Ziynet Ondogan,

Cetin Erdogan
Ege University, Engineering Faculty,
Textile Engineering Department,
35100 Bornova-Izmir, TURKEY
Phone: 00.90.532.285 84 34
Fax: 00.90.232.339 92 22
E-mail: [email protected]
E-mail: [email protected]

The Comparison of the Manual

and CAD Systems for Pattern Making,
Grading and Marker Making Processes
Abstract
The objective of this research is to conduct a comparison in pattern and marker making
between the CAD and manual methods as regards individual course steps and total time
values, and to determine the effective of model complexity on these times. For this purpose,
four models starting from the simplest to the most complex were designed, and the course
steps of the traditional manual method and CAD were first established. Each course step was
carried out repeatedly by an expert according to statistical norms. In order to determine in
which steps and for which model CAD can be more productive, the data obtained for both
methods was compared with respect to the individual time value of each course step and the
total time values. Furthermore, the possible causes of the results obtained were discussed
and suggestions were put forward.
Keywords: development of CAD, functions of CAD, model complexity, pattern making,
marker making.

n Introduction
Devices performing high-tech services
in the apparel industry are commonly referred to as CAD/CAM. In the apparel
industry, CAD systems are mainly used
in various processes such as garment
design, pattern preparation, pattern grading and marker making. CAM systems
include computerissed sewing machines,
fabric spreading & cutting systems, and
mover systems used during the sewing
process of apparel production [14].
While computerised sewing machines,
spreading systems, cutting machines
and mover mechanisms provide a highly
technological support during the production phase, CAD systems are extensively
used during the preproduction phase,
which is labour-intensive [16].
During the design and production phases,
CAD/CAM systems indirectly improve
the productivity and efficiency of companies by contributing to the integration and
automation processes. CAD/CAM constitutes the technological infrastructure
of the concept of CIM, which has been
described as the factory of the future [2].

n Development of CAD systems

In the 1960s, several brands of computers were introduced onto the market, and
textile engineers started to think about
CAD. These machines, called mainframes, were gigantic devices. Punchcards were prepared and then processed
in the computer using the technology of
the time. The result of the work that was
ordered could only be obtained the next

62

day, or sometimes the following week.

These methods, such as transforming the
work of the designer into the punches on
the cards and arranging their positions in
jacquard weaves and knits, required long
and arduous efforts during routine textile
processes. This process was first put into
practice at MIT in the years 1963-4. In
the beginning, the data was loaded onto
central computers simultaneously. After some time, graphic terminals were
developed, which proved to be a great
help. The real development, on the other
hand, which paved the way for creative
designing, started with the introduction
of interactive computers. Mini-computers started to be used by small groups of
people, and our modern-day PCs formed
strong networks with one another. It become possible to see on the screen what
the designer had in mind at a period no
later than the time he would have spent if
he had drawn the whole design himself.
Now, designers had no excuse not to
make use of the creative changes provided by this favourable environment [8].
By the end of 1993, many CAD/CAM
vendors had automatic marker-making
capability. However, much work remains
to be done, due to the heuristic nature
of the process. The technique is only
employed for costing purposes, with the
interactive method being the choice for
production markers. A programme that
enables an automatic marker-making
system to compact patterns (by placing
the pattern pieces as closely together as
possible) in only 30-45 seconds has been
developed. This programme compacts
markers automatically in less time, almost as efficiently as an operator does.

However, it needs some corrections by

the operator so as to improve cutting
quality and fabric usage productivity [7].
Today, the three-dimensional body scanner is a promising new technology that
will contribute revolutionary changes
to the conception, design, manufacture
and distribution of apparel. Currently,
the quantification of fit is complex and
ambiguous, and objective methods, such
as comparison of linear measurements,
are inadequate. Body scanning provides
multi-dimensional data that can provide
new insights into sizing and grading
systems [3].
The 3D PDS system, developed for 3D
pattern designing, originates from the
shape of the body. It is possible to apply
not only a standard mannequin within
the system, but also models selected or
created by the user. Thus, more suitable
body measurements can be applied for
made-to-measure garments [20].
How functional the related software is
affects the continuation of development.
Tendencies are mostly towards automated garment development from body
scan data. For body scanning to support
automated garment development, automatic integration of measurement data
into commercially available CAD/CAM
software must be achieved first. To date,
body scan data does not automatically
integrate with any commercially available CAD/CAM system or measurement
extraction algorithmic process. The lack
of standard formats for transmitting body
scan data further impedes the process, in
that a recipient of body scan data cannot currently be assured that the critical

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / March 2006, Vol. 14, No. 1 (55)

measurements needed for the product design have been appropriately extracted.
The principle of this research, to link critical garment sizing measurements with
critical anthropometric measurements
extracted from body scans, is planned as
a three-year investigation. In years 2 and
3 we will move toward the development
and activation of the model, culminating
in the creation of the integration linkage
necessary for Automated Garment Development [5].

below, the number of pieces were arranged so as to increase the numbers

steadily;
n Model 1; consists of 5 pieces (Figure 1),
n Model 2; consists of 7 pieces (Figure 2),
n Model 3; consists of 9 pieces (Figure 3),
n Model 4; consists of 11 pieces (Figure 4).
Garment patterns

The material for this study consists of

garment models, patterns, transparent
pattern papers, cardboards, CAD systems, a chronometer and fabrics.

Patterns belonging to all models were

prepared according to the steps shown
below;
n Main size pattern preparation,
n Grading of main size patterns,
n Different sizes separated by copying
nest sizes on transparent pattern papers,
n Cardboard patterns obtained by transferring these transparent patterns on
cardboard.

Garment Models

Fabrics

A basic t-shirt was chosen as a model,

due to the fact that it is manufactured
widely in small-, medium- and largescale companies in the apparel sector,
and that it is in constant demand on the
market throughout the year.

All fabrics are without pattern. The fabric

parameters are as stated below:
n 120 g/m2 in weight, 88 cm in width,
100% cotton 30/1 single jersey tubular
fabric,
n 120 g/m2 in weight, 120 cm in width,
100% cotton 30/1 single jersey open
width fabric,
n 140 g/m2 in weight, 45 cm in width,
100% cotton 30/1 11 rib tubular fabric.

n Material

Starting with the basic t-shirt, a total of

four t-shirt models were worked on and
graded, increasing the number of pieces
for each model steadily. As can be seen

Figure 1. Model 1.

Figure 2. Model 2.

CAD systems
Five different CAD systems were used
to obtain the findings: Assyst, Gerber,
Investronica, Konsan, Lectra.

n Methodology
Evaluation Research aims to demonstrate
to what extent previously stated targets
have been reached within the unity of
the research by trying to determine the
relationship among input, output, process
and performance variables in the studies
being carried out [10].
Considering the fact that this research
includes analytic assessments, the Evaluation Survey Methodology was chosen,
as it is the most suitable method for the
objective direction, application studies
and data evaluation of the research.
Technical drawings and size set tables
of the basic t-shirt which form the material of this research were prepared by
the author. These technical drawings are
proportional and equipped with necessary measurements, sewing instructions
and fabric varieties for the preparation of
garment patterns.
Two methods were applied to obtain
the findings in the research, the manual
method and the CAD method. Then, the
stages for carrying out the research were
determined. On this basis the procedures
forming the research were also established [18]. These were determined separately for the manual and CAD working
methods.
Either of the two procedures stated below
can be followed to work the model with
the CAD system:
1- Digitising the main size patterns after
preparing them manually,
2- Preparing from the beginning of the
main size patterns using CAD.
To follow the latter procedure, CAD
system operators have to be good pattern
designers at the same time. This is not a
frequently encountered situation in the
apparel industry. Mostly, the main size
patterns are prepared manually and then
digitised by following the former procedure in the industry.

Figure 3. Model 3.

Figure 4. Model 4.

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / March 2006, Vol. 14, No. 1 (55)

In this research, the main size patterns

were prepared manually by the author to
be digitised, due to the fact that a method
similar to the course of the work in the
industry was used.

63

Table 1. Stages and procedures for the manual working method.

Number
of stage
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

6.

7.
8.

Stages

structions by the author, and the work

was carried out under her supervision.

Procedures

Main size pattern preparation

A. Measurement check
Main size pattern checking and
B. Checking of face to face sewing places
correction
C. Main size pattern correction
A. Production gathering allowances
Putting necessary allowances on
B. Shrinkage allowances
patterns
C. Seam allowances
Main size pattern size setting
A. Measurement check
Size set patterns check and correction B. Checking of face to face sewing places
C. Correction of size set patterns
A. Separation of sizes of nested patterns
B. Cutting of patterns on transparent papers
C. Checking of patterns on transparent papers
D. Correction of patterns on transparent papers
Arrangements prior to marker making E. Transferring patterns on transparent papers to
cardboard
F. Checking the patterns on cardboard
G. Correcting the patterns on cardboard
H. Cutting the patterns on cardboard
A. Fabric and rib marker making
Marker making and correction
B. Checking and correcting fabric and rib marker
A. Fabric marker plotting
Marker plotting
B. Rib marker plotting

Table 2. Stages and procedures for the CAD system working method.
Number
of stage
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.

Stages

Procedures

A. Main size pattern preparation manually

B. Digitising main size patterns
A. Measurement check
Main size pattern checking and
B. Checking of face to face sewing places
correction
C. Main size pattern correction
A. Production gathering allowances
Putting necessary allowances on
B. Shrinkage allowances
patterns
C. Seam allowances
Main size pattern size setting
A. Measurement check
Size set patterns check and correction B. Checking of face to face sewing places
C. Correction of size set patterns
Model file preparation
Arrangements prior to marker making A.
B. Order file preparation
A. Fabric and rib marker making
Marker making and correction
B. Fabric and rib marker check and correction
A. Fabric marker plotting
Marker plotting
B. Rib marker plotting
Main size pattern preparation

The research was carried out in two

directions: In the first direction, the manual method was compared with the CAD
method to investigate the effects of model
complexity. The course steps and procedures for the model chosen were applied
both manually and by the CAD method.
The course steps and procedures for the
manual method were realised by the author. Those for the CAD method were realised by an expert CAD system operator.

The pattern designers had 15-20 years of

experience in the industry, and were capable of preparing patterns on all kinds of
models. The pattern technicians chosen
had the same level of experience and expertise as their colleagues in the industry.
The CAD system operators were chosen
from among people who had good command of patterns and the CAD system.
The required duties were presented to
both groups in the form of a list of in-

During the studies carried out in the

second direction, the aim was to compare the manual method with the CAD
method separately for each stage value
and the total values. At this point only
the Model-1 was handled, and related
stages and procedures were conducted
5 times by 5 different expert pattern
designers and pattern technicians, and 5
times by 5 different expert CAD system
operators and operator assistants by using five different CAD systems.

Figure 5. Comparison of the manual and

CAD methods (4Models).

64

Two procedures were followed to obtain findings in the research. The stages
and procedures for the manual working
method are shown in Table 1.
Stages and procedures for the CAD
working method are shown in Table 2.
Each course step was timed by a digital chronometer while carrying out the
timing process; human activity and the
usage of production instruments for the
person doing the work (or the production
instrument being used) were also taken
into consideration [19]. Based on these
usage times and activities, timings were
also taken for the Main Activity and
Alternative Activity, & the Main Usage and Alternative Usage.
The concept of production loss is often
expressed in terms of losses suffered
due to a failure to obtain appropriate and
profitable returns from the investment.
The three kinds of losses experienced
in industrial establishments are losses in
work power, production activities, raw
materials and accessories [4].
Similar losses are also observed in the
apparel sector. The share of raw materials and accessories, which are the main
items of the apparel industry, reaches
50-60% of production costs. These losses
suffered in the apparel industry are pieces
called waste and surplus fabric, and
they often do not have any definite commercial value [6]. Therefore, the effects
of the CAD system on the cost of fabric,
which has the greatest share within the
total product cost, were also included
into the scope of the research.
For this reason, after the completion
of all kinds of work related to patterns,
markers were prepared both manually

Figure 6. Comparison of manual and CAD

systems.

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / March 2006, Vol. 14, No. 1 (55)

and by CAD. If the difficulty of working

with cardboard patterns in an area with a
minimum width of 85-90 cm and a length
of 10-15 m, and the greatness of fabric
waste are considered, the convenience
and utility of CAD systems in preparing
markers can be better understood [14].
At this point, markers were initially prepared by using cardboard patterns on a
long table, and replicated five times by
five different persons. Then the operators repeated the same procedure on the
CAD. The system enables the grain line
of the patterns to be parallel to the warp,
the pieces to be accurate, and the special
restrictions related to patterns determined
previously to be properly applied. The results obtained using both methods were
compared.

n Evaluation of findings
The Mann Whitney U Test was used to
evaluate the findings obtained. The Mann
Whitney Test is a method of statistical
evaluation which compares the medians
of two independent samples, and which
is nonparametric. It is used if the two independent groups are the same. This test
does not necessitate a normal or nearnormal distribution, but it needs the obtainment of the following hypothesis [1].
n Random sampling,
n Independent sampling,
n Independent observations for each
sampling.
Findings and discussion
Time-related data obtained as a result of
studies conducted can be seen below in
Table 3. As can be seen in this table, the
time difference between the manual and
CAD methods increases as one moves
from Model-1 to Model-4; in other
words, from the simple model to the
more complicated one.
Figure 5 shows the graph obtained as
a result of a comparison between the
manual and CAD methods with regard to
time-related data for the four models .
At this point, the time values increase in
the manual method as one moves from
Model-1 to Model-4, whereas the values
for the CAD system remain within a
close range.
Findings obtained after the data in Table 3 were assessed by the Mann Whitney Test, as shown in Table 4. The P

Table 3. Time-related data according to stages for manual and CAD methods (4 Models);
Unit time: second.
Model

Number
of stage

Manual

CAD

Manual

3
CAD

Manual

4
CAD

Manual

CAD

585

750

790

470

1,065

590

1,110

55

110

115

35

110

50

120

45

545

165

725

185

1,090

200

955

345

1,200

345

1,210

1,330

30

1,575

45

490

55

245

150

480

170

220

180

13,630

115

19,925

150

25,750

90

28,970

140

715

325

715

995

780

970

1,055

1,000

940

1,640

2,030

1,645

1,705

2,020

2,145

1,380

17,955

3,770

25,450

4,065

32,025

4,590

35.780

3,975

8
Total
Manual - CAD

+ 14,185

+ 21,385

+ 27,465

435

+ 31,805

Table 4. Findings obtained as result of assessment of time-related data by Mann Whitney

Test (4 Models).
Model

Methods
Manual

Manual
Manual

565

4,170

1,319

140

505

160

2,575

720

6,128

1,938

363

122

545

172

3,231

922

7,933

2,509

412

100

644

204

3,615

1,005

8,938

2,826

357

122

469

148

28,094

29,032

7,892

3,946

3,706

3,600

281

140

CAD
Manual

CAD

Toplam

Manual
CAD

Standard
Error

350

CAD

Statistical data
Standard
Deviation

1,816

CAD

Median

P
0.2413
0.2123
0.0963
0.1859
0.0304

Table 5. Time-related values based on stages for manual and CAD systems (Model 1); Unit
time: seconds.
Number of
stage
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Total
Difference

Methods

Repeats
1

MANUAL

420

460

430

500

440

CAD

645

585

640

720

570

60

65

80

120

55

CAD

280

25

200

365

200

MANUAL

285

305

285

555

545

CAD

475

155

150

190

355

1,110

1,030

990

1,170

1,080

CAD

275

345

245

480

380

MANUAL

210

505

305

575

490

CAD

205

55

115

465

180

5,870

6,000

6,040

6,185

6,255

MANUAL

MANUAL

MANUAL
CAD

190

115

145

210

70

MANUAL

500

530

325

420

470

345

150

475

510

445

2,440

2,315

915

1,530

1,245

CAD
MANUAL
CAD

1,750

800

1,825

950

1,990

10,895

11,210

9,370

11,055

10,580

CAD

4,165

2,230

3,795

3,890

4,190

MANUAL - CAD

6,730

8,980

5,575

7,165

6,390

MANUAL

value was seen to have reached its lowest

level in Model 3, which has the longest
pattern perimeter due to having long
sleeves. It has also been observed that
the P value reached its second lowest

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / March 2006, Vol. 14, No. 1 (55)

level in Model 4, which has the highest

number of pieces.
Moreover, in the assessment of total
times for all models, where P:0.0304

65

Table 6. Findings obtained as a result of assessment of values by means of Mann Whitney Test (Model 1).
Number
of stage

Methods

450.0

440.0

31.6

14.1

632.0

640.0

59.2

26.5

76.0

65.0

26.3

11.8

CAD

214.0

200.0

125.8

56.2

MANUAL

395.0

305.0

141.8

63.4

CAD

265.0

190.0

144.2

64.5

1,076.0

1,080.0

69.9

31.2

CAD

345.0

345.0

92.7

41.4

MANUAL

417.0

490.0

152.8

68.3

CAD

204.0

180.0

157.2

70.3

MANUAL

6
7
8

6,070.0

6,040.0

152.7

68.3

CAD

146.0

145.0

56.5

25.3

MANUAL

449.0

470.0

80.3

35.9

CAD

385.0

445.0

145.0

64.9

MANUAL

1,689.0

1,530.0

667.0

298.0

CAD

1,463.0

1,750.0

546.0

244.0

10,622.0

10,895.0

738.0

330.0

3,654.0

3,890.0

814.0

364.0

MANUAL

Total

Standart
Error

CAD

MANUAL

Statistical data
Standart
Deviation

MANUAL
MANUAL

Median

CAD

Significant
of difference

In favour
of method

significant

manual

no significant

between
the two methods

no significant

between
the two methods

0.0122

significant

CAD

0.0367

significant

CAD

0.0122

significant

CAD

0.6761

no significant

between
the two methods

0.6761

no significant

between
the two methods

0.0122

difference significant

CAD

P
P < 0.05
0.0122
0.1437
0.2101

(P<0.05), the difference stemming from

the comparison of the manual method
with CAD has been found to be in favour
of CAD.

the patterns to be processed increased,

and this continued in the same manner
at an increasing pace until the end of the
eighth stage.

Time-related data obtained as the result

of studies carried out in order to make
a comparison of manual and CAD
systems is seen in Table 5. An examination of total values of time-related
data will reveal the fact that the time
periods related to CAD are shorter than
those for the manual system. The graph
obtained as a result of a comparison of
time-related data found for manual and
CAD systems in Model 1 is shown in
Figure 6.

Findings obtained as a result of assessment of data given in Table 5 by means

of the Mann Whitney Test are shown in
Table 6 together with the comparison of
findings related to the manual method for
each stage.

As can be seen at this point, the situation

which was in favour of the manual method in the first, second and third stage has
started to change in favour of the CAD
method starting from the fourth stage,
as the number of sizes and consequently
Table 7. Distribution of sizes in marker.
Sizes

XS

XL

Quantities

Table 8. Marker lengths (4 Models).

Lengths, m
Models

66

Manual
method

CAD system
method

Difference
Manual
- CAD

9.85

9.49

0.36

11.60

10.19

1.41

15.42

14.36

1.06

10.90

9.75

1.15

In the preparation of main size patterns,

the manual system seems to be superior
due to the fact that the main size patterns
are prepared in advance manually and
then digitised. These methods were preferred since the system operators do not
have sufficient qualifications.

n In steps such as checking, correcting

and putting necessary allowances
on main size patterns, no significant
difference has been found between
the two methods, due to effects of
personal skills and productivity in
particular.
n Since grading main size patterns,
checking graded patterns and making
arrangements prior to marker making
procedures demand manual labour
and time, it is only natural for the
CAD systems to be advantageous in
these steps.
n During marker-making preparation,
checking, correcting and plotting
procedures, neither method was found
to be superior to the other, which was
unpredicted.
n In assessing the total times for all
stages, the level of significance between the two methods was found in
favour of CAD, as predicted.
n When the differences between the
marker lengths prepared manually and
by CAD are examined, it will be seen
that the marker prepared by CAD was
shorter even in Model 1, which is the
simplest one, and that the difference
between the marker lengths prepared
manually and by CAD increased in
favour of CAD as the number of patterns increased and the size of patterns
decreased, which can be seen in the
other models.

The results obtained in the first stage are

associated with the above mentioned application.

Making use of CAD helps economise

on fabric usage in addition to improving
stage times. This clearly shows that CAD

Keeping in mind that one of the most important aims of using CAD is to minimise
the waste of fabric, patterns for 4 models
were placed on a 120-cm wide fabric
using manual and CAD systems, in accordance with distribution of sizes shown
in Table 7, markers prepared and marker
lengths measured (Table 8).

n Results
In the study, the following results were
obtained on the basis of the CAD and
manual methods.

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / March 2006, Vol. 14, No. 1 (55)

investments are considerable with respect to savings, not only in labour costs
but also in fabric usage, which amounts
to 60% of total garment costs.

n Recommendations
With the emergence of new global trade
environments, alternatives for production
and provision of all sorts of goods have
increased and competition has become
fierce. Nowadays the shelf life of a product is not long enough to justify the time,
labour and expense necessary for the
design and production manually. This, in
turn, makes CAD extremely important
for apparel production [3].
The increase in the number and the complexity of the models and the decrease in
production time has boosted demands for
automatic grading of garment patterns.
Automatic preparation of garment patterns using body measurements obtained
from body scanning, and furnishing them
with fabric and production characteristics, will greatly contribute to the dynamic structure of the apparel sector. Body
scanning provides multi-dimensional
data that has the potential to provide new
insights into sizing and grading systems.
However, for body scanning to support
automated garment development, automatic integration of measurement data
into commercially available CAD/CAM
software must be achieved first.
More improvement of the software
programmes and training the system
operators on pattern making will enable
the main size pattern to be prepared
from draft; the CAD system will thus
become more efficient in the main size
pattern stage also. For the CAD system
to be more advantageous in the checking and correcting stages of the main
size pattern preparation, dependence on
individuals in CAD functions should be
minimised.
Using the CAD system during marker
making as efficiently as in other steps
naturallyrequires the determination of
certain standards concerning marker
making. Moreover, improving automatic
marker making programmes and preparing markers using these programmes
followed by necessary corrections will
make it possible for the CAD systems to
be profitable during these steps as well.
Until this objective is realised, some solutions can be offered;

1. The system operator must be qualified

in the marker making process.
2. The technician who makes the marker
plan and corrections must learn the
CAD system.
3. Marker makers who prepare the marker plan according to their previous
experience are urged to cooperate and
work together with the CAD operator
in charge.
The root of the matter lies not only in
the selection of the proper CAD system
according to the type of the firm and the
product, but also in the training of the
operators to carry out their functions in
the fastest and the most efficient way, and
to improve the work standards within the
company. Unpredicted problems or results encountered in this research could
therefore be attributed to lack of training.
The in-service training programmes of
the CAD system companies often fall
short of being adequate, because the
trainers are not knowledgeable enough
to provide training on pattern making
and apparel production; the trainees do
not have the proper background; they
are not technically equipped to function
efficiently within the CAD system. Consequently, they fail to reach expected efficiency targets in using the CAD system.
For a lasting solution to this problem, it
is recommended that the cooperation between the universities and the industrial
organizations be promoted in the short
term. As a long-term solution, however,
it is essential that comprehensive and
relevant traning programmes be developed, especially at the college level, and
that the technicians completing these
programmes should be employed in the
apparel industry.
In conclusion, the CAD system is much
more productive compared to the manual
method even in the simplest models, if
a system proper to the structure of the
firm and the type of product is selected,
and if it is used effectively and according to pre-determined objectives. As
can be understood from the results of
the research, CAD systems will provide
great advantages in responding quickly
to multi-piece, multi-size orders in small
quantities. Moreover, this will provide
substantial savings as far as fabric costs
are concerned.

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / March 2006, Vol. 14, No. 1 (55)

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Received 27.07.2004

Reviewed 04.02.2005

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