JOTTINGS

MADE DURING A TOUR

AMONGST THE
lAUD DTAKS OE UPPER SARAWAK,
BORNEO,
DURING THE YEAR, 1874.
BY
KOEi. DENISON,
FOEMERLY OF TEE SARAWAK GOVEENIVIEKT SERVICE.
SINGAPORE
:
PEINTED AT THE "MISSION PEESB."
1879.
CORNELL UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY
ITHACA, N.Y. 14853
John M. Echols Collection
on Southeast Asia
KROCH LIBRARY
CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY
3 1924 078 409 681
TO
ARTHUR
CHICHESTER CR00K8HANK, ESQ.,
(late Resident
of
Sarawak.)
WHO ENTEEBD THE SAKAWAK GOVERNMENT SEEVICE'
IN 1843,
UNDER HIS RELATIVE RAJAH SIR JAMES BROOKE, K. C. B.,
AND RETIRED EROM IT IN 1873,
HAVING
HELD. THE APPOINTMENT OF RESIDENT OF SARAWAK
FROM 1863 TO 1873,
AND
THRICE ADMINISTERED
THE GOVERNMENT OF THE
COUNTRY
DURING
THE ABSENCE
OF HIS HIGHNESS THE RAJAH,
THESE
JOTTINGS
AMONGST
THE LAND DYAKS OF
SARAWAK
ARE
DEDICATED
IN GRATEFUL
REMEMBRANCE
BY
THE AUTHOR.
4-
,36-7
0)93
^^U-
INTRODUCTION.
From
1870 to 1872, I held the appointment under the Rnja of Sarawal^ of Magis-
trate and
Assistant Resident of Upper Sarawak, and in an ex- official capacity bad many
opportunities
of meeting and associating with' members of some of the different tribes of
Land
Dyaka or Djak Darrat, principally witlv those of Gunong Serambo and others set-
tled on the western branch of tlie Sarawak river.
The nature of my duties in a mining district, -at this time actively worked by the
Borneo Company, prevented my visiting (except in a few hurried instances) these Dyaks
in their village homes, until 1871, when I ascended the southern branch of the Sarawak
riverj to its head waters at Pangkalan Ampat
From thence I proceeded to Sennah, visiting the Dyaks of the same name, and after
-ascending and descending Gunongs Sodos, Si Munti and Menyerri, I found myself at the
head waters of the Sadong river.
I'uiing this portion of my trip, I followed the trace laid down by "Wallace the natu-
ralist and traveller;
I was too new to the country and its inhabitants to form any proper
or trustworth}'. conclusions as to what I saw and passed through, but it is my intention to
embody my notes, rough and mengre as they are, in the course of this narrative. In many
places they describe a line of country whicii has been gone over but by two Europeans be-
sides myselfWallace in 1855, and Mr. Hay, a Government ofHcer, in 1860, while in others
again 1 have been but the only European.
At the head waters of the Sadong river, ImadetheDyak village of Senankan Tumma
my quarters for the night, and the next morning visited Sigow where Malays and Chinese
ivere actively engaged in gold working.
Retracing my steps 1 came to 6i Jijac, whence taking prow I descended the Sadong to
Tumma Sungan, a village of the Tumma Dyaks, where I spent the night
The next morning, continuing my descent of the Sadong river in a small prau, Ave
entered the Sungan stream. After poling up this till the shallowness of the water prevent-
ed further progress, we struck across country, and after ascending and descending the Si
Peddang mountain, halted for a mid-da}-- meal at the picturesque Dyak village of Tari-
ting, at the foot of the Si Peddang.
After ascending Gunong Bombaru we maSe a short halt on the summit, at the village
of the same name, and descending this mountain we made our way past the foot of Gunong
Siboo to Sennah, which we reached at 5 p.
m., and immediately taking boat, poled our
way back to Pangkalan Ampat ; the next day I descended the Sarawak river to my station
at Paku.
This trip being hurriedly made, and fatiguing in character, prevented my throwing
myself amongst the people as I should have wished. It awoke in me, however, a longing
desire to see and know more of a country which abounde^d in magnificent scenery, and
whose inhabitants, poor, neglected and ignorant as they were, had in their characters and
habits much to interest me.
It was not until 1874 that an opportunity presented itself of making a lengthened,
stay amongst these people
;
in the interval I had done all I could to collect information
from Dutch as well as English sources, regarding the Land Dyak tribes in Sarawak territo-
ry, and as I finally succeeded in visiting the whole of the tribes on the southern and
western branches of the Sarawak river, some of the tribes on the Sekyam river in Datqh
territory, as well as those lying between the Sarawak and Samarahan streams, and those
on the Samarjihan, 1 hope with all its faults due to my inexperience and ignorance of the
Land Dyak language, this narrative may contain some matter of interest to those who
look on the Land Dyaks as something better than mere beasts of burden, or created only
for purposes of revenue, or to be bullied and swindled by idle, loafing, useless Malays, as
is even now too often the case.
Cornell University
Library
The original of this book is in
the Cornell University Library.
There are no known copyright restrictions in
the United States on the use of the text.
http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924078409681
I must crave the reader's indulgence for what I am about to lay before iiim, I have-
had no opportunities iq an oEficial capacity of collecting information; my narrative, as I but
too well know, will be found to abound in misstajgments and perhaps inaccur^jicies. But
if
1 have smoothed the way, and laid the foundation for other and better informed follow-
ers, my task will be done, and the time, trouble, and fatiijue which has been brouglit to
bear on collecting and compiling this narrative will be fully repaid.
Such information as [ possess of the Land Dyaks is due to no Government aid, nor
has the Government extended its iiand to me pecuniarily or otherwise during a long and
wearying march extending over 49 days through a mountainous and wooded country,
where tlie paths were but Dyak tracks, over hill and through ravinef over batangs (trunks and
stems of trees and saplings placed lougitudimilly as a path) and^precipices, and often for
hours together but the simple river bed, or the slippery stones in the course of some
mountain torrent.
During two thirds of my journey I was accompanied by only two Malays, and with
these I pushed my way from village to village
; to the help and assistance of these Malays
I owe much, and I can never forget how these men stood by me in moments of difBculty,
trouble and fatigue. On almost every occasion I found the Dyaks willing and anxious to
further my views by every means in their power, though procrastination and dilatoriness
were their besetting sins. Their hospitality was not great, and owing to the absence
sometimes of the Oraug Kayas and headmen at their farms, provisions ran short, but as
I had come in their midst without notice and unsolicited, this is hardly to be wondered at.
The Raja's Government was everywhere looked up to and' respected, and the name of Sir
James Brooke (The Raja I'ua) is still recollected and his memory cherished and revered
in many a lone Dyak hamlet perched on the summit of a rugged mountain or buried ia
the depths of some sea of jungle such as is j)erhaps only to be found in Borneo.
Beyond what has been written by Sir James Brooke, St. John, and Low, little has been
published regarding these Dyaks. I shall therefore, in the hope that it may prove
interesting, draw up a short sketch describing their position in the island of Borneo and
in the Sarawak territory, their number under Sarawak rule, together with some of the
peculiarities which distinguish them from the Sea Dyaks and other wild tribes.
Without wishing to enter into any controversy as to the origin of these or any other
tribes which are to be met with on this island, I shall confine myself strictly to the Land
Dyaks, premising only that all my readers will agree with me that the Land Dyaks are
distinct from other tribes- in language, and in many of their habits, customs, religions
observances and rites, while their history and traditions point to other sources of origin
differing from those of the Sea Dyaks and other races in Sarawak territory.
In the short experience I have had of the Land Dyaks, I have found them with one
or two exceptions truthful in the extreme, generally honest and straightforward in their
dealings, though they can be cunning enough when it suits their purpose: they are reserved
in their manners, and far from communicative to those with whom they are unacquainted,,
but having gained their confidence and opened their hearts with a little arrack they be-
come talkative and free in their conversation. I do not consider them generous; all and
everything I received from these people on my trip was paid for either in money, beads,
tobacco, brnsswire, &c., and on many occasions I was considerably a loser in my dealings.
The woi'st feature connected with the Dyak character- is* their temper ; they are
sulky, obstinate and sullen when put out or corrected, and they are exceedingly apathetic,
uor does there appear any inclination on their part to rise above their low and degraded
condition; all ambition or desire to elevate themselves or their children appeairs to have been
trampled out of them by the years of tyranny and oppression which they have had to
undergo at the hands of the iMalays, and the only chance of improving this race is in
caring for the childrenthe old men in my opinion are long past anything approaching to
improvement.
When we consider what these Land Dyaks have suffered at the hands of the Malays-
and Sea Dyaks, instances of which I shall state in the course of this narrative, we shall
find little to surprise us in their present degraded condition, and in the want of energy
which
distingniahea them in so marked a degree.
It is not my intention, at this early stage of my narration, to eater into the question
of the
condition of the Land Dyaka, nor to explain what steps, in my opinion, should be
taken to remedy
the present evils; suffice it to say tliat the whole "Western branch of the
Sarawak
from
Serambo to Tringus is under a Malay residing at Jagui, while the South-
ern
branch, to the head
waters of the Samarahan, is under his nephew, who resides at
Pangkalan
Ampat,
while the Samarahan Dyaks have also a Malay in their midst.
Kuching,
January, 1875. N. DENI80N.
JOTTINGS
DURING A TRIP AMONGST THE
LAND DYAKS OF BORNEO.
Chapter I.
Geographical Position of the Laud Dj-aks on tlie Island of Borneo. Locality of the Land Dyaks
iu the Sara-wak
Territorj"^Number of the Land Dyak PopulationRevenue paid by the Land Dyaks

Origin of the Land Dyaks,. Legends concerning the sameTraces of Hinduism among the Land Dyaks.
^

'
.
.
The first account we have of the localitv of the Land Dyalcs, is
of theLanIf'^Uv'rk3''ou
^^'^ ^"^""^ pen of Sir James Brooke. " The locality" he says, ''of. the
the Islaud of Borneo. " Land Dyaks may be marked as follows
:
The Pontianak River,
"from its mouth, is traced into the interior towards the northward
"
and westward, until it approaches at the furthest within 100 miles of the north-west
"coast; a Hue drawn in Latitude
3
N. till it intersects the course of the Pontianak
"*'
river will point out the limit of the country inhabited by the D3'ak Darrat. Within this
"inconsiderable portion of the island, which includes Sambas, Landak, Pontianak, San-
-"
gouw, Sarawak, &c., are numerous tribes, all of which agree iu their leading customs, and
"
make use of nearly the same dialect."*
The 3
N. Latitude must be a misprint, as. thia would embrace the whole Sarawak
territory as far north as Muka, where Sir James must have known no Land Dyak tribes
were to ha^e been met with.
2
North is probably meant, and this would confine their
limit to latitude of Cape Datu, to the northward of Avhich are no Land Dyak settlements.
Following the results of my own enquiry and the accounts given bj' Dutch writers,
I would place the locality of the Land iJyaks between the mouth of the Pontianak river
.and
2
N. Latitude, and a line meeting these drawn from Longitude 111, would be the
furthest eastward limit. This would embrace the whole of the Land Dj'aks under Sara-
wak rule, and those of Samba.s, Mampawa, Landak, Tajang, Meliouw, and Sangouw in the
Netherlands-Indian territorj'.
All these Dyaks may be said to speak the same language ; each tribe has, perhaps, it-5
-own peculiarities of words, idiom and pronunciation, aud in some districts provincialisms
may abound, "but still the dialect of all these tribes is radically the same. 1 am borne out
in the above opinion by the Dutch ti:aveller Van Kessel, who, in his attempted classifica-
tion of the Dyaks in the north-western division of Borneo, arrives at very much the same
conclusion as myself.f
Locality of the Land
The Land Dyaks in Sarawak territory are found at Lundu, on
Dyaks in Sarawak Ter- both the western and southern branches of the Sarawak river, in the
"''"y-
country between the Sarawak and Samarahan rivers, on the upper
watei's of the Samarahan, and also the Sadong river and its tributaries.
Beyond a casual visit I know nothing of the Land Dyaks in the Lundu Residency.
I am indebted to the courtesy of Mr. Nelson, the Resident, for the following infortjiatioa
regarding these people;
Four tribes of Land Dyaks are settled in Lundu, the Lundu^ot 9 families, the
Selaccos with 91,
the Laras with 61, and the Smvs of 28.
J'-w-^^AS"
The Lundu tribe was once large and powerful, but are now reduced to a mere fraction
of their former number; the ravages of small po.^ in 18^ almost exterminated them, and
their determined refusal to intermarry with other tribe.s is fast destroying the remnant.
The Peninjauh Dyaks on the Serarabo mountain assure me that the Lundus arc an ofT-shoot
from their tribe, who years ago left Serambo and settled at Lundu.
The Selaccos belong to a tribe settled in the Netherland.s-Iudian territorj', who have
crossed the frontier to avoid the tyrannical exactions of the Sultan of Sambas. The head-
quarters of this tribe appears to be in the neighbourhood of Gunong Raja; the Krokong

The E.xpedition to Borneo of H. M. S.

"
Dido." vol.
2,
page 200.
f
Van Kessel quoted by Veth, Borneo's "Wester Afdeling, Vol.
1, page 165.
Dyaks assert that in former times tlie Selnccos had their settlement at Gunong Kapar^,^.
near Bedi, on the Western branch of the Sarawak. Mr. O. St. John, who visited the Selaccoa,
tells me they are remarkable for speaking the purest and moat gramnaatical Malay,
.
, using affixes and prefixes as if they had been brought up in a Malayan Grammar School,
if such a thing exists. The women, I am told, have adopted the Malay dress.
The Laras are also from Sambas, the Lara district lying to the east^ward of Montrado
as far as the upper branches of the Sambas River.
.$'ft,w^The
StHvs have settled, I believe, at the head waters of the Luadu stream; they consist
of a few families who have migrated from the Snighi Dyaks on the Sarawak river, and
have been but a year or two in Lundu. ^>-of<f
.
If we allow 4 persons to each family, we shall find the Lundua-
Number of the Lcd
numbering 36, the Selaccos 364, the Laras 244, and the S^ws 112,.
Dyaklopukiion.
making a total in the Lundu Residency of756._
_
y**^^
Mr. Houghton, the Resident of Sadong, informs me that in his Residency there are-
37 villages; he estimates the number of married people paying exemption tax at about
1,400,
and taking an average of 4 per family this would make 5,600 or say 6,000 as the
entire Land Dyak population in Sadong.
We now come to the Dyaks on the western and southern branches of the Sarawak
river; on the former we may reckon 12 villages, all under their respective Orang Kayas
or head men, almost every one paying the village revenue direct to Kuching.
These villages are Serambo, Bombok, Peninjauh, Singhi, Grogo, Tambawang, Suba,
Krokong, Jagui, "Qirp
,
Gurabang and Tringus, though we may classify these into
5-
tribes viz:
^^'-/i^
1st, Serambo, Bombok and Peninjauh, whom we may call the Serambo tribe; 2nd the
Singhi tribe; 3rd, Grogo, Tambawang, Suba, Krokong, Jagui, and Bwp, as the,SmT tribe";
4th, Gumbang, and 5th Tringus, as the Gumbang and Tringus^ribes ; the grounds oF
this classification I shall explain when describing my visit to these Dyaks.
In 1871 the Government ordered a census to be made of the Land Dyak tribes in the
Sarawak Residency. I regret that I have not a complete return before -me, but from the-
figures at my command I find that the Serambo tribe amounted to men, women and chil-
dren all told. ... ... ... ... ... ... 954.-
The Singhi tribe. Of this I have no figures, but from the number of families
who paid the exemption tax in 1873, viz. 277 at 4 persons per family, I can
reckon ... ... ... ... ... 1108.
1^1^ K
A
The Sm tribe, according to census in 1871, all told ... ... 1446.-
The Gumbang tribe do ,
do ... ... 367.-
The Tringus tribe do
do ... ... 477.
Making a total on the western branch of the Sarawak river of ... 4352.
On the southern branch of the Sarawak river and its proximity are 9 tribies. The-
Ist Sentah, 2nd Serapro, 3rd Sibungo, 4th Segu, 5th-Stang, 6th Brang, 7th Sennah, 8th
Tabiali, and 9th Sumban, tribes.
According to the census of 1871 I find the population of the tribes to be as follows-
all told.
The Sibungo tribe, according to census of 1871. ... ... 331^
Sempro do
do ... ... ... 617,
Segu do
do ... . ... ... 462..

Stang do
do ... ... ... 245,.
Brang do
do ... ... ... 317..
Sennah do
do ... ... ... 605.
Tabiah do
do ... .. ... 328.
Sumban , do
do ... ... ... 245.-
Sentah tribe, I have no
return for, but in 1873, 96 families paid exemption
tax, making, at 4 per
family ... ... 384,
Making a total on the southern branch of the Sarawak river of ... 3534,
"We have now remaining 6 villages on the head waters of the Samarahan river, Sim-
pok, Serin, Kumpang^, Lanchang, Jinan and Mungo Babi ; these I shall classify as 3 tribes,
the Ist Sirapok, the 2nd Serin, and the 3rd the Bukar tribe.
I have no census returns of these tribes, and I have again to arrive at an estimate bj
calculating the number of families paying tax. According to this
The Simpok tribe paid in 1873 tax on 72 families at 4 per familv ... 288.
Seri^>^
do 117 do ...
..'.
... 468.
Bukar
do 197 do ... ... ... 788.
Making a total on the Samarahan river of ... ... ... 1,544
In estimating, therefore, the number of Land Dyaks under Sarawak rule, we may calcu-
late on an agregate of 16,186.
In the Sadong Residency ... ... ... ... 6,000
In the Lundu Residency ... ... .. ... 756
On the western branch of the Sarawak river ... ... ... 4,352
On the southern branch of the Sarawak river ... ... 3,534
On the head waters of the Samarahan river ... ... ... 1,544
16,186
These figures cannot be considered as exact or accurate, but we may safely say that
they are correct enough to represent a fair estimate of the Land Dj'ak population, sufficient
for all practical purposes. In my description of the. villages visited I shall mention the
number of families paying revenue or exemption tax; thesefigures will not tally perhaps
with those of the census returns, but this is to be accounted for by the difficulty of obtaining-
perfect returns, and also by' the difference of dates, the census having been "taken in 1871
while the revenue returns are for 1873.
The revenue paid by the Land Dyak.s and called the exemption tax
Lanli'Dyaks.
^
'
"^
^^ ^ passus of rice or
$3
per annum per family or kuig as it is called
;
^a^i^A^
by-this is meant a married couple, the bachelors or bujangs, the back-
bone of the tribe, are free from any claim on the part of the Government. Many Dyaks
evade paying revenue by marrying, and when the tax becomes due putting away the wife,
and thus claim immunity of payment on the grounds of being bachelors. This divorcing
of their wives is a very trivial matter amongst the Dyaksan unlucky omeu, a bad dream
on the part of the husband or wife, or even of their parents is a sufficient excuse, and in
this way the Government is defrauded of a good deal of fair and lawful revenue.
When Sir James Brooke first came into the country, the tax was but one passu of
rice or 1 rupee
(1/8);
it was afterwards raised to
1^
passus of rice or $1 (4/2), it was again
raised to 3 passus of rice or
|2,
which is still the rate at Sadoug
;
in 1872 it was raised
to its present figure.
Such tribes as possess caves in which edible bird's nesLs are found, divide the nesta
with Government. These nests are taken three times in a year1st Buang burok, clean-
ing out the caves ; in this take the nests are few and of indiflferent quality ; they are the
perquisite of the tribe; 2nd Bunga jagong, which goes entirely to Government ; 3rd Peniuda,
this is the property of the tribe, and is, as is also the first take, divided amongst those' who
have worked in the cave to proc.ire the nests, and is n"ot the property of the tribe as a
tribe.
When the paddy is ripe (branyi) the Dyaks bring in a small present to Government,.
Bunga taun, generally a fowl or two, a passu of rice, and a passu of rice
*
pulut, a few
eggs and some fruit ; these are exchanged for a little arrack and tobacco.
It was an old custom with the Dyaks of the western branch of the Sarawak river
dating from time immemorial, for Government to give them nothing for two years, these
were called taun manang, doctoring years. On the 3rd year Government gave a little gold
dust, and 2 fathoms of white cotton cloth to each of the Orang Kayas and Pengaras ; this

Bice puluta peculiar kind of rice, boiled in pieces of young bamboo.

was called the "adat parsaliu;'' on the 4th year Government o;ave one or two jars
"
tam-
payang pumbisa or pabisa," worth about 30 cents each, to the Orang Kayas and Pengaras,
and when the revenue was collected, some white cotton cloth was distributed amongst the
head people of the tribes.
On the southern branch the custom was different; the 1st year Government gave
nothing,
being taun mauangthe 2nd year, parsalin, a baju and a head handkerchief to the
Orang Kayas and Pengaras ; 3rd Pambisa a few gongs or chanangs were giveu, but no
gold dust.
These customs have fallen into abeyance, why or wherefore it is difficult to say; they
entailed little expense, and sliowed the Dyaks that the Government took some interest in
them.
1 was repeatedly asked by the Orang Kayas and headmen why Government had
abolished the custom.
Origin of tiie Land Dyakn.
^^ entering On the question of the oi'igin of the Land Dyaks, and
Legeiuis cuncerniug the whether they are or are not the aborigines of the districts which they
^*""'"
inhabit, I wish particularly to avoid any approach to an ethnological
controversy, which is entirely foreign to my purpose.
It was my intention wlien visiting the Land Dyaks to push my way to a large tribe
^/t called the Si^ongs, whose village is on Gunong Sinjang on the right bank of the Sekyam in
in Netherlands-Indian territory, though, as I shall explain in my account of this people,
they as well as many other tribes in the interior, were once counted as under Sarawak.
,
4 The Sic'ongs had never been visited by any European connected with Sarawak; strange
stories, were told me regarding them by the Malays. I was assured my life was not safe
amongst them, that the village was on an almost inaccessible mountain, that the people
used poison to a great extent, and that as these Dyalcs refused to pay revenue to the Dutch,
who from the natural difficulties of the country were unable to compel them, my visit
would probably be paid to a set of i-eckless savages without a shadow of law or government.
As I proceeded from village to village and discussed matters with the headmen and
others of the different tribes, I was sur|>ried to learn when I mentioned my intention of
/'^visiting Si/^ong that the whole of the Land Dyaks under Sarawak rule claim to have come
'
4 originally from S^ong, principally under two leaders Trau and atamod, and all the
head men with one or two exceptions expressed a strong wish to accompany me to what
they considered the land of their origin.
This circumstance seems to have escaped the notice of all the writers on SaraAvak, and
it was not until the completion of my tour and return- to Kuching that I found that
Groll the Dutch traveller
*
had learnt the following legend as to the origin of the
/(
Syibngs themselves.
"A crowd of seafarers, from whence coming is not mentioned, drifted in a large
"prou, over an extensive water, and struck at last on the mountain Sinjang" (called also
"by the Dutch authors Bajang, Krimbang, and Baretjek^ though this must be wrong.)
"After some time they discovered that the vicinity of the prew was dry and the water
"
gradually subsided. On this they left the prow but must quickly have perished from the
"
want of the means of existence had not a large grain of paddy fallen dowa near them^
"out of heaven, of which they were careful enough to eat only the half; the other half
"
was reduced into small pieces and planted. The grains they reaped were naturally only
"
as large as the pieces planted. In the meantime more and more land gradually came
"
to the surface, and the people always went onward with half of their harvest in hand
"
to consume, and the other half entrusted to th>i^^bosora of the earth to procure from it
"
new food. They multiplied and spread as the nature of the country permitted, over
"
Landak, Sangguw, &c., and the more outlying portions of the island.
Groll introduces this story by calling attention to the numerous traditions current
amongst the Dyaks that in former times nearly the whole country except the summits of
the
highest mountains were under water and rose up above the sea level as separate
islands,
the Banjermassin Dyalcs
maintaining that for many years Borneo was but a small
island and what is now land was covered by the sea and the summits of the Parawaren
and Bundang mountains were alone visible.
Quoted ij Vetb, Vol. 1, Paga 176.
request bestowed ou liim wisdom, and it was said that his offspring should rule over
many lands as princes, which they did, for his sons were chiefs of small colonies. Tradi-
tion says this prince possessed no fixed residence, and that he could so contract himself as
to be able to pass the night in the flower of the Tunjung shrub, meaning I take it that he
was continually
travelling and not particular as to his lodging. Under him Succadana
flourished
in trade and navigation
;
he died at a ripe old age, being buried on Biikit Laut.
Panembalian
Pundong Prasap or Tuntang Asap succeeded his father as 4th prince.
The burning of large forests for open clearings is ascribed to him, and he collected the
scattered
population and was skilful in acquiring their esteem and affection.
His son, Panembalian Bandala, enlarged Succadana, watching also over the welfare
of Kota Lama. Under his prosperous and on the whole peaceful reign Banjermassin and
Bruni were visited by vessels from Succadana, though he waged a war against the Kari-
mata islands, the ruler of which had ravished his bride, a daughter of a Dyak chief named
Sambar, who must^ have given his name to the Southwest promontory of Borneo. The
subjection of the Karimata islands may probably have ijeen the result of this war, as we
shall soon find them ruled by a governor from Succadana. Bandala on his death was
buried at Bukit Laut.
As Bandala's son was in his minority, the late prince was succeeded by his brother
Paugeran Anom, meaning in Javanese "young," who as he was called after his death
Marhum Ratu (late king), must be counted a sovereign prince. He is therefore the same
who is elsewhere called Panembalian Succadana; still there is a discrepancy, as he is
occasionally spoken of as the son and not the brother of Bandala. Pangeran Anom ruled
prosperously, however, enjoying great military fame, his greatest feat being undoubtedly
his war with Sintang.
The chief of Sintang one Putan was the last male child of an old Dyak family, and
his only daughter had been promised in marriage to Anom provided he sent within two
months, according to custom, a bridal present of a gohl nosegay of the value of two bun-
kals. Anom travelled to Sintang to fetch his bride, furnished with a heavy golden nose-
gay having a large diamond in tlie centre, but her faithless father had in the meantime
married her to another prince.
Pangeran Anom then declared war against Sintang, and collecting his prows issued
from the Karbouw river and ascended the Mendouw to the interior. Passing Sangouw he
called on the princes of Sekadouw, Sepouw and Blitang to make common cause with
him unless they wished to consider themselves his enemies. All these small states, whose
names have hitherto not appeared in history, must be reckoned as colonies of Succadana,
the historical accounts adding that till now Sangoinv had no other princes than Dyak
chiefs, though this is difficult to reconcile with what; has been said above regarding the
origin of the Sangouw royal family.
On Anom arriving before Sintang a fierce engagement took place. Patau was soon
put to flight, but one of the principal chief^i named Malunak, who conducted the defence
of the left bank, where the town formerly stood and where the graves of the chiefs are still
to be seen, offered a stout resistance and only j'ielded at last under the threat, that, if he
did not immediately throw down his arms, Sintang should he levelled to the ground.
Pangeran Anom made a moderate use of his victory, reinstating Putan in the govern-
ment. ..
Panembalian Ayer Mala was the next prince
;
he, though long of age, had delegated
the functions of government to Anom till the period of his decease. Ayer Mala protected
trade and commerce, felled jungles, laid out ground for agriculture and built vessels.
The excavation of tin was carried on in his reign ; the metal is found to this day in the
vicinity of the Katuntong river, whose bed contains tin and irou ore. Panembahan Ayer
Mala was culled thus after a place above Succadana, where he is also buried.
Ayer Mala Avas succeeded by Di Barut, or in full IPanembahau di Barut Sungi Matan.
His reign was remarkable for two events, the founding of the now entirely decayed town
of Matan, after which the Kingdom of J!klatan is still called although its remains are in
Sintang, and the arrival of the first Mahomedan missionaries.
These were Arabs from Palembang, and it is thought first preached their faith about
A. D. 1550. Di Barut remained faithful to his creed ; he bore the character of being a
brave intrepid man, a great hunter, and do feared that, at the sound of his voice troopH of
warriors trembled and obeyed. He died at a great age, about A. D. 1590, being buried at
Lalang on Bukit Laut.
The rule of his aon and successor Panembahan Giri Koesama, is- remarkable in the
history of Borneo in more than one respect. Mahomedanism triumphed in Succadana aud
Matan
;
the prince embraced the new creed, and married, about A. D. 1600, Putri Bunku,
daugliter of Prabo^Raja of Landak.
It has ah-eady been said that on the site of the present iMatan, tliere stood a town,
Aucra or Angrat, the residence of a Fatti wlio ruled in the name of the Sultan of Majapait.
These pattis were- probably the founders of the royal house that became independent with
the fall of Majapait, and at the time of the introduction of Mohamcdauisra seven pattis
had ruled at Angrat, all bearing the name of Pulang Pale/
The last of these princes dreamt he had found in hia Kingdom a maiden of surpass-
ing beauty. Burning with a desire to unite with her whose image had appeared to hira,
he caused her to be sought every where, till at length she "n.as discovered in the village
(deasa) of Salimpat in the person of one Dara Itam, who however refused to come to hira,
so that artifice had to be resorted to. Dara Itam was said to be a great doctoress; the
prince, feigning sickness, had himself brought before her house in a boat, and after great
persuasion, and the depiction of the prince's grievous condition, she was induced to enter
the boat to see her patient; no sooner had she entered than the ropes were cast loose and
the prince carried her off to Angrat, where he married her.
Shortly afterwards a Banjermassin Dyak, by order of his chief, took the head of a
relation of Pulang Pale, who when he heard it swore he would give all he desired to that
man who would bring him the head of the murderer. Ria Sinar, the former lover of Dara
Itam, to whom she had been betrothed, gratified the prince's wish, and in return claimed
to choose one of his wives
;
the prince, recollecting his oath, could not refuse, and although
Dara Itam was ordered to blacken her face with ashes and charcoal, Ria Sinar recognized
and claimed her, and took her to the village of Jiring on the Bentjuki river. On Dara
Itam confessing to him with shame that she was px'egnant, their marriage was deferred
till after her confinement, when she brought into the world a son, who at her desire was
called Abdul-Kahir, a universal Arab name meaning servant of the Almighty, so we may
conclude that Dara Itam was already acquainted with the Mahomedan creed, the which
her son afterwards professed.
Pulang Pale became half insane at the loss of his favorite wife, and at his death, the
country fell into great confusion
;
the population had declined, and the chiefs or penggaras
had retired, some to Java and Sumatra, others to Sambas and Succadana.
On reaching man's estate, Abdul-Kahir shewed his adventurous character, and keep-
ing in mind his royal descent, determined to found a new kingdom witli the capital at
Monggo; he collected the scattered population in the new village, and remained faithful
to a promise he had made to hia step-sister never to impose a tax in his country. He was
the founder of the Mahomedan dynasty known in Bornean history under the name of
Landak.
It may be urged that the above are but legends imd traditions, mere fables, worthless
from an historical point of view, so interwoven with wild and extravagant narratives and
stories, that no dependence can be placed on them, and that therefore we must dismiss
them as unreliable, and deceptive and useless as guides to the past of the Land Dyaks.
Granting a certain weight to attach to these arguments, we must still maintain that
it is in legends and traditions, as well as in language, manners and customs, that we must
seek for the early history of a people, and as regards these particular legends and tradi-
tions, they may be so overlaid with fable and romance, that it may be difficult and in some
instances impossible in the present state of our information to define the borders which
separate them from history.
But, if we consider the question of the traces of Hinduism among the Land Dyaks
in all its bearings, we must I think arrive at the conclusion that the account we have
given of these Uindu kingdoms, or settlements as they should perhaps be called, is fully
in accordance with what we know of the existence of vestiges of Hinduism among the
Dyaks,
whether, as regards the stone figures,' utensils and remains, which are and have
TIic Sarawak Dyaks have the same tratlitions and assert that many ages ago the
'vvhole country was under water and only the tops of the hijrhest mountains such as Pen-
irisflcu, Matang, and Sibungo were visible above the sea level. In old ilays they say ships
.and boats came right across from what is now the Sambas coast jiast the Sibungo range,
to Sarawak. A small columnar mountain mid-way between Gurabang and Gading",
called Ji'mas, was then only just above water and prows used to touch there for ballast aud
-big stones for anchors. What importance we may attach to these traditions and stories
I leave geologists to decide, but it is very evident that the whole of Upper Sarawak ha,s
all the appearance of having been at sometime under, and exposed to the action of water.
Who, then, are the Land DyaUs aud from whence have they come ? This is no easy
.-question to answer. I may sum uj) by repeating that the Sarawak Dyaks came in the first
f instance from Sjzibug, and if the legend quoted above can be believed in, they the Siigbng^'<^
came from across the sea.
^
The traces of Hinduism so thoroughly pervade the manners, cus-
mIn""heLanrD''"k^-'"
*^' *"^^ I'sligious observances of these Dyaks, that it seems super-
.mong le an ya "s.
fluQ^g ^q refer to them; Low, St. John, Ohalmers and others have
written and described them so fulh-, that it seems a work of supererogation to try to add
more to the information we already possess from these soiu'ces.
Still the questions may be asked, how comes it that Hinduism so thoroughly per-
vades the Dyak customs and manners, both social and religious ? to whom are they
indebted for the same? and when and how came it; to pass that the Land Dyaks were
Bubservient to Hindu rule ?
In studying the various vrorks on Sarawak by English authors I can find no reply to
the above questions; local tradition points to Santubong a.-3 having been perhaps an in-
portant Hindu settlement, aud from the many gold and other articles of Hindu manufac-
ture continually being found both there and in Kuchiug and its neighbourhood, this
settlement might in a measure supply answer.^ to the queries.
Bat there are even stronger evidences of the existence not only of Hindu settle-
ments but of Hindu governments on the west coast of Borneo, iind in laying an account of
lliesc before mj- readers I iiiust take this opportunity of acknowledging the deep obliga-
tion I am under to Veth's admirable work
"
Borneo's Wester Afdeling" and the authors
therein quoted, for much of the information I have been able to collect on this most
interesting subject ; in fact it is from this work that the following notes are copied and
compiled.
Javanese history teaches us that the powerful Hindu kingdom of Ma,japait, which.
.between a. d, 1299 and a. d, 1475 or 1478 (when it was subverted by the Mahomedans)
exercised great influence over the Archipelago as well as Java, had many settlements on
the neighbouring islands, amongst which Borneo seems especially to have been colonized
by the Hindu-Javanese of Alajapait.
Among Malayan manuscripts we possess a remarkable list of numerous countries and
states of the Indian Archipelago which were considered ,to owe allegiance to Majapait.
This list was communicated and discussed by Dulaurier in an article in
"
Le Journal
Asiatique" June 1846 Pages 544, 71, entitled
'
Liste des pays qui relevaient du i'oyaumf''*?^
de Madjapait a
1'
epoque de sa destruction en
1475"'
and if we may believe the above thea
not only must Baujermassin and Kota Waringin in the South and Succadana in the
Soathwest coast, (which is generally confirmed and acknowledged by many traditions)
be
considered as colonies and def)endencies of Majapait, but also Pasir and Koti on the
a8t and Sambas and Marapawa with the Kariraata islands on the west coast.
According to another account, the countries in Borneo subject to Majapait were
foverned by seven Hegents or Pattis, of whom the chief or Head Regent was settled at
Angra or Angrat, which Tobias tell us was situated a few hours to the northward of
Poutianak, and Gronovius considers as the capital of the kingdom which later gained
the
name of Landak, aud which he identifies with the site of the present village of Mandor,
The other Hindu-Javanese regents seem to have been placed over Mampawa,
Sambas, Sangouw and Sintang, while the fifth had his residence on the north coast, while
the
seat of the other may perhaps be found on the south and east coasts.
10
Dutcli authors say that the traditioua of the Avcst coast of Borneo arc unaiiinious ia^
ascribing to Majapait the foundation of Succadana. Succadana is the only kingdom
accordin;^ to the above authority of which we have a continuous history. AJthongh thia
history is greatly
interwoven with fable, especially at its commencement it ia worth
quoting- here, as even in its extravagance we can find traces of truth, though it may be
difficult to define where fable oversteps history.
"When Majapait fell, all the states subject to it on the west of Borneo, in whatever
way acquired, seem to have been transferred to Succadana. The history of Succadana
thus forms the centre for the west coast, until at least the rise of Pontianalc.
I am again indebted to Veth for the following historical legends liearing on the intro-
duction of Hinduism into western Borneo, based as they are on the writings of Muller,
Gronovius, Tobias, Netscher, Van Lynden and others.
,
Brawidjaja, of the royal house of Majapait, suffbred from an infectious disease, and to
prevent contagion was domiciled in a floating house or raft. A violent tempest tore the
raft loose from its moorings, and carried the prince far out to sen, where he was exposed to
great danger. The current drifted him to the mouth of the Pawan river (called Kafapan)
on the west coast of Borneo. The prince benefitted greatly by the sea voyage, bathed
daily in the river, a small fish with the, head of a cat called "adong," or
"
blangiiting"
aiding materially his speedy return to convalescence by repeatedly licking his feet ; an-
alligator called Warassa providing his daily wants.
When convalescent the prince went hunting deer with two dogs he had brought with
him. One day the dogs, barking furiously, stopped before a thick bamboo stem, into which
the prince, after a long scrutiny, stuck his spear, which when withdrawn, th.'ie sprun'^ to
view from the opening a beautiful princess, who t'lrjwing herself at the feet of Brawidjaja
besought him to spare her and the bamboo.
The priuc3 bore Putri IJutan, as she was called, to his raft, imploring her to share
his lot with him, and it may be inferred he had not long to sigh in vain. Brawidjaja had
found no other sign of the presence of human beings except that here and thire wood
had been cut. He therefore again ascended the river some days' journey further up, but
with the like result, till at last, returning at a rapid pace, a water flower shot up suddenly
above the stream, from whence a whisper issued asking "Brawidjaja, what news bring you
from the upper country?"
Dropping his paddle the prince seized the flower with both hands
;
it opened, and the-
princess Lindong l.Suali stood before him. The same :ice:ie was now enacted as with
Putri Butan ;
the prince obtained two wives, who appear to have lived together in peace,
without jealousy, sharing between them the proofs of his affection.
Having now two wives, Brawidjaja built a house near where Kaping, the capital of
Matan, now stands. Hiiving laid out rice-fields, he again ascended into the interior, where
penetrating further than he had hitherto done, he met with some Dyaks who at once
hailed him as their king, explaining that they had long looked forward to a ruler, and
he
had come as one called ; others say, that his teaching them the use of salt created this ho-
mage, and that this same necessary gradually extended' his power. He appointed
chiefs
everywhere, who ruling in his name, paid him tribute. The people of Meliouw complain-
in"- of oppression by one of his deputies, he sent thither his sun Gosti Likar, who
settled
there as Regent.
^
Visiting the spot where later flourished the counry of Succadana, and prompted oy
the beauty of the situation, Brawidjaja erected a residence and collected persons
together
there, so that he may be considered the founder of the place. He spent the last years
ot
his reign at Succadana, and died there, being buried on the neighbouring
hill Bnkit Laut,
having done much for the civilization of Borneo.
Brawidjaja was succeeded by his eldest sou Raja Bapurang, who gave the rule
over
Tajan in feudal tenure to his younger brother Pangeran Mantjar. Many Dyaks
now
settled at Succadana, Bapurang at the same time enlarging the former seat of government,
now
generally called Kota Lama. His daughter married the Regent of Sangouw,
whence
sprung the royal family of Sangouw.
Bapurang on his death was succeeded by his son Pangeran Karang-Tlinjiiug,
wh<J
was the first prince who took the title of Panembahau; Like Solomon, the Almighty at
hi*
11
Missing Page
Missing Page
What the apostles of Mahomet and their converts had left undone, time and nature
Tvotild have completed; three centuries and a quarter would have almost entirely obli-
terated the vestiges of temples and buildings, and left us to seek in the language, customs
and religious observances of the people for the only trace of the predominance of the-
Hindus on the western coast of Borneo.
Those Hindus who remained faithful to the creed of their forefathers, would doubtless-
"when the mass had embraced Mahomedanism have retirod into the interior, and in jungle
homes, with perhaps Dyak wives, have continued the rites of their religion, worshipping
and adoring the idol they had brought with them. In time these refugees would die out,,
no new converts would be made, and the idol, uncared for and neglected, would be over-
grown and forgotten. The tribe amongst whom the idol or idols had been left would
move to other farming grounds, and thus the very origin of the stone figure would be lost;,
in the course of ages another tribe would settle on the abandoned grounds of those who had
moved elsewhere, and the discovered figure would be looked on and revered as the work of"
spirits.
In the course of my narrative I shall point out how all the Land D3^ak trihes in Upper
Sarawak have continually shifted their settlements. Tribes which at one time were settled
on the Sarawak river are now miles distant on the Sekyamthus prior to A. D. 1848 a
Hindu stone was found at Batn Kawa on the Sarawak river about 6 miles above Kuching ;.
JSJhe Serambo Dyaks, who are now those nearest to the spot where the stone ^xas
found,
knew nothing of its existence nor have they any traditions as to its originimtffliere is a
tribe of Land Dyaks, the Sipanjangs who have years, gone past migrated to the Sekj'-am but
who were settled at Rantu Panjang, nearer Batu Kawa,than the Serambos now are, before-
the Serambo Dyaks came into Sarawak waters, and it is just possible that with the Sipan-
jangs may still exist some tradition of the origin of this Hindu stone
;
at all events it is-
more likely to be found with them than with the Serambos,- though the Sipanjangs again
may only have supplanted in their turn some earlier tribe.
I may add in conclusion that many important traces of a Hindu occupation of Borneo-
are to be met with in various parts of the island.
Not many years ago the remains of Hindu idols were to be 'seen at Sangouw, on a hill
on the right hand branch of the Sekyam river, in the vicinity of the capital, l3ut which
have now disappeared. They consisted of a rude Ganesa, a Nandi, and a Lingam, and
were sketched in A. D. 1823 by MuUer, the Dutch traveller; nothing now remains on the
liill but the traces of a sandstone wall. A little higher up on the same side of the river,
an inscribed stone was met with called Batu Sampei, of ^yhich two drawings were taken
"by Mailer and Van Henrici conjointlyand on the other side of the river, on the so-called
Mungo Batu, a mass of ruins of baked red stone was also discovered. The inscription on
the inscribed stone was taken to be Kawi, and it seems from Tobias's official report that
Millies attempted the following translation, the accuracy of which however may be taken
as doubtful
:

" Senkala
"
or the year
"
110, this excellent work terrifies the soul and makes
known the three destines: life, death and paradise."* This may mean Brahma, Vishnu
and Siva, for the Hindus while ackijowledging but one great first cause, observed at au
early period that the three chief leading features in the phases of nature were creation,
duration or preservation, and decay, which they personifed and individualized under the
names of the above Gods.
^
-
_
The traveller Van Henrici proves Hindu remains to have existed at Margasari ou
the Negara river in the upper districts of Banjermassin, regarding which a tradition is
interwoven of a veritable colony of Hindus (Orang Kling) who had existed in that
country, and I cannot do better than sum up this long digression by extracting the follow-
ing from Dalton'a
"
Essay on the Dyaks of Borneo
"
f
in which he says, writing of Waghoo
on the Coti river 400 miles from the coast
:

"
I have seen the remains of temples and pagodas similar to those found on the
"
Continent of India, bearing all the traits of Hindu mythology
;
I cannot be mistaken, hav-
"
ing travelled in Bengal as well as the Coromandel coast,lilewise over most parts of Java,
**
where such remains are common, besides I have with^lie fac-similes of several temples
*
Vetb, Borneo's Wester-Afdeeling Vol. 1,
page3 45 and 46.
t
Moor, iToticea of the Indian Ai-chipelago, pages 41 and 42.
13
" discovered oq the latter island, wifch prints of many of the pagodas in India. The re-
ti
gemblance is exact, as are the images on statues which are found in precisely the same
< position as they are to be seen in Continental India, Java and some other islands of the
<' Archipelago. I have seen some hundred stone images of such description, and many of
II
brass
;
the latter however are not so common, as I have reason to boKlieve the Dyaks melt
I' those
of
that metal to fabricate fish-hooks, rings and other articles
of
decoration. In most
" of the pagodas and temples, both within and without are to be seen, in tolerable good
"preservation, hieroglj'phical characters used by the Hindus many
of these, as well as the
images, are much broken and defaced by the agis or Mahometan priests, and theirfollowers
I'
the Arabs, who, will tolerate no absurdities but their own."
Again, in the Journal of the Indian Archipelago, in a paper entitled
"
Journal of a
Tour on the Eapuas in 1840."
I meet with the following :

"
Prom Sanqauw we set out to visit a rock with inscriptions on the right bank of the
"
Sekyam. It is now called Batu Titlis, formerly Batu Sampki, because the chiefs and
" other in previous years always stopped here in ascending the river. About
:i-
of a mile
"above the mouth of the stream we came to a small rocky glenhere we stopped and
ascended the bank."
***** ***
"
At the distance of between 15 and 20 rods from the bank of the Sekyam and at an
" elevation of some 30 feet above the level of its waters we reached the spot. We had

heard of the inscription at Pontianak, but always imagined that it was to be found on
"
some stone or stones belonging to the ruins of.some sacred edifice. "What was our sur-
"
prise, thenj to find the letters cut in a solid perpendicular rock about 12 ieet in length and
"
6 feet in height, extending quite across the ravine over which the water was falling in a
"
liquid cascade. The space covered by the characters is about 4 feet by two of the per-
"
pendicular surface of the rock. The general opinion here amongst those who venture
"
one, is that the language is Sanscrit and the inscriptions are the relics of Hinduism.
"
Confirmatory of this opinion, it seems to us, is the fact that on the Spau, another branch
"of the Kapuas a little further up, have been found rude images of the sacred Cow. A
"few years since slabs with inscriptions and the image of tie female sculptured in stone
"
were taken from the vicinity of Sangauw, and shipped for Batavia, but the vessel was
"lost on the passage." Journal
of
Tour on the Kapuas in 1840, Journal Indian Archipelago
Vol. I. If. S. Fag^B^ /^~&X-
14
CHAPTER II.
Ascent of the Sarawak riverLedah TanahBelidaSiniawanThe Serambo tribe of Land
DyaksPakuBusuThe Hue or Secret Society at BauChinese population in Upper Sarawak

Export of Ore from Upper SarawakThe Siughi tribe of Land Dyaks.

On the morning of the 25fch of July, 1874, I started to ascend the Sarawak river on
my long contemplated trip amongst those Land Dyaks who form a part of the Residency
of Sarawak Proper.
. My party consisted of four Malays who composed the crew of my boat, a common,
up-river "Jalur Dyalc," my boy Kassim, and a Malay Inchi, a man who had some know-
ledge and experience of the Land Dyaks, having formerly been in charge of them, and
on whom I looked as my guide for he was well acquainted with the country and the
localities of the different Dyak villages and tribes.
At about 1 P. M. we reached Ledah Tanah, called thus, from its being a projection
L d h T h
^^ promontory at the junction of the southern and western branches of
the Sarawak river. There is a tradition, T believe, that the town of
Sarawak was once established on this spot, on the other hand the Sipanjang Dyaks of
Sekyam told me they or rather their ancestors had once farmed here, and their settle-
ments had extended as far as Rantau Panjang lower down the river on the left bank, and
they claimed having planted the fruit trees which are scattered about here and there in
the neighbourhood.
Ledah Tanah is celebrated in the early European history of Sarawak. In 1840 Sir
A James Brooke joined Ma^ota's forces here, and aided him in suppressing the rebellion
which had broken out against the then ruler of the countryRajah Mudah Hassim, an
act which eventually led to Sir James acquiring the territory of Sarawak.
A short distance up the southern branch there issues from the right bank a small
stream from whence the larger river now takes its name. -Continuing the ascent of the
western branch we passed Mungo Panchur, where the rebels in the above conflict had a
fort, and at 3 P. M. reached Belida.
This place was the key of the enemy's position, and it was here that the rebels met
_ ... with their total defeat at the hands of Sir James. A little below Belida on

the left bank is a small stream called Lobok Kradang ; it was to the head
of this stream that Sir James took his yacht's gig, and drawing her over some yards of
intervening land, launched her again on the Sekundis stream, issuing from thence above
Belida he attacked the rebels and inflicted on them that blow which resulted in their des-
truction and the close ofthe war.
After the Chinese insurrection in 1857 when Kuching was burnt to the ground, a
fort was erected here and an European officer administered the Government in the district,
this continued till 1861 when the officer was withdrawn, and a native police force left in
charge ; in 1871 the fort was entirely dismantled and the material transported to Paku to
enlarge the Government station there.
Facing Belida a little higher up the river is the now abandoned village of Siniawaa
. which was close to the water at the foot of an eminence called Gunga Ka-
imawan
miel. Before the war referred to above, this was a flourishing settlement
boasting a considerable Malay population, but being situated in the centre of warlike opera-
tions it suffered severely, and at the close of the war completely dwindled away, the popu-
lation retiring elsewhere, and giving over its possession to the Chinese, who, before erecting
a new settlement for themselves burned up the former buildings. In 1856 Siniawan was
again a prosperous Chinese village with some 300 or 400 inhabitants, in the year follow-
ing it was totally destroyed by the Malays and Sakarran Dj'aks, who, when the Chinese
were driven from Kuching pressed on their rear, and on the Celestials making a stand here
and at Belida drove them out with fearful loss. Nothing now remains to mark the site
of
15
these settlements
;
one or two Chinese are eking out a bare existence by cultivating small
gardens, but the whole place is abandoned, and nature in the form of lalang grass, and
secondary
jungle has obliterated all traces of its past prosperity.
I now
landed on the right bank to commence nij ascent of tlie Serambo mountain as
The Serambo
it is cenerally called, though knOAvn to the Dyaks as Gunong ilnau.
tribe of Land
On this mountain 1,700 feet in height are the three villages of Ijombok,
Dyaks.
Peninjauh, and Serambo, the last of these is known to the Dyaka of ihe
western branch as Broich and to those of the southern as Se Karuch.
The
mountain has been so frequently ascended by Europeans, and the ascent and its
difficulties so often and so fully described that I shall pass over this portion of my journey.
The ascent took me about an hour, and the upper part from the immense boulders that
have to be climbed over and surmounted is particularly fatiguing. The first village met
with is Bonibok, and then PeninjauhSerambo lies on the other side facing south.
I took up ray quarters in a small wooden house erected by Sir James Brooke as a
country house on a shoulder of the mountain called Si Dampul, here a portion of the
Peninjauh villagers had formerly a settlement, but the late Rajah purchased their fruit
trees and they moved lower down.
I now found I had started on my tour at a bad time of the year, most of the Dyaks
were absent at their farms, the Orang Kayas of Borabok and Serambo amongst the num-
ber, while the house of the Orang Kaya of Peninjauh was tabooed or pamtili (peniakit)*
owing to the sickness of his child, and it was nearly 7
p.
m. before this headman put in an
appearance. The best time of the year for visiting the Land Dyaks would be in the mouths
of February, March and April, when they are cutting, gathering, and storing the rice crop,
and it is then that the great feasts of Nyipaan, (the feast of first fruits) Makan Taun, Man
Sawa or Nyitungid and Nyipidang Menyopong occur, and the visitor would then find the
people congregated in their villages.
At the period of my visit the felling of the jungle for new paddy clearings was
being carried on or about con'pleted, which a little later would be burnt off, the people
living principally in temporary dwellings near the scene of their work. The Dyak farm-
ing-grounds or farms as they are called, (though this word must not be used in our sense,
rice-lands would be better) are generally far distant from the village, and are changed each
year, in fact the Dj'aks after farming a tract of land, abandon it for some seveu years, and the
"
result of this wasteful system of cultivation is, that each tribe requires and claims to possess
an immense extent ofjungle, regarding which there are continual inter-tribal disputes.
I shall now proceed to give an account of the three villages ou this mountain, which
I have already classified under one tribe as the Serambo Dyaks, for the reason that these
villages under separate headmen, and distinct and independent in their internal organiza-
tion are from one and the same stock, and though living at slight distances from one
another consider themselves the same people.
The Serambo tribe is the largest and wealthiest on the hill, it is under Orang
Kaya Semassa Mita, it is taxed in 1873 on 80 families or
"
lawangs
"
and as well
as all families of the other Land Dyak tribes pays 3 passus of rice or
$3
per family,
these then at $3
pay ... ... ... ... ...
$
240
In addition to this the tribe paid Government in 1873 6,000 birds-nestsf as
their share weighing 96 catties sold at $3.05 ... ... ...
,,292
$
632
The Peninjauh village under Orang Kaya Muda, Nijoh was taxed in 1873 at
33 families or
"
lawangs
" which at
$3.
Total ...$ 99
No nests are paid.
Carried forward
$
631

Pamali Peniakit or Porich Beruri or Parich Berandam as the Dyaka would say is the taboo of a
Tillage or house for sickness for a certain period which varies in duration. In the present instance it
was for the Orang Blaya'a childPamali is a Malay word, the Dyak is Parich.
t
The principal caves wher the edible birds nests are found by this tribe are those of Sijang, Staat,
Utak Mawan. Utak Jimbeng and Utak Plindak. The Sipang caves yield the greatest number of nests
and the Staat caves a better quality.
16
Bi-oughfc forward
$
631
The Bombok village under Orang Kaya, Sifciya Bisi was taxed in 1873 at 30
families or "lawangs" wliicli at $3 ... ... ... ... $
90
No nests are paid.
The annual total revenue in 1873
of
the Seramho tribe being $ 721
The Orang Kaya of Serambo, Mita, haa from his youth up been a trouble to the
(government, he is a lying, shuffling, unscrupulous, cunning old blackguard, addicted to
drink and (^uite as willing to impose on his own people as on the authorities. Mita alias
Pa N' Ahten was dismissed from his position as chief of the tribe by Sir James Brooke
for the part he took in the Chinese insurrection, and Pa Nujume substituted. Mita was
not re-instated till 1866.
Nijoh, the Orang Kaya of Peninjauh is a very different stamp of man, willing, cheer-
ful and obliging, he was constantly visiting me at Paku and I always found him straight
forward in his dealings in fact as good a type of a Dyak headman as any in Upper Sara-
wak.
I know little of the Orang Kaya of Bombok ; he generally kept very much to him-
self, seldom visiting the Government station, and in the execution of any duties with
which he was entrusted he was slow, evasive, procrastinating, and usually gave me trouble.
The accounts of these Dyaks as regards their paddy crop is the same oft-repeated
story of its insufficiency, and not being enough to supply the villager's own wants. The
miserable system of cultivation, and the delay and procrastination attendant upon waiting
for propitious omens continually causes the Dyaks to lose the best days ofthe months.
To those of my readers who are interested in the pedigree of the Land Dyak tribes I
would refer them to Appendix A. Chapter II. where will be found the, table of descent of
the Serambo and Singhi tribes as given me by these Dyaks themse^es.
On asking the Dyaks whether they brought the custom of head-hunting with them
from Sikong, they replied when they first came from Sikong they only took the hair (the
scalp I suppose) but a Peninjauh woman one Si Tugi told them it was no'use taking hair
only, the country was put to shame by this half measure, why not talce the whole liead of
their enemies ? Their enemies in those days were the Tropings near Sidin, whose Rajah
was Sobing, but they had others also such as the Tawangs, Trebongs, Si Puttnups, Si
Taddan and Si Pngit Dyaks, who also all came originally from Sikong, and were known
as Dyak Lallah who was a relation of Stamod's.
The Serambo Dyaks say they will not take a head from, a corpse. On this account
they obtained few heads during the Chinese insurrection. They tell a story ofTabiah
Dyaks during the insurrection, killing and taking the head of a Chinese whose companions
came up afterwards and hurriedly buried the body. Some Sakarran (Sea) Dyaks who were
following the Chinese perceiving the newly made grave, opened it in hopes of getting the
head, and were disappointed for their trouble.
The Dyaks on this hill burn all their dead, and not only those of the better class as
some seem to imagine, the scale of prices is arranged to suit the means of-all, the lowest is
four tarapayangs, and rises in proportion to the wealth of the deceased. Peninjauh and
Bombok have no sexton (belal or peninu) and are therefore dependent on Serambo for this
official, the office is hereditary, but the children of the late sexton of the above named
villages refuse to act.
From all I can lenru regarding marriage among these Dyaks they may inter-marry
where and with what tribes they choose, but they all seem to prefer marrying in their own
village, the women object to being taken from their homes, and the men to following their
wives as is the Dyak custom. "When a Dyak marries he enters the family of his wife,
and lives in her parent's house till the couple set up for themselves, which is generally not
for some time afterwards, though in some cases Avhen the bride is one of a large family, or
the husband has others dependent on him, tliis custom may be reversed, and the woman
go over to the man's dwelling.
The Serambo tribe refrain from eating beef, and this is the case with all the tribes, in
some
instances deer is tabooed food, except for boys and women and this applies particularly
to the Sinuiii and Eukar Dyak.i, who will not allow ;i deer to be cut up in their villages;
the bull and cow are in fact forbidden as food by all the Land Dyaka of Upper Sarawak.
17
Early the next
morning I walked through the three villag'cs occasionally entering the
houses
and talking to the occupants, many houses however stood empty, their owners being
absent at their
farms. Tiie Orang Kaya of Peninjauh excused himself from inviting us
into his
dwelling,
the building being still under
"
pamali."
I found the villages just as dirty as ever, filth and refuse had accumulated under the
houses, and pigs, dogs, and fowls seemed to enjoy revelling in the accumulated mass.
The village of Serambo has two head-houses with an aggregate of 95 hands, Bonil)ok
and reninjauh
have each a head house, the former Avith 41 heads and the latter with 129.
No Land
Dyak tribe, say the Peninjaus can compete with them in the number of skulls.
The Coffee
planted by the Dyaks on this mountain by order of the Government has
entirely failed,
some of the stems of the trees have grown to a great size but they are pow
attacked by a grub or worm that bores in and around the trunks of the trees.
As the dress of the Serambo Dyaks is similar to that of the Singhis and the Sauhs, I
shall defer a description of the same till I reach the latter tribe. I could obtain no speci-
mens of native carving in the village, though doubtless they are to be met with.
I left Serambo village in the afternoon in a very heavy shower of rain which made
the large stones to be traversed slippery and dangerous. On niy way down attention was
called to the flat stone described by St. John in his "Forests of the Far East." When
water is found in the hollow of the stone's top, it portends a sickly season for the tribe, of
course if it rains it is full, but according to the Dyaks the water soon dries up, it is only
when sickness portends that the water remains.
In concluding my account of this tribe I may add that the three villages are surround-
ed by the finest fruit-trees, and that although these Dyaks plant only a few vegetables for
their own use, they are not badly offjvespecially the Serambos, who are wealthy on account
of their birds nests, and the Dyaks of these three villages are good boat-builders and boat-
men. These villages from their being the nearest to Kuching, and from the fact of there
being a bungalow on the mountain have been more visited by Europeans than any other
tribe. I have often regretted that no visitor's book has been kept at the bungalow, for it
would have registered some distinguished as well as notorious names such as, for instance,
Sir James Brooke, Keppel, "Wallace, Ida PfeifPer, and Theresa Longworth, alias Lady
Avonmore, &c. &o.
A three miles walk, over an undulating country on a fair path brought me to the
p
, Chinese village of Paku, where is stationed the Government officer in
charge of the district. The fort as it is called is a small block-house on a
hill which commands the village, and at the foot of the hill is the lock-up, Court-House
and quarters for six or eight policemen. The duties of the officer in charge here are purely
mag'isterial, and his jurisdiction extends over the Chinese settlements of Jambusan, Ban,
Busu (where there are also ]\Ialay kampongs) and Bedi, to/gether with Tegora some 12 mile
distant where" there is a large population of Chinese, Malays, and Sambas Dyaks employed
by the Borneo Company in excavating cinnabar, to be transmuted into quicksilver at their
furnaces there. The Magistrate of Paku has also to keep a watchful eye over the Hu6 or
Secret Society whose head-quarters is, and always has been among the gold miners at Bau,
and which Hu6 is a branch of the larger one at Sambas.
The Hu^ or Secret Society has always been a sore in the side of Sarawak, it seems
TheHu^or Secret
impossible to suppress it, notwithstanding that Government has taken
Society at Bau.
the strongest measures with a view to its eradiction. The Hue' has still
its perfect organization, and its power increases and decreases /ui proportion to the number
of Chinese in the district. It may be said that nearly every country-born Chinese in Upper
Sarawak and many others belong to this Society.
It was from Bau, then a large and flourishing settlement, that in 1857 the Hue orga-
nized its attack on Kuching which led to the destruction of the capital. Again in 1869
the Hue raised its hand in opposition to the Government, and murdered an informer in a
barbarous and almost open manner. Strong measures were at once taken by the Eesident
of
Sarawak then administering the Government during the Rajah's absence, and thanks to
the energy displayed by the Assistant Resident in charge of the district, the whole of the
lieadraen were arrested. I accompanied him on this duty, and hope some day to write a
short account of what was then done. By an unlucky oversiglit, the books, papers, and
registers of the Hu6 were not seized. Though the house in which they were known to be
18
secreted was thoroughly searched, they could not be found, and it waa afterwards learntj
that they had been placed between two planka in a bed place, which had been turned up-'
aide down in the search. The lieadraen were all irapriaoned, and when their respective!
terms of punishment had expired, were banished the country, but when in charge at Paku
I well knew that orders had arrived from the head Hu6 at Sambas appointing new officers
|
and re-organizing the Society.
I have stated that nearly the whole Chinese population of Upper Sarawak who ai-e
;
all again connected with the Sambas Chinese may be said to belong to this Hu6, it is
therefore no easy matter to suppress, as the great Sambas Hue aids and abets it ; such is
'
the terror that the Chinese have for this Hu6 that it is almost impossible to induce them
even to speak of it.
The best plan to adopt perhaps would be to allow of the existence of the Hue, under
a strict regulation that every member should be registered in the police books and every i
one found affiliated without notice to the Government should be hanged. It is most
:
necessary to keep a strict and severe rule over these societies as their power for mischief is
great in the extreme, and there is no knowing to what lengths they may not proceed. j
As the law now stands in Sarawak the simple fact of a man belonging to the Secret
!
Society would entail his death, but this law is practically a dead letter, and would be al-
most impossible to carry out from the difficulty of procuring proof, and as very many of
the Chinese have been affiliated before entering the country, and cannot leave the Hue af-
ter once entering it, the law of the Hu6 for such an offence being also death, they lind
themselves in an awkward predicament.
In a shifting mining population such as that of Upper Sarawak, where the Chinese
are continually passing and re-passing the frontier, it would be a troublesome task to carry
out a system of registration, but it seems the only solution of the difficulty.
The Chinese population, of Upper Sarawak when the last census was taken in 1869
The Chinese po-
amounted to 1111 souls, this was however before the Borneo Company
pulation of Up- had engaged in mining operations at Tegora; in 1870 the number had
per Sarawak.
greatly increased though in the last year or so, it niay have slightly
fallen oft'. The Chinese throughout the district are all more or less interested or engaged
in mining pursuits whether it be antimony or cinnabar working for the Borneo Company,
or gold raining on their own account. In this last pursuit they are scattered over the
whole face of tlie country, though Ban is the chief gold raining settlement.
Export of Ore
'^^^^
export of Ore the produce- of the mining operations
from Upper Sa- carried on by the Borneo Company in Upper Sarawak amounted
rawak.
in 1873 to:
1,667 tons Sulphide of Antimony valued at ... ... ...
$
88,197
342 tons Oxide of Antimony ... ,,10,672
1,505 flasks of Quicksilver ... ... .. ... . .

86,35o
$185,324
The royalty received by the Government on these minerals amounted in 1873 to
3,000
for the Antimony, and 1,000 for the quicksilver, thus m all ^4,000,. Tvhich at
exchange
of
i/2 would give $19,200 which may be taken as the Government revenue
for
1873
for
the minerals in this district, the gold workers paying nothing.
But, to resume, after enjoying the hospitality of my brother officer at Paku, I pushed
on the same evening to Jambusan where I was the guest for the night of the Borneo Co's
employe who is stationed here, and the next day proceeded to Busu, where I met my boat
which had in the meantime ascended the river, my destination being the Singhi tribe of
Land Dyaks.
Buau on the right bank of the Sarawak river is abont 25 miles from Kuching and the
landing place for this part of the country, the river being navigable so far
^^^'-
for praus loading 30 koyans; it is from this place that the whole of the
antimony ore raised by the Borneo Company is shipped to their godowns in Kuching.
A few minutes pull from Busu brought me to the landing-place of the Singhi Dyaks
The
Singhi vil-
whose village is on a mountain called Singhi by Europeans and Malays,
lage aud tribe of and Tingga by the Dyaks. An hour's walk over what is good ground
Land
Dyaks.
jq fijie weather, but, which would be slippery aud treacherous after rain
19
brought me to the foot of the mountain 1695 feet in height, on a shoulder of which about
halfway up is the village of Singhi or Singgai as the inhabitants would call it.
The ascent to the village is steep, but the stones or boulders being small and placed
close together, climbing here does not entail the fatigue attendant upon ascending Serambo.
I took up my residence at the Orang Kaya's house who produced his best mats and beat
his largest gongs and chauaugs to show his pleasure and enjoyment at seeing a European
in his dwelling.
Before
describing this village and its inhabitants I shall give a short account of the
history of the Singhi tribe, at the time of their first coming under European rule.
In 1842 the tribe was estimated at about 800 males, the inaccessible i)Osition of tlieir
village had protected them from the attacks of Malays and Sea Dyaks; they had never
been overthrown
and ruined like the other tribes and were consequently wealthy and
independent.
At this period of their history their chief was one Pa Eemban, an able, bold, unscru-
pulous man, whose name even now is rarely mentioned by the Land Dyaks without a cer-
tain respect, arising from fear, caused by the recollection of his. many daring and sanguin-
ary deeds.
Sir James Brooke in his efforts to suppress head-hunting amongst these Dyaks had re-
peatedly cautioned this man and his panglima or head warrior, Si Tummo, against their
nial-practices and had pointed out to them that he had fully resolved to maintain his
policy^nd that the result of a continuation of their disobedience and defiance of his autlio-
rity^ would lead to the very severest measures being taken on the part of the Eajah's
government. This was imperative as Pa Remban was not only a talented but a danger-
ous man, his influence extending during a life time of 60 years and a rule of 30 had been
ruinous to the Dyak character, and he exercised such power not only over his own people
but even over the Sauh tribe, that it would sooner or later have become a question who
was to rule the Dyak country.
Finding Pa Remban pay no heed to his remonstrances Sir James deposed him and as
a large proportion of the tribe were attached to a chief named Bibit, he was substituted as
Orang Kara. Pa Remban taunted this chief with his want of courage and dared him to
go on the war path with him. On this Bibit took a head from a tribe fiir out of the Sara-
wak territory. Pa Remban on the other hand sent 40 men to Simpoke, who confounding
friends Avith foes took 5 heads from the Sarawak tribe of Sign, who retaliating took 2 from
the Sing-his.
On hearing what had occurred Sir James at once proceeded to Singhi, and calling the
chiefs together and expressing his dissatisfaction, ordered the heads to be returned to the
Sigus. To this Pa Remban demiirred declaring the heads to be those of Simpoke Dyaks,
but on the appearance of the Sigus on the scene, the Singhis gave way, throwing the blame
on Pa Remban. To this complication was added a claim on the part of the Si Baddat
Dyaks with whom and the Goon tribe, the Singhia had long been at war.
After this Pa Remban threw of all restraint, refused obedience and killed a Sempro
Dyak. Defyhig the authority of the Rajah's goverment, he declined to appear before the
Eajah and Datus, saying he had killed the Semjjro Dyak and others, and would kill more.
It was therefore determined to attack him in his strong-hold, a very formidable under-
taking, as any one can tell who has ascended the Singhi mountain. The nmmit was bar-
ricaded and large stones collected to roll down on the advancing force, who having been
already defeated three times by these same Dyaks during the Siniawau war, had little heart
for the work cut out for thorn.
Dividing his men into three parties Sir James attacked the village from different
directions. One attack proving successful, and one of the tompoks or kampongs being oc-
cupied, the Dyaks saw it was fruitless to resist. Pa R'embau's kampong was next taken
and the fruit-trees destroyed. Even this however was not sufficient and it was not until
the Sempro, Sigu, and Sibuyau Dyaks (these last Sea Dyaks, the terror of the Land Dyaks)
arrived that they laid down their arms. Pa Remban and Si Tumrao surrendered and were
taken to Kuching and tried in full and open Court, and sentenced and executed in
accordance with native custom. Pa Remban had no fear of death and met his fate with
courage ; Si Tummo's heart failed him at the last moment.
The above necessity was a stern one, but the state of the country and the welfare
of
20
ita
inhabitants required it, hesitation or clemency on the part of Sir James would have
been considered weakness, and in a moment the whole of these tribes would have returned
to their barbarous and savage custom of head-hunting, and in indulging in this would
spread ruin and devastation over the whole country. The trial and execution of Pa Rem-
ban was one of the charges brought against Sir James by his enemies and^ weaker
though more malicious charge was never invented for ruining the character of noble and
great man.
^
I have referred to the case of Pa Remban as in talking with Land Dyaks his name is
often brought forward in their village histories as I shall point out further on. Pa Rem-
ban and Rentap (the hero of Sadok) were quoted by the yi Baddat and Sikong Dyaks as
proof of the strength and determination of the Sarawak Government, and how little it was
to be trifled with.
I must now return to the village of Singhi and my arrival at the Orang Kaya's house.
The present Orang Kaya Si Buka is a younger brother of Bibit who was appointed by Sir
James as successor Lo Pa Reraban. Cholera has this year attacked the village when some
21 doors sufterred. Taking the deaths at 2 per door, this would give 42 deaths, amongst
whom was the late .Orang Kaya Panglima Bisut. This Orang Kaya was another bad
.specimen of a Land Dyak and has given me and my successor at Paku, as well as the
authorities at Kuching a great deal of trouble. Lying and fraud were common sius with
this man, and he had been more than once threatened with snperceasion and banishment.
Bisut had not the opportunities for mischief possessed by Pa Remban, for thank God the
country is too settled and the Government too firm to allow of the slightest chance of a
recurrence of such practices, but the Orang Kaya was as cunning and unscrupulous as his
predecessor and was generally doing his best to defraud the Government or some of his
own people. Bisut is however dead and gone and with these remarks I leave his memory
to sleep in peace.
I spent the night to a late hour talking with the present Orang Kaya Si Buka, a
quiet, grave personage, with a sad melancholy cast of countenance such as is often encoun-
tered amongst the Land Dyaks and in which can be read better than in a book the history
of years of oppression, rapine andwar which these people have had to undergo till the late
Rajah came among them as a friend and deliverer, and when one contrasts the past of these
unfortunate Dyaks with their present condition, it is not surprising, that the memory of
Sir James Brooke is still revered and worshipped by these tribes.
The village in which I had taken up my quarters was Pa Ilemban's and the present
Orang Kaya is hi^ son-in-law, who by the death of the late Orang Kaya Si Buka, is now
the ruler of the tribe. The rice crop, this chief told me had at tirst promised well, but rats,
bugs, birds, and all the pests of the jungle had attacked it, and the yield had not come
up to expectation, this and sickness (cholera) which had been and was still prevalent had
not made the year a prosperous one, but this is almost the invariable tale that a European
has to listen to from these people. The Orang Kaya went on to complain that a valuable
Gusi jar which had been for generations in the tribe, and which I knew the Malays had
long coveted had been carried off without one cent of compensation, by a rascally individual
of that nation. I promised to bring the case before the notice of the authorities, and asked
him how he and the other headmen would receive a European officer if stationed among the
Land Dyaks. In his submissive and yielding reply I found it difficult to discover what
were his wishes, but I elicited sufficient I think to leave an impression on my mind that
he thought the Eui'opean about the same as the Malay, as the one seemed never to act
without the other. I know from my own experience that the iVIalays in their dealings with
these people use the name of the Europeans for their own ends and to carry out and justify
many petty schemes of extortion.
The Singhis burn their dead, and the tribe has two sextons, the fees charged are 1
passu of rice for a child, 3 for a boy, 4 for a young man, 5 for a woman and 8 for a full
grown Dyak. I did not succeed in procuring any specimens of carving from this tribe,
though the Singhis I believe can show very successful work in this industry. These Dyaks
are very strict in their rule of abatainiu'.,' from venison, beef or goat's tiesh
; their dress is
almost identical with that of the Serambo and Sauh tribes and shall be described later.
The Orang Kaya here was very averse to my proceeding to Sikong, and repeatedly
fecouiited the dang-er? of the road and the wildnea of the people to induce me not to carry
21
out my plan, I found out afterwards tliat the Singhi, Grogo, anrl Krokong t)jaks liad just
causo to l)c afraid of visiting Sikong, these latter 1 )yaks having an ohl score to reokoii off
on a head-taking expedition ivhich luis not been settled. The Jagui and other .Dyakri told
me it would be dangerous for any Dyak of the th^e above-named tribes to enter the Si-
kong country, a story which the Sikongs and Si B/nddats confirmed.
The Singhi tribe under Oraug Kaya, Si Buka is taxed at 732 families which
at $3 per lawang ... ... ... ... ...
; 2,196
This tribe Avliich-next to tlie Sauhs is the largest of all the Land Dyak tribes, plants
a little sago and some vegetables for their own consumption, but nothing for sale. Fruit
trees also abound. These DyalvS have some fine laud suitable for both rice (sawas) and
sago, and a party of Boyans once tried to induce me to grant them land in the neighbour-
hood of this tribe for cultivating both of these, but from some reason or another the sclieme
never came to anything, though had it been carried out I have but little doubt it would
have been successful.
Gold has also been reported between the foot of the mountain and the river but the
jealousy of the Dyaks for their farming lands has hitherto deterred the Chinese from open-
ing it up.
Next day I -walked through the village and found it the same dirty, filthy place it has
always been, it fully maintain? ifc.s character of being one of the worst of Dyak villages,
though on one or two occasions I have seen it surpassed, noticeably by Goon, Kumpang and
Lanchang. Notwithstanding all this and the sickness which was and is still prevalent the
people appear to prosper and multiply, as I observed a great many children in and about
the houses I passed or entered. There are four Chinese settled in this village, married to
Dyak wives, Malays assert there are more than this number perhaps ten in all, but the
above only were reported to me by the Orang Kara.
The 'Singhi village is divided into 8 tompoks or settlements all of which were visited
by me, though I found it no easy task to steer my way over the small batangs which
formed the path, a slip oft' which would have sunk me ancle deep in all the refuse, garbage
and abomination accumulated by Dyak?. dogs, fowls and droves of pigs.
The 1st tompok is Attas under Orang Kaya Si Buka in the pangga here I found 27
heads
;
the next settlement is Sagung under Pengara Niace, there is a fine view from here
of Gunoi^g Slurandaug. The 3rd tom])ok is Sajuug under Pa Rembuk as Peugara, the
head house boasts 9 heads. I proceeded hence to tompok Down with a head house of. 25
heads; this is under Pengaras Pa Mujin and Pa Giung; the next (5th) tompok is Tanjong
and from a point of the hill in this kampong I had a fine view over the low country,
Pa Kappas is in charge here, the pangga had 14 heads many however were only pieces.
The 6th tompok is Tugung with a head house of 12 heads, and is under Pengara Pa Midi,
leaving this I came to tompok Sagga, its head house contains 12 heads; the 8th tompok is
Gi lok Avhich had no Pengara, the head house containing 16 heads. All these tompoks or
kampongs were more or less in good repair, but surrounded with dirt and refuse the afflu-
via arising from which was almost unbearable.
The houses of the Singhi Dyaks are constructed in blocks of perhaps twelve in one
row, the platform in front being common to all, the verandah which is closed in front is
supported on straight posts, the wall behind and before being upright.
I left Singhi in the afternoon regretting very much I could not make a longer stay with
these people, the Oraug Kaya followed me as far as the pangkalan and pressed me veiy
hard to spend another day in the village.
I had no time to spare and was therefore obliged to decline the Orang Kaya's hospi-
tality, and now pushed my way up the Sarawak river towards the Sauh village of Grogo.
22
Appendix A.
In relating the traditions of the Pcninjauh Dyaks as well as those of others risited, I must claim
the indulgence of my readcra, as they were collected in many instances under circumstances of great
difficulty after long days marches, in crowded head-houses with no knowledge of the Dyak language
and I have had little opportunity of checking and revising what I have collected, but as every thing
must have a begining 1 recount them here as incorrect and incomplete as they must be, they may form
the ground-work for future investigation, and I can only hope they may proved an aid and assistance
to those who follow in my footsteps.
I feel convinced that much of the past history of the Land Dyaks may be extracted from their
traditions by one acquainted with their language, and who has I'esided long enough among the
people to have thoroughly gained their confidence. The study of these Dyaks is very interesting for
there appears to be more true history attached to them and their country than is generally the case
among tlie savage tribes of Borneo, nor should it be forgotten that more than one writer has called
attention to the fact that underlyhig the stratum of historical-mythological outgrowth of Hindu impor-
tation, there are strong traces in their omens, and superstitious rites aud observances of fetishism which
may perhaps assimilate these. Dyaks in their origin with the inhabitants of the Pacific islands.
The Peninjauh Dyaks .say they came originally from Sikong, their leader was a warrior or chief
called Stamod; their first halting place was nt Mukobo, a i-apak between Gumbang and Tringus.
where Stamod died after a residence of about 30 years. He was succeeded as Orang Kaya by his son
Panjab who married aud who, in his tuni, gave way to his son Kantjuq who, on his death, left the
Orang Kayaship to his son Joeub, who was succeeded by his son Kadak.
Kadak left a daughter Pedungan ,who married one Bringa who became chief, their son Sang suc-
ceeded as Orang Kaya. He was succeeded by his son Dad, who was followed by his son vSnwok, whose
son Patin Puosa was his successor being followed by his sou Gimbang, then came Rheum, Kobbong
Koma, Niok, Borak and Siau, all these were Orang Kayas and succeeded their fathers in regular site-
cession at Makobo.
Sian had two sons S'Tuli and Rupak, who both became Orang Kayas, these two went to Rabak at
at the foot of Jambus at the foot of Gunoiig Gading between Gumbang and Jagui while Sian remained
at JMakobo. From Rabak, Ruijak went to Kawang which is not far from Rabak between Grogo and
Siughi, on the banks of the Si '^lang sti-eam. After this S'Tuli and Rupak re-united their people and
went to Bakan between Serapro and Sibungo. Rupak died on the war-path against the Goon Dyaks
being drowned in a freshet by the weight of liis bracelets. S'Tuli went to a feast at Brang covered
with gold ornaments or a gold ornamented coat procured at Bruni, the Brang Dyaks jealous of his
wealth killed him.
S'Tuli was succeeded as Orang Kaya by Sidon who, after living some five yearb at Bakan moved to
Baru below Bakan, he is supposed to have ruled here some 40 years and on his death Ruka his son be-
came Orang Kaya and gave place to a son Lakut, he in his turn to a son Ragi who was followed by a
son Samuk who left the Orang Kayaship to a son Bangow.
This chief's successor was his son Kubung who moved the tribe to Sentah Simbo to the place
where the diamonds are now worked, his son Kanuk then became Orang Blaya and went to Dindin
which is at the foot of Muan (Serambo) near the BJedam stream or on the Si Moba, a small stream on
the right bank of the Sarawak river below Ledah Tanah ; Kanuk was succeeded by Kakar, Mukobo,
Kogi, Kitat and Kombui who all followed their respective fathers in regular succession.
KI;indye succeeded hi.s father and the tribe moved to Peninjauh up the Muan (Serambo) mountain
;
this chief had three sons Konye^who became Orang Kaya/ of Peninjauh, Koum and Kodos who became
Orang Kayas at Bombok, whother at the same time or in succession I cannot say.
Konye was succeeded at his death by his sons Kara and ICadak who both became Orang Kayas'
the former at Peninjauh under the title of Orang Kaya Tumangong, and the latter at Si Dampul as
Orang Kay^ Steer Raja. Kara had a son Korut, Orang Elaya of Peninjauh, and his son Jukar was one
of the persons who assisted in giving me the above information. Kaddak had a son Kurik who in his
turn became Orang Kaya Steer Raja of Peninjauh raid his son is the persent Orang Kaya.
I havo not been so fortunate with the pedigree of the Serambo Dyaks, I only know that they
descend from Rupak. It will be remembered that Orang Kaya Rupak settled with S"ruli at Bakan and
on their death Sidon the son of S'Tuli succeeded and removed to Baru. Rupak had a step-son the child
by her first husband of a widow whom he had married uamed Bunga who remained at Bakan as Orang
Kaya,
his son Patan was the next Orang Kaya and moved his portion of the tribe to Sungie Piuang
which issues from the left bank of the Sarawak river about
^
an hours pull above Belida. Patau's son
Korud
was the next chief, who was succeeded by another, whose son Mukurung took a following to
Beratak hence the Sauh tribe. This is the extent of my information regarding the Serambo tribe ex-
cept that
Mukurung appears to have had two sons.
23
Another story of the origin of th Serambos is that in the time of the Malays onn Nftlchoda Jambi
went one day in the jungle with his dogs, and came across some stumps of a felled clump of bamboos,
at irhich his dogs barked half the day, he cut it with his parang and found a mau and woman named
ITotop and Motong who were the ancestors of the Serambos. This latter story may mean that the
Serambos were at some period crossed with another people.
The tradition of the Peninjauhs is .that the Selacco and Lara Dj-aks though migrating also from
Sikong, now speak a different dialect and are distinct from our Dyaks, though the Krokong3 told mc
the former tribe was once settled at Gunong Kapoh near Bedi, the Lundu tribe is an off-shoot of the
Peninjauh and left them when they were settled at Dindin on the Si Moba.
"With reference to the other chief who took a following from Sikong, the Peninjauhs say that one
half the Singhi, Gumbang and Tringus tribes are descended from Trau, the remainder of these tribes
being derired from other sources. Serambo and Sauh are also from Stamod. The Singhi Dyaks
were not in the country when the Peninjauhs arrived, they came up. the Sarawak river and ascended
to Singhi by the Tingga, Pinang, Si Lalang and Musi streams.
The Singhi Dyaks bear out the story of the Peninjauhs, they say they came originally from Sikong,
and moved thence to Tabiah, Gumbang, and then on to Sign, they then descended the Sarawak river
and were settled in the neighbourhood of Kuap, thence after passing Finding they ascended the western
branch to Sungie Tingga which issues from the left bank, about 2 hours pull from Kuching, and thence
on to Sungie Pinang, and so to their present site.
I was not so successful in acquiring information in this tribe as I should have wished, the Orang
Kaya's house was full to the extreme, and the eternal peal of gongs with which he favored me added to
the' heat and the noise of the assembled people was not condusive to making notes, and it was not till
late in the night and most of the Dyaks had dispersed that I found an opportunity of chatting with mj
friend.
One Dadu was the first Orang Kaya at Singhi. He was descended from Buta who lived at Sikong
whose son Sign lived at Tabiah. 1st Dadu was the son of Sign and moved the tribe to Rabak, Sign.
Ac. as above. 2nd Jari succeeded Dadu, and then came 3rd Sign, 4th Sadang, 5th Muk-Kawang, 6th,
Muk-Kitang, 7th Muk-Kijok, 8th Muk-Kadu, 9th Si-Pagow, lOtk Muk-Kangung, 11th Muk-Kodi, 12th
Pa Remban, 13th Pa Rium who I suppose is the same as Bibit, the name being changed to that of some
favorite child with the prefix of Pa, as is a common custom with the Land Dyaks. 14th Si Kodat, 15th
Biant and then the present Orang Kaya.
The Singhis say that Buta's first child was one Bandi who married a Malay from whence spring
the Sarawak Malays, they add that when the tribe came to their present quarters the Peninjauhs were
already settled at Si Mobah.
24
CHAPTER III.
The village
and Dyaks of Grogo.The great Sauh tribe of Dyaks.The village of Tambawaufr
Beratak.Dress of the Serambo, Singhi and Sauh Dyaks.Dress of the women of the Dyak tribes of
Serambo, Singhi and Sauh.The Suba village and tribe of Dyaks.Bedi.The Pra.snn village and
Kr.okong tribe of Dyaks. Gunoug Kapoh and its caves.Return to Bedi.Sambas Dyaks.Price of
Sarawak gold.Return to Prasun village.The village and Dyaks of Jagui.The village and Dyaks
of Anp.
All hour's poliug and v>'c entered the Si I.alang stream which falls into tlie Sarawak
river from the westward. It being a lovelj' night with a brilliant raoon,
U^e
^'''\g ^^
my crew sang and shouted to such an extent, that we failed to observe
^
the mouth of the Suba stream a little distance up which is situated the
landing place of the Cxrogo village. Having rectified our error we entered the Suba, and ifc
was 8 p. m. before we dre^y up our boat alongside the sloping bank on the summit of
which stands the village. Our journey had been slow and laborious as both the Si Lalang-
.and Suba streams -were dry and full of ol)Struction6.
Grogo village is built close to the Suba on the right bank ascending, and no sooner
-was my advent communicated to the Orang Kaya, then he pressed me to take up my
quarters in his house, but I preferred my boat as the ni^ht was fine aud cool to the heat
and noise of a Dyak liouse. Tlie next morning (29th July) I was early astir, and enjoyed
a delightful bath in the Suba streani ; above the landing place is a shady pool with a gra-
velly bottom the very spot for a- .swim.
The Grogo Dyaks are an off-shoot of the great Sauh tribe which was formerly settled
at Beratak, on a spur of Gunong Undang, incorrectly called Sauh, which,
^^trib^of D^ak^
^^^^ * *^ westward of the present village. In 184 the S:iuh tribe
n e ya s.
^^^ attacked by a, bala. or war-party of Undup and Balow Dyaks under
Seriff Jappar, who landed on the Lundu side, aud although sickness was rife in the village
.and it was under pamali, the Sauhs repulsed their adversaries with so much success that
150 of the attacking party were left dead on the field, the Sauhs saying that their own loss
amounted to only two heads. The Sauhs followed up the pursuit of the enemy with the
Seatest
vigour, and the retreating foe had to effect their escape through a plain of high
laug grass, M'hich from a long continued drought was very dry. Here the Sauhs sur-
rounded the bala, fired the grass, and those who were not burnt to death had to face the
infuriated Dyaks, who slaughtered without mercy. Seriff Jappar escaped with difl&culty,
leaving his arms behind him, together with a valuable war head-dress covered with Arab
charms. This trophy was lost to the tribe in the succeeding attack on this village by Sea
Dyaks.
'J'he Sauhs were greatlj' elated at their victory, and well they might be, for such a suc-
cess had never before been gained by land Dyaka over their formidable foes. At this
time Makaka was Orang Kaya of Wauh, and troubled iif his heart at what had occurred, he
resigned the chieftainship, and retired to Serambo where he died. He was succeeded by
Kadup and Nyiamang, and it was durini; the rule of these chiefs that Seriffs Mahaiar and
Sahib collected a powerful bala of tjaliarrau fSea) Dyaks to avenge the defeat of the last
expedition.
These Sakarran Dyaks whose chiefs were Gasing, Bulan, Jiang and Retap ascended
the Lundu river, till they reached a branch called the Kyan, continuing their course up
this tributary S&^r as the Si Bobut stream, they abandoned their boats, and having collected
their forces walked to Tungoie Kyan, and thence to Butan a valley near the foot of Gu-
nong Undang. Here they ascended the Undang to its summit, and dividing the bala into
25
three parties they fell on the village (which was situated about half way down tlie inountain>
rom above, carried it by storm and put the inhabitants to the sword. The poor Sauh Dyaks
were completely unprepared for this attack, very many of the fighting men under Nyia-
mang were on the war-path in the direction of Sambas engaged with the Si Noyung Dyaks.
Orang Kaya Kadup was in charge of the village with barely 100 men, half of whom were-
absent at tlie farms or ladangs. The forts or stockades protected by lelahs and guns with
which the Sauhs had surrounded the village, were easily taken, for there were not enough
Dyaks to man them. The Sauhs were cut off in detail and slaughtered almost to a man,.
in fact the tribe was completely "smashed up", while 200 or 300 women and children
were carried into captivity, from which they were only released through the mediation and
intervention of Sir James Brooke.
Those of the Sauh tribe who escaped the sword of their enemies sought fresh settle-
ments, their village was a blackened mass of cha rred and smouldering ruins, the fruit-
trees had been destroyed, and the country ravaged. Thus it came about that the great
Sauh tribe became scattered over the face of the country, and is now found under the
-distinct and separate Dyak names of Grogo, Suba, Krokong, Jagui and Aup. All these
settlements spring from the once flourishing and prosperous tribe of Sauh, which had its
location at Beratak on Gunong TJndang. When the Grogo portion of the tribe left Bera-
tak, they shifted their quarters to Raat, a huge rock some 500 feet high, on a shoulder of
which about 100 feet up they erected their village, and when this was burnt down acci-
dentally some eight years ago, they moved to their present site which is about a mile or
so from Eaat.
Having inspected the village which I found in pretty much the same condition as-
Singhi, I suggested to the Orang Kaya the necessity of re-building it, but the force of my
remarks seemed to create little effect. The head-house here with 9. heads is clean but aU
around is filth and refuse.
Grogo is under Orang Kaya Jennis the successor of Steer Eajah Niamok who figures
go frequently in Keppel's and Mundy's Journals. Niamok was on one occasion removed
from the Orang Kayaship of the tribe by Sir James Brooke, but was re-instated in 1865,
he died 4 years ago.
In 1873 Grogo paid revenue on 82 families which at $3 per family will give $246,
The birds nests appertaining to the Sauh tribe are divided between the Grogo, Suba
and Krokong Dyaks in the following proportions. Grogo enjoys the produce of the caves
for 2 years, then Suba, and then Krokong each for 1 year, the revenue to be paid to Govern-
ment being 7,000 nests per annum. Jagui is also interested, but the village being far dis-
tant from the caves, these Dyaks decline to work them. This year the caves go to Kro-
kong.
A small vein of- very superior antimony ore "was found near Grogo, but was soon
exhausted when worked by the Borneo Company.
At
^
past 8 a. m. I started for Tambawang Beratak, as the late site of the Sauh
settlement is now called. The Dyaks apply the word tambaiwang to the
Th TillagB rf Tam-
former site of a village or house, or to the site of a former dwelling-
wang '**
place of a tribe. The word itself is however Malay, but has been adopted
ty the Dyaks. Except one or two employes of the Borneo Company who were prospect-
ing the country for antimony ore, no European has visited this spot, which is occupied by
ft few families who have returned to what "was once the scene of the prosperity of their
people.
Leaving Kaat on our left we soon opened a view ofthe Undang mountain, and a cou-
ple of hours' shiirp walking brought us to the village of Tambawang which is on a spur of
ihe mountain, and the ascent to which necessitates a steepish bit of climbing.
The road
26
however from Gropfo was good, being over the flat with a great many bataugs laid on the
ground, with occasionally a wet paddy-field or two to get across as beat we might.
I found the villaoe a wretched, dirty, tumble down place, poverty stricken in the
extreme. The
population may be reckoned at 30 doors having no Orang Kaya, but under
the jurisdiction
of two Tuas Pa Surit and Pa Baga
;
Beratak Tambawang pays revenue
under Grogo.
In 1873 Beratak Tambawang paid revenue on 33' fanailies which at $3
... |99.
'J'he Dyaks tell me that at the time of the destruction of the village the population
was estimated at 380 lawacgs paying tax, and about 23 untaxed, but this I consider below
a proper estimate. There was nothing to note in the village, the head-house was small
with three skulls said to be those of a Chinese and two Saribas Dyaks ; before the
village was destroyed it boasted four panggaa. Beratak Tambawang is well situated, and
is surrounded by some fine old fruit trees, but, the people are poor and sickly while many
are suffering from skin diseases. I left the village a little after noon, and the heat on my
return journey to Grogo was intense.
The Grogo Dyaks like all the Sauh tribe burn their dead, there is one sexton and
another at Beratak Tambawang, Suba the neighbouring village is without one, and borrows
from Grogo when there is necessity.
These Dyaks tell me that the Peninjauh story is true as^regards the descent of the
kSauhs. It will be remembered in the account given of the Serambo Dyaks, that Rupak
had a step-son named Bunga, the child by a first husband of a widow whom he had mar-
ried. Bunga's son was Putan, who, moved to Sungie Pinang, his son was Karud, and
Karud's son Makurung moved his portion ofthe tribe to Beratak, hence the Sauh tribe The
Grogos bear out this, and say that when they left Dinding they went to Sungie Pinang,
thence to Rata Manas, thence to Guuong Kingi, and then settled at Beratak. ^Yhen they
came to Beratak they found the Gumbang and Tringus Dyaks already on their respective
moimtains.
The Orang Kaya seemed anxious to collect the Grogos and Subas and return to Bera-
tak, as he says many of the people are short of land. It appears to me however that the
Orang Kaya himself is the chief mover in this matter, in which he is aided and abetted
by some of the Grogo people. This tribe of Dyaks have suffered from no sickness this year,
but the paddy crops have been bad. There are two Chinese settled in GrogoAssam
and Annianother Assa has left.
_ , ,
g
I may here take the opportunity of describing the dress of the Dyaks
bo Sinchi & Sauh ^^'"^^'^J'
visited, and my description will include the whole of the :;auh
Dyaks.
trile as well as tl ose of Serambo and Singhi.
The men generally wear a dark blue or black head-cloth, and sometimes also a cloth
of Malay pattern, a neck-lace of two or three strings of beads the only colours used being
red, white, black and yellow. On great occasions brass wire rings are worn halfway up
the arm to the elbow, and above this armlets of the rotan ijuk which are replaced by
silver armlets among the upper classes when in full dress. Round the waist is worn a
cloth called the
'
chawat ' by the Malays, and the
'
taup ' by the Land Dyaks, this is a long
cloth twisted round the waist the ends being allowed to hang down down before and be-
hind. The chawat or taup is generally of black or dark blue cloth, and sometimes of
scarlet colour, but, in jungle wear and among the poorer Dyaks, this is often changed for
the inside of the bark of the tree which produces the bread-fruit. Low calls it the Artocar-
pus (see
"
Sarawak and its Productions" Page 240.) Among the D^'aks this tree is known
as the Bayu, among the Malays the Temarang.
While speaking of the 'chawat' or 'taup
'
I cannot help calling attention to the very
close similarity which exists between this waist-cloth, and that shown on some of the fi-
gures on the old Hindu remains in Java. The accompanying sketches will explain what
is meant. No. 1 is the ordinary
'
chwat ' or
'
taup ' of the Sarawak Land Dyak, ^o. 2 is a
27
copy of a figure on
the ruias at Suku
near Sura-Kerta ia
Java and is taken
from Raffles'a His-
tory of Java. A
Kling merchant of
Sarawak assures me
that in Madras
there are three
tribes of natives of
the cooly class who
still adopt this arti-
cle of dress. They
are settled in the
Madras Presidency,
one tribe is called
the Verdahs in the
jungles of the Neil-
gherry mountains.
The other two tribes
"Wottens and Kora-
vins , inhabit the
plains in the Ma-
nargoil district in
the im media te
neighbourhood o f
Madras. I must
now continue my
description of the
Dyak dress. n
the right aide the
Land Dyak s u
8-
pends a small bas-
ket, often very
prettily plaited, to
which is attached a
knife in a bamboo
sheath, the latter
sometimes tasteful-
ly carved and co-
lored. The basket,
knife and fittings
are called the tun-
kin, the basket itself
is the tambuk and
holds the siri leaf
and is made to con-
tain two round little
cases for lima and
tobacco called de-
kan, and a piece of
ihe
inuer bark of
the bayu tree, while
the knife in its
eheath hanging on
the outside of the
tunkin is callod the
^.^ix
"^
sinda. A sword or
parang is worn on
the left side, the one
in general use is
that called buco by
the Dyaks and tun-
duk by the Malays,
another parang used
ia the bye of the
Dyaks and kam-
ping of the Malays.
Ear-rings consist-
ing of a single ring
of broad ftattened
wire or else pieces of
thin round bamboo
^
of an inch in dia-
meter, and some
two inches long,
ornamented with
the black thread-
like bauds of the
lemmun creeper are
worn tlu'ougli the
lobes of the ear. A
jacket of some
coarse clotli often of
Sea Dyak manufac-
ti're completes the
costume, which may
in fact apply to all
the Laud Dyak
tribes visited by me,
though I may add
that on festive occar
sions, the head-men
sometimes wear a
necklet or bobut of
wire, on which are
strung opaque
beads of a- dark
green and blue co-
lour, with which are
mixed kejaug, deer
and bear's teeth.
The armlets or nan-
nu are made ofbrass
wire and rottan
twisted tog ether
and very neat they
are. Ear-rings, shi-
bu are worn of wire
twisted round in a
coil and hanging
from the ear by a
single bend of the
. same.
28
The vromen of the above mentioned tribes wear a necklace of two or more strings
round the neck, red, yellow and black
coloured beads being used. On
Dress of the
festive occasions this becomes a heavy mass of bead-work a^ it is worn in
Dyak^tribea of
J^^t^J colls. Round the arms, between the shoulders and elbow, armlets are
Sauh, Singhi and
worn made of the red wondof the heart ofthe tapang tree which becomes
Serambo. hard on exposure to the atmosphere. Brass rings cover the lower portion
of the arm from the wrist to the elbow, but never above it. The dress is
a sarong or waiat-cloth
called the jammu made of coarse cloth generally of Sea Dyak
manufacture, and brass rings are worn on the legs below the knees. Eound the waist
hanging loose over the loins partially covering the jammu, are coils of split rotan fastened
together by small brass rings
;
these coils of rotan are called rambi, (uberi by the Sennak
Dyaks) and are made of the rotan padina stained black, which colour, is the only one in use
amongst these tribes. Bauds of small fine brass chains some three indhes in breadth
(sabit) are worn round the loins mixed with the rambi, and at feitsts silver coins are worn
on the edge of the jammu, and as a kind of belt round the loins. I must not forget to
mention that the jammu is fastened round the waist by a string of rotan, or twisted length*
of the ijuk fibre from the No palm or other substance. This string is worn loosely next to
the skin, round the waist, the jammu is drawn round to the hip and then folded back
across the body, the string is then pulled over it and this keeps the cloth in its proper
place and position round the waist.
The women of the above tribes and no others wear the Seladan. This is made of
split pieces of bamboo, placed one inch apart from one another, nine or ten inches long, dyed
black, flattened and pared thin to fit the body, which it covers from the waist to half over
or under the breasts. When fitted to the body, brass wire passing across its breadth keeps
it in its proper form and position, and is also ornamental. The Seladan is worn by girls
&t an early age, and as it is too small to be -taken off constructed as it is on the body, it
has to be destroyed when a larger one is required by the women.
In concluding my account of the Grogo Dyaks I must add that they are good boat-
builders. When on my way to Tambawaiig Beratuk I came across a Dyak jalur which a
Grogo Dyak had built of kapila wood or voiiii as these people call it; this boat was
6^
fathoms long and worth some $8.

At about 10 a. m. the next morning I was on my way to Suba. This village of the
The Suba village Sauh tribe is very prettily situated commanding views of Bau, Serambo
And tribe of Dyak
and Raat. I had first to pole my boat down the Suba stream, when, I
landed and some 20 minutes walking brought me to the collection of houses which make
up the village.
Suba is not a large village, it was taxed for revenue in 1873 at 30 lawangs which.
"at
$3
$ 90
This was paid in cash. To the above revenue must be add 7,000 bird's
nests Avhich weighed 120 catties and sold for $360
$
450
There is no Orang Kaya here, the village is under a Tua one Pa Jahap or Nuudun.
I did not meet this man who was absent on his farm, and I only rested for n short.time
in the head- house in which were two skulls said to have been taken from the Sarebas
Dyaks on the Pamutus exuedition.
The houses were clean and I noticed one in particular of eleven doors which must
have been over 130 feet in length, all under one roof. It struck me that the Dyaks here
were in a better condition than at Grogo and Siiijihi, owing perhaps to their consuming
more fish as the settlement is in close proximity to the Sarawak river.
At about 1 p. m. I turned my steps towards Bau, having first wished farewell to the
Orang Kaya of Grogo who had accompanied me so far on my wa)'. This Orany Kaya
mi^ht well be called
"
Old Tom
"
for no Dyak has so persistently bothered me for Sjjirits
I. e. gill as this man has. He is a sulky, obstinate, reticent old man even imbibing
his fttvorite beverage seldom made him loquacious.
Half an hours walking throutjh newly felled jungle cleared for paddy planting
brought me to a bamboo hanging-bridge over the Sarawak river. This bridge constructed,
29
of jungle wood and bamboo waa 138 feet in- length and most skilfully put together. A.
short distance from this was pangkalan Bau where I found my boat awaitini; my arrival.
The Serambo, Peuinjanh, Bombok, Singhi, Grogo and Suba Dyaks plant no vegeta-
bles or only La the smallest quantities. The Singhi and Serambo Dyaks have a small
number of sa^jo trees, but, not enough for their own wants, though some of the land ia
the neighbourhood of the former village is admirably suited for growing this palm.
On the 3 1st July at 9 a. m
,
I left Bau and at a little past 10 o'clock reached La-
bang Angin having poled my boat against a pretty strong current The cave at Lubaiig.
Angin (The wind-hole) has been so fully described by Low and others that I pass it by
without comment, suffice it to say that I thoroughly explored the cave, and found it bore-
out all that had been written about it.
I reached Bedi about noon, and as it was too late to proceed to Jagui which village
-g^
,. was to have been my next halting-place I resolved to remain here for
the rest of the day. The Borneo Company formerly worked antimony
ore here to a great extent, but, the mines have been long abandoned, lately they have
resumed operations though on a small scale, and there is only a Chinese mandore with
few of his countrymen and a few Sambas Dyaks in possession of the works.
The next morning at 8 a. m., I poled up the Sarawak river to the mouth of Sungei
Si Tuppong, which stream entering the main river from the westward is about an hour's-
boating from Bedi, and on its left bank is the landing place of the Jagui tribe of Dyaks-
"We had however scarcely entered the stream, when our further progress was rendered
impossible by an immense tree which had fallen, and entirely blocked it up from bank to
bank. Being without any means of cutting our way through this obstruction I resolved
to return, continue my course up the Sarawak river to Prasun the head-quarters
of the Krokong tribe of Dyaks, and thence despatch messengers to Jagui to remove
the fallen tree. Two hours of difficult and fatiguing poling caused by the dryness
of the river, and the obstacles in the shape of trunks of trees and gravelly beds, and we-
reached the landing-place of the Prasun village, and a few minutes walk brought me to
The Prasun vil-
t^ie village itself which I found cleaner than when I last visited it four
lago andBIrokong- years ago, when sickness (cholera) was prevalent. I rested in the pangga
tribe of Dyaka.
a small, but, clean building, havinaf 6 heads suspended in it. The
present village is situated at the foot of a mountain of the same name. The original
settlement was at Krokong (now called Tambawansr JKrokong) whence the Dyaks who
are a branch of the Sauh tribe derive their name. The Krokong Dyaks are under Orang
Kaya Si Gin, the former Orang Kaya Numbing is still alive, but, very old and infirm and
takes little interest in the affairs of the tribe.
The Krokong tribe paid revenue in 1873 on 31 families or lawangs which
at $3
$33
There has been no sickness to speak of lately in the tribe, and though the place is ia
a filthy mess, it has greatly improved since my last visit. I ascended the mountain (Pra-
sun) at the back of which some 7 or 8 miles distant is Tegora where the Borneo Company
are working cinnabar. As usual I spent the greater part of the night talking to the head-;-
men. The Orang Kaya seemed satisfied with the paddy crop which though not abundant
had been up to the average ; the tribe would this year work the Sauh caves for bird's
nests.
These Dyaks told me such queer stories regarding the caves in Gunong Kapoh
near Bedi where they find their nests, that I determined to visit them on my way down
river.
In one cave it was said was an immense cat which protected some jars of fabulous
age and value. Then again there were numbers of stone statues, one in particular was
said to be sitting cross-legged playing on the gendang, all these sights, and many more
I was assured I would see if I visited the caves, and with these assertions were blended
numerous
legends and stories too wild and lengthy to be entered in this narrative.
On
the following morning I left Prasun to descend the Sarawak river to again
attempt
the ascent of the Si Tupponsr, visiting the caves of Gunong Kapoh on my way;
Dyaks
had been sent to Jagui from Prasun to order the removal of the obstruction in tha
Si Tuppong
stream, so I hoped to reach the Jagui village before night. My departure
iirom Prasun was delayed by heavy rain till 10 a. m. when I found myself at the pangka-
30
Ian, and descending the Sarawak river soon brought up my boat under the immense blook
of lime-stone known a3 Gunong Kapoh. On landing
I found no trace of a path, and the
Gunonc Kapoh
-^.V^^s who accompanied me cleared a track through the jungie follow-
and its caves. ^"K
^ 'i"C of land-marks known onl}' to themselves. In many places the
ground was wet and swampy and the underwood dense, but, by placing
batangs over the former, and hacking down the latter with parangs, we at length after an
hour's hard work reached the foot of the mountain. Gunong Kapoh well repays a visit, it
towers
over-head in perpendicular faces for hundreds and hundreds of feet, it is in fact a
stupendous block of lime-stone covered with trees, and to its summit full of caves, in which
re found the valuable edible bird's nests. Many of the caves are on the level, and are
heltered by over-hanging shelves of lime-stone jutting out from the foot of the mountain
Under these shelves are flats with room for hundreds of people to congrei,'ate, and which
run back into caves extending deep into the bowels of the mountain, the nightly resort
of numbers of deer us their tracks can testify for they are found over the whole place. I
entered one of these caves, I believe the one said to be haunted by the ghostly cat, and
by the aid of a lantern, torches, and candles penetrated some distance into the mountain,
but, found it simply a cave such as abounds in all the lime-stone cliffs. The stone
statues proved of course a myth, the origin of the story lying in the fantastic forms
which the lime-stone assumes.
After leaving the caves and tramping again through jungle and swamp, we continued
our descent of the Sarawak river, and again pushed our way up the Si Tuppong only to
find it still obstructed by the fallen timber. I had therefore no alternative but to return
Eetum to Bed'
*
Bedi, whence I resolved to proceed again to Prasmi on the following
day, and thence walk overland to the Jagui village. I spent the remain-
der of the daj' in inspecting the ore workinns. The Borneo Company have constructed a
tramway hei-e which extends to the eastward for a distance of 2 miles, and which connects
an extensive working called the East mine with the river ; the Company had also woi-ks on
the other side of the river at Si Buan to which they gave the name of the West mine. In
the course of my walk I came upon a small settlement of Sambas Dyaks employed by the
fiamb a D k
Borneo Company in exploring for antimony, I was surprised to see the
small temporary huts of these Dyaks surrounded with patches of gar-
dens, affording a most agreable contrast to the habitations of the Sarawak Land Dyaks.
In these gardens were planted such vegetables as the Dynks delight in, and the ground
was well tilled and flourishing. These Sambas Dyaks though of Land Dyak stock have,
mixed much with the Chinese, ado-pt a sort of Chinese dress, and mnny speak the
Chinese language. They are active and industrious, and though much addicted to
gambling are quiet and peaceful, in their habits, giving the Government little or no
trouble. A considerable number of ihese Dyaks are employed by the Borneo Company
in their mining operations, and are highly spoken of by all the Company's managers.
I shall further on druw a comparison between the Sarawak and Sambas Laud Dyaks
which will certainly not be to the advantage of the former. The Sambas Dyaks whom
I had now met told me they were from Lumar, the Dyaks who sought work in the
Sarawak territory were principally from the Lumar, Pelayu, Kara, Lumut, Sibahu,
Teria, Pint, Suntalak, Banyuki, Bukit, Si Tango, Sapa, Maribas, Sumpata, and Sunok
districts. They were visited they said once or twice perhaps in five years by a. Dutch
official, and if they had any cases to bring before the notice of Government, they had
to appear before the Controlleur or Maeristnite at Lara.
These Lumar Dyaks informed me that the asil or tax paid by them to the Govern-
ment was 66 gantangH of paddy per annum, which at 8 gantangs per passu would equal
6^
Sambas passua. But 1 Sambas passu equals 2^
Sarawak passus, which will give
20^
Sarawak passus of paddy as the equal of
8^
Sambas paasus which at even the low price
of 20 cents per passu for the paddy is not No. 1 $4.12
While the Sarawak Dyaks pay 3 paasus of rice or 6 paasus of the best
paddy, which at 50 cents would be the equivalent of the annual tax,
via. $3. In addition to the above the Dutch Dyaks pay 1 rupee or 36
cents of a dollar per curtain per annum to the pembakal .. 0.36
Carried forward $4.48
31
Brought forward
$
4.48
and again 1 auku or 18 coats of a dollar per annum to the pembakal for
the ball 0.18
and on cutting their paddy (bunga taun) another 18 cents of a dollar per
curtain per annum to the pembakal
0.18
and once more in the year they pay 2 sukus or 36 cents of a dollar as a
marriage portion fund (wong kawin) for the daughters of the Sultan
whether they marry in the year or not
0.36
In all annually
|
5.20
The l)utch Dyaka have also to make roads and keep them in repair, without payment
feeding themselves when so employed, and they have also to keep the ball or buildings
of the Malays in repair, and have also to give fowls and rice when visited by Government
officials, headmen, &c. but, this latter, they added, was but the usual Dyak adat or
custom. The language of these Dyaks is very similar to that of the Sarawak Land
Dyaks, such words as I compared being identical.
The Chinese headman in charge of the Borneo Company's works in this district had
been many years in Upper Sarawak, and I elicited from him the fol-
eold
lowing prices of thedifierent kinds of Sarawak gold as found in the gold
districts of Sarawak Territory
:
Bau
$
28 per bunkal.
Gunong Angus near Jambusan ... $ 30 to
$
32
Gunong Kiladi between Paku and Busu $30 to

3'2

Baku ...
$28 to

29
Gumbang

28
SJgow ... 28
Serin ...

28
Marup ... $30 to,, 32
On th morning of the 3rd August I despatched ray crew to the mouth of the Si Tup-
pong stream who returned, and reported the fallen tree still in its former position, I
therefore started to return to Prasun leaving my boat to proceed to the Krokong pangka-.
Ian with my stores and kit.
Accompanied by ray Malay Abang I followed the abandoned tramway till it ended
bruptly at an old ore pit. Here we struck the jungle and after about an hour'a ^valk over
a fair Dyak path found ourselves once more at the village of Prasun.
r^*e
Prasun
yj^y arrival here was perfectly unexpected, the Orang Kaya was not to
be found, and I had to sit patiently for some two hours without fire or
water, finding it even difficult to procure cocoa-nuta as the village being new the trees
were young. Without the Orang Kaya nothing can be done in a Dyak village, and I
oontemplated my position with dismay, for without
- the chiefs assistance I had every
prospect of spending the night in darkness without food, fire, or water, everything I had
Deing in the boat, to add to my troubles heavy rain had set in making it impossible
for either the Abang or myself to move in the wet and dark. It is no easy matter to
move about at any time in a Dyak village, where the paths are but batangs and where
filth, offal and dirt surround you on every side, in the dark it was simply out of the
question. At 7 p; if. the Orang Kaya arrived having been called from his farm, and
notwithstanding the inclemency of the weather a party of Dyaks was organized who
proceeded to the pangkalan with torches, and soon returned with kit and stores giving me
eyentually the pleasure of dining at the fashionably late hour of 10 p. m.
The Orang Kaya tried to persuade me not to proceed to Sikong, assuring me that
some of his people were threatened there with the loss of their heads when in that country
seeking [for guttah. This I afterwards found to be untrue, the fact is the Singhi, the
Grogo and Krokong Dyaks have all in former times tukca Sikong heads, and this is not
forgotten; it would certainly be unsafe for any individuals of the three above-named tribes
to enter the Sikoag country.
I started next morning for Jagui, passing through the village I found it more
32
poverty-smitten than I first imagined. Many of the Dyaks suffer greatly from korap, and
eeem a weedy, sickly people, though from the clean, well-built appearanca of some indivi-
duals, it can perhaps be seen what might be made of the Land Dyaks if a better system
of agriculture were introduced, and they were better fed and housed.
Half an hour's walk from the village brought me to the Krokong landing-place on a
stream called, I believe, the Beniouwan; crossing this we entered almost immediately and
waded waist deep across the Sarawak river. Here I found my boat, but, I left it with
instructions to await my return at this point. Half an hour's steady walking rendered
fatiguing by the, slipper}' and muddy condition of the path, brought us to a clearing in
the jungle, with a fine plantation of old fruit trees. This was the site of the old village
of Krokong now abandoned for Prasun. The Krokong tribe of Dyaks had formerly two
settlements, one at Krokong and another at Prasun, which latter is situated at the foot of
the mountain of the same name, near the right bank of the Krokong or Beniouwan stream
a tributary of the Sarawak river, and running parallel with it. The two settlements are
now united ac Prasun the occupation of which promises to be permanent.
Two hours of hard work in the way of climbing, walking, falling and wading, and
we emerged on the Sungei Si Tuppong into which we were glad to plunge after the
fatigue of our march. I can only describe tho road from the Sarawak river to pangkalan
Jagui where y\e now were, as a simple jungle track carried up hill and down hill, across
streams, and along the face of hills in any manner that seemed to strike the fancy of the
Dyaks. The path had been long abandoned, and there was an utter absence of scenery,
nothing but jungle, before, behind and on either hand, nothing but jungle.
At this spot which is the landing-place of the Jagui Dyaks, Goverumant has sta-
tioned a native revenue collector or pembakal who is in charge of the whole of the Dyaks
of the westeru branch of the Sarawak river from Serambo to Tringus. This man whose
name is Saril lives in a miserable little hut on the bank of tne stream, so dirty that I
declined to enter it, preferring to rest in a Dyak "lanco" or temporary erection during the
period of my halt here.
Continuing our journey from the landing-placewe pushed on for the Jagui village,
which is on the summit of a mountain of the same name, 1500 feet high. An hour and
a-halfs walking brought us to the foot of the hill, the path being over level ground, dry,
with numerous batangs to facilitate travelling. So many of these batangs were of bilian
wood that I could only infer that thia timber was plentiful throughout the district. "We
commenced the ascent of the Jagui mountain in a perfect torrent of rain. 'J'he climbing,
was of the steepest description, being simply a series of steps of pieces of wood placed
zig-zag along the sides of the hill like ladders, and occasionally perpendicularly. We
counted no less than 2476 of these steps, some of which were the roots of trees, and I may
describe my progress as an eternal ^'etting up stairs.
Half an hour's climbinu', and we passed tne ruins ofa tompok or hamlet called Rodan,
this is now abandoned, and the inhabitants have moved to the torapok at the summit of
the hill. A further climb brought us to tompok Temudak, and a^aiu
Tl^ Tillage and
climbing broui-ht us to tompok Attas and village of Jayui. There are
Ja^ui.
^^
^
two more tompoks Si Matang and Tambawan^i. The Orang Kaya
wished me to make his house my resting-place during the time of my
sojourn amongst the tribe, but, I preferred the freedom and space of the pangga to the
confinement, noise, and smell of a Dyak house. I made it a rule always to stay in the
head-house, and I was consequently free from the eternal jabber of the women, or the
squalling of the children and babies, besides having ample room to receive the natives
who always crowded to see me, and who soon filled an Orang Kaya's house till it was
impossible to move and often difficult to breath. The head-house at Jagui was new,
clean, and being spacious and lofty I was soon comfortably housed. There were 12 heads
in the building taken 1 fancy, in the Chinese insurrection; there is another pangga some-
where with 9 heads.
Jagui is another of the Sauh vUlages, and is the largest and wealthiest, paying revenu*
in 1873 on 107 families or lawangs which at
$
3 $321
Jagui has also a vested interest in the bird's nest caves of the Sauh tribe, of which
however it declines to avail itself as the caves are too far distant to be properly worked.
33
The tribe 13 under Orang Kaya Koti, who is the successor of Orang Kaya Kabing who
still lives, but ia old and shaky. These chiefs were glad to see a European in their village,
and explained why the fallen tree had not been removed in the Si Tuppong stream. The
fact is these Dyaks have no boats, and had to borrow one from the Malays, who would not
believe at first that there was a
"
tuan
"'
at Prasuu.
Orang Kaya Kabing told me I should have no trouble with the Sikongs who were
not half so bad as they were represented to be, he himself had been there three or four
times, and had always been well received. The Si Baddat and Sikong Dyaks had been at
war arising out of a Si Baddat going to Sikong and carrying otf a man's wife, and on her
restitution being demanded it was refused, whereupon Sikong took two heads from
Si Baddat who retaliated by taking one from Sikong, but, peace had now been patched
up between these tribes. It was while this fighting was going on that some Sarawak
Dyaks, (not Krokongs as told me at Prasun but Aups) were in the Si Baddat country
after giittah. The Sarawak Dyaks went to Sikong having been previously warned by
the Si Baddats not to return by the way they went, the Sikongs likewise cautioned them,
and they therefore returned by Tabiah. It was the people of the lower tompok of Si-
kong under Macomboy, who warned the Aup Dyaks, and told them that 30 Sikongs
were out after the Si Baddats under one Kira, as it was from his tompok that the
woman had been carried oflf. Kabing was most anxious to accompany me to Sikong,
saying he' would assist and protect me &c., having no wish however to bring this old
man into trouble should it occur, I was obliged to decline his offer.
The view from the summit of Jagui is very grand, there is nothing in the Sarawak
territory I have seen to equal it. The whole of Sarawak Proper lies spread as a map
at one's feet, and mountain after mountain can be clearly and distinctly traced with,
the naked eye into the far horizon. The whole sea coast is visible from the Sadong
river to Tanjong Datu; to the west is Lundu and the Sadong country; to the south
Seraung, Si Bnngo, Gumbang, Tringus, and in the far distance the mountains' in the
Dutch territory of Sangouw, while to the west are the mountains in the district between
the western and southern branches of the Sarawak river, and the distant mountains of
Sadong complete the picture and fill in the background of this panorama. To any
one wishing to learn what is really the extent of Sarawak Proper, the summit of Jagui
presents facilities of studying its limits and geography, such as could hardly be afforded
by the study of all the maps and books we possess. I can compare the view from
Jagui to no other in Upper Sarawak for extent and diversity of scenery, for not only
does it embrace the coast line and the Sarawak river which add the charm of water to the-
landscape, but the hills in the vicinity seem piled up and again scattered about in the
most erratic and irregular manner. In my opinion it is greatly superior to the view over
the Sadong country so glowingly described by Wallace in his Malay Archipelago Vol. I.
pages 112-13.
The Jagui farming lands border on the Dutch possessions in the Sambas territory,
Tebero and Selacco Dyaks farming in the immediate vicinity. Disputes occasionally arise
between the Sarawak and Sambas Dyaks regarding their respective boundaries, and the
right of farming land ; one dispute of this nature is now pending. The Government,
custom has been to define the boundaries by the water-shed, the Sambas Dyaks following
the flosv of water in their direction, our Dyaks that to this side. This appears at the first
glance a very simple and satisfactory arrangement, but, the dispute now pending betweea
the Jagui and Tebero Dyaks will require some fixed territorial limits before the question
can be considered as satisfactorily settled. The Tebero Dyaks or rather the Sultan of
Sambas whose subjects they are, claims revenue from the Jaguis on the ground that they
farm land on the Sambas side of the water- shed. This is not denied by the Jaguis, who
however stoutly maintain that the land in dispute has been in possession of their tribe
from time immemorial. The land, say they, is perhaps the best they have and is eagerly-
coveted by the Teberos, and it was very easy for JNIr. G

(the Government officer charged,

with the revenue survey at the time) to give away their laud without compensation and
without their consent, and this though they had never accepted the water-shed as the
boundary between the respective territories. The Jaguis complain that Government has
conlined them to the Sarawak side, while their land has been taken from them without
any equivalent, the Teberos being great gainers and they heavy losers, all and everything
34
teing to the advantage of the Dutch Dyaks, and they a,dd (which is probably untrue), tha^
most if not all tlie land on the Sarawak side worth anything has already been taken up bj
the Singhi and otlier tribes. The real point at issue appears to be that the Jagui Dyaks
do not wish to part with good land which they have farmed for generations, nor do they
see wliy they being subjects of the Rajah of Sarawak should pay revenue to the Sultan
of Sambas. On the other hand the Sultan claims what he considers but his lawful
revenue, given him through an arrangement made by the Sarawak Government itself.
Being pressed for time, I determined to leave Jayui the next da}-, but, the Orang
Kaya and bead men wished me to stay another night in the village or as they expressed
it demanded the custom
"
minta adat", so that I could not refuse, and they then promised
to give me a feast
"
makan sejuk dinpin." I spent the evening in the pangga talking with
the chiefs. They agree in all that the Peuinjauh Dyaks say as to the origin of the tribe.
One Aj-ang was the oiiginal settler nt Sikong, but, where he came from they cannot say.
Stamod was bis descendant and went first to Gumbang where he lived some years One
half of his followers went to Peniujauh and the other to Si Mobah, the Sauhs descend
from the Si Mobah branch. The Sentah, Sempi'o, Stang and Sign Dyaks came also from
Sikong with Stamod but separated at Gumbang. A portion of the Tringus tribe are
according to the Jaguis from Goun, the remainder also from Sikong.
The next morning I walked round the village with the Orang Kaya, the houses have
nearly all been lately re-built, and the village consequently presented a clean nnd fresh
Appearance. The Jaguis are well off in pigs and fowls, fruit-trees were abundant, and I
was informed that the rice crop had been fully up to the average. The water which sup-
plies the upper tompok is a great distancefrom the village,, the hill having to be descended
some 300 steps before the panchur is arrived at ; it necessitates a long descent and ascent
for the unfortunate Tvomen and girls, who, as in all Dyak villages are the carriers of wood
and water. The supply of water too at the panchur is not great and I fancy in dry
weather would soon run short. I felt for these unfortunate Dyak women and girls as
they toiled up the steep ascent from the panchur, groaning under the weight of the
lengths of bamboo filled with water which they were carrying to the village, and I was
not surprised to learn that the Dyak women are short-lived and the Jaguis particularly so.
Many of the women I am told run away, and seek husbands amongst the Malays, Chinese
and.Boyans in the neighbourhood. A case of the kind came under my notice while I was
at Jagui, one of the relations of the Orang Kaya had run off with a Boyan from Tegorn,
and though brought back had again eloped. The Jagui Dyaks burn their dead, and
have two peninus one at the head tompok and one at Simatang.
The Sauh village of Aup being in the neighbourhood of Jagui, I started this morn-
ing to visit it. The path a mere jungle trace had nothing novel about it, the same
dreary, monotonous journey through forest and jungle necessitating the ascending and
desceading the Luluk, Tutah, and Motan hills with part of Scalup. I estimate the dis-
tance at about two hour's walk from Jagui,
Aup is the last of the Sauh villages, and if 1 am not mistaken is situated on Gunong
The Aup village
Scalup.
It is' small, abominably dirty, and the houses are in a dilapi-
and tribe of Dy- dated, racketty
condition.
aks.
In 1873 Aup paid revenue on 3 lawangs which at
3
... $24-
The head house with o heads looked so insecure and uninviting that I refused to
enter it, and halted in the house of Orang Kaya Bicu who was from home as were
most of the inhabitants. Pigs and fowls were apparently scarce, and I had even difficulty
in procuring cocoa-nuts. I had hoped to find guides in this village to lead me to Gunong
Si Tulang where hones had been formerly found, hence the name, but, after passing'
Posin mountain, I gave up the attempt as it was late. I noticed that the ground had
been worked by Chinese for gold. I returned to Jagui by another track, and emerged
on our path of yesterday not fur from the pangkalan.
In the evening our party mustered at the Orang Kaya's house, where I found assem-
bled the whole of the head.-men, while the building itself was crammed with Dyaks.
After the head-men had as they call it "minta adat" from me which consisted in my
giving them a couple of bottles of gin and the like number of packets of Chinese tobacco,
and a dozen yards of white drill cloth, the feast commenced. After the gin had been
mixed with water it was poured into a basin, and with the tobacco which had been divided
35
into small portions passed round, beginning with the elders and ending with the hoys. A
fowl was then brought in and handed to the Orang Kaya, who waved it over and around
my head, while he made a short speech in which he wished the Rajah, the Datu, myself,
the Dyalts, the country, and in fact evei'y body connected with us, luck and prosperity.
After this three of the elders clothed in long white cabayas or robes commenced dancing,
a slow stalely almost comical measure, the arms extended, and the feet keeping time to
the slow strains of the music, the toes beinw turned inwards and outwards without
ceasing. A little arrack of the Nopnlm was then poured into a cup, and every one present
was touched with a drop or two of it. A small portion of boiled fowl was then givea
to every one, the object of all this being to bring luck on the recipients, as whoever
had been touched with the arrack or had partaken of the boiled fowl was supposed to be
secured from sickness. The Orang Kaya assured me that without the distribution of the
hoiled fowl, it would have been impossible for him to have allowed the gongs to be beaten,
even killing three pigs, he added, would not have sufficed without this rite. All this time
the gongs were beaten freely and furiously, the din was tremendous, and the heat stifling.
Boiled rice and something- which looked like stewed fish, but, emitted a powerful odour
were then produced, and the elders sat down to eat while I adjourned to the head-house. I
returned later in the evening only to find the dancing and gong beating continuing
furiously. The former was but an imitation of the Malay dance, and I was giad when I
retired towards the small hours to my mat in the pangga, feeling after what I had gone
through as if the top of my head was coming off. The place where I was seated had
been covered with fine mats, while the bamboo walls of the building were decorated with
cloths of different colours, amongst which I recognized some of the white cloth I had
given the Orang Kaya.
Early in the morning of the 6th August I went through the village with the Orang
Kayn, who, took me to the extreme point of the hill from whence there was a fine view of the
Brunai, Krah, and Si mountains. He explained to me the matter in dispute between the
Jaguis and Teberos, asking me to assist him in Sarawak in getting the land question set-
tled. We then went to his house where he produced a small basin of water in which we
washed our hands together, while he pronounced some sort of prayer or incantatiou which
-was afterwards explained to me to mean that he wished me good luck on my journey,,
while I on my part promised to re-visit his village when an opportunity offered. I was
much pleased with this man and his tribe who were hospitality itself. Some of the Dyaks
were physically fine fellows and many of them great dandies in dress.
I now turned my steps to the landing-place at Sungie Tuppong, and some two or
three hours poling with a Dyak crew down this stream to its junction with the Sarawak
river, and about as long an ascent of the main stream brought us to Pangkalan Kro-
kong where I had left my boat. Our journey had been greatly delayed by heavy
rain which drenched us to the skin, and also by the utter ignorance of the Jagui crew of
;
anything connected with boats or boating in any shape. These Dyal;3 live so far inland
j
that they have become veritable hill-men, differing in this respect from the Krokongs who
are fair boatmen. t
"VVe coutinued our course up the. Sarawak river, our progress slow from the shallow-
j
ness of the water which was clear as crystal. We passed Sungie Serikin and Lobok .
Pilin and shortly afterwards Rheum Panjang. On the right bank was formerly the old
Chinese road from Bau to Gumbang, and thence to Sambas
;
it was along this road that I
the misernble Celestials were followed by the Sarebas and Saknran Dyaks when they fled
the Sarawak territory after destroying the capital. We halted for the night a little
j
above Sungei Tuba.
36
CHAPTER IV.
The village and Dyaks of GumbangGumbang village and its dosfcr action by the Chiuese. insur-
gents in 1857Murung, the Orang Kaya of GumbangSiilinOrigin of the Gumbang Dyaks. The
village and Dyaks of TringusNames of the different parts of a Land Dyak houseDreps of the
women of the Dyak tribe of TringusOrigin of the Tringus DyaksMurder of Haji Nain in 1871 by
the Tringus DyaksSource of the Sarawak riverThe village of Tringus MatanCross the Sarawak
boundary into !Ned:-Iud: territorySource of the Sambas riverArrive at the Dyak village of Si
Baddat.
Ai daylight next morning we continued poliug our -way up the Sarawak river, but
from tlie shallowness of the water we found this hard work, we therefore halted for a short
time at Karaugan Kaladi. It was at this spot that the Chinese insurgents in 1857, when
flying before the Sakarrau and Sai-ebas Dyaks, were so fearfully cut up, and to this day
the Malay refuses to bring up his boat here for the night, fearing he says the ghosts which
:are reported to haunt the place. The slaughter of these unfortunate Chinese must have
been terrific, for the river at the, time was swollen by rain, and there being no bridge,
rotans were thrown across the stream and secureil to trees on both banks. Over this, men,
women and children swung, themselves as they best could, while Malays and Dyaks, hang-
ing on the rear, dashed in whenever they saw a chance, slaughtering all indiscriminately.
An hour's poliug, and we passed Sungei Pedowu on the left, and Sungei Kasong a little
further up on our right hand, and t^vo hours' poliug above this and we arrived at Paugka-
Ian Sibulu (bamboo) at the junction of two streams,the Sibulu which flows from the
northward, and the main streana of the Sarawak river which comes in from the westward
from Tringgus. Here the Gumbang Dyaks land, who call the place Pankalan Gumbang.
Through ignorance ray Malay guide now led me into a series of difficulties. Not
having visited Gumbang for many years, he was not aware that some Chinese had settled
n little further up the main stream) on the right hand, and that the Dyaks instead of
using the old landing-place had connected their village with the Pangkalau made by the
Chinese, abandoning the former road. These Chinese are contractors for the Borneo Co.
who have just commenced opening ground at Gading, a short distance inland from Sibula.
tGading is but an hour's walk from Tegora, where the Borneo Co. have a large establish-
ment, and the Dj^aks therefore in connecting their village with Sibulu virtually united it
with Gading and Tegora.
Landing at Pangkalau Gumbang, where I found two Chinese had erected huts, and
were cultivating gardens and trading with Dyaks, I commenced my march for Gumbang,
having first dismissed my boat and crew, as henceforward my journey was to be carried
out on foot. For an hour or two we were wandering over the iace of the country trying
to find Gumbang. The road was completely overgro-nn and we had the greatest difficulty
in keeping the trail, I cau call it nothing else. The batangs were rotten, and almost
-entirely lost in long, thick grass,the bridges over the streams were crossed in danger, few
being to be depended on. We had often to cross and re-cross the Sibulu stream by
descending and ascending the banks and wading through the water, as the bridges had
entirely disappeared. We now came to Gunong Api, on which hill the village is built,
and I was glad to see some gardens of sugar-cane, kiladi, krebang, Ac, while in the
flat country through which we had passed the Sago palm appeared pretty abundant,
and the whole hill seemed one vast ^rove of fruit-trees. Tired, dirty and hungry,
we at length reached the village, but, only to find it almost deserted, most of the
inhabitants, including the Orang Kaya, being absent ou their farming grounds. There
was literally txo one to send for my kit and stores, which had been left at a Chinaman's
37
liut at the Pangknliui,
for after despatcliiug" the stray men and boy.s who were iu the
village to seek the
Orang Kaya, Giiinbang remniued in possession of women only.
Our arrival being perfectly unexpected no one was to blame, and there was nothing
for it but to wait patiently "till the Orang Kaya returned, and collected sufficient Dyaks to-
act as porters for my luggag-e. This did not happen till dark, by which time rain had set
in in torrents, rendering it utterly impossible for people to move. There was tJierefore no
alternative but to wait till daylight, and get through the night as I best could without
food or drink. The Dj^aks did all they could to alleviate our coudition, which amounted
to little, and it was not pleasant to learn that had we proceeded to the new landiui; place,
and from thence ascended to Gnmbang, we should have e.tpcrienced no difficulty iu pro-
curing assistance, as the tribe were farming ground on that side of the mountain. After
swallowing some boiled rice and drinking freely of cocoanut water with a dash of the
"ciatur"' in it, I threw myself on my mat for my night's rest.
"
Qui dort dine," says the
Prench proverb, in my case it proved itself remarkably true, and thanks to being thoroughly
tired out, F slept so soundly that the sun was well up in the heavens before I awoke on the
following morning.
The Dyaks were late in returning with my kit, the excuse being the state of the road,,
in tlie meantime I had bathed and looked around me. The village of Gumbang is situa-
Tbe village ami
ted on the summit of Gunong Api, a hill about 1,000 feet high, and
Dyaks of 'Giuh- is erected on the frontier, part of it being in Sarawak, and part in
'^'^"S- Sambas tei-ritory. The flow of water is in both dirictions; the rivulets
rise in clefts of the mountain and run their respective courses between the houses iu
opposite streams. I can find no satisfactory explanation for the name Gunong Api.
The Dyaks say they call it thus, as their ancestors iu ages past were two Dyaks,.
male and female, the former Gusik, the latter Gurik by name ; moreover the man was
de.cended from, or had his origin in fire, "adapun yanjj laid itu asalnia deripada api."
The village of Gumbang has been rebuilt and moved three times. It was first burnt
down by the Chinese insm-gents and reconstructed by the Dyal<s. In 1858 Mr. G. vLsited
the village, and finding it built on' the Sambas side ordered all the houses to be removed
within Sarawak limits, fixing the boundary by the water-shed, as he did afterwards with
the Jagui Dyaks. This led to nearly the whole village moving, Mr. G. telling the Dyaks-
that those who remained on the old site "would have to pay revenue to Sarawak and
Sambas too. After some years it struck the Gumbangs that it was a pity to abandon the
old site, and they again removed their houses, but this step was followed by the Sultan of"
Sambas claiming revenue. Tiie question was then fully gone into by the Dutch and
Sarawak officiinls, when the tribe were allowed to retain their present 2^osition, but, I
cannot learn that any decision, was arrived at as to what was the proper boundary between^
the respective territories,
Gumbang paid revenue in 1873 on 6i3 families or lawangs, which at |3
$
189.
It paid also 300 bird's nests weighing 4.14 gfitties ... at $2.75 $
13.50'
/^
$202,50-
The tribe is under Orang Ka3;a Murung and a Pengara named Cinua, these head-
men do not appear the best of friends. Tiiere are two head-houses, but no skulls. The
Chinese insurgents in burning down the village, destroyed 200 of these curios, and the
tribe has never had a chance of forming a new colUction, Gumbang' is prettily situated^
but the hotises require repair, and the village might be cleaner. The people are inferior
to the Jaguis in inaterial prosperity, brass wire being abundant, but cloth scarce, nor do
these Dyaks come up to the Jaguis in physical appearance, still I cannot consider the Gum.-
bangs a poor tribe. The rice crop had been bad, and the Dyaks were already talking of
scarcity of grain. There is one peniuu to the tribe, who acts as sexton. The dress of the
Gumbang women and in fact of all the tribes I was now about to visit difl'ers considerably
from those already described. I .shall however defer my de.'^cription ot their personal attire
till I reach Tr^nggus, the women of which tribe will suffice, with occasional additions and
modifications^ for a- type as regards dress for the rest of the Land Dyak tribes.
38
Gumbang -was the village wliere the Chinese made their last stand in the iiisurrectiou
Gumbauc vil-
o^
^^57, after having been harassed night and day by Malays and Sea
lage and its de-
Dyaks the whole distance from Sarawak. Orang Kaya Murung had
struction by the ])layed a gi'eat part in all this, and I was very anxious to hear his account
Chinese insur-
of these events. The following is his story, the narration being marred
-gents m i8o7.
|jy j^jg bgig continually interrupted and contradicted by the Pengara,
and owing to the two quarrelling and arguing in a crowded head house, I may perhaps be
not so clear and succinct in my account as I ought.
When the Chinese had taken Sarawak they sent 50 men to Sibulu from Bau. They
- ordered the Orang Kaya to appear before them at Sibulu, where he found them surrounded
by armed men. He was examined as to the intentions of himself and his tribe, and solemnly
asked four times whether as the Chinese had now taken the capital and killed the Rajah
and Datu, he would elect to follow the Malays and white men, or the Chinese. Fearing
death he replied four times that he was glad the Rajah and Datu were dead, he being
heart and soul Chinese. On this he was well treated, and regaled with pork, fowls, and
arrack. The Chinese now erected a kind effort at Sibulu at a place called Maneng, but
no sooner did the Orang Kaya hear that the Chinese had been driven out of Sarawak,
than he laid sieye to the fort,.aud after three days carried it, killing 43 of its defenders,
seven ofwhom fell to his own hand, the rest escaping to Bau. After this the whole Chinese
population appeared flying for their lives. Their head men came to him and offered |100
for a passage over the hill through the village to Sidin on the Sambas side. He refused,
and threw a barricade across the road over Gunong Api, which he held against the Chinese
for_ more than an hour, his garrison being composed of Malays, and Gumbang, Serambo,
Trihgus, Sipanjang and Si Baddat Dyaks. Finding the little powder they possessed wet,
-and further resistance useless, the Dyaks abandoned the barricade and retired towards
the village, only to find that the Chinese had out flanked the barricade and set fire to the
Gumbang village. This flank movement had been carried out through the treachery of
the present Orang Kaya of Serambo, Pa Ahten, who assisted the insurg-enta by construct-
ing a sort of bamboo bridge over some huge boulders, and pointing out to theChinese this
way of escape. But for this assistance not a soul would have escaped, as the Sarawak
Malays and Sea Dyaks were pressing the insurgents hard in the rear. The younger
brother of the Orang Kaya of Sipanjang was with the Guiubaugs through the whole of
this affair, and jireatly distinguished himself. Pa Ahten. of Serambo was removed from
the Orang Kaya-ship of his tribe by Sir James Brooke and was not reinstated for many
years afterwards. Few of the Dyaks were killed, the women and children having all
been sent into the jungle.
By this time the Orang Kaya and Pengara had chosen to enter into a violent dis-
cussion, during which both became ,so excited and noisy that T was bound to interfere.
The ground of complaint ajipeared to emanate from the Orang Kaya, who loudly stated,
evidently meant to reach my ear, that his tribe paid him little or none of the respect and
deference due him as chief of the tribe, and that the ringleader was the Pengara. In
collecting the birds' nests, for instance, the first gathering went to the people, the second
to the Government, 200 nests of which were bis. perquisite, of these he had as yet only
received 100 nests. The Dyaks also, according to custom, were bound to work five days
for him in the year on his larm, this they refused to do, and led on by the Pengara they
-disobeyed his orders, and cared little tor him or his authority. The Pengara, in an excit-
ed but sarcastic tone of voice replied, that Alurung knew how to manage his people if
he liked, but that instead of looking after the tribe he preferred running about the coun-
try, and when the Dyaks wished to Avork for him he grew angry and abused them,
saying he could carry on his own farm without their help. Thitj statement the Orang
Kaya boisterously denied, and after mutually contradicting one aiaother at the top of their
voices, I sternly ordered them to desist, and as it was now late I sent them both off to
bed, where they retired peaceably enough and the next morning seemed as good friends as
ever. I am afraid Murung had imbibed a little too much arrack, he has acquired this
weakness from long association with Chinese and others, and it occasionally leads him
flstray.
39
Aa Murung accoinpauieil me to Sikong, and wan my companion over tiie greater
aiui-ung, the
portion of my journey, I shall liere take the opportunity of introducing
Orang Kaya of a short sketch of tliia Dyak chief. Murung has been 22 years chief of
Gumbang.
jjjg tribe. He is a short, lithe, active little fellow, and in his younger days
mu-thave been a dangerous enemy among his countrymen. He has associated a good deal
with the Chinese, and acquired a very tolerable command of the Kay dialect of their
language, in fact he speaks it so well that dressed as a Chinese he was able to accompany
a party of Celestials to the town of Sambaa. The Orang Kaya has been a great traveller,
there is hardly a Land Dyak tribe in the Sarawak, Sambas, or Sangouw territories that
he has not visited or is well acquainted with. He distinguished himself as already men-
tioned, in the Chinese insurrection, and in the former inter-tribal wars of his i*ace did good
service for his tribe, and personally added many interesting relics to the village collection
of smoked and dried skulls of enemies. Murung is a fussy, speculative, pushing kind of
man, not Avithout a good deal of cunning, and in many respects a thorough humbug. The
former qualities have led him to join in working a parrit for gold with some Kay Chinese, of
which fact he is never tired of bragging, the only ending of which can be in the transfer-
riuj; any dollars or profit that may be his due into the hands of the Chinese, who are sure
to swindle him. His cunning leads him to pretend to his countrymen that he can write
Chinese, and the way in which he practises on their credulity in this respect is often ludicrous
in the extreme. This Orang Kaya and his performances will be introduced from time to
time in the course of my narrative, suffice it to say that his besetting sin svaslove of drink.
Still, with the single exception of the night in his own village he never forgot himself,
and on this occasion I fancy he was noisy and boisterous, as he felt it imperative to show
oif his position before me to the assembled Dyaks. Murung never quarelled with any one
during his stay with me even when under the influence of something stronger than water,,
seemed welcome at every village, where all appeared to know him, was devoted in his
attentions to the fair sex, and if cajoling and coaxing on the one hand, and bullying ou the
other did not succeed in obtaining what was wanted, there was his paper and pencil ever
ready to intimidate the unfortunate culprit. This chief was of great use to me during my
trip, and with all his fanlts I like the man, he is intelligent, trusty, active and willing, and
makes a good guide to any one wishing to make a tour among the Land Dyaks of Upper'
Sarawak.
The village of Sidin in Sambas territory lies to the westward of Gumbang, and
according to the Dyaks is but a short day's walk for a native from. this
^
"^'
village. I gather from Dutch accounts that the district of Sidin is
intersected by the Kiri river, and according to the same authority forms with its Dyaks
an appendage to the rule of Pangeran Suma di Laga of Sambas, who it ivS said offered
this district in mortgage to Sir James Brooke for a loan of .$2,000. The Sidin Dyaks are-
I believe settled ou a mountain called Kumbe.
*
The following is the only account I could obtain of the origin of the Gumbang tribe
.
f v.
' of Dyaks. They descend from Gusik and Gurik, a man and woman who-
Gumba'u< Dvaks^
^^^ always lived on Gunong Api, and as already related the man de-

'
scended from fire. This couple had children, and from them were de-
scended eight Orang Kayas, Rajah Bico, Gorick, S'Biro, Pijuk, Brisis, Sungurang, G-im-
bang, and Magap. Magap lived on Gunong Pennan, a small hill at the foot of Gunong
Api, between it and Gunong Gading. After this the Sikongs appeared on the scene-
under one Manjuj, but this was before Stamod came to Sarawak.
I started on the morning of the 9th August for Tringus, and after descending the hill
for a short distance, passing through a perfect grove of fruit trees, struck out a new Una-
of march, which caused us to cross the Sibulu stream twice, and brought us to a gold
parrit worked by the Orang Kaya of Gumbang and some Chinese. These Chinese-
expected a good return for their industry, the gold here being of superior quality, as much
aa 10 taels had already been turned out. We now waded up the N'garoet stream, which
flows into the Sarawak river, crossed the Sibulu again, and crossing and re-crossing the-
*
See Yeth, Borneo's Wester Afdeeliiig, Vol. I, Chap. lY. Page 109.
40
Sarawak, here a juere mountain torreut called the Pedde, wandered over a hillj country,
which brought Ud rto.a mountain called Temudak, which we ascended and descended and
finally emerged at Pangkalun Tringua on the Si Rimau stream, which riaes in S'Bri
mountain and falls into the Sarawak river. We now came to the foot of Gunong
Tamping, a short ascent of which brought us to the village of Tringus, or as the Dyaks
would call it Si Ringgus.
The village is very prettily placed, having the Si Bungo range at its rear,'Ou its right
The village and
^ conical shaped hill called tt'Bru, or as the Malays say Si Bulu, while on
Dyaks ofTrmgus.
^^s left is Gunong S'Bri. Messrs. Graint, Chalmers, and 0. St. John are
the only Europeans besides myself who have visited -this village, which
formerly stood^ at Poran at the foot of the hill, but has been long moved to its present
site. The tribe" is under Orang Eaya Ki Mauw, a quiet and respectable individual, and like
most of these sort of characters remarkably slow, ..There are two tompoks, Poran and
Tringus, and there are two other villages, Matan which was to be my next halting place,
with 12 lawangs, and Sinyar with 8 lawangs.
Tringus paid revenue in 1873 on 60 families or lawangs which at
$3
... $18G
This year these . Dyaks paid their revenue half in rice and half in money, the paddy
crop had been good, but rats had caused heavy loss.
As usual I went to the pangga, where I was waited on by the Oraug Kaya and head
men, who spoke a good deal about the danger and difficult}' of the road hence to Matan.
I therefore suggested that men should be sent on at once to put the same in repair, so-
that I mifj^ht not be delayed, but, as heavy rain set in during the afternoon nothing was
done. I feared therefore, that I should be delayed in tliis village, the more so as two of'
my party had succumbed to fever, and had it not been for mv Malay head-man I might
have been my own cook and servant, to add to my troubles I felt far from well myself.
The morning of the 10th August found me as far from any chance of proceeding on
my inarch as the night before, heavy rain was falling, and I could induce no Dyaks to-
proceed and clear the road to JMatan.till the afternoon, when the weather moderated. Thfr
village of Tringus differs little from the other Land Dyak villages visited by me, being the
same class of ill constructed, slovenly, and shaky buildings The Pangga is small and
dirty, with 12 skulls adding a gloom to its interior; this building was not round, as were
the other head houses I had hitherto occupied, but, its .shape was irregular, with as usual
a fire-place in the centre of the edifice. The houses are all sepanite, but, run so close
together that the}- touch, the connection from the platform in front of the houses, which
are all distinct, is by means of Bamboo batangs or bridges, though the platforms often
approach one another so closely that no bridges are required. The Dyaks themselves seem
well off, and had no complaints to make, besides paddy they plant sago for home con-
sumj)tion only. I noticed the No' palm in abundance, nor was the pisung tree wanting.
Like all the tribes hitherto visited by me, the Tringus burn their dead, but, having no
peninu, the members of the deceased Dyak's family must act as sexton when necessity
calls.
I shall take the opportunity of introducing here the names of the various parts of a
Names of the
Dyak house, though these may vary a little with the various tribes,
different parts of The platform in front of a house is called the "tanju ;" the verandah
a Land Dyak "
awach ;
"
the sloping roof, which can be raised or lowered from the end
^^^^-
of the house roof, or is perhaps a continuation of it, is the
"
kumban"
(window). On entering a house, the door (" tiban") of which is generally made of bilian
or some other hard wood, we come across a passage between the fire places called the
"
ladang", while the fire place itself is called
"
apuk." There are often two fire places
right and left. The shelves above, used for storing household goods, wood <fec., are called
41
"
piyu" or
"
pyu
;
" the room itself is the "aniu
;
"
the raiued seat at the eud of the room,
used as a sitting divan and sleeping place for strangers, is the
"
jaugan" at Tringus, and
"
bakowse" at Gumbang. I have written that there are sometimes two fire places, it hap-
pened to be so in the house I was describing, in other houses T found only one fire-place
to the left of the door, the
"
piyu" being on the right.
I now come to describe the dress of the women of thia tribe, and in describing- them
Dressof the-wo-
I include also the Gumbang women and those of the other tribes I am
men of the Dyak about to visit,, who all wear nearly the same attire. The body is naked
tribe of TringTia.
to the waist ; below this is worn a short jammu or waistcloth, generally,
of a dark dirty blue colour, with frequently a red border or edging. On great occasions
and even in general wear, silver coins are often fixed to tbe end of the edging. The rarabi
of thin narrow split bamboo is worn in four or five coils round the waist, and is stained
red and not black as with the other tribes. This is allowed to hang loosely over the loins
and mixed with it are very fine brass chains called "sabit," which are worn in coils to a
.
thickness of three or four inches. The ancles are ornamented with brass rings, which
are also worn above the knee, between the wrist and elbow, and above the latter nearly to
the armpit. Bracelets of the kima shell, which when long worn resemble ivory without
its yellow tinge, are in constant use, sometimes as many as four of these bracelets (besides
the brass ones,) are worn on each arm, say two below and two above the elbow. The neck
is graced with thick coils of red or black beads. Unlike the other Dyak tribes I had
visited, the women of which went bare-headed, these Dyaks and the Gumbangs wore a
peculiar and fantastic head covering made of beads, strung perpendicularly ou a circular
wire frame, about eight inches high, made to fit the head at its base, but, tapering upwards
to the top (which is open) to about one half the circumference of its base. When worn by
the priestesses or bilian as they are called, these head dresjses are closed at the top, when
they are ofteu surmounted with a tuft of feathers or hair. The beads are always of the
game colour, viz., red, yellow, black and white. These curious head coverings are called
"
burang" by the Gumbang and Tringus tribes, though I believe they are also known as
"segubak" and "sipia" by other Dyaks, they are worn by the women of every tribe
from Gumbang to the Sadong, the Land "Dyaks of which district also make use of them.
.
The Siughis, Serambos and Sauhs are the only tribes without the burang, and these are
again the only tribes who wear the seladan. Among the Dyaks I am now about to
visit, a cloth skull cap fitting close, to the head, made of blue cloth, with a little red trim-
ming, is much aifected by the women.
I elicited little in the pangga when the Dyaks collected at night regarding the origin
of the Tringus Dyaks. I am told that the Tringus tribe descend from the Gumbang,
that is to say one half are from Gumbang, and the remainder from the
Origin of the
gtaat river, where they had settled in Stamod's time. They separated
nngns ya a.
fj-Qni Gumbang at Gunong Peniawan or Penuan.
The head-men tell me there are four paths up the Sinjang mountain to Sikong vil-
lage,one from Palaman Punduan on the Sekyam river, used by the Si Baddat Dyaks, one
from Si Puttang, and one from Tawang and another from Si Panjang.
It was at the village of Tringus that a Malay Haji named Naiu was murdered by
Murder of Haji
these Dyaks. This man came to the Orang Kaya and demanded reve-
>rain in 1871 by nue in the name of the Queen, saying, that the Raj. of Sarawak was
the Tringus Dy-
played out and the white men who had formerly held sway in the
"
country, had been replaced by servants of the Rajah Queen, who had
sent him on this errand. The Orang Kaya having doubts in his mind as to the truth of
the Haji's story, replied, that he did not refuse to pay his revenue, but, it being-
the middle of the year he was short of paddy, and would consult the Datu in Sarawak.
In the meantime the Haji claimed $2 per head from the village, threatening if he was not
paid he would attach the property of the Dyaks. Some $20
were thus collected, which
after a dispute was returned. The Haji now left the village ostensibly for Pangkalau Sibulo,
-Baying he was going to Sarawak to complain, whither the Orang Kaya was to follow him
42
next day. He (the Haji) was followed by three Tnugua Dyaka, Tajmi, Pu Kunyia, and Pa
Bumjul, but instead of taking the road to Sarawak struck off for Sidin in the Dutch
territorythis was the last that was heard of him. It seems he was attacked and killed
by the Dyaks who followed him, who, when they were arrested on suspicion, Tapoi con-
fessed that he was ])resent when the Plaji met his end, but, said he did not actually
commit the murder. The other Dyaks threw the blame on Tapoi, who escaped justice by
committino; suicide in prison. The Haji it appears was cut down by the Dyaks in the
jungle, and the body concealed b}' felling trees over it, the remains were afterwards found
in this position. At the trial which was held at Kuching in August 1871, the two -Dyaka
were 'found, guilty and e-xecute'd, and the Orang Kaya fined 2 piculs of gongs for not
reporting the' murder. The Dyaks tell me that Haji Nain, who had been living some
time in the Tringus village had been intriguing with the wives of the Dyaks who followed
him. He had criminal intercourse with the wife of Tapoi, but, did not succeed with the
others, I mention this case of Haji Nain's, as it illustrates the method of proceeding
adopted by the Malays in their acts of oppression and swindling among the unfortunate
Dyaks,
The Dj'aks of the western branch of the Sarawak river manufacture attaps or leaf
coverings for houses, not only tor their own use, but, also for sale, when in demand. This
applies particularly to the Serambos, who dispose of large quantities to the Chinese, The
Serambos make their attaps of the leaves of the rerang, sago and uipa palms, as do also
the Bomboks, but on a much smaller scale. The Singhi, Jagni, Grogo, Griimbang, Kro-
kong and Tringus use the sago palm.
We commenced our marcli from Tringus to Matan ou a wet and damp morning, in
fact deferred our departure till the sun had risen and dispelled the mist which enveloped
everything. Our road ran along the- S'Bri moLintai:i, and we had the Si Bungo range -
3,000 feet high on our left.
About half au hour's walking and we came to the Sarawak river, here called Pedde
or Si Pedde, a mere brawling mountain stream, with its waters pouring
Source of the
Q^.g^. g^ -water-fall some 80 or 40 feet high. It rises in Guuong Seraung
Sarawak nver.
^^j
creeps out between it and Si Bungo. The Dyaks tell me the Sara-
wak river has three sourcesthe Pedde which rises in Si Bungo, the Peang which rises
in S'Bri, and another source also called Pedde' rising in Seraung,
The march grew very fatiguing, about half way. it ran almost perpendicularly up
the face ot the mountain, two places, Kaliel Bobut and Kallal Niol especially, enjoyed a
very bad. reputation even among the Dyaks. They were simply pieces of wood fastened
like ladders up the face of the mountain, and a fal.se .step might have been destruction.
Altogether I experienced a great deal of difficulty in gettiuar over the ground diu-ing this
portion of my journi-v, and I was very glad when we emerged on a clearing in the jungle,
on a small hill, in the centre of which stood tiie village of Tringus Matan, consisting only
of a long Dyak house of 12 romins or doors all under one roof, with a large verandah in
front common to all.
The situation of this little village is very picturesque, standing as it does on a clearing
in the midst of a forest of old jungle, and surrounded by the Si Bungo
The village of
range 3,000 feet in height on one side, and bv the S' Bri and Seraung
Tnngus Matan,
mountains (the latter 2,650 feet high) on the other, Matan has only
been built two years, and there are no fruit-trees. The village was formerly erected on &
small hill to the southward called Tendu or Tundu, the jungle has been felled for farms
and there is every prospect of the present site being a permanent one. The people seemed
in good health, and had no complaints to bring before my notice, here for the first time
I noticed wen or goitre, of which there were two or three cases.
At 7 a, m, on the morning of the 12th August I started for Si Baddat in Ned:-Ind:
territory, my party consisting of my Abang, boy, and cooly and nine Tringua Dyaks.
43
The Orang Kaya of Tringus was to have accompanied me, but pleaded ill health' at the
last momeat.
This man had never ceased his ctforta to dissuade me from proceeding,
repeatedly urging
the difficult nature of the country to be traversed, and feeling he was
freeing himself
I imagine, from the respouaibility which might attach to him if he
followed me.
Skirting Mungo Kruah, from a point of which we had a fine view of Gunongs S'Bri
and Si Tango, on the latter of which the Trebong Dyaks have extensive clearings,, and the
former of which, though covered with old jungle is not planted, the soil being poor and
sterile (kerangas), we opened further on a landscape which emliraced the Si Tummoand
Murung mountains, the latter appearing to be part of the former. Descending Kruah we
skirted Mungo Si Tuban, a low hill with a pointed top, descending to the foot of which we
crossed the Nyap stream, which rises in Seraung and falls into the Powan, a tributary of
the Sambas river.
The water now flowing entirely to the westward and draining towards Sambas, I
Cros3 the Sa-
inferred I had crossed the Sarawak frontier, though nccording to Dutch
i-awak boundary authorities I was still well within Sarawak limits.
'*
According to these
into Ned:-Ind:
authorities the Sambas boundaries are from Cape Datu along the chain
ierntory.
q mountains to which they give the name of the Krimbang range,
(and to which they say the Goebang, Rajah, Djangui and Koemei peaks belong) to
Gunong Bajang Mioet.f
We now found ourselves on Mungo ^Turmun, and hereabouts fell in with the Babii,
a small mountain stream which rises in Seraung and falls into the Powan. Struggling
over some level ground at the foot of Seraung, roiuid which mountain our truck
led us, we came on a mountain torrent, running in a strong broad stream, which
the DyaUs informed me was Powan, one of the main sources of the Sam-
bas river. According to them the Powan rises in Seraung and separates in two
chabangs or branches, which rejoin, forming the river, wiiich falls into
Source of the
^.jjg
^^^ j^^ Paniaufikat. The Powan is known by this name from its
source till it reachs Gunonij Senuju, where it is called the Senuju.
Branching off here in two streams, one of which runs through a trusan or passage (passa-
ble for boats of two koyans burden), five hours' pulling through which brings one from,
the Senuju into what is called the Saml)as branch. The Senuju and Sambas branches
having continued their respective courses westerl}', unite at a place called Simpang Si
Batu, and from hence the river continues its course again to the sea under its original
name of Powau.
The Dutch say the Sambas river rises in the Pandan mountains on the borders of
Landak and flows first throu^h the Lara district. Near Batoe-Oedjona (sic) the river
unites itself with a tributary (the Powan I suppose) which rises more to the eastward
on the frontier of Landak, and in some maps is called Simpang S am uub, after which it
runs through the Ledo district where it is joined by a small stream of the same name, in
the neighbourhood of which is Loemar. The SambaH river having received the waters of
the Sangouw and two small streams, joins, near Soekalalang, the Kiri river, which flows to
it from Gunong Rajah on the borders of Sarawak. Thus far the general direction of
*
Yeth. Borneo'3 Weater-Aideeling, Vol. 1, Chap. IV. Page
89.
'
t
Goebang ia Gumbaug. Bajah is Gunong Bajah or Merajah, inhabited I believe by the Selacco
Dyaks. Djangui is Jagui, and Koemie is- evidently Kumbe or Sidin between Gumbang and NeuC.
Bajang Mioet is' Bajang Neut west of Gunong Sinjang.
Temminck quotes a Government decree of the year 184(i which fixes the boundaiy of Sambas in
this direction ;
'
From the Pangi mountain, the high country of Tanjoug Datu over the summits of
the mountaiua Djangui
(
? Jagui) and Gabang (? Gumbang) to the mountain Bajang called also Krim-
bang Baratjeh, and Panjeh, and Sanjang (Sinjang.)"
Bajang called Bajang Nout, and Sinjang, ai-e distinct monntaina
;
Krimbang in Dutch Maps is the
najUQ given to the Tvhole range of mountains. Temminck appears to have confused the names in his
Geography. See Temininck, Coup D'Oeil General anr lea Possessions Neerlandaiaea dan I'Inde Ar-
chipolagique; Vol- ii. Page 151.
.!;'
-
44
the SAinbaB la northward, but, Lere it bends southwest ami follows this coui'se to the
sen. '-A little' lower down there is a naturni cannl or ti'nsim, which joins the rivei' with
one of its branches ciiUeii the lesser Sambas river, and which a<aiu re-tuiites with the
main stream three or four hours froui its mouth. Previously, however, it. receives ajiain
from its northern side, several small streams such,as the Boemi and Bulai'i.just as the
lesser Sambas, which after uiiitin<; with its two upper branches joins itself with some
others like the Semanis, before it is poured out atrain to the southward in the main
river. Onthe Semauis are the Chiuess Settlements of Scnuuiis and Sebawi.
*
I now resume the account of my jo\irney. It is difficult to describe the character of
our march. -Junj-le surrounded us on ever}' side, but', I occasionally caught glimpses of
the most'^beautiful scenery, it was however Ji continued tramp^ affording no leisure to
cmtemulate what I should really have enjoyed. Rain fell all day (it is always raining in
these districta), encouraaing the leeches to attack us, and my legs soon fell victims to
their murderous onslaughts. Dirty, tired, bleeding from leech bites, silent, sulky and
morose, Ave continued the even tenor of our way, broken only v/hen some one of the party
staggered, or tumbled over the broken road, or when 1 called for a hurried halt to ask
where we were, and to jot down my notes, on which occasion advantage Avas taken by one
of ray followers to scratch the leeches from my legs. In this condition we commenced
the ascent of Gnnong Si Tuuimo. Hitherto our road had been over hills of moderate
altitude, the trace lying over an abandoned DyaU track with rotten bridges and batangs,
and long grass. We had now to settle down to surmount one of the highest mountains
I had yet ascended. We first passed through old jungle where the path was steep, and
from the broken nature of the ground even dangerous. One place in particular, regarding
which the Tringus Dyaks had warned me before starting and called Suban Gundo, cer-
tainly tried my activity and climbing powers to the utmost. We climbed the sheer face
of the mountain by our hands and knees, holdinji on l)y the stones, roots of trees, and
branches of shrubs and saplings, the pleasure of all this being heightened by the know-
ledge that a backward fall would hurry one over a semi-precipice down the face of tin:
mountain. Some three hours of this kind of work in a torrent of rain, and we halted for
half an hour for a hurried meal, when I took the opportunity of changing my clothes,
which rain, mutl and wear had so acted on that I had nearly no covering left. We had
not succeeded in reaching the smnmit of the mountain, and at this point my Malay
Abang und boy began to show signs of distress, one half the Dyaks had out-mnrch-
ed us, and the remainder would' have followed had I not restrained them. As for
myself I still held out, l)ut the monotony of the march was very tiring, and the
leeches were a sad pest. AVe now came to some felled guttah "trees belonging to the
Tringus Dyaks, Avho work these jungles as far as Suban Gundo, they belong how-
ever to the Si Baddats, who explore the other portion. After about half an hour's
climbing we came to a place called Kekkat Sebirin, and beyond this Qoun Russ, the
climbing of both these places Avas fearful Avork, and the Orang Kaya of Tringus had
predicted that I should not surmount them, but Ave did, and were now so to say on
the summit of Si Tummo, though there was a further climb to a spot called Kiikiit
Tetang. We Avere AvalkiiJg on the summit of the mountain, on a ridwe, the sides
sloping down almost perpendicularly on either hand, Avith a track about five feet wide
to travel overthe mountain might almost be said to have no top. I can oilly com-
pare the summit to a book placed on its front edge, slightly opened, while I Avalked oa-cv
that portion of the volume Avhere one reads the title. The back or the book repre-
sents our path, and on either hand Avere almost sheer precipices. This was particularly
the case at Kukut Tetanij, where for perhaps 20 or 30 feet the road avs not four feet
widewith on either side an abrupt descent. Here, 1 began a gradual descent along a
narrow trace facing the side of the mountain, where I had the greatest difficulty in
keeping my footing. The Malays were far in the rear, and the Dyaks had been sent
on to prepare the Si Baddats for my advent, and my sole companion was Orang Kaya
Murung of Gumbang. Together Ave ascended Aten Stimn, Avhich was so steep that no
sooner were we on the summit than we had again to descend. Next followed Aten
Spora, which was ascended and descended in the same way, and we noAV travelled over what
*
VetliBoraeo's Weetor-Afdoeliug, Vol : I Chap. 17. Page 90. -
45
the Dyaks called level ground, but proved Dothiuf;; more than an abandoned path with
rotten batangs, bamboo bridges, Sec, buried in grass, amongst which, ns it was now growing
dark, 1 managed to bruise my person very considerably. We now reached the foot of
Gunong Pugi or Puggi. So fur, the Orang Kaya had helped me and did what he could to
smooth the difficulties, but it now became so dark that I refused point blank to proceed
any further, although assured by my companion that the village was close to us. Out of
this dilemma, we were brought by Dyaks appearing with torches, who carried us iu tri-
ijraph to the head-house, whilst others proceeded to collect the rest of our party. I now
found myself at the village of Si Baddat, on a spur of Gunong Kedda called Jara.
I was glad to find the shelter in the pangga from the heavy rain now fulling,
,\.mvo afc the
*his building' however was small, and we were most inconveniently
village of Si Bad- crowded, my party of thirteen having to find accomodation in addition to
f'^*'-
to the former occupants. In the absence of the Orang Kaya at his farm,
I was hospitably received by an olJ, half-witted Dyak named Gnsa, who had formerly held
the Orang Kayaship, but, had resigned his functions in favor of the present holder of the
appointment, Susup. In return for tobacco I had no trouble in procuring fowls and
rice, and after a hurried meal the whole party was soon asleep, leaving Murung still
talking to the ex-Orang Kaya Gasa, in whom he had found an old friend. At mid-
night I was woke up by a series of most diabolical yells, which brought me to my feet
with a start, my first impression being that the two Orang Kayas had been quarelling,
and Murung was ill-treating his friend. It turned out that these tAVo chiefs, instead of
going to bed, sat up drinking arrack and talking over former times and events, this Avas
followed by singing songs according to custom, one against the other, illustrative of Dyak
love and war. These songs and the drink had so excited the little intellect left in Gasa,
that he expressed his appreciation of his friend and his happiness iu general by continued
yelling, and our united efforts could not cause him to desist, notwithstanding that
Murung did all he could to soothe and pacify his friend. We now communicated Avith
Gasa's wife, who sent his little daughter "to bring papa home", but, papa preferred yell-
ing on the steps of the pangg>i,and finally the wife herself appeared and added the cackle
and jabber of her tongue to the general din and confusion. Losing my temper I pushed
Murung and his friend . head over heels out of the pangga, when the latter fell on the
verandah of the villasje houses, and the last I heard of this old fool was a noisy and angry
altercation blended with the singing of songs in the Orang Kaya's house.
The following are the names of the Dyak tribes visited, with the positions of their
villages:

^
Serambo, Peninjauh and Bombok on Guuong Moan.
Singhi on Gunong Tingga.
Grogo on Sungei Suba.
Snba near the Sarawak river (left bank).
Krokong on Gunong Prasun.
. Jagui on Gunong Jagui.
Aup ,on Gunong Scalup.
Gumbaug on Gunong Api.
Tringua on
^
Gunfng Tnmpiug.
46
<:HArTi:K a'
The TJUiipie :tu<l Dyaks oi Si Baddiic. Ltiud Dviik tribes formerly j)a.yiiig
revenue to Sarairak.
The Sarah amongst the Dy:ik.s in the RaugouTr 'I'erritory. Dyak tribes ou the Sekyam river below
Sikoug. Poisoning pi'opensitios of the Dyaks. Cannibalism amongst the Mcribun and Tincang or
Jincang Dyaks. Landslip on Gunong Prang. Palanian Punduau of the Sikong Dyaks. Source of the
Sekyam river. The village and Dyaks of Sikoug. Annum Orang Kaya of Sikoug. Descend the
Sekyam river on a bamboo raft. The village and Dyaks of Si Panjang. The village of Siu'oh. Origin
of the Si Paujang and Suroh Dyaks. The village of Goon Getta and the Goon Dj'aks.
13th August.I was not sorry to learn that circumstances would compel m)"^ stayius;
At Si Baddat all day. I had first to await the arrival of the Orang Kaya, I had also to send
a inessenger in advance to inform the Sikougs of my intended visit) and moreover there
were stores &c. at Tringus which the chief of that tribe had promised to forward and
which had to be waited for. Personally I suffered comparatively little from the fatigue
of our march of yesterday, but my feet and legs were in a sad state from leech-bites and
wounds, so that I was glad of rest. The Abang, who was very foot-sore, inveighed heartilr
against such a long tramp, maintaining we ought to have made a lanco in the jungle and
divided the journey into two marches. My Malay boy had been attacked by fever so far
back as Tringus ; he broke down under the work of yesterday, and was now completely
prostrate. I therefore decided upon sending him back to Sarawak via Pangkalan
Ampat, as in his present condition he was perfectly useless. This Malay tried to persuade
the Abang to use his influence to deter me from proceeding to Sikong, saying we had
been repeatedly cautioned in Sarawak not to visit these Dyaks, who, bore a bad reputation
and would probably make away with us. On hearing this I was only too glad to gee
rid of my timid follower, though at the same time I regretted parting with him, as it,
reduced my Malays to only two men. The Malay cooly who attended me was also foot^
sore, and as was the case also with myself, suffered from strained sinews of the leg, (the
result of hill climbing) attended Avith some pain and swelling in the groin.
The Tringus Dyaks who had followed me with my kit thought nothing of the
journey, and returned to their village this morning as fresh as Avhen they started. Some
of their companions put in an appearance at about 2
p.
m., having thus accomplished the
distance from Matan in some five hours under our time. I may here observe that the
Dyak tribes visited by me from Tringus to Sumbau, were all incomparably superior to the
other tribes, on the "Western and Southern branches ofthe Sarawak and the Samarahan rivers
in carrying heavy burdens over a mountainous country, arid at their feasts were harder,
-di-inkcrs. Not that the Dyaks are drunkards, on the contrary they are very abstemious,
and it is only at their feasts that they exceed. "Where the Dyaks have been much
brought in contract with Chinese and others, as is the case on the "Western branch, they
have developed a taste for arrack, but, except at their festivals one rarely if ever sees
them overcome. The Dyaks between Tringus and Sumban occupy a very
mountainous
country, and their hills are higher,and join one another, forming in fact ranges, affording
a striking contrast with the isolated hills with level ground between, such as is generally-
met with in parts of Sarawak Proper where also the hills are lower. The effects of this
exhibit themselves in the character of the people physically and perhaps morally.
Diu-in^ the day the Orang Kaya arrived and gave me a hearty
welcome, with pro-
mises of every assistance. Although his wife (of whom he appeared very fond) was
seriously ill, this chief determined to accompany me to Sikong, saying he would never
forgive himself if any mischief befel me while I was in his country. The Orang Kaya,
who was hoispitality itself, was distinguished by a modest, respectful manner, but while
taking an interest in his people and all that concerned them, seemed perfectly aware of his
47
positiou as cliief oftlie tribe iind Icnew ho\r to maiutaiij it. It was decided to aciid oui
a messenger to Fund nan, a Sikoug- village ou the Sekyam river, to annouiu'e my advent;:
from Punduan notice of my intended visit would be sent to Silcoug, ^Thither T ^vas to-
proceed next day being- assured of a cordial reception.
I
I bad now time to inspect the village whicb is erected on a spiiv of Guuoiig Kedd6,
-ailed Jara. The village which is divided into two tompoks is surrounded with fruit trees,,
witb the Sago, No, and Rerang palms ( from the leaves of tiie latter the Dyaks raanu-^
factnre attaps), while Krebaugs, vegetables and Jagong are planted in -mall (quantities.
The houses are in much the same condition as tho.se of other Land
ij ak* ^''"l^i3^"if
^y^^^ tribes, they are constructed difterent from those of Siughi and
(lat^
*
" ' *
"
Serarabo. Each house is separate and has a platform of its own cou-
nected by bamboos with that of its neighbours
;
they are steep, have no
verandah, while the door and window is formed by propping up the lower part of the roof
with sticks. There are two bead-houses with an aggregate of 20 skulls, these buildings
are constructed with higher roofs, not round, bvit irregular in shape, small and dirty,
;
The tribe of Si Baddat is under the Orang Kayaship of Susup, who succeded Gusa, who
though still alive is too old and infirm to interfere in affairs. There is also a lesser chief
named Merin, a son of Gusa, who enjoys the title of Orang Kaya Tamangang, I was told
that Gusa's father was a Trebong Dyak, his mother a Si Baddat. He himself as well as his
wife were born in the village here, though Snsup's father was from Tabiah and his mother
from Sikong. The Si Baddat Dyaks do not appear to be in want, having plenty of flint
muskets, gongs, and Dyak valuables in all the head-men's houses. Physically they are in-
ferior to most of our tribes, but these Dyaka are good boat-buildei-s and boatmen. -They
like the other tribes burn their dead, though the corpses of the poorer members of the
community are thrown away in the jungle. The women are not good-looking, I may write
in fact that they are hideous, they dress similarly to the Tringus and Gumbangs, but do
not seem to wear the bead head-dress (burang) so frequently as those Dyaks. Both kinds,
of burang are worn, the open one in daily use, the closed one on feast-days and then only
I fancy by the priestesses. At Si Baddat I met the soil of Abang Pandak, pembakal oi*^
agent of the Sultan of Sangouw; this j'^oung man was here from Bali Karangan
collectings
the revenue. I was unable to find out the exact number of these Dyaks. The Orang
Kaya assured me he paid revenue to Sangouw on 20 lavvangs, though the actual number is-
00, the rate being 2 Sangouw passus of paddy, equal to 4 passus Sarawak. Abang Pan-
dak, whom I met at Si Panjang, fixes the number oflawangs paying revenue at 38 while the-
Dyaks will only pay on 20. The revenue amongst these tribes appear to be paid in a very
loose and irregular way, the Malays having neither the energy to regulate or the means
of enforcing their demands. The Si Baddats have been a much larger tribe and according
to their accounts once numbered as many as 100 lawangs, but, like the Gumbangs and.
many of our Land Dyaks they suffered fearfully in 1853 from small-pox.
In former times Si Baddat, Sikong, Si Panjang, Suroh and Goon all paid revenue to-
Sarawak. These Dyaks considered they belonged to Sarawak, as from.
Land Dyak tribes
time immemorial they had been subservient to Bruni, and to this day^
TfloSrtoSarawi^!''
Sequent Pangkalan Ampat for trading purposes. In olden times how-
ever the revenue must have been very irregularly paid, but, this applies
to all the Land Dyak tribes. Be this as it may, all the above tribes assert that they were
subjects of Bruni, and paid revenue to that state as our old accounts if they could be found
would prove. In 1858, Mr. G., the revenue officer, adopting the course he afterwards
followed at Gunbang and Jagui, decided that as these tribes were situated on the Sangouw
.side of the water-ghed, they should be abandoned and no longer reciconed as subjects of"
the Rajah of Sarawak. The Orang Kaya of Si Baddat as well as the head-men of the
district I was now in, resolutely reject Mr. G.'s argument, and maintain that the water-
.shed had nothing to do with their boundary, which they said was miles beyond the water-
shed. Mr. G., continued these Dyaks, never visited the villages in question, (he erected
II lanco on one of the hills behind 8i Baddat,) never called the headmen together, or heard
what ther had to plead in their own defence. Nor was Sangouw anxious to adopt them,.
48
for it Tvas not till nearly six .years afterwards that they were asked to pay revenue. 8ome'<
tribes to this day, notably Sikong, refuse to pay their tax,.and those that do so, do so very
irregularly and indiflferently. All the tribes I have (juoted above trade with Pangkalan
Ampat, where they procure everything infinitely cheaper than they can from Pontianak, the
depot for goods from whence being at Si Panjang or rather Suroh. Owing however to the
great distance of these places from Pontianak, the price of such goods as Dyaks delight
in, is considerably higher there than at Pangkalan Ampat, salt especially being dearer on
the Saugouw side than on ours. The Orang Kaya compared the price of salt at Si Pan-
jang, with that ruling at Pangkalan Ampat, and asked me to draw my own conclusions.
For 1 gantang of salt at Suroh or Si Panjang they exchange 6 gantangs of rice, while at
Pangkalan Ampat 1 gangtang of rice would pui-chase a gautang of salt, and everything
else was in proportion. With ray limited knowledge of the country, the people and the
<[uestion in dispute, it Avould perhaps be rash and arrogant on my part to venture any
opinion on the merits of the case. But, 1 may say that it seems strange to abandon a
portion of territory to which apparently no claim had been set up, and our title to which,
had never been disputed. Had these tribes continued under om- rule we should have held
-a commanding position on the Sekyam river, with two landing-places, one at Si Panjang'
.and another at Suroh. The district abounds in mineral wealth, both cinnabar and an-
timony having been reported to me by the natives, and diamonds and gold exist in almost
every river I met with. It would have been easy for Sarawak to have held these Dyaks
in hand, for as the Orang Kaya of Sikong replied to me when I asked him if he would pay
revenue to Sarawak,
"
I must pay if the Kajah demands tribute, for I obtain all my sup-
plies from Pangkalan Ampat, and if this was closed to me I should perish." Had this
district remained under Sarawak, most of the trade of Sangouw and even that from dis-
tricts further distant, would have found its way to Sarawak through Suroh, Si Panjang
and Pangkalan Ampat. At certain seasons ofthe year, Bali Karangan which is but two days
pull down the Sekyam from Suroh, is crowded with Chinese and Malays working gold,
these might all have drawn their supplies from Sarawak. Again, the revenue paid by
these tribes and lost to us, must have been considerable, for the liand Dyak tax costs
little in collecting, and would fully have covered the expense of administration. In con-
clusion, I must add that I make these remarks with the greatest diffidence, I am in no posi-
tion to judge the policy which dictated the repudiation of these Dyaks, all I know is that
the people regret it heartily.
I must now discuss at some length an abominable system of oppresssion which the
Malays have introduced amongst these Dyaks for pm-poses of extortion
The Snrah a-
and Spoliation^ though they strive to hide it under the specious name
mongstthe_^Djaks
^^ revenue. I refer, to the Sarah, which was once as much in force
Territory.

amongst the Land Dyaks in Sarawak territory, as it now is across the
frontier. The abolition of the practice or custom of Sarah, was one of
the first steps taken by Sir James Brooke when he became Eajah, and no act of this great
man ever did more to ameliorate the condition of the Land Dyaks, and deliver them
from the state of bondage into which they had been reduced by the Malays, than did this
freeing them from an arbitrary and pernicious impost, and establishing a fixed revenue
with which Government was contented to rest satisfied. I cannot do better than abstract
a short account of the Sarah, and its eifects on the Dyaks when Sir James assumed the
reins of government, using his own words. "The Dyaks paid a small revenue of rice,
"but this deficiency of revenue was made up by sending a quantity of goodschiefly
"
salt, Dyak cloths, and ironand demanding a price for them six or eight times more
"
than their value. "When the Patingi had received all he thought proper to extort,
"
claiming mats, fowls, fruit, and every other necessary at pleasure, making likewise the
"
Dyaks work for him, for merely a nominal remuneration, he was followed by his relatives
""
who claimed the right of arbitrary trade. Gradually it was extended as the privilege
"
of every respectable person to
"
Sarah
"
the Dyaks. These numerous and uninvited
"
guests came and went at pleasure, lived in free quarters, made their requisitions, and
'*
then forced the Dyaks to carry away for them the very property of which they had been
^'robbed.^'*
Koppel, The Expedition to Borneo Ac, Yol. II, Pages 178-7P.
49
The above picture may be sketched as nearly the condition of the Dyaks at the hands
of the Malays at the present day in the villages I visited. There exists however this
<Hi!Ference between the tvro pictures, that whereas the Sarawak Malays could always crush
opposition by collecting a bala of Sea Dyaks, and letting loose these savages on any tribe
that resisted their extortionate demands, the Sangouw Malays, restrained by the Diittk
authorities, and by the inacessibility of the country, cannot resort to such measures. The
Dyaks therefore in these districts do not suffer as did their brethren in former times in
Sarawak territory, though the burden seems heavy to bear. The Dyaks made their com-
plaints to me apparently so truthfully and fairly, that I am incline(l to consider their
grievances under instead of over-rated. The Sarah for instance was in force at Si Baddat;.
with the claim for asseil or tax came a jammu or woman's waist cloth to each house, for
"vvhich 6 gantangs of rice were demanded, iron
1^
feet in length, 3 inches wide, 6 gan-
tangs, while again a suku (25 cents of a rupee) left with each lawaug led to a claim of 5
gantangs of rice. No sooner has one impost of this kind been paid than another arrives,
if not indentical in nature, equally oppressive, and this on repeatedly through the year.
The Orang Kaya resists, and refuses payment, but what can he do ? He fears quarrelling
with his rulers, and he is eventually compelled to accede to these iniquitous demands.
The Sikong tribe trusting to the inaccessibity of their country refuse payment, and ap-
pear to defy both Dutch and Malay authority. In justice to the Dutch it must be said
that the Dyaks laid no complaint against their officials, it was the Malays who oppressed
them, and the Dutch probably did not even know how the people were treated. The
Dutch controlleur visited Sikong or Si Panjang once or twice in the year for a day or-
two, he was then accompanied by a large following of
'Malay chiefs, when the Orang
Kayas only were allowed to approach him and then only in the presence of the Malays.-
The Dyaks were therefore afraid to state their grievances, and if they did, Ihey met with
no redress, for the controlleur appeared more or less at the mercy of his Abangs and chiefs,,
and was led by their opinions and advice.
At night the pangga was crowded with Dyaks, there was no feasting, but I w as-
treated to gong-beating, which according to these people was the equivalent of music.
Amidst the noise which prevailed I found it difficult to carry on a conversation with the
Orang Kaya, but I elicited that Mr. Everett and myself were the only Europeans Avho-
had visited the village. This chief expressed himself freely on the politics of his tribe-
and country, principally on the questions above mentioned, and professed himself an
admirer of Sarawak, the capital of which he had often visited for trading purposes.
I learnt from this chief the names of the tribes between Sikong and Sangouw. Below
Sikong was Si Panjang, and an hours pull down the Sekyam was Suroh,..
Uyak tribes on
the Dyaks of which tribe had migrated from Si Panjang. Six hours
betow SikoLg.
"''^
below Suroli were the Poyu or STmpioDyaks, four hours thence the Mancos,.
further down the Suntas, below them again the Sii-ankans, who were-
followed by the Powas Dyaks who were above Bali Karangan, which was only 2 days
pulling from Suroh. Descending the Sekyam from Bali Karangan are the Munjid Dyaks
who are followed by the Pappan tribe, they again by the Garis, while below them are the
Beduyi people, after which comes Sangouw, which takes 3 days in a prahu from Bali Kji-
jangan, and Sintang is perhaps 3 days further down.
The Orang Kaya in discussing the people and country showed a good deal of intelli-
gence. In his younger days he had visited many of the tribes not only
Poisoning pro-
jq j^jg immediate vicinity, but others far distant. He confirmed what I
]>ak3.*^
" '
*
^^^ heard in Sarawak, that poison and its secret and deadly properties
were not unknown, and were made use of both by Malays and Dyaks in
these countries. We Avere discussing Annum the chief of the Sikongs and his supposed
evil propensities, regarding all of which I expressed my disbelief and rated them as fabri-
cations. The Orang Kaya replied that some Landak Dyaks once sold him what they said
was poison. It was a powder white in colour, and he laid it by for nearly a year not
knowing what to do with it. Having a violent (p.arrel with a Dyak enemy who had
50
threatened td till him, lie tniised Some of" the powder in -bis 'enemy's chalk which Ire used
,
with hiB siri,.'*''and do you know, tu an," said this solemn savage to rae, "lie was taken ill,
'
and in four days he was dead." It is but fair to add that the Orang Kaya at once threw
away the poison, it was not Dyak adat he said to kill an enemy in this manner, besides
having a wife and children he dreaded keeping it in his possession. This story was told
so naturally and coollywith such a grave and earnest countenance tliat I do not hesitate
to believe it.
"We now entered on another phase of Dyak life. I was a,ssured by the Orang Ka)'a
that when he visited the Meribun and Tincang or Jincang Dyaks he
Cannibalism a-
found them to be cannibals. These Dyaks live on the Batang Munki-
bun Ind Tincang or
7^"??
"^ar Muntong and Muntu, not far from the head-waters of the
Jincang Djaks." iSadoug river, near Senankan Knjan. The Sekyam is descended as far as
Tanjong Priu, whence you ascend Sungei Meribun where these monsters
are to be met Tvith. When in their village, the Orang Kaya himself saw them eating a
body. The custom is to take only the heads ofenpmies, but, when an individual of the
tribe dies, the body is sold and even women and children partake of the flesh. The man
in question was not old, and his corpse was exchanged for a tajow, the Dyaks seeming to
relish most the soles of the feet, and palms of the hands. These Dyaks who are credited
with making and using poisons, treated him well while he was in their village, they are
great cowards and ten of these Dyaks will run from one of another tribe. The Malay
Abang confirming this story, said that when he was collecting revenue at Muntong and
Muntu, which belong to Sarawak, the party he was with were always on their guard against
the Meribun and Tincang -Dyaks. and at night erected fences studded with ranjow's as a
protection against these brutes. Malays and others who frequented these Dyak villages
were well received, and their presence was in fact sought after. Draham my Malay cooly
said he had seen with his own eyes palms of hands and soles of feet oyer the fire-place
when he was in one of their villages. I have made some enquiries into the truth of the
above statement, and I am assured by the Resident ofSadong that they are untrue.
"
"What-
ever may have been the propensities of these Dyaks," says he,
"
there is no foundation in the
report that they now indulge in this inhuman practice." Abang Pandak, pembakal of the
Sultan of Sangouw, told me when I met him in Sarawak, that the story was a fabrication,
but ills denial carried no conviction, as it appeared made from motives of contradiction,
and in defence of the Raj under which he served, he confessed to having heard the stories,
but had never visited the Dyaks in question. I have since learnt from Mr. Crocker the
Resident of Sarawak, that when he was on a journey from the head-waters of the Sadong
to Silanteh, he put up one night at a Dyak house. Entering into conversation with
the inmates, he discovered an old Malau Dyak from the Kapuas district. Tliis
man, called Jamon, who had led a roving life, told him that the Mualangs of Jincang,
who inhabit the head-waters of the Kapuas river, in the vicinity of the Sekyam are or were
cannibals. Jamon went on a head-hunting expedition against these Jincangs and killed
four of them, losing two of his friends. The Jincangs ate his friends, leaving only their
entrails. These Dyaks have not only given up this practice, but are so ashamed of it.
that the mere mention of the former custom is a grave offence.
*
* "
In the district of Sangau, extending several days in every direction, there are three tribes of
"
Dyaka numbering 500 lawangs and probably 3,000 aouli. Two of these tribes are several days in the
"
interior on the banks of the Skiam. , One of these, the Jangkang, is addicted to the horrible practice
"
of canuihaliBm. Except this and a single tribe on the EaHtern coast we have not heard of any other
"
portion of the people who eat human flesh. That the practice prevails to no inconsiderable extent
"
among this tribe there is no longer in our minds the shadow of a doubt. One man-with whom we con-
'
versed had seen themmaking their meal on the human frame. They themselves confess it with boasting
"
and give as a reason for the horrid custom that it makes them courageous. How could we be brave,
"
said one man, if we had never tasted human flesh. They do not eat indiscriminately all parts of the
'
body, but with a most horrid kind of Epicurism, feast with the greatest relish upon the tongue, brain,
"
and muscles of the leg. The men of this tribe file down their front teeth to a point like the teeth of
"
a saw. This, while it may fit for the indulgence of their favorite propensity, adds not a little to the
''
ferocious appearance of these man-eaters. The practice of cutting off heads is also their confession
"
and boast. They seem to consider it their greatest glory. An old man of great muscular strength
*'
drew his sword and with an exulting smile declared that with it he had decapitated twelve men
51
On the morning of the 14th August I was on my way to Punduan. Passing through
the Tillage of Si Baddat we emerged on one of the southern slopes of Kedd6, and from,
here I obtained a magnificent view ofa number of mountains stretching away to the west-
ward and southward. Gxmong Siujang was in front of me, and then west and south the
Krun, Jojong, Prang, Marung, Munja, Minjang, and S' Baba mountains, while far to the
westward was Neut or Bajang Neut.
Last year during the north-east monsoon, an immense land-slip took place on
Gunoug Prang or Perang, burying forty five Dyaks of the Tawang tribe
Laiid-ghpouGu-
jj, the debris. Even at the great distance at which I stood, I could dis-
noDg laiig.
tinctly perceive that the whole face of the mountain had disappeared.
It seems there were two rolls, the first about 1 a. m., and the last tit 5 a. m., the first being-
perhaps less violent than the second. At Punduan the ground shook, aud regularly quaked
with the reverberation of the crash of the falling earth. The stream of the Sekyam was
encumbered with trees, and the fish died out. The river which had hitherto been deep,
with large boulders scattered over its bed, having pools between them, now became so
shallow that the boulders were no longer visible, and the whole stream is full of a fine black
sand, mixed with white particles, which covers everything. Through this landslip anti-
mony ore in large quantities was exposed on the mountain, and according to the Dyaks
is nearly pure, free from limestone, and offine quality. Report says the ore lies in seami,
and before it could be worked an immense overhanging mass of earth and trees would have
to be removed. Sepi, a Serambo Dyalc who is living here is said to have visited Prang, and
Been the ore, which he says is a good as any in Upper Sarawak. This Dyak should know
what good ore is, as he was born in the antimony districts, has long worked for the
Borneo Co. at B.U6U, and has frequented their workings for years. The Sekyam. river is
navigable for boats of one koyan burden as far as Prang.
An hour's walk from the village brought us to the Batun stream, which rises in
EIedd6 and falls into the Bannun which latter has its source in Si Tummo, falling into the
Sekyam. We next came to the Bannun, crossing which two or three times, we finally
waded.up its bed to a considerable distance, and then halted just above i\. tanjong or point,
round which the Bannun effects its junction with the Sekyam. The road now followed
the left bank of the Sekyam, here broad but shallow, its bank and bed covered with fine
sand, amongst some of the particles of which I thought I could trace antimony. Crossing
the river, our path for a short time ran through scrub jungle, emerging from which w
found ourselves at the Sikong village of Punduan.
Punduan, apalaman* or temporary village of the Sikong tribe, consists of 12 lawangb
and is under Orang Kaya Appir. The houses are small and dirty, and
Pdlamnn Pun-
the inhabitants wretched beings who suffer as do some of the Tringus,
Dy'ks!
' * '
^
^^ Baddats, Si Panjangs and Goons, from g6itre, korap (ring-worm) ami
from a disease of the legs called
"
puccong " by the Malays, and
"
Bupach" by the Dyaks, and which appears to be a form of leprosy. According to the
Orang Kaya here, Punduan paid revenue to Sangouw on 12 lawangs, the rate being
1^
Sarawak passus. This is at variance with what I was told by Abang Pandak, who said
the village was taxed at 1 gantang of iron equal to 1 real per lawang. Tobacco ii
planted by the Sikongs, in fact more or less throughout the district. It is grown amongst
the stumps of the bamboos, after the land has been cleared and burnt for paddy farms.,.
in this situation it is said to flourish. Domestic bees are kept by the Sikongs and Si
*
'
,' When we eipresBed our abhorrence of the practice and our hope that in fntnre they would live in
/peace with each other, another old man said,
'
but if we have a debt we must discharge it.' Thus when
/
one head is cut oE it creates a debt which, in the opinion of the parties concerned, must not be suffered
^' to remain uncancelled ; but the cancelling creates a fresh demand for blood.

Journal
of
a tour oii,
'
the Kapuag tJi 1840.

Journal
of
the Indian Archipelago, vol. 1 New Series, No.
1,
page, 104-05.
*
A
'
palaman
"
is a temporary village or settlement which sometimeB as in the present instance,
becomes permament. Tebut at Serin, Kuap at Suntah, and Baru at Sukar, are cases in point, as ihey
were originally only temporary hamlets, but, are now regular villages though paying revenue witk
the tribe.
52
Panjangs, biit, not by the Si Buddai or Goons, and the 8ikoup5 aud Gooiis build no boii^>t
nrc poor boatmen, contrasting badly in this respect with the Si Panjangs and Surohs.
The Datch author Vcth says that the Sekyani river rises in Bajang Mioet,* (called
Neut by the Dyaks). On the other baud, the Sikongs told me it rose
s-kTamHvei
^" Guiiong Jojong, flows to the eastward of Praug. and bending round
washes the northern foot of Sinjang.
At Punduan I was met by Banggo, the younger brother of the Orang Kaya of Si
Paujcng, who, had been deputed to invite me to visit this tribe. From Si Baddat I had
fsent to the Orang Kaya asking him to despatch a boat to Punduan to convey me on my
return from Sikong to Si Panjang, as I contemplated proceeding thence to Goon, en route
to Tabiah. Banggo reported a boat in readiness, but, on my accepting the Oraug Kaya's
invitation, the crew at once returned to collect the tribe, and prepare a feast, while Banggo
Ticcompanied me to Bikong. At night the house where 1 was staying was filled with
Dyaks, who eventually grew very noisy, and beat gongs through the whole night, making
sleep impossible. I talked with the headmen "whose chief grievance was the Sarah. Si-
kong appears to be visited once in the year by a Dutch official, who seems unpopular, and
the complaint against whom appears to be that he kept the people at a distance, commu-
nicating only with them through the Orang Kayas, in the presence of the Malay A.bangs,
who with their followers numbered from 200 to 300 souls. Yet, after all the Dutch were
%iot BO much blamed as the Malays, to whom the Dyaks attribute all their troubles.
Annum the Orang Kaya of Sikong was spoken of by his own people as an unscrupulous
man, who was evidently much feared. He was accused among other crimes of appropria-
ting the goods of any stranger who might be staying in his village. His power was kept
somewhat in check by the other Orang Kayas, and I was assured of being well received,
and heartily welcomed by Annum and the Sikongs, who would be delighted to meet a
Sarawak European for the first time in their village.
It was late on the morning of the 15th August when we started from Punduan.
My followers consisted of my two Malays, the Orang KayaB of Punduan, Si Baddat, and
Gunibang, Banggo of Si Panjang, and a few Sikong Dyaks to carry the kit. The march
was a most fatiguing one, and tried my walking powers to their very utmost. The path
(if such even it can be called) was carried along the sloping sides of a number of small
hills, entailing occasional scrambling, and clinging to shrubs and roots of trees, causing
31 severe strain on the legs. "We were delayed by disputes, and petty wrangling amongst
the chiefs as to which Wvas the best, or the nearest road <fec., there appearing to be a great
difference of opinion on this point. On approaching Sikong we had to clamber over the
fallen timber in a jungle clearing, which was ready for burnini,' off; emerging from this we
liad no difficulty in reaching the village, situated not on the summit, but on one of the lower
slopes of Gunong Sinjang. The road from Punduan had been so bad, that I resolved
not to return by it, and Banggo undertook to bring a boat up the Sekyam to a pangkalan
near the foot of Sinjang, to convey me to Si Panjang on my return from Sikong. How
this Dyak disappointed me and caused me to lose a day, I shall relate further on.
Following the advice given me, I went to the house of the late Orang Kaya, Mangko
Eumi, and became the guest of his widow. There are two other Orang Kayas, Pa Budan
and Pa Jigi, who were both absent. Annum is the chief Orang Kaya, his house was
pamali on the occasion of my visit, yet although he sent a message to welcome me, I had
heard enough of his character and antecedents, to have decided me into declining his
hospitality even had it been proffered. The Sikong tribe is under three
The Tillage nnd
chiefs, 1st Anuum, with the title of Agus Radin Tamangangand then
l>ykB of RikoDg.
Qj.^jjg Kaj&s Pa Jigi and Pa Budan. There was fomerly another
ohief now dead, whose house I occupied, and who enjoyed the title of Tamangang prefixed
*
Veth. Borneo's "Wester-Afdeeling Vol. I Page 44.
According to tlie Dutch authority above, Mioet or Neut is on the borders of Sambas, between
fj/tratoah and Landah, thus bringing the Sarawak boundary as far as Neut which is to the Bouth-weat
of Sinjang.
53
to his name Mauj^ko Buiul. Sikoiig may bo .said to be divided into three so-called
parties. Annum represents Landak, his ancestors being supposed t^ have come from that
country. The late Mangko Bumi represented Sambas for the same reason. Orang Kaya
Pa Jigi's ancestors having come from Tabiah, he is looked on as the representative of
Sarawak. The villag'^ is built on a shoulder of the Siiijaiio- mountain, about one third of
the way up, and is as dirty as any Land Dyak village; liltli and refuse are profusely
scattered over the place, pigs abound under all the houses, which as at Si Baddat are all
separate. If a round, flat cheese were cut through the centre into four equal parts, and tlui
rounded end of one pared down so as to permit of its standing upright on its own base,
this would exactly represent the shape of one of these houses. The whole front and back
of the roof come to the ground of the tanju before, and to the floor at the back. The
buildings are connected with one another to the different platforms or tanjus by bamboos,
~the tanjus themselvs being aUo constructed of large bamboos, split in two with tho
rounded surface uppermcst, and being thrown only loosely against one another are dan-
gerous for a European to walk over when wet, being slippery in the extreme. The
interior of the houses I found fairly furnished, and judging from a Land Dyak standard,
I should certainly not consider the Sikongs a poor tribe. The houses stand in a perfect
forest of fruit-trees, some of great age. The formation of the hill I should say was similar
to that of Serambo
;
as you approach the houses, large stones and huge boulders of por-
phyry are met with just as on that mountain. I was told of hot springs not far from the
village, but had no time to visit them. According to the people, Sikong numbers 141
lawangs, divided into 3 tompoks, but Abang Pandak tho Sangouw revenue collector told
me Sikong was formerly taxed or estimated at 180 lawaugs, which did not include tho
poorer families, who might be reckoned at another 40,
bringing up the affyregate to 220
lawangs. He added, that Sikong had paid revenue on two occasions, and this many years
ago, the first payment was only 400 passus ofrice, and the following year this dwindled doAvii
to 200 passus. Like all. the tribes in this district, these Dyaks are physically a weak and
wretched race
;
the women are said to be good looking, but, loose in morals, those I met
with had nothing to distinguish them in personal attractions from other Dj'ak women.
They dress like the women of the other tribes I have described commencing at Triagus,
but seem to prefer wearing more white beads mixed with black in their necklaces, Triugus
showing a strong partiality for red and black. The Sikongs and tribes I have been now
describing, have a custom which they share with the Gumbangs, and only with that tribe
on the western branch of the Sarawak river, in constructing small houses in the jungle,
in which they keep their most cherished valuables. This is done as a precaution against
fire, and I noticed that these houses were only fastened by a rough wooden bolt. The
Sikongs burn their dead of the better class, after . two daj's mourning, and flags-,
banners &c., are placed over the
"
tinungan
"
or place where corpses are burnt or buried
;
those lower in the social scale are buried, the poorer clases again are placed on a covered
stage, while the lowest are rolled in a mat and placed on the ground in the jungle. J.
recollect once meeting a Dyak funeral procession on Serambo. The sexton or
"
peninuch"
carried the corpse (wrapped in what appeared a matj on his back, bearing a flaming bam-
boo torch in his hand, and following him came a number of women clothed in white, with
dishevelled hair shrieking and crying. How far these latter accompany the corpse I can-
not say, but, I am led to understand only to a certain distance from the village, and they
are not present at the last rites, which are performed by the sexton alone. When a
funeral takes place, the village or tompok is
"
paraali," and as it is considered unlucky to
meet the procession, the Dyaks generally confine themselves to their houses while ifc
passes. The body I learn is burnt or buried as soon as possible after death,, and over the
spot of cremation or burial a basket is placed, containing rice and siri-pinang for the ghost
of the deceased. The above remarks apply to the Sarawak Dyaks, the custom may be
otherwise across the frontier, though I imagine there can be but little difference amongst
the various tribes. My attention was called while in the Sikong village, to the fact that
these Dyaks had little or no old jungle suitable for paddy planting, and their farms were
therefore made on scrub and bamboo lan<l, resulting in poor corps. Both Goon and
Sikong were planting on land belonging to theSiPanjang tribe. Some of the Laud
Dyak tribes have more land than they require for their own use, and can therefore afford.
54
to leave their clearings fallow for even eiglit and uiue years. Others Jlre not so fortunate
-and farm the same ground once in five,, six or seven years, 'and Ihave heard of even a less;
interval. This is a^ serious question as regards the Land Dyalis, for it Is impossible
for such a system to last should the population (especially Cliinese population) ever
increase.
I ]nust now return to my reception at Sikong. Shortly after my arrival, Agus (a title)
Annum waited on me, I found this man to be by far the finest Dyal:
K ^"'f s"k
^'^*
^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^^- ^^^ ^^^
Sarawak readers will perhaps be surprised to
hear that this chief is as tall if not taller than Inchi Sawal and nearly
as stout. Annum is a well made man with a decided Chinese cast of countenance. He
wore a Chinese cap with a stiff black silk band, with a red crown. His chin was ornamented
with a tuft, a la Chinois, the eyebrows black, and the haii- of his head which was grey
was cut short. Annum wore a neck-lace of large black and blue beads, very old and highly
valued by the Milanos and Kyans. This Dyak was dressed in a jacket of Saribas
-cloth, wore a bark chawat, and carried on his side a plain tombok. His eyes gleamed
with a cunning leer, and he almost closed them when speaking, the face however was full of
character, and I could well believe the reputation he bears of being a thoroughly
unscrupulous, determined man. The native says that Annum is 70 years of age, he told
me he could recollect the shower of ashes falling from Tomboro when he was a lad. As
this destructive eruption occured in 1815, it follows that if Annum was ten years old at;
that time, he must now be of the age the natives say he is. He is still hearty, hale and
atroug, and capable of holding his own with the other Dyak? mentally and physically.
I was well received by this chief, who expressed regret that owing to the sickness of hi?
wife and children his house was
"
pamali." I explained that I was simply passing from
Tringus bound to Tabiah, but having halted at Si Baddat, I could not do less than visir,
Sikong, this tribe and Sarawak having always been good friendsa statement by the bjfr
which was not correct, as it was at one time contemplated by the Sarawak Government to
burn him out. Annum said I was the first Sarawak European he had met, and promised
me a great feast if I would remain a day or two in the country so that he might collect the
people and make his arrangements, but this was out of the question. When Annum had
had a little arrack to drink he became very loquacious, and retailed his grievances with
much warmth and energy ; they amounted however to what I had heard before, and as usual
were directed more against the Malays than the Dutch ofiicials, though the former appear
to be kept in order when the latter are ])resent. Annum flattered me and Sarawak, but,
notwithstanding all his compliments, I would place little reliance on him or his word,
I consider him a dangerous man, who would be false and treacherous if it suited his pur-
pose. Under the influence of drink he grew quarrelsome and noisy, and on one of hifi
headmen making some remark in the course of the conversation, he struck him severely
across the face with the back of his hand with great violence, while at the same time he
poured out a torrent of abuse. The unfortunate culprit made no reply, but, merely sa-
iaaming, rose, and retired into the back ground. The Dyaks who were present, were evi-
dently afraid of Annum and dared hardly open their lips in his presence. The only it-
dividual who was taken into favour was Murung of Gumbang, yet I noticed that the more
Annum grew under the influence of drink, the less inclined Murung was to contradict hi^
brother chief, upon whom he imposed in the most ludicrous manner by producing his paper
and pencil, and making as he informed the company careful notes ofall that was said. When
I sat down to dinner Annum left the house, and the Orang Kaya of Punduan who dared
not speak and kept well out of the way while his chief was present, now informed me that
though Annum was a bully &c., there were Dyaks at Sikong who Avere not afraid of him.
I raised a laugh by saying tliat at all events he was not one. The Dyaks report Annum
rich in old jars, beads, gongs, &c., which he had inherited from his father, they say he
does not hesitate to use poison, and by this means made away with his two younger bro-
thers, who are not his only victims. Abang Pandak told me that Annum's father was
physii3ally inferior to his son, though his grandfather was fully his equal. Aunam's im-
mediate ancestors were as follows. Agus Katun a Malay of rank went' to Sikong, where
55
lie hail cviiniual iiitci'cuurse with tlie wife of Agus Trepaug a Dj-ak chief: she bore him
two children, Diran and Mangung. Diruti married Agus Pukang, father of Annum, and
ju (Kinsideration of his descent tlie Dutch conferred the title of Radiu Tamangang on
Annum. When Annum returned later in the evening, T asked him whether he paid
revenue to Sangouw, he replied, No, why should he when he got all he wanted from Pang-
kalan Ampat. I told him our Dyaks paid revenue, upon which the Orang Kaya said,
that in Sarawak the Dj'aks knew what they had to pay, which paid, they were not open to
further claims, if Sikoug paid once it would have to pay always, and there would be no
eud to exactions in the shape of Sarah. Would Annum pay to Sarawak? Certainly, he
could not help himself, if his supplies thence were cut off, his tribe would be ruined. An-
num wanted to know what the Rajah would do, if he Annum being under Sariawak,
refused to pay his revenue. I replied would ask for it oncesend for it once, and then
most assuredly burn him out. This answer I learnt rather surprised him, though I Avas
told afl;erwards that Annum had quoted to the Dyaks the cases of Pa Remban on Singhi,.
and Kentap on Sadok as proofs that the Sarawak Government was not to be trifled with..
or deterred from attacking enemies even if they lived on the summits of high mountains.
When Annum bade me good night, which he did in a state of liquor, I asked him point
blank whether he would pay revenue or not, Puuduan did and why not Sikong. The old
savage replied in a hoarse, angry voice,
"
I am Rajah mj''self," and then left the building..
On awaking the next morning, my first move was to find Banggo of Si Panjaug and'
impress on him the necessity of starting at once for the landing-place where I was to meet
the prahu. I now learnt that we should have to descend the Sekyam for some distance on a
bamboo raft, before we reached the pangkalan in question. All my efforts to induce-
Banggo to precede me with a few Sikong Dyaks and construct this raft proved futile. Hi&
assurances and promises were profuse, but, came to nothing, and it ended in our starting
together from the village. Murung of Gumbang,.generally so useful, did nothing, and was
a sad specimen of a Land Dyak suffering under the eff'ects of strong drink and late hours.
Just when we were ready for starting, Annum came to wish me good-bye. This man
tried to induce me to buy two small diamonds, but. telling him I had not come down to this
sort of thing, I recommended him to try the Chinese. It appears that Atinum had procured
these diamonds from the Lara Dyaks, having exchanged for them some human teeth, hair,
a jar, and a fine Kamping sword. The teeth and hair belonged, to the tribe, and were
taken out of a head-house. From the fact of their being part of the
"
fixings
"
on the
skull of a celebrated enemy of former years they were highly valued. The sword was
borrowed and then sold by this honest chief. I had personally an opportunity of witness-
ing how Annum carried on matters. Having expressed a wish to become the possessor of"
a Dyak shield and spear, Annum induced a Dyak to bring me what I wanted. Where this
fool got the things I don't know, but, he produced a short spear and sword, which Annum
at once took charge of, and after some bargaining and wrangling finally sold me. On
jpaying down the money on the mat the Orang Elaya quietly put the coins into his tambok,
entirely ignoring the Dyak who had brought the weapons, and who must have been deli-
berately robbed..
At about 8 a. m., I left the village. Annum at first promising to accompany me dowrr
-the hill, in the capacity of guide. Instead of doing this, he remained behind with Murung:
irhom he had induced to stay and join him in drinking a parting cup. The consequence
was that Murung joined our party the worse for drink. It was no use.being angry, Mu-
rung threw the whole blame on Anflum, who had led him on &c. (fee, and the curious and
fantastic costume which the Gumbang Dyak had chosen to assume made it impossible to
regard him with anything but feelings of intense amusement. Stuck well back on Mu-
rung's head was a wide-awake hat, an old shooting jacket was thrown loosely over his
shoulders, with the sleeves hanging down, while he had managed to stow away his chawat
into a pair of European trousers. Over all this he carried an open umbrella, which was
hoisted everywhere!up-hill and down-hill, through jungle and over swamps, in sunshine
or rain, wherever he went Murung hoisted his umbrella. To resume however, we de-
.scended the mountain by a different path from yesterday, and came on some large boulders
56
of"porphyry, whicli were marked with strange hieroglyphics and rude figures.' The Dyaks,
Tpho accompanied me say they are of great age, and so far as I can understand are mixed
up with the early history of the tribe. I am sorry 1 made no sketches of these figures,
but, want of writing materials at the moment, and my time being extremely limited,
I was tmable to make any tracings. At the base of the mountain we came on the Annap
stream, down which we waded for about an hour, when we emerged on the river Sekyam
here broad but shallow, with its bed strewn with boulders.
"We now constructed two rafts, on the smaller of which the Orang Kaya of Punduau
and three of his friends embarked. The raft which was to carry our
Descend the Sek-
party was larger, but, as it afterwards turned out, was too large for the
.torrafr"^"'
navigation. Six persons and their belongings trusted themselves to thip
crank and ricketty structure. The Orang Kaya of Si Baddat held a
bamboo pole in the bow and Banggo another at the stem, the remainder of the party
sitting or standing in the centre. The two above named Dyaks formed our crew, and well
'
they carried out their duties, more experienced or more skilful pilots never handled the
bamboo poles, and they steered our bundle of sticks down the Sekyam and its rapids in
wonderful style. We had no sooner started than I felt we were over-weighted, and so it
proved. After shooting one of the small rapids with which the Sekyam abounds, we had
-to stop and repair our raft, and this occurred repeatedly. In the meantime we Bank so low
in the stream, that the bamboos were covered several inches with water, and we only saved
our things from being thoroughly wetted by erecting a small platform in the centre on
which we piled our kit. I looked out anxiously for the boat which was to have come up
river to meet us, but, it never appeai'ed, and we learnt afterwards that it had awaited our
.arrival, and finding we did not come, the crew had concluded that we had returned over-
land to Punduau. Descending the river we passed Gunong lilarung, and caught a distant
glimpse of Penrissen with its sc[uare top, and further on we passed the entrance of the
Serui stream. The whole Sekyam river was one series of rapids, one succeeding the other
in quick succession, in fact every tanjong or point had its rapid. These must formerly
have been very steep, but, as already stated, the river, consequent upon the landslip at
Gunong Prang, has filled up considerably.
We were the whole afternoon poling our way down stream, floating over or through the
rapids, having repeatedly to stop and re-arrange and bind together our bamboo craft,
which was at last so shattered and broken, by contact with stones and boulders, that to
this day it is a mystery to me how we managed to cling to it. The skill of these Dyaks
which alone saved us from a complete collapse, was beautiful to witness. The strain on
the muscles of these poor fellows, as now they poled us over a rapid, now pushed us with
their utmost strength from some huge boulder against which the current was forcing us
.apparently to utter destruction, was great in the extreme. With a turn of the bamboo
pole they would send us through a pool of boiling, seething water, past a rock here, over
a stone there, and then balancing the long bamboos across their chests, they would pause
for an instant as the frail, trembling craft, quivering in every joint, glided swiftly over
the rapid into the smooth, fast flowing stream beyond. Night now began to set in with
heavy rain. We were yet some distance from our destination, the rapids were becoming-
higher, and the boulders and rocks which confined the current larger, while the darkness
.and rain made poling more and more difficult and even dangerous. The Orang Kaya of
Si Baddat now took advantage of ft momentary stoppage to ask me whether I would risk
shooting the last four rapids which lay between us and Punduan in the rain and dark, or
halt where we were for the night, and do the best we could in the jungle till day-light.
There was no time for debate or discussion, so turning to the Abang who was behind me
I asked.
"
Shall we halt here for the night or risk the rapids
?"
" It is no use staying-
here tuan," was his reply ;
"
we have neither food, drink, fire, or parangs with us, what
could we do in the jungle on such a night as this ?
"
" Try it, Orang Kaya," I said to the
Dyak, and in another moment away floated the bamboo raft down the waters of the Sek-
yam, now swollen by the heavy rain. From that moment, till we shot the now shattered
.and broken collection of bamboos under the bank of the landing-place at Punduan,
57
not a word was spoken by a .soul on the raft, except as we' shot eacli rapid I would ask the
Dyak in front
"
rheum numero sata
?"
to wiich he would mutter in reply
"
numero satu,
tuau," and so on till we had safely descended thewhole four. Had we upset, I was the
only one of the whole party who could not swim, though I am inclined to think that
swimming would have been of little avail in the broken water, and amongst the rocks
and boulders with which we were surrounded, and which the darkness and rain would
have prevented our discerning or avoiding. We soon made bur way to the village of
Puuduan, Avhioh we reached sulky, dirty, wet, and hungry, our progress being a mere crawl
over a Dyak track, rendered more fatiguing and irksome by the black night which now
entirely enveloped as. We soon had a large fire lighted, and Dyaks despatched to fetch^
our kit which had been left on the river bank under a kajang. I was not long in finding
my pillow, but not until I had noticed how prostrate our two Dyak boatmen were. Susup
of Si Baddat, a supple, wiry, active man, sat up and enjoyed a meal before he went to rest.
Banggo of Si Panjang, a strong, stout, thick-set Dyak covered with korap, had no sooner
entered the village than he said to me
"
Tuan, I am very tired, I am going to sleep," and I
heard that in less than ten. minutes he was sleeping like a dead man.
The river was so swollen next morning that it was impossible for the boat from Si
Panjang to ascend the stream against the current, and I found myself a prisoner for the-
day in this miserable hamlet. I was very tired and low spirited, and at one time my leg
pained me so much that I feared I was about to suffer the torments of untiit. It was-
not till late in the afternoon that the water had sufficiently subsided to permit the Ofang
Kaya of Si Baddat to cross the river to return to his village. I had struck up a great friend-
ship for Susup, who treated me as if I had been his son or brother. He would have-
accompanied me to Si Panjang, but was anxious about his wife, whom he left ill at home.
However he promised to meet me at Goon to wish me good bye, a promise he faithfully
kept. I tried to induce him to visit Sarawak, where I might show him some return for
his kindness to me, but nothing has come of it.
*
The prahu having arrived at the landing-place, I bade Punduan farewell on the morn-
ing of the 18th August, and descended the Sekyam, the river being a series of long,
shallow rapids. We stojiped eventually at Gunong Baju, at the foot of which on the left
bank of the river, is the village of Si Panjang. There is another moun-
The Tillage and
tain further down stream called Badup or Baduk which is also worked
ian'^^

^
""^
^y these Dyaks. Ascending the steepish bank of the river, I entered the
village, which I found stockaded with a fencing of bamboos studded with
ranjows), and the ground covered Avith sudas, so that we had to exercise the greatest care-
in walking about the precincts of the place. All these precautions had been taken against
sm. expected attack by the Sidin Dyaks. I was received on my arrival by the Orang
Kaya, one Taggar, who conducted me to his house, where he wished me to take up his
quarters, but, I preferred a pangga. I found the village Avell situated, perhaps cleaner-
than most Land Dyak villages, and having the advantage of a good bathing-place on the-
Sekyam river. Si Panjang has paid revenue bu 14 lawangs to Sangou\v for the last six
years, being rated at four Sarawak passus per family. Fruit-trees seem abundant here,
and the people appear well off, though there are many korap-covered Dyaks' about
the village, both the Orang Kaya and his brother are covered with korap from head to
foot, and throughout the district I saw a good deal of goitre. The women here wore brass
wire over and mixed with their rotan rambis. I believe this is the custom among the-
* In August 1875, Susup, Oraug Kaya of Si Baddat, seut a party of 12 of his Dyjiks to wait ou
me at Tegora, praying my aid and assistauce in the shape of a supplj' of gunpowder to enable Iiim to
resist the Si Panjangs, with whom his tribe had gone to war. I was sorry to refuse these Dyaks theii-
request, but gave them some arruck and tobacco. 1 1 heard that the result of this petty war ended in
both Si Baddat and Si Panjang each losing a head, when a peace was patched up. It was also said
tliat Banggo was killed, but this I think is incorrect. In October 1876, The Orang Kaya of Si Baddat
himself came to Tegora to i-eturu mj" visit. I had loft the Sarawak service when this chief came to my
xoi-mer station, but ho was receired l>j Mr. Everett (j the Borneo Go, who had also made his acquaint-
ance in his native village. Mr. Everett tried to induce Susup to pi-ocead to Kuching to see the
Government Officials, but, the chief obstinately refused saying he had come to see Mi-. Everett and my-
self, whom he knew, and was not going to run after strangers.
58
women in all the 'tribes -in these partsi' The Si Panjaugs wear oliamBibf-rblaQkanidarai
beads (I saw a few of blue colom;) round the neck like the Gumbangand Tringgus wonieh,
differing herein from the Sikongs and Si Baddats who affect black and -white beads. The
bilian or female
' doctors or prophetesses wear a strange cover to the burang or bead head
covering. It is of wood, circular, made to fit the top of the burang, and prettily orna-
mented (inlaid^ with tin. A short stick covered with the feathers of the enchalang or
horn-bill is stuck in the centre and gives the whole a very curious effect. I have seen
this covering to the head-piece in no other tribe. The Orang Kaya had the same story
to tell me of the Malays and the Sarah. He was blessed with two wives, and got on verj-
well with them both ; he amused me by speaking of the freshet in the Sekyam river as
*'
ayer passang." With reference to the Government under which he served, this Orang
Kaya was not opposed to Dutch rule, on the contrary he complained that he had not
enough of it. According to him the great &ult of the Diitch system in -these districts was,
that the Government officer was not stationed among them. Another grievance was that
the officer (controUeur), who had these Dyaks in hand -was constantly being changed.
Hence it arose that they were nearly always under a stranger, and it was repeatedly urged
on me by the Orang Kaya, that were a Dutch official petmanently stationed at Bali
Karangan, who had spent some time amongst the Dyaks and knew their manners and
customs, he himself would become responsible for his tribe, and many -others in the neigh-
bourhood. The Dutch rule was fair and straightforward compared to the oppression of
the Malays, and if the Malays were not checked the Dyaks would probably resist them.
"With a Dutch officer at Bali Karangan, and the Malays restrained, the country would be
at peace, as it was some of the tribes are still on the war-path, and part of the work cut
out for the controlleur when he again visits the district was to fix the fines between the
Si Puttongs and Tawaugs, the former having lost 2 and the latter 10 heads. According
to the Orang Kaya, last year had he not interfered the Goon Dyaks would have killed
Abang Pandak; guns were pointed, and swords drawn, when his influence prevailed, and
the Dyak wrath was sobered down. It must be clearly understood that all the remarks
made by me on the position of the Dyaks under Dutch rule, are from Dyak sources, and
must therefore be taken cjuantum valeat, there may probably be another aide to the
2)icture.
The village of Surob, oi' 12 iawaugs, paying 2 passus per family annually as revenue, ie
situated a short distance further down the Sekyam river, and the tribe is
The Tillage of
an offshoot from Si Panjaug. Both these tribes say the Dyaks ages ago
file W Pa^ang^aBcl
""^^^ settled in Sarawak territory, and their settlement was at Ledah
Satoh Dyaks. Tannah. Tliey left Sarawak owing to the oppression of the Malays, who
were jealous of their skill as workers of iron (to this day the Si Panjaugs
maintain their ancient fame and their swords are much sought after throughout the dis-
trict), and finally drove them out of the country. AVhen the Si Panjaugs left Ledah Tannah,
they retired to Staat, thence to Sentah Simbo, and when they again moved it was to Batu
Garum, near Sempro. Prahu Boya near Pangkalan Ampat, was their next settlement, which
they exchanged for Simmu between Sennah and Tabiah, from whence they moved to their
present site. These Dyaks appear to have no idea how long it is since they migrated from
Ledah Tannah. Acccording to them it was some ten years after they ceased to belong to
Sarawak, that Sangouw claimed them, and they were ordered to pay revenue.
At this village i made the acquaintance of Abang Pandak, the Sangouw revenue
collector. This Malay lived formerly in Sarawak, and is married to a daughter of Abang
Hassan of Finding. I found him a respectable kind of man, and he called on me when he
visited Kuching. I learnt a good deal about the Dyaks from this chief, who had a poor
opinion of them. Annum of Sikong he said was taking advantage of the good nature of the
Government ; when the Abang demanded revenue he was met with excuses and subterfuges,
at the same time the Orang Kaya sent a different story to Sangouw, and it thus became
A farce. For his own part he was sick of the work, and wished to resign, but, the Sultan
had persuaded him to continue his duties. He complained bitterly of the Dyaks, who had
Hometimes threatened to kill him, but, he had told them it was no use making away with
59
him, as lie was not collecting his own revenue, and if they felt themselves aggrieved it was
to the Sultan they must look, as he was only doing his duty. I understood the Abang to
lay that all the tribes pay revenue except Tawang, Tikum and Si Puttong, though from
other som'ces I learrit that Si Puttong pays to Sambas, and Tikum is said to be a tribe of
12 and Tawang of 100 lawangs, the former pays revenue on the above number, while the
latter only on 80 lawangs, perhaps the Abang meant that these tribes did not pay to
Sangouw, but, to Sambas. It is not easy to arrive at a proper estimate of the number of
lawangs, or amount of revenue paid by the tribes in these districts, the whole matter appear-
ing to be in great confusion.
I attended a feast given in my honour by the Orang Kaya, the proceedings com-
menced in the afternoon, and were carried on far into the night. On approaching the house
I was amused to see a coloured handkerchief having printed on it, the Standard Royal of
England, flying as banner on a long pole. I was informed that this was a present from
Sir James Brooke, and was preserved by the tribe vvith the greatest care. The proceedings
at this Dyak feast were carried on as usual, my feet were brushed with a fowl by an old
man, who, as well as the Orang Kaya, wished me luck &c., according to the general Dyak
fashiou. The fowl was then killed and some blood smeared over my feet, as well as those
of the principal people, to whom the same good luck was wished.
The tanju or tanyu (platform in front of the house), was now cleared and dancing
began, in which men, women and children joined. The dancing here was different from
that at Jagui, where the men wore a loose sarong round the waist, Malay fashion. Here
the men wore a sort of crinoline, or as I might perhaps call it, a rotan frame round the
waist, coming down to the ancles over which was suspended a sarong, and small hawk-bells
were fastened to the wrists and uncles of the performers. The women danced round the
men, who occupied the centre of the platform, the dancing of the former consisting in ex-
tending both arms, turning the toes out and in, and thus travelling round the stage. Tlie
Dyak men were more ambitious, and threw themselves into contortions, bending the body
from side to side, and backwards and forwards, while from to time a new performer, joining
the throng, proclaimed his advent by a loud, howling shout. The moon had now risen, and
was lighting with her pale and silvery beams, as wild and weird a scene as it was ever my
fortune to witness.
"
Torches had been stuck up here and there about the stage, and their
flickering rays flashing over the dancers gave a supernatural colouring to the whole per-
formance. The gaudy dresses of the Dyak women and children, with their short blue pet-
ticoats bordered with white, red, or black, their white shell bracelets, their brass rings on
arms and legs, the masses of coloured beads round their necks, and their fantastic head
dresses, all looked wonderfully striking and picturesque, as ever and anon, the rays from
the blazing wood struck and illuminated the persons of the wearers, as they moved in slow
but graceful measure round the male performers in their centre. The Dyak men dancing
in their rich and gay coloured sarongs and jackets, bending and twisting their bodies now
forwards, now backwards, keeping time to the music of the gongs, and occasionally giving
utterance to an almost diabolical yell, added not a little to the effect all this created. The
scene was heightened by the dense dark background of foliage of surrounding fruit-trees
and palms, through which streamed the clear soft gleams of moonlight, contending with
the fiery crimson flashes from the burning torches,. in lighting up this extraordinary spec-
tacle in its brightest and most vivid colours. Now and then some of the women and chil-
dren, tired of dancing, would pause to rest at the corners of the verandah, where they
would sing a quaint Dyak song, blending their choruses with the loud crashing of the
gongs, the firing of guns and crackers, the shouts of the men who were drinking in the
verandahs of the house, and the applause of the specitators. I was sometimes confused
and bewildered, although perfectly delighted, as reclining on my mat in front of the
Orang Eaya'a house, I gazed on all this, and it was very late before I wished the chief
good night to retire to my pillow in the head-house. The feast however was kept up till
tar into the small hours, and seemed to have been a perfect, success to all concerned.
The morning of the 19th August saw me starting for the village of Goon, my depar-
ture having been delayed by the Orang Kaya, who in consulting the birds of omen heard
60
:i bird chirp on tbe wrxn<: side of us, unci we had tb wait till mutters 'proved more 'pro-
})itioiis. We poled up the Sekyum in a sampan till we entered a stream which 'fell into
?
the main river on the left bank, ciiHed the Po, which rises in Si Bnjn. Ascending the Po
for a short distance, we abandoned onr sampan and waded up stream till we reached the
foot of Si Bflju, which we c\imbed to its summit, and then descended to its base, on the
northern side. I find it )io easj' task to describe mj' departure and tramp from one
J^jak village to another, nor do incidents sufficient occur on tlie march to enliven the
description. The story is ever the same, a series of struggles all day -over a bad
road, through swamps, up and down hills, and across batan<js and bamboo bridges, leads
the traveller from one dirty village in tbe morning, to an equally dirty collection of huts
in the evening. The road from tbe base of Si Baju to Goon whs no exception to the
above rule, it had long been abandoned, Was overgrown, the batangs and bamboos of the
bridges were all more or less rotten, and we had to exercise the greatest cimtion in
crossing them, which we did one by one, not daring to trust the side-rails for support.
The whole march Avas a series of pit-falis and traps, eminently calculated to shake the
nerves of a stronger and more determined traveller than myself. We were aided in
our struggles over this road by some Goon Dyaks, wlio hud come to meet me and act as
guides to their A'illage. We now come to tbe Segittim river, and continued our course
along its bank over the same kind of trackj and occasionally crossing the stream by
cranky bamboo bridges, one of which was of remarkable length, we at length arrived at
Jumag, a temporary village of Ihe Goons, consisting of 6 lawangs situated between the
bases of Gunongs Tawi and Kedd6, the Orang Kaya being Tamangang jalap assisted by
a Pengara. The Segittim river rises in the Sepit mountain, runs round Tawi and beiiind
Si Baju and falls into the Sekyam below Suroh. Sepit, Si Buju aud Penrissen form the
water-shed between the Sarawak river, and the Segittim and Sekyam river.s
Leaving Jumag we continued our way along the left bank of the Segittim, and after
perhaps four hours steady travelling from Si Panjang we reached the
The village of
viUjige of Goon Getta, situated on a small hill called Suwoh on the left
tlieGoou Dvaks!"
bank of the Segittim. Goon Getta is a village of 12 lawangs under Orang
Kaya Rajah Macco. There is one head-house, in a most filthy and dis-
gracefullj' dilapidated condition, so" much so that it was hardly safe to enter it. There were
but two heads in this building, the village being a new one. The people here were poor,
miserable, sickly and diseased, and the village itself in a most .wretched state of ruin
and decay. I had flattered myself with the hope that my wanderings amongst the Land
D3'aks had inured me to strange sights of disease and suffering, but the appearance of
the Orang Kaya of this village vas too much for me. Covered from bead to foot with
korap in its worst form, his whole countenance a mass of srtiall open running sores
jiroduced by small-pox, and his neck swollen to a hideous size by goitre, this man )>re-
sented the appearance of a veritable messenger of evil, and after shaking him by the hand
and paying him the usual I>yak compliments, I retreated to the privacy of the pangga.
The Goon tribe have another palaman called Neubuud at the base of Gunong Tawi,
which I did not visit, this hamlet is small, boastinc only 5 lawangs but under no Orang
Kaya. Goon Tambaw-ang on Gunong Tuboi or Si Boi is another village of 15 lawangs, 2
torapoks, and one head-house said to be full of skulls. This latter village may be
looked on as the head quarters of the Goon tribe, and I much regret not having had
time to visit it. According to the figures above quoted. Goon would aggregate 38 lawangs,
but, I am told thej- pay revenue on 45 lawangs, so that I am afraid my figures are not
quite correct. Goon has paid revenue for the last 8 years to Sangouw, 2 Sarawak passus
annually per family.
We bad some show of feasting on a small scale, with gong beating aud dancing till a
late Lour, I was told by tbe bead men here that the Si Puttonga, Tikum, Tawang and
Tingone Dyaks differ greatly in their language from the other^nd Dyak tribes.
61
I add here a list of some >l' the_Jni(.l Dyak ti'ibi:'s, with ilio names of the mouutains
they inhabit.
The Sikon} Dyiiks inhabit Guuonj; SinJHii^

CHAPTER VI.
Acrosb ihe boHndary line to Sarawak territory- Tne village and Dyake of Tabiah. The village
and Dyake of Sumban. Source of the Sutnban river. ThevillageandDyaks of SiBungo. Ascend the
Sarawak river. Source of the Sarawak river. Pangkalau A.mpat. The village and Dyake of Sennah.

Origin of the Sennah tribe of Land Dyaks. Curious Legend of the Seniiah Dyaks,
Notwithstanding my leg being veiy stiff and painful and the D3'ak6 using every
means to induce me to stay over another day in their village, I left Goon in the morning
of the 20th August, my departure being again delayed by the farce of having to wait for
a favourable bird. "We descended to the Segittim followed its left bank, crossed to the right,
and then for an hour or so continued wading up stream, repeatedly crossing backwards and
forwards till we came to the foot of Gunong Sepit. The ascent of this mountain was fear-
fully fatiguing and my leg suffered so much that I was almost dead lame. Descending
tlie mountain down its northward slope we came on the river Barung which rises in Sepit
and falls into the Sarawak below Pangkalan Ampat.
As the watershed seems to form the boundary, the line between Sarawak and Sangouw
Across the bouu-
in this direction must be over Sepit. The Dutch author Veth says that
dary line back to to the north Sangouw borders Sarawak and Sadong, and while the line of
the Sarawak ter-
separation with the former is over the Panarissei,
(?
Penrissen), Serimoet,
"*'T-
Samarong (?
Si Marung) and Koeroem mountains, with the latter it is
over Gunong Rewoeau. This last mountain is situated in a westwardly line with the
Senjang (?
Sinjaug) and the Bentoeang hills, which last just as more northwards the
Soenjan
(''
Sinjaug) are on the borders of Sangouw and Landak." I much fear that the
Dutch author has hei'e confused the Senjang and Soonjang hills, as he calls them with.
Gunong Sinjang.
^Ve coiitinued our march along the course of the Barung over a Dyak track, and
then slowly commenced the ascent of Gunong Munnung some 2,501 feet in lieight, on
which ir; built the village of Tabiah, according to the Dyaks Tebia or Pidia. T consider
we wei'e some four hours travelling hither from Goon and I was now again amongst
Sarawak people.
Tabiah i;~ a village of 2 tompoks Kekas and Kedding. I stayed in the former. The
tribe is under Orang Kaya Sinnen.
The village and
I' paid revenue in 1873 on 50 lawaugs which at
|3
=!^loO.
Dyaks of Tabiah.
The Tabiahs were formerh'^ a great fighting ti'ibe, and possess a fine
collection of heads of enemies.
Among these was the skull of the father or grandfather of Murungof Gumbang. From its
inaccessible position on Gunong Munnung, Tabiah was never taken, in former times there
was no path up the mountain. The village is in a very dilapidated state, the Dyaks are
poor, and their condition low, the houses are many of them in ruins. The women I am
told are many of them barren, and judging from their personal appearance it does not
surprise me, I was disappointed with Tabiah which I had been led to expect was a flour-
ishing settlement, whereas I found it quite the contrary. I spent the day in the Orang
Kaya's house which was neither clean or comfortable, the chief pangga with 30 skulls
was a ruin and quite uninhabitable. Later in the day I found a small head-house, which
being new was clean, and here I took up my quarters for the night. At Tabiah I met the
Government revenue officer Gendoet a newly fledged Haji from M-ecca who has the Dyaks
of this district under iiis charge. The inflamed state of my leg and the over-bearing
manners of this Malay towards the Dyaks, disinclined me from collecting information, and
hence to Staang where I parted from this Malay, I interested myself very little with the
63
people amongst whom I might happen to be. Th Tabiah Dyaks burn all their dead,,
they eat deer's flesh and keep domestic bees. The Goons and the Tabiahs follow the-
Sikongs and other tribes in that district in having small houses in the jungle for preserv-
ing their valuables. There was a feast at night at the Orang Kaya'a, some drinking took
place, and the noise and excitement was very great and kept up till a late hour. The
yells and howls of these Dyaks were at times dreadful, and they bored me a good deal
with their good uatured attentions, more so in fact than any tribe I had been with.
I found myaelf next morning ascending Guuong Munuung on my journey to Sumbau.
The road which was good, but excessively steep. led to tlie summit over bamboo bridges,,
and batangs, bamboos &c., laid laterally along the sides of the mountain. On descending
the mountain towards its north-western slope we had many difficulties to contend with in
the nature of the country. We came to the Sumban stream and then to the foot of
Gunong Seraung, or to what appeared a spur of this mountain, but, called Puggi by the
Dyaks. Here the Tabiahs had farming lands, while further to my right the Sumbans
were farming on Seraung. We now came to an undulated valley between Seraung and
Munnung. After this our road for an hour or two lay across Dyak fellings through whicli
my followers had to cut a path, and we again came on the Sumban stream. The rest of
the journey was through Dyaks fellings and an hour of this work brought me to the
village of.Sumban. At this stage I suffered greatly with pain in my leg, and I was per-
haps four or five hours in accomplishing what might have otherwise have taken three
Lours to get over. We enjoyed a fine view of the southern slope of Si Bungo en route.
Sumban or Bimban is a village of 40 lawangs paying as revenue in 1873 at $3. $120.
It is under Orang Kaya Mangko Bumi Jigga and one PeugaraSijouw.
TheTillag|aiid
jj; jg erected on a spur of Gunong Seroung called Suajan, boasts one
jj^^"
^^^'
torn pok and two head houses with 9 skulls. There was formerly another
pf these buildings but it was burntdown two years ago.
Tlie village has never been visited by a Government officer since Mr. Grant was
here 16 years ago. The condition of these Dyaks is very satisfactory, they seem contented
and happy. The rice crop had been good, paddi I was told was planted in fair quantity,
as well as Krebangs, &c., for their own use, but, no sago and I found domestic bees kept
in hives under the houses. Cocoa-nut trees were scarce, but, this palm of a small kind
called redang by the Malays appeared pretty abundant as well as the usual fruit trees.
The houses are clean and well kept, and are built under one roof with a broad platform
or tanju in front. I heard here however, the same complaint as at Tabiah viz: that
many of the women were barren.
The next morning I was on my way to Si Bungo. Just after leaving the village the
track led us parallel with the southern face of the range of the same name, which we
kept in view nearly all day. We traversed a series of small hillsPanyang, Ungung,
Kombi, Ton Ac, till we came to the Sumban river, with a small but broad waterfall called
Ton, with a deep pool and pebbly bed at its foot, altogether a very pretty spot, which
might perhaps be called grand in the north-east monsoon, when the fall would be awoUen
by the rains.
The Dyaks tell me the Sumban has three Sources, the Mar which rises in Si Bungo^
the Puan which also rises in the same mountain and the Ton which has
Sumbirri"^
'^^
^^^ source in Kombi. The Sumban falls into the Sarawak river below
Pangkalan Ampat above Si Bungo.
We now crossed the Sumban river, the road being wonderfully good, the soil dry
aud firm, of sand-stone formation. We crossed and waded up two or tliree small streams^
till we again came to the Sumban, along the right bank of which lay our path. Crossing
the river near a spot where it is joined by the Mar, our march continued over an undulat-
ing line of country, through low jungle, emerging from which we came to a place called
Jannam by the Dyaks. Here it becama necessary to cross the Sumban again, now
64
"widened into a shallow, broad stream. Tlie crossing way eft'ectod over a series of rocks
and boulders which strewed its bed, these were from 18 to 20 feet in height between which
the water seetliing and boiling rushed with great velocity. We crept over this place by
means of poles and bamboos thrown from stone to stone, in some measure like bridges,
but, very frail and uncertain, being only hastilj' constructed. Continuing our march on
the ri^ht bank I found we were simply travelling along a smooth slope of solid stone, the
Toad being merely narrow batangs and thin bamboos placed laterally against the rocky
face, loosely fastened together, and exceedingly springy and elastic. We secured ourselves
rafi we best could by holding on to roots of trees, shrubs &.C., but, the whole of this part of
the journey involved a great deal of climbing, clambering, wading and crawling, which ia
more than one place taxed my powers to the utmost. The path following the Sumbau
river, was traced along the face of small hills, sloped down to the water in some places ia
a sheer descent of 30 or 40 feet to the turbid stream below, which being full of large
boulders, would probably have caused the death of any one who might have the misfor-
tune to fall among them from above. Occasionally the path would be round the projecting
point of some rock and we found ourselves standing over the river with a perpendicular
fall of 20 or 30 feet below tis. In this way we continued our progress, following the
-course of the Sumban, and having once more crossed the boulders which encumber the
river bed, and make this stream impassable for boats or even sampans we arrived at
Pangkalan Ruppi, just after skirting the base of Gunong Tumbang or Panggo. The road
traversed must be dangerous in the extreme in the north-east monsoon, in fact nothing
would induce me to attempt it. Pangkalan E,uppi on the right bank of the river is the
landing-place of the Sumban Dj'aks, and at this point the stream is deep and free from
obstructions. Here we entered a prau and dropping down stream found ourselves after
a few minutes poling in the Sarawak river, descending which for a short distance, we
brought up on the right bank at the Dyak village of Si Bungo. I may conclude by
saying that the Malays according to Dyak report have never worked the Sumban river for
diamonds, though I cannot learn why they should not be met with there as readily as they
appear to be found in other streams in the immediate vicinity.
The village of the Si Bungo or Bunguch Dyaks is built on both banks of the Sarawak
river, the majority of the houses being on the right bank, on a heck of
The village and
jg^^j caused by the junction at this point of a small stream the Modang
ya BO I
1
un-
^^^^.j^ ^j,^^ main river! The houses of these Dyaks are clean, with broad
verandahs in good order, and there ii^ an air of pros|.>erity about the place
which augurs well for the future. The dwellings are constructed similar to those of Sum-
ban a long roof covering a number of houses. The men are well clothed many wearing-
Chinese trousers and bajus, but, as regards their skin and faces as dirty and ugly as any
other Dyaks I had visited. The dress of the women is like that in the other Dyak tribes,
the bead iiead dress is not so commonly worn as with some of' the other tribes, certainly
not so often as with the Tringgus. Si Bungo is a village of 53 lawaugs, and four Tompoks,
Tanjong, Rumbak, Riden and across the river Budji. The Orang Kaya is Steer Rajah
Gisay and under him a Pengara Pattip. There are three head-houses with 8 skulls. Paying
on 58 lawangs the revenue of the Si Bungo tribe as they furnish no bird's nests amounted
in 1873 at $3 per lawang to ...$159.
Having settled myself in the pangga at Tanjong, I was visited by the Orang Kaya,
but, not until 1 had repeatedly enquired and sent for him. The Si Bungo Dyaks are
notorious for their indifference to the wants of travellers, and for the little ho8))itality they
extend to any one. On a previous occasion when passing up river, I halted at this village
for supplies, but, although accompanied by S Government peons, I could procure nothing
the villagers refusing to part with either fowls or rice. Not being able to find the Orang-
Kaya and being pressed for time, I told the peons to seize fowls and rice <fec., which soon
bi ought the owners to a bargain, and I believe this arbitrary act did a little temporary good.
The employes of the Borneo Company, who have occasionally prospected the district for
minerals have more than once reported to me the want of assitauce they have always
-experienced at Si Bungo either in men or supplies although liberal terms were offered.
65
My predecessor at Paku had the same oomplaiut agaiust tiiese Dyaks. Ad the up
river tribes are seldom visited by a European Government official they are not
so attentive to the wants of travellers as they might be, and as they are rarely
called upon, and then fairly paid they might be taught that it is for their own
interest to be civil and obliging, this applies particularly to the Si Bungos. From
the Orang Kaya I learnt that the rice crop this year had been good, but gene-
rally speaking the Si Huugos are badly ofl' in this respect, as they do not pay proper
attention to their pnddy cultivation, nor are they are so industrious as they might
be. They plant the usual Dyak yegetables, and a good deal of Siri, besides a Cew sago
palms with fruit trees in abundance, while bees are domesticated about their dwellings.
These Dyalcs are good boat-builders and their praus and sarapans are much sought after
and command high prices. There is a Chinese in the village who has settled here some
eight years, and who, married to a Dyak girl carries on a petty trade with the-
natives. A feast was given at night, but to mark my annoyance at the want of hospitality
.shown me, as well as being tired and foot-sore, I made but a short stay at the Orang
Kaya's house where it was held.
Next morning found us poling our way up the Sarawak river in small sampans, being
compelled from the shallowness of the water at this season of the year to
Ascend the Sa-
make use of the smallest of boats. We soon passed the mouth of the
Sumban, and the Randa and Panggu hills all on our rii.'ht, then opening
Gunong Kowan which we passed close on our left came to the Dnban hill, which we kept
in sight for some lime, till the river Avinding and turning brought us clc^se to its base.
Leaving Duban on our left we caught a view of Gunong Sikus on our right, and then came
to Sunijei Muranir on our left. At the mouth of this stream is the landing-place of the
Braug Dyaljs. We now saw Gunonj* Angau and passed on our left another small stream
called the Nibong. Another half hour's polinji brought us to Rheum Ledong, many
accidents occur at this rapid every year with native boats, and lives have frequently been
lost in ascending and descending it.
Just above Rheum Ledong is Pangkalan xlnipat at the junction of the Tabiah and
Sennah streams, Avhich uniting forms the commencement of the Sarawak
Source of the
riygr^ The Sennah river which flows from the southward has three
"
^ ^^ ^'
sources, the Sicundun which rises in Serin, the Sodos in Gunong Sodos,
and the Penrissen in Gunong Penrissen. The Tabiah river joins from the westward and
has two sources, the Barung which rises in Gunong Sepit and the Pi-in which rises in
Gunong Penrissen.
I now found myself at Pangkalan Ampat, which place as I have already stated is
the trading station for the Dyaks in these parts as far as the Sekyam
Pangkalan Am-
district in Sangouw to the southward and the head of the Sadong river
^*
'
to the eastward. Pangkalan Ampat called thus from the four tribes by
whom I believe it was originally established, viz., Sikong, Si Baddat, Goon, and >i Panjang^
is still visited by these tribes, as well as the Suroh, Sennah, Tabiah, Si Puttoug, Tawang,.
Tikum and Tinyone Dyaks. There are eight Chinese dealers established here, who, I am
told not only drive a brisk trade in iron, cloth, tobacco, &c.. with the Dyaka for jungle
produce, &c., but, also smuggle a good deal of opium hence across the frontier into Sangouw
territory, the principal agent in this latter business being one Kim Pony. The
settlement is very prettily situated on the left bank of the stream, and might per-
haps be made more important than it is, if a little more attention were paid to
its interests. It was from here that I started in 1870 to walk from the headwaters
of the Sarawak river to those of the Sadong, following the line of march taken by Wallace
the travellesr who gives a very interesting account of this trip;
*
my own account will be
found in the appendix to this chapter. Pangkalan Ampat is about 2 hours poling in a
small sampan from Si Bungo, while Si Bungo itself is some 5 hours poling from Sentah

The Malay Archipelago Vol. I. Pages 111

-!<".
66
SimLo, the distance to Ledah Tannah from Panlcalau Ampat may be talien at 60 miles,,
while Ledah Tannah being about 13 miles from Kuching it follows, that the settlement
I am describing is some 73 miles from the capital. Tringgus across country is perhaps
16 miles from Pangkalan Ampat, but, there is not even a Dyak track between the two
places. The Malay Pembakal here told me that he has walked from Pangkultn Ampat
to Sennah thence to Sodos Tambawang, and down the Sodos mountain to S' Impio on the
Sekyam river in one day. I quote these distances to show what a central position Pang-
kalan Ampat enjoys for the Dyaks in these districts, but for the Land Dyaks in the
siffgregate in the Residency of Sarawak, no position can be superior to Ledah Tannah. I
took up my quarters while at Pangkalan Ampat in the house of the Pembakal who is in
charge here. The building was almost a ruin, the roof in holes, and the knjangs out at the
sides. As regards cleanliness Haji Jirajak's house contrasted very unfavorably with many
DyaTi houses in which it had been my fortune to stay, it was extremely dirty, and the pre-
mises in general were very ill kept.
Next morning I poled my course up the Sennah stream to the village and Dyaks of
the same name. No small sampan being procurable it must have been three or four hours
before I reached the village, the situation of which on both banks of the river with the
backs of the houses facing the water is very pretty. The Orang Kaya and people being
aware of my intention of visiting them, had made extensive arrange-
ihe village and
ments for my arrival and I found the whole place ornamented with
plaintam leaves, and branches oi trees and every thing prepared tor a
great feast at night. I went straight to the head-hoi'se on the left bank where I wa-s
visited by the Orang Kaya and chiefs, who expressed themselves delighted at seeing
me, and went so far as to say that they wished they could see more of the white men in
their district. ] n point of physique the Sennah tribe is vastly superior to any of the
Dyaks I had visited. The men possess more stamina, are well built, healthy and strong,
more clothed than the generality of their countrymen, while in manners and address they
are open and independent, being devoid of the shyness and timidity which characterizes
this people. Some of the women were really good-looking, with clean healthy skins and
cheerful smiling faces. The Sennah tribe is in a most prosperous condition, (though it
suffered severely during the cholera visitation in 1857) being well off in tawaks-tawaks,
chauangs, jars &c., and boasting a 5})lended peal of gongs. N^egetables are freely planted
and a good deal of sago grown. Beehives are also kept under the houses, but, the pddy
crop I was informed had not been good. I find nothing particular to note in the dress or
customs of this tribe. The dead are burned and the women wear a black rambi and some
that of a brown colour. Formerly a rambi of cane stained yellow was in fashion, but, this
is discontinued, while the red is not much in favour. The houses are similar to those of
Si Bungo and Sumban, but larger and constructed of wooden planks with a broad well
kept taiiju in front. The Sennahs build no boats and are useless as boatmen. The tribe
is under Orang Kaya Barei a young men who has held his present position about 2 years.
Tinder him is Peiigara named B^so. I am afraid the Orang Kaya's influence with his
people is limited, as I was told by the Malay Pembakal that many disputes and becliaras,
were brought to him to adjudicate. This is far from satisfactory, as it leaves the control
of the tribe too much in the hands of a Malay. The tribe is divided into three tompoks
Sodos, Sungan, and Sennah, and paid revenue in 1878 on 114 lawangs which at $3=$342
and no bird's neste are worked.
A great feast was given in ray honour. On my arrival a pig had been killed, and
when I joined the festive gathering at night, an old man approached me with some of its
blood in a cup. He then made me a speech the purport 'of which I was informed meant
good luck, happiness and prosperity to me and my followers. I was then asked to take
a piece of bamboo, dip it in the cup covering it with blood, and with the bamboo in hand
wishing the tribe the same compliment. This I did and 1 had then to throw the stick as
far as I could into the jungle. The distance thrown by me with the bamboo, appeared to
give general satisfaction, and we then settled down to the business of the eveninj,'. The
feast differed little if at all from other Dyak feasts, but, here only as at Si Panjang did the
67
wonieu dance, and it was only at this village that the sword dauce was introduced which
was but ail imitation of that of the Malays. There was the us^al amount of drinking, but
no excess ;
being tired and foot sore I did not stay late, mirth, music, and noise were
carried on till nearly daylight.
I spent the whole of next day in this village and collected the following information
regarding the origin of this people. The Seuualis were ori<rinally settled
Ongm of the
^t Sikong and they left that country under a leader or chief called Trau.
LaS^Dvaks^

'^^^^
^^^ from Sikong having committed the crime of matricide, the par-
ticulars of which are too indecent to mention, suffice to say that after
cutting down his mother with a parang, he laid open her stomach and found it full of the
seeds of every description of fruits. Collecting thes^ Trau fled toward Sambas with his
followers, whence taking prau he arrived at the mouth of the Sarawak river (Sungei Buah).
Hence he continned his ascent of the river, and settled at Batu Kara, near Mungo Angus
Just
above Sungei Siol. Here Trau planted the seeds found in his mother's belly, and
the old groves of iruit-trees which are even now in existence on the spot bear witness say the
Dyaks to the truth of this story. The next place where the Sennahs settled was at Batu
Sawa near Si Gobang, they then ascended the southern branch of the Sarawak river to a
place called Lubuk Tinuwan, on the left bank below Sempro. Trail again moved his
followers up stream, and finding the water too shallow for his praus, abandoned them at a
place called Batu Jung, about two reaches above the present landing-place of the Brang
tribe, and just above this is a stone called Batu Kamudi. Both these names say the
Sennah Dyakswere origin ally given to their places by Trau, the former being the place where
his praus proved useless, and the latter being given to the rudder of Trau's prau which re-
mained so long in existence here, that it finally turned into stone. Having no\s no prau,
Trau and his followers walked overland to Muara Kunduug a small stream between Muara
Sennah and Sennah, where they remained sometime, moving from thence to their present
location.
I cannot close my account of this tribe of Dyaks, without relating a very curious story
connected with a member of this tribe. One Manging a Sennah Dyak
j*^^"!^^
-^^S*
in ages })ast went to Java as a passenger in the prau of a friend. On his
^h DyakB
^^'
^rrival ^^ the country of Rajah Pyte of Solo it was rumoured about that
Manging was a rich man and very, clever. On hearing this the Rajah
sent for Manging and giving him a thick rotan cane, perfectly smooth, and evenly cut and
finished at both ends, asked him if he could lell at which end had grown the boughs aud at
which the roots. Taking the cane Manging measured it exactly in half, and balancing it
precisely in the middle, pointed out to the Rajah that one half was heavier than the other,
and this he said was the end which had been the lower part and consequently where the
roots had grown. The Rajah was much pleased at this decision, and tried Manginy once
more with some eggs. Manging was to say which egg would produce a cock and which a
hen chicken at hatching. The Dyaks say that Manging weighed the eggs, be this as it
may, Manginji fixed upon two eggs and telling the Rajah to mark them as he indicated,
put them under a hen. On these eggs being hatched it was found that Manging had
indicated correctly, for each egg produced what he had said it would. This last result
satisfied the<iajah and impressed him so highly with Hanging's talent and shrewdness,
that he bestowed on him his daughter in marriage, and on the Rajah's death Manging
himself succeeded to the sovereignity. When Manging quitted his native country, he left
behind him a wife and child, and when the child whose name was Jawi had reached
man's estate, he asked his mother where was his father. The mother replied that his father
had left Sennah for Java and never returned. " If this be so
"
said Jawi
"
I must go and
seek him
"
and he at once proceeded to Java, to commence the search for his missing father.
On arriving at Solo, he enquired whether Manging of Sarawak was known there, and
then learnt that Manging was married to the daughter of Rajah Pyte. He now proceeded dis-
guised as a poor man to his father's bouse, and succeeded in entering so far on the premises
as to meet his father's wife, who not knowing who lie was asked how he dared to enter a
great man's house in such a guise. She was in a violent passion, and before he could
68
explain, abased him souiidly, and by aid of the servauts attacked him with sticks and
cudgels, beating and wounding him so severely that he ran away, returning however he
cooked his frugal
meal of ferns and leaves directly under his father's windows. Jawi
when a child liad
had the miBfortune to fall on the lanteis of the verandah of the house,
cutting open his
forehead, and inflicting a wound, which left a scar for life. "While Jawi
was cooking, his father observed him and' called out
"
Who are you cooking down there ?
Jawi replied that he was from Simbo in Sarawak, (the Sennah tribe were at Simbo near
Pangkalan
Ampat in those da)\s) and was the son of one Hanging of that country.. Up
to this time
neither father or son had recognized one another. Jawi was aware that hi*
father lived in the house, but, did not know him personally, on addressing his father he
turned his face upwards to the house, when his -father noticing the scar on his forehead
asked him how he came to receive such a wound, and received fur reply that as a child
Jawi had fallen
down on the verandah, the father then recognized and acknowledged
him as his son.
Hanging was very angry when he heard how his son had been treated
and seizing his kris would have stabbed his wife, who evading him, ran away. On her
asking
forgiveness, and saying she did not know who Jawi was, Manging forgave her but
expressed his intention of returning to Sarawak with his son. On learning this his wife
implored him to remain, while Jawi was to return loaded with presents. The upshot of
the matter was that Manging who when he left Sarawak was only known as a good carver
of Dyak ornaments, but who during his sojourn in Solo had learnt to read and write and
had become an accomplished man decided to remain with his wife, while Jawi returned
to Sennah, rich with money and valuable presents. Amongst the latter was a gold orna-
ment which is still in the possession of the tribe, and is worn bj- the present Orang Kaya
who showed
me this curious relic, which takes the form of a gold necklet, and is made of
small links run together very much like the links of watch-chains made in Europe in
imitation of snakes. The ends of the ornament are larger than the body and are narrower at
the base than at the top, which may be a little more than
^
an inch in length. Some
beads of great age have been strung together at the back of the necklet, which is streng-
thened by a piece of brass wire, evidently a modern addition. The beads are said to be
extremely
valuable, the gold work- must have been made (if the necklet came from Java)
before the
country was converted to Islamism, as I have no recollection of seeing anything
like it in
present use in Java, and it ha? all the appearance of being of Hindu manufac-
ture. The present Orang Kaya is thirteenth in descent from Manging whose house turned
into stone the Dyaks assert still stands in Solo.
The Sennah Dyaks have a tradition that the whole country was formerly under water
except Gunougs Penrissen and Bawang in Sambas. There are two points to the former
mountain Besuah and Penrissen. Not so many years ago say the Dyaks, some natives of"
one of the neighbouring islands visited Sarawak and made enquiries for I'ulo Mesuah or
Besuah, which was in some way mixed up with their traditions of their ancestors. They
were greatly disappointed to hear that it was a mountain miles in the interior.
69
Appendix B.
On the 13th of March 1871 I started from Fangkalau Ampat at hali-past 7 a. m. to reach the head
waters of the Sadong river. Heavy rain having fallen the previous evening I had great difficulty in
poling my sampan up the Senijah stream. I reached the village at 10 a. m. and left it t half-past
1 p. m. our march being over a Dyak ti-ack on the left bank of the river which we crossed, and then
continued our course over a level country till we reached the foot of Gunong Sodos.
*
Travelling now becamie difficult and fatiguing, the path being carried along the face of the mountain
was scarcely more than a foot wide, where this failed batangs, bamboos, poles, &c. had been substituted.
over which we had to crawl as we best could and to add to our troubles rain fell. At one point of our
journey I had to clamber round a huge boulder which projected over a precipice; the perpendicular
face of the mountain being above. The poles and bamboos placed here by the Dyaks to facilitate
passing this point were either dangerous being rotten, or had been carried away, and there was nothing
for it but to hold on by hands and feet to the roots and boughs of the surrounding vegetation, at one
time I was hanging only by my hands right over the precipice. The road continued up the side of the
mountain and was very steep, in fact a perpetual climb over and across a series of precipices, but at
half-past 3 p.
m. we reached the first summit and halted at the Dyak village of Sodos.
This is the village where Wallace halted for the night in 1855, it must have been larger in his
time, most of the inhabitants left the place some 3 years ago for Si Munti, the reason given being
sickness. None of the villagers remembered Wallace, they seemed pleased to see me, and led me to
understand I was the first white man they had seen. The village was not remarkable for cleanliness,
fruit trees were howover abandant, and the Dyaks S3emed satisfied and contented, showing none of
the servility and shyness so apparaiit amongst the other tribes on the vSarawak river. Leaving Sodos,
the path continued tfrer a seriesSpi'ecipices ands lateral gullies, till we came to paddy fields, when we
suddenly opened a splendid view of Gunong JVIurubong clothed to its summit with heavy jungle. We
now ascended Gunong Si Munti passing a pretty water-fall about 100 feet high, the nature of the road
being as precipitous as before. At 4
p. m. we came to the Si Munti village of the Sennah Dyaks
on the mountain of the same name.
The view from the Orang Kaya's house where I took up my quarters was magnificent. Facing
the village was the Murubong mountain perhaps 2000 to 3000 feet nigh, while the Sibai hill lay in the
rear. The Dyak houses were remarkably clean, the people appealing to form a happy, contented,
cheerful, well-to-do community, and thoroughly enjoyed seeing me amongst them. Few if any of these
Dyaks had I think seen a white man, though some should have remembered Wallace and Hay both of
whom years ago passed through this village. The people here were so civil and obliging that I could
not rejSise them when they asked me to strip to the waist, and roll up my trousers to the knees to show
I was veritable white man. This little amusement I afforded them after eating my frugal dinner on
the verandah in front of the "house, with the whole village community collected around me, gaeing with
extraordinary curiosity and most serious attention at the way in which an
"
orang puti
"
swallowed
his food, and all this without the slightest rudeness, noise or unpoliteness. As usual the Dyaks wanted
arrack, but, there being none to give, there was no mirth or music. I could understand little or nothing
of what these Dyaks said, and being very tired I was not long in finding my mat and throwing this on
the verandah, with my blanket around me I was soon asleep, but not until I had thoroughly enjoyed
the scene. I was at an elevation of some 2000 feet, the climate frosh and bracing, the moon shining
bright and lighting up the mountains which ."urrounded us, threw the heavy jungle which clothed them,
into the most fantastic shadows while some of the clearings were perfectly illuminated by her golden
streaks. The Dyaks had all retired and not a sound was heard to disturb the stillness of the night, or,
dispel the serenity of the scene.
The next morning at 8 a. m. I was again on the move, and commenced the decent of Gunong Si
Munti, the traok being good and free from obstacles. We next came to the Kyan river which we waded
across, and then ascended the Menyerri mountain. This was hard work, the road as usual being round
the face of the mountain and merely a series of precipices. At 9 a. m., we reached the summit.
Hitherto the road had been very uninteresting, but, the view which now burst on my gaze, fully repaid
me for all the trouble and fatigue I had undergone. I stood as it were on the edge of the mountain
range which separates the Sadong from the Sarawak d^rict, and overlooked the country spread out
before me, which was one mass of hills, valleys and ravines, varying in size and altitude, thrown
together and heaped and piltd up one with another in the most erratic and chaotic manner. To the
southward was Gunong Seboran, (at the foot of one of the slopes of which was the village of Menyerri)
70
ajid immediately in front of ub of Gnnong Benankan, the whole fore-gronud being filled up by the hills
and vales deicribed above, which entirely massed the landscape into one dense, 'dark green sea of
jungle. The mist covering this scene was wafted to and fro by the morning breeze, and thus afforded
occasional glimpeses of what lay beneath, and as the summits of the liills emerged from the cloud of
mist, they presented all the appearance of small islands in a milky sea. This continued till the sun
rose, dispelled the mist and gilded the whole panorama of hill, ravine, and valley with its golden and
roseate hues. Wallace in his ilalay Archipelago Vol. 1. Pages lll-lo describes this scene as "a system
of hills and valleys reproducing in miniature all the features of a great mountain region" and whose
"
features were exactly those of the Himalayas in miniature, as described by Dr. Hooker and other
travellers." I had at this time seen nothing resembling this, but, the view from Jagui mountain, and
that from Gunong Kedda on the Sekyam river, which I visited some years afterwards, presented the
same characteristics, but perhaps not in such a marked degi'ee.
Our descent from Menyerri was short, but steep, we again reached the Kyah river up which we
waded and at
^
past 10 a. m., reached the village of Menyerri a palaman or temporary hamlet of the
Sennah Dyaks. Here as at Si Munti the people clustered round to see the white man, one or two of
the elders recollected Wallace
"
the tall man with the long beard" as they called him. In his account of
his trip Wallace speaks of having seen Penrissen mountain from this village. On enquiry I found thav
the village had been moved since his visit, having formerly been erected on the summit of the moun-
tain, sickness three years ago having necessitated the change. I started at 1 p.
m., for Senankan, over
the usual Dyak path, till we again reached the ' Kyan river which was spanned by a long bamboo
bridge, Instead of crossing this, our whole party preferred plunging into the cool, limpid stream with
its pebbly bottom, and thus refreshed for the heat was instense pursued the tenor of our march, this
time over paddy fields laid out on low rounded hills. The Xyan stream which meanders over the whole
coantry, was crossed, recrossed, ascended and descended repeatedly, then after traversing belts of
jungle and extensive paddy fields we found ourselves again on the Kyan wading down which for some
distance we came at 8 p.
m., to the Sadong village of Senankan.
This village which consists of some 40 doors, is on the right bank of the Kyan scream, a main
tributary of the Sadong river. I took up my quarters in a cool and roomy headhouse with 3 skulls
hanging over me. The Orang Kaya at once put in an appearance, and later the house was crowded
with Dyaks who came in to pay then' respects, all civil, quiet, and obliging. They spoke of Wallace
who had stayed in the same building and said few Europeani had visited them. The people here were
more civilized than those of Sodos and Menyerri, and I was not asked to strip, but, having tasted my
chlorodyne and pronounced it good, I was at once assailed by
'
all the sick of the parish," who seemed
to think my medicine the cure for all diseases. In the evening I was invited to a feast at the house of
one of the headmen, vessels full of rice and sugar cane were placed on the floor, and then the perform-
ance if such It could be called comniehced. It consisted simply of beating gongs, chanangs, &c., I stayed
some time when the Orang Kaya presented me with the rice and sugar cane which were greedily seized
by my Malay followers.
At 7 a. m., the next morning I left the village, a few minutes walk brought me to Muroh Tujiong
^*^
having crossed the Kyan stream repeatedly. We had now a fine view of Gunong Si Bubuug in front
/'
of us, with Stitik to the right, and Merapjah in our rear. The road was good, through low scrub
jmigle, opening here and there to show small paddy clearings. Further on we came to some fine paddy
farms, and the country in general presented a more cultivated appearance. We had a distant view of
the Beccah range on our left, with Gunong Untendoh in our front, smaller hills being scattered over
the landscape. At about half-past 9 a. m., we came to the village of Sigow, and entered a Malay house
with a wiew to obtaining some refreshment, but, that offered being so indifferent we pushed on to the
Chinese quarter and halted at the house of one Ah Kay the passessor of a substantial wooden building,
with some pretension to comfort. As many as 10 Chinese are engaged here in gold mining, and per-
haps double this number of Malays. The former congregated at once to meet me and complained
bitterly of some Landak Dyaks who had just killed a Chinaman at Padding and his friends and rela-
tives were naturally much excited at what had occurred, I promised to report the matter in the proper
quarter. Gold here I am told is worth $23 to $24 per bongkal. One Oliinaman showed me with fiome
pride a certificate signed by Bishop McDougal which stated that one Ah Kay was a Christian and a
communicant.
After being regaled with tea and cakes and promised a more substantial repast if 1 would extend
my stay which was out of the question, I started at half-past 10 a. m., for the Dyak village of Si Jijak
on the Kyan river where I was to take prau for Tumma Soengan which was to be my resting place for
the night. Two Dyak headmen started with us, but through some misunderstanding we got separated
and myself and one Malay had to find the track as best we could. We came at last to a small
Dyak settlement where we hoped to procure a guide, but, the men were away at their farms and we
conld make nothing of the instructions given us by the few women and children who were left in
charge. The sun at this stage was fearfully hot, and 1 found my powers of endurance severely taxed,
as we pushed on through an undulated country, with no shade except such as was afforded by low
buBhes, and as we were contmually crossing extensive paddy fields even this was occasionally denied
us. We at length fell in with a party of Dyaks headed by my peon, who had set out to look for
-^^-^c/
71
loaded witti cocoa-nuts and pisaiigs, thns refreshed I was not long in reaching onr destination, and at
2
p.
m., arrived at Si Jijak having been on my feet since 7 a, m. A good bathe in the river and some
solid refreshment and 1 was ready to inspect the village which constructed in the Land Dyak fashion,
consisted of 18 doors ; the head-house was without skulls, and one-half the village was under Pamali
one of the chiefs being ill. The Dyaks here were inferior to the Senankans and the women not so
good looking.
At half-past 3 p. m. we entered a small sampan and poled our little craft down the Kyan, finding
the water very shallow, though deeper than between Pangkalan Ampat and Sennah, while there were
no rapids to obstruct our progress. The river bed and banks abounded with pebbles of the brightest
of hues, this was observed by Wallace, but, I noticed the same circumstance at the head-waters of many
of the Sarawak streams, in some places on the Sadong the river bank is one mass of these pebbles, held
together by the mere mould of the bank. At 5 p. m. reached Tumma Soengan, where I was to spend
the night, as usual I made for the pangga which contained 14 skulls, 8 of which clustered over my
head as I reclined on my mat. The village was one of 14 doors, tolerably clean, but, the Dyaks were
decidedly inferior to those of Senanban.
Early (half-past 7 a. m.) next day continued my way down stream, changing our course after a
short time we entered the Soengang whose well wooded banks afforded an agreeable shade, through
which we caught occasional glimpses of paddy fields .and as the river opened we saw Gunong Si Peddang
in the distance, and further on Si Bauwang. At 9 a. m. our boating came to an end, and I now started
to walk to Sennah over a line of countiy which had never been visited by an European and which to
the present day remains a
"
terra-incognita" to any one with a white skin. After an hour's steady
walking we came to the foot of Gunong Si Peddang, our path having been through abandoned paddy
fields, and low jungle. We now ascended and crossed some spurs of the mountain obtaining magnifi-
cent views over the Sadong country. Travelling along this portion of the road tried my activity and
climbing powers very severely, and this continued till we reached the summit. The descent on the
otherside was comparatively easy and at half-past 10 a. m. I was glad to halt at the small hamlet of
Tariting, the position of which at the base of Si Peddang was perfectly lovely. I had but time to halt
here for a short hour to bathe and snatch a hurried meal, still I noticed that the place was scrupulously
clean, while pigs and fowls were abundant, and the general appearance of the place denoted prosperity.
Most of the inhabitants were absent, those who were present looked with tokens of surprise and as-
tonishment at the arrival of a white man. Hence to Si Riang through which small collection of houses
we rapidly passed was but :i few minutes walk, this hamlet looked dirty, and contrasted unfavouraly
with Si Peddang. We now found the road simply a series of batangs and bamboos, which changed
later to small stones placed one in front of the other like stepping stones. In this way we ascended
Gunong Bombaru, the ascent of which mountain consisted of clambering over the boulders which
strewed the bed of a mountain torrent. On the summit of Bombaru we halted for a few minutes ac
the village of the same name. The descent of the mountain was very gradual through jungle, and
lower down through paddy fields which from time to time enabled me to obtain picturesque views of
distant mountains. Then came batangsiamboo bridges, abandoned paths, jungle tracks and all the
usual curses of a Dyak road, till at the last I found myself on a hiU from which I obtained one of the
finest views I had yet met with. To the southward was a mountain some 2000 to 2500 feet in height,
having all the appearance of having had the whole of it.s northern slope scooped out in a huge slice,
the base of this mountain rested in a magnificent- valley. Here and there were Dyak clearings, which
relieved the dark green of the heavy jungle, while numerous mountain streams diversified the land-
scape This is Sibou, and it is worth a visit from Sarawak, to see the scenery in the neighbourhoed of
this spot. I reached Sennah at 6 p. m., having been on my feet since 9 a. m., taking praa at once I
started for Pangkalan Ampat which I reached at 6 p.
m., having thoroughly enjoyed my trip,
72
CHAPTER YII.
Descend the Sar^ak river. Diamond digging by natives in the Sarawak district. The village
and Djaks of Sempi'. Continued descent of the Sara-svak river. The lillege and DlftkB'of S6gn.
The village and Dyaks of Stang. The village and Dyaks of Simpoke. Tebuh a p^man of the
Serin Dyaks. The Chinese settlement of Kuud on the Serin river.
The village and Dyaks of Serin. Traditions of the Serin Dyaks. Source of the Samarahan
river. The idol or jimat of Siju at Serin. The village and Dyaks of Brang.
"When I left Sennali which I did on the morning of the 26th August, little rain
had fallen and we made slow progress as we poled our way down stream, the river being
almost dry. We halted for the night at the Si Bungo village. Pushed on next morning,
and with more water under our small prau, rain having evidently fallen, found no difficulty
in paddling onwards. On our right hand we opened Gunong Mowa. and
^^^fwfvlr**^
^^"
lower down on our left the extreme southern end of the Si Bungo range,
rawak. river.
ini.iTii i ^
t i-i
the western end oi which I had turned earlier m my travels when m the
neighbourhood of Triugus. The river banks were covered with shrubs and bushes to the
water's edge, and below and between these cropped out limestone rocks. We now came to
Karangan Danno, and on our left G-unong Eumbang, which like all the hills here is simply
a huge limestone rock, with all its crags, and points clothed with jungle to its very apex.
Further down stream we came to Gunong Kayo which we passed on our left, and at the
foot of this mountain shot a rapid of the same name. Below this is Gunong Mowa which
rises to a height of over 1000 feet, almost perpendicular from the water's edge, and the
extreme end of which is of sugar loaf shape and bears the name of Gumbang. The
next hill was Sibayet which we kept in sight for sometime with the turnings of the river,
and then came to Gunong Rumbang, and at its base is Karangan Mijerin where we found a
party of Malays working the river bed for diamonds.
I may here take the opportunity of introducing a few remarks on diamond working as
"Diamond dicrging
Carried on by the natives in these districts. When diamonds are worked
bj natives in the
in the solid earth, or in the bed of the river, a shaft is sunk about 4 feet
Hanuvak district.
^q^.
^ ]jai.angan or bed of pebbles, which, when struck is generally about 3
feet in thickness. This is called Imbo, and is what is seen exposed in the banks of streams,
it is useless, and is therefore thrown aside. Below the Imbo is another karangan called
Pejal, from 9 feet to 12 feet in thickness and in this the diamonds are found. The Pejal
is very hard being made up of a conglomerate of small pebbles and is worked with a
crowbar, it is carefully placed aside, washed in circular wooden trays, and the diamonds
separated from the pebbles, Under the Fejal a stratum of boulders or large stones is met
with, to which is given the name of Ampan. With this the shaft is abandoned, as no
diamonds are found in or below it, but, only mud and sand with perhaps a little gold. The
size of the shaft varies according to the number of persons working, one man will sink a
shaft one fathom square, Avhile a party of four will not be satisfied under anything less
than 4 to 5 fathoms. The shaft is driven down perpendicular and should water be met
with, the diggers work in the water and drive for the Pejal. One way of working adopted
both in the river and on "terra firma
"
is to sink a shaft till the Pejal is met with, and then
drive another at right angles following the course of the Pejal. This is dug out and
Jbrought to the perpendicular shaft where it is handed up to the surface in baskets. In
1873 a diamond of an irregular octahedron shape weighing 78 carats was brought to
Sarawak and purchased for $200,000. This stone had been found in the valley of the
Sekyam river in the Sangouw district, but when sent to Europe not more than
1,300
73
could be obtained for it. The diamond was wliite ,in colour, the corners being slightly
tinged with yellow, so large a stone is rarely seen so white.
As I continued ray course down stream, I passed the Triu mountain on our right,
which is another huge block of limestone rising straight up from the water's edge, its base
which forms the river bank being a solid wall of stone perhaps 30 feet high. Above this
is Karaiigan Angus where I am told diamonds were formerly worked with great success.
"We now caught a view of Gunoiig Sudan, aud we then came to our destination Paugkalan
Sempro the landing-place of the Dyaks of the same name.
Half an hour's walk over a good path, aud we arrived at the village of Sempro, called
Beparuch by the Dyaks. We had en route seen the Wah, Pisah, and
Dyaks of Sempro
Supit hills in the distance, and our walk had been very pleasant. The
houses of the Sempro village are erected on the bank of a small stream
called Nap or Unnap which rises in Gunong Asak and falls into the Sarawak river above
Rheum Besar. The pangga in which I stayed was the largest and cleanest I had yet oc-
cupied and was in thorough repair. On my arrival there was not a single male inhabitant
in the place, all being at their farms. The Sempro tribe is under Orang Kaya Sungat and
Pengara Suin. There are four tompoks, Grung, Boyan, ICrew, and Sempro. The head
house I was in had 16 skulls, including a very old one, which was highly valued, but I
could not learn for what reason, except that it was the head of a great enemy of former
days. The pangga at Krew contained 15 skulls. The revenue paid by the Sempro tribe
in 1873 was estimated on 80 lawangs which at
|3 per lawang |240=00.
They also paid 600 birds nests weighing 11 catties at |3
50=

38=50.
$278. 50.
The birds nests are found in Gunongs Aggo, Kinjan, Batu Lichin, Pato and Eumbang.
My opinion of the Orang Kaya who came later in the day to see me^ is that he is either very
cunning or a great fool, or perhaps a mixture of the two, I found him capable of playing
either character. Tlie paddy crop this year has not been good, and the Malay pembakal
who is in charge here, gave the people a bad character, of all the tribes in this district he
said the Sempros are the worst. They work with no energy or regularity and have a bad
habit of building small temporary erections all over the place, some not even a stones throw
from the village. Fruit trees abounded ; but the people are poor and dirty, the houses all
erected on bilian posts are filthy, "many of the women are barren, and the general appear-
ance of the village and Dyaks far from satisfactory. Injustice to the Sempros it must be
recollected that the tribe suffered fearfully from small pox in 1851. A good deal of Siri
is planted, as also sago and vegetables for their own consumption, domestic bees are kept and
the Sempros are also boat-builders. The dead ofall classes are buried, there being twa
peninus who receive a fee of 2 tampyangs for a rich and one for a poor man. The women
here dress the same as others, except that I believe the burang is not worn, and the rimbo
consists of a mixture of both blackand red rotiSim, I obtained some pretty specimens of
carving amongst these Dyaks A feast was arraned here which commenced late, at night,
and the yells of the people combined with the beting of gongs kept me awake till day-
light.
The character of the scenery as I continued my course next morning down the river
Continued iie-
remained unchanged. Over-hanging trees, with their branches occasion-
scent of the Sara- ally meeting over head, rocky hills which we opened to right and left of
wak river.
^g^ ^11 combined to present a series of pretty landscapes. Gunong Sudan
the first hill passed rose perpendicular from the waters edge ; we left it on our right. We
now saw Sibayet keeping it in view for some time and then came to Gigit which seemed to
be only a point of Sudan. Sibayet now rose straight in our front, but, the river bending
we passed it on our left and now came to the mouth of the Nap, Unnap, or K' Nap as it is
indifferently called. Below this we opened a fine view of Gunong Grunas, and then
came to Rheum Palaju, and then Gunong Sail. We now shot Rheum Besar, and di-
rectly after came to Rheum Panjang over half of which we pushed our prau and thea
74
entei-ed the S<^u stream that falls into the Sarawak river on the right bank. The begu
stream up which we now poled our way is about 4 fathoms broad, shallow, aud
its bed covered with boulders and stones. Our jirogress was slow, but, as the boughs
of the trees united over our heads, we sufiered nothing from the hea.t of the sun. "We soon
reached a small water-fall 10 feet to la feet high which created a rapid right across the river.
This rapid bore the name of Batu Panto, aud here we had to take everytiling out of the
boat, carry it over the rock, and boulders to the river above, and then drag, lift, and carry
the boat to the deep water over the fall. It was a long and tedious business and entailed
a good deal of yelling and shouting. After half an hour's poling above this rapid, during
which we caught a glimpse ofGunong Beccan, we came to a small stream called Si Pappan,
and near this is a clearing which marks the spot where the village of Segu formerly stood.
Here are groves of fruit trees, and the Dyaks are planting jjaddy on both banks of the
stream
;
a little further up and we came to the landing-place of the present village.
The village of Sign called Bonuk by the Dyaks, stands on the right bank of the
stream of the same name which has its rise in GunongKombe. The Sah
Dyaks of sfA*
^^^^^ towers up to the rear of the houses, and further distant is another lime-
stone hillBeccan. The head house where I stayed during my visit to
these Dyaks was differently constructed from any pangga, I had yet occupied being
Temarkably lofty and steep. The building being new was clean and comfortable, and only
inferior to Sempro in size and accommodation, and had 13 skulls suspended from the
Toof. The houses are of the Land Dyak type and call for no comment except that
they are small and far from clean. There is a good road I am told between
Sempro and Sign, the distance being an hour's walk, as my leg still troubled me
I had elected to come round by river. Sign is divided into three tompoks, Kedong, Sign
and Yakriah. It is under Orang Kaya Siong a civil obliging man, and one Pengara Singing.
The tribe paid revenue in 1873 of 70 lawangs or families at |3.
|210.=00
and also delivered 500 bird's nests weighing 8i catties at
|3.
25.=50
$235. 60
There were few Dyaks in the village when I arrived. This tribe farms land at a great
distance from their head quarters, last year they were at Si Mungon near Kuap; the
Orang Kaya informed me that the paddy crop this year had been remarkably good. The
Sign Dyaks plant a fair amount of Sago for their own use, as well as vegetables. Siri is
planted very extensivelj'', in fact it may be said that this is the Siri country, for it is from
Si Buno, Sempro, Stang, Simpok, Sigu, Serin and Brang that Sarawak is almost entire-
ly supplied with this vegetable. The Sigus are no boat builders, but buy their praus from
other Dyaks, nor do they carve either in wood or bamboo. No domestic bees are kept,
aud no small houses constructed in the jungle for valuables aud paddy. The dead of the
-better class are burnt, but, the poor are simply rolled in a mat and put on the ground in
the jungle. The same complaint was made me here as at Sempro regarding the barrenness
of the women, in whose dress I found nothing to distinguish them from other female Dyaks,
-except that they follow the Sempros as regards the conical head-dress of beads. The Sigus
iave I am informed constant disputes Avith the Sempros regarding land, but, seem to get
on very well with their other neighbours the Stangs.
On the morning of the 29th of August, I was on my way to Stang over a good level
road, free from batangs and the other impediments to travelling in this country. We left
Beccan on our left, aud the Mian and Mumat Hills were visible in the distance. We halt-
ed for a short time at a Dyak place of offering, Avhich we found surrounded with clumps of
the yellow bamboo, with the
Piningat/^rub, here called Presung, and the Sekedip flower.
The Sigu stream was crossed and re-crossed repeatedly during our march. Sago trees were
planted on every marshy piece of land we came to, while on the higher ground were clusters
of fruit-trees. The Si Pappan stream was next crossed, this falls into the Sigu. The road
continued good till we reached Gunong Kombe on which stands the village of the Stang
Dyaks. Here the track became very steep and precipitous, in fact a mere trail 2 feet or 3
75
feet in width up the side of the mountain, and this narrow path is all that separates the

traveller from a precipice hundreds of feet in depth. When at the summit of the ascent
we came to a pretty water-fall, narrow, but perhaps 400 or 500 feet in height, and a stone's
-
throw from here, is the village of Stang or Setang. I calculate the whole distance from Sign
to this place at from two to three hours march.
The head-house is in good order, large, cool, and comfortable, there is another at
Sikok. On inspecting the village I found it in a very respectable condi-
T>, oi-'^ If <fIf,"*^^
tion, the houses are large and well constructed and fairly clean.. One
house here ijarticularly struck me from its bemg so different from any Land
Dyak house I had j'et seen beyond one of the same class at Sigu. The building in
question approximated so much to those built by the Sibuyau (Sea) Dj-aks that I shall give-
a short account of it here. The house is some 90 feet in length with 8 doors, and stands
about 4 feet from the ground. There is a verandah in front 24 feet broad running the
whole length ofthe building and behind this is another verandah 15 feet in breadth. This
latter is covered by the roof which slopes down to within 3 or 4 feet of the tanju, and is
supported by a split bamboo wall. Behind the outer verandah is a passage
\\ feet in
breadth, running parallel the whole way with the verandah, terminating at each end in a.
wooden door, and into this passage the 8 doors of the house all open. Between this pas-
sage (which is the thoroughfare through the house) and the inner verandah, firewood &c,,.
is stored, and light is admitted by the roof being made to rise and fall in the usual Land
Dyak manner. The roof slopes down at the rear of the building as low as it does in fronts
while the side walls constructed of attaps come down as low as 4 feet from the ground.
The rooms are small and there is a door of communication between each of these, so that
there is no difficulty in passingjfrom one room to another. The whole of the front verandah
is surrounded by a split bamboo fence 5 feet high, erected to keep out fowls and protect
the children from falling over. This (and one a little smaller at Sigu) is the best Land
Dyak house I have seen and it should be taken as a pattern by all our Land Dyak tribes.
Stang village under Orang Ivaya Sinang is very prettily erected on Gunong Kombe ;.
Sikok which is in the neighbourhood is a tompok. The tribe was once a large and flourishing
one, but, small-pox in 1851 and cholera iiv 1858 reduced the tribe from 70 to 35 lawangs,.
Sikok comiug down from 33 to 11 families. The Stang tribe paid revenue in 1873 on 35
lawangs which at
$3 per lawang $105.00
A great deal of Siri is planted here, the Sikok plantations I hear are very extensive,,
from Stang to Simpoke it is nothing but Siri, and thence to Brang it is the same. Sago is

largely planted and I am told is of good quality, the natives understand the method of
working the palm, but the grain is not exported as an article of trade, the reason given me
beintf that traders will not pay a sufficient high price in the village, which they cannot
afford to do, as from the difficulty of transport the expense is great to bring the grain to-
market. With a little encouragement Sempro, Sign, and Stang might be made flourishing
sago districts. I'addy is also largely planted by this tribe, and they had no complaint to
make of the crop. Although the men seemed strong and healthy, and I noticed no disease
e:scept korap, I heard the same complaint of the barrenness of the women, those I met
with were plump and even comely, though I cannot add the word pretty. The women do-
not wear the bead head-dress, it is only in use among the Priestesses or female doctors, and
the shell armlet is not worn so broad as with the other tribes. The Stang Dyaks burn alL
their dead whether rich, or poor, having no sexton, this office has to be performed by the-
relations and friends of the deceased.
The Dyaks collected in the Orang Kaya's house in the evening for a feast at which I
was to be present, and to which I contributed the usual presents. On my arrival I was
conducted by the Orang Kaya to my seat on some clean mats. The head men with their
wives and children then approached, and taking my right hand between both of theirs, drew
it towards them as if trying to draw off a glove, or as if they hoped to extract some es-
sence from it, ambil sijuk dingin is I believe the term the Dyaks apply to this custom y.
76
which is very common among them, and exceeding!)' disagreeable and unpleasant! Small
hawk-bills were next fastened on my wrists till I had as many as 'fifteen and more on each
arm. The Orang.Kaya then took a fowl and parading through the verandah, M-aved it
over our heads and wishing us cand his tribe iu a kind of incantation, prosperity, jilenty
and good fortune,
heaps of cliildren, healtli, abundaufie of fruit, pigs, fowls and in fact
everything that these poor ])eople .thought good and likely to confer pleasure; my Malay
follower was then asked to do the same, which lie. did but in a shorter form. Tlie fowl
"was then killed, and the blood collected iu a small cup, and passed round among the elders
to judge 1 fancy from the bubbles whether the ()men.s were propitious or not. After some
delay, I was informed that every thing was satisfactory. 'J'hc winkle party then sat down
to eat, feeding on rice and other things from plates, basins, and leaves, the out-siders had
all packets of rice wrapped in leaves given them. Tlie dancing now commenced to the
music of gongs, chanangs, tom-toms &c. &c. Some of the dunces were performed with the
bamboo frame under the Sarong, others without. The dancing itself was .similar to what
J had seen elsewhere, except that there was no loud yell at the commencement, but, each per-
former before he began took my hand between both of his in the manner I have already
described. This was repeated many times during the term of his performance, and this
ceremony was again repeated by the head men with their wives and children when I left
the house for the night.
'to'
Vfith the first streaks of dawn I was making my arrangements for a start for the
Dyak village of Simpoke, and a little after 7 a. m. I was descending Gunong Kombe by
another path from which 1 a.scended it. The road was at first very steep, but, as we clear-
ed the mountain we got on a level track, and made good jirogress. Sago trees were abun-
dant, and Siri grown in great quantities in the jungle. This latter is ti-ained up a small
tree called Soga by the Malays and Knap by the Dyaks, the bark of which is used as soap
as it lathers freely. We now ascended Gunong fcji Pieng and the view from its summit
embraced a very large tract of country. The Dyaks pointed out to me what they called
Gunong Balow, the habitat of the Dyaks of the same name. The Bukar range of hills was on
our right with Sidung at the foot of which is Muugo Babi standing out iu clear relief.
The Sadoug hills were visible in the distance prominent among which was Gunonu Silabi,
to our rear was Sibu farmed by the Sirapokes, iu front a small hill with two points called
Accot, and our left Gunong Seboran on which are settled the Sentah Dj'^aks. More to our
rear in the same direction as Seborati was Gunong Bayas and between the former and Ac-
cot is a very small hill called Buruug. In all the low country which forms the fore
ground of this picture and which is farmed by the Stang Dyaks, the sago palm flourished,
and I can see no reason why the cultivation of this palm which appears to be indigenous
to the country should not be greatly extended. The path descending Si Pieng was so over
grown that it required the unceasing efforts of four or five Dyaks with their pai-angs to open
a track. We halted after we had cleared the mouutain at a palaman of the Simpoke
Dyaks called Prang and then commenced the ascent of Guuoiig Brungo. The track of
this was steep and slightly precipitous, but Ijeing clear, and free from obstructions I had
no trouble in reaching the village of Simpoke, and as usual went straight to the pangga, a
forlorn, dirty, dilapidated building. I estimate the distance between Stang and Simpoke
at three hours steady walking.
Tlie village of Simpoke or Sapng as the Dyaks would say, is erected on tlie summit
of Gunong Brungo. It boasts three tompoks Tebuch, Sema and Benian
The village and
m. i

i
DyaksofSimpoke. The tribe paid revenue in 18/3 on 72 lawaugs at
$3
... $21(5.00
Simpoke is one of the worst-conditioned villages which it has been my fortune to visit.
The houses are small, dirty, illkept, and in wretched repair, but some of the rooms of
the houses which I entered are cleaner than one would imagine, .still very inferior to other
tribes, and there was little or no personal wealth to be seen in the apartments. Altogether
the place has a miserable, poverty smitten appearance, while the inhabitants are physically
-about the worst I had yet encounterd, the men as a rule being a mere mass of korap, the
women ugly and many ban-en, and the Dyaks inform me that many of the children
77
die at their birth, Some of the girls showed signs of good looks, but hard work, poor-
feedingj and intermarriage and early marriage, soon, told their tale and rapidlj' convert
them into uglv, dirty, diseased old hags, and this at an age when they are barely more tlian
young women. The Simpoke Dyaks have no water on the mountain near the village, every
drop of this necessary of life has therefore to be carried by the women and girls almost from
the foot of Brungo. It is a sad siglit to see the Dyak girls, some but 9 or 10 years of age,
carrying water up the mount in bamboos, their bodies bent nearly double, and groaning
under the weight and burden. While on the subject of the village I may here mention that
some of tlie Simpoke houses are constructed different from those of the Stangs &e., many of
the houses are detached, and have no front verandahs, and are built higher from the
ground. I am told by the Malay pembakal that the Siiupokes plant a good deal of rice,
but not enough fur their own wants and they eke out an esistance with sago, which palm
they cultivate but not to the same extent as tlie Stangs. Siri is also grown, and I noticed
sugar-cane and plantains. No bees are Icept, and few pigs were to be seen, the Dyaks
saying they did not thrive. These Dyaks arc fair boat builders. The solitary head-house
contained no l.'eads. they were destroyed wlien the village was consumed by fire, five years-
ago. The peojile formerly lived at Siap on the bank of the Samarahan river, and they
only removed to their present site (wliere they always had a settlement which they have
now enhu-ged) about a year ago. The tradition regarding the origin of the Simpokes is
that they are made up of emigrants from the Si Pai:jang Dyaks, and the Si Muntung people
from the .'>amaral]an district, the head-men being of Si Panjang extraction. In their cus-
toms these Dyaks follow the other tribes already described. In the evening a feast was
arranged, but, it turned out a very indifferent affair. The dirt, disease, and poverty
whicli every where met my gaze in this village disinclined me against mixing very muck
with the people, and I was glad to hasten my departure.
"We were on the move early next morning for Serin and descended Brungo over a steep
but, well kept road, and half an hour's travelling from the base of the hill brought us to
Siap. the landing jjlace of the Simpoke Dyaks and where their village formerly stood.
The Dyak.s tell me there is a good road pi-etty level between Simpoke and Serin, which
can be traversed in about four hours. This i.s nov/ so overgrown that the Dyaks who
were carrying my kit preferred dropping down stream in a crank, old sam])an to striking
this trail acros.s country. We now commenced poling down tlie head waters of the
Samarahan river, there being no rapids, or rocks, or boulders to hinder our progress, the
only obstacles were trunks and l)ranches of fallen trees,, and the shallowness of the water.
The Simpoke Dyalcs are no boatmen, and their efforts to propel our small boats were
Indicorous in the extreme, imd generally ended in two or three of them being toppled over
together head foremost into the water. After an hour's poling we came to Pangka Ian
Petti where the Dyaks bring down their revenue or petti, hence the name, and about
three hours more poling brought us to the mouth of the Serin river, which we ascended,
and finding as free from obstacles as the Samarahan we had no difficulty in pushing our
way up stream. The shallowness of the water delayed us considerably, and it was late
in the afternoon when we brought up at Tebut, a Palaman of the Serin Dyaks on the right
bank of the river.
I was very glad to find myself in a small, clean, comfortable head house without
however any heads in it but in lieu thereof a fine peal of a:onirs. The
i Phut
.1
i aianian
pjii^orga here is onlv a short distance from the landing-place, to which
ot the.^eiin Dyaks. ', &= .
n i
.'
i

i v i i i i -i i
there is a well kept road, including a long l)amboo bridge over a marshy
piece of ground. 1 found the Dyaks here well built, strong looking fellows, korap how-
ever was very prevalent, one victim to this disea.<e who was my neighbour in the head
house was in a fearful state, being covered with this skin disease from head to foot, he
poor fellow appeared to suffer great pain. The women here were much superior to the
general run of Land Dyaks, beint; stout, hale and hearty. They dressed like the women-
of the other tribes except that the pointed head dress of beads v/a.s not seen, though I was
told it was in use. Silver coins are freely Avorn round the edge of the jammu and round
the v.aisr, while silver chains round the neck were fa- from uncommon, these latter being
78
also affected by. the men. The village said to be of 17 lawang'S although only a Palaniau
is in good order, free from dirt and stench, fruit trees had been freely
planted and the
vhole place had a thorough flourishing appearance, at the same time I heard that the
inhaiiitants had uot sufficient rice to carry them through till next harvest,
in fact these
Dyaks are so well off in birds nests that they do not pay sufficient attention to their
ijaddy
planting.
The next morning I was on my way U}) stream to Serin. A few minutes ])olino'
and
The Chinese sot-
"^^e came to a small colony of Chinese who were here in the double
capaci-
tleincnc i)f Kui'i.l
tv of gardeners and gold-workers. The settlement bears tlic name of
on die sciiu liver,
i^^-^^d^ ai^] extends over botli hanks of the stream, though tiie houses are
on the right bank. Formerly the population here was consideralde, but, thev have left for
Koon on the Sadong river, and the number now does not exceed twelve. The "-old here
is said to be inferior to that of Burn. It was quite a i)leasure to see the hio-h state of cul-
tivation The country liad been brougb.t into in tliis small settlement, the wiiich struck me
the more living as I had been so long in the jungle. The gardens were beautifully laid
oiu, the landing-place was not a notched post or two struck in a sloping
direction in the
water as is the custom with Malaj's and Dyaks, but, a solid cutting into the bank slopiuo-
down to the water's edge with a properly kept and coiistrneteii path to
the houses.
The
fruit-trees were highly cultivated, and the jungle in the neighbourhood
cleared
for many
yards round. I halted here for a short time and could only mutter to mvself an earnest wish
that the day might not be far distant when we had more Chinese settled in Sarawak ter-
ritory. Just above the village of Kfmd is a rapid of the same name, formed of lam-e stones
and rock.>, and here we hud to remove ourselves and i)olongings out of tiie prau fo euable
the boat to be dragged to the dee]) water above. Above the rapid the water
deeiiened
and poling was easy
;
we caught a view of Gunong Drut and after about two hours l)uatiuo'
landed on the right bank, whence an hours' walk througli puddy ciearino's
brouu-ht us to
Gunong Gayu at the foot of which is the Serin village.
The Serin or Penj'owah tribe is settled in five t()m])oks. Ivrian, I'rvali, Drut
'J'ebut
and Serin. The Orang Kayn was one Ijar, wlio is dead and no chief will
Dyaks oi %rin'."
Reappointed until the Rajah returns from Europe. The
general opinion
))()ints to one Tappi, Tjar's younger brother as the .successor
to the Orano-
ICayasliip. This man resides aflerbut, he a[)pears to he i)opiilar, and I found
him civfl
and resjiecrablc. There arc two Pengaras one at Drut called babek, and another ar Seria
called Garip.
The Serin tribe paid revenue in.iy73on 117 lawangs whicii at $0=
y 351.00
They paid also 500 birds nests weg.
i)6J
catties sold at ^o'-''
'
309. liO
s^
GGO.CO
This tribe is one of the most flourishing of the Laud Dyak tri'jes, thev
plant l)esides
Paddy
Sago, Siri, Ginger, and vegetables of all kinds for their own use, the usual o-ioves
of fruit-
trees are also observable, pigs and fowls are abundant and bees are kept under some of
the houses. The Serins are wealthy from the sale of their birds' nests, the workino-
of some
of the caves in which these are found they divide with their neighbours
the Bukars
with
whom they are not on friendly terms. The cavea of Gunong Pyang regardino-
which they
quarrelled with the Bukars, was divided between the two tribes i)y order of
Government
in
the followinji manner. The Bukars were to hold the caves for two years, and
thev were
then to go permanently to the Serins
;
this year the two years of the Bnkar
tribe are en-
ded and next year they go to the Serins. Tliere is another dispute? pendiun
between
the
Serins and the Taup Dyaks regarding the caves of Gunong Myap.
The Sei-ins
are boat
builders and good boatmen, they are physically well built and strong,
but thev
suffer very
much from korap. Silver ornaments are much worn and the
sheaths"
of many of
their swords are silver mounted. Kotwithstanding all this I hear
their
stoie of
rice will be consumed before the new supply comes in, and they will
have to fall back
on sago, or what they can purchase. The men seem Avanting in
enerf>v and the sooner
an Orang Kaya is appointed the better. The Serin women are well
favored
stroni-- and
healthy and there is no complaint of their being barren, one or two of th'e <arlswere
79
decidedly good looking.
The attii-e of tlie women is similar to that of other tribes
alrei\dy described,
they
wear broad shell armlets, and the conical bead head-dress is
freely worn but, is not in such general use as among the Tringus and some other trilies.
The rambi is maile of black and red rotans mixed, but, even in every day wear, silver coins
are worn by many round the edge of the petticoat, round the waist, and silver necklets
round the neck.
_
I walked through the village with some of the elders and found the
houses of the ordinary
Land Dyak type, clean inside and out except under the buildings.
There are four
head-liouses belonging to the tribe with an aggregate of oO skulls, the
greatest number being in the Drut pangga.
I could extract little from these Dyal<s as to their origin but they agree with the
Ti-idition .f th
"^'^i^'-' tribes in saying that they came from Sikong. According to
Seiin DviiUs.
their story they are of the same stock as the Sennahs and separated
from Trau at Batu Jung. Si Bungo, Sempro, Groon, Staug, Tabiah,
Segu, and iirang
say these Dyaks are all of Trau's following. The head-men in this
village told me, thouph I know not what trtith to attach to their, statejnent, that when the
Land Dyaks first settled in Sarawak territory from Sikong, there were no Sea Dyaks
in their proximity,
and head hunting was unknown. It was not until after they had
settled some time in various parts of the country, that the Sibuyan Sea D^'-aks in attacking
them, taught them the custom of head-taking, which they have never followed so
persistently or with so much ardour as the Sea Dyaks, for the simple reason that it
was not their original custom.
According to the Serins the Samarahan river has. three sources, the Simpoke and
g^^ij.
. .
Serin streams called respectively Maong and Pryah by the Dyaks,
Samavahau Uiver.
^^'^ anothe)' called Sirah. All these streams rise in Gunong Gayu.
I have now to relate a curious story regarding an idol or jimat
which is said to he in the possession of the Serin Dyaks. A Dyak at Terbut men-
, .,
, ..
tioned tome that there was a pano-jra in the head village where was
of sijii at Seiin.
preserved an idol or charm called liy the name or Siju, addmg i
should try and see it, though I might probably not be successful, as no
one was allowed to enter ihe building in question except those of the chiefs in whose
custody the idol remains. On enquiring from Pengara Garip whether it was true that
such a jimat was preserved in the head-house I was met with an indignant denial,
and was told there Avas no such thing in existance. Finding the house in question,
however, I entered it without informing any one of my intention, but, no sooner was
it known that I had done so, than such of the inhabitants who were in the village
congregated in front of their houses, and the greatest excitement prevailed. I found
nothing; worthy of remark iu the building, which was clean lofty and in thorough repair,
and contained only gongs and some 18 or 20 skulls. If the idol is in this building it
must have been
(
as in fact I -was afterwards told it was
)
placed in the roof which is
high and pointed. So jealous were the Serins of my obtaining ny information about
this idol of Siju, that when I proceeded to visit the neighbouring tribe of Brang, a Seriu
Dyak was sent to follow me, and on my making enquiries from the head-men iu the
Brang village, my .Malay Abang distinctly heard the Serin Dyak caution the'Braugs
in the Land Dx'^ak language against givmg me any information, and thus my efforts to
collect anything authentic regarding Siju from this people met with no success. The
following is all I can learn regarding this curious Story. The idol is said to be of cop-
per in the shape of a frog or as some will have it a man seated cross-legged about
the size of a frog and the Dyaks know it under the name of Siju. The tradition
handed down by the Serins is that in ages past, four brothers ancestors of the Serins
went to Java to a place called Teluk Siap near Samarang, where Siju the eldest of the
brothers having partaken too freely of the tisli called buntal ( which is said to have
the effect if, not properly cooked of making the eater sick and drunk ) died. The
brothers buried the body in Java, and then took prau to return to their native country.
The vessel however refused to move, '"depend upon it said the youngest of the brothers
this is Siju's spirit who is detaining us" On this they returned, disinterred the body
and took it on board, when the vessel gave them no further trouble and they- arrived safe at
80
Serin, Here the youngest brother had a dream in which Siju appeared to him, and
said that the tribe had better be collected, and a great feast given, when he would come
to life again and be present. This -was done and Siju attended tlie gathering. He
told the people never to be afraid of theij- enemies, for as long as tliey venerated and
respected his memory, so long would he be with the tribe, his spirit would lead them
and their Avarriors and when they attached he would always be in advance and lead
iliem to victory. If they cared for and tended him, he would protect them and theirs
from sickness and evil, and would be,' in fact, the guardian spirit of the tribe. After this feast
Siju died again, and from this time he always ajjpcars on the scene in the shape of a
copper frog. Serin has never been conquered or tlie country taken by the Sea Dyaks
as is the case with nearly all the other Laud Dyak tribes. This good fortune is at-
attributed to Sijn's protection and assistance, and the Serins assert that when their
country was invaded, the assailants always died before they could accomplished their
purpose. The Serins were twice attacked by the Dyaks of Senankan Tumma from
Sadong, and twice were these enemies repulsed losing over 400 men. Not being able*
to obtain possession of the idol by force, the Senankans stole it l>y stratagem, and wished
to carry it off to their country, but before the thieves had accomplished half of their
homeward journey, the majority were dead men. Jn fact whosoever laid hands on
the idol died. In despair therefore they threw it awiiy in the jungle, haviug first broken
off one of the legs. The idol formerly wore a berowan or necklet made of gold, this
was stolen by the Senankans, but, say the Serins, when the thief reached his own country,
he and the berowan were both turned into stone, and there they are to the |)resent day.
At Senakan Tumma the berowan is a charm for the tribe, and the man in stone is above
ground under the verandah of the head-house. The idol Siju, having been deprived
by the Senankans of one of his legs, could only limp with the greatest difficulty;
he wivs therefore more than a month in tlie jungle, Avheu he encountered a clump
of yellow bamboo, touching which with his broken leg they all died. Finally he reached
Serin, aud crawled under the head-house, which was erected on the same site where
now stands tiie building in which Siju is still preserved. At the time of Siju's arrival
under tiie paugga, a Dyak was shtirpening his parang on a stone, over which he oc-
eiisionally [lonred water. As the v/ater dripped down balow through the lautis of the
liuor, the drops fell ou ti large lea!' called tra[) by the Dyaks, making at the same time
a k)ud and pi'culiar sound, not liking which the Dyak removed to another corner oi the
building, aud resumed his occupation. The leaf, however, continued to follow him, and
wherever he settled himself in the head-house there was the leaf below him. This
continued till the man gjowing angry went uuder tiie pangga, and call out
'
Why is
this leaf always following me." when, on examination Siju was found concealed beneath
it, who told the Dyak to take him up to the head-house, collect the people, and make
a feast. Siju then appeared, and told the assembled Dyaks to tend and*. preserve him;
if this was faithfully aud carefully done he would continue his protection and defend
them against their enemies. The Dyaks .say that whenever they went on the war-path,
a noise, as if of 1000 warriors armijg aud preparing for the strife, was heard in the head-
house. Once in every four years a great feast is held at Serin in honour of Siju. This
year the feast had been conducted on a large scale, and no less than 2-4 pigs were sacrificed.
Unfortunately I arrived too late to be present, but I was told that ou these occasions
Siju, or the idol, is taken down from the roof of the pangga where it is kept, and di-
vested of the bark of the pisang tree which covers the box in which the idol is preserved.
The idol is then taken out of the bos, and, at the place of worship, the white cloth, in
which it is wrapped, is unrolled, a cup full of cocoa-nut; water, mixed with the
leaves of the sekadip aud piuingnt plants, bieing placed at a little distance oil". Siju, say
the Dyaks, jumps into the cup aud
proceeds to butlie, being aided by the elders, who
brush him with fowl's feathers, and, when his ablutions are finished, the water in which
he has bathed is sprinkled over the heads of the assembled people. No one but the three
head-men is permitted to see Siju in his bath, or in fact, see hiui at all, they alone may
81
but a figure of one of the Hindu gods, seated crosti legged with folded arras, such
as are often met with in Java sculptured on ancie:it ruins, or are occasioually dug
up in the form of copper, bronze, or stone idols. The jiniat has probably been in the {)os-
session of the tribe from a remote period, and may in some way throw a light on the earlier
history of this people. It would be most interesting to know c:iactly what this idol,
charm, or relic really i.s, and I can only hope that those, who follow in my footsteps among
tiie Land Dyaks, will be successful in elucidating- the i.rue i^istory of Siju, und dispelling
the mystery with which ii is now surrounded.
^.
On tiie 3rd of Angiist I left Serin for the village of Brang, ray road skirting the
foot of (lunong Gayu brought me to a small temporary settlement of
Dyiiks of UraiT"'"'
the Brang Dyaks, called Si Tara. Here we ommenced the .tscent of
Grunong Sauh which hill, though high, is easily mounted, as the road to
tiie summit is good and up a gradual slope, differing in this respei;t from th'i other ascent
to this village from the pangkalan at Muara Temurang on the Sarawak river. I es-
timate the distance to Brang from Serin at 2 hours walk or from 4 to o miles, and the
road from Muara Temurang at about one hours walk or 3 niiltis, over a feai-fully steep
mountain track. I made a small pangga in Brang village ui}"^ (j^uarters so long as I re-
mained among this people. The building Avas small, affording accomodation for only
three or four persons, very dirty, uncomfortable and full of cockroaches. The Brang
tribe is under Oraug Kaka i\Ia [sc and a Pengara named Bi Sye.
It paid tax in 1873 on 55 lawangs at S3 ... ... %
1G5.00
They paid also 7 cai.ties of uestj^ sold at |o. ... , %
21.00
187.00
The village, with ona head house, coa><ists of four tompoks, Griaug, Brang, Bugak, and
Bong-padu. It is erected on Gunong .'i^auh and there is nothing worthy of note
in the construction of the houses which are comparatively clean, but small, badly built
and in wretched condition. The Brang Dyal:* are a poor ami miserable tribe, wedged
in between the Serins and Si Buugos. The men seem low spirited and despondent, and are
physically inferior to almost all tlnj Land Dyaks I have met with, 'i'he women bear
but poor children, their constitutions being enfeebled by clos'.; inter-marriage and by the
hard-ships attendant upoir their wihl and labouriou.s existence. The Brang tribe seems
to be fast dying out, and in their present condition will soon be extinct. The head
men spoke gloomily of their prospects, the rice crop had beer, bad, and beyond the little
sago which is f)lanted the tribe has little to depend on, I i-.aw no domestic bees kept iu
the village. Korap is very prevalent, and some cases of goitre came under my notice,
Tliese Dyaks, like the Serins and other tribes, burn their dead, the scale of charges here
being 6 passu^ of rice for a rich man, 2 passus lor ordinary individuals and boys,
and 4 gantangs for a child.
In the time of Muda Ha.ssim, before Sir James Brooke accjuired the territory,
this tribe was attacked, and the country taken by a hula ccmposed of Balow, Bukar,
Sakaran and Sarebas Dyaks, under Abangs Mnrsat and Muinbang. This war party
remained 7 days in the village, cut down the frr.it trees and destroyed all the paddy
crops, and finally burnt down the whole place. They followed the inhabitants' to the
summit of the mountain whither they Inul fled for refuge, and killed indiscriminately all
wliora they met with. Those of the Brangs who escaped fled to the Sennah and neigh-
bouring tribes, who afforded them shelter and nothing more.
At night the Dyaks collected at a least given -in the Orang Kaya's house, it was
a poor affair, but in the present state of tiie tribe I could expect nothing more. I left
uirang the next morning to return to Serin, following my former track, I halted lor a
snort time at Serin, and then pushed on for Krian over a level road, very muddy and
much overgrown. After two hours walk, daring wliicli we oro.ssed the Serin stream, we
arrived at torapok Krian at the foot of Gnnong Tiiw;ir. The usual least was arranged
here in my honour, but, aftui- the treatment I had e\'[)eri(.Mice(l at the iuuuls of these Dyaks,
I declined to attend, and retired to my matin the panii^a. A deputation of girls waited
on me to induce me to attend, but, I adherod to my original resolution, and the result
of my abfeence was, I am glad to say, that the feast was a total failure.
82
CHAPTEK. VIII.
The Bukar tribe of Land Dyaks. The village and Dyaks of Kutnpang. The village and Dyaks of
Jiuau. The villapeand Dyaks of Lanchang. The village and Dj'aks of Mungo Babi. Tradition as to
the origin of the Bukar Dyaks. Descend the Samarahan river. The Dyak village and tribe of Seii-
lah. The Bunga Sekedip. Xuap, a Palaman of the Sentah tribe.
Early on the moruing of the 5th September, I was on mj' way to Kurapaiig the first
of the villages of the J3ukar tribe. Our march was over a muddy track, batan^'s covered
with f,Tass, aud then throufrh old jungle. We caught a view of Gunong Punangau, aud
soon came to the Sira stream which rises in the above mountain, and falls into the iSama-
rahan. The next stream encountered waslheMas, and a little further on the Eesun-.'.
both ofwbich streams were waded across two or three times; we then emerged on a large
Dyak clearing of felled junjjle, where the Dyaks only awaited our crossing before firing it.
'i'raversinp this clearing was fearfully fatiguing work, and took us some two hours to ac-
complish, the heat being intense. Entering some ohi jungle we began the ascent ofGunong
Nambi on which hill the Kumpangs have erected their village Our troubles were not te
end here, for on reaching the summit we found we had another Dyak clearing of felled jun-
gle to cross, aud we did not reach our destination till o
p,
m.
1 have to thank the Serin head-men for being the cause of ray undertaking one of
the most wearying marches accomplished during this trip. As already slated the Serins
were unable to hold a feast at the village owing to its being under
"
])amali," a death hav-
ing just occurred. I was therefore invited to proceed to Torapok Drut to become the guest
of Pengara Babek, aud preside at a feast there. I found, after proceeding a short distance,
that the tompok in question was much further oiFthan these DyaUs had lead me to believe,
aud, as the road ran through limestone rocks, travelling was very slow. As I had to leave
for Brang the next morning, I refused to proceed and returned to Serin, On my return to
Serin from Brang, the headmen induced me to continue my march to Krian, hoping to
persuade me to preside at a feast there, and assuring me that vi.iiting this iompok for the
night Would shorten my journey to Kumpang on the morrow. The fact wa^ theae head-
men really cared little what become of me after I left Krian, so long as I was present at
the feast, m}'' presence at which would confer an honor on the tribe. In this J am glad to
say I disappointed them, but, I lelt very anno^'ed when I learnt at Kumpang that there
was a good road from Serin to thi.s village, which could be traversed in less than three hours.
Iliad now arrived at Kumpang, one of the villages of the Bukar tribe. 'I'here are
three other villages, Jinan, Lancbang, and Mungo Babi. Barn, whose pro-
of'^In^D'^Ik"^^
portion of bird's nests i)aid as revenue in 1873 amounted to 1,070,
may be
counted as a village, but is really only a Palaman or temporary settle-
ment. The Bukar Dyaks differ from all the otiier tribes hitherto visited by me, in one
great feature in their customs, they bury ail their dead. In common with the other tribes
they consume no beef, and they have such a prejuilice againts venison that they will allow
no deer to be cut up in their villages. These Dyaks have however cleared tiie jungle for
food of nearly every other living thing, and enjoy pork and arrack as much as any of their
brethren. Many of the men of the Bukar tribe have well and strongly developed beards
and whiskers, differing, in this respect, from all the other Laud Dyak tribes; they claim a
descent from, Pegu, aud the story or legend of their origin is as I shall relate, auA attempt
to ex])lain this peculiarity. Physically I consider the Bukar tribe in many respects supe-
rior to the other Dyaks, and there seems more energy and self-reliance in the men. There
are no boat-builners amongst them, their bouses, as I shall explain in the course of my
83
narrative, are constructed rather differently, from the usual Land t)yak style
;
the dress is
similar to that of other Dyaks, but the women do not alfect beads, though the head head-
dress or burang is worn by the bilian or priestesses, and in one of the houses I found one of
these bead caps closed at the top, as worn by the bilian at Gumbaug
The Bukar tribe paid revenue in 187S on 197 lawangs at
$3
... ... $591.00
The revenue in bird's-nests from this tribe is 10,000 aud 11.000 nests
every alternate year. This year the number paid was 10.000. or
1^
picul, at 2 337.50
$928.50
From the above figures it may be seen that the Bukar Dyaks are the wealthiest of all
the Land Dyak tribes. This is to be attributed to their possession of luimerocs caves fre-
quented by the swallows whose nests, so value^d by the Chine.^ie, realize such high prices.
The principal caves are those of Siri in Gunoug Nambi, Tambaco, Sambayaii and Panji
in Gunon"- Myap, though Nambi and Myap are peaks of one mountain ; the other caves are
known by the name of the mountain in which tiiey are funnd, viz: Gunoug Pyans:. The
Bukars told me a different story from the Serins regarding the cavis of Pysuig. They
say that in the time of Sir James Brooke the Serins were fined by him for not working the
caves properly, they having lost one or two men from thy ladders nnd fittings being out of
order. The Serins then abandoned the caves entirely, aud for tho last 7 years they
have been worked by the Bui:ars who have kept the ladders and titting.s in through repair
;
now the Serins re-claim the caves though they are close to Bukar and .some distance
from Seriu.
On ray arrival at Kurapang I at once made my way to the pangga\
The village aiiil^ rpj^jg
building, which is large, was in a perfect state of ruin, the walls and
yu so ump Ho
^^^^
^.^^jj ^^ holes, and the roof, in many places, open to the light of
heaven. The village is, without exception, the dirtiest, the foulest, and most abominable
collection of ricketty, rotten, tumble down buildings I have met with on my journey.
'J'he houses are small, old, and in ruins, patched with leaves and bark, many being with-
out attap.s,
while the verandahs were simple diaigerous to walk over, being only hits of
wood and bamboo thrown loosely and widely over the transverse pieces. Under and
around the house filth, refuse, mud and rubbish had accumulated, and in this, numer-
ous pigs wallowed with delight. The condition of the village was simply disgraceful, and
the
only excuse for this state of things is the fact that the Dyaks are contemplating re-
buildino- their houses' at the foot of the hill, having no enemies now they see no occasion
foi
continuing to live un the summit
Notwithstanding
what I have said above of the state of the village, these Dyaks
are well made, sturdy fellows ;
except goitre I noticed little disease, and there seems to
be no sicknes.s. The people are well off in paddy and sa-jo having some 500 or 600 trees
of the latter, while they are aLso wealthy, obtaining as they do a great deal of money from
the sale of their bird-U'-sts. The Kumpangs, like the Serins,..are fond of old tiini muskets,
rtud swords in silver
mounted sheaths, and altogether these Dyaks are far from poor or
wretched, though the dirt and tilth, in which thty exist, wduld lead one to arrive at a
different
conclusion.
Kumpang po.esesscs two tompoks, Sumbiih ami Parin, there are 39 lawangs, and it is
under no (^rang Kaya or Pengara, both being dead, and no successor will be appointed
until the Rajah's return from Eiirope.
A Tuah, one Ninggal, a respectable obliging old man is in charge, and I learnt from
him that the proportion of nests, paid by Kumpang as its share of revenue, anu)nnted to
1770. There is only one sexton in this place here called
"
beriugah," and his duties differ
from those of the peninus of the other tj-ibes, as the Kumpangs, like the rest of the Bukar
tribe,
bury their dead and do nut burn them.
84
I vraji glad to leave Kumpang the state ofthe place prevented raj' iaspectiug
it. and
TheTillaireand f*?^
^^ ^^^.
^0';^^'
^
^^^
^J
^^y ^^ Lauchung,' with the
iiiteiition
of
Dr&ksof Jinan.
halting during the heat of the day at. Jiuan. I estimate the
distance
to
Jinan from Kumpau'i at 2 miles over a fair track had it not been
over-
prowu with grass. The village is situated at the foot of a hill called
Biuampuu,
it is un-
der Oraug Kaya Yenna, boasts 28 lawangt and S panggas with 23 skulls.
The condition of the houses in Jiuan is better than those of Kumpang, but, still they
are small, dirty and far from well kept while the dirt and refuse in thefr proxunity
was
almost equally disgusting. The head house in which I had halted was in good order,
square
in shape, (the first of the kind I had yet met with) constructed of planking with split
bam-
boo floor, and a nan'ow verandah on two sides.
The Jiuan Dyaks plant sago as well as paddy having as many as 800 trees of the
former, fruit trees seemed also abundant. The proportion of nests paid by the Jinans last
year was 2,150. and they as well as the rest of the Bukar tribe keep no domestic
bees.
The
Jinans though living in a shocking state of dirt are like the Kumpangs really
well off they
are rich in gongs, cloths, swords, muskets, bi'ass wire and articles of European
mannfac-
turesuch as lamps, boxes, knives, bottles Ac.
.\1y next halting-place for the night was to be Lancliang and I traversed
the road
to this pla^e from Jinan in about an hour over a good level path though in some parts
we were knee deep in mud. We struggled up the bed of the Kuwas river which
rises
in the Sidung mountain, and falls into the Sadong below Tibukanw, it is broad but shal-
low and the village of Lanchang is built on its right bank at the foot of a hill called
Ubom.
Lanchang under Orang Kaya Paraancha Lagga.and Pengara Guddus consists of 73
The village and
lawangs with four head houses
; some of these panggas are circular in shape
D.vaks of Lan- not large, but, s^ith. & ver?/ high steep pitched roof, the upper Dortion
of
*^^""=-
which is perpendicular and made of attaps. and the lower part of planking.
The head house however in which 1 stayed was large, square and paralellogmm
shaped,
and perhaps twelve feet from the ground with a low pitched roof The walls were
constructed
of planking, and instead of the roof being made to be raised as is the case with the Land
Dyak houses in general, narrow doors were introduced at irrejiular distances.
There were
sixof these besides the.entrance door, and they opened on a small narrow
verandah of split
bamboo (lantis) two feet broad which ran round the whole building. The floor was made
of lantis, there was as usual a cooking place in the centre of the room and a few raised
sleeping places.
The houses of the Lanchang Dyaks and in fact of the whole Bukar tribe stand in
blocks some 160 feet in length, raised about four feet from the ground. The roof slopes down at
the back ofthe house till it reaches and rests on a boarded wall three feet high, the roof open-
ing over every room forms the window, admitting liglit and air in the Land Dyak fashion.
In front, the roof is the same, and rests on a boarded wall or partition which encloses the
inner verandah twelve feet broad, and outside of this there is another verandah or platform,
ten feet broad, generally a foot or two lower down. The bamboos of which these are construct-
ed, are most slovenly and loosely placed and the whole building has in fact a most forlorn
and wretched appearance. In some of the rows or blocKS, in front of every door u portion
of the roof is continued over the outer verandah to form a small fowl-house or coop, but,
this is not universal. The Bukars are the only Dyaks I have met who fised their pij^s in
the verandahs, this is done in the lower verandah. The interior of a house is divided into
three compartments fifteen feet in breadth. The first compartment entered from the door
has a fire-|>laceon each side with a passage between into the next compartment,
which may
be said to be in the same room there being nothing to mark the separation, but a thick bamboo
joist in the floor. This second compartment which is used as the sleeping or lounging
place is about twelve feet in length. In the third compartment also twelve feet long are stored
the household goods

^jars, guns, swords, charms, gongs, baskets, cloths, Ac, &c., and here
85
uiuler the raised roof a portion of the floor is railed oft' for storiujz bottles, jars ofarrak,
oil itc. Sic. The sides of the houses are all of planking and the floors of laiitis. The a-
bove account of a Bukar Dyak house describes the habitation of Fengara Guddus. The
intei-ior of the houses at Lanchang were clean and exhibited a good deal of the wealth
such as Dvaks prize, no trib'>. have I found e(iual the Bukar in thiji respect. A yreat ma-
ny >:ilver coins and ornaments are ob.servable, sheaths of swords and parangs beiiijf covered
with tliis metal, while silver coins were worn round the edge of the petticoat, and mixed
witii snbitsoj' the same metal round the waists uiid loins of the women., Tlie effluvinm aris-
ing from tliH accumulation of dirt and refuse in this village was really fearful. The
honse.s being I)uilt ou level ground^ tliere is no natural drainage, and the Dyaks have made
none for themselves. Living as 1 did in the head house which was but slightly raised
from the ground I had the full benetit of all thi.s, and 1 arrived at .the conclusion that
Singhi wliich enjoy.s the unenviable notoriety of being the dirtiest of our vilhiges can no
longer claim this distinction. The Lanchangs had just repaired and in many instances
entirely re-buik their houses, they had consequently p'>t them under pamali for four days,
two of which had already expired. The Dyaks wished me to stay till the houses were
free, when they would have entertained me at a feast, but being pressed for time I was
obliged to decline.
The LanchauH Dyaks plant little beyond paddy, they have about ten sago trees, ond
fruit tree.s are of course abundant. Their proportion of bird's nests paid to Government
amounted to
;j,080 nests. Like the rest of the Bukar tribe, the Lanchaiigs bury their dead,
there being two beringahs or sextons in rhis village being the same number as at Jinan.
The women dre.ss very like all the otlier Land Dyaks from Gumbang to Serin, shell arm-
lets and In-iiss wire beiny in f^eneral use,' beads however are not in much favour. I am told
the bead head dress is worn, but, saw none myself, it is said to be smaller or rariier shorter,
one half of the heiyht of the one usually worn. Men and women wear a large round hat,
fittino- tighr, round the head by a band on which is i-aised.the flat cover about two feet and
more in diameter.
I started for the village of ilungo Babi on the 7th September, enjoying a walk of two
hours duration over a good level path, ti)e iirst jjortion of our march being over the latter
part of our track from Jinan, and we waded down ihe Kuwas stream On approaching
Miuifio Babi we passed clo.se to the ibot of '.'runong Nambi an immense mass of limestone
rock in which are the caves of Siri and Tambaeo, both of these were pointed out to raeby
iNin^r^al of Kumpang who was our guide. It is in these caves that so many of the bird's
nests are found, the sale uf which adds .<o greatly to the wealth of the Bukar tribe. The
Dyak custom is for the passer bye to wave iii.s respects to the Siri cave and we added our
"
tabi " to that of the others.
The village of Mungo IBabi embowered in fruit trees, is erected on a small hill at the
The viiiao-e and
f^ot of Gunong Sidoug. Oraug Ivaya Manjus is chiefof these Dyaks hav-
Dyaks of Miingo ing Peugara babuk and Pangliina Yaiiguu under iiim. Mungo Babi con-
'^*'"-
sistri of two tompoks Bungkakand ilunoo Babi, with two head houses and
41 heads and pays revenue on 52 lawani::s. The proportion of nests paid by the.se Dyaks
amounted to 1,930, they plant a good deal of sago, while tobacco is grown in sufficient
quantities to supply their own wants. There are two sextons in the village and I am told
that the dead are not buried in coffins, but, are wrapped in a mat, dressetl according to their
rank and thus lowered into the tomb, The men and women are well shaped, strong,
comely and healthy, some of the youni; women almost good looking? several of the little
girls decidedly pretty. There is little sickness and I. found all the Ikakars from the head
men downward.^ very civil and obliging.
The head house which I occupied was clean, and differently constructed from that of
Lanchang being circular in shape, with the perpendicular straight pitched roof, and win-
dows as usual of attaps which could be rais.?d orLiwored at pleasure. Tiie houses here are
smaller than those of Lanchang, hut, their condition internally and externally is identical
and my remarks on tiie houses of thfi former village apply in their fullest force to Mungo
86
I
Babi. Around the houses the filth, ofiKl, refuse aud mud create such a stench, thkt itis'-
at times uueudiirahle,
1 attended u ieast ^iven in Jionoiir of my visit, at tlie Panj^lima's liouse. The
ijro-
cee dings were opened hy the Pauglinia ofiering U]) a |)rayer for good ]ni;k fur me, the
country, and the peoj)le in general; food was then phtced a.siiie for Dewntii. Wliile the
gong^ were beaten nt tlie most furious rate, presents of rice and rggs were hroiight and
placed before me, my seat on the floor hein^i on fine- mats, while tlie walls liehind me
were covered with handoiue sarongs and cloths, anionjist the intter wore olendcd
pieces of kain bertabur (silk or satin cloth witli tliroads of gold riinnint,' through it for-
ming the patlern). Tiie Dyakis now began to eat and drink, ,sonie anaclc 1 had ifrevionsl}'-
given them had been mixed with water in an eartlienware jar, auil this mixture was ser-
ved out in small cups having been ladled out of the jar in a sjioon called a giung made
from the seed of the fruit of the bilian tree, the handle which was made of wood being
preitily carved, with its end ornamented with feathers. Some three or four times du-
ring the entertainment the men pave a loud shout of upproval. and tlms also couchided
itp when dancing -was commenced by a young man in a very handsomely embroidered
jacket, with a solid silver belt fasteninj; his saronn, which was worn over a small bam-
boo frame or crinoline, while u hornbiirs head and tail graced his head'and bells dangled
round his ancles. This dandy was followed liy another Dyak who wore a large Chinese
gold buckle on his silver waist belt. Tiic dancinj was simihir to that already described
as customary araon^.' the Land Dyaks. After a time' the women and girls joined the
dance, but, figuring by themseives apart, these threw haunsome gold embroidered cloths
over their shoulders, sprsadini,' the ends wide ont with their arms, and in this manner
with an up.and down movement, toes turning in and out they moved slowly along the
verandah One of the little ^:irls wore a massive Chinese ^ohi buckle to her waist-belt,
with circular ear-rin<is of the same metal and three rings of the kima shell on each
arm. Here as at Tringfius I f^aw women wearing as many as four of these bracelets on
their arms. I stayed at these festivities till past midniiiht whenl retired, but, not before
the women had made an offer to sing songs in my lionoui' (berpantnn), if I would stay,
but having a long march before me on the morrow J was obliged to refnse.
I found the Bnkar Jjyaks ver}' sliy auii reserved as to their origin in fact I could
Tradiiion ua u>
extract little froui the people theni.selves, the folhnvinji is principally from
the ..liiiin of the Malay sources, my informauis however assuring mi; that it had been
Bukar Draks.
obtained from the Dyaks themselves.
Jdany years ago an ancestor of the Serin Dyaks an Orang Kaya or llajah named Bi
Sui went to Java to a place called Teluk Siali near Saniaiang to pay his asil or tax, Serin
in those days paying tribute to Java. On hi^ return when about half way across the sea
which intervened between the two islands, he observed two peisons a man and a woman
floating iu the water, he rescued them, and broughi iheni lo Sarawak. Being ignorantof their
langiuige he was unable to discover their names or country, he however settled them near
the head of the Samarabau river at a place called Pinauu ]\Iira giviuy; them the name of
Si iluntung. Bi Sui as he :]'e.w older sent these waifs of tljf ocean to pay his tribute for
him in Java, anii when the children and descendants of tiieso Si Muntnngs had increased
a.n<i multiplied they moved to Bukar. Hitherto they had lived near Serin at a river to
which they had given tlie name <f Si i\luMtnng. The first settlement of these Si Muntungs
at Bukar was on thesuuiniit of (Junong Ulntni and from this tliey spread to their jiresent
settlements. All the Bukar Orang Ivayas and I'eugaras except the Panglima of Muugo
Balii are from Serin, as the >i Muntun^s having- no chiefs were .sitpplied from the Serins.
After liiis when the SiU'awak people lived at Snugei Buah near Santubong under a Datu
and his wife, (i)ermasuri) there came a large ship from I'egu whose crew attacked and
defeated the people, destroyed the place, and killed the Datu. The Avife escaped, and
when she baw the ruin and devastation which these-iieojile had brought on her and her
country, she arrayed herself in male attire, eiuercil her sampan alone, boarded the Fegu
vessel, and amoking cleared the sliip carryin>i all heibre her. It is said siie scooped out
the eyes of the slain, which report sa\s arc now iu the pos.seision of the descendants of
Haji .\iyah of Kuchiug who inherited them from their ancestors. The Pegu ship had been
87
amoked at the mouth of the Santulioug river, and her crew returning on board ship plead-
ing for mercy, the Datu's wife oriiered the vessel to ,be taken to Sungei Buah. Here the-
Pegu people settled and amalgamated with the Sarawak villagers, and I am assured that
in former times beards and whiskers such as are now seen among the Bukar Dyaks were
not uncommon among the Malaya of Sarawak. The majority of the Pegu people went to-
the Sumarahan nd settled in the midst of tlie Si Muntuuga, who having been but slightly
crossed- with other natives the strain shows more plainly and accounts for the whiskers-
and beardi of the HuUars, though this peculiarity is yeiirly becoming leas percicvable, in
fact even so late as the. European occupation of the country, the falling off in numbers of those
Dyaks who could boast these hairy appendages is clearly perceivable. At a later period
some Dynks from Senankan Tumongin the Sadon^ district emig ated, and settled amongst
the Bukars at Lanchang.
I now bade farewell to these Bukar Dyaks and started for Paingkalau Eucla on the-
Bintang stream, the road being over an undulated country, but, very much over grown
;
I estimate the distance at about two miles. On the march the Dyaks told me that a China-
man visits the tribe at reijular intervals for trading purposes, though he is not the only
one who visits them especially at the time when the bird's nests are collected. The Paus^li-
ma assured me that the tribe would gladly see a Chinaman permamently settled at the Pau-
kalan and they would willingly assist him in erecting a house and clearing hia ground.
It is astonishing how all the Land Dyaks lean towards the Chinese, and how strong is.
their antipathy to the Malay, though when this feeling is sifted it is easily accounted for..
The Mal>y visiting the J)yaks brings almost nothing with him and his sole aim and ob-
ject is to get all he can out of the Dyaks, swindling them for literally nothing, and fi-eely
usinji the names of the Government and Datus to bear him out in his petty schemes of
extortion, while be treats the people witll the utmost contempt, continually taunting them
with their inferiority. This is carried on to a greater extent than is genei-ally known. L
recollect at Serin being told by the Dyaks that some Malays who had been at Terbut,
had simply lived on the "people even lire-wood and water liaviug to be supplied gratis to
these loafers by the \anfortunate people, and yet although I was in the house I could not
get the Dyaks to complain. I could multiply these cases if necessary, ray experience-
extending from Gurabang to Sentah.
The Chinese act differently there is not the slightest doubt but that in their trading
transactions they take the meanest ndvantage, using false weights and measures, and other-
wise imposing "on the people, bringing the full benefit of their superior intelligence to im-
pose on the Dyaks. Still they arrogate no superiority over the people with whom they
dwell or trade, and if the Dyak has to pay dearly for what he purchases, he still becomes
the proprietor of sometldng, inferior and expensive as it may be, while from the Malay he
a.s a rule obtains nothing. The Chinaman identifies himself with the Dyak, usually mar-
ries a Uyak girl, and interests himself in the affairs of the people in whose midst he may
find himself settled. The result of this course of proceeding on the part of the Chinese
has ended in their establishing themselves in almost every Land Dyak village. Their in-
fluence in this position unless carefully watched and cliecked cannot always be looked
upon as beneficial to the Dyaks, thoutih there is no doubt thnt the physical results of
inter-raarria"-e between thetwo races wonderfully improves ihe Land Dyak, as any one
can testify to who has compaied the Dyak of Upper Sarawak with that of Sambas.
I now continue my narrative.
We came to tbe pangkalan on the Bintang stream
which stream rises in Gunong Nauibi and falls into the Samarahan near the mouth of the
Sira branch. Havini'^ taken prahu at the pangkalan we found it hard work paddling our
way, the river being greatly
obstructed with fallen timber. iSome two hour.s of this kind
of work and we passed Pangkalnn
Magog where the Covernment revenue is received. At
this point the river deepens, and we made fair progress and shortly passed the entrance
to the I'yang stream which iiills into the Bintang on the left bank and at the source of
which hot springs are said to exist. A little below the Pyang is Lobok Panchur,
and about an hours paddling from
Pangkalan Magog brought ns to M<1ara Bintang when
we found ourselves fairly started on the Sumarahan river.
'^
88
About an hour's paddling and we passed the mouth of the Barn stream which falls
'
J
^ c
^^^^ *^' Samarahan on the right bank, and perhiipe another hour's
inr!h?nriv*r.
' boating and we brought up at Seruit a village of the Sibuyau
(
Sea ) Dyaks,
at the mouth of a small stream of the same name. At Seruit I halted
for a couple of hours and bade farewell to my Bukar friends exchanging their small boar
for u larger prahu, and dropped down stream for M^ara Tuang, the village of which name
we reached on the morning of the 9th September having paddled all night. Meafa
Tuang as its name denotes is the entrance to a stream which rises in Gunoug Sebornu.
A considerable number of Malays are settled here, and in the vicinity, and the karapoug
which may be said to extend to both banks of the river is very extensive. There are no
less than six Chinese traders in this village whose shops I found very fairly stored with
gooda. The soil in the Samarahan district is superior to any I have met with in the course
of my trip, and I am surprised that so little has been done here in agriculture, there are
numerous small Malay fruit jjlantations, with clearings for paddy, but, no systematic
planting of produce has been commenced here by Chinese or others, and this is the more
to be regretted as the soil would well repay cultivation. Being closely pressed for time
I made but a short stay at M<ira Tuang my destination bein<: Sentah on Gunong Seboran,
and to reach this tribe we first ascended the Tuang paddling slowly for an hour <^>r
two till we entered the Undap stream which rising in Seboran falls into the Tuang.
Another hour's paddling and we arrived at Pangkalan Petti where the Sentah Dyaks
deliver tlieir revenue to Government, there is another landing-place which is generally
used by the Dyaks nearer the village, hut, we did not take advantage of it, the road
thence to Sentah being said not to he good. Two hours walk and we came to Sentah village.
the ascent up to which on Gunong Teboran about 600 feet in height is pretty steep.
The tribe which is called Sentah by Malays and Europeans, Si Buran by its own
people and Biota by the Dyaks of the western branch was at one time
and n-i'De^of>enuir
One of the greatest of the Land Dyak communities. Tbeiv country
was ravaged and the village destroyed on two diflferent occasions by Sea
Dyaks once under Seriff Sahib and again under the .Datu Haji, when these poor Dyaks
fluifered severely, and small-pox in 1853 and cholera in 1857 nearly completed the work
of extermination. Sentah now consists of three torn poks Itanibye, Kyah, and Tabak, the
Settlement of Kuap beiu<i but a palaman, though having been so long fixed on the same
spot it may now also be considered as a tompok. The tribe is under three Orang Kayas
two of whom Badan and Bangang are at Sentah and one Bitwid at Kuap. The Seutahs
paid revenue in 1873 on 96 lawaugs which at $3. $288.
The Sentahs are well off for paddy, and I am told they plant a fair number ofSago trees,
sufficient for home consumptiou though not for sale and domestic bees are also kept.
These Dyaks burn their dead of the higher class
;
the poor are wrapped in a mat and cast
out in the jungle though always in the same spot, where also the corpses are burnt.
Having no sexton here or at Kuap the relatives of the dead take on themselves this func-
tion, but, the duty does not appear to be popular. The village is far from clean^ and
many of the houses are sadly out ofrejiair. A custom prevails liere of carrying the batangs
and bamboos which constitute the road immediately under the houses and verandah's, thus
laying the unwary traveller open to receiving slops and refuse on bis head through the
lantis above, besides keeping the path always dirty. The houses here are built with a
verandah at the back and front, the former about 12 feet broad is enclosed with a bamboo
fence. The roof is raised at the back to aff"ord light and ventilation in the Laud Dyak
fashion, while in front the roof slopes down to cover the verandah. The front verandah
about 18 feet broad resting on a fence of bamboo appears to be little or never used, the
paddy drying and domestic duties being carried on at the back.. The rooms are fairly
clean, but, the people seem poor for J noticed few articles of Dyak luxury, and in this
respect contrasted very unfavourably with the Bukars.
The river generally known as the Sentah >vhere the diamonds are found, here bears
the name of the Simbo. It has two branches or sources, one rises in Gunong beboran and
is called Yandan, the other rising in Staang is known from its source to its mouth as
89
Siniho. I had little or uo opportunity to eiaraiue thid village, being greatly pressed
fur time. I am told tliat the Seutali
and preserve in a box in one of fclje
fur time. I am told tliat tlie Sentahs have a guna or charm or idol which They value'highly
peaks of Seborau, report says they refuse to show it
.
It was at the village 6f Sentali that I succeeded with great difficulty in procuring two
bulbs of the Sekedip flower, so highly prized and venerated by all the
ihe liungaSekedip.
j^and Dyak tribes I had visited, so niucli so tiiat I coul.l never induce
tiiem to part with even u single root. This flower has been so fully described by Low in his
work on Sarawak (See Appendix A.) that I shall only conflne myself here to saying that
the plant growi to a height of about 18 inches, the leaves being arranged as with those of
the arum, light green in colour and deeply ribbed in the direction of their length, and
what are called hastate oha[)ed, but, short and very, broad, the length and breadth being^
about equal. The blossom is white and shaped like that of a hyacinth with six petals,
the tops of the stamens being reddish yellow. The flowers form a buni'h at the end of a
long stalk about a foot in length. I could obtain no explanation from the Dyaks as to the
origin of their veneration for this flower. It is planted with their paddy, and when the
cn.p i.s gathered, the plant is dug up and the bulb preserved till again required. All that
the Dyaks could say was that this had l)en their custom from time immemorial. I found
the Sekedip planted near the villages with another flower called the [)eningat generally in
conjunction with a clump of yellow bamboo, and this appeared to be invariably a place of
offering.
On the lOtli of September, I struck out for palanian Kuap : descending Seboi-an the
path was steep and very much over-grown, but, the track over the level
^"I'he Senuh^tribe"
ground below was good though some of the bridges were out of repair.
The latter part of the road w;is in thorough good order, and I estimate
that
2^ hour's walking brought me to Kuap. At this village called Bu-Kuab by tlie Dyaks
a missionary an ordained clergyman of the church of England has taken up his quarters, a
neat little church has been erected, and nearly the whole of the inhabitants who number '.20
lawangs as well as many of the Seutah villages have embraced Christianity. The Orang
Kaya liitwid an old man is almost useless from stupjdity. The village though of the
ordinary Laud Dyak type is clean and perhaps in better order than most of the other
Dyak settlements. At the same time it is much to be regretted that the Mission did not
commence their efforts at conversiou amongst some of the wealthier and more influeutial
tribes such as the Sentahs, Serins or Bukars. I believe they would have been cordially
welcomed, and there would have been better material to work on, than can be found in a
tribe who from various causes may almost be considered as effete, and who are decidedly
wanting in vitality and energy. One of the results of the conversion to Christianity of
these Dyaks has been that among the heathen portion of the community, the younger
members impregnated with more liberal ideas refuse to depend upou birds and omens in
carrying out their agricultural pursuits, taking instead the first favourable opportunity.
They are therefore in opposition to the old men and chiefs who of course insist on follow-
ing in the footsteps of their fore-fathers, and whose la ith and belief iu the ancient and
traditional customs of their tribe are not to be shaken.
Having enjoyed for the night the kind hospitality of the clergyman in charge, I left
Kuap on the morning of the 11th September and walked to the landing-place on the
Kuap river, where taking prahu I descended the stream to Si Mungo a Malay village.
Two or three hours walk hence over an abandoned road which might be kept iu repair
at a trifling expense, and thus connect the Kuap river with Kuching and I emerged at
Batn Kinian and ended my trip among the Land Dyaks which had extended over 48
days, during 44 of which I had not seen or held communicatiou with any European, and
fe\> Malays or Chinese.
90
APPENDIX A.
"
Tb' Bunfra Si Kucli]i aw it in oallcd by tin.' Byaks of tlie S;)m,licrn Tjrauoli of tlio Siirawat river

iiuil auiougst whom it ie held in the gruaU'st cBteeiii, tlunigh kuowu I believe l'> all tin- tribes, is the

])laut descrilied by botiiiiiste aB the Pa.ncratiiiui AiiiboiiieKe or Eurj-cles coronata. a nativt? of the
"
Moluccas and other islands to the Eastward, bur, as far as at present known, a stranger to the flora
"
of Borneo, in the Westward part of which the order Aniaryllideoe. to which it belongs, is only
"
represented by one spooieR of Crinnm. which J8 found in the ninddy banks of rivers. By the
"
Si-ljo6yoh Sea Dyaks. this plant ir ciilhi'd Si-Keiiyang. By the Dyaks of the Southern branch of
"
the Sarawak river, the pjots of thib bulbous plant are preserved with jealous care, being always
*
taken up when the jjaddy is ripe, and pi-(?sen-ed amongst it in the granai'ies to be planted again
"
with the seed-paddy in the following season. It bears a beautiful crown .of white and fragrant
"
flowers, which rise about a foot above the Imll) : the onlj' plant which I saw in a flowering state was
"
at Sennah. and no consideration would induce the owner to part with it.
"
These and other Dyaks assert that the paddy will not grow unless a i)lant of the Si-Kudip be
*
in the field, and on being asked respecting its origin they answered that Tuppa gave it to mankind
"
with the paddy, and requested tbeui to take care of it, which they now do. The plant I saw in
*
flower at Sennah, had a bamboo altar erected over it. on which were several offerings, consisting of
""
food, wa.ter. &c.
'
I think there can be little doubt that the plant has been brotight with the Dyaks from the country
""
whence they first emigrated to Borneo, and as it is not at present known to be an inhabitant of any
"
country West of the island, it would follow that the people came from the Eastward, perhaps from
"
the opposite island of Celebes ; but conclusions of this nature cannot be drawn until the habitat, of
"
the plant be better ascertained. Should it be found to be held in the same veneration amongst the
"
Kyan tribes, and the wild inhabitants of Celebes, and the Arafouras of the different islands be
"
better known, the fact of this plant having been can-ied Westward may be of considei-able import-
*'
ance. in setting at rest the long agitated question regarding the direction in which the tide of
"
population in the Eastern Islands flowed. That this Island was peopled originally from the East-
"
ward is I think to be deduced from the relative positions of the tribes : the Kyans the most sb-ong
*"'
and powerful, occupying the Eastern-coast, having driven the Sea Dyaks, the descendants of former
"'
emigrants, to the Westward, who had i^revioush- forced the Land Dyaks, the first emigrants to the
'
island to retreat before them in the same manner.
Low.
" Suraival: its inlidbitaid)! and jirochictlnns
"^
Pages 273-75.
In acknowledging the receipt of one of the bulbs of the Sikedip Mr. Low writes mo under date.
Lahuan {)th Febnianj, lS7t).
"The plant is the Euryclee coronata as it is called by botanists,
_
the plant fMrmerly bove the
'
botanical name of Pancratium Amboineuse from which I infer that it must have been found -wittbtr
*
^<^^^
''
in the Moluccas. I have nevei- seen it in any of my travels in a wild state, nor have I observed drlt KArZ
""
it is venerated amongst any other Dyaks who I have visited.
91
APPENDIX B.
I am 111(161)60(1 to tlie BevA. F. W. Abe of the Sarawak Mission for the following list of pure Land
Dyak words, us well as for the form of incantation in use among the beruri or priests.
Sentah Dialect.
A1)U',
Physically able,
To ai;i;ept to take,

f
to walk,
To ijo { .
'
^
1 to go,
To come.
Ago or have, sign of the )
perfect tense,
)
Shall sign of the fut\ire
tense.
All,
Angry,
Rage,
To tell, to say.
Appearance of things.
Do. of persons,
Do. of face.
To arrange.
To ascend, to go home,
A person,
To sleep.
To sleep soundly,
To awake.
Ashamed.
To throw
To bite.
To beat.
White..
To count,
Eight,
Ten,
To dance,
I llCdisease^
Leprosv,
Blood,
Die, death.
To sit down.
Iway,
Skifm. Abeo (tree), Biinyich.
Sliiaouuch. Do. (domestic), .. Nyownii.
Mit. Huney, Jiih-buuyich.
Odih. Wood, Forest, Tarun.
Poniih. To blow, Poch.
Menog. To blot out, Ngutoah.
Moch
-^
^^^' -^'"'^
Brother, Madich.
Father,
'
Sama.
i'
Mother, Sindo.
PSrOg-Pgrog. Will (you), Ea-iin.
Boji. To boil, Tanok.
Tuas. Head, Obak.

'
Da-an. Hair,
Obok.
Mun Foot, Kojah.
Each. Eye, Beiuch.
Eilon. Ear, Kojit.
Mishon. . Mouth, BobaJi.
Maiid Teeth, Jipoch...
Na-iln. Tongue,' Jurah.
Bo-OS Finger, Trinyuh.
Bo-os roro. Arm, Bireang.
Burach. Thigb, Pii-och.
Muugoch. Black,
'
Singot.
Taran. Blue and Green, Barom.
K6-ut. Yellow, Sia.
Mukong. Grey, Apak.
Budah. Bed,
'
Bireh.
Niap. One, Ni.
Mai. Nine, Pri-i.
Simong. To cut, Kapog.
Berejang. Dark, Karom.
Berandam. Fever, Sungoh.
)Supach Bmall-gox, Teboroh.
Deivah. DysenWy, Tiiki-Deiyah.
Kubfis. To drftik, Nok.
Gnni. Enough, Eaput.
The Land Dyuks have a kind of Hindu Triraurti.viz :

Tapsv or Yung. The Preserver. (Vishnu or Dewa-<lewa oftho liindus).

JirougBramti, The Creator. (Brama of the Hindus).
TriynhKamang. The De.stroyer. (Shiba of the Hindus).
The beruri or prie.sls make use of the following incantation iu a form of doctoring;
called Pinyah which is cunnacted with sacrifices to Triyuh Kamangthe evil one.
Yalj Tapa adi Yan;; adi Jiroug-Brama
O. 'J apa who is Yang the Preserver who is Jirong-Brama the Creator
bodah seinangih-i mari ka anin-i ka ramin-i ka ,
le*', his s'.iul coiue back to his room to his house to
amok-i ka ])utong-i so abml so pomech-i
his bed to his clothes from darkneris from his place of devils
so duuuk guamurauor
from hidinij in his fig-tree
1st.
2nd.
3rd.
92
APPENDIX C.
Tliu following is f.s;tr(".ted from the Sarawak Gazette of the 1.7th Auguat, 1S75.
Kuching 12th July, ISTii.
The following Buggestions with reference to the Land Djakt; and the rovenue paid by them, m:r.
perhaps be worthy of Tonr Highness' consideration, they are the result of my trip last year amongst
this people, and are now laid before you with a view to benefitting the iiatives and at the same time
increasing the revenue.
The crcmption tax is at present paid only by the married people, or by the
"
lawang" as iti-i
called ; if judiciously introduced a new regulation might compel every able-bodied man to pay, iLt;
bachelors are iu fact in a better position to pay revenu than the married men.
Again with the liix itself, if the Government would in future receive no casli payments oii il.i"
account, and insist that the revenue be paid in paddy . instead of rice, the. rate might l)e raised to i'
paesuB of paddy per
"
lawang" against 3 passus of rice as at present, a change the Dyaks could iif
:
object to as it would save them the trouble of cleaning the grain.
If the paddy were delivered at some central station up river, the population would be saved t In-
heavy transit, and it might become a question for future consideration if another passu of paddy ]ie:
'
lawang
"
might not bi' imposed in lieu of the transit, making in all 10 passus.
The paddy accruing from the different Dyak tribes as exemption tas. might be delivered at torn..
station as central as possible to both branchts of the Sarawak river, as for instancs; Ledah Tanah oi
Belida. The Government on receiving the paddy Cvould by cleaning it with a cheap, common machine,
obtain a superior quality of rice, which might bi; sold on the spot at a vorj' remunerative rate; br.: i:
would be better if Government received paddy, which is always saleable, and can be stoi-ed with'-is;
loss for any length of timti.
In cariying out the above arrangement it would be nccessajy io incur an outlay in th^ iirs;
instance for buildings and godowns, nor do 1 think the scheme could succeed without Euro])e:in
supervision; the leaving the introduction and working out of these changes in the hands of Mal:!y;i
would lead to many abuses.
The European Officer in charge might with a little aBsistancc in connecting his station with the
mining district carry on both duties.
Weiiiiag'r the Governmenl station was creeled Chinese and Malay kampongs wtnild spring i:;i,
and tlius add to the material prosj)erity of the district.
As regards the present rate of payment of exemption tax by tun
"
hiwangB." I am of opinion that
Government is greatly defrauded of revenue from want of proper supervision, no ccubub has l.ieen
taken for years past, and the number of
"
lawangs," paying revenue remains at a fixed figure, neither
increasing t.>r decreasing.
I have the honor to be
Eajiih.
Tour obedient Servant,
jr"
DENISON,
^l^^\
Resident Upper Sarav;};.>:
93
To
LI. H. The Rajuh of Sarawak',
8(iratL-ak.
MemorfUKluni on rlie Liuid ReTCiuK; of Upper Sarawak.
The
"
Oraiitj; Bnjanjrs^' appear to lie exenipr, from the paymeut of the revenue on the
:.'rouiul that they are liable to he called out on Goveriiiaeut service, in former times on the
oci-asion of -.var and later on any duties Governmont mis^lit think fit to iinposf", such as fell-
inu: jiiiigle, ciearinj^ roads ic. &c. The latter duties are now of very rare ocourrence, some
triln's have Hot been called out for the last ten or (iftoen years, and irreat difficulty is even
(!X|u;rionced with those called on, in iicrsua(iin<r them to perform Government duties without
almost full remuneration, this afjplies particularly to those districts in the vicinity
>i' the mining districts.
The subf^titution of ati exoinprion tax on the unmarried men in lien of Government
duties cannot therefore 1)6 considered a grievance, as Government is simply resuming
.it rijrhts.
The payment of
^
passug of paddy in place bf the present revenue ot H passiis
ol rice would be no iij^-ease on the tax and would not press "u the people 9 passUs of
!)a(ldy being but a fair equivalent hero of 3 passns rice before cleaning.
The Dyaks maintain that 2 jjassus ofpnddyis but the ecpiivalent of one passus
if rici.'. this is incorrect, for their paddy is not all first <'lass fpialityan.l the above estimate
i.< ba:>ed on the average.
Acoonling to Dyak (.'ustoni. the men do not cleM'.i tltc paddy. thi\ whole labour there-
fore devolves on the v/omeu and .uirls, and wIipu a family consists ofiHily a husband, wife
:ind child, as is oi'ten the case, the toil falls heavy on the weaker members of the
c;;mm unity.
If paddy were substituted for rice as the exemption rax due to Government, the only
incrc;!se of labour would be (tarrying the extra weight of paddy as against rice to the
pangkalau from the village, but this would be the duty of the men, and as a Dyak can
and does carry 3 pafsus of grain in one load, the change would make little
dirtcronce.
Tiie 1 passu extra for permitting the tax to be paid up river, would be hailed n
a boon by all Dyak tribes, except perhaps those of .'Sumban and Tabiab on the Souther
and Gumbang and Tringus on the Western branch of tlie Sarawak river. With thes
would be hailed as
lern
, _ ., _ _ __ . ose
tribes .-jituated as they arc, on the head waters of the river, some specuil arrangement
miirht be come to.
With reference to the revenue to be paid by the unmarried men, tiie 'hujangs"'
having no wives or chililren to assist them, one half of the tax claimed from the "'laki
bini," or say 5 passus (to include the delivery of the paddy) would suffice.
A clear ycar'rf notice should be given to the mimarried men that it was the intention
<d"the Government to resume its revenue in substitution of service as hitherto; the "laki
bini"' might pay in [)addy next year.
94
To illustrate tlic .xlvaulage MCc.niiiiK to Govcrmeiit bv the substitution of a revcnan
paid m paddy for tliat of rice. I would take as an example the village of .Niixrhi
which
uow pay ou
277 lawaugs at :) ]iassus of rice=8ol ])assus
'""
'
Substitute for this
277 lawaiigs nt 10 passus of ])addy=2770
passus.
The <S;il
i.assus of rico are uowl)oiu<r received liy Govcnimeut as revenue at*l per passu
Willie It. can ouly be sold at nr> cents =^/)40. 15.
Deduct loss, waste, de[)reciation &c., Bay 8 passus ])cr koyan,
80 passus at Ca cents,

ry2.
00
Ssinglu revenue in ]S7o, if paid in rice ... ...
... "4;488.ir)
The 2770 pa.ssas of paddy would realize at 30 ceut.- ...
... $8ol.00
Parldy will always sell at abt.vo pric.' in Kuc.hihg the jircsent
rate is :-5o cents and
little offering, and there is no lo.ss on jmiidy a.=* on rice.
Thi::^ isbut the gain ou one village, I. leave ir to Your Highness tojudge what would be
the toul gain if all the trilies on rhe western and .southern branches paid'"in paddv.
Ill the above calculation the bacjlielors are nor included, l)ut estimating the nunibcr
of '-bujaugs"'' iU. the same ligure as the "hiwang.s," wliich will probably befonnd below
the average, we shall have in addition to the above.
277 "'bujiing.x" ar r>
i)a>.<nR of paddy, being half'tho tax jiaid by the "laki bini," or
say
1:38.")
passus of paddy at HO cents
..."
... ...
$ 415.00
.idd tax paid by the "laki bini" in paddy a.? alu)v<'.
...
,. Sol.OO
lleveiiue to he iiai<i by Singhi village ...
... ^12-iG.OO
A.~- against revenue paid at jires.enr ... ... $488.1/)
If the whole of the up-river Dyak "bujaiigs'' were (o jiay 5 passus of n&ddy, the
inc.^'ea.'^c on the revenue would be immense.
Tiie Siibstitntion of a paddy tax for lliat of ricte and money would be a great advautajje
to the I>and ])yak district. Tlie Dyaks would be forced to plant and cultivation would
eitend.
^'ery few of the Land Dyak tribe* now pay ilieir entire revenue in rice, they eke out
thei" rice M'itli money ])ay:nenvs, and iliest; are I'aised by ueglecting their farms, and in
ougaging in any stray erniiloymenr, either in the way of .seeking .jungle produce, or working
in a desultory manner for Malays and (Jhinese. If any tribe posses.ses bird's-nests, they
invariably become more indolent, and the upshot, of all is that we find year after year,
short crops as the order of the day, and rice cultivation becoming less and less.
Manv Dyaks who marry, evade paying revenue when the exemption tax become due, by
puttiiif: away their wives and claimin<r immnnityou the ground of being bachelors. The
divorcing of their wive.'; is a vei'v trivial matter amonu:st the DyidvS, an unlucky omen or
a bad dream is a sufficient excuse, and in this way the Govcrnmeut is defrauded of Avhat
s fair and lawi'ul revenue.
tii- Anoiher practice coniuion among the Dyaks is for a married couple inhabiting a house
trc having a married child or children living with them to pay revenue only for one
95
*lawaiig.''' This is clearly jiii evasion of the tax, which acconlim; to (uistom. is not levied
on t.lie doorj but on the
"
lawani>/' and therefore embraces ail the married people in the
house.
Slumld the Government require rioo for its own use, or should it still bo deemed
necessary to clean a certain proportion ior sale, this might be dune without any expense, a*
a common machine similar to that in general use among tlie (Jhiuese, v.'ould turn out
;')()
passns of rice per diem, and it could bo worked by a couj.ile nt prisoners.
At the panic time I cannot help pointing out that Singapore rice can be purchased
almost if not quite as cheap as that of Sarawak, taking into consideration the superior
qnality and the time it can be kept, it being hard not soft like Dyak rice, while it has the
advantage of being packed in bags, and is therefore convenient for transport and storage.
_7in)ENlS0N.
Kuching, 12th July, 1875. ,
Assistant Resident [j])per Sarawak.
Sararvak Gazetta, IQth September, IST").
jSTOTIFICATION.
On and after the 7th Sei>tomber,
.1;>7.').
Tiie Dyak Revenue throughout Sarawak.
Proper, will be paid at the following rate per annum. Married man Paddy 8 pa.ssus, or
the equivalent in rice 3 passns or cash $3.
JBachelors over the age of 1(5, and rich widows, one half the amount.
By order,W. M. CROCKED,
Adinr/
ResidenL
96