WARRANTY

Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship
at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case
shall Great Planes liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right
to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act
of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyers are not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, they are advised
to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL
FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS
AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY
AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
SP40P03 V1.1 Entire Contents Copyright 2000
P.O. Box 788 Urbana, IL 61801 (217) 398-8970
[email protected]
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
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PRECAUTIONS.................................................................2
INTRODUCTION...............................................................3
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE........................................3
Engine selection.............................................................3
REQUIRED ITEMS............................................................3
Suggested supplies & tools ...........................................3
DIE-CUT PATTERNS ........................................................4
Two-view ........................................................................5
Common abbreviations ..................................................6
Types of wood................................................................6
Metric conversions .........................................................6
Get ready to build ..........................................................6
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES...........................................7
Build the fin & rudder .....................................................7
Build the stabilizer and elevators ...................................8
BUILD THE WING.............................................................9
Build the center panel ....................................................9
Build the outer panels .................................................11
Join the wing panels ....................................................15
BUILD THE FUSELAGE.................................................16
Build the lower fuselage...............................................16
Install the tail gear........................................................20
Fit the wing & stab .......................................................20
FINISHING ......................................................................21
Final sanding................................................................21
Fuelproofing .................................................................21
Balance the airplane laterally.......................................21
Cover the model...........................................................22
Recommended covering sequence .............................22
FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS..................................23
Install the tank and throttle pushrod ............................23
Install the control surfaces ...........................................23
Install the landing gear.................................................24
Radio installation..........................................................24
Control surface throws .................................................25
Balance your model .....................................................26
PREFLIGHT ....................................................................26
Charge the batteries ....................................................26
Find a safe place to fly.................................................26
Ground check the model..............................................26
Range check your radio...............................................26
Engine safety precautions............................................27
AMA Safety Code ........................................................27
FLYING............................................................................27
Balance the propeller ....................................Back Cover
Takeoff ...........................................................Back Cover
Flight ..............................................................Back Cover
Landing..........................................................Back Cover
Your SlowPoke Sport 40 is not a toy, but rather a
sophisticated, working model that functions very much like an
actual airplane. Because of its realistic performance, the
SlowPoke Sport 40, if not assembled and operated correctly,
could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and
damage property.
To make your R/C modeling experience totally enjoyable,
we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable
help with assembly and during your first flights.Youll learn
faster and avoid risking your model before youre truly ready to
solo. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs
in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors.
You can also contact the national Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,500 chartered
clubs across the country. Through any one of them, instructor
training programs and insured newcomer training are available.
Contact the AMA at their address or toll-free phone number.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
(800) 435-9262
www.modelaircraft.org
1. Build the plane according to the plan and instructions. Do
not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an
unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the plan and
instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those
instances the plan and written instructions are correct.
2. Take time to build straight, true and strong.
3. Use an R/C radio system that is in first-class condition,
and a correctly sized engine and components (fuel tank,
wheels, etc.) throughout your building process.
4. You must properly install all components so that the model
operates properly on the ground and in the air.
5. You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to ensure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
nylon clevises or other connectors often and replace them if
they show signs of wear or fatigue.
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a
top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the
quality of your finished model depends on how you build
it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the
performance of your completed model, and no
representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.
PROTECT YOUR MODEL,YOURSELF
& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
2
Remember: Take your time and follow directions to end
up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to
build! If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if
you have any questions about building or flying this
airplane, please call us at:
(217) 398-8970
or e-mail us at:
[email protected].
If you are calling for replacement parts, please
reference the part numbers and the kit identification
number (stamped on the end of the carton) and have
them ready when calling.
Thank you for purchasing the Great Planes SlowPoke Sport
40 for your next project. We are sure that you will find a
great deal of modeling satisfaction while building and flying
this larger, sport version of the legendary Slow Poke.
Since its introduction, the original SlowPoke has been
successfully built and flown by modelers all over the world.
Now, the SlowPoke Sport 40 builds upon this tradition but
adds the dimension of larger size and ailerons for
aerobatic enjoyment.
The SlowPoke Sport 40 incorporates several improvements,
such as a redesigned wing for proportionately greater area
and faster assembly and independent servo controlled barn
door ailerons for simple installation and precise operation.
The SlowPoke also has a redesigned fuselage for optimum
placement of radio components for better balance and fewer
blocks for less carving. The end result is an excellent sport
model that can be flown as fun-fly stunter or as a docile
Sunday flyer that will land at walking speed or fly backwards
in a breeze. So now that you know how we have made a good
plane better, dust off your work bench, put a new blade in
your hobby knife and let's build a SlowPoke Sport 40!
4 Channel radio with 5 servos
Engine .32 - .46 2-stroke .48 - .52 4-stroke
Propeller (Top Flite

Power Point

)
10 oz. Fuel tank (Great Planes #GPMQ4104)
12" Medium fuel tubing (Great Planes #GPMQ4131)
(2) 3" Main wheels (Great Planes #GPMQ4225)
(1) 1" Tail wheel (Great Planes #GPMQ4241)
(4) 5/32" Wheel collars (Great Planes #GPMQ4306)
(2) 3/32" Wheel collars (Great Planes #GPMQ4302)
2-1/2" Spinner (Great Planes #GPMQ4520)
(3) Rolls covering film (Top Flite MonoKote

)
1/5 Scale pilot figure (optional - Williams Bros)
1/2" Latex Foam Rubber (Hobbico # HCAQ1050)
We recommended Great Planes Pro CA and Epoxy.
2 oz. CA (Thin) (GPMR6003)
2 oz. CA+(Medium) (GPMR6009)
1 oz. CA- (Thick) (GPMR6014)
CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
6-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6045)
30-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6047)
2 oz. Aliphatic Pro Wood Glue (GPMR6160)
Hand or electric drill
Drill bits: 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16",1/4", 17/32"
Sealing iron (Top Flite)
Heat gun (Top Flite)
Hobby saw (X-acto Razor Saw)
Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
#11 Knife blades
Razor plane (Master Airscrew

)(MASR1510)
Pliers
Screw drivers (Phillips and flat tip)
1-1/4" T-Pins (HCAR5150)
Straightedge with scale (HCAR0475)
Masking tape
Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)
Sanding block
Wax paper or Plan Protector (GPMR6167)
Lightweight Balsa Filler such as Hobbico

HobbyLite

(HCAR3401)
1/4-20 Tap and tap wrench (GPMR8105)
Isopropyl rubbing alcohol (70%)
Suggested Supplies & Tools
REQUIRED ITEMS
Engine selection
There are several engines that will work well in the
SlowPoke Sport 40 but for economy and excellent
performance we recommend a 2-stroke such as an O.S.

.40LA or SuperTigre

GS-40. In the 4-stroke category, an

O. S. .48 or .52 Surpass

are two engines well suited to this

model. Your choice of 2-stroke or 4-stroke engine will
determine the location of the throttle servo and pushrod exit.
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
INTRODUCTION
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Use this drawing or photocopy it
and use the copy to design your
trim scheme.
Elev = Elevator Fuse = Fuselage
LE = Leading Edge (front) LG = Landing Gear
Lt = Left Ply = Plywood
Rt = Right Stab = Stabilizer
TE = Trailing Edge (rear) " = Inches
1. Unroll the plan sheets. Reroll the plan sheets inside out
to make them lie flat.
2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figure out the
name of each part by comparing it with the plan and the
parts list included with this kit. Using a felt tip or ball point
pen, lightly write the part name or size on each piece to
avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns shown on
pages 4 and 5 to identify the die-cut parts and mark them
before removing them from the sheet. If any of the die-cut
parts are difficult to punch out, do not force them! Instead,
cut around the parts with a hobby knife. After punching out
the die-cut parts, use your Easy-Touch Sander or sanding
block to lightly dress the edges and to remove any
die-cutting irregularities.
3. When cutting sticks, always cut the longest pieces first
to avoid having to splice any pieces. Use the shorter pieces
to make cross bracing and filler parts. Save all leftover
materials. There are places where these short bits may
come in handy.
4. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into
groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, rudder and
stab (stabilizer).
Zipper top food storage bags are handy to store your
parts as you sort, identify and separate them into
sub-assemblies.
Get Ready to Build
1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm
1/8" = 3.2mm
5/32" = 4mm
3/16" = 4.8mm
1/4" = 6.4mm
3/8" = 9.5mm
1/2" = 12.7mm
5/8" = 15.9mm
3/4" = 19mm
1" = 25.4mm
2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm
6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
15" = 381mm
18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762mm
36" = 914.4mm
1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)
Metric Conversions
Types of Wood
Common Abbreviations
Great Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sanders are made from
lightweight extruded aluminum and can be found at most
hobby shops. They are available in five sizes:
5-1/2" (GPMR6169) for those tight, hard-to-reach spots;
11" (GPMR6170) for most general purpose sanding;
22" (GPMR6172), 33" (GPMR6174) and 44" (GPMR6176)
for long surfaces such as wing leading edges. The Easy-
Touch Adhesive-Backed Sandpaper comes in 2" x 12'
rolls of 80-grit (GPMR6180), 150-grit (GPMR6183) and
220-grit (GPMR6185) and an assortment of 5-1/2" long
strips (GPMR6189) for the short bar sander. The adhesive-
backed sandpaper is easy to apply and remove from your
sanding bar when its time for replacement.
On our workbench, we have three 11" Great Planes
Easy-Touch Bar Sanders, equipped with #80, #150
and #220-grit sandpaper. This setup is all that is required
for almost any sanding task. We also keep some
#320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper handy for finish sanding
before covering.
6
Work on a flat surface over the plan covered with wax paper
or Great Planes Plan Protector. Refer to the plan and
die-cut patterns on pages 4 and 5 to identify and position
the parts.
1. Locate two each of the 1/8" die-cut balsa rudder top
(RT), the two piece rudder trailing edge (RTE) and the
rudder base (RB) and glue each of the pairs together,
carefully aligning the pieces for a flush fit. Sand off any
irregularities or excess glue.
2. Using a 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" balsa stick, measure and cut
the two rudder leading edge sticks to match the plan. Glue
these two pieces together over the plan and pin them in
place. Test fit, then glue the RT, RTE and RB in position. Be
sure that all parts are aligned over the plan.
3. Using a 1/4" x 1/4" x 24" balsa stick, measure, cut and
glue all cross bracing for the rudder in position. Remove
the pins and sand both sides of the rudder smooth.
4. Measure and cut the leftover 1/4" x 1/2" balsa stick
from the rudder to start framing the fin to match the plan.
Use additional 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" balsa as required. When
satisfied with the fit, glue the pieces together and pin them
to the board. Using a 1/4" x 1/4" x 24" balsa stick, measure,
cut and glue all cross bracing for the fin in position.
Remove the pins and sand both sides of the fin smooth.
5. Draw a centerline on the leading edge of the rudder.
Sand the leading edge of the rudder to a V shape as
shown on the plan. Sand a radius on the leading edge of the
fin and the trailing edge of the rudder.
Hint: A Great Planes Easy-Touch Multi Sander makes both
of these sanding jobs a snap!
Build the Fin & Rudder
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES
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Work on a flat surface over the plan covered with wax paper
or Great Planes Plan Protector. Refer to the plan and
die-cut patterns on pages 4 and 5 to identify the parts.
1. Locate two each of the 1/8" die-cut balsa stab brace
(SB) and four each of the stab tips (ST), elevator tips
(ET) and elevator roots (ER). Glue two pieces of each 1/8"
part together to make 1/4" thick parts, carefully aligning the
pieces for a flush fit. You will end up with one stab forward
brace, two stab tips, two elevator tips and two elevator roots.
Sand off any irregularities or excess glue.
2. From a 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" balsa stick, measure and cut
a piece 24-3/8" long to make the stab trailing edge. Pin it
in position over the plan. From the 1/4" x 1/4" x 24"
basswood stick cut and glue a 23-3/8" TE doubler to the
forward edge of the balsa trailing edge.
3. Position and glue the 1/4" x 3" x 3-15/16" balsa stab
center and die-cut balsa stab forward brace (SB) in
position over the plan. Position and glue the two stab tips
(ST) to the trailing edge.
4. From 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" balsa measure, cut and glue the
stab leading edges in position. From 1/4" x 1/4" x 24" balsa
measure, cut and glue the cross bracing in position to
complete the stab assembly. Remove the stab from the board
and sand both sides smooth. Blend the leading edge at the
tips to match the plan. Sand a flat on the front of the leading
edge to match the plan. Leave the trailing edge square.
5. Pin the die-cut balsa elevator tip (ET) and elevator
root (ER) in position over the plan. From a 1/4" x 5/8" x 30"
stick, measure, cut and pin the elevator leading edge and
trailing edge in position. When satisfied with the fit, glue the
parts together.
6. From leftover 1/4" x 1/4" balsa, install the elevator
cross bracing as shown on the plan. Remove the elevator
from the board and sand both sides smooth.
7. Go to step 5 and build a second elevator to match the first.
Hint: Cover first elevator with wax paper or Plan Protector
then build an identical one right on top of the first!
8. Pin the Stab to the board and then align both elevators
along its trailing edge, flush at the tips. Be sure your elevators
are positioned correctly with the roots to the center of the
stab. Pin the elevators in position, then using the elevator
joiner wire as a guide, accurately mark the location of the
torque arms. Remove the elevators from the board.
Build the Stabilizer & Elevators
8
9. Using your marks as a guide, carefully drill a 1/8"
diameter hole into each elevators leading edge, approximately
3/4" deep.
10. Cut a 1/8" deep groove from the elevator root to the
hole you just drilled. Hint: This can be easily done using a
piece of sharpened 1/8" brass tubing or by using a Great
Planes Groove Tube.
11. Insert the elevator joiner wire into the elevators and
check the combined parts for flatness and also that their
leading edges are straight. Carefully bend the joiner wire as
needed to obtain proper alignment. Check that the overall
length of the elevators matches the length of the stab. Once
satisfied with the alignment and fit, remove the joiner wire,
noting which end goes where. Roughen both torque arms
with coarse sandpaper or a file.
12. Round off each elevators trailing edge and the stab
leading edge. Draw a centerline on their leading edges,
then sand both to a V as shown on the plan.
13. Pack the joiner wire hole in only one elevator with
6-minute epoxy, then insert the joiner wire completely.
Without using any epoxy on the other elevator, slide it
onto the joiner wire and once again check for alignment with
a straightedge. Once the epoxy has cured, clean up the
leading edge with medium sandpaper and set both
elevators aside. Note: You will glue the other half of the
joiner wire in position during final assembly, after the model
is covered, so dont get ahead of yourself just yet.
Well that was pretty painless wasnt it? The tail feathers are
done and now we can move on to the bigger stuff. Clean off
your bench, cover the wing plan with wax paper or Plan
Protector and let's get going on the center section of the wing.
NOTE: The wing panels are built right-side up over
the plan.
Work on a flat surface over the plan covered with wax paper
or Great Planes Plan Protector. Refer to the plan and
die-cut patterns on pages 4 and 5 to identify and position
the parts.
1. Locate one 1/8" die-cut balsa W-1 rib, two 1/8" die-cut
ply wing plug doublers (PD) and two 3/32" die-cut balsa
sheeting supports (SS). Use medium CA to glue one wing
plug doubler to each side of the W-1 rib, aligned with the
forward end. Glue one 3/32" sheeting support to each side
of the plug doublers, flush with the bottom edge and LE.
2. Cut four 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets into twelve 8-5/8"
long pieces. True up the edges. Refer to the Expert Tip that
follows, then edge glue six pieces together to make the
bottom skin and six to make the top skin. The skins will
measure roughly 8-5/8" x 18". Trim one skin to 17-1/8". This
will be used on the bottom of the center panel.
CA is much harder than balsa, so when you sand edge
glued sheets you will usually end up with a ridge along
the joint. To avoid this problem the Great Planes Model
Shop team have reverted to using ordinary wood glue for
this application. We prefer Wood Glue as it sets quickly, is
water resistant and sands easily. We put a blob of the glue
on a sheet of wax paper, then apply it to the edge of the
wood with a finger-tip. After joining the sheets, wipe off
any excess with a tissue, then use a couple of strips of
masking tape to hold the sheets together while the glue
sets. Sand the joint by using a sanding block and fresh
220-grit sandpaper. Work the block in a circular motion
across the joint until smooth.
Build the Center Panel
BUILD THE WING
9
3. Pin the 17-1/8" skin over your protected plan. Use the
tic marks on the plan to draw the location of the ribs and
spar on the surface of the balsa skin.
4. Locate two 1/2" x 3/8" x 36" balsa main spars. Cut one
8-5/8" piece from each stick to use for the center section
main spars. Cut four 1/4" x 1/4" x 8-5/8" auxiliary spars from
two 24" sticks. Without using glue, pin the bottom 8-5/8"
main spar onto the sheeting where marked. Lay the two
1/4" x 1/4" auxiliary spars in position.
5. From a 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" balsa stick cut two 8-5/8" aft
auxiliary spars. Lay one of these in position.
6. Without using glue, position the W-1 rib on the spars
and along the W-1 reference line. The forward edge of the
W-1 rib should be 1/16" behind the forward edge of the
sheeting to allow for the sub-leading edge. Position the W-2
ribs over the spars and aligned on the marks you made.
When everything is aligned, wick thin CA into all joints and
under the spars. Use a builders square or drafting
triangle to be sure all ribs are vertical.
7. Install all of the top spars and glue them in place while
checking that the ribs remained vertical.
8. From two 1/16" x 3/4" x 36"
balsa sub leading edges cut a
piece 4-3/8" long from each.
Glue this piece to the forward
edges of the ribs (save the
remaining pieces for the wing
panels). Sand the top edge of
this strip to match the contour of
the airfoil on top of the wing.
9. Use the 1/2" x 2-1/2" x 9" balsa block to make a filler
between the W-1 and W-2 ribs at the aft edge of the panel
to support the wing bolts. The block needs to be carved to
match the ribs. The easiest way to shape the blocks is with
a long blade hobby knife followed by a power sander.
Perform the shaping before you glue the fillers in position.
10. Sand everything flush with the outer edges of the
W-2 rib. Measure and mark a line 1/16" on each side of the
spar on the outer side of the W-2 ribs. Carefully cut away the
balsa on the inside of those lines.
11. Test fit the wing joiners in position on both sides of the
main spars. Be sure the joiners are flat on the bottom
sheeting and that the square inboard ends are against W-1.
When satisfied with the fit, use 30-minute epoxy to glue all
four joiners to the spars on both sides of the wing panel.
10
12. After the epoxy has cured, measure and mark the
location of the wing plug on the top skin sheeting (that you
prepared in step 2). Cut an opening to allow the sheeting to
fit around the wing plug. When satisfied with the fit, glue the
skin in place.
Hint: We have found that using Aliphatic Resin (wood glue)
works well for gluing top skins.
13. Trim the sheeting to size and sand all edges smooth.
Carefully cut two servo lead access holes in the top of the
wing panel at the location shown on the plan.
14. Cut one 4-3/8" length from two 3/8"x 7/8" x 30" balsa
LE sticks. The remaining 25-5/8" lengths will be used for
the outer panel LE. Glue both of these short pieces to the
LE of the center panel, centered on the wing plug and flush
with the bottom edge. With reference to the plan, shape the
LE using a razor plane, hobby knife and sanding bar to
blend it with the airfoil.
Work on a flat surface over the plan covered with wax paper or
Great Planes Plan Protector. Refer to the die-cut patterns on
pages 4 and 5 and the plan to identify and position the parts.
1. Locate four 3/32" die-cut balsa W-3 ribs and six 1/8"
die-cut ply W-3A landing gear rail doublers (LGD). Using
thick CA, glue a doubler to both sides of only two ribs,
making sure the auxiliary spar notches are aligned. Glue a
doubler to the left side of one remaining rib and to the right
side of the other rib, aligning them in the same manner.
2. Use a hobby saw to carefully cut away the balsa from
the landing gear rail notch. Test fit a landing gear rail in
position. It should be a snug fit. If necessary, the notch may
be enlarged with a sanding block.
3. Trim a sheet of 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa to 2-1/2" x
23-1/2". Pin this sheet to the leading edge of the wing,
aligned with the rear edge of the forward auxiliary spar and
the root of the panel. The forward edge and tip end of the
sheet will be slightly oversized to allow for trimming later.
Glue a 1/4" x 1/4" x 24" balsa stick to the top of the sheet,
flush with the rear edge and flush with the root end.
4. Locate one 1/2" x 3/8" x 27" balsa main spar (left
over from the center section assembly) and lay it in position
Build the Outer Panels
11
over the plan. Place a 1/4" x 1/4" x 24" auxiliary spar and a
1/8" x 1/4" x 24" rear spar in position as well. Without using
any glue, position a W-3 rib (with the single doubler to the
inside of the panel) onto the spars and LE sheeting. Add
another W-3 rib (without any doublers) to the spars at the tip
end of the panel.
5. Pin the two ribs and spars in position. Still without
using glue, add the W-3 rib (with both doublers), two plain
W-3 ribs and two W-4 ribs.
6. From a 1/16" x 3" x 12" balsa sheet cut two 12" strips
1-3/8" wide. Save the second one for the other wing. Slide
one of the strips under the trailing edge of the panel. The
strip should butt against the forward edge of the notch in the
W-3 ribs. Pin it in position. Trim the outboard end flush with
W-3. Pin the cut off piece under the outboard W-3.
7. Still without using any glue, install the 1/4" x 1/4" x
30" top auxiliary spars, 1/2" x 3/8" x 36" main spar and 1/8"
x 1/4" x 30" aft spar. Do not trim the spars at the tip end!
Allow them to protrude past the last rib.
8. Starting with the W-3 rib with two doublers (not the
root rib), glue all ribs (except the root rib) in position with
thin CA. Work toward the tip, checking that each rib is
vertical with a builders square or triangle.
9. Position the 1/8" die-cut ply dihedral gauge (DG)
against the inboard face of the root rib and angle the rib
to match the angle of the gauge. Check that the rib is
straight (chordwise) with a straightedge. Once satisfied that
the angle is correct along the length of the rib, glue it in
place with thin CA. Check your work to be sure everything
is properly glued.
10. Glue the two pieces of the 3/32" die-cut balsa wing
tip (W5A AND W5B) together and sand the joint smooth.
Slide the tip over the spars and tilt it up to fit against the top
spars. When satisfied with the fit, glue the tip in place. All of
the spars may now be roughly trimmed to size; sanding will
be done later.
11. From 1/16" x 3/4" balsa sub leading edge stock cut
a 24-1/2" long piece. Glue this piece to the LE of all ribs.
Sand the top edge of the sub leading edge to match the
angle of the airfoil.
12
12. Poke a T-pin through the bottom LE sheeting at the
four corners of the landing gear rail notches so you will be
able to locate them during the next step. Remove the panel
from the board.
13. Using the pin pricks for reference, mark and cut out
the sheeting where the landing gear rail will fit. Use
6-minute epoxy to glue the landing gear rail and the 3/4" x
9/16" x 1/2" torque block in position to the inside of the
W-3 rib with the single doubler. Clamp the torque block in
position until the epoxy has cured. Drill a 5/32" hole through
the landing gear rail and the torque block 1/2" from the
inboard edge. Keep the drill bit vertical.
14. Sand the protruding spars at the tip and root of the
wing flush with their respective flat surfaces. Replace the
panel on the board, pinning it in a few places to hold it flat.
15. Use thick CA to glue a sheet of 1/16" x 3" x 30"
balsa to the top leading edge of the wing panel from the root
end, extending over the tip. The sheet should fit against the
rear edge of the top auxiliary spar. Once the CA has cured,
trim and sand the LE, root and tip sheeting flush with their
respective surfaces.
16. From a 3/16" x 1" x 30" balsa stick, measure, cut
and fit a TE spar for the aileron pocket. The cut piece will be
approximately 13-3/8" long. Glue it to the two TE spars and
W-3 ribs. Trim the 3/16" TE spar flush with the aft auxiliary
spars. Using the leftover piece of the 3/16" x 1" stick, cut a
second piece that will be used as the aileron LE. This piece
needs to be about 3/32" under size to allow for the aileron
gap at each end.
17. Center the aileron LE in the aileron pocket and pin
it to the TE of the wing panel. Center the 3/32" die-cut balsa
aileron base (AB) between the W-3 ribs (with the horn
cut-out toward the LE and root) and pin it flat on the board.
Glue it to the LE.
13
18. Glue the 3/32" die-cut balsa aileron ribs (W6) in
position as shown on the plan. Try to avoid letting any parts
stick to the wing panel. Remove the aileron from the board.
19. Remove about 1/8" of the balsa aileron LE edge at
the horn cut-out to allow the ply horn plate to be recessed
into the aileron. Glue the 1/8 die-cut ply horn plate (HP)
into the notch.
20. Turn the aileron over and glue a piece of 3/32" x
3/4" x 1-1/2" leftover balsa over the top of the horn plate,
being sure to cover the area as shown in the photo.
21. Place the aileron back in position in the wing, flat
on the board. Shape the top of the aileron LE to match the
wing TE.
22. Using the plan for reference, measure, cut and glue
leftover pieces of 1/4" x 1/4" x 1-1/2" balsa stick to the inside
of the wing TE and aileron LE to provide more surface area
for the hinge slots. Be sure the sticks are centered vertically.
Bevel and hinge the ailerons the same as you did the elevator
and rudder.
23. Locate a 1/8" die-cut ply aileron servo tray (ST).
IMPORTANT: If you will be using mini servos, only punch
out the forward section of the servo tray, then wick thin CA
into the remaining seams. For standard servos, remove the
three center pieces, then glue the two servo doublers to
each end of the servo opening. The doublers must face
toward the bottom of the wing. Glue the aileron servo tray
into the notch in the W-3 rib and also to the spar. Apply a
fillet of thick CA to the joint between the tray and the rib.
14
24. Using 1/4" x 1/2" balsa left over from the tail, build
a "covering pocket" around the servo.
25. Locate a 3/8" x 7/8" x 25-5/8" balsa LE stick left over
from the center section assembly. Glue this stick to the sub
leading edge, flush with the bottom edge and root end. With
reference to the plan, shape the LE using a razor plane,
hobby knife and sanding bar to blend it with the airfoil.
26. From 3/32" x 3" x 36" balsa sheet, measure, cut and
glue vertical grain shear webs to fit the two locations shown
on the plan.
27. Glue leftover 1/4" x 1/4" balsa to both sides of the
1/8" die-cut ply wing tip supports (TS).
28. Mark a line 1/16" away from each side of the main
spars on the root rib. Carefully cut the root rib to allow the
wing joiners to pass through. Without gluing, test fit the
outer and center sections together. Make any adjustments
as necessary for a good fit. We will join them after the other
panel is built.
29. Now is the time to clean up your mess and build the
other wing panel just like the first one, only over the other
wing panel plan.
1. Double check that both wing panels fit with the center
section properly and that the mating ribs fit well without any
undue gaps between them. Sand as needed for a good fit.
2. Mix about ounce of 30-minute epoxy. Working over
wax paper or Plan Protector, coat the inside surfaces of the
1/16" die-cut ply wing joiners (WJ), one wing panel and the
mating surfaces of the root ribs with epoxy. Slide the panels
together and raise the tip with the wing tip support. Clamp
Join the Wing Panels
15
the parts together and pin the LE and TE in alignment.
Repeat this operation for the other wing tip. Weight the
center section down flat on the board and recheck all joints.
Let the wing assembly fully cure before moving it. Once the
epoxy has cured, sand all joints smooth.
3. Locate one of the 1/8" die-cut ply wing bolt plates (BP).
Sand a bevel on one long side and both short ends. Measure
and mark a centerline 2-5/8" from one end. Measure and
mark a front to rear centerline on the bottom of the wing
center panel. With reference to the lines you just drew, center
and glue the wing bolt plate to the bottom of the wing with the
unbeveled edge flush with the TE of the wing.
Well, you are more than half way through the framing
stage, so clean up your workbench, have a soda and lets
build the fuse.
NOTE: The fuse is built upside-down over the plan. The
plan sheet may be cut apart if space is a problem.
1. Cover the side view of the fuse plan with wax paper or
Plan Protector.
2. Position and pin a 1/8" die-cut ply fuse side (FS) over
the plan. Pin the 1/8" die-cut balsa stab saddle (SS) over
the plan at the aft end of the fuse. With reference to the
plan, cut a 1/8" x 1/2" x 36" balsa stick to make the top and
bottom longerons. Glue these sticks to the forward fuse
side and the stab saddle. Cut a short piece of leftover 1/8"
x 1/2" balsa stick to fit between the longerons at the rear of
the fuse aft of the stab saddle. Make a second fuse side to
match this one. Sand them smooth.
3. Position the 1/8" die-cut ply former F-5 in the fuse side.
DO NOT GLUE. Use F-5 to locate the rear end of the
die-cut 1/8" ply fuse doubler (FD). Glue the doubler in
place. Repeat for the other fuse side. NOTE: Be sure to
build a left and a right fuse side.
4. Cover the bottom view of the plan with wax paper or
Plan Protector. Position the 1/8 die-cut ply forward fuse top
(FFT) over the plan, being careful to align the engine
mount area exactly to the plan. If this piece is not correctly
placed you will build in the wrong engine thrust angle. As we
are building the fuse upside down, you should be able to
see a 3 degree left thrust angle to the engine mount. Pin the
fuse top in position.
5. Align and glue (use 6-minute epoxy) the 1/8" die-cut ply
engine mount doubler (EMD) to the surface of the fuse top
that is facing up.
6. Glue both halves of the 1/8" die-cut balsa aft fuse top
(AFT) together. Position this assembly over the plan and
glue it to the forward fuse top. Pin it in position.
Build the Lower Fuselage
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
16
7. Locate 1/8" die-cut ply formers F2 and F2A. Glue them
together with thick CA.
8. Install the 1/8" die-cut ply formers F1 and F6 in their
respective slots in the fuse top. Glue them in position with
thin CA.
9. Install 1/8" die-cut ply formers F4, F5 at the forward
edge of their respective notches and F3 at the rear of its
notch. Square and glue them to the fuse top.
10. Align one of the fuse sides with F1 with the wing
saddle pointing up. Test fit the side along the length of the
fuse. When satisfied with the fit, tack glue it in place. Repeat
this procedure with the other fuse side.
11. Insert the F2/2A former into the notches in the fuse
sides with the doubler facing the nose of the fuse.
12. Slide the 1/8" die-cut balsa stab base (SB) into
position at the rear of the fuse. When satisfied that all
formers and the sides are aligned and everything is fitting
properly, wick thin CA into all joints to permanently glue the
fuse together. Apply medium or thick CA if needed to fill any
small gaps.
13. Cut two 36" outer pushrod tubes to 22". Sand the
surface of the tubes with 80-grit sandpaper. Slide the tubes
into the rudder and elevator guide holes in formers F3 - F6
and out of the stab saddle. Glue them in place. Fill the
space around the exit slots with balsa filler, then sand the
tube flush with the stab saddle once the filler has dried.
14. Insert, but do not glue a piece of leftover 1/4" x 1/2"
balsa between the fuse sides at the aft of the fuse to
simulate a tail post. Pin or clamp the sides to it, but be sure
it does not protrude past the bottom of the fuse sides. Use
a 3/32" x 3" x 36" to sheet the bottom of the fuse from F5 to
the tail. The grain must run across the width of the fuse.
Sand the sheeting flush with the fuse sides. The dummy tail
post may now be removed.
15. Glue the three remaining 1/8" die-cut ply bolt plates
(BP) together with 6-minute epoxy. Use 6-minute epoxy to
glue the bolt plate assembly into the notch just forward of F5
and also to F5 itself.
17
16. Remove the fuse bottom from the board and sand off
any glue blobs or rough spots.
17. Position your engine in the engine mount with the
front edge of the thrust washer 3/16" ahead of the engine
mounting plate. Note: If the opening is too narrow, sand or
file both edges equally to make them wider. Mark the
location of the engine mounting holes. Hint: a Great Planes
Dead Center marking tool is great for this purpose. Remove
the engine.
18. To prevent splintering, hold a piece of leftover
hardwood under the engine mount, then drill a 1/8" diameter
hole through each mark. Turn the fuse over and install a 4-
40 blind nut in each hole. Seat them with a hammer or draw
them into position by temporarily bolting the engine in place
using the supplied 4-40 x 3/4" machine screws and #4
washers. Apply a drop of thin CA to each blind nut flange to
hold them in place. Dont get CA into the threads.
19. Use a 3/32" x 3" x 36" to sheet the bottom of the fuse from
the wing saddle to the nose. The grain must run across the
width of the fuse. Sand the sheeting flush with the fuse sides.
20. Install 3/32" die-cut balsa formers F1A, F2A and F3A.
Make sure they are vertical with a square, then glue them
in place.
21. Glue each of the two halves of the 1/8" die-cut balsa
cockpit floor (CF), F4A, F4B, and F5A together.
22. Insert the forward tabs of the cockpit floor into the
notches of F3A. Insert die-cut balsa F4A into its notch, then
plug the floor into the notches in F4A. Insert die-cut balsa
former F4B behind F4A and check that everything is aligned
and centered. When everything is positioned, apply thin CA
to glue all of the pieces in place and to each other.
23. Glue the 1/8" die-cut balsa formers F5A and F6A
in position.
18
24. Slide the tailpost of the vertical fin into position at the
rear of the fuse. The forward edge of the fin should be flush
against the back of F6 and centered side to side. Use a
square to check that the fin is perpendicular to the fuse top
and make adjustments as needed if it is not. When satisfied
with the fit, glue the fin in position with thick CA. Pinch the
fuse sides tightly to the tail post until the CA has cured.
25. Measure, cut and glue the 1/8" x 3/8" x 24" balsa
stringers to fit the turtle deck from F4 to the TE of the fin.
Bevel the rear end of each stick to fit flush with the tail post.
(See inset photo of bevel) Fit all 6 stringers at this time.
26. Use the pattern on the plan to cut the 5/16" x 2" x 24"
balsa turtle deck top to size. Work slowly to obtain a good
fit. Use a razor plane and sanding bar to do as much of the
shaping as you can before gluing it in place. Once satisfied
with the shape and fit, glue the turtle deck top to the top of
the aft fuse formers and the tail post.
27. Measure, cut and glue the three 1/8" x 3/8" x 12"
balsa stringers to fit between F1A and F3A. Measure, cut
and glue the 1/8" x 1/8" x 36" balsa gluing stringer into the
notches at the bottom of F1A - F3A and up to F4A. (See
photo at step 29.)
28. Cut a sheet of 3/32" x 3" x 36" balsa to make three
pieces 12" long. Edge glue the three pieces together making
a 3/32" x 9" x 12" piece.
29. Rub a piece of colored chalk along the top edges of
the lower fuse as shown. Wet the outside surface of the
sheet you just made and flex it with your hands to soften it
up. Wrap the sheeting around the front deck formers,
pressing the bottom edges against the fuse that is coated
with chalk. Remove the sheet and cut along the chalk lines.
Recheck the fit and adjust as needed. When satisfied with
the fit, glue the sheet in place with medium CA.
19
30. Trim the front of the front deck sheeting flush with front
edge of F1A. Trim the aft end of the sheeting flush with aft
side of F3A.
31. Use the pattern on the plan to cut and fit a sheet of
3/32" x 3" balsa to fill in the space between F3A and F4A.
The pattern is slightly over size to allow for fine tuning
and adjustment.
32. Fill any depressions, gaps and surface blemishes with
balsa colored filler and rough sand the fuse to blend all parts.
1. Refer to the plan for the location of the tail gear arm
on the rudder and mark the position. Drill a 3/32" hole into
the rudders LE 3/4" deep at this mark. Cut a 1/8" diameter
groove from the bottom of the rudder to the hole you just
drilled. Insert the tail gear arm into the hole, then hold the
rudder up to the fin TE. Center the rudder top to bottom.
2. Mark the location of the tail gear bearing on the aft
edge of the fuse. Cut a slot in the center of the tail post to
accept the tail gear bearing.
Hint: A Great Planes Slot Machine

motorized slotting tool

works great for this operation!
3. Temporarily install the bearing and rudder. The rudder
should fit flush with the fin and aft edge of the fuse. If not,
check if the bearing is fully seated or that the groove in the
rudder is deep enough. The bearing wont be glued in place
until after the model is covered.
1. Support the fuse upside down in any type of cradle. If
you dont own a store bought unit, a simple cardboard box
with U shaped cut-outs at each end will work fine. Put an
old towel into the Us to prevent damaging the model.
2. Place the wing into the saddle and check that it is
properly seated. If not, make minor adjustments with your
sanding bar to correct any problems. Measure the distance
from the center of the tail post to each wing tip and shift the
wing until the distance is equal. Mark a reference line across
the aft edge of the wing onto the bottom fuse sheeting.
Fit the Wing & Stab
Install the Tail Gear
20
3. Using the sketch as a guide, measure and mark the
location of the two wing bolt holes. While securely holding
the wing in alignment with the reference marks you made in
the previous step, drill #10 or 13/64" holes, perpendicular to
the bottom of the wing, through the wing into the wing bolt
plate. Remove the wing and enlarge the holes in only the
wing to 17/64". Tap the holes in the bolt plate with a 1/4-20
tap. A few drops of thin CA in the threads will harden them.
Retap the holes after the CA has fully cured.
4. Mount the wing using two nylon 1/4-20 x 2" wing
mounting bolts.
5. Turn the fuse over and slide the stab into the stab
saddle. Stand back about ten feet and view the model from
the rear. If the stab tips are not an equal height above the
wing, remove the stab and sand the high side of the saddle
until the stab is aligned.
6. Center the stab side to side in the fuse. Measure the
distance from each tip to a pin centered on top of the fuse
at the nose. When the distance is equalized, mark the stab
and fuse with some reference marks. Glue the stab in
position with 6-minute epoxy. NOTE: The stab should be
pushed forward as far as possible to allow room for the
elevator joiner.
Wow! That wasnt too difficult was it? You should now have
a great looking frame-up ready to cover. Gulp some coffee
and let's pull an all-nighter !
1. Fill any scuffs, dings and the forward end of the
pushrod tube exit slots with balsa filler. Sand the entire
structure with progressively finer grades of sandpaper,
ending with 320-grit.
Fuelproofing may be done either before or after covering.
1. Fuelproof the engine compartment, paying special
attention to the firewall. LustreKote

paint or 30-minute epoxy

is recommended.
2. Fuelproof any external exposed wood.
SPECIAL NOTE: Do not confuse this procedure with
checking the C.G. or balancing the airplane fore and
aft. That very important step will be covered later in
the manual.
Now that you have the basic airframe nearly completed, this
is a good time to balance the airplane laterally (side-to-
side). Here is how to do it:
1. Temporarily attach the wing and engine (with muffler)
to the fuselage.
2. With the wing level, lift the model by the engine
propeller shaft and the fin post (this may require two
people). Do this several times.
3. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it
means that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by gluing
weight to the other wing tip. NOTE: An airplane that has
been laterally balanced will track better in loops and
other maneuvers.
Balance the Airplane Laterally
Fuelproofing
Many surface blemishes on a framed model are caused by
bumps and balsa chips on the work surface. This type of
ding is best repaired by applying a drop or two of window
cleaner or tap water to the blemish, then running a sealing
iron over the spot to expand the wood fibers. After the
surface has dried, sand the expanded area smooth.
Final Sanding
FINISHING
21
The technique we will describe here is the how the model
pictured on the box was finished. Make sure the structure is
smoothly sanded with 320-grit sandpaper. Remove all dust
from the structure with a Top Flite Tack Cloth so the
MonoKote will stick well.
Cover the aircraft with MonoKote using the sequence below.
Make sure the MonoKote is thoroughly stuck to the
structure and all of the edges are sealed. Use a Top Flite
MonoKote Hot Sock

on your covering iron to avoid

scratching the MonoKote.
When covering areas that involve sharp junctions, like the
tail section, cut narrow strips (3/8" to 1/2") and apply them
in the corners before covering the major surfaces. The
larger pieces of MonoKote will overlap and capture these
smaller pieces. This technique also bypasses the need to
cut the MonoKote in these areas after it has been applied.
DO NOT, under any circumstances, attempt to cut the
covering material after it has been applied to the fin and
stab, except around the leading and trailing edges and
the tip. Modelers who do this often cut through the covering
and part-way into the balsa stab skin. This can weaken the
stab to the point where it may fail in flight!
1. Tail Junction Strips as described above
2. Rudder left side
3. Rudder right side
4. Bottom of elevators
5. Top of elevators
6. Stab bottom
7. Stab top
8. Fin left side
9. Fin right side
10. Fuse bottom
11. Fuse sides
12. Fuse top
13. Ends of ailerons
14. Bottom of ailerons
15. Top of ailerons
16. Bottom of left wing panel
17. Bottom of right wing panel
18. Top of left wing panel (overlap 1/4" at wing LE)
19. Top of right wing panel (overlap 1/4" at the LE)
Recommended Covering Sequence
MONOKOTE TECHNIQUE
You can practically eliminate MonoKote wrinkles that
sometimes occur when the model is left out in the sun or
in the back of your car by following this technique used in
the Great Planes model shop:
A. Cover your sealing iron with a Top Flite Hot Sock and
turn the heat about 3/4 of the way to the high setting.
B. Say we are going to cover the Stab cut a piece of
MonoKote film about 2" larger all around. Strip off the
backing and position the film. Tack the film down at the
center of the LE and TE.
C. Pull (as in stretch) the film toward the tip, sealing it to
the balsa. Stretch and tack it to the root end.
D. Pull and seal diagonally toward the four corners,
always starting from the center. The trick is to shrink
out any wrinkles before you seal the film to the surface.
E. Use a heat gun to heat and stretch the film around
curved surfaces like the stab and rudder tips, while
pulling on the excess material. You may need to pull
hard to get out all of the wrinkles, so wear a glove if
you need to. Follow-up the heat gun with your sealing
iron to secure the bond.
The idea behind this approach (which can be applied to
any part of the model) is to pre-stretch the MonoKote as
its applied and remove the air pockets that can expand
later which cause the sags and wrinkles.
Cover the Model
22
1. Assemble your tank and then hold it up inside the fuse
to mark the location of the fuel tubes. Drill a 1/4" hole for
both the supply tube and the pressure tube.
2. With your engine in position, use a sharpened length of
wire to mark the location of the throttle pushrod onto the
firewall. Drill a 3/16" hole on this mark.
3. Sand a 12" outer pushrod tube to roughen it up. Slide
it into the firewall and downward toward the servo tray. Cut
or drill additional passages as needed. Glue it to the firewall
leaving about 1/2" protruding.
4. Install the fuel tank, leaving about 6" of fuel tubing
poking through the firewall. The tank should be padded with
1/2" foam rubber and supported by a couple of leftover
sticks glued to the fuse sides.
Mark the location of all hinges on the control surfaces
and mating surfaces. Start with the stab and elevators.
1. Cut the hinge slot using a #11 blade in a standard #1
knife handle. The CA hinges provided have a thickness that
fits this type of slot very well. Trial fit the hinge into the slot.
If the hinge does not slide in easily, work the knife blade
back and forth in the slot a few times to provide more
clearance (it is really the back edge of the blade that does
the work here in widening the slot).
2. Drill a 3/32" hole, 1/2" deep, in the center of the
hinge slot. If you use a Dremel

tool for this task, it will

result in a cleaner hole than if you use a slower speed
power or hand drill. Drilling the hole will twist some of the
wood fibers into the slot, making it difficult to insert the
hinge, so you should re-insert the knife blade, working it
back and forth a few times to clean out the slot.
3. Cut 1" x 3/4" hinges from the hinge material provided.
Trial fit the hinges into the slots and temporarily attach the
control surface, to verify the fit and operation.
4. Rather than just making a single slit, it is better to cut
away a narrow rectangle of covering to provide an adequate
opening for the CA glue to wick into the slot.
5. Insert the hinges and install the control surface. Verify the
left-right positioning of the control surface and close up the
hinge gap to 1/32" or less. It is best to leave a very slight
hinge gap, rather than closing it up tight, to help prevent the
CA from wicking along the hinge line. Make sure the control
surface will deflect to the recommended throws without
binding. If you have cut your hinge slots too deep, the hinges
may slide in too far, leaving only a small portion of the hinge
in the control surface. To avoid this, you may insert a small
pin through the center of each hinge, before installing. This
pin will keep the hinge centered while you install the control
surface. Remove the pins before proceeding.
6. Insert the elevator joiner wire through the opening in
the tail at the rear of the stab saddle. Fill the hole you drilled
in the elevator with 30-minute epoxy, then insert the wire arm
all the way in. Make sure that both elevators are level with
each other. Work all of the hinges into position and secure
them with a few drops of thin CA on both sides of each hinge.
7. Cut the hinge slots for the rudder and test fit the rudder
to the fin with the tail gear in position. When satisfied with
the fit, remove the rudder. Then use 30-minute epoxy to
fasten the tail gear bearing into the fuse. Coat the wire
where it passes through the bearing with petroleum jelly to
prevent it from becoming glued to the bearing.
8. Pack the tail gear hole in the rudder with epoxy, then
install the rudder in the same way as the elevator using
three hinges.
DRILL A 3/32" HOLE
1/2" DEEP, IN CENTER
OF HINGE SLOT
Install the Control Surfaces
Install the Tank & Throttle Pushrod
FINAL HOOKUPS & CHECKS
23
1. Seat the landing gear in the groove on the bottom of
the wing. Secure it with two nylon straps and four #2 x 3/8"
sheet metal screws per strut.
1. Secure the main wheels to the landing gear with two
5/32" wheel collars (not included). File a flat spot on the axle
to capure the set screw.
2. Secure the tail wheel to the tail wheel gear leg with a
3/32" wheel collar.
1. Mount three servos in the servo tray following the
manufacturer's recommendations. Install cross style horns
on all servos.
2. Slide a silicone retainer over the hex end of a nylon
clevis. Screw the clevis 14 turns onto the threaded end of
a 36" wire pushrod. Cut the unthreaded end to shorten the
wire to 27-3/4". Trim the backing plate from a nylon control
horn, then clip the clevis to the outer hole of the horn. Make
a second pushrod assembly that is 28-1/4" in length.
3. Insert the pushrods into the tubes in the fuse from the
tail, then hold a horn in position on either the elevator or
rudder (see sketch above for correct alignment). The
pushrod should not be bent and should slide easily in the
tube. Mark the location for the horn screws on the control
surface. Drill the 3/32" horn screw holes through the control
surface, then prick a few pin holes into the wood under the
horns location. Apply a drop or two of thin CA to the pin
holes to strengthen the wood. When cured, screw the horn
in place with two 2-56 machine screws and the backing
plate. Repeat for the other control surface.
4. Connect the receiver to the servos, switch and battery.
Turn on your transmitter and receiver, then center the elevator
and rudder servo. Be sure that the trim levers are centered.
5. Center the elevator, then mark the pushrod where it
crosses the second servo horn hole from the center.
Enlarge the servo horn hole with a 5/64" drill bit.
6. Make a ninety degree bend in the pushrod on your
mark then insert it through the enlarged hole in the servo
horn. Secure it in place with a nylon Faslink

.
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 for the rudder.
2-56 (.074")
Pushrod Wire
Servo Horn
FasLink
1/16"
INCORRECT CORRECT
HINGE LINE
Radio Installation
Install the Landing Gear
24
8. Hookup the throttle using the 12" white nylon pushrod, 1"
threaded stud and nylon clevis at the throttle and the 4"
threaded wire and brass pushrod connector at the servo. Make
sure that the servo does not stall at either end of its travel.
9. Wrap your receiver in a plastic bag, then wrap it with
foam rubber. Secure the foam with a couple of rubber
bands. Temporarily secure the receiver in the cavity just
ahead of the servos as shown.
10. Route the receiver antenna out of the fuselage
bottom behind the wing. Anchor the antenna to the tail gear
with a rubber band. Be sure to put a strain relief on the
antenna where it exits the fuse.
11. Mount the receiver switch and charging jack through
the fuselage on the opposite side of the fuse to the muffler
exhaust. We suggest using a Great Planes Switch/Charging
Jack Mount (GPMM #1000) because of its ease of
installation and tidy appearance.
12. Install the aileron servos and pushrods as shown
using two 12" wire pushrods, clevises and Faslinks. Fish
the servo leads through to the center of the wing and plug
them into a Y-harness.
13. Turn on the radio system and check the direction of all
control functions. They must all move in the direction shown
in the sketch. If not, change the position of the reversing
switches on your transmitter.
NOTE: The balance and surface throws for this aircraft
have been extensively tested. We are confident that
they represent the settings at which the SlowPoke
Sport 40 flies best. Please set up your aircraft to the
specifications listed above. If, after a few flights, you
would like to adjust the throws to suit your tastes, thats
fine. Too much throw can force the plane into a stall, so
remember, more is not better.
We recommend the following control surface throws:
NOTE: Throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevators, rudder and ailerons.
High Rate Low Rate
ELEVATOR: 7/16" up 1/4" up
7/16" down 1/4" down
AILERONS: 1" up 3/4" up
1" down 3/4" down
RUDDER: 1-1/2" left
1-1/2" right
NOTE: If your radio does not have dual rates, then set
up the control surfaces to move between the high rate
and low rate throws.
Control Surface Throws
4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER
4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER
4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER
4-CHANNEL RADIO SET-UP
(STANDARD MODE 2)
TRANSMITTER
4-CHANNEL
ELEVATOR MOVES UP
RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN
RUDDER MOVES RIGHT
CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN
25
NOTE: This section is VERY important and must NOT be
omitted! A model that is not properly balanced will be
unstable and possibly unflyable.
1. Accurately mark the balance point on the top of the wing
on both sides of the fuselage. The balance point is shown on
the plan (CG) and is located 4-5/8" back from the leading
edge as shown in the sketch and on the plan. Hint: Use the
full-size wing plan to help you accurately locate the proper
balance point on the wing. This is the balance point at which
your model should balance for your first flights. Later, you
may wish to experiment by shifting the balance up to 3/8"
forward or back to change the flying characteristics. Moving
the balance forward may improve the smoothness and
arrow-like tracking, but it may then require more speed for
takeoff and make it more difficult to slow down for landing.
Moving the balance aft makes the model more agile with a
lighter and snappier feel and often improves aerobatic
capabilities. In any case, please start at the location we
recommend and do not at any time balance your model
outside the recommended range.
2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of the
model installed (ready to fly) and an empty fuel tank, hold
the model upside down with the stabilizer level.
3. Lift the model at the balance point. If the tail drops
when you lift, the model is tail heavy and you must add
weight* to the nose to balance. If the nose drops, it is nose
heavy and you must add weight* to the tail to balance.
NOTE: Nose weight may be easily installed by using a
Heavy Spinner Hub or gluing lead weights into the engine
compartment. Tail weight may be added by using Great
Planes (GPMQ4485) stick-on lead weights and, later, if
the balance proves to be OK you can open the fuse bottom
and glue these in permanently.
*If possible, first attempt to balance the model by changing
the position of the receiver battery and receiver. If you are
unable to obtain good balance by doing so, then it will be
necessary to add weight to the nose or tail to achieve the
proper balance point.
Follow the battery charging procedures in your radio instruction
manual. You should always charge your transmitter and
receiver batteries the night before you go flying and at other
times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.
The best place to fly your R/C model is an AMA (Academy of
Model Aeronautics) chartered club field. Ask your hobby shop
dealer if there is such a club in your area and join. Club fields
are set up for R/C flying and that makes your outing safer and
more enjoyable. The AMA also can tell you the name of a club
in your area. We recommend that you join AMA and a local
club so you can have a safe place to fly and have insurance
to cover you in case of a flying accident. (The AMA address
is listed on page 2 of this instruction book).
If a club and its flying site are not available, you need to find
a large, grassy area at least 6 miles away from any other
R/C radio operation like R/C boats and R/C cars and away
from houses, buildings and streets. A schoolyard may look
inviting but it is too close to people, power lines and possible
radio interference.
If you are not thoroughly familiar with the operation of R/C
models, ask an experienced modeler to check to see that you
have the radio installed correctly and that all the control
surfaces do what they are supposed to. The engine operation
also must be checked and the engine broken-in on the
ground by running the engine for at least two tanks of fuel.
Follow the engine manufacturers recommendations for
break-in. Check to make sure all screws remain tight, that
the hinges are secure and that the prop is on tight.
Wherever you do fly, you need to check the operation of the
radio before every time you fly. This means with the
transmitter antenna collapsed and the receiver and
transmitter on, you should be able to walk at least 100 feet
away from the model and still have control. Have someone
help you. Have them stand by your model and, while you
work the controls, tell you what the various control surfaces
are doing. Repeat this test with the engine running at
various speeds with an assistant holding the model. If the
control surfaces are not always acting correctly, do not fly!
Find and correct the problem first.
Range Check Your Radio
Ground Check the Model
Find a Safe Place to Fly
Charge the Batteries
PREFLIGHT
Balance Your Model
26
NOTE: Failure to follow these safety precautions may
result in severe injury to yourself and others.
Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke near
the engine or fuel; and remember that the engine exhaust
gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore do
not run the engine in a closed room or garage.
Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate engines.
Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand; as
the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away
from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and
run the engine.
Keep items such as these away from the prop: loose
clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects
(pencils, screw drivers) that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.
Use a chicken stick device or electric starter; follow
instructions supplied with the starter or stick. Make certain
the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not
pop off or otherwise get into the running propeller.
Make engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller.
The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or after
operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel
will not leak onto a hot engine causing a fire.
To stop the engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off the fuel
line or follow the engine manufacturers recommendations. Do
not use hands, fingers or any body part to try to stop the engine.
Do not throw anything into the prop of a running engine.
Read and abide by the following Academy of Model
Aeronautics Official Safety Code:
General
1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been
proven to be airworthy by having been previously
successfully flight tested.
2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right of way to and avoid flying
in the proximity of full scale aircraft. Where necessary an
observer shall be used to supervise flying to avoid having
models fly in the proximity of full scale aircraft.
3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model.
9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
Radio Control
1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.
2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted
by an experienced helper.
3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit
or spectator areas and I will not thereafter fly over pit or
spectator areas, unless beyond my control.
4. I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission.
The Great Planes SlowPoke Sport 40 is a great flying sport
airplane that flies smoothly and predictably, yet is highly
maneuverable. Compared to other sport planes, its flight
characteristics are very docile and forgiving. It does not,
however, have the self-recovery characteristics of a primary
R/C trainer; therefore, you must either have mastered the
basics of R/C flying or obtained the assistance of a
competent R/C pilot to help you with your first flights.
FLYING
AMA Safety Code (excerpts)
Engine Safety Precautions
27
Balance your propellers carefully before flying. An
unbalanced prop is the single most significant cause of
damaging vibration. Not only will engine mounting screws
and bolts vibrate out, possibly with disastrous effect, but
vibration will also damage your radio receiver and battery.
Vibration will cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn,
cause your engine to run rough or quit.
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(#TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Balancer (#GPMQ5000) in our flight box.
If you have dual rates on your transmitter, set the switches
to high rate for takeoff, especially when taking off in a
crosswind. Although this model has excellent low speed
characteristics, you should always build up as much speed
as your runway will permit before lifting off, as this will give
you a safety margin in case of a flame-out. Start your
takeoff roll pointing directly into the wind if possible. When
you first advance the throttle and the tail begins to lift, the
plane will start to turn left (a characteristic of all tail
draggers). Be ready for this and correct by applying
sufficient right rudder to hold it straight down the runway.
The left-turning tendency will go away as soon as the tail is
up and the plane picks up speed. Be sure to allow the tail
to come up. Dont hold the tail on the ground with too much
up elevator, as the SlowPoke Sport 40 will become airborne
prematurely and will possibly stall. When the plane has
sufficient flying speed, (this should only take 50 or so on a
paved surface, about 100 off short grass!) lift off by
smoothly applying up elevator (dont jerk it into a steep
climb!) and climb out gradually.
We recommend that you take it easy with your SlowPoke
Sport 40 for the first several flights, gradually getting
acquainted with this classic sport plane as your engine
gets fully broken-in. Add and practice one maneuver at a
time, learning how she behaves in each. For ultra-smooth
flying and normal maneuvers, we recommend using the
low rate settings as listed on page 26. High rate elevator
may be required for rolls, spins and tight loops.
When its time to land, fly a normal landing pattern and
approach into the wind. Always try to land directly into the
wind as directional control is much easier and you dont
have to worry about the wind getting under one of those
huge wing panels and possible flipping it over. Keep a few
clicks of power on until you are over the runway threshold.
For your first landings, plan to land slightly faster than stall
speed and on the main wheels, as this is the easiest way to
land your SlowPoke Sport 40. Later, with a little technique,
you will find you can make slow, 3-point landings.
Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in a safe
manner. GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
Landing
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If,
while flying, you notice any unusual sounds, such as a low-
pitched buzz, this may be an indication of control surface
flutter. Because flutter can quickly destroy components of
your airplane, any time you detect flutter you must
immediately cut the throttle and land the airplane! Check all
servo grommets for deterioration (this will indicate which
surface fluttered) and make sure all pushrod linkages are
slop-free. If it fluttered once, it probably will flutter again
under similar circumstances unless you can eliminate the
slop or flexing in the linkages. Here are some things which
can result in flutter: Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting
control horns solidly; Sloppy fit of clevis pin in horn; Elasticity
present in flexible plastic pushrods; Side-play of pushrod in
guide tube caused by tight bends; Sloppy fit of Z-bend in
servo arm; Insufficient glue used when gluing in the elevator
joiner wire or aileron torque rod; Excessive flexing of aileron,
caused by using too soft balsa aileron; Excessive play or
backlash in servo gears; and insecure servo mounting.
Flight
Takeoff
Balance the Propeller
B C
D A