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BATTERY MYTHS BUSTED!

This article refers to 12V Deep Cycle Batteries the type commonly used in caravans,
campers and other low demand applications.

To understand more about 12V Deep Cycle Batteries CLICK HERE

These batteries are usually of the sealed type and are considered safest for caravans
and campers. Prices range from $250 - $380 for
100 amp hours (amh)

Keeping your batteries charged, without using
solar (i.e. using mains or generator power), is
best done with a modern smart charger (even off
a generator), and the Setec units found in Jayco
Campers are not the best solution for providing
full charge, especially in a short period of time.

The Setec charger (or Transformer) installed
with a Jayco Camper is very limited in its
capabilities and output.

On the other hand, a multi stage battery
charger has a maximum output of 14.2 to 14.6
Volts depending on battery construction. These chargers are also available in larger
current capacities than the Setec. You need voltages over 14 V to effectively charge a
battery in a timely manner.


Why You need a Charger:

By reading the user instructions of the Setec II, download them from
here you will note that the maximum voltage that is sustained for a
lengthy period is the VFloat which delivers 13.65 Volts. This is only
sustained for a maximum of 24 hours. Battery manufacturers
suggest a voltage of 13.8 V for maintenance float charging of
conventional lead acid batteries. This voltage is required to prevent
the self discharge of a fully charged battery, however it is too small to fully recharge a
depleted battery.

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After the 24 hours of VFloat (Voltage float level), the Setec drops back to a VStore
(voltage storage level) of 13.25 V. Industry standards suggest you need more than 13.2V
to get a battery to take any charge at all. Below that voltage all that happens to the
current is it heats up the battery - it adds nothing to the charge level. A charging
voltage of 13.8V will charge a battery to some extent, but it will not bring the capacity
up to much over 50% in a short time, or just 65% if you have plenty of time to wait.

The problems of charging with the Setec is similar to the problems experienced with
imported motor homes and 5th wheelers. Considering Jayco are the national distributor
for Setec, you should look elsewhere to find a suitable charging solution.

If you have an older Jayco, the inbuilt Setec transformer will be the older model. ( look
here for the instructions) The old ST-20 is limited to 5amp current at 13.65 V. Charging
current is limited to a maximum of 5amp (ST20) and 10A (for the later model ST35). In
both cases, there is definitely not enough for your battery charging needs.

Some other brands such as Coromal have no convertor, just a battery and charger. To
overcome the problem of inefficiently charging your 12V Deep Cycle battery, many have
opted to bypass the Setec and install something that works efficiently.
If you have the Setec ST-20 II, (the latest model) it will only put out 10amps into
the battery charge line. This is still insufficient to charge a battery. One of the
best solutions is to do the following:
Replace the Setec with a proper battery charger, install it and leave it
plugged into the power point the Setec used. That way it will keep your
battery in top order when you are at home and have power connected to
your van. If you need the battery charging in camp you can plug a
generator into the van and run everything and the battery will just get an
early charge. Same applies if you connect to a 240V external power
source.
What the Setec does do:
1. Prevents battery from over-discharging by cutting out power when charge drops
to certain level (deep cycle batteries should be kept from fully discharging to
prevent shortening their lifespan.)
2. Automatically switches between 240V and 12V systems in camper when power
sources are changed.
3. Provides charge to 12V batteries (albeit insufficient and with the potential to
overheat the battery if not turned off every few hours)
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Charging from your vehicle
Charging your van battery from your vehicle alternator is also a waste of time. Once
your motor is hot and the alternators temperature compensation has reduced the
charge voltage, you will not get much more voltage across your battery than the Setec
(10amps)
TIP: You can utilise the car connection cable by installing an inverter near your
battery and connecting it to the 12V cable. When you are travelling then take
your battery charger plug out of its power point and plug it into the inverter for a
decent charge. Always use a qualified auto electrician to carry out such work
on your camper.
Using an Anderson plug lead will not add much to your battery either when you are
driving. You will still need to recharge your van at home, unless you were able to
connect to 240V at a caravan park. Always carry an adapter lead to allow you to connect
the 15amp power lead from the van to a 10amp x 240V socket for charging anywhere
you find a standard electrical point.
Nevertheless, once you have charged your battery, you can maintain a trickle feed to
keep the battery from loosing too much charge while running your fridge off the 12 volt
power during travel.

Types of Chargers
Some battery chargers being 4 stage models incorporate an equalising stage and
therefore should not be used on your maintenance free batteries. What ever charger
you get, make sure the equalising stage is not in use when the maintenance free battery
setting is selected.
I would not use the C hristies type
chargers for regular maintenance of
deep cycle batteries. You have to
monitor them to prevent overcharging.
They do not automatically switch to a
float charge when the battery is fully
charged. They are however good for
getting most of the charge back into
automotive batteries in an emergency.
They would be good to use through a
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RanOx battery booster with the alternator switched to 14 V. This would control the
maximum charge rate and monitor the charging for you. At any rate the 14.6 V output is
too high for regular use on your battery and the 14.0 V too low.

When comparing charger costs bear in mind that a genuine three-stage battery charger
will bring a battery up close to 100% charge (from say 40%) in about half the time that a
conventional charger will take to reach 70%.

To get effective charging you will need to purchase a 3 stage charger. For example:
3.5A/hr charger would take 15hours to charge a 130a/hr battery up from half capacity.
These can be purchased from battery shops, Jaycar, Dick Smith etc. The 3 stage charger
will bring it right up to fully charged before each trip.

To understand more about 12V Deep Cycle Batteries CLICK HERE


Case Study:
A 100A/hr 12V deep cycle battery has been charging for 8 - 18 hours every few days for
3 days using the Setec ST-20II. A smart charger has not been used yet. The voltage
across the terminals was measured at 12.65V. Given that charging voltage has been
keeping it in the VFloat range (13.65 - the most you can get for more than 15 minutes)
by disconnecting it for more than 1 hour between charges, this is the best one can hope
for from this charger.
TIP: You should be aiming at best to get 95% fast charge, if the last 5% takes a bit
longer, it doesn't matter because that is the last 5% you charge at home,
whereas the first 40% is the important part - the part you do while you're on the
road.
So, your mission, should you choose to accept it:
Search for the right charger (high amperage with (applicable)
multi-stage (3) and not costing the earth!)




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Copyright 2009-2012 TasteTheAir.com All rights reserved
Tips to improve battery performance:

Batteries are rated in ampere-hours (Ah) and are designed to perform a specific
workload within an established period of time. Increasing either and/or both of
these will over-discharge the batteries and result in shortened life.

Limit discharging the batteries beyond 1.75 volts per cell - or 1.125 specifice
gravity per cell. 1.75 volts per cell corresponds to end-point voltages of 5.25 volts
for 6-volt batteries, 7 volts for 8-volt batteries and 10.5 volts for 2-volt batteries.

Batteries should always be recharged immediately following a complete
discharge period. Never allow batteries to remain in a fully discharged condition
otherwise permanent damage will result.

If daily or routine equipment operation results in only partial discharges (40% or
less) and specific gravities are 1.225 or higher, recharging may be deferred to the
next day, providing the workload is not expected to increase. Grenerally, user
experience will determine the frequency of charging service under these
circumstances.

Under normal circumstance the temperature of the battery electrolyte must not
exceed 110
o
F (43
o
C). If the battery is continuously operated at or above this
point the service life of the battery will be severely diminished. Under normal
conditions, battery electrolyte condition should range from 60
o
to 100
o
F (15
o
to
38
o
C). After charging, the battery should be allowed to cool-down or rest from 6
to 8 hours before the next discharge cycle begins.

If a battery is ever hot to the touch, allow it to cool to ambient temperature
before charging or discharging.

Keep battery connectors and cabling in good condition. When disconnecting the
battery connector from the equipment, pull on the connector - not the cable.
Damage to the connectors and/or cables will result in poor battery performance.


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