AA59826

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INCH-POUND

A-A-59826
03 March 2009
SUPERSEDING
V-T-295E
1 August 1985
COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION
THREAD, NYLON
The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this commercial item
description as a replacement for V-T-295 for all federal agencies.
1. SCOPE. This commercial item description covers nylon thread used for machine
and hand-sewing.
2. CLASSIFICATION. The thread shall be of the following Types and Classes. In
end item documents where neither Class designation "A" or "B" is indicated, the
requirements for Class "A" shall apply.
2.1 Type. Type I
Type II
Type III
Type IV
Type V
Type VI
Type VII

- Twisted multiple cord, unbonded, soft finish


- Twisted multiple cord, bonded finish
- Monocord, bonded finish
- Hand-sewing twist, waxed finish
- Buttonhole twist, hand-sewing (waxed)
- Tailoring, twisted multiple cord, soft finish
- Quilting thread, coreless cocoon bobbins and top thread, twisted
multiple cord, soft finish

2.2 Class. Class A


Class B

- General purpose
- Non-wicking (Type I or II)

3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS. The thread shall be bright, high tenacity continuous


multifilament nylon. The nylon shall be a polyamide prepared from hexamethylene diamine and
adipic acid or its derivatives. The thread shall have a melting point of not less than 472F and
conform to the applicable requirements specified in Tables I through X. Types II and III threads
shall be bonded with a colorless nylon polymer agent.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Defense Supply
Center Philadelphia, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DSCP Standardization Team, 700
Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5096. Since contact information can change, you may
want to verify the currency of the address information using Acquisition Streamlining and
Standardization Information System (ASSIST) online database at http://assist.daps.dla.mil.
AMSC N/A

FSC 8310

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A-A-59826

3.1 Twist direction. Unless otherwise specified, the direction of the final twist shall be "Z"
except that number sizes of Types I, II and VII threads when used for sole stitching of footwear,
or coreless bobbins and top threads for quilting may be "S" or "Z. The final twist of Type IV
shall be S.
3.2 Physical characteristics. The finished thread shall conform to the applicable requirements
for the specified Type, Tex no. (*Approximate size. True Tex size is measurement of gram
weight of 1000 meters of finished thread), within the stated approximate ranges below and
Government size (letter or number) set forth in Tables I through Table VII when tested as
specified in Table VIII.
3.2.1 Type I thread. The Type I thread shall be unbonded, plied thread with each individual
yarn having an initial twist in the opposite direction to the final twist, and the initial twist shall
meet or exceed the final twist per inch TPI and shall conform the physical characteristics
specified in Table I when tested as specified in Table VIII.
TABLE I. Physical characteristics of Type I (Twisted multiple cord, soft finish),
Tex No.
(g/km)
16-17
21-23
30-32
45-46
68-70
90-101
135-144

Government
Letter size
00
A
AA
B
E
F
FF

Ply
2
3
2 or 3
2 or 3
3
3 or 4
3

Length per pound


Breaking Elongation,
(yards)
strength, lbs.
%
min.
max.
(min.)
(max.)
25,801
31,000
1.8
26
18,001
25,800
2.8
26
13,001
18,000
4.1
26
8,701
13,000
6.0
26
5,801
8,700
9.0
26
4,001
5,800
11.8
26
2,901
4,000
17.5
35

Final twist
TPI (min.)
12.0
10.0
9.0
7.0
6.0
5.5
5.0

Government
Number size
205-210
270-292
350-381
400-472
600-601

3
4
5
6
8

3
3
3
3
3

4.5
4.0
3.5
3.0
2.5

1,951
1,451
1,151
951
701

2,900
1,950
1,450
1,150
950

27.0
36.0
45.0
54.0
72.0

35
35
35
35
35

3.2.2 Type II thread. The Type II thread shall be a bonded, plied thread with each individual
yarn having an initial twist in the opposite direction to the final twist, and the initial twist shall
meet or exceed the final TPI and shall conform the physical characteristics specified in Table
II when tested as specified in Table VIII.

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A-A-59826

TABLE II. Physical characteristics of Type II (Twisted multiple cord, bonded finish)
Tex
No.,
Government
(g/km)
Letter size
16-19
00
21-25
A
30-36
AA
45-51
B
70-76
E
90-112
F
135-160
FF
210-268
3
270-325
4
350-426
5
400-526
6
600-684
8

Final
Ply twist TPI
(min.)
2
12.0
3
10.0
2 or 3
9.0
2 or 3
7.0
3
6.0
3 or 4
5.5
3
5.0
3
4.5
3
4.0
3
3.5
3
3.0
3
2.5

Length per pound Breaking


Elongation,
(yards)
strength, lbs.
% (max.)
min.
max.
(min.)
23,201 29,000
1.8
26
16,201 23,200
2.8
26
11,701 16,200
4.1
26
7,801 11,700
6.0
26
5,201
7,800
9.0
26
3,601
5,200
11.8
26
2,601
3,600
17.5
35
1,751
2,600
27.0
35
1,301
1,750
36.0
35
1,051
1,300
45.0
35
851
1,050
54.0
35
600
850
72.0
35

3.2.3 Type III thread. The Type III thread shall be a single ply construction, consisting of a
minimum of 17 filaments bonded together to form a smooth even monochord and the twist
shall be no more than 4 TPI and shall conform the physical characteristics specified in Table
III when tested as specified in Table VIII.
TABLE III. Physical characteristics of Type III - (Monocord, bonded finish)
Tex No.,
(g/km)
16-20
21-25
27-34
45-47
70-75
90-110
135-154

150-258
270-331
350-431
400-536
600-684

Government Ply
Letter size
00
1
A
1
AA
1
B
1
E
1
F
1
FF
1
Government
Number size
3
1
4
1
5
1
6
1
8
1

Breaking
Length per pound (yards)
strength, lbs.
min.
max
(min.)
1.8
23,901
27,000
2.8
16,351
23,900
4.1
13,301
16,350
6.0
8,001
13,300
9.0
5,201
8,000
11.8
3,851
5,200
17.5
2,151
3,850

1,701
1,301
1,001
851
600

2,150
1,700
1,300
1,000
850

27.0
36.0
45.0
54.0
72.0

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Elongation,
% (max.)
35
35
35
35
35
35
35

35
35
35
35
35

A-A-59826

3.2.4 Type IV thread. The Type IV thread shall be twisted, two-cord (ply) construction,
unbonded with a wax finish. Each of the individual yarns shall have an initial twist which meets
or exceeds the final TPI. The final twist shall be "s" and the thread shall be suitable for
simulated hand-sewing and shall conform the physical characteristics specified in Table IV when
tested as specified in Table VIII.
TABLE IV. Physical characteristics of Type IV - (Hand sewing twist, wax finish)
Tex No., Government
(g/km) Letter size
35-36
45

A
C

Ply
2
2

Length per pound (yards)


min.
max
13,001
8,901

14,600
13,000

Breaking
strength,
lbs. (min.)
3.5
5.7

Elongation,
% (max.)
35
35

3.2.5 Type V thread. The Type V thread shall be of a twisted, three-cord (ply) construction,
unbonded with a wax finish. Each individual ply shall have an initial twist in the opposite
direction to the final twist, and the initial twist shall meet or exceed the final TPI. The final
plied twist shall be suitable for hand sewing and shall conform the physical characteristics
specified in Table V when tested as specified in Table VIII.
Table V. Physical characteristics of Type V-(Buttonhole twist, hand sewing, waxed)
Tex No.,
(g/km)
180-191
150-160
132-135

Government
Number size
6
8
10

Ply
3
3
3

Length per pound (yards)


min.
max.
2,321
2,921
3,311

2,920
3,310
4,180

Breaking
strength,
lbs. (min.)
20.0
16.0
14.0

Elongation,
% (max.)
35
35
35

3.2.6 Type VI thread. The Type VI thread shall be multiple cord (ply) construction, soft finish.
Each of the individual plies shall have an initial twist in the opposite direction to the final twist,
and the initial twist shall meet or exceed the final TPI. The final plied twist shall be suitable
for machine sewing and shall conform the physical characteristics specified in Table VI when
tested as specified in Table VIII.
TABLE VI. Physical characteristics of Type VI- (Tailoring, twisted multiple cord, soft finish)
Tex No., Government
(g/km) Letter size
24
40
90-97

0
B
F

Breaking
Length per pound (yards)
strength, lbs.
min.
max.
(min.)
2 or 3 16,000
25,000
2.8
2 or 3 11,001
14,000
4.1
3
4,201
6,000
11.0
Ply

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Elongation,
% (max.)
35
35
35

A-A-59826

3.2.7 Type VII thread. The Type VII thread shall be multiple cord (ply) construction. Each of
the individual plies shall have an initial twist in the opposite direction to the final twist, and the
initial twist shall meet or exceed the final TPI. The final plied twist shall be suitable for multineedle quilting machines and shall conform the physical characteristics specified in Table VII
when tested as specified in Table VIII.
TABLE VII. Physical characteristics of Type VII- (Quilting thread, coreless cocoon bobbins and
top thread, twisted multiple cord, soft finish)
Tex No., Government
Letter size
(g/km)
18
24-27
35
50

00
A
AA
B

Ply
2
3
3
2

Final
twist TPI
(min.)
12.0
10.0
9.0
7.0

Length per pound


(yards)
min.
max.
24,781
33,040
16,521
24,780
12,391
16,520
8,851
12,390

Breaking
Elongation,
strength, lbs.
% (max.)
(min.)
1.8
33
2.8
33
4.1
33
6.0
33

3.3 End item examination. The threads for all Types shall conform to the physical
characteristics specified in Tables I, II, III, IV, V, VI, and VII, when tested in accordance with
the test methods listed in Table VIII.
TABLE VIII. Physical characteristics and end item tests
Characteristic

Fiber identification
Nylon
Melting point
472F (min)
Bright, continuous multifilament
Direction of twist-(Initial and final)
Tex Size
Twist (TPI) Individual and final
Number of plies
Length per pound
Breaking strength
Elongation
Colorfastness (as applicable)
Laundering (after 3 cycles)

Requirement
Test method
Paragraph,
Reference & Ratings
Paragraph - 3.0
ASTM D 276 or AATCC-20, 1/
Paragraph - 3.0

ASTM D 276 or AATCC-20, 1/

Paragraph -3.0
Paragraph -3.1
Paragraph -3.2
Paragraph -3.2
Paragraph -3.2
Paragraph -3.2
Paragraph -3.2
Paragraph -3.2
Paragraph -3.5
3-4

Visual
ASTM D 204
ASTM D 3823
ASTM D 204
Visual
ASTM D 1907
ASTM D 204, 2/
ASTM D 204, 2/
ASTM D 204
AATCC 61, Procedure 1A, 2, 3/
4/ 5/
AATCC-16 Opt 3, 6/
AATCC 132 5/
AATCC-15, 5/
AATCC-169 Opt 1, 6/

Light (after 40 hrs. or 170kJ)


3-4
Wet dry-cleaning
3-4
Perspiration
3-4
Weathering (after 80 hrs. or 340kJ)
3-4
1/ In case of dispute, the ASTM method prevails
2/ Except that five determinations shall be made per sample unit.
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A-A-59826

3/ The specimens shall be dried after each of the 3 laundering cycles.


4/ The color transfer cloth evaluation shall not apply. No appreciable change in shade or
loss of color of the tested specimen shall be visible when compared to the untested thread
retained.
5/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and
Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining.
6/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color
3.4 Knots. Thread size FF for all Tex sizes, and finer shall average not more than one thread
knot per 2 ounces, and thread size 3 for all Tex sizes and heavier shall average not more than
one thread-knot per 4 ounces. The thread shall average not more than one full thread knot or
splice per 1,000 yards.
3.5 Color. The color shall be as specified in the applicable end item specification or in the
contract or purchase order. The dyed thread shall conform to the applicable approved
shade standard. Colorfastness requirements for the thread are to be specified in keeping
with requirements for the basic material and end items using industry guidelines (see 7.7)
and in accordance with the colorfastness requirements specified in Table VIII.
3.6 Finish removal procedure. Before evaluation for shade matching and testing for
colorfastness, except for colorfastness to wet dry cleaning, the thread shall be wet dry cleaned in
accordance with AATCC-132. Excess solvent shall be removed by centrifuging or wringing.
The sample shall then be rinsed in distilled water at 120F to 160F and dried at a temperature
not exceeding 180F. The dried sample shall then be conditioned for a minimum of 4 hours
prior to evaluation for shade matching or colorfastness.
3.7 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the finished thread, after removal of
finish (see 3.6), shall match the standard sample when viewed using AATCC Evaluation
Procedure 9, Option A, with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color
temperature of 7500 + 200K, with illumination of 100 + 20 foot candles, and shall be a good
match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2856 + 200 K.
3.8 Finishing materials. The finished thread shall have no chemical finishes or treatments other
than those commonly used, i.e. water-repellent, etc, on commercial threads which have been
demonstrated to have no deleterious effects on the fiber, including effects of prolonged storage.
No finish or treatment shall be applied for the purpose of increasing breaking strength. There
shall be no noticeable wicking of the treatment on the thread to adjacent material when sewn.
Appropriate finishes shall be applied for bonding (Types II and III), and waxing (Types IV and
V). Types IV and V thread shall be waxed so that the thread shall have a smooth, dressed surface
suitable for hand-sewing. Class B thread shall have an approved (see 7.5.1.1) non-wicking finish
(see 3.8.1).
3.8.1 Non-wicking (Class B). The finished treated thread for Class B shall be tested for water
repellency in accordance with the vertical rise non-wicking procedure in either initial state or
accelerated laundered per end-item requirements. The Class B thread shall resist the wicking of
water for a period of not less than 6 hours when tested as specified in 3.8.1.1. For end-items
requiring accelerated laundering resistance, thread shall resist wicking of water for a period of
not less than 6 hours after 3 Launder-Ometer laundering cycles as specified in 3.8.1.2. The use
of compounds containing mercury in any form is prohibited.

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A-A-59826

3.8.1.1 Initial Non-wicking thread procedure. The test specimen shall consist of twenty-strand
skein of thread in one continuous 30-yard (27.4m) length made on a 54-inch (1.37m) periphery
skein reel or other suitable device for preparing the specimen. The skein shall be reeled under
enough tension to cause the strands in the skein to lie uniformly, side by side, on the reel. The
finishing end of the skein shall be tied to the starting end of the skein in such a manner that the
knot will not add additional length to the reel skein. The skein shall be hung over the crossbar of
the laboratory stand with the other end hanging over the vessel. The moveable crossbar shall rise
28 inches or more above the base. A nonferrous, 3/4 to 7/8 ounce (21 g to 25 g) weight shall be
placed in the lower catenary of the skein to keep it taut and straight. The skein shall be arranged
so that the strands are touching each other in flat ribbon form. The vessel shall be filled to a
depth of at least 5 inches (127 mm) with distilled water at room temperature, which has been
mixed with 0.05 percent Basic Blue 9 dye, color index 52015, salt and wetting agent free. A
piece of blotting paper approximately 1 inch (25 mm) square, shall be attached by means of a
paper clip or similar clamp to one full side (twenty strands) of the skein, 3 inches (76 mm) above
the lower catenary of the skein. The position of the crossbar shall be adjusted so that when the
skein is hung freely in the liquid, two inches of the skein will be immersed in the liquid and the
lower edge of the blotter is 1 inch (25 mm) above the liquid surface. The skein shall then be
slowly lowered into the dyebath and the time of entry shall be noted. Depending on the
dimensions of the vessel and the length of the crossbar, several specimens can be tested at the
same time in the same dyebath, by hanging the skeins sufficiently apart of the crossbar. The
skein shall be exposed for 6 hours. The blotter shall be examined for wetting or staining at least
once every hour. The test shall be terminated whenever staining or wetting of the blotter is
observed, within the 6- hour test.
3.8.1.2 Accelerated Laundering Procedure. Prior to testing the thread shall be laundered in
Launder-Ometer per AATCC 61, procedure 2A (120F) except use 10 steel balls with small
canister, 3 times with drying in between except as prepared below: The test specimen shall
consist of a twenty-strand skein of thread in one continuous 30-yard length made on a 54- inch
periphery skein reel. The skein shall be folded flat then twisted around its long axis for a total of
25 turns by use of a twist tester or other suitable device in the same direction as that of the final
ply twist of the thread. The two ends shall be brought together and the folded skein allowed to
back twist on itself. The ends shall be tied off to prevent untwisting during laundering. At the
end of the laundering period, the specimen shall be removed from the jar and rinsed thoroughly
in running water at a temperature of 104F + 9F and agitated occasionally during rinsing. Care
should be exercised to insure that all traces of detergent are removed. The specimen shall then
be extracted or wrung and oven dried at a temperature of 221F to 230F until thoroughly dry.
Repeat procedure two more times, undo the tied ends from the skein, untwist skein and conduct
procedure specified in 3.8.1.1.
3.9 Toxicity. The finished thread shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility
with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 3.9.1. Chemicals recognized by
the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.
3.9.1 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin
sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies
indicate the thread is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in

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A-A-59826

accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.9) can
be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 7.3).
3.10 Put-up. Unless otherwise specified, the thread shall be put-up on holders such as
commercial spools, cones, tubes or bobbins and shall be identified with weight and length as
specified in the contract or purchase order. The thread shall be wound around the specified
holder in one continuous length, so that each turn and layer is free of entanglement. The outside
ending of the thread shall be secured to prevent unwinding, loosening, or slippage during
handling, shipping, or storage.
3.10.1 Put-up and Bobbin Color Identification. Spools, cones, and tubes used for needle, looper
and bobbin thread shall be color coded in accordance with Table X to identify the thread size.
Bobbins may be colored with markers, other permanent means or stated color on storage box.
TABLE X Put-up and Bobbin Color Identification
Thread size 1/ Color ID/Pantone No. 2/, 3/
Thread size 1/
Color ID/Pantone No. 2/
00
White / 4/
FF
Dark Green / 348C
A
Pink / 176C
3
Grey / 7544C
AA
Black / 6C
4
Dark Blue/ 2728C
B
Opaque/ 7541C
5
Orange / 158 C
E
Yellow / 120C
6
Brown / 497C
F
Light Blue / 292C
8
Lime Green/360C
1/ These colors will be used for all Tex sizes that apply to these Government thread sizes.
2/ Pre-made bobbins may be colored with markers, other permanent means or stated color on
storage box.
3/ Based on Pantone Solid Color Chip Coated Book, Dated 2003 (see 7.1.6)
4/ No Pantone color number in White Premade (see 7.1.6)
3.11 Labeling. Each holder shall have a label, adhered securely so as to remain in place and be
clearly legible until all thread has been removed. The label shall be printed with the following
information length in yards, direction of twist, color, size (Tex. no. or ticket number), name of
thread manufacturer, weight, yards/pound and nomenclature specifying fiber and construction
type. Type and Class, stock number, date of manufacture (month and year) shall be on the label.
3.12 Workmanship. The finished thread shall conform to the quality of product established by
this document. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the contractor's own quality assurance
standards and the quality assurance standards defined by the technical data in the bid package.
4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered
materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal
Acquisition Regulation (FAR).

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A-A-59826

5. PRODUCT CONFORMANCE PROVISIONS.


5.1 Product Conformance. The products provided shall meet the salient characteristics of this
Commercial Item Description, conform to the producers own drawings, specifications,
standards, and quality assurance practices, and be the same product offered for sale in the
commercial marketplace. The government reserves the right to require proof of such
conformance.
6. PACKAGING.
6.1 Packaging. Preservation, packing, and marking shall be specified in the contract or order
(see 7.3).
7. NOTES.
7.1 Sources of documents.
7.1.1 Copies of government documents are available online at
http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, 700
Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.
7.1.2 AATCC Standards are available online at www.aatcc.org or from the American
Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park,
NC 27709-2215.
7.1.3 ASTM Standards are available online at www.astm.org or from ASTM
INTERNATIONAL, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, P.O. Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 194282959.
7.1.4 Federal Acquisition Regulations are available online at
http://acquisition.gov/far/index.html or by contacting the Superintendent of Documents at 202512-1800.
7.1.5 Principles and Methods of Toxicology (fourth edition), A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057
- 1060, 2001 is available online from http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/ or from Taylor and
Francis, 325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia PA 19106
7.1.6 Pantone Inc, World Headquarters, Carlstadt, NJ 07072-3098, (201) 935-5500
7.2 Standard samples, patterns and drawings.
7.2.1 Standard samples and pattern drawings, address the contracting activity issuing the
invitation for bids or request for proposal. Standard samples are also available at DSCP through
http://warfighter.dla.mil under tab Vendor Info then General Vendor Info then
Specifications/Pattern/Drawing/ Requests under Special Instructions provide all applicable
information to the solicitation/contract number.

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A-A-59826

7.3 Ordering data.


a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.
g.
h.

CID document number, title and revision.


Type, Class, size, direction of twist, and ply of thread required (see 2.1, 2.2, 3.1, and 3.2).
Color required (see 3.5).
Toxicity requirement (see 3.9).
Put-up required (see 3.10).
Quality assurance standards (see 3.12)
Product conformance provisions (see 5.1).
Packaging requirements (see 6.1).

7.4 Key words.


Machine
Shoe
7.5 Intended use. The threads are intended for use, as applicable, in items of clothing, equipage
and footwear, and in air delivery and safety equipment. Class B is used primarily for leather
combat boots (direct molded sole), gloves and the Modular Lightweight Load carrying
Equipment (MOLLE).
7.6. Restriction. Only Types I and II thread are normally authorized for use in parachutes
and other flight safety equipment.
7.7 Colorfastness guidelines. Normally, colorfastness requirements for thread are to be
specified in keeping with requirements for the basic material and end items as specified in
Table VIII and with the following as examples in Table XI.
TABLE XI Colorfastness guidelines

Use

Colorfastness properties

Thread for sewing clothing which is drycleaned.

Good fastness to wet dry-cleaning,


perspiration, and light.

Thread for sewing clothing which is


laundered.

Good fastness to laundering (after 3 cycles),


perspiration, and light.

Thread for sewing footwear.


Thread for sewing air delivery and safety
equipment.
Thread for sewing outside of hand-wear.

No colorfastness tests apply.


Good fastness to light and to laundering (after
3 cycles) or wet dry-cleaning as applicable.
Good fastness to laundering (after 3 cycles),
perspiration, dry-cleaning, and light.
No colorfastness tests apply.
Good fastness to weathering

Thread for sewing inside of hand-wear.


Thread for parachute and cargo.

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A-A-59826

MILITARY INTERESTS:
Custodians:
Army GL
Navy - NU
Air Force - 11

CIVIL AGENCY COORDINATING ACTIVITY:


GSA-FAS

Review Activities:

PREPARING ACTIVITY:

Army - MD, MI, EA


Navy-AS

DLA-CT

Project No. 8310-2009-002

NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this
document. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency
of the information above using the ASSIST Online database at http://assist.daps.dla.mil

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