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and now theyre in orbit, rampaging through the Space Station, killing the monsters and taking their stuff! Star Munchkin is based on the original Munchkin and can be combined with it or with any other Munchkin set (see the last page). This game includes 168 cards, one six-sided die, and these rules.

The Munchkins have left the dungeon . . .

Your Hand: Cards in your hand are not in play. They dont help you, but they cant be taken away except by cards that specically affect your hand. At the end of your turn, you may have no more than ve cards in your hand. When Cards Can Be Played: Each type of card can be played at a specied time (see p. 5). Cards in play may not be returned to your hand they must be discarded or traded if you want to get rid of them.

Setup
Three to six can play. You will need 10 tokens (coins, poker chips, whatever or any gadget that counts to 10) for each player. Divide the cards into the Door deck and the Treasure deck. Shufe both decks. Deal four cards from each deck to each player.

This rulesheet gives the general rules. Cards may add special rules, so in most cases when the rulesheet disagrees with a card, follow the card. However, ignore any card effect that might seem to contradict one of the rules listed below unless the card explicitly says it supersedes that rule! 1. Nothing can reduce a player below Level 1, although card effects might reduce a players or a monsters combat strength (p. 2) below 1. 2. You go up a level after combat only if you kill a monster. 3. You cannot collect rewards for defeating a monster (e.g., Treasure, levels) in the middle of a combat. You must nish the ght before gaining any rewards. 4. You must kill a monster to reach Level 10. Any other disputes should be settled by loud arguments, with the owner of the game having the last word. You could also read the Munchkin FAQ and errata pages at www.worldofmunchkin.com, or start a discussion at forums.sjgames.com . . . unless its more fun to argue.

Contradictions Between Cards and Rules

Keep separate face-up discard piles for the two decks. You may not look through the discards unless you play a card that allows you to! When a deck runs out, reshufe its discards. If a deck runs out and there are no discards, nobody can draw any of that kind of card! In Play: These are the cards on the table in front of you, showing your Race and Class (if any) and the Items you are carrying. Continuing Traps and some other cards also stay on the table after you play them.

Card Management

Everyone starts as a Level 1 human with no class. (Heh, heh.) Look at your initial eight cards. If you have any Race or Class cards, you may (if you like) play one of each type by placing it in front of you. If you have any usable Items (p. 5), you may play them by placing them in front of you. If you have any doubt about whether you should play a card, you could read below, or you could just charge ahead and do it.

Character Creation

(4) Charity: If you have more than ve cards in your hand, you must play enough of them to get down to ve, or give the excess to the player with the lowest Level. If players are tied for lowest, divide the cards as evenly as possible, but its up to you who gets the bigger set(s) of leftovers. If YOU are the lowest or tied for lowest, just discard the excess. It is now the next players turn.

Decide who goes rst in any agreeable manner. Heh, heh. Play proceeds in turns, each with several phases (see below). When the rst player nishes his turn, the player to his left takes a turn, and so on. The rst player to reach 10th level wins . . . but you must reach 10th level by killing a monster, unless a card specically allows you to win another way.

Starting and Finishing the Game

At the start of your turn, you may play cards, switch items from in use to carried or vice versa, trade items with other players, and sell items for levels. When your cards are arranged the way you want, go to phase 1. (1) Kick Open The Door: Draw one card from the Door deck and turn it face up. If its a monster, you must ght it. See Combat. Resolve the combat completely before you go on. If you kill it, go up a level (or two, for some especially nasty monsters!) and take the appropriate number of Treasures.. If the card is a trap see Traps, p. 6 it applies to you immediately (if it can) and is discarded. If you draw any other card, you may either put it in your hand or play it immediately. (2) Look For Trouble: If you did NOT draw a monster when you rst opened the door, you now have the option of playing a monster (if you have one) from your hand and ghting it, just as if you had found it when you kicked open the door. Dont play a monster you cant handle, unless youre sure you can count on getting help! (3) Loot The Room: If you did not nd a monster by kicking open the door and you did not Look For Trouble, you loot the room . . . draw a second card from the Door deck, face down, and place it in your hand. If you met a monster but ran away, you dont get to loot the room.

Turn Phases

To ght a monster, compare its combat strength to yours. Combat strength is the total of Level plus all modiers positive or negative given by items and other cards. If the monsters combat strength is equal to yours, or greater, you lose the combat and must Run Away see below. If your combat strength totals more than the monsters, you kill it and go up a level (two for some big monsters). Youll also get the number of Treasures shown on its card. Sometimes a card, or a Class or Race power, will let you get rid of the monster without killing it. This is still winning, but you dont get a level. Sometimes, depending on the card, you might not get the treasure, either. Some monster cards have special powers that affect combat a bonus against one Race or Class, for instance. Be sure to check these. One-shot items, such as grenades, may be played directly from your hand during combat. You can also use one-shot items that you already had in play. One-shot items say Usable once only. Discard these cards after the combat, whether you win or lose. Some Door cards may also be played into a combat, such as monster enhancers (see p. 5). While you are in combat, you cannot sell, steal, equip, unequip, or trade items, or play items (except for one-shots) from your hand. Once you expose a monster card, you must resolve the ght with your equipment as it stands, plus any one-shot items you choose to play. Discard the monster card, including any enhancers and one-shot items played, and draw treasure (see below). But note: someone may play a hostile card on you, or use a special power, just as you think you have won. When you kill a monster, you must wait a reasonable time, dened as about 2.6 seconds, for anyone else to speak up. After that, you have really killed the monster, and you really get the level(s) and treasure, though they can still whine and argue.

Combat

Fighting Multiple Monsters

Some cards (notably Wandering Monster) allow your rivals to send other monsters to join the ght. You must defeat their combined combat strengths. Any special abilities, such as ghting with your Level only, apply to the entire ght. If you have the right cards, you can eliminate one monster from the combat and ght the other(s) normally, but you cannot choose to ght one and run from the other(s). If you eliminate one with a card or your Race or Class power, but then run from the other(s), you dont get any Treasure!

Running Away
If nobody will help you . . . or if somebody tries to help, and your fellow party members interfere so the two of you still cannot defeat it . . . you must run away. If you run away, you dont get any levels or treasure. You dont even get to Loot the Room. And you dont always escape unharmed . . . Roll the die. You only escape on a 5 or better. Some items or abilities make it easier or harder to run away. And some monsters are fast or slow, and give you a penalty or bonus to your roll. If you escape, discard the monster. You get no treasure. There are usually no bad effects . . . but read the card. Some monsters hurt you even if you get away from them! If the monster catches you, it does Bad Stuff to you, as described on its card. This may vary from losing an item, to losing one or more levels, to Death. If two players are cooperating and still cant defeat the monster(s), they must both ee. They roll separately. The monster(s) CAN catch them both. If you are eeing from multiple monsters, you roll separately to escape each one, in any order you choose, and suffer Bad Stuff from each one that catches you as soon as it catches you. Discard the monster(s).

Asking For Help

If you cannot win a combat on your own, you may ask any other player to help you. If he refuses, you may ask another player, and so on, until they all turn you down or someone helps. Only one player can help you, adding his combat strength to yours. Anyone can play cards to affect your combat, however! You can bribe someone to help. In fact, youll probably have to. You may offer your helper any Item(s) you are currently carrying, or any number of the Treasure cards the monster has. If you offer him part of the monsters treasure, you must agree whether he picks rst, or you pick rst, or whatever. The special abilities or vulnerabilities of the monster also apply to your helper, and vice versa. For instance, if you are not a Feline yourself, and a Feline helps you against a Starsh, the monster is -5 against you. But if you are facing the Fanged Fuzzball and a Feline helps you, the monsters combat strength is increased by 2. If someone successfully helps you, the monster is slain. Discard it, draw treasure (see below), and follow any special instructions on the monster card. You go up a level for each slain monster. Your helper does not go up. You draw the Treasure cards, even if it was your helpers special ability that defeated the monster.

Death
If you die, you lose all your stuff. You keep your Class(es), Race(s), and Level (and any Traps that were affecting you when you died) your new character will look just like your old one. Looting The Body: Lay out your hand beside the cards you had in play. Starting with the one with the highest Level, each other player chooses one card . . . in case of ties in level, roll a die. If your corpse runs out of cards, tough. After everyone gets one card, the rest are discarded. Dead characters cannot receive cards for any reason, not even Charity, and cannot level up. When the next player begins his turn, your new character appears and can help others in combat . . . but you have no cards. On your next turn, start by drawing four cards from each deck, face-down, and playing any Race, Class, or Item cards you want to, just as when you started the game. Then take your turn normally.

You can interfere with others combats in several ways: Use a one-shot item. You could help another player by throwing a grenade at his foe. Of course, you can accidentally hit your friend with the grenade, and it will count against him. Play a card to modify a monster. These cards (usually) make a monster stronger . . . and give it more treasure. You can play these either during your own combats or during someone elses combat. Play a Wandering Monster along with a monster from your hand to join any combat. Trap them, if you have a Trap card.

Interfering With Combat

Treasure
When you defeat a monster, either by killing it or using a card to eliminate it, you get its Treasure. Each monster has a Treasure number on the bottom of its card. Draw that many treasures. Draw face-down if you killed the monster alone. Draw face-up, so the whole party can see what you got, if someone helped you. Treasure cards can be played as soon as you get them. Item cards can be placed in front of you. Go Up a Level cards can be used instantly. You may play a Go Up a Level card on any player at any time.

Wesley is a 4th-Level Feline with the Diamondoid Teeth (which gives him a +2 to his combat strength). He kicks open the door and nds Bottle Bottle, a Level 4 monster. Wesleys at a 6 and Bottle Bottle is at a 4, so Wesley is winning. Wesley: Die, Bottle Bottle, die! Boxey: I agree that he should die, but not that easily. Boxey plays . . . From Another Dimension, adding 10 to Bottle Bottles combat strength. Now Wesley is losing, 14 to 6. Wesley: I hate you so much. Boxey: Want some help? (Boxey is playing a Level 5 Bounty Hunter with the Bobaser, so his combat strength is 9. Combined with Wesleys 6, they would have 15, enough to defeat Bottle Bottles 14.) Wesley: After you enhanced the monster? No . . . but Ill take it. You get a card out of this already, so Ill offer you the second pick of the Treasures. Boxey: I had to use a card, too! But OK, somethings better than nothing. Wesley: Were killing Bottle Bottle unless someone else plans to mess with me. Anyone? No one says anything, so Wesley goes up a level and claims Bottle Bottles treasures two from the Bottle Bottle card, and two extra because it was From Another Dimension. Wesley picks rst, Boxey picks second, and then Wesley takes the other two. Additionally, Wesley and Boxey both get a face-down Door Wesley, because thats part of the reward for beating Bottle Bottle, and Boxey, because hes a Bounty Hunter. And the game goes on . . .

Example of Combat, With Numbers and Everything

Race: Characters may be Humans, Mutants, Felines, or Cyborgs. If you have no Race card in front of you, you are human. Humans have no special abilities. Each other Race has different special abilities (see the cards). You gain the abilities of a Race the moment you play its card in front of you, and lose them as soon as you discard that card. Some Race abilities are powered by discards. You may discard any of your cards, in play or in your hand, to power a special ability.

If you have an iPhone, iPod Touch, or Android, youll like our Level Counter application in the iTunes Store. Just search for Level Counter or click the link at levelcounter.sjgames.com. Even better, it gives you personal in-game advantages to make your friends jealous. Which is what being a munchkin is all about! You can discard a race card at any time, even in combat: I dont wanna be a Mutant anymore. When you discard a race card, you become human again. You may not belong to more than one race at once unless you play the Half-Breed card. You may not have two copies of the same Race card in play. Class: Characters may be Gadgeteers, Psychics, Traders, or Bounty Hunters. If you have no Class card in front of you, you have no class. Each Class has different abilities, shown on the cards. You gain the abilities of a Class the moment you play its card in front of you, and lose them as soon as you discard that card. Some Class abilities are powered by discards. You may discard any card, in play or in your hand, to power a special ability. See the Class cards for when abilities can be used. You can discard a Class card at any time, even in combat: I dont wanna be a Gadgeteer anymore. When you discard a Class card, you become classless until you play another Class card. You may not belong to more than one class at once unless you play the Super Munchkin card. You may not have two copies of the same Class card in play. Each Item card has a name, a power, a size, and a value in Gold Pieces. An Item card in your hand does not count until you play it; at that point, it is carried. You may carry any number of items, but you can use only one Complex one. (Any item not designated Complex is considered regular.) Gadgeteers are an exception, and may use any number of Complex items. Anyone can carry any item, but some items have use restrictions: for instance, the Neuronic Whip can only be wielded by a Mutant. Its bonus only counts for someone who is, at the moment, a Mutant.

Level Counters: Its Not Cheating, Its Using the Rules!

Each character is basically a collection of weapons, armor, and magic items, with three stats: Level, Race, and Class. For instance, you might describe your character as a 9th-level Feline Bounty Hunter with Battle Armor, Diamondoid Teeth, and a Laser-Maser-Dazer. Your characters sex starts off the same as your own. Level: This is a measure of how generally buff and studly you are. When the rules or cards refer to your Level, capitalized, they mean this number. You gain a level when you kill a monster, or when a card says that you do. You can also sell items to buy levels (see Items). You lose a level when a card says that you do. Your Level can never go below 1. However, your combat strength can be negative, if you get hit with a trap or have some other kind of penalty.

Character Stats

Items

Likewise, you may also use only one headgear, one suit of armor, one pair of footgear, and two 1 Hand items (or one 2 Hands item) . . . unless you have a card that lets you ignore these limits. If you are carrying two Headgear cards, for instance, only one of them can help you. You should indicate items that cant help you, or extras not being worn, by turning the cards sideways. You may NOT change your used and carried items during a combat or while running away. You cannot discard Item cards just because. You may sell items for a level, or give an item to another player who wants it. You may discard to power certain Class and Race abilities. And a Trap may force you to get rid of something! Trading: You may trade Items (but not other cards) with other players. You may only trade items from the table not from your hand. You may trade at any time except when youre in combat in fact, the best time to trade is when its not your turn. Any item you receive in a trade must go into play; you cant sell it until its your turn. You may also give items away without a trade, to bribe other players Ill give you my Bobaser if you wont help Bob ght Great Cthulhu! You may show your hand to others. Like we could stop you. Selling Items for Levels: During your turn, you may dis-card items worth at least 1,000 Gold Pieces and immediately go up one level. If you discard (for instance) 1,100 Gold Pieces worth, you dont get change. But if you can manage 2,000 worth, you can go up two levels at once, and so on. You may sell items from your hand as well as those you are carrying. You may not sell items to go to Level 10. Laser weapons include any Item with a name ending, more or less, in -aser. Each laser weapon is a 2-Handed weapon, but any and all laser barrels can be snapped together to create a single 2-Handed weapon with the power of both. For instance, a Laser (+2) and a Dazer (+3) combine to create a Laser-Dazer (+5). Add another Laser and its a Laser-Laser-Dazer (+7). And its still just a single 2-Handed weapon. However, the combined weapon can be broken down a piece at a time if necessary, and counts as one Item for each card making it up. You cannot Annihilate or Antimatter the whole weapon . . . just one card! Similarly, only those laser weapons that say they are Complex count as Complex items, where that matters. (But non-Gadgeteers can snap two or more Complex lasers together and use them both!) All laser weapons are considered re/ame weapons.

Monsters
If drawn face-up, during the Kick Open a Door phase, they immediately attack the person who drew them. If acquired any other way, they go into your hand and may be played during Looking For Trouble, or played on another player with the Wandering Monster card. Each Monster card is a single monster, even if the name on the card is plural.

Undead Monsters
Several monsters in this set are tagged Undead. You may play any Undead monster from your hand into combat to help any other Undead, without using a Wandering Monster card. If you have a card that can be used to make a monster Undead, you may play it with a non-Undead monster to use this rule.

Monster Enhancers
Certain cards, called monster enhancers, raise or lower the combat strength of individual monsters. (Yes, you can have a negative enhancement.) Monster enhancers may be played by any player during any combat. All enhancers on a single monster add together. If there are multiple monsters in a combat, the person who plays each enhancer must choose which monster it applies to. Exception: Anything that enhances a monster also enhances its Clone . . . if Radioactive, . . . From Another Dimension, and . . . And Its Clone are played on a single monster, in any order, you are facing a Radioactive monster From Another Dimension and its Radioactive Clone From Another Dimension. Good luck . . .

Laser Weapons

Items Playing Them

Any Item card may be played to the table as soon as you get it, or at any time during your own turn.

Items Using Them

Any one-shot item can be played during any combat, whether you have it in your hand or on the table. (Some one-shot items, such as the Wishing Ring, may also be used outside of combat.) Other items cannot be used unless they are active. Items turned sideways cannot help you, even if you could otherwise legally use them.

Other Treasures
Other Treasure cards are specials (like Go Up a Level). You may play these at any time, unless the card itself says otherwise. Follow the cards instructions, then discard it, unless it has a persistent bonus, like an Item.

When to Play Cards

Traps
If drawn face-up, during the Kick Open a Door phase, Trap cards apply to the person who drew them.
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A quick reference guide . . .

If drawn face-down or acquired some other way, Trap cards may be played on ANY player at ANY time. Any time, do you hear me? Reducing someones abilities just as he thinks he has killed a monster is a lot of fun. Usually, a Trap affects its victim immediately (if it can) and is discarded. However, some Traps give a penalty later in the game or have a continuing effect. Keep these cards until you get rid of the Trap or the penalty takes effect. If someone plays a your next combat Trap on you while you are in combat, it counts in that combat! (Trap cards you keep as a reminder may not be discarded to power Class or Race abilities. Nice try!) If a Trap can apply to more than one item, the victim decides which item is lost or trapped. If a Trap applies to something you dont have, ignore it. For instance, if you draw Lose Your Armor and you have no armor, nothing happens; discard the card. There will be times when it will help you to play a Trap or Monster on yourself, or to help another player in a way that costs him treasure. This is very munchkinly. Do it.

then instead of rolling to run away, you may discard one Sidekick and anything it is carrying. You automatically escape from all monsters in the ght, even if a monster card says escape is impossible. If someone was helping you in the ght, YOU decide whether that person automatically escapes as well, or must roll to escape. In a combined game, Traps and Curses are equivalent; anything that refers to one includes the other. However, Complex and Big items are not the same.

Combining Star Munchkin With Other Munchkin Games

Classes and Races

These cards may be played to the table as soon as they are acquired, or at any time during your own turn. The same is true for Super Munchkin and Half-Breed, but you must already have a Class to play Super Munchkin or a Race to play Half-Breed.

Sidekicks
If you draw a Sidekick, either face up or face down, you may use it immediately or keep it in your hand for later. You may play it at any time, even in combat, as long as you have only one Sidekick in play at a time (two for Traders). You may discard Sidekicks at any time. You may not trade Sidekicks. Each Sidekick has certain powers that can help you. They cannot do anything not stated on the card; for instance, they cant carry things unless the card says they can. A Sidekick is NOT an Item! Sidekicks dont affect a Psychics bonus for ghting alone. A Sidekick can sacrice himself for you (indeed, this is the only thing Red Shirts are good for). If you lose a ght,

Studies have shown that 8.4 out of 9.7 Munchkin players cant get enough of the game. Here are some ideas to take your Munchkin games to new heights or lows: Combining different Munchkin sets. You can mix two (or more) base sets and expansions together for a genrecrossing mega-Munchkin adventure! Space plus Old West? Kung fu vampires? No problem! Expansions. Most of the Munchkin core sets have expansions that add still more monsters to kill, new Treasure to loot, and sometimes entirely new kinds of cards. Ask at your friendly local game store, or visit www.warehouse23.com to buy directly from us. Turn it up to EPIC! Playing to Level 10 just isnt enough for some people. To satisfy their insane cravings, weve created Epic Munchkin, a new set of rules that gives all your Munchkin sets that high-octane boost you need to make it up to Level 20! Look for it on our online PDF store, e23.sjgames.com its completely, absolutely FREE! For a faster game, you can add a phase 0 called Listen At The Door. At the start of your turn, draw a face-down Door card, which you may play or not. Then arrange cards and Kick Open The Door normally. If you Loot The Room, draw a face-down Treasure, not a Door. You can also allow shared victories if a player reaches Level 10 in a ght where he had a helper, the helper also wins the game, no matter what Level he is.

Super-Sized Munchkin

Faster Play Rules

Game Design by Steve Jackson Illustrated by John Kovalic

Development Help/Prepress Checking: Monica Stephens Graphic Design/Art Direction: Phil Reed Chief Operating Ofcer/ Print Buyer: Philip Reed Munchkin Czar: Andrew Hackard Munchkin Hireling: Leonard Balsera Production Artists: Fox Barrett, Alex Fernandez, and Ben Williams Marketing Director: Monica Valentinelli Director of Sales: Ross Jepson

Playtesters: Fox Barrett, Steve Brinich, Carl Campbell, Monique Chapman, Andy Dawson, Jessie Foster, Drew Happli, Brian Nisbet, William Toporek, Alex Yeager, and the international conspiracy of Munchkins In Black. Thanks to Tom Wham for the Awful Green Thing!
Star Munchkin, Munchkin, Warehouse 23, e23, the all-seeing pyramid, and the names of all products published by Steve Jackson Games Incorporated are trademarks or registered trademarks of Steve Jackson Games Incorporated, or used under license. Dork Tower characters copyright John Kovalic. Star Munchkin copyright 2002-2005, 2007, 2008, 2010, 2012 by Steve Jackson Games Incorporated. All rights reserved. Rules version 1.7 (February 2012).

www.worldofmunchkin.com
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