Basic Pattern For Sari Blouse

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The key takeaways from the passage are how to draft a basic sari blouse pattern with waistline darts and the significance of having a basic bodice pattern.

The measurements needed to draft the basic sari blouse pattern are shoulder measurement, armscye depth, front and back neck depths, bust circumference, waist circumference, bust point, and waist length.

The steps to draft the front part are: 1) square down center front and shoulder lines, 2) square armscye depth, 3) draw front armhole shape, 4) square waist line, 5) mark dart, 6) join armscye depth and waist lines, 7) draw front neckline, and 8) cut out pattern.

Basic Pattern for Sari Blouse

This sari blouse pattern is with waistline darts. As it is named, it is the most basic
pattern for a sari blouse. Hence, the pattern is without waistband or any other cuts.
Even though this pattern looks similar to the basic sloper, it is slightly different in its fit.
Lets start with the measurements.
Measurements Needed:
Shoulder Measurement:
Taken between two shoulder ends or nape of the neck to one shoulder end and doubled.
When neckline depth is more than 1/6th of the bust round, shoulder measurement is
taken about 3cm to 4cm less on each side.

Armscye Depth or Armhole Depth:
Taken by direct measurement or calculated from the Bust Circumference.
It is the best to measure the armscye depth directly on the body for accurate
measurement. It is measured straight from the shoulder end to about an inch below
the armpit. Armscye depth varies from 13cm 18cm (or about 5 inch 7 inch) in the
increasing order from the small sizes to the larger ones.
Armscye depth can be calculated from the bust circumference in many of the ways by
different dressmakers for different outfits.
For a sari blouse, following calculation is found to be the best.
1/6
th
of Bust Circumference

Front & Back Neck depths:
Taken directly on the body or taken from an existing garment.
Bust Circumference:
Taken around the fullest part of the bust.
Waist Circumference:
Taken around the navel point.
Bust Point or Pivot Point:
Taken straight down the shoulder to the bust point.
Waist Length:
Taken from the nape of the neck to the desired length of the blouse.
Drafting & Cutting Instructions For A Basic Blouse
With Waistline Dart
Front Part:

Basic Pattern for Sari Blouse With Waist Line Darts Front Bodice
1. Square down centre front line and shoulder lines.
Centre Front Line: Waist Length + 1cm for seam allowance at shoulder + 1cm seam
allowance at waist
Shoulder Line: of Shoulder Measurement + 1cm seam allowance
Shoulder can be taken square or sloped. This depends up on the garment to be made.
Since a sari blouse is usually of wide neck, no slope is suggested here.
2. Square Armscye Depth down the Centre Front Line. Take 1/4
th
of the Bust
Circumference + 1cm ease + 5cm seam allowance, horizontally. This wide seam
allowance is useful for alterations.
3. Drop a straight line from shoulder end on to Armscye Depth. Draw front armhole
shape about 1cm inward this dropped line.
4. Square Waist Line at the bottom of the Centre Front Line. Take 1/4
th
Waist
Circumference + 5cm dart allowance + 5cm seam allowance. Give a rounded shape
at the sides.
5. Dart: Take 1/12
th
of the Bust Circumference + 2.5cm at waist from the centre
front. Draw an upright line. Measure a point at about 3cm from the waist. (Note: This
will be the starting point of the waist, exactly under the bust part.)

Waist Band Part Highlighted
Mark a Dart of about 5cm here taking 2.5cm on each side. Measure and mark Bust Point
on the same line from the shoulder. Dart point will be about 2cm below the bust point.
Draw a dart as shown.
6. Join the end points of Armscye Depth line and waist line.
7. Draw desired front neckline.
8. Cut along the highlighted outline excluding the darts as shown.
Back Part:


Basic Pattern for Sari Blouse With Waist Line Darts Back Bodice
1. Square down centre back line and shoulder lines.
Centre Back Line: Waist Length + 1 cm for seam allowance at shoulder + 1cm seam
allowance at waist
Shoulder Line: of Shoulder Measurement + 1cm seam allowance
2. Square Armscye Depth down the Centre Back Line. Take 1/4
th
of the Bust
Circumference + 1cm ease + 5cm seam allowance, horizontally. This wide seam
allowance is useful for alterations.
3. Drop a straight line from shoulder end on to Armscye Depth. Draw back armhole
shape on this dropped line.
4. Square Waist Line at the bottom of the Centre Back Line. Take 1/4
th
Waist
Circumference + 2cm dart allowance + 5cm seam allowance. You may need to shape the
waistline a little to match it to the front.

5. Dart: Mark a dart on the waist line at 1/12
th
of Bust Circumference + 1cm.
This dart is about 7cm in length with 1cm width on each side.
6. Join the end points of Armscye Depth line and waist line.
7. Draw desired back neckline. This is usually kept deeper than that in the
front.
8. Cut along the highlighted outline as shown.
Fastening:
Fastening can be given in the centre front or in the centre back. Add 1cm seam
allowance for the attachment of hook and eye fastening strips.
We are done!
Well, I must mention the uses of this basic pattern.
Significance of Having A Basic Bodice Pattern
1. This is the basic and the simplest pattern for sari blouse excluding waist bands
and extra darts. Construction is simple for the beginners.
2. Any style variation in the neckline can be tried on this pattern. For high necks,
ashoulder slope is given.
3. This pattern serves as a base for all the types of princess lines. For details on
princess lines, click here. Just exclude the darts without a need to press the pattern
as given here.

4. Easy to add length.
5. Back or front fastening styles are easily adapted. This pattern is excluding the
seam allowance for fastening. 1cm seam allowance is to be added at the centre (front
or back) to give an opening.
So, did you find this DIY post useful? Your valuable feedback and suggestions help me
to understand your requirements :) After all, Tantu is for you!
Expect a detailed post on adapting this basic sari blouse pattern into a princess line
pattern soon.
Let me sign off for now!

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