PAPER PRESENTATION ON

ECO FRIENDLY GARMENT FINISHES, THE NEED OF

HOUR FOR FASHION

BY

J. ANTON ARPUTHA RAJ

III YEAR,

E-mail: [email protected] B. TECH TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY

MOBILE: 9444818511 KSRCT

ABSTRACT

The garment industry's new drive towards high value added products is prompted by
increasing competition from other countries. Current size of apparel industry is 45 Billion
US$, which is 40% of the world market, highest amongst the other potential segments -
Technical Textiles (18%), Home Textiles (20%). Worldwide chemical consumption in
apparel segment is around 60%. Chemicals play a very significant role be it giving a class
of touch through the effects colorful prints to soft handle, from easy care to nano finish
and so on. But, the use of chemicals in finishing has created illicit effects of the
environment as a whole.

Textile industries are facing a challenging in the field of quality and productivity, due to
the globalization. The highly competitive atmosphere and the more stringent ecological
parameters make way for innovations and changes in the present processes.

Textile industries must look to provide one-stop sustainable solution along the whole
textile value chain from pretreatment, through dyeing to finishing. The understanding of
how to minimize the impact of their production on the environment and maximize
quality, innovation and efficient solutions using intelligent chemistry and eco friendly
treatments must be their long term goal. This will promote eco friendly garments as a
whole and counterbalance the harmful effects of the present day chemicals.

Thereby, Garment industries are developing textiles with smart functioning using new
ecological products to provide extra comfort and increased performance in an eco
friendly manner.

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ECO FRIENDLY GARMENT FINISHES: THE NEED OF HOUR FOR FASHION

INTRODUCTION

Garment Finishing though is synonymous word for the process in Denim industry
called "Washing Effects", has now extended to the processing of whole range of ready
garments from shirt, T-shirt, trouser, jacket to all types of clothing. In apparels, chemicals
are widely used to add value to garments through effects varying from various feels such
as soft, supple, dry feel, bouncy feel etc. and/or to adding to the functionality and
durability of the garment such as water-oil repellant finish, wrinkle free finish, moisture
management, stain protection, to name a few Both natural and synthetic textiles are
subjected to a variety of finishing processes. This is done to improve specific properties
in the finished fabric and involves the use of a large number of finishing agents for
softening, cross-linking, and waterproofing.

A suitable textile processing method that delivers not only eco friendly finished products
but also does not hamper the surrounding atmosphere and environment by way of
polluting the air and water respectively, due to emissions and effluent water discharges.

Now world around us is fully aware of the implications of the damages already done to it
for its water and environmental resources by way of gas and effluent discharges from
polluting industries such as textile and leather processing. In order to reduce and save
earth from the pollutions of industries, automotives etc., there comes in to existence
stipulated norms and standards for the finished goods and the way of operation.

Throughout the world almost all countries have forms certain rules and regulations for
importing and exporting processed textile goods. This paper depicts the various textile
finishes employed in the finishing of garments with a major concern on the environment
and new innovative concepts that can be employed in finishing.
WASHING AND FINISHING EFFECTS OF GARMENTS

By Physical Methods

 Stone Wash, Sand Wash

 Grinding
 Brushing
 sanding
 Sand Blasting
 Laser burning/drawing
 Tagging

By Chemical Methods

 Soft Wash
 Enzyme Wash
 Bleach Wash Acid Wash
 Peach Finish
 Rinse Wash
 Caustic Wash
 Pigment Wash

Physio-Chemical Methods

 Bio Polishing
 Permanent press & Wrinkle free finish
 Scrunch Finish
 Moon Wash
 Rodeo Finish
 H.D.W.
  Ice wash, Snow Wash and Diamond Wash
 Monkey Wash
BIO-POLISHING: -

To produce this effect cellulose enzymes were introduced. Earlier Acid cellulose was
used. To achieve this, Genetically Modified enzymes were produced, called GMO's
(Genetically Modified Organisms).

The bio-polishing process targets the removal of the small fiber ends protruding from the
yarn surface and thereby reduces the hairiness or fuzz of the fabrics. The hydrolysis
action of the enzyme weakens the protruding fibers to the extent that a small physical
abrasion force is sufficient to break and remove them. Bio polishing can be accomplished
at any time during wet processing but is most convenient performed after bleaching.

It can be done in both continuous or batch processes. However, continuous processes

require some incubation time for enzymatic degradation to take place. Removing the fuzz
makes the color brighter, the fabric texture more obvious, and reduces pilling.
Unfortunately, the treatment also reduces the fabric strength. Smoother yarns also
increase the fabric softness, appearance and feel. Since it is an additional process, the bio-
polished garments may cost slightly more. Next time you buy apparel, look for the label
"Bio-Polished."

STONEWASH EFFECT

In traditional washing process, volcanic rocks or pumice stones are added to the garments
during washing as abradant. Due to ring dyeing and heavy abrasion fading is more
apparent but less uniform.

The degree of colour fading depends on the garment to stone ratio, washing time, size of
stones, material to liquor ratio and load of garments. Normally after desizing, stone wash
process starts with pumice stone addition in rotary drum type garment washer. Process
time varies from 60-120 mins.
Stone wash effect is one of the oldest but highly demanded washing effects. Stone wash
process gives “used” look or “vintage” on the garments, because of varying degree of
abrasion in the area such as waistband, pocket, seam and body.

There are many limitations and drawbacks associated with stone washing process, which
can be overcome by using new enzyme based washing technology. This technology also
helps to conserve water, time, energy and environment.

SAND BLASTING

Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an abrasive material in granular, powdered

or other form through a nozzle at very high speed and pressure onto specific areas of the
garment surface to be treated to give the desired distressed/ abraded/used look.

ENZYME WASH

Cellulase enzymes are natural proteins which are used in denim garment processing
to get stone wash look on to the denim garments without using stones or by reducing
the use of pumice stone. Cellulase attacks primarily on the surface of the cellulose
fibre, leaving the interior of the fibre as it is, by removing the indigo present in the
surface layer of fibre.

Cellulase enzyme is classified into two classes:

1. Acid Cellulase: It works best in the pH range of 4.5-5.5 and exhibit optimum
activity at 50.
2. Neutral cellulase: It works best at pH 6 however its activity is not adversely
affected in the range of ph 6-8 and show maximum activity at 55 C.

MOISTURE MANAGEMENT/HYDROPHILIC FINISH

Ever since synthetic fibres became popular for clothing purposes, there has been the
desire for a finish to change the hydrophobic character of these fibers. The main reason
was to improve the wearing comfort. Hence the necessity to improve synthetic fibres with
regard to their absorbency. Area of textile finishing where improving the absorbency is
still one of the main considerations are sportswear, some of which is also made with
functional jersey with hydrophobic synthetic fibres on the inside and hydrophilic
cellulosic fibres on the outside. The mode of action consists of the finest fibrilled
microfibres (PES, PA or PP) transporting the moisture rapidly from the skin through the
capillary interstices to the absorbent outer layer. In this way the textile layer of synthetic
fibres next to the skin remains dry (Fig. 1). After dyeing the h y d r o p h o b i c synthetic
fibres usually exhibits no absorbency. Only after application of a suitable hydrophilic
agent can the material fulfill its function. This significantly increases the speed at which
the moisture is spread to the hydrophilic outer layer and thus considerably accelerates
drying.

WRINKLE FREE TREATMENT

By applying resins it is possible to improve specific properties of cellulosic fibres.

Examples of this kind are the improvement in crease recovery, dimensional stability, non-
iron, reduced pilling and particularly with knit goods an improved appearance after
several washes. For successful resin finishing, it is absolutely essential that the goods are
well prepared and the recipes and processes are adhered to and monitored exactly.
The wrinkle free treatment package comprises of a low formaldehyde resin, silicones and
polyethylene emulsion. This treatment involves chemical application of the elements
comprising of this package through a cross linking effect that prevents the formation of
creases and wrinkles which result in easy to iron fabric. Resins do however also have
several effects on the fibres. Resins reduce the (tear) strength of cotton. The extent of the
loss depends on a wide variety of factors such as

1. Amount and type of resin applied;

2. Amount and type of catalyst;
3. Curing conditions;
4. Quality of cotton;
5. Processes preceding finishing
Tensile strength losses up to 30-45% could be expected. For the so called non-iron
finishes, it is therefore often necessary to use qualities with a higher initial strength than
for normal softening finishes. In this connection, it should be mentioned that the tensile
strengths is not normally improved by the additives and softeners used. According to
Elmendorf the tear resistance can however be influenced and maintained at the level of
the unfinished goods or even improved by optimum selection of the softeners and
additives.

WATER / OIL REPELLANT FINISH

This finish gives hydrophobic features to the substrate. There are three main product
groups for this finish

1. Metal salt paraffin dispersion

2. Polysiloxane
3. Fluorocarbon polymers

When finishing with these products, the surface of the goods must be covered with
molecules in such a way that their hydrophobic radicals are ideally positioned as
parallelly as possible facing outwards. Aluminium salt paraffin dispersions are positively
charged products due to the trivalent aluminium salt. This produces a counter polar
charge on the fibre surface which is significant for the adsorption of the product. After
drying, the fat radicals form a so-called "brush" perpendicular to the fibre surface which
prevents water drops from penetrating into the fibre (Fig. 2). Polysiloxanes form a fibre-
encircling silicone film with methyl group’s perpendicular to the surface. The oxygen
atoms are facing towards the fibre. The film formation and direction of the methyl groups
are responsible for the hydrophobic properties of the finish. Fluorocarbon polymers also
form a film where the fluorocarbon radicals are perpendicular to the fibre axis thus
prevent wetting of the fibre surface. Their high hydrophobic and oleophobic action is
explained by the extremely low interfacial tension of the fluorocarbon chain towards all
chemical compounds. When finishing with these products, the surface of the goods must
be covered with molecules in such a way that their hydrophobic radicals are ideally
parallel and facing outwards.

UV PROTECTION

Fabric treated with UV absorbers ensures that the clothes deflect the harmful ultraviolet
rays of the sun, reducing a person's UVR exposure and protecting the skin from potential
damage. The extent of skin protection required by different types of human skin depends
on UV radiation intensity and geographical location, time of day, and season. This
protection is expressed as SPF (Sun Protection Factor), higher the SPF value better is the
protection against UV radiation.

The SPF value of textile depends on fibre type, the fabric construction (porosity and
thickness), and the finish. It means that transmission, absorption and reflectance nature of
textile influences SPF value. It provides vital information about the fabric's sun
protection ability. In order to achieve the required UV protection level using right choice
of UV-absorbers and applying it properly the use of UV absorbers is a must for cellulosic
minimizing the risk to lose UV-protection of garments while in use. By using UV
absorbers, exposure of the textile to UV lights is reduced on the one hand as well as the
intensity of the transmitted UV light on the other. Good skin protection is achieved by the
textile itself with a sufficient weight of fabric. But the desired protective function is
achieved by achieved by means of an additional finish. An UV absorber can be applied
either during fibre manufacture or in the final finish which also offers the same degree of
protection.

ANTI-MICROBIAL FINISH

The inherent properties of textile fibres provide room for the growth of micro-organisms.
The structure and chemical process may induce the growth, but it is the humid and warm
environment that aggravates the problem further. Antimicrobial finish is applied to textile
materials with a view to protect the wearer and textile substrate itself. Antimicrobial
finish provides the various benefits of controlling the infestation by microbes protect
textiles from staining, discoloration, and quality deterioration and prevents the odor
formation. Anti-microbial agents can be applied to the textile substrates by exhaust, pad-
dry-cure, coating, spray and foam techniques. The application of the finish is now
extended to textiles used for outdoor, healthcare sector, sports and leisure.

SOIL RELEASE FINISH

Soil release finish facilitate removal of waterborne and oil stains from fabrics such as
polyester and cotton blends and fabrics treated for durable press, which usually show
some resistance to stain removal by normal cleaning processes. This finish is especially
suitable for sportswear, underwear, uniforms and work wear etc.

FLAME RETARDANT FINISH

Use of flame retardants helps prolongation the time needed to fully develop the fibre by
reducing the flame propagation. Depending on the application, the flame retardant
finishing of fabrics can always be divided into wash resistant or non-wash resistant
finishing. In case of apparels, nonpermanent flame retardant finish is possible at the
garment stage because of constraint in the application techniques involved. These non-
durable finishes are however fast to dry cleaning, but not to repeated launderings.

FINISHING WITH SOFTENERS

The softeners can be roughly classified in two groups:

1. Non-permanent softeners which can be removed fairly easily by washing;

2. Permanent softeners which still exhibit a distinctly soft handle even after several
washes.
The hydrophobic or hydrophilic properties of softeners also have an effect on the handle
character of the finished textiles: Softeners with a hydrophobic effect impart a pleasant,
voluminous, often slightly fatty handle; Softeners with hydrophilic properties usually
provide much drier handle which is often felt to be less soft. Polyurethane softeners also
provide interesting, permanent handle variations. The handle effects obtainable with
softeners depend not only on the chemical character, but also on their position in the
textile. If the softener is attached mainly on the outside of the yarns, then it is the primary
effect of the chemical character which is felt moist, dry, fatty, oily, smooth, rubbery, etc.
However, if the softener is able to penetrate into the yarn between the individual fibres, a
secondary handle effect is obtained: so-called "inner softness" produced by the reduction
in fiction between the individual fibres.

INNOVATIVE CONCEPTS

New concepts based on nanotechnology such as ease release, quick wick, rare care,
finishes further improve the functionally of the textile by imparting the various properties
such as Soil release, anti-pilling effect, water/oil repellency, hygiene effect, easy care and
odor free effect. Other innovations based on 3-E concept offering 3 immediate benefits of
Efficiency, Ecology and Economy include Black Magic - "No Rinse" process for
discontinuous bleaching, exhibits less water, time and energy consumption.

SERVING RESOURCES IN TEXTILES

Huntsman delivers a range of innovative effects, which:

1. reduce the amount of energy required in the care of garments

2. keep clothes fresher without washing
3. keep garments looking new for longer
4. reduce or eliminate the need to tumble dry or iron
5. eliminate the need to dry clean

Hence, textile manufacturers may switch to such type of processes that may typically
reduce the finishes employed to the garments.
CONCLUSION

With the advent of 4E services, Textile industries are now able to provide one-stop
sustainable solution along the whole textile value chain from pretreatment, through
dyeing to finishing. The key difference between 4E and traditional environmental
solutions is that the focus is on a holistic approach, instead of just one single area, such as
product safety.

As far as Environment goes, the focus is on achieving fewer Emissions, less effluent and
fewer pollutants, by giving more consideration over biodegradability and bioelimination
of the processes. The second E refers to Ecology and it is achieved through the
company’s compliance with its internal and international product safety standards.

Efficiency is a key concern for most customers of chemical products. That also means
where possible reusing water, providing intelligent new effects with maximum
absorbency and higher exhaustion and build-up. The last E refers to Economy. It means
using less water, time and energy while using machinery to maximum capability.

“The whole apparel supply chain can add value by adopting the 4E concept.
Manufacturers benefit from using less water and lowering energy consumption, while
consumers will not need to use higher temperature to wash their garment or spend time
ironing. Energy consumption can be lowered considerably,” says Keith Parton,
Clariant’s Head of Textile Marketing in Asia.

In order to add value in the garments, different types of finishes are adopted. The
application of Nano finishes has also been growing to obtain better level of performance
properties. Ecology and Fashion are also the driving factors for the adoption of these
innovative technologies. This will result in more greener and eco friendly textile
industries and products.

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