Edible Landscaping With A Permaculture Twist - The Herb Spiral: The Ultimate Raised Bed
Edible Landscaping With A Permaculture Twist - The Herb Spiral: The Ultimate Raised Bed
Edible Landscaping With A Permaculture Twist - The Herb Spiral: The Ultimate Raised Bed
Benets
There are many benets to planting an herb spiral raised bed garden:
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Spiral Construction
There are two basic approaches to building a spiral: dry stack and free form.
Dry Stack
Materials for a Dry Stack Spiral, Six-Foot Diameter
90
granite blocks
Cardboard 1
Dry stacking refers to a free-standing structure of stone carefully placed to hold form without concrete. Dry stacking the rock has the advantage of the spiral staying put (not shifting), allowing you to create an herb spiral in a tight or formal setting. Cut granite blocks work well for dry stacking when the spiral has a diameter of ve feet or more. An alternative to granite block is any kind of stackable stone, such as slate agstone, cut wall stone, or even brick, which can help shape a smaller diameter spiral.
This small dry stack spiral is approximately three-and-a-half feet wide by two feet high.
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Lay down cardboard in an area one foot larger than the diameter of the intended nished spiral. Cardboard kills grass under the spiral, helps prevent weeds from growing around the spirals edge, and creates a ring for mulch when youre done creating your spiral. You can start by drawing a spiral on the cardboard, or you can simply begin laying out the rst layer of block in the shape youre after. Be sure the spacing allows for the nal planting bed width, which needs to be at least 8 inches wide. Ideally, the lowest point faces north and the spiral builds clockwise. While this layout and direction is helpful, it is not essential. I often choose my starting point based on the site and aesthetics. The design in the picture series here is approximately six feet in diameter by three feet high. Every two-and-a-half blocks, begin the next layer known as a course in masonry terms for at least four courses, to gain your eventual height. This stepping up is easily understood once you start laying the stone.
Fill bottom with gravel or wood chips, then top off with soil/compost mix.
Since we are making a round spiral out of square blocks, the innermost part of the spiral gets tight and a little tricky. I use broken bits of block, pieces of brick, and whatever else I can get my hands on to recycle and reuse, making the innermost turns. Visually, it doesnt matter because it will not be seen in the end. For the nal twist at the top, I like to end it o with a few hand-picked quartz stones or whatever small colorful stone I can nd. The nished dry stack may still be a little wobbly. To add more support, I ll the bottom of the herb spirals center with gravel or wood chips; this also helps with drainage and prevents water from collecting and heaving when frozen. Then, I either make or order a soil mix that is about 40% compost to 60% soil and ll it the rest of the way to the top of the spiral. If any blocks are loose or leaning outward, I tuck them in toward the soil. And, voila! Your herb spiral is ready to plant. Do not worry if you dont get a perfect spiral or rounded curves; most imperfections are lost in the overall charm and uniqueness of your spiral. Surprisingly, soil does not come ushing out the cracks, and the little that does makes a good rockery planting. Note: You can cap the bottom with a cross-set stone or just let it ow out into a surrounding garden. Another option for the bottom end is to put in a little frog pond or depression; a neat way to do this is to bury a metal bucket so the lip is ush with the ground and ll it with water.
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