AA59826
AA59826
AA59826
A-A-59826
03 March 2009
SUPERSEDING
V-T-295E
1 August 1985
COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION
THREAD, NYLON
The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this commercial item
description as a replacement for V-T-295 for all federal agencies.
1. SCOPE. This commercial item description covers nylon thread used for machine
and hand-sewing.
2. CLASSIFICATION. The thread shall be of the following Types and Classes. In
end item documents where neither Class designation "A" or "B" is indicated, the
requirements for Class "A" shall apply.
2.1 Type. Type I
Type II
Type III
Type IV
Type V
Type VI
Type VII
- General purpose
- Non-wicking (Type I or II)
Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Defense Supply
Center Philadelphia, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DSCP Standardization Team, 700
Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5096. Since contact information can change, you may
want to verify the currency of the address information using Acquisition Streamlining and
Standardization Information System (ASSIST) online database at http://assist.daps.dla.mil.
AMSC N/A
FSC 8310
A-A-59826
3.1 Twist direction. Unless otherwise specified, the direction of the final twist shall be "Z"
except that number sizes of Types I, II and VII threads when used for sole stitching of footwear,
or coreless bobbins and top threads for quilting may be "S" or "Z. The final twist of Type IV
shall be S.
3.2 Physical characteristics. The finished thread shall conform to the applicable requirements
for the specified Type, Tex no. (*Approximate size. True Tex size is measurement of gram
weight of 1000 meters of finished thread), within the stated approximate ranges below and
Government size (letter or number) set forth in Tables I through Table VII when tested as
specified in Table VIII.
3.2.1 Type I thread. The Type I thread shall be unbonded, plied thread with each individual
yarn having an initial twist in the opposite direction to the final twist, and the initial twist shall
meet or exceed the final twist per inch TPI and shall conform the physical characteristics
specified in Table I when tested as specified in Table VIII.
TABLE I. Physical characteristics of Type I (Twisted multiple cord, soft finish),
Tex No.
(g/km)
16-17
21-23
30-32
45-46
68-70
90-101
135-144
Government
Letter size
00
A
AA
B
E
F
FF
Ply
2
3
2 or 3
2 or 3
3
3 or 4
3
Final twist
TPI (min.)
12.0
10.0
9.0
7.0
6.0
5.5
5.0
Government
Number size
205-210
270-292
350-381
400-472
600-601
3
4
5
6
8
3
3
3
3
3
4.5
4.0
3.5
3.0
2.5
1,951
1,451
1,151
951
701
2,900
1,950
1,450
1,150
950
27.0
36.0
45.0
54.0
72.0
35
35
35
35
35
3.2.2 Type II thread. The Type II thread shall be a bonded, plied thread with each individual
yarn having an initial twist in the opposite direction to the final twist, and the initial twist shall
meet or exceed the final TPI and shall conform the physical characteristics specified in Table
II when tested as specified in Table VIII.
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A-A-59826
TABLE II. Physical characteristics of Type II (Twisted multiple cord, bonded finish)
Tex
No.,
Government
(g/km)
Letter size
16-19
00
21-25
A
30-36
AA
45-51
B
70-76
E
90-112
F
135-160
FF
210-268
3
270-325
4
350-426
5
400-526
6
600-684
8
Final
Ply twist TPI
(min.)
2
12.0
3
10.0
2 or 3
9.0
2 or 3
7.0
3
6.0
3 or 4
5.5
3
5.0
3
4.5
3
4.0
3
3.5
3
3.0
3
2.5
3.2.3 Type III thread. The Type III thread shall be a single ply construction, consisting of a
minimum of 17 filaments bonded together to form a smooth even monochord and the twist
shall be no more than 4 TPI and shall conform the physical characteristics specified in Table
III when tested as specified in Table VIII.
TABLE III. Physical characteristics of Type III - (Monocord, bonded finish)
Tex No.,
(g/km)
16-20
21-25
27-34
45-47
70-75
90-110
135-154
150-258
270-331
350-431
400-536
600-684
Government Ply
Letter size
00
1
A
1
AA
1
B
1
E
1
F
1
FF
1
Government
Number size
3
1
4
1
5
1
6
1
8
1
Breaking
Length per pound (yards)
strength, lbs.
min.
max
(min.)
1.8
23,901
27,000
2.8
16,351
23,900
4.1
13,301
16,350
6.0
8,001
13,300
9.0
5,201
8,000
11.8
3,851
5,200
17.5
2,151
3,850
1,701
1,301
1,001
851
600
2,150
1,700
1,300
1,000
850
27.0
36.0
45.0
54.0
72.0
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Elongation,
% (max.)
35
35
35
35
35
35
35
35
35
35
35
35
A-A-59826
3.2.4 Type IV thread. The Type IV thread shall be twisted, two-cord (ply) construction,
unbonded with a wax finish. Each of the individual yarns shall have an initial twist which meets
or exceeds the final TPI. The final twist shall be "s" and the thread shall be suitable for
simulated hand-sewing and shall conform the physical characteristics specified in Table IV when
tested as specified in Table VIII.
TABLE IV. Physical characteristics of Type IV - (Hand sewing twist, wax finish)
Tex No., Government
(g/km) Letter size
35-36
45
A
C
Ply
2
2
14,600
13,000
Breaking
strength,
lbs. (min.)
3.5
5.7
Elongation,
% (max.)
35
35
3.2.5 Type V thread. The Type V thread shall be of a twisted, three-cord (ply) construction,
unbonded with a wax finish. Each individual ply shall have an initial twist in the opposite
direction to the final twist, and the initial twist shall meet or exceed the final TPI. The final
plied twist shall be suitable for hand sewing and shall conform the physical characteristics
specified in Table V when tested as specified in Table VIII.
Table V. Physical characteristics of Type V-(Buttonhole twist, hand sewing, waxed)
Tex No.,
(g/km)
180-191
150-160
132-135
Government
Number size
6
8
10
Ply
3
3
3
2,920
3,310
4,180
Breaking
strength,
lbs. (min.)
20.0
16.0
14.0
Elongation,
% (max.)
35
35
35
3.2.6 Type VI thread. The Type VI thread shall be multiple cord (ply) construction, soft finish.
Each of the individual plies shall have an initial twist in the opposite direction to the final twist,
and the initial twist shall meet or exceed the final TPI. The final plied twist shall be suitable
for machine sewing and shall conform the physical characteristics specified in Table VI when
tested as specified in Table VIII.
TABLE VI. Physical characteristics of Type VI- (Tailoring, twisted multiple cord, soft finish)
Tex No., Government
(g/km) Letter size
24
40
90-97
0
B
F
Breaking
Length per pound (yards)
strength, lbs.
min.
max.
(min.)
2 or 3 16,000
25,000
2.8
2 or 3 11,001
14,000
4.1
3
4,201
6,000
11.0
Ply
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Elongation,
% (max.)
35
35
35
A-A-59826
3.2.7 Type VII thread. The Type VII thread shall be multiple cord (ply) construction. Each of
the individual plies shall have an initial twist in the opposite direction to the final twist, and the
initial twist shall meet or exceed the final TPI. The final plied twist shall be suitable for multineedle quilting machines and shall conform the physical characteristics specified in Table VII
when tested as specified in Table VIII.
TABLE VII. Physical characteristics of Type VII- (Quilting thread, coreless cocoon bobbins and
top thread, twisted multiple cord, soft finish)
Tex No., Government
Letter size
(g/km)
18
24-27
35
50
00
A
AA
B
Ply
2
3
3
2
Final
twist TPI
(min.)
12.0
10.0
9.0
7.0
Breaking
Elongation,
strength, lbs.
% (max.)
(min.)
1.8
33
2.8
33
4.1
33
6.0
33
3.3 End item examination. The threads for all Types shall conform to the physical
characteristics specified in Tables I, II, III, IV, V, VI, and VII, when tested in accordance with
the test methods listed in Table VIII.
TABLE VIII. Physical characteristics and end item tests
Characteristic
Fiber identification
Nylon
Melting point
472F (min)
Bright, continuous multifilament
Direction of twist-(Initial and final)
Tex Size
Twist (TPI) Individual and final
Number of plies
Length per pound
Breaking strength
Elongation
Colorfastness (as applicable)
Laundering (after 3 cycles)
Requirement
Test method
Paragraph,
Reference & Ratings
Paragraph - 3.0
ASTM D 276 or AATCC-20, 1/
Paragraph - 3.0
Paragraph -3.0
Paragraph -3.1
Paragraph -3.2
Paragraph -3.2
Paragraph -3.2
Paragraph -3.2
Paragraph -3.2
Paragraph -3.2
Paragraph -3.5
3-4
Visual
ASTM D 204
ASTM D 3823
ASTM D 204
Visual
ASTM D 1907
ASTM D 204, 2/
ASTM D 204, 2/
ASTM D 204
AATCC 61, Procedure 1A, 2, 3/
4/ 5/
AATCC-16 Opt 3, 6/
AATCC 132 5/
AATCC-15, 5/
AATCC-169 Opt 1, 6/
A-A-59826
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A-A-59826
3.8.1.1 Initial Non-wicking thread procedure. The test specimen shall consist of twenty-strand
skein of thread in one continuous 30-yard (27.4m) length made on a 54-inch (1.37m) periphery
skein reel or other suitable device for preparing the specimen. The skein shall be reeled under
enough tension to cause the strands in the skein to lie uniformly, side by side, on the reel. The
finishing end of the skein shall be tied to the starting end of the skein in such a manner that the
knot will not add additional length to the reel skein. The skein shall be hung over the crossbar of
the laboratory stand with the other end hanging over the vessel. The moveable crossbar shall rise
28 inches or more above the base. A nonferrous, 3/4 to 7/8 ounce (21 g to 25 g) weight shall be
placed in the lower catenary of the skein to keep it taut and straight. The skein shall be arranged
so that the strands are touching each other in flat ribbon form. The vessel shall be filled to a
depth of at least 5 inches (127 mm) with distilled water at room temperature, which has been
mixed with 0.05 percent Basic Blue 9 dye, color index 52015, salt and wetting agent free. A
piece of blotting paper approximately 1 inch (25 mm) square, shall be attached by means of a
paper clip or similar clamp to one full side (twenty strands) of the skein, 3 inches (76 mm) above
the lower catenary of the skein. The position of the crossbar shall be adjusted so that when the
skein is hung freely in the liquid, two inches of the skein will be immersed in the liquid and the
lower edge of the blotter is 1 inch (25 mm) above the liquid surface. The skein shall then be
slowly lowered into the dyebath and the time of entry shall be noted. Depending on the
dimensions of the vessel and the length of the crossbar, several specimens can be tested at the
same time in the same dyebath, by hanging the skeins sufficiently apart of the crossbar. The
skein shall be exposed for 6 hours. The blotter shall be examined for wetting or staining at least
once every hour. The test shall be terminated whenever staining or wetting of the blotter is
observed, within the 6- hour test.
3.8.1.2 Accelerated Laundering Procedure. Prior to testing the thread shall be laundered in
Launder-Ometer per AATCC 61, procedure 2A (120F) except use 10 steel balls with small
canister, 3 times with drying in between except as prepared below: The test specimen shall
consist of a twenty-strand skein of thread in one continuous 30-yard length made on a 54- inch
periphery skein reel. The skein shall be folded flat then twisted around its long axis for a total of
25 turns by use of a twist tester or other suitable device in the same direction as that of the final
ply twist of the thread. The two ends shall be brought together and the folded skein allowed to
back twist on itself. The ends shall be tied off to prevent untwisting during laundering. At the
end of the laundering period, the specimen shall be removed from the jar and rinsed thoroughly
in running water at a temperature of 104F + 9F and agitated occasionally during rinsing. Care
should be exercised to insure that all traces of detergent are removed. The specimen shall then
be extracted or wrung and oven dried at a temperature of 221F to 230F until thoroughly dry.
Repeat procedure two more times, undo the tied ends from the skein, untwist skein and conduct
procedure specified in 3.8.1.1.
3.9 Toxicity. The finished thread shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility
with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 3.9.1. Chemicals recognized by
the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.
3.9.1 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin
sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies
indicate the thread is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in
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A-A-59826
accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.9) can
be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 7.3).
3.10 Put-up. Unless otherwise specified, the thread shall be put-up on holders such as
commercial spools, cones, tubes or bobbins and shall be identified with weight and length as
specified in the contract or purchase order. The thread shall be wound around the specified
holder in one continuous length, so that each turn and layer is free of entanglement. The outside
ending of the thread shall be secured to prevent unwinding, loosening, or slippage during
handling, shipping, or storage.
3.10.1 Put-up and Bobbin Color Identification. Spools, cones, and tubes used for needle, looper
and bobbin thread shall be color coded in accordance with Table X to identify the thread size.
Bobbins may be colored with markers, other permanent means or stated color on storage box.
TABLE X Put-up and Bobbin Color Identification
Thread size 1/ Color ID/Pantone No. 2/, 3/
Thread size 1/
Color ID/Pantone No. 2/
00
White / 4/
FF
Dark Green / 348C
A
Pink / 176C
3
Grey / 7544C
AA
Black / 6C
4
Dark Blue/ 2728C
B
Opaque/ 7541C
5
Orange / 158 C
E
Yellow / 120C
6
Brown / 497C
F
Light Blue / 292C
8
Lime Green/360C
1/ These colors will be used for all Tex sizes that apply to these Government thread sizes.
2/ Pre-made bobbins may be colored with markers, other permanent means or stated color on
storage box.
3/ Based on Pantone Solid Color Chip Coated Book, Dated 2003 (see 7.1.6)
4/ No Pantone color number in White Premade (see 7.1.6)
3.11 Labeling. Each holder shall have a label, adhered securely so as to remain in place and be
clearly legible until all thread has been removed. The label shall be printed with the following
information length in yards, direction of twist, color, size (Tex. no. or ticket number), name of
thread manufacturer, weight, yards/pound and nomenclature specifying fiber and construction
type. Type and Class, stock number, date of manufacture (month and year) shall be on the label.
3.12 Workmanship. The finished thread shall conform to the quality of product established by
this document. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the contractor's own quality assurance
standards and the quality assurance standards defined by the technical data in the bid package.
4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered
materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal
Acquisition Regulation (FAR).
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A-A-59826
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A-A-59826
Use
Colorfastness properties
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A-A-59826
MILITARY INTERESTS:
Custodians:
Army GL
Navy - NU
Air Force - 11
Review Activities:
PREPARING ACTIVITY:
DLA-CT
NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this
document. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency
of the information above using the ASSIST Online database at http://assist.daps.dla.mil
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