Vol2fall99 PDF (Report)
Vol2fall99 PDF (Report)
IN THIS ISSUE
Topics in Clothing & Textile Industry Childrens Sleepwear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Debate on Federal Industries Production of Apparel . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Clothing Camp 1999 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Fibers and Fabrics How Do You Remove Red Dirt Stains from Clothes? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Generic Term for Cotton? . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Fashion Forecast Fall/Winter 1999 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Tips and Trends Laundry Facts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Sorting Secrets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Laundry/asthma Relationship . . . . . . . . . . 5 Hispanic Teen Purchasers . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Using Clothing to Identify Behavior . . . . . . 6 Sharing Program Ideas Creating Interest in Textiles and Clothing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Educational Resources Web Sites and Upcoming Events . . . . . 8
Childrens Sleepwear
he Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) has reaffirmed its 1996 vote on the exemption of snug-fitting and infant size pajamas from childrens sleepwear flammability requirements. The snug fit ruling will take effect June 28, 2000. The law will require permanent labels and hangtags/garment stickers to advise parents of the importance of insuring a snug fit for safety purposes. The ruling results from several years of burn evidence that reveals no cases of a child being burned because he/she was wearing snug-fitting sleepwear.
Childrens and infants sleepwear tends to burn easily when it is loose fitting or particularly when worn so that loose parts of a garment can be exposed to flames easily. Childrens sleepwear, according to CPSC, includes any product of wearing apparel in sizes (0-14), such as night gowns, pajamas, robes, or similar related items that are intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or sleep related activities. The CPSC exempts diapers and underwear, infant garments nine months or younger (because these children are not as mobile and exposed less to flames), and tight fitting garments that meet specific maximum dimensions. Loungewear must meet childrens sleepwear standards as well. Because the sale of tight fitting, non-flame resistant sleepwear is allowed, it is critical that retail staff and consumers understand the need to buy garments that are properly sized for a snug fit in childrens sizes larger than 9 months of age. What is a snug fit? According to the CPSC the garment must have contact with the skin at all points. These garments will look smaller than traditional flame retardant sleepwear. Both sales staff and consumers need to be aware that flame retardant sleepwear will continue to be available. Consumers should remember that following the recommended laundry procedures on flame retardant clothing labels will help preserve the flame retardant finish. Questions do arise concerning infant bedding. Bedding is not included in the CPSC flame retardant guideline. Rather, bedding for infants should be firm, not soft and fluffy, and sheets and blankets should fit the mattress snuggly. Other types of apparel can pose a flammability threat to consumer safety. These include sheer rayon skirts and scarves, 100% silk scarves, 100% chenille sweaters, rayon/nylon chenille and
Texas Agricultural Extension Service Chester P. Fehlis, Deputy Director The Texas A&M University System College Station, Texas
long hair sweaters, polyester/cotton and 100% cotton fleece/sherpa garments and, 100% cotton terry robes. Since 1994, there have been 21 recalls of dangerously flammable clothing in these categories. For more information on flammability, refer to the Consumer Product Safety Commission web site: <http://www.cpsc.gov/>.
Source: American Apparel Manufacturers of America Newsletter, July/August 1999, p. 3. Consumer Product Safety Commission <http://www.cpsc.gov/businfo/sleepstay.html>, November 25, 1997.
At issue is the competition for diminishing Department of Defense (DOD) dollars and the diversification of FPI product lines. The latter issue impacts most greatly on DOD supplies of products such as trousers and kevlar helmets. Adding to the negative impact on small apparel producers is what is called mandatory source privilege which means that federal agencies are required to purchase apparel and other products produced by FPI regardless of price, quality, or speed of delivery. Legislation has been introduced that would limit FPIs by allowing it to sell in commercial markets and phase out the mandatory source privilege. In Texas, the Texas Correctional Industries produces, among many items, cloth products, mattresses, mattress covers, clothing, towels, state and safety flags, draperies and hardware. Why would the AAMA be concerned with the Federal Prison Industries system? The AAMA represents over 300 U.S. companies as their national trade association. These companies produce 85% of clothing sold at wholesale (meaning that retail business owners purchase from these companies, not the end user). The U.S. retail apparel market is estimated at $180 billion dollars. According to the AAMA, member companies are located in every state in the U.S. and manufacture all types of garments.
Source: American Apparel Manufacturers Association, < http://www.americanapparel.org/NewsR_July27.html > < http://www.tdcj.state.tx.us/tci/tci-home.htm >
ouble check to be sure that what appears to be red dirt is not a rust stain caused from excessive iron in the water. If that is the case then DO NOT USE BLEACH. There are three possible solutions to removing red dirt stains. Be sure to read them all before suggesting any one method.
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What is the definition of a trade name? It is the name given to a fiber that distinguishes it from other fibers of the same generic family that are made and sold by other producers. The following is taken from the text Textiles by Kadolph, Langford, Hollen, and Sandler, a reliable textile science text used throughout the U.S. in textile science college level courses. Cellulosic fibers refer to the fiber bundles of plants that give strength and pliability to their leaves, stems, and roots. Cellulose is the source from which the fibers discussed in the next paragraph come. Natural cellulosic textile fibers are classified according to the portion of the plant from which they are removed. These fibers are obtained from plants that can be economically and easily separated from the rest of the plant (i.e., cotton, jute, sisal). Natural cellulosic fibers fall into three groups: Seed fibers include cotton, kapok and coir Bast Fibers include flax, ramie, hemp, jute, kenaf Leaf fibers include pina, abaca, sisal and heneguen
To remove mud (red clay) from bleachable fabrics: Make a past of vinegar and table salt. Rub into stain and leave for at least 30 minutes. Launder using hot water and bleach. (BE CERTAIN THAT THE STAIN IS NOT RUST!) Repeat if stain remains. For non-bleachable fabrics: take to dry cleaners. This may not be a solution if were talking about a load of kids white socks.
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If the stain appears to be a rust deposit, then bleach should not be used at all in the wash. The use of a rust remover is recommended in this situation. If the water contains rust, the consumer may want to consider a water treatment to remove rust from the household water system. The problem could be soil redisposition. This occurs when soil removed from one or more articles in the wash redeposits itself on other articles in the same load. This causes unknown stains on possibly one or several pieces of clothing.
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Not all of these fibers are produced and available in the U.S. Cotton, as well as flax, silk, and wool, are referred to as natural fibers because they come from naturally occurring plants, animals or insects (silk from silk worm larvae). To say that cellulose is the generic term for cotton is incorrect because it would also have to be the generic term for all of the cellulosic fibers listed above. Thus, the fiber name and generic name are one and the same for cotton. Sometimes cotton is further described with terms like Pima, Supima, Sea Island, Egyptian, etc., but those describe the variety of cotton (long staple) and are not considered tradenames.
Prevention: Sort clothes carefully. Pretreat heavily soiled clothes and wash them separately from lightly soiled clothes. Wash knits and blends (cotton and polyester, for example) separately. Washers should not be overloaded. Allow room (usually to the top holes in the washer tub) to provide free circulation and washing action. Packing the clothes too tightly in the washer does not allow soil and residue to be rinsed away. Use extra detergent, particularly in hard water. If the water is hard, add water softener. Use hot water.
Think about textile labels: An item made of cotton would not list cellulose as the generic name because it would not indicate which of the cellulosic fibers it describes. The confusion seems to occur because manufactured fibers are assigned both a generic name and a trade name. For example, Acetate, Triacetate, and Rayon are manufactured fibers produced from cellulosic derivatives. Yet as the list of manufactured fibers has increased so has the list of trade names.
subject to seam abrasions, fabric abrasion or actually shredded and torn. One the suit scene, its a navy and gray world, as it has been for several seasons. To counteract this sameness of color, the silhouette is subtly changing: slimmer lines, narrower shoulder width, slightly longer coats, higher side vents, raised button-stance, narrower lapels and trimmer trousers with single pleats or not pleats. Casual ties are made from softer fabrics, including knits, and are more narrow. Interesting fabric blends of silk/wool, improve the hand of ties as well as provide subtle texture. Neckwear designed to benefit worthy causes, i.e. Save the Children, is a growing trend.
Fashion Forecast
Fall/Winter 1999
Womens Fashions
he two most exciting new developments in womens fashion involve fabrics and color. And while the color changes are obvious, the fabric innovations are far more subtle. Teflon-coated knits and wovens have an invisible shield to protect them from spills and stains. It may cut down on trips to the dry cleaners but it doesnt change the appearance, weight, touch or breathability of the fabric. Other fabrics are disguised to the point that the fiber content label is the only clue to their true origins. Fabrics are felted, padded, waxed, laminated, fused, coated and bonded to look nothing like their usual selves. Hand-felted silks look like blankets, washed wools look like flannels and polar fleece looks like shearling. At least one designer introduced living rubber garments that change colors with body heat.
Childrens Fashions
ack-to-school fashions take a uniform approach. An increasing number of public, as well as private schools, are instituting a uniform dress policy. Public school versions sometimes have subtle stylist upgrades, such as changes in collar styles, sweaters instead of blazers or color variations. But the goal is the same: everyone similarly dressed in nondescript clothes, such as khaki pants, polo shirts, simple jumpers and skirts. School uniforms may not be big fashion, but in the kids apparel market, they are becoming big business, observes The Soap and Detergent Association.
Shots of color play against the seasonless neutrals: black, gray, beige and camel. Silver, red, pale green, purple, fuschia, orange and chrome yellow are showing up in shawls, ponchos and serapes, in shaped turtleneck sweaters, in short coats and in edgings.
Other trends to watch in childrens wear include ultra-dark indigo denim jeans with cuffed bottoms, A-line skirts topped with easy twin sets, cargo pants with contrast topstitching, jersey tops, flannel shirts in softer plaids and slim corduroy jackets. Watch for glimmer and sparkle in small accents or as a full-force glamour attack.
Source: Cleanliness Facts, The Soap and Detergent Association, July/August 1999.
Mens Fashions
s mens fashion moves into the 21st century, it blends form with function and technology with earthy elements, says The Soap and Detergent Association. Bonded, doublefaced fabrics, laser-cut leathers, hardware on apparel, dress slacks in 100-plus worsteds, stretch blends with Lycra spandex and topcoat-style raincoats with Velcro closures are some of the seasons most exciting looks.
The hottest trend in jeans is dirty denim worn and dusty, right off of the construction site. Those that arent completely down and dirty are treated to a vintage-looking wash or are
Internet technology is expanding teens sources of fashion influence. Retailers are quickly tapping into the teen market providing easy to reach information on fashion trends. Fewer fashion rules characterize the teen market. Teens are making their own clothing choices at an earlier age (13-15). By 16-18, three-fourths are not using any parental guidance on clothing choices.
Source Cotton, Inc. October 1999, <http://www.cottoninc.com>
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Whos doing the laundry?
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Laundry Facts
onsumers wash over 660,000 wash loads every week, and women do 88% of these loads. Generally speaking, the life expectancy of washable apparel is 50 washings. The actual life of these garments can be anywhere from less than a year to several years depending on the frequency of washing. Underwear and socks that get washed regularly, may last less than a year. Garments worn only for special occasions or seasonally may last for several years. Colored items are the most frequent type of wash load (36% of all loads). Whites and mixed color loads are next (18% each). The consumer demand for all- or mostly cotton garments is rising. Thus, the driver for increased wash loads is colored, cotton apparel.
Source: Cleanliness Facts, The Soap and Detergent Association, July/August 1999.
ot surprisingly, households with children use more laundry detergent, and especially heavy duty detergent. Singles, on the other hand, buy less laundry detergent. Because they tend to be apartment dwellers, singles wash their clothes at laundromats and purchase single-use detergent packages. Fast growing businesses are laundry detergent dispensers and wash/dry/fold/deliver services.
Sorting Secrets
irst, sort by color. Wash all whites separately; pastels and medium colors together; brights and darks by themselves. Pay special attention to white and lightly colored synthetics, as they readily pick up dark dyes from other fabrics during washing.
Laundry/asthma relationship
he Soap and Detergent Association recommends a wash temperature of 140 F for 10 minutes to effectively kill dust mites. This contradicts the usual washing temperature of the average consumer (88 F in 1994). To counteract cooler washing habits, SDA now recommends washing bedding at least weekly in warm water. This will remove the allergens, according to SDA. Drying bedding in the dryer will kill dust mites if the dryer is set at a normal temperature and the bedding is allowed to dry for 10 minutes. For more information go to <http://www.sda.org>.
Sort out those heavily soiled items from lightly soiled once, since lightly soiled items can pick up the extra soil from the wash water. Whites will slowly get grayer or yellower; colors will become duller and duller.
Source: Cleanliness Facts, The Soap and Detergent Association, July/August 1999.
Source: Cleanliness Facts, July/Aug. 1999, Tips and Trends from the Soap and Detergent Association.
hair differently than the current young generation. They do not have the same time context. Space can be what directly surrounds the viewer and as a geographic location. An item of clothing on a rack in a store is out of context, it has no meaning. However, when worn in a particular setting with other apparel, it takes on a different meaning. A bandana can be a scarf, a rag, or a flag of identification. The type of apparel and how clothing is worn varies from one location in the country/world to another. Gang identity in one city may not be the same identifier in another location. Experience is another form of context. The experiences that the viewer brings to the observation of clothing is very important. Because each of our living experiences are different, we do not necessarily make the same interpretations. And as exposure to unique appearances becomes more frequent, our individual reactions become less strong. Clothing is a strong communicator of roles and expectations associated with behavior. The more we learn about clothing behavior, the less often incorrect stereotypical judgments will be made. The context in which clothing is observed should be considered along with the behaviors of the individuals before judgement is made.
Source: <http://gangid.ucdavis.edu/>
The situation in which clothing is seen is referred to as context. Context can be defined in terms of time, space, or experience. Why would context be important in determining a youths membership in gangs? First, clothing worn in one time period or another can take on different meanings. Currently, the term retro refers to clothing worn in earlier generations. Individuals without any time reference to earlier fashions might not associate the same meaning with clothing worn in an earlier time. Baby boomers may see long
Sewing is creative
According to a study commissioned by the Home Sewing Association (HSA), children who sewed simple projects demonstrated elevated creativity, problem solving and perseverance afterwards as compared to kids who watched TV or played a video game. Sewing uses a multitude of creative choices: colors, fabrics, designs, techniques, and proportions. When compared to
more passive activities like watching TV, sewing activities can develop skills for a lifetime. Sewing also helps kids: develop problem solving skills. experience a sense of accomplishment when a project is completed. understand concepts of color, textiles, construction, fit. learn to use and care for tools and equipment. develop and improve fine motor skills such as eye/hand coordination. develop individual and team work skills. develop expressiveness.
No skill recruit a volunteer to become a Master Clothing Volunteer (MCV) to teach sewing skills or contact a nearby chapter of the American Sewing Guild. No projects go to the Home Sewing Association Web site for sources of inexpensive and simple sewing projects, < http://www.sewing.org/ >. Or refer to the 4-H clothing leader guide for project ideas. These offer age specific project ideas and activities, lesson outlines, and specific information on a variety of apparel and textile topics ALL appropriate for creating, making, and caring for family clothing. Build a sewing business by developing or improving skills that can become a business or land a job. There is increasing demand for skilled labor in the apparel industry. The jobs that have gone overseas are primarily unskilled, lower paying jobs in the apparel industry. Growing in demand are custom clothiers, individuals who sew for the non-sewing public. As the number of women in the workforce increases, the demand for custom sewing increases. This is partially due to the price of career apparel, desire for uniqueness and good fit, as well as interest in home interior furnishings. Looking for a sewing professional? Talk to a local fabric store or sewing machine dealer. Check with friends and acquaintances to get their recommendations. Ask for contacts at the local dry cleaners. Contact professional sewing organizations, such as the Professional Association of Custom Clothiers. Check the yellow pages, newspapers and store bulletin boards. What to look for in a sewing professional? Trust this person will know everything about you. You have to be totally at ease with the individual. Arrange a faceto-face meeting. Be certain she understands your vision for the garment you want and is willing to accept criticism or questions. Get detailed information on the quality of workmanship, get references, examine actual samples of finished garments. Ask about their training, particularly specialized training. Discuss fees, hours of business, know your own budget, expect to pay a deposit of 50% of the final cost and sign a contract. Remember, a sewing professional is a business person.
Source: American Home Sewing Association, < http://www.sewing.org/ >.
The optimum time for learning and creativity is by ages 10 or 12. Sewing also reduces STRESS. The activity has been shown to promote relaxation and therefore reducing blood pressure, heart rate, and perspiration rate in comparison to other leisurely activities like card playing, painting, reading, or playing a video game. Usually sewing is thought of as an expression of creativity, yet even novice sewers experience relaxation. Every BODY can benefit from rest from the hectic lifestyles people are living today. Sewing helps the individual to focus on something productive and positive, rather than worries. Over 32% of respondents in an HSA survey indicated that sewing is relaxing. The top ten reasons people sew are: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Sense of accomplishment. Its relaxing. Saves money. Its a creative outlet. Impress people. Satisfying to wear. 7. 8. 9. Pure enjoyment. Can be shared. Means of selfexpression. 10. Way to make friends.
People often use these excuses for not sewing: No time what are they doing with their time? Is it a matter of getting organized? No money sewing saves money, demonstrate the savings, particularly with clothing repairs. No space start a sewing cooperative in a church, community building, etc. No fabric stores sewing is experiencing a resurgence, particularly sewing for the home. Fabric stores are located in major discount stores, over the WWW, or through catalogs. Check sewing magazines, i.e., Threads or Sew News for sources.
Textile Clothes Line, Fall 1999
Educational Packet Clothes Do The Talking: Work And What To Wear Topics to be addressed: understanding what clothing communicates to those around us in work, school and social environments. A set of videos has been ordered from Buffalo State University in New York that addresses interviewing and work dress for the welfare to work audience. These will be available from the Resource Library to support this educational packet and the BSSF Curriculum, Job Skills section.
Sources of fashion information <http://www.griffindesigns.com> This site contains some great sources for information on fashion industry designers, top apparel sources, and design information for 4-Hers, leaders, and master clothing volunteers interested in the 4-H design project. Go to <http://www.griffindesigns.com> then click on teaching workshops to find the two sites: Art, Design, and Visual Thinking and The On-line Visual Literacy Project.
The American Apparel Manufacturers Association is another source for clothing care information. < http://www.americanapparel.org/ AAMA_Consum_Info.html >
TEXAS AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE THE TEXAS A&M UNIVERSITY SYSTEM COLLEGE STATION, TEXAS 77843