Growing

in the Inland Northwest

&
Intermountain West
by Danny L. Barney
Strawberries
The author
Danny L. Barney, Extension Horticulture Specialist and
Superintendent of the University of Idahos Sandpoint
Research & Extension Center.
1999 University of Idaho
Contents
Selecting a site............................................... 1
Preparing your site ........................................ 3
Selecting cultivars......................................... 4
Planting, training, and first-year care............. 8
Planting .................................................. 8
Training ................................................ 10
First-year care........................................ 11
Yearly care ................................................... 11
Irrigation and fertilization ..................... 11
Weed control ........................................ 13
Managing pests and diseases ........................ 14
Pests ...................................................... 14
Diseases ................................................ 18
Harvesting and storing
your strawberries ................................... 22
Renovating June-bearing strawberries .......... 23
Protecting strawberry plants in winter ......... 24
Here is a crop beautifully suited
to the Inland Northwest and well into Idahos
bordering regions in Montana, Wyoming, and Utah.
Growing
Strawberries, one of the most adaptable fruit crops
in the world, are grown from the tropics to near the Arctic
Circle. Perennial favorites of home gardeners, they are also
grown for local commercial sales throughout the Inland
Northwest and Intermountain West. Besides their popular-
ity as fresh fruits, strawberries are used to create pastries,
jams, syrups, compotes, fruit leathers, and other food
products.
Strawberries are among the easiest fruits to raise. For home
production, strawberries are often grown in raised beds,
pyramids, decorative pots, and hanging baskets. Commer-
cially, strawberries are grown in flat or raised beds, often in
rotation with vegetable crops. Strawberries are an excellent
specialty crop for local markets. For more information on
the commercial potential for locally-grown strawberries,
refer to the readings list at the end of this publication.
Selecting a site
Although strawberries are highly adaptable, good site
selection is critical. Strawberries require full sun for consis-
tent production of high-quality fruit.
Many strawberry cultivars (cultivated varieties) are suscep-
tible to Verticillium wilt. This fungal disease can persist in
the soil for many years, even in the absence of susceptible
hosts. Verticillium is common on potatoes, tomatoes,
Strawberries
in the Inland Northwest & Intermountain West
1
eggplants, raspberries, blackberries, currants, gooseberries,
cherries and other stone fruits, and chrysanthemums. If
possible, avoid planting strawberries where these crops have
been grown within the past five years, and select strawberry
cultivars that are resistant to Verticillium wilt.
Lawns and other sodded areas can be infested with grubs
that damage strawberries. When planting into an area that
has been sodded, cultivate the planting area and grow a
rotation or green manure crop other than grass for one year
before planting strawberries.
Strawberries require full sun
for consistent production of
high-quality fruit.
Strawberries are adaptable to a wide range of soil types.
They perform best on well drained, sandy loams at least 12
inches deep, but most loam soils provide good results if
drainage is adequate. Heavy soils encourage the develop-
ment of root diseases. Strawberries are shallow-rooted, with
most of the roots in the top 12 inches of soil. Cultivars
used for fruit production do not tolerate droughty soils
without ample irrigation. Soils with pH values between 5.5
and 7.0 provide the best growth.
One way to ensure soil drainage and reduce frost problems
is to plant on a site that lies above surrounding areas.
Planting sites with slopes of about 2 percent provide
drainage without greatly increasing soil erosion.
Raised beds or ridges will improve soil drainage on flat
sites. Raised beds can be as simple as mounds of soil or may
be enclosed in untreated landscape timbers or stones in an
ornamental setting. For home production, raised beds
allow you to customize the soil with compost, peat moss,
2
sand, or other amendments (fig. 1). Raised beds warm up
and dry out quickly in the spring, giving an early start on
the season. Tractor-mounted implements are used to create
planting ridges for commercial fields (fig. 2).
Preparing your site
Eliminating weeds before planting strawberries is critically
important because eradicating weeds in an established
strawberry bed is very difficult. Quackgrass and other
perennial weeds that spread by underground stems (rhi-
zomes) are highly invasive and are the most serious weeds
in strawberries. Growing rotation or green manure crops
and mechanically cultivating the soil before planting
strawberries are standard weed control practices. Perennial
weeds can also be killed before planting strawberries by
applying a translocatable herbicide, such as glyphosate,
which kills both weed tops and roots.
Figure 1. Typical two-level raised bed for growing strawberries
in a home garden. The two-level system increases light
exposure compared with single-level beds and makes
managing the rows easier.
3
8 feet
4 feet
Untreated
landscape timbers
Pest control is another important preplanting consider-
ation, particularly in a previously sodded site. Some grow-
ers incorporate insecticides into soils where sod worms have
been a problem. Always follow label directions when
applying herbicides and other pesticides.
Selecting cultivars
Choosing strawberry cultivars adapted to your growing area
is important in creating a healthy and productive planting.
Make sure your selections are cold hardy in your region.
Some strawberry cultivars can tolerate winter temperatures
near -50
o
F, while others are killed at temperatures slightly
below freezing.
There are three types of strawberries: June-bearing, double-
cropping everbearing, and dayneutral. Table 1 lists recom-
mended strawberry cultivars.
June-bearers. These are among the most productive and
popular strawberries. They form flower buds in the fall and
bear one heavy crop the next spring or early summer. The
berries ripen over about three weeks, with the earliest
berries being the largest. Some cultivars begin ripening
three weeks earlier than others. June-bearing cultivars
include Benton, Honeyoye, Totem, and many others.
Double-cropping everbearers. Everbearers set flower buds
during the short days of autumn and again during the long
days of midsummer. Consequently, they bear two crops
each season, during the spring and late summer. Typically,
they produce a few fruits between the main crops.
Everbearers are popular because fruit production is spread
out over time. Yields, however, are lower than for June-
bearing or dayneutral cultivars. Ft. Laramie and Quinault
are popular everbearers. Ozark Beauty was once popular,
but is being replaced by the better-quality Tristar and
Tribute dayneutral cultivars.
4
14 to 18 inches
18 to 24 inches
10 inches
4 to 9
inches
18 inches
9 to 18 inches
Mother plants
Daughter plants
(up to 6 per mother plant)
Runners
12 to 18
inches
Figure 2. Strawberry planting systems.
Planting ridge
Matted row
Ribbon row
5
June-bearers
Expected yield: 0.5 to 1.0 pound per foot of row
during the second and third growing seasons
Fruiting year: Second
Spacing:
Matted row: 12 to 18 inches apart
in rows 36 to 48 inches apart
Ribbon row: 4 to 9 inches apart
in rows 36 inches apart
Double-cropping everbearers
Expected yield: 0.25 to 0.5 pound per foot of row
during the second and third growing seasons
Fruiting year: Second
Spacing:
Matted row: 12 to 18 inches apart
in rows 36 to 48 inches apart
Ribbon row: 4 to 9 inches apart
in rows 36 inches apart
Dayneutrals
Expected yield
Year 1: 0.25 to 0.75 pound per foot of row
Years 2-3: 0.5 to 1.5 pounds per foot of row
Fruiting year: First
Spacing:
Matted row: 9 inches apart
in rows 36 to 48 inches apart
Ribbon row: 4 to 9 inches apart
in rows 36 inches apart
6
Characteristics and requirements
for strawberries
Table 1. Recommended strawberry cultivars for the Inland Northwest and
Intermountain West.
Berry characteristics Disease resistance
Ripening Dessert Freezing Leaf Leaf Red Verticillium
Cultivar
1
Use
2
date
3
Size
4
Firmness quality
5
quality
5
scorch
6
spot
6
stele
6
wilt
6
June-bearers
Earliglow All 0 S Firm E E G P G G
Lester HG 6 L Firm E F G G G G
Honeoye
*
All 6 L Firm G G G G P P
Catskill HG 7 L Soft G F G P P E
Surecrop All 7 L Firm G G F F G E
Cavendish
*
All 7 VL Medium G G F F G F
Redchief PYO 7 L Firm E G G G G G
Scott All 8 L Firm E E G F G F
Allstar All 8 VL Firm E G G G E G
Guardian All 9 L Firm G F G F G G
Lateglow All 9 L Firm E E G P G G
Totem

All 9 L V. Firm G G U U F F
Glooscap All 10 L Firm G E G G P F
Micmac All 10 M-L Firm G G G G P P
Benton All 10 M Medium F G U U U G
Jewel All 10 L V. Firm E E G G P P
Blomidon All 12 L Firm G E G G P U
Shuksan All 12 VL Firm G E F P F F
Dayneutrals
Tristar All 2 M Firm E G G P G G
Tribute All 7 M-L V. Firm E G G G E E
Double-cropping everbearers
Fort Laramie
*
HG 4 L Medium E G U U U U
Quinault HG 7 M Soft G F G G G U
___________________________________________________________________________________________________
1
* = Especially cold hardy
2
All = Suitable for commercial production, U-pick, or home gardens
PYO = Suitable for U-pick or home gardens
HG = Best suited to home gardens
3
Approximate number of days after Earliglow ripens
4
Size: S = small; M = medium; L = large; VL = very large
5
Dessert and freezing quality: P = poor; F = fair; G = good; E = excellent
6
Disease resistance: P = poor; F = fair; G = good; E = excellent; U = unknown
7
Dayneutrals. These cultivars set flower buds regardless of
day length and bear fruit from spring through fall. In many
areas, dayneutrals crop similarly to everbearers, with two
main crops each year and a trickle of berries in between.
Dayneutrals develop few runners, so they are often planted
in ribbon rows. Tristar and Tribute are popular with north-
ern growers. Selva, Fern, Seascape, and Hecker are
dayneutral cultivars that are popular in other areas of the
country, but their hardiness and productivity in the Inland
Northwest and Intermountain West are largely untested.
Planting, training,
and first-year care
Planting
While it is easy to produce and transplant your own straw-
berry runner plants, the practice is not always cost effective.
Pests and diseases can quickly build up in home and
commercial plantings. For best results, buy nursery-grown
plants. Consider buying stock certified as virus-indexed,
which can yield 50 to 75 percent more fruit than virus-
infected plants.
Figure 3. Plant strawberries to the correct depth.
After firming the soil, and watering the plants,
the soil level should be halfway between the
roots and the top of the crown.
8
Too deep
Too shallow Correct
planting depth
Dormant strawberry plants (sometimes called crowns) are
usually sold bare root in bundles of 25. Place orders with
mail order nurseries in late fall or early winter and schedule
shipping for early to mid spring. Once the plants arrive,
keep them cool and moist, and plant them as soon as
possible after nighttime temperatures remain above 25
o
F. If
you cannot plant immediately, keep the plants refrigerated
but protected from freezing. If refrigeration is not available,
dig a V-shaped trench 6 inches deep, set the strawberries
into the trench, cover the roots with soil, and water the
plants. Replant into the garden or field as soon as possible.
Garden centers often sell strawberries in containers. Con-
tainerized strawberries can be planted spring through fall,
but the earlier they are planted, the earlier they will estab-
lish. Twenty-five plants will fill 100 square feet of planting
beds and produce about 25 quarts of berries during the
second and third growing seasons.
When setting dormant strawberry plants into the ground,
be careful of the planting depth (fig. 3). Use a hand trowel
or dibble to dig a hole large enough to hold the roots
vertically without crowding. Avoid spreading the roots
horizontally. Firm the plants in by hand. In larger commer-
cial fields, strawberries are usually set into the ground with
a tractor-mounted transplanter. Immediately after planting,
water the plants well.
Twenty-five plants will fill 100 square feet
of planting beds and produce about
25 quarts of berries during the second and third
growing seasons.
9
Training
Strawberries are usually planted in either matted rows or
ribbon rows (fig. 2). Matted rows are the easiest and most
economical to establish and maintain, and are used by most
home and small-scale commercial growers. Ribbon rows are
used in intensive cropping systems and can produce high
yields in a short time. Ribbon row training is best suited to
dayneutral cultivars, which develop few runners. Most
growers new to strawberries would be advised to start with
a matted row design. Both systems can be
used on flat ground, ridges, or in raised
beds.
Matted rows. To form a matted row, set
June-bearing and everbearing plants or
crowns (dormant, bare root plants)
12 to 18 inches apart in rows spaced
3 to 4 feet apart. Allow about six
runners to develop from each mother
plant. Arrange the runners by hand to
fill in the rows. When the rows have filled in, clip off new
runners that develop and remove runners that extend into
the alleys between rows.
Plant dayneutral cultivars about 9 inches apart in rows
spaced 3 to 4 feet apart. Go through the plots weekly and
remove all runners during the planting year. Allow
dayneutral cultivars to form matted rows during the second
and third growing seasons.
For all types of strawberries, keep matted rows no more
than 12 to 18 inches wide. In rows wider than 18 inches,
plants in the middle are unproductive and pest and disease
problems increase.
Ribbon rows. To create a ribbon row, set the plants 4 to 9
inches apart in rows. Throughout the life of the planting,
clip off all runners weekly during the growing season. Some
10
11
growers lay drip irrigation lines down the centers of the
rows and cover them with black or white plastic film to
control weeds. They then burn holes through the plastic
and plant the strawberry crowns through the holes. Mulch-
ing with clean straw or sawdust helps to control weeds and
maintains moisture without creating the disposal problems
of plastic mulches.
First-year care
During the year of planting, pinch off all flowers that
develop on June-bearing and everbearing strawberries.
Removing blossoms the first year helps ensure a healthy
and productive stand by encouraging crown, leaf, and root
development. Pinch off flowers that develop on dayneutral
strawberries until the first of August. These cultivars will
continue to set flower buds through the fall and can bear a
light first-year crop in areas with long growing seasons.
During the first growing season, fertilize the strawberries
according to table 2. Do not fertilize at the time of plant-
ing.
For all types of strawberries,
keep matted rows no more than
12 to 18 inches wide.
Yearly care
Irrigation and fertilization
Irrigate strawberries regularly to keep the soil evenly moist
but not waterlogged. If possible, place water directly at the
base of the plants using drip hoses, hand watering, or
irrigation furrows. If you use overhead sprinklers, water
early in the morning to allow the foliage and fruit to dry
before nightfall. Keeping the plants dry helps reduce
disease problems.
12
Table 2. Amount of fertilizer to apply to every 10 feet of 18-inch-wide
strawberry row.
Manure Commercial fertilizer
Cow Poultry
or horse or rabbit 10-10-10 21-0-0 36-0-0
(pounds) (pounds) (ounces) (ounces) (ounces)
June-bearers
Planting year
4 weeks after planting 8 2 0 0 0
6 weeks after planting 0 0 3 1.5 1
Late August 0 0 3 1.5 1
Second and subsequent years
April 6 - 12 1.5 - 3 0 0 0
July (after harvest) 0 0 8 4 2.5
Dayneutrals and double-cropping everbearers
Planting year
4 weeks after planting 6 - 12 1.5 - 3 0 0 0
0 0 1.5 - 2.5 0.75 -1.25 0.5 - 0.8
Second and third years
April 6 - 12 1.5 - 3 0 0 0
0 0 1.5 - 2.5 0.75 -1.25 0.5 - 0.8
Note: Numerical designations for commercial fertilizers refer to the respective percentages, by
weight, of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) in the fertilizer. 21-0-0 is
ammonium sulfate. 36-0-0 is ammonium nitrate. Cow and horse manure contain approxi-
mately 0.5% nitrogen. Poultry and rabbit manure contain approximately 1.8% nitrogen.
Manure releases nutrients slowly. Make only one application of manure each season, applying
it 4 weeks after planting and during the April of following years.
Beginning of every month,
May through September
Beginning of every month,
June through September
Strawberries require fertilization for good production (table
2). Most garden fertilizers work well, but do not use weed-
and-feed types that contain herbicides. Ammonium sulfate
(21-0-0) is the nitrogen fertilizer of choice on sites with
high pH, alkaline soils. Composted manures release nutri-
ents slowly and add organic matter to the soil. Fresh
manures, however, can cause salt buildup and damage
plants when applied too heavily.
If you use overhead sprinklers,
water early in the morning to allow the foliage
and fruit to dry before nightfall.
Weed control
Weed control is difficult in strawberry plantings, but is
absolutely essential for good yields of quality berries. For
home gardens, mulching and hand weeding are the meth-
ods of choice. They are also used for commercial plantings.
Apply 2 to 4 inches of clean straw or sawdust at the time of
planting to reduce weed problems. Pack the mulch around
and between the plants, but do not cover them. Ensure
daughter plants on the runners are in contact with the soil,
as they cannot root well through mulches.
Organic mulches are not without their drawbacks. They
provide habitats for mice that can damage strawberry
plants during the winter. During the summer, slugs thrive
under organic mulches. Baits and traps for slugs and mice
are recommended if you use organic mulches.
Plastic film is used to control weeds in some commercial
strawberry fields and can be used in home gardens. Use
nonporous plastic film, not weed-barrier fabrics. Straw-
berry daughter plants root on top of the porous fabrics,
making removal difficult. Black or white films control
13
weeds better than clear films and do not overheat the soil,
as clear films can. Plastic films are used only for ribbon row
plantings as they prevent daughter plants from rooting in
matted beds.
Fertilizing and irrigating plastic-covered rows create
difficulties. Using a drip irrigation line to apply water and
fertilizers along the center of the rows under the plastic is
usually the easiest and most effective method. Fruit rot
problems can be more severe with plastic than with straw
mulches. Water puddles on the plastic rather than running
through. If the water contains mold spores, raindrops
striking the plastic can bounce the spore-contaminated
water droplets onto the fruit.
Herbicides are available to control weeds in commercial
strawberry fields. Consult with your Cooperative Extension
System or pesticide supplier for herbicides registered in
your area. Always follow label directions.
Managing pests and diseases
Because pesticide regulations and registrations change
frequently, specific pesticide recommendations are not
included in this publication. For up-to-date information on
materials registered for pests and diseases in your area,
contact the Cooperative Extension System office in your
county. Always follow label directions.
Pests
Aphids. Shallot and strawberry aphids
cause problems for western strawberry
growers. These small, pale green to
greenish-brown insects are usually
found on new shoots and buds in the
crowns of the plants and on veins on
the undersides of the leaves. Unlike mites,
14
aphids usually remain still while a plant is being examined.
Feeding by aphids causes strawberry plants to become
stunted with crinkled and curled leaves. Heavy infestations
weaken the plants. Aphids also excrete honeydew, upon
which sooty mold can grow, making berries inedible.
Aphids usually appear in April or May and persist into
November. Besides the damage they cause by feeding,
aphids can transmit virus diseases. Beneficial insects, such
as lady beetles, can help control aphid populations.
Lygus bugs. Several species of insects called
lygus bugs or plant bugs attack straw-
berries. These pests are approximately
1
/4 inch long, oval, and rather flat-
tened. They are green or brown with
reddish-brown markings on their
wings. Lygus bugs fly or crawl away
rapidly when plants are disturbed and can
be difficult to find. They suck out seed con-
tents, causing deformed berries. One to two nymphs
(immature bugs) per plant can cause extensive damage.
Controlling weeds near strawberry plantings can help
reduce lygus populations. Avoid cutting or otherwise
disturbing alfalfa and weeds near your planting before or
during the strawberry blossom period. Doing so can force
the pests into your strawberries.
Spittlebugs. The meadow spittlebug overwinters in the egg
stage attached to leaf stems and leaves. Tiny yellow nymphs
hatch in April and secrete a white froth over their feeding
places on new growth. Nymphs suck juices from leaves and
fruit spurs causing these tissues to become distorted and
stunted. Injury results in reduced yields and inferior fruit.
Spittlebugs are easily controlled with insecticides, or can be
washed off plants with a hose.
15
Mites. Both cyclamen and spider mites can seriously
damage strawberries. These pests are
related to spiders and have eight legs.
Cyclamen mites are approximately
1
/100 inch in diameter, flat, lens-shaped,
and transparent. Cyclamen mites feed
on young folded leaves in the crown. Dam-
aged leaves emerge stunted, crinkled, and
malformed.
Spider mites are larger, about
1
/50 inch in diameter, and are
found on older leaves. Speckling or bronzing of leaves and
the presence of webs and eggs on the undersides of leaves
are indications of spider mites.
Pesticides are available for mites, but do not provide
complete control. Plant only healthy stock. Inspect plants
regularly and avoid destroying beneficial mites and insects
by following pesticide label recommendations. Organic
growers find insecticidal soaps and predatory mites useful
in controlling spider mites. Because of their small size and
protected location, cyclamen mites are more difficult to
control using organic methods.
Nematodes. Several nematodes damage strawberries,
including root knot, root lesion, and dagger nematodes.
Besides damaging the roots by feeding, some nematodes
carry virus diseases that infect strawberries.
To control nematodes and the viruses they
transmit, start with virus-indexed nursery
stock. Rotate strawberry beds to a new site every
three to four years. Plant rotation crops, such as
vegetables or green manures, but do not use red clover,
potatoes, tomatoes, or eggplants as rotation crops.
Red clover can harbor a virus-transmitting nematode, while
the others can carry Verticillium wilt. Some commercial
16
strawberry fields are periodically fumigated to kill nema-
todes and other pests.
Do not use red clover, potatoes, tomatoes,
or eggplants as rotation crops.
Leaftiers. Omnivorous leaftiers, also known as strawberry
fruitworms, overwinter as tiny, orange larvae in crevices of
rough-barked trees and are spread by early spring winds.
Mature larvae are
3
/4 inch long and light cream with tan
heads. They web and feed in growing plant tips and in
strawberry fruits as they ripen. Unlike closely related
leafrollers, omnivorous leaftiers cause serious damage to
plants and fruit. Leaftiers are common in vetch and wild
daisies. They can be controlled with pesticides or picked off
plants by hand.
Root weevils. Twenty or more species of root weevils attack
strawberries. Adult weevils are
1
/5 to
2
/5 of an inch long and
brown to black. They feed on leaves, causing characteristic
notches at the edges of the leaves but little serious damage.
Pinkish-white grubs (larvae),
1
/4 to
1
/2 inch long, feed on
roots and seriously damage or kill strawberry plants. Proper
identification of the pest and accurate timing of pesticide
applications are critical for successful control. Pesticides
and beneficial nematodes are used to control root weevils.
Slugs and snails. Slugs and snails thrive under moist
conditions and attack the fruits and leaves. They feed most
heavily during cloudy days and at night and leave easily
detected slime trails. Remove boards, paper, bricks, and
other debris that they hide under during the day. Keep
strawberry rows no more than 18 inches wide to reduce
humidity and improve light penetration.
Do not use organic mulches if slug
pressure is heavy. Irrigate early in the day
17
and avoid sprinkler irrigation, if possible, to
keep the foliage dry. Slug baits are commer-
cially available. Shallow containers filled with a
mixture of water and brewers yeast or beer can trap
slugs in gardens.
Birds. Ripe strawberries are highly attractive to birds,
which can cause serious damage to commercial and home
crops. Scare devices, such as bright Mylar
ribbons, hanging aluminum plates,
and rubber snakes are sometimes used
to frighten birds away. Birds are highly
adaptive, however, and are seldom deterred
for long. The most effective method of bird
control is to cover the strawberries with
bird netting, which is available from
garden centers. Anchor the edges of the net
to prevent the birds from walking under it.
For small beds, rigid covers can be constructed
from chicken wire and wooden frames.
Diseases
Gray mold. Botrytis, also known as gray mold, is a fungus
that infects ripe and nearly ripe strawberry fruits. Berries
infected with Botrytis soften and begin to rot, eventually
becoming covered with gray mold. The disease is greatly
aggravated by wet conditions. Use the plant and row
spacings recommended in this publication to encourage
rapid drying of the foliage after rain and irrigation. Avoid
sprinkler irrigation, if possible, or water early in the day.
Pick fruit at least every other day and refrigerate it quickly.
Remove rotted fruit from the strawberry rows. Clean straw
spread under the plants can reduce infections.
18
Leaf scorch. Leaf scorch is caused by a fungus that overwin-
ters on old, infected leaves. Small, dark-purple, irregular
spots form on the upper leaf surfaces. The spots do not
develop white centers as with leaf spot disease. When
numerous, the spots run together and the leaves appear to
be scorched. Infected plants are stunted. During spring
rains, spores from a few diseased plants can spread through
an entire planting. Cultural practices that limit gray mold
also help reduce leaf scorch problems.
Leaf spot. Leaf spot is caused by another fungus that
survives the winter on old, infected leaves. Dark red or
purplish spots form on leaves, gradually becoming grayish
or almost white. Fully developed spots are about
1
/8 inch in
diameter, with whitish centers and reddish margins. The
spots are scattered widely over the leaf surfaces and inter-
fere with leaf functions. Infections occur during moist
weather and are most severe in spring and fall. Follow the
cultural practices described for gray mold.
Rake out and remove dead leaves and debris in early spring
before new growth starts. Renovating June-bearing straw-
berries after harvest can reduce leaf spot problems. Fungi-
cides are registered to control leaf spot if the problem
becomes severe.
Powdery mildew. Powdery mildew causes the edges of
infected leaves to curl upward. Leaves are coated with a
grayish-white powdery mold and may turn purplish or red.
In irrigated fields, the fungus may also attack the fruit.
Follow the cultural practices described for gray mold. In
small plantings, remove spent leaves when renovating and
in early spring.
Red stele root rot. Red stele root rot is caused by soilborne
fungi (Phytophthora species), which may persist in fields for
many years. During winter and spring, the cores, or steles,
of diseased roots become pinkish-red, gradually turning
cinnamon brown and ultimately black. The outer cortex of
19
the roots remains white. Root symptoms can be difficult to
see after May. Infected plants decline, produce little new
growth, and may wilt and die. Leaves become bluish-green
and lack their normal glossiness.
Root rot is most often found on wet or poorly drained
soils. On heavy soils or where drainage is questionable,
grow strawberries on ridges, in raised beds, or in contain-
ers. Plant clean, high-quality nursery stock. Where space
allows, use a chisel plow or subsoiler to break up com-
pacted soil 18 to 20 inches deep between rows in late fall to
increase drainage. Fungicides are available to control red
stele, but preventative cultural methods are more effective.
Black root rot. Many different fungi, nematodes, and poor
soil conditions interact to cause a disorder called black root
rot. Symptoms include black discolorations on the roots
with the entire root often darkening, becoming unhealthy
in appearance, and lacking new growth. Leaves are small,
poorly colored, and wilt in hot weather. New growth is
sparse and many roots are completely rotted away. Infected
roots lack the red core discoloration typical of red stele root
rot.
Control black root rot by planting good quality nursery
stock on well-drained fertile soil adapted to strawberry
production. During planting, handle plants carefully to
prevent drying of the roots. Set plants at the proper depth.
Rotate your strawberry crop with grasses, grains, or veg-
etables. Do not plant strawberries on sites with a recent
history of black root rot.
Verticillium wilt. Verticillium is a fungal pathogen. In
strawberries, symptoms include wilting of individual
plants, often in patches throughout a planting. Older leaves
wilt and tend to curl up along the midvein. Infected plants
20
become stunted, dry, and flattened with small, yellowish
leaves. Brownish streaks occur in the vascular tissue of
crown roots or at the base of the petioles.
Avoid planting strawberries where tomatoes, potatoes,
peppers, eggplants, melons, cherries, raspberries, blackber-
ries, roses, or chrysanthemums have been grown within the
past five years. Select resistant cultivars and plant high-
quality, nursery-grown stock. Remove infected plants
together with adjacent plants. Do not replant in spots
where infections occurred. Keep your planting weed-free.
Soil fumigants are often used before planting in large
commercial fields to control Verticillium and other pests
and diseases.
Viruses. Tomato ringspot virus is spread by the dagger
nematodes and related species. The virus causes stunting
and sometimes kills infected plants.
Crinkle, mottle, mild yellow-edge, and vein banding
viruses commonly infect strawberry plants. They are
transmitted by the strawberry aphid, Chaetosiphon
fragaefolli. These diseases reduce vigor and yields. Symp-
toms include dwarfing, leaf cupping, and yellowing. Totem
is noted for resistance to aphid-transmitted viruses.
Tobacco streak virus and pallidosis disease infect strawberry
fields, but their methods of transmission are not known.
Tobacco streak causes loss of vigor and yield without
distinctive symptoms. Most popular strawberry cultivars in
the Pacific Northwest are susceptible to tobacco streak
virus. The pallidosis agent increases the severity of many
aphid-borne viruses. To control all viruses, purchase plants
certified as virus-indexed, control aphids and nematodes,
and avoid setting out new plantings next to old, virus-
infected ones.
21
Harvesting and storing
your strawberries
To ensure high fruit quality, harvest berries in early morn-
ing after the dew is off the ground. If the berries will be
stored more than a few hours, avoid picking on wet days or
when berries are wet from irrigation. Discard overripe or
damaged fruit. Remove damaged, overripe, and rotted fruit
from the rows to reduce fruit rot problems with later
berries.
After picking, cool the berries to 34
o
to 36
o
F
as quickly as possible.
Pick strawberries by pinching off the stems with your
thumb and forefinger, leaving the stem and cap attached to
the berry. This method reduces damage to
the fruit and increases shelf life.
Harvest at least every two days. Under
hot conditions, you may have to pick
every day. Collect the fruit in shallow
containers. Most commercial growers
use half-pint or pint baskets, with twelve
baskets held in a wooden or cardboard
flat.
After picking, cool the berries to 34
o
to 36
o
F as quickly as
possible. Even short delays in cooling the fruit can increase
fruit rots and decrease quality. For home use, place dry
strawberries into a refrigerator. Do not wash the berries
before refrigerating them unless you plan to use the fruit
within a few hours. Grower-picked strawberries from large,
commercial operations are often cooled by placing them
into forced-air tunnels inside walk-in coolers. Advise your
22
U-pick and farmers market customers to refrigerate their
fruit as quickly as possible to preserve fruit quality.
Picking berries when they are wet or cooling them with
water increases fruit rot. Handle the berries as gently and as
little as possible.
For freezing, rinse the berries, cut off the caps, and slice the
fruit into halves or strips. Freeze the sliced fruit in heavy-
duty plastic bags.
Under ideal conditions, fresh strawberries have a shelf life
of about seven days. Most commercial growers try to get
strawberries to their final consumers within 24 to 48 hours.
Renovating
June-bearing strawberries
Fields of June-bearing strawberries can be renovated each
year following harvest. This practice helps invigorate the
plants and reduces pest and disease problems. Renovation
involves removing the leaves, narrowing rows, and fertiliz-
ing. Commercial growers often apply herbicides when
renovating. Only June-bearing strawberries are renovated.
Dayneutral and everbearing strawberries are not.
Renovate one to two weeks after harvest in early to mid
July. If runner production has been sparse on cultivars that
normally runner heavily, renovate immediately after har-
vest.
Mowing is the preferred method of removing old foliage.
Set the mower low enough to cut off the old leaves, but
high enough so as not to damage the crowns.
Removing leaves from the planting can reduce insect and
disease damage. Most commercial growers do not remove
23
leaves, but they do till them into the soil, which also helps
to reduce insect and disease problems.
After mowing, use a rototiller or disk to cultivate alleyways
and to narrow the rows to their recommended widths (12-
18 inches for matted rows). Cultivate in one direction only
to avoid dislodging newly rooted runners in matted row
systems. Cultivate no more than 2 inches deep to reduce
the number of weed seeds you bring to the surface. Be
careful not to bury the crowns when cultivating. Fertilize
after cultivation (table 2).
Only June-bearing strawberries
are renovated.
Protecting strawberry plants
in winter
In late fall, irrigate heavily before the ground freezes, if
necessary, to protect against winter desiccation. After
several frosts below 28
o
F, mulch strawberries with 6 to 8
inches of wheat, rye, or barley straw to protect the plants
from cold temperatures and drying winds. Use straw that is
clean and free of grain and weed seeds. Long pine needles,
such as ponderosa pine, also make effective mulches. Avoid
using hay because most hays contain weed seeds. Also avoid
grass clippings, oat straw, and leaves from deciduous trees,
such as maple and oak, which pack down and mold during
the winter. In early spring, before strawberries show new
growth, rake the mulch into the alleys.
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Gardening Notes
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Gardening publications
from the University of Idaho
Strawberry Production: Overview (CIS 931) ...................... 50
Specialty Farming in Idaho: Is It for Me? (EXT 743) ...... $1.00
Specialty Farming in Idaho: Selecting a Site (EXT 744) .. $1.00
Berry Varieties for Idaho (EXT 739) ............................... $2.00
Insects and Mites Destructive to Berries (CIS 628) ............ 50
Diseases of Raspberries in Idaho (CIS 789) ........................ 35
Selecting Grape Cultivars and Planting Sites
in Idaho (CIS 1043) ................................................. $1.00
Growing Blueberries in Idaho (BUL 815)
Growing Raspberries and Blackberries in the Inland Northwest
and Intermountain West (BUL 812)
You can order these publications from the
University of Idaho Cooperative Extension System office
in your county or directly from
Agricultural Publications
University of Idaho
Moscow, ID 83844-2240
phone: (208) 885-7982
fax: (208) 885-4648
email: [email protected]
Your payment should include 50 postage for the first
publication and 25 for each additional publication. Idaho
residents add 5% sales tax.
For other University of Idaho publications,
check the Resources for Idaho web site at
http://info.ag.uidaho.edu
Issued in furtherance of cooperative Extension work in agriculture and home
economics, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S.
Department of Agriculture, LeRoy D. Luft, Director of Cooperative Extension
System, University of Idaho, Moscow, Idaho 83844. The University of Idaho
provides equal opportunity in education and employment on the basis of race,
color, religion, national origin, gender, age, disability, or status as a Vietnam-era
veteran, as required by state and federal laws.
BUL 810 Published May 1999 $2.50
here is a crop beautifully suited to the Inland Northwest and
well into Idahos bordering regions in Montana, Wyoming,
and Utah.
Growing Strawberries gives you the information you need to
plan, plant, and raise healthy strawberry plantings in a market
garden or backyard bed. Learn about cultivars youll never see
in a local supermarket, despite their surpassing flavor. Read
about plant and row spacing, fertilization requirements,
overwintering practices, and the simple, routine practices that
will keep your crop nearly pest free.
Author Danny L. Barney, horticulturist and superintendent at
the University of Idaho Sandpoint Research & Extension
Center, shares the wisdom he has accumulated in 11 years of
rigorously testing dozens of strawberry cultivars and the
techniques for growing them.
Did you know?
Just 25 well-tended plants will produce 25 quarts of
berries during their second and third growing seasons,
enough to satisfy your hankerings for strawberry jam,
strawberry shortcake, strawberry pie, and handfuls of
fresh strawberries for your breakfast cereal.
By growing a combination of June-bearing, double-
cropping, and dayneutral varieties you can enjoy berries
all season, from early summer through fall.
Strawberries keep best when refrigerated right after
harvest.
Market gardeners, home gardeners,