2.

20 Marine Hydrodynamics, Fall 2011

Lecture 14
Copyright c 2011 MIT - Department of Mechanical Engineering, All rights reserved.
2.20 - Marine Hydrodynamics
Lecture 14
Chapter 6 - Water Waves
6.1 Exact (Nonlinear) Governing Equations for
Surface Gravity Waves, Assuming Potential Flow
0 ) , , , ( = t z y x B
0 ) , , , ( or ) , , ( = = t z y x F t z x y
definition surface Free
x
y
y
z
Unknown variables
Velocity eld:

v (x, y, z, t) = (x, y, z, t)
Position of free surface: y = (x, z, t) or F (x, y, z, t) = 0
Pressure eld: p (x, y, z, t)
Governing equations
Continuity:
2
= 0 y < or F < 0
Bernoulli for P-Flow:

t
+
1
2
||
2
+
ppa

+ gy = 0; y < or F < 0
Far way, no disturbance: /t, 0 and p = p
a
..
atmospheric
gy
..
hydrostatic
1
Boundary Conditions
1. On an impervious boundary B (x, y, z, t) = 0, we have KBC:
v n = n =

n
=

U (x, t) n(x, t) = U
n
on B = 0
Alternatively: a particle P on B remains on B, i.e., B is a material surface. For
example if P is on B at t = t
0
, P stays on B for all t.
B(x
P
, t
0
) = 0, then B(x
P
(t), t) = 0 for all t,
so that, following P B is always 0.

DB
Dt
=
B
t
+ ( ) B = 0 on B = 0
For example, for a at bottom at y = h B = y + h = 0
DB
Dt
=
_

y
__

y
(y + h)
. .
=1
_
= 0

y
= 0 on B = y + h = 0
2. On the free surface, y = or F = y (x, z, t) = 0 we have KBC and DBC.
KBC: free surface is a material surface, no normal velocity relative to the free surface.
A particle on the free surface remains on the free surface for all times.
DF
Dt
= 0 =
D
Dt
(y ) =

y
..
vertical
velocity

t


x

x
..
slope
of f.s.

z
..
slope
of f.s.
on y =
..
still
unknown
DBC: p = p
a
on y = or F = 0. Apply Bernoulli equation at y = :

t
+
1
2
||
2
. .
non-linear term
+ g
..
still unknown
= 0 on y =
2
6.2 Linearized (Airy) Wave Theory
Assume small wave amplitude compared to wavelength, i.e., small free surface slope
A

<< 1
crest
wavelength
Water depth h
trough
Wave height H
SWL

Wave amplitude A
Wave period T
H
=
2
A
Vp
Consequently

2
/T
,

<< 1
We keep only linear terms in , .
For example: ()|
y=
= ()
y=0
. .
keep
+

y
()|
y=0
. .
discard
+. . . Taylor series
3
6.2.1 BVPIn this paragraph we state the Boundary Value Problem for linear (Airy) waves.

0
2
=
0
y
g
t
2
2
=

0
y
=

y = 0
y = -h
Finite depth h = const Innite depth
GE:
2
= 0, h < y < 0
2
= 0, y < 0
BKBC:

y
= 0, y = h 0, y
FSKBC:
FSDBK:

y
=

t
, y = 0

t
+ g = 0, y = 0
_
_
_

t
2
+ g

y
= 0
Introducing the notation {} for innite depth we can rewrite the BVP:
Constant nite depth h {Innite depth}

2
= 0, h < y < 0
_

2
= 0, y < 0
_
(1)

y
= 0, y = h { 0, y } (2)

t
2
+ g

y
= 0, y = 0
_

t
2
+ g

y
= 0, y = 0
_
(3)
Given calculate:
(x, t) =
1
g

y=0
_
(x, t) =
1
g

y=0
_
(4)
p p
a
=

t
. .
dynamic
gy
..
hydrostatic
_
p p
a
=

t
. .
dynamic
gy
..
hydrostatic
_
(5)
4
6.2.2 Solution Solution of 2D periodic plane progressive waves, applying separation of
variables.
We seek solutions to Equation (1) of the form e
it
with respect to time. Using the
KBC (2), after some algebra we nd . Upon substitution in Equation (4) we can
also obtain .
=
gA

sin (kx t)
cosh k (y + h)
cosh kh
_
=
gA

sin (kx t) e
ky
_
=
..
using (4)
Acos (kx t)
_
_
_
=
..
using(4)
Acos (kx t)
_
_
_
where A is the wave amplitude A = H/2.
Exercise Verify that the obtained values for and satisfy Equations (1), (2), and
(4).
6.2.3 Review on plane progressive waves
(a) At t = 0 (say), = Acos kx periodic in x with wavelength: = 2/k
Units of : [L]

K = wavenumber = 2/ [L
-1
]

k
x
(b) At x = 0 (say), = Acos t periodic in t with period: T = 2/
Units of T : [T]

= frequency = 2/T [T
-1
], e.g. rad/sec

T
t
(c) = Acos
_
k
_
x

k
t
_
Units of

k
:
_
L
T
_
Following a point with velocity

k
, i.e., x
p
=
_

k
_
t +const, the phase of does
not change, i.e.,

k
=

T
V
p
phase velocity.
5
6.2.4 Dispersion Relation
So far, any , k combination is allowed. However, recall that we still have not made
use of the FSBC Equation (3). Upon substitution of in Equation (3) we nd that
the following relation between h, k, and must hold:

t
2
+ g

y
= 0

=
gA

sin(kxt)f(y)

2
cosh kh + gk sinh kh = 0
2
= gk tanh kh
This is the Dispersion Relation

2
= gk tanhkh
_

2
= gk
_
(6)
Given h, the Dispersion Relation (6) provides a unique relation between and k,
i.e., = (k; h) or k = k(; h).
Proof

1
kh =f(c)
kh
tanh kh
kh
C
C

2
h
g
=
..
from (6)
(kh) tanh (kh)
C
kh
= tanhkh
obtain unique solution for k
Comments
- General As then k , or equivalently as T then .
- Phase speed V
p


T
=

k
=
_
g
k
tanhkh
_
V
p
=
_
g
k
_
Therefore as T or as , then V
p
, i.e., longer waves are faster in terms of
phase speed.
- Water depth eect For waves the same k (or ), at dierent water depths, as h
then V
p
, i.e., for xed k V
p
is fastest in deep water.
- Frequency dispersion Observe that V
p
= V
p
(k) or V
p
(). This means that waves of
dierent frequencies, have dierent phase speeds, i.e., frequency dispersion.
6
6.2.5 Solutions to the Dispersion Relation :
2
= gk tanh kh
Property of tanhkh:
tanhkh =
sinh kh
cosh kh
=
1 e
2kh
1 + e
2kh

=
_
kh for kh << 1. In practice
long waves
shallow water
..
h < /20
1 for kh > 3. In practice h >

2
. .
short waves
deep water
Shallow water waves Intermediate depth Deep water waves
or long waves or wavelength or short waves
kh << 1 Need to solve
2
= gk tanh kh kh >> 1
h < /20 given , h for k h > /2
(given k, h for - easy!)

2
= gk kh =

gh k (a) Use tables or graphs (e.g.JNN g.6.3)

2
= gk
=

gh T
2
= gk tanh kh = gk

=
g
2
T
2

k
=

=
V
p
V
p
= tanh kh
_
(in ft.) 5.12T
2
(in sec.)
_
(b) Use numerical approximation
(hand calculator, about 4 decimals )
i. Calculate C =
2
h/g
ii. If C > 2: deeper
kh C(1 + 2e
2C
12e
4C
+ . . .)
If C < 2: shallower
kh

C(1 + 0.169C + 0.031C

2
+ . . .)
No frequency dispersion Frequency dispersion Frequency dispersion
V
p
=
_
gh V
p
=
_
g
k
tanh kh V
p
=
_
g
2

7
6.3 Characteristics of a Linear Plane Progressive Wave
k =
2

=
2
T
H = 2A
Dene U A
A
Vp
h
x
y

MWL

(x,t) = y
Linear Solution:
= Acos (kx t) ; =
Ag

cosh k (y + h)
cosh kh
sin (kx t) , where
2
= gk tanhkh
6.3.1 Velocity eld
Velocity on free surface v(x, y = 0, t)
u(x, 0, t) U
o
= A
1
tanhkh
cos (kx t) v(x, 0, t) V
o
= A sin (kx t) =

t
Velocity eld v(x, y, t)
u =

x
=
Agk

cosh k (y + h)
cosh kh
cos (kx t)
= A
..
U
cosh k (y + h)
sinh kh
cos (kx t)
u
U
o
=
cosh k (y + h)
cosh kh
_

_
e
ky
deep water
1 shallow water
v =

y
=
Agk

sinh k (y + h)
cosh kh
sin (kx t)
= A
..
U
sinh k (y + h)
sinh kh
sin (kx t)
v
V
o
=
sinh k (y + h)
sinh kh
_

_
e
ky
deep water
1 +
y
h
shallow water
u is in phase with v is out of phase with
8
Velocity eld v(x, y)
Shallow water Intermediate water Deep water
9
6.3.2 Pressure eld
Total pressure p = p
d
gy.
Dynamic pressure p
d
=

t
.
Dynamic pressure on free surface p
d
(x, y = 0, t) p
do
Pressure eld
Shallow water Intermediate water Deep water
p
d
= g p
d
= gA
cosh k (y + h)
cosh kh
cos (kx t) p
d
= ge
ky

= g
cosh k (y + h)
cosh kh

p
d
p
do
same picture as
u
Uo
p
d
(h)
p
do
= 1 (no decay)
p
d
(h)
p
do
=
1
cosh kh
p
d
(h)
p
do
= e
ky
p = g( y)
. .
hydrostatic approximation
p = g
_
e
ky
y
_
1 << kh
y
d
p ) ( h p
y
o
d
p
gh V
p
=
y
x
) ( h p

Pressure eld in shallow water

1 >> kh
y
o
d
p ) ( h p
y
o
d
p

2
g
V
p
=
y
x
) ( h p

Pressure eld in deep water

10
6.3.3 Particle Orbits (Lagrangian concept)
Let x
p
(t), y
p
(t) denote the position of particle P at time t.
Let ( x; y) denote the mean position of particle P.
The position P can be rewritten as x
p
(t) = x + x

(t), y
p
(t) = y + y

(t), where
(x

(t), y

(t)) denotes the departure of P from the mean position.

In the same manner let v v( x, y, t) denote the velocity at the mean position and
v
p
v(x
p
, y
p
, t) denote the velocity at P.
) , ( y x
) , (
P P
y x
P
) ' , ' ( y x
v
p
= v( x + x

, y + y

, t) =
TSE
v
p
= v ( x, y, t) +
v
x
( x, y, t) x

+
v
y
( x, y, t) y

+ . . .
. .
ignore - linear theory

v
p

= v
To estimate the position of P, we need to evaluate (x

(t), y

(t)):
x

=
_
dt u ( x, y, t) =
_
dt A
cosh k ( y + h)
sinh kh
cos (k x t)
= A
cosh k ( y + h)
sinh kh
sin (k x t)
y

=
_
dt v ( x, y, t) =
_
dt A
sinh k ( y + h)
sinh kh
sin (k x t)
= A
sinh k ( y + h)
sinh kh
cos (k x t)
Check: On y = 0, y

= Acos (k x t) = , i.e., the vertical motion of a free surface

particle (in linear theory) coincides with the vertical free surface motion.
It can be shown that the particle motion satises
x
2
a
2
+
y
2
b
2
= 1
(x
p
x)
2
a
2
+
(y
p
y)
2
b
2
= 1
where a = A
cosh k ( y + h)
sinh kh
and b = A
sinh k ( y + h)
sinh kh
, i.e., the particle orbits form
closed ellipses with horizontal and vertical axes a and b.
11







Vp
Vp
A
P
R
R
Q Q
S
S
R
(a) deep water kh >> 1: a = b = Ae
circular orbits with radii Ae decreasing
exponentially with depth
ky
ky
decreases linearly
with depth
(b) shallow water kh << 1:
a = = const. ; b = A(1+ )
kh
A
h
y
(c) Intermediate depth
Vp
A
A
Vp
A
crest
=
ky
Ae
trough
gh

A/kh

12
6.3.4 Summary of Plane Progressive Wave Characteristics
f(y) Deep water/ short waves
kh > (say)
Shallow water/ long waves
kh << 1
cosh k(y+h)
cosh kh
= f
1
(y)
e.g.p
d
e
ky
1
cosh k(y+h)
sinhkh
= f
2
(y)
e.g.u, a
e
ky 1
kh
sinh k(y+h)
sinhkh
= f
3
(y)
e.g. v, b
e
ky
1 +
y
h
13
C (x) = cos (kx t) S (x) = sin (kx t)
(in phase with ) (out of phase with )

A
= C (x)
u
A
= C (x) f
2
(y)
v
A
= S (x) f
3
(y)
p
d
gA
= C (x) f
1
(y)
y

A
= C (x) f
3
(y)
x

A
= S (x) f
2
(y)
a
A
= f
2
(y)
b
A
= f
3
(y)

b
a
14