day at 10am,
noon and 2.30pm.
Pick up a shell mobile or some local jam
at Arcadias low-key market (RSL, cnr Mirmar Cres &
Hayles Ave), which takes place each Friday from
5.30pm to 8pm, plus Saturday from mid-April
to early October. Across the road, Vonnie van
Bemmels art studio (%4758 1299; cnr Hayles Ave &
Appian Way; hdaily) shows off the island in oil
paints.

Tours
Barnacle Bill (%4758 1837, 0438-165 581; from $50)
Bill knows the sea like the bristles on his beard; all gear is
included on this two-hour fishing/snorkelling tour out of
Horseshoe Bay.
Blueys Horseshoe Ranch (%4778 5109; www.blueys
horseranch.com; 38 Gifford St, Horseshoe Bay; rides $80;
h9am & 3pm daily) Offers two-hour rides taking you
from bush to beach, where you can swim with your horse.
Jazza Sailing Tours (%4778 5530; www.jazza.com.au;
$95) Snorkelling day trip on a 13m yacht that includes
boom netting, seafood lunch and afternoon jam session.
Magnetic Island Sea Kayaks (%4778 5424; www
.seakayak.com.au; 93 Horseshoe Bay Rd; tours from $60)
Four-hour eco-certified tours departing Horseshoe Bay
paddling over to Balding Bay and back. Includes breakfast.
Reef EcoTours (%0419-712 579; www.reefecotours
.com; adult/child/family $65/55/200) Offers a one-hour
guided snorkel thats suitable for families.
Tropicana Tours (%4758 1800; www.tropicanatours
.com.au; tours $132) Operates excellent off-the-track day
tours in a s-t-r-e-t-c-h 4WD.

Sleeping
Rates for a bed on Maggie increase during
high season. If youre staying more than a
few days, First National Real Estate (%4778 5077;

N O R T H C OA S T M a g n e t i c I s l a n d 405

www.magneticislandfn.com.au; 21 Marine Pde, Arcadia) and

About Town Real Estate (%4778 5570; www.magneticis
landrealestate.com; Shop 4/5 Bright Ave, Arcadia) manage

apartments and houses ranging in price from

$85 to $200 per night. Accommodation seems
to change with the wind on the island so the
best bet is to call ahead rather than taking
your chances showing up.
PICNIC BAY

Magnetic Island Holiday Units (%4778 5246; 16 Yule

St; d from $120; as) These tightly spaced selfcontained units have been renovated recently.
Two-bedroom units, available for $140, accommodate up to six people.
You can also bed down at the basic Travellers Hideaway (%1800 000 290, 4778 5314; www
.travellersbackpackers.com; 32 Picnic St; dm $15, d from $40;
ais) hostel, or take one of the semi-self-

contained motel rooms at Tropical Palms Inn

(%4778 5076; [email protected]; 34 Picnic
St; s/d/f $85/92/105; as).
NELLY BAY

Base (%1800 242 273, 4778 5777; www.basebackpackers

.com; 1 Nelly Bay Rd; unpowered sites per person $12, dm $27, d
$62-95, without bathroom $110; is) If youre keen

to party or simply navel gaze, this sprawling flashpacker franchise sits on prime real
estate. Bunk-up or ask for a beachfront Aframe, where the Coral Sea laps below. The
beachfront decking and dining area is abuzz
and theres a dive school on site.
Magnetic Island Tropical Resort (%1800 069 122,
4778 5955; www.magnetictropicalresort.com; 56 Yates St; d
from $85; as) Five minutes walk from the

waters edge in a quiet street, these good

value A-frame cabins with en suites encircle
large bird-filled gardens. There are also
lawn tennis courts and a seafood-and-steak
restaurant.
oSegara Villas (%4778 5151; www.segara
.net; 20 Mango Parkway; d $160-200; pa) These outstanding, creatively furnished villas are enveloped by a Balinese-style garden. The B&B
poolside villa has a private garden shower,
while deluxe villas are replete with polished
floors, suede lounges and gorgeous patios.
Two standard villas are far from ordinary. A
serene treat for couples.
Pure Magnetic (%4778 5955; 9 the Esplanade;
town houses from $260) Flash two-bedroom, twobathroom A-frame-cum-townhouses with
Balinese furniture and the latest in selfcontained accessories.

QUEENSLAND

404 N O R T H C OA S T M a g n e t i c I s l a n d

406 N O R T H C OA S T M a g n e t i c I s l a n d

ARCADIA

Magnums (%1800 663 666, 4778 5177; www.magnums

Caf Africa (%4758 1119; Picnic Bay Mall; dishes $7.5012; hbreakfast & lunch) Tuck into all-day break-

but big on the hands-in-the-air party vibe, this

backpackers has a bistro, bar and toad racing
(8.15pm Wednesday).
oArcadia Beach Guesthouse (%4778 5668;

fasts and crepes at this stripy caf.

Albys Chinese Restaurant (%4778 5706; 6 Picnic
Bay Arcade; dishes $4-16; hlunch & dinner) Smiley host,
Albert Chan, dishes up a full Chinese spread
including king prawns with chilli sauce at
this BYO eatery.

www.arcadiabeachguesthouse.com.au; 27 Marine Pde; s/d from

$25/70) This affable place has a beachfront loca-

NELLY BAY

.com.au; 7 Marine Pde, Arcadia; unpowered/powered sites

$16/19, dm $16-19, d $49; ais) Short on charm

tion to make you swoon. Theres a range of

accommodation from B&B rooms to budget
safari tents. A bamboo under-croft area downstairs and the cool canopy of an acacia tree
out the back are ideal chill-out spots. Ring
ahead to get picked up from the ferry in the
Rolls Royce!
Marshalls B&B (%4778 5112; 3-5 Endeavour Rd; s/d
$55/75) Marshalls friendly hosts have four basic
rooms. You are welcome to use the lounge
room and pleasant bird-filled garden with outdoor seating. Courtesy pick-up from ferry.
HORSESHOE BAY

Bungalow Bay Koala Village (%1800 285 577, 4778

5577; www.bungalowbay.com.au; 40 Horseshoe Bay Rd; unpowered/powered sites $20/25, dm $22, d & tw with/without bathroom $75/55; ais) This is the best

large-scale budget accommodation on the

island, offering a get-back-to-nature bush
setting with camp sites, timber bungalows,
self-contained units and a gumtree-shaded
saltwater pool. Friendly staff and plenty of
chatty birds.
New Friends B&B (%4758 1220; 48b Horseshoe Bay Rd;
s/d $95/110; as) French doorfronted rooms
with their own bathrooms are immaculate
and nestled in the main house, which makes
for some friendly, communal living. The
fabulous garden is backed by jungle palms
and breakfast is a tropical spread at a snazzy
gumtree table.
Shaws on the Shore (%4758 1911; www.shawson
theshore.com.au; 7 Pacific Dr; d from $145) A sprightly
three-storey complex with one- to threebedroom self-contained apartments with
water-facing balconies.

Eating
Each of Maggies villages has its dining hub,
with Horseshoe Bay the most diverse.
PICNIC BAY

As well as the following places, theres a slew

of takeaway options.

Fat Possum Caf (%4778 5409; 55 Sooning St; dishes

$5-10; hbreakfast & lunch; i) An Irishman is at
the helm of this relaxed caf making an assortment of healthy burgers, wraps and zesty pies,
and some of the best coffee on the island.
Man Friday (%4778 5658; Warboys St; meals $13.5029.50; hdinner) Youre a long way from Mexico
but this converted beach shack delivers a mean
serve of nachos. Little amigos are catered for
and BYO is accepted.
Le Paradis (%4778 5044; cnr Mandalay Av & Sooning St;
mains $20.50-31.50; hlunch Fri-Sun, dinner Tue-Sat) This
la carte, BYO restaurant offers a range of
French-inspired eats; the three course menu
($28) is particularly good value before 7pm
(arrive at 5.30pm).
More options:
Bells Harbour Bakery (%4758 1870; Shop 4, 98-100
Sooning St, Harbourside Plaza) Famed for its vegetarian
pasties.
Pizza Tonite (%4758 1400; 53 Sooning St; pizzas $925; hdinner Tue-Sun) Yep they do pizza, plus burgers
and lasagne. Takeaway available.
ARCADIA

Banisters Seafood (%4778 5700; 22 McCabe Cres; mains

$5-22; hlunch & dinner) For finger-lickin fish and
chips, this is a good albeit slow takeaway (who
is in a rush anyway?).
Calypso (%4778 5511; 22 McCabe Cres; meals $6.50-15;
hbreakfast, lunch & dinner Thu-Mon) This is a palmshaded neo-hippy caf with outdoor umbrellas and wind chimes, serving mango pancakes
and braised tofu with bok choy.
HORSESHOE BAY

Marlin Bar (%4758 1588; 3 Pacific Dr; mains $10-20;

hlunch daily, dinner Tue-Sat) This lively waterfront
pub does decent pasta dishes and serves more
meat than you could poke a cattle prod at.
Grab a number and a window seat; your food
will find you when its ready.
Barefoot (%4758 1170; 5 Pacific Dr; meals $10.50-30;
hlunch & dinner Thu-Mon) Wine, dine and admire
the works of local artists at Horseshoe Bays

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N O R T H C OA S T N o r t h C o a s t H i n t e r l a n d 407

most upmarket of eateries. Theres a shady

deck area at the rear but we dont blame you for
wanting to be perched near the waterfront.
Sandbar (%4778 5477; Pacific Dr; mains $14-28;
hdinner Wed-Sun, lunch Sat & Sun) Catch the sea
breeze at this licensed caf-restaurant or grab
a cushioned corner and relish Penang-style
curry and sushi platters.
Also recommended:
Wicked McNastys (%4778 5861; Pacific Dr; meals

NORTH COAST HINTERLAND

Just a couple of days drive and you can swelter in Australias famed outback. The Flinders
Hwy heads 800km due west from Townsville
to Cloncurry.

Ravenswood
%07 / pop 100

eight times each weekday and seven times

on Saturday and Sunday from the south side
of Ross Creek. It costs $144 (return) for a car
and three passengers and $22 (return) for a
passenger only. The ferry docks at Magnetic
Harbour in Nelly Bay.

At Mingela, 88km from Townsville, think

about making the 40km detour to Ravenswood, an unassuming National Trustlisted
town. Remnants of the towns mining past
brick furnaces, old mills and mine materials
fill the vista of sunbaked hills, sparse plains
and all-consuming sky. Hop on a stool at one
of the pubs and chat over a beer; most miners
are happy to welcome a fresh face.
Then visit the old post office and mining &
historical museum (%4770 2047; adult/child $2.20/1.10;
h11am-1pm), housed in the restored courthouse, police station and lock-up.
The Thorps building in the main street
houses a pottery shop (%4770 2507) with curious finds. If youre in town on the weekend,
soak up the heritage on a 30-minute horse
drawn wagon ride (%4770 2562, 0429-172 755; per
person $5; h10am-2pm Sat & Sun) a kitsch but
fun diversion.
You can sleep over at the Imperial Hotel
(%4770 2131; Macrossan St; s/tw/d $35/45/50), an oldworld gem, or the Railway Hotel (%4770 2144;
Barton St; s/tw/d $35/45/55). The council camping
ground (unpowered sites $10) is a sun-battered football field; stays are limited to one week.

Getting Around

Charters Towers

Magnetic Island is ideal for cycling. Most

places to stay rent bikes for around $15 a day.
Otherwise Magnetic Island Bike Hire (%0425-244
193; www.islandbike.com.au) charges the same, with
free delivery.
The Magnetic Island Bus Service (%4778 5130;
fares $2-4, day pass $11) ploughs between Picnic Bay
and Horseshoe Bay at least 14 times per day,
meeting all ferries and stopping at, or near,
all accommodation.
Mokes and scooters are also popular options. Expect to pay around $45 per day, plus
extras such as petrol and a per-kilometre fee,
for a nifty little Moke (mini open-air vehicle)
from either Moke Magnetic (%4778 5377; www
.mokemagnetic.com; 112 Sooning St, Nelly Bay) or Tropical
Topless Car Rentals (%4758 1111; 138 Sooning St, Nelly

%07 / pop 8847

$7-10) A popular no-frills breakfast hangout.

Swensons (%4778 5577; 40 Horseshoe Bay Rd; meals
$17-25) At Bungalow Bay Koala Village, this place offers
deck dining, $10 made-for-one pizzas, plus sumptuous
yellow lentil curry.

Getting There & Away

Sunferries (%4771 3855; www.sunferries.com.au; return per person $26; h6.45am-7pm Mon-Fri, 7am-5.30pm
Sat & Sun) operates a frequent passenger ferry

from the Breakwater terminal on Sir Leslie

Thiess Dr in Townsville (no forward bookings required; be there 30 minutes ahead of
departure). There is car parking here ($5 per
day).
The Magnetic Island Car Ferry (%4772 5422; Ross
St, South Townsville; hfrom Magnetic Island 5.20am-6.55pm
Mon-Fri, 7.10am-6.55pm Sat & Sun) does the crossing

Bay; hire per day from $60)

For a cab, call Magnetic Island Taxi (%13 1008).

The gold rush is over, but the locals getting

around in New York, London, Charters
Towers, Paris T-shirts dont seem to know
it. Indeed, Charters Towers thrives in isolation 130km inland from Townsville. Its main
industries are cattle and mining, with modern
processes renewing a gold revival since the
1980s.
Its living history can be seen in its imposing
public buildings, and friendly locals are keen
to regale you with tales of the past. During
the 19th century locals used to have to pinch
themselves at their new-found wealth; some
of that optimism still lives on as strapping
young men in cowboy boots court local girls
in halter tops at the towns socials.
The gleam of gold was first spotted in 1871
in a creek bed at the foot of Towers Hill by

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408 N O R T H C OA S T N o r t h C o a s t H i n t e r l a n d

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CHARTERS TOWERS

ou

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Dan
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High St

School St

Church St

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Boundary St

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Mexican

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an Aboriginal boy, Jupiter Mosman. Within

a few years the surrounding area was peppered with diggings and a large town had
grown. In its heyday, around the end of the
19th century, Charters Towers was known as
the World for its wealth and diversity. It had
almost 100 mines, a population of 30,000, a
stock exchange and 25 pubs.
INFORMATION

Charters Towers Computers (%4787 2988; 59 Gill St;

h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat; per 10min $1) has
internet access. Otherwise, try the library
(Gill St). Charters Towers visitor information centre
(%4752 0314; www.charterstowers.qld.gov.au; 74 Mosman
St; h9am-5pm; i) is at the top of Gill St and

runs a number of tours.

SIGHTS

A stroll down Gill and Mosman Sts will

present many of Charters Towers historically significant buildings. Near the corner is
the picturesque Stock Exchange Arcade built in
1887 and now lined with shops; the Calling
of the Card audio presentation runs seven
times a day.

78
55

To Venus Gold
Battery (3km)

rk
Yo
To Plain Creek (via Gregory Developmental Rd; 180km);
Hughenden (via Flinders Hwy; 245km);
Clermont (via Gregory Developmental Rd; 370km);
Mt Isa (via Flinders Hwy; 755km)

A wonderful place to escape in time is

the Zara Clark Museum (%4787 4661; 36 Mosman St;
adult/child $4.50/2.20; h10am-3pm). Memorabilia,
from old photos and farming equipment
to period costumes and military items, is
fascinating.
The original Australia Bank of Commerce
building, built in 1891, now houses the World
Theatre (82 Mosman St). It comprises a theatre,
cinema, gift shop and restaurant.
Youll need the free cuppa to recover from
the caretakers ghost stories at Ay Ot Lookout
(%4787 2799; cnr High & Hodgkinsons Sts; admission $5;
h8am-3pm). The timber building is one of

many around town built using a method

known as balloon framing, where the walls
lack external cladding, and so do not have a
cavity that can lead to vermin problems. Its
said to be haunted by its former owner and a
mysterious young woman.
The Venus Gold Battery (%4752 0314; Millchester Rd;
admission $12; h9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri), where goldbearing ore was crushed and ground from
1872 until as recently as 1973, is the largest
preserved battery in Australia. An imaginative
presentation tells the story of this huge relic.

N O R T H C OA S T T o w n s v i l l e t o M i s s i o n B e a c h 409

Towers Hill Lookout, the site where gold was first

discovered, has inspiring views over the plain.
There are interpretive panels, as well as an openair theatre screening the Ghosts of Gold each
evening at around 7pm ($7, 20 minutes).
FESTIVALS & EVENTS

Ten Days in the Towers (www.charterstowerscountrymu

sic.com), held in early May, and claiming to be
the largest amateur gathering in the country,
features line dancing, bush poetry, busking
and boot scootin! Close to 200 cricket teams
descend on Charters Towers to play for the
Goldfield Ashes every Australia Day weekend
(late January).
SLEEPING

Royal Private Hotel (%4787 8688; 100 Mossman St;

s/d without bathroom $28/38, d with bathroom $75-85; a)

Built in 1888 and re-opened in late 2004, this

central place has a colonial ambience with its
exposed floorboards and wooden furniture.
The budget rooms are modest but safe; try to
get one off the wrought-iron balcony. Theres
a guest kitchen and comfy TV room.
York St B&B (%4787 1028, 0400-769 313; 58 York St;
s/d $75/90; pas) Yorks heritage-themed
rooms in this 1880s house evoke another era.
Sit outside on the balcony with the friendly
cat and wonder where the day went. At the
propertys rear is a wing of basic dorms with
kitchen facilities and air-con, though a blokey
atmosphere prevails. Dorm beds are $19 and
there are some singles and doubles available.
Call %4787 1998 for more information.
Park Motel (%4787 1022; [email protected]; 1
Mosman St; s/d $80/90; pas) The guest rooms
upstairs at this historic building have loads of
character, high ceilings and a resident ghost
that sees the cleaners fix rooms 28, 29 and
30 in pairs. Downstairs is a cosy, deep-pink
bar and quaint bistro, Lissners (mains $14 to
$30), which opens every evening. There are
also light motel rooms out the back.
Bluff Downs (%4770 4084; www.bluffdowns.com.au;
unpowered sites $20, dm $20, per person incl activities $145, cottages per person/double from $45/90; ap) A hospita-

ble farmstay two hours drive north of Charters

Towers with swimming holes, fossil fossicking
and wildlife aplenty. Gracious double accommodation includes meals. Ring ahead.
Aussie Outback Oasis (%1800 812 417, 4787 8722;
[email protected]; 76 Dr George Ellis Dr; unpowered/
powered sites $20/25, cabins $90-98; a) A well-

maintained 4-hectare park with self-contained

cabins sleeping up to four people, plus shaded

slab sites and camp kitchen. Swim off the
Charters dust in the landscaped pool.
EATING

Stock Exchange Cafe (%4787 7954; Mosman St; mains

$7-10; hbreakfast & lunch Mon-Sat May-Jan) Mining
agents used to frequent the charmingly restored arcade that houses this caf, but its
gingham-curtained and black-and-white tiled
interior is now better suited to the caf latte
set. Stop in for a baked potato, lasagne or the
all-day big bush breakfast.
Redz (%4787 8044; 32 Gill St; dishes around $8;
hbreakfast & lunch) Fruit shakes, salads and sushi
can be found at this health-conscious caf
with a funky coffee-bean counter.
Henrys Cafe & Restaurant (%4787 4333; 82 Mosman St; mains $18-29; hlunch & dinner) A big classy
restaurant with hearty fare like lamb shanks
drizzled with red wine. And to top it off: terrific pavlova. Live music every Friday and
Saturday night ensures Henrys unfailing
popularity.
More options:
Eats and Sweets (%4787 2667; 14 Gill St; meals
$5-8.50) Good-looking carrot cake and a cappuccino fix are
perfect pick-me-ups on a road trip through town.
Golden Mine Chinese Restaurant (%4787 7609;
64-66 Mosman St; meals $7-17; hlunch Wed-Fri, dinner
daily) All-you-can-eat smorgasbord (lunch/dinner $8/10)
with no fewer than 24 dishes.
GETTING THERE & AWAY

Greyhound Australia (%1300 4739 46863) has a daily

service from Townsville to Charters Towers
($31, 1 hours) continuing on to the NT.
Buses arrive and depart outside the Catholic
church on Gill St.
The train station is on Enterprise Rd, 1.5km
east of the centre. The Inlander runs from
Townsville to Charters Towers on Sunday
and Thursday (adult/child economy seat
$24.20/$12.10, three hours).
Travel Experience.com (%4787 2622; 13 Gill St)
handles travel tickets.

TOWNSVILLE TO MISSION BEACH

Paluma Range National Park

Dont miss the scenic Mt SpecBig Crystal

Creek section of this national park. It straddles
the 1km-plus Paluma Range west of the Bruce
Hwy and has Australias most southerly pocket
of tropical rainforest, with wonderful coastal
views. Its about 62km north of Townsville.

QUEENSLAND

Stub
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St

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TRANSPORT
Train
Long-Distance Bus Stop.........15 B3
Station
Travel Experience.com............16 A2
Allan Oshyer To Townsville
Park
(132km)
g le

Tow

15
St

EATING
Eats and Sweets.....................10 A3
Golden Mine Chinese
Restaurant.........................11 A2
Henry's Cafe & Restaurant.....12 A3
Naturally Good.......................13 B3
Redz......................................14 A3
Stock Exchange Caf.............(see 2)

Na

nR
daw
ay

QUEENSLAND

13
Hodgkinson

La

Hospital

ise Rd
erpr
Ent

1
Gi l l St

3
10 14

Aland St

Ryan St

16

To Towers Hill
Lookout (2km)

Mary St

wn

tte
St

Anne St

Supermarket

2
n S 12
t 5
8

Mill St
Park St

INFORMATION
Charters Towers Computers.....1 B3
Charters Towers Visitor
Information Centre..............2 A3
Library.....................................3 A3

SLEEPING
Park Motel...............................7 B2
Royal Private Hotel..................8 A3
York St B&B.............................9 C3

B oy s t o

Lissner
Park

Vulture St

Cha
rlo

11

t
n S
ek i

Mar
io

eth
St

d
Bur

St
Aplin

400 m
0.2 miles

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Ay Ot Lookout.........................4 B3
Stock Exchange Arcade..........(see 2)
World Theatre.........................5 A3
Zara Clark Museum.................6 A2

t
r S
ate
W

Rd
rse

Swimming
Pool

Showgrounds

To Aussie
Outback
Oasis (600m)

t
r S

St

Blackheath &
Thornburgh
College

St

Eliza
b

St
im
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St

A7

Prio

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Clarke St

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Bri

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63

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Go

Jupiter Mosman
Bicentennial
Monument

cDo
Ma

To Ravenswood (85km);
Townsville (131km);
Plain Creek (180km)

Centenary
Park
Hac

A7

63

St

Ne

St
vue
elle

g
Kin

ple Rd
Dalrymgo
(Gre rytal Rd)
en
Developm

To Bluff Downs (110km);

Undarra Lava Tubes (410km);
Ravenshoe (469km)

t
Baker S

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

Take the northern access route to Big Crystal

Creek, via the 4km road, 2km north of Mt Spec
Rd. Here goannas scamper away from your
approaching footsteps as you walk the few
hundred metres from the picnic area to the
popular Paradise Waterhole. Theres a selfregistration QPWS camping ground (per person/family
$4.50/18) with toilets, gas barbecues and water
(treat before drinking).
The southern access route, Mt Spec Rd is a
dramatic narrow road with lose-your-lunch
twists (unsuitable for caravans) that weaves its
way up the mountains to the village of Paluma.
After 7km you will come to Little Crystal Creek, a
great swimming spot with waterfalls, a couple
of deep rock pools and a small picnic area.
Youll also pass McClellands Lookout, with three
good walking trails.
The Jourama Falls area of the park is 6km
along good unsealed road off the highway. The
signpost is 90km north of Townsville (25km
south of Ingham). Waterview Creek is walking
distance from the falls (600m) and has good
swimming holes with loads of cute turtles,
lookouts, a picnic area and a self-registration
QPWS camping ground (per person/family $4.50/18) with
barbecues. Look out for nocturnal brown bandicoots and Ulysses butterflies.
Accommodation is available at Paluma
Dreaming (%07-4770 8616; d incl cooked breakfast $80)
in rainforest-fringed motel-style rooms run by
a friendly husband and wife team (elephants
welcome on Sunday afternoons apparently!)
and at the delightful, adults-only Forest Mist
Cottage B&B (%07-4770 8578; d incl breakfast $85) with
one cosy room with its own rainforest balcony,
complete with singing whip birds. Rainforest
Inn (%07-4770 8688; www.rainforestinnpaluma.com; d
from $145; a) has spacious new motel-style
accommodation and a licensed restaurant.
Stand-by rates ($125) are available.
On the road to Ingham, Crystal Creek Caravan Park (%07-4770 8140; Spiegelhauer Rd, Mutarnee;
unpowered/powered sites $20/25, on-site vans/cabins $40/55)

sits in the heart of fruit-growing country.

Make sure you stop at Frosty Mango (%07-4770
8184; www.frostymango.com.au; Bruce Hwy; light meals $5-10;
h9am-5pm) at Mutarnee. Its a roadside ice-

creamery serving 33 flavours including jaboticaba (a tree grape) and mango, of course.

Ingham & Around

The clock stopped around 1950 in mellow
Ingham. Youll want to stop here for directions to spectacular Wallaman Falls, which lie

lonelyplanet.com

within Girringun National Park, 50km west of

town. The falls have the longest single drop of
any in Australia at 278m. Its a dazzling sight
in the Wet season. Theres a self-registration
QPWS camping ground (per person/family $4.50/18) with
shower facilities and a swimming hole nearby.
Tyto wetlands, named after the Eastern Grass
Owl (Tyto Capensis), is home to over 160 bird
species plus reptiles, mammals and insects,
and is fast gaining a reputation among the
international bird-watching community. For
information about Wallaman Falls and the
Tyto wetlands, pop into the Tyto Wetlands information centre (%07-4776 5211; www.hinchinbrooknq
.com.au; cnr Townsville Rd & Bruce Hwy; h8.45am-5pm MonFri, 9am-2pm Sat & Sun) or the QPWS office (%07-4777
2822; www.epa.qld.gov.au; Halifax & Bemerside Rd, Ingham;
h9am-5pm Mon-Fri).

With nearly 60% of Ingham residents of

Italian descent, its no wonder the Australian-Italian Festival (www.australianitalianfestival.com
.au), held in mid-May, is touted as the towns
most happening occasion.
Decent coffee ($3.50) can be found at Caf
Fiorellis (%4776 2172; 5-7 Lannercost St). And if staying over, put the oh-so Great Gatsby Noorla
Heritage Resort (%4776 1100; www.hotelnoorla.com
.au; 5-9 Warren St; unpowered/powered sites $15/22, dm $22,
s $55-119, d $59-149; hlunch & dinner; pa) at the

top of your list. A 1920s boarding house, with

parquetry floors, Florentine glass and frescos,
it oozes Art Deco style. The Ceylon tea room is
made for Sunday high teas ($24.50 per person;
bookings essential) and every evening there
are tapas in the stunning arch-windowed bar.
Meals available ($16.50 to $22.50).
Between Ingham and Cardwell, the Bruce
Hwy briefly climbs high above the coast
with tremendous views over the winding,
mangrove-lined waterways known as the Everglades, which separate Hinchinbrook Island
from the coast.
Lucinda, a port town 24km from Ingham,
is the access point for the southern end of
Hinchinbrook Island. Its worth coming down
here just to see the 6km-long jetty used for
shipping sugar.

Cardwell
%07 / pop 11,410

The idling seaside holiday town of Cardwell

is one of north Queenslands oldest towns
(established in 1864), yet theres surprisingly
little to it. The Port Hinchinbrook marina,
2km south of town, is the departure point

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

N O R T H C OA S T T o w n s v i l l e t o M i s s i o n B e a c h 411

CAMPERVANS
Who isnt driving a campervan on Queenslands North Coast and Far North Queensland roads?
Self-contained freedom on four wheels is certainly the transport mode of choice for those
travelling as couples or in groups. It is a hefty initial outlay, but many find it more economical
in the long run although you will have to pay extra to stay at camping grounds in these parts.
There are some unsealed roads, such as those that access Wallaman Falls (opposite). There are
also some seriously winding roads in the Atherton Tableland theres around 280 bends in the
Gilles Hwy between Yungaburra (p442) and Gordonvale. However, getting around is mostly a
cinch and allows flexibility to pull into those roadside stalls brimming with tropical fruit plus
call into a multitude of waterfalls and state parks..
Taking campervans for extended periods can limit your island-hopping (eg its $144 return on
the car ferry between Townsville and Magnetic Island) but theres something innately carefree
about travelling the roads with the windows down.
The Queensland 2007 Caravan Parks & Touring Accommodation Directory (www.caravanqld
.com.au) is a handy and free dashboard companion guide; its available at most visitor information centres in the region.

for Hinchinbrook Island and may awaken

this beachside stretch in years to come. For
travellers with wheels, there are a bunch of
great forest drives, picnic spots and walks with
swimming holes in the area, including the
Cardwell Forest Drive, a 26km round trip.
The QPWS Rainforest & Reef Information Centre
(%4066 8601; www.epa.qld.gov.au; 142 Victoria St; h8am4.30pm), beside the main jetty, has a great rain-

forest interpretive display and information on

Hinchinbrook Island and the drives.
SEASONAL WORK

Cardwell Backpackers Hostel (%4066 8014; cardwell

[email protected]; 178 Bowen St; dm $19-20; ip)

is a busy beehive for seasonal farm workers.

The managers will find work for any international guest who stays here, providing they
have a valid work permit and tax file number.
SLEEPING

Kookaburra Holiday Park (%4066 8648; www.kooka

burraholidaypark.com.au; 175 Bruce Hwy; unpowered/powered
sites $18/20, d $40-95; pas) Set in attractive

tropical grounds, this enormous holiday village almost outsizes Cardwell itself. Theres a
wide range of accommodation.
Hinchinbrook YHA (unpowered sites s/d $11/18, dm/s/d
$18/35/40; ip) Out the back of the Kookaburra Holiday Park is this happy backpackers
with access to the parks fabulous facilities.
oMudbrick Manor (%4066 2299; www.mud
brickmanor.com.au; Lot 13, Stony Creek Rd; s/d incl breakfast
$90/120; asp) The welcome sign at this

mud-brick homestead has genuine intent.

Theres a rustic communal area with a pianola

and accordion for the musically inclined or a

heap of novels to peruse. Spend lazy days on
the veranda overlooking the sprawling paved
courtyard or cooling off in the saltwater pool.
Ask about the three-course dinners ($30 for
three courses).
Cardwells main street options arent all
together alluring so consider going to the
marinas Portside Bar & Grill (%4066 4007; mains
$15.50-28.90) and watch the yachties prepare
their pleasure crafts while you nibble on saltand-pepper squid salad. To get there, follow
the signs to the ferry office. Alternatively, Muddys (%4066 8133; cnr Richard & Victoria St; hlunch &
dinner Tue-Sun) does steaks and even crab and
prawn sandwiches. You cant miss Rocky,
the big crab out the front.
GETTING THERE & AWAY

All buses between Townsville and Cairns stop

at Cardwell: on the Sunlander from Townsville it costs $37.40 (two hours), from Cairns
$37.40 (three hours). Cardwell is also on the
Brisbane to Cairns train line; contact Queensland Rail (%1300 131 722) for details.

Hinchinbrook Island National Park

Lucky you, if you have time to explore this
stunning and unspoiled wilderness. Hinchinbrooks granite mountains rise dramatically from the sea. The mainland side is thick
with lush tropical forest, while long, sandy
beaches and tangled mangroves curve round
its eastern shores. All 399 sq km of the island is national park, and rugged Mt Bowen
(1121m) is its highest peak. Theres plenty of

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410 N O R T H C OA S T T o w n s v i l l e t o M i s s i o n B e a c h

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N O R T H C OA S T M i s s i o n B e a c h 413

wildlife, especially pretty-faced wallabies and

the iridescent-blue Ulysses butterfly.
Hinchinbrook is well known to bushwalkers and naturalists. Walking opportunities
here are outstanding; however, some trails
may close between November and March due
to adverse weather.
The highlight is the Thorsborne Trail, a 32km
track from Ramsay Bay to Zoe Bay (with its
stunning waterfall), and on to George Point at
the southern tip. Its a three- to five-day walk,
although you can walk shorter sections. This
is the real bush experience, however. Youll
need to draw water from creeks as you go (all
water should be chemically purified or boiled
before drinking), keep your food out of reach
of the native bush rats, and keep an eye out for
estuarine crocodiles in the mangroves. Take
plenty of insect repellent.
Along the Thorsborne Trail there are six
QPWS camping grounds (per person/family $4.50/18), plus
the two at Macushla Bay and the Haven in the
north. A limit of 40 people on the main trail at
any one time necessitates booking ahead (up
to one year for school holidays). The largest
group size allowed is six people. Pick up the
Thorsborne Trail and Hinchinbrook leaflets
from the QPWS Rainforest & Reef Information Centre (p411) in Cardwell, or visit www
.queenslandwalks.com.au for more information. To purchase your permits and book a
place, call QPWS (%13 13 04; www.epa.qld.gov.au).
Hinchinbrook Island Wilderness Lodge (%1800

Tully

MISSION BEACH

14,000ft tandem jump from $280) uses the sand of Mis-

%07 / pop 3400

%07 / pop 2985

Tully carries the reputation as the wettest

place in Australia. It holds the record for the
highest annual rainfall in a populated area
of Australia which it won in 1950 when it
received 7.9m. (Its no coincidence that the
Big Gumboot at the entrance to town is also
7.9m tall.). The big excitement here, though, is
spending five frothy hours white-water rafting
its wild river. Walkers also have good reason to stop here, with 150km of tracks, while
other travellers come to pick bananas and
cool off after work at Tully Gorge or Alligators
Nest swimming hole, which despite the name
is safe to swim in, unlike the coastal rivers in
this region.
Rafting day trips on the Tully River with
Raging Thunder Adventures (%4030 7990; www
.ragingthunder.com.au/rafting.asp) or RnR White Water
Rafting (%4041 9444; www.raft.com.au) cost between
$145 and $175 and include barbecue lunch
and transfers from Mission Beach, Cairns or
Port Douglas.
There are good walking opportunities in
the Tully State forests, located 40km from Tully
along Cardstone Rd. There are picnic facilities, as well as river access for swimming at
Tully Gorge. Its also popular with kayakers, and the gentle burble of the Tully River
can turn to rapids when the hydro-electricity
company opens its floodgates. The Tully visitor information centre (%4068 2288; www.tropical

The 14km coastal stretch of Mission Beach

including Wongaling and South Mission
Beaches in the south, Mission Beach in the
middle, and Bingil Bay and beautiful Garners
Beach in the north lures many beach and
rainforest pilgrims, not to mention southern
state escapees seeking an endless summer, and
a caf latte within arms length.
Theres plenty of accommodation options.
Mission Beach, fast becoming the busiest pit
stop between Townsville and Cairns, is at the
crossroads it is a place divided by development. Meanwhile, Mission Beachs signature
species, the endangered southern cassowary
(p414) (seemingly part emu, part aging rocker
with attitude, and a black wiry wig to prove
it) lobs around reminding everyone why they
came here in the first place.
Dunk Island, resembling a sleeping woman
4.5km offshore, is home to a ritzy resort. This
gorgeous island park offers peace and plenty
(according to the areas indigenous people),
or at least the option of a day pass to the berdeluxe resorts pool and restaurant.
To avoid an unexpected meeting with a
croc or stinger, dont swim in any of Mission
Beachs beach creeks stick to the swimming
enclosures provided.

sion Beach to cushion your landing.

Quick Cat (%1800 654 242, 4068 7289; www.quickcat
cruises.com.au; reef trip adult/child $155/78) operates day
cruises to the outer reef, including a 45-minute
stop at Dunk Island, snorkelling, lunch and a
glass-bottom boat jaunt.
Experienced divers should try Calypso Dive
(%4068 8432; www.calypsodive.com; per person from $160),
which runs diving cruises to the Lady Bowen
wreck (maximum 18 passengers).
Rainforest walks around Mission Beach can
get exciting if you meet a cassowary. And if you
fancy meeting an environmental menace, the
wild boar, then the Big Pig Shindig (%4068 8732;

777 021, 07-4066 8270; www.hinchinbrooklodge.com.au; d

$185-350; s) is built into a steep hillside on

australia.com.au; Bruce Hwy; sugar-mill tours adult/child $12/8;

h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2.30pm Sat & Sun) has

www.missionbeachinfo.com; Shop 4, Wongaling Shopping

Centre; h9am-7pm; i) provides information

the islands north affording nearly all rooms

ocean views. Choose from self-contained
beach houses or stylish, elevated tree houses.
Use of the resorts canoes, surf-skis and snorkelling gear is included.

a map of all walking trails and free coffee. It

also books 1-hour tours of Tullys sugar mill
held on Saturday and Sunday at 11am and
1.30pm; children must be over seven years
to do the tour.
Sleeping options include the high-density
Banana Barracks (%4068 0455; www.bananabarracks
.com; 50 Butler St; dm $20-22, s/d $50/52; s) hostel
aimed at working backpackers, with a busy
after-work Rafters bar and budget bistro
meals, or Green Way Caravan Park (%4068 2055;

and books tours and transport, while volunteers at the Wet Tropics Environment Centre

Murray St; unpowered/powered sites $18/20, cabins with/without bathroom $66/50; i) with cabins, camp sites

(%4068 9154, 0419-782 453; www.coralseakayaking.com;

half-/full-day tours $60/93) or simply bob around the

and a communal kitchen.

Greyhound Australia (%1300 4739 46863) calls
into Tully on the BrisbaneCairns route with
six services daily stopping at Tullys Banyan
Park before reaching Mission Beach 25 minutes later. Premier Motor Service (%13 34 10) have
one daily service to Tully on the same route.

coastline for half a day; either way youll fill

your head with new-found knowledge about
the environs. Trips depart from South Mission Beach.
Mission Beach is one of the most popular
spots in Queensland to skydive; Jump the Beach

GETTING THERE & AWAY

Hinchinbrook Island Ferries (%07-4066 8270; www

.hinchinbrookferries.com.au) has a daily service from
May to October and three services a week from
November until the end of January. There is
no ferry service in February and March. Boats
depart from Cardwells Port Hinchinbrook
Marina and dock at the Hinchinbrook Resort.
The journey costs from $90 return (including
lunch). If youre walking the Thorsborne Trail
a one-way transfer costs $66. Walkers usually
pick up the Hinchinbrook Wilderness Safaris (%074777 8307; www.hinchinbrookwildernesssafaris.com.au; one
way/return $46/57) service at the southern end.

Information
Mission Beach Information Station (%4068 8699;

(%4068 7197; www.cassowaryconservation.asn.au; Porters

Promenade, Mission Beach) can inform you about the

areas World Heritage sites.

Sights & Activities

Mission Beach has plenty of activities on
offer, from near-death experiences to more
sedate options. Paddle over to Dunk Island
for the day with eco-friendly Coral Sea Kayaking

(%1800 444 568, 4031 1822; www.jumpthebeach.com;

www.boarbusters.com.au; tours $90; htours at 10am Tue,

Thu & Sat), which involves a hunt for the feral pig

and then a pork chop lunch, is probably one of

the most unlikely tours youll ever encounter.
Were assured its environmentally friendly.
A mountain bike meander is possible through
the Licuala and Tam OShanter state forests
and takes around two hours. The folk at the
Mission Beach Information Station at Wongaling Shopping Centre can offer directions for
the self-guided loop tour. Le Tour Bikes (%4068
9553; Shop 4, Wongaling Shopping Centre) hires out bikes
for $25 a day.

Sleeping
BUDGET

Absolute Backpackers (%1800 688 316, 4068 8317; 28

Wongaling Beach Rd; dm/d/tw $19/45/40; is) Recently refurbished, this two-storey hostel is
close to the Greyhound bus stop. Its nothing
fancy but, like its vodka namesake, the emphasis is on mingling. Beds are comfortable,
according to one backpacker.
Scottys Mission Beach House (%1800 665 567,
4068 8676; www.scottysbeachhouse.com.au; 167 Reid Rd,
Wongaling Beach; dm $20-22, d $47-57; ais) At

the rear of the Hamptons-esque bar and grill,

the vibe here is fun and relaxed, and the pace
is lazy. Expect tiled rooms around a busy pool,
a messy kitchen and, in a stroke of hostel genius, single eggs and slices of bread for sale.
Treehouse (%4068 7137; www.yha.com.au; Frizelle
Rd, Bingil Bay; unpowered sites per person $12, dm/d/tw
$22/55/55; s) Off Bingil Bay Rd, this eco hos-

tel was hit hard by Cyclone Larry in March

2006 but the hard-working operators have
done a remarkable job restoring the split-level
timber enclave, which is fringed by rainforest. A generous balcony is dotted with heavy
wooden tables, banana lounges surround the

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

412 N O R T H C OA S T T o w n s v i l l e t o M i s s i o n B e a c h

414 N O R T H C OA S T M i s s i o n B e a c h

lonelyplanet.com

THE CASSOWARYS PRECIOUS POO

saltwater pool and a resident Labrador makes

for a laid-back place. Treehouse is a YHA-affiliated hostel with a free shuttle bus to Porters
Promenade at selected times.

the view of this apartment making it appear

within swimming distance. Onna Mission is
a spacious aquamarine- and honeycomb-coloured pad with a huge kitchen.
Mission Beach Ecovillage (%4068 7534; www

MIDRANGE

.ecovillage.com.au; Clump Point Rd, Mission Beach; units

$162-178; as) The 17 units are mostly self-

oSanctuary Retreat (%4088 6064, 1800 777

012; www.sanctuaryretreat.com.au; Holt Rd, Bingil Bay; huts
s/d $32.50/65, cabins $148; isp) This eco-

accredited lodge is perched on 20 hecatres of

rainforest overlooking the Coral Sea. Theres
an Iyengar yoga studio ($10 a class), massage room and whole-food restaurant (mains
$13.50 to $23.50). Sleep in a minimalist mosquito mesh hut or one of the more sophisticated cabins with ocean views from the
shower, tree-top balcony and polished floorboards. The earthy owner operators get to
know everyone on a first-name basis, including Barbara, the hang-about cassowary.
Rainforest Motel (%4068 7556; www.missionbeach
rainforestmotel.com; 9 Endeavour Ave, Mission Beach; s/d
$85/89; as) Sleep to the sounds of the trick-

ling waterfall in these spruced-up rooms.

Hibiscus Lodge B&B (%4068 9096; www.hibiscus
lodge.com.au; 5 Kurrajong Close, Wongaling Beach; s/d $85/110;
as) This tidy B&B has three rooms, each

with a private bathroom and DVD player, in

a modern home. Theres a beautifully shaded
pool and a lush lawn made for croquet before
retiring with a complimentary drink. Rates
include a cooked breakfast (changes daily).
Onna Mission (%4068 9920, 0438-689 920; 27 Banfield
Pde, Wongaling Beach; d $130) Dunk Island hovers in

contained with pine walls, slat blinds, tiles

throughout and fans spinning at full throttle.
Deluxe versions have their own pond and spa
but no kitchen, so youre off the hook with
cooking. Loads of palm trees, an emerald
free-form pool and beach access mean this
property lives up to its Far North Queensland
credentials.
TOP END

Also recommended:
Beachcomber Coconut Caravan Village (%1800

Trans North (%4068 7400, 0419-745 875; www.trans

northbus.com; from $3; hMon-Sat) runs local buses

008 129, 4068 8129; [email protected]; Kennedy

Esplanade, South Mission Beach; unpowered/powered sites
$29/31, d cabins $50-120; as) Hawaiian shirtclad
caretakers are busy priming the beachfront cabins and
sites. Ideal for families.
Mission Beach Caravan Park (Porters Promenade;
unpowered/powered sites $12/15) Council-run park; no
advance bookings.

almost every hour (except from 12.30pm to

3.30pm) between Bingil Bay and South Mission Beach until 5.30pm; the visitors centre
has timetables. For a cab, call Mission Beach
Maxi Cab (%0428-689 366).

Eating
Shrubbery Taverna (%4068 7803; David St; mains $17-20;
hlunch Sat & Sun, dinner daily) A firm favourite with
the locals (especially after Sunday siestas), this
inviting place is tucked behind a garden and
shares its sandy position with the beach. The
menu isnt extensive but has Mediterranean
delights like aranccini or Spanish mackerel.
Friends (%4068 7107; Porters Promenade, Mission
Beach; mains $18.50-29.50; hdinner Tue-Sun) As sundown comes, the citronella candles are lit and
the balcony tables glow. Attentive staff cruise
the low-key surrounds, serving Indian fish
curry and sauted prawns.
The Greek Tavern (%4068 8177; 1 Banfield Pde,
Wongaling Beach; mains $20.50-28.50) This timber
beach restaurant maximises every inch of its
view. Dabble in meze or go straight to the
Mediterranean mains.
Blarneys (%4068 8472; 10 Wongaling Beach Rd,
Wongaling; mains $27-32.95; hlunch Sun, dinner Tue-Sat)

Paper gums surround this summery restaurant. The Mod Oz menu includes oysters,
roast duck or a steak-and-tiger-prawn combo
(aka surf n turf).
Also recommended:
Coconutz (%4068 7397; cnr David St & Porters

Coco Loco (%4068 7637; www.cocolocomissionbeach

.com; 73 Holt Rd; d $170; a) Oh-so Santa Fe, this
place is made for couples who want to live
like reclusive rock stars for a couple of days
(two-night minimum stay). Terracotta hues
and organic curves define the self-contained
residence with an aluminium kitchen, pebble
beachfront terrace and track down to Brooks
Beach.

Promenade; meals $10-$22) A lively gathering spot for

perky locals.
Oceania (%4088 6222; Porters Promenade; mains
$21-28) This bar and grill gets consistently good reports.
Piccolos (%4068 7008; David St; meals $10.80-18.50;
hfrom 3pm Tue-Sun) A local says they do the best pizzas
outside of Naples.

CAMPING

Getting There & Around

Dunk Island View Caravan Park (%4068 8248; www

Greyhound Australia (%1300 GREYHOUND, 1300 4739

46863) and Premier Motor Service (%13 34 10)
buses stop at Wongaling Shopping Village in
Wongaling Beach. Average one-way fares are
$29 to Cairns (two hours) and $48 to Townsville (four hours).

.dunkislandviewcaravanpark.com; Webb Rd, Wongaling Beach;

unpowered/powered sites $17/22, units $65-110; ps)

The beach is a leisurely hop, skip and jump

away from your site. Guest laundry, kitchen
and shop.

N O R T H C OA S T D u n k I s l a n d 415

Self-caterers can find supermarkets at Mission Beach and Wongaling.

DUNK ISLAND
Dunk Island is an easy day trip from Mission
Beach. Its just 4.5km off the coast and blessed
with nearly 150 species of bird life and exotic
butterflies in season.
Rainforest walks here will revive the spirit.
From the top of 271m-Mt Kootaloo (5.6km),
entrances to the Hinchinbrook Channel fan
before you, or theres the rewarding but difficult island circuit (9.2km) that passes by
secluded beaches. You can also check out
the alternative lifestyle of Bruce Arthurs Artists
Colony (admission $4; h10am-1pm Mon & Thu).
Day-trippers can purchase a Resort Experience Pass (adult/child $40/20) from the Watersports
Centre just south of the jetty, which entitles
you to lunch, pool access and an hours use
of a paddle ski. Basic food and beverages are
sold at the nearby licensed caf.
The newly revamped Voyages Dunk Island
(%07-4068 8199,1300 134 044; www.voyages.com.au;
s/d from $158/294; as) sits on palm-fringed

Brammo Bay and has rooms ranging from

pretty nice to pretty superb. Think split-level
accommodation, a huge bed, a Balinese spa, a
golf course and personal access to the beach.
Kids, meanwhile, have access to a dedicated
club. Tariffs include breakfast.
The QPWS camping ground (%07-4068 8199;
www.epa.qld.gov.au; per person/family $4.50/18) has
nine sites with good amenities by the resorts
water-sports office.

Getting There & Away

Macair (%13 13 13) has regular flights to/from
Cairns ($190). Mission Beach Dunk Island Connections (%07-4059 2709; www.missionbeachdunk
connections.com.au) does combination bus and
boat transfers to Dunk from Cairns ($64, 2
hours) and Port Douglas ($94, 3 hours).
Return ferry trips (including snorkelling)
from Mission Beach cost about $24/48 per
child/adult with Dunk Island Express Water Taxi
(%07-4068 8310; Banfield Pde, Wongaling) and Dunk
Island Ferry & Cruises (%07-4068 7289; www.dunkferry
.com.au; Clump Point), which also operates a Great
Barrier Reef trip (adult/child $155/78).

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

The flightless cassowary is as tall as a grown man, has three toes, a blue-and-purple head, red
wattles (fleshy lobes hanging from its neck), a helmet-like horn and unusual black feathers, which
look more like ratty hair. Traditional gender roles are reversed with the male bird incubating the
egg and rearing the chicks alone. The Australian cassowary is also known as the southern cassowary, though its only found in the north of Queensland. It begins to make sense when you
realise that other species are found in Papua New Guinea to the north of Australia.
The cassowary is considered a vital link in the rainforest ecosystem. It is the only animal
capable of dispersing the seeds of more than 70 species of trees whose fruits are too large for
other rainforest animals to digest and pass. Cassowaries swallow fruit whole and excrete the
fruits seed intact in large piles of dung, which acts as fertiliser encouraging growth of the seed.
Without this process, the rainforest as we know it would look very different.
The cassowary is an endangered species; its biggest threat is loss of habitat, and eggs and
chicks are vulnerable to dogs and wild pigs. A number of birds are also hit by cars: heed road
signs warning drivers to be cassowary-aware. Youre most likely to see cassowaries around Mission
Beach and the Cape Tribulation section of the Daintree National Park. They can be aggressive,
particularly if they have chicks. If you feel threatened, do not run; instead give the bird right-ofway and try to keep something solid between you and it preferably a tree.

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416 N O R T H C OA S T M i s s i o n B e a c h t o C a i r n s

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You can also get here with Quick Cat or

Coral Sea Kayaking; see p413.

The towns hostels cater to banana plantation workers and travellers, including quirky
Codge Lodge (%4061 8055; 63 Rankin St; dm $25, s/t
$40/60; ais), a superb and clean home
overlooking the river with an outboard motor
doubling as a post box.
Flying Fish Point Beachfront B&B (%4061 8934;

MISSION BEACH TO CAIRNS

The scenery from Mission Beach to Cairns is
wonderfully fertile. North of El Arish, you can
leave the Bruce Hwy and take an alternative
route to Innisfail via quaint Silkwood and
Mena Creek, buried in sugar cane about 20km
southwest of Innisfail.
At Mena Creek, eco-certified Paronella Park

with the enchanting ruins of a Spanish-style

castle hand-built in the 1930s. Floods, fire and
the moist tropics have rendered these mossy
remains almost medieval. Tours, featuring
indigenous dancing, run regularly and theres
a caravan park attached (unpowered/powered
sites $22/24).
If you want to know more about sugar
processing, steam trains and the slave-labour
heritage of the industry, pop by the Australian
Sugar Industry Museum (%07-4063 2656; Bruce Hwy;
adult/child/family $8/6/22; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm
Sun May-Oct, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat, 9am-noon Sun
Nov-Apr) at Mourilyan, 7km south of Innisfail.

Innisfail
%07 / pop 10,000

A prosperous farming town bathed in sunlight and draped with banana plantations,
Innisfail is perched by the wide Johnstone
River. The town has a surprising array of fine
architecture thanks to cyclone reconstruction
at the fever pitch of the sleek 1920s and 30s
Art Deco movement. Fast forward 88 years
and the town was in repair mode again following Cyclone Larrys devastating blow in
March 2006.
The visitor information centre (%4063 2655; Bruce
Hwy; %9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun), 8km
south of town, has a town-walk brochure.
Johnstone River Crocodile Farm (%4061 1121;
www.crocfarm.com; Flying Fish Point Rd; adult/child $18/9;
h8.30am-4.30pm, feeding times 11am & 3pm) breeds

thousands of crocodiles that are recycled as

handbags and steak. Tours run frequently
(from 9.30am) where you can watch one of
the guides sit on one-tonne Gregory the
farms fattest reptile.
Neat and tidy Barrier Reef Motel (%4061
4988; www.barrierreefmotel.com.au; Bruce Hwy; s/d $84/94;
ais) has small rooms and a restaurant.

with water views from every angle. With its

yin and yang garden, youll feel very Zen,
and no doubt a whole lot further than just
7km from Innisfail. Nearby, vibrant Flying
Fish Point Van Park (%4061 3131; www.ffpvanpark
.com.au; 39 Elizabeth St; unpowered/powered sites $20/24,
cabins from $75) is within easy access to an excel-

lent fishing haunt where the Johnstone River

meets the sea.
Jagads (%4061 1480; 49 Edith St; meals $5-10.50;
hbreakfast & lunch) does affordable hot and
cold meals and the air-con surrounds attract
lunching locals in droves. Theres also a juice
bar attached. Soak up the blue of the Johnstone River at the Imperial Tavern (%4061 1400;
cnr Grace St & Fitzgerald Esplanade), a popular afterwork haunt.
Greyhound Australia (%1300 4739 46863; www
.greyhound.com.au) calls into Innisfail on the
BrisbaneCairns route with six services daily
stopping at King George St. Premier Motor Service (%13 34 10) have one daily service to Innisfail on the same route.
From Innisfail the Palmerston Hwy winds
west up to the magical Atherton Tablelands,
passing through the rainforest of Palmerston
(Wooroonooran National Park), which has creeks,
waterfalls, scenic walking tracks and a selfregistration camping ground (per person/family
$4.50/18) at Henrietta Creek, just off the road.
Australias ancient landscape may not
boast Himalayan highs, but Queenslands
highest peak, Mt Bartle Frere (1657m), is
definitely a challenging climb. Sitting inside
Wooroonooran National Park, it falls within
the dramatic Bellenden Ker range, which
skirts the Bruce Hwy between Innisfail and
Cairns. Experienced walkers can embark on
the Mt Bartle Frere Summit Track (15km, two
days return), which leads from the Josephine
Falls car park to the summit. Theres also an
alternative 10km (eight-hour) return walk
to Broken Nose. Its best that you dont walk
alone and always let someone know before
you go. Pick up a trail guide from the nearest visitors centre or contact QPWS (%13 13 04;

G U L F S AVA N N A H G e t t i n g T h e re & A r o u n d 417

WHEN LARRY SHOWED UP

It was a typical Sunday in Innisfail on 19 March 2006. Families frolicked at waterfalls, communities
gathered at festivals and farmers irrigated their crops. But by the following Monday morning,
Cyclone Larry, a Category Four storm, had ripped the faades and roofs off buildings, battered
neighbourhoods, stripped rainforests and flattened fields at its ferocious 290km/h pace.
Unbelievably, no-one died due to the speedy cyclone preparedness alerts, and sheer good
fortune. But the clean up would be massive: estimates suggest 15 years worth of green vegetation
growth and 350,000 cubic metres of mangled steel, household glass and remnant infrastructure
were disposed of. In Innisfail shire alone, 300 homes were uninhabitable after Cyclone Larry
came knocking.
Cyclone Larry also devastated the wider area between Cardwell and Cairns. Wildlife habitat
corridors were affected. The cyclone left some areas of rainforest extensively damaged and the
canopy destroyed. Increased light on the forest floor allowed invasive flora to intrude, thus
changing the biological make-up in key habitats.
The reality hit home with Australians elsewhere when bananas became scarce and prohibitively
expensive: indeed 80% of Australias banana crop was lost in what was the most damaging storm
to hit the nations shores in 30 years.
With climate change and the threat of more frequent cyclones in years to come, Far North
Queenslands residents and leaders are under no illusions that living in paradise can comes with
a price. At the time of writing, Mission Beach tourism operators recalled horror damage bills but
were proud of their clean-up achievements and deservedly so. Innisfail was still being repaired
but amazing progress had been made. People have always stopped to chat with one another
here in what has been described as a real town by one local. In some ways, the 2006 cyclone
galvanised this growing community even more. And the influx of builders who came to help
with repairs well, some of them are staying on too.

www.epa.qld.gov.au, www.queenslandwalks.com.au). Selfregistration camping (per person/family $4.50/18) is

permitted along the trail.

GULF SAVANNAH
This is fair dinkum country, far beyond the
squared pavements of the coastal cities; so
remote, so devoid of the clamours of urban
society that the weight of the sky falls heavily
on the eyes and you can almost hear the bark
peeling off the trees. In essence, you become
part of the minimalist landscape. The small
former mining towns out here have little
more than a pub and a few houses, but the
landscapes are incomparable sweeping grass
plains, scrubby forest and intricate networks
of seasonal rivers and tidal creeks that drain
into the Gulf of Carpentaria. There are just
two seasons that define Savannah life: the
Wet (December to April) and the Dry (May
to November).
Savannah stock are laconic and generous
people who dont hesitate to wave to travellers driving around with self-sufficiency on
their towbars. Indeed, driving is the best way

to see the Gulf Savannah but dont expect

a gentle meander through the suburbs
during the Wet, dirt roads turn to muck
and sealed roads can be flooded, and mobile phone service is unreliable at best. This
is Australias quintessential outback, a true
frontier, which also just happens to have
some of the planets best fishing and enviable weather for six months of the year.
For more information visit www.savannah
way.com.au

Getting There & Around

AIR

Macair (%13 13 13) has services travelling between Cairns and Normanton, Burketown
and Mornington Island; and between Mt Isa
and Normanton and Burketown.
BUS

Transnorth (%1300 4739 46863, 07-4036 9250; www

.transnorthbus.com) runs a service from Cairns to
Karumba via the Tablelands and onto Mt Surprise, Georgetown, Croydon, Blackbull and
Normanton. This service departs Cairns on
Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 6.30am,
arriving in Karumba at 6.15pm. The Karumba

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

(%07-4065 3225; www.paronellapark.com.au; Japoonvale

Rd; entry plus tour adult/child/student $26/13/23.50; h9am7.30pm, night tour at 6.20pm) is a rambling garden

www.beachfrontbnb.com.au; 3 Alice St, Flying Fish Point;

s/d $100/140; pas) is a secluded nook

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418 G U L F S AVA N N A H T h e S a v a n n a h W a y

to Cairns service operates on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday departing at 6.30am and
arriving at Cairns at 6.15pm.
There are two main roads into the Gulf region.
The Savannah Way (or Gulf Developmental
Rd) takes you from the Kennedy Hwy, south of
the Atherton Tablelands, across to Normanton
on 450km of sealed road. The Burke Developmental Rd (Matilda Hwy) runs north from
Cloncurry to Normanton (378km sealed) via
the Burke & Wills Roadhouse, but its mostly
single-lane traffic and driving requires good
concentration. Road trains (the length of 10
cars) have right of way that means you pull
on to the shoulder of the road and, if necessary, stop. Pick up a copy of outback Queensland: Survive the Drive (www.mainroads.qld
.gov.au) at visitor information centres for
more information.
Other Savannah roads are unsealed so seek
advice on road conditions, fuel stops and
what to carry with you (plenty of water!). The
RACQ (%1300 130 595; www.racq.com.au; cnr Mulgrave
Rd & Aplin St) in Cairns is an excellent source of
information.
TRAIN

The Queensland Rail (%1300 131 722) Gulflander

connects Normanton and Croydon (economy seat $58, 3 hours) each Wednesday at
8.30am (arriving in Croydon at 1.30pm) and
returns every Thursday at the same time. This
service operates from early February to early
December (weather permitting).
The historic Savannahlander conducts
four-day tours (%07-4036 9250, 07-4036 9341; www
.savannahlander.com.au) along its traditional route
from Cairns to Forsayth between March and
mid-December (weather permitting) with
coach connections to Chillagoe, Undara
Lava Tubes and Cobbold Gorge. Rates vary
depending on the accommodation and tours
you book, so call for details.

THE SAVANNAH WAY

Undara Volcanic National Park

The massive Undara lava tubes the worlds
longest molten-rock tunnels, running up
to 160km underground are one of inland
Queenslands most fascinating natural attractions. They were formed around 190,000 years
ago following a three-month eruption of a
single shield volcano. The massive lava flows

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G U L F S AVA N N A H N o r m a n t o n t o C l o n c u r r y 419

drained towards the sea, following the routes

of ancient river beds, and while the surface of
the lava cooled and hardened, hot lava continued to race through the centre of the flows,
eventually leaving enormous basalt tubes.
You may only visit the tubes with Savannah
Guides (%08-8985 3890; www.savannah-guides.com.au),
which runs full-day tours (adult/child including lunch $100/50), half-day tours ($65/35)
and two-hour introductory tours ($35/17)
from the lodge.
Sitting 275km west of Cairns, the facilities for campers are excellent at Undara Experience (%1800 990 992, 07-4097 1411; www.undara

adult/child $110/55), which also provides accommodation at Cobbold Village (unpowered/powered

sites $13/22, s/d cabins $60/80; as). Tours include

Ltd store houses the visitor information centre

and library (%4745 1065; cnr Caroline & Landsborough

a boat cruise, agate fossicking, croc spotting,

a barbecue lunch and swimming.
The loop finishes at Georgetown (population 300), back on the Savannah Way. There
are several places to stay, two supermarkets,
a good bakery, a public swimming pool (free
entry), fuel, and mechanical and tyre repairs.
Theres internet access at the Terrestrial Centre (%07-4062 1485; www.etheridge.qld.gov.au; Low

with internet access ($2 per 30 minutes).

The Normanton Tourist Park (%4745 1121; 14

.com.au; unpowered/powered sites $16/24, f tents $60, dm/

s/d $25/100/150; s), but the railway carriages

information on Mt Surprise, Einasleigh and

Forsayth. Internet access is $4 an hour.

Motel-style rooms and counter meals.

Gulfland Motel & Caravan Park (%4745 1290; 11
Landsborough St; unpowered/powered sites $16/20, s/d
$80/90; as) Has a licenced restaurant.

Croydon

Karumba

%07 / pop 295

%07 / pop 1350

For a while there in the 1880s, everything you

touched turned to gold in Croydon. Once the
Vegas of the Gulf Savannah, it was crammed
with bars and 8000 budding millionaires but
the riches ran dry towards the end of WWI
and the town became a shadow of its former
self.
Croydons information centre (%4745 6125; cnr
Samwell & Aldridge Sts; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri Nov-Mar; i),
museum, craft shop and internet caf ($2.50
per 30 minutes) are housed in the historic
police station alongside several other restored
buildings. The centre conducts one-hour walking tours (%4745 6125; adult/child $5.50/free; htours
at 8am, 10am, 2pm & 4pm).
You can sleep on the veranda at the Club
Hotel (%4745 6184; cnr Brown & Sircom Sts; s $40, d $50-75;
as). Its a corrugated-iron pub with heaps
of character, basic rooms and meals and, bless
them, a pool!

Karumba may be a remote fishing village,

but more and more travellers come here to
watch dreamy sunsets melt into the Arafura
Sea over seafood platters. Its on the Gulf of
Carpentaria, 79km from Normanton by a
good, sealed, dual-carriageway road. Karumba
is part of Aussie fishing folklore among blokey
types who keep company with barramundi
and saltwater crocodiles, or dabble in prawn
fishing. Grey nomads escaping chilly winters
in the southern states also make a beeline to
this no-frills town fringed by wetlands their
caravan park chatter competes with the flocks
brolgas and cyrus cranes flying overhead.
Theres a great bakery in town and a mobile grocery truck does the rounds for selfcaterers, but youll end up at the legendary
Sunset Tavern (%4745 9183; the Esplanade, Karumba
Point; mains $11-25; h10am-midnight), which serves
excellent meals outdoors.
Accommodation options include Savannah
Shores (%4745 9126; the Esplanade Point; s/d $65/71;
as), with good self-contained cabins on
the foreshore, and Gulf Country Van Park (%/fax

(adult/child $75/38) are a beautifully restored

(but sometimes hot) sleeping variation (ask
about the meal packages). Bush breakfasts are
outdoors with billy tea and birdsong. The bistro serves lunch and dinner, but self-caterers
must bring all supplies. Two-hour tours run
year-round, several times daily (adult/child
$38/20).

Undara to Croydon
The side trips to tiny towns are what make
this stretch across the Savannah woodland so
memorable. Mt Surprise is 319km southwest
of Cairns and 393km east of Normanton on
the Gulf Development Rd; here youll find
the regions oldest building, the Old Post Office
Museum (%07-4062 3126; adult/child $2/50c), which
has a small and quirky display of local history
items. This is also a centre for gem fossicking,
and local businesses can give you tips, tools
and a licence to dig for the semi-precious
stones. Accommodation options include two
caravan parks and the Mt Surprise Hotel (%074062 3118; s/d $30/50; mains $13-15; hlunch & dinner).
Bedrock Village Caravan Park (%07-4062 3193; www
.bedrockvillage.com.au; Garnet St, Mt Surprise; unpowered/
powered sites $16/22, s $32, cabins $58-78; as) has

excellent self-contained accommodation and

sites set on 3.6 hectares of bush. Daily tours
($110) to the Undara Lava Tubes, departing
Bedrock at 7.30am, are run by an accredited
Savannah guide.
You can take the 150km Explorers Loop
southwest from Mt Surprise to the old goldmining townships of Einasleigh and Forsayth.
Spectacular Cobbold Gorge is 45km south of
Forsayth, but can only be explored on a
guided day with Cobbold Gorge Tours (%1800
669 922, 07-4062 5470; www.cobboldgorge.com.au; day tours

St; adult/child/concession $10/3/8; h8am-5pm Apr-Sep,

8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri Oct-Mar; i), which also has

Normanton
%07 / pop 2500

Youve hit the big smoke at Normanton,

a bustling centre with a handful of historic
buildings, including the Gulflanders classic
Victorian-era train station. The town was
established on Norman River as a port for
the Cloncurry copper fields before becoming
Croydons gold-rush port. June is an excellent time to stop and enjoy the areas biggest
social event, the Normanton Rodeo & Gymkhana.
Otherwise, croc spotting, cloud watching,
barramundi fishing and a beer at the Purple
Pub (%4745 1324; cnr Landsborough & Brown Sts) are
big pastimes. The historic Burns Philip & Co

Sts; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Tue, 9am-2pm Sat; i)

Brown St; unpowered/powered sites $20/22, dm $25, cabins $78;
as) is a very pleasant park with excellent

cabins, some of which have bathrooms, and

a huge shaded swimming pool and artesian
spa.
More accommodation:
Albion Hotel (%4745 1218; Haig St; s/d $55/60; a)

4745 9148; cnr Yappar St & Massey Dr; unpowered/powered

sites $19/22, s/d $40/60; s), a shady park with good

amenities.

NORMANTON TO CLONCURRY
Youll enjoy this beautiful stretch of savannah land and red-rock country on the Matilda Hwy. Everyone stops at the Burke & Wills
Roadhouse (%07-4742 5909; unpowered/powered sites
$14/18, s/d/tr $45/55/75; h7am-10pm; a) halfway to
Cloncurry, for tucker and fuel, and then pop
into the Quamby Hotel (%07-4742 5952; r $25; a),

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

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420 G U L F S AVA N N A H N o r m a n t o n t o N o r t h e r n Te r r i t o r y

further on, for a cleansing beer. The hotel has

one room and meals ($10 to $12) are served if
weary travellers scream loudly enough.
See p376 for information about sleeping
and eating options in Cloncurry.

While driving the unsealed, isolated, dusty

stretch from Normanton to the NT, keep in
mind that mad, ill-equipped explorers such
as the doomed Burke and Wills walked twice
these distances in summer. You can visit Camp
119, the northernmost camp of their wretched
1861 expedition. Its signposted 37km west of
Normanton.
If you make it to Burketown, give yourself a
clap. European settlers were no match for this
feisty place and died in droves; check out the
cemetery. These days, its a favourite hang-out
for cattle and travellers who have read Nevil
Shutes A Town Like Alice, part of which is set
here. From late September to early November
you can see the extraordinary natural phenomenon known as Morning Glory: incredible tubular cloud formations extending the
full length of the horizon that roll in from the
Gulf of Carpentaria in early morning. It only
occurs here and in the Gulf of Mexico.
Locals at the 130-year-old Burketown Pub
(%07-4745 5104; Beames St; dm/s/d $10/38/55, units $79100; a) like a fresh face and a chat.
The Doomadgee Aboriginal Community (%074745 8188), 93km west of Burketown, has a retail

area and welcomes visitors, but village access

is at the discretion of the community council.
Further along is Hells Gate, the last outpost of
police protection for settlers heading north to
Katherine in pioneer times. It was the scene
of many ambushes as indigenous Australians
tried to stop their lands being overrun.

BURKETOWN TO CAMOOWEAL

You may not have planned a stop at Gregory

Downs, but chances are youll find the pristine
Gregory River, its banks covered in luxuriant,
ancient rainforest, too beautiful to pass by.
Its 117km south of Burketown on the sealed
Wills Developmental Rd, which becomes the
Gregory Downs Camooweal Rd. Boodjamulla
(Lawn Hill) National Park is a two-hour drive
inland from here on a mostly well-graded,
unsealed road.
The friendly Gregory Downs Hotel (%07-4748
5566; [email protected]; s/d $75/85; a), at

the main turn-off to Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill)

National Park, has motel-style units and fuel.
Its possible to camp free on the riverbank, but
there are no amenities.
Billy Hangers General Store (%07-4748 5540;
h 8am-6pm Jun-Oct), opposite the pub, is
crammed with goodies.

Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park

In arid country some 100km west of Gregory
Downs lies this prehistoric oasis of gorges,
ancient rainforest, crystal-clear green waters,
creeks and tropical vegetation that indigenous
Australians have enjoyed for perhaps 30,000
years. Remains of their paintings and camp
sites are everywhere, and you can visit two
rock-art sites.
In the southern part of the park is the
World Heritagelisted Riversleigh Fossil Field.
Some of the fossils are up to 25 million years
old and include everything from giant snakes
to carnivorous kangaroos.
Boodjamulla has 20km of walking tracks
and an excellent national-park camping ground
(%13 13 04, 07-4748 5572; www.epa.qld.gov.au; per person/
family $4.50/18) with tables, toilets and showers.

You must book well in advance with the park

rangers (April to September). Paddling up
the creek gives a wondrous perspective of the
gorge and swimming near the waterfalls is
heavenly. Hire canoes from Adels Grove.
Adels Grove (%07-4748 5502; www.adelsgrove.com
.au; unpowered sites $20, family $22, s/d $95/160) ecosensitive tourist park is 10km east of the
Lawn Hill entrance, set in lush surrounds by
the parks creek. In addition to camp sites,
there are permanent tents with beds and linen.
Rates at these include dinner and breakfast.
Fuel, basic groceries and tent hire are also
available.
Kingfisher Camp (%07-4745 8212; www.kingfisher
resort.com.au; unpowered sites $16) is 142km north from
Boodjamulla and 33km from Bowthorn Station
Homestead. It has 30 grassy camp sites maintained by caretakers; all drinking water here
must be boiled. Half-day boat hire is $50.
GETTING THERE & AWAY

The national park is 100km west of Gregory

Downs, although the easiest route for 2WD
vehicles is to come via the Burke & Wills
Roadhouse. If youre coming from Mt Isa,
the last 230km after you leave the Barkley
Hwy are unsealed and often impassable after
rain, and a 4WD vehicle is necessary.

lonelyplanet.com

Campbells Tours & Travel (%07-4743 2006; www

.campbellstravel.com.au) in Mt Isa does a three-day
safari (adult/child $660/330) out to Boodjamulla and Riversleigh on Tuesday and Friday
(April to October), with accommodation and
meals provided at Adels Grove.

FAR NORTH
QUEENSLAND
Tropical, wild and rugged, Queenslands Far
North proves the theory that size doesnt matter. Although small geographically, this stunning destination contains the richest pockets
of biodiversity in Australia, if not the world.
The dense and ancient rainforests of the Wet
Tropics World Heritage Area coat the landscape, spilling out onto gorgeous beaches.
Offshore lies the majestic Great Barrier Reef
Marine Park, which is threatened by climate
change and the effects of coral bleaching. The
highland region of the Atherton Tablelands
forms a leafy backdrop to the coast, concealing volcanic crater lakes, waterfalls and giant
strangled fig trees. Heading north is historic
Cooktown, beyond which lie the dusty isolation of Cape York and the very tip of Australia, Cape York Peninsula.
Locals speak reverently about their region
and will look at you with undisguised pity if
youre from down south, which could mean
only as far as Townsville. Many conform
to the stereotype of the real Australian: a
THE COST OF PRICELESSNESS
Reports have suggested that, at the
current rate of global warming, the Great
Barrier Reef will suffer coral bleaching due
to warmer, more acidic waters. With the
Great Barrier Reef contributing $5.8 billion in tourism dollars and sustaining the
equivalent of 63,000 full-time jobs, this has
serious economic and social implications
for Australia. Indeed, saving the reef from
coral bleaching, and sediment from river
run-off, which hinders photosynthesis, has
become a call to arms for the scientific, corporate and wider community. But it surely is
a global responsibility to protect this environmental showcase, the largest and most
pristine reef in the world.

FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D C a i r n s 421

singlet-wearing tough guy in an Akubra hat,

whose idea of dressing up is to change into
a newer pair of thongs. Common to most,
however, is a genuine respect for their fragile
environment, where human impact is closely
checked.
Far North Queensland is one of Australias
leading tourism hot spots and accommodation prices tend to spike during peak tourism (June to October); expect some prices
quoted here to rise by up to 30% during these
months.

CAIRNS
%07 / pop 120,483

Boasting an infectious energy and a lush

tropical setting, Cairns is unashamedly a
tourist town, and its popularity is global.
On Cairns foreshore, Korean bird-watchers
swivel 15cm lenses, local ladies aqua dance
at the very public lagoon pool, Islander
families share picnics and fitness types jog
along the Esplanade where pelicans cavort
on mudflats. Overhead, planes take off
with amazing frequency, and yet the strawsucking sound of geckos still lingers in the
air. But mostly crowds come to visit the Great
Barrier Reef, which sits offshore and shapes
the citys character. Its one of the worlds
most popular diving sites and the number of
tour/dive/snorkel/cruise operators operating
here is mind-boggling. Cairns can offer you
bungee jumping before breakfast, as well as
tours to the Atherton Tablelands, Port Douglas and beyond. In between all this fun, youll
discover its a popular place to hook up with
fellow travellers.
Old-timers go misty-eyed when they talk
about old Cairns and lament its getting too
big for its boots but the satellite suburbs that
surround the tourism inner sanctum continue
to grow, and each week at least 50 new residents arrive in Cairns, each chasing a dream.

Orientation
Cairns CBD sits between the Esplanade and
McLeod St, and Wharf and Aplin Sts. Reef
Fleet terminal is the main departure point
for reef trips. Cairns train station is hidden
inside the Cairns Central Shopping Centre on
McLeod St. Local buses (Sunbus) leave from
the Lake St Transit Centre. Greyhound and
other regional buses leave from Pier Marketplace car park on Fogarty Park Rd near the
iconic Lagoon.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

NORMANTON TO NORTHERN
TERRITORY

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SHOPPING
St of Contemporary
Centre
rt
DRINKING
EATING
po Arts...........................(see 23)
m
Asian Foods Australia.............56 E2
Cairns Yacht Club............76 F2 Co City Place Disposals..........88 E2
Beethoven Caf......................57 E2
Court House Hotel...........77 F2
Green House.................(see 62)
Cherry Blossom......................58 F2 Portsmith
Fox & Firkin...................(see 86) Mud Markets................(see 71)
Coffee Shop...........................59 F3
Gilligan's ......................(see 47) Night Markets..................89 E2
Edge......................................60 A2 Inbox C@fe .....................(see 9) Tanks Arts Centre..........(see 85)
St
Fusion Organics......................61 E2
PJ O'Briens....................(see 95)
k
oo
Gaura Nitais...........................62 E3
Shenannigans...................78 E3
CTRANSPORT
La Fettuccina..........................63 E2
Tides.............................(see 50) Bandicoot Bicycles...........90 D4
Lillipad....................................64 E2
Bike Man.........................91 D5
Mangostin's...........................65 F2
Britz Australia...................92 B1
ENTERTAINMENT
Marinades..............................66 F2
Cairns City Cinemas.........79 E2
Cairns Bicycle Hire............93 E2
Central Cinemas..............(see 3) Europcar...........................94 E2
Matsuri...................................67 E2
Neil's Organics.......................68 C3 Fetish 4 Life......................80 E2
Lake St Transit Centre......95 E2
Night Markets......................(see 89) JUTE Cinema Sunday....(see 23) Qantas.............................96 E2
O Cha Cha.............................69 F2
JUTE Theatre.................(see 23) Reef Fleet Terminal..........97 F5
Orchid Plaza...........................70 F2
Johno's Nightclub & Bar...81 E2
Sheridan Rent A Car........ 98 D5
Perrottas at the Gallery........(see 22) Met Bar............................82 F2
Taxi Stand........................99 E3
Phuket Thai Seafood
Nu-Trix............................83 E3
Taxi Stand......................100 E2
Restaurant.......................(see 61) Soho................................84 F2
White Car Coaches
Admiralty 87)
Pier........................................71 F2
Tanks Arts Centre............85 A2
Terminus...................(see
Island

Red Ochre Grill................72

Rusty's Market.................73
Tiny's Juice Bar.................74
Woolworths.....................75

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Tropic Days........................... 55

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INFORMATION
Absells Chart & Map Centre...1 E2
Accom Cairns........................ 2 D5
Angus & Robertson............... 3 D5 To Royal Automobil Club
Australia Post.........................4 F3
of Queensland (3km);
Cannon Park
Bookshelf...............................5 E2
Racecourse (3km);
Cairns Base Hospital.............. 6 D4 Cairns Coconut Caravan
Cairns City 24 Hour Medical
Resort (6km);
Townsville (350km)
Centre................................7 E1
Cairns Museum.................(see 21)
Cairns Travel Clinic.................8 F3
Mike Ball Dive Expeditions..28
Call Station.............................9 E2
Muddy's Playground..........29
Destination Cairns................10 E2
Pro-Dive.............................30
Exchange Bookshop.............11 E2
Reef Teach.........................31
Gateway Discovery Centre...12 F2
Skydive Cairns....................32
Global Gossip......................(see 9)
Tusa Dive........................... 33
Inbox C@fe..........................(see 9)
Peterpan Adventure Travel...13 E2
SLEEPING
Police Station........................14 E3
201 Lake Street................. 34
QPWS..................................15 E3
Balinese............................. 35
Bungalow
RACQ................................. 16 D5
Bay Village........................ 36
STA Travel............................17 E2
Bohemia Central.................37
Thomas Cook.......................18 F2
Bohemia Resort.................. 38
Trailfinders...........................19 E2
Cairns Central.................... 39
Travelex...............................20 E2
Cairns Girls Hostel..............40
Cairns Holiday Park............ 41
Cairns International............42
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Cairns Dive Centre.............(see 94)
Cairns Sharehouse............. 43
Cairns Museum....................21 E2
Discovery Resort................ 44
Cairns Regional Gallery........22 F2
Figtree Lodge.................... 45
Floriana............................. 46
Centre of Contemporary
Gilligan's............................ 47
Arts....................................23 E1
Coral Sea Diving Company...24 F3
Ryan's Rest........................ 48
Deep Sea Divers Den........... 25 C5
Serpent.............................. 49
Down Under Dive................ 26 D5
Shangri-La..........................50
Cannon Park
Explorer
Ventures/Nimrod... 27 D5
Shooting Star..................... 51

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To Northern Beaches (16km);

AJ Hackett Bungee & Minjin (16km);
Tjapukai Cultural Park (16km);
Crystal Cascades (21km);
Port Douglas (68km);
Mossman (112km);
Cape Tribulation (138km)

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0.5 miles

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424 FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D C a i r n s

Information

lonelyplanet.com

BOOKSHOPS

SEASONAL WORK

Absells Chart & Map Centre (%4041 2699; Andrejic

Cairns is one of the most popular places

on the East Coast to pick up casual work in
the tourism and hospitality sectors. Those
bilingual in Japanese, Korean and German
can pick up tour/translating work. And, of
course, Cairns is a magnet for dive instructors and the like.
For those planning to stick around in
Cairns for a month or more to work, dive
or study, Cairns Sharehouse (%4041 1875;

Arcade, 55 Lake St) Extensive range of topographic,

nautical and area maps.
Angus & Robertson (%4041 0591; Shop 141, Cairns
Central Shopping Centre, McLeod St) Large chain store.
Bookshelf (%4051 8569; 95 Grafton St; h9am-6pm
Mon-Fri, 9am-1.30pm Sat) Secondhand books. Proceeds go
to a womens shelter.
Cairns Museum (%4051 5582; cnr Lake & Shields Sts)
Books on the regions history, as well as local authors works.
Exchange Bookshop (%4051 1443; www.exchange
bookshop.com; 78 Grafton St) New, secondhand and
foreign language books.

53 Minnie St; www.cairns-sharehouse.com; s per week

$100-150, tw & d per person, per week $90-130;
as) is a good option. Three weeks rent
is required up front.

EMERGENCY

Ambulance, Fire & Police (%000; h24hr)

Police Station (%4030 7000; Sheridan St)
Internet access costs from $2 to $5 per hour
and is available at most hostels and hotels.
Call Station (%4052 1572; 123 Abbott St)
Global Gossip (%4031 6411; www.globalgossip.com;
125 Abbott St)

Inbox C@fe (%4041 4677; www.inboxcafe.com.au;

TRAVEL AGENCIES

119 Abbott St)

Peterpan Adventure Travel (%1800 632 632; www

cnr Florence & Grafton Sts)

Cairns Travel Clinic (%4041 1699; [email protected]
.au; 15 Lake St)

.peterpans.com; Level 1, 90-92 Lake St) Also has internet

access ($2 per hour).
STA Travel (%4031 4199; 9 Shields St)
Trailfinders (%1300 651 900, 4041 1199; www
.trailfinders.com.au; Hides Corner, Lake St)
Travstar.com (%1300 554 636, 4041 3409; www
.travstar.com) Local online travel agency specialising in
the region.

MONEY

Sights

Most of the major banks have branches with

ATMs and foreign exchange.
Thomas Cook (%4031 3040; 13 Spence St)
Travelex (%1800 720 197; 50 Lake St)

The undisputed highlight of the Cairns Foreshore Promenade is the 4800-sq-m saltwater
swimming lagoon, a feat in landscape architecture bringing the beach-cum-swimming
experience to the heart of the city. Sun-smart
families mix it up with backpackers going a
darker shade of brown. Fitness enthusiasts
blade, cycle or just walk the 3km Esplanade
Walking Trail, and travellers meander lazily
up and down the Esplanade, popping into
restaurants and shops until the wee hours.
Flecker Botanic Gardens (%4044 3398; Collins Ave,

MEDICAL SERVICES

Cairns Base Hospital (%4050 6333; the Esplanade)

Has 24-hour emergency service.

Cairns City 24 Hour Medical Centre (%4052 1119;

POST

Australia Post (%13 13 18; www.auspost.com; 13

Grafton St)
TOURIST INFORMATION

There are dozens of privately run information centres (these are basically tour-booking
agencies), but the following offer unbiased
information:
Gateway Discovery Centre (%4051 3588; www
.tropicalaustralia.com.au; 51 the Esplanade; h8.30am6.30pm) Government run.

Edge Hill; h7.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm Sat

& Sun), northwest of the city centre, are domi-

nated by the magnificent rainforest, but

there are also plots of bush-tucker plants and
the Gondwanan Evolutionary Trail, which

begins the 415-million-year heritage of tropical plants from blue-green algae (Quaternary)
and reaches its standing ovation in the Age of
Angiosperms (now). Hour-long guided walks
(adult/child under 14yr $11.50/free; htours at 1pm Mon-Fri)

through the gardens are available. Theres a

licensed caf dripping in foliage.
Opposite the gardens the Rainforest Boardwalk leads to Saltwater Creek and Centenary Lakes.
For more serious walkers, the trails throughout Mt Whitfield Conservation Park have several
lookouts offering views of Cairns and Trinity
Inlet, and there is a terrific mangrove boardwalk
on Airport Ave, 200m before the airport.
Owned and run by indigenous Australians,
the terrific Tjapukai Cultural Park (%4042 9999;
www.tjapukai.com.au; Kamerunga Rd, Carevonica; adult/child/
family $31/15.50/72.50, incl transfers $52.50/26.25/131.25;
h9am-5pm) combines interesting aspects of

indigenous culture with show biz. It includes

the Creation Theatre, which tells the story of
creation using giant holograms and actors;
theres also a Dance Theatre, and boomerangand spear-throwing demonstrations (have a
go!). The shop has authentic work from across
the country.
Cairns Regional Gallery (%4046 4800; www.cairns
regionalgallery.com.au; cnr Abbott & Shields Sts; adult/child
under 16yr $5/free; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun), in a

gorgeous heritage building, is worth a wander.

Exhibitions reflect the consciousness of the
region, with an emphasis on indigenous art.
The Cairns Museum (%4051 5582; www.cairns
museum.org.au; cnr Lake & Shields Sts; adult/child/family
$5/2/12; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat) is housed in the

former School of Arts Building. While it wont

blow you away, there are some interesting historical displays of Cairns and its surrounds.
Take your knowledge of the reefs life
to greater depths at Reef Teach (%4031 7794;
14 Spence St; adult/child $13/7; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat,
show 6.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat). The madcap lecturer

talksveryfast, and will explain how to identify

specific types of coral and fish, and, more importantly, how to treat the reef with respect.
The Centre of Contemporary Arts (%4050 9494;
www.kickarts.org.au; 96 Abbott St; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat)

has two gallery levels showcasing Queenslands

hottest visual artists. Admission is free.
About 20km from Cairns, the Crystal Cascades are a series of beautiful waterfalls and
pools. Avoid jumping off the rock cliffs here.
The area is accessed by a 1.2km (30 minutes)
pathway (suitable for wheelchairs).
For markets, see Shopping (p432).

FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D C a i r n s 425

Activities
DIVING & SNORKELLING

Cairns is the undisputed scuba-diving mecca

of the Great Barrier Reef and a popular place to
attain PADI open-water certification. Theres
a plethora of courses on offer, from budget
four-day courses that combine pool training and reef dives (around $380), to four-day
open-water courses ($480). Five-day courses
($540 to $695) include two days pool theory
and three days living aboard a boat, and are
generally more rewarding. Find out whether
prices include a medical check (around $50),
daily reef tax ($5), passport photos (around
$8), plus environmental management charges
(around $10).
A selection of reputable schools:
Cairns Dive Centre (%4051 0294; www.cairnsdive
.com.au; 121 Abbott St; h8am-7pm)

Deep Sea Divers Den (%4046 7333; 319 Draper St;

h6am-6pm)

Down Under Dive (%1800 079 099, 4052 8300; www

.downunderdive.com.au; 287 Draper St; h7am-7pm)
Multilingual instructors.
Pro-Dive (%4031 5255; www.prodive-cairns.com.au;
116 Spence St; h9am-9pm) Multilingual instructors.
Tusa Dive (%4031 1028; www.tusadive.com; cnr
Shields St & the Esplanade; h8am-6pm)
More comprehensive reef trips last one to 11
days and cost roughly $200 to $3700. Liveaboard trips explore the outer and northern
reefs, including Cod Hole, Homes Reef and
Osprey Reef.
Operators specialising in trips for certified divers:
Coral Sea Diving Company (%4041 2024; h9am5pm) Shark feeding offered.

Explorer Ventures/Nimrod (%4031 5566; www

.explorerventures.com; 206 Draper St; h9am-5pm MonFri) Extended itineraries for far northern reefs.
Mike Ball Dive Expeditions (%4053 0500; www
.mikeball.com; 143 Lake St; h8am-6pm) Three- to sevennight fly-dive trips, plus open-water dive courses ($325).
Reef Encounter (%1800 815 811, 4051 5777; www
.reeftrip.com; trips from $220) Live-aboard operator, plus
open-water learn-to-dive courses (from $695).
SeaQuest (%1800 612 223, 4046 7333; www.diversden
.com.au; live-aboard dive trips $330-570, snorkelling trips
$120-480) Live-aboard trips depart daily; learn-to-dive
courses from $435. Japanese and German tuition available.
Taka (%4051 8722; www.takadive.com.au; trips
$900-1500) Live-aboard trips to the Cod Hole, Osprey and
coral and clam gardens. Underwater photography courses
($200), and dive-hards can opt for a 24-dive package.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

INTERNET ACCESS

QPWS (%4046 6600; www.epa.qld.gov.au; 5b Sheridan

St; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) National park information
and permits.
Royal Automobile Club of Queensland (RACQ;
%1300 130 595; www.racq.com.au; cnr Mulgrave Rd &
Aplin St) Maps and information on road conditions up to
Cape York. Also has a 24-hour road-report service.

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426 FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D C a i r n s

lonelyplanet.com

stops at Flecker Botanic Gardens, the Royal

Flying Doctors base and Palm Cove.
Visit Kuranda with Down Under Tours (%4035

CAIRNS REGION IN

Two Days
The agenda for day one is to get as far away from the city as possible on a cruise to the Great
Barrier Reef (opposite). Immerse yourself in the vivid depths and snorkel or dive. If you dont
want to get wet, take a cruise with a glass-bottom boat so you can still get nose to nose with
the gorgeous marine life and colourful coral.
Once the main event is taken care of, dabble around Cairns on day two. Sun up, splash about
and flash some skin on the Cairns Foreshore Promenades swimming lagoon (p424). Grab an
alfresco bite at Perrottas (p430) and then potter through the adjoining Cairns Regional Gallery
(p425). Drink up a view and a summery aperitif at hip bar Tides (p431), before waltzing over to
Red Ochre Grill (p430) to wrap your taste buds around some native flavours.

On day three, head out early for a morning at the Flecker Botanic Gardens (p424), where you
can take a guided tour and explore the Gondwanan Evolutionary Trail. Save the afternoon for a
cultural experience at the Tjapukai Cultural Park (p425). Learn about the local indigenous people
and witness some traditional dancing. Shuttle-bus transfers leave Cairns hourly, picking up guests
from their accommodation. Sunbus 1 and 1A go past Tjapukai as well. These leave from the same
spot as all the Sunbus services. Then, head back to your accommodation, freshen up and then
hit the night markets (p432) for some shopping. Join the assortment of locals and travellers at
the capacious outdoor bar at Gilligans (p431). Grab a bar snack there, or for something more
substantial of the Japanese variety head to Cherry Blossom (p430).
On day four take in a tour of some of Cairns surrounding sights. Catch the Scenic Railway
(p440) to Kuranda, walk into a flurry of winged beauties at the Australian Butterfly Sanctuary
(p438) and get a birds-eye rainforest view on the way back by returning on the Skyrail (p440).
Alternatively, take an eco-accredited tour (opposite) to the Atherton Tablelands or Cape Tribulation and the magical Daintree rainforest.

Theres thrilling white-water rafting down the

Barron, Tully, Russell and North Johnstone
Rivers. For tours leaving Cairns, expect to
pay about $155 for a full day to Tully, $98
for a half day to the Barron River, $1400 for
a four-day trip to North Johnstone and $130
for a full-day trip to Russell. Check whether
wetsuit hire (around $10) and national-park
fees ($6) are included.
The major rafting companies in Cairns:
Foaming Fury (%4031 3460; www.foamingfury.com.au)
Raging Thunder (%4030 7990; www.ragingthunder
.com.au)

RnR (%4051 4055; www.raft.com.au)

OTHER ACTIVITIES

AJ Hackett Bungee & Minjin (%4057 7188; bungee

$110-140, s/tw/tr minjin swing per person $80/59/39,
bungee & minjin swing $140; h10am-5pm) Swing from
the trees on the minjin (a harness swing).
Fishing Cairns (%4041 1169; www.fishingcairns.com
.au) Catch flathead, cod and salmon by river fishing (day
trip $170) or deep-sea reef fishing (day trip $185).

Hot Air Ballooning (%4039 9900; www.hotair.com

.au; adult/child incl breakfast $200/124)

Skydive Cairns (%4031 5466; www.skydivecairns.com

.au; 59 Sheridan St; tandem jumps from 10,000ft $219)

Tandem Cairns (%4041 7726; www.tandemcairns

.com.au; jumps from 10,000ft $219)

Cairns for Kids

Muddys playground (the Esplanade) is suitable for all
ages, with climbing nets, water-play and storytelling areas, as well as your classic slides and
swings. Its between Minnie and Upward Sts.
Also on the Esplanade, the Lagoon (h6am-10pm
Oct-Mar, 7am-9pm Apr-Sep) is popular with kids and
is patrolled all day. During school holidays
Cairns Regional Gallery (p425) runs themebased workshops for children aged between
six and 12.

Tours
Guided by horticulturalists, Cairns Discovery
Tours (%4053 5259; www.cairnsdiscoverytours.com;
adult/child/family $50/29/160; h12.45-6.30pm) will
take you by bus through Cairns, including

5566, 1300 858 099; [email protected]; day trips from

$120). Day trips feature Kuranda Scenic Rail-

way and Skyrail; add-ons include local attractions such as Tjapukai Cultural Park and
Cairns Tropical Zoo.
For an inland adventure, Undara Experience
(%1800 990 992, 4097 1900; www.undara.com.au; 2-day
tour adult/child $430/220; hdaily Jun-Aug, Wed & Fri AprMay & Sep-Mar) has coach trips to the Undara

Lava Tubes.
GREAT BARRIER REEF & ISLANDS

Reef tours usually include lunch, snorkelling

gear (with dives an optional extra) and transfers. The cheapest tours start at around $80,
but its well worth spending more money for
fewer passengers and a more secluded spot
on the reef. An additional reef tax of $5 per
person applies.
Different sections of the reef tend to be
better suited for certain activities, whether its
snorkelling, or certified or introductory diving
so it pays to first determine what youre after.
Rates quoted here are mostly for snorkelling.
Also see the boxed text, p390.
Falla (%4041 2001; adult/child/family $79/49/230; dive
from $50) Sail to two reef sites in a classic pearl lugger.
Passions of Paradise (%1800 111 346, 4050 0676;
www.passions.com.au; adult/child/family $109/65/295)
Award-winning trips to Breaking Patches and Michaelmas
Cay. Takes a maximum of 80.
Reef Magic (%1300 666 700, 4031 1588; www
.reefmagiccruises.com; adult/child/family $165/85/415) Go
to Moore Reef, one of the best outer reef sites. Observatory, fish feeding and stable platform suit those prone to
seasickness.
Silverswift (%4044 9944; www.quicksilver-cruises
.com; adult/child $136/108; certified scuba dives incl
gear from $188) Catamaran visiting two outer reef sites.
Recommended.
Seastar (%4041 6218, 4033 0333; www.seastarcruises
.com.au; adult/child $80/60, dives from $120)
Affordable trips, including reef charge, to Michaelmas Cay
and Hastings Reef.
SeaQuest (%1800 612 223, 4046 7333; www.diversden
.com.au; adult/child/family from $85/50/250) Trips depart
daily.

You can see the reef from a different view

with Down Under Helicopters (% 4034 9000;
www.downunderheli.com; from $235) on fly-cruise
packages.

FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D C a i r n s 427

DAINTREE RIVER & CAPE TRIBULATION

Cape Tribulation is one of the most popular

day-trip destinations from Cairns. Tour operators push the safari angle, but the road is
sealed (ie suitable for a conventional vehicle)
until just before the Cape Tribulation Beach
House.
Back Country Bliss Adventures (%0420-101 757;
www.backcountryblissadventures.com.au; Bloomfield Falls
trip $160) Funky outfit with various 4WD tours plus mountain
biking, bushwalking and river-drift snorkelling trips.
Billy Tea Bush Safaris (%4032 0077; www.billytea
.com.au; day trip adult/child $145/95; h7.10am-6.30pm)
Long-standing eco tours.
Cape Trib Connections (%4041 7447; www.cape
tribconnections.com; day trip $114; h7.30am-6.30pm
Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat) Mossman Gorge, Cape Tribulation and
Port Douglas.
Down Under Tours (%1300 858 099, 4035 5566;
[email protected]; day trips adult/child $153/77)
Eco-certified tours taking in highlights of the Atherton
Tablelands, Mossman Gorge, Clohesy River, Daintree River
and Cape Tribulation.
ATHERTON TABLELANDS

Bandicoot Bicycle Tours (%4055 0155; www.bandi

cootbicycles.com; full day $110; hMon-Fri, Sat & Sun minimum 5 people) Bike tours to waterfalls and swimming holes.
Food Trail Tours (%4041 1522; www.foodtrailtours
.com.au; adult/child/family incl lunch $129/65/375;
h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) Graze on macadamias, tropicalfruit wine, ice cream and coffee.
Northern Exposure Eco Tours (%4058 0268; www
.northernexperience.com.au; adult/child from $95/85) Paronella Park plus Yungaburras famous fig tree, Lake Barrine
and the Babina Boulders. Lunch is not included.
On the Wallaby (%1800 123 311, 4095 2031; www
.onthewallaby.com; day/overnight tours $95/165)
Activity-based tours.
Uncle Brians Tours (%4050 0615; adult/child $99/69;
h8am-5.30pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat) Babinda, Josephine
Falls and Lake Eacham.
Wooroonooran Safaris (%1300 661 113, 4051 5512;
www.wooroonooran-safaris.com.au; forest tour adult/child
$150/115, trek adult/child from $100/80) Eco-certified
tour to World Heritagelisted Wooroonooran National Park
plus one-day rainforest trek tour. Tours possible in seven
languages. Maximum of 12 people.
COOKTOWN & CAPE YORK

Adventure North (%4051 0578; www.adventure

northaustralia.com; tours $430-640) Two-day journey to
Cooktown incorporating the best indigenous tours. Budget,
midrange and top-end accommodation available. Return
flights an option.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

Four Days

WHITE-WATER RAFTING

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428 FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D C a i r n s

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

A DIFFERENT KIND OF SOUVENIR

If youre looking to do more than simply soak up the sun on your travels then there are a
number of ways you can leave your mark on the environment in a good way. The Tolga Bat
Hospital (www.tolgabathospital.org), located just outside Atherton near Cairns, is always looking
for volunteers to help look after the hundreds of bats that they rescue, rehabilitate and release
every year. The winged critters are surprisingly cute and work might include feeding the bubs
or looking after orphaned flying foxes.
If bats arent your thing, consider planting a tree as part of an ambitious conservation project
by the Australian Rainforest Foundation (www.arf.net.au). Fifty-five bucks sees your very own tree
planted along a 250km green corridor between Cairns and Cardwell. This strip will become a
protected wildlife area and will hopefully ensure that all rainforest wildlife, but in particular the
endangered cassowary, will have a safe area in which to flourish.

.com.au) Purpose-built 4WDs travel to Cape York and the

Gulf Savannah in comfort. Cargo-ship voyages between
Cairns and Cape York (six days from $1410). Has advanced
eco-certification.
Wilderness Challenge (%4055 4488; www.wilderness
-challenge.com.au; 2-day tours adult/child from $365/335;
hMon, Wed & Fri, Jun-Nov, Mon & Wed Dec-May)
Two- and three-day 4WD tours that head to Cooktown via
the inland road and return via the Bloomfield Track (coastal
route). New three-day tours go to rock-art site, Jowalbinna,
near Laura.
GULF SAVANNAH

Oz Tours (%1800 079 006, 07-4055 9535; www.oztours

.com.au; per person from $1870) Six- to seven-day tours
taking in Undara and Georgetown among other sights,
or-nine day expeditions stopping off at Burketown and
Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park.

Sleeping
Accommodation agencies have up-to-date listings and can assist in locating suitable accommodation. The Destination Cairns (%1800 807 730,
4051 4066; www.accomcentre.com.au; cnr Sheridan & Alpin Sts)

has wheelchair access and tourist information.

Accom Cairns (%1800 079 031; www.accomcairns.com.au;
127 Sheridan St) gives advice on midrange, top-end
and short-term rental options.
Tariffs at many of the hostels include a free
dinner in town but dont expect Michelin-star
dining. The area behind the Cairns Central
Shopping Centre between Terminus and Scott
Sts is becoming a burgeoning backpacker hub
with a couple of hostels and budget cafs.
BUDGET

Serpent (%1800 737 736, 4040 7777; www.serpenthostel

.com; 341 Lake St; dm $14-22, d & tw from $52; pis)

A Nomads hostel, the spacious Serpent is a

reliable option for those who want to be away
from the downtown hustle and bustle. Has
good facilities and a tour desk.
Cairns Girls Hostel (%1800 011 950, 4051 2016;
www.cairnsgirlshostel.com.au; 147 Lake St; dm/tw $18/44;
pai) Sorry fellas, this female-only hos-

tel is one of the best in town. In a two-storey

house tucked behind a shopping strip, ladies
enjoy two large refurbished communal kitchen
and lounge areas. Youll be a name not a
number here.
Bohemia Central (%1800 558 589, 4052 1818; www
.bohemiacentral.com.au; 100 Sheridan St; dm $21-25, s/d $49/69;
pis) Housed in a heritage hotel with a

wide veranda, Bohemia Central is a maze

of bright, scrupulously clean, floor-boarded
rooms and four- or six-share dorms. Has some
of the nicest hostel staff youll encounter and a
groovy caf downstairs. Theres free pick-up.
Cairns Central (%4051 0772; cairns_central@yhaqld
.org; 20-26 McLeod St; dm $23-26, d & tw with/without
bathroom $72/58; s) A comfortable YHA with

lots of communal areas, modern facilities

and a relaxed mood. Its a good choice for
solo women travellers, and those travelling
with kiddies can take advantage of affordable
family rooms.
Travellers Oasis (%1800 621 353, 4052 1377; www
.travoasis.com.au; 8 Scott St; dm/s/d $24/40/52; ais)

A freshly spruced timber house with lots of

double rooms, it offers friendliness and courtesy pick-up. A sign here reads on this site in
1897 nothing happened and things havent
changed much with travellers generally whiling the hours away.
Tropic Days (%4041 1521; www.tropicdays.com.au;
28 Bunting St; dm/d $24/52; pais) Sibling to
Travellers Oasis, this is a 10-minute walk away
up Scott Street but similar in its chill factor

with lots of hammocks. Tasteful double rooms

come with fridge, TV and air-con. The hostel
does free bus runs downtown. Monday nights
are $10 croc barbecue affairs an absolute
bargain.
Gilligans (%4041 6566; www.gilligansbackpackers
.com.au; 57-89 Grafton St; dm $27-30, d & tw $130;
pais) Are you a five-star backpacker?

This slick resort-style complex, with its own

beauty salon, artificial beach, tour desk and
branded water, will suit those wanting it all.
Modern dorms and doubles are hotel-style
rooms, with en suite, fridge and TV. Its internet caf doubles as a pizzeria, the 1000capacity beer hall serves meals day and night,
and the gaming room and swimming pool
are licensed.
Ryans Rest (%4051 4734; www.ryanrest.com.au;
18 Terminus St; s with/without air-con $42/38, d $50/54,
tw per person from $38). A classic Queenslander

(think slat windows, palm tree entrance and

floor-boarded hallways) suiting the penny
conscious. There are share kitchens, outdoor
tables and a restful scene. Three flats are available for $150 a week (one-month minimum
stay).
oFloriana (%4051 7886; [email protected];
183 the Esplanade; s $75, d & tw $85-105; as) Oozing
charm, the charismatic Floriana guesthouse is
caught in a 1960s time warp but thats why we
love it. The matriarch is piano-playing Maggie and shes a wealth of information about
Cairns. Garden gnomes point to a sweeping staircase thats fit for a debutante, and
leads guests to personalised rooms and selfcontained flats; some have balconies with
views out to sea. The communal kitchen area
is within cooee of the pool.
MIDRANGE

Discovery Resort (%1800 672 753, 4044 9777; www

.discoveryresort.com.au; 183-185 Lake St; d $89-99, f $160;
pais) This sparkling new midranger

has excellent stand-by rates and, while not

overflowing with atmosphere, its central to
Cairns hot spots. Features two saltwater pools
and a licensed Italian restaurant, Toscanis.
Balinese (%1800 023 331, 4051 9922; www.balinese
.com.au; 215 Lake St; s, tw & d $100; pais) Authentic wood furnishings and ceramic pieces
at this intimate motel stay true to its moniker.
Theres a communal kitchen, laundry, peephole-sized pool and internet access. Room
rates include a basic breakfast and return airport transfers (7am to 7pm).

FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D C a i r n s 429

Figtree Lodge (%4041 0000; www.figtreelodge.com.au;

253 Sheridan St; r $110-150, apt $120-160; pais)
Managing to remain calm despite being on
busy Sheridan St, Figtrees rooms might not
have the biggest windows but the colossal
beds make up for this. Apartments include
additional cooking facilities. Find yourself by
the lush pool or raising your glass at the Irish
bar and restaurant on the premises.
Skinny Dips (%4051 4644; www.skinnydips.com
.au; 18-24 James St; s $126, d & tw $174; pais)

Catering to the discerning gay traveller, this

hotel centres on an aqua pool and glam bar
serving pink drinks. Standard rooms have
large beds, fridge, en suite and gay photography on the wall. The superior rooms go up a
notch with bathrobes and better views. Theres
also free internet access, in-house DVDs, plus
gym and sauna. Rates include breakfast.
Bay Village (%4051 4622; www.bayvillage.com.au;
cnr Lake & Gatton Sts; r/apt $145/165; pais) Foolproof rooms overlooking a shady courtyard
and pool, and a romantic Balinese-inspired
restaurant, make Bay Village extremely popular with holiday hedonists. Extra-polite staff
and tour desk.
More midrange options:
Bohemia Resort (%1800 155 353, 4041 7290; www
.bohemiaresort.com.au; 231 McLeod St; dm $23, s $59,
d/tw with/without bathroom $75/59; pais)
Caters to a new breed of hippies seeking comfort, in tall
adjoining buildings composed of hotel style and family
rooms that are cleaned daily. Dorms are bunk-free zones.
Theres a tranquil pool and all en suite rooms have a
balcony.
Shooting Star (%4047 7200; www.shootingstar
apartments.com.au; 117 Grafton St; r from $90;
aisp) Bright studio-style, self-contained
apartments are great value. Its a good spot for couples
and families.
Southern Cross Apartments (%4031 4000; www
.southerncrossapartments.com; 5-7 Water St; d $93-283)
Modern, family-friendly accommodation with balconies,
although its near Cairns Central Shopping Centre. Ask for a
room overlooking the pool to compensate.
TOP END

Shangri-La (%4031 1411; www.shangri-la.com; Pierpoint Rd; d from $228-402; pais) This hotel
evokes serious take-me-here fantasies with its
plush but understated suites, Oriental-style
and sterling service. Rooms either have a city,
bay, pool or knock-out harbour view. And for
serious decadence, dont go past the horizon
lounge rooms.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

Oz Tours (%1800 079 006, 4055 9535; www.oztours

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430 FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D C a i r n s

201 Lake Street (%1800 628 929, 4053 0100;

www.201lakestreet.com.au; 201 Lake St; r/apt from $190/270;
pas) Lifted from the pages of a trendy
magazine, this new apartment complex has a
stellar pool and a whiff of exclusivity. Grecian
white predominates and guests can choose
from a smooth hotel room or contemporary
apartments with an entertainment area, a
plasma-screen TV and a balcony. Fit for the
fashionista seeking luxe time-out.
Cairns International (%4031 1300; www.cairns
international.com.au; 17 Abbott St; r $280-600; pas)

A classic 1980s hotel with 16 floors, Cairns

International is something like the giant cod
on the accommodation reef impressive in
its age and emanating stately grace.
CAMPING

Cairns Holiday Park (%1800 259 977, 4051 1467; www

this is particularly good value. Choose from
shady sites or cabins with air-con and separate
share bathrooms. Theres also a camp kitchen,
free wireless internet and a TV room.
Also recommended is Cairns Coconut Caravan
Resort (%4054 6644; www.coconut.com.au; cnr Bruce Hwy
& Anderson Rd; unpowered/powered sites $32/34, cabins from
$65; pis), 5km southwest of town.

Eating
Cairns multicultural visitors have brought a
global influence to the citys eateries. Restaurants and cafs are spread throughout town,
though many cluster together along the Esplanade to take advantage of the waterfront
(you may pay extra for the privilege; check
out dinner deals before 7pm).
RESTAURANTS

For such a megawatt destination, Cairns restaurant scene doesnt turn heads. Still there
are some reliable options.
Perrottas at the Gallery (%4046 4800; cnr Abbott &
Shields Sts; mains $14-32) With its fan-cooled balcony, this sophisticated yet breezy place is a
big hit with Cairns chic crowd who savour
goat curd and basil oil bruschetta between
dips into their newspapers.
Pier (%4031 4677; Pier Complex, Pier Point Rd; mains
around $18; hlunch & dinner) For instant popularity, just add water. On the marina and waterfront, Pier is a pacey bar and grill. Punters love
to watch their ice moving through the Perspex
pipe above the bar and kicking back on the

deck area. Theres a smattering of mains, such

as wok noodles any which way, a few pastas,
and nibbles. Wood-fired pizzas are available
until late, as is dessert: hazelnut-chocolate
spread, marshmallows and coffee ice cream
anyone?
Cherry Blossom (%4052 1050; cnr Spence & Lake
Sts; mains $17.50-35; hlunch Wed-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat)

Teppanyaki reigns supreme at this upstairs

Japanese restaurant reminiscent of an Iron
Chef cook-off, with two chefs working at opposite ends of the restaurant floor. Among
the authentic dishes youll find item No 15:
Aussie Animals crocodile karaage, kangaroo tsukadami and emu kushiyaki in a cheese
basket. Has good lunch specials.
Mangostins (%4031 9888; 65 the Esplanade; meals
$24-36; hlunch & dinner) Opposite the lagoon
development, this terrace enclave is a touch
Noosa-esque. The Crocodiles Nest gets our
vote for curiositys sake alone.
Red Ochre Grill (%4051 0100; 43 Shields St; mains
$26-30; hlunch Mon-Fri, dinner daily) Red Ochres inventive menu utilises native Australian ingredients and local produce, artfully prepared to
pioneer its own culinary genre. There are the
animals (croc, roo and emu) and even Aussie
flora native peach chutneys etc appears on
the menu. The Taste of Australia platter ($60
per person) is a crowd-pleaser and finishes
with wattleseed pavlova (bravo!).
For authentic international fare head to
Marinades (%4041 1422; 43 Spence St; mains around
$16; hlunch Tue-Fri, dinner Tue-Sun), which dishes
up delicious Indian cuisine; La Fettuccina

lonelyplanet.com

oFusion Organics (%4051 1388; cnr Grafton

& Aplin Sts; dishes $7.90-10; hbreakfast & lunch Mon-Sat)

Too much partying? Some zesty food, an immuniser juice or sublime Genovese coffee
might help your path to restoration. Flavoursome quiches, frittata and filled breads plus
dairy-free and allergy-free options.
Gaura Nitais (%4031 2255; 55 Spence St; meals
$7.90-10; hdinner till 8pm) The Hare Krishnas
know how to make a good vegetarian curry
and the buffet of goodness is no exception.
Its decked out with Hindu art and mosaic
tables, or grab some takeaway and head to
Cairns Harbour.
Quick and healthy eats can be found at Edge
(%4053 2966; 1/138 Collins Ave, Edge Hill; dishes $5-15;
hbreakfast & lunch), up the road from the Botanic
Gardens, or Tinys Juice Bar (%4031 4331; 45 Grafton
St; meals $6.30-10; hbreakfast & lunch Mon-Fri). There
are lunchtime food courts at Orchid Plaza (Abbott
St) and at the Night Markets (the Esplanade).

Also recommended:
Matsuri (%4031 0271; 62 Abbot St) Authentic Japanese
food, according to one discerning local. Behind the night
market on the Esplanade
O Cha Cha (%4051 7055; Palm Court, 34 Lake St; meals
$10-15; hlunch Mon-Fri, lunch & dinner Sat) Casual
upstairs Japanese eatery.
The Coffee Shop (25 Grafton St) Good-looking lattes.
SELF-CATERING

Theres a Woolworths (Abbott St; h8am-9pm MonFri, 8am-5.30pm Sat, 9am-6pm Sun), plus at least two
supermarkets in Cairns Central Shopping
Centre. At Rustys Market (Grafton St, btwn Shields &

(%4031 5959; 43 Shields St; mains around $18; hdinner)

Spence Sts; h6am-6pm Fri, 6am-3pm Sat & 6am-2pm Sun)

for saucy homemade pastas; or Phuket Thai

Seafood Restaurant (%4031 0777; 3/135 Grafton St;
dishes $15-20; hlunch Mon-Fri, dinner daily) for excellent Thai cuisine.

multi-ethnic stall holders have tropical fruits

piled high plus herbs, honey and pick-me-up
samosas.
Niche self-catering options:
Asian Foods Australia (%4052 1510; 101-5 Grafton

CAFS & QUICK EATS

St) Asian goods.

Beethoven Caf (%4051 0292; 105 Grafton St; dishes

$4.20-8; hbreakfast Mon-Sat, lunch Mon-Fri) Make
like Augustus Gloop and squeeze in a slab of
cheesecake or wicked-looking tiramisu after
youve downed a Scandinavian rye sandwich.
Savoury combos include Buendnerfleisch (airdried beef, Swiss cheese and gherkin).
Lillipad (%4051 9565; 72 Grafton St; dishes $10-14;
hbreakfast & lunch) Walk down the long, narrow
seating area of Lillipad, and meet the maker of
your fabulously big breakfast. Theres love in
your Full Monty fry-up, your panini and your
salad. Vegetarians are spoilt for choice here.

Neils Organics (%4051 5688; cnr James & McLeod

Sts) Organic fruit, veg and other produce.

Drinking
The range and number of places to drink in
Cairns is intoxicating. Most offer food, alcohol and some form of entertainment. The
Cairns Post publishes Time Out with listings
and reviews.
oTides (%4052 7670; Shangri La Hotel, Pierpoint Rd) A magnet for Cairns bold and beautiful (and yachties and reef workers who often
fall into that clique too), this bar offers style,

FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D C a i r n s 431

tapas, happy hour from 5.30pm and an ocean

breeze to caress.
Court House Hotel (%4031 4166; 38 Abbott St) Balance the scales of justice, or at least your drinks,
at this regal pub with a front lawn made for
enjoying afternoon ales. A spacious courtyard
encircles the main room, with a well-stocked
bar at its centre. A mixed crew generally
suave and clean-cut gathers here.
Gilligans (%4041 6566; 57-89 Grafton St) Youre
guaranteed a crowd here, as the 500-odd backpackers staying in this resort complex (p428)
work up a thirst; its also popular with locals.
There are regular club nights, as well as special
live music events.
Shenannigans (%4051 2490; 48 Spence St) Retreat from the sun to the dark comforts of
this Irish-themed pub, with a few too many
televisions. Theres also a rowdy beer garden and outdoor bistro. From Thursday to
Saturday night, a band plays to a standingroom-only crowd before a DJ moves in for
boogie business.
PJ OBriens (%4031 5333; 87 Lake St) There are
Thank Guinness its Friday nights, and
Wednesdays entertainment is dancing girls:
not that you would see girls in bikinis dancing
on the bar in Dublin.
Other drinking options:
Cairns Yacht Club (%4031 2750; Pier Point) One for
the tanned, boat-shoe crowd and Cairns loyalists, the
clubs relocation to this new spot on the wharf has been
the talk of the town.
Fox & Firkin (%4031 5305; cnr Spence & Lake Sts)
Relaxed pub popular with backpackers.
Inbox C@fe (%4041 4677; 119 Abbott St) Run by
dreadlocked locals in loose pants, the vibe is r-e-l-a-x-e-d
and funky bands play when they feel like it.

Entertainment
If you want to move things up a gear, head
to one of Cairns innumerable clubs. Most
open around 10pm and close between 5am
and 6am. Cover charges are from $5 to $10.
Check out the entertainment guide Gateway
for the latest happenings. Fetish 4 Life (%4041
4161; 54 Shields St; h10am-6pm Mon-Sun Apr-Dec, Mon-Sat
Jan-Mar), a funky clothes shop, sells tickets to

dance events, gigs and raves plus party paraphernalia such as fire sticks.
Velvet Rope (%4031 3383; downstairs, Cairns Casino,
28 Spence St) Velvet Rope is a thumping, hard
venue featuring respected local and touring
DJs. A second room plays funk and hip-hop.
Freakquency on Friday is always popular.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

.cairnscamping.com.au; 12-30 Little St; unpowered/powered sites

$22/29, cabins $48; pa) More central than most,

lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com

Johnos Nightclub & Bar (%4051 8770; cnr Abbott

& Aplin Sts) Live blues and rock are the go every

Green House (%4031 8787; 55 Spence St; h10am6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Antique wall plaques,

night at this huge venue, where a hang-glider

is suspended from the roof. The WorldFamous Gong Show is free every Sunday,
cane toad races with a safari-clad comic take
place Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, and chipper bar staff call you darlin
and bloke.
Soho (%4051 2666; cnr the Esplanade & Shields St)
This funky spot features resident DJs, as well
as touring local and national turntableists.
Hard trance on Friday nights suits the glowtorch posse.
Tropos (%4031 2530; cnr Spence & Lake Sts) Wear
something short, tight and asymmetrical. A
young, high-energy crowd drinks cocktails
with names like attitude improvement on an
enormous balcony with pool tables.
Nu-Trix (%4051 8223; 53 Spence St) Drag shows
are a feature at Cairns only gay venue. The
shiny metal-clad exterior acts as armour
against the morning sun, keeping things dark
and doofing until late.
Met Bar (%4041 0277; 1/15 Spence St) Nearly
every city in the Western world may have a
place going by the same name but they wont
all host the once-a-month gay spectacular
aptly named Visions.
You can catch a mainstream flick at Cairns
City Cinemas (%4031 1077; 108 Grafton St) or Central
Cinemas (%4052 1166; Cairns Central Shopping Centre).
JUTE Cinema Sunday (%4050 9450; www.endcredits
.org.au; 96 Abbott St; h4pm 1st & 3rd Sun each month) at
the Centre of Contemporary Arts caters for
art-house film buffs. Catch a play by a local
playwright and mingle with Cairns arty set at
the Jelly Babes Bar at JUTE Theatre (%4050 9444;
www.jute.com.au; 96 Abbott St), also at the Centre of
Contemporary Arts.
The Tanks Arts Centre (%4032 6600; www.tankart
centre.com; 46 Collins Ave, Edge Hill) hosts some of
the countrys finest musicians at these decommissioned navy tanks that now serve as
post-modern performance spaces. Check out
the programme for the latest in jazz-art-film
events.

wooden toys and groovy resin jewellery can

be found here.
Centre of Contemporary Arts (%4050 9496; 96 Abbott Street; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat) Its all style at this
shop, arguably the best place in town to pick
up the latest in art objects and Torres Strait
Islander etchings.
Tanks Arts Centre (%4032 6600; 46 Collins Ave, Edge
Hill) Hosts markets on the last Sunday of the
month where youll find everything from Samoan baskets to woodworkers, protest petitions and crystal key rings.
City Place Disposals (%4051 6040; cnr Grafton &
Shields Sts) Has cheap camping and outdoor gear
on offer, or you can sell your own. Theres
tent rental from $8.
Head to the night markets (the Esplanade; h4.3011pm) and Mud Markets (Pier Marketplace; hSat
morning) for the mandatory Cairns Australia
T-shirt, or if you need your name on a grain
of rice.

Shopping
Every second shop in Cairns seems to sell
opals, Coogi, Ken Done and made-in-Korea
didgeridoos and boomerangs. For an authentic termite-made didgeridoo and other
Aboriginal items, your best bet is Tjapukai
Cultural Park (p425).

Getting There & Away

AIR

Qantas (%13 13 13, 4050 4000; www.qantas.com.au; cnr

Lake & Shields Sts), Virgin Blue (%13 67 89; www.virgin
blue.com.au) and Jetstar (%13 15 38; www.jetstar
.com.au) all service Cairns, with flights to/from
Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne, Darwin (and
via Alice Springs) and Townsville.
Macair (%13 13 13) flies to Mt Isa. Hinterland
Aviation (%1300 134 044, 4035 9323; [email protected]
.au) flies to Lizard Island and Dunk Island.
BUS

Johns Kuranda Bus (%0418-772 953; tickets $2) runs

between Cairns and Kuranda at least twice per
day, and up to five times Wednesday to Friday. Buses depart from Cairns Lake St Transit
Centre. Kuranda Shuttle (%0402-032 085; tickets $2)
departs Lake St Transit Mall roughly every
two hours from 10am to 3pm, and Kuranda
(Therwine St) at 10am, 12.15pm, 2pm and
3.45pm (the latter service does not operate
on Saturday). Whitecar Coaches (%4091 1855; www
.whitecarcoaches.com; tickets $4) has five departures
on weekdays, 9.30am and 1pm departures
on Saturday and a 1pm departure on Sunday from outside Shenannigans, City Mall.
Whitecar also has departures from Cairns to
the Atherton Tablelands including Mareeba,
Atherton, Herberton and Ravenshoe (and
Chillagoe with a separate connection). Check

lonelyplanet.com

its website for weekday and weekend services

and prices.
Long-distance buses now arrive and depart at Pier Marketplace car park, on Fogarty Park Rd near the Lagoon on Cairns
Esplanade.
Greyhound Australia (%1300 4739 46863; www
.greyhound.com.au) connects Cairns with Brisbane ($234, 30 hours), Rockhampton ($164,
18 hours), Airlie Beach ($95, 11 hours) and
Townsville ($62, six hours).
Premier Motor Service (%13 34 10; www.premierms
.com.au) has buses to/from Innisfail ($16, 1
hours), Mission Beach ($16, two hours), Tully
($23, 2 hours), Ingham ($30, four hours)
and Townsville ($50, 5 hours).
Sun Palm Express (%4032 4999; www.sunpalm
transport.com) connects Cairns with Port Douglas
($30, 1 hours), Mossman ($40, 1 hours)
and Cape Tribulation ($65, 3 hours, three
daily services).
Coral Reef Coaches (%4098 2600; www.coralreef
coaches.com.au) also runs a daily service from
Cairns to Cape Tribulation ($40, four hours)
stopping in Port Douglas ($28, 1 hours) and
Mossman ($25, two hours).
Foaming Fury (%1800 801 540, 4031 3460; www
.foamingfury.com.au; one way $20, half-day return $40) operates a Port Douglas shuttle.
Country Road Coach Lines (%4045 2794; www
.countryroadcoachlines.com.au; adult/child $72/36) runs
a Cairns-to-Cooktown inland service on
Wednesday, Friday and Sunday (departing
at 7am, arriving at 12.15pm). A coastal service
operates on Monday, Wednesday and Friday
(departing at 7am, arriving at 2pm). Courtesy
pick-ups are available.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Hiring a car or motorcycle is the best way to

travel around Far North Queensland. Most
companies restrict the driving of conventional
vehicles to sealed roads; if you want to travel
to Cooktown via the Bloomfield Track (the
coastal route), hire a 4WD.
Theres a mind-numbing number of rental
companies in Cairns:
Britz Australia (%4032 2611; www.britz.com.au; 411
Sheridan St) Hires out campervans.

FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D C a i r n s 433

TRAIN

The Queensland Rail (%1300 131 722, 4036 9333; www

.traveltrain.com.au; Cairns Central Shopping Centre, Bunda
St; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.45-10am Sat) Tilt Train

runs between Cairns and Brisbane ($305, 25

hours), as does the Sunlander (economy seat/
sleeper $207/265, 31 hours).
See p440 for information on travelling to
Kuranda.

Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT

The airport is about 7km from central Cairns.

Australia Coach (%4048 8355; adult/child $8/4) meets
all incoming flights and runs a shuttle bus to
the CBD. Sun Palm (www.sunpalmtransport.com) has
airport services from Cairns city to the airport from 4am to 7pm. Airport transfers can
also be booked to Cairns northern beaches
($16), Palm Cove ($16), Port Douglas ($30),
Mossman ($40) and Cape Tribulation ($65,
three services daily). A taxi will set you back
about $15.
BICYCLE

You can hire bicycles from the following:

Bandicoot Bicycles (%4041 0155; www.bandicoot
bicycles.com; 153 Sheridan St; per day $18)
Bike Man (%4041 5566; www.bikeman.com.au; 99
Sheridan St; per week $40)
Cairns Bicycle Hire (%4031 3444, 0418-783 903;
47 Shields St; per day/week $12/40) Groovy bikes and
scooters.
BUS

Sunbus (%4057 7411; www.sunbus.com.au) runs regular services in and around Cairns, which
leave from the Lake St Transit Centre, where
schedules for most routes are posted. Buses
run from early morning to late evening. Useful destinations include: Edge Hill (buses 6,
6a and 7), Flecker Botanic Gardens (bus 7),
Machans Beach (bus 7), Holloways Beach
(buses 1c, 1d and 1h), Yorkeys Knob (buses
1c, 1d and 1h), Trinity Beach (buses 2 and
2a), Clifton Beach (buses 1 and 2a) and Palm
Cove (buses 1 and 2a). All are served by the
(almost) 24-hour night service (N) on Friday
and Saturday.

Europcar (%4051 4600; www.deltaeuropcar.com.au;

135 Abbott St) With an airport desk.

TAXI

Sheridan Rent a Car (%4051 3942; [email protected]

Black & White Taxis (%4048 8333, 13 10 08) has

ranks throughout the city, including on
Abbott St and at Cairns Central Shopping
Centre.

.au; 36 Water St)

Thrifty (%1300 367 277; www.thrifty.com.au; Cairns
International Airport)

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

432 FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D C a i r n s

434 FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D A r o u n d C a i r n s

lonelyplanet.com

0
0

AROUND CAIRNS
Daintree National Park
(Mossman Gorge
Section)

20 km
12 miles

To Cape
Tribulation
(73km)

Mossman

Crocodiles inhabit rivers and

lakes in tropical areas;
swimming is not recommended.

Port Douglas
Mossman
Gorge

Four Mile
Beach

Ferry to Great
Barrier Reef

44

To Cooktown
(via Inland Rd)
(210km)

Hartley's Creek
Crocodile Farm

Pretty Beach
tain
Cap

Mt Molloy

Oak Beach

Peninsul
a

Coo
k

Double
Island

Devel
tal Rd

opmen

lw

Kuranda

Skyrail Rainforest
Cableway
Cairns International Airport

River

Barron Gorge
National Park

Cairns

Crystal
Cascades

Mareeba

1 A1

CORAL
SEA
Mu

52

High Island

er

y
Hw

Riv

Walshs
Pyramid
(922m)

ave

Kairi

y
Hw

Cathedral
Fig

Lake
Tinaroo

ce

Tinaroo Falls

u
Br

ve

lgr

ve

rave

Gordonvale

Ri

Tolga

Wooroonooran
National Park

lies

Gil

Atherton

Lake Barrine
Crater Lakes
National Park

Yungaburra

To Irvinebank (20km);
Chillagoe (128km)

Lake Eacham

Mt Bellenden Ker
(1593m)

Peeramon

52

Malanda Falls

Herberton

Babinda Boulders
Mt Bartle Frere
(1657m)

Malanda

Mt Hypipamee
National Park

25

Dinner
Falls

Waterfalls
Circuit

Tarzali

Mt Hypipamee
Crater

24

Mirriwinni

Ellinjaa
Falls

1 A1

Falls
nedy Hwy
Ken
To Koombooloomba
Dam (30km)

Little
Millstream
Falls

Mungalli
Creek Dairy

Papina Falls

Old Palmerston
Hwy

Souita
Falls

Eubenangee Swamp
National Park
Garradunga

Ella Bay
National Park

Wooroonooran
National Park

25

To Innot Hot Springs (19km);

Undara Lava Tubes (141km);
Windy Hill
Croydon (402km);
Wind Farm
Normanton
Ravenshoe
(553km)
Millstream

Graham Range
(Russell River)
National Park

Bramston Beach

Zillie Falls
Millaa
Millaa

Frankland
Islands

Babinda

Josephine Falls

Millaa Millaa
Falls

Russell
Heads

has stylish split-level rooms, each with a private balcony. Two styles of room are available:
the larger room sleeps up to four, or you can
have one all to yourself and shuffle around in
your complimentary slippers and bathrobe.
Great Adventures (%07-4051 0455; www.greatadven
tures.com.au; 1 Wharf St, Cairns) has regular catamaran services to Green Island ($56), departing
Cairns at 8.30am, 10.30am and 1pm and returning at noon, 2.30pm and 4.30pm. Big Cat
(%07-4051 0444; www.bigcat-cruises.com.au; tours from $58)

Gadgarra Red Cedar

Russell River

52

Curtain
Fig

Deeral

stingrays. Crocodiles are in showy mode at

10.30am and 1.45pm daily. Theres also a collection of Melanesian artefacts.
The luxurious Green Island Resort (%07-4031
3300; www.greenislandresort.com.au; r $495-595; as)

Mulg

Danbulla Danbulla
Forest Drive State
Forest

Ri

To Chillagoe
(116km)

Fitzroy Island

Edmonton

Lake
Morris

Davies Creek
National Park

n
rro
Ba

Granite
Gorge

Yarrabah
Aboriginal
Community

Davies Creek
Falls

Spiritually significant to the Gungandji

Aboriginal people, this small coral cay has a
rainforested interior with interpretive walks,
hemmed by stunning beach and snorkelling
just offshore making it a popular choice with
families. A luxury resort dominates it and the
resort has a separate section for day-trippers.
From the shore, you can spot reef sharks, turtles and schools of tiny fish. A gentle rainforest
walk is 350m and well signposted.
Marineland Melanesia (%07-4051 4032; www
.marinelandgreenisland.com; adult/child/family $12.50/5.50/
31) has an aquarium with fish, turtles and

Cape
Grafton

Pickford Rd
Burke Developmental Rd
27

ISLANDS OFF CAIRNS

Green Island, Fitzroy Island and Frankland
Islands National Park are popular day trips.
All the islands are great for snorkelling. Ferries depart from the Reef Fleet terminal in
Cairns; see individual islands for departure/
arrival times.

Mungalli Falls

rth
No

John

Nandroya
Wallicher Falls
Falls
Pal
Tchupala Falls
m
ers
ton

Flying Fish Point

stone

er
Riv
25

Crawfords Lookout
H wy
To Paronella
Park (3km)

Innisfail
Etty Bay
Mourilyan
To Mission Beach (39km);
Ingham (139km);
Townsville (249km)

also runs half- and full-day tours, which depart

Cairns at 9am and 1.15pm. Prices include the
use of snorkelling gear. Ocean Free (%07-4053
5888; www.oceanfree.com.au; adult/child/family schooner trips
$109/70/322, cruiser trips $165/80/441) operate a bou-

tique schooner to Green Island and Pinnacle

Reef, and a cruiser to Upolu Cay.

Fitzroy Island National Park

A steep mountain-top peeping from the sea,
Fitzroy Island has coral-littered beaches and
great walking opportunities. In winter (June
to August), you can spot humpback whales
from the lighthouse. While there is no longer
resort accommodation, day-trippers can still
use its facilities including a swimming pool,
bar and kiosk, and hire water-sports equip-

ment and fishing rods. The most popular

snorkelling spot is around the rocks at Nudey
Beach (1.2km from these facilities).
There are a number of walks, which vary in
difficulty. The 20-minute Secret Garden Walk, with
major skinks basking on rocks, is a leisurely
stroll, whereas the Lighthouse & Summit Trail is a
steep, two-hour climb.
Fitzroy Island Ferries (%07-4030 7907; Reef Fleet
terminal, Cairns; adult/child/family return $42/21/$105) departs Cairns at 8.30am, 10.30am and 4pm,
returning at 9.30am, 3pm and 5pm. Full- and
half-day tours, including lunch and transfers,
are also available.
Raging Thunder (%07-4030 7907; www.fitzroyisland
.com.au; Reef Fleet terminal, Cairns; adult/child/family ferry return
$42/21/105, half-day trip $65/32/183, full-day trip $71/37/198)

operates ferry transfers to Fitzroy Island at

8.30am and 12.30pm (and 10.30am during
the high season), returning at 3pm and 5pm,
as well as a half-day trip that departs Cairns at
10.30am and returns at 3pm or 5pm, and a fullday trip that departs Cairns at 8.30am, returning at 5pm. Transfers from Cairns northern
beaches can be arranged for the latter for an
additional fee.

Frankland Islands National Park

A group of five islands surrounded by coral,
the Frankland Islands have gorgeous, sandy
beaches and offer a splendid days snorkelling. Camping is allowed in the national park,
and permits are available from Cairns QPWS
(%07-4046 6600; www.epa.qld.gov.au; 5b Sheridan St,
Cairns; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri), but youll need to
be fully self-sufficient.
Frankland Islands Cruise & Dive (%07-4031 6300;
www.franklandislands.com.au; adult/child cruise & lunch only
$110/70, full-day tour $140/80, adult tour & transfer $200)

runs excellent day tours, which include a

cruise down the Mulgrave River. Additionally, transfers can be arranged for campers
who are heading to Russell Island and have
the necessary QPWS permits.

CAIRNS NORTHERN BEACHES

%07 / pop 19,857

A string of communities cling to their own

patch of beach on the 26km stretch of coast
north of Cairns. The following beaches, listed
in order from Cairns north, all have stingerfree nets in summer. If youre travelling by
car, turn-offs from the highway are well signposted. Sunbus (p433) runs regular services
from Cairns.

QUEENSLAND

Ke
nn
ed

Yorkeys Knob
Holloways Beach

Smithfield

y
Hw

esy

Mareeba Biboohra
Wetlands

Green Island

44

Rd
on

Cloh

Bi
Golden
Pride
Winery

See Cairns' Northern

Beaches Map (p436)

Palm Cove
Clifton Beach
Trinity Beach

er
Riv

81

QUEENSLAND

Hw Ellis
y Beach

Cairns
Tropical
Zoo

ro
Bar

FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D I s l a n d s o f f C a i r n s 435

Green Island

Pebbly Beach
Julatten

81

lonelyplanet.com

CAIRNS' NORTHERN BEACHES

To Double
Island (1km)

Buchan Point

Palm
Cove

0
0

2 km
1 mile

Veivers
Rd

44

Clifton Beach

Crocodiles inhabit
rivers and lakes in
tropical areas;
swimming is not
recommended.

re

Clifton Beach
on
ift
Kewarra Beach
Cl Rd
Taylor Point
To Ellis
d
Beach (5km);
Trinity Beach
dR
Port Douglas
oo
Trinity Beach
olw
(37km);
o
Mossman P
Half Moon
ity d
(45km);
rin R
Bay
T
Daintree
Yorkeys Point
(81km); Cape
d
R
Yorkeys Knob
Tribulation
ed
e
R
(107km)

Ba

r
ie

Be

ac

rr

Rd

Knob

rke

ys

Trinity
Bay

e ach

Yo

Holloways Beach
Holloways Beach

ays B
Rd

Machans Beach
Machans Beach

Be

Holl

er

ach

ow

Skyrail Rainforest
Cableway

Ri

y
ned
Ken wy
H

Smithfield

ns
ha Rd

ac

on

Tjapukai
Aboriginal
Cultural Park

ra

Ku

Ba

rr

Casurina
Point

nd

ay

91

Ellie
Point

r un

wy
k H

Coo

Mt Whitfield
Conservation
Park

Cairns
International
Airport

tain

e
mead-Ka m
Bris

Cairns
Harbour

t
on S
ersCAIRNS

ga

Rd

To Crystal
Cascades (6km)

Kamerunga Rd
Stratford
Freshwater

Cap

ilw

Ra

nic

Sce

QUEENSLAND

ef

Hwy
in Cook

pta

SEA

Re

Ca

To Kuranda
(5km)

CORAL

And

Holloways Beach

The Coral Sea meets a rough ribbon of sand

at a suitable depth for swimming at the tad
suburban Holloways Beach.
Just back from the sand, Strait on the Beach
(%4055 9616; 100 Oleandar St; meals $6-16; hbreakfast
& lunch) is transformed from what would other-

wise be a standard takeaway shop and caf by

an exceptional setting. Eat vegetarian nachos,
burgers and green curries under a coconut
rotunda and sit back in cruise control.

Yorkeys Knob
Yorkeys is a low-key place with a long whitesand beach thats popular with kite surfers,
and has the impressive Yorkeys Knob Boating
Club (%4055 7711; 25-29 Buckley St; meals $13.90-29.50;
hlunch & dinner) with a winning location and a
range of heavy tackle (aka Cajun chicken)
and light tackle (such as oysters). If youre
driving, take a spin to the top of the knob,
where the views are spectacular.
The clean, no-frills vintage villas at Villa
Marine (%4055 7158; www.villamarine.com.au; r from
$79; pas) overlook a pool with a grassy
garden attracting bird life. The helpful man-

lonelyplanet.com

ager can arrange tours and there are regular

bus services (adult $4.10) into Cairns.
York Beachfront Apartments (% 4055 8733;
www.yorkapartments.com.au; 61-3 Sims Esplanade; r $120;
pas) is a midsized complex with good

self-contained apartments. Sliding doors open

on to private balconies and sea views.

Trinity Beach
Thriving Trinity Beach is one of Cairns prettiest beaches. High-rise accommodation is
bumper to bumper but its still a popular place
for Cairns city folk who want to enjoy some
beachy R&R away from Cairns hum.
Set on a bushy block, Trinity Hideaway B&B
(%4057 8972; 56 Jamieson St; s/d $75/90) is a modern
set-up catering to fans of the B&B experience.
Courtesy pick-up is available.
Trinity Beach Club (%4055 6776; www.trinitybeachclub
.com.au; 19-23 Trinity Beach Rd; r $125; pas), run by
an attentive husband and wife team, and a cute
beagle, is a polished midrange option with landscaped garden, modern self-contained apartments with balconies and lifts for the lazy.
Beyond the shopping centre faade, Roydon
(%4057 6512; www.roydon.com.au; 83-87 Vasey Esplanade;
r $145-345; pas) has huge two-bedroom,

two-bathroom apartments, each with a serious balcony and living area.

The Chardonnay set spills onto the curb
side of stellar beachfront diner LUnico Trattoria
(%4057 8855; 75 Vasey St; mains $16.50-39.50, hlunch &
dinner). Share a gourmet pizza on the balcony.
The beachside BYO Atlantis (%4057 8550;
47 Vasey Esplanade; mains $24-29.50; hdinner Mon-Sat)

restaurant keeps them coming with innovative

food such as macadamia nutcrusted tuna
coupled with papaya fondue, and tandoori
prawn skewers with date tartar (yum).

Clifton Beach
Local and leisurely, Clifton Beach is an unassuming spot for those seeking quiet respite.
Backed by green hills, the self-contained
accommodation at Clifton Palms (%4055 3839;
www.cliftonpalms.com.au; 35-41 Upolu Esplanade; cabins/
r/units from $69/90/168; pas) ranges from

one to four bedrooms, making it suited to

families.
Contemporary B&B Clifton Beach Retreat
(%4059 0452, 0407-168 116; www.cliftonbeachretreat
.com.au; d $90) does beach chic in peaceful sur-

rounds with a saltwater pool and barbecue

area. Fresh rooms come with a fridge and
private balconies.

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D C a i r n s N o r t h e r n B e a c h e s 437

The York (%4055 8733; www.yorkapartments.com

.au; 61-63 Sims Esplanade; apt from $135; pas)
has spotless self-contained apartments with
patios or balconies the higher you go, the
better the view. The pool is ideal for lap swimming, while friendly management presides
over Argosy (%4055 3333; www.argosycairns.com; apt
from $165; pas), where there are roomy
self-contained apartments with lipstick palms
out the front and kangaroos feeding out the
back. Ask for an apartment on the side with
wrap-around water views.
Clifton Capers Bar & Grill (%4059 2311; 14 Clifton
Rd; mains around $16.50; hdinner Thu-Tue, lunch Sun) is a
pleasant place with a large la carte menu and
a crowded collection of paintings. Self-caterers
can frequent the supermarket at Clifton Village
Shopping Centre (Captain Cook Hwy).

Palm Cove
The glamourpuss of Cairns northern beaches,
pouty Palm Cove encourages idleness and
indulgence. Waves lap the idyllic tropical
beach shore, palm trees rustle gently and a
host of sprawling international resorts offer
everything from massage to marriage. Dont
expect isolation though; this spot teems with
boutique spa hotels and expensive eateries.
From the Captain Cook Hwy, turn off at
Veivers Rd and follow it to Williams Esplanade, which extends the length of the beach
as far as the jetty. At the Village Shopping Centre
(113 Williams Esplanade) theres a post office, newsagent, moneychanger and internet access. The
Information Station (%4059 8700; holiday@coralhorizons
.com.au; 137 Williams Esplanade) can help out with
accommodation and car bookings.
Beach strolls, leisurely swims and facials
will be your chief pursuits, but if you need
more stimuli head to Cairns Tropical Zoo (%4055
3669; www.cairnstropicalzoo.com; Captain Cook Hwy; adult/
child $28/14; h8.30am-5pm). It has crocodile shows

(11.30am and 3pm) and a koala photo session

at 2.30pm.
SLEEPING

Most of Palm Coves accommodation is

pricey. Theres a lot of development going
on, so ask whether youll get construction
noise with your check-in.
Palm Cove Accommodation (%4055 3797, 0416768 786; 19 Veivers Rd; s/d $65) Amid the five-star
spankiness, Palm Cove is the last bastion of
budget accommodation and its mighty relaxed. Next door to the beauticians, theres

three rooms only, which are all bright and

airy. An absolute bargain.
Silvester Palms (%4055 3831; www.silvesterpalms
.com; 32 Veivers Rd; d $80-140; as) A humble twostorey block of self-contained apartments
with whimsical Australiana paintings on its
exterior. The communal barbecue area and
fenced swimming pool make Silvester a fitting
family option.
Melaleuca Resort (%4055 3222; www.melaleuca
resort.com.au; 85-93 Williams Esplanade; r $161; as)

This is a verdant resort, with 24 self-contained

waterfront apartments. Each has its own
kitchen, balcony and laundry facilities.
Outrigger Beach Club & Spa (%1800 134 444, 4059
9200; www.outrigger.com; 123 Williams Esplanade; r $2951045) The mother-of-pearl reception gleams,

the staff smile and blissed-out spa patrons

waft around this stately resort with two pools,
over 200 rooms, a tennis court and a gym.
Angsana Resort & Spa (%4055 3000; www.angsana
.com; 1 Veivers Rd; r from $415; ais) Popular
with wedding parties, there are one-, two- and
three-bedroom self-contained suites (some
split level) with cushioned lounges and silk
wall hangings. If youre lucky, youll get a
room with a private pool. The spas signature
treatment: a straight-up massage.
Sea Temple (%1800 010 241; www.seatemple.com
.au; Triton St; studios $460, apt from $580) Oh-so-chic
Sea Temple revolves around a tranquil pool
area, and sandstone wings detour guests to
East-meets-West rooms with customised
toiletries and sleek furnishings.
Also recommended is Villa Paradiso (%1800
683 773, 4059 8800; www.villaparadiso.com.au; 111-13
Williams Esplanade; r from $240; as), which has

Mediterranean-themed apartments, while

Palm Cove Camping Ground (%4055 3824; 149 Williams Esplanade; unpowered/powered sites $20/15) is a small
beachfront park.
EATING

CSLC (%4059 1244; Cedar Rd; meals $10-20; hdinner daily

high season, Thu-Sun low season) This locals haunt
serves decent pub grub in its fabulous garden
bar. CSLC has a strict dress code: thongs or
shoes must be worn at all times.
Nu Nu (%4059 1880; 123 Williams Esplanade; mains
$16-37) Applauded by gourmet magazines, this
breezy restaurant sources the best in produce
and patrons. Dinner might consist of smoked
fish with pomelo miang and papaya relish,
whereas breakfasts will have your tastebuds
shouting out for fine food all day long.

QUEENSLAND

436 FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D C a i r n s N o r t h e r n B e a c h e s

With its close proximity to Cairns, Kuranda

keeps em coming on whistle-stop tours that
are greeted by his-and-her safari suits, koala
key rings and other B-grade merchandise. But
its the journey that counts, and certainly the
Skyrail and/or scenic railway trips redeem
this destination from mediocrity. Around
3.30pm, the theme-park atmosphere evaporates, the indigenous population reclaims the
streets and you can appreciate the enchanting rainforest that made it so popular in the
first place.
The Kuranda visitor information centre (%4093
9311; www.kuranda.org; h10am-4pm) is located in
Centenary Park.

Sleeping
Kuranda Rainforest Park (%4093 7316; www.kuranda
rainforestpark.com.au; 88 Kuranda Heights Rd; unpowered/
powered sites $19/22, s/d without bathroom $20/40, units from
$85; sa) This rustic park, set on a rainforest

block, has a good range of affordable accommodation. The restaurant, Kuranda Veranda
(opposite), is a surprisingly classy find amid
the greenery. The park is a 10-minute walk
from town.

Centenary
Park

y
Hw

evers Dr

St

y
ed
nn
Ke

To Kuranda Resort & Spa (1km);

Rainforestation (3km);
Mareeba (36km)

Kuranda B&B (%4093 7151; [email protected]

.au; 28 Black Mountain Rd; s/d $90/130; a) Only the
sounds of nature rouse guests from their
slumber at these spacious and light rooms
situated off a wide veranda. Soak up garden
splendour in the breakfast and reading area.
This excellent B&B is 20 minutes walk from
town. Rates include breakfast.
Kuranda Resort & Spa (%4093 7556; www.kuranda
resortandspa.com; 3 Green Hills Rd; r $119-200; as)

Showing signs of age, this former beauty

feels like a school camp in parts and yet has
a policy of no children under 14 years of age.
All is redeemed by the pool area and some
lovely trimmings (day beds, sound systems
and modernist bush tables) in a couple of the
better rooms.
Also recommended is Kuranda Hotel Motel
(%4093 7206; cnr Arara & Coondoo St; s/d $45/46) Stay
with the regions rogues and celebrities (all
their pictures at least) at this fair dinkum
pub, which offers budget rooms.

Eating
Annabels Pantry (%4093 7605; Therwine St; pies $3.404.50; hbreakfast & lunch) Offering more varieties

t
eS
ore
Tho
14
13
St 12
10
oo
1 oond 15
C
11
St
3
g
ran
Ba

Train
Station

To Cairns
(27km)

16

ero

St

Jumrum Creek
Environmental
Park

d
ls R
Fal

Barron

Rob Vi

QUEENSLAND

Kuranda
Scenic R
ailway
Lookout

To Barron Falls Lookout (3km);

Wrights Lookout (4km)

of pie than there are letters in the alphabet,

Annabels has come up with some creative
fillings, such as the (roo-filled) Matilda.
Nevermind (%4093 8448; 24 Coondoo St; meals $810; hbreakfast & lunch) The hippest place on the
stretch whipping up smoothies, stirring soups
and padding out Turkish pides.
Kuranda Veranda (%4093 7316; Kuranda Rainforest
Park, 88 Kuranda Heights Rd; meals $18.50-28.50; hbrunch
Sun, dinner daily) This restaurant has impeccable

service and an unobstructed rainforest view.

Its all enhanced by the Thai linen, jazzy tunes
and the fact that the food ranging from gusty
jungle curries to delicious dips is tasty. After
Sundays yum cha brunch ($15 per person)
theres live music.
Theres a Foodworks supermarket on
Coondoo Street. Also recommended:
Kuranda Bakery (%4093 8005; cnr Coondoo & Thongon
Sts; hbreakfast & lunch) For a snack on the go, theres
preservative-free pastries and camel with mango pies.
Chillis (%4093 8483; Shop 5, 24 Coondoo St; meals
$5-10; hlunch & dinner) Pizzas, pastas, curries and $5
coffee-and-cake deals.
German Tucker (%4057 9688; Therwine St; dishes
$5-14; hlunch) Fat Kransky sausages.

QUEENSLAND

%07 / pop 2000

displays native and exotic birds. With live

venom extraction demonstrations by a bioprospector and a resident deadly, the funnel
web spider, the Australian Venom Zoo (%4093
8905; 8 Coondoo St; adult/child $16/10; h10am-4pm) is a
no-go zone for an arachnophobe.

TRANSPORT
Skyrail Terminal...............16 C2

River

St

KURANDA

www.australianbutterflies.com; 8 Rob Veivers Dr; adult/child

$14/7.50; h10am-4pm) is a butterfly aviary. Next
door, Birdworld (%4093 9188; www.birdworldkuranda
.com; Heritage Markets; adult/child $14/7; h9am-4pm),

Pioneer
Cemetery
9

Barron

ara
Ar

time around 11am.

EATING
Annabels Pantry.............10 C2
Chillis..............................11 C3
Foodworks.......................12 C2
German Tucker................13 C2
Kuranda Bakery...............14 C2
Kuranda Veranda.............(see 9)
Nevermind.......................15 C3

St

3576; www.crocodileadventures.com; adult/child $28/14;

h 8.30am-5pm). Visit at crocodile-feeding

SLEEPING
Kuranda Hotel Motel.........8 C2
Kuranda Rainforest Park.....9 B2

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Australian Butterfly Sanctuary....2 B2
Australian Venom Zoo...............3 C3
Birdworld.................................(see 4)
Heritage Markets........................4 B2
Kuranda Arts Co-op...................5 B3
Kuranda Markets........................6 B2
Kuranda Rainforest Tours...........7 C2

www.artskuranda.asn.au; Kuranda Settlement Village, 12 Rob

Veivers Dr; h10am-4pm).

Behind the train station, Kuranda Rainforest

Tours (%4093 7476; adult/child $14/7; hhourly 10.30am2.30pm) runs sedate 45-minute cruises along the
Barron River. Check opening times during the
Wet (October to March).
There are several signed walks in the markets, and a short walking track through Jumrum
Creek Environmental Park, which is off Barron Falls
Rd, and has a big population of fruit bats.
Further down, Barron Falls Rd divides: the
left fork takes you to a lookout (thats wheelchair accessible) over the Barron Falls, while
further along the right fork brings you to
Wrights Lookout, which looks down at Barron
Gorge National Park.
Theres loads of wildlife in Kuranda albeit
in zoos. Rainforestation (%4093 9033; www.rainforest
.com.au; Kennedy Hwy; adult/child $36/18; h8.30am-4pm) is
an enormous tourist park with a wildlife section, river cruises and an Aboriginal show.
The Australian Butterfly Sanctuary (%4093 7575;

500 m
0.3 miles

n
go
on
Th

veniently located right on the beach. Imagine

yourself a castaway in the cabins with private
balcony.
Across the road is Ellis Beach Bar & Grill (%4055
3534; Captain Cook Hwy; meals $4.50-19.90), which pumps
out tasty burgers, old-fashioned milkshakes,
homemade scones and lasagne, and has live
music each Sunday during the high season.
For a quiet ale, try the SLSC (%4055 3695; Captain
Cook Hwy). About 20 minutes drive from Ellis
Beach is Hartleys Creek Crocodile Farm (%4055

INFORMATION
Kuranda Visitor Information
Centre...................................1 C3

St

036, 4055 3538; www.ellisbeachbungalows.com; Captain

Cook Hwy; unpowered sites $26, powered sites $30-36, cabins
$80, bungalows $155-180) is a stand-out park, con-

To Kuranda B&B
(700m)

ine
erw
Th

Round the headland past Palm Cove, Ellis

Beach is an absolute stunner, with a long sheltered bay. The best bit? Its not drowning in
development.
Ellis Beach Oceanfront Bungalows (%1800 637

as ceramics, emu oil, jewellery, food and figurines made from pistachio nuts. For genuine
artistry, try the Kuranda Arts Co-op (%4093 9026;

0
0

KURANDA

M
or
to

Ellis Beach

www.kurandaline.com.au/market; Rob Veivers Dr; h9am3pm). Between them youll find souvenirs such

FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D K u r a n d a 439

Heights Rd

has chi-chi beachfront dining at the luxe

Angsana Resort and Spa, while theres always
a crowd at Cockys at the Cove (%4059 1691; Veivers Rd; dishes $4.50-11.50; hbreakfast & lunch), which
serves great breakfasts and sandwiches, or
Il Fornio Pizzeria (%4059 1666; Paradise Village; pizzas $15-17; hdinner) for scrummy thin-crust
pizzas.
Self-caterers should head over to Palm
Cove Supermarket (%4059 0244; Paradise Village;
h7.30am-7pm).

Sights & Activities

Kurandas markets remain ever popular. The
original Kuranda Markets (%4093 8772; 7 Therwine
St; h9am-3pm Wed-Fri & Sun), once famous for
genuine art and craft products, are supplemented by the Heritage Markets (%4093 8060;

lonelyplanet.com

K ur an d a

Far Horizons (%4055 3000; www.angsana.com;

cnr Veivers Rd & the Esplanade; meals $26-75; hdinner)

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

B
Moulack
nta
Rd in

438 FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D K u r a n d a

440 FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D A t h e r t o n Ta b l e l a n d s

Getting There & Away

Kuranda Scenic Railway (%1800 620 324, 4036 9288;
www.traveltrain.com.au; adult/child/concession $35/17.50/25)

winds 34km from Cairns to Kuranda through

picturesque mountains and no fewer than 15
tunnels. The trip takes 1 hours and trains
depart from Cairns at 8.30am and 9.30am
Sunday to Friday, returning from pretty
Kuranda station at 2pm and 3.30pm Sunday
to Friday.
At 7.5km long, Skyrail Rainforest Cableway
worlds longest gondola cableways and gives
a birds-eye view over the expansive rainforest. It runs from the corner of Cairns Western
Arterial Rd and the Cook Hwy in Smithfield, a
northern suburb of Cairns, to Kuranda (Arara
St), taking 90 minutes. It includes two stops
along the way and features boardwalks that
have interpretive panels and passes Barron
Falls (which is reduced to a small stream in
the Dry season). The last departure from
Cairns and Kuranda is at 3.30pm; transfers
to/from the terminal (15 minutes drive north
of Cairns) and combination (Scenic Railway
and Skyrail) deals are also available. As space
is limited, only daypacks are allowed on board
the Skyrail. The Skyrail has advanced ecocertification status.
For information on bus services to/from
Cairns, see p432.

ATHERTON TABLELANDS
Tropical green gives way to heaven-sent
countryside as one moves through the sensuous Tablelands, inland from the coast between
Innisfail and Cairns, and the site of the continents most recent volcanic activity, some
10,000 years ago. With an altitude of more
than 1000m in places, the Tablelands offers
some of the best self-drive terrain around,
but the trick is not to rush it this is slow
travel at its best and a couple of days exploring
the Tablelands waterfalls, lakes and national
parks is seriously relaxing.
GETTING THERE & AROUND

Hire car is the ideal way to get around as

there are so many stops over short distances,
but Whitecar Coaches (%07-4091 1855; www.white
carcoaches.com) has up to four services a day to
Mareeba ($16.80, one hour) and Atherton
($22, 1 hours) from Cairns, with a Saturday morning and afternoon service (only one

service on Sunday and public holidays). On

weekdays there are also onward connections
to Herberton ($28, two hours) and Ravenshoe
($31, 2 hours).
If youre travelling by car, be careful driving
from Mareeba to Cairns as there are no fences
and the Brahmin cattle certainly dont expect
to move out of your way.

Mareeba
%07 / pop 10,920

Mareeba, the rough diamond of the Tablelands,

is where the rainforest meets the outback. Its a
great place to pick up seasonal work, and it has
a few attractions. If youre around in mid-July,
don the RM Williams boots and be sure to see
the Mareeba Rodeo at Kerribee Park.
First stop is the Mareeba Heritage Museum
& Tourist Information Centre (%4092 5674; www
.mareebaheritagecentre.com.au; Centenary Park, 345 Byrnes
St; museum adult/child $5/2.50; h9am-5pm), which

has displays on the areas past and present

commercial industries, as well as its natural
surrounds.
Mareeba Wetlands (%4093 2514; www.mareeba
wetlands.com; adult/child $10/5; h10am-4pm Wed-Sun
Apr-Dec) is a 20-sq-km bird-lovers extravaganza

and you might also see other animals such as

kangaroos and freshwater crocs. Boat tours
cost $8 for an hour-long trip. To reach the
wetlands, take the Pickford Rd turn-off from
Biboohra, 7km north of Mareeba on a gravel
road.
Granite Gorge (www.granitegorge.com.au; admission $5)
offers waterfalls, walking trails around huge
granite formations, rock-wallaby feeding and
a camping ground with kitchen, laundry and
bathroom block (unpowered/powered sites
$5/7). To reach it, follow Chewko Rd out of
Mareeba for 7km; theres a turn-off to your
right from there.
Coffee aficionados will love Coffee Works
(%4092 4101; www.arabicas.com.au; 136 Mason St; tours
$12; h9am-4pm). For a stiffer drop, Golden Pride
Winery (%4093 2750; www.goldendrop.com.au; Bilwon
Rd, Bilwon; h8am-6.30pm) offers tastings of its

sweet mango wine. Head north on the road

to Mount Molloy for 11km and turn right at
Bilwon Rd. Its another 2km to the winery.
SLEEPING & EATING

Jackaroo Motel (%4092 2677; www.jackaroomotel

.com; 340 Byrnes St; r $85; as) Perhaps a bit tidy
for a real jackaroo but those seeking comfort
will appreciate the ultra-clean rooms.

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Nastasis (%4092 2321; 10 Byrnes St; meals $4-8.50;

i) If its fried, theyve got it: dim sims, fish

Atherton

and chips, eggs and bacon, and burgers sizzle

out the door.
More sleeping options:
Mareeba Motor Inn (%4092 2451; Kennedy Hwy; s/d

Capital of the Tablelands, Atherton is a prosperous town that defines this farming and
tourist region with its beguiling people. Its
also a handy place to regroup. The Atherton
Tableland Information Centre (%4091 4222; www

$80/100; ais) Immaculate and functional rooms

with a licensed restaurant.
Riverside Caravan Park (%4092 2309; 13 Egan St;
unpowered/powered sites $11/14) Stunning poinciana
trees surround this ground on the Barron River.

Chillagoe
%07 / pop 231

Chillagoes population is small, unless you

count the number of termites that inhabit
the rich ochre mounds dotting its arid landscape. Around town which consists of a
pub, supermarket and petrol station are
impressive 400-million-year-old limestone
caves, rock pinnacles, ancient coral reefs,
Aboriginal rock art and ruins of early-20thcentury smelters. Its 140km west of Mareeba
(18km of unsealed road) and close enough to
make a day trip from Cairns, but an overnight
stay is preferable.
The Hub (%4094 7111; Queen St; h8am-5pm
Mon-Fri, 8am-3.30pm Sat & Sun) is the visitors centre,
and its here that you can book QPWS cave
tours ($11-13.75) of the stunning Donna (9am),
Trezkinn (11am) and Royal Arch (1.30pm)
limestone caves.
Fully self-contained Chillagoe Cabins (%4094
7206; www.chillagoe.com; Queen St; s/d $95/125; as)

are modelled on rustic miners huts. Theres

also a restaurant on the premises. The friendly
owners are animal carers and you may be able
to pat a kangaroo in their care. Alternatively,
theres the Chillagoe Observatory & Eco-Lodge
(%4094 7155; [email protected]; Hospital Ave; unpowered
& powered sites $16, s/tw $30/55, d $55-70; a), with a

range of cabins and a communal area with

meals.
The portions are enormous at the Post
Office Hotel (%4094 7119; 37 Queen St; meals $10-16;
hlunch & dinner), which sports colourful graffiti
from skirting board to ceiling, and a solid,
marble bar.
Chillagoe can be reached from Mareeba
with the Chillagoe Bus Service (%4094 7155; one
way/return adult $33/66, child $16.50/33), which departs
from Chillagoe post office at 7.30am Monday, Wednesday and Friday and returns from
Mareeba train station at 1pm on Monday and
Friday, or 11.30am on Wednesday.

%07 / pop 8964

.athertontablelands.com.au; cnr Main Rd & Silo Rd; h9am5pm) has useful information including self-

drive itineraries, Queensland-wide booking

facilities and seasonal work updates. Washouse
Internet caf (%4091 2619; 1 Robert St; per hr $5;
h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) has internet access, or try the Atherton Library (%4091 2229;
Robert St; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-12.30pm Sat).
As you approach Atherton from Herberton
in the southwest, the fabulous Hou Wang Temple
(%4091 6945; 86 Herberton Rd; adult/child/concession/family
$7.50/2.50/6/17.50; h10am-4pm) is testament to the

Chinese migrants who flocked to the area to

search for gold in the late 1800s, and is the
only Chinese temple in Australia built of corrugated iron. At the same location, Atherton
Birds of Prey (%4091 6945; www.birdsofprey.com.au;
86 Herberton Rd; adult/child/student/family $13/6.50/10/34;
hshows at 11am & 2pm Wed-Sun) presents entertain-

ing shows with trained falcons, wedge-tailed

eagles and owls.
The Crystal Caves (%4091 2365; www.crystalcaves
.com.au; 69 Main St; adult/child $12.50/6; h8.30am-5pm
Mon-Fri, 8.30am-4pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) is a mineral-

ogical museum in an artificial grotto that

winds for a block under Athertons streets,
and houses rose-quartz boulders, dazzling
blue topaz and assorted fossils. You must
wear a hard hat, and the last miners need
to be there one hour before closing.
Aromatic coffee and delectable baconand-cheese puffs lure the hungry to Gallery 5
(%4091 5577; Main St; meals around $7.50; hbreakfast
& lunch Mon-Sat). Self-caterers can go to the IGA
supermarket (Main St; h7am-8pm).

Many travellers stick around Atherton to

find work and most end up at the familyrun Atherton Travellers Lodge (% 4091 3552;
www.athertontravellerslodge.com.au; 37 Alice St; dm/s/f
$20/36/65, d & tw $45; i), which has a home-

away-from-home vibe and excellent facilities

including a fitted-out kitchen, laundry, pool
table and gym.
Woodlands Tourist Park (%1800 041 441, www
.woodlandscp.com.au; 141 Herberton Rd; unpowered/
powered sites $17/27, cabins from $69, villas from $88;
sa) is a shipshape park with a come-

hither pool.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

(%4038 1555; www.skyrail.com.au; adult/child/family

$39/19.50/97.50; h8.15am-5.15pm) is one of the

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442 FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D A t h e r t o n Ta b l e l a n d s

Lake Tinaroo
%07

Picturesque Lake Tinaroo, or barramundi

heaven, is a recreational magnet for families
and fisherfolk. The enormous artificial lake
and dam were originally created for the Barron River hydroelectric power scheme. Tinaroo
Falls, at the northwestern corner of the lake, is
the main settlement.
Near the Lake Tinaroo turn-off, Tolga Woodworks Gallery & Cafe (%4095 4488; Kennedy Hwy, Tolga;
meals $6-13; h9am-5pm) has lots of tasteful objects
of desire and gourmet meals: linger over a savoury muffin or white-chocolate cheesecake.
Optimising lake views, Lake Tinaroo Terraces
(%4095 8555; www.laketinarooterraces.com.au; Church St; r
$79-135; s) presents clean and modern rooms

The Yungaburra Folk Festival (www.yungaburrafolk

festival.org) is a fabulous community event held
annually in late October. It features music,
workshops, poetry readings and kids activities. The Yungaburra Markets (%4095 2111; Gillies
Hwy; h7am-noon) are held in town on the fourth
Saturday of every month; at this time the town
is besieged by avid craft and food shoppers.
The magnificent 500-year-old Curtain Fig is
a must-see. Looking like a Lord of the Rings
prop, it has aerial roots that hang down to create a feathery curtain. A wheelchair-accessible
viewing platform encircles the tree.
Bookish types will love Spencer & Murphy
Booksellers (%4095 2123; www.spencerandmurphybook
sellers.com.au; 9 Cedar St; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun), a haven
laden with new and secondhand books. The
chatty owner is a hunter and collector of rare
and antiquarian books, including the works of
Australian writer, Ion L Idriess. While youre
at it, grab a coffee.

unpowered/powered sites $20/26, cabins $80, units $90-115)

SLEEPING

is right by the lake and a dream come true for

fisherfolk. Canoe hire (half/full day $25/40) is
available. BYO linen.
From the dam, the unsealed 4WD-only
Danbulla Forest Drive winds through the
Danbulla State Forest beside the lake, finally
emerging on the Gillies Hwy 4km northeast
of Lake Barrine. The road passes several spectacular self-registration lakeside QPWS camping
grounds (%13 13 04; www.epa.qld.gov.au; per person/
family $4.50/18).
Theres a volcanic crater at Mobo Creek, and
6km from the Gillies Hwy a short walk takes
you down to the Cathedral Fig, a gigantic strangler fig tree.

On the Wallaby (%4095 2031; www.onthewallaby.com;

Yungaburra
%07 / pop 1734

The belle of the Tablelands, this former timber

mill town clings to a series of hills and has fostered a quaint village atmosphere with pretty
20th-century architecture and affable locals.
Now top-notch restaurants, superb accommodation, natural wonders and a knock-out
day spa have seen the tourism Richter-scale
soar in this sweet-as-a-chocolate-box town,
but Yungaburra still manages to keep its
misty ambience and friendly feel, so (like
us) you may end up lingering longer than
expected.
Yungaburra Information Centre (%4095 2416;16
Cedar St; per 30min $2.50) has internet access.

34 Eacham Rd; unpowered sites $20, dm/d $20/50; tours from

$25) With its comfy dorms and doubles, tim-

ber interiors and nightly barbecues ($8 per

person), this earthy place is one of Far North
Queenslands best hostels. Theres a plethora
of excellent nature-based tours, free pick-ups
from Atherton and one-way transfers from
Cairns ($25 per person).
Gables B&B (%4095 2373; 5 Eacham Rd; s $65, d with/
without breakfast $80/70) This historic Queenslander
with shutter windows and friendly hosts has
two rooms, including one with a spa and the
other with a kitchen, and en suites. Breakfast
consists of bread and fruit.
Kookaburra Lodge (%4095 3222; www.kookaburra
-lodge.com; cnr Oak St & Eacham Rd; s, d & tw $80; as)

Amid a tropical garden, Kookaburra has

stylish rooms with shady patios fanning out
around the pale-blue pool. There are big soft
couches to sink into in the communal lounge
room.
Willows Lodge (%4095 3449; www.williamslodge
.com; Cedar St; r $130-200; as) An immaculate
restoration of a home with a firm foot in the
towns history. Rooms here have spas, CD
players and coffee plungers. A fireplace to get
cosy by, and knock-out views across the hills
from a classic veranda make this a fine option.
Rates are cheapest Sunday to Thursday.
Yungaburra Mountain Spa & Retreat (%4095 2511;
www.yungaburraspa.com.au; 22 Gillies Hwy; villas from $185)

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Intimate new villas designed for discerning

couples with king-size beds, private courtyards,
sleek sound systems and double spas. Reinvent
yourself with hydro oxygen and his-and-her
treatments ($65 to $385) at the day spa. This
whole den of decadence is understated yet
indulgent. Ask about special deals.
Allumbah Pocket Cottages (%4095 3023; www
.allumbahpocketcottages.com.au; 24-26 Gillies Hwy; cottages
$207; ais) Old cottages modernised into

self-contained abodes with timber flooring

and private balconies. Breakfast is included.
EATING

Cedars Coffee Shop (%4095 3913; Lot 5, Cedar St; meals

$6-10; hlunch) Very Cider House Rules, Cedars
is all cuteness and comfort. Nestle in the
garden courtyard with a toasty focaccia or
plunge your fork into a slice of bananas in
Bahamas cake.
Eden House (%4095 3355; 20 Gillies Hwy; mains $2629; hdinner Fri-Mon) Fragrant gardenia greets
diners at this early 19th-century house-cumrestaurant where the emphasis is on matching
food and wine. Tequila prawns, followed by
crme brle with marinated strawberries and
coconut tuile make for a memorable meal.
oFlynns (%4095 2235; 17 Eacham Rd; mains
$27-30; hdinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sat & Sun) A Kiwi culinary maestro prepares authentic French and
Italian dishes with soul, attracting diners from
far and wide. Whether eating slow-roasted
duck or linguine with prawns, the emphasis is on savouring every morsel. You can
dine streetside or on the terrace out the back.
There are boutique beers and fine Australian
wine aplenty to complement the carte du jour
menu. Reservations are recommended.
Nicks Restaurant (%4095 3330; 33 Gillies Hwy;
hlunch Wed-Sun, dinner Tue-Sun) Much-loved SwissItalian food is the go here.

birds cracking in lush rainforest, and there

are some sensational picnic spots. Stop in at
the rangers station for information on the area
or to gawk at the native python. Youll find it
4km from Yungaburra.
Bird-lovers flock to Chambers Wildlife Rainforest Lodge (%07-4095 3754; www.rainforest-australia.com;
Eacham Close; r $130; as), which is embedded
in the national park. There are tired-looking
self-contained cabins, and landing platforms
about the place for visiting birds all of which
enjoy celebrity status (some 42 wildlife documentaries have been made here) and 1.3km
of walking tracks on the property.
At Crater Lakes Rainforest Cottages (%07-4095
2322; www.craterlakes.com.au; Eacham Close, off Lakes
Dr; d incl breakfast $210; a) Timber cabins have

their own patch of rainforest where you can

watch pademelon wallabies and musky rat
kangaroos. Inside alluring interiors are fit for
a princess (or a wildlife junkie!) and come
with wood-burner heating, spa baths, fully
fitted kitchens and a breakfast hamper for
your first morning rooms drop in price on
the second night.
Lake Eacham Tourist Park (%07-4095 3730; www
.lakeeachamtouristpark.com; 71 Lakes Dr; unpowered/powered
sites $16/19, cabins $72-80), less than 2km down

the Malanda road from Lake Eacham, is a

rambling park with a camp kitchen.
LAKE BARRINE

Theres a 5km track around this crater lake

formed by volcanic explosions. Its 18km east
of Atherton via the Gillies Hwy.
Spoil yourself with a Devonshire tea at Lake
Barrine Rainforest Cruise & Tea House (%07-4095
3847; Gillies Hwy; meals $6-14; hbreakfast & lunch) and
spot water dragons and tortoises on the 40minute cruise (adult/child $14/7; hcruises at 10.15am,
11.30am, 1.30pm, 2.30pm & 3.30pm).

Crater Lakes National Park & Around

Malanda

Part of the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area,

the two mirror-like volcanic lakes of Lake
Eacham and Lake Barrine, off the Gillies Hwy
east of Yungaburra, are beautiful swimming
and picnicking spots encircled by rainforest
walking tracks. Both lakes are national parks,
but camping is not allowed.

%07 / pop 1530

LAKE EACHAM

The crystal-clear waters of Lake Eacham are

great for swimming and spotting turtles. The
secluded area echoes with the call of whip

Part of the waterfall circuit, Malanda is about

15km south of Lake Eacham and has the nations longest continually running picture theatre, the Majestic (established 1927) but remains
Yungaburras country-bumpkin cousin. The
Malanda Falls Visitors Centre (%4096 6957; Atherton
Rd; h9.30am-4.30pm) has thoughtful displays
on the areas human and geological history,
and runs guided rainforest walks (adult/student/
child $10/7/4) led by members of the Ngadjonji
community on Thursday and Friday between

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

and self-contained two-storey terraces with

two bedrooms. All are superb value. Boat hire
(half/full day $85/65) is available.
Hedged by Cyprus pines, Lake Tinaroo Holiday
Park (%4095 8232; www.Itholidaypark.com.au; Dam Rd;

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444 FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D A t h e r t o n Ta b l e l a n d s

9am and 2pm and on the weekend between

9am and noon.
Along the Atherton road, on the outskirts of
town, are Malanda Falls, where saw-shelled turtles and red-legged pademelons can be seen.
On the Millaa Millaa Rd, 10km from Malanda, is the tiny village of Tarzali, which offers
some accommodation options.
Boutique eco-accommodation doesnt get
much better than Fur n Feathers (%4096 5364;
www.rainforesttreehouses.com.au; Hogan Rd, Tarzali via Malanda; units/treehouses/family houses from $190/305/415;
a). Seven all-timber pole houses are set in

a stunning and pristine patch of old-growth

rainforest. The private riverfront treehouses
are self-contained and perfect for spotting
wildlife. From the customised bed covers to
handmade soaps, spas wedged into rainforest
views and recline-in-me lounges, everything
has been thought of. Children recipients of
wildlife spotting certificates are welcome.
Malanda Lodge Motel (%4096 5555; www.malanda
is a bit dated but remains a popular wedding
venue. If it feels as though the solid brick
walls of your room are closing in, escape to
the grassy gardens or the lovely refuge of the
pool.
Tree Kangaroo Caf (%4096 6658; Atherton Rd; meals
$4-10; hbreakfast & dinner; i) is next door to the
Environmental Centre and serves stopgap
food.

Millaa Millaa & the Waterfall Circuit

The 16km waterfall circuit near this small
town, 24km south of Malanda and home to
a Kauri pine tree estimated to be 1000 years
old, passes some of the most picturesque falls
on the Tablelands. Enter the circuit by taking Theresa Creek Rd, 1km east of Millaa
Millaa on Palmerston Hwy. Millaa Millaa Falls,
the largest of the falls, are a perfect sheet of
water dropping over a fern-fringed escarpment. These are the most spectacular and have
the best swimming hole. Continuing round
the circuit, you reach Zillie Falls and then the
pick of the lot, Ellinjaa Falls, before returning to
the Palmerston Hwy just 2.5km out of Millaa
Millaa. A further 5.5km down the Palmerston
Hwy theres a turn-off to Mungalli Falls, 5km
off the highway.
At Mungalli Creek Dairy (%07-4097 2232; www
.mungallicreekfarmhouse.com.au; 254 Brooks Rd; meals
$6-12; h10am-4pm) you can relish boutique

biodynamic dairy products including chai

yoghurt, cheese and sinfully rich cheesecake

and, while youre at it, check out the cheesemaking room. Samples are offered.
Whether its hand milking a cow or feeding
an infant goat a bottle, theres plenty of rosycheeked relaxation to be had at Acton Ridge Farmstay (%07-4097 2293; www.actonridgefarmstay.com; 122
Nash Rd; per adult $125), an 81-hectare working farm
welcoming guests. Theres a unit thats ideal
for families and rooms in the farm house with
shared bathroom. Rates include all meals.
Dairy folk and waterfall seekers gather at
the Falls Teahouse (%07-4097 2237; www.fallsteahouse
.com.au; Palmerston Hwy; s $65-95, d with/without bathroom
$150/110, meals $8-14; h10am-5pm Fri-Wed) overlook-

ing the rolling Tablelands hills. You might

try homemade pasta, curry or sandwiches
made from home-baked bread. The dairymans lunch ($12) is a signature dish. B&B
rooms are individually furnished with period
fixtures and fittings. Its on the turn-off to
Millaa Millaa Falls.
There are cabins at Millaa Millaa Tourist Park
(% 4097 2290; www.millaapark.com; 86 Malanda Rd;
unpowered/powered sites $17/22, d $30-75; as) and

you can camp at Henrietta Creek between

Milla Millaa and Innisfail.

Herberton

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be a scene from a sci-fi film and certainly

adds some vertigo to the itinerary. Its a scenic
800m (return) walk from the picnic area, past
Dinner Falls, to this narrow, 138m-deep crater
with its moody-looking lake far below.

bars. One backpacker bemoaned theres not

a whole lot to do unless you have a lot of
money and its true the town dances to the
beat of flash restaurants and retail. But it is a
great base to tour the Low Isles, Great Barrier
Reef, Mossman Gorge, Atherton Tablelands
and Cape Tribulation.

Ravenshoe
%07 / pop 846

With an altitude of 920m, Ravenshoe is the

highest town in Queensland. Ravenshoe Visitor
Centre (%4097 7700; www.ravenshoevisitorcentre.com.au;
24 Moore St; h9am-4pm) has maps and is home to
the Nganyaji Interpretive Centre, which explains
the Jirrbal peoples traditional lifestyle.
Windy Hill Wind Farm is Australias largest
wind farm, with 20 wind turbines producing
a clean, green energy supply. Public viewing
access is available 24 hours a day, with views
of the quiet energy source. Windy Hill can be
reached from either the Kennedy Hwy, from
Ravenshoe, or from Millaa Millaa, along the
scenic Old Palmerston Hwy.
Little Millstream Falls are 2km south of Ravenshoe on the Tully Gorge Rd, and Tully Falls are
24km south. About 6km past Ravenshoe and
1km off the road are the 13m-high Millstream
Falls (no swimming), said to be the widest in
Australia during full flood.

%07 / pop 969

Kennedy Hwy

Peaceful Herberton is nestled in the crease of

one of the areas rolling hills. It is a historic
tin-mining town and many of its original
buildings are still intact.
The visitors centre (%4096 2244; Great Northern
Mining Centre, Jacks Rd) is located on the site of
an old mine.
Herberton Heritage Cottage B&B (%4096 2032;

About 32km west of Ravenshoe is the small

township of Innot Hot Springs, where a hot spring
heats up the cool waters of the towns creek.
You can take the waters at Innot Hot Springs
Village (%/fax 07-4097 0136; unpowered/powered sites
$18/22, budget s/d $40/55, cabins s/d $75/90; s). Paying
guests have free use of the parks seven thermal
pools (nonguests adult/child $6/5; h8am-6pm). Nearby,
the Hot Springs Hotel (%07-4097 0203; meals $10.9019.90; hdinner, lunch by appointment) is lauded as
offering a good feed thats bangers n mash
and mixed grillstyle fare.

www.herbertoncottage.com; 2 Perkins St; s/d $170/180; a)

has ladylike namesake rooms and is the best

option in town. Expect lots of polished wood
surfaces, potbelly heating and high comfy
beds.
There are basic motel-style rooms (single/
double $25/50) available at the Australian Hotel
(%4096 2263; 44 Grace St; mains $12-16; hlunch & dinner), while Wild River Caravan Park (%4096 2121; 23
Holdcroft Dr; unpowered/powered sites $10/15, cabins $70) is

on the edge of town, with an attractive aspect

and a BYO restaurant (meals $12.50 to $18).

Mt Hypipamee National Park

Between Atherton and Ravenshoe, the
Kennedy Hwy passes the eerie, and hard to
pronounce, Mt Hypipamee crater, which could

PORT DOUGLAS
%07 / pop 5867

Fetching Port Douglas, or Port Dougie as

its known, has long been submerged in the
southern consciousness as a sun-drenched
place to flee winters. Enter luxury townhouses
for baby-boomer retirees and Sydneysiderfriendly menus. The low-rise town sits at
the end of Davidson St with its line-up of
palm trees like the svelte beauties all sequin
kaftans, hoop earrings and thin slides who
saunter between the main streets cafs and

Orientation & Information

From the Captain Cook Hwy its 6km along a
low spit of land to Port Douglas. Davidson St,
the main entry road, ends at a T-intersection
with Macrossan St. To the left is the town
centre with most of the shops and restaurants;
the beach is to the right.
Port Douglas visitor information centre (%4099
5599; www.tourismportdouglas.com.au; 23 Macrossan St;
h8am-6.30pm) has maps, and theres internet
access at Uptown (%4099 5568; www.uptown.com.au;
48 Macrossan St; per 30min $5).

Sights & Activities

Youre likely to put in at least a few hours or
days on the gorgeous Four Mile Beach: a band of
white sand backed by palms that stretches as
far as your squinting eyes can see. You can hire
a jet ski with Extra Action Watersports (%4099 3175;
[email protected]; per 30min $85) or go on
its two-hour Reef Sprinter reef-snorkelling trip
(adult/child $100/80). Otherwise you can just
lie on the beach for hours the Munch buggy
plies the length of the beach selling ice creams
and snacks.
The excellent Rainforest Habitat (%4099 3235;
www.rainforesthabitat.com.au; Port Douglas Rd; adult/child/
student $29/14.50/26.10; h8am-5pm) is a wildlife

sanctuary showcasing native animals in enclosures that closely mimic their natural environment. Koalas, kangaroos, crocs and tree
kangaroos reside here alongside parrots, wading birds, cassowaries, the worlds only pair of
breeding jabiru in captivity and an unusually
vocal lorikeet renowned for its 13 different
calls. You can dine with winged companions
at Breakfast with the Birds (incl admission $39/19.50;
h8-10.30am) or Lunch with the Lorikeets (incl admission $39/19.50; hnoon-2pm).
The Port Douglas Markets (Anzac Park; h8.30am1.30pm Sun), at the bottom of Macrossan St,
make for a leisurely Sunday morning with
aura readings, local arts and even old fashioned ice-cups.
St Marys by the Sea (Anzac Park) is a tiny nondenominational white-timber chapel that
was built in 1911 and a nominee for prettiest

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

lodgemotel.com.au; Millaa Millaa Rd; s/d $83/95; as)

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446 FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D P o r t D o u g l a s

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0
0

PORT DOUGLAS
To Low Isles
(15km)

Island Point

Anzac
Park

INFORMATION
Uptown.............................(see 7)
Visitor Information Centre...1 B2

Children's
Playground
Area
Pier

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Extra Action Watersports.....2 A2
Port Douglas Markets...........3 B1
Port Douglas Yacht Club......4 A3
Quicksilver Dive School...(see 38)
St Mary's by the Sea............5 A1

28

27
Paddy's Bar
35
30
24
6
40 32
34
36
Mu
rph
29
42
y
1
St
M
ac 16
25
r
Flagstaff
o
t
Inlet S
ss
37
Hill Lookout
7
an
W
a
t
S
31
r
43
S
t
ne
t
r
39
an M
St
Gr
2
ow
26
11
38
br
ay 13
22
Train
8
St
Station
10
14
17

Dixie St
Jetties 33

CORAL
SEA

St

Magazine
Island

23

Esplanad
e

ha
rf

St

we

Marina
Mirage

19

4
Mudlo
St

12
9
15
21

Sand St

St

Port Doug
hlas Rd

18

St

Davids
on

eek

Cr
P o rt

Tide S
t

Four
Mile
Beach

Trinity
Bay

Tech Dive Academy.................6 B1

Tour Companies..................(see 38)
SLEEPING
Accommodation Port
Douglas............................... 7
Archipelago.............................8
Dougies....................................9
Hibiscus Gardens....................10
Martinique.............................11
Pandanus Caravan Park..........12
ParrotFish Lodge....................13
Peninsula Boutique Hotel.......14
Pink Flamingo........................15
Port Central............................16
Port Douglas Retreat..............17
Port o' Call Lodge..................18
Queenslander.........................19
Tropic Breeze Van Village.......20
Tropical Nites.........................21
Verandahs..............................22

B2
C2
B4
B2
C2
B4
B2
C2
B4
B2
B2
B3
B2
B3
B4
B2

EATING
2 Fish.....................................23 A1
Coles......................................24 B1
Court House Hotel...............(see 35)
Deli on Grant.........................25 B2
Go Sushi.................................26 B2
Iron Bar...............................(see 36)
Java Blue................................27 B1
La Cucina...............................28 B1
Mango Jam Cafe....................29 B2
Nautilus..................................30 B1
On the Inlet...........................31 A2
Salsa Bar & Grill......................32 A1
Soul 'n' Pepper.......................33 A1
Under Wraps..........................34 B2
DRINKING
Court House Hotel..................35 B1
Iron Bar..................................36 B2
Port Douglas Yacht Club .......(see 4)
Watergate..............................37 B2

Links
Golf
Course
To Daintree Lounge
(Sheraton Mirage) (500m);
Rainforest Habitat (4km);
Mossman (20km); Cairns (67km);
Cape Tribulation (82km)

TRANSPORT
Boats to Low Isles & Reef.......38
Holiday Car Hire.....................39
Port Douglas Bike Hire...........40
Port Douglas Car Rental.........41
Port Douglas Taxis.................42
Thrifty....................................43

A2
B2
A1
B3
B2
B2

church in the Land of Oz (hence the two-year

wait for wedding ceremonies).
Ever dreamed of sailing on a yacht? Well,
the benevolent folk at the Port Douglas Yacht Club

in Palm Cove; transfers from Port Douglas

are included.

(%4099 4386; www.portdouglasyachtclub.com.au; Wharf St)

LOW ISLES TRIPS

run sunset sessions each Wednesday, a fun

and free way to get a taste of boating life on
a 1-hour tour. Register at the Yacht Club at
4pm; boats leave at 5pm (BYO drinks).
Several companies offer a PADI openwater certification as well as advanced dive
certificates. Tech Dive Academy (%4099 6880;

There are several cruises to the Low Isles,

a small coral cay surrounded by a lagoon
and topped by a lighthouse. It offers good
snorkelling and the chance to see turtle nesting grounds.
Sailaway (%4099 4772; www.sailawayportdouglas.com;

www.tech-dive-academy.com; 1/18 Macrossan St; 4-day

courses $695) provide instruction with four to
six per class. Quicksilver Dive School (%4099 5050;
www.quicksilverdive.com.au; Marina Mirage; 4-day courses
$550) holds two days of its training course

Tours

adult/child $140/85) Great for families. A maximum of 27

passengers.
Shaolin (%4099 1231; www.shaolinportdouglas.com;
adult/child $140/85) A refitted Chinese junk, the Shaolin
has snorkelling cruises (maximum 23). Sails from noon to
6.30pm.

FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D P o r t D o u g l a s 447

Wavedancer (%4087 2100; www.quicksilver-cruises

.com; adult/child from $132/66) Recommended.
SV Malaita (%0407-130 648; www.malaita.com.au)
These trips get positive feedback. Try for a trip on Monday,
Wednesday or Friday for island snorkelling.

Cod Hole and Osprey Reef; departing weekly from Port

Douglas.
Wavelength (%4099 5031; www.wavelength.com.au;
adult/child $165/115) Snorkelling cruise only (maximum
30) to three gorgeous outer reef sites. Good crew.

FISHING & SAILING

OTHER TOURS

Reef, river and land-based fishing charters

operate regularly out of Port Douglas. Prices
range from $90 for a half-day group tour on
the Daintree River to anywhere between $2500
and $7000 per day on the mother ship. Fishing Port Douglas (%4098 5354; www.fishingportdouglas
.com.au) has details. Out n About (%4098 5204;
[email protected]; tours from $90) specialises in estuary and reef fishing trips.

There are numerous operators offering day

trips to Cape Tribulation, some via Mossman
Gorge. Many of the tours out of Cairns also
do pick-ups from Port Douglas.
BTS Tours (%4099 5665; adult/child/family return

REEF TRIPS

The unrelenting surge of visitors to the reef off

Port Douglas has impacted on its general condition, and although youll still see colourful
corals and marine life, it has become patchy
in parts. Reef trips generally include reef tax,
snorkelling and transfers from your accommodation, plus lunch and refreshments. Add
around $200/$180 for an introductory/certified dive. Think about what you want out
of your reef outing and then consider these
recommended operators:
Aristocat (%4099 4727; www.aristocat.com.au; adult/
child $150/100) James Bond would approve. Maximum 45
passengers.
Haba (%4098 5000; www.habadive.com.au; adult/child
$155/95) Carries a glass-bottom boat and ventures to two
sites. Maximum 80 passengers.
Poseidon (%1800 085 674; www.poseidon-cruises
.com.au; adult/child $155/120) Fast day suiting divers.
Family-run.
Quicksilver (%4087 2100; www.quicksilver-cruises
.com; adult/child $195/100) The giant Wavepiercer, which
takes over 400, visits the outer reef. Helmet diving available. Family and wheelchair friendly.
Silver Series (%4087 2100; www.silverseries.com
.au; adult/child $150/110) The Silversonic trip gets great
feedback.
Synergy 2 (%4050 0675; www.synergyreef.com
.au; adult/child $235/165) Outer reef tours and limo
transfers on this upmarket tour. Maximum of 12
passengers.
Tallarook (%4099 4990; www.tallarooksail.com;
adult/child $150/90) Sails to Tongue Reef in just under two
hours (maximum 25).
Under Sea Explorer (%1800 648 877; www.undersea
.com.au; Shop 4, Princes Wharf; trips from $1900) Marine
research vessel with live-aboard six- to nine-day trips to

$50/26/139) Tours to Mossman Gorge and the Daintree

River.
Reef & Rainforest Connections (%4099 5333;
www.reefandrainforest.com.au; adult/child from $105/55)
A range of day-long ecotours including Cape Trib and
Bloomfield Falls, Kuranda and Mossman Gorge.
Wind Swell (%0427-498 042, 4098 2167; Barrier St;
from $99) Kitesurfing for beginners to high flyers.

Sleeping
Low-season rates are quoted here; stand-by
rates are available in some instances so inquire, and negotiate.
Accommodation Port Douglas (%4099 5355; www
.accomportdouglas.com.au; 1/48 Macrossan St; h9am-5pm
Mon-Sat) is an agent for many holiday rentals.
BUDGET

Dougies (%1800 996 200, 4099 6200; www.dougies.com

.au; 111 Davidson St; dm $25, d & tw $70, stylie tents per
person $20, unpowered sites $24; ais) The sandy-

feet crowd can be found at Dougies. Its a

popular place with easy-going staff. Dorms
have pine bunks and lockers, and its a popular
place to pitch a tent. Free transfers are available from Cairns between 10.30am and 11am
on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday.
ParrotFish Lodge (%1800 995 011, 4099 5011; www
.parrotfishlodge.com; 37-39 Warner St; dm $28-30, d & tw with/
without bathroom $95/85; ais) This spilt-level,

purpose-built hostel is modern and beachy

with vibrant blue swirling floors, mural-sized
contemporary art, and a chatty bar and bistro
with occasional live music. The saltwater pool
is made for morning laps or an afternoon
submerge.
Also recommended:
Port o Call Lodge (%1800 892 800, 4099 5422;
www.portocall.com.au; cnr Port St & Craven Close; dm
$25-30, d $69-110; ais) Large YHA hostel with a
range of rooms, plus a bar and bistro. Free courtesy coach
to/from Cairns (Monday to Saturday) with stays of two or
more nights.

QUEENSLAND

ers

ck

Garrick

St

Reynolds
Park
41

Pa

QUEENSLAND

Swimming
Enclosure

20

Oval

500 m
0.3 miles

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

448 FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D P o r t D o u g l a s

Port Central (%4099 4488; r from $59; a) Blink and

youll miss it, but its central and hotel-style rooms have
bathrooms and fridge.

close to the beach, it has laundry facilities and

landscaped gardens.
Hibiscus Gardens (%4099 5315; www.hibiscusport

MIDRANGE

douglas.com.au; cnr Mowbray & Owen Sts; r from $180;

ais) This good-looking resort does

The Queenslander (%4099 5199; www.queenslander

.com.au; 8-10 Mudlo St; d apt $105, d unit from $116; as)

Quiet and friendly, the Queenslanders bedrooms open onto balconies and theres separate bathrooms, kitchens and living rooms
fitted with cane furniture in each unit. The
owner-operator family can book tours.
Archipelago (%4099 5387; www.archipelago.com
.au; 72 Macrossan St; d from $113; asp) Very near
the beach, this complex has 12 self-contained
rooms spread over three levels. The upper
rooms have filtered views to the beach
through trees and other properties. Rooms
are plain with dashes of colour, balconies
and cane furniture.
oPink Flamingo (%4099 6622; www.pink

tasteful rooms with Indonesian furniture and

bright cushions. Studio rooms face the rear
garden while one bedroom rooms overlook the
pool lined with turtle sculptures and the occasional Buddha. The on-site spa specialises in
indigenous healing techniques and products.
TOP END

Verandahs (%4099 6650; www.verandahsportdouglas

.com.au; 7 Davidson St; r $150-295; as) These twobedroom, two-bathroom apartments come
replete with stainless-steel kitchens, polished
floorboards, behind-the-scenes laundry and
barbecues on the balconies. Apartments are
serviced daily.
Peninsula Boutique Hotel (%4099 9100; www

flamingo.com.au; 115 Davidson St; studio r from $125, villas

from $185; as) Gay-owned and -operated,

.peninsulahotel.com.au; 9-13 Esplanade; s/d from $300/340;

ais) Private and luxurious, this 34-room

the cheeky Pink Flamingo welcomes openminded adults. Garden walkways separate
seductive self-contained villas with private
courtyards and outdoors baths. Cheaper studios are more motel-style with sail-topped
patios and candelabras. Its bold and colourful with a BYO poolside bar and bike rental
($10 daily). A shagged sign on your door
might be the fitting end to an arduous day
of holidaying.
Port Douglas Retreat (%4099 5053; www.port

hotel is geared mainly towards couples and

newlyweds. Expect modern self-contained
apartments across from Four Mile Beach and
a superb pool. Rates include buffet breakfast
and airport transfers.

douglasretreat.com.au; 31-33 Mowbray St; r from $129)

Newly refurbished self-contained rooms with

wicker bed heads, contemporary sleekness
and courtyard dining make this a good-value
option. The 20m pool is lit by gas lights at
night and guests are welcome to use the big
barbecue.
Tropical Nites (%4099 5666; www.tropicalnites.com
.au; 119 Davidson St; townhouse from $135; as) These
12 townhouses are perfect for those wanting
to stretch their legs; each sleeps up to three
couples. A contemporary look is achieved
with granite benchtops and stainless-steel
appliances in the kitchen. A lovely Yorkshire
couple presides over this spick-and-span operation, making it an excellent choice.
Martinique (%4099 6222; www.martinique.com.au;
66 Macrossan St; r from $150; as) This terracottacoloured block contains lovely one-bedroom
apartments, each with small kitchen, cable TV
and private balcony. On the main street and

CAMPING

Tropic Breeze Van Village (%/fax 4099 5299; 24 Davidson

St; unpowered sites $26, powered sites $28-30, on-site cabins
from $75; s) Central and close to the beach with

shady tent sites, spotless shared bathrooms, a

camp kitchen and lots of wiry fig trees.
Pandanus Caravan Park (%4099 5944; 97-107 Davidson St; unpowered/powered sites $22/27, cabins from $62;
s) Expansive park with timber cabins.

Eating
o2 Fish (%4099 6350; 7/20 Wharf St; mains $21-35;
hlunch & dinner) Fish and chips just got a whole

lot classier at this sassy seafood eatery. Think

wasabi oysters, or crispy fried mud crab with
sticky black rice washed down with a chilled
white wine. Match your favourite fish, perhaps
coral trout or red emperor, with one of six
methods of preparation. A selection of meat
dishes is also available.
Soul n Pepper (%4099 4499; 2 Dixie St; meals $1428; hlunch Mon-Sat, breakfast & dinner daily) A fitting
haunt for pirates, this weather-beaten outdoor
caf is the place to come for breakfast. In the
afternoon, the menu shifts to seafood risottos
and the like.

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FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D P o r t D o u g l a s 449

Salsa Bar & Grill (%4099 4922; 26 Wharf St; meals $1433; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat) This white weather-

newspapers awaiting luscious smoothies, Caesar salads and

chock-a-block focaccias.
Under Wraps (%4099 5972; 22 Macrossan St; dishes
$5.90-8.90; hlunch Wed-Sun) Gourmet sandwiches,
wraps, soups and smoothies.

board offers umbrella dining to the soothing

sounds of a water feature. Menu items such
as passionfruit and palm sugarcured trout
make the most of regional produce.
Mango Jam Cafe (%4099 4611; 24 Macrossan St;
mains $12-21) Large licensed family restaurant
serves all your casual favourites, such as roast
chicken and crumbed calamari. The speciality
is gourmet wood-fired pizza, which can be
delivered to your accommodation.
On the Inlet (%4099 5255; 3 Inlet St; mains around
$25; hlunch & dinner) This excellent seafood restaurant has tables spread along a sprawling
deck. Your attentive waiter will recommend
a wine to match your yellowfin tuna crusted
in vermicelli, or salmon stacked with prawn
and avocado. The pre-dinner deal (3.30pm
to 5.30pm) gets you a bucket of prawns and a
drink for $18 or oyster shooters for $5, plus a
groper-feeding session at 5.15pm.
La Cucina (%4099 6100; cnr Wharf & Macrossan Sts;
mains $28-38) Putting the c back into classic
Italian cuisine, La Cucina is poised beautifully
in front of Anzac Park and serves pastas and
risottos, pared back to just a few perfectly
balanced ingredients. The coffee is deftly prepared, and the desserts are positively inspired.
Next door, La Cucina does its take on pizzas
(thats hawaiiana pizza) and tapas.
Nautilus (%4099 5330; 17 Murphy St; mains $37-40;
hdinner) Be seated in chairs fit for Pacific Island royalty at this ultimate event restaurant.
Whether its French seafood broth or wild
barramundi, the experience is about just being
in the flame-lit rainforest surrounds. Dont
miss the jackfruit brle.
There are good counter meals on offer
at the Iron Bar (%4099 4776; 5 Macrossan St; meals
$8.90-26.90; hlunch & dinner) and, a notch above,
the Court House Hotel (meals $15-23.50; hlunch &
dinner). Self-caterers can head to Coles (Port Village, Macrossan St; h8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5.30pm Sat,
9am-6pm Sun).

Caf options:
Deli on Grant (%4099 5852; 11 Grant St; meals $8-12;
hbreakfast & lunch) Unleash the gourmand in you with
a range of boutique produce, baguettes and pre-cooked
homemade meals to take away. The Deli also does picnic
hampers, with three hours notice.
Go Sushi (%4099 4336; cnr Macrossan & Davidson Sts;
hlunch) Health-on-the-go.
Java Blue (%4099 5814; Shop 3, 2 Macrossan St;
hbreakfast & lunch) Caf-goers sit outside with

Drinking
oPort Douglas Yacht Club (%4099 4386; Wharf
St) With some of the cheapest drinks in town,

drinking up the views of Dixons Inlet at this

chilled place is easy. Its a popular hangout for backpackers on Wednesday nights.
Theres live music every Sunday from 5pm to
9pm and Australian bistro fare, plus curries,
every night.
Watergate (%4099 6665; cnr Grant & Macrossan Sts)
Watergate is all bronze and shimmer, attracting Ports trendsetters, who loll around on the
chocolate couches and flitter to the long bar
for cocktail ensembles.
Court House Hotel (%4099 5181; cnr Macrossan &
Wharf Sts) Commanding a corner location, this
pub has a pleasant open-air courtyard populated by low-key drinkers and the turnedup-collar brigade. Cover bands entertain the
crowd on weekends.
Iron Bar (%4099 4776; 5 Macrossan St) The atmosphere here is so convivial that nobody
seems to notice the place looks like a country
woolshed in fact it was good enough for
a certain Hollywood A-lister who filmed a
movie in town in 2006. Tuesday, Thursday
and Sunday nights hop to cane-toad races.

Getting There & Away

For information on getting to/from Cairns,
see p432. About every 15 minutes, buses ply
Maccrossan St and theres a bus stop of sorts
outside Paddys Bar. Buses also pick people
up at the Marina too.
Coral Reef Coaches (%4098 2600; www.coralreef
coaches.com.au) connects Port Douglas with
Mossman ($5, 20 minutes), Cow Bay ($22,
two hours), Daintree Village (on request, two
hours), Cape Tribulation ($30, 2 hours) and
Cairns ($20, 1 hours).
Sun Palm (%4084 2626; www.sunpalmtransport
.com) runs daily services from Port Douglas
to Cairns ($30, 1 hours). Services to Mossman ($10, 20 minutes) and Cape Tribulation
($35, three hours) depart from Port Douglas
at 8.30am, 12.30pm and 4.30pm.
Port Douglas BTS Bus (%4099 5665; www.portdouglas
bus.com) has three return services a day to Mossman Gorge (adult/child $16/8) and two return

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

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450 FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D M o s s m a n

services a day to the Daintree River, including

a one-hour cruise (adult/child $40/20).

Getting Around
Airport Connections (%4099 5950; www.tnqshuttle.com;
one way $26.50; h3.30am-4.30pm) runs an hourly
shuttle-bus service to/from Cairns airport, as
does Sun Palm (%4084 2626; www.sunpalmtransport
.com; adult $30), though less frequently.
Pedalling around compact Dougie is a
sensible transport method. Hire bikes from
Port Douglas Bike Hire (%4099 5799; www.portdouglas
bikehire.com; cnr Warner & Wharf Sts; per day from $18;
h9am-5pm). The staff here can give you

directions for a 12km round trip along bike

paths.
Port Douglas Taxis (%4099 5345; 45 Warner St) offers 24-hour service.
Port Douglas is one of the last places you
can hire a 4WD before Cooktown:
Holiday Car Hire (%4099 4999; 54 Macrossan St;

2222; www.thewhitecockatoo.com; 9 Alchera Dr; s & d cabins $80-120; as) operates as a nudist resort

from 1 October to 1 May, and nude tours of

the Reef and Daintree can also be arranged.
Its spacious self-contained timber cabins can
sleep up to five.
Mossman Gorge B&B (%4098 2497; www.bnb
upper floor of a timber home with a lavish
balcony from which to view the national park.
Mosquito netting is draped over the beds and
the guest lounge is enticing. Rates include
a huge breakfast of muffins, croissants and
fruits.
For frozen yogurt, wraps and toasted sandwiches try Tropical Boost (%4098 1089; 10 Front St;
dishes $7-9; hbreakfast & lunch Mon-Sat). Visit Goodies Cafe (%4098 1118; 33 Front St; mains around $10;
hbreakfast & lunch) for a health-fest of homemade meals from organic produce.

.daintreecabins.com; Dagmar St; s/d incl breakfast $80/100;

as) Set on the fringe of a 160-hectare cat-

Getting There & Around

Coral Reef Coaches (%4098 2800; www.coralreefcoaches
.com.au) stops in Mossman from Cairns ($30,
two hours) and from Port Douglas ($8, 30
minutes).
Sun Palm (%4084 2626; www.sunpalmtransport.com)
runs regular bus services between Mossman
and Cairns ($36, two hours), and Port Douglas ($10, 20 minutes).

Shadowed by Mt Demi, this quiet town is the

eye of the surrounding tourist storm. Daytrippers staying in Cairns and Port Douglas
come to snap a Kodak moment of the gorge,
but you shouldnt miss the stand of 80-yearold rain trees behind the rail tracks. The
Kuku-Yalanji people are the traditional owners of the stunning Mossman Gorge. There are
some crystal-clear swimming holes, which can
be treacherous after heavy rain, and a superb
2.4km walking trail.
Mossman QPWS (%4098 2188; www.epa.qld.gov.au;
Demi View Plaza, 1 Front St; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri), near
the main turn-off to the gorge, has maps and
information.
Excellent walks are led by Aboriginal guides
and run by Kuku-Yalanji Dreamtime Walks (%4098
2595; www.yalanji.com.au; adult/child/family $25/14.50/65;
har 9am, 11am, 1pm & 3pm Mon-Sat). It also offers

two-hour night fish-spearing tours (maximum

three people; $150) at 7.30pm, and informative
beach walks departing at 9.30am and 1.30pm
(adult/child $75/45). Transfers from Port
Douglas are available ($25 per person).
Perhaps more appropriately called the nude
cockatoo, part of the White Cockatoo (%4098

Mangrove Man Tours (%07-4098 2066; www

.mangroveman.com.au; cruises from $45) Mossman
River bird-watching, natural history and ecosystem
information.
Wild Wings & Swampy Things (%07-4098 6155;
[email protected]; tours $30) Recommended.

Sleeping & Eating

St; h8am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-12.30pm Sat & Sun)

Thrifty (%4099 5555; www.thrifty.com; 50 Macrossan
St; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat & Sun)
%07 / pop 1941

FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D A r o u n d C a p e T r i b u l a t i o n 451

nq.com.au/mossgorge; Lot 15, Gorge View Cres; s $80-90, d

$95-115; as) is a stunning B&B set on the

Port Douglas Car Rental (%4099 4988; 81 Davidson

MOSSMAN

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

DAINTREE VILLAGE
Surrounded by pockets of untouched rainforest, Daintree Village is the sedate touristcentric hub of the coastal lowland area between
the Daintree and Bloomfield Rivers and also
known as the Daintree Coast. The small main
street has a sprinkling of shops, places to eat and
tour options to launch visitors into the spectacular Wet Tropics World Heritage Area.
Daintree Village (www.daintreevillage.asn.au) has a
number of small tour operators:
Bruce Belchers Daintree River Cruises (%07-4098
7717; www.daintreerivercruise.com; adult/child $20/10;
h8.15am-4pm) Seven tours daily; 3km north of the
Cape Tribulation ferry turn-off.
Chris Dahlbergs Specialised River Tours (%074098 7997; www.daintreerivertours.com.au; Daintree
Village; 2hr tours adult/child $55/35; htours at 6.30am
Apr-Oct, 6am Nov-Jan) Specialises in bird-watching.
Dan Irbys Mangrove Adventures (%4090 7017;
www.mangroveadventures.com.au; tours from $50) Pick
a sunrise, day or sunset tour. Open-air shallow boat with
swivel seats for optimum bird-watching.

Kenadon Homestead Cabins (%07-4098 6142; www

tle farm, this friendly family-owned property
offers self-contained cabins, which are a good
size for families and groups. Clustered together near the playful pool, the cabins face
out to the vast pastures.
Red Mill House (%07-4098 6233; www.redmillhouse
.com.au; Stewart St; s/d $120/160; ais) With a
range of birds and frogs regularly stopping
by, this excellent B&B plays host to more than
just paying guests. The eclectic rooms are well
appointed (with bathrooms), and theres a
welcoming communal lounge. Families can
be accommodated. Fully cooked breakfasts
(aka cholesterol packs) are included.
Daintree Eco Lodge & Spa (%1800 808 010, 074098 6100; www.daintree-ecolodge.com.au; 20 Daintree Rd;
s/d from $510/550; ais) Plush, comfortable

beds are the centrepiece of these boutique

stilt villas with micro-screened balconies,
corner spas and in-house movies. The bathrooms are a bit of a letdown; nevertheless,
youll be swooning in rainforest remedies at
the crme de la crme spa. Within the complex is Julaymba (mains $28 to $39), which
serves Australasian spa cuisine including
kangaroo and wattleseed risotto, and reef
fish cakes. Transfers from Port Douglas and
Cairns are available.
Daintree Riverview Caravan Park (%07-4098
6119; www.daintreeriverview.com; cnr Dagmar & Stewart St;
unpowered/powered sites $18/24, cabins $77) Caters for

budget travellers and has boat hire (half-/full

day $55/99).
Papaya (%07-4098 6173; Stewart St; mains $17.50-24;
hlunch & dinner Wed-Sun) Snappy bar and bistro
serves a range of standard favourites, such as
fish and chips and beef pies in arty surrounds.
Lock your lips around sugarcane prawns or
some crocodile won tons.
Two casual eateries serving tasty fare are
Ellenors Place (%07-4098 6146; Stewart St; light meals
$5-10, mains $13.50-28.50) and the charming Daintree Tea House Restaurant (%/fax 07-4098 6161;
Daintree Rd; meals from $14; hlunch).

AROUND CAPE TRIBULATION

Some places take your breath away Cape
Tribulation, one of the few places in the world
where the tropical rainforest meets the sea, is
one of them. Coming here across the cable
ferry, youll feel like youre entering the set
of Jurassic Park with impenetrable rainforest,
swollen river banks and layers of mountains.
Theres talk of a bridge but it just wouldnt be
the same. A snakey road slitters through the
greenery past enchanting swimming holes,
beaches made silver with mica, and a maze of
bushwalks. Theres next to no mobile-phone
coverage here and the rainforest-dwelling
population wouldnt want it any other way.
About 11km before Daintree Village and
24km from Mossman is the turn-off to the
Daintree River cable ferry (car/motorcycle/bicycle & pedestrian $16/7/2; h6am-midnight), which runs every
15 minutes and takes two minutes to cross the
river into the Cape Tribulation area. After
crossing the river its another 34km by sealed
road to Cape Tribulation. The indigenous
Kuku-Yalanji people called the area Kulki,
but the name Cape Tribulation was given by
Captain Cook after his ship ran aground on
Endeavour Reef.
Part of the Wet Tropics World Heritage
Area, the region from Daintree River north to
Cape Tribulation is famed for its ancient rainforest and the rugged mountains of Thornton
Peak (1375m) and Mt Sorrow (770m).
Electricity is powered by generators in this
area; few places have air-con and not everywhere has 24-hour power. Cape Trib is one of
the most popular day trips from Port Douglas
and Cairns, and accommodation is booked
solid in peak periods.
You can get fuel and supplies at Rainforest
Village (p452), 16km from the ferry on Cape
Tribulation Rd, or Masons Store (p455), but
self-caterers are better off coming prepared.
Coral Reef Coaches and Sun Palm Express run
daily bus services from Cairns to Cape Tribulation (see p432). For information on organised
trips to the area, see Tours in the Cairns (p427)
and Port Douglas (p447) sections.
A couple of operators offer trips out to the
Great Barrier Reef from Cape Tribulation.
Rumrunner (%1300 556 332; www.rumrunner.com.au;
tours adult/child $120/90) have an excellent day trip
to the Mackay and Undine reefs (maximum
44 people).
The following sections chart a route from
the Daintree River to Cape Tribulation.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

h8am-5pm Mon-Sat, 8am-noon Sun)

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452 FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D A r o u n d C a p e T r i b u l a t i o n

Cape Kimberly
Cape Kimberley Rd, 8km beyond the Daintree
River crossing, leads to Cape Kimberley Beach, a
beautiful quiet beach with Snapper Island just
offshore, and backed with tropical bush that
offers shade. The small island is a national park,
with a fringing reef. Access to the island is by
private boat; Crocodylus Village (below) takes
a sea-kayaking tour there. Youll need to obtain
a permit for the QPWS camping ground (%07-4098
2188; www.epa.qld.gov.au; per person/family $4.50/18) on the
southwest side of Snapper Island, where theres
a toilet and picnic tables. Take a fuel stove, as
fires are not permitted here.
At the beach is Koala Beach Resort (%1800
466 444, 07-4090 7500; www.koala-backpackers.com; Cape
Kimberley; unpowered/powered sites $10/13, dm $18-25, d
$50-125; as), a huge family-friendly camping

ground with secluded sites, small cabins, a bar

and restaurant (meals $6 to $13).
Cow Bay is simply beautiful. Trees provide
beach shade, and you can fish or just lie down
and chill out it doesnt get more relaxing
than this.
Before the turn-off to the Jindalba Boardwalk is the Walu Wugirriga (Alexandra Range)
lookout, which has an information board and
marvellous views over the Alexandra Range.
The Daintree Discovery Centre (%07-4098 9171;
www.daintree-rec.com.au; adult/child/concession/family
$25/10/20/58, audio hire $5; h8.30am-5pm) is a rain-

forest interpretive centre with advanced ecocredentials. Its aerial walkway traverses the
forest floor to a 23m viewing tower. Visitors
are encouraged to use an audio guide, available in six languages. There are some short
walks with interpretive panels and a small
theatre runs films on the hippest of talking
points conservation. Jindalba Boardwalk
weaves through the rainforest behind the centre. You can have your entry ticket validated
for seven days.
SLEEPING & EATING

Crocodylus Village (%07-4098 9166; www.crocodylus

capetrib.com; Buchanan Creek Rd; dm/d $23/75; is)

This YHA hostel has a spread of large, safaristyle tents that merge with the surrounding
trees. Theres a restaurant and bar, as well as a
range of activities, including excellent two-day
sea-kayaking tours to Snapper Island ($200).
oEpiphyte B&B (%07-4098 9039; www.rain
forestbb.com; 22 Silkwood Rd; s/d/tr/cabins $50/75/90/140)

This neo-hippy B&B has individually styled

rooms of varying size, each with slate-floored
bathrooms. The veranda is festooned with
hammocks and theres a bed made for star
gazing. A private new cabin with a sunken
bathroom is ideal for couples.
Prema Shanti (%07-4098 9006; www.premashanti
.com;183 Turpentine Rd; per person tw share $70, cabins $110)

If a spiritual retreat in the heart of the rainforest sounds like a piece of nirvana then this
yoga and meditation retreat comes close. Accommodation is beneath the split-level timber
temple. A daily rate includes daily yoga and
meditation, breakfast and dinner. Meditation
is compulsory and bookings essential.
Daintree Wilderness Lodge (%07-4098 9105; www
.daintreewildernesslodge.com.au; 83 Cape Tribulation Rd, Noah
Creek; r incl breakfast $250; s) Seven timber eco-cabins

are separated by rainforest and connected by

boardwalks on this 12-hecatre property. Each
has a ceiling window to watch the rainforest
canopy. Meals are available ($28 to $38).
Daintree Ice Cream Company (%07-4098 9114; Cape
Tribulation Rd; ice cream $5; h11am-5pm) This might
just be the most scenic ice creamery anywhere:
taste a range of exotic flavours such as macadamia, mango and black sapota, a native fruit
that tastes like chocolate pudding (divine!).
Floravilla (%07-4098 9100; Cape Tribulation Rd; mains
$12.50-28; hbreakfast & lunch) Country-style breakfasts, quick-fried calamari and good vegetarian eats make this series of thatched huts,
dotted around a garden, very popular. Theres
also the tiny Floravilla gallery.
More eating and sleeping options:
Fan Palm Boardwalk Cafe (%07-4098 9119; Cow
Bay; mains $8-16) Open-air licensed caf.
Rainforest Village (%07-4098 9015; www.rainforest
village.com.au; Cape Tribulation Rd; unpowered/powered
sites $20/25) Camp sites on a grassy slope behind the
petrol station and general store (open 7am to 7pm). Clean
utilities block.

Cooper Creek
Cooper Creek Wilderness Cruises (%07-4098 9126;
www.ccwild.com; adult/child $35/25) offers day (at 9am
and 2pm) and night (at 8pm) guided interpretive rainforest walks.
In a relaxed rainforest setting, Daintree
Deep Forest Lodge (%07-4098 9162; www.daintreedeep
forestlodge.com.au; Cape Tribulation Rd; r $130-150) has a
homestead with self-contained studio units
and a one-bedroom unit that sleeps up to
five. Each has a veranda with a barbecue for
alfresco cooking.

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FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D A r o u n d C a p e T r i b u l a t i o n 453

WORLD HERITAGE LISTING WHAT DOES IT GUARANTEE?

Far North Queenslands Wet Tropics area has amazing pockets of biodiversity. The Wet Tropics
World Heritage Area stretches from Townsville to Cooktown and covers 894,420 hectares of
coastal zones and hinterland, diverse swamp and mangrove-forest habitats, eucalypt woodlands
and tropical rainforest. It covers only 0.01% of Australias surface area, but has:
36% of all the mammal species
50% of the bird species
around 60% of the butterfly species
65% of the fern species.
Yep wow!

Daintree National Park: Then & Now

The greater Daintree rainforest is protected as part of Daintree National Park. The Daintree area has
a controversial history. In 1983 the Bloomfield Track was bulldozed through sensitive lowland rainforest from Cape Tribulation to the Bloomfield River, attracting international attention to the fight
to save the lowland rainforests. The conservationists lost that battle, but the publicity generated by
the blockade indirectly led to the federal governments moves in 1987 to nominate Queenslands
wet tropical rainforests for World Heritage listing. Despite strenuous resistance by the Queensland
timber industry and state government, the area was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1988
and one of the key outcomes was a total ban on commercial logging in the area.
That may not be enough, however. The Cow Bay area that many travellers visit, an area of
unique and threatened plant species, is a 1000-block real estate subdivision on freehold private
land look around and youll see for sale signs aplenty. World Heritage listing, unfortunately,
doesnt affect land ownership rights or control.
In 1994, the Daintree Rescue Program, a state and federal government buy-back scheme, attempted to consolidate and increase public land ownership in the area, lowering the threat of land
clearing and associated species extinction. They spent $23 million re-purchasing large properties,
adding them to the Daintree National Park and installing visitor interpretation facilities such as
Maardja and Dubuji boardwalks. Sealing the road to Cape Tribulation opened the area to rapid
settlement activating attempts to buy back freehold blocks to reduce settlement pressures. Twelve
years on, the Queensland government had purchased over 400 freehold properties, the federal
government had purchased 18 properties and local conservationists had acquired five. Coupled
with stringent development controls, it looks as though the adage of Paradise Lost is being reversed
by local and state efforts, and the Daintree just could be paradise regained. Still, with increased
population comes invasive species such as the Singapore daisy, coconut trees and heliconias,
which, if not controlled, could infringe on the near-pristine forests.
Check out www.austrop.org.au for more information.

What can I do?

When visiting this impossibly beautiful part of the world, leave only footsteps behind. Thats as
easy as taking your rubbish with you, sticking to the designated trails and driving slowly to
avoid hitting wildlife. When travelling, consider the following questions to try to minimise your
environmental footprint:
Does the tour Im going on have eco-certification (www.ecotourism.org.au)?
Are tour participants encouraged to take their rubbish with them when visiting World Heritage
sites?
Am I using natural, chemical-free toiletries while travelling?
Are there any volunteer opportunities for me to assist with cleaning up beaches or wildlife
monitoring etc?
Is there a not-for-profit environment group I can donate to (eg Austrop, the Wilderness
Society or the Australian Conservation Foundation)?
Is my accommodation choice encouraging guests to recycle rubbish and reduce water
consumption?

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

Cow Bay

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

454 FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D C a p e T r i b u l a t i o n

Noah Beach

Bloomfield
Track

ek

Cre

gen

Em

Cape
Tribulation

Camelot Cl
24
19 28

Nicole Dr

Mt Sorrow
(770m)

17
27

Myall
Beach

Creek

Myall

10

Mt Hemmant
(1092m)

Noa

Cre

ek

16

Noah Beach

Table
Mountain
(450m)

foresthideaway.com; 19 Camelot Close; r incl breakfast $85-120)

Extremely private and suitable for everyone,

this is a likeable place with driftwood mobiles,
eclectic wooden furniture and irreverent hotel
signs. If you arrive unannounced, check the
blackboard for vacancies and head to the beach,
where youll probably find the manager.
Cape Trib Farmstay (%07-4098 0042; www.capetrib

er

CORAL

and smart bed linen are set amid the rambutan

and mangosteen plantations forging privacy
with joyous views. Double accommodation
is also available in the farmhouse with visits
from the cuddly blue heeler, Buttons. Not

SEA

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Bat House...............................................................1 B2
Cooper Creek Wilderness Cruises...........................2 B4
Daintree Discovery Centre......................................3 B5
Jindalba Boardwalk...............................................(see 3)
Marrdja Botanical Walk...........................................4 B3
Ranger Station........................................................5 B2
Walu Wugirriga (Alexandra Range) Lookout..........6 B5

ee

Cr

Thornton Peak
(1375m)
Tur
pen
tine
Rd
18

21 22

12

Thornton Beach

20

Alexandra
Bay

Mt
Hutchinson
(190m)

pe

Ca

13

Hutc 23
hin
so

Bailey Hill
(282m)

Creek

Buchana
n 11
26
Cre
ek

Rd

Fo

re
st
Rd Cre

Cow
Bay

25

14

Mt Alexandra
(483m)

ek

29

Cape K
im

Cape Tribulation
Rd

PKs Jungle Village (%1800 232 333, 07-4098 0040;

www.pksjunglevillage.com; unpowered sites per person

$10, dm/s $22/44, d $66-110; ais) PKs has

b erle

Cape
Kimberley

yR
d

Daintree National Park

(Cape Tribulation Section)

Daintree

River

Snapper Island
National Park

os

15

Cape
Kimberley
Beach

sm

an

int

Da

Trinity
Bay

ree

Rd

To
Daintree
Village
(11km)

To Mossman
(20km)

Crocodiles inhabit
rivers and lakes in
tropical areas;
swimming is not
recommended.

SLEEPING
Cape Trib Beach House...........................................7
Cape Trib Farmstay.................................................8
Cape Tribulation Camping......................................9
Coconut Beach Rainforest Resort..........................10
Crocodylus Village................................................11
Daintree Deep Forest Lodge................................. 12
Daintree Wilderness Lodge................................... 13
Epiphyte B&B........................................................14
Koala Beach Resort...............................................15
Noah Beach Camping Area...................................16
PKs Jungle Village................................................17
Prema Shanti........................................................ 18
Rainforest Hideaway.............................................19
Rainforest Village................................................. 20
Thornton Beach Bungalows..................................21

B1
B2
B2
B2
B5
A4
A4
B5
B5
B3
B2
A4
B2
A4
B3

EATING
Caf on Sea..........................................................22
Daintree Ice Cream Company............................... 23
Dragonfly Gallery Cafe..........................................24
Fan Palm Boardwalk Caf.....................................25
Floravilla............................................................... 26
IGA Express...........................................................27
Masons Store.......................................................28

B3
A4
B2
B5
A5
B2
B2

TRANSPORT
Daintree River Cable Ferry.................................... 29 A5

surprisingly, an exotic fruits basket awaits

for breakfast. Seasonal fruit-pickers (with
work permits; call ahead for opportunities)
are welcome from January to May.
Cape Tribulation Camping (%07-4098 0077; www
.capetribcamping.com.au; unpowered sites $22-24, powered
sites $28-30, s/d $35/55) With its beach frontage,

this well-maintained park pays homage to

the sea and the forest. Half-day sea kayaking
tours are available from $40; sea kayaking hire
is from $15 per hour.
Dragonfly Gallery Cafe (%07-4098 0121; Lot 9,
Camelot Close; mains $15-28.50; hlunch & dinner; i)

This licensed caf is in a timber pole-house

with beautiful garden views. Internet access is available upstairs in the loft; you can
peruse local art or grab a beer in a stubby
holder.
Self-caterers can stock up at IGA Express
(h7am-8pm), which has an ATM plus a pharmacy next door, and Masons Store (%07-4098 0070;
Cape Tribulation Rd; h8am-6pm) is a one-stop supply
shop that sells takeaway food and runs tours.

Getting There & Away

Sun Palm (%4084 2626; www.sunpalmtransport.com)
runs buses from Cairns to Cooktown, via
Cape Tribulation, Tuesday to Sunday. Services depart Cairns at 2.30pm Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, and at 1.15pm Wednesday,
Friday and Sunday.
In addition to offering services to Cooktown, the Sunbus service to Cape Tribulation
operates two to three times daily (depending on passenger numbers; $65 per person)
and this service goes via Palm Cove and Port
Douglas from Cairns.

CAPE TRIBULATION TO COOKTOWN

North of Cape Tribulation, the spectacular
Bloomfield Track is 4WD only, and continues
through the forest to the Wujal Wujal Aboriginal community on the far side of the Bloomfield River crossing. Some steep sections of
the Bloomfield Track may be impassable after
heavy rain; check road conditions at Masons
Store (above) before heading off.
A must-see along the way is Bloomfield Falls
(after crossing the Bloomfield River turn
left; the car park is 1km from here). North
from Wujal Wujal the track heads for 46km
through the tiny settlements of Ayton (Bloomfield), Rossville and Helenvale to meet the sealed
Cooktown Developmental Rd, 28km south
of Cooktown.

QUEENSLAND

Cape Trib Beach House (%1800 111 124, 07-4098

0030; www.capetribbeach.com.au; dm $25, r $79-189, apt
$249; ais) Choose from earthy dorms

farmstay.com; Cape Tribulation Rd; d with/without breakfast

$88/110; a) Five timber cabins with verandas

Daintree National Park

(Cape Tribulation Section)

(%07-4098 0090; www.jungleadventurescapetrib.com

.au; adult $75).

an infamous party reputation and because

its Jungle Bar literally goes bananas, its either your gig or not. Dorms have eight beds
with spongy mattresses, and air-conditioned
rooms with bathrooms are available. Theres
also a restaurant (mains $15 to $20) and a
communal kitchen. Salsa classes, volleyball
and a tour desk make sure that everyone is
occupied.

ma

Mt Pieter Botte
(928m)

0063; www.austrop.org.au; Cape Tribulation Rd; admission

$2; h10.30am-3.30pm Tue-Sun), a nursery for fruit

Sleeping & Eating

op

QUEENSLAND

Mt Halcyon
(874m)

Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.comFA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D C a p e T r i b u l a t i o n t o C o o k t o w n 455

with slat windows or pleasant A-frames. The

complex includes a small communal kitchen,
and restaurant-bar (mains $15 to $20) with
winged canvas roofing. The whole lot is right
on the beach. Ideal for travellers who want to
restore their zen.
Rainforest Hideaway (%07-4098 0108; www.rain

To Bloomfield Falls (22km);

Wujal Wujal Aboriginal
Community (22km);
Cooktown (106km) (4WD only)

Volunteers from Austrop, a local conservation organisation, run the Bat House (%07-4098
bats; theres always one looking to make a
new friend.
Jungle Adventures (%07-4098 0090; www.jungle
surfingcanopytours.com; tours $25-28) runs excellent
and informative night and day walks.
Cape Tribulation Horse Rides (%1800 111 124, 074098 0030; tours $94; h8am & 1.30pm) offer leisurely
horseback strolls through rainforest and paddock trails. Or trade a saddle for a flyingfox harness with Jungle Surfing Canopy Tours

4 km
2 miles

Co

CAPE TRIBULATION

0
0

Oliver
Creek

Marrdja Botanical Walk is a stunning interpretive

boardwalk that follows the creek through the
rainforest and mangroves to a lookout over
Noah Creek.
Noah Beach Camping Area (%07-4098 0052; www
.epa.qld.gov.au; per person/family $4.50/18) is a QPWS
self-registration camping ground set 100m
back from the beach. Big red-trunk trees
provide shade for 16 sites.

CAPE TRIBULATION AREA

l ation Rd

Just a short stroll from Thornton Beach, the

open-air and licensed Caf on Sea (%07-4098
9718; Thornton Beach; meals $10-20) is very Caf del
Mar and serves delicious fish burgers, chargrilled prawn salads, milkshakes and cute
mini bottles of sparkling white to celebrate
your prime beach possie. Across the road,
Thornton Beach Bungalows (%4098 9252; www
.thorntonbeach.com; Cape Tribulation Rd; d $95) are small
and tidy but no doubt youll be spending
most of your time on the balcony.

Tribu

Thornton Beach

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

Information
ANZ bank (%4069 6522; 115 Charlotte St)
Cooktown Library (%4069 5009; Helen St; i)
Internet access.

Cooktown QPWS (%4069 5777; Webber Esplanade;

h8am-3pm Mon-Fri) Closes for lunch.

towns intriguing past. From a traditional

outrigger canoe to the Endeavours massive
anchor, theres a host of interesting displays.
Grassy Hill lookout (162m) has spectacular
360-degree views, and its 1.5km walking trail
(45 minutes) leads from the summit down to
the beach at Cherry Tree Bay.
Charlotte St and Bicentennial Park have a
number of interesting monuments, including the much-photographed bronze Captain
Cook statue.

Tours
Limited tours operate from November until
at least April.
Ahoy Plane Sailing Seaplanes (%4069 5232; www
.marineair.com.au; flights $140-350) Scenic reef flights and
a Lizard Island tour (adult $350).
Barts Bush Adventures (%4069 6229; www
.bartsbushadventures.com.au; tours adult/child $165/85;
camping safaris per day from $250) A range of Cape York
tours, including some to Coloured Sands, Elim Beach,
Lakeland, Laura and the Bloomfield track. Accredited
Savannah guides.

er

10

To Hope
Islands
(37km)

2
16 Green
St
1

13

Botanical
Gardens

22
21

F u rn

eaux St

Walk
er

3
18

St
John

Garden

St

12
Howa
rd St

St

Mt Cook
National Park

Alligator Creek

Hospital

Ma y

St

St

St

Hogg

Rd

Ida S
t
To Airfield (10km); Hopevale
Aboriginal Community (40km);
New Laura Ranger
Station (122km);
Lakefield National
Park (122km)

Finch
Bay

St

19

11
Bound
ary St
lvor

Cherry
Tree
Bay

17

Cooktown
Cemetery

Mc

Grassy
Hill (162m)

St

Hi l l

Hope

e av

o ur

Riv

15

Charl

es St
Melal

euc

nt
me
el o p
Dev
n
ow To Milkwood Lodge (2.5km); Trevathan Falls (20km);
Black Mountain National Park (28km); Bloomfield River (74km);
Lakeland (82km); Laura (148km); Cairns (via Coast Rd) (243km);
Mareeba (265km); Cairns (via Cooktown Developmental Rd) (335km)

Catch-a-Crab (%4069 6289; [email protected]

.au; per person from $75) Nickos four-hour crab-catching
tours of the Endeavour and Annan Rivers are great for kids
(who get a discounted price).
Cooktown Cruises (%4069 5712; cooktowncruises@
msn.com.au; adult/child $30/18) Two-hour scenic Endeavour River cruises and boat hire (from $25 per hour).
Cooktown Tours (%4069 5406; www.cooktowntours
.com; h9am) Offers 1-hour town tours (adult/child
$25/15) and half-day trips to Black Mountain ($55/25).
Gone Fishing (%4069 5980; www.fishingcooktown
.com; 4hr tours from $100) River fishing tours.
Guurrbi Tours (%4069 6259; www.guurrbitours.com;
2hr/4hr tours $90/115, self-drives $60/80; hMon-Sat)
Memorable tours to Hopevale, outside Cooktown, by
Nugal-warra elder, Wilfred (Willie) Gordon, including a
number of rock-art sites and an emphasis on indigenous

aS

(%4069 5386; [email protected]; cnr Helen & Furneaux

Sts; adult/child $7.50/2; h9.30am-4pm) explores Cook-

SLEEPING
Cooktown Caravan Park......9 B4
k
ree
Endeavour Views................10
n C B2
Pam's Place........................
ma11 B3
a
in 12 C3
Peninsula Caravan Park......
Ch
Seagren's Inn.....................13 B2
Seaview Motel....................14 B1
Shadows of Mt Cook
B&B................................15 B4
Sovereign Resort................16 B2

Bicentennial
Park

Helen

is an environment interpretive centre in the

Botanic Gardens, with two excellent galleries, a
great book shop and a caf (p458).
The Charlie Tanner Gallery (Charlie was Cooktowns snake man) has fantastic displays
about snakes, termite mounds, crocodiles,
only on the Cape wildlife (the bare-backed
fruit bat will give you nightmares) and incredible stories from taipan snakebite survivors.
The Vera Scarth-Johnson Gallery displays a collection of intricate, beautiful botanical illustrations of the regions native plants. There are
walking trails that lead from the gardens to the
beaches at Cherry Tree and Finch Bays.
Housed in the imposing 1880s St Marys
Convent, the James Cook Historical Museum

Grassy
Hill
Lighthouse

20

14

St

powerhouse.info; Walker St; adult/child $3/free; h9am-5pm)

r
be
eb sp
E

500 m
0.3 miles

CORAL
SEA

lotte

The springboard to the untamed Cape York

Peninsula, Queenslands sleepiest port town
sits at the mouth of the croc-infested Endeavour River. The townsfolk who plough
Cooktowns main thoroughfare, Charlotte
St, in dusty 4WDs with easy does it bumper
stickers but are not afraid of hard work,
and equally not shy of a smoko say from
October to June.
Things boomed quickly back in the late
1880s transforming the hamlet into a thriving
hub of 4000 (twice the current population).
Cooktown is now enjoying something of a
resurgence courtesy of the Cooktown Development Rd getting sealed in March 2006,
making it accessible in the Wet good news
for game fishers from San Francisco to Tokyo
who rent millionaires fleet boats in the hope
of snaring a legendary black marlin offshore.
Apart from top-notch fishing and reef access,
this small town with a big heart offers personalised tours, wetlands ripe for bird-watching
and long, lonely beaches.
Cooktown can claim to be Queenslands
first nonindigenous settlement, however transient. From June to August 1770, Captain
Cook beached his barque Endeavour here,
during which time the expeditions chief
naturalist, Joseph Banks, collected 186 species
of Australian plants from the banks of the
Endeavour River and wrote the first European
description of a kangaroo.
Race relations in the area turned sour a
century later when Cooktown was founded as
the unruly port for the Palmer River gold rush
(187383), where fortunes were made and
drunk swiftly. Battle Camp, about 60km
inland from Cooktown, was the site of a major
battle between Europeans and Aborigines.

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Captain Cook Statue............5 B1
Charlie Tanner Gallery.........6 C2
Grassy Hill Lookout..............7 C1
James Cook Historical
Museum..........................8 B2
Nature's Powerhouse.........(see 6)
Vera Scarth-Johnson
Gallery...........................(see 6)

Fishermans
Wharf

Adelai
de
St

Cooktown hibernates during winter (locals

call it the dead season), and many attractions
and tours close or have reduced hours.
Natures Powerhouse (%4069 6004; www.natures

To Lizard Island
Group (100km)

INFORMATION
ANZ Bank............................1 B2
Cooktown Booking Centre...2 B2
Cooktown Library................3 B2
Cooktown QPWS.................4 B1
Nature's Powerhouse.........(see 6)

Char

Sights

%07 / pop 2000

0
0

COOKTOWN

Rd

COOKTOWN

FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D C o o k t o w n 457

En
d

graffiti-covered corrugated-iron walls and a

slab-timber bar. You can pitch a tent or sleep in
a safari-style cabin ($66). Fuel is available.

Cooktown Booking Centre (%4069 5381; www

.cooktownbookings.com.au; 132 Charlotte St; h9am5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Tours, accommodation and
transport bookings.
Natures Powerhouse (%4069 6004; www.natures
powerhouse.info; Walker St; h9am-5pm) Info centre.

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

EATING
Bowls Club.......................17 B2
Chop Suey Louies..........(see 13)
Cooktown Bakery............18 B3
Cornett's IGA
Supermarket................19 B3
Gill'd & Gutt'd..................20 B1
Nature's Powerhouse.......(see 6)
Restaurant 1770............(see 20)
Shadows of Mt Cook.....(see 15)
DRINKING
Cooktown Hotel..............21 B2
TRANSPORT
A1 Car Rentals.................22 B2

philosophy, stories and dreaming. These tours win high

praise from travellers who frequently describe them as the
best thing (Ive) done in Australia, remarkable and inspirational. The consensus: dont leave Cooktown without
doing Willies tour! Book at Pams Place (below).
Maaramaka Tours (%4069 5381; 2hr tours adult/
child $40/30, walking tours $80/45) Feast your mind and
your palate on bush tucker at a property outside Hopevale.
Book at the Cooktown Booking Centre; self-drive.

Sleeping
Pams Place (%4069 5166; www.cooktownhostel.com; cnr
Charlotte & Boundary Sts; dm/s $27/50, d $55-95; as)

A popular base for seasonal workers and

travellers, this comfortable YHA-affiliated
hostel has a leafy garden with barbecue and
an assortment of neurotic parrots. There are

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

The Lions Den Hotel (%07-4060 3911; www.lionsden

hotel.com.au; Helensvale; unpowered sites $16, dm/d $25/50;
s) is a well-known watering hole that has

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ok
t

456 FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D C o o k t o w n

458 FA R N O R T H Q U E E N S L A N D C o o k t o w n

also four new self-contained units ($100 for

two people). All facilities are very good, and
management can provide loads of useful information about the area.
Seagrens Inn (%4069 5357; seagrens-inn@bigpond
.com; Charlotte St; s/d $75/85; as) Above Chop
Suey Louies restaurant, the rooms here have
outdated appeal with 80s pictures, lots of
wood and high puffy beds. There are river
views from the balcony.
Endeavour Views (%4069 5381; www.cooktown
Although they could be mistaken for garden
sheds from the road, these five corrugated
cabins, linked by a modest boardwalk, are a
comfy choice. Each has a fridge and a balcony
made private with a canvas cover. Families
will like the self-contained unit ($130 to
$150).
Milkwood Lodge (%4069 5007; www.milkwoodlodge
.com; Annan Rd; s/d $100/120; as) About 2.5km
south of the centre of town, these six breezy
self-contained timber-pole cabins, run by a
Dutch owner-operator, have bushland spilling
between them, and tranquil views. Cabins are
spacious and split-level.
Shadows of Mt Cook B&B (%4069 5584; cnr Hope &
Burkitt Sts; r incl breakfast $110; a) Nonchalant hosts
have two fresh rooms with Aboriginal prints
and top-notch bathrooms; they are close to
the adjoining restaurant (right) so some noise
may carry.
Sovereign Resort (%4069 5400; www.sovereign
-resort.com.au; cnr Charlotte & Green Sts; d $165; as) A
well-equipped swish resort you could sleep,
eat and drink here without experiencing a
smidge of Cooktown. Room prices start with
standard studio-style rooms and increase to
two-bedroom apartments.
Seaview Motel (%4069 5377; seaviewmotel@bigpond
.com; 178 Charlotte St; s/d from $80/90; as) Low-rise
motel popular with fisher folk who plot their
next days fishing while taking dress-circle
seats for one of Far North Queenslands best
sunsets. A self-contained townhouse is available for $170.
Also recommended:
Cooktown Caravan Park (%4069 5536; www.cook
towncaravanpark.com; 14-16 Hope St; unpowered/
powered sites $20/25, on-site vans $45) A small and
friendly park set on a gorgeous bush block with woodburning barbecues.
Peninsula Caravan Park (%4069 5107; fax 4069
5255; 64 Howard St; unpowered/powered sites $20/24,
cabins $70-90) Lovely setting.

Eating & Drinking

oNatures Powerhouse (%4069 6004; Walker
St; meals $12-15; hlunch) This undercover caf

serves up wholesome food for lunch, and

snacks thereabouts. The menu changes daily
but stomach-padders such as pumpkin tarts,
Caesar salads and homemade cakes and
liquorice basil soda ensure this is a local
favourite.
Chop Suey Louies (%4069 5357; Charlotte St; mains
$15-27; hlunch & dinner Apr-Sep) With Cooktowns
Chinese heritage, its only fitting that their
should be a Chinese restaurant in town. Chow
down on chow mein noodles, sweet-and-sour
combinations plus mud-crab soups.
Bowls Club (%4069 6173; Charlotte St; mains $17-21;
hlunch & dinner) Sign yourself in at the door,
and join the club for the night. Apart from the
enormous surf-and-turf tucker, youre able to
visit the salad bar as often as you like and natter with the Cooktown regulars. On weekends
you might just win the meat-tray raffle.
Gilld & Guttd (%4069 5863; Fishermans Wharf, Webber Esplanade; meals $8-17; hlunch, dinner to 7.30pm)

This mighty takeaway dishes up fish and chips

in old-school paper parcels. The fare is spectacular: barramundi or Spanish mackerel, crab
sticks or coral trout.
Shadows of Mt Cook (%4069 5584; cnr Hope & Burkitt
Sts; mains $22-25; hdinner Tue-Sat) A bit of Bali in
a frontier town may seem a tad unlikely but
this restaurant draws praise for its pan-fried
chicken breast with mango and chilli sauce,
crumbed camembert and roast duck. Book
ahead.
Restaurant 1770 (%4069 5440; 7 Webber Esplanade;
mains $22-29; hlunch & dinner) The views alone
make this Cooktowns answer to fine dining,
specialising in seafood.
Cooktown Hotel (%4069 5308; Charlotte St; mains
$8.50-20; hlunch & dinner) Known as the Top Pub,
this large hotel has character on tap and makes
a pleasant place to prop for a while. There are
pool tables, a beer garden and basic counter
meals are also available. Bands play on Friday
nights.
Grab supplies from Cornetts IGA supermarket
(%4069 5633; cnr Helen & Hogg Sts; h8.30am-6pm MonSat, 8.30am-7pm Thu, 8.30am-5pm Sun) and Cooktown
Bakery (%4069 5612; cnr Hogg & Charlotte Sts; h7am4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat & Sun).

Getting There & Around

Cooktowns airfield is 10km west of town
along McIvor Rd. Skytrans (%1800 818 405, 4046

lonelyplanet.com

2462; www.skytrans.com.au) flies up to three times

a day between Cooktown and Cairns (adult/
child $110/55, 45 minutes).
Country Road Coach Lines (%4045 2794; www.country
roadcoachlines.com.au; adult/child $72/36) runs a Cooktown to Cairns inland service on Wednesday,
Friday and Sunday (departing at 2.30pm and
arriving in Cairns at 7.15pm). A coastal service operates on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday (departing Cooktown at 7am, arriving
at 2pm). Courtesy pick-ups are available and
drop-offs to Cairns airport can be arranged.
A1 Car Rentals (%1300 301 175, 4069 5500; www
.a1carrentalscairns.com.au; 112 Charlotte St) Small, medium and large cars for hire plus 4WDs, which
are ideal for Cooktowns surrounds. Bookings
can be made seven days a week, 24 hours.
For a taxi call %4069 5387.

LIZARD ISLAND
%07 / pop 280

Lizard Island, the furthest north of the Great

Barrier Reef resort islands, is about 100km
from Cooktown. The continental island has
dry, rocky and mountainous terrain, and 20odd superb beaches, which are nothing short
of sensational, attracting A-listers wanting to
escape the paparazzis glare, nature enthusiasts and serious divers alike.
Jigurru (Lizard Island) has long been a sacred place for the Dingaal Aboriginal people.
There are also good bushwalks to Cooks Look
(368m). Its beaches range from long stretches
of white sand to idyllic little rocky bays. The
water is crystal clear and magnificent coral
surrounds the island snorkelling here is
sensational. There are good dives right off
the island, and the outer reef is less than 20km
away, including what is probably Australias
best-known dive, the Cod Hole.
Diving tours here can be arranged through
Diving Cairns (%07-4041 7536; www.divingcairns.com
.au) and Lizard Island Resort (right). The rates
are determined by the number of passengers
and days required.
Accommodation options are extreme on
Lizard Island its either camping or fivestar luxury.
The camping ground (per person/family $4.50/18) is
at the northern end of Watsons Bay and caters
for up to 20 campers; contact QPWS (%13 13 04,
07-4069 5777; www.epa.qld.gov.au) in Cooktown or
go online to obtain a permit. Campers must
be totally self-sufficient, but there are toilets,
tables and gas barbecues. Untreated water is

C A P E Y O R K P E N I N S U L A 459

available from a pump 250m from the site; boil

the water for five minutes before drinking.
Expect isolation, spa treatments, an enviable location and no children at Lizard Island
Resort (%1800 737 678, 4060 3999; www.lizardisland.com
.au; Anchor Bay; d from $792; as). Rates include
all meals.
Hinterland flies to Lizard Island from Cairns
(one way from $129, one hour) up to twice a
day, and Ahoy Plane Sailing Seaplanes (p456) has
day tours (from $140) from Cooktown.

CAIRNS TO COOKTOWN THE INLAND

ROAD
Its 332km (about 4 hours drive) from Cairns
to Cooktown via this stoic and arid route.
You can either access the Mulligan Hwy from
Mareeba, or via the turn-off just before Mossman. The road travels past rugged ironbarks
and cattle-trodden land before joining the
Cooktown Developmental Rd at Lakeland.
From here its another 80km to Cooktown.
The historical town of Mt Molloy marks
the start of the Mulligan Hwy. The National
Hotel (%07-4094 1133; Main St; s/d $30/60, mains $12-19;
hlunch & dinner) is a welcoming local where you
can wear your work boots to lunch.
The Palmer River gold rush (187383) occurred about 70km to the west, throwing up
boom towns Palmerville and Maytown; little
of either remain today. You can buy horrendously expensive fuel and snacks at the Palmer
River roadhouse (%07-4060 2020; h7.30am-9pm).
South of Cooktown the road travels through
the sinister-looking rock piles of Black Mountain
National Park a range of hills formed 260
million years ago and made up of thousands
of granite boulders. Local Aboriginal people
call it Kalcajagga, or place of the spears, and
its home to unique species of frog, skink and
gecko.

CAPE YORK PENINSULA

The overland pilgrimage to Cape York Peninsula the tip of Australia is simply one
of the greatest 4WD routes on the continent.
This is one of the most untamed, primeval
and lonesome areas of Australia, where clouds
of red dust signal approaching vehicles and
youll drive many kilometres on corrugated
roads to reach the next town, usually an isolated roadhouse. While reaching the tip is an
exhilarating effort, many of the highlights of

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

bookings.com.au; cnr Charlotte & Hill Sts; cabins $88-98)

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460 C A P E Y O R K P E N I N S U L A

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0
0

CAPE YORK PENINSULA

100 km
60 miles

Torres Strait

Gulf of
Carpentaria

Thursday
Punsand Bay Safari &
Horn Is
Island
Fishing Lodge
Cape
Prince of
York
"Tip of Australia"
Wales Island
Somerset
Loyalty Beach
Seisia Bamaga
Injinoo Aboriginal
Community
Jackey Jackey
Airfield
Jardine River
Ussher Pt
Ferry & Roadhouse
Jardine
Jardine River
River
National Park
Northern
Twin Falls
Bypass Rd
Fruit Bat Falls
ABORIGINAL
LAND

at
Gre

hunty
ul

Unsealed roads can vary

from excellent to impassable,
depending on many factors.

Captain Billy
Landing

River

Shelburne Bay

Telegrap

Mapoon
Aboriginal
Community

Crocodiles inhabit rivers and

lakes in tropical areas;
swimming is not recommended.

Southern
Bypass Rd

Cape Grenville

h Rd

Bar

rier

Temple Bay
Moreton
Telegraph Station
Iron Range
National Park
Portland Roads
Batavia
Downs

ck
enlo
W

Duyfken Pt

Weipa

r
Rive

Albatross
Bay

Weymouth Bay

Lockhart River
Aboriginal Community

Pera
Head

Ar
ch
er
Ferry to
Karumba

Coen

Mungkan Kandju
National Park
(Rockeby)

Kendall

Port Stewart

Lotus Bird
Lodge

man

Cape Melville
National Park

Lizard Island
National Park
Diving

River
M

Riv

an

r
ve
Ri
De
ve
lo

al

Rd

Dev

Staaten River
National Park

pm
en
t

Mulligan Hw
y

rk Rive
e
r

tal
men

Lakefield
National Park
R iv
Battle
er
Camp

Mt Carbine

81

Mt Molloy

lsh

ke

Wa

To Normanton
(75km)

Starcke
National Park

Hopevale Aboriginal
Community
Endeavour
River National Park
Cooktown
Laura
Quinkan
Mt Cook
Reserve
Split Rock (Guguylangi)
National Park
Galleries
Black Mountain NP
Helenvale
Pa
Quinkan
Cedar Bay
lm
Reserve
er River
Wujal Wujal
National Park
Lakeland
Aboriginal
Ayton (Bloomfield)
Community
Palmer River
Roadhouse
Daintree
Cape Tribulation
National
Thornton
Park
Beach
Daintree
Village

ell
tch

Mi
Bu

elop

Mary Valley
Station

ead

Hann River
Roadhouse

Mitchell And
Alice Rivers
National Park
Al
ice

Rd

h
ore

er

Cole

Kowanyama

Normanby

wy

nH

Musgrave

River

Flinders Group
National Park

Flinders
Island
Princess
Charlotte
Bay

lliga

River

CAPE YORK PENINSULA

Pormpuraaw
Aboriginal
Community

t Rv
war
Ste

Mu

ve
Ri

Holroyd

ABORIGINAL
LAND

Bu
r

QUEENSLAND

ABORIGINAL
LAND

Information & Permits

SEA
Cape Sidmouth

Archer River
Roadhouse
Rockeby
Ranger Station

Rive
r
Mungana

this journey are found in the changing landscapes of the seasons and the detours, planned
and unexpected. Along the way youll encounter big crocs, vehicle- and character-testing
roads, tropical rainforests and wetlands to
rival Kakadu with their rich bird life.
If youre driving to the top, youll need
preparation and a 4WD. The ideal set-up is to
go in companion vehicles: two 4WDs travelling together so one can haul the other out of
trouble if necessary. The HEMA maps Cape
York and Lakefield National Park, and the
RACQ (www.racq.com.au) maps Cairns/Townsville
and Cape York Peninsula are the best. Of the
numerous books about the peninsula, Ron
and Viv Moons Cape York an Adventurers
Guide is the most comprehensive. Linda
Rowes Paradise Found: A Cape York Adventure is an entertaining yarn. Lonely Planets
Queensland & the Great Barrier Reef guide is
also good. Dont expect mobile-phone coverage while travelling in the capes unspoilt
frontiers.

CORAL

Archer River Rd

ver
Ri

C A P E Y O R K P E N I N S U L A I n f o r m a t i o n & Pe r m i t s 461

To Chillagoe
(16km)

Mareeba
Wetlands

Mossman
Port Douglas
Captain
44
Cook Hwy
Palm Cove
1

Mareeba

Cairns

The RACQ and QPWS offices in Cairns

(p424) and Cooktown (p456) have a wealth
of information and are recommended starting points for planning your itinerary and to
obtain permits. Once north of the Dulhunty
River you will need a permit to camp on Aboriginal land, which in effect is nearly all the
land north of the river. The Injinoo people
are the traditional custodians of much of this
land. The Injinoo Community, which runs
the ferry across the Jardine River, includes a
camping permit in the ferry fee.
Travelling across indigenous Australian
land elsewhere on the cape may require an
additional permit from the relevant community council. The Balkanu Cape York Development
Corporation (www.balkanu.com.au) website lists contact details for all the Cape York Aboriginal
communities.

Tours
There are countless tour operators that run
trips to the Cape. Tours last from six to 14
days and take five to 12 passengers. Cairns
is the main starting point for tours, which
generally run between April and December,
but dates may be affected by an early or late
wet season. Cooktown also offers tours to
the Cape. Most tours visit Laura, the Split
Rock galleries, Lakefield National Park, Coen,

Weipa, the Elliot River System (including

Twin Falls), Bamaga, Somerset and Cape
York itself; Thursday Island is usually an optional extra. Each tour has its own speciality
(check with operators), but many offer different combinations of land, air and sea travel,
and camping or motel-style accommodation.
Prices include meals, twin share accommodation (often with a singles supplement for
those requiring solo accommodation) and
fares from Cairns.
Barts Bush Adventures (%07-4069 6229; www
.bartsbushadventures.com.au; camping safaris per day
from $250) A range of Cape York tours from Cooktown.
Billy Tea Bush Safaris (%07-4032 0077; www
.billytea.com.au; 9-day fly-drive tours $2550, 13-day
cruise-drive $2700, 14-day overland tours $2650) A good
range of eco-certified tours.
Daintree Air Services (%1800 246 206, 07-4034
9300; www.daintreeair.com.au; day tours $990) Flight
tours depart Cairns Airport at 7.30am on Wednesday.
Exploring Oz Safaris (%1300 888 112, 07-4057 7905;
www.exploring-oz.com.au; 6-day overland tours $8501000) Takes in Musgrave Station, Coen, Wenlock River,
Loyalty Beach, the Tip and Twin Falls. Additional fuel levy
applies.
Heritage 4WD Tours (%1800 775 533, 07-4054 7750;
www.heritagetours.com.au; 6-day fly-drive tours $1095, 714 day cruise-drive-fly tours from $2395) Numerous tours
and accommodation options including swag stays.
Oz Tours Safaris (%1800 079 006, 07-4055 9535;
www.oztours.com.au; 7-day fly-drive tours low/high
season $1695/1795, 12-day overland tours low/high
season $2320/2480) Advanced eco-tourism accredited
tours with numerous combinations.

Getting There & Away

AIR

QantasLink (%13 13 13) flies twice daily from

Cairns to Horn Island and Weipa.
Regional Pacific Airlines (%1300 797 667, 07-4040
1400) flies from Cairns to Bamaga on Monday,
Wednesday, Thursday and Friday.
Skytrans (%1800 818 405; www.skytrans.com.au)
flies from Cairns to Coen and Yorke Island,
and offers a charter service.
BOAT

MV Trinity Bay (%1800 424 422, 07-4035 1234; www.sea

swift.com.au) is a weekly cargo ferry that departs
Cairns every Friday and reaches Thursday
Island on Sunday and Bamaga on Monday
morning. The five-day return trip costs
from $970 per person (twin share) including meals.

QUEENSLAND

Aurukun
Aboriginal
Community

ef

Worbody Pt

Re

ABORIGINAL
LAND

Mungkan Kandju
National Park

Great Barrier Reef

Marine Park

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462 C A P E Y O R K P E N I N S U L A L a k e l a n d & L a u r a

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Trevathan Falls is a hidden treasure, with
a safe, secluded swimming hole under the
forest canopy. From Cooktown head south,
turning left at Mt Amos Rd. After about 9km
youll see a track to your right; take it for
about 1km until you reach a fork. Turn
right for about 2km until you reach a gate.
Four-wheel-drive access is recommended.
Dont go through the gate; instead turn left,
which will take you to the falls. Take a picnic
and your swimming costume. Its divine.

lonelyplanet.com

About 50km from Lakeland is the turn-off

to Split Rock (Guguylangi) Galleries (Split Rock/entire
trail $5/10). Pay in the honesty box; no photography is allowed. The galleries contain the best
surviving examples of Quinkan rock painting,
one of the most distinctive styles of Aboriginal
art, and depictions here date back approximately 14,000 years. No-one has been able to
fully interpret these paintings, as the tribe who
painted them were all massacred or killed by
disease during the 1873 gold rush. For more
information, visit the Quinkan Regional Cultural
Centre (%07-4060 3457) in Laura.

Laura
May to November is the best time to access
the cape, but conditions fluctuate according
to when the Wet arrives, which is when rivers become impassable. If youre planning to
head up outside these months, check road
conditions with the RACQ. If you run into
difficulty, contact the local police:
Bamaga (%07-4069 3156)
Coen (%07-4060 1150)
Cooktown (%07-4069 5320)
Laura (%07-4060 3244)
Lockhart River Community (%07-4060 7120)
Weipa (%07-4069 9119)
Local police can also advise about alcohol
restrictions that apply throughout Cape York
but vary from place to place.
Even as late as June and July the rivers are
fast flowing, have steep banks and frequently
alter course. The Great Dividing Range runs
up the spine of the peninsula, and rivers run
east and west from it. Although the rivers in
the south of the peninsula flow only in the
Wet, those further north flow year-round.
For details on 4WD rental, see the Cairns
(p433) and Cooktown (p458) sections.

LAKELAND & LAURA

The Peninsula Developmental Rd turns off
the CairnsCooktown Mulligan Hwy at Lakeland. Facilities here include a general store
for stocking up with food, petrol and diesel,
a small caravan park and a hotel-motel. From
Lakeland its 734km to Bamaga, almost at
the top of the peninsula. The first stretch to
Laura is not too bad, just some corrugation,
potholes, grids and causeways the creek
crossings are bridged (although they flood
in the Wet).

This town, 12km north of Split Rock, has a general store with food and fuel, a place for minor
mechanical repairs, a post office and Commonwealth Bank agency, and an airstrip.
The Laura Aboriginal Dance Festival is the
major event here, bringing together Aboriginal peoples from all over Cape York and other
parts of Australia for three days. The festival is
held in June of odd-numbered years.
The historic Quinkan Hotel (%/fax 07-4060 3255;
Lot 3, Terminus St; unpowered/powered sites $12/20, dm/s
$15/40) offers accommodation.

Reopened in April 2007, Jowalbinna Rock Art

Safari Camp (4035 4488, 4060 3435; www.jowalbinna.com
.au; unpowered sites $16; tw share cabins s/d $115/170, meals
$12-25), north of Laura, Jowalbinna is 36km off

the Peninsula Development Rd and accessed

via Olive Vale Station. Self-drive visitors are
welcome to visit the Quinkan Rock Art on
half-day rock-art tours (adult/child $55/27.50),
and two-hour rock-art tours ($35/17.50) are
also offered.

C A P E Y O R K P E N I N S U L A L a u r a t o A r c h e r R i v e r R o a d h o u s e 463

THE LAURA FESTIVAL

Every two years, approximately 20 Aboriginal communities from the Cape York region gather
15km outside the tiny town of Laura for three days of song, dance and celebration. The area
has been used as a traditional meeting space for thousands of years, but this particular biennial
event is known as the Laura Festival, and 2007 marked its 17th birthday.
Its an intimate and true insight into Aboriginal Australia and the rich culture of the Cape
York region, which dates back 60,000 years, says Jeremy Gaia, Festival Director since 2003. Its
about keeping those cultures alive.
Held on odd-numbered years, the colourful festival celebrates all elements of indigenous
culture. There are storytelling sessions, traditional song performances, didgeridoo competitions,
weaving workshops and even boomerang and spear throwing. The big draw card, however, is
the dancing.
Thats the core business of the whole festival, says Gaia. Youll never see these dances or
hear these songs anywhere else in the world.
The festival ground itself is surrounded by dozens of Aboriginal art sites famous for their giant
figures known as Quinkans, and for a small fee a local can show you around.
We strongly encourage people to employ a local guide, says Gaia. Because in most remote
communities unemployment is at 90%.
This is the other aim of the festival: to empower local communities, not just by boosting selfesteem and cultural pride, but also through the power of the dollar.
In the mornings we run seminars for Aborigines who want to develop business ideas, says
Gaia. We advise on how to start your own business, how to apply for funding, that kind of thing.
And we encourage people to sell their stuff at the festival.
In the past, up to 10,000 visitors have made the pilgrimage to witness what is thought to be
the longest-running and largest outdoor festival in Australia. These days, however, tickets are
capped at 5000, and one-fifth of those are designated for the performers. Its also important to
note that the Laura Festival is a drug- and alcohol-free event and photography is not allowed
during the dance performances.
As Gaia puts it: Its a fair dinkum look at Aboriginal culture, so youd better buy your tickets
early.

Getting There & Away

Tickets usually go on sale three months before the event and can be purchased via the Quinkan
& Regional Cultural Centre (%07-4060 3457; www.quinkancc.com.au; adult/concession/child $50/30/free)
or at the gate. Tickets include a fee for the on-site camping ground, but as there are only 1000
sites available, these sell out quickly. The town of Laura has a camping and caravan site.

Lakefield National Park

The main turn-off to Lakefield National Park
is a 45-minute drive north of Laura.
Lakefield National Park is the secondlargest national park in Queensland, and the
most accessible on Cape York Peninsula. The
park is best known for its wetlands and prolific
bird life. The extensive river system drains into
Princess Charlotte Bay on its northern perimeter. This is the only national park on the
peninsula where fishing is permitted.
Theres a good QPWS camping ground (per person/
family $4.50/18), with showers and toilets, at Kalpowar Crossing. Contact New Laura QPWS (%074060 3260; www.epa.qld.gov.au) or the Lakefield QPWS
(%07-4060 3271; www.epa.qld.gov.au), further north in
the park, to arrange camping permits.

About 26km before Musgrave is the resort

Lotus Bird Lodge (%/fax 07-4060 3400, 4060 3480;
www.lotusbird.com.au; r incl meals & tours $245), which
is open from around mid-May until the end
of November.
Princess Charlotte Bay, which includes the
coastal section of Lakefield National Park, is
the site of some of Australias biggest rock-art
galleries. Unfortunately, the bay is extremely
hard to reach except from the sea.

LAURA TO ARCHER RIVER

ROADHOUSE
North from Laura, the roads deteriorate further. At the 75km mark, theres the Hann
River crossing and Hann River Roadhouse (%07-

4060 3242; Peninsula Developmental Rd; powered sites $12, s/d

$25/50), a pit-stop selling food (mains $10 to

$15), petrol and, of course, cold beers.

About 20km from here is the turn-off for
the 6km drive east to Mary Valley Station (%074060 3254; www.capeyorkfrontier.com; unpowered sites $17,
d & tr $88), a cattle property offering camping,

homestead rooms and meals, and is well suited

to families on safari. Its also home to one of the
largest colonies of little red flying foxes in the
southern hemisphere (an amazing sight when
they take to air in the late evening) and a resident horse that devours Vegemite on toast.
Another 62km on is Musgrave, with its historic Musgrave Telegraph Station, built in
1887, and Musgrave Roadhouse (%/fax 07-4060

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

CAR

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food (meals $7 to $20).

Coen, 108km north of Musgrave, has a pub,
two general stores, a hospital, a school and a
police station; you can get mechanical repairs
done here. Coen has an airstrip and a racecourse, where picnic races are held in August.
Exchange Hotel (%07-4060 1133; hbreakfast & dinner)
has pub rooms (single/double from $55/70).
The Archer River crossing, 65km north of
Coen, used to be a real terror, but now, with
its concrete causeway, is quite easy. Archer River
Roadhouse (%/fax 07-4060 3266; unpowered sites $16,
s/d/tr/f $55/70/90/120; h7.30am-10pm), on the banks
of the Archer River, is a great place to stop
and enjoy a cold beer and the famous Archer
Burger (meals $12 to $20).
If youre after a breezy holiday house,
Portland House (%07-4060 7193, 0428-591 717; www
.portlandhouse.com.au), 145km from the Archer
River Roadhouse near the Lockhart River
Aboriginal Community, is a real find with
self-contained comforts for those who want
to savour Cape York livin.

Northern National Parks

Three national parks can be reached from the
main track north of Coen. To stay at them you
must be totally self-sufficient. Only about 3km
north of Coen, before the Archer River Roadhouse, you can turn west to the remote Mungkan Kandju National Park. Contact the friendly
Coen QPWS (%07-4060 1137; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) for
more information.
Roughly 21km north of the Archer River
Roadhouse, a turn-off leads 135km through
the Iron Range National Park to the tiny coastal
settlement of Portland Roads. Although still
pretty rough, this track has been improved.
Register with the ranger (%07-4060 7170) on arrival; camping is permitted at designated sites.
The national park has Australias largest area
of lowland rainforest, with some animals that
are found no further south in Australia.
The regions other park, Jardine River
National Park, is much further to the north
(see right).

WEIPA
%07 / pop 2502

Weipa is a bauxite-mining town of red dirt,

coconut palms and intermittent danger signs.
The mine here works the worlds largest deposits of bauxite (the ore from which aluminium is processed).

Weipa Camping Ground (%4069 7871; www.fishing

cairns.com.au/page13-7c.html; unpowered/powered sites
$20/23, cabins from $75; s) operates as the towns

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

THE TIP

575 618; www.aurukunfishingcharters.com; tours per day

$495), based 100km south of Weipa, offers ex-

The first settlement north of the Jardine River

is Bamaga, home to Cape York Peninsulas
largest Torres Strait Islander community.
Theres a post office (and Commonwealth
Bank agency), a hospital, a supermarket, a
bakery, a mechanic and some places to stay.
Resort Bamaga (%07-4069 3050; www.resortbamaga
.com.au; r $180-225; as) is the only four-star accommodation on the Cape. If you need some
luxury, then this is the place (mains $20 to $30).
Theres 4WD hire available ($185 per day).
Seisia, on the coast 5km northwest, has
the central Seisia Resort & Campground (%1800

cellent fully guided fishing tours on lagoons,

wetlands, reefs and the beach. Rates include
meals and accommodation.

653 243, 07-4069 3243; www.fishingcairns.com.au/page137d.html; unpowered sites per person $8, s/d self-contained
units & lodge from $66/106).

informal tourist office, books mine and fishing tours, and provides permits for nearby
camp sites. Its a relaxed camping ground by
the waterfront, close to the shops, and has
facilities for people with disabilities.
Weipa Rent a Car (%4069 7311; info@weiparentacar
.com.au) hires out 4WDs.
Cant leave Cape York without luring a
barramundi? Aurukun Fishing Charters (%0407-

NORTH TO THE JARDINE

After Batavia Downs there are almost 200km
of rough road and numerous river crossings
(the Dulhunty being the major one) before
you reach the Jardine River Ferry & Roadhouse
(%07-4069 1369; unpowered sites $10; h8am-5pm),
which offers camping with shower blocks and
barbecue facilities and petrol (diesel fuel and
unleaded). From the Wenlock River there are
two possible routes to the Jardine ferry: the
more direct but rougher old route (Telegraph
Rd, 155km), and the longer but quicker bypass roads (193km), which branch off the old
route about 40km north of the Wenlock River.
Dont miss Twin Falls, one of the most popular
camping and swimming spots on the Cape;
theres a signpost off the main road about
90km before the roadhouse.
The river crossing, run by the Injinoo Community Council, operates during the Dry only
($88 return, plus $10 for trailers). The fee
includes a permit for bush camping in designated areas north of the river.
Stretching east to the coast from the main
track is the impenetrable country of Jardine
River National Park. It includes the headwaters of
the Jardine and Escape Rivers, where explorer
Edmund Kennedy was killed by Aborigines in
1848. The Jardine River spills more fresh water
into the sea than any other river in Australia.
John Charltons Cape York Adventures (%07-4069
3302; www.capeyorkadventures.com.au; charter service from
$385) operates out of Bamaga and offers cus-

tomised fishing and adventure trips. Six-day

packages including accommodation (twin
share) and five days of activities cost between
$2640 and $3000 per person.

Northeast of Bamaga, off the Cape York

track and about 11km southeast of Cape
York, is Somerset. Established in 1863 as a
haven for shipwrecked sailors, it was meant
to serve as a signal to the rest of the world
that this was British territory. The aim was
for it to become a major trading centre, but
trading functions were moved to Thursday
Island in 1879. Theres nothing much left
now except lovely views.
On the western side of the Tip is the scenic
Punsand Bay Camping Resort (%07-4069 1722; fax
07-4069 1403; unpowered sites per person $10, on-site tents
per person from $55, air-con cabins per person from $95; s).

This place is very well set up and it runs 4WD

tours.
You can also try the Loyalty Beach Campground
& Fishing Lodge (%07-4069 3372; www.loyaltybeach
.com).

THURSDAY ISLAND & TORRES STRAIT

ISLANDS
The Torres Strait Islands have been a part
of Queensland since 1879, the best known
of them being Thursday Island (or TI as its
known locally). The 70 other islands are
sprinkled from Cape York in the south to
almost Papua New Guinea in the north. Erub
(Darnley Island as it is also known) is in the
eastern group, and is of volcanic origin. Its
another important island in the region as it
has come into the spotlight as a campaigner
for equal recognition of Torres Strait Islanders rights.
Torres Strait Islanders came from Melanesia and Polynesia about 2000 years ago,
bringing with them a more material culture
than that of mainland Aboriginal people.

C A P E Y O R K P E N I N S U L A T h e Ti p 465

It was a claim by Torres Strait Islander Eddie

Mabo to traditional ownership of Murray Island that led to the High Court handing down
its groundbreaking Mabo ruling. The courts
decision in turn became the basis for the Federal governments 1993 Native Title legislation;
see the boxed text, p40.
Thursday Island is hilly and just over 3
sq km. It was once a major pearling centre,
and the cemeteries tell the hard tale of that
dangerous occupation. Some pearls are still
produced here from seeded culture farms.
The island is a friendly, easy-going place, and
its main appeal is its cultural mix Asians,
Europeans and Pacific Islanders have all contributed to its history.
The Peddells Ferry Island Tourist Bureau (%074069 1551; www.peddellsferry.com.au; Engineers Wharf;
h8.30am-5pm, to noon Sat) will tell you everything

you need to know.

Sights & Activities

There are fascinating reminders of Thursday
Islands rich history about town. The All Souls
Quetta Memorial Church was built in 1893 in
memory of the shipwreck of the Quetta, which
struck an unchartered reef in the Adolphus
Channel in 1890, with 133 lives lost.
The Japanese section of the towns cemetery
is crowded with hundreds of graves of pearl
divers who died from decompression sickness. The Japanese Pearl Memorial is dedicated
to them. Green Hill Fort, on the western side of
town, was built in 1893, when there were fears
of a Russian invasion.
The Gab Titui Cultural Centre (www.tsra.gov.au)
offers visitors a window to the rich cultural
history and diversity of the Torres Strait. Located on the TI waterfront, this award-winning centre features a gallery for historical
artefacts, exhibitions by local artists, community cultural events and a popular caf
and restaurant.
Situated on Horn Island, a short ferry trip
from TI, the Gateway Torres Strait Resort
(see p466) features a Heritage Museum and
offers local tours.

Sleeping & Eating

Jardine Motel (%07-4069 1555; www.jardinemotel
.com.au; cnr Normanby St & Victoria Pde; s/d $165/185;
ais) has four-star deluxe accommodation, and the budget Jardine Lodge (s/d $120/140,
without bathroom $100/120) has full use of the motel
facilities.

QUEENSLAND

QUEENSLAND

3229; unpowered sites $16, s/t $55/70), which serves

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466 C A P E Y O R K P E N I N S U L A T h u r s d a y I s l a n d & T o r re s S t r a i t I s l a n d s

Other options include:

Gateway Torres Strait Resort (%07-40692222;
www.torresstrait.com.au; Horn Island; s/d/tr $128/$148/
$167) Offers a range of accommodation options.
Grand Hotel (%07-4069 1557; www.grandhotelti.com
.au; 6 Victoria Pde; s/d from $130/150) Ocean views. Malu
Paru la carte restaurant and pub counter meals.
Federal Hotel (%07-4069 1569; www.federalhotelti
.com.au; Victoria Pde; s/d incl cooked breakfast $120/140,
s/d with shared bathroom $50/80; a) Classic Queenslander, with motel and pub rooms, harbour views and
counter meals
Rainbow Motel (%07-4069 2460; fax 07-4069 2714;
Douglas St; s/d $77/99) Clean, with the best burger bar.

Getting There & Around

www.lonelyplanet.com

Lonely Planet Publications

467

Tropics (%1300 656 110, 07-4040 1222; www.aero-tropics

.com.au) and Regional Pacific Airlines (%1300 797
667, 07-4040 1400; www.regionalpacific.com.au) fly weekdays from Cairns to Bamaga (from $280 one
way).
There are regular ferry services between
Seisia and Thursday Island (one way/return
$47/94, one hour) run by Peddells Ferry Service
(%07-4069 1551; www.peddellsferry.com.au; Engineers
Jetty, Thursday Island).
McDonald Ferry Service (%1300 664 875, 074058 1344) operates between Thursday Island

and Horn Island. The ferries run roughly

hourly between 6am and 6pm ($9 one way,
15 minutes). Ferry and airport transfers are
$16. Rebel Marine (%07-4069 1586) operates a
water taxi and bus service between TI and
the Horn Island Airport connecting with all
QantasLink flights ($20).

QUEENSLAND

QantasLink (%13 13 13; www.qantas.com.au) flies daily

from Cairns to Thursday Island (from $480
return). The airport is on Horn Island. Aero

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