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Spain - The Basque Country 2007

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This document provides information about Etxaburu Tower, including a table of contents for a guide to the Basque Country. The introduction was written by Ana Aguirre Zurutuza, the Councillor for Industry, Trade and Tourism of the Basque Government. It discusses the rich history, culture, and traditions of the Basque Country and encourages visitors to enjoy its food, nature, cities, and festivals. The table of contents outlines sections on the three territories of the Basque Country - Álava, Bizkaia, and Gipuzkoa - as well as practical travel information.

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Spain - The Basque Country 2007

Uploaded by

Alexandra Geangu
767 views70 pages
This document provides information about Etxaburu Tower, including a table of contents for a guide to the Basque Country. The introduction was written by Ana Aguirre Zurutuza, the Councillor for Industry, Trade and Tourism of the Basque Government. It discusses the rich history, culture, and traditions of the Basque Country and encourages visitors to enjoy its food, nature, cities, and festivals. The table of contents outlines sections on the three territories of the Basque Country - Álava, Bizkaia, and Gipuzkoa - as well as practical travel information.

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This document provides information about Etxaburu Tower, including a table of contents for a guide to the Basque Country. The introduction was written by Ana Aguirre Zurutuza, the Councillor for Industry, Trade and Tourism of the Basque Government. It discusses the rich history, culture, and traditions of the Basque Country and encourages visitors to enjoy its food, nature, cities, and festivals. The table of contents outlines sections on the three territories of the Basque Country - Álava, Bizkaia, and Gipuzkoa - as well as practical travel information.

Copyright:

© All Rights Reserved
Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
Download as pdf or txt
767 views70 pages

Spain - The Basque Country 2007

Uploaded by

Alexandra Geangu
This document provides information about Etxaburu Tower, including a table of contents for a guide to the Basque Country. The introduction was written by Ana Aguirre Zurutuza, the Councillor for Industry, Trade and Tourism of the Basque Government. It discusses the rich history, culture, and traditions of the Basque Country and encourages visitors to enjoy its food, nature, cities, and festivals. The table of contents outlines sections on the three territories of the Basque Country - Álava, Bizkaia, and Gipuzkoa - as well as practical travel information.

Copyright:

© All Rights Reserved
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Etxaburu Tower

DEPARTAMENTO DE INDUSTRIA,
COMERCIO Y TURISMO
INDUSTRIA, MERKATARITZA
ETA TURISMO SAILA
The partial and/or full copying of the text, maps or pictures included in this guide
without the prior authorization of this Department, and of its authors, is prohibited.
1st EDITION : JANUARY 2001
7th EDITION: NOVEMBER 2006
PUBLISHED BY: Eusko
Jaurlaritzaren Argitalpen
Zerbitzu Nagusia / Servicio
Central de Publicaciones del
Gobierno Vasco.
DESIGNED AND PRODUCED:
ACC Comunicacin
TEXTS WRITTEN BY:
Mikel G. Gurpegui
MAPS:
ACC Comunicacin
PHOTOGRAPHS BY:
Pello Lpez, Archivo ACC Comunicacin,
Agustn Sagasti, Gonzalo M. Azumendi,
Javier Carballo, Mikel Arrazola, Santiago
Yaniz, Daro Garrido, Lurrak, Gema
Arrugaeta, Bodegas Ysios.
PRINTED BY:
---
D.L.:
---
Data updated to September 2006
Administration of the Autonomous
Community of the Basque Country,
Department of Industry, Commerce and
Tourism.
33
INTRODUCTION .................................Pag. 4
Road Map .................................................Pag. 6
A brief history ............................................Pag. 8
The Basque Country and art ........................Pag.12
Fiestas and traditions ...............................Pag. 16
The love of good food ...............................Pag. 22
A natural country .....................................Pag. 26
Theme Routes .........................................Pag. 32
LAVA-ARABA......................................... Pag. 36
BIZKAIA ..................................................Pag.48
GIPUZKOA...............................................Pag. 60
PRACTICAL INFORMATION .............Pag. 72
Map of Vitoria-Gasteiz ..............................Pag. 86
Map of Bilbao ..........................................Pag. 87
Map of Donostia-San Sebastin..................Pag. 88
CONTENTS
T HE B A S QUE COUNT RY
4
Ana Aguirre Zurutuza
Councillor for Industry, Trade and Tourism
of the Basque Government
The Basque Country, or Euskadi as it is known locally, is a
place of enormous vitality, a historical, cultural and
financial vitality resulting from a strong collective
sentiment and a considerable talent for individual initiative.
From the time when our ancestors portrayed their reality by
painting on the walls of the Altxerri, Ekain or Santimamie
caves, until Jose Mara Olazabals double triumph at the
Masters golf tournament in Augusta, this country has just
about seen it all: universal characters like Juan Sebastin Elcano, Simn
Bolivar, Ignacio de Loyola, founder of the Society of Jesus, creators and
artists such as Cristbal Balenciaga, a key figure of the French haute
couture, or the contemporary Chillida and Oteiza among
others. In addition to these people, the daily and
collective efforts of men and women in the fields and at
the sea, creating companies and working in them, has
given rise to a country with enormous entrepreneurial
wherewithal.
Tourism has always been a great tradition in the Basque
Country, where courts and royalty chose to spend their
summers, as did the select upper classes at the beginning
of the century.
This tourism has contributed to the development of traditional Basque
cuisine. The love of good food is a real culture in the Basque Country, as can
be seen at the market place, in homes, and in the over a thousand
gastronomic societies and clubs whose members meet to cook in keeping
with a rather peculiar tradition.
The Basque tendency to act collectively is historically represented by the
Casas de Juntas, where the locals would meet to take joint decisions, not
unlike an assembly. The best known of these is the Casa de Juntas de
Gernika, standing next to a hundred-year old oak tree that has now become a
ALL ROADS LEAD
TO THIS LITTLE
COUNTRY
5
BILBAO
VITORIA-GASTEIZ
B I Z K A I A
G I P U Z K OA
A L AVA
DONOSTIA
SAN SEBASTIAN
The coast between Zarautz and Getaria (Gipuzkoa)
tourist attraction for those wishing to know more about
the roots of Basque politics.
But we Basques also have a tendency towards
individualism as reflected in the thousands of little
neighbourhoods, hamlets and farmhouses dotted over
the mountains and plains, many of which now offer
accommodation (known as agroturismo) where the
visitor, in addition to finding that personal touch, can
also combine a pleasant rest in deep countryside with the practising of sports,
leisure, cultural and professional activities. Theres plenty to do from the Atlantic
coast, land of cider and txakoli, to the plains of the Rioja Alavesa with its
internationally famous wines.
Our bustling cities are a mixture of tradition and modernity. Proof of this are the
Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao and the Aquarium in Donostia-San Sebastin or
the old quarter of Vitoria-Gasteiz, home of the Basque
Government and Parliament, not to mention the Euskalduna,
Kursaal and Europa convention centres with their excellent
services for convention-holders, or the Museo Chillida-Leku,
with its collection of oeuvres by this artist of international fame.
This is a changing, comfortable place, easy to get around,
peaceful, carefully tended and perfect for taking a pleasant
walk or doing a bit of shopping.
You can do just about anything in the Basque Country: you can
go surfing, have a round of golf, watch the rural sport events, enjoy the fixed-
thwart rowing boat races or bullfights, bet on pelota games, go to the horse-racing
or to the casino. Then there are the jazz concerts, others by big orchestras or
choirs, or the exceptional museums and the countless local fiestas in which the
visitor can participate simply by deciding to do so.
These are some of the recipes to be found in the Basque Country, recipes I hope
you will enjoy with pleasure, and of which you are always the main ingredient.
Huesca
Burgos
Pamplona
Bayonne
Pau
Bilbao
Vitoria-Gasteiz
Donostia-
San Sebastin
Santander
Logroo
Len
Gijn
Oviedo
La Corua
Vigo
Biarritz
Errenteria
Antzuola
Capitales
Important towns
Villages
Smaller villages
Vitoria-Gasteiz
Bermeo
GE NE RAL I NF ORMAT I ON
BI-3732
BI-2704
BI-2122
Balneario de
Padres Palotinos
EMBALS
URRUN
R
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o
O
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B
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R
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K
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Embalse
de
el Juncal
R
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R
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K
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de
Ordunte
Rio
Ordunte
Embalse
de
Artziniega
R
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N
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R
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N
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Rio Inglares
Balneario
de Kutxo
R
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O
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R
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T
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Embalse de
Sobrn
R
io
O
m
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Embalse de
Puentelarra
Presa
Maroo
R
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E
B
R
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RIO
EBRO
R
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N
a
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r
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Rio
Altube
Pantano
Undurraga
R
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A
r
r
a
t
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a
R
io
Ib
a
rz
a
b
a
l
ISLA
Ra de
Cabo de Matxitxak
ISLA DE
AKETZE
ISLA DE VILLANO
Cabo Villano
Playa de Sopelana
Punta Galea
Ra de Bilbao
Punta Lucero
Sollube
648m.
S. Pelaio
452m.
San Juan de
Gaztelugatxe
Jata
601m.
Barrika
Butrn
Genekogorta
992m.
Andra Mari
Ntra. Sra.
de Unbe
Sta. Cruz
Arenaza
San Pedro de Abrisketa
Eretza
888m.
Ganeran
825m.
Mello
626m.
Alen
801m.
Trasmosomos 698m.
San Sebastin
C A N T A B R I A
Castro Urdiales
Virgen del
Buen Suceso
Pozalagua
Armaon
853m.
Ramales de la
Victoria
Covalanas
Cotobasero
829m.
Kolitza 882m.
Ntra. Sra. de la Encina
Santuario
Zalama
1341m.
Villasana de Mena
Dubaltza
693m.
Santa Lucia
Quincoces de Yuso
Perigaa
628m.
Ntra. Sra. de Etxaurren
BIZKAIA
Arando
943m.
Virgen de la Pea
La Antigua
Txarlazo
932m.
Eskutxi
1181m.
Mandoia
637m.
Untzeta
762m.
Santa Marina
Jesuri
750m.
San Justo
Baltzola
Ntra. Sra. de
Garrastatxu
Gorbeia
1481m.
Zigoitia
Berretn 1221m.
Mairuelegorreta
Valle de Zuia
Ntra. Sra. de Oro
Cruz de Ganalto
897m.
CONDADO DE T
Miranda de Ebro
S. Prudencio
Irua de Oca
Txulato
946m.
Virgen de
Oteros
1031m.
San Vitores
892m.
Busto
976m.
Las Go
Toloo
1263m.
S. Gins
L A R I O J A
San Vicente
de la Sonsierra
Haro
Briones
B U R G O S
Villalba de Losa
San Milln de
San Zadornil
San Sebastin
943m.
Calleros
S. Forneria
URKABUSTAIZ
Pea Risca
1007m.
Repiko
1190m.
Ntra. Sra. de Angosto
Batxikabo
1202m.
Cueto
1364m.
S
i
e
r
r
a
d
e
A
r k a m
o
Somo
902m.
PARQUE
NATURAL DE
VALDEREJO
PARQUE
NATURAL
DE
GORBEIA
RESERVA DE
BIOSFERA DE UR
Si e r r a d e
Gi bi j o
Belatxikieta
666m.
Salto de
Gujuli
Si e r r a Br a v a
d e Ba d a y a
Nacedero del Rio Nervin
Poblado Romano
de Irua
Mo n t e s
d
e
V
i t o
r i a
FORONDA
S
i
e
r
r
a
d
e
A
r
c
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n
a
Casa de Juntas
de Abellaneda
S
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a
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e
A
r
a
m
o
t
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Si e
de
Eskub
M
a
c
i
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o
d
e
l
G
o
r
b
e
i
a
Bayas
Montemayor
1104m.
S
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e
r
r
a
S
a
l
b
a
d
a
S
i
e
r
r
a
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O
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d
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n
t
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P
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a
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R
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o
Paso de
Subijana
Lern
1236m.
San Roke
A-3
A-3224
A
-2
1
2
4
N
- 2
4
0
B
I - 2
2
3
5
BI-631
B
I-3
1
0
1
B
I-3
1
0
1
B
I-2
1
2
1
BI-3123
BI-3123
BI-3213
B
I-3
7
5
1
B
I-3
1
4
8
BI-3
1
0
2 BI-3
7
2
6
B
I - 3
7
5
1
B
I-6
3
5
A-8 E-70 N-634
N
- 2
4
0
BI-635
B
I-2
5
4
3
B
I-2
5
4
3
BI-3524
BI-3513
A-3608
A
- 3
6
0
8
A-3610
A-3600
A-3600
N
-6
2
2
A-3604
N
-1
E-8
0
E-5
A-3302
A
-3
3
0
2
A
-3606
A-3302
A
-3
6
0
2
N-102
A
- 2
1
2
4
A
-3
1
0
2
A-2622
A-3122
BU
-741
A
- 2
1
2
4
A-3124
A-3126
A-3128
A
-3
2
0
2
A-3202
A
-124
A
- 1
2
4
A
-68
A
-1
2
4
A-3124
A-3312
A-2122
A
-3
3
1
0
A-3322
A-2622
A-3318
A-3316
A
-3
3
1
4
A
-3
3
1
4
A
-2
5
2
1
A
-6
2
4
A
-6
2
4
A
- 2
5
2
2
B
I-6
2
5
A
-625
A
-6
2
5
B
I - 2
5
2
2
A-3622
A
-3
6
3
2
A
-3
6
3
8
BI-625
A-3318
BI-
A
-624
A
-3
6
4
1
B
I-3
9
3
1
A-3618
B
I-3
6
4
1
A-8 E-70
BI-3
7
0
2
B
I-3
7
0
1
N
-634
B
I-2
6
0
4
B
I-3
6
2
1
B
I-3
6
3
1
BI-3632
B
I-3
6
3
1
BI-636
BI-636
A
-8
E-7
0
N-637
N-637
N
-6
3
4
B
I-6
3
1
B
I-6
3
1 BI-3741 BI-3704
B
I-2
7
0
4 B
I-3
7
0
9
BI-3707
N
-6
3
4
BI-6
3
7
B
I-6
3
4
BI-3721
B
I-2
1
2
0
BI-3108
BI-3151
BI-3151
B
I-2
1
5
3
BI-3101
BI-3
7
0
4
BI-3111
BI-3121
BI-634
A
-3
6
3
0
A
-624
BI-4
7
4
4
N
-6
3
9
N
-6
3
4
B
I-2
7
0
1
B
I-3
6
0
1
BI-3614
BI-3611
BI-3602
B
I-6
3
0
BI-6
3
6
BI-3636
B
I-3
6
3
5
A-2122
A
-2
6
2
5
A-2622
A
-2622
A-4318
A-4323
A
-2
6
2
5
A
-4
3
3
4
A-4337
A-4330
A
- 3
2
2
0
A
-2
6
2
5
BI-2625
A-3622
A
- 4
6
2
0
A-4619
A
-4618
A
-3
6
2
0
A
-2
6
0
4
BI-630
BI-3622
BI-3629
N
-6
2
9
B
I-2
6
1
7
BI-3131
BI-3794
N
-1
E-8
0
E-5
A-4105
A
-6
8
E
-8
0
4
A
-6
8
E
-8
0
4
A
-3
6
1
2
BI-2731
Villabuena de A
Sam
Peace
Labastida
Zambrana
Berantevilla
Trevio
Armin
RIBERA
BAJA
Comunin
Lantarn
Salinas de Aana/
Gesaltza-Aana
Pobes
RIBERA
ALTA
Nanclares de la Oca
Los Moros
Villanueva de
Valdegova
Zuatzu-Kuartango
Gopegui
Murga
Izarra
Amurrio
Ordua
Ayala /
Aiara
Artziniega
Llodio
Arespalditza
Okondo
Ubide
Zeanuri
Areatza
Artea
Orozko
Zeberio
Arrankudiaga
Arantzazu
Bedia
Zaratamo
Galdakao
Bilbao
Arrigorriaga
Ugao-
Miraballes
Arakaldo
Basauri
Lemoa
Alonsotegi
Barakaldo
Galdames
Gees
Gordexola
Zalla
Arcentales
Carranza
Lanestosa
Villaverde
de Trucios
Trucios-
Turtzioz
Balmaseda
Sopuerta
Valle de Trapaga-
Trapagaran
Muskiz
Abanto y
Cirvana-
Abanto
Zierbena
Zierbena
Santurtzi
Portugalete
Sestao
Getxo
Leioa
Sopelana
Urduliz
Berango
Gatika
Laukiz
Loiu
Erandio
Sondika
Gorliz
Lemoiz
Plentzia
Bakio
Maruri-Jatabe
Bermeo
Mundaka
Sukarrieta
Busturia
Meaka
Mungia
Gamiz-Fika
Derio
Zamudio
Lezama
Larrabetzu
Morga
Fruiz
Arrieta
Murueta
Forua
Errigoiti
Gernika-Lum
Muxika
M
Ib
Amorebie
Du
Maa
Dima
Igorre
Armintze
ROAD MAP OF THE
BASQUE AUTONOMOUS
COMMUNITY
Population..............................................2.128.801
Population density......................300,03 inhabit./km
2
Average age .....................................................39,8
Working population.....................................983.700
Life expectancy, men ........................................76,4
Life expectancy, women ....................................83,7
Birth rate .......................................................9,3 %
Death rate......................................................8,9 %
Area covered............................................7.089 km
2
Length of the coast .....................................252 kms
Maximum height (above sea level)...1.551 metres
No. of principal rivers...........................................19
Average annual temperature........................14,36 C
Average minimum temperature......................9,96 C
Average maximum temperature ...................19,23 C
MOTORWAY
DUAL CARRIAGEWAY
INTERESTING ROAD
MAIN ROAD
COUNTRY ROAD
LOCAL ROAD
OTHER ROADS
CASTLE
CHURCH
CAVE
PARADOR
SPA CENTRE
AIRPORT
PILGRIMS ROAD TO
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA
KEY TO THE
DIFFERENT SYMBOLS
A-3130
Embalse
de
Artikutza
Embalse
de
Aarbe
R
o
O
iartzu
n
R
o U
ru
m
ea
R

o
L
e
i
z
a
r
a
n
R

o
O
r
i
a
R
o
O
r
ia
R

o
O
r
i
a
Ro Arakil
Balneario de Zestona
R
i
o
D
e
b
a
R
i
o
D
e
b
a
Presa
de
Urkulu
R
i
o
D
e
b
a
Embalse
de
Albina
SE DE
NAGA
EMBALSE DE
ULLIBARRI
R
io
Z
ad
orra
Rio Barrundia
R
i
o
U
r
o
l
a
R
i
o
U
r
o
l
a
A
r
t
i
b
a
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A
r
tib
a
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R
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L
ea
R
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L
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a
o
O
k
a
d
a
Rio
Ega
R
IO
E
B
R
O
R
io
E
ga
R
io
Isk
iz
R

o

B
i
d
a
s
o
a
Presa
Atxola
Embalse
de
San
Antn
Cabo de Higuer
Playa de
Hendaya
Playa de La Concha
Playa de
Zarautz
Punta Izarri
Punta Izustarri
Punta Aitzandi
Playa de Saturrarn
Cabo Sta.
Katalina
Cabo Apikale
Cabo Ogoo
DE IZARO
Mundaka
o
G O L F O D E B I Z K A I A
Jaizkibel 545m.
Ntra. Sra.
de Guadalupe
Hendaya
FRANCIA
PARQUE NATURAL
AIAKO HARRIA
Adarra 816m.
Urepel
1049m.
Urdelar
853m.
Andatza 562m.
San Martzial
Landarbaso
PARQUE
NATURAL DE
PAGOETA
Otsabio
801m.
N. S. de Andatzarrate
Altxerri
PARQUE NATURAL
DE ARALAR
Intxurre
737m.
Ntra. Sra.
de Loinaz
Ntra. Sra. de Larraitz
Txindoki 1340m.
Intzartzu
789m.
Irumugarrieta 1393m.
Atxabal
693m.
Izazpe
972m.
Ntra. Sra. Antigua
Intsusburu
943m.
Loiola Santuario
Irimo
901m.
Aizkirri
PARQUE NATURAL
DE AIZKORRI
San Adrin
La Leze
Ntra. Sra. de Barria
(Monasterio)
Gebara-
Torre Etxea
S. Victor
Obi
Sta. Teodosia
Murube
1142m.
PARQUE NATURAL
DE ENTZIA
Ntra. Sra. de
Sallurtegi
Arrigorista
1153m.
Pierola
Convento
Ekain
Ntra. Sra.
de Itziar
Irukurutzeta 896m.
Kalamua
769m.
Klabelinaitz
605m.
Ntra. Sra.
de Arrate
Elgeta
San Marcial
Udalaitz
1118m.
Aumategigaa
(Saiturri) 1191m.
Altsasu
Korosti
904m.
Ntra. Sra. de
Arantzazu
Santuario
Motrollo
594m.
Sta. Katalina
San Miguel de Arretxinaga
Goikoian
S. Miguel Ereozar
Illuntzar 731m.
Sta. Eufemia
Ziortza Kolegiata
Oiz 1026m.
Arteaga
Ntra. Sra.
de Goiuria
Egoarbitza
734m.
Anboto
1328m.
Bolin
S. Antonio
Aramaio
Elgeamendi
942m.
Kapildui
1177m.
Pagogan
1027m.
Ntra. Sra. de Ayala
PARQUE
NATURAL
DE IZKI
Beolarra
Belabia
972m.
REVIO
Ntra. Sra. de
Estibaliz
Santa Marina
e la Pea
obas
Jandel
1035m.
Okon
Pea Alta
1246m.
Palomares
1451m.
Eskamelo
1296m.
Ntra. Sra. de la Asuncin
Fuenmayor
Cenicero
Logroo
Santo Espritu
Joar
1418m.
Costalera
1234m.
Acedo
PARQUE NATURAL
DE URKIOLA
LA
RDAIBAI
Balcn de
Bizkaia
Torre
Muntsaraz
S
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Argieta
Sepulkroak
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Si erra
de
Arangi o
Orisol 1126m.
Hipdromo
Martutene
Ernio
1026 m.
Aizkorri
1528 m.
Kurtzeta
Etxegarate
GI-3633
GI-3420
GI-3631
G
I-3
4
5
1
G
I-3410
G
I-3
7
2
1
G
I-3410
G
I-2
6
3
3
G
I-3
7
1
0
GI-3282
GI-3481
GI-3630
GI-3630
GI-3411
GI-3720
GI-4071
GI-3072
GI-3071
GI-3715
GI-3211
GI-3502
GI-3670
G
I - 3
6
7
0
G
I-360
GI-3371
GI-3581
G
I-3
1
6
2
G
I-3730
G
I-6
3
1
GI-631
GI-3293
G
I - 3
2
1
0
G
I-3
7
5
0
GI-3731
GI-3192
G
I-3
3
5
2
GI-3520
GI-3540
G
I - 3
5
7
2
A-8 E-70
N-1
GI-2132
GI-2638
G
I-2134
N-638
N
- 1
2
1
N
-1
N-634
A-8 E-70
GI-2132
G
I-1
3
1
G
I-1
3
1
N
-1
GI-2631
G
I-2
6
3
1
G
I-2
1
3
0
GI-2130
G
I-2634
GI-2634
N-130
N
A
-1
3
0
G
I-2
1
3
3
N
-1
G
I-2
1
3
1
GI-2133
G
I-1
2
0
N
-1
G
I-2
6
3
7
GI-632
G
I-6
3
2
G
I-632
G
I-2
6
3
0
G
I-2
6
3
0
A
-3
0
2
0
A-3012
A
-3012
A-3018
A
-3
0
1
6
A-3012
A-2128
A
-2
1
2
8
A-3110
A-3116
A-3114
A-3118
A-3114
A
-1
3
2
A-132
A
-3
1
2
0
A-126
A
-3
2
2
2
A
-2
1
2
6
A
-3
2
2
6
A
-3
2
2
6
A-3226
A
-1
2
4
A
-3
2
2
0
A
- 3
2
1
8
A-3228
A
-124
A-3228
A
- 3
2
1
6
A
-3
2
1
0
A-3220
A-3126
A
-126
A-3130
A
-3
1
3
2
A-132
A-4135
A
-3
1
1
2
A-3110
A-3112
A-3210
A
-4208
A-3214
3214
A
- 3
2
1
2
A-3130
BU
-741
A
-1
3
2
A-3110
A-4006 A
-2
1
3
4
A-3008
A-3010
A
-3
0
0
2
A
-3
0
1
2
A-3014
A-627
G
I-6
2
7
GI-3310
G
I-3
3
4
3
G
I-3
5
9
1 G
I-3
5
9
2
G
I-3
5
9
1
G
I - 3
5
1
1 A-2620
G
I-2
6
2
0
A
-3841
A
- 6
2
3
B
I-6
2
3
N
-2
4
0
N
G
I-6
2
7
G
I-3551
G
I-6
3
2
B
I-6
3
2
GI-3360
G
I-2
6
3
9
GI-2632
BI-2632
B
I-6
3
2
BI-3
3
1
3
G
I-2639
G
I-6
2
7
G
I-6
3
1
GI-3174
BI-3321
G
I-2
6
3
4
A-8 E-70
A
-8
E
-7
0
A-8 E-70
N
-634
N-634
B
I-3
3
0
1
BI-3302
BI-3342
G
I-3210
N
-634
G
I-3
2
9
2
GI-638
GI-3563
GI-3562
BI-2636
G
I - 3
9
5
0
B
I - 3
9
5
0
G
I-3301
B
I-6
3
3
BI-2224
BI-3448
BI-3447
B
I - 3
4
4
7
BI-3405
B
I-3
3
4
1
BI-3231
B
I - 3
2
2
2
BI-3222
BI-3231
BI-3
3
3
2
BI-2238
BI-3238
BI-3238
BI-3481
BI-3242
B
I-3
2
4
1
BI-3242
B
I-2
2
3
7
BI-3234
B
I-3
2
3
7
B
I-6
3
8
B
I-2
5
4
3
N-104
A-2130
A
-3
1
0
4
A
-68
-3542
G
I-3
4
4
0
G
I-3
3
6
1
G
I-3
6
7
2
G
I - 3
6
7
1
G
I-3401
G
I-2
6
3
5
N
-634
A-63
N-1 E-80 E-5
GI-3740
Lapuebla de
Labarca
Elciego
Oyn-Oin
Moreda de Alava
Lanciego/
Lantziego
Laguardia
Navaridas
Baos de Ebro
Alava
maniego
Leza
Elvillar/
Bilar
Ycora
Poblado Prehistorico
La Hoya
Cripn
Bernedo
Lagrn
rrada
Santa Cruz
de Campezo
Araia
Vitoria-Gasteiz
Alegra
Elburgo
Iruraiz-Gauna
Salvatierra
Agurain
Egilaz/Egilatz
Zalduondo
Asparrena
Araia
Durana
Legutiano
Leintz-
Gatzaga
Arrazua-Ubarrundia
Ozaeta
Otxandio
a
o
Mendata
Elantxobe
barrangelu
Ea
Gautegiz-
Arteaga
Ereo
Kortezubi
Ajangiz
Arratzu
eta-Etxano
Ispaster
Lekeitio
Mendexa
Ondarroa
Amoroto
Gizaburuaga
Nabarniz
Aulesti
Munitibar-Arbatzegi
Gerrikaitz
Markina-Xemein
Etxebarria
Berriatua
Ermua
Zaldibar
Elorrio
Abadio
rango
Izurtza
aria
Atxondo
Ibarra
Berriz
Mallabia Garay
Iurreta
Mutriku
Deba Zumaia
Getaria
Mendaro
Zestoa
Aizarnazabal
Zarautz
Orio
Usurbil
Elgoibar
Eibar
Azpeitia
Azkoitia
Bergara
Zumarraga
Legazpi
Arrasate/
Mondragn
Oati
Urretxu
Antzuola
Soraluze-
Placencia
de las Armas
Gabiria
Ormaiztegi
Mutiloa
Zerain
Zegama
Segura
Olaberria
Idiazabal
Ataun
Lazkao
Beasain
Ordizia
Ezkio-Itsaso
Itsasondo
Arama
Zaldibia
Gaintza
Altzaga
Baliarrain
Abaltzisketa
Amezketa
Legorreta
Orendain
Ikaztegieta
Alegia
Orexa
Lizartza
Gaztelu
Leaburu
Altzo
Albiztur
Beizama
Bidegoyan
Tolosa
Ibarra
Belauntza
Berastegi
Elduain
Berrobi
Hernialde
Anoeta
Irura
Villabona
Alkiza
Larraul
Errezil
Asteasu
Zizurkil
Aduna
Andoain
Lasarte-Oria
Urnieta
Hernani
Astigarraga
Pasaia
Errenteria
Antxo
San Pedro
Donibane
Lezo
Irun
Hondarribia
Oiartzun
Aretxabaleta
Eskoriatza
Aia
Donostia-
San Sebastin
asque history has always been marked by the
development of local institutions, thus the
Basque Country joined the kingdom of Castile
while maintaining its own charters and organisation
in the shape of its general assemblies, or Juntas
Generales. Modern nationalism had already been
born when the provincial system was dismantled
following the Carlist wars. Basque politics entered a
new stage after the Civil War, when the first Basque
Government had been brought to an abrupt end,
with the Estatuto de Gernika.
The abundance of prehistoric remains confirms
the early presence of man on Basque soil. The first
Basques, gradually developed their own language,
Basque or Euskara, which is considered to be even
older than the Indo-European languages. By the
time the Romans started moving further afield, the
local population had already organised itself into a
number of tribes with the names of: Vascones,
Aquitanos, Vrdulos, Caristios and Autrigones, who
had very little contact with one or another, or for
that matter with other peoples.
The mountainous, wooded orography contributed
to the north of the Basque Country remaining
somewhat isolated. But not so the south, in lava-
Araba, where the Romans established a number of
settlements. This area was subsequently to
become a passing place for the Barbarians and
served to hinder the expansion of the Moors. The
Basque territories depended on the kingdom of
Navarre, although it was really the powerful feudal
lords, or jauntxos who ruled the roost from their
impressive tower-houses.
Swearing allegiance to the Basque chapters
The Road to Santiago, with its constant pilgrim
comings and goings, helped to end this isolation.
Throughout the 13th and 14th centuries, the
Basque territories broke their traditional links with
Navarre to join the Castilian crown, maintaining
their autonomy by means of chapters to which the
Castilian kings had to swear allegiance. Each
territory was responsible for its own administration
under the respective Juntas Generales, and the
customs post separating the area from Castile was
established on the river Ebro.
Thanks to the issuing of charters by the Castilian
kings permitting the foundation of towns, a
number of boroughs were erected beyond the
control of the feudal lords who dominated the rural
areas. There were continuous confrontations
between the jauntxos, the heads of the different
clans, and particularly between the leaders of the
irreconcilable Oacino and Gambono clans.
Skilled fisherman and excellent shipbuilders, the
Basques played an important part in Spains
expansion throughout America. The shipping trade,
iron mining and fishing boosted economic
development in the 16th century, before the over-
exploitation of American wealth, piracy and
epidemics gave rise to an economic crisis.
The 18th century saw the establishment of
borders separating the Basques on either side of
B
A BRIEF HISTORY
8
The earliest Basques
buried their dead beneath
robust dolmens like that
of La Chabola de la
Hechicera in the part of
he Rioja region falling
within the province of
lava-Araba, known as
the Rioja alavesa.
Near here, in the
protohistoric village of
La Hoya, people used
bronze earrings similar
to those appearing below.
9
A BIT OF HISTORY
100,000 YEARS AGO.
Research has ruled out a
number of theories that
the first Basques arrived
from far-off places. The
forebears of todays
Basques had been here
for over 100,000 years
and probably already
spoke a language similar
to the local Euskera some
7,000 years ago, just
imagine! The Stone Age
Basques left us menhirs,
dolmens, stone circles
and paintings on the
walls of the Santimamie
and Ventalaperra caves in
Bizkaia, and on those of
Ekain and Altxerri in
Gipuzkoa. Even in the
Stone Age a number of
communities already
existed such as La Hoya,
the remains of which can
still be visited in the
Rioja alavesa region.
PROVINCIAL
AUTHORISATION.
Charters are ancient
social customs that have
become legal with time.
When the Basque
territories, until then
linked to the kingdom of
Navarre, became part of
the Castilian crown
(Gipuzkoa and lava-
Araba in 1200; Bizkaia
in 1379), they
maintained their charters
and administrations in
the shape of the Juntas
Generales. In fact, the
Castilian kings had to
swear that they would
respect these charters,
and the
juntas had the
right to veto royal
orders by means of
a so-called PASE
FORAL, or PROVINCIAL
AUTHORISATION. On the
other hand, agreements
taken by the Juntas
Generales had to be
approved by the
monarchy. This peculiar
form of self-government
continued until the late
19th century.
FOREIGN TRADE. The
Basque country, a land of
fishermen, played an
extremely important part
in naval trade with
America throughout the
18th century. The Real
Compaa Guipuzcoana
de Caracas, which at one
stage had as many as
fifty vessels and the
exclusive right to trade
with Venezuela, brought
prosperity to both
Donostia-San Sebastin
and to the nearby Pasaia.
The companys move to
Madrid and
the
subsequent
industrial
development in the
province of Bizkaia
nevertheless lent greater
importance in the next
century to the port of
Bilbao.
A REVOLUTION IF EVER
THERE WAS ONE.
Industrialisation in the
second half of the 19th
century brought
enormous change to the
Basque Country. From
the installation of the
first blast furnaces,
namely those of Santa
Ana in Bolueta (1849),
industrial revolution and
economic development
transformed the
landscape of Greater
Bilbao and an important
part of Gipuzkoa. While
Bizkaia specialised in the
iron and steel and naval
industries, Gipuzkoa
began specialising in the
making of paper and
machine tools. This
period saw the beginning
of decline in the
agricultural world. The
arrival of immigrants led
the population of Bizkaia
to double in barely fifty
years.
THE NEW BASQUE
COUNTRY. Having
recovered from the
consequences of the
industrial crisis, the last
few years of the
20th century
saw local
technological
and
social development, not
to mention the renovation
of infrastructures and
equipment. Perhaps the
titanium of the
Guggenheim Museum
Bilbao is the best image
of this new Basque
Country as it strides into
the 21st century.
Primus circundedisti me. That was the motto on the coat of
arms bearing a globe of the earth awarded by Carlos V to a Basque
man, Juan Sebastin Elkano. This sailor from Getaria was an officer
on the expedition headed by Magallanes and finally became captain
of the Victoria, the only ship to make it back to Sanlcar de
Barrameda after having been the first to have made it round the
world. Elkanos native village remembers him with a monument
and a four-yearly representation of his disembarkation.
Many other Basques were likewise outstanding navigators and
conquerors, such as: Andrs de Urdaneta, Miguel Lpez de Legazpi,
Antonio de Okendo, Cosme Damin Churruca and Juan de Garay.
THE FIRST PERSON TO MAKE IT ALL THE WAY ROUND
Guggenheim Bilbao Photograph by: Erika Barahona
DOWN THROUGH
THE AGES FROM
IRON TO TITANIUM
10
the river Bidasoa. The new economic boom and
spirit of learning gave rise to the appearance of
companies including the Real Compaa
Guipuzcoana de Caracas or the Real Sociedad
Bascongada de Amigos del Pas. There were also
occasional popular uprisings, or matxinadas, such
as the one that put paid to the attempts of Felipe V
to dismantle the customs post on the river Ebro.
Two opposing views
The Basque Country was intensely involved in the
19th century Carlist Wars, which, set around a
dynastic conflict, brought a provincial vision, then
related to the nobility and peasantry of the Ancient
Regime, into conflict with an incipient national
vision associated to the new liberal bourgeoisie. In
1876, at the end of the Third Carlist War, charters
were abolished and the customs posts were
transferred to the coast and the border with
France. Despite the loss of sovereignty, a system of
economic concerts was established between the
different county councils and the state, according
to which the former would take in taxes and
acquire a number of powers, while paying a yearly
sum to the latter for its services.
The industrial revolution, together with economic
liberalisation and strong immigration, had a radical
effect on the Basque landscape.
The late 19th century saw the birth of modern
nationalism, which in the Second Republic
succeeded in promoting a Statute of Autonomy,
though approved once the Civil War had already
broken out, thus putting paid to the new
expectations. Francos dictatorship abolished
economic concerts and endeavoured to repress all
of the Basque signs of identity.
On Francos death, in 1979, the Estatuto de
Gernika was passed, hence granting the Basque
Autonomous Government its own Parliament and
Government with authority in basic matters. The
provinces of lava-Araba, Bizkaia and Gipuzkoa
maintained the right to collect taxes through their
regional governments and recovered their Juntas
Generales.
A BRIEF HISTORY
The tree under which the
Bizkaian Juntas
Generales would meet, in
fact a descendent of the
original oak, is regarded
as highly symbolic by all
Basques.
11
A BRIEF HISTORY
The tower-houses still
standing in the Basque
Country recall a series of
conflicts, known as the
guerras banderizas,
which spread through
the country in the
Middle Ages.
The territory was
fragmented around
several feudal lords, or
parientes mayores, and
the fighters were split
into two basic factions,
the Oacinos and the
Gambonos, enemies to
the death.
Tower-houses were
therefore as much
defensive constructions
as they were economic
and organisational units,
and the guerras
banderizas subsequently
led to Enrique IV
forbidding their
construction.
Those still standing are
tall and thick-walled,
with a square or
rectangular ground plan.
Some of the most
beautiful tower-houses
still surviving today
are the:
CASA-TORRE DE
MENDOZA, near Vitoria-
Gasteiz. The Oacino
Mendozas lived in this
tall, impregnable tower
surrounded by a wall
bearing angle turrets.
Later used as a prison,
this building presently
houses the Museo de
Herldica.
PALACIO FUERTE DE
AYALA, in Quejana
(lava-Araba). This
fortified palace of the
Ayala family, a lineage
which went on to give its
name to the entire valley,
is well worth the visit.
Particularly outstanding
is the turret containing
the chapel of the Virgen
del Cabello, with its
authentic alabaster
sepulchres and replica of
the altarpiece. The
original is on display in
Chicago.
CASTILLO DE
MUATONES, in Muskiz
(Bizkaia). Now being
restored, this castle has
everything youd expect
to find in a medieval
castle, including a moat
and double walls.
CASTILLO DE
BUTRON, in Gatika
(Bizkaia). The 19th
century restoration of a
14th century tower-house
gave rise to an imposing
45-metre high
construction with a
multitude of little turrets
giving the visitor the
feeling of having been
spirited back to the
Middle Ages.
TORRE DE ERCILLA,
in Bermeo (Bizkaia).
Ancestral home of Alonso
de Ercilla and presently
of the Museo del
Pescador, this tower has
pointed openings and a
turreted cornice.
CASTILLO DE
GAUTEGIZ ARTEAGA
(Bizkaia). Empress
Eugenia de Montijo had
this castle built in the
19th century according
to the contemporary
fashion of recovering
styles of the past.
TORRE DE
MUNTSARATZ, in
Abadio (Bizkaia). An
extremely beautiful tower
to which Renaissance
windows were later
added.
TORRE LUZEA, in
Zarautz (Gipuzkoa).
Standing in the centre of
the Kale Nagusia or main
street of Zarautz, this is
the best conserved tower-
house in Gipuzkoa. In
addition to its beautiful
exterior aspect is a lovely
interior staircase.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS
Casas de Juntas
(ASSEMBLY HOUSES)
Tall towers with thick walls and slender windows.
Thats what the houses of the medieval lords looked
like. Although many of these tower-houses no longer
exist, the visitor will discover from a distance the
slender stone outline of some of these typically
medieval constructions, not to mention other highly
attractive castles and palaces.
TOWER-HOUSES AND CASTLES
Gautegiz Arteaga Castle
The Basque Country
contains a number of
towers symbolising
fragmentation and others
evoking the combination
of forces. This is the case
of the CASA DE JUNTAS
DE ABELLANEDA in
Sopuerta (Bizkaia), a
tower-house at which the
Juntas Generales
meetings were held
between the ten
republics making up the
Encartaciones region.
Although this ensemble
of medieval constructions
has experienced a
number of modifications
over the centuries, it
nevertheless continues to
maintain its symbolic
value. It is likewise home
of the attractive Museo
de las Encartaciones.
Better known is the
CASA DE JUNTAS DE
GERNIKA where the
Junta members from the
entire Bizkaian feudal
estate would meet.
Although this is a 19th
century Neo-classical
building, it was
constructed over the
medieval church of Santa
Mara de la Antigua.
Headquarters of the re-
established Juntas
Generales de Bizkaia,
both the building itself
and the historic Gernika
oak tree can be visited.
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he Basque Country offers an interesting
selection of aesthetic styles ranging from
cave paintings to state-of-the-art constructions.
The Romanesque stonework of the Basilica de
Estibalitz, the great Gothic temples and towers, the
impressive Baroque style of the Loiola Sanctuary,
the joint work of the Basque avant-garde artists at
Arantzazu or the international modernity of the
Guggenheim Museum Bilbao are only some of the
features on the long road through the Basque
Country and its monuments.
The earliest artistic expressions are to be found
in the caves of Ventalaperra (Carranza),
Santimamie (Kortezubi), Altxerri (Orio) and Ekain
(Deba). The cave painters hunters left
beautiful, schematic images of horses, bison and
bears. The prehistoric Basques also bequeathed us
with striking funerary constructions dolmens and
stone circles or the statue of a mysterious animal
in the shape of the dolo de Mikeldi, now housed in
Bilbaos Museo Arqueolgico Vasco.
The Romans likewise left their mark in the
remains of architectural works, such as Mantible
bridge in Assa (Rioja alavesa), the seven arches of
which span the 164 metres of the river Ebro, or
the Oppidum de Irua near Vitoria-Gasteiz, a
complete Roman city.
lava-Araba, a place of passage and artery of
the inland route to Santiago de Compostela, was
extremely important in the early Middle Ages,
hence the fact that the greatest number and
best examples of Romanesque constructions
are to be found in this province. The church
of San Prudencio, in Armentia, and the basilica
of Estibalitz stand out sharply against the
Alavese Plain.
Also worth a mention are two somewhat later
Romanesque constructions, the church of Andra
Mari de Elexalde in Galdakao (Bizkaia) and the
sanctuary of Santa Mara La Antigua in
Zumarraga (Gipuzkoa), considered as the
cathedral of Basque hermitages. A number of
Romanesque religious sculptures are also to be
found in the area.
Gothic gems
Increased development in the Basque Country
during the late Middle Ages has left its mark in
countless examples of Gothic architecture. In
addition to churches, this style is to be found in
fortifications, the layout of walled villages and
towns, administrative buildings and tower-houses.
The growing importance of cities at that time means
that we can also admire Gothic constructions in
Vitoria-Gasteiz (Catedral de Santa Mara), Bilbao
(the rehabilitated Catedral de Santiago), or
Donostia-San Sebastin (San Vicente Church).
But we mustnt forget to mention other Gothic
gems. The Torre de los Mendoza, the frescoes
covering the church of Gaceo and the entire range
of historical monuments in Laguardia, lava-Araba.
The churches dedicated to Santa Mara in Lekeitio,
Gernika-Lumo and Ordua, and the Torre de
Muatones in Bizkaia. The area within the walls of
Hondarribia, the Torre Luzea in Zarautz and the
church of San Salvador in Getaria, Gipuzkoa.
The 16th century saw a rise in Renaissance
construction throughout the Basque Country,
T
THE BASQUE COUNTRY AND ITS MONUMENTS
12
The strong Varona
Tower, which started to
be built in the 14th
century in Villanae
(Alava), is nowadays
one of the best-preserved
fortified sites in the
Basque Country.
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13
THE ROMANS OF
IRUA. Right next to
Vitoria-Gasteiz, in
Trespuentes, we can visit
the site of what must
have been a city in
Roman imperial times.
The Oppidum de Irua is
a Roman settlement
surrounded by a thick
wall corresponding to the
ancient
Veleia. We
can still see
the remains
of a forum,
the layout of
the urban
structure
and two
bridges
spanning the
river
Zadorra.
ROMANESQUE BRIDGE
IN BALMASEDA. The
Puente Viejo, or de la
Muza, is one of the most
symbolic elements to be
found in Balmaseda.
Built in the 13th century
over the ruins of a
previous construction,
this Romanesque bridge,
now a national
monument, was an
obligatory place of
passage on the ancient
road to Castile.
FLEMISH ALTARPIECE
IN LEKEITIO. The Gothic
period left one of its gems
in Lekeitios church of
Santa Mara de la
Asuncin (Bizkaia). In
addition to admiring the
buildings typically Gothic
buttresses and flying
buttresses, we mustnt
miss the central
altarpiece depicting the
life of Mary and the
Passion of Christ. This
building is attributed to a
Flemish master highly
skilled in expressiveness
and detail.
RENAISSANCE
UNIVERSITY. In the
Basque Country referring
to Renaissance means
referring to Oati
University (Gipuzkoa), a
paradigm of the said style
thanks to both its
architectural form and
open spirit. The
Universidad del Sancti
Spiritus is a beautiful
building set around a
serene patio. A
Plateresque facade with
allegoric figures
and two higher
bodies on either
extreme confer
distinction upon
this delightfully
harmonious
construction.
MODERNIST
BILBAO.
Modernist
aesthetics, with
sculptural facades and art
nouveau decoration, was
fashionable in Bilbao and
can still be seen in
buildings such as the
Casa Montero (on the
Alameda de Recalde) or
the Teatro Campos
Elseos, both decorated
by the Frenchman,
Darroguy. Donostia-San
Sebastins Calle Prim
also has a number of
buildings bearing a
profusion of Modernist
decoration.
13
2000 YEARS
BRICK BY
BRICK
Although the work of contemporary
architects and sculptors is to be found
throughout the Basque Country, the Santuario de
Arantzazu is perhaps the best example of avant-
garde art.
Several creators came together in the 50s to
build this new basilica in a privileged setting; a
work that completely broke away from previous
architectural aesthetics. The architectural project
was drawn up by Sinz de Oiza and Luis Laorga.
The sculptures on the facade (with thirteen
apostles instead of twelve) are by Jorge Oteiza.
The doors, by a young Eduardo Chillida. The
splendid altarpiece, by Lucio Muoz. And the
paintings in the crypt by Nestor Basterretxea.
Simply unique.
A REVOLUTIONARY collaboration
THE BASQUE COUNTRY AND ITS MONUMENTS
14 14
THE BASQUE COUNTRY AND ITS MONUMENTS
although this often meant the mutilation of medieval
tower-houses in order to add galleries, or the
completion of churches started in earlier centuries.
This period saw the breakthrough of a new kind of
temple, the salon church, with three vaulted
naves of the same height intended to create one
single space. Gipuzkoa houses the most splendid
examples of Renaissance architecture with Oati
University and the Real Seminario de Bergara. The
sculptural work on these buildings varies between
completely over-the-top Plateresque decoration, a
certain expressive Mannerism introduced by foreign
artists, and the serenity of the altarpieces carved by
Juan de Antxieta, from Azpeitia.
The Baroque movement was responsible for an
impressive construction, the Sanctuario de Loiola
in Azpeitia (Gipuzkoa). This church is principally
surrounded by buildings used as convents, usually
with a cruciform ground plan and the typically
ornamental simplicity employed after the Council
of Trent. A similar schema repeats itself in the
numerous town halls erected during this period
(Labastida, Elorrio, Durango, with Roccoco
paintings, Oati, Arrasate-Mondragn, etc.), all of
which have porticoed arches and facades bearing
the local coats-of-arms.
After centuries marked by a predominance of
religious architecture, Neo-classicism led to civil
architecture and to the development of urbanism.
The Casa de Juntas de Gernika dates from this
period, as do the suburbs of the different capitals,
Bilbaos graceful Plaza Nueva and the square of
the same name in Vitoria-Gasteiz, a city
outstanding for its Los Arquillos ensemble, an
imaginative architectural solution to the height
difference between two areas.
The triumph of eclecticism
Eclecticism was to triumph in the Basque
Country in the 19th century, when it adapted
elements from different styles and used them to
create buildings with their own particular
personality, such as the Ayuntamiento,
the Palacio de la Diputacin (Regional County
Building) and the Teatro Arriaga in Bilbao,
or the Hotel Mara Cristina, the Teatro Victoria
Eugenia and the Gran Casino (presently the
Town Hall) in the capital of Gipuzkoa.
Both capitals, Bilbao and Donostia-San
Sebastin, were the scene of modernist
architectural construction during the early
20th century.
The best example of contemporary aesthetics
is the Arantzazu Sanctuary, collective work
amongst whose creators already figured Jorge
Oteiza and Eduardo Chillida, two recently de
ceased geniuses whose debates and proposals
greatly influenced the twentieth century. Samples
of Chillidas work, such as the Peine de los Vientos
(The Windcomb) are to be found beside the sea
in San Sebastin, in the Plaza de los Fueros in
Vitoria-Gasteiz and in the Parque de los Pueblos
de Europa in Gernika-Lumo.
Together with the activity of numerous highly
interesting Basque creators of all kinds of art,
recent years have seen the carrying out of
important projects, sometimes entrusted to
prestigious foreign architects, as is the case
of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao (Frank Gehry),
and the Bilbao underground (Norman Foster),
or the Kursaal Centre by Rafael Moneo from
Navarre.
The perfect example of
Baroque grandiosity in
the Basque Country is
the Santuario de Loiola
in Azpeitia (Gipuzkoa).
Designed by one of
Berninis disciples, Carlos
Fontana, and with a
decisive Churrigueresque
influence, the most
outstanding part of the
ensemble is its central
basilica. The spectacular
dome, 65 metres high,
has been subject to all
sorts of complicated
repair work in the
attempt to stop it from
cracking.
THE BASQUE COUNTRY AND ITS MONUMENTS
CHURCH OF OUR
LADY OF EL JUNCAL.
This emblematic building
of Irun, in Basque gothic
style, started to be built
in 1508. Its inside
preserves exceptional
works: the image of Our
Lady of El Juncal, the
oldest in Gipuzkoa, and a
17th century high
altarpiece, a work by Juan
de Bascardo and Domingo
de Zatarain.
SANTIAGOMENDI
HERMITAGE.
A simple, symbolic
construction in
Astigarraga. The
alabaster
sculpture of the
apostle is now
housed at
Donostia-San
Sebastins
Museo
Diocesano.
CHURCH OF LA
ASUNCIN.
This magnificent example
of the 16th century gothic
style, with a notable
churrigueresque
altarpiece, is one of the
many appeals in Seguras
medieval quarter. This
church does not lack a
chapel devoted to
Santiago.
HERMITAGE OF
SANCTI - SPIRITUS.
Located in the vicinity of
the San Adrian Tunnel,
this hermitage, that
formerly was a templar
hospital, is the natural
frontier between Gipuzkoa
and lava. At its foot, we
can see the big house of
the mikeletes (Gipuzkoas
Provincial Police), now
used as a mountain hut.
Hermitage of SAN
JULIAN and SANTA
BASILISA. Having
successfully made their way
through the emblematic
San Andran tunnel
separating Gipuzkoa from
lava-Araba, pilgrims would
stop for a rest at this pre-
Romanesque hermitage in
Zalduondo.
Church of SAN MARTIN
DE GACEO.
The entire apse and
presbytery are
spectacularly covered in
Gothic paintings depicting
religious scenes.
ESTIBALITZ Santuary.
Offers one of the best
examples of medieval
architecture in the
Basque Country and
houses a 12th century
statue of this patron saint
of lava-Araba.
BASILICA OF SAN
PRUDENCIO.
In Armentia (Vitoria-
Gasteiz), still maintains
its beauty despite the
many alterations to which
it has been subjected
since its construction
towards the end of the
12th century. Inside the
portico we can still see
parts of the ancient
Romanesque doorway.
Dont miss the
tympanums of the Lamb
and the Saviour.
THE COASTAL ROAD
the inland road
Pilgrims heading for Santiago made their
way through the Basque Country via one of
two itineraries, by the Coastal Road, along the
rugged coast of Gipuzkoa and on into the
green valleys of Bizkaia, or by the Inland Road,
across the Alavese plain via San Adrin tunnel.
Two routes which now permit travellers to
discover the diversity of the Basque Country
and to appreciate the art preserved for
centuries in beautiful hermitages, churches
and basilicas.
Two routes and one destination
San Martn de Gaceo
San Prudencio
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EN ROUTE
FOR SANTIAGO
DE COMPOSTELA
Markina-
Xemein
Ziortza-
Cenarruza
Zamudio
Portugalete
Zalduondo
Salvatierra
Gaceo Estibaliz
Tnel de
San Adrin
Elburgo Ariez
Lapuebla de Arganzn
Armin
Ribabellosa
Zambrana
Gernika-
Lumo
Morga
Larrabetzu
Gees
Zalla
Balmaseda
Sestao
Zierbena
Muskiz
Bilbao
Vitoria-Gasteiz
Armentia
Salinillas de Buradn
Irun
Hondarribia
Donostia-
San Sebastin
Andoain
Tolosa
Zarautz
Zumaia
Oiartzun
Astigarraga
Hernani
Villabona
Alegia
Ordizia
Beasain
Segura
Zegama
Pasaia
Getaria
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Orio
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GUADALUPE
SANCTUARY. This sober
temple, home of the highly
venerated 15th century
Virgen de Guadalupe, stands
on Mount Jaizkibel, beside
the scenic road leading up
from Hondarribia.
HERMITAGE OF SAN
MARTIN DE TOURS. In
Orio, accommodates a
beautiful Plateresque image
of the pilgrims patron saint.
ITZIAR SANCTUARY. An
obligatory stop for pilgrims
at the top of the hill
between Zumaia and Deba,
this sanctuary houses a
delightful 13th century
statue of the Virgen and a
Plateresque altarpiece.
HERMITAGE OF SAN
MIGUEL DE ARRETXINAGA.
A natural triple megalith
forms the spectacular altar of
this highly unusual hexagonal
hermitage located in Markina-
Xemein.
CENARRUZA
COLLEGIATE CHURCH. A
track leads to Ziortza
(Cenarruza in Spanish) and
to the only collegiate church
in Bizkaia.Its altarpieces
and chapels present a wide
range of artistic styles.
BASILICA OF THE
VIRGEN DE BEGOA. This
temple venerating the
patron saint of Bizkaia
towers over Bilbao from a
nearby hill. Although the
basilica dates from the late-
Gothic period, the beautiful
image of the Virgen is
actually Romanesque.
The Gothic church of SAN
SEVERINO in Balmaseda
was erected in the 14th and
15th centuries. A number of
subsequent Baroque
additions are responsible for
its remarkable morphology.
San Severino
Cenarruza Collegiate Church
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ertsolaris (poets who improvise verse in the
Basque language), dantzaris (performers of
folkloric dances), txalapartaris
(percussionists as per ancient tradition),
harrijasotzailes (stone-lifters) or segalaris (grass-
cutters). These are not strange beings, but modern
Basques dedicated to preventing the
disappearance of age-old traditions. The
combination of common folkloric elements with
the peculiarities of the different Basque
populations gives rise to an endless selection of
festive expressions the whole year round, not to
mention a number of important international
festivals.
The rural world, with the farmhouse or baserria at
the centre of the family, agriculture and
stockbreeding, has lost a good deal of its former
importance in Basque life. This said, the
farmhouse culture is yet to be found behind most
of the typical sports, fiestas and traditions
that have adapted to modern
times without losing any of their
original spirit.
The Basques have converted farm
chores into competitive sports and a way of having
fun. Challenges and a proverbial love of betting have
made a job as hard as log-cutting into a popular
sport where two woodcutters, or aizkolaris, stand on
trunks of wood similar in thickness and compete to
see who is the best with the axe.
Grass-cutting, stone-lifting, and even the
sheepdog trials where farmers and their quick-
witted dogs lead sheep round a circuit, are now
institutionalised rural sports or herri kirolak, as are
others such as the soka-tira, where two teams
measure their strength in a tug-of-war, skittles
and, of course, Basque pelota in its different
modalities, be it hand, bat or cesta-punta (see
picture).
Herri kirolak, which survive not only as folkloric
representations for the tourists, but as lively events
attracting hordes of local enthusiasts, are present
at all agricultural fairs, religious processions or
rural fiestas worth their salt, as are other examples
of Basque idiosyncrasy. First in this respect is
traditional music and dance, proof of a wealthy
folkloric heritage. Next are the bertsolaris, those
highly admired performers of improvised oral
literature who have had such an influence on the
transmission of Euskera, the millenary language of
the Basques.
Last but not least, are the traditional crafts.
Wooden objects, ranging from yokes for tying oxen
together, kutxas (carved trunks) or makilas
(walking sticks) are still made by a small group of
wood craftsmen. But we mustnt forget the
argizaiola, a decoratively carved piece of wood
around which a long wax candle is wound and
which was lit in times gone by to provide the
deceased with light in the world of darkness. This
traditional object actually dates from pre-
Christianity, the expressions of which were largely
assimilated by the Catholic religion.
Springtime: masks and dances
One of the aspects on the Basque festive and
cultural calendar to be found the whole year round
is folklore. Although most of events of this kind
b
FIESTAS AND TRADITIONS
16
The Basques work hard
at keeping their ancient
traditions alive.
TWO PIECES OF
WOOD. Youll be
pleasantly surprised at
any fiesta to discover the
locally exclusive musical
instruments. The
txalaparta is an ancient
form of percussion: two
planks of wood, two
people and two sticks yet
again of wood produce a
never-ending variety of
rhythms and sounds. The
trikitixa or diatonic
accordion, accompanied
by a tambourine player,
produces a sound of
contagious gaiety. The
alboka is an ancient wind
instrument. More
common is however
the high-pitched
txistu whistle, which
is played with three
fingers of the left
hand,
leaving
the right
hand free
to play
the drum.
LEGS UP!
Basque folklore
involves all sorts
of popular
dances. The
dantzaris
perform in
either all-male
groups
(sometimes
including the
spectacular
ezpata-
danza or sword dance) or
in groups of men and
women. One of the most
spectacular solitary
dances is the aurresku,
where the dancer
solemnly kicks a leg up
to head height. This
dance is performed as a
mark of respect or by way
of a welcome at different
events.
IMPROVISED VERSE.
Ever since ancient times,
bertsolaris have been
practising an extremely
strange kind of oral
literature in the Basque
language. Responding
to a subject given to
them at the moment
of standing up to
sing, or
dialectically
confronted with
another
improviser,
these
bertsolaris
have to
invent
verses before
the audience in
keeping with strict rules
of rhythm and metrics.
Imagination, depth, social
criticism and the odd bit
of mischief are
concealed in the
words of these
sharp-witted poets.
SPORTS FOR THE
STRONGEST. One of the
sports only carried out by
the harrijasotzailes or
stone-lifters is that of
lifting a stone weighing
over 300 kilos up to
shoulder height. The
lifting of cylindrical,
rectangular, cubic and
round stones is one of
the most impressive rural
sports. Other modalities
with a strong traditional
flavour are the cutting of
trunks with an axe by
aizkolaris, the cutting of
grass with a scythe by
segolaris, or the pulling
of stones by oxen, known
as idi probak.
BY HAND. Basque pelota
is by far the most popular
local sport. It is played in
a large part of the
peninsula and in the
South of France, as well
as having been taken
across the
ocean to
America.
Pelota
courts, to be
found in even
the smallest
Basque hamlet,
watch over the
players of the
different modalities as
they evolve from playing
with the hand to the
spectacular cesta-punta,
via the version where the
ball is hit with a wooden
bat. The coming and going
of bets between spectators
is an essential part of the
proceedings.
FIESTAS AND TRADITIONS
17
A COUNTRY
WITH ITS OWN
PERSONALITY
Thirteen oarsmen and a captain form the crew of the
fixed-thwart rowing boats that participate in the competitions
which each summer awaken fiery passion in the supporters of
the different colours. This competition originated in the
struggle the coastal fishermen used to make in the attempt to
reach harbour first and sell their wares before the others.
The fixed-thwart rowing competitions now require a great
deal of physical training and end in a spectacular final battle
for the Bandera de la Concha flag. People flock to the bay of
the same name, where they follow each stroke of the oar with
an eagle eye.
THE BEATING OF OARS
FIESTAS AND TRADITIONS
The aizkolaris,
or competitors who
chop wood either
horizontally or vertically,
have made farmwork
into a sport out.
take place in summer, the Basque Autonomous
Community offers interesting rendezvous in each of
the four seasons.
In spring we can have a ball at the Carnival or
Inauteriak. This happy-go-lucky festivity has best
preserved its atmosphere in the smaller villages,
and particularly in Tolosa (Gipuzkoa), than it has
done in the capitals. The relative carnival
licentiousness gives way to the solemnity of Easter,
with the popular representations of the Passion
and Death of Christ in Balmaseda, Durango and
Galdakao (Bizkaia), not to mention those of
Azkoitia, Segura and Hondarribia in Gipuzkoa.
In addition to the tattoo and drum parade of San
Prudencio in Vitoria-Gasteiz, two unusual and
rather touching festivities bring the spring cycle to
a close: that of La Santa Cruz, in Legazpi
(Gipuzkoa), when the Mirandaola forge is set in
motion, and that of the Corpus Christi procession
in Oati (Gipuzkoa), the masks and dances of
which date back at least to 1478.
Summer: fireworks and jazz
Its no exaggeration to say that the Basque
Country becomes one big fiesta in summertime.
Festive rendezvous come one after the other
around a number of specific dates. In June, San
Juan (be careful not to miss the festivities in
celebration of the patron saints day in Tolosa when
the Bordon-dantza is performed, or the religious
procession to the Hermitage of San Juan de
Gaztelugatxe), San Pedro (when the Kaxarranka is
danced in Lekeitio), and San Marcial, the
culminating moment of which is the noisy military
parade (Alarde) in Irun. Both the latter and
Hondarribia celebrate their patron saints day in
the same way, by donning red berets and sporting a
gun over their shoulders in memory of past
victories over the French army. The San Marcial
Alarde celebrated in both Irun (30th June) and
Hondarribia (8th September) is massively attended
by men and women from the towns along the river
Bidasoa.
July and the day of the Virgen del Carmen (the
patron saint of fishermen) bring celebration to
seafaring villages such as Plentzia and Santurtzi.
In Antzuola (Gipuzkoa), the Alarde del Moro
commemorates a historical episode. The Fiestas de
la Magdalena bring Errenteria (Gipuzkoa) and
Bermeo (Bizkaia) to life, while the latter has a
curious tradition of celebrating having obtained the
ownership of Izaro Island. But theres more to
come. The Da del Blusa (when groups of
youngsters dress in different coloured tunics) in
Vitoria-Gasteiz, or the fiesta in celebration of Saint
Ignatius, patron saint of Bizkaia and Gipuzkoa,
particularly popular in Azpeitia and Getxo.
In August, the festive temperature rises slightly (if
possible) with the avalanche of events organised in
Vitoria-Gasteiz in celebration of La Virgen Blanca
and in Donostia-San Sebastin and Bilbao during
their respective Semanas Grandes or Big Weeks.
Although Getaria celebrates its patron saints day
each year, it is only on every fourth year that we
can see the performance representing Elkanos
disembarkation from his voyage round the world.
Summer in the Basque Country is festival time.
For example, the Jazz Festival. Lovers of this genre
18
FIESTAS AND TRADITIONS
DRUMS BY THE
THOUSAND. The San
Sebastian Day
celebrations in the city of
the same name last for
24 hours, from midnight
on the 19th January until
midnight on the 20th,
when the
city flag is
hoisted and
lowered
respectively.
During this
time, tens of
drum and
barrel
beating companies
dressed in elegant
uniforms dating from
Napoleonic times or
dressed as chefs, march
through even the smallest
streets of San Sebastin
playing a number of
melodies specially
composed for the
occasion by Raimundo
Sarriegui. At 12 oclock
on the 20th the kids take
to the streets. Over
5,000 youngsters
participate with
delightfully serious faces
in the childrens drum
parade.
IN FULL FANCY DRESS.
Although the Carnival,
previously announced by
the Caldereros procession
(in memory of Hungarian
gypsies) in Donostia-San
Sebastin, is celebrated
in all three capitals, the
real fun is to be had in
other places, like Tolosa,
with its well-deserved
reputation for high jinx
and revelry. Of long
parodic tradition, this
event succeeded in
surviving the prohibition
declared by Franco
thanks to being renamed
Fiestas de Primavera
(Spring Fiestas).
Zalduondo, Salcedo,
Campezo / Kanpezu
and Salvatierra /
Agurain in lava-Araba,
or Mundaka and Markina-
Xemein, in Bizkaia, all
live their fiesta de las
mscaras with similar
intensity. The star of
the Markina Carnival is a
bear.
DANCING ON A
CHEST. Eight
sailors carry a
wooden chest or
kutxa on their
shoulders
while a
dantzari
bedecked
with top hat
dances upon
it. This peculiar event,
known as the kaxarranka,
and started by the
fishermens guild, takes
place in Lekeitio every
29th June, on Saint
Peters Day. This event is
enthusiastically
celebrated in the Basque
Country, as is Saint
Johns Day (24th June)
when the night becomes
alight with the flames of
the purifying bonfires.
A 500-YEAR OLD
TRADITION. The Corpus
Christi fiesta in June is
celebrated by means of a
splendid procession in
Oati (Gipuzkoa), during
which the ancient Korpus
Dantzak dances are
performed. The members
of the Brotherhood of the
Apostolado who participate
in the procession wear
spectacular masks
representing Christ,
San Miguel and
the apostles.
Despite the fact that there is no proven relationship
between these two relatively recent characters, Marijaia and
Celedn nevertheless share a popularity which has made them
into the symbols of the respective patron saints festivities in
Bilbao and Vitoria-Gasteiz.
Celedn, wearing a tunic and holding an umbrella above
his head, descends each 4th August into the Plaza de la Virgen
Blanca to open the fiestas held in his honour in Vitoria-
Gasteiz. The enormous Marijaia, with her arms held up high,
presides over the Aste Nagusia or Big Week celebrations in
Bilbao, which bring the capital to life during the seven days
following the 15th August.
Taking place somewhere between the other two,
Donostia-San Sebastin rounds off a fiesta-packed month of
August in the three Basque capitals with its Semana grande.
The fiestas of Vitoria-Gasteiz and Bilbao are far livelier than
that of San Sebastin, thus making the latter ideal for the
more relaxed. All three have a firework competition, open-air
festivities and a number of bull-fighting events, although these
are more popular in Bilbao.
MARIJAIA AND CELEDN
19
FROM FIESTA
TO FIESTA ALL
YEAR ROUND
can choose from a selection of three events taking
place in July. The first, in Getxo, is the most
European of the three; the second, in Vitoria-
Gasteiz, is the most complete and offers more star
appearances than the others; the third option,
Donostia-San Sebastins Jazzaldia, has a touch of
seniority and the added attraction of the fact that
most of the concerts take place in the open air.
But there are also options for other musical tastes,
such as the International Folklore Festival in
Portugalete, or the important classical music
festival, the Quincena Musical, held each year in
San Sebastin.
Autumn: military parades and cinema
September brings the San Antoln fiestas to
Lekeitio and those of the Virgen de Guadalupe and
hence the military parade, or Alarde, to
Hondarribia. Another parade, held later in October,
and that known as Errebombillos, takes place in
Elorrio.
Although Donostia-San Sebastin isnt
Hollywood, it does become a miniature version
each September. The Film Festival, the only
international competitive event of its kind in
Spain, attracts countless film buffs in search of
oeuvres by new directors and of the famous faces
who parade their glamour through the streets of
the city.
Autumn also offers a number of cultural events:
Bilbao sees the start of the ABAO opera season
and the International Documentary and Short Film
Festival; Vitoria-Gasteiz is the venue of the
International Theatre Festival; Tolosa organises the
Choral Competition; and Donostia-San Sebastin a
second cinematographic contest, the increasingly
popular Fantasy and Horror Film Festival.
Winter: drums and books
Winter is introduced by Santo Toms fair, when
agricultural products and a flavour of the
countryside are brought right into the centre of two
capital cities: Donostia-San Sebastin and Bilbao.
Christmas Eve sees the arrival of the Olentzero, a
pot-bellied charcoal burner with pre-Christian roots
who has become a sort of local Santa Claus.
Christmas is celebrated differently in Labastida
(lava-Araba), where 17th century dances are
performed, and in Lazkao (Gipuzkoa) where Mary
and Josephs flight to Egypt is re-enacted at the
fiesta known as Astotxo (Little Donkey).
The 20th January marks the day on which the roll
of drums is to be heard throughout Donostia-San
Sebastin. The celebrations in honour of the citys
patron saint and the melodies of Raimundo
Sarriegui continue all day long. Two days later,
Oyn-Oion (lava-Araba) is the setting for a
peculiar procession known as Katxi.
There are fewer cultural rendezvous in winter,
although we mustnt forget the Basque Book and
Record Fair in Durango, showcase of the years
production in the Basque language.
20
FIESTAS AND TRADITIONS
The Fiesta de la Blanca
takes place during the
first week in August in
honour of the Virgen de
las Nieves. The festivities
begin with the Descent
of Celedn, the character
in local dress who, using
an umbrella as a
parachute, descends from
the bell tower of San
Miguel into the Plaza de
la Virgen Blanca.
FILM CAPITAL.
Each September, the
Zinemaldia makes
Donostia-San Sebastin
into a film city where the
brilliance of the stars who
walk its carpet combines
with the queues of
cinema buffs waiting to
book tickets, and the
official competition for
the Golden Shell with the
interesting retrospectives
and surprise films.
QUINCENA MUSICAL.
Each summer, the capital
of Gipuzkoa experiences
the excitement of
classical music.
Symphony, chamber,
organ, contemporary
music, childrens
concerts and operas offer
music-lovers a thrilling
festival which now lasts
for almost a month
instead of the initial
fortnight.
JAZZALDIA.
The longest running jazz
festival in the Basque
Country takes place at
the end of July, when
warm melodies can be
enjoyed in the open air at
either the Plaza de la
Trinidad or beside the
Kursaal Centre.
OPERA CAPITAL.
Bilbao, with its long
lyrical tradition, can be
considered as the Basque
Countrys opera capital.
The ABAO (Asociacin
Bilbana de Amigos de la
Opera) has been staging
opera seasons never
lacking in big names or
new values been
continuously staging for
the last approximately
fifty years. Verdi is the
composer whos work
appears most often on
the programme.
ZINEBI: International
Festival of Documentary
and Short Film.
The most recent and
youngest audiovisual
products are screened in
November at Bilbaos
International
Documentary and Short
Film Festival.
THE JAZZ CAPITAL.
While not forgetting
Donostia-San Sebastin
and Getxo, each July
Vitoria-Gasteiz becomes
the centre of attention for
lovers of this kind of
music. Since 1977,
important soloists and
bands have been faithful
to this Jazz Festival, one
of the most prestigious in
its genre.
THEATRE FESTIVAL.
In autumn, tens of
companies burst onto the
stages of Vitoria-Gasteiz
with their latest works to
participate in the
International Theatre
Festival.
NEFF: New European
Film Festival of Vitoria-
Gasteiz.
The Montehermoso
Cultural Centre, the
Principal Theatre, and
cinemas screens in the
city are the stage of
NEFF. This festival,
emerged from the fusion
of the Audiovisual
Festival and Vitorias
International Film
Festival, immerses the
city in a great atmosphere
of international cinema.
AND ALSO
An enormous mixture of music, cinema, dance, theatre. The
Basque Country simply oozes with culture thanks to a number
of high-ranking festivals. If international stars and new
directors come together at the San-Sebastin International
Film Festival, Bilbao is the meeting place for bel canto
voices during its opera season and Vitoria-Gasteiz for the
best jazz musicians, who also visit Getxo and Donostia-
San Sebastin. Its time to go off and have fun.
A COUNTRY OF CULTURE
Vitoria -
Gasteiz
Donostia -
SAN SEBASTIN
Other Basque towns and villages offer cultural
expressions worthy of mention, including:
- ARAIA. Festival
Internacional de Teatro de
Humor (International
Comedy Theatre Festival -
August).
- DURANGO. Basque
Book and Record Fair at
which most of the years
Basque language
production is presented.
(December).
- ERRENTERIA.
Musikaste, classical
music week (May).
- GETXO. International
Jazz Festival. This event
differs from other Basque
festivals due to its
European adjective
(June).
- PORTUGALETE.
International Folklore
Festival (July).
- TOLOSA.
The International
Choral Competition
with top level participants
(October).
Festival Internacional
de Marionetas
(International
Puppet Festival -
November).
Bilbao
22 22 22
ere, eating means much more than simply
covering a basic need. Gastronomy forms an
important part of the everyday life of the
Basques, who discuss, negotiate and get to know
each other better over a meal. Excellent traditional
cookery, based on only the best of ingredients, and
the innovating author cuisine now well known
beyond our borders, mean that the visitor can and
must choose from a variety as wide as it is
delicious.
Donostia-San Sebastin has the highest number
of Michelin stars per square metre in the planet,
although the entire Basque Country offers any
amount of opportunities to delight the palate,
whether in the big restaurants or in the more
modest establishments.
The Basque Country was already internationally
famous for its delicious traditional cuisine when a
group of new chefs decided to take a number of
these dishes and renew them on the basis of their
imagination. This movement, which was soon to
become known as Basque nouvelle cuisine, was
moulded in the mid-70s by a series of young chefs
whose point of reference was the French cookery of
the same name.
Participants in this said culinary revolution were
local restaurateurs including Subijana, Irizar,
Fonbellida, Castillo, Argiano or Juan Mari Arzak,
undisputed number one of a style that has caused
an upheaval in Basque restaurants, and
particularly in Gipuzkoa, with new aromas,
textures, combinations and methods of
preparation.
This said, modern restaurateurs continue
to base their dishes on the two secrets of
traditional Basque cuisine: high quality ingredients
and seasonal products.
Today, those young chefs are maestros of
renowned prestige, whose creativity falls under the
title of so-called author cuisine.
Despite their high social standing, the top
restaurateurs still lead a surprisingly practical life.
Its not unusual to see any of these figures of
world-wide renown in the gastronomic field doing
their own shopping at the market, passing on some
of their recipes in the media or rubbing elbows at
the cookery schools with the new generations of
restaurateurs, with an end to ensuring the
continuity of this delicious new gastronomy.
A country of fish lovers
In addition to this said phenomenon of author
cuisine which visitors will have to taste for
themselves, always of course keeping in mind that
quality has its price is the ever-popular Basque
traditional cuisine, which continues to employ the
ingredients responsible for its fame, high quality
products from the surrounding areas and simple
but delicious meals.
THE LOVE OF GOOD FOOD
H
Extremely high-quality
products and the love
with which they are
prepared are the bases
of delicious Basque
cuisine, whether
traditional or nouvelle.
23
MINIATURE PLEASURES.
You dont have to sit at a
table to eat well in the
Basque Country. The
ritual known as txikiteo,
i.e. going from bar to bar
in groups and drinking
txikitos (small glasses of
wine) or zuritos (the same
of beer) is now
accompanied by the
partaking of tempting
hors doeuvres, known as
pintxos. Although some of
these delicacies are
simple, other much more
sophisticated versions
have earned the name
of miniature cuisine.
Many bars proudly
exhibit their own
creations and
specialities.
Youll not be able to
resist the temptation.
STRANGE-LOOKING
DISHES.
There are at least two
local dishes that never
fail to catch the eye of
the outsider. One of these
is squid cooked in its ink,
hence the not very typical
black sauce. But dont be
put off, youll love it. The
other one is
elvers, baby
eels that
look a bit
like worms.
Fried with a hot
pepper in an
enamelled clay
dish, they are
absolutely
delicious. Its
traditional to eat them on
the evening before San
Sebastian Day, but their
scarcity and astronomical
price is obliging
establishments to use
surimi substitutes.
VERY SWEET.
Although the cakes and
pastries produced in
Vitoria-Gasteiz are of
justifiable fame, almost
every town and village in
the Basque Country has
its own typical
sweetmeat. The goxuas,
vasquitos and neskitas of
Vitoria-Gasteiz, the
custard-filled hojaldres of
Laguardia, the pasteles
de arroz and custard-
filled canutillos of Bilbao,
the baracaldesitas of
Barakaldo, the kokotxas
of Markina, the
pantxineta of Donostia-
San Sebastin, the
opillas given by
godmothers from Irun
and Hondarribia, the
tejas and xaxus of Tolosa
and the rellenos of
Bergara are all well worth
the taste.
THE CIDER RITUAL.
The habit of going to
cider houses or hangars
where cider is made has
now become an
unusual
gastronomic
alternative.
During
the season, from January
to May, these cider
houses are
enthusiastically attended
by lively crowds who
come to drink the cider
flowing from a tap in the
barrels or kupelas while
eating cod
omelette,
T-bone
steak,
walnuts,
quince
jelly and
cheese.
Its
normal
in the
traditional
cider houses
to dine standing up,
thus making it easier to
wander to and from the
kupelas for
replenishment.
23 23
Taking a stroll through the Basque harbours at meal times means finding oneself
enveloped in the warm smell of grilled sardines or txitxarro (mackerel). This blue fish,
brought in by the coastal fishermen, is barbecued outdoors, and served fresh and
flavoursome, with only a touch of hot oil, vinegar, garlic and hot pepper.
You mustnt miss the sardines which, though typical of Santurtzi, are to be found
all along the coast, or the anchovies and bigger fish such as the aforementioned
mackerel or ventresca (underside) of bonito.
THE FLAVOUR OF THE HARBOURS
ENJOY YOUR
MEAL, SIR.
THE LOVE OF GOOD FOOD
24
The star of local cuisine is fish from either the
Basque coast or from the far-off fishing-grounds
which the local arrantzales or Basque fishermen
have been working for centuries.
Hake, bream, bonito and cod, all prepared in
different ways, are the main fish used in local
recipes, which nevertheless also contemplate the
more humble species, such as sardines or
anchovies, or others like turbot, monkfish or sea-
bass.
A number of basic, light sauces, such as the
delicate green or pil-pil sauces, extract the
essence of the fish without altering either its
texture or its flavour. The Basques have always
known how to make the most of the products
offered by the earth and the sea, hence the
incorporation to their cuisine of kokotxas - the
small, gelatinous, smooth flavoured barbel of hake,
the cogote, or top half of the fish, also of hake, or
the ventresca or underside of bonito.
Squid, cooked in its traditional and highly
original black ink or sauted with onion and
peppers a lo Pelayo are classic dishes in Basque
restaurants, as is the greatly appreciated spider
crab.
Meat is to be found most often in the recipes of
lava-Araba, the best known province for its
delicious lamb dishes. In Gipuzkoa and Bizkaia,
most people prefer the T-bone steak, and even
more so if it happens to be ox. Barbecued, with a
crisp coating on either side and red and juicy on
the inside, this is the star of rural cuisine.
Vegetables are particularly delicious in lava-
Araba, where juicy stews are made with a whole
range of greens. Other dishes of this kind are
vainas (green beans) or porrusalda (leek and potato
soup) and pisto (fried vegetable hash).
Perhaps the most typical product of Basque
market gardens are kidney beans, particularly from
Gernika-Lumo and Tolosa. Mushrooms, highly
appreciated in the Basque Country, are likewise
found in a number of delicious dishes.
Delicious wines
These succulent dishes have the perfect
complement in equally delicious wines. Despite its
relatively small size, the produce of the Rioja alavesa
is perfectly capable of competing with the best wines
in the world. Reds from this area are denominated
crianza, reserva or gran reserva depending on the
amount of time they spend in oak barrels.
Another local beverage is txakoli, a young, fresh
and fruity white wine which has recently started
making a name for itself outside of the Basque
Country. But we mustnt forget the cider which we
can taste at the cider houses themselves.
Astigarraga, Hernani and Usurbil, in Gipuzkoa, are
the villages with the highest number of these
raucous establishments.
THE LOVE OF GOOD FOOD
The signature cuisine
has brought creativity
and art to dish
preparation and there
are outstanding
representatives of it in
the Basque Country.
THE LOVE OF GOOD FOOD
25
RIOJA ALAVESA WINE. A
sub-zone within the
prestigious Rioja
denominacin de origen
qualification, the wines
produced in the Rioja
alavesa region are
appreciated all over the
world. Red wines from
this area are never
disappointing, even when
talking in terms of fruity
young wines, and attain
high standards of quality
with time, whether as
crianza, reserva or gran
reserva wines. Dont leave
without trying them. But
although the highest
quantity and quality is to
be found among the reds,
made with a high
percentage of tempranillo
grapes, the area also
produces highly palatable
red and ros wines.
Association of Rioja Alavesa
Wine Cellars- ABRA
C/ Berberana, 5
01300 Laguardia (lava)
Tel. 945 60 02 78
Fax. 945 62 10 78
www.riojalavesa.com
[email protected]
TXAKOLI. Of medieval
origin, txakoli is a fresh,
slightly sparkling white
wine with a hint of acidity.
Its personality comes from
the two local strains of
grape, Hondarribi zuri and
Hondarribi beltza.
There are three different
denominaciones de origen
in the Basque Country,
Txakoli de Getaria, Txakoli
de Bizkaia and Txakoli de
lava.
LAVA
Control Board of the
Designation of Origin Txakoli
de lava
C/ Dionisio Aldama 7, 1D
Apdo. 36. 01470 Amurrio
Tel: 656 78 93 72
Fax: 945 39 37 86
[email protected]
BIZKAIA
Control Board of the
Designation of Origin
Bizkaiako Txakolina
B Garaiolza, 23.
48196 Lezama
Tel: 94 455 50 63
www.bizkaikotxakolina.org
[email protected]
GIPUZKOA
Control Board of the
Designation of Origin
Getariako Txakolina
Parque Aldamar, 4.
20808 Getaria.
Tel/Fax: 943 14 03 83
www.getariakotxakolina.com
[email protected]
IDIAZABAL CHEESE.
Strong with high acidity,
Idiazabal cheese is made
according to the
centuries-old recipe of
Basque shepherds.
This cured cheese,
matured for a minimum of
two months, is made
exclusively with pure latxa
sheeps milk and animal
rennet. There are both
smoked and unsmoked
varieties.
CRDOP Idiazabal cheese
Granja modelo de Arkaute, s/n
01192 Arkaute (lava)
Tel. 945 28 99 71
Fax. 945 12 13 86
www.quesoidiazabal.com
[email protected]
Outstanding among the
excellent food to be found
on Basque markets are a
selection of meats and
vegetables bearing the
Kalitatea label of
quality.
For example, the
PIMIENTOS DE
GERNIKA, as flavoursome
as they are refined. These
peppers are long, thin and
green in colour. Hotter,
but not excessively so, are
the GUINDILLAS DE
IBARRA. Green-yellow in
colour, these hot peppers
come in a mild vinegar
and salt mixture.
Dried vegetable lovers
cant leave without trying
a plate of traditional
Basque ALUBIAS (red
kidney beans).
Grown in small
market gardens,
the best varieties
are
from Tolosa,
Gernika-Lumo,
and the pinta
alavesa strain.
Other everyday
ingredients
include local
products of
guaranteed quality,
such as the traditional
PATATA DE ALAVA
(potatoes from lava-
Araba), or the TOMATE
DE CALIDAD DEL PAIS
VASCO (Basque
tomatoes).
The star of the butchers
counter is the CORDERO
LECHAL DEL PAIS VASCO
(suckling lamb). Highly
appreciated, this meat
comes from the local latxa
and carranza breeds.
Likewise covered by this
label are the CARNE DE
VACUNO DE CALIDAD
(beef) and the POLLO DE
CASERIO (farmhouse
chicken) raised on corn in
the traditional style.
BONITO DEL NORTE
(white tuna) is likewise
fished and canned by
traditional methods, as is
CIMARRON (pink tuna).
LECHE PASTERIZADA DE
CALIDAD (pasteurised
milk) can be sweetened
with another excellent
product, MIEL DEL PAIS
VASCO. Untreated and
with a high pollen purity,
this honey maintains all of
its properties.
Alubias from Tolosa, local suckling lamb with peppers from Gernika
and Idiazabal cheese. All washed down, of course, with a good Rioja
alavesa wine. This menu includes only some of the excellent local
produce of a land that so lovingly pampers the ingredients of its
delicious gastronomy. Lets take a look at the 100% local produce
backed by the authorities responsible for granting the denominacin
de origen qualification or by the Basque label of quality, Kalitatea.
LABEL OF QUALITY
Designation of Origin
TOP-CLASS FOOD AND DRINK
Idiazabal
cheese
Txakoli Rioja alavesa
wine
DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN
NATURE
ambling plains, mountain ranges, green
forests, rich marshes and relaxing beaches.
Nature lovers have plenty to discover in the
Basque Country.
Although the wide range of beautiful and rugged
landscape is easily found in the nature reserves, it
is also a feature of many other parts of the
province. Deep countryside is only minutes from
the towns and cities. Both active tourism
enthusiasts and those only coming along for the
views will be in their element.
But its not all green. The Basque Country offers
any amounts of different landscapes sure to
delight lovers of the open countryside: steep cliffs
and gentle beaches in the coastal cities; green
valleys set around little rivers; mountainous
ranges offering all sorts of pleasant walks;
sweeping plains with a different
colour and climate.
Despite its high population
density, almost 290
inhabitants per square
kilometre, and the heavy
industrialisation of certain areas,
with their subsequent environmental problems,
the Basque Country has nevertheless managed to
preserve its natural resources. Proof of this are the
several nature reserves making it possible to enjoy
flora and fauna in their virtually pure state.
Humid and dry
The little over 7,200 km
2
covered by the Basque
Autonomous Community offers two main kinds of
landscape. On the one hand is the wide, green,
humid and mountainous coastal belt of Bizkaia
and Gipuzkoa, and the mountains of lava-Araba.
On the other, the extensive, dry meridional plains
of southern lava-Araba as they head towards the
landscape and climate of the succeeding Castilian
meseta. The Alavese plain serves as an area of
transition between the two extremes.
This difference is clearly reflected in the local
hydrographic attributes. The rivers flowing into the
Bay of Biscay (Mayor, Ibaizabal-Nervin, Butrn,
Oka, Lea, Artibai, Deba, Urola, Oria, Urumea and
Bidasoa) are fairly short, steep and run along the
bottom of little valleys. On the other side of the
mountains, however, the rivers of lava-Araba
become wider and meander a while before their
waters flow into the river Ebro in the Rioja alavesa
region.
These two hydrographic areas are likewise
responsible for different climates. In the north,
the weather is oceanic, with mild temperatures in
both winter and summer and a fair amount of
rain. In the south, however, the climate is
catalogued as being of the continental kind, that
is, dryer but with more extreme temperatures.
R
The river Leizarn and
its banks, in Gipuzkoa,
has been granted the
qualification of protected
biotope. This is one of
the many areas offered by
the Basque Country to
nature lovers.
26
AN INLAND SEA.
Although its no surprise
to discover that the entire
range of water sports can
be practised in a country
such as this, looking as it
does out over the Bay of
Biscay, it is a bit more
remarkable to discover
that you can go
swimming, sailing, wind
surfing and canoeing
miles from the coast. The
north of lava-Araba is
home of the reservoirs on
the river Zadorra, real
inland seas on which
water-sport enthusiasts
can enjoy themselves to
the full. Urrunaga
artificial lake even has
an international regatta
course.
SINK THAT BALL.
Txema Olazabals
homeland offers golfers a
number of places in
which to hit a ball round
the course. The clubs:
Donostia-San Sebastin,
Basozabal and Zarautz in
Gipuzkoa; Neguri and
Laukariz in Bizkaia; and
Zuia Larrabea and Izki in
lava-Araba, all offer
visitors the chance of a
round.
OFF AT A TROT.
Over thirty
riding
clubs and schools invite
you to set out on a short
horseback outing in most
parts of the Basque
Country, although the
peaceful regions of las
Encartaciones in Bizkaia
and the western valleys of
lava-Araba are
particularly suitable for
excursions of this kind.
The smallest members of
the family can have a
ride on a pottoka, the
gentle local breed of
horse.
HIT THE SKIES. The
Basque winds are perfect
for those with a love of
flying, and in fact a
number of delta plane
and paragliding clubs
and associations often
bring colour to the
local skies.
According to
the adepts, the
best places for
these activities are
Sopelana, on the coast,
where you land on the
beach, and the hillsides
of Talaimendi (Zarautz)
and Ulia (Donostia-San
Sebastin). Inland we
mustnt forget Ordua,
the rocky walls of which
saw the first delta plane
flights in the country,
and the foothills
of mount Ernio in
Gipuzkoa.
UP TO THE VERY TOP.
The Basque Country is a
place of mountains and
excursions, whether on
foot or atop a mountain
bike, one of the great
local pleasures. Follow
the coloured indications
and set off for a short
hike along the nearby
mountain trails. For those
preferring the heights,
the highest summit in the
Basque Country is
Aitxuri, on the Aizkorri
massif. To reach its
1,551 metres above sea
level, standing astride the
provinces of Gipuzkoa
and lava-Araba, youll
have to cross the
beautiful open fields of
Urbia. Other summits for
mountaineers are the
Gorbea massif (1,481
m), Aratz (1,441 m),
Pea del Castillo (1,432
m), Txindoki (1,346 m)
and Anboto (1,331 m).
From the highest peak
you can plunge down into
the depths thanks to the
potholing permitted in a
number of caves and
chasms.
27
NATURE
FOR THE
EXTREMELY
ACTIVE
The untamed Bay of Biscay, with its particularly
huge waves towards late summer and throughout
autumn, makes the Basque Country ideal for surfers. Its
a common sight to see groups of youngsters dotted all
over the local coastline waiting for the chance to get a
wave.
But its the beaches of Mundaka (Bizkaia) and
Zarautz (Gipuzkoa) that are best known to lovers of this
sport. Both are settings for spectacular international
competitions, and experts on the subject say that
Mundaka has the best left-hand wave in Europe.
GET A WAVE
28
NATURE
Peas de Aia, a rocky islet
The surface of the Basque Country could be
compared to a crumpled piece of paper coated in
green, where mountain ranges give way to deep
valleys, rivers and countless interesting geological
formations such as the Peas de Aia or Aiako
Harria which, now standing for over three hundred
million years, is the only granite massif in the
country and the oldest mountain to boot.
We mustnt forget that during the second epoch,
todays Peas de Aia was actually an islet rising
out of the sea. It wasnt until well into the same
era that it rose to the surface and became a part
of the Basque landscape.
The medium-height mountains so typical of
todays Basque landscape have endowed the
locals with a deep-rooted love of mountaineering
excursions. The visitor can also set off into the
mountains, virtually all of which have well
indicated itineraries that they can follow either on
foot or atop a mountain bike. Thats the best way
to discover the rambling beech and oak forests
that have survived the massive plantation of pino
insignis.
Natural areas
The Basque Country currently has a number of
protected natural areas, as well as others in the
process of acquiring this qualification, in which
important fauna and flora recovery projects are
underway. Urkiola, Valderejo, Izki, Gorbeia, Aralar
and Aiako Harria already have the denomination of
Nature Reserve, while the Urdaibai wetland has
the title of Biosphere Reserve. These natural lungs
conserve an important heritage, with a wealth of
flora and fauna consisting both of typical central
European species and others from further south.
Particular attention should be paid to Gorbeia
Nature Reserve, which straddles the provinces of
lava-Araba and Bizkaia, with its constant
population of deer and roe deer, not to mention
other mammals such as the wild boar, the otter
and the European mink.
Valderejo, on the far western extreme of lava-
Araba, is another symbolic spot. The gorge of the
river Purn, which runs through the valley, offers a
spectacular landscape with beautiful waterfalls
and pools. The park also houses of a wealth of
fauna which is often, as is the case of the Griffon
vulture (symbol of the park), easy to spot.
Special mention should be made of the Bizkaian
area of Urdaibai, declared Biosphere Reserve by
the UNESCO in 1984. The fluvial valley giving
shape to the Gernika estuary forms the biggest
wetland in the Basque Country. Urdaibai is an
example of ecological diversity, and is a privileged
observation point for birdwatchers.
Seeking out the different animal species in this
environment is, together with the pleasure of
casting the eye over its beautiful landscapes, one
Beech woods, pinewoods,
Holm-oak woods and
gall-oak woods offer their
range of colours in the
Valderejo Natural Park,
located at the boundary
of lava-Araba
with Burgos.
To the east of Gipuzkoa,
comprising sheer walls
topped with granite
rocks, the Peas de Aia
have oak and beech
forests, interesting
fauna, the Landarbaso
caves, and the Aarbe
reservoir.
Beech and oak trees coat
the Aizkorri massif, the
highest mountain range
in the Basque Country
and a natural border
between Gipuzkoa and
lava-Araba. The open
fields of Urbia are simply
magnificent.
The extremely beautiful
Aralar mountain range,
presided over by the
impressive mount
Txindoki, continues into
the province of Navarre.
Limestone and any
amounts of water have
made the Aralar Nature
Reserve into a succession
of chasms, underground
currents and springs that
force their way up to the
surface amid magnificent
forests.
Standing on the far eastern
extreme of lava-Araba, the
beech forests of this sierra
are a continuation of similar
extensions on the Sierra de
Urbasa in Navarre.
The Gorbeia massif covers
21,000 hectares split into
three different biotopes. Its
southern peaks and slopes
are the home of beech
forests and bigger
mammals (deer, roe deer,
wild boar, etc.).
The oak woods on the
hillsides facing towards the
north have gradually
disappeared. And looking
skywards from the massif,
we are quite likely to spot
carrion-eating birds.
The area surrounding the
limestone peaks of the
Alavese mountains is
covered with Pyrenean
oak and huge chestnut
trees and otters are to be
found in its rivers.
Slotted between the
Urola and Oria rivers and
in addition to its natural
attractions, this breath of
fresh air for the north of
Gipuzkoa also
accommodates the
Agorregi mill and forge.
To the Western end of
Bizkaia, the calcareous
massif of Ranero is
drilled by more than
two hundred caves
and chasms, such
that of Pozalagua.
Several species of bats
in danger of extinction
live there.
Standing round the
Gernika estuary, Urdaibai
is one of the Basque
Countrys natural treasures.
Its diversity of habitat has
earned it the UNESCO
qualification of Biosphere
Reserve. Ornithologists
will be highly impressed at
the number of birds to be
found in the area due to
the fact that it serves as a
resting and wintering spot
for species from outside
the peninsula.
Vultures, peregrine
falcons, Egyptian vultures
and green lizards live
amid its rocky heights.
Although the Basque
name Urkiola actually
means birch, its forests
mainly contain beech and
holm oak trees.
Valderejos principle
attraction is a wealth of
fauna and vegetation.
With just a little
patience, we will be able
to spot species including
the Griffon vulture, the
peregrine falcon or the
golden eagle. But we are
also likely to see the roe
deer, the wild boar or the
mountain cat.
Urkiola 10
Valderejo 11
NATURAL SPACES
NATURE
Aizkorri 2
Aralar 3
Sierra of Entzia 4
Gorbeia 5
Izki
Pagoeta 7
Arman
Natural Park
8
B
A
D
E
C
6
3
7
1
9
10
5
11
8
2
4
6
29
Aiako Harria 1
Urdaibai Biosphere
Reserve
9
Golden eagles and Griffon vultures. Wild boar and mountain
cats. Beech and oak trees. These are some of the Basque
Countrys other inhabitants. To see them, simply take
a close look at any of the several nature reserves dotted
throughout the country.
Humid extensions with magical mountains and
legendary chasms in which to enjoy the charms of nature.
PROTECTED
BIOTOPES
FUTURE PROTECTED
BIOTOPE
Located in the surroundings
of Zarautz urban area, the
Protected Biotope of
Inurritza constitutes the
widest and best conserved
dune field in the coast of the
Autonomous Community of
the Basque Country.
Moreover, it includes a small
rocky sea outcrop and some
marsh remnants.
To the north-east of Gorbeia,
Itxina gives us an excellent
look at a typical karst
landscape, where water has
worn the rock into
depressions, caves and
underground rivers.
Three temporary wetlands
and a permanent lake, that
of El Prao, form this
Alavese biotope with its
peculiar vegetation. Several
birds can be spotted in the
area.
Not far from Andoain, the
river Leizaran and its banks
are ideal for a pleasant
walk.
One of the most beautiful
spots in Euskadi has
likewise earned the
consideration of protected
biotope. This is the little
isle of Gaztelugatxe,
connected to the coast of
Bizkaia by a narrow strip of
land.
Between Zumaia and Deba,
the coast hides spectacular
geological formations and
the richest marine ecosys-
tem in the Basque coast.
Itxina
Laguardia
B
C
Tidal zone F
Leizaran D
San Juan of
Gaztelugatxe
E
Inurritza A
NATURAL SPACES
F
of the attractions of the different nature reserves
that bring a breath of fresh air to the Basque
Country.
Those wishing to discover the local fauna in a
more comfortable fashion can visit the Parque
Ecolgico de Bizkaia, at El Carpn estate,
Carranza, in the Encartaciones region. This
attractive park, which houses an animal recovery
centre and a nature classroom, provides shelter to
a number of bears, deer, roe deer, mountain cats,
badgers, wild boar, eagles, falcons, owls and
several other species.
The coast, multiplied by 252
One of the great attractions of the Basque
Country, not to mention its mountains and nature
reserves, is its coastline. The 252 kilometres of
cornice flanking the Bay of Biscay alternate
between steep cliffs some of which are quite
high river outflows, the occasional mudflat of
important ecological interest, and beaches
carpeted with fine sand.
Most Basque beaches offer good services and
the chance to practise a whole range of water
sports. The bays of Hondarribia, Donostia-San
Sebastin and Plentzia are excellent for
windsurfing and yachting. The lively swell of the
Bay of Biscay gives rise to particularly good
surfing areas. Although Zarautz, Zumaia and
Sopelana attract hordes of surfers, the most
popular spot is Mundaka.
The bottom of the sea is also a good place to
have fun, and there are several recommended
diving points, such as the capes of Billano,
Matxitxako and Ogoo, in Bizkaia, or the coastal
areas of Igeldo and Jaizkibel in Gipuzkoa. The
Basque coast offers boat owners seven marinas:
Getxo, Plenzia, Bermeo, Lekeitio, Getaria,
Donostia-San Sebastin and Hondarribia.
30
NATURALEZA
30
Arrigunaga (Getxo) 5
Getxos fourth beach isnt the
easiest to get to, but it is the
cleaner.
Gorrondatxe-Aizkorri
(Getxo)
6
This wide, open beach gets
its name for the huge waves
that so delight the surfers.
Barinatxe-La Salvaje
(Getxo-Sopelana)
7
Sopelanas two long, peaceful
beaches are virtually
connected to one another.
Arrietara-Atxabiribil
(Sopelana)
8
Sand and stones in the area of
Barrika, for those who fancy
lonely places.
Mekaoz (Barrika) 9
Small and sheltered, this is a
favourite spot for nudists.
Barrika (Barrika) 10
Also known as La Cantera (The
Quarry), this small nudist
beach is sheltered by rock
strata.
Muriola (Barrika) 11
Plentzia (Plentzia) 12
Its rambling sands and safe
sea are a great family
attraction.
Gorliz (Gorliz) 13
Near the area of Armintza, this
small stone beach is located in
a coastal inlet.
Armintza (Lemoiz) 14
In the township of Muskiz, this
is the westernmost beach in
Biscay and one of the most
popular.
La Arena 1
Zierbenas Beach, almost a
hundred metres long, appears
during the low tide.
Zierbena 2
A small sandy spot that is very
close to the Biscay Transporter
Bridge.
Las Arenas (Getxo) 3
Easy to reach with a whole
range of services, this beach
stands right in the middle of
Getxo. Its waves are a great
attraction for surfers.
Ereaga (Getxo) 4
7
16
17
28
30
1
6
24
25
26
15
31
4
5
9
8
12
13
18
19
20
21
22
27
29
39
40
Bilbao
43
44
36
37
38
41
42
33
2
3
10
11
14
32 35
46
23
34
Lekeitio
49 FABULOUS
Here you can bathe with a view
of passing merchant ships,
such as those making their way
in and out of El Abra (mouth of
the river Nervin). Next to the one in Gorliz, it is
very often visited by the
canoeing and windsurf
practitioners.
31
NATURALEZA
31
Long, open, clean and well
equipped, this is a great spot
for surfing and diving.
Bakio (Bakio) 15
Rocks form natural pools in
this small beach. To arrive
there we will have to go down a
slope.
Aritxatxu (Bermeo) 16
Hondartzape (Mundaka) 17
Not very big, but well known
by half of the surfers in the
world.
Laidatxu (Mundaka) 18
Small, it sticks out to the
estuary of Mundaka.
Toa (Sukarrieta) 19
It is also in the estuary of
Mundaka, its main visitors are
the locals.
San Antonio (Sukarrieta) 20
It is the main beach out of the
ones in the estuary of
Mundaka.
Kanala (Gautegiz-Arteaga) 22
At the mouth of the Gernika
Estuary, this beach offers great
views of the area. Its size
varies greatly depending on
whether the tide is in or out.
Laida (Ibarrangelu) 23
The mountains tumble right
down onto the beach with
Ogoo rock, making for one of
the most beautiful spots on the
Basque coast.
Laga (Ibarrangelu) 24
A small beach set in a fishing
village.
Ea (Ea) 25
It is surrounded by flysh (rocks
in sheets) and it is an ideal
corner for those who enjoy
beautiful landscapes.
Ogeia (Ispaster) 26
Isuntza (Lekeitio) 27
By the harbour, this is a nice
beach of medium size opposite
Saint Nicholas isle.
The last beach of Biscay to the
East is usually very crowded.
Arrigorri (Ondarroa) 29
The enormously popular
Saturrarn beach, with its
unmistakable rocky silhouette,
stands between the villages of
Ondarroa and Mutriku.
Saturraran (Mutriku) 30
Mutriku offers nudists and
underwater divers a series of
rocky coves.
Seven beaches (Mutriku) 31
This small stretch of shoreline
is to be found at the harbour
outlet.
Puerto (Mutriku) 33
This cove surrounded by cliffs
is well-esteemed by surfers
and scuba divers.
Arbe (Mutriku) 34
Ondarbeltz (Mutriku) 35
Next to the town and river
mouth of the same name,
Deba is a pleasant urban
beach.
Deba (Deba) 36
Sakoneta (Deba-Zumaia) 37
A pretty, clean strand
surrounded by cliffs.
Itzurun (Zumaia) 38
The attractive beach beside
the wetland at the mouth of
the river Urola in Zumaia
where Zuloaga loved to paint.
Santiago (Zumaia) 39
By the N-634 (coast road), it
is a small beach located on the
other side of Getaria.
Gaztetape (Getaria) 40
Malkorbe (Getaria) 41
2.5 km in length, this long
stretch of sand is popular with
both swimmers and surfers.
Zarautz (Zarautz) 42
This quiet beach was created
by the Oria River when flowing
into it. It is opposite Orio but
it, in fact, belongs to Aia.
Oribazar (Aia) 43
Waves beside the campsite
at the mouth of the river
Oria.
Antilla (Orio) 44
La Isla (Donostia-San
Sebastin)
45
The emblematic Ondarreta
beach faces Donostias bay
between Mount Igeldo and El
Loro Peak, which separates it
from La Concha Beach.
Ondarreta (Donostia-San
Sebastin)
46
The elegance and close
relation with the city of La
Concha Beach make its 1,370
metres become essential for
different generations.
La Concha (Donostia-San
Sebastin)
47
La Zurriola (Donostia-San
Sebastin)
48
Take a quiet dip on a long
stretch of sand running along
one side of Txingudi bay.
Hondarribia (Hondarribia) 49
Also known as Burumendi, this
is a nudist area between the
villages beach and the
Kardala Point.
3rd beach (Mutriku) 32
Karraspio (Mendexa) 28
San Cristbal (Busturia) 21
Constituted of sand spots,
a large proportion of this
beach in the estuary
disappears
when the tide
is high.
Donostia-
San Sebastin
49
48
BEACHES ON THE BAY OF BISCAY
Practically located in Lekeitio,
although it belongs to Mendexa,
this beach looks out towards
San Nicols island and is a
great spot for taking a dip.
Its thin and dark coloured sand
provides the name for this
small beach in Mutriku,
located near Deba.
Those who love getting away
from the crowds to the wilder
areas just have to seek out this
spot between Deba and Zumaia.
This relatively small and pretty
beach is sheltered from the
open sea by the Ratn de
Getaria and is the twin of
another local strand, Gaztetape.
The Kursaal Convention Centre
looks out over the rambling
sands of this beach in the Gros
neighbour-hood, a great favourite
with youngsters andsurfers.
Its tiny beach can be a good
excuse for visiting the
charming Island of Santa
Clara, in the very heart of La
Concha Bay.
We can visit this small cove
among rocks during the low
tide.
32
cross the Oati Valley
and get to ESKORIATZA,
with its complete
Ethnographic Museum
offering pleasant and
interactive explanations
on the relationship
between Basque people,
land, iron and several
emerged industries.
From the A-627, we take
the N-240 towards
Galdakao. We get into
Bizkaias territory through
the locality of ARTEA and
the Basque Farmhouse
Ecomuseum. We leave
the bucolic rural
vignettes of the Arratia
Valley and, following the
path of the N-240 road,
we get to the A-8
motorway. We need to
cover some kilometres in
the direction of Durango
to link to the BI-633 road
and be at the foot of
Mount Oiz. There is the
village of BOLIBAR,
sheltering a more than
interesting exhibition on
the ways of life during
the Middle Ages in the
Errementarikua
Farmhouse. The museum
is the perfect excuse to
get lost in the adjoining
valleys and to visit typical
villages like Aulestia.
We will need to retrace
our steps and lead to the
N-240 again. Once in
Alava, shortly after
arriving at the Urrunaga
Dam domains, we will
turn off to the OLLERIAS
Quarter in ELOSU, where a
ceramics workshop is still
working in the Basque
Ceramics Museum. This
space revives the story of
THEME ROUTES
We leave Donostia-San
Sebastin through the N-
I, towards Vitoria-Gasteiz.
The road is a showcase of
Gipuzkoas physiognomy
in the 21st century:
villages that have come
up in the world, factory
premises and, among
pine groves and lonely
hills, farmhouses, which
will not leave us during
the whole route. Near
Beasain, we take the GI-
632 road and then the
GI-3352, which will lead
us to the doors of EZKIO-
ITSASO, where we will find
the Igartubeiti
Farmhouse. At present, it
is a living museum where
we can know more about
the way of living and
working of the
baserritarras (who lived
and worked in the
farmhouses) in years
past.
Just a few kilometres
first through the GI-632
and the through the GI-
2630 separate us from
the rural quarter of
BRINKOLA, in Legazpi. It
is a pleasant and discreet
place, made up of a few
farmhouses, that housed
a river foundry in the
past. Near this point, in
Legazpis TELLERIARTE
Quarter, we will find the
Grazing Ecomuseum. We
Through
traditional
culture
Among farmhouses
The Basque Country is a land of contrasts since
the middle of the 19th century, when
industrialisation affected its landscapes, villages and
cities. Nowadays, the Basque Country still preserves
those marks of history, but also buildings, memories
and habits related to traditional culture, which go
back to centuries before.
these artisans and
explains the different
functions domestic,
religious... that this
activity involved formerly.
We get down to Vitoria-
Gasteiz and, from there,
we take the N-I and the
A-2622 roads until we
meet the spectacular
remains of another
extinct economic activity:
the wood platforms in
SALINAS DE AANA.
Salt is part of the
economic past of this
Alavas spot, unlike wine,
which is an active part of
the present and future in
the Rioja Alavesa
territories. The A-68 will
bring us to LAGUARDIA,
where we will find the
revealing Villa Luca
Wine Museum and, near
through the A-124 and
A-3226 roads, the
Ethnography Museum of
Oyn-Oion, which
immortalises the habits
and customs of Rioja
Alavesas life.
Vitoria-Gasteiz
Bilbao
Segura
Tolosa
Azpeitia
Beasain
Lazkao
Galdakao
Bernedo
Gopegi
Leintz-Gatzaga
Legutiano
Ezkio-
Itsaso
Oiz
1026m
A
-
6
2
7
N
-
2
4
0
A-2622
Hondarribia
Irun
Errenteria
Zarautz
Andoain
Hernani
Azkoitia
Elorrio
Oati
Eibar
Legazpi
Arrasate-
Mondragn
Donostia-
San Sebastin
Brinkola
Eskoriatza
Artea
Bolibar
Elosu
Villanueva de
Valdegovia
Amurrio
Ordua
Murgia
Nanclares
de Oca
Salinas de
Aana
Laguardia
Oyn-
Oion
Labastida
Bermeo
Getxo
Durango
Lekeitio
Ondarroa
Mungia
Santurtzi
Balmaseda
Gernika-Lumo
Plentzia
Portugalete
Barakaldo
Llodio
Salvatierra
Arraia-Maeztu
Santa Cruz
de Campezo
Zambrana
A
-6
8
E
-8
0
4
N
-
1
G
I-
6
3
2
G
I-2
6
3
0
A
-8
E
-7
0
B
I-6
3
3
N-1
N
-
1
A
-6
8
E
-8
0
4
A-124
A-3226
Zumaia
Igartubeiti Farmhouse
Salinas de Aana
Our route starts in
Bizkaias capital, on the
banks of the Nervin
River estuary, where
Frank O. Gehry put up his
titanium and glass giant.
The Guggenheim Bilbao
houses a complete
permanent collection
with works by Richard
Serra, Andy Warhol,
Miquel Barcel or
Cristina Iglesias, in
addition to temporary
exhibitions. The outside
of the building is another
museum with outdoor
works like the floral
Puppy and a perfect
place for walking,
thinking and gazing at
the chromatic changes
the titanium undergoes
during the day.
The Guggenheim effect
was the main
representation of Bilbaos
renaissance. It is enough
to go through the city on
foot to come across the
glazed structures to
access the underground
by Norma Foster, the
Euskalduna Congress and
Music Palace or more
recent interventions such
as the urban space born
in the shelter of Isozakis
towers.
The A-8 motorway will
lead us to DONOSTIA-SAN
SEBASTIN, Eduardo
Chillidas birthplace,
where we can find the
sculpture site of El Peine
del Viento (The Wind
Comb). Taking the N-I
road towards Vitoria-
Gasteiz, and then the
turnoff towards Hernani
we will get to Chillida-
Leku, the open-air space
the sculptor himself
created and designed to
host a permanent
exhibition of his works.
The result is an intimate
and exquisite museum in
which sculptures and
drawings dot around the
different rooms of a 16th
century farmhouse and
the fields surrounding it.
If we take the N-I again
and go, first, towards
Beasain and, then,
towards Oati through
the GI-632, the GI-2630
and, finally, the GI-3520
roads we will get to the
Sanctuary of Aranzazu.
This controversial
building constructed in
the 50s became a real
artistic and architectural
laboratory, in which the
young Jorge Oteiza with
his unexpected 14
apostles and Eduardo
Chillida -with the design
of the temple gates- took
part. With its diamond
points, the building
evokes the hawthorns on
which the Virgin
appeared in the 15th
century.
The GI-2630 road leads
us to Arrasate-Mondragn
THEME ROUTES
Avant-garde capitals
On
contemporary
art
The opening of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao in 1997 was the culmination
of a long marriage process between the Basque Country and contemporary art.
Soon afterwards, the Chillida-Leku Museum, near Donostia-San Sebastin, and
the Artium Museum, in Vitoria-Gasteiz, were opened. Three capitals and three
unavoidable appointments with the most avant-garde artistic expression.
and, from there, the A-
627 towards VITORIA-
GASTEIZ, where we will
find the third part of this
Basque museum trilogy,
materialised in the
Artium, the Basque
Museum of Contemporary
Art. With educational
vocation and devoted to
the promotion of present,
past and future works,
the Artium is an exciting
route through the art that
has juts come out of the
20th century ovens.
Between the walls of this
open, modern and alive
space, there are works by
Pablo Picasso, Joan Mir
or Antoni Tpies, but also
by young rising stars from
Alava.
The last stone of this
route through
contemporary art is
located to the South of
the territory, in the very
heart of Rioja Alavesa.
We must follow the N-I
road up to Armin, then
take the A-124 and the
A-3212, where we will
see an amazing metal
structure sailing among
vineyards. This is the City
of Wine, also designed by
Frank O. Gehry and
located in ELCIEGO.
Vitoria-Gasteiz
Bilbao
Segura
Tolosa
Azpeitia
Beasain
Zumrraga
Lazkao
Urkiola
Galdakao
Bernedo
Legutiano
A
-
6
2
7
Irun
Errenteria
Zarautz
Andoain
Hernani
Azkoitia
Elorrio
Oati
Bergara
Eibar
Arrasate-
Mondragn
Donostia-
San Sebastin
Villanueva de
Valdegovia
Amurrio
Ordua
Murgia
Salinas de
Aana
Laguardia
Oyn-Oion
Bermeo
Getxo
Durango
Lekeitio
Ondarroa
Mungia
Santurtzi
Balmaseda
Gernika-Lumo
Plentzia
Portugalete
Barakaldo
Llodio
Salvatierra
Santa Cruz
de Campezo
Armin
N
-
1
G
I-6
3
2
G
I-2
6
3
0
A
-8
E
-7
0
N-1
N
-
1
A
-
3
2
1
2
Zumaia
Elciego
A
-8
E
-7
0
Chillida Leku
Arantzazu
N
-1
G
I-2
6
3
0
G
I-3
5
9
1
A
-
1
2
4
A
-1
2
4
Peacerrada
Guggenheim Bilbao
Sanctuary of Arantzazu
Chillida-Leku
Artium
33
Nueva Square (taking the
A-68 motorway again) to
know the world of pintxos
in situ.
We drive through the A-8
motorway and, at
Amorebieta, we take the
BI-635 towards GERNIKA.
On Monday, this town
celebrates one of the
most important
traditional markets of
this land, a real festival
of smells, colours and
flavours, with the
participation of more
than 350 sellers of the
comarca (land). Just a
few kilometres separate
us from BAKIO through
the BI-2121, BI-631 and
BI-3101 roads, a town
related to txakoli
production (white wine).
The grapes used for this
type of young white wine
brown in the hills of the
mountains surrounding
the town. The towns
cellars offers visits and
tastings.
We leave the coastal
Bizkaia and get back to
the A-8 motorway to get
into Gipuzkoa. There we
visit another village
related to txakoli with
Denomination of Origin.
It is GETARIA, where the
restaurants bordering the
port serve some of the
best fish and shellfish
We set off in the domains
of RIOJA ALAVESA, to the
South of the Basque
Country, in the most wine
area of the territory.
Reputable wines are born
under the Rioja
Denomination of Origin
in this landscape,
characterised by vineyard
rows. The towns of
LABASTIDA, LAGUARDIA
(linked by the A-124
road) and LAPUEBLA DE
LABARCA are the main
spearheads, although we
also find more than thirty
wine cellars opened for
visits and sales, through
the length and breadth of
this land.
We leave the Southern
lands, first through the
A-124, then through the
A-68 motorway towards
Bilbao. This road will
lead us next to the
Alavas locality of LLODIO,
which houses the Basque
Gastronomy Museum.
The centres walls shelter
a complete route through
the history of cooking,
machinery related to the
world of cuisine and
references to some of the
most famous cooks in the
Basque Country. After
the aperitif, we can make
a refuelling in BILBAOs
dishes. We drive towards
DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIN,
with its signature cuisine
restaurants and its pintxo
bars, although we can
also visit ASTIGARRAGA.
Between the months of
January and May, the
cider bars of this
Gipuzkoan locality throw
themselves into the ritual
of the txotx (getting the
cider directly from the
cask), the salt cod
omelette and the T-bone
steak.
From there, we will go
through the other
backbone of Gipuzkoas
territory, the N-1,
towards Vitoria-Gasteiz.
If our visit is on Saturday,
the best plan will be to
stop at TOLOSAs market.
If it is on Wednesday, the
ideal will be to visit
ORDIZIA, another mythical
market. Idiazabal is
located a few kilometres
to the South of Ordizia
and it is known due to
the cheese of the same
name: the Idiazabal
cheese, vigorous, slightly
acid and spicy. The
Idiazabal Interpretation
Centre reveals the
secrets of a centennial
and crafts making
process.
34
THEME ROUTES
On good
eating and
good drinking
With all the flavou
The Basque Countrys gastronomic fame is more
than deserved. The secrets? The use of excellent raw
material, the variety and, above all, a liking for
innovative ideas that have never come into conflict
with tradition. Lets go through those spots in the
Basque Countrys geography, putting to the test two
of the most grateful senses: taste and smell.
Rioja-Alavesa wine harvest
Txakoli grape
Traditional fair
Vitoria-Gasteiz
Bilbao
Segura
Tolosa
Azpeitia
Beasain
Zumrraga
Bernedo
Legutiano
Ordizia
Idiazabal
A
-8
E
-7
0
BI-2121
N
-
1
Irun
Zarautz
Andoain
Hernani
Azkoitia
Elorrio
Oati
Eibar
Arrasate-
Mondragn
Donostia-San
Sebastin
Villanueva de
Valdegovia
Amurrio
Ordua
Salinas de
Aana
Laguardia
Oyn-Oion
Bermeo
Getxo
Durango
Lekeitio Mungia
Santurtzi
Balmaseda
Gernika-Lumo
Plentzia
Barakaldo
Llodio
Salvatierra
Santa Cruz
de Campezo
Armin
Lapuebla
de Labarca
A
-1
2
4
Peacerrada
Elciego
Labastida
Astigarraga
Amorebieta A
-8
E
-7
0
Bakio
Getaria
A
-
6
8
E
-
8
0
4
B
I
-
6
3
5
B
I-6
3
1
B
I-3
1
0
1
G
I-1
3
1
THEME ROUTES
this road, we will go past
the summer town of
ZARAUTZ and see
GETARIAs mouse in the
horizon, crowned by a
romantic lighthouse. In
Getaria, the sea flavour
can reach our palates
shaped as a delicious
frilled fish.
When we get to DEBA, we
leave the N-634 and
take the GI-638, which
will lead us to MUTRIKU,
the last village in
Gipuzkoas coast, and to
ONDARROA, the first one
in Bizkaia, with a great
tradition in the canning
industry. LEKEITIO has a
more than pleasant
beach sheltered by the
San Nicols Island,
perfect for walking
before being immersed
again into the winding
road of Bizkaias coast,
the BI-3238. These
spots do not fail to
shelter villages with
fishing tradition, great
charm and a difficult
orography like EA born
on the banks of an
estuary or ELANTXOBE,
characterised by
vertiginous hills.
The mouth of the
Urdaibai Rivers estuary
will make us leave the
Cantabrian Seas
company for a moment
and, through the BI-638
and BI-2235 roads, get
to the surfer town of
MUNDAKA and to BERMEO,
an important fishing port
with a strong canning
industry. All this is
pleasant and
illustratively manifested
in the Fishermen
Museum of the Ercilla
Tower, a building with a
solid presence and
excellent views over the
moored fishing fleet. The
Matxitxako Cape will give
us a complete panoramic
view both of the eastern
and the western Basque
coast. Near there gazes
San Juan de
Gaztelugatxe, one of the
landscape icons of the
Basque Country. We
We start in HONDARRIBIA,
separated from the
neighbour France by the
Bidasoa Rivers waters.
The La Marina Quarter,
located outside the old
quarter, welcomes us
with its typical
fishermens houses, with
white faades and
balconies painted in
lively colours. Santiago
and San Pedro streets
gather many restaurants
offering excellent menus
of fish and shellfish. We
will have to take the N-I
road to get to PASAI
DONIBANE (Pasajes San
Juan), fitted between the
sea and Mount Jazkibel,
where we find the
Ontziola, a traditional
shipyard in which
replicas of old ships,
with which our ancestors
plied the seas, using
already forgotten
techniques.
We get to DONOSTIA-SAN
SEBASTIN, with a port of
smart buildings that
hides, on one side, the
Naval Museum, a dear
collection of models,
prints and all types of
tackles revealing the
extensive Basque
maritime heritage. On
the other side, the port
also hides the Aquarium,
with its oceanarium
inhabited by sharks,
manta rays... and
modern facilities where
we can know more about
the treasures the
Cantabrian Sea hides.
We leave the capital and
continue through the N-
634 road that leads us to
ORIO, a fishing port in
which the last right
whale of the Cantabrian
Sea was captured in
1901. Without leaving
The Sea
Route
allow the curves and
caprices of the BI-3151
to carry us away in a
stroll through the main
summer towns in
Bizkaia, like PLENTZIA
which also has a
maritime museum, the
Plasentia de Butrn
Museum or Sopelana.
Finally, we get to BILBAO
through the BI-634 and
BI-637 roads, where the
Maritime Museum Ra de
Bilbao awaits us in the
grounds where the
shipyards were built in
years past.
Vitoria-Gasteiz
Bilbao
Tolosa
Azpeitia
Beasain
Galdakao
Bernedo
Gopegi
Leintz-Gatzaga
Legutiano
Hondarribia
Irun
Errenteria
Zarautz
Andoain
Hernani
Azkoitia
Elorrio
Oati
Eibar
Arrasate-
Mondragn
Donostia-San
Sebastin
Villanueva de
Valdegovia
Amurrio
Ordua
Murgia
Nanclares
de Oca
Salinas de
Aana
Laguardia
Oyn-Oion
Labastida
Bermeo
Durango
Lekeitio
Ondarroa
Mungia
Santurtzi
Balmaseda
Gernika-Lumo
Plentzia
Barakaldo
Salvatierra
Arraia-Maeztu
Santa Cruz
de Campezo
Zambrana
A
-6
8
E
-8
0
4
N
-
1
A
-8
E
-7
0
Deba
Mutriku
Elantxobe
Mundaka
Bakio
Zumarraga
Sopelana
Pasai
Donibane
Orio
Getaria
Matxitxako
Gaztelugatxe
N
-634
BI-3238
B
I-
6
3
8
B
I-
2
2
3
5
B
I-
3
1
5
1
BI-637
B
I
-
6
3
4
35
Mutriku
Urdaibai River mouth
Ra de Bilbao Museum
Looking over the Cantabrian Sea
A rough and stormy sea strip surrounds the
North of the Basque Country. The Cantabrian
Sea waters have not only shaped the landscape,
but also the feeling and living of the people from
the coast. Here is a route through their customs,
history, secrets and spots, from East to West,
following the same way the sun follows.
Hondarribia
lava possesses the rotundity and freshness of the charming small villages,
often surrounded by wide farmlands or in the shelter of mountain ranges.
The rural atmosphere can hide surprises shaped as old fortresses or
avant-garde architectural lines, like some of the excellent wine cellars in
Rioja Alavesa.
36
37
La Virgen de los Reyes,
sheltered beneath the
mullion of Laguardias
Santa Mara de los
Reyes church, is an
excellent example of
Gothic sculpture, and
still bears all of the
polychromy applied at
a later date by the
artist Francisco
de Ribero.
lava consist of several regions grouped
together under the one name. There are
the green valleys of the north and the
vines of the south. The tranquil reservoirs and the
spectacular waterfalls. But we mustnt forget the
beautiful capital, Vitoria-Gasteiz, and the welter
of small villages just waiting to be discovered.
A land of contrast in the province least
resembling the other two. Yet another reason for
visiting an area with countless open spaces and
monuments.
Alava is different. A series of distinguishing features
set it apart from the other two of the three provinces
making up the Basque Autonomous Community. An
assortment of landscapes not to be found in Bizkaia
and Gipuzkoa, a number of historical monuments
reflecting its past use as a place of passage as
opposed to the relative isolation of the north, the
greater importance of the agricultural sector, a
different demographic structure and even a different
climate, all define the outstanding beauty of Alava.
Contrary to the other two provinces in which the
population is spread over the entire area, the people
of Alava mainly live in the capital, Vitoria-Gasteiz,
residence of over three-quarters of the local
inhabitants.
With the exception of the occasional area dedicated
to industry (Llodio-Laudio, Amurrio, etc.), Alava
basically consists of small, rural villages dotted over
the area with relatively few inhabitants. Thats why
this province has so many important natural areas
which, as a result of this scarce industrialisation
the industrial revolution of Bizkaia and Gipuzkoa
has never taken place in Alava, to which buffered
development only arrived well into the 20th
century are still in very good condition. These areas
include the Valderejo Nature Reserve, Entzia and
Izki, the lakes of Laguardia and the three nature
reserves shared with the provinces of the north:
Gorbeia, Urkiola and Aizkorri.
The variety of landscape in this inland territory is
determined by the three mountain ranges running
through the area from east to west. The one located
furthest north marks the border between Alava and
the valleys of Gipuzkoa and Bizkaia while
maintaining the same landscape, with green vales
running between beech and oak-coated mountains
flecked with farmhouses and cattle.
Between the sierras of the north and a second line
of mountains slicing through the centre of the
province is a vast plain, known as the Llanada
alavesa, a land of transition in which we can already
appreciate the colours of the southern plains.
Further south, the Sierra de Cantabria is the last
natural obstacle before entering the lowlands of the
Rioja alavesa, home of the vineyards stretching to
the Ebro valley, where the landscape moulds into
the Castilian meseta.
This mixture of landscape and biology goes hand-in-
hand with climatic diversity. The northern strip of
Alava is therefore mild and humid, i.e. oceanic,
while the lands of the south have continental, dry
weather and more extreme temperatures. The
Llanada alavesa is once again a land of
transition as far as climate is concerned and
suffers from cold winters.
A PLACE OF PASSAGE
The early presence of man in both the
mountains and valleys of the south is
obvious from the abundance of
prehistoric remains ranging from the
dolmens of the Chabola de la Hechicera
(Elvillar, in the Rioja alavesa) and
Aizkomendi (Egilaz, in the Llanada
alavesa) to the community of La Hoya,
inhabited during the Iron Age.
Its easy access in comparison to the
mountainous provinces of Gipuzkoa and
Bizkaia means that Alava has always
been a place of passage open to the
influence of different peoples and
cultures. The Romans, who never
actually settled in the Atlantic valleys, set down roots
in the Llanada alavesa on what was then one of their
most important thoroughfares, the Astorga-Bordeaux
road. The Oppidum de Irua is one of the main relics
of Roman presence and was partly responsible for
agricultural development in the Ebro valley.
Christianisation and Latinisation planted their earliest
seeds in this same territory. The Muslim invasion,
which spread as far as southern Alava, established the
province as a link on the chain between Christianity
and Islam. The fortified villages of the Rioja alavesa
demonstrate the endeavours, formerly of the kings
of Navarre and subsequently by those of Castile, to
institute a permanent line of defence in the area.
37
A
lava-Araba
38 38
The Llanada has always been a busy natural
corridor, often used by pilgrims in the Middle Ages
as one of the alternative itineraries on the road to
Santiago de Compostela. Examples of Gothic art
are therefore often to be found in different parts of
Alava, as are mansions in Renaissance and
Baroque styles.
While nobility gained power during the Middle
Ages, the boroughs joined forces in an effort to
curb escalating banditry. But the lands of Alava
were also affected by the warring between
different lineages that was to set the Basque
Country on edge. Several tower-houses still stand
today, including that of the Ayala lineage, in
Quejana, or that of the Mendoza family, near
Vitoria-Gasteiz.
Administratively separated into cuadrillas
historical regional institutions Alava can be
divided into six natural areas: Llanada alavesa,
Valle de Ayala, Gorbeia-Aramaio, Kuartango-
Valdegova, Rioja alavesa and Montaa alavesa.
FROM THE PLAIN TO THE RESERVOIRS
Limited to the north by the Sierras de Urkilla and
Elgea, and to the south by the Sierra de Entzia
and the mountains of Iturrieta, the Llanada
alavesa is a wide corridor through which pilgrims
would make their way from Gipuzkoa to Santiago
de Compostela after having come through the
tunnel of San Adrin in the Aizkorri mountain
range.
Today it is no longer the road to Santiago, but
rather the N-1 from Irun to Madrid that runs
through this central region, presided over by its
capital, VITORIA-GASTEIZ, the suburbs of which
house the basilica of Nuestra Seora de Estbaliz,
patron saint of Alava. This 12th century temple,
standing atop the hills that dominate the plain, is
one of the best examples of Romanesque
architecture in the Basque Country. Outstanding
on the other side of Vitoria-Gasteiz are the
silhouettes of the Mendoza and Martioda towers,
fortifications related to two of the areas most
powerful families who spent the Middle Ages
fighting against one another.
Noteworthy to the east of the plain is SALVATIERRA/
AGURAIN, with its medieval old quarter and
numerous mansions. The nearby Aizkomendi
dolmens in EGUILAZ-EGILATZ, and Sorginetxe, in
ARRIZALA, date from earlier periods.
Another interesting place to the north of
Salvatierra-Agurain is ZALDUONDO, the parish
church of which, San Saturnino de Tolosa, has a
number of elements dedicated to Saint James. The
local carnival, the star of which is a character
known as Markitos, is among the most typical in
the Basque Country. Standing between Zalduondo
and ARRAIA-MAEZTU is the 10th century
LAVA-ARABA
One of the most sur-
prising images in the
Basque Country is
offered by the salt pans
of Salinas de Aana/
Gesaltza-Aana.
39
The name Rioja alavesa
is synonymous with
good wine, the culture
of which is omnipresent
in the vineyards, in the
numerous cellars or at
restaurant tables. But
thats not all. The best
known part of Alava
houses several
monuments bearing
witness to its sparkling
medieval past, the
passage of the Romans
or prehistoric periods.
Heading out of Vitoria-
Gasteiz via the A-2124
will take us through the
County of Trevio to our
first rendezvous,
PEACERRADA-
URIZAHARRA.
This village still has a
good part of its
medieval walls. Look for
the church of La
Asuncin with its
interesting Romanesque
doorway and beautiful
16th century altarpiece.
Just over the Sierra de
Cantabria via the puerto
de Herrera, we should
stop at the BALCON DE
LA RIOJA for fabulous
views over the lowlands
of the river Ebro.
Leaving the A-2124 via
the A-124, we will
come to LAGUARDIA
which, as well as
delightfully pretty, is
also the wine capital,
the most
important
village in
the region
and the
home of
several
interesting
historical
monuments.
Standing
on a small hill,
Laguardia still has its
initial medieval layout,
its walls, numerous
stately homes and a
fortified church at
either end of the
village. Also well worth
the effort is a stroll
along the walls
concealing a monument
dedicated to the fable
writer Samaniego,
getting lost in its narrow
streets, all pedestrian,
and, if were lucky
enough to be visiting at
12 a.m., taking a look
at the Town Hall clock
with
its dancing
figures.
In addition to the
lakes, now a
protected biotope,
the area around
Laguardia has a
number of other
attractions.
Towards the north
are the Los
Molinos
Ornithological
Park and the
remains of LA HOYA
village, which existed
between 1200 and 250
B.C. You can visit both
the site and its little
museum with a model
depicting life as it was
at that time.
Still on the subject of
prehistory, taking the
A-3228 will lead us to
ELVILLAR, on the
outskirts of which is
one of the gems of
megalithic art, the
Chabola de la
Hechicera dolmen. The
village itself houses the
solid 18th century Casa
del Indiano. Look out
for the snake on the
handrail as you climb
the stairs.
Back on the road, well
make our way through
ASSA, not far from the
Roman remains of
Mantible bridge, before
continuing on towards
the industrial OYN-
OION. Here the most
attractive features are
the church of Nuestra
Seora de la
Asuncin, and its
tower known as the
Giraldn, not to
mention a few
mansions, such as
those belonging to the
Marqus del Puerto
and to the Conde de
Burata.
Doubling back
westwards will take us
through LAPUEBLA
DE LABARCA, with its
numerous emblazoned
houses. This village
took its name from the
ferry that used to cross
the river Ebro at
precisely this point.
Our next stop will be
ELCIEGO and the
church of San Andrs
with its two curious,
asymmetrical
Renaissance towers.
Across from the Town
Hall, with an imperial
coat of arms on its
facade, is a hermitage
dedicated to the Virgen
de la Plaza.
The A-124 from
SAMANIEGO will take
us to LABASTIDA. We
strongly recommend a
visit to the local parish
church, dedicated to
the Virgen de la
Asuncin like so many
others in the Rioja
alavesa, with its
principal Baroque
altarpiece in walnut
wood. The hermitage
del Santo Cristo has a
peculiar Christ on the
Cross with one arm
pointing downwards, an
unusual gesture in
Christian iconography.
After having crossed the
last walled city,
SALINILLAS DE
BURADN, we will
return to Vitoria-Gasteiz
via the N-1.
RED WINES. Around two
hundred cellars produce the
delicious Rioja alavesa wines.
Some of them offer visits and
wine tasting.
POLYCHROMY. The doorway
of the church of Santa Mara
de los Reyes (Laguardia),
protected by the facade,
is the only one still sporting
its original polychromy.
ORGANISED. The inhabitants
of La Hoya had already started
organising their houses around
streets and squares by the
second Iron Age. This layout
is still visible today.
ENORMOUS. The stone slabs
forming the Chabola de la
Hechicera dolmen. This
funerary monument, dating
from 2100 B.C. is the most
outstanding in the area.
BIG. The walls of Peacerrada-
Urizaharra, vestige of its past
strategic importance. The
emblazoned houses and
interesting Gothic church are
also something of a surprise.
OPEN. The two arches leading
into the village, known as
Toloo and Larrazuria, are the
only parts of the ancient wall
still standing today.
VITORIA-
GASTEIZ
Oyn-Oion
Lapuebla
de Labarca
P
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A
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3
2
1
8
A-3226
Dolmen de La Chabola
de la Hechicera
P
o
b
la
d
o
d
e
la
H
o
y
a
A-3228
39
The birthplace of wine
TAKE A BREAK
40 40
LAVA-ARABA
The refreshing Ulibarri
and Urruaga reservoirs
to the north of Vitoria-
Gasteiz are perfect for
having a rest and
enjoying the scenery.
Romanesque hermitage of San Julin y Santa
Basilisa, one of the oldest in Alava. The Cistercian
monastery of Santa Mara de BARRIA is another of
the valleys historical elements.
One of the most attractive parts of Alava is the
area encompassing the Ullibarri and Urrunaga
reservoirs. Created for providing water to Vitoria-
Gasteiz and Bilbao, these artificial lakes, now the
biggest wetlands in the Basque Country, have
become real leisure centres at which to practise
water sports or observe aquatic birds. Standing on
their banks is Garaio nature reserve, not far
from GUEVARA, and the ruins of what was
one of the most impressive castles in Alava,
that of the Guevara family.
To the north of these reservoirs is
ARAMAIO VALLEY, an area concealed by
the mountains with scattered
neighbourhoods, magnificent farmhouses
and a carefully tended natural
environment. People have even been
known to refer to the area as the Basque
Switzerland.
THROUGH THE WESTERN VALLEYS
Valleys come thick and fast to the west of Vitoria-
Gasteiz. To the north-east are those of Zuia,
Ordua, Aiala, Nervin and Okondo, and to the
south-east, those of Kuartango and Valdegobia.
Numerous mountains and scarce industrialisation
make these valleys ideal spots for enjoying nature
to the full.
The valley nearest Vitoria-Gasteiz is that of Zuia,
the centre of which can be considered as
MURGUIA, now an overspill area for the capital.
The best views of this wooded valley are to be had
from the sanctuary of Nuestra Seora de Oro. Zuia
stands on the foothills of the Gorbeia massif, an
impressive natural, mountaineering and rural area
in which we could sing the song:
En el monte Gorbea, en lo ms alto, hay una cruz
de amor.... (In Mount Gorbea, at the highest
point, there is a cross of love...).
Between Zuia and Ayala is the valley of ORDUA,
a Bizkaian enclave on Alavese soil. Nearby,
in mid-Sierra Salvada, is the source of the river
Nervin, which proceeds to pound down over a two
hundred-metre drop. Another extremely beautiful
waterfall in the area is that of Goiuri, created by
the waters of the river Altube.
Ayala is a remote valley in the extreme north-east
of the province which played an essential part in
history as an area of connection between Castile
and the Bay of Biscay. With interesting places
including ARESPALDITZA and the industrial town
of AMURRIO, one of the areas most interesting
buildings is the Ayala tower-house in QUEJANA.
Very near the border with Bizkaia is the second
largest city in Alava as far as the number of
inhabitants is concerned, LLODIO-LAUDIO, which,
41
Fabulous reservoirs for
practicing all sorts of
sports, unpolluted green
areas, and the Llanada
alavesa with its variety
of outstanding
monuments are all part
of an interesting
itinerary.
Leaving Vitoria-Gasteiz
by the N-622 and
subsequently the
A-3608 will take us to
GOPEGUI, not far from
Gorbeia Nature Reserve.
Here you should seek
out the medieval
elements on the church
of La Asuncin and the
Torre de Goikoetxea.
The same A-3608 will
bring us out at the
N-240. Following this
road towards Legutiano
will lead us to the
URRUNAGA
RESERVOIR and
Olleras, in the ELOSU
neighbourhood, where
an ancient pottery
workshop now houses
the Museo de Alfarera
Tradicional Vasca.
Before actually entering
Legutiano, take the
A-623 from Alava to
Bizkaia and on into the
foothills of the Sierra de
Urkiola at OTXANDIO.
Take a look at the
Baroque facade of the
local Town Hall and at
the oath-taking
hermitage of San Martn
de Zelaieta.
OLAETA offers
extremely beautiful
views on the way into
(A-3841) the Aramaio
valley. High summits
surround this leafy
enclave, which is part
of the Urkiola Nature
Reserve.
Continue on to IBARRA,
known by the locals as
la calle. Note the
classical arcaded Town
Hall and the hermitage
of San Sebastin in the
village square.
Making our way down
the A-2620, we will at
last come into
LEGUTIANO through a
pointed arch of
medieval origin. This
borough stands right
beside the refreshing
Urrunaga artificial lake.
We will now change
reservoirs, coming to
ULLIBARI-GAMBOA, a
pretty village situated
on a piece of land
jutting out into the
reservoir itself. The area
has two sailing clubs.
The A-3014 will take us
round the lake before
heading southwards via
the A-3012 past the
ruins of Guevara castle,
and on to GARAIO
PARK where we can
stop for a rest and
watch some birds.
The same road, but in
the opposite direction,
will take us through
Ozaeta and BARRIA,
with its ancient
Cistercian monastery,
now a hostal.
We will soon come to
ZALDUONDO, the point
at which pilgrims would
enter the province from
Gipuzkoa after having
made their way through
San Adrin tunnel on
the road to Santiago de
Compostela. The local
Museo Etnogrfico,
located in the 16th
century Palacio
Lazarraga, has
dedicated an entire
room to the Pilgrims
Route to Santiago.
Continuing along the
A-3012, and turning
onto the A-3020, we
will come to the N-1,
from where we will easily
find the Aizkomendi
dolmen (EGUILAZ-
EGILATZ).
Following the N-1 will
take us on to a singular
ensemble with a
medieval layout and
stately mansions in
Renaissance style:
SALVATIERRA-AGURAIN.
Here we will find two
outstanding defensive
churches, one at either
end of the village,
dedicated to San Juan
and Santa Mara.
Salvatierra-Agurain still
has the remains of its
ancient medieval wall.
A deviation from the
N-1 will take us to
GAZEO-GACEO, where
we can admire the
church of San Martn
de Tours, the interior of
which is almost entirely
covered in splendid
murals.
The A-4111 will lead
us, via Langarica, to
ALAIZA, with its church
of la Asuncin. This
building is similar to
the one we have just
visited in Gazeo-Gaceo
owing to its numerous
paintings, although
these are implemented
in the simplest of
techniques with a
subject matter curiously
surpassing typically
religious subjects:
images of warriors and
animals.
From Alaiza we will take
the A-3110 through
ALEGRIA-DULANTZI.
Before returning to
Vitoria-Gasteiz we can
take the turn-off for the
BASILICA DE
ESTIBALIZ. This
temple, dedicated to
the patron saint of
Alava, is Romanesque
with early Gothic
elements.
SPORTS. Like its neighbouring
Ullibarri-Gamboa, the Urrunaga
reservoir is a perfect spot for the
carrying out of water sports in a
beautiful setting. It even has an
international regatta course.
PURE. Despite subsequent
reconstruction, the sanctuary
of Nuestra Seora de Estibaliz
is a harmonious building and a
paradigmatic example of the
Romanesque style.
WARRIORS. The figures standing
at either side of the coat of arms on
the doorway of Lazarraga mansion
(Zalduondo) has earned the
building its nickname of casa de
los gizones (the house of men).
HEAVY. The eleven slabs
forming the Aizkomendi dolmen,
one of the most outstanding
megalithic monuments to be
found in the area, as is the
nearby Sorginetxe (Arrizala).
STATELY. The houses of the
Calle Mayor in Salvatierra-
Agurain, built following the fire
of 1564. Their coats of arms
bear witness to the families
who lived within their walls.
CONCEALED. Its hard to imagine
that the magnificent 14th century
paintings lining the interior of
San Martn in Gazeo-Gaceo were
hidden beneath a coating of
limestone until the 60s.
Amid the reservoirs
VITORIA-
GASTEIZ
Legutiano
Ibarra
Ozaeta
Zalduondo
Guevara
Torre-Etxea
Egilaz
Salvatierra
Ntra. Sra.
de Estibaliz
N
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6
2
2
A
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6
0
8
A
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A
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1
A
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6
2
0
A
-6
2
7
A
-3
0
1
4
A
-3012
A
-3110
N-1 E-5 E-80
N
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2
4
0
Embalse de
Urrunaga
Parque de
Garaio
Embalse
de Ullibarri
Ullibarri-Gamboa
Ollerias
Barria
Gaceo
Alaiza
Dolmen de
Aizkomendi
Otxandio
Gopegui
Alegria-Dulantzi
41
TAKE A BREAK
42 42
LAVA-ARABA
The 300-metre drop of
the river Nervin
headwaters seen from the
Can de Delika is a
sight to be remembered.
in addition to heavy industry, also houses the
Museo de la Gastronoma Vasca.
To the south is the somewhat surprising
Valdegobia valley, an area of transition between
the Atlantic and Mediterranean landscapes. In
SALINAS DE AANA/GESALTZA-AANA the white
terraces standing on different levels offer a
haphazard aspect. These are the pans from which
salt is obtained by evaporation. The Romanesque
church of Nuestra Seora de la Asuncin in
TUESTA and the sanctuary of the Virgen de
Angosto are religious and artistic points of interest.
To the south-east of Vitoria-Gasteiz is the so-called
Montaa alavesa, a succession of wide valleys and
fairly high mountains, such as those of the Sierra
de Izki. MAESTU and SANTA CRUZ DE
CAMPEZO, dedicated to agriculture and cattle-
raising, are some of the villages to be found in this
area, where the forests are still planted according
to the parzonera or association of municipalities
system based on ancient medieval decrees.
THE WEALTH OF THE RIOJA ALAVESA
Perhaps the best known region in Alava is that of
the Rioja alavesa, well worth the visit for its wines
and a heritage rich in history and culture. Located
on the southern extreme of the Basque Country,
looking out over the river Ebro, this area has a
number of different landscapes, walled villages
and wine cellars just waiting to be discovered.
Although Laguardia is the most important borough
in the area, others including LABASTIDA, LEZA,
ELCIEGO, OYN-OION or LAPUEBLA DE
LABARCA are also highly interesting.
The Rioja alavesa is one of the three areas sharing
the Denominacin de Origen Rioja label of quality.
The tempranillo grape, together with the regions
geological and climatological conditions,
are responsible for the excellent quality of the
wines that play such an important part in local
life.
LAGUARDIA, a village of enormous military and
commercial importance during the Middle Ages,
still offers the odd stretch of wall and the entrance
gates to its fortified town, in addition to numerous
stately homes dating from the 16th, 17th and
18th centuries, arranged according to typical
medieval design.
The Gothic doorway of Santa Mara de los Reyes is
the only one in Spain still to perfectly conserve its
polychromy, thanks to the fact that it is sheltered
by the facade added to the building in the 16th
century.
LABASTIDA, the location of which gives it an
excellent view of the Ebro valley,
was likewise a walled frontier population full of
ancient houses. Smaller villages, such as
SALINILLAS DE BURADN, still house the
originally walled village centres that witnessed the
intensive history of this prosperous wine-making
region of Alava.
43
Two alternative ways of
getting to know two of
the westernmost parts
of Alava. To the north,
the Zuia and Ayala
valleys, with their
refreshing waterfalls
and sturdy tower-
houses. To the south,
surprising landscapes
such as that offered by
Salinas de Aana/
Gesaltza-Aana or the
gorge running through
Valderejo Nature
Reserve.
ROUTE A. Leaving
Vitoria-Gasteiz via the
N-622 will take us to
MURGIA, the most
important village in the
ZUIA valley and a
perfect spot from which
to set off into the
nearby Gorbeia Nature
Reserve. Not far from
here (A-4416) is the
often-restored 12th
century Sanctuary of
Nuestra Seora de Oro,
standing on top of a
little hill affording
beautiful views.
Continuing along the
A-2521 we will come to
a side road leading to
the GUJULI waterfall, a
magical spot next to the
Romanesque church of
Santiago Apostol. This
visit is particularly
recommended on rainy
days.
Returning to the same
road, we will come to
ORDUA, a Bizkaian
enclave with a square
named Plaza de los
Fueros, which is
surrounded by
impressive buildings.
If weve got time, from
here well take the
BI-2625 into the
province of Burgos and
head for the vantage
point offering
spectacular views of the
Can de DELIKA,
impressive birthplace of
the river Nervin as it
proceeds to plunge over
a 300-metre drop.
The A-625 will take us
to AMURRIO and its
wealth of ancestral
homes. On the outskirts
of this village is the
campo de Zaraobe,
where the valleys
Juntas Generales used
to meet.
Leaving RESPALDIZA
behind us on the
A-3626, we will come
to QUEJANA, birthplace
of the Ayala lineage
giving its name to the
entire valley. There is
more to be discovered
on the subject of this
family at the Ayala
fortified palace and
museum. The chapel of
La Virgen del Cabello,
home of the
alabaster
sepulchres
of
chancellor Pedro Lpez
de Ayala and his wife
Leonor Lpez de
Guzmn, and the
Dominican convent of
San Juan Bautista with
its gold-work reliquary,
are a must.
Back on the A-624,
well come to
ARTZINIEGA and, in
addition to a number of
tower-houses, to the
16th century sanctuary
of Nuestra Seora de la
Encina, erected in
memory of an earlier
apparition of the Virgin
Mary. The Museo
Etnogrfico is right
beside this sanctuary.
Well have to come back
to Amurrio in order to
rejoin the A-625 for
LLODIO-LAUDIO, the
second most important
town in Alava as far as
the number of
inhabitants is
concerned. Here we will
find the Museo Vasco
de Gastronoma and a
large park, that of
Lamuza. The A-68 will
take us back to Vitoria-
Gasteiz.
ROUTE B. Likewise
leaving from the
capital, and after
having turned onto the
A-2622 in NANCLARES
DE LA OCA, we will
come to SALINAS DE
AANA/ GESALTZA-
AANA which, in
addition to its
impressive salt pans,
also offers a series of
impressive emblazoned
houses.
Having passed through
TUESTA, with its
Romanesque temple of
La Asuncin and its
magnificent doorway,
and ESPEJO, with its
several tower-houses,
we will come to two
turn-offs from the
A-2622, one on either
side of the road. The
right-hand turning will
take us to the sanctuary
of Nuestra Seora de
Angosto, while to the
left is VILLANAE,
home of the Varona
tower-house which,
despite the fact that it
now serves as a
monastery, still has a
moat, battlements,
watch-towers and a
number of other
defensive elements.
The A-2622 and
A-4338 will take us to
LALASTRA, and the
information centre for
VALDEREJO NATURE
RESERVE, where we
will find a limestone
gorge with a number of
waterfalls and pools.
SPECTACULAR. Goiuri
waterfall, with its over
100-metre drop.
We can watch from the
viewpoint as the water pounds
down into the river Altube.
BREATHTAKING. The vantage
point on the Burgos-Alava
border, from which we can
admire the source of the river
Nervin. Not recommended for
those with a fear of heights.
MISSING. The original
altarpiece of the chapel of La
Virgen del Cabello, now on
display in Chicago, is the only
object missing from the highly
interesting Ayala palace.
RELATED TO THE VIRGIN MARY.
The Sanctuary of Nuestra Seora de la
Encina in Artziniega accommodates
four images of the Virgin Mary
dating from different periods. The
holm oak giving the temple its
name is an impressive specimen.
PRIMITIVE. The obtaining of
salt through the evaporation
of water. A spectacular
haphazard jumble of terraces
in Aana, covering 120
hectares and still in use today.
GRIFFON VULTURE. This is
the symbol of Valderejo Nature
Reserve, likewise home of a
number of other interesting
species.
VITORIA-
GASTEIZ
Ordua
Amurrio
Quejana
Artziniega
LLODIO
S
a
l
i
n
a
s
d
e

A

a
n
a
T
u
e
s
t
a
E
s
p
e
j
o
V
i
l
l
a
n
a

e
L
a
l
a
s
t
r
a
Santuario de
Nuestra Seora
de Angosto
N
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E
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Cascada
de Gujuli
A-625
A
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A
-6
2
4
A-2622
A
-
2
6
2
5
A
-2622
Murgia
Parque
Natural
de
Valderejo
Can de
Delika
B
I-
2
6
2
5
43
TAKE A BREAK In the western valleys
44
he city has an enchanted feel to it, the
appearance of a storybook city captured beneath
a glass dome, that glows, that conveys important
information to the traveller in a subtle wink of the
eye.Discovering the enchanting magic of Vitoria-
Gasteiz as described by the novelist Ignacio Aldecoa is
a subjective experience. Objective data confirm that the
capital of the Basque Autonomous Community offers
one of the best standards of living in Spain. Green
areas, pedestrian precincts and excellent installations
make this medieval city an exceptional place.
20 m
2
per inhabitant. Vitoria-Gasteiz has more open
space per capita than anywhere else in Spain and is
one of the best cities in Europe as far as natural areas
are concerned. The figures are overwhelming:
forty parks, 80,000 trees and 200,000 bushes make
the city into a real botanical garden where classic
varieties such as horse chestnut, plane, lime or ash
trees rub elbows with more exotic specimens, such as
the enormous sequoia standing beside the Catedral
Nueva, the ginko trees populating the Calle Castillo de
Ocio or the Japanese privets.
The best known park is La Florida, right in the centre of
town. It was started in 1820, and still has a feeling of
19th century French gardens.
La Florida is the starting point for the three kilometres
of walkway through the woods connecting the city
centre to the Armentia meadows, and the Basilica of
San Prudencio, a gem of Basque Romanesque
construction.
Outstanding among the city parks are El Prado, a one
time pastureland converted for public use in the 19th
century; Judimendi, standing over the site of an ancient
Jewish cemetery - as recalled by a monolith raised in
memory of the important part played by the Jewish
community in the development of Vitoria until its
expulsion; and Juan de Arriaga which, with its extension
of 18 hectares, is the largest park in the city. The lake
surrounded by an amphitheatre or the sports installations
are to be found beside the oath-taking hermitage of San
Juan, meeting place of the Arriaga brotherhood, the
collective then in charge of governing Alava.
Aside from the urban parks in its different districts
Ariznabarra, Molinuevo, San MartnVitoria-Gasteiz has
a green ring that surrounds the city, which is
constituted by Salburua, Olarizu, Armentia, and
Zabalgana parks. These parks serve as a natural lung for
the city and they allow us to make use of nature.
FROM FORTIFIED TOWN TO PLACE OF TRADE
Apart from the green of its open-air spaces, Vitoria-
Gasteiz is also recognisable for the colour of its
buildings. This Basque capital has the best conserved
medieval old quarter and was granted the qualification
of historical monument in 1997.
The tiny hamlet of Gasteiz already stood at the top of a
hill in the Llanada alavesa region when, in 1181, the
King of Navarre, Sancho VI the Wise, decided to found
the town of Nueva Victoria on the same site as an
outpost for defending his kingdom. The original walled
T
V I T O R I A
G A S T E I Z
Vast parks and gardens, pedestrian areas, a
renovated medieval quarter and balanced
development make the capital of Alava one of the
cities with the best standard of living in Europe.
45
nucleus, with barely three streets, was soon besieged by
the kingdom of Castile, to which it surrendered in 1200.
Rebuilt following a fire, three new streets were added to
the east side of town (Correra, Herrera and Zapatera),
followed only a few decades later by yet another three
to the west (Cuchillera, Pintorera and Judera). The
names of these streets are proof in themselves that the
towns condition of fortified outpost was gradually
changing, and that it was becoming a place of trade
based on the different crafts. The prosperity of the
families who owned these crafts businesses led to the
construction of stately homes and mansions.
Walking today through the streets of the oval-shaped old
quarter takes us past countless beautiful medieval
(Casa Cordn, Torre de los Anda, El Portaln) and
Renaissance buildings (the Escoriaza-Esquivel,
Villasuso, Bendaa and Montehermoso mansions, etc.),
architecturally identical today and kept alive by means
of their use for other purposes. Most of them now house
museums and civic centres. The recovery of crafts
workshops - where wineskins were made for example -
and the proliferation of bars popular with the youngsters
mean that the rehabilitation of the old quarter hasnt
come to a halt at the simply architectural aspect.
FOUR CHURCHES
There are four outstanding towers in the oldest part
of the city, which in turn belong to four important
temples: the Cathedral of Saint Mary or Old Cathedral,
Gothic temple-fortress of huge richness whose
restoration works are of obliged visit for the tourist;
the Church of San Pedro, dating from the same period;
that of San Vicente, the only church in Alava to have
been built in the style known as saln,
and the Parish church of San Miguel, where the locals
venerate the citys patron saint, the Virgen Blanca.
The brotherhood corresponding to this church is in
charge of organising the procession known as the
Rosario de los Faroles.
Next to the church of San Miguel is the area known
as Los Arquillos, a series of terraced and arcaded
buildings that cleverly solve the problematic
difference in height between the old quarter and the
newer part of town, started in the Neo-classical style
with the beautiful Plaza de Espaa, before spreading
outwards.
The more modern city centre, set around the Plaza de
la Virgen Blanca and the Calles Postas and Dato with
their unusual sculptures, is a busy pedestrian precinct
and popular meeting place.
In August, the Plaza de la Virgen Blanca witnesses the
beginning of the festivities in celebration of the local
patron saint with the descent of the popular character
known as Celedn.
The San Prudencio fiesta, in April, is another important
rendezvous on Vitorias festive calendar, as are the
International Jazz Festival (July), the Theatre Festival
and the Video festival.
46 46
VITORIA-GASTEIZ
The old quarter of
Vitoria-Gasteiz is
shaped like an enormous
ellipse packed with
beautiful medieval
towers and Renaissance
mansions.
A CITY OF MUSEUMS
On the subject of culture, we have to mention the
abundance of cultural and civic centres with
respect to which Vitoria-Gasteiz is a pioneer, not
forgetting the numerous museums to be found all
over the city. Perhaps the most unusual is the
Museo Fournier de Naipes, containing a collection
of over 20,000 playing cards related to every
period and subject at the Palacio de Bendaa.
The Museo de Arqueologa (Casa de los Gobeo)
takes us through prehistory, Romanization and the
Late Middle Ages in Alava. The Museo Diocesano
de Arte Sacro, located in the Catedral Nueva
which took six decades of the 20th century to
build gives us a look at the local religious
heritage; and the Museo de Ciencias Naturales
(Torre de Doa Otxanda) has an excellent mineral
and fossil collection.
The Museo de Armera, beside Ajuria-Enea, offers
a complete collection of weapons and armour. Only
two minutes from Vitoria-Gasteiz, the Museo de
Bellas Artes, which, occupying the beautiful
Palacio Augusti and its gardens, houses an
interesting collection with sections dedicated to
paintings of Basque customs and manners or
contemporary art.
Not far from the old part of the city the Artium,
Basque Centre of Contemporary Art, is located. The
last inclusion to the museum tour are these
13,000 square metres that, along with temporal
exhibitions and activities, show one of the most
complete Contemporary Art collection, which has
been classified in different themes.
CAPITAL OF THE BASQUE COUNTRY
The latter two museums are located in the Paseo
de Fray Francisco de Vitoria where, standing
among other mansions, we will find a stately home
of Basque inspiration but designed by a Swiss
architect, Alfredo Baeschlin. This building is
Ajuria-Enea, official residence of the President of
the Basque government, or of the lehendakari in
Basque.
The decision, taken in 1980, to designate
Vitoria-Gasteiz as the capital of the Basque
Autonomous Community caused more than
a little upheaval in the city, which saw several
buildings being constructed in its Lakua suburb
in order to hold the different departments of
the Basque Government. In addition to fitting
out Ajuria-Enea, renovation work was carried
out on an old college next to the Parque de La
Florida in order to house the Basque Government.
Vitoria is the capital of both the Basque
Country and of the province of Alava. It also
houses over three-quarters of the Alavese
population. Throughout the 20th century, but
particularly in recent decades, steady growth and
the quality of life have given rise to a phenomenon
of demographic concentration in this comfortable,
warm, commercial, administrative, services and
pedestrian-friendly city.
47
Well start our tour of
the peaceful Vitoria-
Gasteiz in the PLAZA
DE LA VIRGEN
BLANCA, epicentre of
the city throughout the
year, and not only when
Celedn descends to
mark the beginning of
the local festivities. With
the Parish Church of
San Miguel in the
background and houses
with pretty balconies on
either side, the plaza
itself offers a monument
to the Battle of Vitoria.
Lets enter the old
quarter to the left,
along the Calle
Herrera, taking note of
the Palacio de los
Alava-Esquvel and of
the PARISH CHURCH
OF SAN PEDRO with its
impressive Gothic
doorway. A little further
along the same street is
the slender TORRE DE
DOA OTXANDA, a
crenellated tower
containing one of the
several little museums
to be found in Vitoria,
that of Natural
Sciences. Climbing the
stairs beside the
Seminario, seek out the
PLAZA DE LA
BRULLERIA to the left,
with its bolatoki
(bowling-alley),
surrounded by 15th and
16th century buildings:
the Casa Armera
de los Gobeo
(Museo de
Arqueologa), El
Portaln, an
ancient medieval-
looking inn in
brick and wood,
and La Torre de
los Anda.
Very near here is
the highest point
in Vitoria-Gasteiz, the
CATEDRAL DE
SANTA MARA or
the Catedral vieja,
the triple Gothic
doorway of which
bears details of
biblical scenes.
The beautiful
Renaissance
mansions of
Escoriaza-Esquivel
and Montehermoso
are to be found in
the Calle de Fray
Zacaras Martnez.
Making our way down
beside Santa Ana via
the Calle de Las
Escuelas will bring us
out at the PALACIO DE
BENDAA, now
occupied by the curious
Museo Fournier de
Naipes.Lowering by the
San Francisco Javier
corner we will get to the
Artium, Centre-Museum
of Contemporary Art.
Back in Cuchillera
Street, we will find the
CASA DEL CORDON,
medieval house-tower
that preserves its
cordon-like relief, which
surrounds one of its
doors. Turning to the
right on this same
street, we will come to
the CHURCH OF SAN
VICENTE, with
elements dating from
between the 8th and
18th centuries.
Making our way down
the stairway beside the
sturdy PALACIO DE
VILLA SUSO, we will
come to the spacious
Plaza del Machete, the
buildings of which
are arcaded at
the back, thus
serving as a
viewpoint from the
area known as
LOS ARQUILLOS.
Continuing through
Los Arquillos, we will
come to the
CHURCH OF SAN
MIGUEL, famous
for the
sculpture of
the Virgen
Blanca
located
between the
two arches of
its doorway.
This church
also has an
interesting
Baroque
altarpiece.
Coming down to the
Plaza de la Virgen Blanca
well find ourselves in the
pedestrian precinct, and
will continue along the
Calle Postas to the
elegant Neo-classical
PLAZA DE ESPAA with
its perfectly square
ground plan. The Town
Hall is located on the
northern side of this
square.
Further along the Calle
Postas, with its Correos
or Post Office building,
well come to the PLAZA
DE LOS FUEROS.
Retracing our steps a
little, well turn on to
another pedestrian
street, dedicated to
Eduardo Dato, a bustling
shopping area and
popular local meeting
place. Youll be
surprised at the
sculptures on this street.
Turning onto the Calle
Florida will bring us out
at the edge of La Florida
park, the starting point
of a 3-kilometer walk
leading to the Basilica
de Armentia. We will
leave from the PASEO
DE LA SENDA, with its
hundred-year old trees,
and continue along Fray
Francisco de Vitoria,
past its many mansions.
Among these are the
Museo de Armera, with
its collection of weapons
from different
periods, the
PALACIO DE
AJURIA-ENEA,
official residence
of the lehendakari
of the Basque
Government, and
the MUSEO DE
BELLAS ARTES.
Making our way
back through the
pleasant PARQUE
DE LA FLORIDA,
we will visit the
Neo-gothic
CATEDRAL
NUEVA or DE
MARA
INMACULADA
with its
Museo de
Arte Sacro.
ORIGINAL. Cards since the
14th century until the present
day can be seen in the Museo
Fournier; one of the best
collections of its kind in the
world.
PERFECT. Thats the opinion of
the experts regarding the
solution adopted by 18th century
architects in their endeavour to
solve the height difference
between the old quarter and the
new part of town.
VISIBLE. In a niche on the
Church of San Miguel, the
pleasant polychromed image of
the Virgen Blanca, patron saint
of the city, can be seen from
the square of the same name.
ABSTRACT. Thats the
appearance of the Plaza de los
Fueros, designed by Eduardo
Chillida and Pea Ganchegui,
with its granite steps, its areas
for herri kirolak or Basque
sports, and its fosse.
BALANCED. The Museo de
Bellas Artes, in the Palacio de
August and its garden,
combines Spanish painting
(17th and 18th century) with
works from the Basque school
and contemporary oeuvres.
ROMANTIC. Ponds, hillocks,
trees and a bandstand co-exist
in La Florida Park, unchanged
since the 19th century.
Vitoria-Gasteiz:
the pedestrian city
1
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
12
14
PLAZA DE
LA VIRGEN
BLANCA
Torre de Doa
Otxanda
Catedral de
Santa Mara
Museo Fournier
de Naipes
Casa del Cordn
I
g
l
e
s
i
a

d
e
S
a
n

M
i
g
u
e
l
Palacio de
Alava Esquvel
Palacio de Escoriaza Esquvel
Plaza del Machete
Ayuntamiento
Plaza de
los Fueros
Ajuria-Enea
Museo de
Bellas Artes
Museo de la Armera
Parque de
La Florida
CATEDRAL NUEVA
El Portaln
Artium
47
ON FOOT
The label land of contrasts suits Bizkaia perfectly. Pure images such as that of
San Juan Gaztelugatxe or the local nature reserves alternate with areas
strongly influenced by the hand of man. Both industrial and natural, Bizkaia
is an all-round province that never fails to surprise.
48
49
uruan orlegi, bihotzean sua.... Green
in the head, fire in the heart. These
are the words of a love song written to this
province by singer-songwriter Benito Lertxundi,
entitled Bizkaia maite. The fresh green of places
like the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve or the Nature
Reserves of Urkiola and Gorbeia. The red flames of
the blast furnaces, of the industrialisation
responsible for converting the left bank of the
Nervin estuary into the area with the highest
population density in the Basque Country.
But there should really be a third colour, the blue of
the Bay of Biscay, seen from the beaches and
fishing harbours of Bizkaia, or from magical places
like the hermitage of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe.
Bizkaia is an all-round province with a capital city
impressive in itself, Bilbao, now stronger than ever
thanks to the Guggenheim effect, and Gernika-
Lumo, a place of symbolic meaning for all Basques.
Bizkaia suits the label land of contrasts. It hardly
seems possible that, in one single province, and
simply by changing valleys, we can go from
industrial areas to nature reserves; from proud,
stately boroughs to towns marked by rapid
development.
No matter what the landscape, Bizkaia never loses
its expressive pride. One excellent example of this is
the hanging bridge which has been spanning the
Nervin estuary since 1893, linking the residential
Getxo to the industrial Portugalete. But we mustnt
forget the spectacular silhouette and 1,296 metres
imbibed in legend of Mount Anboto. And the colours
of the painted trees in the Bosque de Oma, or the
metallic dazzle of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao.
Bizkaia is the most densely populated of the three
Basque provinces. This said, the demographic
agglomeration is located in Greater Bilbao, whereas
the rest of the territory has both highly populated
areas and others with an age-old rural flavour.
The province of Bizkaia is extremely rugged.
Mountains tumble down into the sea, forming a
steep coastline only softened by the odd beach and
the mouths of rivers which, though short, never-
theless contain a great deal of water. An oceanic
climate, damp and mild, makes for a densely
wooded landscape with an important variety of
autochthonous trees, such as oak or beech, which
are now losing ground to the more profitable
imported pine or eucalyptus trees.
THANKS TO IRON
Bizkaian soil is extremely fertile and as such ideal
for the agriculture and cattle-raising largely found in
the more rural valleys. It likewise conceals a hidden
treasure, iron ore, the reason for and symbol of the
provinces intensive industrial development. This
development, based on mining and on the iron and
steel industry, planted its roots in Bilbao, on the left
bank of the Nervin and in the bigger towns.
Fishing, although of generally less importance, has
marked and continues to mark the everyday life of a
number of coastal villages.
Populated since prehistory the Magdaleniense
man left almost fifty drawings of animals in the
Santimamie caves at Kortezubi Bizkaia was only
very partially Romanised. The earliest written
reference to the territory is to be found in a 9th
century document, when the province was an entity
comprising several merindades or territorial
divisions which floated back and forth between the
kingdoms of Asturias and Navarre.
The area soon became a manor, with the Lord of
Bizkaia at its head. In 1379 it became part of the
Castilian crown which, by means of charters
permitting the foundation of boroughs, boosted the
appearance of several towns, including: Plentzia,
Bilbao, Portugalete and Lekeitio.
Although related to Castile, the Basque Country
maintained its own legal system as set down in its
charters and implemented by its general
assemblies, or Juntas Generales. For centuries, the
Castilian kings, though granted the title of Lords of
Bizkaia, had to swear allegiance to the Fuero viejo
(Ancient Chapter) at a rigidly established ritual
according to which ceremonies were established in
five different places. The oath-taking route began
in Bilbao and continued in Larrabetzu,
Aretxabalegane, Gernika-Lumo and Bermeo.
Iron ore deposits and
the early promotion of
exportation were behind
the iron industrys
historical driving effect
on development in
Bizkaia.
49
b
Bizkaia
50 50
VIA THE COAST
Bermeo stands at the centre of one of Bizkaias
greatest attractions: its coast. From Ondarroa, on
the border with Gipuzkoa, to Punta Covarn next to
Cantabria, the steep cliffs of the Bizkaian coast
alternate with long beaches and splendid fluvial
valleys.
The first fishing village to the east is ONDARROA,
the houses of which rise haphazardly above the
harbour, base of the most important deep-sea
fishing fleet on the Basque coast. Slightly inland
from here is MARKINA-XEMEIN, a land of cesta-
punta pelota players. The hermitage of San Miguel
de Arretxinaga offers an unforgettable image: three
enormous rocks forming an extremely beautiful
interior altar. Well worth the visit is the nearby
village of Bolibar and the Cenarruza-Ziortza
collegiate church.
Back on the coast, is the parish church of Santa
Mara de la Asuncin in LEKEITIO with its Flemish
altarpiece. A one-time rival with Donostia-San
Sebastin for the position of summer venue for the
Royals, this town has two beaches facing out towards
San Nicols Island, to which you can walk at low tide.
The area between Lekeitio and Bermeo
accommodates a number of picturesque fishing
villages, such as EA, with its narrow streets and
bridges, and ELANTXOBE, with houses that almost
hang off the mountain before tumbling down the
steep streets towards the small harbour.
Further along the coast is the Mundaka estuary, an
area with several natural, leisure and historical
attractions. The natural aspect takes the shape of
the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, a qualification
granted to the area by the UNESCO in 1984. Its
marshlands and holm oak trees provide shelter to
species of birds not normally found on the
peninsula. The long local beaches, such as those
of Laida and Laga, offer all sorts of fun activities.
History is present even before reaching Gernika-
Lumo, thanks to the interesting prehistoric
paintings of the Santimamie caves in
KORTEZUBI, where we will discover yet another of
Urdaibais important attractions, the unusual Oma
forest, where Agustn Ibarrola has colourfully
painted hundreds of pine trees.
At the entrance to the estuary stands GERNIKA-
LUMO, a highly symbolic Basque town, and home
of the Gernika Oak Tree, under which the Bizkaian
Juntas Generales would meet, an event which lasted
until the charters were abolished in 1876. Todays
Juntas Generales still meet at the local Casa de
Juntas. Gernika is also unfortunately well known as
a result of the 1937 bombing which virtually razed
the town to the ground, an event which Picasso was
later to portray in his famous painting.
Today, in addition to being the principal town of
the area with a lively market, Gernika-Lumo speaks
out in favour of peace through the open-air
sculptures of its Parque de los Pueblos de Europa.
BIZKAIA
The beautiful Laga
Beach, with Cape Ogoo
at the back, tells us that
the Urdaibai biosphere
reserve is near.
51
Three little islands,
Billano (in Gorliz),
Aketxe (beside
San Juan de
Gaztelugatxe) and
Izaro (at the outlet of
the Gernika estuary)
are dotted along this
route offering a
combination of
beaches, history and
nature.
Our itinerary leads us
away from Bilbao along
the right bank of the
Nervin until coming to
the residential area of
GETXO and its four
neighbourhoods (Las
Arenas, Neguri, Algorta
and Santa Mara).
Another option is to start
from PORTUGALETE, on
the left bank, after
having crossed the
estuary via the worlds
first hanging bridge, the
hundred-year old
Puente de Bizkaia
(1893). From here well
head for the industrial
and fishing town of
SANTURTZI.
Stop in NEGURI and
take a walk through the
mansions built by the
upper middle classes
which have now been
facing out to sea for
more than a century.
Feel like having a dip?
The next town along the
BI-634, SOPELANA,
has three beaches:
Atzabiribil,
Larrabasterra and
La Salvaje.
Another
possibility are the
strands of two
neighbouring
towns, PLENTZIA
and GORLIZ.
From here, an
alternative route is
to head from
GORLIZ to ARMINTZA, a
small fishing village with
one of the most abrupt
views of the coast.
But lets change the sea
breeze for the shade of
the woods, such as
those surrounding the
lovely BUTRON castle
in GATIKA.
Taking the BI-631 and
BI-3101 from MUNGIA
will bring us back onto
the coast at BAKIO,
where we can take a walk
along the long beach or
taste the local red txakoli
before looking for the
turn-off from the road
towards Bermeo and one
of the most spectacular
views in Bizkaia.
The hermitage of SAN
JUAN DE GAZTELUGATXE
deserves a climb right up
to the top of this rock
joined to the coast. The
view of the little islet of
Aketze rounds off a
unique enclave, now a
protected biotope.
Our next stop is the
typical fishing village of
BERMEO. Strolling
round its lively Puerto
Viejo, we will come to
the medieval Ercilla
tower, ancestral home
of Alonso de Ercilla, the
author of La
araucana, which now
harbours the Museo del
Pescador. Another
interesting spot is the
oath-taking church of
Santa Eufemia in which
the Castilian kings had
to swear allegiance to
the local charters.
Continuing via the
BI-635, well stop at the
nearby surfers paradise
of MUNDAKA. The
splendid Portuondo
vantage point offers
fabulous views of the sea,
Izaro island, the Gernika
estuary and the Urdaibai
Biosphere Reserve.
Well now head for the
extremely symbolic
GERNIKA-LUMO where
we can visit the Neo-
classical Casa de Juntas
and its mythical Gernika
Oak Tree, emblem of
Basque freedom and
charters. The Gernika
Peace Museum brings to
mind the tragic
bombardment of the villa
in 1937 and anyone who
wants to have a thought
about the nonsense of
war is invited.
From here we will take
the BI-638 northwards
to KORTEZUBI, the
township of which is
home of two of the
biggest attractions in
Bizkaia, the Basque
cave painting sanctuary
of Santimamie and
Oma forest. Be sure to
give these two places
the time they deserve.
This itinerary can be
brought to an end by
stopping off at the
romantic AREAGA castle
before heading via the BI-
3237 coastal road to
ELANTXOBE and EA for
a stroll along the quays of
these picturesque fishing
villages set between the
hills and the sea.
MEDIEVAL. The atmosphere of
Butrn castle. Rebuilt in the
19th century over a primitive
tower-house, its fairytale
aspect conjures up images of
fantastic adventures in the
Middle Ages.
CARVED. Out of the rock, the
231 stairs leading up to San
Juan de Gaztelugatxe. Seamen
would fulfil their vows on this
sea-logged site.
LAST. Every Monday, the
Gernika-Lumo market takes
the temperature of the local
agricultural products. There is
a special version of this event
every last Monday in October.
PEACEFUL. The Parque de los
Pueblos de Europa standing in
front of the Casa de Juntas in
Gernika. The gardens and two
sculptures by Henry Moore and
Eduardo Chillida represent the
desire for peace.
ANCIENT. The paintings that
have spent the last 12,000
years in the Santimamie
cave, likewise outstanding for
its calcareous formations.
COLOURFUL. The eyes, faces
and human shapes painted in
bright colours on the trees of
Oma forest, where Agustn
Ibarrola has succeeded in
achieving a skilful combination
of art and nature.
Visit the islands
BILBAO
Erandio
Getxo
Sopelana
Gatika
Mungia
Bakio
Bermeo
Bosque de Oma
Gernika-Lumo
B
I-
6
3
4
B
I-3
1
2
1
B
I-6
3
1
B
I
-
3
1
0
1
B
I
-
6
3
5
B
I
-
6
3
8
San Juan de
Gaztelugatxe
C
u
e
v
a
s

d
e
S
a
n
t
i
m
a
m
i

e
K
o
r
t
e
z
u
b
i
Elantxobe
Castillo
de Butron
Ea
Mundaka
Armintza
Plentzia
Gorliz
Santurtzi
Portugalete
51
TAKE A BREAK
52 52
BIZKAIA
Despite being the most
populated of the Basque
provinces, Bizkaia still
has a number of natural
environments with a very
definite rural flavour.
Returning to the coast from the west will bring us to
MUNDAKA, a fishing port long visited by tourists.
Its wild seas attract surfers from all over the world.
This said fishing activity concentrates in the Puerto
Nuevo, while the Puerto Viejo is now a peaceful area
in which to visit the Gothic Ercilla tower, home of
the Museo del Pescador. The old quarter of
BERMEO smells of delicious grilled fish. Not to be
missed under any circumstances.
Returning along the coast road, well soon
come to the spectacular Gaztelugatxe rock,
surrounded by the sea but connected to dry land by
a bridge. You can get to the top by the steps carved
out of the rock leading up to the small hermitage
housing the image of Saint John the Baptist. This
splendid panorama is rounded off by Aketze Islet.
BAKIO, a traditional holiday resort offering a
long beach, is the starting point for a
stretch of more or less wild coast until
arriving at the basically tourist
and residential town of PLENTZIA,
which shares its shell-shaped bay
and practical beach with the
neighbouring town of GORLIZ.
Running the length of BARRIKA and
SOPELANA are the busiest beaches in
Bizkaia. From here we can visit the Castillo
de Butrn in GATIKA, an impressive building
reminiscent of fairytale constructions.
Well known for its intensive cultural activities, not
to mention its beaches, GETXO is the coastal door
to the left bank of the Nervin estuary. Algorta and
Las Arenas, both part of the same town, are
residential areas with an excellent quality of life.
Algorta is home of the elegant Neguri neighbour-
hood, once residence of Bilbaos upper middle
classes, and to the Puerto Viejo, with its small
houses and steep streets.
Crossing over to the other side of the Nervin is
the best way to experience a typically Bizkaian
contrast. Instead of the residential and tourist
aspect of the right-hand bank, the left bank is
completely industrial, with extensive and
functional urbanisations.
Curious visitors will enjoy having a look at the
examples of industrial heritage -particularly of our
mining past in the natural area of La Arboleda-at
the old parts of BARAKALDO, SESTAO,
PORTUGALETE and the fishing port of
SANTURTZI.
It would be a crime to pass through the latter of
these two towns without having a plate of grilled
sardines. The cherry on the cake of the left-hand
bank is ZIERBENA with its excellent seafood. The
nearby La Arena beach marks the end of the
Bizkaian coast as it runs into Cantabria. It's easy
from this left-hand bank to reach the mining area
of the Triano mountains. A funicular railway leaves
from TRPAGA-TRAPAGARAN for the
neighbourhoods of La Reineta and La Arboleda,
where striking views will take us back in time.
53 53
ROUTE 1
Leaving Bilbao towards
the east we will make
our first stop in
DURANGO, the largest
town in the area, from
where mountain lovers
can head for Urkiola
Nature Reserve. As well
as admiring Durangos
splendid Town Hall and
Kurutziaga cross, take a
look at the Church of
San Pedro de Tabira,
the oldest in Bizkaia.
The road to ABADIO
takes us to ELORRIO,
with its excellent
selection of solidly built
17th and 18th century
mansions. Its said that
as many as 69 coats of
arms can be counted on
their facades.
In the area around
Elorrio, on the way to
BERRIZ, we mustnt miss
the impressive
Argieta
necropolis.
Towards the
north via the
BI-633, we will
come to
MARKINA-
XEMEIN, home
of one of the
three biggest
churches in the
Basque Country,
the church of
Santa Mara de
Xemein. Dont
miss the unusual
hermitage of San
Miguel de
Arretxinaga.
Heading towards
the coast will
bring us out at
ONDARROA, with its
flavour of fresh fish and
pleasant harbour for
taking a stroll. While in
the old part, note the
bridges spanning the
river Artibai: the
Romanesque El Viejo;
the Puente de Hierro or
Perrotxiko, to cross
which a toll once had to
be paid; and the new
bridge designed by
Santiago Calatrava.
Following the coastal
road (BI-638) will bring
us to LEKEITIO, another
pretty fishing village
with lovely views, set
against San Nicols
island. Look out for the
doorway and altarpieces
of the Gothic church of
Nuestra Seora de la
Asuncin.
From Lekeitio along the
river Lea (BI-3447) is
MUNTIBAR-ARBATZEGI
GERRIKAITZ, from
where we will take the
BI-2224. A deviation (via
the BI-3231) will take us
to the viewpoint known
as the BALCON DE
BIZKAIA on Mount Oiz.
Returning to the
BI-2224, we will come
to a medieval road
wending its way through
farmhouses to the only
collegiate church in
Bizkaia, that of
Cenarruza (ZIORTZA), a
landmark on the
pilgrims road to
Santiago. Very near here
is the village of
BOLIVAR, evocative of
Simn Bolivar.
Leaving here, well
make our way back
through IURRETA
towards Bilbao.
ROUTE 2
Take the A-68 towards
OROZKO, with its
numerous interesting
buildings including the
Casa Consistorial and
the Palacio de Careaga.
Continuing in the
direction of the VALLE
DE ARRATIA will bring
us to the typical Basque
village of IBARRA.
From here we will make
our way over the little
mountain pass of
Oikotz-Gana, offering
lovely views of the
surrounding area, into
the Valle de Arratia. The
first village on our way
is ARTEA, home of an
unusual hermitage
dedicated to the
Apstol Santiago in
which we can visit the
Ecomuseo del Caserio
Vasco. Back on the
road, well head for
AREATZA-VILLARO,
where we can visit the
church of San
Bartolom and take a
stroll through the pretty
centre of town. The
Palacio de Gortazar is
also interesting.
Near here is ZEANURI,
from where well climb
the Puerto de Barazar
via the N-240. Once
over the pass, well take
the left-hand road for
OTXANDIO, a village
dedicated to agriculture
and cattle-raising with
beautiful traditional
architecture and two
particularly outstanding
stately buildings: the
church of Santa Marina
and the Baroque Town
Hall.
Heading back out of
OTXANDIO, towards
Durango, we will once
again take a left-hand
turning down the Puerto
de Dima, enjoying
lovely mountain scenery
on the way. Having
arrived in DIMA, we can
visit the church of San
Pedro and the curious
hermitage of La Piedad.
The N-240 will take us
back to Bilbao.
NOTEWORTHY. Durango
Town Hall, the sobriety of
which contrasts with the
profusion of Neapolitan-
influenced murals decorating
its facade.
NUMEROUS. The graceful
mansions of Elorrios old
quarter: Arespakotxaga, Arabio,
Etxebarria, Arriola, etc. all
serve to give this village a
particularly stately atmosphere.
MYSTERIOUS. Next to the
hermitage of San Adrin in
Argieta, pre-Christian stelae
and sepulchres, perhaps
dating from Visigothic times,
form a funerary site as
beautiful as it is mysterious.
ROCKY. The altar of San Miguel
de Arretxinaga (Markina-
Xemein) stands around three
enormous monoliths. Legend
would have it that San Miguel
buried the devil on this summit.
BEAUTIFUL. The site on which
the Ziortza Collegiate Church is
built was supposedly chosen by
an eagle that had lifted a skull
up into the air and let it drop at
this point.
LIBERATOR. A monolith and
the Museo Simn Bolivar,
located in the Errementarikua
farmhouse, recall this liberator
in the land of his Basque
forbears.
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Elantxobe
Stately boroughs
TAKE A BREAK
54 54
BIZKAIA
The emblematic Bizkaia
Bridge, a hanging
structure linking Getxo
and Portugalete, is part
of the World Heritage,
according to Unesco.
THE INLAND VALLEYS
Bizkaia also offers inland attractions in the shape
of medieval boroughs and nature reserves. The
Duranguesado valley, on the corridor running
between Gipuzkoa and Bilbao, still offers the most
rural and peaceful of Bizkaian atmospheres. The
old part of DURANGO has been standing since
medieval times and is home of the eye-catching,
colourful, Renaissance Town Hall and the Baroque
Kurutziaga cross.
ELORRIO is another of the outstanding boroughs
in this area. Now qualified as a historical
monument, this village is remarkable for its
accumulation of solidly built, emblazoned houses
set out in elegant rows.
Country buffs will feel completely at home in the
Arratia and Ordua valleys to the south of Bizkaia.
Arratia, named after the homonymous river born on
the hillside of the Gorbeia massif, is flecked with
farmhouses. Making our way over Barazar Pass takes
us to OTXANDIO, where we will find one of the most
interesting specimens of typically Bizkaian Baroque
architecture in the shape of Santa Marina church.
ORDUA is the only place in Bizkaia to boast the
title of city. Surrounded by land belonging to the
province of Alava, it acquired a great deal of
importance in the 8th century when a new road
leading from Bizkaia to the meseta was opened
through the Ordua crags.
THE ENCARTACIONES
The Encartaciones occupy the westernmost and
perhaps least known area of Bizkaia.
Some ten municipalities and a number of isolated
farm-houses give shape to the region, a succession
of valleys with enormous personality, rich in forests
and fertile lowlands.
One of the few places in this area to have become
industrialised is BALMASEDA, well known for its
popular representation during Easter Week.
Its main square houses the church of San Severino
and the Town Hall, with a large arcade known as
La Mezquita for the number of columns holding
it up.
Next to Balmaseda, other towns such as ZALLA,
GEES or TRUCIOS-TURTZIOZ likewise have a
variety of interesting monuments.
Similarly numerous are the tower-houses
left over from the factionist Guerra de Banderizas.
Some of these buildings, such as the Torre de
Oxirando in Gordexola or the Torre Loizaga in
Galdames are well worth a visit.
Another interesting spot is the Casa de Juntas de
Avellaneda in SOPUERTA, now the Museo de las
Encartaciones.
This region simply abounds in unusual geological
formations, including the famous Ventalaperra and
Pozalagua caves. Stalactites defying the laws of
gravity can be visited in the latter of the two.
55
The Encartaciones
region comprises ten
primitive republics
which were at war in the
Middle Ages, and which
gradually became part
of the Bizkaian manor in
the 18th century. This
charming region, largely
unknown, is to be found
in the westernmost
extreme of the Basque
Country.
Land of the factionist
Guerra de Banderizas
and medieval tower-
houses, the
Encartaciones will start
uncovering its secrets as
we set off along the BI-
636 towards GEES,
where a visit just has to
be made to the parish
church of Santa Mara.
The more adventurous
can head towards
Godexola and visit the
Torre de Oxirando.
Following the road
through ZALLA will take
us past the Baroque
mansion of the Murga
family, presently the
Town Hall, with its
pleasant surrounding
gardens. An interesting
visit on the way to LA
HERRERA is the
hermitage of San Pedro
de Zarikete. Tradition
has it that, to rid
yourself of evil spirits,
you have go in one door
and out of the other,
throwing salt all the
while.
We will continue on to
BALMASEDA, the
biggest town in the
Encartaciones region,
with an urban ground
plan denoting its
importance during the
Middle Ages. Note the
emblematic Puente
Viejo, once a customs
post, and the Plaza
Mayor, in which we will
find the Town Hall and
the Gothic church of
San Severino with its
several Baroque
additions.
From Balmaseda well
head north towards
Sopuerta via the
BI-630 and BI-2701, to
visit the Casa de Juntas
de AVELLANEDA.
The modern Museo de
las Encartaciones, with
a collection of objects
related to the local
historical heritage, has
recovered part of the
14th century tower in
which the Juntas
Generales used to meet.
Retracing our steps,
well take the BI-630
through TRASLAVIA
and Villaverde de
Trucios, over La Escrita
pass and into the
Carranza Valley. On the
way down into the
valley, well turn off
towards the pretty
sanctuary of La Virgen
del Buen Suceso,
standing at the top of a
hill with a picnic area
and lovely views.
Once weve arrived to
the CARRANZA Valley,
still on the BI-630, we
should take two right-
hand turnings. The first
to take a look at the
animals in the Parque
Ecolgico de Bizkaia at
El Carpn estate. And
the second, after having
made our way through
the neighbourhood of
Molinar, with its
mineral-medicinal spa,
to take a look at the
remarkable Pozalagua
cave.
The strange stalactites
covering the surface of
this cave, and
particularly in the hall
known as the sala
Versalles, make this one
of the best in Europe. It
is open to the public
and is to be found in
the area of Ranero.
On the way back, those
who could do with a
little more action can
head northwards, taking
the BI-2701 from
Sopuerta, past MUSKIZ
and Muatones castle
until coming to the
coast at La Arena beach
and the harbour at
ZIERBENA. This radical
change of landscape
can be rounded-off by
returning to Bilbao
along the left bank,
industrial motor of
Bizkaia, past the
fishing port of
SANTURTZI and the
hanging bridge of
PORTUGALETE.
RICH. The decoration of the
doorway to Santa Mara church in
Gees, dating from the reign of
the Catholic Kings. The
abundance of geometrical and
floral forms on this building have
earned it the nickname of El sol.
ABUNDANT. The colonnade at
the entrance to Balmaseda
Town Hall. Popularly known as
la Mezquita because of its
resemblance to this kind of
construction.
EDUCATIONAL. The Museo de
las Encartaciones, in the Casa
de Juntas de Avellaneda
explains the history of the
region by means of panels,
replicas, objects and models.
SURPRISING. The hermitage
of La Virgen del Buen Suceso
offers splendid views and an
unexpected mid-mountain
bullring.
WILD. The animals in the
Parque Ecolgico de Bizkaia,
at El Carpn estate, where Real
bears, deers, wild boars, and
wolfs live by the memory of
primitive dinosaurs.
ECCENTRIC. Thats how we
could describe the stalactites
that defy gravity in Pozalagua
cave. Experts dont agree on
the causes of this
phenomenon.
Zalla Gees
Balmaseda
Casa de
Juntas de
Avellaneda
Villaverde
de Trucios
Virgen
del
Buen
Suceso
Parque
Ecolgico
de Bizkaia
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Cuevas
POZALAGUA
Sodupe
Gordexola
Carranza
55
Around the Encartaciones TAKE A BREAK
56
he city with the highest number of inhabitants in
the Basque Country had it all: active trade, lively
streets and plenty to do and see. But something was
missing, there was nothing definite to attract outsiders.
However, that something has arrived over recent
decades in the shape of new infrastructures the
impeccable Metro the restoration of several buildings
and, above all, the birth of the Guggenheim Museum
Bilbao. The titanium and glass colossus designed by
Frank O. Gehry has brought an unmistakable image to
this attractive, plural, cosmopolitan and welcoming
borough; big but friendly. As Pio Baroja once wrote,
Bilbao is becoming increasingly dense and interesting.
Bilbao is enormous. Its rambling metropolitan area is
not only a place of residence for most of the inhabitants
of Bizkaia, but for almost half of the entire Basque
population.
The capital of Bizkaia, the toponym of which would
seem to come from Bi albo in Basque, meaning two
sides, in reference to the two banks of the Nervin
Estuary on which it stands, was founded in the Middle
Ages. The Lord of Bizkaia, Don Diego Lpez de Haro,
awarded the title of borough in 1300 to what had until
then been little more than a small village of black-
smiths, seamen and farmers. Agriculture has
disappeared with time, but iron and the sea have
continued to define Bilbao down through the years. The
iron of the nearby mines, already extracted and used as
far back as Roman times, led to the creation of a great
number of foundries, predecessors of the heavy iron
and steel industry which was to bring industrial
revolution to the area.
The fact that the estuary was largely navigable meant
that its port, safer than those on the coast, handled the
Castilian merchandise heading for Europe. Queen Juana
granted the right to create a Trade Consulate as far back
as 1511. Early foreign trade relations began with
Brussels and Nantes. This trade relationship later grew
with Great Britain, from which coal was imported and to
which steel was exported. In fact, in comparison with
the increasing influence of France on Donostia-San
Sebastin, Bilbao has always considered itself as being
the Basque capital with the most British style.
Although the first blast furnaces were already being
assembled in the mid-19th century, Bilbao didnt
actually take off until having recovered from the last
siege of the Carlist Wars in 1874. From then on it joined
the parish churches of Abando and Begoa,
experienced expansion and saw the construction of
significant buildings such as the Teatro Arriaga, the
Stock Exchange or the Alhndiga. Seen from the socio-
economic angle, the industrial development of the left
bank of the estuary ran parallel to the triumph of the
local upper classes and their backing of the iron and
steel and seafaring businesses, banking and trading,
The most highly populated of the Basque
metropolis, economic capital of the Country,
cultural benchmark due to the Guggenheim
Museum of Bilbao and the Euskalduna Conference
Centre and Concert Hall Reborn Bilbao has what
it takes to go out and get what it wants.
B I L B A O
T
57
thus converting Bilbao into the economic capital of the
Basque Country, a fact which is still true today.
The industrial decline had a strong effect on the area.
But it also had positive effects, since Bilbao learned to
increase the diversity of its activities and has
succeeded in bringing an end to the image of an ugly,
grey and polluted city from which it had suffered for
decades.
INTERNATIONAL ARCHITECTS
This change of image was made possible thanks to the
development of ambitious projects related to
infrastructure and equipment, carried out by top-line
international architects. New Bilbao is the work of
names like Norman Foster (the underground), Santiago
Calatrava (Zubizuri or Puente de las Universidades)
and, of course, Frank O. Gehry (Guggenheim Museum
Bilbao).
The Guggenheim has meant an incredible boom, both
for the locals themselves and for the visitors who are
captivated by this surprising titanium, granite and glass
structure opening out like some kind of futurist vessel
onto the estuary, that reflects the changing lights of the
city. In addition to its striking outer coat, the
Guggenheim Museum Bilbao offers 11,000 m
2
of
exhibition space and a continuous programme of
important itinerant exhibitions in the attempt to
increase the popularity, without abandoning rigour, of
contemporary art tendencies.
Not far from the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao,is the
Euskalduna Convention and Music Centre. Located on
the site of what used to be the Euskalduna shipyards,
this building contains an auditorium for 2,200
spectators and installations for the holding of
conventions.The Euskalduna has been rewarded within
the 2003 Apex Awards as The Best Conference Centre
of the World. Regeneration of the old industrial and
port area of the estuary will be finished on completion
of the Abandoibarra project.
Although the renovation of Bilbao is obvious from the
bigger projects, there are also a number of other, more
modest spaces to be found, for example, when going to
a concert or to have a drink. On the La Merced quay, at
the other side of Siete calles area, an old convent has
been made into Bilbo Rock, a centre with practise areas
and a concert hall for younger music. Next to the Albia
gardens, the Caf Antzokia combines drinks, cultural
activities in Basque and performances in a reconverted
cinema.
ON THE RIGHT-HAND BANK OF THE ESTUARY
Despite these more modern options, Bilbaos heart still
beats in the Old Part, which boast far more than just
the Siete calles area for which it is known. The Old
58 58
BILBAO
Bilbaos Town Hall is
one of the emblematic
buildings that lean
over the estuary.
Part, which had to be renovated after the terrible
floods of 1983, is one of the main leisure and
shopping centres of Bilbao. Its pedestrian streets
are lined with classic shops interspersed with
state-of-the-art establishments and any amount of
bars and restaurants in which to taste the best of
Basque cuisine.
Santiago Cathedral, a late 14th century Gothic
construction, presides over the old part of town,
which has spilled over into the Plaza Nueva, the
setting of ludic and festive events, such as the
Sunday market or Santo Toms Fair.
Running beside the estuary is the Arenal, a long
promenade on which many of the local activities
are carried out. Beside here is the symbolic Teatro
Arriaga, dedicated to local composer Juan
Crisstomo de Arriaga and rebuilt after the floods.
The right bank of the estuary running through
Bilbao offers several interesting spots, such as the
Casa Consistorial or Town Hall and Deusto
University, which is administered by the Society of
Jesus.
LA GRAN VIA
Ever since the late 19th century, the Puente del
Arenal has linked the Casco Viejo or Old Part of
town to a typical, likewise 19th century suburb,
consisting of long, regular streets lined with
elegant buildings. The central artery of the suburb
is the Gran Va Don Diego Lpez de Haro, which
the locals simply call the Gran Va. This is a
long avenue running from the Plaza Circular
where glazed banks stand round the statue of Don
Diego Lpez de Haro to that of the Sagrado
Corazn. Taking a stroll along the Gran Va means
discovering the big department stores and banks
interspersed with splendid buildings like the
Diputacin Foral de Bizkaia (Regional County
Council of Bizkaia), the Hacienda Estatal (State
Tax Office), the Gobierno Civil (Police
Headquarters) or the Carlton Hotel, the last three
of which are actually in the Plaza Moya.
Beside the Gran Va are the Albia gardens, a wooded
square on one side of which is the bar Irua, a
famous place in this capital where literary and
political discussion over a cup of coffee is an
ongoing habit. The last stretch of the Gran Va will
likewise take us to Doa Casilda de Iturrizar Park.
Gardens, walkways, pergolas and a large pond all
contribute to making this the centres biggest
green space, with an excellent art gallery greatly
benefited by the Guggenheim effect at one end
the Museo de Bellas Artes.
In order to appreciate Bilbao from a different
angle, we recommend that you take the funicular
railway up to the top of Mount Artxanda or the lift
which, from the Calle Esperanza in the Casco
Viejo, makes it possible to observe the city from a
height and will bring you out near the basilica of
Nuestra Seora de Begoa.
59
Busy streets, lively
shopping precincts,
gardens and squares on
either side of the
estuary. Bilbao is a
capital that quite
obviously offers the
visitor far more than
just the famous
Guggenheim Museum
Bilbao.
Lets start our tour in
the hectic PLAZA DE
ESPAA, also known as
the Plaza Circular.
Making our way down
the Calle Buenos Aires
will bring us to the
backbone of the city,
the estuary. Crossing
the bridge, we can
observe a building with
its own personality, the
AYUNTAMIENTO, or
Town Hall.
Turning to the right will
take us to the ARENAL
gardens where the
locals love to meet and
do all sorts of activities.
Next, well make our
way into the Casco Viejo
past the church of San
Nicols de Bari before
the Calle Correo brings
us out onto the Neo-
classical PLAZA NUEVA
with its 64 porticoed
arches, bars with lively
terraces and Sunday
street market.
Across the square, in
the Calle de la Cruz, is
the MUSEO
ARQUEOLOGICO,
ETNOLOGICO E
HISTORICO VASCO,
home to a collection of
objects and tools used
by the Basques since
prehistory.
Very near here, by now
in the Siete Calles of
the original old quarter,
is SANTIAGO
CATHEDRAL, an
excellent example of
Bizkaian Gothic
architecture. Stop at
the doorway known as
the Portada del Angel
before losing yourself in
the boisterous bars of
the Siete Calles,
coming back out again
at the estuary next to
the CHURCH OF
SAN ANTON, on
which youll see
the boroughs
coat of arms,
and the
MERCADO DE
LA RIBERA.
Make your way
back through the
area until coming to
the Calle
Bidebarrieta, the
street leading to the
majestic TEATRO
ARRIAGA as it
glistens beside the
estuary. Crossing the
constantly busy Puente
del Arenal will
bring us back to
the Plaza de
Espaa. Before
heading down
the Gran Va,
stop for a rest
at the
relaxing
ALBIA
GARDENS,
presided over by the
chronicler Antonio de
Trueba, or have
something to drink in
the ancient Irua caf.
The GRAN VIA,
dedicated to Don Diego
Lpez de Haro, but
given this shorter name
by the locals, is the
capitals most important
banking and shopping
district. Stop in front of
the building housing
the DIPUTACIN
FORAL DE BIZKAIA
and in the large
Plaza Moyua, also
known as the
Plaza
Elptica.
From the Gran Va you
can access DOA
CASILDA PARK, where
youll find a bandstand
often used for open-air
festive activities. This
park, Bilbaos breath of
fresh air, serves as the
entrance to the MUSEO
DE BELLAS ARTES,
and its excellent art
collection.
At the bottom of the
Alameda de Rekalde
youll be met by Puppy,
the cute, flower-coated
mascot of the
GUGGENHEIM
MUSEUM BILBAO,
where you can end your
stroll, either by visiting
the building or by
enjoying the area
surrounding it. Gehrys
construction stands on
the opposite side of the
estuary from Deusto
University.
59
ON FOOT
FOUNDER. Say hello to Diego
Lpez de Haro, Lord of
Bizkaia, whose statue stands
in the Plaza de Espaa. This
man founded the borough of
Bilbao in 1300.
DIFFERENT. Eclectic with a
curious central spire, Bilbaos
Town Hall building is quite
unusual. Receptions held in
this building take place in the
exotic Arab lounge.
PREHISTORIC. Mikeldi, an
idol of uncertain origin, is to
be found in the Museo
Arqueolgico, the ideal place
to learn a bit about Basque
ethnography.
THEATRICAL. The centre of
the local cultural life, if the
modern Euskalduna auditorium
doesnt mind me saying so, the
Teatro Arriaga was inspired by
the Paris Opera.
MUDEJAR. The decoration of
the Irua caf, one of the
citys classics. Other cafs
with an atmosphere of
yesteryear yet still at the
centre of local social life are El
Boulevard and La Granja.
REVISITED. The Guggenheim
boom has served to entice a
number of people back to the
veteran Museo de Bellas Artes,
with its selection of paintings
from different schools.
Bilbao: Much more
than the Guggenheim
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Gipuzkoa has always known how to combine its deep-rooted traditions, the
respect for environment, and the search for technological, business, and cultural
development. One of its best examples is the Sanctuary of Arantzazu, which
gathers the exceptional landscape of the Aizkorri Natural Park, the spirituality,
and the shapes proposed by contemporary creators.
60
61
ourist beaches and sanctuaries such as
those of Loiola and Arantzazu. Towns with
a wealth of monuments and industrial
cities. Farmhouses set against green
mountains and refined cultural activities.
Gipuzkoa is a widely varying province in which
each different region has its own personality. It is
the smallest of the Basque provinces and the one
in which the Basque language is spoken by most
people. Standing between the sea, the mountains
and the border with France, Gipuzkoa offers new
discoveries with every valley.
Bidasoa, Oiartzun, Urumea, Oria, Urola, Deba. All
six are small rivers running almost parallel to one
another through the province of Gipuzkoa from the
Aizkorri and Aralar ranges into the sea at the Bay of
Biscay. These six rivers form valleys separated from
one another by mountains, thus contributing to the
fact that each region constitutes a microcosmos
with its own peculiar characteristics.
The coastal towns, with their arrantzale (fishing)
tradition, are pretty well used to the influx of
tourists who come to enjoy their long, clean
beaches. Zarautz, Donostia and Hondarribia are the
principal centres of this leisurely seaside Gipuzkoa.
This said, visitors wishing to find out more about
Basque culture will have to head inland, where the
inhabitants of the evergreen valleys still live more or
less the same lifestyle as they have done for centuries,
a lifestyle based on the farmhouse (baserria) as a unit of
agricultural and livestock production. Some of these
farmhouses, in addition to their traditional activities,
now offer accommodation, or agroturismo. This is the
best way to discover areas that dont receive many
tourists and are not highly developed, but which
nevertheless offer heaps of attractions.
This areas topographic conditions led large parts of
the province to live for centuries in virtual isolation
and with only the very occasional outside contact.
Romanization in Gipuzkoa was late in arriving and
only had a superficial effect on its eastern extreme,
leaving remains in Irun (the Roman necropolis of
Santa Elena hermitage), Hondarribia and Oiartzun.
But Gipuzkoa, to which neither the Celts nor the
Muslims arrived, did have a certain amount of
communication with the exterior in the Middle Ages
thanks to the two alternative Roads to Santiago, one
along the coast and another via the interior although
contacts were limited to the areas near these roads.
Definitively annexed to Castile in the 8th century,
the Castilian kings founded in Gipuzkoa numerous
municipalities from which to control the ways of
communication and the borders with the Kingdom of
Navarre. These municipalities, which went on to
further expand in later centuries, contain the highest
concentration of artistic and architectural heritage.
Ever since the Middle Ages, the inhabitants of
Gipuzkoa have devoted themselves to agriculture,
coastal fishing (then including whales) and ironwork
to which they would, in time, add trade. During the
19th century industrial revolution, while Bizkaia
tended to work at heavy industry, Gipuzkoa preferred
to specialise in the light industry sectors, such as
paper or machine tools.
Industrial concerns established themselves fairly
evenly throughout the province, thus contributing to
a balanced distribution of the population. But
despite the fact that Donostia-San Sebastin and its
area have important demographic weight, the capital
of Gipuzkoa still has the lowest population ratios in
the Basque Country.
This decentralisation means that each region has, to
a greater or lesser extent, its own monuments,
industrial areas and natural spaces, not to mention
an excellent selection of leisure activities, and
gastronomy, thanks to the unforgettable fact that
this is a land of great chefs. These are just some of
the characteristics of todays Gipuzkoa, rich in
attractions and economic diversification.
The argizaiola or
mortuary candle is a
traditional Basque
element still used in
the rural areas of
Gipuzkoa.
61
T
Gipuzkoa
62 62
ROUND AND ABOUT THE COAST
Gipuzkoa begins to the east with the Bidasoa-
Txingudi region, the border position of which has
marked an unsettled past still recalled today at the
local festive military parades. HONDARRIBIA was
built as a fortified town standing atop a hill from
where it dominated the Bidasoa estuary and the
border with France. Despite the number of battles
to have taken place before its walls, its old town is
still in good condition and contains a number of
singular buildings presided over by the castle of
Carlos V, now a national parador. As well as
discovering the local beach, a visit has just got to
be made to the fishermans neighbourhood of La
Marina to see the houses with their colourful
flower-filled balconies, not to mention the whole
row of bars and terraces on the street below.
The now busy shopping area of IRUN was the
place chosen for settlement by the Romans due to
its strategic situation, as explained in the museum
at the hermitage of Santa Elena.
Between Irun and Donostia-San Sebastin is a
highly populated area, a corridor running from the
coastal hill of Jaizkibel to the Aiako Harria (Peas
de Aia). We can access this natural park from
OIARTZUN through the Arditurri Greenway, which
finishes in the mine with the same name.
ERRENTERIA has particularly suffered from
industrial deterioration, al-though it nevertheless
has an interesting old quarter. Less affected is
Pasai Donibane, the prettiest of the three parts of
PASAIA, the biggest port in Gipuzkoa. Pasai
Donibane consists of one long, picturesque street
running round the bay and lined with typical
fishermens houses, small mansions and stately
homes.
Following the river Urumea inland will bring us to
ASTIGARRAGA, the cider capital, and to
HERNANI, one of the most history-packed towns
in Gipuzkoa. This township is home of the Museo
Chillida-Leku, the open-air museum dedicated to
the work of sculptor Eduardo Chillida, standing in
a 12-hectare garden containing over 40 large
sculptures. The Museums restored 16th century
farmhouse offers a selection of smaller-sized
works.
Heading along the coast from Donostia-San
Sebastin will bring us to ORIO, with its beach
and its old quarter, where the houses are built so
close to one another that they form a real wall. The
entrance into Pagoeta Park, a splendid natural
area in which we will find the Agorregi forge and
mill, is accessed from the Orio-Zarautz road.
Elegant ZARAUTZ beach is the longest in
Gipuzkoa and a real surfers paradise. Zarautz has
a wealth of architecturally interesting buildings
such as the Torre Luzea or Palacio de Narros. This
second most important tourist spot, only surpassed
GIPUZKOA
Dotted with farmbouses
and tiny hamlets,
he valleys of inland
Gipuzkoa give these areas
a definite country flavour.
63
With the entire coast of
Gipuzkoa before us.
Westwards from
Donostia-San Sebastin
to Mutriku; and to the
east, as far as
Hondarribia.
Lighthouses and
beaches, villages and
towns, all with a flavour
of the sea for the bluest
of alternative routes.
ROUTE A. To get to
know the coastline to the
west of Donostia-San
Sebastin we can, time
permitting, take the
N-634 through
USURBIL, with its
church of San Salvador,
AGINAGA, the capital of
elver production, and the
fishing village of ORIO.
Either that, or we can
take the A-8 motorway
directly to Zarautz, from
where we will continue
on our way along the
N-634 coast road.
ZARAUTZ, the town to
receive the greatest
number of visitors in
Gipuzkoa after the
capital, has a long
beach, plenty to do,
lovely medieval
buildings, the Torre
Luzea, the church of
Santa Mara la Real, and
even a Photomuseum
where photography buffs
have a rendezvous of
their own.
The silhouette of Mount
San Antn in GETARIA,
known as the mouse of
Getaria because of its
shape, guides us to this
charming village,
famous for having been
the birthplace of both
the navigator, Juan
Sebastin Elkano, and
the fashion designer,
Cristbal Balenciaga.
Dont leave without
visiting the church of
San Salvador, a
handsome Gothic
temple with an irregular
ground plan made to fit
the site on which it
stands and two towers,
one of which no longer
has a top.
The next stop on our
circuit is ZUMAIA, a
village standing at the
mouth of the river
Urola. It has two
beaches and a number
of culturally interesting
visits: the church of
San Pedro with an
altarpiece by Juan de
Antxieta and the
museums dedicated to
Zuloaga and Julio
Beobide. The natural
surroundings of its
littoral are of important
geological interest.
Between Zumaia and
Deba, on the pass
named ALTO DE
ITZIAR, we should
make a stop at the
sanctuary of Nuestra
Seora de Itziar.
DEBA has a pleasant
beach and another
church dedicated to
Santa
Mara la
Real.
MUTRIKU,
the
westernmost
town on the
coast of
Gipuzkoa,
offers
Saturrarn
beach and an
interesting old quarter.
ROUTE B. Taking the
N-1 from Donostia-San
Sebastin towards the
east will lead us to the
bay of Pasaia, home of
the biggest port in
Gipuzkoa. Taking the
deviation through Lezo,
we will come to the most
picturesque part of this
area, PASAI DONIBANE.
One single street running
parallel to the bay
threads between the
buildings leading into the
Plaza de Santiago. The
house where Victor Hugo
lived and the church of
San Juan Bautista are
both worth a mention.
Returning towards
Lezo, the visitor will
take the road leading
up to the top of
Mount Jaizkibel and
enjoy the views of
the sea, stopping on the
way back down the
other side towards
Hondarribia to admire
the sanctuary and fort
of Guadalupe in their
lovely surroundings.
The old quarter of
HONDARRIBIA,
declared a national
monument, forms
an impressive collection
of emblazoned
buildings,
among
which is the
outstanding
castle of
Carlos V
(now a
parador
nacional
named El
Emperador).
Beneath this
area and not
far from the
sea-front
promenade
is the busy,
colourful
fishermans
quarter of La Marina.
We will return through
town of IRUN, which
used to stand on the
border with France.
Its hermitage of Santa
Elena houses the
remains of a Roman
necropolis, while the
church of Nuestra
Seora del Juncal, the
local patron saint,
contains an outstanding
11th century statue of
the Virgin Mary.
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LIVELY. The seaside
promenade of Zarautz literally
bubbles with activity. Terraces
and vanguard sculptures line
the long, pleasant walkway
stretching from the Palacio de
Narros to the restaurant owned
and run by Carlos Arguiano.
RICH. The fresh fish grilled in
the streets of Getaria and Orio.
Its a sin not to wash it down
with the delicious local white
txakoli wine.
STEEP. The cliffs between
Zumaia and Deba, where low
tide uncovers a tide flat.
This area is hidden from the
road and is only for lovers of
natures wilder side.
PICTURESQUE. The colourful
fishermens houses of Pasai
Donibane. For a good view,
take the ferry over to Pasai
San Pedro.
UNUSUAL. San Antn islet,
rechristened the mouse of
Getaria because of its shape.
This little mount also contains
a variety of vegetation and a
pretty lighthouse.
IN THE MIDDLE. The Isla de
los Faisanes, beside Irun and
in the middle of the river
Bidasoa, is a no-mans-land
standing between two
countries on which the
Pyrenean Treaty was signed.
The lighthouse itinerary
TAKE A BREAK
ROUTE B ROUTE A
64 64
GIPUZKOA
The area of Zarautz and
Getaria (at the back, its
Mouse) is one of the
most popular places in
Gipuzkoas coast.
by Donostia-San Sebastin, becomes a busy
cultural and festive venue during the summer
months.
Zarautz marks the beginning of the most
spectacular stretch of the N-634, or the coast
road, which closely follows the sea until reaching
the village of Zumaia. Half way between the two is
GETARIA, balanced on a narrow strip of land
heading out towards the sea and culminating in
Mount San Antn, popularly known as the mouse
of Getaria. This village is the birthplace of
famous people such as the navigator Juan
Sebastin Elkano or the fashion designer Cristbal
Balenciaga. In addition to tasting txakoli and
grilled fish, we should also visit the church of
San Salvador, one of the best examples of Gothic
architecture to be found in the Basque Country.
ZUMAIA has two beaches: Itzurun and Santiago,
and a fabulous old quarter with the remains of its
medieval layout. After having walked around its
steep streets, take a pleasurable stroll along the
long maritime promenade accompanying the river
Urola on its last stretch before flowing into the sea.
Before reaching Zumaia, the Urola, born on the
border between Gipuzkoa and Alava, runs through
a valley packed with interesting places including
Zestoa, Azpeitia and Azkoitia. Well before the
medicinal properties of its waters were known,
ZESTOA was already inhabited by important
families, such as the residents of the Gothic
Palacio de Lili, now a listed building, not to
mention the Town Hall, likewise listed. But Zestoa
is famous for its spa centre, a well-known place of
rest and thermal cures.
AZPEITIA, with its Museo Vasco del Ferrocarril,
and AZKOITIA, with its parish church of Santa
Mara la Real, have plenty of attractions in
themselves. Both stand at the same distance on
either side of the grandiose Loiola Sanctuary, built
next to the tower-house where Saint Ignatius of
Loiola, founder of the Society of Jesus, was born.
Although construction of this building began in the
17th century, the expulsion of Jesuits from Spain
meant that the work wasnt finished until the late
19th century. Surrounded by rambling gardens
and a large square, the basilica of Loiola was
designed by one of Berninis disciples. The most
outstanding elements are its Baroque facade and
its 65-metre dome.
Back on the coast, DEBA still has the flavour of
traditional summer resorts, with a carefully tended
boulevard and pretty villas. This village was in fact
built by the inhabitants of the neighbouring
ITZIAR, located on a hill standing somewhat
inland where we can visit the sanctuary of the
same name. Deba leads us into the Lastur valley
with its very definite rural atmosphere.
Hidden away in MUTRIKU, the last village on the
coast of Gipuzkoa, is the house where Admiral
Txurruka was born. This township is home of one
65
Three styles for three
local sanctuaries:
Romanesque in
La Antigua, Zumarraga;
Baroque in Loiola;
and vanguard in
Arantzazu. A circuit
of art and spirituality
through the Urola
and Deba river valleys.
From Donostia, we will
take the A-8 motorway
as far as ZESTOA. From
here, having first
stopped to admire the
lovely Palacio de Lili
and the famous local
spa, we will continue
the course of the river
Urola via the GI-631.
Well soon arrive in
AZPEITIA, standing
directly beneath the
massif of Izarraitz. Well
worth a visit is the
parish church of San
Sebastin de Soreasu,
with its tall columns
and, next to it, the
Mudejar-style house of
the local musician,
Juan de Antxieta.
Also interesting and
unusual is the Museo
del Ferrocarril, with its
ancient
engines and
wagons, not to
mention an
old station.
Another good
place to visit
is Ingurugiro
Etxea, a centre
specialised in
explaining the
planets
environmental
problems.
Standing
between the
neighbouring
Azpeitia and
Azkoitia is the
magnificent
LOIOLA
SANCTUARY, with its
esplanade, its basilica
topped with an
enormous dome, and
the adjacent house in
which Ignatius de
Loiola was born. Not to
be missed.
Once in AZKOITIA,
home of the Caballeritos
de Azkoitia, a group of
enlightened Basque
noblemen, we can visit
Santa Mara la Real and
admire the lovely
alterpiece. The organ
played in this same
church was the last one
made by the famous
Cavaill Coll
manufacturers.
Well make our next
stop in ZUMARRAGA in
order to visit the
Romanesque sanctuary
of Santa Mara, better
known as La Antigua,
located on a vantage
point surrounded by
mountains. This town is
the birthplace of Miguel
Lpez de Legazpi,
conqueror of the
Philippines, who was
born in one of the
tower-houses still
standing in the Artiz
neighbourhood. A
statue raised in his
memory stands in the
porticoed town square.
In URRETXU, beside
Zumarraga, visit the
parish church of San
Martn de Tours and take
a look at the statue of
Iparragirre, the bard who
composed Gernikako
arbola in the square of
the same name.
Making our way through
the centre of LEGAZPI
will bring us out at the
Mirandaola forge, next
to the hermitage
evoking the miracle of
the Holy Cross. Leaving
Udana pass behind us,
we will come to one of
the gems of Gipuzkoa,
the impressive village of
OATI. In addition to
the harmony of its
Renaissance
Universidad de Sancti
Spiritus, according to
some the best example
of civil architecture in
the Basque Country, the
parish church of San
Miguel, with its cloister
standing over the river
plus the several tower-
houses and mansions
make Oati one of
those special places
that simply do not exist
elsewhere.
From here we will take
the GI-3591 up to
ARANTZAZU. This trip
is well worth the effort.
Set in a splendid gorge
beneath the Sierra de
Aizkorri (nature
reserve), this Sanctuary
was constructed in
honour of the Virgin
seen in a hawthorn tree
by a young shepherd in
the 15th century. The
new basilica of
Arantzazu, built in the
1950s, is an
impressive, futuristic-
looking building.
Back in Oati, we will
head through the Deba
valley (GI-632 and
627) towards
BERGARA, where
Generals Maroto and
Espartero brought an
end to the Carlist War
with what is known as
the Bergara embrace.
The Plaza de San
Martn accommodates
the most
symbolic
buildings: the
Baroque Town
Hall, Jauregi
House with
its bas-relief
and the Real
Seminario
Patritico
Bascongado,
presently home of the
Open University. The
church of San Pedro de
Ariznoa, and the
unusual Agarre granary
are other local places of
interest.
Passing through
Soraluze we will come
to ELGOIBAR, where we
can admire the tower of
the parish church of
San Bartolom and visit
the Museo de la
Mquina-Herramienta
before returning to
Donostia-San Sebastin
via the A-8.
RELAXING. The Zestoa spa
and its medicinal waters
became fashionable during
the belle poque. Today new
installations have been added
to its past splendour.
RAILWAY. You can climb up
into a rattling steam engine
at the Museo del Ferrocarril,
located in the old Azpeitia
railway station on the Urola
line.
UNIQUE. The wooden
structure supporting the roof
of La Antigua. The image of
the Virgin Mary with babe in
arms is another attraction to
be found in this cathedral
of Basque hermitages.
RED-HOT. The iron worked
in the Mirandaola forge,
in Legazpi. An ancient
installation run by a mill
where we can see how
blacksmiths once worked.
TINY. The image of the
popular Virgen de Arantzazu,
barely 36 centimetres tall, is
highlighted by the surrounding
wooden altarpiece, work of
Lucio Muoz.
SCIENTIFIC. The Real
Seminario de Bergara was a
place of reference for the 18th
century scientific world.
This is where the Elhuyar
brothers discovered tungsten.
Loiola
Santuario
Ntra. Sra. de
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Santuario
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The three temples
TAKE A BREAK
66 66
GIPUZKOA
A lighthouse puts the
finishing touch to the
coastal Mount San Antn,
known as The Getaria
Mousedue to the shape
it takes when seen
from a distance.
of the least developed and most charming
beaches, Saturrarn.
THROUGH THE INLAND VALLEYS
To the far south of Gipuzkoa is LEINTZ-GATZAGA,
a village related to salt production. The royal road
of Castile ran through here, and several gateways
leading into the borough and the odd interesting
building can still be seen.
One particularly attractive village is OATI, which
was an independent manor until the mid-19th
century. This borough contains architectural
examples ranging from the Gothic church of San
Miguel to the beautiful Renaissance Universidad
de Sancti Spiritus. Not far from Oati is the
Arantzazu Sanctuary, a place of pilgrimage and
outstanding example of contemporary art.
BERGARA is yet another interesting borough with
attractive buildings and a place in the annals of
history due to the embrace with which Generals
Espartero and Maroto brought an end to the first
Carlist War. The old part has any number of
ancestral homes and churches, not to mention the
building that once housed the Royal Seminary.
TOWARDS THE GOIERRI REGION
On the way to the Goierri region, located on the
upper Oria, is the town that was the capital of
Gipuzkoa for a time, TOLOSA, which is famous,
apart from its important paper-making industry, for
its traditional manufacture of berets, its
confectionery specialities, its choral competition
and its fun-filled carnival. One of the sweetest
visits in town is to the Museo de la Confitera.
The centre of this region could be established in
ORDIZIA, also founded as a borough for defensive
purposes and the setting of an important weekly
market. This small town stands right next to
BEASAIN, from which we can head for LAZKAO,
with its important monasteries, or for SEGURA, for
centuries an obligatory passing place on the Castile-
France road. It still has stretches of its ancient wall
and a number of important family mansions.
On the border with Alava and Navarre, among the
Aizkorri foothills, we will come to ZEGAMA, the centre
of which is surrounded by little neighbourhoods and
scattered farmhouses. Standing on its outskirts,
Otzaurte is the starting point of a path leading to the
area around the San Adrin tunnel, a historic place of
passage between Gipuzkoa and Alava.
Further up the river Urola, the industrial towns of
ZUMARRAGA and URRETXU share one single
centre. Zumarraga houses one of the most out-
standing Basque hermitages, that of the Gothic
Santa Mara de la Antigua, with an overreaching
wooden structure serving to support the roof. Near
here, in LEGAZPI, the Mirandaola forge recalls the
regions past as a land of blacksmiths.
67
With the silhouettes of
Aralar and Txindoki as
splendid backdrops,
this itinerary through
the area of Tolosa and
the Goierri region (in
Basque, high village)
will take us to areas
that have never lost
their rural flavour.
Leaving Donostia-San
Sebastin via the N-1,
we can make our first
stop in TOLOSA. The
capital of Gipuzkoa
during part of the 19th
century, this borough
has a rambling old
quarter with a number
of interesting public
buildings and
mansions. The parish
church of Santa Ana
and the Tinglado
(market) building catch
ones eye in this place
of lively cultural
activity, the most
exciting moments of
which are the
International Choral
Competition and the
Puppet Festival.
From ALEGIA, with its
interesting Zubi Zarra
(old bridge) and Gothic
Christ in the church of
San Juan Bautista, well
take the GI-2133
through a number of
little rural hamlets
standing on the foothills
of Mount Txindoki.
AMEZKETA offers a
pretty selection of
popular architecture, as
well as the church of
San Bartolom and the
open fields of San
Martn. Further on, in
ABALTZISKETA, is the
splendid church of San
Juan Bautista with its
Romanesque doorway.
Following the road
upwards will bring us to
the neighbourhood of
LARRAITZ, which is
actually part of
Abaltzisketa. We should
make a stop in this
lovely natural landscape
at the the hermitage of
Nuestra Seora de los
Remedios, venerated by
shepherds and
mountaineers.
The road wends its way
down from Larraitz,
through ZALDIBIA
where we can taste the
local mondejus (black
pudding made from
mutton), until leaving
the rural air behind and
entering a more
populated and
industrial area where
two towns merge into
one: Ordizia and
Beasain.
ORDIZIA houses a
number of ancestral
homes (Zabala, Ibarbia,
with its peculiar corner
balcony in the Plaza del
Mercado, Barrenetxea,
etc.), the church of La
Asuncin and a pretty
park called Oianguren.
In Beasain we will find
the basilica and
hermitage dedicated
to San Martn de
Loinaz.
We will continue on
our way (via the N-1,
followed by the GI-
2637) towards
SEGURA. Its easy to
imagine the
importance of this
village in the Middle
Ages as a place of
defence on the Road
to Santiago. Family
homes and the remains
of walls abound in the
centre of town, while
the surrounding areas
are packed with
hermitages.
Not to be missed in
Segura are the
Lardizabal mansion,
now the Town Hall, or
the church of Nuestra
Seora de la Asuncin.
Although Gothic, the 42
sculptures of its
singular altarpiece, the
work of Luis Carmona,
are Churrigueresque in
style.
From Segura it is well
worth making the effort
to visit ZERAIN, a little
village set in the hills
with emblazoned
houses, fabulous views
and an Ethnographic
Museum.
Returning to Segura, we
will take the GI-3571 to
MUTILOA, another
lovely enclave
surrounded by
farmhouses, before
continuing via the
GI-3572 to
ORMAIZTEGI.
Here there is still an
impressively high
railway bridge built by a
disciple of Eiffel, the
Museo Zumalakarregi
and the church of San
Andrs, home of a
series of Pre-
Romanesque geometric
drawings.
We will head back to
Donostia-San Sebastin
via Beasain and the N-1.
SWEET. The collection, put
together by a confectioner
named Gorrotxategi, of the tools
used to make sweetmeats can
be seen in Tolosas curious
Museo de la Confitera.
IMPOSING. Txindoki (1,346
metres), is the most
emblematic summit in the
Aralar nature reserve.
Mountain lovers can reach the
top in two hours from Larraitz.
DELICIOUS. The food
produced in this rural area.
Two weekly markets, on
Wednesdays in Ordizia and
Saturdays in Tolosa, serve as
the local showcases.
MEDIEVAL. The old part of
Segura, founded in the 13th
century to protect the entrance
to San Adrin tunnel. Proof of
its past importance are its
doorways and stately homes.
RURAL. What better than a
small village in which to
discover the Basque rural
world. Zerain, with its Museo
Etnogrfico, makes this
possible.
HISTORIC. The house where the
Carlist General Zumalakarregi
was born in Ormaiztegi and the
museum of the same name give
us a didactic look at this
character and the unsettled
years of his life.
Andoain
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Inland Gipuzkoa
TAKE A BREAK
68
city of eye-catching beauty, Donostia-San
Sebastin aims to rid itself of nostalgia for a past
when it was royaltys chosen summer home and
the in place with high society, preferring to remain,
thanks to its projects, its pedestrian precincts and its
outstanding cultural activities, simply human.
Bella Easo, Perla del Ocano, incomparable setting...
The expressions of admiration for this city which has a
strong power of attraction dating back to the 19th
century are often clichs, or at worst downright bad
taste. This said, every new visitor to Donostia-San
Sebastin falls under its spell, frequently going on to
declare that this is one of the most beautiful places in
the world.
Neither the Donostiarras, as the locals are called, nor
visitors ever tire of the fabulous views offered by La
Concha Bay, around which sits the city, serene and
elegant. The La Concha and Ondarreta promenades are
lined with a pleasureful combination of buildings and
their colours, the gentle shades of the beaches, the
reflections of the sea and the vegetation on the three
surrounding hills: Mount Urgull, standing behind the
Parte Vieja, and the Castillo de la Mota bearing the
mammoth statue of Christ on its summit; to the west,
Mount Igeldo; and, right in the middle of the bay,
Santa Clara Island, to which there is a ferry service
from the harbour.
Both hills, to which we must add mount Ulia at the far
end of the Zurriola Beach, are exceptional vantage
points from which to enjoy a view of the citys rooftops
of Donostia-San Sebastian. Mount Urgull is a natural
fortress which has served throughout history for military
purposes before becoming a city park rapidly accessed
from the Parte Vieja. Igeldo is well known for its views
and quaint attraction park, aged and charming like the
funicular railway that runs to and from Ondarreta.
The city so loved by todays visitor is relatively new. The
original consisted of two tiny centres: a fishing harbour
next to a walled area known as the Parte Vieja, and an
agricultural enclave on the area now occupied by the
neighbourhood of Antiguo. The river Urumea had not
yet been channelled and the beach promenades had
not yet been built, meaning that the rest of what is now
Donostia-San Sebastin was nothing but marshes and
sandbanks.
The walled area, packed with houses, formerly of wood
and later of stone, has always had a tendency towards
disaster. It has been destroyed 12 times by the same
number of fires since the 13th century. The last and
most dramatic of these took place on 31st August
1813. Donostia-San Sebastin, a fortress several times
occupied by the French army, was under siege by
Napoleonic soldiers when it was attacked by the Anglo-
Portuguese allied troops. What was meant to be an
action to free the city turned into terrible pillaging and
burning that razed the entire city to the ground, with
the exception of the two churches and a row of houses
known since then as the Calle 31 de Agosto.
DONOS T I A
S A N
S E B A S T I N
Its beauty aroused passions in queens and continues
to captivate those who come to visit. Donostia has
abandoned words of praise and endeavours to fulfil
the role of a cultural and balanced city with its eyes
firmly set on the future.
A
69
Throughout the 19th century, the new Donostia suffered
a period of relative decline finally brought to an end
when the doctor treating Queen Isabel II recommended
that she bathe in the Bay of Biscay to improve her skin
problem. She chose San Sebastin. For more than two
decades until her exile, the Queen was faithful to her
summer rendezvous with the city, a habit likewise
adopted by her courtiers.
In 1863, Isabel II fulfilled an old dream on ordering
demolition of the walls preventing the expansion of an
enclave restricted to the Parte Vieja. No longer walled
in, San Sebastin spread over the reclaimed marshes in
the shape of a suburb, designed by Antonio Cortzar,
comprising regular streets and stately buildings.
Development of the new centre was rounded off with the
construction of highly symbolic buildings such as the
Gran Casino, now home of the Town Hall.
Gambling and the summer court the Queen Regent
Mara Cristina continued the tradition gave rise to
what was to become known as the Belle poque, a
period starting towards the end of the 19th and tapering
out over the first two decades of the 20th century,
during which San Sebastin became European high
societys favourite meeting place. But the prohibition of
gambling and the Civil War soon put paid to this
splendid golden age.
CULTURAL CAPITAL
The capital of Gipuzkoa is today a city dedicated to
services with somewhere around 180,000 inhabitants.
While Bilbao bears the greatest financial weight and
Vitoria-Gasteiz covers the principal administrative
aspects, Donostia-San Sebastin receives more tourists,
offers more culture and holds more conventions than
the other two.
Tourism in this province doesnt suffer from the
overcrowding of other areas. Here visitors do the same
as the locals: they go for walks, bathe in the sea and
wander round the lively bars. For those looking for a bit
of luxury, the city offers a number of choices, starting
with its world-famous restaurants and continuing with
its new casino, the Zubieta racecourse or its spa
complex.
One everyday luxury is the never-ending selection of
cultural activities, a long-standing tradition which is
somewhat unusual for a city of this size. In addition to
top-line events (the International Film Festival, Musical
Fortnight, Jazz Festival) the capital of San Sebastin
offers other interesting rendezvous (Summer Courses,
Fantasy and Horror Film Festival, Maiatza Dantzan,
Advertising Festival, Theatre Festival), including a
number of more localised weekly activities at the
cultural centres in the different neighbourhoods.
Although since 1912 all of the most important events
on the local cultural agenda have taken place in the
magnificent Teatro Victoria Eugenia, this building has
now passed on part of its protagonism to the Kursaal
Centre, housed in the two glass cubes designed by
Rafael Moneo which stand proudly beside the Zurriola
70 70
DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN
From Mount Urgulls
summit, the image of the
Sagrado Corazn (Sacred
Heart) dominates the
whole city of Donostia-
San Sebastin.
Beach on the other side of the river Urumea.
They constitute the main headquarters of two of
the events that revolt this peaceful Cantabrian
place: the International Film Festival and the
Quincena Musical (Musical Fortnight), and are
now also the chosen setting for an enormous
number of conventions.
The Kursaal, the bullring and leisure centre of
Illumbe, the amusing and instructive Miramon Kutxa
Science Hall, and Oteizas "Construccin Vaca"
("Empty Construction") sculpture, located in the Paseo
Nuevo (New Avenue) are new in the eyes of those who
havent visited Donostia-San Sebastian for years now.
TAKING A STROLL
The heart of the capital is the fairly recently
pedestrianalised Parte Vieja, a succession of
shops, bars and restaurants where locals and
visitors of all classes, ages and styles rub elbows.
No-one can resist the pleasure of a few little
drinks and hors doeuvres (respectively known as
txikiteo and pintxos). The Parte Vieja has three
buildings of historical interest: San Vicente
church, a solid 16th century Gothic construction;
the San Telmo Museum, a one-time Dominican
convent now undergoing renovation; and the
basilica of Santa Mara del Coro. This area is
likewise home of the remodelled Mercado de La
Bretxa and the Plaza de la Constitucin.
The shelter of the harbour is shared by fishing and
leisure vessels alike. Following the quay round to
the end past a series of typical restaurants will
bring us out at the Aquarium. The panoramic
glass-covered tunnel running beneath the
oceanarium is the most outstanding feature of a
visit full of surprises.
Taking a stroll is one of the favourite local
pastimes, and helps visitors to fully enjoy the city.
Those wanting to go a bit further can follow the
coastline via the over 7 km of maritime promenade
without having to cross one single road.
The two most classical stretches of this walk are
the Paseo Nuevo and the Paseo de La Concha. The
former makes its way round Mount Urgull, and
offers its most spectacular image during the
September and October storms, when the waves
come high over the sea wall. The peculiar
tamarind trees, although correctly named
tamarisk, and the classic railing lining the
promenade are the most characteristic features of
the Paseo de La Concha, which continues as far as
the gardens and Paseo de Ondarreta. This
promenade is rounded off with Eduardo Chillidas
Peine de los Vientos (The Windcomb) sculpture.
At the point where these two promenades meet,
standing in beautiful gardens, is the English style
Palacio de Miramar commissioned by Queen Mara
Cristina. The Palacio de Aiete and Cristina-Enea
Park are other breaths of fresh air. Passers-by can
also decide to follow the river Urumea, stroll
around the centres pedestrian precincts with their
many shops, the Plaza de Gipuzkoa or the
renovated Boulevard, standing between the Parte
Vieja and the new centre of this refined, moderate
and cosmopolitan city.
71
ON FOOT
Beaches surrounded by
mountains, any
amounts of places to
visit on foot, an old
quarter with
flavour and
stately buildings.
Its not surprising
that the Royals
chose Donostia-
San Sebastin as
their summer
home.
Well start our
walk in front of
the BUEN
PASTOR
CATHEDRAL.
Look out for
its 75
metre
Neogothic
spire.
Immediately
behind the
Cathedral is
the KOLDO
MITXELENA
CULTURAL
CENTRE,
where youll
find the
latest in
books and
exhibitions.
Crossing the pedestrian
Plaza de Bilbao with its
circular fountain will
bring us out at the river
Urumea and the
profusely decorated
MARIA CRISTINA
BRIDGE with structures
reminiscent of Parisian
constructions at each
of its four corners.
Make your way over
this bridge and turn
immediately left
onto the PASEO
DE FRANCIA for a
quiet stroll
between
the
reflections
of
the
river
and
mansions
with a
decidedly
French
influence.
Coming back
over the river
Urumea via
Santa
Catalina
Bridge will
take us
into the
AVENIDA
DE LA
LIBERTAD,
a stately
avenue
packed
with
shops
and
banks.
Turning down the
pedestrian Calle
Txurruka will take us to
the PLAZA DE
GIPUZKOA, a pretty
arcaded square with
gardens, home of the
Diputacin Foral de
Gipuzkoa (Gipuzkoa
Regional Council). Look
for the monument in
memory of the musician
Usandizaga between
the trees.
Just near here are the
Okendo gardens, which
stand between two
important early 19th
century buildings, the
HOTEL MARIA
CRISTINA and the
TEATRO VICTORIA
EUGENIA.
On the other side of the
Zurriola youll come to
an unusual building
comprising 10,000
glass panels. The citys
new Convention Centre
and auditorium, Rafael
Moneos PALACIO
KURSAAL, looks
proudly out over the
Zurriola beach.
Retracing your
steps youll
come to the
BOULEVARD,
a busy street
separating the
newer part of
town weve just
visited from
the Parte
Vieja. Well
make our way
into the old
town via the
Calle Narrika.
The arcaded
PLAZA DE LA
CONSTITUCION, one
time Town Hall
headquarters, is the hub
of local celebrations,
including the Tamborrada
Drum Parade. Just beside
SAN VICENTE CHURCH,
the oldest in the city, is
the MUSEO DE SAN
TELMO, an ancient
convent restructured as a
museum on Basque
culture and containing a
number of enormous
paintings by Jos Mara
Sert.
The Calle 31 de Agosto,
the only one to survive
the terrible 1813 fire,
leads to the BASILICA
OF SANTA MARIA DEL
CORO, the citys patron
saint. From here you
can visit the picturesque
HARBOUR and the new
AQUARIUM, or its
neighbouring Museo
Naval.
Returning through the
harbour and round the
splendid La Concha
Bay, are the Alderdi-
Eder gardens and the
large building presently
housing the TOWN
HALL. The Gran Casino
was a huge attraction
for aristocrats from all
over Europe from 1887
until gambling was
banned.
If youve got time,
take a peaceful walk
along the PASEO DE
LA CONCHA to the
English-style PALACIO
DE MIRAMAR,
or continue past
Ondarreta until
reaching the iron and
granite of the PEINE
DE LOS VIENTOS
(The Windcomb)
ensemble.
FORGOTTEN. So much
seaside promenade tends to
make the visitor forget the
river Urumea. Note that the
locals love its French-flavoured
walks and elegant bridges.
BULLFIGHTING. The elegant
Plaza de la Constitucin used
to double as a bull ring, hence
the numbers above the
different balconies, which
were rented out as boxes.
VENERATED. San Sebastin and
the Virgen del Coro, male and female
patron saints of the city. The arrow-
riddled Saint Sebastian can be seen
in a sculpture on the doorway, while
the Virgen del Coro is depicted in oil
on the altarpiece of the basilica.
PROTAGONISTS. Although
there are over 3,000 fish in
the oceanarium, the biggest
attractions are the two sharks
and a whale skeleton.
ENGLISH. Queen Mara
Cristina commissioned the
Miramar Palace along the lines
of an English in a city with a
strong French influence.
BEAUTIFUL. The combination
of the area developed by Pea
Ganchegui with the three iron
sculptures by Chillida and the
waves of the sea make the Peine
de los Vientos a magic spot.
Donostia-San Sebastin:
Ancient and modern
Aquarium
PEINE DEL
VIENTO
CATEDRAL DEL
BUEN PASTOR
Ayuntamiento
Museo
San Telmo
Palacio
Kursaal
Diputacin
Playa de la Concha
P
la
y
a
d
e
O
n
d
a
r
r
e
t
a
Playa de
la Zurriola
Teatro Victoria
Eugenia
Puente
de Mara
Cristina
Plaza de la
Constitucin
Basilica de
Santa Mara
Museo
Naval
71

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