NOTICE

Copyright 2010 http://www.howtogrowweed420.com/

ALL RIGHTS RSR!".
#o p$rt o% thi& 'oo( m$y 'e reprod)ced or tr$*&mitted i* $*y %orm or
'y $*y me$*&+ e,ectro*ic or mech$*ic$,+ i*c,)di*g+ ')t *ot ,imited to+
photocopyi*g+ recordi*g+ or 'y $*y i*%orm$tio* &tor$ge $*d retrie-$,
&y&tem+ witho)t permi&&io* i* writi*g %rom the p)',i&her or $)thor+
e.cept i* the c$&e o% $ re-iewer+ who m$y /)ote 'rie% p$&&$ge&
em'odied i* critic$, $rtic,e& or i* $ re-iew.
The m$teri$, i* thi& 'oo( i& $d),t& o*,y. 0$re*t&+ g)$rdi$*& $*d other
$d),t& &ho),d e.erci&e $ppropri$te co*tro, to (eep thi& 'oo( o)t o% the
h$*d& o% mi*or&.
Thi& 'oo( i& $ re%ere*ce wor( m$de $-$i,$',e %or ed)c$tio*$,+
i*%orm$tio*$,+ $rchi-$,+ e*tert$i*me*t $*d $*y other p)rpo&e&
protected 'y the 1ir&t Ame*dme*t o% the Co*&tit)tio* o% the 2*ited
St$te& o% Americ$.
Th$*( yo) to $,, the peop,e who h$-e po&ted /)$,ity+ det$i,ed+ $*d
he,p%), i*%orm$tio* o* the i*ter*et. 3o)r (*ow,edge h$& ,ed m$*y
hope%), grower& to 'o)*ti%), crop& o% &ome o% the 'e&t c$**$'i&.
4itho)t yo)r "I3 thre$d& $*d grow 5o)r*$,& m$*y grower& tod$y
wo),d 'e ,o&t i* $ &e$ o% co*%)&io*. 3o)r e%%ort& h$-e he,ped m$*y
peop,e re$,i6e the 5oy& o% h$-i*g their ow* m$ri5)$*$ home g$rde* to
grow their ow* medici*e i* the pri-$cy o% their -ery ow* home&. I
hope th$t thi& 'oo( wi,, &er-e to $id i* the pre&er-$tio* o% c$**$'i&
(*ow,edge $*d &o)rce %or m$*y *ew grower& to re,y o*.
DISCLAIMER
Thi& 'oo( $*d $,, re%ere*ce& $re %or ed)c$tio*$,+ e*tert$i*me*t+ $*d
$rchi-$, p)rpo&e& o*,y. The i*%orm$tio* $*d directio*& i* the&e
writi*g&+ i*di-id)$,,y $*d co,,ecti-e,y+ $re i* *o w$y to 'e co*&idered
$& $ &)'&tit)te %or co*&),t$tio*& with $ d),y ,ice*&ed phy&ici$*
reg$rdi*g di$g*o&i& $*d / or tre$tme*t o% di&e$&e $*d $re *ot
i*te*ded to di$g*o&e or tre$t. 0o&&e&&i*g $*d growi*g m$ri5)$*$ i&
i,,eg$, )*der %eder$, ,$w&. The $)thor $*d p)',i&her do *ot $d-oc$te
're$(i*g the ,$w. 0er&o*& co*&ideri*g imp,$*ti*g proced)re& herei*
&ho),d co*&),t $* $ttor*ey 'e%ore doi*g &o. Some &)'&t$*ce&
di&c)&&ed herei* m$y 'e to.ic. Re$der& &ho),d co*&),t $ppropri$te
e.pert $d-ice i% co*&ideri*g )ti,i6i*g $*y i*%orm$tio* i* thi& 'oo(. The
$)thor m$(e& *o e.pre&&ed or imp,ied w$rr$*tie& wh$t&oe-er+
i*c,)di*g $cc)r$cy or re,i$'i,ity with re&pect to i*%orm$tio* co*t$i*ed
i* thi& 'oo(. The author doesnt encourage acting in any way that
violates local, federal or any applicable laws or regulations.
Thi& 'oo( o%%er& *o medic$,+ ,eg$,+ or re,$ted pro%e&&io*$, $d-ice. The
re$der i& e*co)r$ged to )&e good 5)dgme*t whe* $pp,yi*g the
i*%orm$tio* herei* co*t$i*ed $*d to &ee( $d-ice %rom $ /)$,i%ied
pro%e&&io*$, i%+ $*d $&+ *eeded. The i*%orm$tio* $*d g)ide,i*e& i* thi&
'oo( $re i*te*ded to e*co)r$ge per&o*$, re&po*&i'i,ity $*d to
&)pport proper medic$, c$re. I do *ot grow or co*do*e the growi*g o%
$*ythi*g illegal. A*y i*%orm$tio* herei* &ho),d *ot co*&tit)te $d-ice
or 'e co*&idered $d-ice to $&&i&t i* $cti-itie& th$t $re deemed i,,eg$,.
Thi& te.t i& %or pri-$te co*&)mptio* o*,y+ $*d 'y re$di*g $*y %)rther
yo) $gree th$t yo) (*ow yo)r ,oc$, ,$w& $*d $ccept 1007 per&o*$,
,i$'i,ity o% $*y i,,eg$, $ctio*& yo) commit. Thi& 'oo( i& m$de $-$i,$',e
%or e*tert$i*me*t+ $rchi-$,+ $*d i*%orm$tio*$, p)rpo&e& o*,y+ i* $ccord
with the 1ir&t Ame*dme*t o% the 2*ited St$te& o% Americ$
Co*&tit)tio*. The $)thor $d-oc$te& $'&o,)te,y *o i,,eg$, $cti-itie& o%
$*y (i*d+ $*d m$(e& *o e.pre&& or imp,ied w$rr$*tie& o%
merch$*t$'i,ity+ %it*e&& %or $*y p)rpo&e+ or otherwi&e+ with re&pect to
thi& e8oo( $*d the i*%orm$tio* it co*t$i*&. 1or medic$,+ ,eg$,+ or
&pirit)$, $d-ice+ the $)thor )rge& th$t yo) co*&),t the $ppropri$te
,ice*&ed pr$ctitio*er.
I* m$*y $re$& it i& i,,eg$, to ow* &eed&+ grow c$**$'i& or )&e
c$**$'i&. It i& recomme*ded th$t yo) co*&),t yo)r ,oc$, $)thoritie& to
&ee wh$t yo)r co)*trie& ,eg$, &t$t)& i& reg$rdi*g the )&e $*d / or
c),ti-$ti*g o% c$**$'i&. The $)thor doe& *ot w$*t yo) to 're$( the
,$w+ *or w$& thi& 'oo( i*te*ded %or th$t p)rpo&e. Thi& i& $*
ed)c$tio*$, 'oo( &howi*g yo) how c$**$'i& i& grow*. "9 #9T
8RA: TH LA4. ;$*y p,$ce& h$-e permitted medic$, m$ri5)$*$
)&er& to grow $*d )&e their ow* medici*e i* the pri-$cy o% their -ery
ow* home&. Re$der& who wi&h to )&e m$ri5)$*$ medici*$,,y &ho),d
$,w$y& co*&),t $ phy&ici$* or /)$,i%ied he$,th pr$ctitio*er 'e%ore
doi*g &o. 0er&o*& co*&ideri*g imp,eme*ti*g proced)re& de&cri'ed
herei* &ho),d co*&),t with $* $ttor*ey 'e%ore doi*g &o. The $)thor
$*d p)',i&her do *ot $ccept ,i$'i,ity %or $*y $ctio*& $*y per&o* m$y
h$-e t$(e* $%ter re$di*g thi& 'oo(.
I* m$*y co)*trie& the )&e $*d po&&e&&io* o% m$ri5)$*$ i& i,,eg$,.
Thi& 'oo( i& i*te*ded %or ed)c$tio*$, p)rpo&e& o*,y. The $)thor doe&
*ot co*do*e A#3 i,,eg$, $cti-ity. The $)thor wi,, *ot 'e he,d *ot
re&po*&i',e %or $*y property d$m$ge+ per&o*$, i*5)rie&+ e/)ipme*t
d$m$ge+ i,,eg$, $cti-itie&+ or $*ythi*g e,&e. 3o) $c(*ow,edge $*d
$gree 'y )&i*g $*y i*%orm$tio* co*t$i*ed i* thi& 'oo( th$t it i& 1007
$t yo)r ow* ri&(<
The %o,,owi*g i*%orm$tio* pre&e*ted i* thi& 'oo( i& %or i*%orm$tio*$,
$*d e*tert$i*me*t p)rpo&e& o*,y. ;$ri5)$*$ i& $ co*tro,,ed &)'&t$*ce
$*d i& i,,eg$, to grow+ ow*+ or &e,, i* mo&t co)*trie&. The $)thor doe&
*ot wi&h to e*co)r$ge $*yo*e to $ct i* co*%,ict with their *$tio*$, ,$w&
$*d i& *ot he,d re&po*&i',e %or $*y o% yo)r $ctio*&. Thi& doc)me*t i&
%or the p)rpo&e o% &)pp,yi*g i*%orm$tio* to the p)',ic. The p)',i&her+
$)thor&+ $*d other& $&&oci$ted with the prod)ctio* o% thi& 'oo( $*d
we'&ite do *ot $d-oc$te 're$(i*g the ,$w. A,, te.t $*d i,,)&tr$tio*& $re
%or de&cripti-e p)rpo&e& o*,y. The p)',i&her $*d the $)thor& do *ot
recomme*d yo) try $*ythi*g pre&e*ted i* thi& doc)me*t. 3o) $re
e*co)r$ged to re$d $*y $*d $,, i*%orm$tio* $-$i,$',e $'o)t c$**$'i&
to de-e,op $ comp,ete '$c(gro)*d o* the &)'5ect. The $)thor $*d
p)',i&her h$-e tried to the 'e&t o% their $'i,itie& to de&cri'e the mo&t
c)rre*t c$**$'i& growi*g method&. Howe-er+ there m$y 'e &ome
mi&t$(e& i* the te.t th$t the $)thor $*d p)',i&her were )*$',e to
detect. Thi& 'oo( co*t$i*& c)rre*t i*%orm$tio* )p to the d$te o%
p)',ic$tio*. #either the p)',i&her *or the $)thor e*dor&e& $*y
prod)ct& or 'r$*d *$me& th$t $re me*tio*ed or pict)red i* thi& 'oo(.
The&e prod)ct& $re me*tio*ed or pict)red %or i,,)&tr$tio* $*d
ed)c$tio* o*,y. A*y $d-ice pro-ided i* thi& doc)me*t=e,ectric$,+
%i*$*ci$,+ &cie*ti%ic+ etc.=i& gi-e* %or e.$mp,e p)rpo&e& o*,y. #either
the p)',i&her *or the $)thor& $&&)me $*y re&po*&i'i,ity %or $*y
$ctio*& $&&oci$ted with thi& $d-ice. The i*%orm$tio* co*t$i*ed i* thi&
'oo( i& i*te*ded %or )&e o*,y i* 5)ri&dictio*& where the $cti-itie&
co*t$i*ed therei* $re ,eg$,. #o c,$im o% the $cc)r$cy+ &$%ety+ or
,eg$,ity o% the %o,,owi*g i*&tr)ctio*& co*t$i*ed i* thi& 'oo( i& m$de
$*d it i& *ot recomme*ded to %o,,ow them. 3o) $re re&po*&i',e %or
yo)r ow* $ctio*& i% yo) do &o. #othi*g co*t$i*ed i* thi& 'oo( &ho),d
'e co*&tr)ed to 'e ,eg$, or medic$, $d-ice.
The i*%orm$tio* co*t$i*ed herei* i& %or ,eg$, medici*$, c$**$'i&
c),ti-$tio* $*d )&e o*,y. To re$d thi& 'oo( yo) m)&t h$-e $ medic$,
,ice*&e or pre&criptio* to ho,d+ )&e+ or grow ,eg$, c$**$'i&. The )&e
o% $*y o% thi& i*%orm$tio* %or i,,eg$, $cti-itie& o% A#3 :I#" ho,d& 392
1007 ,i$',e %or 're$(i*g the ,$w. Thi& 'oo( %e$t)re& co*te*t $'o)t
m$ri5)$*$> co*te*t i*c,)de& i*%orm$tio* $'o)t c$**$'i& c),ti-$tio*+
the recre$tio*$, )&e o% m$ri5)$*$+ the medic$, )&e& %or m$ri5)$*$+
$*d other topic& th$t &ome -iewer& m$y %i*d o%%e*&i-e. A,, co*te*t i*
thi& doc)me*t i& %or "2CATI9#AL $*d #TRTAI#;#T
p)rpo&e& 9#L3. The $)thor wi,, *ot 'e he,d re&po*&i',e %or $*y
'eh$-ior or $ctio*& t$(e* o* $*y e.ter*$, &o)rce&+ *or doe& the
$)thor co*tro, wh$t h$ppe*& o* $*y &ite th$t ,i*(& o)t %rom thi&
doc)me*t. 3o) $re 1007 ,i$',e %or yo)r ow* $ctio*&.
LIMIT OF LIABILITY / DISCLAIMER OF WARANTY
4hi,e the p)',i&her $*d $)thor h$-e )&ed their 'e&t e%%ort& i*
prep$ri*g thi& 'oo(+ they m$(e *o repre&e*t$tio*& or w$rr$*tie& with
re&pect to the $cc)r$cy or comp,ete*e&& o% the co*te*t& o% thi& 'oo(
$*d &peci?c$,,y di&c,$im $*y imp,ied w$rr$*tie& o% merch$*t$'i,ity or
?t*e&& %or $ p$rtic),$r p)rpo&e. The $d-ice $*d &tr$tegie& co*t$i*ed
herei* m$y *ot 'e &)it$',e %or yo)r &it)$tio*. 3o) &ho),d co*&),t with
$ pro%e&&io*$, where $ppropri$te. #either the p)',i&her *or $)thor
&h$,, 'e ,i$',e %or $*y ,o&& o% pro?t or $*y other commerci$, d$m$ge&+
i*c,)di*g ')t *ot ,imited to &peci$,+ i*cide*t$,+ co*&e/)e*ti$,+ or other
d$m$ge&. Re$der& &ho),d 'e $w$re th$t I*ter*et we'&ite& o%%ered $&
cit$tio*& $*d/or &o)rce& %or %)rther i*%orm$tio* m$y h$-e ch$*ged or
di&$ppe$red 'etwee* the time thi& w$& writte* $*d whe* it i& re$d.
BAD GUY NOTICE
Hey you, the internet is a big place and a lot of files can be
downloaded illegally. I get it. I get that some of you may have
obtained my book by stealing it. I want you to know I spent nearly
5+ years working really really hard to give this gift to the community
and bring this incredible information to you. If it truly helps you and
you enoy and get a lot out of it, I would really appreciate it if you
could head over to my website and purchase an authentic copy.
!ut good vibes out into the universe, get good vibes back sevenfold"
Thanks so much, I know you#ll do the right thing.
DEDICATION
I would like to thank all the talented medicinal mariuana growers
who helped contribute to the creation of this wealth of knowledge.
This book is dedicated to all those who support green, and the
message in between. $ithout our established wonderful cannabis
grower global community of incredibly talented individuals we would
surely all be in the dark and be doomed to settle for crappy buds.
This book is dedicated to growers everywhere in the worldwide
cannabis community who get better and better on an ongoing basis.
To my dad, %im &. 'iley. $ithout you dad, I wouldn#t be able to
spread this healing knowledge to so many people in need. (ou were
the best father a punk kid could ever ask for. Thanks for putting up
with my bullshit all those years. I love you dad.
)nd to especially all of you * my fellow friends, fans, stoners,
growers, and cannabis aficionados.
Table of +ontents
,................................................
Introduction................................................................1
Marijuana Basics.........................................................3
-rowing .ariuana................................................................/
.ariuana.............................................................................5
0trains................................................................................11
+hoosing (our 2ariety..........................................................13
0eeds.................................................................................45
$orld#s -reatest 0eedbanks................................................. /6
Cannabis...................................................................46
+annabis............................................................................/5
0e7ing................................................................................51
.ethods to 8etermine 0e7...................................................94
0tages of -rowth................................................................95
2egetative -rowth...............................................................95
!re*:lowering.....................................................................56
:lowering.......................................................................... 54
i!"tin!.....................................................................#4
The ;ighting 0ystem............................................................35
;ight 0ources......................................................................<6
High Intensity 8ischarge=HI8> ;ighting.................................<3
;ighting (our !lants...........................................................6?/
&lectricity..........................................................................66<
&lictrical 0afety..................................................................615
;ighting 0chedule..............................................................615
Gro$in! Marijuana.................................................1%&
-ermination......................................................................64?
-ermination Techni@ues.....................................................645
Ance (our 0eed 0prouts....................................................6/5
!lant 0tress......................................................................655
Gro$in! 'it" (oi)...................................................16*
-rowing $ith 0oil..............................................................696
-row .edium....................................................................695
Transplanting....................................................................651
:ertiliBers..........................................................................655
-rowing Arganic...............................................................653
.aking (our Awn $orm +astings.......................................633
$atering...........................................................................6<6
pH ;evel...........................................................................1??
C)onin!....................................................................%*6
Introduction to +loning......................................................1?5
+loning.............................................................................169
+loning Techni@ue.............................................................11?
Transplanting +lones..........................................................1/5
+loning 8evices.................................................................15?
)fter +utting +are.............................................................154
Having Trouble +loningC....................................................194
+,dro-onics............................................................%6.
-rowing .ariuana Hydroponically......................................199
+hoosing (our Hydroponic -arden 0ystem..........................154
-rowing .ediums..............................................................133
Hydroponic Dutrients.........................................................1<5
T80, !!., &+....................................................................1<3
) -uideline for D!E 0trengths............................................4?5
Dutrient 0olution...............................................................466
Hydroponic 0ystem $ater..................................................465
0ystem .aintenance..........................................................416
0teriliBing and 8isinfecting (our 0ystem..............................444
Dutrient ;ockout...............................................................443
8ailyF$eekly Hydroponic 0ystem +hecklist..........................44<
Your Gro$ Ar/a......................................................34*
(our -row 'oom...............................................................4/6
0etting Gp (our -row 'oom...............................................4/9
&nvironmental +onditions :or &7plosive -rowth...................45?
(our -row 'oom +hecklists................................................436
)dvanced -row 0etups......................................................439
0etting Gp a 0crA- +abinet................................................/6/
Gro$in! Outdoors..................................................4%4
-rowing .ariuana Autdoors............................................../15
:rost................................................................................/46
+hoosing a -row 0ite......................................................../4<
!reparing (our -row 0pot..................................................//5
Tying 8own Autdoor !lants................................................/5?
-reenhouse -rowing........................................................./5/
:inal $ords......................................................................./5<
Cannabis Maint/nanc/............................................46*
+annabis !lant +are.........................................................../96
Training +annabis............................................................../94
!runing............................................................................./9/
;ow 0tress Training=;0T>.................................................../<4
)ir*;ayering......................................................................5?1
0uper +ropping.................................................................5?<
.onster +ropping..............................................................515
+ommon -rowing .istakes................................................54?
+ar0/st....................................................................3.
Harvesting .ariuana.........................................................549
$hen to Harvest...............................................................545
Harvesting (our Huds........................................................5/<
.anicuring........................................................................555
8rying..............................................................................59?
+uring..............................................................................593
0toring .ariuana..............................................................539
'egeneration F 'euvenation..............................................53<
Hashish............................................................................5<6
Ad0anc/d Gro$in!..................................................61*
)dvanced -rowing.............................................................966
-enetics...........................................................................961
Hreeding...........................................................................91?
+ollecting !ollen................................................................913
Hreeding to .ake 0eeds.....................................................9/1
Increasing Hud !otency and Harvest (ield...........................954
+A1 -eneration.................................................................931
Ador &limination................................................................56?
+onclusion........................................................................565
-lossary of Terms..............................................................56<
Make te most of te Indian Hemp Seed and sow it everywhere.
-George Washingt
'ECOME1111
2,an 2i)/, 3 Marijuana E4traordinair/
1
Introduction
$elcome, I#m so stoked for you" (ou now have access to the sum total of over
63 plus years of intense research and practice involving attempts at figuring out
the most effective way to cultivate the best cannabis on &arth. I have taught,
learned from, and helped many medicinal mariuana growers discover the
absolute best way biologically possible to grow the most elite, top*caliber
sparkling TH+ rich potent sticky dank buds as fast as possible * )nd now I#m
passing this awesome information on to you so that you can grow your own
incredible bud. In only a short time after finishing up reading this book, you will
be smoking a seemingly bottomless supply of some of the most sensational,
best tasting, highly potent euphoric*inducing bud you have ever e7perienced.
If you are an absolute beginner, then I suggest you use this guide as an ) to I
complete walk*through encompassing virtually everything you need to know to
learn how to grow some killer weed. Do worries * I have specifically designed
this book in a way that is clear, concise, and easy to follow along. :eel free to
grab a notebook and a pen, you#re going to learn a lot" I hope you#re e7cited"""
I want to congratulate you on taking this massive step for your own personal
cannabis cultivation career. (ou now have access to one of the most newest up*
to*date detailed guides that will shave literally years off of your learning curveJ
in other words K you#re starting off on a very good foot. If you apply half of the
information I will be presenting to you here, I am confident you will be ecstatic
with the results you will achieve with your treasured buds. If you#re intermediate
or advanced feel free to skip ahead to any chapter that you need to study up on
and use the book as an encyclopedia reference in order to suit your individual
growing needs, as I#m certain you will learn a lot of really cool tricks, tips L
other mariuana grower gems along the way"
Aver the last few years I#ve have seen a sharp increase in the cost of street
cannabis, and a rapid decline in its already sketchy @uality. .y father used to
always say, MThe greatest problem mankind faces today is the classic conflict
between the artist and the producer. It#s a basic Tug*A*$ar between @uality vs.
distribution. %ust look at movies, they#re literally developed on an assembly line
nowadays. 'ushed processing. +inemas are not an art form anymore, it#s a dirty
2
business" .arket value mass appeal butchers the authentic message the
creators want to get across...N )s you will soon discover, one of the greatest
benefits to growing your own cannabis is the unbeatable @uality of your very
own grown herb. It is rare to find something in life as good as your own supply
of herb grown by yourself. Dever again will you have to worry about dodgy
sources or wasting cash on to7ic, overpriced, impotent buds. The days of
unknown bud =that may or may not be packed filled with chemicals and other
health haBards that disrupt the taste, potency, and aroma in order to increase
profit> are over. -rowing your own green means you get to ditch the dealer.
.ariuana growing is a lot of fun" The more you know, the more tricks you will
invent by yourself to get the most out of your yields. 0ome of the best cannabis
growers are very e7otic with their grow methods. ) number of people have
invented so many amaBing methods to grow bigger and better cannabis plants.
I sincerely hope with the help of this guide you will learn a lot of awesome
growing methods and strategies and hopefully develop some of your very own.
) word of cautionO 8on#t become discouraged if your first growing attempts are
a total disaster. Ane of the cool things about this book is that I#m going to be
outlining the most common growing errors. I can#t promise you that you wont
make mistakes, as you most likely will at first while learning, but I have clearly
described many of them here so you#ll have a game plan and know e7actly what
to avoid. The chances of you messing up your precious plants will be greatly
reduced by following this guide properly. Do worries, you#re in good hands.
This book is massive. It contains virtually everything you need to know to grow
elite bud successfully. )t first glance you may become overwhelmed at all the
wealth of information. 'ela7, I recommend you use this book like a
walkthrough. It#s like my dad always used to sayJ MHow do you eat an elephantC
Ane bite at a time of course"N 'eference back to sections as your grow
progresses, as needed. :eel free to skip ahead to research any particular section
that interests you. If you are a first time grower ust follow along, I#m going to
take you by the hand and show you step*by*step how to grow your very own
awesome bud supply. 0o without further ado... let#s grow"
)nd remember, always keep it -'&&D, ;A2ID- and full of ;I-HT.
4
Gro$in! Marijuana
-rowing your own mariuana is e7citing and fun" Homegrown cannabis is not
only ideal for the small*time closet enthusiast, but also serves as a lucrative
career in the realm of industrial weed farmers. It is great for those looking to
generate an income ranging from part*time e7tra pocket cash to a full booming
business, and even better for those looking to ditch dealers with ridiculous top*
shelf prices so they can grow their own amaBing bud. .ariuana growers can
grow their own unlimited supply of )*-rade gana practically for free"
$hether cultivated indoors or outdoors, with hydroponics or with soil, in order
for mariuana to grow well it needs si7 essential foundational thingsO
6. ;ight. =.ust be the proper spectrum, intensity, and duration>.
1. $ater. =.ust be abundant but DAT e7cessive>.
4. )ir. =.ust be ideal temperature, flowing great, and rich in +A1>.
/. Dutrients. =.ust contain the right amounts>.
5. ) -rowing .edium. =Has to have the right te7ture and ingredients>.
9. Aptimal environmental conditions. =heat, humidity, etc>.
-rowing mariuana today is e7ploding e7ponentially in popularity. .any
authorities are referring to this sudden spike of interest as the Mgreen rushN.
$e#re on a rising wave of green that#s sweeping the globe. Dow more than ever
is an e7citing time to ump right in and learn how to grow your own crops.
) great benefit of growing your own cannabis is that most of the stuff out there
that is commercially grown is grown based on factors of the buds overall look,
and the plant#s yield amount. Aften the @uality of the high is entirely neglected
as it tends not to be a selling point. The highs you can e7perience when
growing your own plants is phenomenal"""
.any agree the best reason for growing your own is the enoyment you will get
out of watching those tiny little seeds you picked out of your stash sprout and
become some of the most lovely and lush of all house plants, and not to
mention the incredible dank buds you will produce for a lifetime supply of
delicious greens to enoy.
5
Marijuana
.ariuana, the Indian hemp plant, +annabis 0ativa=cannabis>, is a drug
composed of leaves and flowers. It is usually dried and crushed and put into
pipes or formed into cigarettes=MointsN or MbluntsN> for smoking. The drug,
known by a variety of other names, including pot, trees, grass, bud, and weed,
can also be added to foods and beverages. .ariuana varies in potency,
depending on where and how it is grown, prepared for use, or stored.
+annabis is the only plant that produces chemicals known as +annabinoids.
These cannabinoids are psychoactive and are responsible for the various effects
of mariuana. Dot all, but many cannabinoids get you high.
6
The most important cannabinoid and active ingredient, tetrahydrocannabinol
=TH+>, is present in all parts of both the male and female plants but is most
concentrated in the resin=cannabin> in the flowering tops of the female.
Hashish, a more powerful form of the drug, is made by collecting and drying
this resin and is about eight times as strong as the mariuana typically smoked
in the Gnited 0tates. 8ried flower tops =buds> of potent mariuana can contain
up to 15P TH+.
.entioned in a +hinese herbal documents dating from 15?? H+, mariuana long
has been considered valuable as an analgesic, an anesthetic, an antidepressant,
an antibiotic, and a sedative. )lthough it was usually used e7ternally=e.g., as a
balm or smoked>, in the 6<th century its tips were sometimes administered
internally to treat gonorrhea and angina pectoris.
The effect that cannabis has on the user depends on the strength, how often it#s
smoked, how recently it was smoked and how the body naturally reacts to the
drug.
7
5ositi0/ E66/cts o6 Marijuana7
.ood lift
'ela7ation, stress reduction, calming
+reative, philosophical or deep thinking...ideas flow more easily and
tends to be more creative when under the influence
Increased appreciation of music
Increased awareness of senses=tasting, feeling, smell>
+hange in e7perience of muscle fatigue. !leasant body feel. Increase in
bodyFmind connection
!ain relief=headaches, cramps, and various others>
'educed nausea=also used medically for this purpose>
.uch more.... O>
N/utra) E66/cts o6 Marijuana7
Increased appetiteJ MmunchiesN
-eneral change in consciousness=as with many psychoactives>.
0leepiness
Hlood shot red eyes=more common with certain varieties of cannabis and
ine7perienced users>
.outh dryness aka M+otton mouthN
Temporarily interrupts linear memory
8ifficulty following a train of thought, can be slightly ).8.8.
+heek, aw, facial tension=less commonly reported>
8
N/!ati0/ E66/cts o6 Marijuana7
Dausea
+oughing, asthma, upper respiratory problems
8ifficulty with short*term memory during effects and during periods of
heavy fre@uent use
0lowness and delayed reactions, especially dangerous when driving or
operating machinery
'acing heart, agitation, and tenseness
.ild to severe an7iety
!anic attacks at very high doses=usually oral> or in sensitive users
Headaches
8iBBiness, confusion, vomiting
!ossible psychological dependence development on cannabis
Q.ildQ withdrawal symptoms occur after daily use in some users. These
may last for 6*9 weeks after cessation of use and can include an7iety,
anhedonia=reduced e7perience of pleasure>, headaches, general
uneaseFdiscomfort, difficulty sleeping, and a strong desire to smoke pot.
Usin! Marijuana
There are various ways to make use of mariuana...
(8o9in!:In"a)in!7 Hurning or vaporiBing cannabis and inhaling the smoke
into the lungs is the fastest route to the blood stream. +onventional wisdom is
that holding in the smoke increases the effects felt. 'ecent research shows the
oppositeJ it causes more harm to the lungs without increasing the amount of
TH+ absorbed. 0tudies done in )ustralia indicate that <5P of the TH+ in
cannabis is absorbed in the first few seconds of inhaling. Holding in the smoke
longer ust allows more tar and other no7ious chemicals to be absorbed. Take
9
small, shallow puff s rather than deep inhalations. Irritation of the throat and
lungs is one of the most obvious adverse effects to the mariuana smoker as is
the inevitable cough upon inhaling. The cough is the body#s reaction to the
irritation of the numerous constituents of the smoke. !rolonged and repeated
e7posure to these irritants can lower resistance to, and aggravate infections
from viruses, bacteria, or fungi. The lesser coughing, the safer the smoke. The
fewer puff s the betterJ the more potent the cannabis used is the fewer puff s
re@uired. :or these reasons, it is preferable to use only the more potent flower
tops, or high grade hash for smoking use.
8espite the obvious dangers of inhaling hot smoke, there is evidence that in
some cases=ie. asthma> smoking could be a beneficial medical use of cannabis.
)nother advantage of smoking is that it allows the user to control their dosage
better as the effects are almost immediate, unlike when eating, or using TH+ in
pill or spray form.
In general however, smoking is not the best way to take cannabis, especially for
pain, being a less efficient use of the herb than eating. However, many medical
users find they appreciate the immediate and pleasurable effects of smoking
cannabis and the harm of smoking can be reduced in various ways. Ane
alternative to inhaling smoke is to release the TH+ through 2aporiBationJ
inhaling vapor rather than smoke, see vaporiBation.
5i-/s and Bon!s7 .any ingeniously designed products are on the market that
claim to offer a cooler smoke but they are not all safe or efficient to use. )void
wood, aluminum or plastic materials. Gse glass, stainless steel or brass pipes
and bongs.
;oints7 0moking cannabis in Roints is one of the least harmful ways of
smoking. ) loose, fat oint is preferable to a thin one because the temperature
of the smoke is lower in a thick oint. .i7ing cannabis with tobacco counteracts
the positive effects of TH+. 0ome research suggests that +annabis may actually
off set some of the harmful effects of tobacco but there is also evidence that the
rela7ing effects of cannabis on the lungs allows the to7ins in tobacco to get in
deeper. There is evidence that a thin oint gives a more stimulating Rhigh, while
a fat oint has a more sedative effect=due to different burn temp in Rfat or Rthin
10
oints>. )void rolling papers with #strawberry# tasting chemicals and the like,
#rainbows# and any use of colored inks.
'at/r 5i-/s7 'ecent research suggests that water pipes are the most harmful
and least efficient methods of smoking cannabis. The water absorbs a great
deal of the TH+ in the smoke=up to 5?P">, increasing the amount of tar the
smoker must ingest to get the desired result. Gsing a water pipe with a
mouthpiece less than 1?cm from the water level can allow water vapor and
water drops to enter the lungs.
<a-ori=ation7 Gsing a vaporiBer which heats but does not burn the cannabis, is
an alternative to smoking. The process involves releasing the TH+ as vapor
which is inhaled rather than smoke. The effect is Rclearer and it is far
more economical and reduces the e7posure of the throat and lungs to products
of burning. 2aporiBation works because TH+, the active ingredient of cannabis,
is a resin that vaporiBes at a lower combustion=burning> point than cellulose.
(ou can make your own vaporiBer very cheaply or buy various types starting at
around S45 up to S4??+ for the #hospital standard# #2olcano. High heat destroys
some of the TH+ in smoked cannabis=estimates vary>. 2aporiBers heat it more
gentlyJ the TH+ molecules decarbo7ylate and evaporate in a whitish vapor. )
problem with vaporiBers is with correct use. .any users tend to overheat and
conse@uently burn the stuff. They are now #smoking# not #vaporiBing# the
cannabis, often without realiBing * and ust as many to7ic tars are released as
smoking in a pipe.
2aporiBers sometimes fail to satisfy longtime recreational smokers who associate
burning lungs with getting high. They distrust the incredibly smooth taste of the
vapors, and they don#t like waiting 1? seconds to 6 minute for each hit.
However they always like the fact that their supply seems to last up to four
times as long because vaporiBation wastes so little of the active ingredients lost
through smoking. 0ome regular users of vaporiBers have complained that they
produce a fine dust along with the vapor. This can#t be good and they should
maybe be fitted with a filter system but vaporiBers are still the safest way to
consume cannabis using heat.
11
Eatin! or Drin9in!7 0imply sucking a small piece of hashish or eating cannabis
prepared as a cake, drink or other food is a very effective and economical
method of using cannabis. The effects take up to an hour and last /*61
hours. Aver dose is possible by eating too much. This could result in an
unpleasant Rwhirlingpit feeling but no lasting physical damage. If in doubt
slowly sample the doseJ e7periment with a little, and then a little more. .ore
worrying are the dangers of adulteration and infection encouraged by the
unregulated trade in cannabis. These include smuggling methods and
profiteering practices which can make eating the resulting product totally
undesirable. In general avoid eating most hash especially R0oap Har and R.anali
or #0@uiggie# black. &ating Hemp seeds or their oil=which have no TH+ content>
is a very valuable source of nutritionJ a @uality which can have considerable
medical value and contribute to general well
being.
Tinctur/s7 The active ingredients of the plant are e7tracted as oil and can then
be used either as drops taken orally, or the ingredient for creams and lotions to
be rubbed on the skin to relieve pain and other symptoms.
Cr/a8s and otions7 )pplied on the skin to treat complaints ranging from
muscle pain andFor tremors to ache. (ou can make these your self. The simplest
way to do this is to put leaves and buds of cannabis into a bottle filled with
surgical alcohol available in any chemist. ;eave in a dark place for 6*4 weeks,
shaking every day or as often as possible, then use to rub on area suffering
from pain.
'"at G/ts You +i!"
The main factors in determining the @uality and intensity of the high are the
amount, and the ratio of cannabinoids present in your bud. +annabinoids are
what are responsible for getting that sensational soaring high out of your buds.
+urrently there are more than /? known cannabinoids, but most of these occur
in very tiny amounts and aren#t important to the @uality of the high. The
cannabinoids that are found in the greatest @uantity and have the most
influence on your bud#s high are TH+, +HD TH+2, and +H+.
12
TH+=tetrahydrocannabinol> is the main psychoactive ingredient In mariuana. It
accounts for most of the high. TH+ occurs in all varieties of cannabis.
+H8=cannabidiol> occurs in almost all cannabis varieties in @uantities that range
from trace amounts to <5 percent of all cannabinoids present. In its pure form
+H8 is not psychoactive, but it does have sedative, antibiotic, and analgesic
@ualities. +H8 contributes to the high by interacting with TH+ to potentiate or
antagoniBe certain @ualities of the high. In general, it potentiates the depressant
effects and antagoniBes the euphoric effects. +H8 is also known for delaying the
onset of the high, but makes it last much longer. 0o TH+*+H8 ratios are very
important when considering the effects of your high. Eeep in mind that the
ratios of cannabinoids found in different varieties of cannabis plants also tend to
vary greatly.
T+C >T/tra",drocannabino)?
TH+ is the active psychoactive ingredient in mariuana that gets a user high.
$ithout it, or in e7tremely low amounts K you don#t get high. )ll plant#s TH+
levels vary greatly. 0ome plants can have TH+ levels of 6??P, yet the @uantity
of the TH+ isn#t high so it#s less potent. An the other hand, some plants may
only have 5?P TH+, but the levels will be very high. ) good potent plant=one
we intend to teach you how to grow using this book> will have both high levels
and @uantities of TH+.
13
The key difference between TH+ levels and TH+ @uantities is that TH+ levels are
genetically predetermined. This means that they are not under the influence of
the grower. TH+ @uantities though are in fact controllable by the grower. $hen
growing weed, the TH+ @uantities are basically bud mass and how much resin
can be generated.
To determine how potent a plant is when e7amining strains check for the TH+
levels to determine the potential potency of the plant. Dowadays many
seedbanks clearly accurately state their strains# legitimate TH+ levels, but there
are also a lot of shady seed dealers out there too who over*e7aggerate their
TH+ levels=read on to find out about some recommended reputable suppliers>.
CBD >Cannabidio)?
+H8 is what amplifies certain effects of TH+ and depresses others. +H8 is an
isomer of TH+, which means they share the same molecular formula, but have
different structural formulas. Hasically they are made up of the e7act same
molecules, e7cept that the molecules are connected in different orders.
+H8 by itself has no psychoactive properties=+H8 by itself does not get you
high>, however it does regulate the euphoric effect of TH+ and gives it more of
a sedative effect=more of a QchillQ high>. +annabis often has a high +H8 content
=as much or more than /?P +H8 in most +annabis e7tracts>.
High TH+ and low +H8 produce a strong clear headed, more energetic high.
;ow TH+ and high +H8 produces a stoned lethargic feeling, a heavy sluggish
tired body and a dull feeling mind. High levels of both TH+ and +H8 produces a
14
strong, almost dreamlike high.
To sum things up, if you want a more energetic high, you want more TH+ and
less +H8. Gsually 0ativa and 0ativa*dominant hybrids have more TH+ and less
+H8. If you want a more rela7ed high, then of course your want more +H8,
usually found in Indica and Indica*dominant hybrids. Hut remember +H8 on its
own does nothingJ it only regulates effects of the TH+ high. 0o regardless if you
want a high TH+ content, the difference is the ratio of +H8 to TH+.
.ariuana is ust like any other plant that is grown. It needs a combination of
proper abundant light, warm +A1 rich air, clean water, and sufficient nutrients in
the grow medium to ensure vigorous growth. $hen these conditions are
optimum, your harvest is optimum. Af course there are more factors to take into
consideration, but for right now, these are the basics you need to understand.
The end goal is to grow a non*pollinated female plant=known as M0insemillaN>,
that is flowering and producing lots and lots of buds with resin glands=that
contain high levels and amounts of TH+> aka Mdank potent big frosty budsN that
provide a sensational smoke. $eed is always grown from the female plant.
)nother crucial part of growing is to properly clean, cure, and process the plants
so that enables you to enoy the full flavor, smell, potency, and taste of the
plant.
:irst you must decide whether or not you want to grow indoors or outdoors.
'", Gro$ Indoors@
-rowing indoors is very popular. The benefits of growing mariuana indoors is
that you have 6??P full control of the environment that you simply cannot
regulate outdoors * that means you are guaranteed to get a good @uality plant
virtually every time and be able to keep your plants safe during their delicate
growth cycles. -rowing indoors can make way for some seriously wicked bud.
Indoor growing means you have complete control over the humidity, optimal
temperature, nutrients, lighting, and so many other crucial factors that are
essential for the plants thriving growth. In addition you also have full control
over when and how to flower your plants by illuminating them, as you do not
15
when growing outdoors. It is also much safer to grow indoors.
Therefore it is of the opinion of many growers that the @uality of mariuana
grown indoors is far superior to mariuana grown outdoors, which is essential if
you are going to be selling to picky clientele.
16
There are of course disadvantages to growing mariuana indoors. Datural
sunlight is the best source of lighting for any &arthly crop. Indoor lighting is
powerful, but nothing comes close to the solar orb. )lso, ventilation issues are
often a big concern for indoor growers. )n enclosed area often generates heat
and lacks sufficient fresh air. Hoth of these problems can be easily remedied
with a proper ventilation system though=discussed in detail later>. )lso before
deciding, keep in mind growing indoors, depending on the space you choose,
will generally tend to produce smaller crops. 8epending on the space you decide
to grow in, the crops usually will not reach the height they normally would
outdoors.
17
'", Gro$ Outdoors@
-rowing outdoors can save you lots of money when it comes to lighting.
Autdoor cannabis plants will use the greatest source of light, the sun, which is
free" Hut, keep in mind when growing outdoors the photoperiod tends to be
much more gradual so it takes longer for the plants to fully bloom out during
flowering. Ane great benefit of growing outdoors is that you do not have to
worry about changing your air supply regularly and constantly, as outdoors this
occurs naturally with an abundance of fresh air all the time being supplied to
your plants.
18
Dow let#s talk numbers. If you grow 6? plants indoors with a /?? watt metal
halide grow light, each plant will yield about T to 6 ounce of mariuana. =8on#t
worry, we have some tips later that will show you how to increase yield, but for
now these are average guidelines.> ) single plant grown outdoors will yield
about a pound=69 ounces> of mariuana, or sometimes even more"
There are also downsides to growing outdoors. (ou have no control over light
cycles and must grow on the natural annual harvest cycle, you have absolutely
no privacy and some areas re@uire you to take privacy precautions in order to
grow for medical use. Autdoors you have open ventilation which means your
plants could be pollinated by wild pollen messing up your attempts to breed
seed of a certain strain or avoid seed. (ou are also mostly limited to soil grows
outdoors unless you have a greenhouse which is sort of a hybrid of indoor and
outdoor growing.
0o remember that generally outdoors U massive yields, lower @uality due to lack
of environmental control. Indoors U lower yields, much higher @uality.
'"at is b/tt/r A ",dro-onics or soi)@
Indoor growers are initially faced with a very important choice. 8o they go with
a hydroponic system, or soilC An one hand you have soil, the traditional growth
medium that has been used for thousands of years to grow plants, and on the
other you#ve got hydroponics, a more recent practice of growing plants with
water and nutrients but no soil.
:or a first time grower it is popular opinion that the QbetterQ, more convenient
setup is soil. Hydroponics makes plants grow faster, but when starting out,
unless you learn e7tremely @uickly it generally won#t make your buds more
potent than soil=at first>. Hydroponics should be attempted after you have a few
successful soil crops under your belt, or if you feel you will be able to ump right
in successfully without becoming overwhelmed. If you are starting from seed
and growing for personal use, soil is the practical growing medium. If the crop is
started with clones and is commercial, a hydroponics setup is then definitely
more practical.
19
It is of popular opinion that soil is far superior in terms of @uality factors such as
bud taste and flavor. !eople pay fortunes for the best @uality, so soil is ideal for
this reason. It is also cheaper on your wallet. .any growers also find that soil is
more forgiving. If you make a mistake with hydroponics the damage can be
drastic and irreversible.
) hydroponics garden#s nutrient and root setup aids in faster plant development,
but it takes a lot of monitoring. Hydroponic gardens benefit the overall growth
of the plant in terms of siBe * root systems are spread throughout soil in order
to increase surface area and the chance that the plant will absorb minerals and
water that permeate through the grow medium.
$ith hydroponically grown plants, the nutrients are present all throughout the
li@uid mi7ture. That way, the root system does not have to be as e7tensive as
with soil*based plants. This means that the plant can devote more nutrients and
energy to growth above the root system, which is the kind of growth that leads
to potent big buds.
)s plants grown in soil begin to grow larger their root systems begin to cramp.
They then must be placed in a larger container, or transplanted. Hydroponically
grown cannabis does not need to be transplanted. This saves time and
increases growing efficiency greatly=hydroponically grown plants do not have to
deal with problems such as Mtransplant shockN>.
20
Hydroponic grow mediums are definitely an improvement over traditional soil
when it comes to speed of production and overall yield, but it is much easier to
grow mariuana in soil.
It is not that difficult to set up and operate a hydroponic system, but one detail
like a faulty irrigation timer can cause devastation if not immediately corrected.
The hydroponic solution must be monitored closely and kept balanced, while a
well prepared soil solution may not need any additional fertiliBers for the entire
life of the plant. )s long as you water the soil when it gets dry the plant will
thrive and be happy.
0oil*grown pot is considered by many to have a more palatable taste than
hydroponically grown herb, but there are always e7ceptions to such rules. 0ome
growers get the best of both worlds by e7perimenting with organic hydroponics,
but most use basic stock solutions that contain fertiliBer salts in a readily
available form.
21
These salts are easy to administer in tried*and*true formulas, but the problem is
that these stock solutions tend to leave a metallic taste in the precious produce.
&7perienced growers know to leach their plants before harvest to remove
residual salts from the buds, but it appears that few bother to leach sufficiently
for a truly clean, pure taste.
) milder feed solution will prevent the build*up of e7cess fertiliBer salts in the
bud. ;eaching time varies from grower to grower, from two days to two weeks.
0ome use plain or distilled water, others simply use a very diluted feed solution.
:or the newbie grower, soil is definitely a great choice. ) Hydroponics setup
takes up more room, is less stealthy=along with the noise>, plus the care and
monitoring of the system, and high costs are often too much for a newbie first
starting out. Hut, as cannabis cultivation gains widespread popularity, easy to
use ine7pensive all*in*one hydroponic grow systems are available for
purchasing.
>Bor ti-s on c"oosin! t"/ ri!"t ",dro-onic s,st/8 6or ,ouC -)/as/ r/6/r
to t"/ ",dro-onic s/ction.?
22
(trains
The first step for growing your own buds is to obtain some good mariuana seed
strains. This first crucial step to reaping the highest @uality and @uantity yields is
starting off on the right foot with with the best +annabis strain seeds you can
get. -enetics determine the @uality of the maturing plants, so what you want to
look for are strains with favorable genetics. !otency, aroma, fast growth, early
maturation, and resistance to fungus L pests are a good start. The best seeds
come from the best plants, and vice versa.
&ach variety is either a MpureN species type=taking two plants in the same
species and crossing them> or a McrossbreedN of two or more species=taking two
plants from different species and crossing them>. &7amples are !ure 0ativa,
0ativa=mostly sativa species with indica>, !ure Indica, Indica=mostly Indica with
some 0ativa>,and IndicaF0ativa Hybrid=this is a 5?F5? cross between a 0ativa
and Indica species>.
If you are serious about producing mariuana, don#t settle for any available seed
you can get, go for the best.
>at/r I $i)) s"o$ ,ou 8, to- r/co88/nd/d r/)iab)/ s//d ban9s $"o
o66/r Dua)it, s//d strains at )o$ -ric/s $it" st/a)t" discr/t/ s"i--in!
n/ar t"/ /nd o6 t"is s/ctionC so s)o$ ,our $"//)s Turbo.?
23
(o 6irst t"in!s 6irstC $"at /4act), do/s t"/ t/r8 EstrainF
8/an@
$ell, a mariuana strain is simply what sets the mariuana apart. It offers uni@ue
characteristics. 2eteran growers can recogniBe these specific on*the*market
strains ust by mere observation.
.ost strains of mariuana are derived from two species of cannabis, they are
+annabis Indica and +annabis 0ativa. Hoth species have very uni@ue
characteristics that affect the user differently. If you are a complete beginner
than we highly suggest you start your first batch off with Indica in order to learn
how to grow properly. )s you gain more e7perience you can craft an
IndicaF0ativa MhybridN mi7, and then eventually a complete 0ativa strain.
)n IndicaF0ativa mi7 will yield a larger crop that is not as tall as a pure 0ativa,
but TH+ level will be lower and +H8 levels will be higher. If you are growing
indoors this InidcaF0ativa hybrid is strongly recommended due to it having the
best high and best indoor growth characteristics. 0ativas are hard to grow
indoors due to specific height re@uirements and late flowering tendencies, so a
hybrid can be bred that will have the energetic cerebral high of the 0ativa and
the early maturation L Measy*to*growN characteristics of the Indica plant.
24
Cannabis Indica
!hysical +haracteristicsO
Height K 0@uat and dense with heavy, compact buds.
Dodes K Has long internodes between branches, averaging 4*9 inches.
;eaf K Hroad pointy leaves with no markings or patterns, rounded on the sides.
Indica leaves are wide with short fingers.
Indica#s originally come from the hash producing countries of the world like
)fghanistan, Tibet, and .orocco. They are short dense plants, with broad leaves
and often grow a darker green. )fter flowering starts they will be mature in 9 to
3 weeks. The buds will be thick and dense, with flavors and aromas ranging
from pungent skunk to sweet and fruity.
Indica has higher +H8 and lower TH+ levels than 0ativa. In laymens terms this
means mariuana from a pure +annabis Indica strain will produce a heavy,
stony, tiresome sleepy type of stone in the user. )s far as the yield of +annabis
Indica plants goes, it is usually higher than +annabis 0ativa plants, and they
take a little bit less time to mature. Indica buds tend to be smelly * they smell
like a pungent bad body odor. Their smoke is thick, even a small toke will often
induce fits of coughing" ) !ure Indica high has the properties of a body stone F
couch potato feel. The smoke from an Indica is generally a body type stone,
rela7ing and laid back. The best Indicas have a rela7ing social high, which
allows the person to sense and feel the environment, but does not lead to
thinking or over*analyBing the e7perience. !oor @uality Indica mariuana and
hashish contain high @uantities of +H8. This is where the toker becomes lead*
headed and sleepy.
25
Not/7 Bor d/sirab)/ 8/dica) 8arijuana ,ou s"ou)d !ro$ a -)ant )o$ in T+C and
ric" in CBD. /t t"/ -)ant 0/!/tat/ 6or a )on!/r -/riod o6 ti8/ and "ar0/st $"/n a))
-isti)s "a0/ attain/d t"/ir co)orC i./. as )at/ as -ossib)/. Mor/ on t"is )at/r.
+annabis Indica strains are easier to grow and don#t get as tall as +annabis
0ativa strains, but they tend to be bushier and have to be grown further apart.
They tend to be thick and strong, they can take more cold than the sativa *
overall they are ust a tougher plant. This is why the Indica strain is best for
newbies and when growing in an area where height is a consideration, like a
small closet or cabinet. =If you have your heart set on growing sativa as a
beginner, then we recommend a Dorthern ;ights cross, as this is a very easy to
grow 0ativa strain indoors>.
0o the great thing about growing an Indica strain is that it produces a higher
yield, is much easier to grow, it#s shorter in height, and it grows and matures
faster. )t maturity, the leaves start to turn a dark purple. It has short branches
laden with thick, dense buds, which mature early. Indica plants tend to be short,
bushy, mature early, have more chlorophyll and less accessory pigments
=accessory pigments protect the plant from e7cessive sunlight>. )s Indica strains
have more chlorophyll than 0ativa they grow and mature faster.
The only downside is that Indica tends to be less potent, and usually doesn#t
taste as good. Gnder artificial light an Indica plant will mature faster than a
0ativa. )ppro7imately four weeks of e7tra light is re@uired to bring a 0ativa plant
to maturity, and even then its# weight is often much lower. Therefore, Indica
tends to be a favorite among industrial weed farmers. .ore Indica strains are
grown for sales*specific goals, making the dealerFgrower richer.
26
Cannabis (ati0a
!hysical +haracteristicsO
Height K Tall and hardy with fluffy buds.
Dodes K Has short internodes between branches, averaging 4 inches or less.
;eaf K Darrow finger*like rounded leaves with marble*like patterns. 0lender, with
long fingers.
0ativa has higher TH+ content and lower +H8 levels than Indica. This means
that mariuana from a pure 0ativa strain produces a more cognitive=in the
brain>, MfloatingN type of high that tends to be more energetic when compared
with pure Indica. 0ativa buds smell sweet, fruity and perfumed, and their smoke
is usually smooth and easily inhaled. Ance flowering has begun, they can take
anywhere from 6? to 69 weeks to fully mature. :lavors range from earthy to
sweet and fruity.
They grow very @uickly and can reach heights of 1? feet in a single season.
They originally come from +olombia, .e7ico, Thailand and 0outheast )sia. The
buds are long and thin=makes for much fluffier lighter bud>, far less densely
populated than the Indica, although longer in length=sometimes stretching 4ft.
in or more along the branch>. The stomas of the flowering bud may be tinged
slightly purple in a cool climate but in a warmer environment will turn dark
orange or even red. .aturation time varies considerably.
0ativa plants are taller, take longer to mature, have less chlorophyll and more
accessory pigments=accessory pigments protect the plant from e7cessive
sunlight>. )s 0ativa strains have less chlorophyll than Indica and they take
27
longer to grow, mature, and re@uire more light. 0ativas have a huge root
system. They are much more drought tolerant than the Indica plant. The yield
generally tends to be lower than indica, but the plants are way more potent.
The 0ativa plants tend to also grow taller, and take longer to mature... so they
are best suited for outdoor growing.
Hut don#t worry, there are certain strains you can get specifically designed for
growing indoors.
The good thing about growing +annabis 0ativa buds is that they are more
potent and taste really really good. Typically, pure sativas have a high TH+F+H8
ratio =that is to say, not much +H8>, and so they tend to provide clear, buBBy,
MupN highs. $hen smoking a sativa the high is very +erebral, you have a rush of
energy, a buBB in the body and a great way of getting the housework done
without vegging out on the couch. An the other hand, pure indicas tend to have
much more +H8 present. +ommercial hash is usually manufactured using the
resin of Indicas, e7plaining its stony, drowsy high.
The downsideC ;ower yield, takes longer to mature, and generally harder to
grow.
Not/7 I6 ,our s//d "as a ratio suc" as 4*G (ati0aC 6*G Indica t"/n ,ou can
i8a!in/ $"at t"/ "i!" $i)) b/ )i9/. It "as 4*G o6 t"/ E"/ad "i!"FC and 6*G o6 t"/
Ebod, ston/F.
0o remember, Indica plants have a heavy, stony high that is rela7ing and can
help different medical problems.
0ativa plants have an energetic, cerebral high which can stimulate brain activity
and may produce hallucinations.
Hybrid strains have a combination of both Indica and 0ativa highs which are
relative to strain ratio. The leaves of a hybrid tend to be thinner than an Indica,
but much broader than a 0ativa. Ance you get good it is possible to recogniBe a
good hybrid solely by the leaves once you know what to look for.
28
C"oosin! Your <ari/t,
+hoosing your cannabis variety is e7tremely important.
It really depends on your growing goals. There are
several key factors to consider when deciding what
varieties of cannabis you want to grow * the type of
high, the maturation time, and the shape of the plant
all are very important. Ance you have chosen your
@uality seedbank supplier and have a good idea of
what type of plant you want to grow, it is now time to
choose your seeds wisely.
.any newer growers make the mistake of choosing
cannabis varieties that favor a high potency thinking
this is what they want. The @uality of high is ust as, if
not more of an important selection factor.
Not/7 B/ sur/ to c"oos/ t"/ BE(T -ossib)/ s//d ,ou can
!/t ,our "ands on b/caus/ )at/r ,ou can -roduc/ ,our
o$n s//ds and c)on/s 6ro8 t"at strain1
.ake sure your seed strains have good genetics. This
is +'G+I);. Had genetics can lead to mutations,
warping, flowering problems, poor germination
success rates, ad nauseum. 0ometimes even
problematic nutrient symptoms will appear even though
your nutrients are fine and you know for a fact a
nutrient problem does not e7ist. It is very important to
find a reputable supplier for top*shelf @uality strains
that are bred with great genetics.
If you are a first time medicinal grower I would
recommend Hig Hud, Top //, Dorthern ;ights, or 0kunk
V6. )ll of these are great K they are the easiest, most
durable, with great yields.
29
)nother very important factor to take into consideration when choosing a
cannabis variety is the plant#s yield. 0ome plants will bud heavily and produce
very very thick top colas and others simply wont. ) heavy*yielding plant can be
worth easily twice as much as a lesser*yielding one. ='emember Indica varieties
are great for commercial growing as they produce heavy yields and mature
early.>
If you#re commercially growing, in general the type of high does not seem to be
an important marketing factor at all. The yield, taste, aroma, and the overall
bud appearance are important in determining the final price amount.
:or some, the type of high may be more important to them than their yield
amount, and that#s AE and very common.
Not/7 B/8ini=/d s//ds -roduc/ a "i!"/r G o6 6/8a)/ s//dsC but 1**G 6/8a)/ is
n/0/r !uarant//d
0o again, it all really depends on your individual goals as a grower...
8on#t feel frustrated when at first trying to decide. Hecause there is large
selection of strains in the internet, this can sometimes get overwhelming when
trying to decide which one to order. +hoosing is not as difficult as you may
think. There are really only two sides of the mariuana family * Indica#s and
0ativa#s.
+ombining different Indicas, different 0ativas or a combination thereof creates
hybrids. The resulting hybrid strains will grow, mature and smoke in relationship
to the IndicaF0ativa percentages they end up containing.
30
Indoor 0s Outdoor Cannabis (//d <ari/ti/s
The ne7t thing to check for is if they are meant for indoor or outdoor
growing. ) lot of new growers argue saying you can use indoor*bred seeds
outdoors and vice versa but they will find that trying the opposite does not
produce satisfactory results. Autdoor growers want plants that mature early
before the arrival of frost, thieves, or pests. Indoor growers generally are
looking for compact plants that ripen @uickly and uniformly=so that light and
space are used in the most efficient predictable manner possible>.
0o for outdoor mariuana cultivation choose among outdoor intended cannabis
seeds strains. .odern mariuana seeds varieties are bred with high level of
specialiBation, take advantage of that and use an outdoor genetics of mariuana
seeds for best acclimatiBation, pest resistance and high natural sunlight
absorption.
$hether or not a strain can be grown outdoors also depends on the length of
season you have. Take note of listed appro7imate flowering time. This is most
important feature to consider and is completely influenced by the IndicaF0ativa
ratio.
Typically you will want plants that will mature before the danger of frost or bad
weather comes along. The more 0ativa that is in the mi7, the longer it takes to
finish up. If you have a very long growing season, most strains can be grown
outdoors. These flowering periods are appro7imate and will vary depending on
conditions. :rom this foundational starting point you can then go back to what
you like and the descriptions of the plants.
!lan to grow indoorsC !ick a good seedbank and you can browse through a
broad range of indoor cannabis seeds strains. 0ince modern mariuana seeds
varieties are bred with high level of specialiBation, you can get a customiBed
indoor mariuana strain that has genetics favoring shorter plants, higher yields,
and @uicker growing L flowering.
31
+/i!"t
$hen growing cannabis indoors, you have complete control over how tall your
plants get. (ou control this by how long you grow them before initiating
flowering. )rtificial lights do not efficiently penetrate more than 4 feet down into
the garden, so it makes little sense to grow them any bigger than that.
)fter the light schedule is changed to 61 hours on and 61 hours off, flowering
will begin in about 5 to 6/ days. 8uring this time the plants will continue to
grow another 9 to 6/ inches and then stop. How much they will grow depends
on the Indica*0ativa ratio of the strain. 0ativas will stretch the most. 8epending
on this ratio, flowering should be initiated at around 63 to 1/ inches to achieve
the end height of 49 inches. How long it will take to get this tall depends on the
strain and the conditions in the garden.
5ot/nc,
Dearly all of the strains available today are pretty potent. The success of the
eventual potency outcome will depend on your personal tastes and the
conditions in which they are grown. .ost seedbanks do not test the TH+
percentages of strains and no one is really sure what the numbers mean when
they do.
Yi/)ds
(ield is primarily determined by the conditions in which the cannabis is grown.
Hut in regards to end yield amount genetics does come into play. )ll of the
yields listed in your seedbank for the strains are appro7imate and depends a lot
on how they are grown and the @uality of the environment. Think of it like an
average. (ou can probably get more. =I#m confident you will if you follow the
powerful techni@ues correctly inside this eHook">
Indoor lights don#t penetrate down very far so it is better to grow a larger
number of smaller plants to achieve the highest yield of top @uality bud.
.a7imum yields indoors are primarily coming from Indicas and mostly Indica
hybrids * the more 0ativa in the mi7, the lower the yields tend to be.
32
Typically, your indoor yield is really limited only by the amount of light you have,
not the strain you choose. It is up to you as a grower to ma7imiBe your plant#s
potential inside your grow space. &7periment to find out how each strain will
respond best.
B)o$/rin! Ti8/s
:lowering times are an indication of how long it will take the plant to mature
indoor after flowering has been induced by changing the lights to a 61F61 on off
light cycle. This will also be affected by the environment to a certain degree, but
is pretty much fi7ed in the plant.
Indica#s are faster flowering than 0ativas and hybrids are in relationship to the
percentage of each they contain. 0ativa#s grow very @uickly and if you wait too
long to flower them they will outgrow the limits of the space and will not fill out.
An the other hand, if an Indica is not grown for long enough, the yield can be
greatly reduced.
Gro$in! N/ar T"/ EDuator
If you live near the &@uator the 0outh
Indian varieties from Tamil and .adya
!radish would do very well. These plants
are very vigorous and flower abundantly
in India#s hot, dry summers.
33
Gr/at C"oic/s 6or Gro$in! N/ar T"/ EDuator7
.aster Eush
.aster Eush 7 Dorthern ;ight
0hiva
Dorthern ;ight 7 0hiva
Hindu Eush
These varieties are adapted to flower in Dovember and 8ecember in India, but
with the slightly shorter days in other regions, they will flower a little earlier,
maturing in Dovember. Ather varieties that you also might grow are landraces
from Thailand, +ambodia, %amaica and HraBil and some of the central )frican
countries.
)fghani
/ $ay =:our way>
0waBi 7 0kunk
Thai 7 0kunk
.aroc 7 0kunk
(ou could try some of the mostly 0ativa commercial varieties. These are
adapted for higher latitudes so they will flower several months earlier where you
are, ripening in 0eptember and Actober. The HaBe varieties may also be of some
use. However, your best program might be to use well*adapted 0ativas and to
make your own crosses with Indicas or Indica*0ativa hybrids.
!urple !ower
8urban !oison
HaBe
HaBe 6< 7 0kunk
0ilver HaBe
34
Hackcrossing tropical hybrids with Indicas or 0ativa*Indica hybrids produce
shorter, more controlled plants than the two to three*meter 0ativa giants. $ith
15P Indica heritage, these plants will begin flowering and will mature in
Actober, one to one and a half months earlier than the purebreds.
E4a8-)/ (train ist Accordin! to +i!"
0tarting with the clearest highs at the top and the stoniest last. 0kunkV6
is the Bero standard since most smokers have e7perienced it, and it is a
very stable variety.
H3 E(u-/r (ati0asF A </r, )o$ in CBD 3 Ed!,C tri--,7
Thai
HaBe
Devilles HaBe
35
H% E5art, '//dF A ots o6 )au!"t/r7
0ilver HaBe
HaBe 7 skunk
Thai skunk
Hubblegum
+inderella <<
Hubblegum 7 +inderella <<
H1 EDa,ti8/ (8o9/F 3 Ma9/s a)) T< int/r/stin!7
0ilver !earl 7 Thai 0kunk
%ack Herer
&clipse
+alifornia orange bud =8utch !assion>
0ilver !earl =0ensi>
Hig Hud
Hlueberry
8urban skunk
* A EI/ro (tandardF A T"in9 about doin! stu66C but )at/r7
0kunkV6
A1 A ECouc"Aoc9 IndicasF A 2/)a4in!C droo-in! /,/)ids7
Hindu Eush
0hiva 0kunk
Dorthern ;ightsV5
.isty
36
0weet Tooth
.ost commercial hash
A% A E5art, Ji))/rsF A ots o6 CBD 3 Ti8/ 6or b/d7
$hite $idow
+hronic
)fghani
Hlack 8omina
37
(//ds
0eeds are the result of se7ual propagation of mariuana plants. They contain the
genes of both the male and female parent plants. 0ome plants known as
hermaphrodites, produce both male and female flower#s on the same plant. The
genetics code contained within the tiny seed will determine the plant#s siBe,
pest resistance, root stem leaf and flower production, cannabinoid level and
many other vital factors. 0trong seeds produce healthy plants, and heavy
harvest. )nd you can only get strong seeds from a strong healthy parent.
(/)/ctin! <iab)/ (//ds
Ane of The most important decisions a grower makes when growing mariuana
is choosing a starting -rade*) Wuality seed. 0eeds vary in siBe and coloring
according to their individual cannabis variety. Hunk seeds U dirt weed. ) good
seed will not be cracked or deformed. The seed should not be green * a green
seed is not fully mature. $hen selecting your seeds make sure they are not
shiny, or e7cessively dark. These seeds will most likely not germinate. (ou want
your seeds to be hard and dark.
38
Indica seeds tend to be larger than 0ativa seeds. Indica seeds often have what
appears to be MBebraN stripes. This helps you determine the origin and strain of
the seeds. :or e7ample, if a seed vendor says a particular seed will grow out as
0ativa, but the seed is very large, you can bet that the seed is an Indica and
that the vendor isn#t giving you accurate information. -rowers select seeds that
are plump, oily and healthy*looking. $hitish, light tan, weak, pale, green
immature or cracked seeds are usually not viable. ) seeds viability is determined
by pressing it against your fingers or against a hard surface. Had seeds will
crumble.
.ature seeds that are hard, beige, dark brown and spotted or mottled have the
highest germination rate. 0oft, pale, or green seeds are usually immature and
should be avoided. Eeep in mind seed color and pattern are also affected
naturally by the need for camouflage.
'A2NING7 It is 0/r, i8-ortant ,ou c"oos/ s//ds 6ro8 -)ants t"at ar/
suit/d to t"/ !ro$in! conditions in ,our !ard/n. You do not $ant to
bu, a -)ant t"at $i)) !ro$s 1* 6t ta)) $"/n !ro$in! insid/ a cabin/t1
Bo))o$in! t"/s/ -ro-/r !uid/)in/s ,ou can /nsur/ a succ/ss6u)C -ot/ntC
satis6,in! !ro$.
$eak permeable seeds can allow disease and pests to move in. 0tay away from
soft, pale, immature, white, fragile seeds that crush easily in between your
finger and thumb.
39
;ook for mature seeds that are strong, hard, L beige to a dark*brown. If it#s
spotted or mottled you can bet it has the highest germination rate.
(/)/ctin! T"/ 5ro-/r G/n/tics
0ince humans have been cultivating cannabis for thousands of years, virtually
hundreds of varieties are available to the modern day grower. There are many
commercial seedbanks that sell an assortment of award winning time*tested
strains. He sure to select a plant that will survive in the climate it is to be grown
in. :or e7ample, a plant native to %amaica, where the growing season is longer,
will not be able to complete flowering in +anada. Enow the date of the first
e7pected frost and choose a variety that will be ready for harvest before then. If
you are growing commercially then the yield per plant is also important.
8ifferent varieties have different yields. The biggest yielding plants are grown
near the e@uator where the sun is much more intense and the growing season
is longer. If these plants are chosen they may have to be finished in a
greenhouse in the northern G0 and +anada.
40
'"/r/ To G/t (//ds@
Huying seeds is tricky. If you can#t find a friend willing to hook you up with some
@uality seeds then your ne7t best bet is grabbing your seeds online. There are a
lot of sketchy companies out there nowadays. $e#ve heard countless horror
stories about online seedbank companies where lots people have payed top
dollar for their seeds and never received them. Then the company mysteriously
disappeared, with a disconnected phone line and complete with a missing
website. $hat a way to blow X1??" (ou need to be e7tremely careful when
buying seeds nowadays. 8o not risk it * get them only from a reputable
company on the internet, from magaBines, or any local coffee shops around
your town=if available>. 0tick with a reputable reliable company. (ou may wish
to buy more than you think you will need due to germination failures.
Not/7 Marijuana s//ds ar/ sti)) i))/!a) in 8an, -arts o6 t"/ $or)dC inc)udin! t"/
Unit/d (tat/s. 5)/as/ c"/c9 )oca) )a$s b/6or/ ord/rin! and a)$a,s us/ a sa6/
addr/ss. N/0/r ord/r t"/ 8arijuana s//ds dir/ct), to ,our !ro$ ar/a.

!lease be careful" Aver the years, I have tried various companies and after
speaking with hundreds of growers as well as investing in countless of hours of
personal research and money to seek them out L test themJ I have determined
the following list to be the current best seed banks in the world. If you are
going to purchase your seeds from a different vendor, please be safe * google
them first in order to make sure they are reliable and no one has been ripped
off in the past, as this happens a lot. .ake sure they are reputable and carry
the most important foundational aspect of your entire grow K a @uality seed.
)s promised, here is my highly recommended list of seed banks with reviews.
The following list of seedbanks are the most reliable today with the greatest
@uality and outstanding selection. They take every precaution to ensure that
your package is delivered in a stealthy, timely, secure manner. These vendors
have been in the seed business for many years and have successfully shipped
countless packages to many satisfied customers worldwide. (ou can find them
recommended on many review sites. 8iscreet packaging and efficient customer
service guarantees these companies will continue to thrive for many years to
come.
41
'or)dKs Gr/at/st (//dban9s
L1. AM(TE2DAM MA2I;UANA (EED(
Top choice * I dare to say these are the best in the world. Incredible strains,
scarily low prices. They hold the reputation as one of the most reliable seed
banks in the world. They carry a huge selection of awesome high
TH+F:eminiBed @uality seeds. (ou also get 1? free seeds with every order"
("i--in!7 $orldwide
L%. BUY DUTC+ (EED(
High @uality dutch cannabis seeds. )ward winning strains that are shipped in
super discrete stealth packaging. They only select their seeds from the best
breeders. +ustomer satisfaction is their number one priority, so they#ve got great
customer support and package tracking options.
("i--in!7 $orldwide
L3. T+E ATTITUDE (EEDBANJ
The )ttitude 0eedbank are e7porters of some of the finest +annabis seeds
available in the world today. They offer hundreds of .ariuana seeds strains to
choose from, e7pertly grown by the pioneers of the legendary )msterdam
42
cannabis seeds banks. ) lot of awesome breeders come together to make some
badass strains for these guys and they only buy from the best breeders in the
world. The genetics of these seeds are breathtaking" ) huge selection of the
finest +annabis +up winners fills their stock. They carry some of the biggest and
most up*to*date, impressive line of feminiBed mariuana seeds from some of the
world#s top breeders L suppliers. )ll of their seeds are purchased fresh, then
kept in a refrigerated room to maintain and ensure there freshness. The )ttitude
always buys the freshest mariuana seeds stock to ensure buyers get an
e7ceptional harvest.
("i--in!7 $orldwide
L4. NI2<ANA (+O5
These guys 'A+E. They have sweet deals going all the time and kickass strains.
The Dirvana 0hop is a seed bank and online seed supplier with many years in
the business under their belt. They have supplied thousands of growers with
@uality seeds over the years. They#ve emerged as the top supplier of medical
mariuana seeds worldwide.
("i--in!7 $orldwide=e7cept for )ustralia>
L.. T+E (EN(I (EEDBANJ
They are the backbone of many coffee shops. 0ensi 0eeds# carry original
cannabis strains that have won many international priBes. .ultiple +annabis
+up*winners such as %ack Herer, Dorthern ;ights, Hig Hud are all strains bred by
the 0ensi 0eeds ;aboratories. They#ve also been in the seed biB for 1?+ years"""
("i--in!7 .ostly &G only, and a few outside countriesJ but attitude carries em#"
43
L.. +EM5 DE5OT
These cats take a longggg time to get you your seeds but they stock some great
seeds from some rare and uni@ue talented breeders. If you do decide to go with
them, then be sure to check out Hlueberry by 8% 0hort... it#s &!I+.
("i--in!7 $orldwide
L6. (JUNJ (EED(
0kunk seeds rule. Their seeds are in constant high demand and they actually
filter out who they ship seeds to K they#ve turned away a lot of people in the
past. If you can get ahold of some of these strains, you wont be disappointed.
They also specialiBe in discrete stealth shipping methods.
("i--in!7 &verywhere e7cept the G0).
44
(torin! (//ds
Typically, mariuana seeds produced by a female plant will be good for about
two years. If kept in a cool, dark place=the ideal storing location> the seeds may
be good for even up to 5 years"
.any growers favor storing seeds in a cold environment for optimal germination
rates. 0ince a seed is a living thing, when it is placed in a cold environment its
life cycle slows down. This slows the seeds natural degradation significantly,
meaning seeds stored in cold environments last longer. The favored seed storing
method among many commercial growers is to get a black film canister=blocks
out the light> and place a small amount of either uncooked rice or looseFbagged
silica crystals in the bottom. These desiccants soak up any surrounding moisture
and humidity. !ut them in either your fridge or freeBer.
Not/7 You can a)so us/ s-/ci6ica)), d/si!n/d s//d /n0/)o-/s so)d at 8ost !ro$
s"o-s or on)in/.
.ake sure to label the containerFenvelopes with strain, @uantity and date
received to make sorting easier.
'emember when storing seeds that incorrect moisture=humidity>, temperature,
and light levels are the number one enemies.
.any growers agree * temperature and humidity are the most important factors
affecting seed @uality during storage=humidity being the more important of
these>. .ariuana seeds absorb moisture from wet atmospheres and dry
out when placed in dry atmospheres. 0eed storage life is doubled for each 6P
decrease in moisture content. The problems of maintaining seed germination
45
increase with seed moisture content.
(//d 8oistur/ abo0/7
/?*9?P * germination occurs.
63*1?P * heating may occur.
61*6/P * fungi grown on and in seed.
3*<P * insects become active and reproduce.
Heating is caused by the natural respiration of cannabis seeds, of fungi and
bacteria in and on the seed which may build up rapidly in a moist
environment. High moisture levels and high temperature will kill cannabis
seeds as @uickly as and invasion of microorganisms and insects.
0tored seed life is doubled for each /6Y:=5Y+> reduction in storage environment
temperature.
'efrigeration to at least /6Y:=5Y+> is recommended=yes, this is slightly warmer
than regular fridges>. The cooler the temperature the more slowly seed vitality
declines. This rule apparently continues to apply even at temperatures below
freeBing. )t /6Y:=5Y+> and below, insects become inactive. &ver see someone
freeBe a fly and then blow warm air on it to heat it up=MreviveN it> and then it
flies awayC ) pretty cool magic trick if ya# ask me.
If the above storing conditions are met, storing cannabis for five years with
high germination success rates is entirely do*able.
47
Cannabis
+annabis plants begin as tiny little sprouts and eventually, toward the end of
their flowering cycle, they fill out into a +hristmas tree*like shape. There are
primarily three parts to a cannabis plant. The top cola, the mid*section, and the
base. The top cola is where a lot of the bud is grown and flowered. The mid*
section contains some bud, stems, and a lot of leaves. The buds in the mid*
section tend to be smaller than top cola buds, but the potency remains the
same caliber. The bottom part of your cannabis plant well contain large fan
leaves and a very tiny amount of bud.
48
5arts o6 t"/ 5)ant
There are many parts that make up a cannabis plant. The entire crop contains
the psychoactive ingredients which include 8elta*< TH+ and various other
cannabinoids that give each plant its own uni@ue profile of properties and
effects. However, not all parts contain them in the same concentrations.
B)o$/rs7 The flowers or Huds of the plant contain the highest concentrations of
plant resin which in turn contains the highest concentration of active
ingredients. The unpollinated flowers of the female plants are the part of the
plant that is used by recreational users because they produce copious amounts
of potent plant resin in order to try to catch pollen from a male plant.
49
.ariuana is one of the few plants today that actually is split by gender and has
distinct separate male and female plants. :emale plants do not pollinate
themselves in the absence of males but do contain the genetic capability to
produce male flowers and may do so under stress. There are also
hermaphrodite plants that produce both male and female flowers. .ale plants
and male flowers are not very potent and are generally not used for recreational
purposes.
50
/a0/s7 $hen leaves are smoked they provide a headache rather than get you
high. There are however ways to e7tract the active ingredients from leaves and
the different types of leaves have different potency levels.
ar!/ ("ad/ /a0/s7 These are the large classically shaped leaves on the
plant and are the least potent. There are e7traction methods that can be
performed to get something useful out of these but the result won#t be very
pure and many growers ust throw them away.
Gro$ Ti-s7 These clusters of small tender leaves are the point on the plant
where new growth sprouts from during vegetation. They are more potent than
shade leaves but less potent than trim leaves or bud.
Tri8 /a0/s7 These are the sugar coated leaves that are trimmed from around
the buds during harvest. The sugar coating of trichomes can make these @uite
potent and they can be as potent as low @uality flowers with seeds.
(t/8s7 The stems are not really useful for psychoactive purposes but they are
a great source of plant fiber for rope, paper, durable clothing, etc.
51
(//ds7 The seeds generally contain only trace amounts of psychoactive
ingredients but they are one of the most nutritious foods currently known to
man. They are one of only a handful of substances that man can sustain off
indefinitely with no other food and provide a complete amino acid profile.
Tric"o8/s7 Trichomes are the oil glands of the plant and contain the highest
concentration of active ingredients of any part of the plant. The flowers are
sought out because they contain the highest concentration of trichomes. Hash is
made from collected and pressed trichomes. Trichomes are very useful for
determining the maturity of a plant during the flowering stage.
2oots7 'oots serve the plant through nutrient uptake. They have no
psychoactive ingredients and aren#t typically eaten.
52
(/4in!
0e7ing is an important aspect of the overall growing process for mariuanaJ
cannabis plants normally come in two se7es, male or female. &ach se7 has its
own very distinct flowers. The female flowers are more potent then the male
flowers. -rowers typically remove and destroy the males from their garden
because of their very low levels of cannabinoids such as TH+ and +H8. Hoth
male and female plants can turn into hermaphrodites.
The reason you will want to se7 your plants right away is so that you can
identify and remove males * it is the flowers of the female that you will want to
cultivate if you are interested in psychoactive effects. $ithout chemical
e7tractions the flower of the female is the only part of the plant that is can be
used for medicinal and recreational use.
53
) female plant that is not pollinated will direct the bulk of its energy later in its
growth phase into developing the flower buds and swelling them with the resin
that carries the bulk of mariuana#s potency. The plant does this so that the
large sticky flowers are more likely to catch pollen.
If the flower is pollinated it will instead direct the bulk of its energy to seed
production. This is where low @uality dirt weed comes from. If you have seedy
pot, it is dirt weed. The more seeds contained in the pot the lower the @uality.
0eeds add dramatically to the weight=they weigh more than the bud itself>, this
is contrasted with stems that are mostly water weight and have a negligible
weight compared to the actual bud.
!lants generally should demonstrate their se7 one to two weeks into flowering.
8uring the first ten days of flowering there is very little need for concern about
males pollinating your crop. )dditionally, if you reproduce by cloning you will
only have to worry about males once.
54
5r/AB)o$/rs
!reflowers, as opposed to full blown flowers, generally appear after the fourth
week of vegetative growth from seed. !re*flowering typically lasts about 6*1
weeks. !re*flowering is the stage in which your plant begins to fill out nicely and
its se7 becomes apparent. )t the start of your plant#s growth you will not know
whether your plant is male or female. )t this time new growth regions begin to
appear and change shape depending on your plant#s se7, which then becomes
obvious to the grower.
!re*flowering begins when your plant#s height stops growing. )lso, looking
closely at your plant reveals small new growths are beginning to form at the
nodes between the stem and the branches. +heck carefully above the fourth
node. These small new growths will become leaves, branches and flowers"
Not/7 5r/6)o$/rs ar/ 0/r, s8a)) and and a)8ost i8-ossib)/ to di66/r/ntiat/
$it"out 8a!ni6ication. A -"oto!ra-"/rKs 1*4 )ou-/ or a 8a!ni6ication )/ns is
"and, $"/n /4a8inin! -r/6)o$/rs.
.any times preflowers will appear at the fourth or fifth node, whereas the plant
is on the 5th or 3th node. These preflowers usually don#t develop into full
flowers, but are only an indicator of the plants se7.
55
!re*flowering is the stage when you cross your fingers for as many females as
possible. It is early in this stage that you can make an accurate guess about
your plant#s se7.
If you plan to move any male plants out of your garden, you will do it a week or
two into this phase. ) male plant will produce little balls that are clustered
together=much like grapes>. The male plant produces these pollen sacks that,
when the time is ust right, will burst and spread pollen to the female plants. )
female plant produces little milky white pistils that look like hairs in a pod. These
hairs=pistils> will begin to curl slightly and grow longer and thicker. These hairs
are also very sticky, but do not touch them as they contain your much valued
TH+" The hairs also will begin to cover in resin during the :lowering period=this
is for catching the male#s falling pollen>. If the female is not pollinated then she
will feel unloved and begin to produce and grow even .A'& sticky TH+*rich
areas all over her flowers... hence the resulting development of a 0insemilla
crop, which means higher @uality frosty incredible buds"
Ma)/ or B/8a)/@
0o mariuana seeds grow into cannabis plants that are either male or female,
but how can you tellC
Ma)/7 .ales can be identified by looking at the inter*nodes where leaf and
branch stems connect with the main stalk. .ales are often, but not always, tall
with stout stems, sporadic branching, and few leaves. $hen a male enters the
stage of flower development, the tips of the branches where a bud would
develop will start to grow what looks like a little bud=little balls> but it will have
no white hairs coming out of it.
.ale flowers will contain balls somewhere between the siBe of a mariuana seed
and a popcorn seed. Ane ball is not definitive since female pistils sometimes
split from a small single ball that opens. Hut two or three balls in a cluster is
sure confirmation that you have a male. .ales should be removed and
destroyed to prevent them from releasing pollen into your garden. The pollen
transports easily so the males can not be safely grown anywhere that shares an
aFc or ventilation system unless special precautions are taken beforehand.
56
The male preflower may be described as a Qball on a stick.Q However, its most
recogniBable feature is its absence of pistils. 0ometimes, a male plant will
develop mature staminate flowers after prolonged periods of vegetative growth.
These appear in clusters around the nodes.
The following image shows a male plant in early flowering. 0taminate flowers
are located at the node between the stipule and emerging branch.
Bi!ur/ 1. Ma)/Msta8inat/N A Cr/dit7 5AYn
57
The male plant will have balls of pollen which in nature produce pollen and
showers L pollinates the receptive hairs of the female plant, which once
pollinated will produce seeds. If the female plant isn#t pollinated=by keeping the
male plants away>, she becomes very annoyed and will begin to continuously
produce thousands and thousands of hairs in the hope to catch male pollen. 0o
the flowersFbuds will continue to grow, develop, and produce lots of rich TH+.
Not/7 B/8a)/ -)ants t"at ar/ -o))inat/d $i)) us/ )i6/ /n/r!, 6or -roducin! s//ds
inst/ad o6 T+C. T"is r/su)ts in )o$/r -ot/nc, 8arijuanaC and "i!" s//d ,i/)ds.
Ma)/ -)ants in !/n/ra) $i)) b/ )/ss -ot/nt and -roduc/ )/ss T+C t"an a 6/8a)/
-)ant.
Bi!ur/ %. Ma)/ a6t/r 1* da,s o6 B)o$/rin!.
58
Bi!ur/ 3. Ma)/ 5r/6)o$/rs. Cr/dit7 5s,coOu)
B/8a)/7 :emale plants produce tear*drop shaped balls called Mcaly7esN at the
nodes between leaf and stem. &ach sprouting two white hairs or, Mpistils.N
)nother identifier is that the female plant#s leaves will grow closer together
forming a strong stem which will hold the clusters of flowers and later the
ripening seed. :emales will have no balls and will have small white hairs.
)s the images below demonstrate, the female preflower is pear shaped and
produces a pair of pistils. :re@uently, the female preflowers do not show pistils
until well after the preflowers have emerged. Thus, don#t yank a plant because
it has no pistils. !istillate preflowers are located at the node between the stipule
and emerging branch.
)lso, some female preflowers never produce pistils. ) female preflower without
pistils is difficult to distinguish from a male preflower. Thus, hermaphodite issues
should not be resolved by the appearance of preflowers, without pistils, on a
plant otherwise believed to be a female.
59
Bi!ur/ 1. B/8a)/M-isti))at/N Cr/dit7 MrIto
60
Bi!ur/ %. B/8a)/ A6t/r 1* Da,s B)o$/rin!. Cr/dit7 O)d5in9
61
+/r8a-"rodit/
) hermaphrodite, or MhermieN, is a plant of one se7 that develops the se7ual
organs of the other se7. .ost commonly, a flowering female plant will develop
staminate flowers, though the reverse is also true. !rimarily male
hermaphrodites are not as well recogniBed only because few growers let their
males reach a point of flowering where the pistillate would be e7pressed.
Hermaphrodites are generally viewed with disfavor. :irst, they will release pollen
and ruin a sinsemellia crop, pollinating themselves and all of the other females
in the room. 0econd, the resulting seeds are worthless, because hermaphrodite
parents tend to pass on the genetic tendency to their offspring.
Not/7 Occasiona)), s-/cious sta8inat/ 6)o$/rs $i)) a--/ar in t"/ )ast da,s o6
6)o$/rin! o6 a 6/8a)/ -)ant. T"/s/ do not dro- -o))/n and t"/ir a--/aranc/ is not
consid/r/d /0id/nc/ o6 "/r8a-"roditis8.
62
The following is an image of a hermaphrodite, or more specificallyJ a female
plant with staminate flowers.
Bi!ur/ 1. +/r8a-"rodit/. Not/ t"/ -r/A6)o$/rs.
63
M/t"ods to D/t/r8in/ (/4
If your plant didnt show any pre*flowers or they showed preflowers but
you want to be really sure what se7 your plants have, you will have to wait for
the real flowers to mature. Indica tends to flower earlier then
0ativa dominant strains. Hy looking at the flowers and identifying males or
females you find out the se7 of the plant. 'emember if the plant has both males
and females flowers its a dreaded hermaphrodite.
It is possible to induce flowering in plants with 61F61, identify the males,
then to re*veg by going to 1/ hr. light. The males will show their se7
within 1 weeks of 61F61. They will then revert to vegetating after a couple
weeks of 1/ hrs. However sending back plants into the vegetative
phase cause unnecessary stress and stretch. Therefore it better to force
flowering on clones. 0ince you are only interested in the se7 and not in the
yield of the clone almost any type of lamp will do. )lso if you are
flowering clones ust to figure out the se7, you do not have to root the
clone, you can ust let it stay in a glass of water.
If you are flowering clones ust to check the se7 you can increase the
period of darkness. This will speed up the flowering process K however
it will also decrease the yield so its not a method to use if youre
seriously interested in the yield.
D/t/r8inin! 5)ant (/4
5)ant +/i!"t H 5r/AB)o$/r Ti8in!7 If your using the same seed strains with
all your plants, it can be a safe assumption to make that the taller plants are
males and the shorter plants are females. )lso note that male plants tend to
begin pre*flowering much earlier than female plants.
Ca),4 M/t"od7 )nother method is to take a magnifying glass or microscope to
the plant#s caly7. If the caly7 is raised on a stem then it is most likely a male
plant. If the caly7 is DAT raised on a stem then it is probably a female plant.
64
Borcin! C)onin!7 This method is a 6??P accurate way of determining your
plant#s se7. Hegin by taking a cutting=two is best, ust in case one dies>, from
each parent plant whose se7 is unknown. It is advisable to somehow place a
label or piece of colored tape on the cuttings to identify sets of clones from their
corresponding parents. De7t give your rooting clones a 61*hour lightFdark
photoperiod. )fter a 61*hour day, place the clones in a completely dark area
=such as placing a bo7 over them>. This will induce flowering. +lones typically
tend to show their se7 within two weeks.
5a-/r Ba! M/t"od7 This is an easy one. To do this, take a piece of a black
plastic garbage bag and be secure it to the end of a branch using twist ties.
)pply the bag so that the branch receives 61 hours of light and 61 hours of
darkness=i.e. on at 9 !... off at 9 )...>. $ithin three weeks you will see the
male plants will have what look like little balls forming on the branch. The
females will have two tiny white hairs emerging from an immature caly7. The
males can now be removed and you are guaranteed a crop of all females.
'emove the plastic from the branch of the female and she will begin growing
again.
65
+ull out all the males=unless you are using them for breeding purposes>. Eeep
the mother growing in vegetative mode under 63*1/ hours of light.
(ta!/s o6 Gro$t"
)s with most plants in nature, mariuana goes through several distinct phases of
growth. It is an annual plant and completes its life cycle in one full season. )
seed that is planted in the spring will grow vigorously through the summer and
flower in the fall, producing more seeds. The new seeds will sprout the ne7t
year, continuing the annual process. The three basic stages of development are
0eedling=also called MgerminationN or Mpre*vegetativeN>, 2egetative, and lastly
:lowering=or MbuddingN>.
66
Marijuana Gro$s In (ta!/s
The order is as followsO
-ermination *Z 0eedling *Z 2egetative *Z !re*:lowering *Z :lowering
G/r8ination
This is what will need to happen to your seeds to get your plant started" 8uring
germination moisture, heat, and air activate hormones within the durable outer
coating of the seeds. 0oon, the seeds outer protective coating will crack and the
root=a tiny white sprout> is pushed downward outside. De7t seed leaves emerge
out from within the shell as they search upward in search of light. 0oon after a
seedling is formed.
(//d)in! 5"as/
)fter 4*3 days of germination, plants will enter into their seedling phase of
growth that lasts about a month. :irst a seed that has been germinated and
sprouted a root, or a clone, is placed in the hydroponic garden=or soil container>
and given food=nutrients> and lighting. )fter this, the plant will form its# root
system, stem and a couple leaves. Typically during this seedling phase time the
plants are given 69*63 hours of light each day to ensure strong healthy growth.
The seedling growth stage lasts for about two to three weeks after seeds have
germinated.
67
</!/tati0/ Gro$t"
)fter seedlings have established a strong root system and foliage growth
increases rapidly, your plants enter what is known as the vegetative growth
phase. This begins the moment a seedling or clone takes root and ends as soon
as the plant is ready to mature and produce buds.
8uring this phase of growth your plant will begin to @uickly develop and begin
growing thick branches, stems, and start producing leaves. )s long as plenty of
sufficient light, nutrients, +A1, water and other optimal environmental
conditions are met you can e7pect your plant to grow from T K 1 inches per
day" This is also the stage in which the plant#s root system strengthens and
matures. The stem also grows thicker. It#s cool to see your plant begin to look
like a real mariuana plant" This is the stage where this happens. &ffects you will
observe is a thicker stem L branches, and more fingers forming on the leaves.
68
) very key biological process known as !hotosynthesis will begin to occur during
the 2egetative -rowth !hase. This begins once the leaves grow and e7pand.
+hlorophyll converts +A1 from the air, light energy, and water into carbohydrate
food and o7ygen. In order for this process to occur, leaves must be kept moist.
0tomata=tiny breathing pores located on the underside of the leaf> open and
close to regulate moisture preventing dehydration. The stomata also allows
waste and water flow to flow outwards. Eeep your plant#s stomata clean" This
means no dust or nasty buildup, your plant#s need to breath in order to
ma7imiBe photosynthesis and other critical growth enhancing processes.
8uring vegetative growth the plant will be photosynthesiBing as much as
possible to grow tall and start many grow tips at each pair of leaves. ) grow tip
is the part that can be cloned or propagated ase7ually. They are located at the
top of the plant, and at ever maor internode. If you MtopN the plant, then it has
two grow tips at the top. If you top each of these, you will have / grow tips at
the top of the plant=since it takes time for the plant to heal and recover from
the trauma of being pruned, it is faster to grow / smaller plants and not top
them at all. Ar grow 1 plants, and MtrainN them to fill the same space>.
The key to a strong vigorous vegetative growth phase that will reap a heavy,
69
sparkling rich harvest is to supply the roots and plants with the perfect
flourishing growth supportive environment.
The adult life cycle of the mariuana plant consists of two stages of growth.
2egetative and :lowering. The plant determines which of these stages of growth
it should be in through the presence of a flowering hormone which is sensitive
to light. )s long as light levels above 61*6/hrs are maintained the flowering
hormone will never be present in high enough levels to induce flowering in the
plant. )t any point during the plants life if the light is on for more than 61hrs a
day it will cause the levels of flowering hormone to be reduced and the plant
to revert to the vegetative growth stage. If a plant is reverted during flowering
by irregular light patterns it can cause stress in the plant and stress can cause
hermaphroditism.
!lants can stay in the vegetative stage indefinitely with no adverse effects. In
other words, you have full control of how tall they will grow. )s long as the
photo period of 69 hours or more light is maintained, mariuana plants will
remain in vegetative growth theoretically forever K it us up to the grower to
decide when to force the plant to flower. ) plant can grow from 61N to 61 feet
before being forced to flower. The hydroponic growth phase usually lasts / to 3
weeks.
i!"tin!
In this vegetative growth stage the plants will receive light 63 to 1/ hours per
day. In this stage your plant will need as much light as it can get, leave your
light on for 69*1/ hours and enoy watching your beautiful cannabis plant grow
fast and vigourously" 8uring this stage you are going to want to start with your
light about 1? inches or more above the top of your plant, and then each day
lower the light about an inch or more until you feel the height is ust right.
'A2NING7 I6 t"/ )i!"t is too )o$ it $i)) dr, out t"/ -)ants and turn
t"/8 bro$n. I6 t"/ )i!"t is too "i!" t"/ -)ants $i)) !ro$ too ta))
b/caus/ t"/, str/tc" tr,in! to !/t c)os/r to t"/ir )i!"t sourc/.
70
Eeep lights on continuously for your vegetating sprouts, since they re@uire no
darkness period like older plants. (ou will not need a timer unless you want to
keep the lamps off during a certain time each day. It is possible to grow plants
with no dark period, and increase the speed at which they grow by 4?P. Try to
light the plants for 63 or more hours, or continuously at this point. )s long as
the plants receive 69*1/ hours of light, they will remain indefinitely in this
vegetative stage.
Ane heavily debated issue among growers is whether the dark period is needed
during vegetative growth. There are various mythical claims that a darkness
period is needed but there is absolutely no strong evidence to support this.
&7perienced weed growers agree * e7tremely healthy and potent mariuana is
grown under 1/hr vegetative light. $hat is in dispute is whether the e7tra light
hours bring a great deal of benefit compared with 63hr light.
)lso, you can start off your vegetative stage with a fluorescent light. The reason
you would want to do this is to not give the plants e7cessive light at the
beginning of the growing process. )llow them to build up to it as they would in
nature where the seeds would germinate in spring when the sun is not as
strong as it will be in summer.
'at/rin!
$atering properly is also a key element during vegetative growth to ensure a
healthy grow and a bountiful harvest. )s the plant gets bigger, so does its root
system. This means the soilFgrow medium will dry out faster as more water is
being used up. !ay close attention to your plants and keep them hydrated"
B//din!
In this stage water and nutrients will be used more @uickly. Including high levels
of nitrogen. )lso potassium, phosphorus, sulfur, magnesium, calcium, and other
trace elements are needed as they are used at much faster rates.
8uring vegetative growth you will want to use a fertiliBer that is high in nitrogen
at full strength. Ditrogen is used by the plant to grow stems, leaves, and other
71
green parts and so is absolutely essential during the vegetative phase of
growth. )s always you should begin with the manufacturers suggestions for the
period of growth you are in when adding fertiliBer and then adust up or down
based on how your plants respond.
This is the stage where it is common for newer growers to add too many
nutrients or screw up their plant#s pH level. )lways carefully check pH before
adusting nutrients to fi7 a problem.
)t this time, a solution of 1?*1?*1? with trace minerals is used for both
hydroponic and soil gardening when growing continuously under lights. .iracle
-row !atio or 'apid-row plant food is ideal for this. &psom salts=6tsp> should
be used in the solution for magnesium and sulfur minerals. Trace minerals are
needed also, that is, if your food does not include them. .iracle -row !atio
includes these trace elements, and is recommended if it is available in your
area. )ny fertiliBer with the proper ratio will be fine during vegetative growth.
5r/AB)o$/rin!
)s you recall, the plant#s se7 becomes apparent during pre*flowering. The se7 of
the plant also becomes very apparent.
The goal of many modern growers is to select strong, healthy potent female
plants as mothers. These mother plants are given a continuous 63*1/ hours of
light so that they are forced to stay in the vegetative growth stage. -rowers
then cut branch tips and root them, these cuttings are known as MclonesN.
0electing a strong healthy MHonsai .otherN plant is the key for having access to
a constant fresh supply of all*female genetically uniform clones.
>C"/c9 out t"/ C)onin! c"a-t/r 6or 8or/ in6or8ation.?
72
'"/n to start B)o$/rin!@
Ance you are in the !re*:lowering stage you have a very critical decision to
make. 8o you want to start :lowering now, or continue 2egetative -rowthC
+onsider this before you make your decisionJ the amount of bud your plants will
produce is not e@ual to your plant#s height. (our plant#s ma7imum bud
production is caused by the following main factorsO
)> (our plant#s growing environment.
H> The number of nodes your plant has.
+> (our strain#s genetic threshold for bud production.
The @uality of the buds is not time dependent, nor is it a factor of the siBe of the
plant. Huds maturing on two clones from the same plant, one newly rooted and
the other a large plant growing vegetatively for three months, will produce
e@ual @uality buds. Gltimately, the decision is yours. :igure out how big you
want the plant to be when it#s ripe. The smaller the plant is when it is forced to
flower, the smaller the bud will be at ripening.
It#s totally possible to get more bud with a lot of plants which are flowered as
soon as they are mature. This also helps keep the plants shorter and smaller.
This can be done rather than e7tending vegetative growth with the smaller
plants until they reach their ma7imum height and siBe. The time frame for the
smaller plant option may also produce more bud turnover per annum.
Dow that you understand this, you can choose to either flower now or choose to
keep your plant growing until it reaches it#s ma7imum siBe threshold before you
decide to start :lowering. (our plant will need to have reached a level of
maturity where it is producing alternating nodes. If grown from seed this will
usually occur a few weeks into vegetative growth.
73
(ou can begin flowering when your plants have reached a minimum of 9 inches
in height, )D8 have at least / sets of leaves. 8epending on certain factors, this
typically takes around 1 weeks to a month of vegetative growth in most
hydroponic gardens. +lones taken from a mature plant will be se7ually mature
upon rooting and can be flowered immediately.
Not/7 I6 ,ou d/cid/ to 6)o$/r no$C 8a9/ sur/ ,ou "a0/ -)/nt, o6 roo8 6or ,our
-)ant b/caus/ durin! B)o$/rin! 8ost (ati0aAdo8inant strains DOUBE in bot"
"/i!"t and $idt"1 Durin! t"/ 6)o$/rin! sta!/ a -)ant 8a, !ro$ b/t$//n % and
% P ti8/s t"/ si=/ it ac"i/0/d in 0/!/tation. 5)an accordin!),.
B)o$/rin!
:lowering is the most e7citing stage of growing mariuana. This is the phase of
growth that produces the most TH+ =the active ingredient that produces the
high> Ance :lowering begins, your plants height will slow drastically, do not be
alarmed as this is completely normal. The reason this happens is because the
plants are beginning to use their energy for the flowering itself. Dearly all the
TH+ is produced during the flowering stage. Indica dominant strains will flower
faster than 0ativa varieties.
74
Bi!ur/ 1. B/8a)/ A B/$ '//9s Into B)o$/rin!.
>Notic/ t"/ )on! $"it/ "airs.?
:or the ne7t two to four weeks after :lowering has started the height of the
plant should continue to increase, after that all the plants energy will then be
used for flower production.
The final stage of :lowering is also known asMbuddingN. This is the most e7citing
stage in which the plant fills out even more and the flowers continue to grow.
!lants cease to develop any additional shoots or growth, and overall siBe will
slow. They will now begin redirect their overall energy for bud production. )n
ideal female will grow short, s@uat, and bushy with branches close on their stem
with dense foliage and buds.
&ventually the female plant reaches a peak period of :lowering. )t this time
your plant will begin to fill out more with more leaves, branches and flowers, as
well as begin to take on the shape of a +hristmas tree. 8uring this peak period
the female pistils=hairs> tips will swell up, as well as begin to change color. In
most cases =and this is touched on later> they will change from a white tint to
an orange tint to a red tint to a brown tint. )ll strains are different but this is
what will generally tend to be the case. If you have access to the breeder#s
recommended flowering times then all the better. Ance the plant does this you
are ready to harvest her and sample your tasty new herb.
75
Eeep in mind each strain has it#s own specific flowering time and each strain
may have a different color tint when they reach their flowering peak. ) great
time to begin flowering=by initiating the 61F61 light cycle> is when your plant
reaches half the siBe you want it to be. Eeep pruning to a minimum during the
entire :lowering phase.
:lowering plants should not be sprayed often as this will promote mold and rot.
Eeep humidity levels down indoors when flowering, as this is the most delicate
and important time for your plants.
76
B//din!
:lowering plants need very high !=!hosphorus> level foods, such as 5*5?*65, but
6?*1?*6? will suffice. Dutrients should be provided with each watering when
first flowering. )lso, fertiliBing should be minimiBed or cut down to 6F/ strength.
.ariuana uses large amounts of phosphorus during flowering so 5*5?*65 should
be used at 6F/ strength.
Trace elements are essential too. Try to find foods that include these, so you
dont have to use a separate trace element food. .any nurseries sell trace
element solutions rich in iron for lawn deficiencies, and these can be adapted
for use in cultivating the sweet green herb. !rices for these mass produced
fertiliBers are significantly cheaper than the specialiBed hydroponic fertiliBers sold
in indoor gardening shops, and seem to work e@ually as well.
0ome growers believe that it is important to begin using flowering nutrients 6*1
weeks before switching over the light for flowering=61F61 photoperiod>. Athers
begin flowering nutrients when as soon as they switch the light.
8on#t spray with bug spray during flowering or you will taste it in the smoke.
)nother important thing to look for during flowering is yellowing leaves.
!articularly towards the end of flowering plants will begin robbing nutrients from
their leaves. This is perfectly normal and nothing to be alarmed about. (ou do
not need to make an effort to remove the leaves unless they are brown and
dead.
77
(u--)/8/nts
There are a plethora of supplements on the market and no attempt will be
made here to list them all at this time but there are a few general types that
most flowering supplements fall into that can be addressed hereO
(u!ar su--)/8/nts suc" as s$//tC 8o)ass/sC /tc * This type of
supplement does DAT feed the plant directly. !lants can not utiliBe
already processed sugars like this. $hat this does do is nourish
organisms living in the grow medium. If you are using an organic grow
process or growing in soil this can be very beneficial but should be
stopped during the flush period.
+or8on/ (u--)/8/nts * Daturally the effects depend on the
hormone but all in all these are beneficial but e7pensive. !lant growth
hormone e7tracted from algae is helpful but provides far more benefit
during the vegetative grow cycle than the flowering cycle. !lant
flowering hormones are beneficial during flowering, largely for creating
more flowering sites than without. )ll hormone supplements tend to be
very e7pensive which limits their practical utility.
Tast/ /n"anc/rs * There are products with citrus and other flavors
that claim if you feed them to plants the plants will take on some aspect
of their flavor. This is generally reported to be false.
Ca)ciu8:Ma!n/siu8 (u--)/8/nts * These are very useful for
balancing out your nutrient mi7, this underrated nutrients are important
for plant growth. The use of a supplement like this is highly
recommended for all phases of growth.
Nutri/nt su--)/8/nts * 0ome boosters are simply more flowering
nutrient. How well they work depends on how ideal the mi7 you are
using is already.
78
1%:1% i!"tin! (c"/du)/ 6or Initiatin! B)o$/rin!
In nature sooner or later the mariuana plants will enter :lowering once the
days become shorter. This happens outdoors in nature in the wild in the fall.
This signals to the plants that their annual life cycle is coming to an end. )t this
stage the flowers of the female plants would normally become pollinated by a
male plant, but if left unpollinated the females will become annoyed and grow
rich amounts of cannabinoids such as TH+, without seeds=if a female plant is
fertiliBed with male pollen, it will grow a seed>. $ithout seeds, all the plant#s
energy and resources are used to make big resinous buds. This is called a
0insemilla crop. $hen growing indoors we must force this to happen by giving
our plants 61 hours of uninterrupted total darkness.
0o once you decide to begin :lowering=you should be e7cited"> it is time to put
your plants on a 61 hours on and 61 hours off per 1/ hour period lighting
schedule. The actual time varies from plant to plant but a guideline is 61 hours
light and 61 hours dark. The theory behind 61F61 lighting timing is simple. In
nature, cannabis plants in the wild begin flowering in the later :allFearly $inter
months. 8uring this time the days=daylight> gets shorter and the nights=total
darkness> gets longer. )s you guessed, the plants are under 61 hours of light
and 61 hours of darkness.
Not/7 T"/ abo0/ )i!"tin! 6i!ur/ is 6or 8ost co88/rcia) 0ari/ti/s o6 cannabis.
5)ants t"at d/0/)o- in tro-ica) c)i8at/s o6t/n start 6)o$/rin! und/r 8or/ )i!"t and
)/ss dar9n/ss.
$hen this specific lighting combination occurs the plants will undergo a internal
chemical process that naturally stimulates them to flower. )s long as the 61F61
light cycle continues, the plant will grow big and produce an abundance of
frosty flowers. )s a grower this is your intention, to produce as many TH+ rich
bud flowers as possible. In order to accomplish this you must follow the 61F61
lighting cycle K 61 hours light on, 61 hours light off=complete darkness>.
0tart this lighting cycle during !re*:lowering to stimulate your plant to begin
:lowering. Hut make sure you only switch to a 61F61 lighting cycle when pre*
flower signals are shown. If you do this too early, your plant may encounter se7*
related stress problems and become a Hermaphrodite" Dot cool. $hat early
79
Mforcing floweringN before they are ready does is create a condition called Mself*
pollinationN where the plant thinks it#s chances of reproduction are slim to none.
It will produce both male and female flowers on the same plant. The male
flowers then pollinate the female flowers which will eventually produce seeds.
The plant is shocked into thinking it missed it#s time to receive pollen, so the
above process gets triggered as a last ditch effort to receive pollen. =8uring the
natural growth cycle male plants release their pollen around the time female
plants begin to flower>.
Having pollen floating around in your grow room from a hermaphrodite plant
will also spoil your other plants=and breeding proects"> 0o only go to a 61F61
light cycle when your plant is properly !re*:lowering.
)dditionally, 64 hours light, 66 dark may increase flower siBe while still allowing
the plant to go into the flowering mode. Gse longer dark periods to speed
maturity toward the end of the flowering cycle if speed is of the essence. =3*6?
days> but be warned as his will reduce total yield.
Co8-)/t/ Dar9n/ss
$hen light within a certain spectrum hits the surface of the plants chlorophyll
receptors, it prompts a hormone called florigen to be produced. )nother
hormone named antiflorigen is also produced at this time by flowering plants.
The ratio between these two hormones is what causes a plant to flower or not.
In the plants leaves, another chemical e7ists named phytochrome that is
necessary to react with florigen to produce flowers. $hen the phytochrome
within the leaves of a plant receive a duration of light that would be considered
Qshort day lightQ by that e7act plant, then the antiflorigen is repressed and the
florigen is increased, thus causing the plant to start flowering.
If the duration of light of correct spectrum and intensity is interrupted from a
Qshort dayQ, anywhere within the Qdark cycleQ, it causes the plant to again start
producing antiflorigen. The ratio between the florigen and antiflorigen is altered
and flowering will decrease or stop.
80
This switch between ratios of florigen and antiflorigen is stressful to the plant
and can cause a se7ual reversal from female to male or male to female, and
greatly stunt growth.
Hermaphrodites form in response to this florigenFantiflorigen ratio alteration.
If you take all of this information and relate it to each of your plants, you#ll see
that in regards to light interrupting a darkness cycle, many factors come into
play. Hrief interruptions of low intensity may not be sufficient to cause the
florigenFantiflorigen ratio to change enough to change the plants flowering in
any visible way. It can however, cause a slowing of flower growth.
He careful if you visit your garden at night. )ny light, even that from a weak
flashlight will disrupt the hormone that induces flowering and the plants will
revert back to vegetative growth. If you must visit at night don#t use any light,
or better, visit during the day.
Not/7 A !r//n )i!"t can b/ us/d to $or9 on t"/ !ard/n durin! t"/ dar9 -/riod $it"
no n/!ati0/ r/actions 6ro8 t"/ -)ants. T"/s/ ar/ so)d as nurs/r, sa6/t, )i!"tsC but
an, !r//n bu)b s"ou)d b/ OJ. It is b/st to 9//- t"/ dar9 "ours a ti8/ $"/n ,ou
$ou)d nor8a)), not $is" to 0isit t"/ !ard/n. IKd sti)) b/ a bit $ar, t"ou!".
The best way to not affect this ratio of florigenFantiflorigen is to leave the
flowering room completely dark for the entire darkness cycle. This makes it
foolproof. 8uring the 61 off cycle, make sure the plants are kept in complete
darkness. )ny light of sufficient strength to be QseenQ by the phytochrome
receptors in the leaf will have an effect on the flowering.
0o go in there at night and make sure no light is visible. ) desk light across the
room will result in continued vegetative growth and will stop your plants from
flowering properly. &ven small ;&8s can upset this process. (our grow area
must be completely sealed so that is is light*proof. Ane effective way to do this
is use thick black screening=used in photography dark rooms found in most
hardware or fabric stores>, a thick black cloth, or even a black opa@ue plastic
can be used sealing up all light*entry points. -o in there at night and make sure
your plants are in +A.!;&T& and TAT); darkness.
81
Quic9 B)o$/rin!
(ou can make the plants mature in 49 days if you are in a hurry. This can be
done by cutting back on the light to about 6/ hours, but the plants will not be
as big. (ou should gradually shorten the light cycle until you reach 6/ hours.
(ou can force the plant to flower @uicker by ma7imiBing the length of the dark
period. Try 63 hours of darkness and 9 hours of light. ;ower temperature during
the dark period, preferably under 5<Y:=65Y+>. The harvest will however be
lower and with reduced @uality. )pply ethylene will @uicken the ripening even
further.
(//ds
:lowering is the stage in which the female plant will produce seeds if she has
received viable pollen from a male plant. The seeds grow within the female bud
and can take anywhere between 1 weeks to 69 weeks, to grow to full maturity.
The female pistils may change color before finally bursting the seedpods,
sending them to the soil below. =Hreeders like to collect their seed before the
seedpods burst.>
82
B)o$/rin! Ti8/)in/
:emale mariuana goes through several stages once it begins flowering. :irst a
few flowers will appear. Then new flowers develop around the first ones.
:lowers also form at each leaf node along the branches and main stem, the bud
then begins to fill out so that the cluster becomes thick with pistils reaching out
for pollen. They will look fresh and moist. %ust as soon as it looks like it is
finished, a new wave of flower growth appears, usually in a relatively bare spot.
Dew flowers may appear for weeks" De7t the flowers close and the caly7es
start to swellJ this is a false seed pod because the flowers have not been
fertiliBed. These pods will be totally covered with resin glands. )t maturity the
glands will be sparkly with resin in bright light. The individual glands will appear
clear under magnification. )s a rule plants re@uire about 3*61 weeks of
flowering to produce ripe buds.
It should be noted that this is ust a general average guideline. There are wide
variations from this, some strains will move faster and other much more slowly.
In some cases that wait is worthwhile and in others it is notO
1A% '//9s * 8uring this time your plants will be changing over to their
flowering period. It is generally during this time that the first evidence of
flowers will appear.
%A4 '//9s * 8uring this time the plants will begin to stretch for the
light. :lowers will appear at all the nodes but they will be light and airy
no matter what you have done.
.H '//9s * 8uring this period you will likely see lots of yellowing on
leaves and if you have done everything else right you will see the buds
fill in and thicken substantially.
ast % '//9s * 8uring the last 6*1 weeks of your plants life you will
want to water it with clean water and feed it no nutrients.
B/6or/ T"/ ast R%"rs * Here you will want to flush the grow medium
thoroughly.
83
Durin! T"/ ast %4A4#"rs * (ou should shut off the lights =TH+ is
light sensitive and the plants will be utiliBing sugars already produced by
photosynthesis during this period>. Averall this will increase taste and
potency by flushing the plant of fertiliBers and sugars which simply don#t
taste good when burned.
0o depending on the type of seed, the flowering cycle will usually last you
appro7imately 1 months, sometimes longer. 0o the total average length of time
from germinating to harvest will be around [4 months.
Not/7 T"is can b/ s"ort/n/d /0/n )/ss b, usin! t$o !ro$in! ar/asC on/ 6or t"/
6irst sta!/s o6 )i6/ and anot"/r strict), 6or 6)o$/rin!. At t"/ /nd o6 6)o$/rin!C
8arijuana -)ants ar/ "ar0/st/d t"/n s/t to air dr,.
85
T"/ i!"tin! (,st/8
.ariuana plants love light, and )ots of it.
;ighting is one of, if not the most essential ingredient needed for a @uick, high*
yielding crop. (our lights may very well be your single greatest e7pense, but
very well worth the investment. .a7imiBing light distribution to your plants will
enhance photosynthesis tremendously. !hotosynthesis is the process by which
carbon dio7ide and water are turned into sugary plant food and o7ygen. 0o the
more light your plants receive, the faster and bigger they grow.
There are many lighting systems available out there today, a complete one will
haveJ a bulb, reflector, ballast, timer, and electrical inputsFoutputs. .ariuana
lighting systems allow you to emulate the sunlight outdoors for indoor growing
as well as completely control and e7tend the natural Mgrowing seasonN and
manipulate it at will to affect plant hormones.
86
$hen growing indoors, artificial lights produce bigger flowers=bigger bud> than
natural sunlight from a windowsill. (ou will yield way more TH+ @uantity with
artificial lighting than you ever could with window*light grown mariuana.
Not/7 (un)i!"t is t"/ sin!)/ b/st sourc/ o6 )i!"t 6or !ro$in!C but 6or 8ost !ro$/rs
t"is is not an o-tion and indoor )i!"tin! is
us/d as a !r/at r/-)ac/8/nt.
Natura) (un)i!"t C,c)/
In nature, the cannabis plant#s life cycle is one
year long. ) seed planted in the spring will
grow strong and tall through the summer, and
flower in the fall. The annual cycle then will
start all over again when the seeds sprout the
following year.
)lright time for a lesson in light. The sun emits
rays of color energy on a spectrum
=Highschool science class anyoneC>
)s far as mariuana plants go, due to the
natural growth cycle of plants on our planet
the sun tends to emit more blue
spectrum=growth enhancing> ray energy
during the summer. )lso general plantation
growth is typically better this time of year due to longer days, hence more
sunlight e7posure.>
In the late summer*fall, when plants produce flowers, there is more red
spectrum energy rays. The change in light =and shorter days> cause hormones
in plants to increase flower production=pollen sacks in males, TH+ sticky resin in
females if left unpollinated>.
87
Basics About i!"t
The color of a light source is an important decision in determining the right light
source for your garden. The advantage of .etal Halide lamps is that they
provide high*@uality, crisp white light in a variety of different color temperatures
that meet the needs of many different growers.
Corr/)at/d Co)or T/8-/ratur/>CCT?7 The first factor in choosing a color of
lamp is to determine whether you need a warm or cool light source. The ++T,
e7pressed in Eelvin degrees, relates to actual thermal temperature. If you#ve
ever seen a piece of metal being heated, you know that as the metal gets
hotter, it#s color changes. The ++T rating of HI8 and flourescent light sources
indicate how warm or cool the light source is. :or instance a lamp with a ++T
of 15?? Eelvin is considered warmJ with a ++T of /1?? Eelvin is considered
neutralJ and one of 9??? Eelvin is considered cool.
88
(-/ctra) En/r!, Distribution7 $hen you look at a light source, you perceive
seeing a single color, but you are actually seeing thousands of hues. The
combinations of different wavelengths of light make up the color we see. The
relative intensity of the various wavelengths are used to determine a light
source#s +olor 'endering Inde7=+'I>.
Co)or 2/nd/rin! Ind/4>C2I?7 The +'I is an indication of a lamps ability to
show individual colors relative to a standard. This value is determined from a
comparison of the lamp#s spectral distribution compared to a black body at the
same color temperature. ;ight sources, such as metal halide lamps, are rated
with a ++TJ however, ++T does not provide any information on the @uality of the
color. :or this reason, a +'I is also necessary. In general, the higher the +'I
rating of a lamp, the better the different colors will show.
.J A RJ J/)0in7 0trong Hlue ;ight.
!romotes bushy growth. Ideal for rapid
growth phase of plants. This greatly
enhances all*around plant growth when
used with super high output, =such as
high pressure sodium or 4E warm metal
halide lamps>.
4.%J A 4%** J/)0in7 +ool $hite
:lourescents. +an be used as supplemental
blue lighting when used with a 4E source.
4J A 4*** J/)0in7 Deutral .etal Halide.
Hest single source for plant growth,
producing shorter, bushier growth than
45?? Eelvin and color rendition. Gsed in
general plant lighting.
3.RJ A 3R** J/)0in7 0ofter .etal Halide=coated>. This coated lamp is used in
general plant lighting and for more rapid growth than /??? Eelvin produces.
89
3J A 3%** J/)0in7 $arm .etal Halide. Highest photosynthetically active
radiation =!)'> value of all HI8 lighting for all phases of plant growth. !)'
watts account for the nutritional value of light and are a direct measure of the
light energy available for photosythesis.
%.RJ A %R** J/)0in7 High !ressure 0odium ;amps. 'edder color mi7, used for
propagation, blooming, supplemental greenhouse lighting.
'atta!/
The first thing to look for before deciding upon and buying a lamp is its
wattage. ) lamps wattage is the number of electricity it uses, thus how bright it
will be. ) common household light usually is about 55 watts. -rowers commonly
use 15?, /??, 9??, and 6???watt high intensity discharge=HI8> lamps. The
more light you provide, the more your plants will grow and produce. The power
consumption of these lights mimics what an air conditioner, large refrigerator or
other maor appliance might add to an electric bill. In the Gnited 0tates if more
than 65??watts are used it is a signal for an investigation.
If you run your light for 1/ hours a day then be sure to replace it after 9 months
of use. If ran for 63 hours a day, then replace after < months. If on for 61 hours
a day then replacing it after 61 months is perfect.
u8/ns
;umens is a measurement of how much light per s@uare foot is emitted by your
bulb. ;umens are determined by the actual design of the light, not the wattage.
.anufacturers will almost always provide lumen specifications for the bulb.
Typically a high number of lumens e@uates to a high @uality light.
Dever go any less than 1,5?? lumens=even if you#re only growing one plant"> To
ensure ma7imum light e7posure to produce big dank frosty buds, you must hit
)T ;&)0T the /5,??? mark. This is enough to abundantly supply light to a 474
foot grow area, which will hold 9 K < plants. The idea here is to utiliBe as much
of the light as possible. (ou should have enough light to provide 1?*5? watts
for every s@uare foot of your grow area, the more light the better.
90
The number of plants in the list below is an appro7imation of the ma7imum
number you can grow with various wattage mh or hps grow light systemsO
%.* $atts7 will cover 5*61 s@uare feet=a 1.571.5 ft. grow area>. [5
plants or less.
4** $atts7 will cover 3*1? s@uare feet=a /7/ ft. grow area>. [64 plants
or less.
6** $atts7 will cover 61*4? s@uare feet=) 575 ft. grow area>. [6<
plants or less.
1*** $atts7 will cover 1?*5? s@uare feet=9.5 7 9.5 ft. grow area>. [41
plants or less.
These numbers assume you have a good reflector around your bulb and also
reflective wall coverings. (ou can increase the figures a bit if using multiple
bulbs, due to their overlapping effect. (ou can also increase coverage using a
light mover. Gse at least /?=5? is ideal> watts per s@. foot of grow space.
)ppro7imate lumen output for HI8sO
$atts .etal Halide High !ressure 0odium
15?
/??
9??
6???
1?,???
41,???
/5,???
66?,???
41???
/?,???
35,???
6/?,???
0ome lights may be more efficient than others. 8ivide a light#s lumens by watts
to get its lumen per watt ratio. This will allow you to compare the efficiency of
lights to different wattages.
91
i!"t (ourc/s
There are many different types of lighting sources you can use for lighting up
your indoor cannabis plants. Hut which one is the ideal for youC
B)uor/sc/nt i!"tin!
If you are planning on not growing full flowering cannabis plants, then
fluorescent lighting is for you. 8on#t use incandescent lamps for growing
mariuana. $ithin the last few years the large light manufacturers have come
out with an incandescent light made especially for use in growing plants. &ven
though they are superior to the standard incandescent light we use in our
homes, they can#t yield the results obtained with a fluorescent lamp. The light
emitted from an incandescent lamp is in the red side of the light spectrum, but
is very low in the blue. These can however be used for early stages of cuttings.
:luorescent or ;&8 grow lights are good for the seedlingFvegetative stages of
growth, but they will not produce as big of a harvest as metal halide=.H> or
high pressure sodium=H!0> grow lights during flowering. It will also take much
more time for the plant to mature. If you compare their lumen=brightness> per
unit of energy consumed, .etal Halides will produce up to 615 lumens per watt
compared to 4< lumens per watt with fluorescent lights and 63 lumens per watt
for standard incandescent bulbs. 8ue to the low output, fluorescent lights are a
poor light source for flowering and budding.
92
Dever buy special grow fluorescent light such as growlu7, they do not
produce enough lumen. Gse normal full spectrum fluorescent lamps.
:luorescent are good because they don#t generate that much heatJ high
pressure sodium=H!0> isn#t that good in that aspect. :luorescents can be a bad
choice because they do not have good light penetrationJ high pressure
sodium=H!0> lights are much better in this regard. )lways pay attention to
the spectrum of the lampO cool whiteFday light have a more light in the
blue spectrum and warm whiteFsoft white have more light in the red
spectrum. (ou must combine those for the plant to have a healthy
growth and flowering.
If you are going to use :luorescent lighting then set it up as followsJ
:igure about one plant per two feet of fluorescent tube. :luorescent light
sources should be an average of 9*3 inches from the top of the plant. They may
be mounted on a rack and moved every few days as the plants grow.
!lease steer clear of shady fluorescent and ;&8 grow light dealers that claim
their lights will preform as good as mh or hps lights. This is complete bullshit.
0ome ;&8 can models come close, but unless you#re planning on spending over
X6??? on an ;&8 or :lourescent grow light system, then they don#t come close
to the @uality of a mh or hps at all. ) good /?? watt mh or hps grow light can
be purchased for well under X/??.
93
Co8-act B)uor/sc/nt i!"tin! >CB?
) +ompact :luorescent ;ight is a type of fluorescent that was originally designed
to replace the standard &19 &dison Incandescent ;amp. The reason being, +:;s
will put out the same amount of visible light using much less power and a
significantly longer rated life span. &ven though the price of the +:;s is higher
than Incandescent bulbs, they are generally rated to run anywhere from 3,???
to 65,??? hours. There many advantages of using +:;s. .aybe you are growing
personal smoke, or you cant aff ord a HI8 system, or a HI8 system ust isnt
practical.
:or some, HI8 lights arent available in their area. However, +:;s are sold
almost anywhere. +:;s are in general a much cheaper growing solution, and
their ust plain simple to use self*ballasted and it screws into a regular light
socket. Im DAT saying +:;s are better for growing than HI8Rs, but in some
cases its the only thing that will work.
94
CB 'atta!/7 Dormally light manufacturers that make +:;s will put two
numbers on the bo7 your +:; comes in. Ane is )ctual $attage and one is the
Incandescent &@ual. )s you can see here on this +:; the )ctual $attage is
14 $atts, and its Incandescent &@ual is 6?? $att s. Totally ignore the
Incandescent &@ual and pay attention only to the )ctual $attage of the Hulb.
Co)or T/8-/ratur/7 (ou might see a lot of
different labels when shopping at the store
for +:;s. ;abels including 0oft $hite, $arm
$hite, +ool $hite, Hright $hite, Halogen $hite,
8aylight $hite, :ull 0pectrum. )nd also labels
like 15??E, 4???E, 45??E, /???E, 5???E, 9/??E,
and 95??E. These are all the color temperature
of the light you are using. This is a measure of
how warm or cool the light given off by a lamp
appears, with warmer colors having a yellowish
tinge and cooler colors being tinged with
blue. $hat confuses some people is that the
warmer a color is, the colder its color
temperature is. =e7. $arm $hite U 15??E>.
Hulbs ranging in the 15??E*4???E spectrum are
usually labeled $arm $hite or 0oft $hite, bulbs
ranging in the 45??E K /???E spectrum are
bright white or cool white, 5???E is labeled
:ull 0pectrum, and finally 9/??E K 95??E is
labeled 8aylight. (ou can grow an entire crop with +:;s if you chose the right
spectrum of bulbs. :or 2egetation you will want to use 95??E or 5???E, and
when you flower you will want to switch to 15??E or 4???E.
The reason being, throughout the year the plants outside receive more 95??E
light because the days in summer are long and hot and as )utumnF$inter gets
closer the day gets shorter, and gradually receives less 95??E light and more
15??E light as the plant flowers. 8o what you can to avoid bulbs within that
45??E K /???E because they emit very little light that Is useful to your plant.
Dotice in the photo the difference between the color temperature of these
lamps.
95
+o$ To Us/ CBSs7 In order to efficiently use +:;s for growing .ariuana you
will need to position the lights around 1 K / inches from the foliage of the plant.
If you place the light too close, then your plant will have nothing to vertically
stretch to and it will remain short and stocky. 0ome people combat this by
adding +:;s to the side of foliage instead of on top of it. An the other hand if
the light is too far away from the plant, the stem will suffer elongation
=stretching>, which will result in loose and fluff y buds.
It is very important to note that when using +:;s its a daily MbattleN to have
lights in the right spot. )lso many people wonder is it better to have many low
watt +:;s or ust a few high watt +:;s. Hoth ways are capable of providing you
a good harvest. +hoose the configuration that is easiest for you and your grow
area.
In the end there are many different great setups so dont set your mind on the
one single perfect +:; setup. %ust apply these basic tips when starting a +:;
grow and you will see success=this applies to a lot of material in this eHook as
well>.
ED i!"tin!
) couple of years ago if someone
mentioned ;&8 -row ;ights for
growing mariuana you#d surely hear a
chuckle. Dowadays this light source is
@uickly gaining respect as an e7cellent
grow light system.
96
B/n/6its o6 ED i!"tin!7
Gsing ;&8#s for growing saves around 3?P from your energy bill vs. H!0
and .etal Halide. This is a green solution which is not only easier on the
environment, but also your wallet"
;ow Heat. How many times did you forget to raise your H!0 light and
burn the tops of your plantsC ;&8 grow lights emit very little heat. This
also means your grow room won#t be so hot, so its easier to control
temperature. (our thermal footprint will also be less, providing a more
discreet growing e7perience.
;&8 growing lights have a longgggg life span. .ost are rated for 5?,???
hours"
$ide 0pectrum. The ;&8#s provide the right blend of light to be e@ually
effective during vegetative and budding stage.
97
98
ED Gro$ i!"ts and Marijuana@
(ep" ;&8#s are a great light source and are proven to grow mariuana. They are
a great inconspicuous way to grow. ) modern <? watt ;&8 light system has the
same output power as a /?? watt H!0 or .H bulb. %ust by reading the point
form info above you can see a clear picture of why the ;&8 -row lights are
great for mariuana.
;&8 lighting has a number of uni@ue advantages. The lamps have a fi7ed angle
so no reflector is needed, all the light output is directed at the plants. ;&8
lighting runs cool and the plants can grow right up to the lights. These lights
produce light in a fairly tight spectrum and lamps are available that can be
combined to stimulate all the photo sensitive hormones in the plant.
The downside is that ;&8#s are e7tremely e7pensive.
If you#re going to take the ;&8 route, this website is known to have the best
prices around and ships some really high*@uality powerful ;&8 grow lights.
+i!" Int/nsit, Disc"ar!/>+ID? i!"tin!
HI8 lighting is the most efficient effective way to convert electricity into light
that is available on the market today. There are two types of HI8 grow lights
used for horticultural growing, and those are .etal Halide=mh> and High
!ressure 0odium=hps>. This is an e7tremely important purchase decision=as
important as choosing your strain">, so make sure you get a high @uality light.
He warned, HI8s tend to produce a high electricity bill.
Not/7 so8/ )i!"ts co8/ $it" a -"os-"or coatin! on t"/ out/rAbu)bC t"is /n"anc/s
t"/ ,/))o$ ar/a o6 t"/ s-/ctru8 at t"/ /4-/ns/ o6 a 6/$ )u8/ns. 5"os-"or coat/d
bu)bs $i)) a)so di66us/ )i!"t and r/duc/ u)traA0io)/t ra,s.
99
M/ta) +a)id/>M+?
.etal Halide=.H> light fi7tures produce and abundance of blue spectrum energy
and are best for vegetative=beginning> plant growth. .H lamps promote
vigorous plant growth * this light is best used to support green leafy growth and
keeping the plants compact. The light produced looks very similar to a Mcool
whiteN fluorescent light found in modern schools and offices today. The average
lifespan of your standard @uality .etal Halide bulb will be about 6?,???
cumulative hours. The bulb will generally burn longer than this amount, but the
amount of blue spectrum energy will gradually begin to decline after this point,
so it is best not to wait for the bulb to burn out. 'eplace it after 6?,??? hours.
100
M/ta) +a)id/7
$ell*balanced spectral emission.
High lumen per watt ratio.
0trong blue light emission.
Ideal for vegetative growth.
101
+i!" 5r/ssur/ (odiu8>+5(?
High !ressure 0odium=H!0> is the most popular type of bulb among growers
todayJ and with good reason. High pressure sodium light fi7tures produce large
amounts of orange*red spectrum energy and are best for the flowering phase of
growth, this is because this glow of light energy triggers hormones in plants to
increase floweringFbudding in plants. In other words, H!0 lights emit the perfect
spectrum for growing sparkling rich sticky big buds. They are the brightest
indoor lights available. The light produced looks similar to the MwarmN
incandescent lights found in homes, but has a deeper orange*red color. The
street lights you see in many cities around the world use H!0 lighting.
The average lifespan of H!0 lighting is twice that of metal halides, but it is
important to note that around 63,??? hours of cumulative use, they will begin to
draw more electricity than their rated watts while gradually producing less and
less light. H!0 bulbs are 2&'( efficient. They produce appro7imately 6/?
lumens per watt.
102
Their disadvantage is they are deficient in the blue spectrum. H!0 lights do not
contain enough blue spectrum light for abundant vegetative growth. =Ideally
you would use both .H and H!0 lights for both the different stages of growth.>
+i!" 5r/ssur/ (odiu87
.ostly reddish light.
Highest lumen per watt ratio.
Ideal for flowering.
;acks blue spectrum strength.
'A2NING7 B/ /4tr/8/), car/6u) $"/n "and)in! ,our bu)bsT b/6or/
usin! /it"/r bu)b 8a9/ sur/ ,ou $i-/ t"/8 $it" a c)ot">and scr/$ it
in $it" a to$/)?C an, 6in!/r-rint oi) on t"/ bu)b $i)) burn it out
i88/diat/), and caus/ it to /4-)od/111
'"ic" i!"t Do I G/t@
In generalO
C"/a- 4 6t. coo) $"it/ 6)uor/sc/nt tub/s7 for germinationFseedlings.
4** $att M/ta) "a)id/:+5(7 for personal home growers.
1*** $att M/ta) "a)id/:+5(7 for dedicated personal growers and
commercial growers.
8on#t use regular incandescent bulbs =Qgrow bulbsQ> or halogens to grow
cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting=good> or HI8 lighting=best> which supply
the high*intensity light that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds.
If you#re opting for the ultimate lighting setup to produce ma7imum yields L
@uality frosty buds, and have the moneyJ then ideally it would be best to use
both metal halide=mh> and high pressure sodium=hps> lighting fi7tures during
both the vegetative and flowering stages of growth.
103
-rowers use metal halides for small single light grow room, because when high
pressure sodium lights are used by themselves K they tend to produce long thin
fluffy buds. .any professional weed growers combine the lights in a ratio of 1
metal halides=mh> O to 6 high pressure sodium=hps>.
Here are your choicesO
6. H!0 through both stages of growth=decent>.
1. .H through both stages of growth=decent>.
4. .H through the vegetative growth phase followed up by an H!0 light
through flowering=e7cellent>.
/. Hoth .H and H!0 light through both stages of growth=best option>.
Dow as far as lighting fi7tures and bulbs goes, you aren#t
able to use a standard high pressure sodium bulb in a metal
halide fi7ture, but you can use a metal halide bulb in a high
pressure sodium fi7ture AD;( I: IT I0 TH& 0).&
$)TT)-&"""
(ou can purchase specialty hps bulbs that can be used in a
mh fi7ture and vice*versa, but these conversion bulbs
generally cost double the price of a standard bulb.
If you#re only able to purchase one light fi7ture for the time
being, then you can go for getting a high pressure sodium
fi7ture with a high pressure sodium bulb and a metal halide
bulb=rememberO both bulbs .G0T be rated for the same
wattage as your light fi7ture>. Gse the metal halide bulb for the vegetative
growth phase and the high pressure sodium for flowering. $hen you have
enough money, get a proper metal halide fi7ture. )nd don#t worry if you can#t
afford both lights, you can still grow great mariuana with ust one"
104
i!"tin! Your 5)ants
Ba))ast
HI8s cannot operate without a ballast. ) ballast is a transformer used to alter
the electrical current for use by the bulb. It is recommended to get your ballast
along with your bulbs so that you are sure to get the right type. If you don#t
know very much about wiring then be sure to purchase a pre*wired kit so all
you will have to do is screw in the bulb and plug it in.
Hallasts can become very hot. (ou need to properly house them, if this is not
possible make sure that they are on a heat*resistant surface. D&2&' put them
on anything flammable.
105
'A2NING7 Incorr/ct $irin! can s/0/r/), da8a!/ /Dui-8/ntC injur/ or
/0/n 9i)) ,ou>and start 6ir/s1?. B/ car/6u).
i!"t +an!/r
(ou can use a light stand or hang your light from the ceiling using hooks and
chains. (our lights will need to be adustable in order to lower and raise them
depending on the phases of growth. The closer the light is to your plants, the
more light they receive and the faster they grow, but the hotter they become.
He careful because some cannabis plants can grow up to an inch a day" If the
plants get too close to the light they could burn, dry out, and die. It is also
necessary to be able to adust your light due to the heat emitted from these
types of lighting fi7tures. The recommended distance should depend on bulb
siBe and phase of growth.
Not/7 I6 ,ou accid/nta)), !/t a )i!"t burnC do not $orr,C just c)i- o66 t"/ burnt -art
$it" a -air o6 s8a)) scissors and 8o0/ ,our )i!"t to t"/ a--ro-riat/ distanc/.
(ou can build a custom light hanger using parts from a hardware store, or you
can buy a pre*made kit. ) pre*made kit is great as it wont set on fire or break.
)fter starting each day lower your light a few inches until your light is as close
to the plant as possible without harming the plant. (ou#re going to have to
determine the ideal distance yourself, it varies based on reflector @uality, bulb
efficiency and heat generation etc.
'A2NING7 B/ car/6u)C 6o)ia!/ t"at !/ts too c)os/ to t"/ )i!"t $i)) burn1
A !ood !/n/ra) ru)/ isC i6 ,our "and canKt stand t"/ )i!"tC ,our -)ants
canKt /it"/r.
He sure to purchase or build @uality lighting e@uipment as many growers have
lost their homes in fires due to sub*par sketchy lighting systems. If you can
afford a @uality lighting system made for horticultural purposes with a good
reflector and ballast, get it.
106
>5)/as/ b/ sa6/. C"/c9 t"/ E)/ctrica) (a6/t, s/ction 6or 8or/
in6or8ation about ,our !ro$ ar/aKs sa6/t,.?
Bu)b Ori/ntation
0ome bulbs are horiBontal, others vertical, and then there#s universal bulbs.
2ertical bulbs can only be used with fi7tures in the vertical position. HoriBontal
bulbs can only be used with fi7tures in the horiBontal position. Gniversal bulbs
can be used in a horiBontal or vertical position. If you aren#t sure what to buy,
go ahead and get a universal bulb. It will work in either type of fi7ture, hence
the name MuniversalN.
H!0=High !ressure 0odium> lamps can burn in any orientation.
.H =.etal Halide> lamps come in three basic typesO
Bas/ u->BU?7 must be operated in the base up position.
+ori=onta)>+O2?7 must be operated in the horiBontal position.
Uni0/rsa)>U?7 may be operated in any position.
Arienting metal halide lamps in burning positions other than those specified can
result in severe reductions in performance and potential nonpassive failure.
;amp life, light output and color can be affected by the burning position. 0ome
burning positions may need enclosed fi7tures for safety reasons.
'emember when replacing )D( High Intensity discharge lamp, never touch the
bulb with bare hands. HI8 lighting gets e7ceptionally hot and any oils from your
skin left on the bulb will burn and can cause the lamp to burst.
)lways use soft, clean gloves or cloth when handling the lamps.
107
+an!in! Your a8-:2/6)/ctor (t/-AB,A(t/-
Hanging your lamp is easy"
(t/- 1? :irst you need to find a stud in the ceiling. $hen you have located a
stud, figure out which direction they run.
(t/- %? De7t=optional>, take a 17/ and screw it into the ceiling using a drill with
screwdriver attachment and 4.5inch steel screws.
(t/- 3? )fter hanging your 17/, screw #hooks and eyes# in the proper locations
along the stud or 17/ to correspond with your reflector brackets.
(t/- 4? De7t, if necessary hang your chains to lower and raise the light,
otherwise, ust hang it and you#re ready to go"
i!"t 5)ac/8/nt
In order to reap a heavy potent harvest, keep your plant growth within the
penetration area of your lamp. It#s very important for indoor plant growers to
get their light source as close as possible to their plants. The amount of light
your plant receives is directly related to it#s yieldFflower density. )s the light rays
get farther from the bulb they begin to disperse and become less intense
Not/7 T"is is t"/ -ri8ar, r/ason !ro$/rs $i)) 9//- -)ants s8a)) so t"at $a, t"/
/ntir/ -)ant is c)os/r to t"/ )i!"ts.
108
The following chart shows the optimal penetration range for most HI8 lampsO
Bi!ur/ 1. +ID 5/n/tration C"art A Cr/dit7 Ca)iGro$/r
109
O-ti8u8 a8- +/i!"t
$hen growing indoors, there is an optimum distance=height> between the
plants and the light source. This distance fully illuminates the whole canopy with
direct light from the source and is as close as physically possible to the plants
for ma7imum lumen intensity=which supports the best speedy growth>. This is
called the Aptimum ;amp Height=A;H> where &ffective !enetration occurs.
Gltimately, to get the best light efficiency from your lamp, you want it at the
A;H at all costs. .any growers wonder how they can get it there without
causing harm to their plants due to bulb heat.
:irst, try moving your light to the A;H and see what it does to your plants. If
they have no problem, then you#re fine. If you have a high output HI8, this
probably won#t be enough.
110
'A2NING7 I6 t"/ -arts o6 t"/ -)ants c)os/st to t"/ )i!"t start to turn
bro$n and dr, outC rais/ t"/ "/i!"t o6 t"/ )i!"t sourc/ IMMEDIATEYC
as t"/, ar/ too c)os/.
De7t, try actively e7hausting your light hood by hooking up a direct e7haust
system to the hood, and then move your lamp to the A;H and see if the plants
are A.E. If the plants still seemed affected by the heat, then you must add glass
to your actively e7hausted lamp hood. -lass will absorbFreflectFfilter some of the
light energy being emitted by the lamp.
The number would seem relatively low, around 1*4P of wattage, but it will
effectively filter out almost all of what little G2*H is emitted by the lamp. G2*H is
believed, and has been shown, to have a positive influence on the potency of
+annabis.
;ight intensity is directly related to yield and flower density.
)lmost all glass offered today for insertion in air*cooled lamp hoods is tempered
glass, which is regular glass with low amounts of impurities. If one was looking
for the most efficient glass for their hood, @uartB glass will allow the
transmission of G2*H, but is not made specifically for light hoods. :inding a
custom @uartB glass can be tough work, but it is the best option if you are
looking to make the best buds on &arth.
)nd also remember, that if you have a rectangular garden, it is important to
position the longest side of the reflector parallel to the shortest side of your
garden.
(ou should periodically inspect and clean your light hood and bulbs, especially
after foliar feeding or underleaf spraying for insects. The dust and dirt that
collects will definitely decrease reflectivity. Isopropanol alcohol, glass cleaner or
water=and a soft cloth> can all be used to remove streaks, dust and spots.
111
Bu)b +/at 5ro4i8it,
There are a number of factors which play a part in the temperature radiated
from your bulb=i.e. watts, hood design, and air circulation>.
) simple method of testing for temperature is to use the back of your handJ if
its too hot for your hand, it#s too hot for your plants. -ood ventilation is the key
to getting your light closer to the plant tops.
'ecommended typical Aptimum ;amp Height distancesO
B)our/sc/nts7 within pro7imity.
4** $att +5(7 6 feet.
6** $att +5(7 6.5 feet.
1*** $att +5(7 1 feet.
)nd here#s a rough guide for when first starting outO
B)uor/sc/nt7 tips of leaves almost touching bulbs.
4** $att +a)id/7 two feet away from seedlings and one foot away
from grown plants.
1*** $att +a)id/7 four feet away from seedlings and two feet away
from grown plants.
112
i!"t B/ndin!:(tr/tc"in!
;ight bending happens when your plant tries to grow at an angle towards your
grow light. The problem is if your plants e7cessively begin to grow at an angle
they may eventually grow towards and into another plant. This is bad because
your other plant will then be smothered and not receive enough light. )lso,
during :lowering the buds can get really heavy and fall over. In order to avoid
light bending be sure to switch your plants around accordingly. If your plant is
bending too much one way, simply move it around. It shouldn#t take more than
a day or two until your plant straightens up. If you can#t move your plants like in
a most hydroponics systems, then you can tie your plants up so that they donJt
bend. If growing maor outdoor plants you can use Hamboo poles, !2+ pipe, a
0take etc.
Not/7 B/ndin! -)ants ar/ a $arnin! si!n 6ro8 ,our -)ants A t"/, n//d 8or/
DI2ECT )i!"t1
113
;ight stretching happens when your plants aren#t placed close enough to their
light source. If your plants are too far from the light source they will grow very
tall and skinny searching for more light. This is bad because then the nodes will
develop fewer and farther between. This means fewer sites for buds to grow.
Eeeping your plants closer to the light source will encourage them to remain
bushy and more compact. This is ideal for .)\I.G. bud production.
'emember, the closer your mariuana is to a light source the better it will grow.
:ocus the light on your plants where e7actly they need it the most. )reas such
as tops that are the closest to the light source will produce the largest, most
potent buds. ;ight stretching is all*too*common and occurs when plants crowd
each other for canopy space. ;ower parts of the plant will tend to stretch as
high as a higher ratio of infrared light, rather than direct red light, reaches the
lower canopy. This can be prevented by reflecting light from the floor to target
lower plant sections. This unfiltered light is higher in red spectrum energy,
counteracting the stretching effects of the infrared light. (ou can achieve this by
covering the floor of your garden with some sort of reflective material or
painting it a flat white. )lso be sure to space the plants out properly. 8ue to
most of the light in your grow area hitting the floor, covering your floor with
.ylar or painting it a flat white will greatly increase the amount of light received
by your plants. This will also prevent stretching because the lower canopy is
being properly illuminated.
114
>5)/as/ r/6/r to t"/ i!"tin! and (/ttin! u- Your Gro$ 2oo8 s/ctions
6or -ro-/r i))u8ination !uid/)in/s.?
2/6)/ctors
;ight bulbs are spherical, tube*like, or egg shaped. Abserve how these shapes
direct the light out from the bulbJ in all directions""" This means H);: of your
precious light will be wasted by being directed upwards out of the top of the
bulb, away from your plants. There are two methods to ensure ma7imum light
efficiency.
The first is to position your bulbs in between the plants=hanging from the ceiling
socket*up> so that the base of the bulb is below the tops of your plants. This will
make sure all your light is being directed at the plants in all directions and any
upward bound light will not be wasted. This method is good for large, multi*light
gardens with large plants.
The ne7t method is to position the bulbs above the tops of the plants and use a
reflective hood to reflect upward bound light back down. The closer the reflector
is to the light, the more intense the reflection will be. This method allows the
grower to concentrate more light to one plant area. 'eflectors come in many
different shapes and siBes, some being more effective than others. 'etailers
usually tend to sell them along with the bulb in a complete package. 'emember,
don#t go cheap on )D( part of your lighting setup if you want high yields and
potent bud.
Not/7 C)/an ,our )i!"t r/6)/ctor constant),. Dirt can )/ac" as 8uc" as 1.G o6 ,our
)i!"t1
)lso before making your final purchasing decision be sure to take these factors
into considerationJ a hard or shiny white and mirror images are going to create
massive hot spots as well as any folds or bends in the reflector. The best
reflective surfaces are either a dull or matte finish, a pebble finish, an
aluminum, or a silver. Titanium whites are very good and tend to be the
brightest.
115
'A2NING7 Do not E<E2 us/ a con/As"a-/d "ood1 T"/s/ ar/ t"/ 8ost
in/66/cti0/C in/66ici/nt "oods /0/r cr/at/d b, a)) 8an9ind.
HoriBontally oriented lamps are more efficient for several reasons and should be
seriously considered as the grower shops for a good light solution.
In a horiBontal lamp arrangement, the arc tube that produces the output is
oriented with its full length e7posed to the reflective hood insert and plants.
This provides e7cellent efficiency due to a proper direct and indirect lighting
arrangement.
The reflector should be small=for reasons already stated> and should be well
designed with a gull wing insert which uses a @uality baked*on white enamel
designed to resist discoloration from the adverse affects of heat over time. )
much better solution is to choose a corrosion resistant specular aluminum
insert. The use of @uality specular material is the way to go regarding getting
the most from your investment.
Bu)bs Matc"in! Ba))asts
Hallasts and bulbs should be matched. HI8 bulbs generally need specific
ballasts, and any given ballast can usually safely and effectively operate only
one type or a few types of HI8 bulbs.
The bulb wattage must be matched to the ballast. )
smaller bulb will usually be fed a wattage close to
what the proper bulb takes, and will generally
overheat and may catastrophically fail. )ny
catastrophic failures may not necessarily happen
@uickly. ) larger bulb will be underpowered, and will
operate at reduced efficiency and may have a
shortened lifetime. The ballast may also overheat
from prolonged operation with an oversiBed bulb that fails to warm.
116
&ven if the ballast and bulb wattages match, substitutions can be limited by
various factors including but not limited to different operating voltages for
different bulbs. &7amples areO
!ulse*start sodium lamps often have a slightly lower operating voltage than
metal halide and mercury lamps of the same wattage, and ballasts for these
sodium bulbs provide slightly more current than mercury and metal halide
ballasts for the same wattage would. The higher current provided by the pulse*
start sodium ballast can overheat mercury and metal halide lamps. .ercury and
metal halide lamps may also QcycleQ on and off in lower voltage sodium ballasts,
such as many 5? * 6?? watt ones.
.etal halide lamps have an operating voltage close to that of mercury lamps in
many wattages, but have stricter tolerances for wattage amount. )lso, metal
halides usually need a higher starting voltage. .ost metal halide lamps 6??
watts or smaller re@uire a high voltage starting pulse around or even over 6,???
volts. 655 to /?? watt metal halide lamp ballasts can power mercury lamps of
the same wattage, but the reverse is not recommended.
.ercury lamps 5? to 6?? watts will work on metal halide ballasts, but hot re*
striking of mercury lamps 6?? watts or smaller on metal halide lamps may be
hard on the mercury lamp since the starting pulse can force current through
cold electrodes and the starting resistor inside the mercury lamp.
6??? watt mercury lamps come in two operating voltages, one of which is AE
for 6??? watt metal halide ballasts. ) few wattages of pulse*start sodium come
in two voltages. ) low voltage lamp in a high voltage ballast will be
underpowered, resulting in reduced efficiency, possible reduced lamp life, and
possible ballast overheating. ) high voltage lamp in a low voltage ballast will
usually cycle on and off, operate erratically, or possibly overheat. This will
usually result in greatly reduced lamp life in any case. Ane class of sodium
lamps is made to work in mercury fi7tures, but these only work properly with
some mercury ballasts. +ertain sodium lamps may suffer poor power regulation
and accelerated aging in the wrong mercury ballasts, especially after some
normal aging changes their electrical characteristics. )lso, these lamps may
overheat and will probably have shortened life with pulse*start sodium ballasts.
117
.any sodium lamps re@uire a high voltage starting pulse provided only by
ballasts made to power such lamps.
To prevent dangerous accidents keep remote ballasts away from tap points and
on an elevated position=appro7 5 inches off the floor> using a block or shelf.
) switchable ballast allows you to run a standard halide or sodium bulb from
one ballast, you ust insert the appropriate lamp and set the switch to the
correct operating setting
This type of ballast enables growers to bypass costly conversion lamps and
maintains the higher light output from non conversion bulbs.
Con0/rsion Bu)bs
) +onversion bulb offers you the opportunity to switch the bulb
in your Halide or 0odium fi7ture without changing ballasts.
.any cannabis gardeners prefer Halide light for vegetative
growth and a 0odium light during blooming but a separate
fi7ture is normally re@uired. ) +onversion bulb is a convenient
option when you only have room for a single fi7ture but want the
advantage of both 0odium and Halide lighting.
Not/7 +i!" int/nsit, disc"ar!/ con0/rsion bu)bs ar/ s,st/8
s-/ci6ic. (odiu8 con0/rsion bu)bs ar/ d/si!n/d to b/ us/d in 8/ta) "a)id/ or
8/rcur, 0a-our 6i4tur/s on),. +a)id/ con0/rsion bu)bs ar/ d/si!n/d to b/ us/d in
"i!" -r/ssur/ sodiu8 6i4tur/s on),.
118
2/-)acin! Bu)bs
It depends on what type of lamp you#re using. These recommendations are
based on 63 hours of daily useO
6???w =.H> ;amps 61 .onths
6???w =.H> ;amps Mson agro L warm
delu7eN
65 months
6???w =.H> ;amps Mu cool delu7eN
95??k
61 months
/??w =.H> ;amps 63 months
/??w =.H> ;amps M u cool delu7eN
95??k
65 months
15?w =.H> ;amps M u cool delu7eN
5/??k
61 months
655w =.H> ;amps daylight bulb 55??k 65 months
)ll regular 55w * 15?w =.H> ;amps 65 months
'eplace all H!0 after 1/ months, with the e7ception of the son agro and super
agro, replace after 65 months. :luorescents should be replaced every 65
months. )fter 61 months, check the tubes if running more than one tube on a
single ballast. )lways replace all fluorescent tubes at the same time. 'emember
to always write down the day that you start using a new HI8 lamp. This will
allow you to calculate when to replace it for optimal results.
119
E)/ctricit,
If you plan on using a 6???w or more than one /?? watt and one 9?? watt
lamp, then you should carefully consider the electricity available in your home.
HI8 lights draw enough power to blow fuses or switch breakers if they share a
circuit with other household appliances.
120
&lectricity comes in from the street and is dividable into useable circuits. =+an
be seen inside your circuit breaker located on the side of your home.>
8epending on the siBe of your home and the construction the number of circuits
can be as little as 1 to 4 and up to as much as 1? or more separate circuits"
) fuse or breaker switch will regulate the amount of electricity=measured in
amps> that will be available to that circuit. Household circuits are generally set
at 65 amps. &lectrical devices all come with their own amp rating, which
determines how much power they will draw. This can be found usually on a
label or in the documentation that comes with the electrical device.
(ou can use multiple devices on any given circuit as long as their amp rating
does not e7ceed 65=or whatever your circuit breaker is set to>.
) single 6???w HI8 light bulb + ballast will use about < amps.
Con0/rtin! $atts to a8-s
$atts divided by voltage=$F2> e@ual amps. ) /?? watt ballast plugged into
ordinary house current =61?v> would draw 4.44 amps. Gsing a little math we
can see thenO 2oltage U $atts F )mps.
) lot of growers wonder how many lightsFwatts they can I put on a standard 65
)mp service. The rule of thumb is to only load a breaker up to 3?P of its
capacity. An a 65*amp service with 6/F1 gauge wire one should only load it up
to 61 )mps .)\. 0ince most lights will draw 6 amp per 6?? watts a 65*amp
breaker can handle one 6??? watt light each.
This brings up another point in regards to indoor growing K it is always good
practice to have the fans and the light that they cool on the same breaker. That
way if the breaker is somehow tripped then both the light and its cooling system
are down. Instead of the cooling system for the light going down and the light
still shines away because it was on another breaker.
121
The above figures are estimated based on 66?2 supply. !urchasing a +)T III
meter before doing any electrical work is a sound idea. It will allow for safe
testing of the circuit before commencing work. ) clamp meter is also handy for
testing how many amps the circuit is drawing without having to break the circuit
to do so, great to see if you get a peak when your lights first come on or ust
how many amps a given device is using.
Ground Bau)t Circuit Int/rru-t/r>GBCI?
) -round :ault +ircuit Interrupter=-:+I> is a device to protect against electric
shock should someone come in contact with a live=hot> wire and a path to
ground which would result in a current through hisFher body. The -:+I will trip
in a fraction of a second at currents well below those that are considered
dangerous.
'A2NING7 A GBCI is NOT a substitut/ 6or a 6us/ or circuit br/a9/r as
t"/s/ d/0ic/s ar/ sti)) r/Duir/d to -rot/ct /Dui-8/nt and -ro-/rt,
6ro8 o0/r)oads or s"ort circuits t"at can r/su)t in 6ir/ or ot"/r da8a!/.
-:+Is can be installed in place of ordinary outlets in which case they protect
that outlet as well as any downstream from it. There are also -:+Is that install
in the main service panel.
If you are growing a hydroponics grow, there is no doubt that you need a -:+I.
)ny place where it is likely or possible that someone may be standing in a
puddle of water and will come in contact with a plugged in electrical device
needs a -:+I.
Con0/rtin! (oc9/ts
0ome growers face a problem. The circuit which goes into their grow room only
has two wires, but their light has a 4 prong plug" $hat should they doC
:or starters they shouldn#t use one of those adapters that converts a 4 prong to
a 1 prong unless they know for certain that the socket has been properly
122
grounded.
They can install a new breaker in the service panel and run 4 wire 'oma7 to
their grow. Then they can install a 4 prong outlet=preferably a -:+I>.
Huying a basic wiring book and following the instructions &\)+T;( is crucial
here. In fact, one would do better hiring a professional electrician to do the ob.
+ompared to hospital costs they are pretty cheap.
T"/ Cost To 2un
In order to determine the cost of your lighting setup, you need to know three
thingsO
6. $attsO The wattage of the appliance
1. HoursO The duration it will be on.
4. 8ollarsO How much electricity costs.
&lectric companies charge by the kilowatt F hr.
0ay you use a /??watt HI8 light, and you run it for 63 hours at .?9 cents a
kilowatt, it would be /?? 7 63 7 .?9, divided by 6??? U ./41=/4 cents>. This will
give you the cost per hour of your light.
The average cost of running a 6??? watt light on 61F61 is about X1?*X4? a
month in electricity.
123
2/ducin! Your 'atta!/ U E)/ctric Bi))
0uddenly spiking your electric bill is never a good thing as this may send up a
red flag. Gtility companies can tell your bill is way off from the same time last
year, and growers are being found this way. $hen moving into a new place,
immediately establish patterns of high electricity usage.
Here are some great tips you can use to offset and reduce your wattage and
electric bill each monthO
)dd a timer to your hot water heater. (ou can obtain one of these at your
local hardware store. The installation info is easily available, =or have an
electrician do it * it#s a common re@uest>.
Turn off any lights or other electronic devices when you leave the room"
(ou don#t want to waste any wattage. This one single tip if adhered to can
save you lots of money and wattage each month like you wouldn#t believe.
He sure to check the temperature your hot water heater is running. This
can be viewed at a small dial right usually behind that small cover on the
front. 0ome factory settings are ridiculously high and waste precious
electricity heating to e7treme amounts.
Ane great solution many growers have used effectively is to use outdoor
natural sunlight for flowering and use continuous light indoors for
germination and vegetative growth. This takes advantage of the natural
lightFdark cycle and can cut your energy use in half compared to the same
operation indoors. (ou can build a small greenhouse using fiberglass or
!2+ sheets that looks like a small storage shed or tool shed that will not
raise any suspicions.
)dd a water heater QblanketQ * available at any home improvement or
hardware store. This will greatly assist the water heating process,
conserving lots of electricity.
Insulate the hot pipes running out of the water heater. 0ame as above.
+heck the caulking on all your windows and doors. )ir leaks add up to
e7tra heatingFcooling costs. If you can afford it, replace your windows
124
with newer, more energy efficient models.
If you live in a very hot climate, it is advisable to apply a to tint the
windows that get the most direct sunlight and heat during the day=east,
west and south windows>.
Gnplug any dryers, washers or other large unneeded appliances that draw
a lot of electricity.
0hower at another location such as the gym if possible.
If you have an attic, install an attic fan. This will save your overall cooling
costs a lot in the sultry summer months.
Install, or have installed, a programmable thermostat. It is a complete
waste to waste electricity on keeping the house too cool or warm when no
one is home.
)dd insulation to your attic. If your house is older and you =or someone
else> have been up there crawling or walking around on for years, your
current insulation may be compacted =that#s a bad thing>. +heck your local
yellow pages to have someone come out and blow in some more
insulation. It#s not cheap, but not as bad as you might think. )nd it will
save you money on heatingFcooling.
$e have heard of some people steal their neighbor#s power through
e7tremely careful stealthy wiring but we do not recommend this at all.
0tealing power can cause a huge risk and create even more unwanted
e7posure than paying for it" Dot to mention stealing what is not yours is
morally wrong and as .a7imus from -ladiator says, M$hat we do in life
echoes in eternity.N O>
125
'A2NING7 E)/ctrica) (a6/t,
There is nothing worse than coming home to a burned down house for not
implementing the following effective safety precautions. !lease be safe"
Eeep electronic hardware and cables organiBed and away from areas
where you can trip on them. .ake sure you keep all electrical devices
and cables away from water.
!lace smoke alarms inside and out of your grow room. If your grow
room is in an attic or basement, make sure you will be able to hear the
smoke alarms going off from other rooms in the house.
0afety glasses or goggles should be worn whenever power tools are
used, especially if you wear contact lenses.
.ake sure the power is off at the breaker bo7 before doing any electrical
work.
)lways work in a clean, dry area free from anything wet.
$ires should only be connected at accessible unction bo7es=containing
fuses and other protection>. Dever splice wires together and conceal
them within a wall without a unction bo7.
126
Dever attempt to strip wires with a knife. )side from endangering your
fingers, you will nick the wire metal, which will create an electrical
haBard.
-round fault circuit interrupter outlets should be used under damp
conditions=basements, bathrooms, outdoors, etc.>, as re@uired by the
Dational &lectric +ode.
8on#t create fire haBards by over*loading an outlet with too many lights
or by using an e7tension cord. 'unning too many lights on an ordinary
household circuit can be 2&'( dangerous and easily start a fire.
);$)(0 have a full fire e7tinguisher nearby and know how to use it in
case of an emergency.
)void electrical shock by mapping and marking your switch and outlet
bo7es. !ut the map on the door of the main power service panel.
;eave a warning message that you are working on the circuit at the
service panel, and tape the circuit breaker in the off position. $ith a
fuse bo7, take the fuse out.
Dever change the siBe of a fuse or breaker in a circuit.
He certain your connector is +AF);' rated when you splice aluminum
wire. If it is marked +GF);', use only copper wire. 8o not use aluminum
wire with push terminalsJ use only copper or copper*dad aluminum wire.
)lways correct the problem that caused a fuse or circuit breaker to blow
before replacing the fuse or circuit breaker.
'eplace wiring that shows signs of fraying or deterioration.
)void breaking your knuckles by bracing the powerful right*angle drill so
that it cannot spin around if it gets stuck while drilling.
Hefore working with wires or electrical connections, check them with a
voltage tester to be sure they are dead.
!lumbing and gas pipes are often used to ground electrical systems.
Dever touch them while working with electricity.
8on#t use metal ladders with overhead electricity.
127
Dever ignore safety to save money or to rush a proect.
Gse the proper protection, take precautions, and plan ahead.
B/ sa6/C and r/8/8b/rT it CAN "a--/n to ,ou1
i!"tin! (c"/du)/s
)t different stages in a mariuana plant#s life cycle it re@uires different amounts
of lighting. .ariuana regulates it#s growth and flowering stages in response to
the hours of daylight and darkness.
(//d)in! 5"as/7 !lants receive 69*63 hours of light each day.
</!/tati0/ Gro$t"7 In this vegetative growth stage the plants will receive
light 63 to 1/ hours per day. The longer it is on, the faster the plants will grow.
B)o$/rin!7 61 on, 61 off. Total and complete uninterrupted dark period.
&nsure that your environment is completely dark during the dark cycle=61 off>.
Not/7 In </! %4 "ours is b/st. In t"/ 6a8ous $ords o6 Ed 2os/nt"a)7
VCannabis und/r continuous )i!"t $i)) !ro$ 33G 6ast/r t"an t"/ sa8/
-)ants on an 1#A6 )i!"t r/!i8/.V
128
i!"tin! Ti8/r
(ou will need to purchase a lighting timer that will turn your lights on and off
automatically respective of their lighting cycles=dependent upon what phase of
growth the plant is currently in>. If you#re using fluorescent lighting, then you
can use any standard light duty grounded timer. :luorescent lighting doesn#t
take up much power.
If you are using High Intensity 8ischarge lighting then you#re going to need to
get a heavy duty grounded timer. (ou can find these industrial*grade heavy duty
timers in any hardware store. Heavy*duty timers are strongly recommended
primarily due to their durability, @uality, safety, and longevity. ) decent one will
last you a very, very long time.
)fter you make your lighting timer purchase, all you need to do is set it properly
according to whatever phase of growth your plant is currently in K it
automatically handles the rest. That way you can rela7 and enoy watching your
buds grow without stressing about turning on and off the lights at proper times.
130
G/r8ination
Ance you have decided that it is time to use your seed to grow a plant, you will
have to initiate plant growth by germinating the seed. 8uring germination
moisture, heat, and air activate hormones within the durable outer coating of
the seeds. 0oon, the seeds outer protective coating will crack and the root=a
tiny white sprout> is pushed downward outside. De7t, seed leaves emerge out
from within the shell as they search upward in search of light. 0oon after a
seedling is formed. 'egular household water contains all the nutrients a seed
needs in order to germinate properly. Ance the seeds sprout fertiliBer is then
added 1*/ weeks later.
131
The first thing you need to know is e7pect out of 6? seeds appro7imately 1 will
germinate into strong healthy female plants =the end goal>. The rest will be
male, weak, or not germinate at all. !lease note that seeds that are stored too
long will germinate slowly and have a higher failure rate. .ost healthy vigorous
seeds will begin to sprout within 1*5 days. 0ome seeds may take even a month
to germinate, even if the best conditions are met" Hut these will probably grow
very slow. )t least half your seeds will have germinated by 16 days.
)s the seedlings mature, remove any sickly, male, and underdeveloped plants
from your garden. :ocus your attention on caring for the strong female plants
that have the potential to create you a massive rich harvest. The ne7t step is to
select the best mother plant for the cultivation of super clones.
+annabis seeds need only water, heat, and air to germinate. They do not need
fertiliBer, e7tra hormones, or any light. )ll the plant needs at this time is
contained inside the tiny seed.
132
!roperly germinated seeds=ideally strong, mature and under a year old> will
sprout in 1*5 days when kept at 5?*<?Y:=16.6*41.1Y+> with water.
Gnfortunately sometimes your seeds will not germinate. $ith high*grade
cannabis seeds costing so much money, it is e7tremely important =and not to
133
mention cost effective> that you pay very close attention to this section.
.isinformation and bad techni@ue are often used in cannabis seed sprouting.
:ortunately, the information presented here for you is literally what I have found
to be the most successful ways of germinating mariuana seeds. This
information will allow you to get the highest germination success rates possible.
+annabis seeds can be stored for up to 5 years in a cool dark place with
relatively medium humidity. Hut they do go bad.
Not/7 i6 ,ou bu, ,our s//ds 6ro8 a Dua)it, s//dban9C ,ou "a0/ a ri!"t to /4-/ct
t"at c)os/ to 1**G o6 t"/8 $i)) !/r8inat/>i6 !uid/)in/s out)in/d b/)o$ ar/
6o))o$/d? and br//d tru/ to t"/ 0ari/t, ,ou "a0/ s/)/ct/d.
:or soil simply place your seeds 4F3 of an inch deep in soil. Ane fresh seed per
each pot. Eeeping the seeds moist is critical. The water activates hormones
within the seeds.
.ost growers will plant twice as many seeds as they need, because generally
half of their plants will turn out to be male, which will then be eliminated from
their garden. This gives rise to 0insemilla plants=unpollinated female plants K
the ultimate harvest>. 0insemilla is 0panish for Mwithout seedN.
134
)s far as lighting goes, sprouts are placed under lights about 6 ft. from a /??$
HI8 and about 1 ft. from a 6???$ HI8. Eeep the sprouts and seedlings at a
temperature of about 55*3?Y:=14.3*19.9Y+> is H&0T.
$hen the appropriate conditions are given to the seed for the appropriate
length of time, the plant will sprout a root. )fter the root is about a @uarter of
an inch long the seed can be placed in an environment where it can grow.
If you are going to be growing mariuana in soil, you can germinate the seed
directly on the spot where it will grow. 0imply place the seed where you want
the plant to grow and cover it with about a half inch of loose soil.
Eeep the soil around the plant moist =not soaking wet> by spraying it with water
aged for at least 4 days in a hand sprayer. Eeeping the seed moist but not wet
by spraying it may not be possible especially if you are growing outdoors. 0o
you may wish to germinate your mariuana seed indoors using the method
described below.
T/8-/ratur/
'egular room temperature =appro7imately 9?*3?Y:=65.5*19.9Y+>> is suitable for
seeds that originated in a colder climate, but a higher temperatures are
necessary to ensure optimal speed and health when germinating and growing
some seed strains that originated in areas where it is very warm all year long.
If you have no freaking clue where your seed originated from, not to worry, ust
try germinating a single seed at room temperature =53Y:=15.5Y+> being the
best>. If your seed doesn#t sprout, try germinating it at =6?Y:=*61.1Y+> hotter, or
perhaps a little colder until you find out what temperature works best.
.ost growers feel 55*3?Y:=14.3*19.9Y+> is the absolute best temperature range
for high germination rates.
135
Air
)ir=o7ygen> is a critical factor to take into account when germinating your
seeds. Wuality fresh abundant air is a critical component for germination and
general vigorous mariuana plant growth. If your grow medium is too soggy and
moist it will literally drown the seed by cutting off it#s air supply. )lso planting
seeds too deep can cause this poor germination as well. ) general guideline is
to plant the seeds twice as deep as the width of the seed.
G/r8inatin! T/c"niDu/s
-erminating a mariuana seed is comprised of supplying the seed with moisture
and keeping it in a dark place that has a fairly constant warm temperature. (ou
must learn and understand proper germination techni@ues=and do it right> in
order to get a high percentage of successful sprouts. In nature, seeds germinate
underground where it is dark and moist. Hefore planting seeds, they can be
soaked in water=sometimes in a vitamin mi7ture>J this speeds germination.
$hen growing in soil you can will soak them for one day.
There are many different ways of germinating seeds, depending on the growth
environment. :or e7ample, if you are growing mariuana hydroponically, you can
germinate the seed directly on a small piece of the media that will be used in
your hydroponic garden.
Not/7 I6 ,ouKr/ a 6irst ti8/ !ro$/r and ,ou bou!"t 6or /4a8-)/ 1* s//dsC 6or ,our
6irst ti8/ start o66 $it" on), !/r8inatin! 3 6or t"/ 6irst $//9C t"/n onc/ ,ou !/t
t"/ "an! o6 itC !o 6or a)) o6 t"/8.
136
(oa9in!
In this method, the grower places hisFher seed=s> in a cup of some sort, which
is filled with warm water.
Mat/ria)s7 +upFmug =one that retains heat wellJ i.e. ceramic coffee cup>,
plateFdishFlid =big enough to cover cupFmugFetc.>, warm water.
5roc/dur/7 !lace the seed=s> inside the cup filled with warm water. De7t, cover
it with a ceramic plate=this will prevent heat from escaping, as well as shield the
seeds from light>.
:or best results, use water that is a bit warmer than room temperature. This will
compensate for any drop in temperature. It is normal for the seeds to float on
the surfaceJ ust let them soak for a while then give them a little tap to make
them sink=the best, most viable seeds will sink to the bottom>. )lthough it is
137
virtually impossible to over*soak seeds using this method, seeds should only be
soaked until the taproot has emerged.
This method is e7tremely effective if e7ecuted correctly. .ost seeds should show
their taproots within 1/ hrs., and all seeds should show taproots within /3 hrs.
=assuming you are using good, viable seeds>.
Ti->6or soi)A!ro$/rs?7 If you want to further increase your germination rates,
simply plant your seed=s> shallowJ appro7imately 6*1 cm. deep. The seedling=s>
should break the soil*surface within 1/ hrs., or /3 hrs. for the most =again,
assuming you are using good viable seeds K otherwise, it may take another day
or two>. Ance the seedling=s> hasFhave sprouted, add a little e7tra soil at the
base of the stem=s> for additional support and root*protection.
(ou can prepare the seed by soaking it in a glass of lukewarm water overnight,
keep it room temperature and stable, for 61 * 1/ hours, and if the seed has
sprouted put the seed so the sprouting points downwards, i.e. the crack in the
seed should face downwards. .ake sure the seeds get nice and soaking wet to
activate growth hormones.
Ance soaked your seeds are ready to be placed between moist paper towels to
sprout or they can be planted in a medium such as a rockwool cube.
'A2NING7 DO NOT soa9 s//ds 8or/ t"an %4 "ours. T"/, 8a, !/t too
$/t and su66/r 6ro8 o4,!/n d/-ri0ation and rot.
Not/7 Man, -ro6/ssiona) $//d !ro$/rs "a0/ a s/cr/tT t"/, c)ai8 t"at i6 ,ou -ut
t"/ s//d in Gibb/r/))ic acid and t"/ s//d is 8or/ )i9/), to -roduc/ a 6/8a)/ -)ant.
138
(oi)
!ut soil in a pot and poor water until water come out on the bottom of
the pot. !oke a hole, ?./Q deep in the soil with a pencil. !ut the seed in
the hole and cover the hole with dirt. 0pray the surface with water. !ut
the pot in room temperature=53Y:=15.5Y+> is best> and keep on spraying the
soil with water until you see the sprout.
Take care so you don#t drown the plant at this stage. The seed will germinate in
5*5 days.
139
5ro-a!ation Jits 6or Eas, G/r8inatin!
)nother method is to purchase a propagation kit. This functions like a miniature
greenhouse. The seeds are placed in tiny holes in rockwool cubes and then the
germination hormone that comes with the kit is added, followed by the closure
of the unit#s cover. (ou can also use this kit to help root your clones with ease.
!ropagation kits tend to have a very high success rate=oftentimes 6??P>.
140
5a-/rATo$/) M/t"od
Mat/ria)s7 !aper*towels=at least 1 sheets>, 1 platesFdishes=or similar obect>,
warm water.
T"/ M/t"od7 The paper*towel method involves placing the seed=s> onto a
damp paper*towel=which is placed on a plateFdish, or similar obect>, and
covering them with another damp paper*towel. Hoil some water and run it all
over the plate to kill any bacteria or germs. 'un some boiling hot water over
the paper towel also, but make sure it doesn#t fall apart. Then s@ueeBe the
paper towel until it is damp but not dripping water.
It is imperative that you use water that is warmer than room*temperature. This
will compensate for any drop in temperature. De7t, cover the plateFdish with
another plateFdishFbowl=to prevent heat from escaping, as well as protect the
seeds from light>. The bowl should cover the paper towel so that no sunlight
gets in.
141
)lso, using more than one sheet of paper*towel above and below the seed=s>
will yield better results, as well as adding more warm water to the paper*
towelingFbottom dish before covering the whole arrangement with the optional
second plateFdishFbowl.
'A2NING7 It is i8-/rati0/ t"at t"/ s//ds ar/ r/8o0/d 6ro8 t"/
-a-/rAto$/)in! as soon as t"/ ta-roots "a0/ /8/r!/d. I6 t"/ s//ds ar/
)/6t to soa9 6or too )on!C d/)icat/ 8icroAroots can b/ torn $"/n t"/
s//ds ar/ r/8o0/d 6ro8 t"/ -a-/rAto$/)C $"ic" $i)) t/8-orari),
r/tard !/r8ination:!ro$t" as $/)) as str/ss t"/ -)ant>$"ic" cou)d
-ossib), r/su)t in an un6a0orab)/ 8a)/ or dr/ad/d "/r8a-"rodit/?.
'A2NING O%7 NE<E2 ET T+E (EED( D2Y OUT111 'at/r t"/ c)ot" and
9//- it 8oist. /t t"/ /4c/ss $at/r drain a$a, 6r//), and 9//- it in t"/
dar9. T"/ c)ot" $i)) r/tain /nou!" 8oistur/ to !/r8inat/ t"/ s//d in a
6/$ da,s or so. I6 6un!a) attac9s ar/ a conc/rn ,ou can $at/r $it" a
8i)d t$oA-/rc/nt 6un!icid/ or b)/ac" so)ution.
Bi!ur/ 1. G/r8inatin! (//ds 5)ac/d on 'ar8 (ur6ac/
142
G/r8inatin! Usin! 5/at BriDu/tt/ M/t"od
This is a great method" It#s super easy to handle, little risk of damaging the
sprouting and easy to maintain the moistnessO
(t/- 1? Take a peat bri@uette, and put in water and let it swell. $hen the
bri@uette is done swelling, put one seed in the hole in the middle. $ait for the
seed to grow. 8on#t let the bri@uette dry out, add water when necessary and
keep the bri@uette at a warm place <5Y:=45Y+>, preferably in a bo7 with a lid to
keep a warm environment. Apen the lid very once and in a while to let new
o7ygen in. $hen roots have sticking out, it#s time for replanting. !ut the peat
bri@uette in a pot and cover the bri@uette with soil.
143
G/r8inatin! In 2oc9$oo) (t/-AB,A(t/-
-erminating in 'ockwool is one of the most widely*used germination methods
done today. The great thing about starting on hydroponic media=such as
rockwool> is that once the seed germinates then you can place the media
containing the seed directly into the garden without touching the seed itself.
This is a good idea because a minimum of stress is caused to the plant.
T"/ M/t"od7
(t/- 1? 0oak rockwool cubes in solution of pH*adusted water.
(t/- %? 8rain off e7cess water from rockwool cubes.
(t/- 3? !lace small hole in the middle of the rockwool cube with a match=or
any other similar apparatus>. .ake the depth of the hole about twice the depth
of the seed you intend to germinate.
144
(t/- 4? !lace seed into this hole in the rockwool that you have made and
gently brush across rockwool so seed is completely covered.
(t/- .? Dow place these cubes with seeds in a tray on top of a heat pad if
you#ve got one. Eeep the temperature between 55*3?Y:=1/*15Y+> for optimum
germination. 0ome strains may prefer it warmer, but this is the temperature for
the maority of strains. !lace a clear cover over the tray so you are creating a
humidity tent. This retains much needed moisture.
(t/- 6? )t least once a day, check the moisture of the rockwool cubes. If they
need more, apply purified water with a spray bottle. Eeep the cubes damp, but
not drenched.
(t/- R? $hen you see the plant ust penetrate the surface of the rockwool
gently remove the seed shell from the recently germinated embryo.
That#s all there is too it" -ood luck"
145
Bast/r G/r8ination 'it" (cari6ication
(ou can get reliable=and @uicker> germination results using the following
techni@ue. It takes a little practice though because there is a little risk
involved...
EDui-8/nt N//d/d7
6. 0eeds
1. !aper towels
4. )ir*tight plastic container
/. !ocketknife or sandpaper
5. $ater
T"/ M/t"od7
(t/- 1? ;I-HT;( chipFscarify outer seed coat in one place. &mphasis on lightly
because if you do it too roughly it will ruin a perfectly good seed.
(t/- %? 8ampen paper towels and place seeds on it. &ither fold or roll it up so
that its pressing against the seeds.
(t/- 3? !ut paper towels with seeds inside into an air*tight plastic container.
(t/- 4? !lace in a warm location=i.e. on top of a T2 set, 2+', or refrigerator>.
(t/- .? Apen every 61 hours to allow o7ygen into the container and check on
the seeds. .ost should germinate in about 1/ hours, but there may be a few
that need a bit longer.
+o$ on! 'i)) it Ta9/@
0ome seeds can take up to 61 days to start germinating, but most will
germinate between 1/ to 51 hours. The general time frame as mentioned above
is 1*5 days. He patient and give your precious seeds a chance to sprout"
146
Ad0anc/d G/r8ination 5roc/dur/ E4a8-)/
Aftentimes professional weed growers will use weak solution of nutrition and
protection products in the pre*soak, germination and early growth periods for
seed growing.
)s an e7tremely advanced e7ample, one e7perienced veteran cannabis cultivator
combines beneficial fungi, nutrients, a catalyst, and H*vitamins in dilute form to
pre*treat cubes and ensure proper feeding of the sprouts after they have
sprouted. To create this mi7ture he uses products called !iranha, h*6 Humic
)cid, H51, and %ump 0tart made by a +anadian company called )dvanced
Dutrients that sells its products in &urope.
Together these products prevent harmful fungi while providing nutrients,
protectants, homones, growth boosters and vitamins that increase sprout
survival, health, and grow rate.
Not/7 I6 ,ou ar/ a b/!inn/r !ro$/rC donKt str/ss just ,/t1 I just $ant to !i0/ ,ou a
co8-)/t/ o0/r0i/$ o6 an ad0anc/d !/r8ination sc/nario so ,ou 9no$ $"at to
d/cid/ on doin! in ord/r to suit ,our indi0idua) !ro$ n//ds.
$ithin a day or two of the time seeds sprout, he will then begin a feed program
that provides nitrogen*rich basic fertiliBation, H vitamin supplementation,
beneficial microbes that feed roots, enBymes, and inoculants. He begins
gradually increasing ppm basic fertiliBer called )dvanced Dutrients 0ensi -row
Two*!art combined with H*6 humic, !iranha, 2oodoo %uice, H*51 and 0corpion
%uice.
The %ump 0tart is discontinued when the 0ensi -row starts. He then carefully
monitors and adusts his nutrient mi7ture ppm and pH in combination with close
watch of his plant leaves and growth rates to make sure that he is ma7imiBing
growth and later harvest potential.
)gain, utiliBing the above easier germination methods you can get get incredibly
high germination rates. Hut if you are opting for an elite procedure, it would
look something very similar to the above.
147
Onc/ Your (//d (-routs
+heck daily to see if your seeds have sprouted roots=when one does
immediately transfer to a grow medium> and add small amounts of water in
order to keep moist. This is also true if you germinate seeds in a piece of
cheesecloth, rockwool, oasis cubes, etc or medium other than paper towels.
Ance the seeds sprout and a white shoot sprout emerges about a @uarter inch,
transplant root down into your soil or grow other grow medium. =Transplant
them into the progressively larger containers.> Handle it very very carefully,
preferably with tweeBers and make sure you do not touch or break the tip. Try
to minimiBe the delicate rootlet to prolonged intense light or air. Hury the
germinated seed with half an inch of planting medium covering it with the white
root tip pointing down. If using rockwool simply pre*drill a .5N hole and place
the germinated seeds inside it with the white root tip pointing down. +over it
with one*half inch of moist rockwool. Eeep the rockwool evenly moist.
Not/7 Tr, and trans-)ant t"/ s//ds into t"/ sa8/ substanc/ t"/, $/r/ s-rout/d
in. T"is G2EATY 8ini8i=/s t"/ c"anc/ o6 t"/ a))AtoAco88on -rob)/8 o6
trans-)ant s"oc9.
'A2NING7 NE<E2 TOUC+
T+E DEICATE 2OOT TI51
148
(//d)in!
) cannabis seedling has 1 leaves that are known as a Mseedling leafN, or
Mcotyledon.N These leaves function as the seedling#s initial food store while it
develops a vascular system for being able to take care of itself. Those are the
first leaves that the plant develops and they are rounded in their shape. )s the
stem grows the leaves spread out and true leaves begin to appear. The little
plant at this point in time officially becomes a seedling. $ater and heat are
critical at this point in the plant#s development.
149
$hen the cannabis plant develops, those leaves turn yellow and die, this is
@uite normal at this stage. ) slight yellowing on the first real leaf might be
possible, it is translocation as your plant is now trying to turn food from the soil
into twigs, stems, branches, leaves. 0ame goes for the first set of real leaves,
and the subse@uent set of leaves that have 4 lamina. )lthough these real leaves
will last a little longer, their life span is also limited. Aver watering here is the
most common mistake of the newbie grower. It is important to delicately supply
the correct amount of lighting * keep the seedling a few inches away=if you are
using fluorescent> from the lamp.
It is important to understand that during a seedlings growth a lot of activity is
happening Mbehind the scenesN. This means that in this growth phase the
seedling is primarily focused on developing a root system while above*ground
growth appears slow. Dew growers often think they are doing something wrong
so they tend to over*water or over*fertiliBe at this point. ;ittle do they know the
plant is speedily right on track.
The new developing fragile root system re@uires an optimum constant supply of
water and warmth. Too much water and you will drown and rot your roots. Too
little water and your fragile root system will dry up.
150
The seedling growth stage lasts for about two to three weeks after seeds have
germinated.
To- 1* 2/asons Your (//ds 'ont G/r8inat/
1. Too Co)d7 +old temperatures can kill seedlings and prevent germination.
+ool temperatures can result in slow, uneven germination, and attack by soil
diseases. (ou may want to start your seeds indoors, before outplanting. .ake
sure planting dose not done too early, when it is still cold and there is a frost
haBard.
%. Too +ot7 High temperatures result in e7cessive soil desiccation and inury to
seeds and seedlings.
3. Too '/t7 0eeds need to be damp, not soaking wet for germination. &7cess
water prevents o7ygen getting to the seed. !oorly drained soils may also cause
soil fungi*related diseases. The condition of wet soils may be improved by
adding perlite. which will aerate your soil.
4. Too Dr,7 ) certain amount of water is essential for germination, so
maintaining a constant soil moisture during the germination period is vital, cover
containers with glass or plastic sandwich wrap to prevent your soil from drying
out.
.. 5)antin! Too D//-7 This will result in delayed emergence * seeds may not
be able to grow enough to reach the surface on the limited food storage within
the seed. 0oil temperature is also lower with depth. !lant your seed 6F1 and
inch to an inch down for best results.
6. 5)antin! (//ds Too ("a))o$7 If you plant your seeds too shallow they can
dry out @uickly.
R. (oi) Too Bir87 .aking your soil mi7 too firm can prevent o7ygen from
getting to your seeds and affect drainage.
151
#. (oi) Too oos/7 0oil that is too loose will result in too much air surrounding
the seed=s> * they will not absorb moisture and will most likely dry out.
&. (oi) 6un!us7 0eeds can root well or seedlings can fall over and die. Aver*
watering, poor drainage, and lack of aeration will increase the likelihood of this
occurring. !lant seeds in steriliBed potting mi7, and make sure your containers
are cleaned properly.
1*. Non <iab)/ s//ds7 If your seeds have not been stored correctly they can
deteriorate. )s aforementioned, look for viable @uality dark brown seeds. )void
immature seeds=typically light colored or whitish>.
5)antin! (//d)in!s
+annabis seeds grow best at 53Y:=15.5Y+>. !lant seeds twice as deep as the
width of the seed. 8uring seedling growth a root system develops rapidly. $hile
green, above ground growth remains slow. The emerging new fragile root
system re@uires a constant supply of water and warmth. Too much water
drowns root and leads to root rot. ;ack of water will cause the root system to
dry up. !lacing a heating mat underneath your tray will heat your growing
medium. If the growing medium stays a few degrees warmer the roots will grow
much faster. 0eedlings re@uire at least 69 hours of light daily. )t first they
re@uire less intense light than they will need at later stages of growth and
development.
Not/7 +/a)t", roots $i)) b/ a bri!"t $"it/C not bro$n or an, ot"/r co)or.
'A2NING7 On), trans-)ant ,our c)on/s or s//d)in!s onc/ su66ici/nt
"/a)t", stron! )on! root 8ass "as d/0/)o-/d.
152
Trans-)antin! (//d)in!s
Transplanting is done when the seedlings are ready to be transferred from their
rockwool tray=or other medium> to another grow medium. The process is
simple, carefully lift the seedling from the tray still inside the rockwool cube and
place it in another medium such as soil or directly into your hydroponic setup.
$hen transferring the seedling to soil K dig a small hole in the soil and drop the
cube in, then cover the cube with soil. If you#re not using a rockwool cube,
simply carefully transfer your seedling into a small hole into the soil and bury it.
Not/7 T"/ cub/ do/snKt a66/ct ,our -)antKs !ro$t" in an, $a,C so8/ -/o-)/ 6//) it
actua)), "/)-s su--ort t"/ -)ant.
T/8-/ratur/
Temperature is a very important factor in sprouting seeds, and it is also a much
misunderstood one. 0ome growers buy heating mats to send bottom heat to the
seed Bone, but an ambient room temperature between 93*35Y:=1?*1<./Y+> is
ideal for most seeds. Temperatures lower or higher than that will interfere with
germination. If your seeds are from a hot, e@uatorial region, they may most
likely need slightly higher temperatures to germinate properly. Healthy seeds
will germinate within 1*5 days of being placed in cubes or peat pots.
i!"tin!
0eedlings will need a minimum of 69 hours of light daily. :or the first 1*4 weeks
they re@uire less intense light and grow very well under fluorescent tubes=an
HI8 light or a compact fluorescent=+:;> can also be used here>. If using a
compact fluorescent place it 61*63 inches above the seedlings. If using an HI8
then place it 4*/ feet above to ensure optimum growth.
Not/7 Man, studi/s "a0/ r/0/a)/d t"at s-routs can "and)/ "i!" int/nsit, 8/ta)
"a)id/ s-/ctru8 )i!"tin! 6or 1#A%4 "ours -/r da, b/!innin! t$o da,s a6t/r
s-routin!C -ro0id/d t"/ )i!"ts ar/nKt so c)os/ to t"/ s//d)in!s t"at t"/, sin!/ or
burn b, /4c/ss "/at. But 6)uor/sc/nts ar/ sti)) -r/6/rr/d and t"/ 8ost $id/), us/d
8/t"od toda, 6or n/$), d/0/)o-in! s//d)in!s.
153
0eedlings that are given too little light=such as those grown under fluorescents
or on short daylengths below 63 hours a day> will stretch. 0tretching occurs
when a sprout has put on more than an inch or two of stem before its first
leaves. ) common reason is that plants are given too little light, so they stretch
to reach the light. This results in unsteady stems that will never become stable
enough to ensure proper growth.
Ta--in!
This is a great little trick. )s soon as the sprouts emerge above*ground, they
should be lightly tapped several times a day. This promotes internal
strengthening. )fter the sprouts have been alive for a week or more, their stems
should be gently bent back and forth daily 2&'( +)'&:G;;( in order to further
strengthen the stems. These first steps are crucial for developing strong healthy
plants that produce a big beautiful @uality heavy harvest.
)fter the sprouts have been alive for about two weeks, an oscillating fan
blowing enough current to make the stems bend very slightly should be directed
across the sprout area.
)ll of the tactics above will make for a thicker, sturdier stalk that will produce
bushier, more productive plants.
'"/n to B/rti)i=/ (//d)in!s
.i7es composed of perlite, vermiculite, and rockwool and other grow media
should be treated with a mild application=4??*/??ppm> of fertiliBer prior to seed
introduction. This will provide available nutrients and buffer the pH.
)dding some sort of au7inFvitamin based supplement will accelerate early plant
development. It is not beneficial to apply additional fertiliBer to seedlings in
rockwool or other inert media until the first set of true leaves appear, at which
point a ] to T strength application is made.
154
&7cessively rich organic soil mi7es are best avoided until the tender, young
plants are well established. It is possible to feed young seedlings in soil with a
] to T strength solution of fertiliBer after two to three weeks, or after the first
set of true leaves appearJ but only if the soil is not overly saturated in terms of
nutrients.
'"at to oo9 Bor
It is useful to know that nutrient deficiencies can have the same symptoms as
nutrient e7cesses. In general, if sprouts are gaining an inch or more of height
per day, have leaves that are solidly lime green in color, are branching out to be
bushy and dense, and have upright=not drooping> leaves and sturdy stems, this
is a sign that pH, ppm, water supply and feed regimen are ideal for the plants.
)t this point you should have a general idea of which seedlings are healthy and
which are sickly. Hy the 4*5
th
week of growth your seedlings will be big enough
to determine whether or not they are strong and healthy. 'emove from your
garden any weak, sickly plants and focus your attention on the remaining strong
survivors.
5ur-)/ (t/8s
Aften growers will find their seedlings begin to e7hibit purple stems.
Do worries * a seedling#s purple stem doesn#t necessarily indicate an unhealthy
plant. !urple 0tems could be a result of plant genetics, if this is the reason, you
are to e7pect a purple stem throughout the entire life of the plant. It must be
noted that purple stems aren#t a dominant trait, and are rarely genetically
induced.
) baby sprout with a purple stem is almost always 6??P natural. (oung
seedlings are still adusting to their environment and may be slightly lacking in a
nutrient. If this is the case, healthy plants will regain their greenFgreenish*
brown color within a few days to a week or two tops.
155
If you have ruled out the possibilities of genetics and the seedlings adustments
to life, you should begin looking for a nutrient deficiency. !urple stems are
commonly caused by a !hosphorous=!> or .agnesium deficiency, if there is a
!hosphorous deficiency you may also notice symptoms such as brittle leaves or
greyish spots. To assist the uptake of !hosphorous =as well as most other
nutrients> you should ensure the pH is slightly acidic** 9.? will suffice.
Incr/asin! B/8a)/ 5)ants 6ro8 (//ds
'emember how a seedless=0insemilla> female plant is your ideal goal as a
growerC $ell, environmental factors begin influencing your plant#s se7 the
moment the seedling has three pairs of true leaves=cotyledons don#t count">
156
These factors areO
+u8idit,7 High humidity increases the chances of female plant
development. ;ow humidity increases male plants. ;ow grow medium
moisture also increases males. The same is valid for the moistness of the
seedbed.
T/8-/ratur/7 lower temperatures make for a larger number of female
mariuana plants, higher temperatures for more male mariuana plants.
i!"tin!7 .ore blue spectrum light energy increases the number of
females, whereas red light increases males. :ewer hours of
daylight=about 6/> increases the number of female plants. ;onger light
e7posure=63 hours+> will tend to make more male plants.
Nitro!/n7 Increasing the level of nitrogen=D> makes more female
plants, lowering creates more males.
5otassiu87 ;owering levels of potassium=E> encourages the
development of female plants, increasing potassium=E> increases the
male tendencies. =0o for the first two weeks a higher level of nitrogen
and a lower level of potassium will encourage female plants to develop.>
En0iron8/nta) (tr/ss. )ny environmental stress will greatly increase
the chances of male plants growing from your seed.
Co)our o6 i!"t7 more blue light makes for female cannabis plants from
seed, more red light makes for more male cannabis plants.
+ours o6 Da,)i!"t7 few hours of daylight=i.e. 6/ hours> makes for
more female individuals, a long day=i.e. 63 hours> makes for more male
cannabis plants.
(oa9in!7 0oaking your seed=s> in -ibberellic acid makes itFthem more
likely to produce a female plant.
157
5)ant (tr/ss
+annabis crops grow the fastest and produce the richest, heaviest harvest when
they are given a stable optimal growth environment. 0tressed plants produce
much less than unstressed plants. &7amples of common stress factors include,
but are not limited toJ lack of water, drowning of roots=too much water>,
ultraviolet light, nutrient to7icities, acidic e7posure, overly cold or hot growing
conditions=including soil and grow medium temperatures as well as air>,
photoperiod fluctuation, low light intensity, plant mutilation=from pruning too
much or too fast> etc.
0tress will greatly reduce growth. )lthough in some rare cases stress may
actually cause your plant to produce more resin, the slow inhibited odd growth
simply outweighs the e7tra resin advantage. .any new growers make the
mistake of removing their plants large green shade leaves thinking that it is
allowing light to shine on their lower leaves, enhancing growth. )lthough this is
good logic in theory, it is simply not the case. The aforementioned method will
cause growth as slow as molasses and greatly diminish harvest. Anly ever
remove leaves that are half damaged by burns, pests, death, or disease. )lso do
not make the newbie mistake of removing a yellowing leaf to early, oftentimes
once the stress is eliminated the plant will regain it#s vigor and health, including
it#s vibrant green coloration. :or ma7imum growth enhancement remove only
spindly, dimly lit lower branches. This stresses your plants very little and speeds
growth of the upper foliage. 0tress can also affect your plant#s se7.
158
T"/ & Co88on Cu)-rits o6 ()o$ 5)ant Gro$t"
1. i!"t D/-ri0ation7 )lthough your plant may be receiving light, particular
strains may re@uire higher light levels than others. ) recommended light level
for optimal full bud development is 5? wattsFm
1
. :ull sunlight is 6??,??? lumens
ma7.
%. i!"t s-/ctru87 ;ight that does not contain enough red spectrum=too
much blue>. ;ight spectrum can have a dramatic effect on plant growth, with
different light fre@uencies affecting different photosynthetic and various other
crucial processes within the leaf. 0electing a blue spectrum in a vegetative
growth phase is preferred, with red spectrum in flowering.
3. O0/rA$at/rin!7 0oil moisture that is not absorbed rapidly turns stagnantJ
the plant @uickly uses up any o7ygen within the water, then is unable to respire
further, resulting in moisture low in o7ygen. !ythium=a common plant problem>
thrives in low*o7ygen conditions. Aver*watering will slowly suffocate your roots,
preventing sufficient o7ygen uptake by the roots, and ultimately causing
dreaded root rot.
4. o$ Nutri/nt (tr/n!t"7 The plant is unable to ac@uire the necessary
amounts of nutrients to sustain high growth rates. ;arge and mature plants can
take higher nutrient strengths.
Not/7 Nutri/nt str/n!t" is a)so r/)at/d to t"/ )i!"t int/nsit,T -)ants und/r
6)uor/sc/nt )i!"ts usua)), r/Duir/ a )o$/r nutri/nt conc/ntration t"an und/r +IDs.
.. Nutri/nt oc9u-7 )dding too much of a nutrient =e7. .agnesium> can
lockup one or more nutrients, rendering them chemically unavailable to the
plant. Dutrient lockup can occur at e7treme pH ranges =ie. under 5.?, over 5.?>.
6. (oi) 'it" +i!" Bar9 Cont/nt7 Hark is very acidic and may affect soil water
pH. The roots will not be able to grow through the bark, preferring to grow
around the chunks of bark. This slows down root growth and most obviously
plant growth. Ance transplanted into proper soil, plants will show remarkable
recovery.
159
R. -+7 pH that is too high or too low=acidic soil> will result in plants that are
unable to absorb nutrients, or in ade@uate @uantities within certain pH ranges.
Aptimum pH varies with each mediumO
Hydroponics and aeroponicsO 5.9*5.3.
0oillessO 9.?*9.4
0oilO 9.5*5.?.
.any soilless mi7tures tend to be fairly acidic, due to their high P bark content.
#. o$ T/8-/ratur/s7 !lant metabolism will decrease at low temperatures.
+hemical reactions within the plant will take longer. Aptimum plant growth often
re@uires close temperature regulationJ daytime temperatures between 55*
39Y:=15*4?Y+> are preferred. 8ifferences in daytime and nighttime temperatures
should not be dramaticJ as this difference may shock the plant and stunt
growth.
&. o$ (oi) : M/diu8 T/8-/ratur/7 &vaporation from a medium=i.e. peat
pots> tends to chill the medium @uite a bit due primarily to the evaporation
cooling effect. )s the peat pot warms, it draws moisture outward, the
evaporation effect cools the peat=like sweating>. Dew growers often make the
mistake of adding e7cessive amounts of water, resulting in cold soil, poor root
formation and severely slowed growth.
5/stsC Bun!iC U Dis/as/s
>Bor co8-)/t/ -/st id/nti6icationC -r/0/ntionC and /)i8ination -)/as/
r/6/r to t"/ Cannabis Car/ Manua).?
161
Gro$in! 'it" (oi)
There are many benefits of growing mariuana in soil. :or one thing it is very
cheap and easy to get started right away if you cannot afford your hydroponic
system immediately=that can come later so rela7">. If you#re going to be
growing with hydroponics feel free to skip ahead, but be warnedJ a lot of great
information that applies to hydroponics can be learned in the following sections
as well. =If you are a total newbie, hydroponics is a growth system that doesn#t
use soil.>
It is of the opinion of many growers that soil is the only medium that can
produce the best tasting bud. 0oil tends to be more cost effective, forgiving and
simple for ine7perienced growers to manage.
0oil has some disadvantages though. It is difficult to ascertain and maintain
consistent and optimum moisture, nutrient and pH levels. It is more messy, and
one has to deal with things such as transplanting.
162
Contain/rs
+ontainers allow you to care for your mariuana plants each individually. $eak,
sick, and problematic plants can be easily removed from your garden. (ou can
grow your soil*based mariuana in virtually any container. &7amples include
troughs, pots, buckets, or the method of using a large growing container such
as a wooden bo7Fbed=the Mfull dirtN method> which allows your roots and plants
the ma7imum amount of space. .any veteran organic cannabis cultivators
swear by this bed method when growing in soil.
.ake sure your containers are a solid color, preferably black. This will ensure no
light reaches your roots, and this is a critical step to ensure flourishing growth.
163
Hecause you will probably want to move and rotate your plants from time to
time, you will most likely want some sort of container that is portable and
lightweight. (our primary concern is siBe. (ou will probably start off using small
pots for young plants, and soon transplant them to larger pots. 0tarting with
smaller pots for smaller plants will allow you to fit more plants in a smaller grow
area=wow I said MsmallerN a lot>. The pot siBe that works best for growing
mariuana in soil are large 4 K / gallon ones=a / foot plant will be very happy in
a / gallon container">. +annabis tends to grow very long roots, so the large
growing pots are essential. The two most common containers are plastic pots,
and growing bags. The two are both light and ine7pensive.
(ou can also purchase or make your own plastic containers to put the soil in.
(ou can really use anything that hasn#t had chemicals stored in it, ust make
sure the containers are clean. The height of the planting container should be 61
to 19 inches. The width should be appro7imately 61 inches. 0ame goes for
depth. -rowers agreeJ 4K9 gallon containers work best. (ou will need enough
soil to fill each container to within /*9 inches of the top.
164
Not/7 A 2ussian stud, s"o$/d t"at s//d)in!s $it" at )/ast 4V o6 soi) to !ro$ t"/
ta-root $/r/ 8or/ )i9/), to !o 6/8a)/. T"is 8a, b/ $", so8/ 6ar8/rs !/t
6/8a)/:8a)/ ratios as !r/at as #*G:%*G.
$hen picking a container it is important start in as large a container as possible,
s@uare is best. 69 ounce plastic cups work AE, and 1 litter soda bottles cut
down may be big enough for the first harvest when growing hydroponically.
Ane*gallon plastic milk or water containers=s@uarish> will work too.
(ou can also start seeds and rooted cuttings in 69 oB plastic cups. It#s better to
have fewer seedlings than it is to have many seedlings that need constant
transplanting. These larger cups take only a little more space, and allow you to
transplant only one time before harvesting the first crop.
De7t step is to add drainage holes at the bottom of the containers if they do not
have them already. The holes need to be large enough for e7cess water to drain
out, but small enough so no soil washes away. !lace your container or pot on a
dish so the e7cess water can be collected in the dish then emptied to avoid
e7cessive messing.
Gsing a pot or container with perforated holes in the bottom is actually a safety
net and is not used by e7perienced growers. The holes prevent over*watering
your plants which costs you time, nutrients, and can even kill your crop. These
perforated holes also supply good air to your plant#s roots. In time you will be
able to determine the e7act amount of water to add so you never over*water
your cannabis plants.
165
0ome last wordsJ clean your pot or container out thoroughly before use. .ake
sure it#s clean" )lso make sure not to place more than one plant per pot. This
ensures each plant you grow gets the optimum nutrients and water, and also if
you happen to screw up on one your mistake wont affect multiple plants.
Not/7 I6 usin! a us/d contain/r b/ sur/ to st/ri)i=/ it $it" "ot $at/r and b)/ac".
N/0/r us/ contain/rs t"at onc/ "ad c"/8ica)s in t"/8.
(-acin!
The amount of space a plant needs depends solely on the height the plant will
grow. :or e7ample an 3 foot plant will be wider than / foot plant, and so forth.
'emember, as a mariuana grower you should be interested in beautiful buds,
not beautiful plants. Higger is not necessarily better when growing mariuana.
)llow plants to be spaced to allow for ade@uate side growth. -enerally 6 or 1
s@uare feet per plant.
Gro$ M/diu8
There is no one perfect soil=growing medium> for mariuana. The two main
important factors to take into consideration are the te7ture of the soil and the
nutrient content=fertiliBers>. .any growers never spend a lot of money on soil,
and they cut down on it. +heap soil lacks good nutrients and a stable pH level.
It#s a good idea to purchase it locally, due to soil being very heavy. ) premium
potting soil works fine. 0tay away from soils with a lot of bark dust in them as
these tend to be way too acidic. )lso stay away from anything that is a heavy
clay. ) nice, light potting mi7 is what you are going for. Ideally you should mi7
your own though.
166
There are three main factors to consider when buying soil. These are the
Te7ture, Dutrient +ontent=fertiliBers>, and pH level. +omplete, balanced,
organic*based soil produces the most healthy viable delicious crops. Arganic
soils contain bacteria populations that support plant growth. They literally
contain MaliveN elements in the soil that assist in various growing abilities of
cannabis crops. Arganically grown pot also has more flavor and taste than pot
grown on synthetic salt*based products. )lso later in the plant#s life cycle it will
produce more mature, healthy, viable seeds.
167
$hen growing, for each foot of growth, a ^ gallon of growing medium is
re@uired=provided fertiliBers are applied during the growing period>.
&7ampleO
1ft. !lant K 6 T -);
5ft. !lant K 4 T -);
6?ft. !lant K 5 T -);
Ideally the soil should range between 9?*5?Y:=65.5*1<Y+>. )nything above that,
you will have fungus trouble, insect problems, rotting roots etc.
T/4tur/
Te7ture of your soil should be course, light, and spongy to allow drainage,
sufficient moisture, and proper air circulation. Head to your local hardware F
gardening supply store and ask around for a potting soil for growing vegetables
indoors e7tremely fast. The salesperson will most definitely point you in the
right direction and recommend the best brand they have available.
T"in!s to )oo9 6or7 .ake sure the soil becomes fluffy when moistened, in
other words, it doesn#t clump together if you gently s@ueeBe it in your hand.
The medium must be heavy enough for the roots to take a firm hold, but light
enough for them to be able to push their way through and for air to be present.
It also needs to allow for a good balance between water retention and drainage.
Too much water retention will lock up the fresh air the roots need, causing them
to rot. Dot enough retention will leave the soil too dry making it difficult for the
roots to obtain nutrients.
0ome soil is labeled wet, and others are labeled dry. Try to find a middleman. If
the soil gets too wet and muddy it will drown your roots and they will not be
able to get any o7ygen and breathe. If the soil is too dry it will dry up @uickly
and re@uire fre@uent watering. Try to get organic soil if it is available, as this is
the best due to it being pesticide and chemical free. If you#re confused, rela7,
ust try to get something that is medium*soft. The store employees are usually
really helpful" 0tay away from heavy wood products that contain very few
nutrients, or are way too moist etc.
168
T/stin! (oi)7 Here#s a simple test to determine optimum soil structure.
0@ueeBe some soil in your hand to form a clump. The clod should break apart
when poked. If the clod stays together, you can add vermiculite, perlite,
gardener#s sand, etc. 0oil mi7es that are made up of peat moss, vermiculite, and
perlite have no nutritional value and are pH balanced=neutral> so it is like
starting with a clean slate. (ou will then need to provide all the fertiliBer.
'emember, soils only purpose is to supply a growth medium for the plant#s
roots. The nutrients and water is what the plant needs for e7cellent growth.
'arnin!7 N/0/r r/us/ soi). 5at"o!/ns and to4ins $i)) conta8inat/ soi)
o0/r ti8/. (tart n/$ cro-s $it" soi).
169
A8/nd8/nts
0oil amendments increase the soil#s air, water, and nutrient retaining abilities.
These remain very close to neutral on the pH scale and contain few, if any
nutrients. Gsing a mi7ture of peat moss, perlite, and vermicuite will ensure
these needs are met.
:ollow the instructions when adding these ingredients to your grow
medium=soil> so you don#t end up causing any unwanted effects. -enerally you
will mi7 these three ingredients in e@ual amounts. Hy adding more perlite the
mi7 will be more airy and drain faster. )dding more vermiculite water retention
will be greater and watering can be done less often. Gse a mi7 that best suits
your needs.
Not/7 Or!anic soi) a8/nd8/nts suc" as coco 6ib/rC -/at 8ossC and co8-ost
contain carbonC 6ood>t"/, su--), nutri/nts?C and bact/ria) acti0it,.
170
0oil amendments are added to a planting medium in order to provide plants
with various nutrients. Here is a comprehensive listingO
Guano * 8ried e7cretory wastes=poo>. .ay be derived either from bats
or birds. -uano is available in high Ditrogen, high !hosphorous and
balanced formulations. -uano will burn your plants, so use
conservatively.
'or8 Castin!s * $orm poo. )n e7cellent source of micronutrients.
)lso functions as a supplemental source of Ditrogen. +astings ought to
be in every soilless mi7. They will not burn your plants, and, when cut
with perlite and vermiculite, make a fine medium in their own right.
Bon/ M/a) * )s the name implies, this is ground up bones from the
slaughter house. Hone meal provides phosphorous. He careful * will
attract animals to your grow if used outside. $ill attract pets if used
inside.
B)ood M/a) * )gain, made from animal blood on the slaughter house
floor. ) source of nitrogen. )lso, attracts animals to your grow.
!articularly odoriferous. Hlood meal will burn your plants, so use
conservatively.
J/)- M/a) * .ade from dried and ground seaweed. If made from
ascophyllum nodosum, provides a growth hormone which promotes
rapid growth of both roots and foliage. )lso contains trace elements and
enBymes.
5/r)it/ * ) non*porous volcanic byproduct, perlite is pH neutral and
improves the drainage of planting mediums.
</r8icu)it/ * ) porous volcanic byproduct, capable of nutrient and
cation e7change.
Do)o8it/ i8/ * :re@uently used in planting mediums to offset acidity,
that is, lime raises pH. 8olomite lime is slower acting and more buffered
than hydrated lime.
171
(oi))/ss Mi4/s
)s the name impliesJ a soilless mi7 is a mi7ture of components in which it is
possible to grow a plant but which does not contain soil in the traditional sense,
that is, no garden soil or compost. 0oilless mediums can contain peat moss as
an ingredient along with worm castings, perlite, etc.
Here is a simple e7ample of a 0oilless mi7O
5?P !erlite
5?P 2ermiculite
Here#s anotherO
/?P $orm +astings
4?P !erlite
4?P 2ermiculite
0oilless mi7es are great, but can cause problems. If you happen to miss a
couple of waterings the plant can dry out very @uickly. This is because the mi7
will not hold much moisture. 0oil is much easier and will provide nutrients
throughout the grow, lessening the need for fertiliBers.
Bac9,ard (oi)
.any growers often in@uire if they can use backyard soil. The answer is yes and
no. Hackyard soil contains weed=the bad kind> seeds and pathogens. 0oil can be
steriliBed and weed seeds killed by baking the soil in a hot oven 4<1Y:=1??Y+>
until the core of your lump reaches 6/?*161Y:=9?*6??Y+>. and is maintained
there for a while.
Hut, baking a lump of garden soil will release pungent smells into your kitchen.
Gnless you have a spare oven out in the garage, you might skip this one and
ust use commercially made potting soils. 0ome have had success with this
method by adding some !erlite, vermiculite, worm castings, bone meal, chicken
manure=or compost, generally> to it.
172
In general it is not recommended. 0tick with the other mediums.
Trans-)antin!
Ance your plant becomes too big for its container, its growth becomes severely
stunted due to the cramped root system. +hanging to larger pots=transplanting>
allows the root systems to grow very large inside the new container, supporting
healthy flourishing vigorous plant growth. (ou see, small containers hinders the
growth of your plants root system which will cause sickly stunted growth and
sickly wilted weak plants, so transplanting is absolutely crucial. 0tarting seeds
and clones in cubes or peat pots makes them super easy to transplant.
(ou know your crop is ready to transplant when strong healthy white roots are
surrounding the entire outside of the grow medium. To do this remove the plant
from its pot and e7amine its roots to see if they are deeply matted on the
bottom and surrounding sides of the pot. 'oots should be everywhere around
the edge of the container.
Ideally you should initiate the traumatic process of transplanting your crop when
it is in its healthiest, strongest state.
173
Eeep in mind transplanting is the second most stressful procedure as plant can
undergo other than cloning. 'oots thrive in a dark, moist secure environment.
$hen roots are taken out and are in contact with light, air, or human hands too
long they dry up and die. $hen you transplant your primary goal should be to
upset the roots as little as possible, be very careful" Eeep the entire grow
medium and root area moist so that they don#t dry out.
It is best to transplant at night so that your plants have a full night of rest to
recover. Dewly transplanted crops need subdued light at first so that the foliage
grows at a slower rate, enabling the roots to supply sufficient water and
nutrients. To help your transplanted mariuana plants, give them filtered less*
intense light for a couple of days. ) fluorescent light, if available, is a good
substitute lighting source for a couple days for transplanted plants.
'A2NING7 A)$a,s trans-)ant into t"/ sa8/C or si8i)ar t,-/ o6 !ro$
8/diu8111 I6 ,ou 6ai) to 6o))o$ t"is ad0ic/ a $at/r -r/ssur/ di66/r/ntia)
cou)d d/0/)o- b/t$//n t"/ t$o di66/r/nt 8/diu8s $"ic" $i)) s)o$
$at/r 8o0/8/nt and caus/ stunt/d s)o$ root !ro$t".
B//din!
)s far as nutrients go, transplanted cannabis plants re@uire low levels of
D=nitrogen> and E=potassium> and high levels of !=phosphorus> for ma7imum
success. )lso, as mentioned in the +loning section, any commercially available
product that contains trichoderma bacteria will greatly help ease transplantation
plant shock. (ou don#t have to worry about this if you follow the following steps
carefully, take special concern not to disturb your plants roots, and give it
ade@uate rest=transplant at night>J there will be Bero symptoms of transplant
shock or wilting.
Not/7 I6 ,ou $ant ,our roots to d/0/)o- a d/ns/C "/a)t",C 0i!orous root s,st/8C
t"/n it is b/st to trans-)ant t"/8 2IG+T BEBO2E t"/, "a0/ out!ro$n t"/ir
contain/r.
174
Transplanting slows you down. It takes time, it#s tricky, it#s hard work, and
threatens the plants. There will be little or no shock if you are @uick and tender
in your handling of the plants. .ake sure you only need to transplant twice, or
better yet, once if possible, through the entire growth cycle. !ick the right
containers.
Trans-)antin! (t/-Ab,A(t/-
(t/- 1? :irst soak the entire grow medium and wait several minutes for the
e7cess water to drain.
(t/- %? !repare the larger container by making a moist layer of grow medium
at the bottom.
(t/- 3? -ently flip the plant upside down and gently place it in the new
container. :ill the outer edges with more soil and finish by soaking the entire
container again=a mild trichoderma + vitamin H solution is best>. .ake sure you
make a good strong contact with the root edges and your new grow medium.
175
Not/7 Contain/rs t"at "a0/ t"/ sa8/ $idt" on t"/ to- and botto8 ar/ id/a) 6or
/as, trans-)antin! succ/ss.
Ance transplanted your plant will immediately re@uire low levels of nitrogen and
potassium, and increased levels of phosphorus. $ater and nutrient absorption is
slowed as the plants get used to their new grow environment. Transplant during
the evening so plants have all night to recover. To minimiBe shock, you may also
want to give your transplanted crop filtered, less intense light for ust a couple
of days, then from there it#s smooth sailing.
Ma4i8i=in! 2oot Gro$t" in (oi) Contain/rs
0pace is one of the maor concerns for indoor growers, who generally cannot
move to bigger and bigger pots to allow for bigger root masses. ) lot of
container space often goes unused, because roots will not grow into the top
inches of soil that are often dried out from powerful lights and low humidity.
0ince mariuana soils are typically very airy and light, the top inches of soil are
easily disturbed when watering as the dirt is pushed and moved around by the
water. This inhibits roots from growing into the top inches of soil too.
0ay for e7ample in a one foot tall pot the top three inches of soil will not allow
root growth, you are wasting 15P of your soil mass that could be used for
roots" In pots that are wider at the top than the bottom, this wasted soil could
be even greater.
(ou need to prevent the soil from being disturbed and keep it moist. (ou can
use a cool little techni@ue to do this. Hydro growers have been using an ideal
product for similar purposes for a long time * Hydroton clay balls. Hydroton clay
balls are very light. They won#t compact your soil the way putting pebbles on
top would. ) layer of hydroton clay balls on top of the soil will help the soil
underneath it lose moisture through evaporation and low humidity.
176
Hy adding a layer of hydroton on top of the soil, soil disturbance is prevented
since the water does not directly touch the soil until it has filtered through the
layer of hydroton balls. 0oil moisture is then trapped underneath the hydroton
and less likely to evaporate due to heat andFor low humidity.
This way it is possible to grow plants with roots stretching up all the way to the
top of the soil. Those roots will rapidly provide nutrition to the plant when it is
watered. It also will help the plant be able to go a longer time without watering
since moisture that would have been lost to evaporation is now available to the
plant.
Not/7 A stron! root 8ass is critica) in 6)o$/rin! i6 ,ou $ant to r/a- a bi! 6rost,
"ar0/st. 'i8-, roots W $i8-, ,i/)ds.
O4,!/n
!roper o7ygen supply to the roots is a big concern, since the plant re@uires this
for nutrients to be available, and to rid itself of to7ins, etc. Ane of the easiest
things to do is use food grade hydrogen pero7ide in the water to increase the
availability of o7ygen in the water. H1A1 has an e7tra o7ygen atom that will
177
easily break away and can be used by the plant. +ertain commercially*available
additives such as A7ygen !lus are plant foods that contain 15P hydrogen
pero7ide and is perfect for this use.
Gsing a planting medium that allows for plenty of aeration is also really
important. He sure you have good drainage by using perlite, sand, or gravel in
your mi7 and at the bottom of pots. 8on#t use a medium that holds too much
water, or you may significantly reduce the o7ygen available to the plant L
suffocate it. )erating the water before watering is also a good idea. In the case
of soil potted plants, use an air pump to aerate the water overnight before
watering your plants, or if you#re on a budgetJ put the water in a container with
a cap and shake it up really good before giving it to the plants.
B/rti)i=/rs
Hasically you need two kinds of fertiliBers when growing mariuana. Ane for
vegetative growth, and one for flowering.
</!/tati0/ Gro$t"7 needs high amounts of nitrogen, ade@uate calcium,
magnesium, and trace elements.
B)o$/rin!7 needs low amounts of nitrogen, high potassium L phosphorus,
ade@uate calcium, magnesium and trace elements.
.ost soils and potting mi7tures available in nurseries are fortified with nutrients.
These mi7tures should provide enough nutrition for mariuana for several
weeks. )fter this you will need to add fertiliBer. (ou will get the biggest harvest
possible if you give all your plants e7actly what they need, and DA .A'&.
!lants growing in containers have a limited amount of nutrients in the soil. Their
growth and health is curtailed until more nutrients become available to them.
The solution to this problem is then to supply the missing nutrients. It is easiest
for growers to use a high*@uality, prepackaged, steriliBed mi7ture. .odern
potting mi7 is made of many ingredients. &ach brand is different. 'emember
unless the fertiliBer is added the plant will have no nutrients.
178
8uring the different growth phases you will want different concentrations of
these nutrients. 8uring vegetative growth you will want high nitrogen and low
phosphorus and during flowering you will want high phosphorus and lower
nitrogen.
'A2NING7 B/$ar/ o6 -ottin! 8i4/s $it" ti8/Ar/)/as/d 6/rti)i=/rs.
T"/, $i)) 8a9/ it 0/r, di66icu)t to jud!/ $"at is a0ai)ab)/ to t"/ -)ant
at an, !i0/n ti8/ and ar/ not r/co88/nd/d to us/.
Gro$in! Or!anic
In many countries it is illegal to grow medical mariuana. .any suffering sick
people rely upon the positive effects of mariuana to help soothe their various
dis*eases and ailments. I have personally witnessed the incredible oy and
healing this magical herb can provide for patients in need.
In order to obtain their precious herb, these people must rely solely on third
party growers that supply the medical mariuana distribution facilities. This may
be you" !atients depend on your e7pertise and ethics to supply them with high*
179
@uality medicine, 6??P free from contaminants such as pests or chemical
to7ins. It is your duty to supply the best organically grown mariuana to those in
need. )n organic grower#s goal is to cultivate top @uality organic
pharmaceutical*grade mariuana.
Not/7 I6 -/sts do "a--/n to in0ad/ ,our or!anic !ard/nC inst/ad o6
usin! t"os/ "ars" c"/8ica)s ,ou can us/ a)t/rnat/ natura) -/sticid/
so)utions suc" as oi)sC soa-sC and biocontro)s.
In order to grow the healthiest plants possible you must honor the basics. Too
often do people look for the flashy techni@ues, tips, and tactics, when rather if
they ust followed and mastered the basics of cannabis cultivation their bud
@uality and yield would increase naturally" The basics of light, water, air, and
nutrients must be very carefully and properly maintained. 0imple as they may
seem, these are the building blocks of great cannabis and the foundational skills
mastered and deployed by veteran growers. The flashy tips and tactics come
only ):T&' you master the basics of cannabis cultivation.
180
C"/8ica) 0s Or!anic
Wuality is the most important aspect to growing mariuana. (ou can only grow
top @uality mariuana in soil using organic biological fertiliBers. .any growers
agree that organic fertiliBers are best as they produce a delicious better tasting
bud than chemical fertiliBers. Huds grown from organic soil and products ust
taste so much better. -rowing organic mariuana is also essential for medicinal
cultivation purposes.
)lso with organic fertiliBers plants cannot be over*fertiliBed. +hemically*based
fertiliBers are precise, sterile, and simple to administer. Hut, organic fertiliBers on
the other hand are not always as simple to use, and usually tend to have foul
unpleasant odors. !lants grown with organic fertiliBers will produce slightly more
bud and it will be of legendary @uality in terms of taste, aroma, and potency.
$orm castings and bat guano are the two of the most effective fertiliBers. These
contain a dense amount of nutritional content that the plants will consume to
supercharge their growth. They are mi7ed with water and applied twice a week.
If you want the upmost top*shelf @uality buds when growing in soil with high
yields, these are +'G+I);. -et your hands on these awesome fertiliBers
immediately, you will love the results they produce for you.
However, some growers argue that the plant MmaterialN that the plant uses to
grow is identical in structure and content regardless of which method you use.
The plant only uses basic building blocks, taking molecules from the air and the
nutrients and assembling them into the organic plant matter. The by*product of
this process is o7ygen. The real=practical> difference between organic and
inorganic growing is how the raw materials are provided.
)n organic grower will use larger elements that will be broken down by a
system of organisms living in the nutrient solutionFgrow medium or the soil. )n
inorganic grower uses nutrients that are already broken down into a form that
the plant can utiliBe. Don*organic nutrients might contain organic components.
:or instance, many fertiliBers intended for soil will include urea nitrogen. This
nitrogen re@uires micro*organisms to break it down before the plant can use it.
181
These organisms won#t thrive without soil so these fertiliBers may not work in
hydroponic systems.
There are hydroponic mi7tures that are organic and there are those which are
not. &ither way, you have control over what you feed your plants and can insure
that no harmful pesticides or other chemicals are used in growing your own
mariuana. !rovided you flush your plants properly they won#t contain any of the
nutrient solution so the actual plant material that results should be the same.
0o to sum things up...
C"/8ica) Nutri/nts
5ros7
*!ermits precise adustments and formulations with high element availability and
purity.
Cons7
*Health concern @uestions regarding buildup of heavy metal impurities and
residual taste. )lso the waste from hydroponic reservoirs can contaminate the
area#s ground water.
Or!anic Nutri/nts
5ros7
A)ddition of live and beneficial compounds much improves the aroma, flavor
and resin.
Cons7
A8ifficult to ascertain e7act amounts of re@uired nutrients.
182
Nutri/nts
)ll plant food is measured in the D*!*E formatO
=D> for Ditrogen
=!> for !hosphorus
=E> for !otassium
Nitro!/n>N?7 Gsed to build proteins and chlorophyll. It is responsible for
leaves, stems, and overall siBe L growing other plant elements.
DitrogenO
.ost essential nutrient.
Deeded for stem and leaf growth.
!rovide lots of nitrogen during vegetation.
Ditrogen deficiencies will result in yellow leaves=some yellow leaves do
appear and are because of a nitrogen deficiency>.
Not/7 Durin! 0/!/tation us/ a )ot o6 nitro!/n to /nsur/ !r/at !ro$t". But durin!
6)o$/rin! ta-/r o66 t"/ nitro!/n to /nsur/ bud !ro$t" and a0oid unn/c/ssar,
)/a6, buds.
5"os-"orus>5?7 Gsed to photosynthesis, respiration, and creating energy
compounds to help the plants develop efficiently. It is also a critical factor for
healthy seed and bud production. 8uring flowering is when you provide more
phosphorus than any other nutrient.
!hosphorusO
+rucial for bud, flower, and seed production
!rovide more phosphorus than nitrogen during flowering
183
5otassiu8>J?7 Gsed to build and transfer sugars. It is also important for water
and nutrient absorption. !otassium assists in the growing of strong sturdy
stems, root growth, and helps fight off disease.
!otassiumO
Helps with nutrient absorption, aiding in faster, better growth.
!rovide a relatively steady, moderate amount of potassium throughout
the plant#s entire life cycle.
)t different stages of growth you will emphasiBe different elements. The three
numbers on your fertiliBer is the percentage the fertiliBer contains of these three
primary nutrients. ) 65*65*65 solution contains 65P Ditrogen, 65P
!hosphorus, 65P !otassium. 1?*6?*5 solution contains 1?P Ditrogen, 6?P
!hosphorus, 5P !otassium. The remaining percentage of the solution makes up
the rest of the soil material.
D*!*E can come included within the actual soil or in a separate stand*alone
fertiliBer.
+annabis plants grow best with a good level of Ditrogen and a normal level of
!hosphorus and !otassium during vegetative growth. (ou#re going to need to
pick a bag that has all three, not ust a 6?*1?*? ratio. There are a lot of D*!*E
ratio variety out there but the 61*61*61 and 1?*1?*1? are the best ones to find.
0omething like 3*1?*1? is not suitable for vegetative growth. Hags with higher
!hosphorus are for flowering plants. The method is never to transplant to a new
soil with higher phosphorus levels, instead we simply use plant food to bring up
the !hosphorus levels during the flowering phase.
MicroANutri/nts
)s well as D*!*E there are also secondary supplements. These are +alcium=+a>,
.agnesium=.g>, and 0ulfur=0> * aka +a.g0. 0econdary supplements can
oftentimes be found within the soil but sometimes not all of them are present.
In addition to secondary supplements there are also micro*nutrients. These are
Binc, iron, manganese, boron, chlorine, cobalt, copper, molybdenum, selenium,
184
sulfur, and silicon. (ou can purchase a formula for these. 8on#t worry too too
much about micro*nutrients as when compared to the big three, they do very
little to affect your plant#s overall health, the primary D*!*E and +a.g0 nutrients
are the most important and newer growers should focus their energies on
mastering these three levels first.
+heck your bag to see if it has secondary supplements included.
Or!anic B/rti)i=/rs N5J <a)u/s>and a8ounts to us/?
Here is a list of common organic fertiliBers, D!E values and how much to use
per s@uare foot of gardenO
BE2TIIIE2 >NA5AJ? TY5E U(E
Hlood meal =61*?*?> :ast 'elease 6?gFs@. ft.
+orn -luten =9*?*?> )verage 'elease 65gFs@. ft.
+ompost =6*6*6> 0low 'elease 615gFs@. ft.
Hird -uano =6?*4*6 variable> :ast 'elease 15gFs@. ft.
+ow .anure =1*?*? variable> )verage 'elease 9?gFs@. ft.
Horse .anure =5*1.5*9 variable> )verage 'elease 1?gFs@. ft.
0oybean .eal =9*6.5*1> )verage 'elease 1?gFs@. ft.
$orm +astings =6*?*?> 0low 'elease 65?gFs@. ft.
Eelp =6*?.1*1> :ast 'elease 65gFs@. ft.
Insect manure =/*4*1> :ast 'elease 45gFs@. ft.
:ish emulsion =5*1*1 li@uid> :ast 'elease 6mlFs@. ft.
+ottonseed meal =9*1*1> )verage 'elease 1?gFs@. ft.
Hone meal =1*66*?> 0low 'elease 15gFs@. ft.
)lfalfa !ellets =4*6*1> )verage 'elease /?gFs@. ft.
Not/7 Bird and Bat !uano "a0/ 0ariab)/ co8-ounds and can b/ 0/r, ric" in
5"os-"orous >5/ru0ian:C"i)/ s/abird !uanoC 6or instanc/?. 5ou)tr, 8anur/ is a)so
8or/ ba)anc/d. 'or8 castin!s and co8-osts ar/ )o$ in nutri/nts and ar/
consid/r/d 8or/ )i9/ soi) a8/nd8/nts t"an 6/rts. Co$ 8anur/ and +ors/ 8anur/
s"ou)d b/ co8-ost/d. DonKt us/ 6r/s" cra-. (/$a!/ s)ud!/s s"ou)d n/0/r b/ us/d.
185
'A2NING7 Do not o0/rA6/rti)i=/. It $i)) 9i)) ,our -)ants. A)$a,s r/ad
t"/ instructions 6or t"/ 6/rti)i=/r b/in! us/d. Us/ P str/n!t" i6 addin!
to t"/ $at/r 6or a)) 6//din!s in soi) or ",dro-onics i6 ,ou ar/ unsur/ o6
$"at ,our -)ants can ta9/. Bui)d u- s)o$), to "i!"/r conc/ntrations o6
6ood o0/r ti8/. No0ic/ soi) !ro$/rs t/nd to o0/r 6/rti)i=/ t"/ir -)ants.
Min/ra) sa)ts bui)d u- o0/r ti8/ to "i!"/r )/0/)s o6 disso)0/d so)ids.
Us/ strai!"t $at/r 6or on/ 6//din! in ",dro-onics i6 it is b/)i/0/d t"at
t"/ bui)d u- is !/ttin! too !r/at. /ac" -)ants in -ots /0/r, 8ont". I6
,our -)ants )oo9 2EAY !r//nC $it""o)d 6ood 6or a $"i)/ to b/ sur/
t"/, ar/ not b/in! o0/rA6/d.
B//din!
:eeding your plant is basically resupplying the nutrients that the plant has
absorbed to aid in it#s growing processes. Throughout your entire plants growth
cycle you will only need 4 different types of feeding solutions. !lants deficient in
any type of the maor primary three =D*!*E> nutrients will not develop.
Averfeeding plants is probably the most common mistake made by novice
growers. Averfeeding can harm plants severely so make 0G'& you properly read
the instructions on your product label.
The first feeding solution you#re gonna need is a bottle where the D*!*E has
e@ual or higher levels of D than ! L E.
The second feeding solution you will need is a bottle that has higher levels of !
than D and E.
The third solution you will need is a bottle of secondary nutrients.
Anly ever feed your plants when they need it" (ou should never have to feed
your plants once a day. )lso be sure to never mi7 your solution at 6??P, the
mariuana plants are sensitive and they can burn easily. +heck the label for
recommended dilution and feeding levels. =:or e7ample 6 cap full per 4 gallons
of water is pretty standard.> 8uring flowering simply switch the feeding bottle
over to the one with the D*!*E, where ! has higher levels than D and E.
186
Not/7 Bor /n"ancin! -)ant !ro$t"C onc/ /0/r, 3 $//9s add t"/ 8ost i8-ortant
s/condar, nutri/nt o6 M!>Ma!n/siu8? to ,our -)ant. T"is can b/ don/ /asi), b,
usin! E-so8 sa)tC as it is 0/r, ric" in M!. To do t"is si8-), 6//d ,our -)ant a 1:3
s-oon6u) o6 E-so8 sa)ts -/r 3 !a))ons o6 $at/r onc/ /0/r, 3 $//9s.
:eeding must be done throughout the entire plant#s life cycle to ensure optimal
flourishing growth. )dminister properly as dictated by your product#s
instructions. :ollowing directions is critical and will save you from much stress
and frustration further down the line.
Or!anic B/rti)i=/r (u-/r Gro$ T/a
Here#s a recipe for an organic tea fertiliBer. I would suggest this when your
leaves show signs of yellowing. It often means lack of D =nitrogen> and store
bought chemical fertiliBers don#t always do the trick, plus they build up salts in
the soil.
Try thisO
(t/- 1? !ut 1 cups of high*nitrogen bat or seabird guano=found at your local
garden center or nursery> in the corner of a cloth bag, old pillowcases are
perfect.
(t/- %? Tie it in a knot around a stick and suspend it in a 5*gallon bucket of
fresh=preferably distilled> water. It is now like a tea bag. %ust shake the tea bag
around several times a day. It should emit a dark secretion from the bag. )fter 1
days the water should be pretty dark.
(t/- 3? Take out the tea bag and dispose of it, or rinse it out to be reused. Gse
this dark water at a rate of 6*1 cups per gallon of fresh water and mi7 it up.
This will give you a QteaQ to water your plants with. Gse it to water once, and
then wait a few days to see if your plants like it. (ou can use this high Ditrogen
tea whenever your plants tell you they need it=yellowing leaves>.
To make a potent flowering tea for frosty heavy bud development, use the same
steps but replace the high*nitrogen guano with high*phosphorous guano.
It will provide the essential nutrients for a long time before your girls tell you
187
they need something, by showing symptoms of deficiency. (ou can also use
either tea more fre@uently, according to the growth rate of your plants, to
greatly increase growth rate and flowering.
'A2NING7 N/0/r 6/rti)i=/ t"/ -)ant just b/6or/ ,ou ar/ !oin! to
"ar0/st it sinc/ t"/ 6/rti)i=/r $i)) /ncoura!/ 6o)ia!/ -roduction and
s)o$ do$n r/sin -roduction.
'or8 Castin!s
) word here about the most organic of fertiliBersO worm
castings. $orms are raised commercially for sale to
gardeners. The breeders put the worms in organic compost
mi7tures and while the worms are reproducing they eat the
organic matter and e7pel some of the best cannabis food
around. )fter the worms have eaten all the organic matter in the compost, they
are removed and sold and the remains are then sold as worm castings. These
castings are so rich that you can grow cannabis in pure worm castings. This isn#t
really necessary however, and it is somewhat impractical since the castings are
very e7pensive. If you can afford them you can, however, blend them in with
your soil and they will make a very good organic fertiliBer.
$orm castings contain many beneficial bacteria. These bacteria are responsible
for turning ammonium in soil into nitrates. Ditrates are the most easily used
form of nitrogen for the plants. )s well as containing these beneficial bacteria,
they also contain amino acids which help in the growth and development of
your plants. :or hydroponics, worm castings are available in li@uid form to cover
all stages of plant development or additives to give your plants an added boost.
$orm castings are a cost efficient way of supplying the needed nutrients to the
plants and in most places are readily available.
$orms improve soil airation due to their tunneling actionJ this keeps the soil
loose. The worms will stick around so long as there is enough organic matter for
them to digest, especially if you add blood and bone meal, or other various
organic fertiliBers. If the worms are crawling out of your medium, then its time
to add organic fert or transplant into a more organic decomposing medium.
188
'", 'or8 Castin!s Ar/ a B/n/6icia) (oi) Additi0/7
6?P worm casting in soil mi7 improves germination rates, plant growth,
and gives them a healthy appearance.
-reat fertiliBer that can be used a lot but wont burn the plant.
Hold water and give nutrients in a consistent natural way.
Introduce micro organisms to the soil, increasing disease resistance.
+astings also contain plant growth hormones.
Ma9in! Your O$n 'or8 Castin!s
.aking your own worm castings is a lengthy process and takes anywhere from
9 months up to 1 years, depending on comparison to how much decomposed
matter vs number of worms you have. Hut it is well worth it. This method takes
a little time, but then again, a little time and effort will certainly beat the store
prices"
'"ic" 'or8 (-/ci/s To Us/
The best worms to use for homemade worm castings are 'ed $rigglers, a
common worm that can be almost found anywhere. Dight +rawlers can also be
189
used * they are much larger and also eat a lot more than the wrigglers. (ou can
find Dight +rawlers easily around your yard.
'"at Co8-ost To Us/
'aw scraps are indigestible, and must be broken down first by bacteria. $orms
are better able to digest and process organic scraps that have been pre*
decomposed.
Co$ 8anur/7 +ows are poor digesters, they only digest about 65P of what
they eat, leaving another 35P of the stuff an organic sludgeJ worms absolutely
love cow manure" It is better to have the manure pre*decomposted prior to the
vermicomposting. +onsider cow manure an essential ingredient.
An, 0/!/tab)/:6ruit scra-s7 'ecycle your food waste" Take your scraps, and
place them in a blender, mi7 it around for a couple seconds. .i7ing makes it
easier and faster for the scraps to decompose and makes it easier to mi7 in with
other ingredients for a blend.
Dr, )/a0/sC !rass c)i--in!sC rottin! $ood7 These ingredients take a bit
longer to decompose, but they seem to be richer in the end. )nything you rake
up for your lawn is great.
Not/7 8/at scra-s and sauc/s t/nd to 8a9/ t"in!s a )itt)/ too rancid and stin9,C as
$/)) as attract 6)i/s and -/sts. J//- to 0/!/tab)/ scra-s.
Mat/ria)s and Dir/ctions
Here is a list of the materials you will needO
6. ) standard 'ubbermaid tub =65 gal>
1. 5?*65? worms, the more the better.
4. (our decomposing matter
/. $ater spray bottle
190
Dir/ctions
Take your pre*decomposed matter and fill up your tub with it=up to 9 inches
from the top of the tub, so the worms can#t escape>. &ven it out gently.
Dow take your worms, and place around the edges of the tub * the worms will
dig down and eventually find their way into the soil.
Maint/nanc/
0pray water on the surface of the scraps to keep everything moist=including the
worms>. Typically, you can do this about twice a day. There is no turning, or
sifting re@uired, as the worms will do all the work.
+ar0/stin! t"/ 'or8 Castin!s
The top layer of the matter should turn a dark brown when your worm castings
are finished. This new soil looks like brown chunky sand. It looks like dirt, and it
smells like dirt. Hut its genuine, fresh worm castings K the best soil additive
known to man"
Usin! 'or8 Castin!s In A (oi) Mi4
$orm castings can be used in a multitude of ways * mi7ed into a soil mi7, a
soilless mi7, or as a tea or slurry.
Gsually worm castings is thought of as an additive. 'ecommendations vary
wildly, but I would recommend adding one tenth to one fifth in any organic mi7
=6?*1?P>.
Top dressing with worm castings would work well too, especially with indoor
containers. .ake a worm castings tea by steeping the castings in clean well
aerated water makes for a life giving plant*nutrient. :ilter your worm tea before
use and returning the dregs into the worm bin after a couple of rounds.
Ane can use plain worm castings as a growing medium, it works very well. Hut
usually finished worm castings tends to be mud*like in consistency, and needs
191
something to aerate and lighten up the te7ture. !erlite and e7panded clay work
very well for this. 5?P of e7panded clay=multiple siBe> and 5?P worm castings
makes for a nice @uick*n*dirty primo soilless mi7.
T"/ C)assic 'or8 Castin!s Mi4
The mi7 that many elite growers will use is basically nothing but castings and
drainage. Including soilless peat*based mi7es like pro*mi7 and other additives
will ust introduce a source for pH problems * especially when others try and
duplicate it but can#t find the right brands then substitute with a peat*mi7 that is
too acidic.
) Hasic .i7O
/?P castings
4?P perlite
4?P vermiculite
Castin! T/a
(ou can simply spoon some more or less finished castings into a cheap nylon
stocking and dump that in a bucket and a reservoir.
)nother way is by using 6??P finished worm castings with a high @uality filter
material, and place that in a bucket with water, aerate the water for /3 hours,
and then use that water for watering=provided it didn#t contain visible pests and
didn#t smell like rotten fish>.
'at/rin!
Gsing HI8 lights cause plants to grow very fast but also consume lots of water.
!lants grown in soil are watered AD;( whenever they dry out, usually only after
the top layer has lost a bit of it#s moisture. $hen soil that is too fine is used,
drainage problems develop. :or roots to remain healthy, air and water must be
able to penetrate. 0o by knowing this, you must understand that it is perfectly
192
healthy and fine for the soil to become drenched in water, as long as it doesn#t
stay that way and drains properly. 'oots need air to breathe so some dryness is
good, but not too much or the plant will dehydrate. Ideally a good soil grow mi7
will hold a great deal of water, yet become over dry if left unwatered for 1*/
days. -row mi7 can be modified to allow plants to hold more water for longer
periods=less watering is then re@uired> but plants will not grow well due to poor
root growth. &7cess water U suffocating roots.
Not/7 It is 0/r, i8-ortant $"/n $at/rin! 6or t"/ 6irst ti8/ to 8a9/ sur/ ,ou
COM5ETEY saturat/ ,our soi) $it" $at/r. T"is $i)) /nsur/ no dr, -oc9/ts 6or8
t"at $i)) b)oc9 6/rti)i=/r and roots 6ro8 !ro$in! t"/r/. An /as, 8/t"od to do t"is
is to $/t ,our soi)C $ait a )itt)/ bit 6or it to drainC and t"/n $/t it a!ain.
'"/n To 'at/r
Gsually you will have to water every other day. )n e7ample is on 8ay 6 you
water your plant, 8ay 1 it dries, 8ay 4 you again water it etc. $atering really
depends on the siBe of your pots.
193
0ometimes it can be hard to tell if your soil is dry or not. ) great method I have
found it to physically lift up your pot or container when the soil is completely
dry, then water it like normal, then pick it up again. This will give you a good
base udgment on how each water level feels. He careful because if over or
under*watering your plant continues it could die. O=
'A2NING7 B/ sur/ to NE<E2 !/t a (INGE dro- o6 $at/r on a "ot
bu)bT t"is 8a, caus/ it to burst111
Hefore watering break up the surface of your soil with your fingers. This will
ensure water is distributed evenly to all of your plant#s roots. (our plants leaves
will be a good indication as to if you are over*watering them or under*watering
them. If the leaves point happily upwards to receive more light than good ob,
you got it right" Hut if they wilt or curl downwards like claws then you are either
over*watering them or under*watering them. +heck the soil using the methods
mentioned above to determine your ne7t course of action.
Not/7 Qua)it, $at/r is i8-ortant to su--ort /4traordinar, -)ant !ro$t". A)$a,s
us/ $at/r t"at is roo8 t/8-/ratur/. Usin! $at/r t"at is too "ot or too co)d $i))
da8a!/ ,our -r/cious roots. A)so b/ sur/ to 9//- t"/ -+ o6 ,our $at/r b/t$//n 6
and #. I6 it isnKt it is ad0is/d to us/ an a8/nd8/nt to r/8/d, t"is.
Aver*watering your plant generally is AE, but you must make sure the e7cess
water fully drains away. 8ehydrated plants on the other hand will show obvious
symptoms. The leaves will become droopy. The plant will go back to normal
when proper watering is resumed.
The chlorine in most tap water can eventually cause the soil to become acidic.
;etting tap water sit in a tub for a day or two will allow all the chlorine to
evaporate. )nd here#s a cool tipJ you can purchase a small a@uarium*type pump
to blow bubbles that will ensure your water is well airated. Hubbly airrated water
is amaBingly beneficial for the roots. This will greatly enhance your bud
development.
Dever pour the water A2&' your plants, only around the stem" (ou can spray
your plants leaves tops and undersides of the leaves with water mist in order to
keep dust off them and any micro pests. This misting can only be done before
194
bud production becomes visible. )pplying water after buds appear may lead to
mold growth. .oldy buds are a no*no. To help prevent molding when utiliBing
heavy misting be sure to use an oscillating fan to ensure proper ventilation and
drying.
0o watering once a week is ideal for soil and twice a day with a hydroponic
flood and drain system. )nother good indicator is when top 1 inches of the soil
dry out. Accasionally provide periods of e7tra dry and wet soil.
)llow 6?P e7tra water to drain out of the bottom of the tray. This will prevent
to7ic fertiliBer build up.
T"/ Ei6t T"/ 5otF M/t"od
The Qlift the potQ method is a widely practiced, and very accurate method of
knowing when to water your container plants.
.any growers agree K one of the best ways to know when soil grown potted
plants need more watering is by checking how heavy the pots feel. This method
is very simple to learn once you get the feel for how light a ready for watering
pot of soil feels.
-et an e@ual siBe pot and fill it with your soil. The medium should be about as
moist as a new bag of potting soil. Gse this planter as a learning tool to get a
rough idea of how much the pots should weigh before watering again. The pots
with your plants will feel only ust slightly heavier when the soil is ready for
more water. !ick up one of your planted pots, if its noticeably heavy, do not
water it until it feels QlightQ. De7t time you water a planter, pick it up and feel
how much heavier it feels compared to the sample pot of soil.
It only takes a few times picking up the pots until this skill is like a Qsecond
natureQ to you. (ou wont even need the sample pot after you get accustomed
to the lifting method.
0ure your plants are always putting on more weight as they grow larger, but
once you#re proficient at lifting the pots, you#ll also know how to compensate for
the weight of the plants with ease. )nyone who learns this method will always
195
know when its time to water their mariuana plants.
'at/rin! Droo-in! 5)ants
!lants droop after flushing or heavy watering due to lack of A1 in the rootBone.
Take a thin wood dowel or pencil and poke some holes down into the mi7 for
aeration.
.any growers wonder how they can tell if their drooping plant is overwatered or
underwatered. 8etermining the difference is simple once you know what to
specifically look forO
;eaves that are drooping from underwatering will look limp and lifeless.
;eaves that are drooping from overwatering will be firm and curled down, even
from the stem of the leaf.
196
B/st 'at/r To Us/
8epending on the area in which they live=especially in the snowy mountain
areas>, most growers will have no problems using tap water. (ou can have the
tap water analyBed to determine if it will give you problems or you can buy a
good filter and start with a totally clean slate.
The most common problems with tap water will beO
pH * usually caused by lime or calcium in the groundwater supply.
High parts per million=lots of dissolved unk in it> K prominent in city
water. +ertain elements dissolved in the tap water may cause lockups
and then deficiencies if you are using chemical fertiliBers.
+hloramineF+hlorine * used in wastewater treatment.
The best filtration system to use is called 'everse*Asmosis. Gnder*the*sink
models can be purchased at any home improvement store for around X1?? G08.
They will re@uire cleaning and filter replacement around once a year, depending
on how many gallons you put through it. The typical model can clean 5? gallons
of tap water down to ? ppm and 5 pH daily.
197
The downside to '.A. is the amount of waste water it produces in the process.
This loss to drain can be cut by up to 35P with the addition of a Mpermeate
pumpN to the '.A system, it is an easy installation that should re@uire no tools
in most cases. !ermeate pumps re@uire no electricity and can be purchased
online or at your local water filter supply company.
!ermeate pumps are the newest breakthrough in 'everse Asmosis 0ystem
Technology. 8esigned to operate as a non*electrical energy recovery device, the
!ermeate !ump uses the available energy from the brine=wastewater out of the
'.A. Gnit> water after the flow restrictor to essentially force purified water into
the '.A. storage tank. The permeate !ump eliminates the need for hydraulic
shut*off valves and can be used for replacing booster pumps in well water
applications. The !ermeate !ump advanced technology is capable of bringing
the tank up to incoming water pressure and shutting the '.A. system down
when the storage sank reaches full capacity.
8istilled water is also great to use. .ountain or spring water will generally tend
not to be ? ppm as it will have dissolved minerals. Gsing cheap home filters like
Hrita pitchers is pointless as they do little to clean the water. =0cam alert.>
Not/7 ItKs not ad0isab)/ to us/ -)ain 2.O. $at/r in a ",dro-onic 8/diu8 6or
6)us"in!. T"/ s"oc9 o6 * --8 $i)) start )/ac"in! nutri/nts 6ro8 t"/ roots. C)/arin!
s"ou)d b/ don/ around 1** --8 inst/ad.
198
Ta- 'at/r
Tap water in most areas is highly chlorinated, this does not appear to harm
+annabisJ and countless fine crops are raised with water straight from the tap.
+hlorine is introduced to water as the gas +l=subscript>1 which formulates
slightly acidic water, the chlorine could possibly influence the plants indirectly, by
killing some beneficial microorganisms in the soilJ however, neither effect is
e7pected to be serious. Arganochlorine takes longer than chlorine to dissipate,
so the best procedure is allowing the water to stand in an open container for
three days at room temperature.
If the water has dissolved +A1 in it =like some bottled water labeled as pure>,
the pH will rise as that comes out. ;etting it sit out is used to evaporate the
chlorine, which is fine if thats what your district uses. 0ome areas have switched
to chloramine, which is chlorine and ammonia. This will not evaporate and you
need a reverse*osmosis filter =or you can use a distiller> to remove the
chloramine.
199
To determine which is in your water, have a sample tested or call your utility
company. &ven with chlorine or chloramine, your plants may grow fine from the
tap, but if you wouldn#t drink it, why should your plantsC
Disti))/d 'at/r
0ome growers report purified or distilled
water helps their plants grow faster. This is
perhaps due to sodium and heavy metals
found in hard water that are not present in
purified water. Hard water tends to build up
alkaline salt deposits in soil that lockup trace
minerals, and cause iron, copper, and Binc
deficiencies. There are several types of
purified water, but many are not free of
minerals that could be causing salt build up
over an e7tended period of time. Tap water
comes in two flavoursJ Hot and cold. The
cold pipe has less calcium and sodium build
up in it, and should be freer of sediment once the water has been turned on
and allowed to flow for 4? seconds. Hot water will have rust, lead deposits, and
lots of sodium and calcium=you will see it easily>.
Gse only the amount of hot water needed to make the water the correct
temperature 5?*3?Y:=16*19.9Y+>. Tap water filtered through a carbon=charcoal>
filter will be free of chlorine and most large particles, but will still contain
dissolved solids such as sodium and heavy metals=lead, arsenic, nickel, etc.>.
!urified bottled water will be either 'everse Asmosis or some form of
carbonFsediment filtered water. $hen purchasing water at a store, unless it says
'.A. or 8istilled, don#t bother buying it. It could still have the same dissolved
solids and heavy metals your tap water has.
200
-+ /0/)
) lot of gardeners have trouble with the pH=potential Hydrogen ions> of their
soil. It is very important to keep the pH level within certain limits when growing
mariuana. &ven newer growers need to monitor the pH of their nutrient
solution or soil to keep it at optimal levels.
The pH level will determine how well your plants are able to absorb nutrients. If
the pH level is out of the optimal range, the growth rate of the plants will slow
down or even stop entirely. ) high pH can lock out needed nutrients and mimic
other problems like :e and .g deficiencies. The biggest mistake new growers
make is to try and correct pH problems too @uickly. The first step in determining
if high pH is the real problem, is to pick up a good pH tester. 8on#t be afraid to
shell out the cash for a good one, it#s well worth it"
201
pH is a scientifically based measurement of acidity levels. The pH scale ranges
from 6.? K 6/.?. R.* is MneutralN, 6.? is 2&'( MacidicN, and 6/.? is MalkalineN.
+annabis plants grow best when the pH level of the soil is kept at a range of 9.1
* 5.? . $hen pH levels are too high or too low, the roots cannot absorb
nutrients" This can commonly lead newer growers to believing their plants aren#t
getting enough fertiliBer, which isn#t the problem. $hen purchasing soil be sure
to check it#s pH levels and opt for a 5.? . If you#re serious about growing then it
is important that you monitor the pH=acidic level> of the soil. (our soil should be
in the range of 9.? and 5.? at all times. In order to do this, if you are serious,
you#ll need to purchase a pH tester.
)s your plant grows it will naturally consume the minerals and nutrients in the
soil. The plant also naturally e7pels waste products during this process through
its# root system. This may increase or lower the soil#s pH levels. )gain, we must
strive to keep it between 9.1 and 5.?. .ariuana thrives in neutral to slightly
acidic mediums. 0oil and soilless mi7es should aim for pH of 9. Hydro growers
should go slightly lower which helps prevent pythium and other root rots * 5.5
to 5.5 is ideal. 5.? is safe.
202
-+ M/t/rs
Here are some popular reliable pH meters used today
=get a good one, it#s worth it">O
Mi)$au9// * makes two styles of hand*held pH meters. )
small QpenQ called the 0harp and the larger 0mart .eter.
Hoth are easy to use. The 0harp pens are splash*
proof=although not totally waterproof>, and have a large
easy to read display. They also have a detachable,
replaceable probe.
Oa9ton * 0ame type of pH tester as .ilwaukee makes, but
it#s made a little better. These are totally waterproof. It even
floats"
("ind/n!/n I(BET * these are state*of*the*art pH pens
and work with a totally different method of measurement.
This pen uses a solid state Ion 0ensitive :ield &ffect
Transistor=I0:&T> instead of the fragile glass electrodes used
by traditional pH pens. They have replaceable tips that
change from opa@ue to clear when they need to be
changed.
Contro))in! t"/ -+ /0/)
Ance you have determined the pH of your soil with a good tester, you can
amend the soil if needed to accommodate the plants in your garden using
ine7pensive materials commonly available at your local garden center.
Not/7 Adjust soi) -+ s)o$), o0/r s/0/ra) da,s ti8/C and c"/c9 -+ o6t/n as ,ou !o.
2adica) c"an!/s in -+ 8a, caus/ os8otic s"oc9 da8a!/ to t"/ roots.
203
)s a general rule, be sure to check the pH level about once a week for the
plants you grow in soil. )nother ideal time to check pH levels is right after you
fertiliBe your plant. .ost grow shops sell pH testing kits. If you find your pH
level has fallen out of the 9.? K 5.? range then there are methods of bringing it
back.
It is generally easier to make soil mi7es more alkaline than it is to make them
more acidic. The addition of dolomite lime, hardwood ash, bone meal, crushed
marble, or crushed oyster shells will help to raise the soil pH.
In soil add dolomite limestone to the soilJ use small amounts of hydrated lime.
)nother easy way to stabiliBe soil pH that is too basic is to add a fertiliBer that
contains sulfur.
2aisin! (oi) -+7 =to make it more alkaline>
If your soil pH becomes too acidic you need to bring it back to neutral. This can
be done using lime. (ou can purchase lime in small containers in most grow
shops. The ne7t time you water your plant, add some lime to the mi7. 0tart off
with small amounts and then the ne7t day check the pH level again, and adust
as needed until your pH is back in the 9.? K 5.? range. It is generally easier to
make soil mi7es more alkaline than it is to make them more acidic. The addition
of dolomite lime, hardwood ash, bone meal, crushed marble, or crushed oyster
shells will help to raise the soil pH. )dd dolomite limestone to the soilJ use small
amounts of hydrated lime
o$/rin! (oi) -+7 =to make it more acidic>
If your soil becomes too alkaline then you will need to bring it back as well. This
can be done by making your soil more acidic. (ou can use the following
ingredients to induce a mild acidic environment in your soil to bring it back to
neutralJ cottonseed meal, coffee grounds, lemon peels, and some fertiliBers.
0awdust, composted leaves, wood chips, cottonseed meal, leaf mold and
especially peat moss, will lower the soil pH as well. (ou can use
bloodmealFcottonseed meal during vegetativeJ bonemeal during flowering.
204
)gain with both the suggested methods above be sure to only apply a small
amount of pH altering solution at first, then check your results. .ake moderate
adustments" 8on#t be afraid to e7periment and learn but don#t go overboard
either.
Not/7 You can a)so 6ind -+ u- and -+ do$n a!/nts in 8ost !ro$ s"o-s t"at do
/4act), $"at t"/, sound )i9/. T"/s/ c"/8ica)s ar/ b/co8in! Duit/ -o-u)ar
no$ada,s.
(ou can also use vinegar to lower pH, and baking soda to raise it.
'A2NING7 N/0/r /0/r 8i4 -+ u- and -+ do$n to!/t"/r dir/ct), in a
conc/ntrat/. T"is stu66 is 0/r, dan!/rous and n//ds to b/ "and)/d
$it" car/. Us/ on/ -i-/tt/ 6or /ac" job and co)or cod/ t"/ -i-/tt/ to
t"/ bott)/.
(tabi)i=in! -+ $it" Do)o8it/ i8/
Ane of the easiest ways to stabiliBe the pH of soil is to mi7 one cup of fine
dolomite lime per cubic foot of soil. The best way to stabilBie pH is by adding 6
ounce of 8olomite ;ime per 6 gallon of planting soil.
8olomite ;ime is available in garden nurseries. The best is the fine 8olomite
powder=depending on your area there may be several kinds of 8olomite such as
'ough, .edium, :ine>. 8olomite lime is also high in two secondary nutes that
can often be overlooked by fertiliBersJ dolomite is high in both =.g> .agnesium
and =+a> +alcium.
8olomite ;ime has been a useful pH stabiliBer among commercial growers for
years. This is because it has a neutral pH of 5.? and when added to your soil it
stabiliBes your soil at pH 5.?
.i7 the dry soil medium and dolomite together really well, give the mi7 a good
watering then after the water has had chance to settle and leech into the soil a
bit give the mi7 a really good stir. Then water the soilFlime mi7 and give it
another stir.
205
The best plan is to mi7 fine dolomite lime into your mi7 before planting. :ine
8olomite will help stabiliBe your pHJ however, if the pH becomes unstable or
changes, you can then use Hydrated 8olomite ;ime. (ou can add some of the
hydrated lime to lukewarm water and give it a good stir and then water your
plants with it. -ive the plants a good watering with this hydrated lime added
and your pH should fall or rise back to 5.?.
Adjustin! -+ in Or!anic (o)utions
To lower pH use acetic and citric acid. This will facilitate the QkrebQ cycle.
To raise pH add small amounts of sodium bicarbonate or lime.
-+ And B/rti)i=/rs
pH can make or break your carefully*crafted nutrient solution. 9.5*9.1 is best to
ensure there is no nutrient lockup occurring. Hydroponic systems re@uire the
solution to be pH corrected for the medium before e7posing to the plants.
!hosphoric acid can make the !H go downJ lime or potash can take it up when
it gets too acid. Invest in a pH meter for X6? and use it in soil, water, and
hydroponic mediums to make sure your not going alkaline or acidic over time.
.ost fertiliBers cause a pH change in the soil. )dding fertiliBer to the soil almost
always results in a more acidic pH level. )s time goes on, the amount of salts
produced by the breakdown of fertiliBers in the soil causes the soil to become
increasingly acidic and eventually the concentration of these salts in the soil will
stunt the plant growth and cause browning out of the foliage. )lso as the plant
gets older it#s roots become less effective in bringing food to the leaves. To
avoid the accumulation of these harmful salts in your soil and to ensure that
your plant is getting all of the food it needs you can begin leaf feeding your
plant at the age of about 6.5 months * dissolve the fertiliBer in worm water and
spray the mi7ture directly onto the foliage. The leaves absorb the fertiliBer into
their veins. If you want to continue to put fertiliBer into the soil as well as leaf
feeding, be sure not to overdose your plants.
207
Introduction to C)onin!
+annnabis can be reproduced ase7ually or se7ually. )se7ual propagation is what
is known as Mtaking cuttingsN or McloningN. .any growers take advantage of this
awesome process known as cloning. 0imply stated, the process is when growth
shoots or branches are removed from chosen donor plants and induced to form
roots in a separate grow medium. Hy taking cuttings from a mother, every single
clone will be a guaranteed female plant. ) garden can be perpetuated
indefinitely by taking cuttings before plants flower.
+loning offers growers many benefits. :or one it allows them to have a constant
supply of female plants * by using clones, a grower has a healthy, steady supply
of female*only plants. ) clone is an e7act genetic duplicate of its parent. 0o you
can use your most vigorous and potent plants to use as mothers, and every
clone you take from it will be vigorous and potent as well. +lones will always
keep the same se7 and vigor of the mother plant. It is also possible to create a
garden of plants that will last for decades through cloning from a single female
mother plant.
208
.others=MHonsai .othersN> can be kept alive for a very long time to continue to
produce healthy offspring, but, the longer you keep it alive the longer it has the
chance to fall prey to insects, mold, fungi and disease.
+loning is a popular simplified method of replicating your plants. To clone
mariuana is to take a McuttingN from a growing branch tip and root it. +loning is
by far the most efficient and productive means of cannabis propagation for
growers, both indoors and outdoors. The best time to make and use clones is
when you have an e7ceptional uni@ue plant whose particular genetic code is
worth preserving and perpetuating. Gniformity is a common cultivation goal
among @uality cannabis growers. 0ince indoor grower#s usually cannot devote
time and space to plants that may have @uite different habits in growth,
flowering time, or yield, clones offer the advantage of uniform genetics.
Gniform genetics means that your plants will be the same height, have the same
growth habits, will ripen and flower at the same time, and have the same
potency, taste, aroma, smell etc. They will also respond to the same e7ternal
stimuli in the same e7act fashion=such as fertiliBer, lighting, bending, cutting
etc>. )fter a while the grower will then know e7actly what to do to his crop to
ensure a @uality, heavy harvest every time.
209
The benefits of creating a garden of genetically identical cuttings from a
specifically favored mother plant will allow you to produce a consistent, known
@uality and @uantity from each plant and e7pect that all plants will mature at the
same time. This guarantees the same consistent, @uality, harvest from
consecutive crops=as long as the same high @uality clones are used for
planting">.
-enetic uniformity works both ways though. This means if your chosen stock
plant is lacking potency, health, harvest weight etcJ it#s clones will be lacking
those traits as well. +hoosing healthy parent plants is crucial.
If you find a seed strain you really like with an awesome genetic profile, you can
keep it indefinitely by cloning her correctly. (ou can create literally 6??#s of
healthy female plants from one single mother" +loning is great for those
growers who have little cash to spend on multiple seeds.
+loning has the added benefit of reducing the time it takes for a plant to
mature. +lones can flower as soon they reach 61 inches, so cloning can shorten
the total growing time=which normally takes <? K 64? days from seed to
harvest> to only 6? days" In this way, cloning allows the grower to plant TH+
potent plants that will continue to grow into full potency at a very rapid rate. )
210
one month old rooted clone acts e7actly like a four moth old plant and can be
triggered easily to flower by using the 61F61 photoperiod.
)n e7ceptional plant can be reuvenated and cloned even after it has flowered
and been harvested. If a small amount of vegetative matter is left growing on
the bottom of the plant and it is placed under an eighteen hour light cycle then
all the little nuggets will stretch into vegetative shoots, which may then be
cloned and grown into a full mother plant, which can be cloned indefinitely. This
will provide you with many uniform harvests of your favourite plant.
$hen using clones for regenerating, your garden can be designed and used
most efficiently because you know the plant#s e7act growing habits. )lso when
commercial growing, since the plant#s @ualities are already known, you can
establish a perpetual income generation cycle properly. The downside to clones
is that they can be tedious to prepare and are subect to heavy failure rates.
'A2NING7 It is i8-/rati0/ t"at ,ou ta9/ c)on/s 6ro8 a 8ot"/r -)ant
on),. Ta9in! c)on/s 6ro8 c)on/s 8a, caus/ t"/ -)ants to su66/r 6ro8
E!/n/tic dri6tF and 6or8 8utations or und/sirab)/ !ro$t"
c"aract/ristics.
-rowers often will make clones from their plants when they are still in their
vegetative growth stage=cuttings are made easier while the plant is still in its
vegetative growth stage>. This method of propagating growth ase7ually to
ensure uniformity in growth, yield, and consistency is @uite popular nowadays.
211
(tartin! Bro8 (//ds 0s C)on/s
.any novice growers askJ Qshould I start from seed or should I grow clonesCQ
-rowers commonly face the decision to begin their grow from seeds or rooted
clones. There are distinct advantages and disadvantages to both. The traditional
way to begin growing a new mariuana plant is to plant seeds. )bout half of the
seeds will develop into plants that turn out to be male. The males are then
212
removed from your garden and the remaining females will be of varying @uality.
Hut what about clonesC 0o say you get an ).)IID- female plant that you want
to continue to produce. How do you do it so that you can grow out future
generations of the e7act same identical awesome plant uniformly producing a
constant flow of incredible budsC This is known as recropping and is the method
of obtaining a second identical harvest from the same plant. The answer of
course is to take a cutting=clone> of the desirable female mother plant. This is
the only way to get a uniform crop.
-rowing from clones means that you will harvest more bud sooner. .any people
who start a garden these days know someone who will give them a few clones
for the simple pleasure of sharing a good thing. 0ome people sell clones only,
often growing an e7clusively vegetative garden without ever flowering.
These clone aficionados keep a variety of select mothers from high*@uality
strains, and grow them on a continuous eighteen hour light cycle. They can
make good money selling trays of cuttings, either rooted or simply fresh cut.
'ooted clones are more e7pensive than fresh cuttings.
If you have access to someone who grows, you can ask them for some clones,
as this will be the easiest way to obtain them. If you don#t have access to any
clones you will then have to buy seeds as mentioned above. 0ome people sell
specifically clones only, utiliBing a e7clusively vegetative garden without ever
flowering. They can make good cash selling trays of cuttings, either rooted or
freshly cut. 'ooted clones are more e7pensive than fresh cuttings.
I recommend growing from seeds so you can choose the particular plant that
suits your needs. .ake sure when you#re starting from seeds to take two clones
from the bottom of each plant right before putting the plants into the flowering
phase of growth. Eeep them alive"
$hatever grow system you use, you are bound to use clones sooner or later.
They can greatly improve the efficiency of your growing area, and are a
fantastic way to preserve your favorite plants.
213
Ad0anta!/s o6 (tartin! 'it" C)on/s7
)n e7cellent way to keep a steady supply of plants around.
0aves a lot of time.
-uarantee of having a female plant.
+lones are much faster to veg up and flower than starting from seed,
resulting in a @uick harvest and a much shorter turnaround time.
+lones can be @uickly grown into mothers and re*cloned, for an instant
vegetative and flowering crop
0ince indoor growers usually cannot devote time and space to plants that
may have @uite different habits in growth, flowering time, or yield, clones
offer the advantage of uniform genetics.
+lones are genetically identical, but some differences will still be evident
in the phenotype. In general, clones will e7hibit even growth and
growing characteristics.
'ooted clones can be flowered immediately if space or time is a problem.
+lones can @uickly provide the grower with a strains characteristics
=smell, vigor, branching pattern, 0ativaFIndica dominance, rooting @uality,
etc>.
214
Disad0anta!/s o6 (tartin! 'it" C)on/s7
-enetic uniformity means similar resistance and susceptibilities to insect
attack, disease, microbial infections, and any other kind of weakness the
parent plant may have that normally would be less likely to harm the
plant had it been bred of many different varieties. In other words,
degeneration is likely to spread more @uickly.
;ack of variety. +lones from the same parent will all taste e7tremely
similar and create the e7act same high. This is perfect for commercial
growers seeking uniform standardiBation growth to increase profits on a
large scale, but most smokers growing their own cannabis tend to prefer
many different varieties of pot.
+lones can be difficult to find. +lones from unknown sources are of
suspect @uality and genetic predisposition.
-rowers run a high risk of inheriting problems from the last growerO 'oot
rot, spider mites, powdery mildew, etc. If these problems are not
identified and treated, they can @uickly spread to an entire crop=and
garden">
Gnhealthy clones may die or remain in shock for an e7tended period.
)vailability. 0hipped clones may be in shock and take weeks to recover.
There are countless horror stories of medical clones shipped without any
protection and arrived flat"
+lones are more light*sensitive and delicate than seeds. +lones take time
to become established, and are easily burned by e7cessive light=and
nutrients>. They re@uire more attention and care in the early growth
stages.
)s clones are almost always female, breeding options are limited.
Hermaphrodite development is always possible with unstable clone
crosses.
215
Ad0anta!/s o6 (tartin! 'it" (//ds7
0eeds obtained from reputable seed banks are of known lineage and
genetics. (ou will have a reasonable idea of what the strain will do in
terms of yield, @uality and flowering time.
(our seeds should produce healthy plants, free of disease and pests.
Hybrid vigor. :emales grown from seed are often higher yielding than
clones. 0trains can lose their vigor over timeJ growers may want to
reuvenate their grow with the same successful strain
Hreeding and crossing options are possible with male seeds. =:eminiBed
seeds produce a higher P of female seeds, but 6??P female is never
guaranteed>.
-ives growers more control over evolution and selection.
Disad0anta!/s o6 (tartin! 'it" (//ds7
!roblems with ripoffs, shippingFcustoms seiBing seedbank deliveries,
switched seeds.
+ost. 0eeds can be e7pensive, not only per seed pack, but in the time
they take to produce a flowered crop.
Gnstable hybrid strains.
Dot all seeds will be viable=germinate> and only 5?P of the unfeminiBed
seeds will be female=feminiBed seeds may produce up to <?P females>.
It may take many seed packs to discover an e7cellent mother.
0eeds take a long time =and there is more labor, money and time
involved> before a harvest can occur.
The final results are uncertain.
Indoor grower#s usually cannot devote time and space to plants that may
have @uite different habits in growth, flowering time, or yield.
216
C)onin!
0o let#s get started" Hut before you begin cloning you need to prepare an ideal
parent.
5r/-arin! Bonsai Mot"/rs
The most important process when selecting clones is to properly choose a
mother plant. ) Honsai .other is a female strain kept in the vegetative state,
never allowed to flower. :emale plants will produce 6??P females, all e7actly
like their mother. ) Honsai mother can be kept for several years, but it is
suggested to begin anew each year by seed in order to propagate a new fresh
healthy mother. (ou take cuttingsFclones from your Honsai .others. Take clones
from mother plants that are at least two months old. !lants that are clones
before 1 months may most likely develop unevenly and have e7cruciatingly slow
growth.
)ny female plant can be converted into a bonsai mother. 0he can be grown from
a seed or be a clone of a clone. The moms should be healthy, pestFdisease free
and fully into vegetative growth. +lones can be taken off moms up to 1 weeks
into flowerJ however, these flowered clones e7perience reveg shock and are
often difficult to root. It is wise to keep several bonsai mother plants in the
vegetative growth stage for a consistent source of cloning stock. If you want to
ensure ma7imum @uality bud production, then start new mothers from a seed
every year.
) common secret habit among professional weed growers is to foliar feed the
mothers with a formula containing a DitroByme kelp e7tract containing growth
hormones 4*/ days prior to cloning to encourage lush and healthy shoot growth.
217
Bonsai Mot"/r Gro$t" Ti-s
i!"tin!7 Gnder 1/ hours of constant light the mother will have a very hard
time flowering, the downside is that the mother might grow faster than
necessary. Gnder 63 hours of light and 9 hours of darkness =generally referred
to as 63F9> that plant will have much slower growth, the plant will receive a nice
rest period, and you get a lower electrical bill. The downside of 63F9 is that
sensitive strains might begin to flower or at least produce pre flowers,
particularly if the mothers are kept for long periods of time. 0ome strains are
more prone to flower. -enerally pure sativas re@uires ma7imum light in order to
make the plant think its summer, while stable indicas cope better with 63F9.
-oing with a lower light regime then 63F9 should be considered e7perimental.
61?? lumes of blue spectrum rich light is plenty. -ive mothers 63*1/ hours of
light per day to maintain fast vigorous growth.
Not/7 A)$a,s start $it" t"/ b/st 8ot"/rs ,ou can 6ind1
Nutri/nts7 $hile the plant is active in vegetative growth stage, feed it with a
good @uality, all*purpose or high Ditrogen fertiliBer. Ane week before taking a
cutting feed the Honsai .other plant with a low nitrogen, high !hosphorus
flowering fertiliBer. ;ower nitrogen promotes rooting in clones, so about 6 week
before you take your cuttings lower it. 'educe the amountFratio of Ditrogen in
the mother#s nutrient solution 4 days prior to cloning=flush soil mothers with
water>. Ditrogen inhibits root growthJ reduced D levels in the mother help the
clones to root faster.
The flowering fertiliBer will lower the amount of stored nitrogen in the plant and
increase the amount of stored carbohydrates necessary for the production of
roots. 0praying the foliage with water daily will help accelerate this process.
Ta9in! C)on/s Bro8 A B)o$/rin! 5)ant
If you take clones during flowering, the clones will take at least 1 weeks to start
vegging again. It might also take a few more weeks for the buds to be re*
absorbed. 8uring this time root growth is often painfully slow. 0ince you#ve
never harvested any buds from these clones future yield will not be
218
compromised. (ou should however not trust that clones taken from a flowering
plant will survive, because clones taken from a flowering plant generally will not
survive K if you do not know what you are doing and know your strain then you
are gambling. It is recommended to take clones only from plants in 2egetative
-rowth.
0ince a cutting taken while the stock plant is flowering will need to be forced to
revert back to a vegetative state under a 1/ hour light, this causes additional
stress, slowing growth and development. 'ooting may take up to three times
longer when the cuttings are taken during the flowering cycle. The cutting may
not have enough stored nutrients or carbohydrates to survive. If you must do
this then take the cutting when the mother plant is only a week or two into
flowering.
0ome growers do not like to top their moms, preferring to take clones from
lower lateral branches to maintain vertical growth and prevent bushy growth.
Topping will produce 1 more shoots at the same node, and even more clones
can be taken the ne7t round.
+o$ Man, C)on/s ("ou)d I Cut@
There will always be natural differences between clones. +lones taken in large
numbers will compensate for poor performers and mortality. The fastest rooting
clones have the most vigorous vegetative growth and usually the best flowering
potential. Taking appro7imately 5?P more than you need is a good starting
point.
'"/n E4act), to Ta9/ Cuttin!s@
)lthough cuttings can be taken at any time in a plant#s life cycle, the best time
to take them is before the plant is flowering. This helps the cutting to root more
easily. .any growers will grow out a plant until it has begun to grow internodes,
then they take their clones and discard the plant.
219
5/r-/tua) +ar0/stin!
!roductive growers have two grow rooms" Ane for vegetative growthFcloning
and the other dedicated for flowering. +ommercial growers combine eight*week
floweringFharvest cycles with continuous cloning to form what is known as a
Mperpetual harvestN. )n e7ample is to take two clones every four days, and
harvest one ripe female every other day. This way, every time a plant is
harvested, one or two rooted clones are moved from the vegetative room into
the flowering room. The above e7ample will yield the grower 4? flowering
clones that are on a <?*day schedule. This means it will take [<? days from the
time a clone is cut from the mother plant until the day it is harvested. If this
schedule was used, the grower would have 4? clones, 6? vegetative plants, and
4? flowering plants growing perpetually at all times.
The key of course is to have a separate veg and flowering chamber going at the
same time. &ach time a plant is harvested it gets replaced with a clone from the
veg room * so that the bud chamber#s always filled to capacity. &ventually, as
you learn the flowering times and cloning times of your strains, you can close in
on the goal of 6??P occupancy=with no e7tra clones laying around and no place
to put them>. This does take a little calculating, but once done you can get on a
fairly precise schedule to where you#re picking your buds like clockwork. It#s the
ideal setup for growing multiple strains with different flowering times.
+,dro-onic:soi) s,st/8s7 0ince the plants will be of varying siBes, you#ll
want a hydro or soil system that#s conducive to moving them around under the
lights * to keep them in that bowl formation=or, if you#re vegging under
fluorescents, in a staircase arrangement with the lights hanging diagonally>. (ou
want it to be easy to position the plants wherever you want in the chamber, plus
be able take them to the ne7t chamber. -ood systems include ebbFflo and drip,
and also soilFpots. 0ystems with fi7ed plant spacing=aero and nft tubes> andFor
systems where the roots intertwine may prove difficult in an ever*changing
perpetual harvest setup.
)n e7ceptional plant can be reuvenated and cloned even after it has flowered
and been harvested. If a small amount of vegetative matter is left growing on
the bottom of the plant and it is placed under an eighteen hour light cycle then
220
all the little nuggets will stretch into vegetative shoots, which may then be
cloned and grown into a full mother plant, which can be cloned indefinitely. This
will provide you with many uniform harvests of your favorite plant. This means
you wont have to continually purchase seeds"
C)onin! T/c"niDu/
There are several methods of taking cuttings from
your selected parent plant. The techni@ues with the
most success rate and easiest to do will be outlined in
this section.
0uccessful cloning re@uires cleanliness, warmth,
healthy stock, and a little care. +lones are sensitive
to their environment. Harsh conditions=ie. bitter cold>
will delay rooting and increase mortality rates.
B/6or/ B/!innin!
Hefore you begin cloning in order to ensure as close to a 6??P success rate as
possible please review the following suggestions.
0elect a strong healthy female mother plant=bonsai mother>.
$ash your hands thoroughly beforehand.
Eeep your work area, tools, and work surfaces clean and sterile. =(ou can
steriliBe tools such as a raBor, sharp scissors, 7*acto knife etc by dipping
them in alcohol or vinegar. Hleach that is diluted to a 5*6?P solution also
works wonders.>
Have your pH balanced grow medium ready for immediate planting.
He sure to have all your cloning supplies in reach and immediately
available before you start to take clones.
221
Ta9in! Cuttin!s Usin! 2oc9$oo)
'ockwool is an e7cellent medium for cloningO sterile, cheap, biodegradable, and
portable * rockwool can be transplanted into any system with minimum
transplant shock.
2/Duir/d Mat/ria)s7
'ooting gel F hormone
:resh sterile raBor blade=s> F @uality trimming scissors
+utting board
6Q rockwool cubes
0lotted tray F solid tray F High hat humidity domes
:lourescent lighting
O-tiona) Mat/ria)s7
Heating mat
Isopropyl alcohol
Tray inserts=to keep cubes upright, evenly spaced, and slightly raised off
the slotted tray.>
222
Not/7 a)$a,s us/ V"i!" Dua)it, $at/rV $"/n $at/rin! c)on/s A disti))/dC r/0/rs/A
os8osis>2.O.? or E%4 "ourF ta- $at/r )/6t 6or %4 "ours to dissi-at/ c")orin/. A))
$at/r s"ou)d b/ at roo8 t/8-/ratur/.
5r/--in! T"/ 2oc9$oo)
The first step is to treat the rockwool by soaking overnight in a pH treated
solutionO
(t/- 1? 'emove plastic wrapping from cubes =The plastic can incubate algae>
(t/- %? !repare some pH /.5 * 5.5 water.
(t/- 3? Immerse cubes for 1/hrs.
223
Here you can use plastic inserts to keep cubes
upright, evenly spaced, and slightly raised.
.any find the standard 6Q cube too bigJ it remains
damp and cool=even on a heating mat>. ) better idea
is to cut the 6Q cube into 1 halvesJ the T siBed cube
dries out faster, stays warm, air can reach all sides,
roots e7it faster, and you get twice as many" +utting a cube into / makes even
more...
Not/7 ab/)in! ,our 8o8 and t"/ c)on/s ta9/n 6ro8 a -articu)ar 8o8 is a !ood
id/a to bac9trac9 on a E8onst/r 8o8F.
!rior to cloning e7posed clones will wilt within a few minutes, so it is best to
have all materials ready before you start to take cuttingsO
8ip scissors and raBor blade into alcohol.
$ipe cutting board with alcohol.
8rain cubes, place into tray.
!oke a 6F3Q hole halfway into the center of each cube.
+over prepped cubes with dome until you are ready to start=pre*
warming the rockwool by putting the filled tray on the heating mat for
T hour before you start to take cuttings ensures a damn*near 6??P
success rate>.
224
C"oosin! C)on/s
)ctively growing tops are preferred, as they contain the most growth hormones.
+lones taken lower down are often spindly and less developed. The best is 4Q
top clones with a 6F3Q stem, 1*4 fan leaves and a slightly firm=but not yet
woody> stem.
0hort clones are best=no more than 1*4 nodes>, otherwise the newly forming
roots must support a large leaf and shoot. The clone should also be MmatureN,
with alternating leaves. Immature clones have leaves opposite each other and
are usually pale and spindly.
)void stem cuts=no node> and plug cuts, as they do not root nearly as well
='oots form primarily at the nodes>. Trim large fan leaves in half to minimiBe the
leaf area the newly forming roots must support.
(/)/ctin! T"/ C)on/>'"/r/ Do I Cut@?
0elect a vigorous growing top on the mother, cut the main stem ust above a
fan leaf F au7iliary shoot node about 1 nodes down=as shown in red in the
image below>. The cut can be done with steriliBed trimming scissors or a raBor
blade.
225
;eaving a shoot and fan leaf on the mother allows the remaining shoot to
continue growing and another shoot to grow from that node.
$hen taking a cutting you must cut it long enough to have at least one
trimmed internode under the medium. Try to take a cutting that is at least 4
inches long. Ance the cut has been made, trim off all leaves and branches
e7cept the top two fan leaves and the growing tip of the branch. This will leave
a nice stem for planting. .ake sure you use a sterile clean tool when making
your cut.
)n internode is the place on the stem where the leaf=plus its stem> intersects
the main stem. +uttings taken from wood*like parts of the plants won#t root as
well as cuttings taken from the soft part of the plant. Take them from the fresh
soft parts.
226
The larger branches of a cannabis plant will oftentimes have little white
protrusions near the base of the stem. These are known as Madventitious rootsN.
These most commonly will appear in a humid environment and readily grow into
roots when placed into a grow medium.
+uttings taken from the lower branches are best as these often contain a higher
amount of sugars and they root much faster than the slips from the top of the
plant.
Not/7 B/ 0/r, d/)icat/ $it" ,our c)on/s t"rou!"out t"/ir /ntir/ )i6/ c,c)/. An, 9ind
o6 str/ss $i)) !r/at), disru-t "or8on/s and s)o$ its !ro$t".
5r/ATri8 T"/ 2a$ C)on/7>2/8o0in! o$/r Nod/s?
Ance the growing top has been selected and cut from the mother, trim shoots
and fan leaves from the lowest nodes=as seen in the image>. The lowest node
will be inserted into the rockwool.
+ut ]Q below the lowest node with the raBor blade at a /5 degree angle on the
cutting board for a clean cut.
'emoving the large fan leaves ensures that the fragile cutting#s water and
nutrient uptake processes won#t be overburdened.
227
T"/ Tri88/d C)on/7
This MidealN trimmed clone was taken from a vigorous top. ) fan leaf and shoot
were both removed at the lowest node. The clone will soon be inserted dipped
into rooting gel F solution, then inserted into a rockwool cube.
Trim large fan leaves in half=reduces transpirationJ the newly forming roots don#t
have to initially support as much leaf>.
228
5)antin! T"/ C)on/
Hefore placing your cutting in a medium if should be treated in a rooting
solution such as fungicidal*b_ mi7, or the powerful $illow $ater as described
below. 'ooting solutions promote healthy root growth which is an essential
building block for growing dank, heavy sensational buds.
'A2NING7 An /8bo)is8 8i!"t 6or8 in ,our st/8>an air bubb)/? i6 ,ou
)a, ,our cuttin! do$n on a count/r b/6or/ -)acin! it in a !ro$
8/diu8. It is ad0is/d to ta9/ ,our cuttin!s on), und/r )u9/$ar8
$at/r. T"is $i)) r/8o0/ t"/ -ossibi)it, o6 an /8bo)is8 6or8in!. An air
bubb)/ insid/ ,our st/8 $i)) sto- 6)uid u-ta9/ and 9i)) ,our c)on/s. T"/
b/st $a, to -r/0/nt t"is is ri!"t a6t/r ta9in! ,our cuttin! to
i88/diat/), di- t"/8 into ,our !ro$ 8/diu8 or $at/r. T"is $i))
-r/0/nt air 6ro8 !/ttin! tra--/d in t"/ "o))o$ st/8s.
8ip the trimmed clone into the cloning gel F rooting solution, making sure the
lowest node is also thinly coated with gel. 'emove any e7cess on the cut
surface itself=so the cutting does not suffocate>.
229
-ently push the stem into the rockwool. If the hole is too big, gently s@ueeBe
the rockwool around the stem to seal it.
Do8/ and i!"tin!
0pray inside of humidity dome with Do*8amp solution=do not spray clones
directly, as this can encourage powdery mildew>.
'otate edge clones to keep their leaves inside of the tray. +over the freshly cut
clones with the dome.
!ut the clone tray + dome under Qwarm whiteQ fluorescent lights=delicate
unrooted clones re@uire low light levels at first. 8o not blast them with direct
HI8 lights">.
The humidity dome should be left on for 4 days, lifted daily for air e7change. An
the /th day prop up the dome ]Q =slightly> on one side to acclimatiBe them=if
wilting occurs, leave dome on for another day and try again>.
230
An the 5th day remove the dome. 'oots should begin to e7it the cube after 6?
days or so.
If the lower leaves start to turn yellow and die, don#t worry that#s perfectly
normal. It is the plant feeding off of itself to sustain life by moving valuable
nutrient and water from the older growth. 8o not remove any dead growth until
the plant is well rooted. If you remove the dying growth the plant can starve
and die completely. $hen the clone has developed roots, replant it where you
want it.
Dai), Maint/nanc/
Air /4c"an!/7 ;ift the dome at least once a day=for first 4*/ days, then
remove dome>. Here#s a little trickJ e7hale inside the dome to increase +o1
levels.
'at/rin!7 $ater every second day when the clones are under the dome, then
onceFday thereafter. Ance roots show, you may have to water twice a day to
keep the roots moist.
The pH of the water inside of the rockwool will rise slowlyJ re*hydrating at 5.9*
5.3 will restore proper pH levels inside the root Bone. )llowing the cubes to dry
slightly will force roots to search for water and encourage vigorous rooting=but
dont allow the cubes to completely dry out">
.i7 5.9*5.3 pH Q1/ hourQ water and fill solid tray about halfway with water.
Not/7 A6t/r t"/ do8/ "as b//n r/8o0/dC add s8a)) a8ounts o6 nutri/nts.
231
8ip clones + inserts + slotted tray into the T filled solid tray. .ake sure all
clones are getting water by #swirling# the edges of the tray.
;ift clone tray out and allow to drain. 0hake tray to remove e7cess moisture.
!lace clones back under fluorescent lights, and a gentle fan.
2oot C"/c9
'oots should begin to e7it the cube in 5*6? days. ) gentle upward tug on the
clone will tell you if it is rooted=only do this after 6? days>. Gnrooted clones will
pull out. 'oots may be present, but not yet e7iting the cube. If in doubt,
carefully open the cube to see if any roots are e7iting.
Initially clones will draw their nutrient needs from the fan leaves, and may turn
slightly pale. This is a good sign, as it is proof the clone is rooted, and is actively
growing. Aften unrooted clones appear healthy and green=and will stay that way
for weeks">.
To make things easier, you can sort out the clones=unrooted, few roots,
vigorous> into their own trays. 'oots should be white and fuBBy. If a clone has
not shown roots in 1 weeks, I#d consider removing it. Hrown roots indicate rot.
Accasionally, root tips will become air burnedO a sign to water more often"
232
$eak nutrients=5?*1??ppm> should be started on the rooted clones, and
watered more fre@uently to avoid drying the e7posed root tips out. (ou could
also try a weak foliar feeding with any kelp e7tract. -radually begin to increase
Ditrogen levels.
Onc/ 2oot/d
$hen you first see the cutting is rooting through the cube bottom, you can stop
spraying and start watering the cube, let the solution drain from the cube.
This is a critical timeO, when you see roots, water the cube and open the tent a
little to allow humidity to escape and check every twenty minutes for )D( sign
of wilting. If after the first hour with no wilting open the tent a little more, and
check every hour. )fter / to 9 hours with no wilting, you#re ready to rock n# roll.
If any clones start to wilt replace the tent, spray leaves, and try again the ne7t
day. If you have some rooted, some not, go for the humidity for a couple more
days.
Ance the clones have fully established roots, they can be put under weak HI8
light and a weak=15?*5??ppm> nutrient regime, or outplanted into soil, hydro or
aeroponic systems. +lones are given 63*1/ hours of light so that they stay in the
vegetative growth stage. +lones generally will take 6?*1? days to grow a strong
healthy root system. Ance the root system is established, clones are
transplanted into a larger container or grow medium. Dow they are ready to
grow for 6*/ weeks in the vegetative growth stage before they are forced to
flower.
233
Ti-s
8o not put the clone tray directly onto a heating mat. The heat will cook
the roots, even on a timer. It is better to raise the tray off the mat. )
coroplast strip or two to sit the tray on works great raising the tray
appro7. ]Q.
) low*level continuous heat is preferred, but a timer may be re@uired to
reduce temperatures. 'unning your mats 4?min on, 4? min off, 1/F5 is
perfect. Hut keep close watch * the heat will dry out the clones, and
fre@uent watering may be re@uired.
Accasionally, fresh cloning gel will be very thick. )dd some water to
container, shake. The gel should pour easier.
If you are using rooting powder, take care to remove e7cess powder from
the stem cut as you plant the cutting, as this can inhibit the uptake of
water.
-ive your rooted clones a foliar feeding with any Eelp e7tract to give them
a @uick growth boost.
+ut many tops at once to speed up the cloning process.
234
.ark and date all trays, so you know when to e7pect roots. Try to keep
different strains organiBed in their own trays, watered separately.
Gse a fresh mi7 of nutrients, and keep the bottle sealed. pH can shift
radically, but usually wont do so for the first 6? days if the bottle#s kept
sealed, out of light, and at room temperature.
)lthough most clones will be ready to plant within 6?*6/ days, you can
keep them for months if need be by utiliBing certain preservation
methods=discussed below>.
)nd don#t forget HG.I8IT(, HG.I8IT(, HG.I8IT(. Hut don#t overdo it for
too long or you risk mold and damping off.
C)onin! 3 (t/-AB,A(t/-
If it#s your first shot at cloning, to help make things easier, I have created a
simple step*by*step printable section=condensing the above information and
adding a couple e7tras> so you can print it out and follow along easierO
(t/- 1? :irst you must select your mother plant. 'efer to the section above
titled MHonsai .othersN. Hegin by taking a sharp blade and cutting a healthy 1*/
inch branch=about / nodes`branchesa down> from the mother plant with a
steriliBed, clean, 0H)'! raBor blade or scissors. Take clones from the lower
branches of the vegetative females. ;ook for branches that are firm and
healthy=?.615 * ?.15 inches wide>. (ou will make an angular cut right before the
first set of nodes. .ake the cut at a /5 degree angle=diagonal> so there is more
surface area at the base of the stem for roots to initiate. Take your time to cut
very precisely, make sure you do not smash the end of stem when you#re
making the cut. Immediately dip your clone into water until you are ready to dip
it into growth hormone and plant it=or you can store your cut clones in water
while you are making more clones>. It is also recommended when making your
cut to slice it halfway between the sets of nodes.
(t/- %? (ou may have to trim off a set or two of leaves and growth nodes so
that the stem can fit into the medium. Wuickly trim off e7tra little
branchesFleaves and when ready to plant, immediately dip the clipping into your
already prepared rooting hormone. (ou need to leave at least two sets of leaves
235
above the soil line and one or two sets of trimmed nodes should be below
ground level.
(t/- 3? )fter applying your rooting hormone, gently place the cutting into a
moist=wet with distilled water>T'&)T&8.. grow medium='ockwool or Aasis
cubes are preferred>. Take some sort of chop stick, unsharpened pencil, bottom
of a pen etc to make a hole in the medium=a little larger than the stem> about
half an inch deep, leaving room for the root structure to develop. De7t gently
pack down around the stem. =+uttings and rooted cuttings can also be planted
in hydroponic units.>
Not/7 I6 usin! a rootin! "or8on/ -o$d/r or !/) 9//- a so)id )a,/r around t"/ st/8
$"/n !/nt), -ac9in! t"/ soi).
(t/- 4? ;ightly and evenly water the surface of your rooting medium until
moist, taking special care not to over*water and drown your clones# delicate
developing root system. Eeep your clones moist at all times. )t this point in
order to keep your clone success rate as close to 6??P it is recommended to
place them under a moisture dome=this will keep humidity in and help stimulate
root growth beyond measure> to retain high humidity.
(t/- .? !lace the clones 9 to 61 inches from a :lourescent light=cool*white and
warm*white bulbs being ideal>, and provide an 63*1/ hour daily photo
period=lights on>.
(t/- 6? )fter planting roots generally tend to start after around 5 days and
within 6/ days a complete root system will be grown and your plant is ready to
transplant.
+ull any clones that show signs of brown, rotting damaged roots. These clones
will have severely slow weakened growth.
Not/7 DonKt -anic A so8/ cuttin!s 8a, s"o$ si!ns o6 $i)t but r/!ain t"/ir "/a)t"
and ri!idit, $it"in in a cou-)/ da,s. I6 it ta9/s 8or/ t"an 6 or so da,s 6or ,our
c)on/ to r/!ain itKs ri!idit,C t"at is to sa, i6 it is sti)) $i)t/dC t"/n it -robab), $i))
!ro$ so s)o$), t"at it 8i!"t n/0/r catc" u- $it" t"/ ot"/rs. ItKs ad0is/d to /it"/r
r/8o0/ t"/s/ 6ro8 ,our !ard/n or 9//- t"/8 in ,our c)onin! c"a8b/r so t"/, can
236
!ro$ a stron!/r abundant root s,st/8.
(ou can place your clones in their cubes inside a tray lined with perlite. This will
create a nice moist environment. 8ome top retains humidity within and around
the plant. This is incredibly important for the first few days, humidity should be
<5 K 6??P. Touch the top of the surface and make sure it is evenly moist. !ay
very very close attention.
Not/7 A b1 <ita8in "/)-s sti8u)at/ root !ro$t"C ,ou can di- ,our c)on/s in t"is
b/6or/ -)antin!.
'A2NING7 2/8/8b/r to on), c)on/ -)ants t"at ar/ in t"/ir 0/!/tati0/
stat/. >t"at 8/ans t"/, ar/ r/c/i0in! 16A%4 "ours o6 )i!"t?.
C)onin! in 5/r)it/ U </r8icu)it/
!erlite and vermiculite, combined at a 6O6 ratio, make an effective, cheap, and
widely available cloning medium. 0imply mi7 5?P perlite with 5?P vermiculite,
add enough water so it#s moist, and fill your small containers. .ake sure you
keep your medium moist. $ashFr inse any new perlite with pH 9.? water to
remove any dust residue before use when cloning.
(t/-AB,A(t/-7
(t/- 1? !repare your mother plants at least 9 hours in advance with a fresh
drink of water so they are fully loaded before you cut.
(t/- %? Gsing a screwdriver, toothpick, or alien probing device, make a small
hole in the medium, appro7imately 4 cm deep at each clone site.
(t/- 3? Take the growing tips from the mother you wish to propagate with
sharp scissors * they should be around 9 to < cm in length.
(t/- 4? +ut off all leaves e7cept for the top 6 or 1, plus the small growing
shoot.
237
(t/- .? 'ecut the stem end with a sharp \*acto or scalpel, making it as angled
as possible for large surface area contact and water uptake.
(t/- 6? Aptionally dip the cut end into a rooting hormone containing fungicide.
(t/- R? +arefully insert into the growing medium, gently patting the hole
closed.
(t/- #? !lace containers in propagation tray and cover with humidity dome.
!lace prop tray on heating pad set to Qlow.Q
(t/- &? Eeep under fluorescent lighting, misting them daily for the first few
days if your climate re@uires. (ou might have to lightly water the medium once
or twice before roots show in 5 to 6/ days.
There are different QgradesQ or siBes of perlite and vermiculite. :or cloning, the
small to medium perlite and the medium to large vermiculite are best, but don#t
worry if you can#t find the e7act siBe you#re looking for. The 5?F5? mi7 holds
water rather well when there are no plant roots sucking it up, so don#t
overwater your cuts.
T"/ (i8-)/st C)onin! M/t"od Jno$n to Man
)s easy as cloning is to the masses that use powder, li@uidFgel rooting hormone,
bubblers and soil, etc, there is an even less comple7 method of cloning that is
so easy, it must have been around for decades, if not centuries. The only
ingredients involved are water, light, and the cutting you would like to root. In
the following e7ample, you can see cuttings of three different siBes of clone.
The first with two leaves and a single growing tip=0>. The ne7t has four nodes,
but still only a couple large leaves =.>. The third is 9N tall, has seven nodes and
several sets of good*siBed leaves =;>.
)s with normal cloning, you immediately dip the cutting in the water for about
65 to 4? seconds, tweaking it to dislodge any air bubbles that may be present.
238
Hut the biggest difference is, you wont be removing the cutting from the water
until it has roots big enough to support the foliage above. .ake sure the cup,
which contains the cutting, is opa@ue. This prevents the light from shining
directly on the roots.
The cool thing about this method is the lighting techni@ue. +loning using this
method works 6??P of the time simply by sitting cuttings on a windowsill that
receives no direct sunlight. In fact, slightly shaded would be even better. In the
evenings=short days>, you can sit them on an end table over seven feet from a
ceiling mounted 6??*watt incandescent bulb. )t bedtime, ust turn off the lights
like normal, and when you get up in the )... !lace them back on the
windowsill. 8uring the longer daylight hours they can be left on the sill full time.
Hut remember, no direct sunlight.
The picture shows three cuttings in their water cups. . L ; have barely an inch
of water to sit in. )ny more and it would cover one of the leaf stems. The
smaller one stayed in the plastic because the stem was too short to sit in water
and stay upright in the cup. 8o whats necessary to keep at least TN of the
stem in the water.
Dotice the glass that diffuses light, an e7tra measure against too much light
e7posure.
239
The clones grew roots at far different speeds. 0 showed in seven days, with a
small ]N long root and another small protrusion.
Hy the time =0>s roots reached this level of development=nine days>, =;> was
ust putting out the first nubs that would be roots. =.> has shown no inclination
of rooting at all. It boils down too the thickness of the stem. Hoth =.> L =;>
have the same siBe stem but =;> has far more foliage on top.
240
=0> is doing far better than the others=seen below> and =.> is finally starting to
show.
=.> showed roots in 6/ days and was planted on day 63.
This picture would be taken ust before transplant.
241
=;> showed roots on day 66 and was in soil at day 63.
This picture would be taken ust before transplant.
=0> showed roots at seven days and was in the soil at 65.
This picture would be taken ust before transplant.
Transplanting is as easy as it ever is. Gsing a pre*fertiliBed potting soil, mi7ed
with T perlite, you can use clear cups so you can see how soon they can be
removed from the humidity dome. :ill a / oB cup with soil mi7 and swirl a hole
an inch deep in the top, insert the plants roots and cover.
242
'A2NING7 Do not $at/r ri!"t a$a,1 'at/rin! $i)) actua)), d/)a, t"/
roots !ro$t" into t"/ n/$ 8/diu8. You $ant it a)8ost dr, b/)o$ so
t"/, s/arc" 6or t"/ 8oistur/. Ma9/ $"at/0/r 8i4 ,ou us/ s/8iA8oist
b/6or/ trans-)ant.
The dome you see is a cheapo 0tyrofoam cooler available from any grocery
store for X1*X4. Toss the lid and cover with saran wrap with a T doBen ]Q
holes in it. $hat you see in the picture is a spare piece of ple7i glass. It sits off
centre to provide some venting. 0imply set an open ar of water inside and
close. The ar itself will keep the humidity at around 55P. If you dont like this,
ust spray a couple times a day with water.
243
=;> showed itself almost overnight.
244
)ll were in the 41?*watt veg area in roughly three weeks from cutting to final
transplant.
Thats it, the easiest cloning method there is. Do spraying, no overheating, no
drying out, no hormones, ust plant, light and water. :ollowing these
instructions, there was a 6??P success rate. 0imple. If you#re on a budget and
this kind of method sounds good for you, go ahead and try it. -ood luck"
245
Trans-)antin! C)on/s
In appro7imately 4*5 weeks your cuttings will form a solid root structure. )t that
time it is time to transplant them to a larger container so that their root
structure can e7pand out and grow even further. .ake sure there is plenty of air
in the growth medium, as this will greatly enhance healthy root growth.
:ollowing this, in appro7imately 6*4 weeks, root structure should be developed
enough so that the cuttings can be placed directly under an HI8. (ou will then
take your female clones and place them in a larger growing medium. Transplant
only the strongest, vigorously*rooted clones. The lights will be located ust a few
inches above their tops. Eeep them growing in vegetative=following the light
cycle as recommended in the guide> and then flower them when ready.
:or best results and to ensure a heavy, frosty harvestJ do not transplant clones
until they develop a dense solid root system. 0igns that clones have rooted
include yellow leaf tips, roots growing out of drain holes, and the vertical growth
of your cuttings.
246
Not/7 '"/n trans-)antin! b/ 0/r, 0/r, car/6u) $it" t"/ d/)icat/ roots1
Transplanting is important as soon as plants outgrow their containers. This is
because plants with cramped root systems will grow sickly, stunted plants.
Try to keep the grow mediums the same to prevent plant transplantation shock.
If you are using rockwool to transplant into soil, you need to regulate moisture
levels for optimal results. ;et your rockwool cube dry out ust enough whilst
keeping the soil moist so that the roots will penetrate into the new growing
medium in search of moisture and nutrients.
Not/7 Bor b/st r/su)tsC $at/r ,our c)on/ $it" a "a)6Astr/n!t" bact/riu8 0ita8in B
co8-)/4>suc" as tric"od/r8a? a--ro4i8at/), % da,s b/6or/ ,ou trans-)ant.
247
Trans-)antin! C)on/s 3 (t/-Ab,A(t/-
(t/- 1? The first step is to prepare your new container. :ill a 1.5*4 gallon
container with @uality potting soil. :ill it up leaving about [1 inches between the
soil and the top rim of the container.
Not/7 '"/n cu)ti0atin! a bonsai 8ot"/r t"/n s"/ $i)) n//d a )ar!/r contain/rC
an,$"/r/ 6ro8 1*A3* !a))ons is id/a) i6 -)annin! to 9//- "/r 6or a ,/ar or )on!/r.
(t/- %? :ertiliBe your new grow medium by watering it with a @uarter strength
@uality hydroponic fertiliBer solution until your grow medium is ade@uately rich
and saturated. .ake sure the solution drains freely out of the bottom.
(t/- 3? !repare a hole=use your best udgment depending on the original
growing medium and root ball siBe> in your container.
(t/- 4? 2ery carefully pop the root ball out of it#s container. )n easy way to do
this is turn the container upside down placing your hand over the top with your
fingers in between the stem, flip the container over and slide it off allowing the
root ball to sit in the palm of your hand. He very careful not to disturb the
delicate roots"
(t/- .? -ently set the root ball into the prepared hole inside the new and
ready container.
(t/- 6? !ack around and fill soil around the root ball.
(t/- R? $ater. :or best results, mi7 a half*strength fertiliBer that ideally
contains trichoderma bacteria or vitamins=H>. (ou want your soil to be very wet,
yet draining freely.
(t/- #? !lace your plants near a light source. )t first an HI8 is too intense, to
remedy this simply place your container at the periphery of your garden or
under a screen. )fter a couple days of reduced*intensity light your plants should
begin to look strong and healthy, they will then be ready to be moved under full
light.
248
2ootin! +or8on/
'ooting hormones greatly speed up cellular*level plant processes. (ou see,
when a stem is taken and needs to develop roots in order to continue the
plant#s survival, it has to adapt and transform from producing green stem cells
to manufacturing new root cells. 'ooting hormones @uicken this process
tremendously. )s soon as you make your first cut, clones begin to naturally
create these hormones and send them to the wound. This takes about a week.
$hen you dip your cuttings into a rooting hormone it will fill in the need until
natural hormones take over and greatly speed up growth. $hen dipping, give
them a 5*6? second dip.
Dapthalenaecetic )cid=D))>, Indolebutyric )cid=IH)>, and 8ichloropheno7yacetic
)cid=8!)> are three substances that stimulate this process and greatly assist in
root cell production. ;ook for a commercial rooting hormone that contains all
three=if you can find it> of the above ingredients.
Not/7 '"/n 8i4in! and ,ou n//d to 6ind out t"/ --8>-arts -/r 8i))ion? o6 ,our
rootin! "or8on/C si8-), 8u)ti-), t"/ -/rc/nta!/ )ist/d on t"/ -roduct b, 1*C***.
Bor /4a8-)/C i6 ,our -roduct sa,s it contains .#G D5AC it contains #*** --8 D5A.
)nother great ingredient available in many products today to assist in clone
rooting is known as trichoderma bacteria. This bacteria when introduced to your
clones will cause the roots to grow faster and the bacterium also assists them in
absorbing nutrients better.
If using a spray, gel, or other form of rooting hormone make sure to follow the
instructions carefully. $hen spraying be sure to use only enough, do not spray
your clones so much that their leaves are dripping with rooting hormone.
'i))o$ Tr// 'at/r
If you#re looking for a trick to produce incredible speedy vigorous root growth
when cloning, you need to obtain natural $illow=tree> $ater. There#s a
substance inside of all willow trees that promotes incredible root growth.
Imagine those huge gigantic trees with their massive deep root systems" $hen
249
willow water is used on your tiny little clone#s root systems and mi7ed with
commercial growth hormone, it produces unbelievably awesome results" (ou will
be shocked at how fast and how vigorous your clones roots develop.
To make your willow tree water compound is easy" -o to your nearest $illow
Tree and locate branches that were grown this year. They should be
appro7imately 6.5 inches in diameter. 'emove any leaves and cut the stems into
6N lengths. !lace as many of these little chopped willow stems as you can
inside a glass or a @uart ar. 0oak them overnight for 1/ hours in distilled water.
)fter soaking, pour out the willow water to use it for an incredible rooting
hormone.
:or best results, simply soak your clones in the willow water rooting compound
for 1/ hours, then plant into your rooting medium. $hen using a commercial
rooting hormone compound, substitute the willow water in place of regular
water in the mi7.
<ariation7 'i))o$ 2ootin! +or8on/ T/a
+ut some willow branches=all willow species produce this natural rooting
hormone>, into 1Q or /Q long pieces. (ou should cut enough pieces to fill a bowl.
!ut the willow cuttings into a big kettle=or pot> on the stove, fill with water=all
cuttings should be covered by water>. Turn on minimum heat setting, cover with
a lid, and leave on low=but do not boil> for 1 hours. Then turn off heat and leave
kettle covered for 61 hours.
)fter the mi7ture has cooled for 61 hours, the willow water should be a dark
brown. 0train out the willow water, and discard the branches. !our the mi7ture
into a container with a plastic top with holes pre*made, and ust drop your
cuttings in. ;et the clones sit in the hormone for 61 to 1/ hours=thus allowing
the cuttings to fully absorb the rooting hormones>, then plant into your medium.
Gse as much rooting hormone as you re@uire, then discard the used portion.
The unused hormone can be stored in the ice bo7 for years.
250
C)onin! D/0ic/s
$hen you take cuttings and are ready to transplant you are going to need
some sort of device to keep your fragile clones in optimal conditions until they
grow strong roots. Abviously you will put them directly into a medium, but then
whatC
Here are a few devices used for this purposeO
T$o it/r Bott)/
This is probably the cheapest and easiest consistent method to root a small
number of clones. %ust cut the bottom /?P off a two liter soda bottle, put a
clone in rockwool or a whole small ar with another medium inside the bottom.
+over with a plastic bag and hold the bag down with a rubber band. Hefore
sealing give it a puff of e7haled air to fill it with +A1. This traps humidity inside *
it is normal and desirable for moisture to condense on the container. (ou will
need to e7change air every day until roots appear.
+u8idit, Do8/
The most common tool used is the humidity dome. These can be purchased for
[X6?*X65 G.0. 8ollars at any hydroponic grow shop.
251
They consist of a plastic tray that is ust the right siBe for a sheet of small
rockwool cubes to fit inside of. There is then a clear plastic cover that fits on top
of the tray to trap humidity. 8epending on the number and siBe of clones you
will need to e7change air between 6*4 times a day.
Bubb)/r
These can be purchased or constructed.
&ssentially a bubbler consists of a tray with a cover. In the cover there will be
numerous net pots and inside the tray will be water L a@uarium air stone strips.
The strips bubble air through the water causing the bursting bubbles to moisten
and o7ygenate the medium in the net pots. These can be used with or without a
humidity dome cover. If a cover is used air e7change is re@uired as per a simple
humidity dome.
252
'ic9 C)on/r
These simple and prolific cloners are generally constructed rather than
purchased. ) system similar to the bubbler is used with a tray and cover.
Instead of net pots the tray has half pint plastic containers suspended over the
water. ) wick, usually a 6T N piece of shoelace or strip of cloth, then goes from
a hole in the middle of the bottom of the container down into the water. The
containers are then filled with perlite. The wicks pull up moisture into the
perlite. ) dome cover is not used with this method.
253
A6t/r Cuttin! Car/
)fter you take your cutting and safely pack it into its new growing medium
home, the work isn#t done" This is the most delicate part of a clone#s life K this is
the critical stage that determines the health and vigor overall of your little
developing plant.
+o$ on! C)on/s Ta9/ To 2oot
)fter about a week you can test to see if your plants have started to root.
'emove the humidity dome and leave it off for between twenty minutes and
two hours. $atch the clones for any signs of wilting while the dome is removed.
If the plants have not wilted at all then they probably have enough root
development to support themselves. If no wilt is noticed leave the dome off, if
they are wilted, spray the cuttings and dome and replace the dome on the tray.
Ance you have determined that the plants can support themselves, stop misting
the cuttings and leave the humidity dome off.
254
'A2NING7 Onc/ t"/ -)ants "a0/ rootsC constant 8istin! can actua)),
b/ "ar86u) to t"/ -)ants1
i!"tin!
(ou#re probably wondering what amount of light is necessary to ensure the
clones ma7imum and fastest rooting time rightC $ell I will tell you" +lones root
the @uickest with 63*1/ hours of :luorescent light. It has been often
recommended by e7perienced growers that you shouldn#t use an HI8 light right
away, but if you must=if you do not have access to fluorescent lighting>, place
the plants on the perimeter of your garden so they receive less intense light.
(ou can also shade them with some sort of cloth or screen, this works e@ually
well.
(our cuttings are very delicate at first. To ensure they wont wilt, keep them in
an area that gets only a moderate amount of light. ;et the clones stay in a 9F63
=9 hours of light on, 63 hours of darkness>, in a micro*hothouse for the first two
days of soft fluorescent light. The darkness stimulates the clone to grow roots
instead of spending precious energy and resources on photosynthesis.
255
!lace the fluorescent tube 9 inches above your clones for optimal light e7posure
and growth enhancement. 8irect light will burn them because without roots the
stem cannot supply the leaves with enough water to match the leaves# rate of
transpiration.
Not/7 '"/n usin! 6)uor/sc/ntsC a co8bination o6 bot" coo) $"it/ and $ar8 $"it/
ar/ 8ost /4c/))/nt 6or rootin!.
8o not move clones below intense bright light until they have fully developed
their root systems"
B/rti)i=/rs
$hen rooting, clones re@uire minimum amounts of nitrogen, and high levels of
phosphorus. This will greatly assist in promoting fast vigorous root growth.
!recisely after 5 days your cuttings should be fertiliBed with a high phosphorus
fertiliBer. 8ilute it to ] of normal strength, once per week.
The key to getting a 6??P consistent clone survival rate is to practice your
cloning techni@ue until you get it absolutely perfect, down to the e7act amount
of fertiliBer at the e7act same time, including the same handling procedure and
light e7posureFmoisture levels etc. It takes practice, but with time and following
the tips outlined in this guide K you#ll get it sooner or later.
) common grower mistake is to think more is better. This is DAT the case with
fertiliBing" Aver*feeding your clones will greatly hinder and slow down root
growth. :ollowing the recommendations above is plenty.
Not/7 ,ou 8a, $ant to us/ a root co8-)/4 durin! t"/ !ro$in! -"as/ o6 ,our
cuttin!s. A root sti8u)ator is a -/r6/ct start/r 6or t"/ cuttin!s. It acti0at/s t"/
-)ants to d/0/)o- t"ic9 st/8s and a "/a)t", root s,st/8.
256
T/8-/ratur/
+old cuttings may never root. If the temperature at clone root level is less than
95Y:=63.4Y+>, you#ll want to use a heating mat. Temperatures of around
55*3?Y:=14.3*19.9Y+> will promote the best growth.
-" /0/)
The optimal pH level to support the best possible vigorous root growth in clones
is between 5 K 9.
'at/rin!
$atering clones is easy" %ust dip them in a very lightly fertiliBed=about 6??*
1??ppm> water, or make your own watering can=can use a standard plastic
waterbottle with holes poked into the cap>. !lant roots growth is greatly
enhanced by o7ygen. )irrate your water before use. (ou can do this easily by
shaking it vigorously.
257
The cube should DAT sit in water. )s long as humidity is high, you can spray
with the 9.5 pH solution twice a day for the first 1 days, then once a day until it
roots. Hut the humidity must be highJ you should see condensation inside on
the tray walls and maybe the leaves. I also spray the walls of the tray to keep it
humid. 0pray only the leaves not the cubes.
Eeep in mind that the longer you have humid conditions the more likely it is to
get mold or fungusJ rooting @uickly is one way to avoid lengthy humid
conditions.
$ater must be provided by plant#s leaves and the cut stem until roots can
supply it. $hen watering your rooting medium make sure to keep the surface
evenly moist, taking special care not to over*water and drown your poor plant#s
newly*forming root system. $ater as needed to keep the grow medium evenly
moist and never let it get soggy"
'A2NING7 DO NOT o0/rA$at/r ,our -r/cious c)on/s1 J//- t"/
8/diu8 /0/n), 8oist. You donKt $ant it to !/t so!!, or dro$n ,our
roots1
+heck for roots around the eighth day by opening a cube in half very carefully.
$hite roots should be e7iting the node.
+o$ do I 9no$ i6 t"/ roc9$oo) cub/ r/Duir/s $at/rin!@
To get watering of rockwool cubes absolutely right, use scales. $eigh a dry
cube. Then, saturate a cube and weigh it. 0ubtract the weight of the dry cube
from the wet one. (ou now know how much water is in the cube when fully
saturated=6gU6ml>.
(our cube needs water when weight drops to 1?*/?P of saturated weight. Ance
you have done this a few times, you will be able to estimate the weight and
need for water by feel.
$hen using this approach with clones, you#ll have to guess the weight of the
clone * perhaps 6?*15g depending on the siBe of the cuts. $hen weighing a
258
cube with a clone, subtract the estimated clone weight and dry cube weight
from what is measured to closely estimate water available in the cube.
In most cases, especially when using a seedling warming mat, they will re@uire
water once every 1/ hours. +ubes should never completely dry out.
'at/rin! T"/ Indi0idua) Cub/s
Immerse the cube halfway into a bucket of pH adusted =[5.?> water for a few
seconds. -ently shake out=but don#t s@ueeBe> e7cess water.
'ooted clones=roots are showing from the cube> should get fully soaked for
about 65 seconds, as they have the capacity to uptake water rapidly and will
use that @uantity in 1/ hours. Gnrooted clones should ust get a little dipJ 4*5
seconds at most. EeyO .oist is better than saturated for encouraging root
formation.
8o not allow cubes to stand in water. If e7cess water drains into the tray they
sit in, empty it out.
0tart high nitrogen nutrients when roots have emerged from the bottom of the
cube * ] strength for first four to five days, T * ^ the ne7t four to five days,
then full tilt thereafter.
This method should give 35*6??P success, with roots showing in 5*5 days and
profuse root development in 6? days.
259
+u8idit,
$hen cloning it is important to keep environmental factors at optimal levels to
ensure as near as 6??P success rate as possible. Ane of the most influential
components of clone success to regulate properly is the humidity, also known as
moisture level in the air. +lones will root the fastest when humidity levels are at
<5*6?? percent for the first two days, and gradually decreased to 3?*35 percent
during the following week. )ir should be appro7imately 5?Y:=16.6Y+>.
If you want a successful harvest, it is strongly advised by many veteran growers
to place your clones under a moisture dome=this will keep humidity in and help
stimulate root growth greatly> to retain high humidity. He sure to mist them
fre@uently with a spray bottle filled with distilled water, and remove the dome
several times daily to make sure that they receive fresh air. The reason you mist
them fre@uently=yes, the tops included> is because these clones have no
beginning root structure to supply water to the plant. $hen the plants are
covered in moist water they will not dry out fast due to the humidity you are
supplying them while they begin to establish their fragile little root structures.
Not/7 I6 ,ouKr/ stra--/d 6or cas" ,ou can /asi), 8a9/ ,our o$n "u8idit, t/nt
usin! "ard -)asticC -)astic ba!sC or !)ass. It is b/st to bu, on/ t"ou!" 6or 8a4i8u8
r/su)ts.
260
Transpiration is the process in which water and nutrients travel up the stem
from the roots to the leaves, where they are used in photosynthesis. Tiny hairs
called stomata=tiny breathing pores located on the underside of the leaf> sweat
out the moisture to allow the stream of nutrients to continue flowing. $ind aids
in transpiration by blowing the moisture off the stomata, which is why the
humidity dome is so important.
)nother way to protect the stomata is to spray a light wa7 onto the cuttings.
This slows transpiration to the point where you don#t even need a lid, and the
wa7y coating serves as a protection against pests. I suggest you ust try using a
humidity dome at first, as this wa7 method can be a bit tricky and an
undesirable option for organic*intended growers.
'emove the lid once a day and fan the cuttings with it for a few seconds. 0ome
growers like to cut small holes into the corners of the lid so that there is a little
ventilation. !utting holes into the corners of the tray to also benefits by allowing
for drainage if the plants become over*watered. The roots need o7ygen to thrive
and survive"
;eave the cube in a humidity dome at around 3?*35Y:=19.9*1<./Y+>, with about
4?*/? $attsFs@ ft of fluorescent lighting on for 1/ hours a day.
261
+/atin! C)on/s
+lones root best when the grow medium is warmer than the ambient air
temperature of the room. $hen the medium is a few degrees warmer it
increases the chemical activity and hastens root formation. -rowing medium
should be 55*3?Y:=14.3*19.9Y+>, as this is best. )nything above 35Y:=1<./Y+>
can be dangerous and harm the plants. Heating mats help dry out and warm
the cubes.
Aftentimes here a heating pad, heating cables, or an incandescent light bulb
placed below the rooting cuttings is used. (ou will want to keep the air
temperature 5 to 6?Y:=*65 to *61.1Y+> cooler than the medium. ) warm
growing medium combined with a cooler air temperature will slow diseases and
conserve moisture levels.
2/duc/ Cuttin! (tr/ss
Hy controlling light levels, humidity and temperature, your ob is to keep the
delicate cutting in a complete state of dormancy. +uttings with out roots are
very sensitive to stress. &very effort should be made to minimiBe evaporation
from the cuttings and avoid e7treme light and temperature levels. Eeep humidity
as close to 6?? percent as possible and maintain water and substrate
temperatures at between 5?*3/Y:=16*1<Y+>. +ooler water will slow root
formationJ warmer water will encourage disease. The lower the humidity level,
the more water the plant will transpire, causing the cutting to use up stored
food for things other than root production. It is important to hold the leaves as
dormant as possible and permit the cutting to use more of it#s energy on root
development.
262
5r/s/r0in! C)on/s in t"/ Brid!/
(ou can keep clones stored for later use for a couple of months in a cold
refrigerator K ust soak them in cold water and then transfer to a Bip lock bag.
Apen the bag every week or so to allow fresh air in. (ou can also place them
inside a damp paper towel or cloth. Eeep the temperature in your refrigerator
above /?Y:=/./Y+>. Temperatures below this level might cause the plant cells to
damage.
This can be useful for a number of reasons. It is possible for very small
cultivators to grow without the use of mother plants. It is also possible to hold
the males in reserve without wasting space or having to worry about dropped
pollen. Holding clones in the fridge offers many new possibilities for testing
many different males, holding strains while evaluating, changing the way you
time your mothers, etc.
+lones that are stored in the fridge this way actually root faster than non*
fridged clones once they are removed K up to a point of 1 or 4 weeks, when
they will take longer to root and you may lose a few. $hen they are removed
from the fridge to be replanted, be sure to recut the stem with a sharp clean
steriliBed raBorblade, knife, or \*)cto knife.
)nother method of preserving your clones is by purchasing a commercially
available gel that will enable you to store your cut clones until needed.
(ellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or
the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any +A1 until
they root. Too much fertiliBer can shrivel or wilt clones * plain tap water is fine.
263
+a0in! Troub)/ C)onin!@
0ome varieties are easier to clone than others. There are 0ativas that will sprout
roots so easy, you can=almost> stick them in the ground and forget about em#.
Hut then there are some early Indicas that you can baby and they will ust sit
there and starve to death. Here are some things to focus on.
+/)- t"/ roots !ro$7 :igure out where the roots will grow on your cutting
before you actually cut it. Eeep this portion of the stem dark for a week or two
by wrapping some tape around it. This is called QetiolationQ and will encourage
rooting. .ake the cutting with a sharp anvil pruner or very sharp pair of
scissors, and steriliBe them after each cut. ) dull pruner will crush the stem and
it will be harder for the roots to form. ) raBor blade will make an even cleaner
cut, which will also help rooting, but be careful not to cut yourself. Try to make
the cut at an angle to increase the surface area it has to absorb water.
Air Bubb)/s7 The plant needs air to help the roots form, but don#t let any get in
the stem. This will cut off the capillary action and make the poor cutting work
ten times harder. Immediately submerse the cut end in water or rooting solution
to prevent this from happening. (ou could even take it over to the sink and
make a second cut under running water if you#re really worried about it. ;eave
the cutting in the rooting solution for a day or so. If you ust leave it in the
264
water, you might get lucky and sprout some roots, but they really need some
o7ygen. (ou can actively provide A1 by aeration or passively aerate by using an
airy medium.
)nother thing that makes the cutting work harder is breathing itself. .ake good
use of your plastic dome or humidity tent to limit transpiration and keep the
medium from drying out. )nother way to limit transpiration is to cut about half
off of each leaflet. (ou will still have the same number of leaves on the stem,
but the surface area has decreased. This also helps control fungus by
preventing the leaves from contacting the dome or the medium.
i!"tin!7 The proper lighting is also important. 8irect sunlight will heat the air
in the dome too much, but they#re not going to root in the dark either.
:luorescents are ideal for this. )n HI8 is AE if its not too close, or you could
even give them a bit of indirect sun from a window if you can keep them warm.
(ouve kept an eye on the pH and the notes, and you see its starting to grow
again, so its safe to assume that it has roots and you can remove the humidity
dome. Accasionally a cutting may wilt a little at first, but give it a mist and it
should perk up. If none of these tips help, either consider tissue culture or
finding a different mother.
'i)tin! C)on/s
If your clones are wilting make sure they#re firmly seated in the medium. If they
are Qtoo firmlyQ seated, you may have bent or broken the stem and stopped
water uptake. .ake sure that the lights aren#t too bright, fluoros are all that#s
needed. De7t time, an anti*transpiration spray will greatly reduce wilting * they
form a wa7y barrier that keeps water inside the cutting.
The cuttings may be too large with too much leaf mass. (ou can trim off the
half of the fan leaves to reduce area or take smaller cuttings.
)nd remember to monitor closely the ambient air temperature as anything
above 3?Y:=19.9Y+> is starting to get too hot and this will serve to accelerate
both transpiration and the drying out of your medium.
266
Gro$in! Marijuana +,dro-onica)),
-rowing mariuana hydroponically is method of growing cannabis plants without
soil. The plants get fed by soluble fertiliBers that are dissolved in water.
Hydroponic gardening can be more productive than soil growing, but it is not
267
nearly as forgiving. 0oil works as a buffer for nutrients and holds on to them
longer than a hydroponic grow medium does. Hydroponic grow mediums
contain no nutrients * all the nutrients are supplied via a nutrient solution.
+ontrary to popular belief, hydroponic gardens often re@uire more care than soil
gardens. Hecause the plants grow faster, there are more things to check and
way more things that can go wrong.
How it basically works is that scientists in the 6<
th
century discovered plant roots
absorb the nutrients when dissolved in water. 0oil acts as a nutrient reservoir,
but the soil itself is not essential for plant growth. Hydroponic gardening is ideal
if you are looking for massive bud @uantities or growing bud all year long. .ost
growers claim a hydroponic system will grow plants much much faster than a
soil medium, given the same genetics and environmental conditions. :ast
growth allows for earlier maturation which means shorter total growth time per
crop. The plant#s in a hydroponic garden system also breathe easier, therefore
their growth time is greatly reduced.
268
Hydroponics should be used indoors or in greenhouses to speed the growth of
plants * so you have more delicious bud in less time. Hydroponics allows you to
water the plants daily, and this will speed growth. )lso, hydroponically grown
plants do not derive nutrients from soil, but from the solution used to water the
plants. Hydroponics reduces worries about mineral buildup in soil, and lack of
o7ygen to suffocating roots, so leaching is usually not necessary with
hydroponics. Hydroponics allows you to use smaller containers for the same
given siBe plant, when compared to growing in soil. ) 4F/ gallon pot can easily
take a small hydroponically grown plant to maturity. This would be difficult to do
in soil, since nutrients are soon used up and roots become cut*off from o7ygen
as they become root*bound in soil.
This problem does not seem to occur nearly as @uickly for hydroponic plants,
since the roots can still take up nutrients from the constant solution feedings,
and the medium passes on o7ygen much more readily when the roots become
bound in the small container. !lant food is administered with most waterings,
and allows the gardener to strictly control what nutrients are available to the
plants at the different stages of plant growth. $atering can be automated to
some degree with simple and cheap drip system apparatus, so take advantage
of this when possible. Hydroponics will hasten growing time, so it takes less
269
time to harvest after planting. -rowing Hydroponic mariuana will also produce
very potent and clean crops. +lean crops should be of concern if you are using
the mariuana you grow for medical reasons or selling it to a clinic.
T"/ B/n/6its7
Do soil is needed, so the entire operation is easier and cleaner.
Do nutrition pollution is released into the environment because of the
controlled system.
Increased plant growth rates and yields with improved aromatics,
potency and taste.
8ry spots and root drowning do not occur.
The water stays in the system and can be reusedJ lower water costs.
It is possible to control the nutrition levels in their entiretyJ lower
nutrition costs and more potent specialiBed formula.
Do MrepottingN labor if rockwool is used.
2ery clean, potent crops.
!ests and diseases are easier to get rid of than in soil because of the
container#s mobilityJ clean, potent crops.
:ast total growth time.
Hydroponics can be used in places where in*ground agriculture or
gardening is not possible, such as a bedroom.
0table and high yields.
270
T"/ Disad0anta!/s7
!rice tag.
'egular maintenance is re@uired.
'e@uires close monitoring of pH and ppm levels.
Total reliance on constant electricity.
Dutrient screw*ups are less forgiving than soil.
In addition to the above disadvantages, larger plants can deplete 5 litres of
water in a single day so you are also in constant danger of the system literally
running out of water. To emphasiBe this a little better, as plants uptake water
they do not necessarily uptake nutrients at the same rate and as this occurs, the
plants might be drinking lots of water but not eating much food. The result is
that in a matter of hours, as the water is depleted, the concentration of the
nutrients in the bucket can reach to7ic levels. 0o it is critical to always under
feed your plants in this system. $ith this in mind, the pH will also fluctuate as
the water is depleted but the nutrients are not. 0o, you are advised to keep a
constant check on monitoring and maintaining this system.
Dow, assuming you#re new to growing hydroponics, most of the people who
want to learn how to do it never get around to it thinking it is going to be some
insurmountable herculean task, and I am here to tell you that growing
hydroponic mariuana is actually pretty simple, anyone can learn and succeed in
due time. 0o have at it"
'emember you start it is important to fully acknowledge that growing
hydroponic mariuana re@uires a decent amount of monitoring L regular
maintenance, so if you plan on being away from your grow area for e7tended
periods of time then hydroponic growing may not be the best option.
271
+,dro-onic Tast/
0ome growers feel that +annabis or any other plant grown hydroponically using
chemical fertiliBer salts, must have a chemical taste. This is not always the case
and has been shown in many research studies that hydroponically grown
produce tastes no different than that which is soil grown. !lants that are
hydroponically grown take up plant nutrients in e7actly the same way as a plant
does in the soil, no matter what the original source of nutrients =organic or
inorganic>was, if you can notice a difference in taste, it may be you have not
flushed or cured correctly. 0till, others are convinced soil grown entirely organic
holds supreme bud taste, and this is logical. Try both and see for yourself. If you
want to play it safe, stick with organics.
272
+o$ +,dro-onic Gro$in! 'or9s
The gist of it is simply thisO a reservoir containing your nutrient solution is
located below a growing tray. The growing tray contains the containers that
hold the plants growing in some medium such as rockwool, clay pebbles, sand,
gravel, etc.
The system itself consists of a top layer and a bottom lower layer. The top layer
holds your grow medium and the bottom layer holds the water with added
nutrients. The plant is grown in the medium where it will develop it#s stem and a
set of roots. The roots will then grow through the medium and down into the
nutrient solution. The bottom layer growing bed is filled with nutrient solution
using a small pump on a timer that feeds and waters the plants. The timer then
shuts off the pump and the nutrient solution drains freely back into the
reservoir.
273
)nother great thing about hydroponics is that due to the plants# hanging root
structure, they get e7posed to air. This allows the plants to beautifully flourish"
) key secret of hydroponics is that the plant#s energy can be used for
ma7imiBing growth instead of wasting precious energy on growing roots in soil
and searching for water, food, and air. -et ready for a mass of root clusters" )s
you will come to see, .ariuana plants truly thrive in Hydroponic systems.
If you decide to go with a hydroponics system over soil, you will not be
disappointed as the results are nothing short of incredible.
Hydroponics have become massively popular among modern cannabis growers
today. Hydroponics isn#t all milk and honey though, if you do not properly
maintain your garden your plants will die off ust as @uickly as they will flourish
into frosty big buds. Hydroponics allows growers to grow bigger and higher
@uality buds in ^ the time it takes to grow the same strain in soil.
C"oosin! Your +,dro-onic Gard/n (,st/8
Dow that you have chosen your ideal grow location, you will now need a
hydroponic system, also commonly referred to as a Hydroponic -arden. There
are different types of hydroponic systems available to mariuana growers today.
Hydroponic systems are distinguished by the way that the nutrients are applied.
!assive systems have no moving parts, so seldom does anything break or
malfunction. These passive systems rely on capillary action to transfer nutrients
to roots from the reservoir to the grow medium via a pump. -rowing mediums
such a peat moss and vermiculite are ideal for passive systems. ;ow initial cost,
and low maintenance are the main reasons why growers choose passive
systems.
)ctive hydroponic systems actively move the nutrient solution. &7amples of
these include flood L drain=also known as &bb L :low>, nutrient film techni@ue,
and top feed. )ctive hydroponic systems use growing mediums that drain
rapidly and hold plenty of air=such as e7panded clay, pummus rock, rockwool
and coconut fiber>.
274
The ones most commonly used today by growers worldwide are .anual
hydroponics pots, )utomatic hydroponics !ots, )eroponics, 8rip Irrigation
0ystems, Dutrient :ilm Techni@ue =D:T>, and :lood L 8rain &bb L :low. Eeep in
mind the D:T and )eroponic systems are the most efficient types of systems,
but they are the hardest to maintain and the most e7pensive. &bb L :low tends
to be the easiest, these have proven track records of the easiest to use with low
maintenance.
B)ood U Drain 3 Ebb U B)o$
The &bb and :low system is currently the most popular hydroponic method for
growing weed. It will produce potent @uick*flowering crops and is easy to use"
This is an all*in*one system. The plant is grown in the medium where it will
develop it#s stem and a set of roots. The roots will then grow through the
medium and down into the nutrient solution. The bottom layer growing bed is
filled with nutrient solution using a small pump on a timer that feeds and waters
275
the plants. The timer then shuts off the pump and the nutrient solution drains
freely back into the reservoir.
) basic &bb L :low setup will have the individual plants and pots set up in
rockwool cubes or some other growing medium on a table called the growing
bed. The growing bed can usually hold about 1 inches of nutrient solution.
Dutrient solution is then pumped onto the table or growing bed, flooding the
medium from the bottom up while also pushing out o7ygen. Ance the li@uid
nutrient solution reaches it#s ma7imum level a drain pipe is filled.
)n ebb and flow system uses a timer to activate a pump that periodically floods
the plants grow medium with nutrient solution and then drains the solution out.
Aften these system are designed using two plastic tubs, one sitting in another.
The bottom tub contains the nutrient solution reservoir, the water pump, and an
air stone =more o7ygen means healthier roots> and the top tub or tray contains
the plants. ) single hole in the top tub allows the pump tubing into the tub,
when the pump shuts off or in the event of a pump failure the water drains right
back down the hole it came out of.
276
It is usually best to put another hole where it will drain down to the bottom tub
at the highest level you want the water to reach. This prevents flooding. )
system like this can run at different intervals depending on the grow medium
you use but a common choice is 65min on and off cycles, or 4? minute on and
off cycles.
He very careful with a system like this. If a pump failure is not detected plants
can die in a very short time period.
pH and Dutrient problems can be corrected in the reservoir with the need to
fiddle with the plants themselves.
Nutri/nt Bi)8 T/c"niDu/
)n D:T system is an all*in*one package system. The reservoir that holds the
pump and nutrient solution is contained within the same system. This enables a
constant flow of aiirated nutrients to the roots=located in gullys> and the runoff
nutrient solution is then directed back into the reservoir. These systems tend to
be flat, and long.
277
D:T generally involves plants potted so their roots dangle down into a thin film
of constantly running nutrient solution. This techni@ue can work well for large
scale hydroponic growing operations but if the nutrient film is interrupted it can
be devastating.
) separate reservoir is maintained in this techni@ue and it is not commonly used
in practice.
0eedlings or cuttings with a strong root system are placed on capillary
matting=located on the bottom of covered channels>. +onstantly aiirated nutrient
solution flows down the channel=gully> over and around the roots and back to
the reservoir. Anly growers with a year or so more of e7perience should try
growing with a Dutrient :ilm Techni@ue setup, as they tend to be @uite tricky"
Dri- Irri!ation (,st/8 a9a ETo- B//dF
The 8rip Irrigation 0ystem is another all in one system that feeds each plant
individually. &ach plant is located in separate chambers where the nutrients are
fed to the medium by means of a small dripper. The solution is cycled and
drained very much like an &bb L :low system.
278
D//- 'at/r Cu)tur/ a9a ET"/ Bubb)/rF
)nother effective hydroponics system is the classic simple Hydroponics system
known as 8eep $ater +ulture=8$+> or called by it#s street name, MThe bubblerN.
-rowing in a deep water culture system is easy and productive. The benefits of
using this system is that it is very cheap to assemble and it provides pretty good
growth rates. )s you will see, the bubbler is also a very fun rewarding way to
grow some serious buds.
) Hubbler, as complicated as it may sound, is actual @uite simple. It#s basically a
bucket with a pump. 0eedlings or clones are held in net pots in e7panded clay
pellets, rockwool, or another growing medium. The net pots are nestled in holes
in a lid that covers the reservoir. $hile the roots of seedlings and cuttings
dangle down into the nutrient solution, a submersible pump lifts nutrient
solution to the top of a discharge tube where it splashes into the access lid.
Dutrient solution then cascades down, wetting the roots and splashing back into
the self*contained reservoir below, aka it HGHH;&0 constantly. The potential of
this little hydroponics system is awesome K it can grow a plant from 5 ft. to 3ft.
with an abundance of fresh @uality buds. That is, if you maintain it properly.
279
+o$ To (tart Marijuana (//ds In D'C (,st/8
) deep water culture setup is e7cellent for the personal use mariuana grower.
0tarting mariuana seeds for this popular cannabis growing method is rather
easy. This system is e7cellent for germinating mariuana seeds.
0tart with standard rockwool cubes. 0oak them in water. -et your mariuana
seeds ready. $hen your cubes have soaked up enough water take them to a
bathtub. -ive them 1 or 4 hardy shakes. 8A DAT 0WG&&I& AGT"
) few hard shakes will release plenty of water, making air pockets within the
cube itself. These air pockets are very important for mariuana seed growth. Hy
shaking out the cube you keep your mariuana seed from drowning to death=too
much moisture will kill delicate little mariuana seedlings>.
!oke the mariuana seed in the rockwool cube where the hole is pre*made. If
you find that#s too big for your mariuana seeds, turn the cube over and poke a
smaller hole.
$ith most of the water out, pick the mariuana seeds you want to grow and
drop them in the hole about 6F/Q*6F1Q down. +arefully s@ueeBe the hole closed
and place in a humidity dome. ;ight isn#t all that important until the mariuana
seed sprouts, however its very important to keep the temps around
3?Y:=19.9Y+>. $armth will speed up the process considerably.
$ithin / to 5 days=up to 6/> you should see mariuana seedlings poking out of
the cube.
$hen this occurs move the cubes to a 1 gallon rooter 8$+ bucket with 4Q net
pot holes with a few rocks on the bottom to support the cube. ;eave plenty of
space for the roots to grow.
This method of mariuana seed germination isn#t too difficult to learn. It might
take a few times to master, but use the free mariuana seeds most mariuana
seed banks offer to learn on.
These free mariuana seeds are e7cellent way to learn germination without
280
possibly ruining the best mariuana seeds you actually want to grow.
8eep $ater +ulture is e7cellent for the personal use mariuana grower who
plants a few mariuana seeds. The method of gardening cannabis is known to
produce very heavy yields.
Auto8atic +,dro-onics 5ots U Manua) +,dro-onics 5ots
These systems consist of pots used for growing one plant at a time. &ach pot
has it#s own pump that delivers the nutrients. (ou can also feed them by hand.
The nutrients are fed into the bottom of the pot until they reach the roots, then
the roots suck up the nutrients until dry, where more nutrient solution is then
added and the cycle continues. These Hydroponic 0ystems are ideal for the
grower who wishes to grow very large bushy cannabis plants in a simple stand*
alone unit.
'ic9:+/8-, Buc9/t7 $ick systems and Hempy buckets are very similar. In a
wick system a pot with medium has a wick placed down it that e7tends down
into a reservoir and draws up nutrients via capillary action as they are needed or
water evaporates. This is much like the way a lantern or wick lighter works,
281
drawing flammable fluid up the wick to be burned until it is e7hausted.
) simple 1.5 to 5 gallon bucket has a 4F/ inch hole drilled about 1*1.5 inches
above the bottom.
8epending on the medium and siBe of the medium used it may not be needed
but it is common to glue a piece of plastic screening over the hole on the inside
of the bucket. This bucket is then filled with a mi7ture of perlite and vermiculite
=popular mi7es are 4 parts perlite to 6 part vermiculite and 6 part vermiculite to
6 part perlite>.
The bucket is then watered with full strength nutrient solution every 4*/ days,
you water until nutrient comes out the hole in the bottom. This flushes out any
built up nutrient salts with every watering assuring that you have a perfect
balance.
) hempy is as simple as hydroponics gets and is capable of producing the same
yields and @uality output as other more comple7 hydroponic systems. Hecause it
allowed to mostly dry between waterings and pulls nutrients up via perlite
wicking the roots are very well o7ygenated. 0ince fresh nutrient is added every
4*/ days there is no reservoir to become imbalanced. )lthough it looks like dirt
the perliteFvermiculite medium is completely inert, it contains no nutrients and
provides no pH or nutrient buffer. !lants can drink all the nutrient they want ust
as in other hydroponic systems.
The hempy system has the advantage that because it is simple there are fewer
mistakes to be made. )lso important is the fact that the hempy bucket has no
pumps of any kind that can fail without you noticing. Hempy buckets can be
used in a greenhouse outdoors with no power at all. ;ike a soil grow the
medium retains moisture so you can leave the bucket for up to a week with no
adverse affects.
The downfalls compared with other hydroponic systems are that plants must be
moved one by one in buckets if moved. (ou also must water a hempy bucket by
hand every 4*/ days and with a large number of plants that can become very
labor intensive. :or instance, for someone who could not carry a five gallon
bucket filled with water a hempy installation of more than 4*/ plants would
282
probably be unmanageable unless the water source was very close by. Hecause
you flush out the nutrient solution and any unused nutrients in it every few days
the hemp bucket also re@uires more nutrients than other hydroponic methods.
A/ro-onics
)eroponics are an e7tremely efficient hydroponics systems. &7pert growers
unanimously agree, these are the best systems money can buy.
)eroponic systems are very e7pensive and generally are only used by
professional growers. They offer the highest performance possible featuring
unsurpassed plant growth, resin, potency and yields with incredible aromatics
and taste. They also re@uire heavy maintenance and great attention to detail.
)eroponic systems re@uire e7tremely close monitoring of pH and ppm levels and
have a total reliance on constant electricity.
)eroponics is a relatively new techni@ue. ;ike in D:T, plants are suspended over
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the nutrients, but instead of a film of moving nutrients there are instead air
stones spread under the roots in the nutrients that highly o7ygenates them and
produces bubbles. The bubbles burst and splash the roots with highly
o7ygenated nutrient solution.
This can stimulate very impressive root growth, which leads to unbelievable bud
growth. In practice aeroponics aren#t considered especially
effective for large plant growth, though there is no
theoretical reason they could not be. This type of system
is very often used for maintaining small clones.
There is no growing medium to act as a water nutrient
bank, which makes the system very delicate to use. The
plants are grown in a medium that is placed into slots
along a long tube. 'oots are suspended in a dark chamber
without growing medium where they are misted with
o7ygen rich nutrient solution at regular intervals. If the
pump fails roots will soon dry and plants will suffer almost
immediately. Tubes can vary in length anywhere from 6
meter to 1? meters" ;ooking inside the tube we will
discover noBBles which mist down the roots of each plant
284
with grow nutrients. The nutrient*filled reservoir is kept outside the tube in a
tank. The nutrients are pumped from the tank into and out of the noBBles and
then the remaining solution that drips down from the plants is drained into
another tank that is monitored and modified before being recycled and used
again.
Gro$in! t"/ (t/a)t" +,dro 'a,
0ome growers want to reap the amaBing benefits of utiliBing hydroponic growing
methods to enoy the unbelievable bud they produce, but they feel they can#t
afford these e7pensive systems or worse yet, can#t fit them in their limited grow
space. $ell, 0tealth Hydro has done it again and came up with a solution for
modern day growers. .any growers right now are raving about their newly
developed Hubbleponics line. Their most popular MbeginnerN Hubbleponics
system right now can grow si7 huge flowering plants and they#ve made it
available for only X<<" It literally is the world#s first continuous plant feeding
system. Hubbleponics is a hybrid design that takes the best from both worlds of
the bubbler and drip systems. 0ince the nutrient mi7 is highly o7ygenated,
285
Hubbleponics converts its drip function to a constant feed flow directly to the
inner roots. $ithout needing to take breaks to allow the root base to drain and
absorb o7ygen, plants in the Hubbleponics system are able to deliver
unparalleled growth energy.
=)boveO 0tealth Hydro#s famous system, The Hubbleponics 9 !lant 0tarter Eit.>
This advantage is particularly pronounced during early vegetative phases when
the plants root mass is still relatively small. +uttings placed into the system
e7perience no noticeable transplant shock and practically start growing
immediately. In e7periments measured against leading )eroponic systems, the
Hubbleponics design shaved, on average, four days from a two week growing
cycle, a 4?P growth rate increase over )eroponics in the early vegetative stageJ
truly amaBing. This is incredible, a small*time closet grower with one of their
systems can reap the &\)+T=actually more> benefits of e7tremely e7pensive
professional )eroponic systems, and the best part is they#re super ine7pensive.
.any growers report MunrealN buds coming from these systems. Hut shhh keep
it a secret, people aren#t going to believe the buds you#re going to be holding in
your hands.
)s the root mass of the respective plants grow larger, growth rate advantages
were less evident, however, the plants in the Hubbleponics planter maintained
their /*5 day lead over the )eroponic plants throughout the entire cycle.
In a series of stress tests, plants in the Hubbleponics system performed
remarkably when recovering from an over*fertiliBed condition. $ith almost the
286
entire root mass destroyed, Hubbleponics was able to revive 95P of the plants
which started re*growing new roots and were able to complete their cycle. Done
of the other plants in the )eroponic products survived this stress test. The tests
concluded that the Hubbleponics system provided significant recovery
advantages over other systems when it came to anything that stressed or killed
that root mass.
The Hubbleponics system is great for the grower who is turned on to the
incredible benefits hydroponic systems offer growers, but turned off from the
heavy maintenance and complicated operation involved. 0tealth Hydro has
designed their Hubbleponics line with ease of use in mind. +onsidering that
there are no timers to set and tweak for the water pump, and that the unit is
totally self contained and mobile, this is one of the simplest hydroponic designs
most growers report they have ever used. :rom setup to final clean up, bar
none, one of the best high speed hydroponic systems on the market. 0tealth
Hydro#s Hubbleponics line has raised the bar and changes everything we are to
e7pect from modern*day hydroponics.
Bina) Consid/rations
Hefore you make your final decision on what type of hydro system you are going
to use, consider these last critical factors. It is important with any hydroponic
system to remember that unlike with soil, there is no buffer. !lants will respond
very @uickly if there are no nutrients being supplied andFor water or the pH of
the nutrient solution is incorrect. 'oots need high o7ygen levels or they will rot.
)nd remember that plants need space to grow and should never be planted
where their roots will intermingle.
If you can effectively monitor and maintain a hydroponic system, go for it. (ou
will not be disappointed. They are incredibly fun systems to grow some
awesome weed in.
287
O4,!/n
Hands down the single most important aspect of Hydroponics. The importance
of clean fresh air or o7ygen in the water is critical for vigorous plant growth=aka
dense heavy big resin*rich potent buds">. )dd an air pump. Heck, add two. The
addition of a 1nd air stone can make a significant difference in the speed of
growth. (ou can use a plastic T*coupler so you can add a second stone to the
one air pump. (ou can force growth spurts by draining the tank, waiting five or
ten minutes to allow the roots to Qair outQ and then replenishing the water, even
if you add back the same water and nutrient mi7 that you ust drained out. Try
it" (our plants will thank you.
288
i!"tin!
'efer to the ;ighting section, same
rules apply. /?? watts is about the
best siBe of light for growing
hydroponic mariuana in a
personal garden. (ou should be
able to grow about / to 61 plants
at a time. 15? watts should be
good enough for up to about
1 to 9 plants. )nything bigger
=ne7t standard siBe is 6??? watts>
and you are going to draw a lot of
electricity. )nything smaller will
limit the siBe of your garden to
one or two plants.
Gro$in! M/diu8s
-row mediums e7ist to provide a stable base for your plant to grow its roots
through and to hold up the weight of the plant. Aver the years many substances
have been found to fill this role and they have different properties. Aften a
grower will use one or more of these mediums depending on the methods he
has chosen for growing and the desired properties of the medium in the
container being used.
'emember the media will not provide any nutrition, it is ust a support for the
roots. )ll nutrition comes from the hydroponic solution. )lso keep in mind
rockwool and other media may have to be soaked in pH adusted water prior to
use, especially when seeds are involved.
-row mediums are designed to be the perfect substance for your plants will
take root in. -rowing mediums such as rockwool or clay pebbles are the most
popular and commonly used today. -row mediums are artificial grow substances
designed to contain all the plants mineral needs and allow air to reach the roots
289
to promote e7ceptional growth. 'ockwool is the most widely used.
The main difference between hydroponics and soil growing is that the
hydroponic soil or QmediumQ is made to hold moisture, but drain well, so that
there are no over*watering problems associated with continuous watering.
2oc9$oo)7 'ockwool is literally spun rockJ the rock is spun into a material that
looks similar to the spun glass used for insulation. .ost growers are using
rockwool in some form. If allowed free drainage rockwool will retain ust the
right amount of moisture.
'ockwool comes in multiple siBes of cube. There are smaller cubes or plugs that
are typically used for seedlings or clones and larger blocks that are used in
hydroponic systems=such as &bb and :low trays>. 0ome of the large blocks have
holes in them to make it easy to insert the small plugs or cubes you used to
clone the plant directly into the larger block. 'ockwool must be completely
submerged in water for 3hrs prior to use in order to remove any air bubbles in
the medium.
290
'ockwool cubes can be reused several times, and are pre*made for use with
hydroponic systems. %ust place the plant#s cube on top of a larger rockwool
cube and enoy your e7tra leisure time. 0ome find it best to save money by not
buying rockwool and spending time planting in soil or hydroponic mediums such
as vermiculiteFlava mi7. !erlite is nice, since it is so light. !erlite can be used
instead of or in addition to lava, which must be rinsed and is much heavier.
'ockwool cubes vary in siBes from 6N to 9N cubes. They are also e7cellent for
cloning. ) lot of growers also use rockwool cubes for seed germination and
rooting cuttings, as this is one of the easiest methods.
'ockwool has many advantages. :or starters it isn#t very e7pensive, and it is
reusable. It is also impossible to over water and there is no transplanting
involved. 'ockwool holds 6? times more water than soil, yet is impossible to
over*water. This is because it always retains a high percentage of air. There is
no transplanting * ust place a starter cube into a rockwool grow cube, and
when the plant gets very large, place that cube on a rockwool slab. 0ince
rockwool is easily reused over and over, the cost is divided by 4 or / crops, and
ends up costing no more than vermiculite and lava, which is much more difficult
to reclaim, steriliBe and reuse=repot> when compared to rockwool. 2ermiculite is
also very dangerous when dry, and ends up getting in the carpet and into the
air when you touch it=even wet>, since it dries on the fingers and becomes
airborne. :or this reason, I do not recommend vermiculite when growing
indoors.
291
'ockwool doesn#t have very many disadvantages.
The thing is, it has a base alkaline pH, so you
must use something in the nutrient solution to
make it acidic=5.5> so that it brings the rockwool
down from 5.5, to 9.5=vinegar works ust fine>.
)nd it is irritating to the skin when dry, but is not
a problem when wet. To pre*treat rockwool for
planting, soak it in a solution of fish emulsion,
trace mineral solution and phosphoresic acid=pH
8own> for a minimum of 1/ hours, then rinse.
This will decrease the need for pH concerns later
on, as it buffers the rockwool pH to be neutral.
This will properly stabiliBe the pH level of your
rockwool, creating the ideal grow medium that#ll assist in producing high @uality
big buds. (ou must do this. )fter check the pH of the medium every time you
water to be sure no pH issues are occurring.
+,droton7 Hydroton clay pellets are also very effective and @uite popular. He
sure to occasionally move them around so that the hydroton stays wet all the
way through. Hydroton consists of lava rock or clay pellets that are available in
different siBes and usually have a red coating on the outside. This inert medium
is effective in continuous drip and ebb and flow systems. It is also an e7cellent
choice anywhere you need drainage and some have used it for the bottom
couple of inches of a hempy bucket to facilitate free drainage.
292
(oi)7 .other &arth#s plant food. ).E.). plain ol# dirt. 0oil is actually a composite
of a number of substances and varies from on location to another. It is typically
composed of rock, sand, clay, and organics. Arganics are decomposed plant and
animal matter and provide the nutrient content that is contained in soil, clay
binds soil together and retains moisture, rocks and sand provide drainage to
allow for root o7ygenation. )dditionally soil is usually teaming with
microorganisms that are feeding on and breaking down the organics contained
within it.
$hen growing a potted plant indoors you will probably want to mi7 perlite with
your soil to enhance moisture retention. It is also highly recommended that
potting soil be used in a pot rather than soil that you have dug up from the
ground. ) potting mi7 can be more carefully designed for optimal plant health
and the soil outside will contain many unwanted forms of insect life that can,
and will, infect and kill your plants.
)nother common concern with soil is that potting soils often already have
fertiliBers in them=in addition to the nutrients contained in the organics>. In
general, try to avoid potting soils with time release nutrients. If you do purchase
a bag, be aware that the plant will not need any nutrients for a period of time.
(ou#ll need to ust water with clean water to avoid burning the roots.
5/r)it/7 !erlite is a porous white substance that is very absorbent and e7cellent
at retaining and wicking moisture. !erlite is often used for cloning and mi7ing
with other grow mediums, but it can also be used on its own. -rowers who use
perlite as a sole grow medium will often purchase large coarse chunks rather
than the smaller porous perlite that is more readily available in most areas. It is
not recommended to use perlite in a circulating system because the fine dust
that comes off the perlite will clog pumps over time. The same fine dust brings
a recommendation that when handling perlite you utiliBe a respirator device so
that the dust does not harm your lungs. !erlite is a uni@ue volcanic mineral
which e7pands from four to twenty times its original volume when it is @uickly
heated to a temperature of appro7imately 69??*65??Y:=356.6*<19.9Y+>. This
e7pansion is due to the presence of two to si7 percent combined water in the
crude perlite rock which causes the perlite to pop in a manner similar to that of
popcorn.
293
$hen e7panded, each granular, snow*white particle of perlite is sterile with a
neutral pH and contains many tiny, closed cells or bubbles.
The surface of each particle is covered with tiny cavities which provide an
e7tremely large surface area. These surfaces hold moisture and nutrients and
make them available to plant roots. In addition, because of the physical shape
of each particle, air passages are formed which provide optimum aeration and
drainage. Hecause perlite is sterile, it is free of disease, seeds, and insects.
!erlite has been used for many years throughout the world for soil conditioning
and as a component of growing mi7es with materials such as peat moss or bark.
&7tensive studies have shown that the uni@ue capillary action of perlite makes it
a superior growing media for a hydroponic growth medium.
!erlite is a completely inert substance so will not interfere with your feeding
schedules. That being said, there are some manufacturers that put nutrients in
their brand of perlite even though it is not indicated on the product label. This
material can be used but should be flushed thoroughly with water to wash out
the nutrients. !erlite should be washed anyway to remove the fine dust that
builds up in it.
294
</r8icu)it/7 2ermiculite is a crushed volcanic rock medium that provides
e7cellent drainage when mi7ed with other grow mediums. 2ermiculite is inert
but is not particularly suitable for use as a grow medium by itself. It consists of
any of various micaceous minerals that are hydrous silicates resulting usually
from e7pansion of the granules of mica at high temperatures to give a
lightweight highly water*absorbent material that both is sterile and light in
weight=5 to 3 lbs>.
The pH of vermiculite will vary depending on where it is mined. .ost G.0.
sources are neutral to slightly alkaline, whereas vermiculite from )frica can be
@uite alkaline=pH U <>. 2ermiculite is used e7tensively in the greenhouse
industry as a component of mi7es or in propagation. It is usually sold in four
siBe gradesO V6 is the coarsest and V/ the smallest. The finer grades are used
e7tensively for seed germination or to topdress seed flats. &7panded vermiculite
should not be pressed or compacted, especially when wet, as this will destroy
the desirable physical properties.
Coconut Bib/r7 .any modern growers are beginning to use this newer grow
medium. +oconut fiber offers some of the buffering capacity of soil, drains well,
retains enough moisture to be useful, and has little nutrient content.
295
+,dro-onic Nutri/nts
!roper hydroponic nutrient use is arguably the most important aspect of your
entire setup. (our nutrient choice and mi7 will determine whether your plant will
shrivel up and die in a couple hours, grow, grow big, or grow very very big.
Nutri/nt 2atio
)s you recall, all plant food is measured in the D*!*E format.
D for Ditrogen
! for !hosphorus
E for !otassium
) 65*65*65 solution contains 65P Ditrogen, 65P !hosphorus, 65P !otassium.
1?*6?*5 solution contains 1?P Ditrogen, 6?P !hosphorus, 5P !otassium. The
percentage of the solution not used by D*!*E is trace elements and inert
material. .ake sure when choosing your hydroponic*designed fertiliBer that it
supplies ade@uate amounts of nitrogen during early growth stages. Typical
hydroponic fertiliBers=nutrient solutions> have a nutrient ratio of <*5*6? or 63*9*
69. :ertiliBers that will be used for later growth should have lower rations of D.
In order to get vigorous growth from your plants, you will need to find a
nutrient solution that also supplies secondary and micro*nutrients. This will be
listed on the label of the package.
296
Not/7 I6 ,our nutri/nt so)ution is d/6ici/nt in 8a!n/siu8>0/r, co88on? t"/n ,ou
can us/ E-so8 sa)ts as d/scrib/d in t"/ soi) nutri/nt s/ction. You can a)so
-urc"as/ an ironA=incA8an!an/s/ co8bination so)ution at ,our )oca) !ro$ s"o-.
8epending on what stage of growth your crop is in, you can adust different
nutrient levels needed at different times to optimiBe growth for producing the
highest @uality and biggest siBe buds that grow as fast as biologically possible.
(ou must change plant foods often to avoid deficiencies in the plants. I
recommend using 1 different plant foods for each phase of growth, or / foods
total, to lessen chances of any type of deficiency. +hange the solution more
often if you notice the pH is going down @uickly=too acidic>. .ostly due to
cationic e7change, solution will tend to get too acidic over time, and this will
cause nutrients to become unavailable to the plants.
Higher amounts of D are needed when the temperature will be below
3?Y:=19.9Y+> in the grow room during vegetative growth. 1?*1?*1?, or 14*6<*
65, or 61*9*9, or something similar, with trace elements should do it.
If temperatures are higher than 3?Y:=19.9Y+> in the grow room, you need not
worry about more D in the formula during vegetative growth.
8uring flowering the plant needs lots of !hosphorus, regardless of temperature.
65*4?*65, or 5*1?*6?, or 1*/*4, or something similar, with trace elements should
do it.
'A2NING7 Do not o0/r 6//d ,our -)ants1111 Too 8uc" nutri/nts $i)) 9i))
,our -)ants. I6 ,ou und/r 6//dC t"/ -)ants $i)) not di/C but inst/ad ta9/
)on!/r to !ro$. Bo))o$ t"/ instructions on ,our nutri/nt so)utionKs
)ab/). I6 ,ouKr/ not sur/ a)$a,s !o $it" t"/ E)/ss is 8or/F ru)/.
297
B/st 2atios 6or +,dro-onics 3A-art
These mi7es work well and are the accepted standard mi7 recommended for
newer growers. It is simple to rememberO 4*1*6...1*1*1...6*1*4.
T"/ 1A%A3 2/ci-/7
2egetative stageO Gse 4*1*6 =4 parts grow, 1 parts micro, 6 part bloom>.
&arly floweringO first 1*4 weeks or until stretching stopsO Gse 1*1*1 =1
parts each>.
;ate floweringO Gse 6*1*4 =6 part grow, 1 parts micro, 4 parts bloom>.
bTeaspoons per G0 gallon =5ml U 6 part>
bb8ilute final mi7ture =or adust part siBe> to suit your plants nutrient strength
=&+FT80> re@uirements. If your nutrient solution is lacking .g, add 6F3 to 6F/
teaspoon epsom salts per gallon of final mi7. 8issolve the salts in some warm
water before adding to your nutrient reservoir.
298
TD(C 55MC and EC
If you have any desire to mi7 your own fertiliBers, it is important that you have a
basic understanding of these three critical terms.
E)/ctric Conducti0it,>EC? U Conducti0it, Bactor>CB?
&lectricity is conducted due to the presence of ions=electrically charged
particles> in any given solution. In hydroponic mariuana growing, the ions get
there by introduction of salts via your fertiliBers.
&+=electrical conductivity> is a representation of how much potential a solution
has to conduct electricity. 0o by testing the ability of a solution to conduct
electricity, we can indirectly determine the amount of salts present....thereby
knowing if we have the right concentration of fertiliBers.
&.+. is a measurement of salinity by measuring its conductivity. (ou want an
&.+. under 1.?. )nything around /.? signifies an e7treme e7cess of salt which
calls for immediate leeching. There are multiple devices for measuring. -etting
an accurate device is critical. .any newer growers feel they can use their own
Meye measurementN as a more accurate means of testing these levels, when
they ust end up destroying their plants.
+:=+onductivity :actor> basically represents the same information but e7pressed
differently. 6 msFcm is e@ual to a +: of 6?. +onductivity :actor isn#t used nearly
as much as &+.
Tota) Disso)0/d (o)ids>TD(? U 5arts 5/r Mi))ion>55M?
Total 8issolved 0olids=T80> is the best measurement of the nutrient
concentration of a hydroponic solution. To estimate T80, one can use a meter
that measures the &lectric +onductivity =&+> of a solution, and convert the
number to T80 in parts per million=ppm>. .any meters will do this conversion.
Total dissolved solids=T80> is typically e7pressed in parts per million =ppm>. It is
a measurement of mass and determined by weighing, called a gravimetric
299
analysis. ) solution of nutrients dissolved in water at a strength of 5?? ppm
means that there are 5?? milligrams if dissolved solids present for every liter of
water. To accurately calculate total dissolved solids =T80>, one would evaporate
a measured filtered sample to dryness, and weigh the residue. This type of
measurement re@uires accurate li@uid measurement, glassware, a drying oven,
and a milligram balance. :or e7ample, 5? m; of the 5??ppm solution would
leave 45 mg of salt at the bottom of a crucible after drying.
&lectrical +onductivity=&+> is e7pressed in siemens per centimeter=sFcm> or
milliseimens per centimeter=msFcm>. It can be determined with an ine7pensive
hand held meter. Dutrient ions have an electrical charge, a whole number,
usually a positive or negative 6, 1, or 4. &+ is a measurement of all those
charges in the solution that conduct electricity. The greater the @uantity of
nutrient ions in a solution, the more electricity that will be conducted by that
solution. ) material has a conductance of one siemens if one ampere of electric
current can pass through it per volt of electric potential. It is the reciprocal of
the ohm, the standard unit of electrical resistance. ) siemens is also called a
mho=ohm backwards>.
&+ measurements often are converted to T80 units =ppm> by the meter.
The meter cannot directly measure T80 as described above, and instead uses a
linear conversion factor to calculate it. &veryone#s nutrient mi7 is different, so no
factor will be e7act. The meter uses an appro7imate conversion factor, because
the e7act composition of the mi7 is not known. +onversion factors range from .
5? to .51, depending on the meter manufacturer, which actually do a good ob
of appro7imating a T80 calculation from the meters measurement of &+.
Not/7 A)) --8 -/ns actua)), 8/asur/ t"/ 0a)u/ bas/d on EC and t"/n con0/rt t"/
EC 0a)u/ to dis-)a, t"/ --8 0a)u/C "a0in! di66/r/nt con0/rsion 6actors b/t$//n
di66/rin! 8anu6actur/rs is $", $/ "a0/ t"is -rob)/8 co88unicatin! nutri/nt
8/asur/8/nts b/t$//n on/ anot"/r.
300
&+ is measured in millisiemens per centimeter=msFcm> or microsiemens per
centimeter=usFcm>.
Ane millisiemen U 6??? microsiemens.
&+ and +: =+onductivity :actor> are easily converted between each other.
6 msFcm U 6? +:
The problem is that different ppm pen manufacturers use different conversion
factors to calculate the ppm they display. )ll ppm=T80> pens actually measure in
&+ or +: and run a conversion program to display the reading in ppm#s.
There are three conversion factors which various manufacturers use for
displaying ppm#s...
G0) 6 msFcm =&+ 6.? or +: 6?> U 5?? ppm
&uropean 6 msFcm =&+ 6.? or +: 6?> U 9/? ppm
)ustralian 6 msFcm =&+ 6.? or +: 6?> U 5?? ppm
:or e7ampleO
Hanna, .ilwaukee 6 msFcm =&+ 6.? or +: 6?> U 5?? ppm
&utech 6 msFcm =&+ 6.? or +: 6?> U 9/? ppm
Truncheon 6 msFcm =&+ 6.? or +: 6?> U 5?? ppm
TD( M/t/rs
Total 8issolved 0alts=T80> meters are essentially little volt meters that look at
the voltage produced by a sensor, usually a couple of metal pins. The nutrient
solution acts like a battery electrolyte and the pins function as do plates
=electrodes> in a battery. The idea is that a nutrient solution is more electrically
conductive when there are more nutrient salts in solution, so more salts means
more voltage. ) little math is done in the machine to convert the voltage to
ppm=parts per million of dissolved solids>. There is a calibration adustment so
this math can be touched up to compensate for various factors. (ou will need a
301
test solution to verify your meter once a week. Gsually you will find a single
measurement at about 65??*65??ppm is enough to verify it#s reading what it#s
supposed to.
(ou need one that will read at least ?*1???ppm=or ?*6<<<ppm>. (ou could use a
?*<<<ppm meter in a pinch if you added an e@ual volume of plain water to a
sample from your tank * you#d ust double the meter reading. It#s best to simply
get the correct meter. There are other scales of measurement of nutrient
concentration. In &urope, the Q&+Q=electrical conductivity> meters are preferred.
They measure in units of millisiemens or m0 instead of parts per million=ppm>.
The numbers are convertible one scale to the other, but most references and
discussion here cite the ppm scale. $aterproof meters are both more e7pensive
and worth it.
302
Ca)cu)atin! t"/ Con0/rsion Bactor
If your meter allows you to switch between &+ and T80 units, your conversion
factor can be easily determined by dividing one by the other.
!lace the probe in the solution and read T80 in ppm. +hange to &+ on the
meter and read &+ in msFcm.
+onversion :actor U !!. F &+.
Not/7 8s 8ust b/ con0/rt/d to us7 On/ 8i))isi/8/n W 1*** 8icrosi/8/ns >1.*
8s:c8 W 1***.* us:c8
Accordin! to t"/ c"art b/)o$7
6.? msFcm U 5?? ppm=G0) Hanna>
6??? usFcm U 5?? ppm
+onversion factor U ppm F =msFcm b 6???>
.5? U 5??ppm F =6???usFcm>
(our meter#s conversion factor and should be a number between ?.5? and ?.51.
To improve accuracy, take &+ and !!. readings from your nutrient reservoir
daily for about ten days. )verage the conversion factors. The more data points
that you use, the closer you will be to finding your true conversion factor.
A Not/ to Or!anic Gro$/rs7 )n &+ meter has fewer applications for a soil
grower because many organic nutrients are not electrically charged or are inert.
Things like :ish &mulsion, blood meal, rock phosphate or green sand cannot be
measured with a meter reliably when they are applied or in runoff. .eters can
only measure electrically charged salts in solution.
303
EC +anna Eut/c" Trunc"/on CB
msFc
m
?.5 ppm ?.9/ ppm ?.5? ppm ?
?.6 5? ppm 9/ ppm 5? ppm 6
?.1 6?? ppm 613 ppm 6/? ppm 1
?.4 65? ppm 6<1 ppm 16? ppm 4
?./ 1?? ppm 159 ppm 13? ppm /
?.5 15? ppm 41? ppm 45? ppm 5
?.9 4?? ppm 43/ ppm /1? ppm 9
?.5 45? ppm //3 ppm /<? ppm 5
?.3 /?? ppm 561 ppm 59? ppm 3
?.< /5? ppm 559 ppm 94? ppm <
6.? 5?? ppm 9/? ppm 5?? ppm 6?
6.6 55? ppm 5?/ ppm 55? ppm 66
6.1 9?? ppm 593 ppm 3/? ppm 61
6.4 95? ppm 341 ppm <6? ppm 64
6./ 5?? ppm 3<9 ppm <3? ppm 6/
6.5 55? ppm <9? ppm 6?5? ppm 65
6.9 3?? ppm
6?1/
ppm
661? ppm 69
6.5 35? ppm
6?33
ppm
66<? ppm 65
6.3 <?? ppm
6651
ppm
619? ppm 63
6.< <5? ppm
6169
ppm
644? ppm 6<
1.?
6???
ppm
613?
ppm
6/?? ppm 1?
1.6
6?5?
ppm
644/
ppm
6/5? ppm 16
1.1
66??
ppm
6/?3
ppm
65/? ppm 11
1.4
665?
ppm
6/51
ppm
696? ppm 14
1./
61??
ppm
6549
ppm
693? ppm 1/
304
1.5
615?
ppm
69??
ppm
655? ppm 15
1.9
64??
ppm
699/
ppm
631? ppm 19
1.5
645?
ppm
6513
ppm
63<? ppm 15
1.3
6/??
ppm
65<1
ppm
6<9? ppm 13
1.<
6/5?
ppm
6359
ppm
1?4? ppm 1<
4.?
65??
ppm
6<1?
ppm
16?? ppm 4?
4.6
655?
ppm
6<3/
ppm
165? ppm 46
4.1
69??
ppm
1?/3
ppm
11/? ppm 41
Co8bination M/t/rs
The combination type meters=like the one pictured above> are real handy for the
convenience of being able to take both readings simultaneously, or with a single
touch of a button to switch between modes. The problem with combination
meters is pH sensors like to be stored in a fertiliBer solution, but T80 probes like
to be stored in distilled water. 0toring the pH probe in plain or distilled water will
damage the ph membrane, so the combination probe needs to be stored in a
fertiliBer solution so as not to damage the pH portion, so the T80 probe ends up
being QdirtyQ from salt buildup. !urchasing Qsingle functionQ pH or T80 meter for
this purpose is advised.
305
A Guid/)in/ 6or N5J (tr/n!t"s
There are many parameters for acceptable !!.s floating out there today. Here
is a decent guideline for the D*!*E standards. :eel free to e7periment, but make
only gradual changes. These guidelines act as a foundation. )ppro7imate
tolerance range of !!.s per nutrientJ most micro*nutrients are tolerated by
plants within the same ranges=but the plant ust doesn#t need nearly that
much">
D * 1??*/??
! * 1??*9??
E * 1??*9??
A--ro4i8at/ To)/ranc/ 2an!/ o6 TOTA 55Ms in soi):8/diu87
=Abviously the plant can tolerate more as it gets larger and has more root area
to uptake nutrients and leaf area to transpire water.>
0eedlingO 5??*9??ppm
2egetativeO 3??*6???ppm
:loweringO 6???*65??ppm
:lushingO 5??ppm
A--ro4i8at/ To)/ranc/ 2an!/ +,dro-onic Nutri/nts TD(:EC7
The ideal T80 for a hydroponic solution is 5??*6???ppm, &+ .55*6.5. )
reduction in solution T80F&+ reduces osmotic pressure and allows the roots to
draw the nutrients QeasierQ. (oung, established seedlings or rooted cuttings are
started at 5??*9??ppm. The T80 is increased to 3??*<??ppm during peak
vegetative growth. 8uring the transition from early to heavy flowering, T80 is
further raised to 6???*66??ppm. It is then reduced to /??*5??ppm during the
final 1 weeks of flushing. The plants demonstrate their preference for a lower
T80F&+ when running a lower pH by clearly sustaining higher growth rates.
306
55Ms 6or Eac" Gro$t" 5"as/
(ou may desire more Ditrogen during vegetative growth stages for e7ample.
The key is DAT to obsess over the e7act numbers. There are many other factors
involved in the actual G!T)E& of these nutrients by roots to claim specificity.
These are ust general parameters that you can tweak under your own
conditions. )nd again, the plant can tolerate more as it gets larger and has
more root area to uptake nutrients and leaf area to transpire water. 0tart light,
gradually increase with each feeding as your plant can handle it.
Eeep in mind, the following estimates are given for soil mediums which can
tolerate higher levels because the soil components will bond with many
elemental ionsJ a hydro system needs to be more precise. )lso remember that
these parameters are based on the assumption of using distilled water. Tap
water will add another 1??*/?? !!.s, so you would have to adust
accordingly...especially with +l, +a, Da, and in rare case, 0.
(//d)in!7
=1*4 weeks...look for /*5 sets of alternating nodes
before moving to veg.>
D * 65?
! * 6??
E * 65?
+a * 55
.g * 55
0 * 15*5?
:e * 65
+l * 65
.n * 5
+u * <
In * 4
TotalO 9??ppm
307
</!/tati0/:-r/AB)o$/r7
=Gsually 1*/ weeks.>
DO 4??
! 6??
E 1??
+a 6??
.g 6??
0 5?*55
:e 15
+l 15
.n 6?
+u 65
In 5
TotalO c6???pm
B)o$/rin!7
=0train dependentJ usually 9*3 weeks.>
D * 4??*/??
! * /??
E * 1??
+a * 6??*65?
.g * 6??*65?
0 * 6??*65?
:e * 15+
+l * 15+
.n * 6?
+u * 65
In * 5
TotalO c64??*65??ppm
308
B)us":+ar0/st7
=1 weeks>
D * ?
! * 55
E * 55
+a * 5?
.g * 5?
0 * 5?
:e * 15
+l * 15
.n * 6?
+u * 65
In * 5
TotalO c/??ppm
It cannot be stressed enough that these are estimates. I wanted to offer a solid
foundation for newer growers to measure from. These are @uite conservative
ones due to the fact that chemical fertiliBers allow less room for error. )lso,
different strains and conditions will result in different ratios. &7periment often
and use caution when making adustments"
+o$ To T/)) I6 Your 55M:EC is Too +i!" or Too o$
It#s simple to find out if you are using too much food or not enough by watching
the nutrient concentration levels in your tanks day to day. 8on#t be concerned
with the e7act reading, rather watch how it rises and falls from each day to the
ne7t. The differences between when you put the solution into the tank and the
readings you get several hours later or the ne7t day are what tell you if your
plant is eating, drinking or happy.
0tart with 6.?? &+=or a 0):& nutrient strength>. De7t day, if it reads 6./, it
means your plants have been using water and your nutrient solution is
becoming more concentrated. This means the concentration of nutrients is too
309
high, so you dilute.
If the meter reads lower than the previous day, ?.5 say, it tells you that the
plants are eating nutrients faster than they are drinking water, so you should
increase your nutrient strength. If it remains the same, your feeding schedule is
on target for now. The nutrientFwater intake fluctuates with the growth of the
plant, so you must continually monitor it day to day.
(our plants will tell you the optimum nutrient levels. $hen they are receiving
optimum food and water, the readings remain constant. The more you do it, the
easier it gets. The reason no one can tell you what !!.F&+ levels to use is
because every garden is different and every plant has different re@uirements
due to their particular environment. That#s why you have a ball park starting
figure, but after that your plants will tell you almost e7actly what they re@uire.
'"/n to Add Mor/ Nutri/nts@
Dew growers tend to rely on a ppm meter, but a veteran grower has learned
how to read the plant. It actually takes a few grows to learn how to be able to
read the plant. The plant can tell you if it is getting too much or too little
nutrients. .ost of the nutrient mi7es are e7plained e7tremely well on the packs.
If you follow the instructions properly and remember that cannabis grows best
within 4?P K 5?P strength nutrients then you will be fine. +ool beans.
The ppm depends on what stage your plants are in, it should D&2&' e7ceed
69??.
+/r/ is "o$ on/ !ro$/r do/s it7
[/ daysO ppm U 1??
[6? daysO ppm U 4??
[65 daysO ppm U /??
[11 daysO ppm U /5?
[1/ daysO ppm U 5??
[19 daysO ppm U 95?
[4? daysO ppm U 3??
[43 daysO ppm U 3??
310
[/? daysO ppm U 61??
[51 daysO ppm U 64??
[5< daysO ppm U 6/??
[99 daysO ppm U 655?
[5? daysO ppm U 655? =the ppm during the plant#s final days are cranked high>
Bi!urin! Out T"/ 55M o6 B/rti)i=/r
To figure out the ppm of your fertiliBer =or fertiliBer mi7>, you need to be able to
measure grams and liters. ;ook at the 4 numbers on the side of a fertiliBer bag.
These are the percent contents of the nutrients. :or every one gram of said
fertiliBer in one liter of water, it contributes 6? ppm of the given nutrient per
percentage point.
) 1?*1?*1? gives 1?? ppm =6? ppm \ 1?> of each nutrient for each gram in a
liter of water.
T"/ 6or8u)a is t"is7
grams of fertiliBer per liter U )FH
)Uyour desired ppm
HU6? ppm \ the P of nutrient in mi7 or your ppm U + \ H
HU6? ppm \ the P of nutrient in mi7
+U grams of fertiliBer per liter
0o to make a 1?? ppm*6?? ppm*1?? ppm D!E mi7 using a 64*?*// =potassium
nitrate>, a 61*91*? =monoamonium phosphate>, and a 44*?*? =ammonium
nitrate> you would work backwards from your sole ! and E sources =it makes it
easiest in this case>, and make up the D at the end. I have rounded numbers to
the nearest ?.6 g for the following. (ou would use ?.5 g of potassium nitrate
=1?? ppmF=6? ppm \ // E>> and ?.1 g of monoammonium phosphate =6??
ppmF=6? ppm \ 91 !>> in one liter.
This would give you 3< ppm D =6? ppm \ 64 D \ ?.5 g + 6? ppm \ 61 D \ ?.1
g>, 61/ ppm ! =6? ppm \ 91 ! \ ?.1>, and 11? ppm E =6? ppm \ // E \ ?.5 g>.
666 ppm are needed to raise the D to the 1?? ppm level, so we can use ?.4 g
311
of the ammonium nitrate =666 ppmF=6? ppm \ 44 D>> to bring us up to finish.
The actual mi7 would yield a 633 ppm D, 61/ ppm !, 11? ppm E mi7ture in one
liter of water. To get more precision, you need to mi7 larger batches or get a
better scale =you would need to make a 6? liter batch of the above with a scale
that is only accurate to the gram>. If you mi7 your own fertiliBer, you can adust
your D source to meet your pH needs, rather than being dependent on adding
acid or base, which is nice. This works for formulating hydro mi7es, as well as
for us dirt farmers
Nutri/nt (o)ution
The first step is deciding upon which nutrient solution to get. Dutrient solutions
come in lots of forms. .ake sure you get a hydroponic nutrient solution only.
0ome are made for soil and we do not recommend you use these in your
hydroponic garden. This is because soil*based nutrients contain many wrong
elements for hydroponic use, this will severely negatively effect your plant#s
growth.
.ost hydroponic nutrient solutions available on the market today are complete
nutrient solutions. They provide every element re@uired for optimal plant
growth. $hen planning your hydroponic setup financially make sure you 8A
DAT go cheap on the nutrients, as taking any short*cuts here will greatly
undermine your ideal growth goals.
Dr, or '/t Nutri/nts@
$et nutrients are very trendy and hip in the hydroponic world. There is nothing
wrong with a MwetN nutrient, they mi7 @uite well. Hut, wet nutrients generally
tend to be more e7pensive. This is because the bottle contains more water and
less actual nutrient content. This makes them more e7pensive to ship and
transport. $hen it comes time to mi7 them and feed your plant either dry or
wet works e@ually well. .any prefer li@uid.
312
Mi4in! Nutri/nt (o)ution
$hether using li@uid or dry hydroponic nutrients, you should only add to the
water after filling the container rather than adding nutrients and then filling.
)dding before filling can lead to severe nutrient imbalances.
Here#s a great tip for you to avoid your nutrients locking up=greatly lowering
absorption rates>O .i7 your solution in the sink. -et a watering can and clean it.
;et your water run directly into it and while water is flowing into the can then
pour in your nutrients. This will keep your nutrients from locking up. 'umor has
it that when you mi7 your nutrients inside a cup they will lock up. This is very
bad" Dow ust carry your watering can over to your reservoir and pour it in.
Nutri/nt 5ac9s
0ingle packs are not ideal. This is because having all the nutrients in a single
pack runs the risk of having the elements in the pack combine and precipitate.
$hen precipitation occurs this causes your solution to become unbalanced. This
will render your solution not only completely useless to your plants but most
likely to7ic and harmful as well.
:or best growing results the solution then is to obtain your complete nutrient
solution in a bottles labeled MtwinN or MtripleN packs. The chemicals are held in
different packs to entirely prevent precipitation. 4*part system triple packs allow
you to adust these nutrients to get optimum thriving growth from your plants.
+heck the specific instructions on the bottles for an e7planation how to mi7 the
nutrients into water.
Not/7 '"/n !ro$in! in an or!anic !ard/nC 8a9/ sur/ to bu, nutri/nts t"at ar/
",droor!anicsC 6or or!anic ",dro-onic !ro$in! on),.
313
E4a8-)/ Nutri/nt (o)utions
.any growers wonder what a sample @uality hydroponic nutrient solution would
look like when mi7ed together. Gsing popular products today I have included
some samples to give you an ideaO
+,dro-onic </!/tati0/ Gro$t" 5"as/ (o)utionC -/r !a))on7
*+hempak no4 1?*1?*1? balanced feed=GE> F !eters 1?*1?*1? =G0)>.
*&psom salts 6F1 teaspoon.
*Human Grine=A!TIAD); * may create odors if used indoors.> 6F/ cup.
*A7ygen !lus !lant :ood=A!TIAD);> 6 teaspoon.
This mi7ture ensures your plants are getting all maor and minor nutrients in
solution, and will also be treating your plants with o7ygen for good root growth,
and potassium nitrate for good burning @ualities.
)nother good vegetative growth phase mi7 is 6F/ tsp !eters 1?F1?F1? fertiliBer
per gallon of water, with trace elements and o7ygen added, or fish emulsion.
:ish emulsion is great in a greenhouse or outdoors, where smells are not an
issue * it is not recommended indoors due to its pungent odor. If you don#t mind
the odor, you will love the results"
+,dro-onic B)o$/rin! (o)utionC -/r !a))on7
6 tsp. high ! plant food, such as 65*4?*65, or 5*5?*65, etc.
T tsp. epsom salts.
6 tsp. A7ygen !lus !lant :ood =Aptional>.
6 tsp. Trace &lement food.
314
E4a8-)/ o6 a (tandard G/n/ra) +,dro-onics B)ora (/ri/s
B//din! (trat/!,
Here is another @uality hydroponic nutrient solution e7ample, as well as how
e7actly one would apply it. This should give you a general overview of how to
correctly mi7 and apply nutrients.
T"/ Bor8u)a7
-*.*H =-row*.icro*Hloom>
?*5*6? * :or 2egetative cycle =[63F9>
?*3*69 * :or :lowering cycle =61F61>
The numbers above indicate the number of milliliters=ml> of :lora -row, .icro or
Hloom formulas that you#ll use in one gallon=G.0. ;i@uid> of nutrients.
(ou will notice there isn#t any of the :lora -row formula included, this is
because it is not needed, the :lora Q.icroQ provides plenty of Ditrogen.
There are two ways to work with this formulaO
6. Top off the reservoir daily using a pH corrected water solution as re@uired to
maintain full reservoir level. )fter adding back an amount of water e@ual to the
amount of your reservoir capacity you should change the reservoir and put in
fresh solution.
1. Top off the reservoir daily using a pH corrected 6??P strength nutrient
solution as re@uired to maintain full reservoir level. +ontinue to use this nutrient
solution without dumping the tank unless the !!. rises above acceptable levels.
Hetween vegetative and flowering cycles you should dump your nutrients, then
flush=perhaps with a commercially available clearing solution> to remove salt
buildups, then change to the other feeding program. )lways shake your nutrient
bottles before using them"
:or young plants=freshly transplanted into the hydroponic setup>, give them
315
5?P strength nutrient mi7 to prevent overfeeding them while their young.
-radually bring up the mi7 to full strength as they grow over the ne7t few
weeks or so.
The lucas formula is normally intended for use with 'A or near ? !!. water.
Not/7 T"/ ucas 6or8u)a /)i8inat/s t"/ n//d 6or E-so8 sa)ts to corr/ct
>Ma!n/siu8? M! d/6ici/nci/s in 8ost nor8a) 6//din! -ro!ra8s r/co88/nd/d b,
8anu6actur/rs. Cannabis $i)) n//d a )ot o6 Ma!n/siu8 to t"ri0/ and 6)ouris".
)s you can see, The :lora .icro is providing the Ditrogen and the .agnesium in
the proper balance, thus there is no need for the -row formula and little or no
room under the ma7imum acceptable ppm limit of 69?? c ?.5 conversion.
+,dro-onic (,st/8 'at/r
316
.any newer growers have concerns that the water is not flowing rapidly or
strongly from the ends of the tubes into the rockwool cubes. ) strong flow is
not necessary at all. ) slight trickle=bubbling> is all that is needed to keep the
rockwool cube moist and the baby roots fed until they reach into the deep
water. (ou do need to check for crimps and folds in the water tubes, especially
when you first set up your system.
'at/r Qua)it,
The water must be clean. Hydroponic plants must be grown in a sterile medium.
In this conte7t clean means that you have to make sure that the water does not
contain microorganisms, harsh chemicals, algae and that the water doesn#t have
the wrong pH=which will create nutrient lockup>. The easiest way to make sure
your grow medium stays sterile is to change water on a regular basis and check
the pH each and every time you add nutrients.
It is important to check your water. +rusty faucets and shower heads mean your
water is Qhard,Q usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a T80 level of
more than around 1??ppm is QhardQ and should be looked into, especially if your
plants have a chronic problem. )sk your water company for an analysis listing,
which will usually list the pH, T80, and mineral levels=as well as the pollutants,
carcinogens, etc> for the tap water in your area. This is a common re@uest,
especially in this day and age, so it shouldn#t raise an eyebrow. 'egular water
filters will not reduce a high T80 level, but the costlier reverse*osmosis units,
distillers, and de*ioniBers will. ) digital T80 meter=or &+. U electrical
conductivity meter> is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels
of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it.
The best waters to use with your hydroponic garden are spring, distilled or
reverse osmosis filtered water. If you can get access to these many issues that
plague growers can be bypassed. However, most household water is also fine to
use. If you have city supplied water you can use it directly from your faucets
inside your home or apartment. Ar, if your house has a well and softener
system, you will want to take your water from a faucet that supplies water
straight from the wellJ i.e. water that has not been through the softener system.
317
0oftener systems add salts to the water that are harmful to plants. Dote that
well water can potentially cause mineral build up and blockages, so regular
cleaning is re@uired. The faucets in your yard generally supply un*softened
waterJ and there should also be one right ne7t to your softener system that also
supplies water that has not been through the system yet. If you have a 'everse
Asmosis 0ystem, you should use the 'A filtered water as it is close to the
@uality of spring and distilled water.
'A2NING7 It is critica) t"at ,ou 9//- a c)os/ $atc" on ,our -)ants to
b/ sur/ t"/, ar/ n/0/r a))o$/d to dr, too 8uc" $"/n !ro$in!
",dro-onica)),C or roots $i)) b/ da8a!/d.
If you will not be able to tend to the garden every day, be sure the pans are
filled enough to last until ne7t time you return, or you can easily lose your
precious crop. It is necessary to change the solution every month if your
circulating it with a pump, but the reservoir system does away with this
problem. %ust rinse the medium once a month or so to prevent salts build up.
This can be accomplished by watering from the top of the pot or rockwool cube
with some pure water as mentioned above.
Gr//n A)!a/
)lgae is one of the problems you will encounter if you do not take the following
steps to prevent it. )lgae will grow anywhere there is nutrient solution and light.
.any newbie growers allow algae to grow in their tank, and this is a big
problem" )lgae appears in your tank following several mistakes but have no
worriesJ as it can be remedied pretty easily.
5r/0/ntin! Gr//n A)!a/7 :irst off you must never allow a dead root or fallen
leaf to stay inside the tank and decay. )lso do not allow the lights to shine into
the water through the rocks. If the grow cup is full of rocks, the lights can not
penetrate through the cups. )nd most important, you have to start with clean,
pure water. (ou can not use rain water, or water from a stream, river or lake.
(ou should e7change the water after the first ten days, and then every 6? to 6/
days as you grow. )s the plants get over 61 inches tall, e7changing the water
318
every 5 days is more efficient. (our water should smell like clean green alfalfa
sprouts. If you detect an unpleasant odor, you have waited way too long to
drain and e7change the water. $hen you do replenish the water and nutrients,
you should look for and remove any dead roots that were accidentally torn from
the plant. (ou can use chlorinated city tap water=some growers even
recommend it for it#s purity>.
If you#re concerned about the chlorine being harmful, no need to worry because
the chlorine dissipates fast and is never a problem. (ou can use 'H filtered
water, or store bought distilled or spring water. If you use well water or detect
algae growing in your tank, you can add 6F9 teaspoon of Hydrogen !ero7ide per
gallon of water to your tank as a cure or preventative. He sure to never ever use
more than a level teaspoon per tank of 9 gallons of water"
)lso do not use water that sat out uncovered or was stored for an e7tended
period of time.
Gr//n A)!a/ ()i8/ on 2oc9$oo)7 )lgae needs light and nutrients to live, it
will spread to your reservoir and will block feed lines. Hecause of rockwool#s
uni@ue vertical tube*like structure=which takes up nutrients via capillary action
and pulls air into the medium as the nutrients drain outward>, a heavy buildup
of algae can effectively block this crucial breathing action. To prevent this from
happening, use light*proof and water*proof material to cover your rockwool.
HlackFwhite panda film or thick black bin liners work great.
)lgae will tend to grow on the medium with higher humidifies in hydroponic
systems. It will @uickly turn a slab of rockwool a nasty dark green. To prevent
this, use the plastic cover the rockwool came in to cover rockwool slab tops,
with holes cut for the plants to stick out of it. It#s easy to cut a packaged slab of
rockwool into two pieces, then cut the end of the plastic off each piece. (ou
now have two pieces of slab, each covered with plastic e7cept on the very ends.
Dow cut 1 or 4 /Q s@uare holes in the top to place cubes on it, and place each
piece in a clean litter pan. Dow your ready to treat the rockwool as described
above in anticipation of planting. If growing in pots, a layer of gravel at the top
of a pot may help reduce algae growth, since it will dry very @uickly. )lgae is
319
merely messy and unsightlyJ it will not actually cause any complications with the
plants.
Mi4in! Nutri/nts 5ro-/r),
0o many growers get upset and post on forumsJ Q8udes when I throw in a
packet of nutrients into my tank, they ust settle to the bottom and don#t
dissolve""Q, that is the wrong way to introduce the nutrients and feed your
plants. These nutrients are natural elements, so they do not perfectly dissolve in
water. :or e7ample, seashells are not ever going to completely dissolve in water,
no matter how much they are pulveriBed, but are an e7cellent source of calcium.
(ou should add the packets to a @uart ar half full of warm water and stir them
rapidly, mi7ing them as well as possible in the water. Then pour them through a
tea strainer or some kind of mesh screen or filter, to filter out the small particles
that did not dissolve. Then add the nutrient water mi7 to the tank.
He sure to remember when you first start and set up your system, you should
start with 6F/ of a packet of grow nutrients if you are starting with seeds,
sprouts or baby seedlings. If you started with clones or baby plants, then start
with half a packet of grow nutrients. (our plants should be about 4 inches tall
before you use the nutrients full strength. Then stand back and watch for a
growth e7plosion"
*&asy to use
*&asy to clean
*2ery popular
*-reat for anyone who wants to produce a lot of plants in a short period of time
(o)ution (tr/n!t"
.i7ing a hydroponic nutrient solution is as easy as following a recipe in the
kitchen, but the first couple times you do it you are going to have to be 2&'(
careful to make sure you have go the right proportions. He careful of using full,
and even medium strength nutrient solutions, as they can burn your plants" 'ich
bud content can be produced with only a /?P strength solution, be sure to
check your package for the recommended strength. Ane of the most common
320
problems reported with hydroponics is plant burns. He sure to consult the
information printed on the packs. Aver feeding is a very common, not to worry
though as time goes on you will get to know your strain and what it likes and
eventually be a master of controlling your nutrient amounts.
-enerally speaking though, you will use a half strength solution for your young
plants for the first two weeks, after that it is going to be full strength. )lways
read the directions before you mess with them"""" If you mi7 your solution too
strong it is going to kill them, if you mi7 it too weak there isn#t going to be
enough nutrients to grow big potent buds"
Nutri/nt Ti-s
.ariuana plants tend to be very adaptable, but a general rule of
thumb is to use more nitrogen L less phosphorous during the vegetative
period,and the e7act opposite during the flowering period.
:or the vegetative growth period try a DO!OE ratio of about 6?O5O3=which of
course is the same ratio as 1?O6/O69>, and for flowering plants, /O3O3.
+heck the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating
and change it every 1 weeks. ) general guideline for T80 levels is as followsO
seedlings U 5?*65? ppmJ unrooted clones U 6??*45? ppmJ small plants U /??*
3?? ppmJ large plants U <??*63?? ppmJ last week of flowering U taper off to
plain water.
These numbers are ust a guideline, and many factors can change the actual
level the plants will need. +ertain nutrients are QinvisibleQ to T80 meters,
especially organics, so use T80 level only as an estimate of actual nutrient
levels. $hen in doubt about a new fertiliBer, follow the fertiliBer#s directions.
321
(,st/8 Maint/nanc/
.aintaining your hydroponic garden is what makes the difference between the
good and the great. Take your time with this section.
Maintainin! a 2/s/r0oir
!roper maintenance of your reservoir is essential to growing healthy vigorous
mariuana.
If you want your buds to grow out to their fullest potential than you will need to
maintain your reservoir right. The most influential factors are nutrient levels and
pH, as discussed in their appropriate sections.
322
Nutri/nts -+ /0/)
The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.<*9.5 =in
rockwool, 5.5*9.6> . -enerally speaking, the micro*nutrients =:e, In, .n, +u>
get locked out at a high pH =alkaline> above 5.?, while the maor nutrients =D,
!, E, .g> can be less available in acidic soil or water =below 5.?>. Tap water is
often too alkaline. 0oils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend
to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fi7. 0oil test kits vary in
accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. :or the
water, color*based pH test kits from a@uarium stores are ine7pensive, but
inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter=X/?*3?>, preferably a waterproof one.
(ou won#t regret it"
(our nutrient solution#s pH level is incredibly important. %ust like with soil, you
must adust your pH level, but this time the methods used to raise and lower
the pH is much different. The pH level will affect the solubility of your nutrients.
It#s harder to maintain a set level of your water, so shoot for being within the
above ranges for the ma7imal amount of time possible. )n easy way to measure
your pH is to use pH paper. (ou can pick this up cheap at any garden or grow
shop, but remember, it may not be as accurate as a well invested meter.
The good news is, it#s super easy to adust hydroponics li@uid nutrient pH levels.
This can be done by purchasing a pH G! and pH 8A$D solution, which is added
accordingly. These are typically very cheap and are all you need for balancing
your solution#s pH level.
'A2NING7 N/0/r /0/r 8i4 -+ u- and -+ do$n to!/t"/r dir/ct), in a
conc/ntrat/. T"is stu66 is 0/r, dan!/rous and n//ds to b/ "and)/d
$it" car/. Us/ on/ -i-/tt/ 6or /ac" job and co)or cod/ t"/ -i-/tt/ to
t"/ bott)/.
) pH level of 9.5 works best. The method is simple. Hefore mi7ing nutrients into
the water, adust the pH using sulfuric, nitric, or citric acid if it#s too high. If it#s
too lowO lime or baking soda. $hen you first set up your tank, you should do a
pH test on your water before adding the water to the tank. Then adust the
water with pH G! or pH 8A$D before it goes into the tank. That way, the pH
323
perfect nutrients will work best.
It can be dangerous to adust the pH in the tank, especially if you overly adust
it. It is also dangerous to adust it fre@uently. ) very slight adustment is AE, but
if you change it drastically in the tank by using a large amount of !H G! or !H
8A$D, you are taking a big risk of seriously harming your plants. If you do a
test on your tank#s water and it is e7tremely out of range from 5.3 to 9.3, then
it is best to drain it and replenish it with !H corrected water and nutrients. ;et
us repeat, you should add the nutrients to !H perfect water to start with. If you
insist on adusting it in the tank slightly, then use no more than 6F1 level
teaspoon of !H G! or !H 8A$D to the tank, and no more fre@uently than /
hours apart. !lants do not adust well to rapid changes in !H levels.
The results can be dreaded Dutritional ;ockout.
>No $orri/sC consu)t t"/ #A(t/- Co8-)/t/ Nutritiona) oc9out 2/8/d,
)ocat/d in t"/ Cannabis Car/ Manua).?
In order to measure your pH level easily you can use an electronic meter reader.
Not/7 B/ sur/ to c"/c9 ,our -+ )/0/) as 8uc" as ,ou -ossib), can. Un)i9/ $"/n
!ro$in! in soi)C $it" +,dro-onics s,st/8s t"/ -+ )/0/) can t/nd to 6)uctuat/ 0/r,
ra-id),. You $i)) !/t a 6//) 6or it.
In a normal hydroponic system keep the pH between 5.5 and 5.3
In an organic solution keep the pH between 9 K 9.5.
-+ Adjust8/nt Ti-s
The pH of the nutrient solution is a maor determinant of nutrient uptake by the
plant. If the pH wanders outside the optimum range of between pH 5.6 and pH
5.<, then nutritional deficiency andFor to7icity problems can occur. :or
hydroponic nutrient solutions used with inert media, keep the pH at 5.1 for
optimal elemental uptake. It is at this point that roots most readily assimilate
nutrients. This pH recommendation may seem low relative to the normally
suggested range, but are based upon information garnered from QHydroponic
324
DutrientsQ by .. &dward .uckle and !ractical Hydroponics and -reenhouses.
They both document the low pH resulting in increased nutrient uptake and
discernible health and yield improvements at a ph of 5.1 over higher levels.
The widely accepted soil based pH chart growers base their hydroponic pH
ranges on is fre@uently misapplied to water culture applications. His research
and that done by others, documented in !ractical Hydroponics and
-reenhouses, indicate that iron and phosphorous precipitate in nutrient
solutions at pH levels above 9. 0tay below a pH of 9 by all means to avoid this
problem and watch your plants benefit.
2aisin! ",dro-onic -+7 =to make it more alkaline>
In hydroponicsO use !H G!, potassium silicate, provides silicon at an effective
doseage.
In bioponicsFhydro*organicsO add small amounts of sodium bicarbonate or lime.
o$/rin! ",dro-onic -+7 =to make it more acidic>
In hydroponicsO use !H 8A$D, nitric acid during vegetativeJ phosphoric acid
during flowering.
325
5+ Nutri/nt A0ai)abi)it, C"art
T/8-/ratur/
The nutrient assimilation rate is further enhanced by the reduction in
solution T80F&+, which reduces osmotic pressure and allows the roots
to draw the nutrients QeasierQ. (oung, established seedlings or rooted cuttings
are started at 5??*9??ppm. The T80 is increased to 3??* <??ppm during peak
vegetative growth. 8uring the transition from early to heavy flowering, T80 is
further raised to 6???*66??ppm. It is then reduced to /??*5??ppm during the
final 1 weeks of flushing. The plants demonstrate their preference for a lower
T80F&+ when running a lower pH by clearly sustaining higher growth rates.
326
The optimum temperature for hydroponic solutions to be is 55Y:=14.3Y+>. )t
this point, most elements are assimilated highest and atmospheric o7ygen is
most readily dissolved. )lthough increases in temperature increase the rate of
photosynthesis, avoid e7ceeding the ma7imum listed of 53Y:=15.5Y+>. &levated
temperatures make some elements more available, but reduce the solution#s
dissolved o7ygen capacity, increasing root disease likelihood.
+old weather below 5?Y:=6?Y+> can lock up phosphorous. 0ome varieties, like
e@uatorial 0ativas, don#t grow very well in cold weather. If you can keep the
roots warmer the plant will be able to handle cooler temperatures than it
otherwise could.
If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look
burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. (our hand should not feel hot after a
minute when you hold it at the top of the plants.
'aise the lights andFor aim a fan at the hot Bone. 'oom temps should be
kept under 35Y:=1<./Y+> or <?Y:=41.1Y+> if you add additional +A1.
The optimum temperature for hydroponic solutions to maintain is 55Y:=14.3Y+>.
)t this point, most elements are assimilated highest and atmospheric o7ygen is
most readily dissolved. This part can get tricky. Increases in temperature
increase the rate of photosynthesis and might make some elements more
available, but e7ceeding the ma7imum listed of 53Y:=15.5Y+> will reduce the
solution#s dissolved o7ygen capacity, increasing root disease likelihood.
Monitorin! and Maintainin! ,our 2/c,c)/ (,st/8
0o as you have learned by now, depending on which hydroponic setup you are
using, your nutrient solution goes through a system that recycles and reuses the
nutrients in the reservoir over and over. )s the plant e7tracts the minerals and
nutrients from the solution it will become more and more depleted L empty of
it#s nutritional value to the plant. 'emember, the pH of your water should always
be around 5.? K 5.?.
327
'eservoir maintenance is the routine task of keeping the hydroponic nutrient
solution in the reservoir from becoming too strong or to7ic as the water is being
evaporated and the nutrients within the solution are taken up by the plants.
0imply putJ Top off daily with half=half the strength of your current new
reservoir starting strength> strength nutrients, alternating days topping up with
plain water. +hange the entire reservoir with fresh solution every ten days to
two weeks.
Ane problem in hydroponics solution maintenance is that as water is being
taken up by the plants=as well as evaporating out of the solution>, the
concentration of nutrient salts in the solution becomes gradually stronger,
sometimes to the point of certain elements becoming to7ic to the plants. The
T80 will always become stronger as water is taken away from the solution.
)nother common problem is that hydroponically grown plants will take up what
they need as they need it from the nutrient solution. This means a nutrient
solution left alone will end up lacking key nutrients, with a build*up of to7ic
levels of other key nutrients.
The only way around these problems for the average hydroponic grower is to
practice sound reservoir topping off procedures. The most widely accepted
maintenance method involves daily topping off and routine reservoir solution
replacement.
)n e7ample of this would be topping off the reservoir daily with a nutrient
solution=which is half of the current new reservoir strength>, alternating days by
topping off with plain water and finallyJ changing the entire reservoir solution at
least every two weeks.
+hanging the reservoir solution every two weeks will give the plants a fresh and
well balanced nutrient mi7 which has not been altered by the plants nutrient
uptake.
.any scientific studies have been performed which demonstrate these facts by
-+.0 testing of the nutrient solution contents and the nutrient salts contained
328
within the actual plant tissues, as the plants Qtake*upQ the specific nutrients in
the solution. !lants will take up e7cessive levels of some nutrients, leaving the
solution lacking in certain key nutrients. !lants grown hydroponically can harm
themselves with nutrient deficiencies, lockouts and overdoses, if allowed to
continue feeding without some control over whats available in the reservoir.
Therefore it is critical you learn how to properly monitor your reservoir#s nutrient
levels. ) T80 meter will allow you to see how much of your nutrients have
been used up and how much more you need to adust in order to reach your
optimal nutrient level. There is no way around it, over time your reservoirs will
become depleted and will need replenishing. The more dissolved solids you put
in the water, the better it conducts electricity. ) ppm or &+ reader is e7tremely
accurate and recommended for this purpose, but it is @uite e7pensive. Aver time
it balances out though because you will save lots and lots of money on the cost
of hydroponics nutrients and burned plants.
Not/7 Burn/d -)antsC co88on), r/6/rr/d to as a c"/8ica) burnC is $"at t"/ -)ant
su66/rs 6ro8 du/ to o0/rA6//din!. No Eburnin!F ta9/s -)ac/C t"/ out/r /d!/s o6
,our -)ants just s)o$), d/t/riorat/ and 6)a9/ a$a, $it"/rin! and d,in!.
C"an!in! Your (o)ution
)s water evaporates and is absorbed by the plants, your
water reservoir level will drop. &very 1 weeks you need
to change the nutrient solution. He sure to clean out the
reservoir and discard the old solution. +lean out the
reservoir, pumps, and any other e@uipment that is used
with HAT $)T&'. Then add tap water that has been
aged 4 days or longer to the reservoir then add your
nutrient solution. )nd don#t worry ust yet about the
cups and tubing the plants are in, you generally only
really need to clean them out before you start a new
crop.
329
The timer that starts to pump the nutrient solution should turn on and the
solution should submerge the plants roots every \ minutes=\ is dependent upon
your system>. )s soon as the roots are submerged, the pump can shut down.
Not/7 I6 it ta9/s )on!/r t"an O 8inut/s 6or t"/ roots to !/t $at/rC t"/ roots $i))
t/nd to !ro$ )on!C T"/, usua)), !ro$ 0/r, )on! b/caus/ t"/, ar/ )oo9in! 6or t"/
nutri/nt so)ution sourc/.
In fact, if this happens they can grow so long and thick that they prevent the
solution from reaching all the way up your grow medium. This will also raise the
chance of root material being ripped out and clogging the system. Ance the flow
is clogged by root or any other kind of material inside, you will have to take the
garden apart and clean it. Dot cool dude.
To make sure this doesn#t happen, check the root length every few weeks. If it
is hard to remove the grow medium the plants are in because the roots are
anchored to the internal channel, the roots are too long. The root should be
short enough to not touch the narrow point where the solution enters the cup
holder. If they are too long, trim them down with scissors. .ake sure they are
not going too far, but don#t cut them down unnecessarily. If you need to trim
the roots, it has been reported that trimming the roots 9 inches down will not
330
hurt the plant.
There are several ways to drain your tank. Ane is by adding the drain plug or
faucet. Ar you can obtain a plastic hose like you can get at the a@uarium store
to drain your a@uarium, and siphon the water out. )nother way is to attach the
hose to the submersible pump, using your fist as a coupling, and simply allow
the pump to pump it out into a bucket.
0ince the plant will not absorb nutrients in the same proportions you are adding
them imbalances will result over time. To correct this you will periodically need
to drain and fill your reservoir with fresh nutrient solution. To begin with do this
at least once a month and ust before you start flowering. 8uring flowering
change the reservoir every two weeks. How often you actually need to do this
depends on the plants, the nutrients, the siBe of the reservoir, etc. ;uckily the
plants will let you know how often you need to do this. They will start e7hibiting
signs of nutrient deficiency when there is an imbalance and you will know that
you can#t go longer than that before changing the reservoir. &specially with
clones you will be able to get res changes down to a system of clockwork since
331
the clones will generally all have the same nutrient preferences.
)bout every month, replace the water nutrient solution. &very other time you
change the water, rinse the medium with clear water to wash away any salts
that have been left before adding a new nutrient water solution.
J//-in! Your 2/s/r0oir Coo)
.aintaining a highly aerated root Bone at optimum temperature is key to
achieving high potent yields and problem*free grows. High root Bone
temperatures often plague indoor growers running water culture
=aeroFbubblerFdwcFhydro> systems. These systems are subect to rapid heating
by intense HI8 lighting which increases root Bone temperatures, which
decreases dissolved o7ygen=8A> levels. 'apid plant growth combined with low
8A levels can cause o7ygen deprivation which in turn can result in infection by
opportunistic pathogens such as pythium=root rot>.
The key to ma7imum growth is to keep the air temperature at 55*3?Y:=1/*
15Y+>, but the root Bone at 93Y:=1?Y+> or less.
Not/7 T"/ r/s/r0oir s"ou)d b/ 9/-t s)i!"t), coo)/r t"an t"/ root=on/ A irri!ation
and s,st/8 "/atin! $i)) $ar8 t"/ $at/r b, t"/ ti8/ it r/ac"/s t"/ roots.
Aptimum root growth occurs at 5?*55Y:=16*14.3Y+>J however, destructive root
diseases also grow and reproduce rapidly at these root temperatures.
.aintaining nutrient temperatures at or under 93Y:=1?Y+> ma7imiBes root
growth and 8A, and also prevents root rot.
$arm summer temperatures often re@uire aggressive cooling measures.
Hubblers and 8$+ systems are difficult systems to temperature regulate due to
their=usually> small volumes and lack of e7ternal reservoir.
.ake sure and spray, drip, mist, or circulate nutrients on a fre@uent basis to
e@ualiBe reservoir and root Bone temperatures. Intermittent spraying may
re@uire a slightly lower tank temperature to compensate for system heating
occurring during the QoffQ spray cycle. :or e7ampleJ keep tank temp around
9/Y:=65.5Y+> for intermittent spray cycles, 93Y:=1?Y+> for continuous spraying.
332
Not/7 (ub8/rsib)/ -u8-s add "/at. Us/ an /4t/rna):in)in/ -u8- to 8ini8i=/ "/at
trans6/r. +i!" Dua)it, di!ita) t"/r8o8/t/rs ar/ r/co88/nd/d.
14 Eas, 'a,s to J//- Your 2/s/r0oir Coo)7
)dd cold water when topping up. Hut be carefulJ abrupt changes in
temperature may shock roots.
Gse froBen pop bottlesFmilk ugs. Eeep e7tras in the freeBer to replace
thawed bottles with new froBen ones, replace as necessary.
Increase the siBe of reservoir. ;arger volumes are slower to warm up,
pHFppm is more stable and tank changes are less fre@uent.
!ut reservoirFbubbling buckets onto floor, or set on concrete blocks to
conduct heat away from the water.
Insulate. !aint all e7posed system surfaces white or use reflective
material =such as mylar>. $rap insulation around tank. Gse a camping
cooler for a reservoir=pre*insulated and comes with a drain">.
Gse a swamp cooler. Hlow a fan directly across the surface of reservoir
for e7cellent evaporative cooling. This method works well=e7pect a 6?Y:=*
61.1Y+> drop in reservoir temperature>, but humidity and T80 will
increase, and more fre@uent topping up will be re@uired.
)dd a computer fan to a duct blowing into your tank=cut air e7it holes>.
(ou can run it on a timer=i.e. 6 hr on, 6 hr off>.
'emote reservoir. In*room reservoirs will @uickly heat up to room
temperature. !ut the reservoir=and ballasts> outside of the grow room to
minimiBe tank heating.
)irstone F !ower head F 2enturi air supply should be drawn from a cool
source=ie. +ool outside air>.
!eltier coil=Thermoelectric chillers>. (ou can purchase an Ice !robe=X615>
and it works well. It uses 5? watts and pulls the temperature down /
degrees under ambient. +ools 6? gal or less. =see coolworksinc.com for
more models>
Gse cooling coils.
Hlow air through the root Bone. 8ivert small amounts of cool intake air
333
directly into the root Bone.
(ou can custom build a heavy bo7 with fan and compressor coils, with a
5 foot refrigeration line with a titanium coil at the end. )ll you do is plug
it in, set the controller and put the coil in the reservoir. +irculate nutrients
for the best cooling. -et a bigger model than you need.
'eservoir chillers * These are electric )F+ units made specifically for
cooling water. )lso known as M)@uarium +hillersN.
(t/ri)i=in! and Disin6/ctin! Your (,st/8
0teriliBing and maintaining clean conditions inside your hydroponicsFaeroponics
systems is e7tremely important. This cannot be stressed enough" Eeeping
cloning, vegetative and flowering systems clean gives your plants a fighting
chance against pythium=root rot> and other harmful diseases, ensuring healthy,
vigorous, potent crops.
+leanliness is particularly important in closed=recirculating>
hydroponicFaeroponic systems due to the favorable conditions these systems
present to water and airborne diseases. :ailure to periodically clean a system
can result in stressed plants becoming infected and rapidly spreading disease
throughout the entire system. Ance infected, the entire crop will e7perience
reduced vigor and yield.
!revention is the best cure for disease. 0teriliBation between crops, adding anti*
pathogen additives, and attention to system design can help combat disease.
Mat/ria)s N//d/d7
*Hot water
*45P hydrogen pero7ide =4P and 65P available at pharmacies, 45P at hydro
stores>. A7idiBes, then @uickly =1/ hrs> degrades to water =0teriliBing strength
for 6*/ hours>.
*<<P Isopropyl =rubbing> alcohol. Eills bacteria and viruses on contact.
Not/7 b)/ac" is not r/co88/nd/d. It )/a0/s a to4ic r/sidu/.
334
(,st/8 (t/ri)i=ation
$ear gloves when handling concentrated pero7ide. 8o not use bleach. 0trong
h1o1 will not burn off slime and salt buildup by itself.
'emove all plant matter from system. !re*flush netcupsFpots with water and
inspect to ensure all roots have been removed. !ut netcupsFpots in dishwasher,
then remove and soak in strong h1o1. If infection was present, replace any
grow mediumJ soak gro*rocks in strong h1o1. 'emove and replace all irrigation.
Hiologically*resistant poly tubing is can be cleaned and re*used. 0oak all
accessories in strong h1o1=misters too, if possible>.
(,st/8 C)/anin!
'emove and steriliBe reservoir by initially flushing with water and wiping with a
clean cloth, then spraying 5?P h1o1 with a spray bottle on all surfaces.
$ait for one hour, then thoroughly flush with water twice. :lush system with
water and do a pre*wipe=hot water + h1o1> to remove salt and slime buildup on
all system surfaces.
.i7 up a very strong =ie. 1?P> H1o1 solution and spray it onto all system
surfaces and allow to dry. 'un re*connected system with 6?P h1?1 + hot water
for several hours, dump, and flush again thoroughly with water. 8on#t plant right
away"
Ti-s
8o not share tools and other e@uipment between systems or reservoirs.
Isolating systems will contain any problems. Eeep separate and dedicated
transfer buckets, measuring cups, trays and other e@uipmentJ do not share
between systems. Eeep your moms healthy and vigorous" !ythium=root rot> will
pass systemically to clones.
>Bor t"/ co8-)/t/ root rot r/8/d, -)/as/ r/6/r to t"/ Cannabis Car/
Manua).?
335
Inspect and remove unhealthy, slow growing plants early. Gse a pond strainer to
keep leaves and debris out of tank. Tap water often contains elevated levels of
chlorine to inhibit bacteria
(,st/8 D/si!n Consid/rations
Isolate systems with separate tanks, irrigation and pumps.
Gse reflective surfaces =mylar, white poly or titanium paint> to keep the
root Bone cool between misting periods.
Eeep system light*tight. +over tank =but do not seal>.
If possible, use low*cost G2 F biologically resistant poly irrigation hose to
minimiBe residue buildup. !vc plumbing is difficult to inspect and clean.
.aintain nutrient temperatures in the 95*5?: range for optimum growth
and o1 saturation.
.a7imiBe o1 levels in your systemO waterfall*drop your nutrient return, use
airstonesFventurisFskimmers.
He sure to fre@uently circulate nutrient solution to avoid stagnant water.
336
Mi4in! Your Nutri/nt (o)ution (t/-AB,A(t/-
!roperly preparing a nutrient solution is important. Take your time and do not
rush. (ou#ll probably want to get a container that will be able to hold the same
amount of water as your reservoir. That way you can prepare your mi7ture in
the mi7ing container, then empty your res and immediately pump the fresh
solution into your system so that they will be out of the water for a minimal
amount of time to reduce shock. Ah and use good water. 'A='everse Asmosis>
is best.
(t/- 1? )dd all of your Me7trasN to your reservoir. In flowering for e7ample, you
could add 3?ml of HcuBB Hloom 0timulant=HcuBBs suggested strength for 15
gals>, or a similar Me7traNJ and a small amount of &psom salts * about 1 T0!
=6?ml>. (ou must mi7 your &psom salts in warm water or they will take forever
to dissolve and conse@uently throw off your readings. This little trick will help
you whenever you need to mi7 something solid into your nutrient solution. .ake
sure you dissolve it first.
(t/- %? .i7 your nutrients. $hat you can do is get a gallon of water, and mi7
your nutrients ratios into that container, then simply add that solution to your
reservoir until you reach the desired ppm. (ou +)DDAT mi7 them together in
their pure form, they must be diluted or nutrient lockout can occur. I#ve never
heard anyone speak well of pouring their nutrients directly into the reservoir.

(t/- 3? Gse a submersible water pump to keep everything mi7ing in your main
reservoir. (ou can then add stuff like a -H=-rowth Hormone> mi7ture slowly to
the mi7ing container=if you#re going to be using them> until you reach your
desired ppm.
(t/- 4? )fter you have the ppms set, adust your pH until your mi7ture is
perfect. Then @uickly dump your res and put the contents form your mi7ing
container into your reservoir. He sure your nutrients are fully mi7ed before
trusting your readings. !H usually will take longer to stabiliBe than ppm#s, so
allow the tank to really mi7 up well before you count on a pH reading to be true.
337
Mi4in! Nutri/nt (o)ution Ti-s
If you have a nutrient deficiency, or some other problem that you think
might be nutrient related then change your nutrients""
Dutrients strengths should be @ualified with the ppmFus conversion
factor used =such as ?.5, ?.9 or ?.5>, which can make a significant
difference to the actual strengths.
)nother mi7*up procedure is to mi7 the nutrients directly into the main
reservoir. This method takes longer, as adustments re@uire additional
mi7*up of separate nutrient components.
Eeep your nutrients at a pH between 5.1 K 5.3. If it is in this range 8A
DAT try to get it MperfectN by adding pH up and down. If you mi7 up
your solution and you don#t H)2& to use the pH up or down 8AD#T.
$hen you do adust try to hit 5.5 but once again dont be too picky. If
its a little higher or lower let it go. (oull ust mess things up by trying to
mi7 it e7actly, over*analyBing is a mistake.
If system heat is a problem, you can use a silicone solution to raise pH
and give the plants a little something to help them out in hot weather.
Gse it sparingly. I wouldnt add more than 6 ml per gallon into your
reservoir. It may slow down growth if used in e7cess.
0ome growers prefer to add main nutrient components first, additives
later. )nything organic will throw your &+F!!. measurements off and it
will be harder to udge how much salt fertiliBer you#ve added. It is best
to put the additives in last after you#re happy with the chem levels.
He careful when mi7ing highly concentrated nutrients, as lockout can
occur when adding pH G!=)s may occur in a smaller volume>. E can
precipitate out of solution so make sure pH G! or 8A$D is added to the
nutrient solution with additional water.
$hen you give a range of ppm, start off low and mi7 a little e7tra
-H=growth hormone> to slowly bump up the ppms as the days go on to
make sure the plants can handle it. &very strain will grow a little
different.
338
8ont try to add all kinds of stuff to your res, the simpler the better. That
is why I recommend adding so little &psom salts. If you start having .g
issues you would then bump it up.
(ou will not need H1A1=hydrogen pero7ide> unless you have an
improper nutrient solution. If you keep your reservoir temps at 93*
51Y:=1?*11.1Y+>, and it is light tight, you wont have algae problems
and your plants will be the happiest. The higher your nutrient
temperatures go, the less A1 the water can hold. It is a property of
water itself and no amount of bubbles will help.
Nutritiona) oc9out
Ane of the most frustrating difficult common problems growers encounter is
Dutritional ;ockout. Dutrient ;ockout basically occurs when the optimal nutrient
levels are not pH and nutritionally balanced so your plants cannot get access to
a specific nutrient or group of nutrients it needs, and conse@uently it develops a
deficiency. )fter being in your tank for 5 or 9 days, and being eaten for 5 or 9
days, the nutrients become imbalanced. !erhaps you are growing plants that
ate all the nitrogen first and ust snacked around the iron, magnesium and
calcium, or vice*versa. It can also be caused by a chemical reaction in the
mediumFsolution that causes a to7ic substance to block the roots, or causes a
chemical reaction that creates another substance that changes the chemical
properties of the other nutrients. There can be many causes, but almost always
the results are discoloration in the leaves, yellowing or rust spots, or curling up
of leaf tips. It also becomes apparent when your plants were consuming a
gallon or half gallon of water every day, and then suddenly when you check the
levels the ne7t day, they did not drink any water at all. This is a classic case of
Dutritional ;ockout.
>Bor t"/ co8-)/t/ r/8/d,C -)/as/ r/6/r to t"/ Cannabis Car/ Manua).?
339
Dai),:'//9), +,dro-onic (,st/8 Maint/nanc/
C"/c9)ist
Dai),7
` a 8ip your portable phFtdsFtemp tester=s> in Isopropyl alcohol, then rinse with
water before testing solutions to minimiBe contamination between reservoirs.
$hen taking a reading, submerge only the steriliBed portion of the tester into
the reservoir.
` a !eriodically inspect roots for signs of pythium. +onsider pulling any plants
with these symptoms.
` a AptionalO )dd 6.5ml 45P h1o1Fgallon. H1o1 can attack beneficial bacterialJ
H1o1 use is not recommended when using these enBymes. H1o1 at low
concentrations can add beneficial o7ygen to the reservoir without killing these
enByme additives.
'//9),7
` a .ist all tools, transfer buckets, etc with isopropanol alcohol in a spray bottle,
then rinse with water before use.
` a $eekly or bi*weekly nutrient changes are recommended. =-o longer if using
enBymes to maintain>.
` a 'emove and soak all pump filtersFgaskets, thermometers, strainers, air
stones, etc in strong h1o1 + hot water.
` a $ipe away salt and slime buildup.
` a )dd pythium*inhibiting enBymes to tank=weaker h1o1 strengths are
recommended when used in conunction with these biological additives.> It is
important to maintain enByme strengths.
341
Your Gro$ 2oo8
0etting up an optimal growth environment for your cannabis is crucial for
reaping a big potent harvest. (our plant#s healthy productive growth cycle is a
direct result of the @uality and care put into setting up your grow area, so take
your time" Hydroponic gardens and soil gardens can both be set up outdoors,
but for the purposes of this section we are=obviously> focusing primarily on
indoor growing. 0o where is an ideal location to grow indoorsC
)n attic, closet, or similar grow area will suffice but a spare room dedicated to
growing is preferred and will reap you the most reward. )n attic is great not
only because of its stealthy @ualities, but it is also e7tremely insulated so
controlling temperature year*round becomes easy. The downside to this is due
to most locations attics are in, heat buildup is a concern if not ventilated
properly.
342
'A2NING7 An, s/-arat/ unit 6ro8 ,our "ous/ suc" as a !ara!/C barnC
or s"/dT ar/ "i!"), ris9, ar/as to !ro$ cannabis. 2/6/r to t"/
Marijuana (/curit, B)ac9boo9 6or 8or/ in6or8ation.
Ideally a section of a basement or large room with with surrounding walls
makes a very good grow area to set up in. .ost growers use a spare bedroom
or a closet. )lso, you will want the entry point to have a lock on it. 0ome
growers conceal the entrance with a custom*fitted bookshelf door, large
painting, or mirror.
Hefore you make a final decision on your grow area#s location be sure to
consider that it .G0T contain these elements to guarantee potent plant growth
and ma7imum yieldsJ
E)/ctricit, K &nough power to run everything and safe and properly
wired so no fires are started"
Air * :resh, and clean.
'at/r K &asy access to water.
+idd/n K .inimiBes the chance of theft or unwanted discovery.
</nti)ation K Has to be good.
T/8-/ratur/ K +ool area that stays above at least 9?Y:=65Y+>.
(urroundin! 'a))s K :or reflecting and focusing MlostN light properly.
If you#re opting for farming mariuana aka needing .)00I2& indoor yields, your
e7pert light proof grow room would probably consist of a 6/ft 7 1/ft 7 <ft grow
area =; 7 $ 7 H> containing several lights suspended from the ceiling. )ll the
walls, flooring, and roof would be covered in reflective material such as :lat
white or .ylar. (our ballasts would be attached to the wall. (our plants would
be placed on the ground in large container buckets spread between the lights.
343
)s far as ventilation goes, multiple air ducts and e7traction fans would cycle in
fresh air and suck out hot air. In order to eliminate the strong smell you would
have an ABone -enerator as well. (ou would also have all the e7tra goodies like
a +A1 -enerator, Humidity controller unit, and a ;ight 'ail. ) ;ight 'ail is a light
mover that is suspended from the ceiling, your lights hang down from it, and it
rotates the lights in a circular pattern over your plants. This allows fewer lights
to be used in covering a large grow area such as this.
Not/7 I6 ,ou -)an on usin! a )i!"t 8o0/r it is stron!), r/co88/nd/d t"at ,ou us/
/it"/r 1***' or 6**' )i!"ts. A 4**' or %.*' $i)) und/rA)i!"t t"/ /n0iron8/nt
$"/n t"/ )i!"t is trac9in! bac9 and 6ort" o0/r a distanc/ o6 6 6//t. A 1***' )i!"t
is b/st $"/n usin! a )i!"t 8o0/r.
Ar maybe you are content with a small cabinet in your room, or desire starting
off in a closet. &ither way, I don#t want to limit you so now you see what is
possible.
(our grow room is your room of possibilities. )s you further refine your favorite
hobby, you will learn to make the best of your grow space. !erpetual grow
344
cycling is born. This is when you keep most of the room flowering at all times.
This can be accomplished by having an e@ual number of plants flowering and in
the vegetative grow stage. )s you begin to learn more and more about plant
genetics you can start to develop your own breed and stock. 0oon you can find
yourself entering competitions and producing fine @uality seeds. 0eeds sell for
around X4? * X65? per 65 seeds. (our favorite hobby can realistically become a
great source of a rich income for you=be sure to check your area for regulations
and laws regarding the possession or selling of cannabis seeds">. The
possibilities are endless" The sky is the limit"""
T$o Gro$ 2oo8s
!roductive growers have two grow roomsFsections" Ane for vegetative
growthFcloning and the other dedicated for flowering. This alternative to
growing under a H!0 or .H during vegetation is to set up a dedicated
vegetative area, and a dedicated flowering area.
The vegetative area would use a cloning hardware or something similar that
would allow seeds or clones to grow and two standard /3 inch fluorescent
tubes, turned on 1/ hours a day.
The flowering area would use a standard hydroponic garden set up with
H!0 andFor .H fi7tures turned on for 61 hours a day.
The cool thing about this method is that while the flowering plants are going
through their growth cycle`inside the hydroponic set upa, the germinated seeds
or clones will have a few months to develop inside the clone setup. Then after
the flowering plants have been harvested, the plants in the vegetative area are
ready to move to the flowering area. Dew seedlings or clones can then be
started in the clone hardware=such as a cloner or something similar>.
If electricity costs are a concern than you will probably want to go with this
dual*room set up as electricity use will be about 15P to 45P less because the
.H or H!0 light is only on 61 hours a day. 0ince the flowering plants need
absolute darkness during the dark phase, the light from the vegetative area
can#t reach the flowering plants. 0o they need to be isolated, either by using
curtains, a thick lightproof black cloth=or something similar>, or by being located
345
far away from each other.
Not/7 T"/ )on!/r a -)ant "as b//n !ro$in! in t"/ 0/!/tati0/ -"as/C t"/ 6ast/r it
$i)) 6)o$/r.
The only problem with this grow room setup is the e7tra space needed for two
different grow areas...
Apting for two grow areas, one for vegging and one for flowering=this can also
be accomplished by placing a light barrier dividing your room in half>, results in
@uick heavy potent yields. Hlack plastic works very well for a light barrier, ust
make sure you staple it and seal it properly. It cannot be stressed enough that
when utiliBing this grow setup to make sure the light from the vegetative room
does not disturb the sleep from the plants in the flowering room"""
Not/7 '"/n sta-)in! an, t,-/ o6 -)astic to 6)oorin!C $a))sC or c/i)in!C $/
r/co88/nd t"at ,ou us/ a )itt)/ -i/c/ o6 sDuar/ cardboard b/t$//n t"/ -)astic
and t"/ sta-)/s so t"at t"/ -)astic do/snKt ri-.
346
(/ttin! U- Your Gro$ 2oo8
Dow that you have decided upon your ideal growing spot, it is important to take
care of it and keep it as clean as you possibly can. 8esign your indoor garden
with care and planning. 8ecide beforehand how many plants you will have, how
big you will grow them, the dimensions of your room, and how you will position
the lights.
(ou#re going to need easy access to each plant, so leave yourself room to work.
)lso remember you will be using lots of water. )nd it is imperative that you keep
any light leaks from the outside out. +over up interior windows, cracks, or
anything else that will show light from the outside. Having light leak is like
inviting people to come into your grow room. ;ight leaks are unacceptable and
greatly reduce security.
347
C)/anin!
!lants a 2&'( susceptible to infestation and disease. Indoor gardens should
contain only items that are absolutely essential for growing. !roperly cleaning
your grow area before beginning growing is a critical step to ensure long*term
success. 8o not overlook this section.
The first step is to clean your grow area before use. If you don#t clean your
grow room, bugs and germs will invade it and sabotage your plants. This means
you#ll need to scrub the walls, vacuum, clean all the e@uipment, and wash the
floors etc etc etc. It is advisable to remove the carpets if you can. 'emove )D(
residue or debris that might include any form of insects, parasites or disease. It
is +'ITI+); to clean everything in the growing area then steriliBe it with
something like ;ysol, bleach, or some other strong germ killer to prevent the
mariuana plants from being harmed by germs, bacteria, molds, etc. )ny dust or
mildew is GD)++&!T)H;&. )ny carpets, drapes, or other fabrics can harbor
dust, germs, and mildew so they should be removed.
348
Hegin by cleaning the walls and floors with bleach and water very thoroughly.
0crub them until they are sanitary and clean. !ay specific attention to corners
and any holes. (ou want your grow area to be like a factory where they
manufacture microchipsJ a completely sterile clean germ*free environment.
Dow this step is optional, but depending on where you live and where your
grow room is =especially if it is an old attic> you may want to bomb the room
with a pesticide smoke bomb depending if you have a pest or insect problem.
These are available at most hardware stores. :ollow the instructions very
carefully on your product#s label and bomb the room accordingly. This will wipe
out all pests, bugs, larvae, algae, eggs etc and any other nasty critters that will
threaten your precious mariuana plants. )fter bombing clean the walls, floor,
and ceiling once more to ensure a clean healthy environment for your plants to
grow in. )ir @uality is a crucial factor in growing mariuana, you want to make
sure no residue from the pesticide has been left on your walls, floor, or ceiling.
349
Dever to bring anything that has been sitting outside into your clean grow room
as you can bring in pests. He sure to properly clean it with bleach first. )nything
that enters your garden should be considered a potential threat to your plants.
:ungus, bacteria, and bugs can come in on tools, e@uipment, clothing, and pets.
)lways wear clean clothes when entering your garden. $ashing the walls with
bleach weekly will help the prevention of fungus and bugs.
'A2NING7 N/0/r /nt/r ,our !ard/n $"/n b/in! in contact $it"
"ous/-)antsT as t"is t"/ -/r6/ctC 8ost co88on $a, to introduc/ t"/
d/ad), -arasit/C Es-id/rA8it/sF ri!"t into ,our !ard/n.
B)oorin!
De7t step after properly L thoroughly cleaning your grow room is to lay down
plastic drop sheets=the one#s used for painting, available at most hardware
stores> on the floor. This will protect your floor from water. $atering your plants
will create lots of spills. +over up the bottoms of your plants with trays to catch
e7cessive runoff water. .op the floor fre@uently. )lso if growing using soil, in
order to keep the plants from touching the cold cement floor you can use
cinderblocksFbricks with wood for raising up a stable surface to place the plant
containers on.
Not/7 You 8a, $is" to co0/r ,our 6)oors $it" a $"it/ -)astic or si8i)ar 8at/ria) 6or
8a4i8u8 )i!"t r/6)/ctionC t"is is discuss/d in d/tai) in t"/ 6o))o$in! s/ction.
350
2/6)/cti0/ (ur6ac/s
It#s time to set up the surrounding walls, ceilings, and floors for light reflecting.
351
This will ensure your plants get as much direct light as possible, fueling their
ma7imum possible growth. )ll areas of the grow room should be set up with
reflective material. This is accomplished by painting a #flat white# or setting up
reflecting material such as .ylar. .ylar can be found in most hardware stores.
The more reflective the walls, ceiling and floor are the better. Don*reflective
surfaces will waste your light by turning it into heat. .ylar works the best for
reflecting light"
'A2NING7 Do not us/ 8irrorsC as t"/, absorb )i!"t1
8on#t use tin foil either. ) good @uality reflector will ensure all your precious
light is being directed right at your plants for optimal absorption producing the
highest @uality potent big yields as possible. )nd remember, if you are going to
paint the walls be sure to use :;)T white, as this is the most reflective. 'egular
352
white will DAT reflect as much light as flat white will, resulting in lower yields
due to lack of sufficient concentrated light e7posure.
)lso to make sure light isn#t visible from the outside seal the inside of the
windows with fire board and glue. 0eal any cracks or unnecessary light leaks to
keep the room as airtight as possible and to avoid any mold, fungus, or pests
from getting in.
C"oosin! A 2/6)/cti0/ (ur6ac/
+hoosing the right surface for the walls of your grow room is very important, as
up to /?P of your total yield comes from the edge * the right wall surface can
increase the amount of light those plants receive by up to 4?P" )rtificial lighting
diminishes e7ponentially with distance, so it is important to McontainN as much of
this light as possible and direct it correctly. 'eflective surfaces also help
illuminate the lower portions of the garden, providing lower buds with light. This
means big tasty yields as all your plants surfaces are getting concentrated light
e7posure.
To get the best results with your light and walls, it is important to get the walls
as close as possible to your garden to ensure the least amount of light is
wasted. The percentages provided are only useful as a general guideline, as
they present the range of reflectivity of the particular surfaces. The high
percentage presents the best possible circumstances for that material =for
e7ample a <<P reflectivity rating for mylar sheeting would be under ideal
conditions * no creases, completely flat, no discoloration, etc>.
The absolute best way to determine how well your grow room walls reflect light
would be to purchase a light meter and measure your light directlyJ then take
an opa@ue board and hold it a few inches off one of your walls with the light
meter below the board in such a fashion that the light reflects off the wall and
onto the light meter. (ou can then compare the difference between the two and
determine a percentage from those numbers. The closer the two numbers are,
the better your wall reflects light. It is important that in both measurements,
your light meter is the same distance from the light, otherwise your results will
be skewed.
353
Here are some of the most commonly used materials used for grow room wallsO
Bo,)on7
) great solution for growers who are interested in long term use, and though it
may be slightly more e7pensive than mylar, its durability will more than make up
for its cost. It has the ability to reflect about <5P of the light=and appro7imately
35P of the heat energy, so a good ventilation system should be used in
combination>.
:oylon is a much more durable version of mylar, made of spun polyester fabric
and reinforced with foil laminate. :oylon is resistant to most solutions, won#t
tear or fade, and can be wiped or washed clean.
) recommended method to attach :oylon to the walls would be using 2elcro, as
it makes taking it down for cleaning much easier and reduces the risk of tearing,
creasing or bending it. If this is used for your walls, making sure you get it flush
with the wall with no pockets of air between it and the wall to prevent hotspots.
354
M,)ar7
.ylar is a highly reflective polyester film* it is one of the best materials on the
market for light proofing. It acts as a moisture barrier as well as a light reflector.
It comes in varying thickness, the most common being 6 and 1 mm thick. The
1mm thick mylar while not @uite as durable as the foylon, is still pretty rugged.
The 6mm thick mylar tears fairly easily, so taking it down for cleaning is @uite
difficult without accidentally damaging it in the process. Hoth types of mylar are
able to reflect appro7imately <1*<5P reflective, giving it the potential to be
more reflective than foylon. :oylon is more easily cleaned as well as it being
harder to crease, foylon usually ends up being slightly more reflective.
.ylar reflects radiant heat energy ust as well as foylon=around 35P>, so proper
ventilation is also necessary if mylar is used in your grow room. )ttaching this to
walls can be done in a similar fashion as foylon, and the same caution should be
used to avoid creating hotspots in your room. The 6mm thick mylar stands a fair
chance of being creased or ripped in the process unfortunately, even if 2elcro is
used to attach to the walls.
.ylar comes in several different typesJ $hite, Hlack, .etaliBed, )luminiBed,
8impled .etaliBed, and Threaded )luminiBed =reinforced>.
$hen choosing a lighting surface a grower is interested in the obvious, heFshe
wants to wrap their grow space, large or small, with the best reflective material
available. )luminiBed or .etaliBed .ylar is an ideal choice. .ylar can withstand
355
temperatures of up to 4<1Y:=1??Y+>, .ylar is also electrical resistant and fire
retardant.
Gnlike foil, mylar lays flat without the crinkles and creases if handled with care.
.ylar will not create concentrated hot spots.
.ylar comes in many material -auges. .ost Hydroponic shops only carry ??6Q
and ??1Q mil=which is all you need if your using as a grow room reflector>. .ylar
can be cleaned with $inde7, alcohol or any other mild household cleaner. )n
antibacterial hand soap with warm water is perfect.
C3 AntiAD/t/ction Bi)87
) specialiBed type of mylar that e7hibits the same properties as the 1mm thick
mylar, but in addition to reflecting appro7imately <1*<5P of the light, it also is
<?P infrared proof, making your grow room all but invisible to I' scanning. This
can also be attached in the same manner as foylon or mylar, and the same
caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room.
B)at '"it/ 5aint7
)s aforementioned, flat white is a great option for large grow rooms or for
people who are interested in a low maintenance reflective wall surface. :;)T
white paint has the ability to reflect between 55*35P of the light, and does not
create hotspots.
Not/7 Addin! a 6un!icid/ is r/co88/nd/d $"/n -aintin! in ,our !ard/n.
-lossy, plain, and eggshell whites will not reflect light as efficiently as flat white.
0emi*gloss paint for e7ample, only has the ability to reflect between 55*9?P of
the light. )lso important to remember when using paint is that any smears or
blemishes on the surface take away from how reflective the wall is * e7treme
care should be taken to avoid marking or staining the walls. Titanium white
paint is very reflectiveJ however it is usually only used on reflectors due to its
high cost.
356
E)asto8/r/ 5aint7
) rubberiBed roofing paint with <?P reflection. -ood for growbo7es. .ildew
resistant. Highly reflective.
E5o),F '"it/:B)ac9 5)astic7
!oly plastic is useful if you are setting up a temporary grow room or dont want
to damage the walls. !lastic is easily cleaned. Hlack L $hite poly=9mil> is very
tough, reflective=the white side reflects <?P of all light> and can be handled on
a daily basis without damage or tearing. It is also a good choice for partitioning
off spaces ensuring ma7imum efficiency of your lighting.
The purpose of the black side is to not allow any light to pass through the
plastic, which ensures your dark cycle remains dark. The white side is 55*<?P
reflective. +hoose a 9 mil thickness of poly for ma7imum light blockage and
durability.
'A2NING7 I6 -)astic is -ut too c)os/ to t"/ )i!"t it $i)) 8/)t1
!oly can be attached to the walls by using carpenters nails or using tape glue or
any other similar means. This can be used as a cheap alternative to mylar or if
painting your grow room is out of the @uestion.
(t,ro6oa87
This is e7cellent for harsh environment growrooms such as an attic, provided
you have a good ventilation system and a way to keep the temperatures from
rising too high=an aFc unit or similar> as it is an e7cellent insulator.
It is also a great material for use in a temporary setup or for use as a Qtraveling
reflectorQ on a light mover, where weight is a concern. It is appro7imately 55*
35P light reflective so it is comparable to using a flat white paint. :oam will not
create hot spots. 'igid foam can be purchased in sheets, and can be used as a
free standing wall or can be taped, glued or nailed to the wall, the last generally
being the most successful method.
357
E8/r!/nc, B)an9/ts7
&mergency M0pace HlanketsN are ultra thin polyester blankets that are sold in
most camping stores and are constructed of a single layer of polyester film that
is covered with a layer of vapor deposited aluminum.
It is not very effective at reflecting light because it is so thin. Holding it between
you and a light source, many small holes are noticed at the intersections of
creases and the entire blanket is translucent to begin with, this coupled with the
many creases that are in it when you purchase it takes away a significant
amount of it reflectivity. It is very easily creased which detracts from its ability to
reflect light. )nd while it reflects nearly <?P of radiant heat energy, it is only
able to reflect around 5?P of the light.
0o why use itC The largest advantage of using this type of material is that it is
very cheap and therefore easily replaced. Hut, emergency blankets can create
hotspots if not attached flush to the wall so it is important that no air gaps e7ist
between it and your supporting wall. The easiest way to attach this is to use
tape=aluminum or metal tape is the best>, as it tears very easily once it is cut or
punctured.
358
A)u8inu8 Boi)7
)luminum foil is no more than 55P reflective when it is flat. $hen it becomes
creased its reflectivity is even lower=around 45P.> It is also very dangerous to
use because it creates hotspots easily, is electrically conductive, and is a fire
haBard when it is in close contact with HI8 lighting. This should only be used as
a last resort.
,.8A DAT G0& :AI; GD;&00 (AG H)2& TA"
'at/rin! Unit
)n optimal method for watering is to place a 65? liter water barrel in the corner
of your grow room. :ill it about 6F4 full of fresh water. (ou will want to add a
water pump inside the barrel connected to a hose with a spray noBBle for
watering your plants. De7t add a circulation pump that you will provide a good
mi7 of water and nutrients. This will plug into your garden hose and on the
other end of it attach a water wand. )dd also a breaker head to the end of your
water wand, this will add air to your water mi7, o7ygenating the water ust
before it is supplied to your plants.
(ou may also want to add a heating device that will keep the water at a
constant appro7imate 54./Y:=14Y+>. .ake sure the barrel has a ;I8 on it, as
this will prevent any water from evaporating unnecessarily increasing the
humidity of your room. This will also ensure that no unwanted debris falls in
your water supply.
The concentration of calcium and magnesium indicate the MhardnessN of your
water supply. $ater containing 6??*65? mg of calcium per liter is fine. 'everse
osmosis machines are the easiest most efficient machines available to clean raw
water. This machine allows pure water to pass through it, and in effect it will
filter out the dissolved solids from your tap water. This is the ideal water for
your plants.
Not/7 Most o6 t"/s/ 8at/ria)s ar/ a0ai)ab)/ at an, ",dro-onic s"o- or "ard$ar/
stor/.
359
(/ttin! u- a C)os/t Gro$ (-ac/ (t/-AB,A(t/-
0etting up a closet is a little bit different than setting up a large grow room, but,
similar principles still applyO
(t/- 1? To start you need a small space * a closet roughly 17579=;7$7H> feet.
+lean and empty it out as mentioned above.
(t/- %? +over the walls, ceiling and doors with aluminiBed mylar, shiny side out.
This saves light for the plants, ideally, the only light absorber in the room will be
the plants.
360
(t/- 3? De7t step is to put your lights in the room. :luorescents are the
cheapest and most readily available. This is the real advantage of fluorescents
for the closet grower. :or the professional, e7pensive metal halide and high*
pressure sodium lights give more light for less electricity. Hut these lights are
overkill, and too damn hot for the amateur closet grower.
(t/- 4? !ut either your hydroponic system in, or set up your containers=if
growing using soil>. Eeep good air circulation using a ventilation system=check
below>.
That#s all there is too it"
Cabin/t Gro$in! (t/-AB,A(t/-
+abinet growing is a great method, the goal being to keep a cycle of plants
growing at all times. (ou can use anything ranging from a small closet, a hot
press, and old refrigerator, a bo7, a press, or simply a cupboard or cabinet.
Typically your grow area will be small accommodating 6 to 5 plants at a time.
(t/- 1? To get started you will want to get ahold of the cabinet, a light, and an
air vent with a fan. 0et up your light to be adustable, you can use chains or
some other type of non*flammable cord. .ake a large hole in the unit to allow
361
air to enter the unit, and another hole is created to allow air to escape. !lace
your fan in one of the holes that will serve it#s purpose of e7tracting the hot air
generated by your bulb. It#s good to put the vent and fan at the top of the
cabinet near the light. This is due to hot air rising and collecting at the top. (ou
can also place a fan on the intake hole as well. 0et your intake fan speed higher
than your hot air removal fan so that constant fresh air is being pumped into the
unit and stays longer.
(t/- %? )s described in the reflective surfaces section, paint the walls a :lat
$hite or use .ylar for reflective ma7imum plant light absorption purposes.
(t/- 3? (our plants=in separate pots> are placed inside the cabinet and will go
through their entire life grow cycle inside the cabinet growing environment.
+lones can be taken and placed on a second shelf inside the cabinet. 0ome
people like to create a small compartment inside their cabinet for clones and
germination. This compartment must be kept small, you only need enough room
to keep the clones alive. Gnless you are using a very big setup then you will not
need an intake fan for the clones. )ll you#ll need is a hole in the side to allow
the clones to breathe. )fter harvest, place the clones in the grow room and
repeat the process. This puts you up in a perpetual growing cycle. If using the
right strains you are able to harvest / ounces of bud every 4? days. It really
depends on how big you want to create your grow room. $e have seen 5ft 7 5ft
setups that have yielded /? ounces of mariuana every 1 months. This can
easily be achieved with careful maintenance and optimal grow environment
conditions=mentioned throughout this guide>.
362
(t/a)t" Gro$in!
.any modern growers find it difficult to grow in large closets or huge grow
rooms. Hut they still want to e7perience the incredible benefits of growing their
own delicious supply of potent healing herb. 0o what do they doC
The answer is to grow in a stealth setup of course"
There are two options growers face, they can either spend lots of money, time,
and effort and build their own homemade stealthy drawers F cabinets F
whatever, or, they can purchase a pre*made professionally designed stealth
growing bo7. There#s only a few companies who make good one#s right now.
>5ictur/d abo0/7 t"/ st/a)t", (un (-/a9/r b, 0unlight0heds.?
363
The original design, turn*key !+ !lanter is one of the most awesome stealth
grow setups available to the /1? community
today. This bo7 utiliBes 0ea of -reen so you can
grow T$A plants in it from start to finish" It#s
incredibly easy to operate, light*proof, and super
discrete. They also throw in a bunch of free
accessories that includes everything a stealth
grower needs to get started right away=including
its own HI8 L odor eliminator">.
5C 5)ant/r B/n/6its7
;ight !roof and completely discrete.
8imensionsO 3.6Q 7 1?.9Q 7 63.9Q
=$7H78>
0ecure turn*key locking system means
only you get access to your plants.
They are the A'I-ID)TA' of the !+
-row Ho7 design.
+ustom made interiors have a <<P
reflective surface for ma7imum light
absorption by the plants.
Includes ventilation system=6??+ +:. of
air cooling>.
Includes reservoir with 1 plant capacity.
-rows over 6lb. of plant matter annually.
Hands down the best @uality manufacturer on the
market today is 0unlight0heds.
364
They offer garage, shed, and other units too.
>5ictur/d "/r/7 t"/ Coo) Cab s/ri/s b, 0unlight0heds?.
:inally, options for those growers who feel that lack of privacy is the
only thing keeping them from harvesting pounds of their favorite greens.
365
Ma9in! Your O$n E66/cti0/ Carbon Bi)t/r
) +arbon filter is great for reducing odors. They are attached to your ventilation
system. Here is how anyone can make a carbon filter to remove odors for
cheap. This is a very simple and effective unit that will work ust as well as a
commercial unit that costs X/??+ G08 dollars.
(u--)i/s7
*9Q pvc clean out cap available at any hardware store.
*/Q to 9Q adapter =available at any hardware store> * you could substitute this
with a /Q to 9Q pvc adapter.
*a roll of aluminum screen =aluminum is better, not fiberglassJ you need the
strength of the metal to make it retain it#s shape>.
366
*a roll of duct tape.
*a clothing hamper=you can probably find other suitable containers of varying
siBes>.
*roll of high loft @uilt batting.
*a length of /Q dryer vent hose.
<ir!in Acti0at/d Carbon7
(ou can get carbon at most a@uarium supply web sites * the bulk containers are
best here. Eent marine or &sv brand is pretty good. !elletiBed activated carbon
in the 5 gallon bucket * 5 gallons should do at least a couple fills, which should
last for years. (ou can use lignite*based carbon, but be sure to find QactivatedQ
and QpellitiBedQ * it is much more effective than the crushed carbon.
!elletiBed activated carbon has been crushed and formed into pellets, then
washed in an acid solution to create millions of charged pores in the pellets. )s
air passes through the pellets, it attracts odor ions and particles. The carbon
becomes Me7haustedN when all the pores are clogged. !elletised carbon has
more available surface area than the crushed stuff, and becomes e7hausted
much more slowly. It can be found and most online a@uarium supple outlets
Construction7

$rap open the roll of screen around the pvc cap, then duck tape the cap in
place. This serves to hold the screen open to the appropriate siBe for use.
367
Trim the screen roll down to the appropriate length for the siBe hamper you are
using. %ust eyeball it to be even with the top of the hamper rim * ust be within
and inch or two.
The ne7t step is to insert the /Q to 9Q adapter and tape it in place.
Dow we need to wrap the tube we ust built in some of the @uilt batting. Gnroll
the roll of batting and double it over until it is the same length as the tube we
have built.
Here I show and the appropriate batting length for the hamper we are using *
this means unfolding the batting one time after unrolling itJ it is then
conveniently cut to the right length.
368
Dow tape the end to the screen roll the tube around till the batting overlaps ust
a bit and trim her off, then tape the batting up nice and clean.
Ak, now we need to line the inside of the hamper with the batting * the same
fold siBe will work here also. %ust wrap the inside and then tape it to the top rim
so that it wont move around or drop down into the hamper during filling.
Dow we can insert the tube we have ust finished building inside the batting*
lined hamper basket. Hold the inner tube as you pour in the carbon between the
two layers of batting. (ou can change the amount of carbon by simply wrapping
the tube with more rounds of batting. This filter would probably use 5 pounds or
so.
Not/7 a %688 t"ic9 )a,/r o6 carbon is consid/r/d an o-ti8u8 t"ic9n/ss 6or s8/))
r/8o0a) and b)o$/r bac9-r/ssur/.
369
)ll we need to do is add a roll of batting to the top to close things off nicely.
Dow we can cut out the top so that we can get the lid over the tube end. 0tick
the lid on and maybe tape it down if you need to.
Dow we can attach out /Q dryer vent hose and tape it in place. )ttach the other
end to a suitable air blower, and wha*la" * a clean fresh smelling room"
Here is an e7ample of taping a dryer hose to the output on a blower, but you
can get blowers with flanges at most grow shops.
There you have it. +ommercial*grade effective homemade carbon filter for
eliminating );; e7iting odors in your grow room.
370
En0iron8/nta) Conditions Bor E4-)osi0/ Gro$t"
(our plant should live in a stable temperature and optimal growth environment
all day and night, in order to ensure highest possible @uality smoke.
371
O4,!/n
8uring your mariuana plant#s vegetative and flowering stages plenty of o7ygen*
rich fresh air is re@uired for vigorous growth. )lways keep a window open to
refresh the air @uality in your grow room each day. Hetween watering=dry
periods> your plant#s roots need to breathe. If you#re growing in winter time the
cold air can inhibit growth, so keep the air recycling e7posure time to an
absolute minimum.
If your grow area is enclosed then you will need to get some sort of fan F
ventilation system to suck out the old stale air and pump in fresh air. :resh air
surrounding your plants also tricks them into thinking they are in an outside
grow environment, so conse@uently your buds will grow bigger and faster.
Air </nti)ation
Do indoor garden can be without a ventilation
system. Heat is the biggest problem for the indoor
growerJ that is, maintaining the proper
temperature for the plants. In order for plants to
thrive they need a constant supply of fresh air.
&ach average 6???w light increases the room
temperature by 6?*65Y:=*61.1 to *<./Y+>. !roper
ventilation is essential for healthy thriving plants.
.ake sure your vent fan is strong enough to
produce a pronounced suction effect in your grow
chamber. ) room with an e7haust fan on the ceiling
is a good choice=if that is available to you>. The e7haust fan on the ceiling will
help keep the temperature cool, and if needed, you can upgrade to a stronger
fan to remove a larger volume of hot air created by the grow*lights. This will
keep your room nice and cool K the ideal growth environment for growing dank
buds.
(ou can install a thermostat and a ventilator system so as soon as the grow
room gets too hot, the thermostat will switch on the ventilator to cycle out the
hot air. ) constant flow of fresh air must be available to the plants. )ll hot, stale
372
air should be eected to outside the grow area and not be immediately recycled
=hintO vent it outdoors, preferably high up">. .ake sure your fan is up, over the
plants to collect the hot air that rises. If using an air intake, it should be
positioned low to the ground to pump cool air into the chamber.
Not/7 It is ad0isab)/ to -)ac/ 6i)t/rs on ,our 0/nti)ation s,st/8C as t"is $i)) b)oc9
out an, un$ant/d odors 6ro8 /sca-in!. Carbon coa) 6i)t/rs ar/ 0/r, !ood.
(ou can also position an oscillating=rotating> fan so that it is blowing directly
over the tops of your plants, cooling the area
between them and your light. (ou may also
want to have an additional fan blowing air
below the buds. Hoth fans should be positioned
so that they receive incoming air from outside
the chamber and blow towards the ventilation
fan. The oscillating fan will also assist in the
buds developing thicker stalks and stems when
a constant gentle breeBe is applied.
The reason fresh air and good ventilation is a
.G0T, other than heating removal reasons, is it
373
is re@uired to replace the o7ygen supply to the plants due to their constant
carbon dio7ide e7pulsion. +ycling clean air into the grow area is an absolute
necessity if you want to ensure ma7imum yields. &very grow room will need
some sort of e7haust fan to move hot stale carbon dio7ide*saturated air out.
Intake areas should be clean and dust free. )ir intake and outtake areas should
be as far away from eachother as possible to promote ma7imum air circulation.
!lace intakes as low as possible and outtakes as high as possible. This is the
best way to cycle air and remove the heat buildup caused by lights. =) s@uirrel
cage fan attached to a dryer hose makes for a good cheap ventilation system.>
Not/7 I6 !ro$ )i!"ts "/at is a 8ajor conc/rnC ,ou 8i!"t $ant to consid/r c"/c9in!
out Coo)tub/s.
+o$ Muc" </nti)ation Is N//d/d In a Gro$ 2oo8
&ach fan has a rating that tells you how many cubic feet of air per minute =+:.>
it will move. $hen dealing with average temperatures you will want your fan to
e7change the grow room air 4*5 times in one minute, so for a room that is /?
cubic feet, a fan that is capable of moving 61?*1?? cfm=cubic feet per minute> is
recommended. If you only want to replace depleted levels of +A1 and are
growing in a closet using fluorescents, one room change per five minutes
=divide room siBe by 5> will be ade@uate.
To calculate your room siBe, multiply $idth by ;ength by Height, this will give
you the +:. rating re@uired for one room change per minute.
)ir thats e7hausted will be replaced by fresh air, which is drawn from !assive
Intakes * located opposite the e7haust at the floor of your grow
room=recommended for closet grows> or forced in using another blower
=recommended for larger grow rooms>. :or internal circulation oscillating fans
are the most efficient devices for circulating air in a room. The gentle back and
forth sway of the fan is very beneficial for the developing plants. These fans
keep mold down. Home improvement centres carry a large array of various
types and styles of air*moving fans, there are wall*mounted styles available and
most are relatively ine7pensive.
374
0o make sure that you have a highly effective e7haust system. (ou will want to
make sure your e7haust fan is rated for high +:. under pressure. )ll fans will
have a +:. rating, this rating is how many cubic feet of atmosphere the fan
moves per minute. (our e7haust fan should be capable of evacuating your grow
room at least once every five minutes. .ultiply the width, height, and depth of
your room to determine the total cubic feet, divide this number by five and you
will have the minimum +:. fan rating needed. Af course this assumes the fan
maintains its +:. under pressure and actually performs to specifications. In
practice this doesn#t happen.
It is best to overshoot this rating as much as your budget will allow. &ven if your
fan does perform to specifications pulling more air through will help keep the
temperature of the room down and e7haust the heat from powerful fans.
-enerally s@uirrel cage and duct fans are used for e7haust systems. These fans
can be connected to / inch and 9 inch fle7ible ducting that can be used to route
the air where you want it and to pull air through a carbon filter. In addition to
your e7haust system you will need an air intake. :or many systems a passive
intake is used, simply providing a channel for fresh air to enter the grow room
to replace the air being e7hausted. :or a larger area or longer intake line you
may need an active intake. !roviding an active intake relieves pressure to allow
the e7haust and intake to share the workload of air e7change. Atherwise the
e7haust fan must provide the force re@uired to pull air into the room as well as
the force re@uired to e7haust.
To convert +:. to +.H use the following formula +:. \ ?.?4 \ 9? U +.H.
375
Bi!ur/ 1. Ban (i=in! Guid/
In a small closet where there are only a few plants you can probably create
enough air circulation ust by opening the door to look at them. )lthough it is
possible to grow healthy looking plants in poorly ventilated rooms, they would
be larger and healthier if they had a fresh supply of air coming in. If you spend
a lot of time in your growing room, your plants will grow better because they
will be using the carbon dio7ide that you are e7haling around them. It is
sometimes @uite difficult to get a fresh supply of air in to your growing room
because your room is usually hidden away in a secret corner of your house,
possibly in the attic or basement. In this case, a fan will create some movement
376
of air. It will also stimulate your plants into growing a healthier and sturdier
stalk. Aften times in an indoor environment, the stems of plants fail to become
rigid because they don#t have to cope with elements of wind and rain. To a
degree, though, this is an advantage because the plant puts most of its energy
into producing leaves and resin instead of stems.
T/8-/ratur/
+orrect temperature is e7tremely
important. +arelessness when
monitoring and maintaining
temperature levels can cost you
ounces of bud. Ideally place a
thermometer near your plants=on
the containers> and one on the wall
of your grow room. Dight
temperatures should be kept
properly to prevent stress. It is
preferable during flowering to have
a night temperature drop to
stimulate flowering hormones and
reduce stem elongation. 'emember
that you always measure the
temperature in the shade, and not
in direct light.
Temperatures should be between
5?*3?Y:=16*19.9Y+> when the light
is on. $hen the light is off the
temperature can drop to the low
9?#sY:=65Y+> and have no negative
effect on the plant. The temperature should never go below 9?Y:=65Y+> or
above <?Y:=41.1Y+> =even for short periods> or growth will slow down. If these
e7tremes are e7ceeded the plant may be permanently damaged or killed. (our
goal is to try and keep your grow area temperature around 5?*3?Y:=16*19.9Y+>,
as this is the ideal growing temperature that mariuana plants thrive in. &ither
377
too hot or too cold and your plant#s growth will be stunted. If it is too cold then
crank up the heating, if it is too hot then open a window and use the above
mentioned methods such as fansFventilation systems to cycle in fresh new air.
Eeep daytime temps below 35Y:=1<./Y+>, ideally about 55Y:=14.3Y+>. Dighttime
temperature should drop a little to about 93*51Y:=1?*11.1Y+>. If larger
temperature drops are a problem, run your vent fan all night or intermittently
throughout the night to e7pel moist air. If you don#t have to run your vent fan all
night, don#t allow it to come on until about T hour after the light so that the
plants can absorb all the +A1 they released at night. This will accelerate growth
a bit.
In some situations, a heater or air conditioner may be re@uired to keep
temperature levels in check.
'aising temperatures will cause faster photosynthetic processes=to a point>.
However, temps above 51Y:=11.1Y+> will also cause the unwanted stretch,
which significantly lowers productivity later down the track. If you are growing a
seedling for the purpose of checking the se7, it will however be a good thing to
keep the temperature up a bit. Hut make sure you do not burn the plants in the
process =and you probably will if you go over 31Y:=13Y+>>. It is preferable
during flowering to have a night temperature drop of 6?*1?Y:=*61.1 to *9.9Y+>
to stimulate flowering hormones and reduce stem elongation.
+u8idit,
;ow humidity causes stress on plants. Eeep humidity levels at 5?*9?P humidity
until the final 1 weeks of flowering. )t this point, the humidity should be
lowered as much as possible to encourage the plant to seal and protect itself
with additional resin=some growers are able to get the humidity to go as low as
41P>. GtiliBing this method you can be sure to frost your buds up considerably
this way. The higher humidity levels prior to final ripening reduce salt levels
within the plant tissue and encourage healthy, more lush growth.
378
If the temperature in your grow room raises too much, the humidity will
increase and the plants are susceptible to mold. The lower the temperature the
less moisture the air can hold. $hen temperature drops, humidity rises. It really
is that simple. ;ow humidity cause stress on plants. ;ow humidity causes stress
on plants. Humidity should be between /?*9? percent relative humidity=rH>.
Humidity is simply the amount of water in the air. This is the range that
mariuana grows best in. Gse a hygrometer to measure humidity if you think
your grow area is out of range. ) humidifier can increase humidity and a
dehumidifier can be used to lower humidity. (ou can also use fresh air to
regulate humidity levels as well. To measure humidity you will want to use a
Hygrometer=an e7tremely important essential instrument for your grow room>.
This will save you plenty of money and frustration from fungi destroying your
plants. 0ome hygrometers have built in thermometers to measure the
temperature.
379
Ideally you will want rH=relative humidity> to be kept at [5?P during flowering
and at appro7imately 9?*95P during vegetative growth.
Incr/asin! +u8idit,7 To increase the humidity in the air, simply spray the air
with a spray bottle, or you can let a bucket of water evaporate in the room
=place it near your lights>. Ane of the survival adaptations the cannabis plant
has when grown in a dry climate is that it will actually increase the resin all over
the plant in order to keep it from drying out. This is why it is important to
maintain proper atmospheric humidity levels in your grow room to ensure
potent bud.
D/cr/asin! +u8idit,7 Humidity can be reduced in three ways.
D/"u8idi6i/r:AC7 this is the best option as it#s completely controllable.
The downside is that dehumidifer#s create heat, use lots of electricity,
and take up space.
D/siccants7 these are hygroscopic substances that absorb water. :or
your purposes, a desiccant will be absorbing the humidity in the air.
8esiccants are a poor choice because they need to be replaced often
and the rate of absorption is only a function of e7posed surface area of
the desiccant rendering the use of desiccants in the growroom largely
uncontrollable. $hile desiccants are cheap initially, repeated usage and
purchases will eventually become e7pensive. 0ilica gel, calcium sulfate,
and montmorillonite clay are commonly used desiccants.
Air Mo0/8/nt:</nti)ation7 )ir movement is a great choice to reduce
humidity especially if the relative humidity outside your growroom is low.
If this is the case, adding active intake and e7haust=if you do not already
have this> will reduce your humidity relatively cheaply and effectively. In
addition, most growers must use ventilation irregardless of 'H issues to
control temperatures. The only downside to ventilation occurs in sealed
environments where direct ventilation is not feasible because of the use
of co1 enrichment.
380
M/asurin! +u8idit,
To measure these levels, be sure to keep a hygrometer and a thermometer in
the the drying area very close to the plants. ) hygrometer allows you to keep
tabs on the relative humidity level in the room and a thermometer will display
the temperature. 0ome hygrometers have built in thermometers so you can
measure both temperature and humidity at the same time.
8epending on the time of year and your current location, a heater or an air
conditioner might be necessary to adust the temperature. To control the
humidity levels a dehumidifier can lower the humidity and a humidifier can be
used to raise it. There are two types of humidifiers K warm mist and cool mist.
) warm mist humidifier raised the temperature while a cool mist humidifier
doesn#t affect the temperature at all. There are also humidifiers that allow you
to switch between a warm or cool mist. If you#re going to purchase a humidifier,
be sure to take your climate into consideration and then go ahead and buy an
appropriate humidifier to suit your individual needs.
381
$arm mist actually heats up the water and releases warm humidity. +ool mist
water isn#t cooled, it ust means that water is not heated. In most cases a cool
mist works best. If you#re not sure and want to be safe then go ahead and grab
a humidifier that lets you switch between warm and cool mist.
Your Gro$ 2oo8 C"/c9)ists
B/ sur/ to -rint t"/ 6o))o$in! c"/c9)ists out >and 6o))o$ t"/8? to
/nsur/ a succ/ss6u)C abundantC "/a)t", "ar0/st1
382
Dai), Gro$ 2oo8 C"/c9)ist7
i!"t
` a +heck all your lights, timers, and power. .ake sure everything is working
properly and safely.
` a .ake sure your bulbs are burning bright and do not need to be changed
out=every /*9 months is best>. +heck to see if your bulbs and hoods are clean
and clean them accordingly.
` a +heck your light#s distance from your plants so they are getting proper
amounts of light but not getting burned.
` a .ake sure all electrical cords are all plugged in completely.
'at/r
` a +heck your hydroponic system=if using> to ensure the pumps are working
and your plants are being fed. +heck timers and powerheads.
` a +heck the H1A levels in the reservoirs. H1A evaporates, not the nutrients.
To maintain a consistent mi7 add only H1A.
` a +ompletely change out water and nutrients every 1 weeks"
-+ )/0/)s
` a +heck pH levels in the reservoirFnutrient solution, making sure it is as close
to 9.? as possible.
` a .onitor the &+=or ppm in Dorth )merica>, aka the strength of your nutrient
solution to make sure it is correct.
T/8-/ratur/
` a Eeep daytime temps at 55Y:=14.3Y+>. Dighttime temperature should stay
between about 93*51Y:=1?*11.1Y+>. Too cold or too hot can severely stunt
growth, or even kill your plants" Eeep these ranges will ensure your fastest,
most abundant growth with the least problems. )t night your temperature can
ideally drop by 65Y:=*65Y+>, and even up to 6?Y:=*61.1Y+>. HGT DA .A'&
TH)D 6?Y:=*61.1Y+>, &2&'" This will slow your growth greatly. 0o daytime keep
the temperature 5?*55Y:=16*14.3Y+>, and at night 9?*5?Y:=65.5*1<Y+>.
Air
` a )irflow. .ake sure all fans are working correctly and air is being pulled
properly.
` a +A1Fother. .ake sure your system is running properly at the proper
environmental levels, regulate if needed.
` a +heck any air freshenersFodor elimination systems.
383
+u8idit,
` a Too much humidity causes moldy bud rot" Eeep it at /?*5?P
Circu)ation
` a .ake sure the plants are moving a little bit and getting a nice oscillating
breeBe.
Ot"/r
` a If growing in soil, rotate=turn> your plants each day. This will ensure they
get ma7imum light e7posure. )lso check for dry pockets and water accordingly.
` a +heck for pests and fungus or any other plant diseasesFabnormalities and
handle accordingly. +heck the the leaves surface as well" &specially check for
spider mites under your leaves. These will make little webs.
` a +leanup your grow area" 'emember, act as if you were manufacturing
microchips in there.
` a .ake sure everything is working.
384
Your '//9), Gro$ 2oo8 C"/c9)ist7
=Including everything you should be doing daily>
` a .ake a supplies list so you never run out of important supplies.
` a :ill your reservoirs=filling may need to be done more than once a week>.
` a )ir 2entilationF+irculation.
` a +heck soil for dry pockets, water as needed.
` a 'otate =turn> plants.
` a +heck pH.
` a +heck for fungi, nutrient deficincies, and other plant problems=especially
spider mites under leaves>.
` a +heck grow area for mold.
` a +lean"
Your Mont"), Gro$ 2oo8 C"/c9)ist7
=Ance a month schedule a thorough cleaning. This is the time when you should
clean up and steriliBe your e@uipment and grow room.>
` a 2acuum
` a ArganiBe and clean your room, pick up any loose tools or anything else
` a +lean your trays, pots, etc to avoid nutrient buildup
` a +hange reservoir formula
` a :lush your moms with a gallon of plain water
` a 8ust light covers
385
Ad0anc/d Gro$ (/tu-s
0o now that you have a good handle on the foundational critical elements
re@uired when growing mariuana I would now like to show some MadvancedN
grow setups I have discovered for improving your plant#s yield and @uality.
In order to achieve this, our primary obective is to implement advanced
growing methods that allow us to grow really really big top colas=a cola is a
group of buds>. The basis of this theory is that the bottom branches of an
indoor cannabis plant do not absorb much light from the HI8, L they#re also a
crappy smoke primarily due to them being fan leaves. 0o with the methods
below this allows us to focus on ma7imiBing the growth of the top part of the
plant. The top cola is the part of the plant that produces the most bud, so here
386
we are going to use the following methods to get that part of the plant to grow
really big.
How far you take the below methods are completely up to you. $e have seen
some growers fill entire grow rooms with these advanced growing methods
outlined below. Huild your own garden to satisfy your heart#s desire and to
accomplish all your mariuana growing goals and dreams.
(/a o6 Gr//n >(OG?
0ea of -reen =0A->, originally developed in Holland, is the method of harvesting
lots of small plants, matured early to get the fastest production of buds
available. It is a techni@ue whereby you grow a far greater number of smaller
plants rather than a small number of large plants. Gsually clones are used for
uniform growth characteristics and each plant is trimmed so that only the main
stalk grows. The sea of green method was developed to ma7imiBe the speed of
cannabis growing in limited height situations. In a typical sea of green setup of
this type, clones are planted at densities as high as < per s@. ft. Instead of
387
growing a few plants for a longer period of time in the same space, many
smaller plants are grown that mature faster and in less time. Thus, less time is
re@uired between crops.
Bi!ur/ 1. T"/ ar!/ To- Co)a 3 a (OG Gro$/rs Goa).
Ane crop can be started while another is maturing, and a continuous harvest,
year round can be maintained. / plants per s@uare foot will be a good start for
seedlings. 6 plant per s@uare foot will allow plenty of room for each plant to
grow a large top cola, but will not allow for much bottom branching. This is AE
since indoors these bottom branches are always shaded anyway, and will not
grow very well unless given additional light and space. The indoor grower
@uickly realiBes that plants that are too tall do not produce enough at the
bottom to make the e7tra growing time used worthwhile. )n e7ception to this
rule would be if it is intended the plants are to go outside at some point, and it
is e7pected that the lightFshading issue will not be a factor at that point.
388
The plants, if started at the same time, should create what is called a Qgreen
canopyQ that traps most of the light at the top level of the plants. ;ittle light will
penetrate below this level, since the plants are so close together. The gardener
is attempting to concentrate on the top of the plant, and use the light and space
to the best advantage, in as little time as possible. Gse of nylon poultry fence or
similar trellising laid out over the green canopy will support the plants as they
start to droop under the weight of heavy fruiting tops. 0takes can be used too,
but are not as easy to install for plants in the middle and back of the room,
where reach is more difficult. It#s easy to want big plants, since they will
produce more yield per plant, but it#s usually better with limited space to grow
smaller plants that mature faster and pack into smaller spaces.
389
Instead of fitting / large plants in that small room, you can fit 61 small ones on
a shelf above 61 other small plants. These plants take only [4 months to
mature from germination to ripe buds, and harvesting takes place constantly,
since there is both a vegetative and flowering area devoted to each, with
harvests every /5*9? days. It#s not the siBe of the plant, but the maturity and
@uality of the product that counts. Twice as many plants grown half as big will
fill the grow space twice as fast, so harvests take place almost twice as often.
(ou#ll need to get good at picking early flowering plants, and propagate only
those that are of the best @uality. 9Q s@uare containers will allow for / plants per
s@uare foot. (ou may also gauge by the siBe of your growing tray=for passive
hydroponics>.
!lanted / per s@uare foot, =for vegetative seedlings> a 61 s@. ft. closet will hold
/3 seedlings on one shelf. :or e7ample you can use /Q rockwool cubes that fit
into catbo7es c 61 cubes per bo7. (ou can get 5 bo7es onto a 61 s@. ft. closet
upper shelf, so that is 9? seedlings on one small shelf"
390
:or flowering indoors, 6 plant per s@. ft. is a good rule of thumb for 0A-. If less
plants are grown in this siBe space, it will take them longer to fill the space, thus
more electricity and time will be used to create the same amount of product. If
more than one plant per s@uare foot is attempted, the grower will soon find that
plants crowded tend to be more stem than bud, and the total harvest may be
reduced, so be cautious.
)lso, QtrainingQ plants with twist*ties is a great way to get them to bush out a
bit. %ust take any type of plastic or paper twist tie and wrap it around the top of
the plant, then pull it over until the top is bent over <?*63? degrees and then
attach this to the main stem lower on the plant. 8o this for one week and then
release the plant from it#s bond. The plant can be trained in this fashion to take
less vertical space and to grow bushier, to fill the grow space and force lower
limbs to grow upward and oin the green canopy. This techni@ue takes
advantage of the fact that if the top is pulled over, it creates a hormonal
condition in the plant that makes it bush out at all lower internodes. 0ea of
-reen entails growing to harvest the main cola =top> of the plant. Hottom
branches are trimmed to increase air flow under the QblanketQ of growing tops.
Gse these cuttings for clones, as they are the easiest part of the plant to root.
It#s also the fastest part of the plant to regenerate after flowering has occurred.
'"at "a--/ns to t"/ -)ant/d c)on/@
The clone could ust sit there, stretch a bit under the light regime, and flower,
producing a tiny little bud with a couple of seeds. Hut that rarely, if ever,
happens. Instead the clone takes off in a rush of growth, forming a woody main
stem and branches. If the plant is suitable for sea of green growing, it will stop
short of the lights and flower. .ost indica dominated plants stop short enough
to be grown using this method. That process is at the heart of the sea of green
method, as it results in the smallest possible plant flowering in the @uickest
possible time.
Not/7 (OG -)ants ar/ r/a)), just Van a--)/ on a stic9CV t"at isC t"/ 8ain co)aC and
-/r"a-s a sid/ bud or t$oC ar/ cu)ti0at/d.
391
This image is of a standard 0A- growO

Bi!ur/ 1. G/n/ric (OG Gro$.
Conc)usion7 The 0ea of -reen method was developed to ma7imiBe the speed
of cannabis growing in limited height situations. (ou wont get that much
mariuana out of each plant. The 0A- grow is one which presupposes mother
selection, and is not suited for seed grows since height variations, and variation
in general will be detrimental to yields. Ideal strains for 0A- setups are top*
cola*dominant strains that do not have heavy side branching and tend to
dedicate most of their energy to a top shoot. Heavy branching will end up
interfering with the neighboring plant, and ultimately, will effect and reduce your
yield amount. In order to avoid this, you must use clones from a mother plant
that has proven to produce uniform cuttings and whose growth pattern is
optimal for a 0A- environment. In other words, a 0A- setup is not something
392
you can pull off on your first time around with seeds. 0elect a mother carefully,
and your 0A- will do 2&'( $&;; this way.
(cr//n o6 Gr//n >(C2OG?
0crA- is like a 0A- grow e7cept that fewer plants are used in conunction with
a screen to fill the grow area with heavy top colas, hence its nameJ 0crA- or
0creen of -reen. The screen is simply a large wire mesh placed between your
light and the plants. )gain, clones from a female plant are used, but we allow at
least one s@uare foot per flowering plant in the 0crA- method. The plants arent
flowered until they have covered the entire mesh with green. )s the plants grow
up through the wire mesh theyre trained and worked around the netting to
form a very even canopy. The top colas and side branches are all trained under
the screen.
393
(ou can use 1N chicken wire or 1N nylon poultry fencing for the screen.
!lacement of the screen depends on the siBe of the light you are using. The
height placement can range from 3N to 1/N. The light needs to be hung by
chains so it is adustable.
The plants then are not flowered until they have covered the entire mesh with
green. )s the plants grow up through the wire mesh from their tray they are
trained and strategically worked around the netting to form a very even canopy
until they are 1 weeks into the :lowering cycle. The top colas and side branches
are all trained below the mesh. This setup using HI8 lighting seriously pushes
your buds to the limit. I have seen other growers grow top colas the siBe of
large 6 ;iter soda bottles"
394
)fter 1 weeks into the :lowering cycle, allow the tops to grow vertically through
the mesh screen. )s the tops grow vertically, make sure to push away the fan
leaves down under the mesh. This allows light to reach the developing bud
sites. If your leaf growth is dense, cut the finger in half making a shorter leaf
and allowing light to reach the bud site. 8A DAT :G;;( +GT TH& ;&)2&0,
leaving half the leaf on the plant allows it to still absorb light and make energy
for the plant to grow and flower at it#s ma7imum potential. If you remove an
entire fan leaf right away you can severely stunt your plant#s growth. Dow you
should be at the e7citing stage of growth when the flowers are forming and
growing vertically, creating a canopy of bud above the screen, or in other words,
a 0creen of -reen. Dow it#s time for some maintenance. Head below the screen
and remove all the lateral branches=hopefully not many"> and stray bud sites.
The canopy should be so thick at this point that it blocks most, if not all, the
light from reaching the lower growth. The lower growth is only leeching your
plant#s precious energy from the buds growing above=getting lots of light>. The
goal here is to get all the plant#s grow energy concentrated on developing the
flowers above the canopy for .)00I2& yields and .)\I.G. TH+ content.
There are other variations of 0creen of -reen and 0ea of -reen, but the above
is the most commonly used, and is generally the backbone to all other
variations.
) good 0creen of -reen grow will produce 1 ounces of bud per s@uare foot of
screen, possibly more" It takes the right kind of strain and environment to do
this in though so don#t be discouraged if your yields aren#t close to this, if you
have been following this guide you will be able to grow this much in no time"
The V6 strain I recommend you use for 0creen of -reen is +<<. There are other
great ones too. )im for a pure Indica or Indica dominant cross, this will grant
you the most yield in a 0ea of -reen.
395
$hen a length of poultry netting is stretched over the grow area, it eliminates
the need for conventional training. Tying, bending, and crimping are replaced by
using the netting as anchors to keep shoots in position. It can also be perfectly
shaped to make best use of the light. The netting is known as the screen, hence
the name 0creen Af -reen.
!lants are topped to promote branching, as the plants grow into the screen and
their shoot tips start to grow through the holes in the screen, they are pulled
back under the screen and guided to the ne7t hole to continue their horiBontal
growth. )ll the time maintaining the profile of the screen to ma7imiBe light use.
-rowth is very robust. $hile now getting the same light intensity as the primary
shoot tips, secondary growth seems to blossom, and from the secondary growth
comes tertiary growth, etc. )ll at the top of the canopy, and all receiving
ma7imum light intensity. How many plants are used depends on how much time
the grower wants to take to fill the screen to a point where it will be full with
buds at harvest. This will largely depend on the growth traits of the variety he
uses, but one can fill a canopy with only one plant if desired.
396
$hen flowered, only the slow growing buds are allowed to grow through the
holes in the 0crA-. The resulting harvest profile is indeed a 0ea Af -reen but
with much fewer plants and the increased yields gained from making use of the
void spaces found in a conventionally trained, non*0A- canopy.
There are many variations of the above method, yet they all utiliBe the same
principles. 0A-s and 0crA-s were originally developed to get the most out of
poor @uality fluorescent lights. The grower would line the roof of the shelf or
bo7 with fluorescent tubes to try and get the most out of their grow. Todays
growers, using good HI8 bulbs, have taken these setups to a new levelO pushing
their buds to the limit. 0ome people even grow top colas that are the siBe of
large corncobs or soda bottles"
Here is an e7ample setupJ it is like a 0A- growing, but a screen is used to train
the plant to grow horiBontally, creating a canopy of buds beneath the light. The
screen is simply made from chicken wire or nylon poultry fencing, or you can
use hooks and 1? lb. fishing line to make the net.
397
This picture shows another 0crA- variationO
The screen is installed at a fi7ed height above the plant medium. :or Indica
varieties the screen does not need to be much more than 3 inches above the
pots. Indica 0aliva hybrids need about 61 inches white 0ativa plants tend to
have longer internodes so you may have to use a screen that is about 63 inches
above the pots. If your strain is a pure 0ativa variety, like HaBe or Thai, you may
have to raise your screen to around 1/ inches. This space allows the base of the
plant a certain amount of vertical growth before branching occurs on the clone.
The clone should start to branch ust under the screen but if it does not do not
worry because you are going to be training them anyway. The light should be
suspended by adustable chains so that it can be raised if necessary.
0crA- growing doesnt re@uire as many plants as 0A- =allow at least one
s@uare foot per flowering plant>, but takes anywhere from one to three weeks
longer per grow because we will be in the vegetative growth stage longer than
398
a 0A- grow to allow the plants to fill out. The plants are trained to grow
horiBontally under the screen until theyre two weeks into the flowering cycle, at
which point you let the tops grow vertically through the screen. (ou should
always train the main growing tops from the outside of the screen moving
inwards so that the colas are focused as closely as possible on the light
dispersed from the bulb. (ou will not be able to get all of them centered under
the light, but you should aim for this shape. )s the tops grow vertically, push
the large fan leaves down under the screen, allowing the light to get to all the
developing bud sites.
If leaf growth is e7cessive, you can first cut fan leaves in half making a shorter
leaf and allowing light to get to the bud site. ;eaving half the leaf on the plant
still allows it to make energy for the plant to grow. Taking a whole fan leaf away
in one go can stunt growth. In about a week, you can take off the rest of the
leaf. 0ome people dont remove the leaf at all, but I do it to help with air
movement, reduce the chance of mold or fungus and to allow more light to
penetrate the bud sites. %ust remember to remove a little at a time if you do
remove leaf mass.
399
)t this point flowers are forming and growing vertically, creating a carpet of bud
above the screen. Dow we go below the screen and remove all the lateral
branches and stray bud sites. The canopy has thickened enough that light is
blocked from reaching this lower growth. Its only diverting your plants energy
away from the buds. (ou can remove all branches that havent made it to the
screen and the stray bud sites but you may e7perience stunting. )lthough you
want the plant to concentrate all of it#s grow energy on the developing flowers
above the canopy, removing too much leaf mass and branching can prevent
additional flowering.
The three main differences between a 0A- and 0crA- grow are the number of
plants grown, the use of a screen and the slightly longer grow cycle of the
0crA-. Hoth methods can be done under the same light and in soil or with
hydroponics. There are many variations of the 0crA- grow including 2*0crA-,
0tadium 0crA-, :lat 0crA- and +ylinder 0crA- but they are all based on the
400
same principles. They work essentially the same way but use different shapes.
Ane of the best strains available for your 0crA- garden is +<<. (ou will find that
a pure Indica or Indica dominant cross will produce the best in a 0crA- grow. )
good 0crA- grow will average two ounces of bud per s@uare foot of screen, but
you cant e7pect this the first few grows, because it takes proper timing and the
correct strain to accomplish this.
0crA- was originally designed for grow areas limited in height and lit by fluo*
rescents. Todays growers are using HI8 lights for growing 0crA-. Theyve
taken it to the ne7t level with these lights and are generating far greater results.
Todays grower is always trying something new to improve the production of
their favorite plant. $ith e7perience, practice and e7perimentation, you too can
create your own customiBed grow.
Not/s on (OG and (crOG Gro$in!
Dow that you have a firm grasp on what 0ea of -reen is and how to get a
started, let#s go into more final details...
(-acin!7 0pacing is the most controversial subect when it comes to 0A-. It is
also one of the most important factors in determining yield amount. It#s @uite
tricky and there isn#t one single rule to follow. (our 0A-#s spacing is ultimately
determined by the clones you have selected for your grow. 0pecifically their
growth pattern. If your clones grow straight up when flowering is initiated,
concentrating all of their energy on a top cola, you can position your cuttings
between / per s@. foot and 4 per s@. foot, and veg for between / days and 5
days. An the other hand if your clones happen to branch out a bit, or they
demonstrate having an uneven growth pattern, then you should probably stick
to a 0+'A- grow, but otherwise space your cuttings further apart, and veg for
longer. Hut keep in mind this defeats the purpose of a 0A- grow entirely.
8ue to the plants being spaced so closely together, any heavy branching and
large shade*producing leaves will interfere with the other plants light. $eak
cuttings which do not grow as vigorously as others cause this by lagging below
the canopy when the others take off after you switch the light back to 61F61. In
401
order to prevent this all too common problem, you should take a few more
cuttings than you need, and be sure to only use the most healthy, fastest
rooting clones in your grow chamber.
)lso any cuttings that are growing too fast should also be removed from the
garden. This is because they will outgrow the others and cause the same e7act
problem. Ance plants become blocked from the light, their growth will be
stunted indefinitely.
Eeep in mind choosing uniformly healthy clones is not the only factor. 0ome
mother plants will produce clones that ust don#t grow uniformly. This has been
reported before with c<< which is also a heavy brancher and thus not an ideal
0A- plant at all=and not to mention the fact that her tops aren#t as heavy as
others>.
Anly a couple simple tricks to avoid overcrowding e7ist and they are not that
effective at all. The only real way to prevent overcrowding is to grow a batch of
clones you at medium density of 1 * 4 per s@uare foot to udge how they
perform=that is if you are not already e7perienced with cuttings from the same
mother plant>. That is why it is a good idea to keep more than one seed parent
as a mother until you know which one has the superior cuttings. 0ometimes
seedlings that seem perfect for one type of setup go @uite wrong in the cutting
stage.
If overcrowding does occur, here are some helpful tips and tricksO
Eeep lower branching well trimmed from day 6 of vegetative growth
until 4 weeks 61F61. It is important that you don#t trim every day, rather
every 5*5 days. This will allow the plant to fully recuperate. (ou can
refrain from trimming any branches which are not interfering with a
neighbour and are getting good light coverage. The top cola and the few
short branches below it are all that should remain. This is appro7imately
6F1* 6F4 of the plant.
402
Tuck and trim shade leaves that are obstructing neighbors and those
uicy bud sites. Try not to go bananas on the trimming" If anything, try
trimming only a few blades, or half of each blade. The leaves will still
photosynthesiBe. 0till, do not overdo it"
Install enforced chickenwire like in a 0+'A- to keep plants from leaning
on their neighbors. Hamboo poles work decently, but chicken wire will be
much more effective. It will also allow for greater overall control of your
garden#s profile. (ou can start with bamboo poles until your plant#s finish
stretching, then apply the chicken wire accordingly.
Install enforced chickenwire like in a 0+'A- to keep plants from leaning
on their neighbors. Hamboo poles work decently, but chicken wire will be
much more effective. It will also allow for greater overall control of your
garden#s profile. (ou can start with bamboo poles until your plant#s finish
stretching, then apply the chicken wire accordingly.
8on#t grow sativas in a 0A-.
If you insist on using seedlings for your 0A-, keep your spacing to 6 psf.
i!"tin!7 &ven though .H and H!0 lights can be used in conunction with
0crA- and 0A- grows, most 0crA- and 0A- growers will use H!0 because of
the short vegetative period before flowering. 0ometimes growers use smaller
wattage H!0 lights like the 15?$ and /??$ series to keep the cost of electricity
down and bud production within an acceptable range. In fact, 0crA- grows are
so dense that smaller lights are sometimes more cost*effective than lights in the
9?? to 6???$ range, but again this depends on your strain and level of
e7perience. If you get it right you can effectively direct <5P of available light
onto your bud. The end result is like a canopy of pure bud with the light belting
down on top of it all for 61 hours a day.
403
(C2OG Ad0anta!/s 6or ar!/r i!"ts7
.ore even canopy.
+an be trained into an bowl or 2*shape to match the light falloff.
.ore consistent bud siBe across your crop.
Disad0anta!/s7
;ots of work training a large screen every day.
Deed access to all corners of the garden.
.ust time the flowering switch correctly so that the screen is full and you
have enough height above the screen to make full use of your light
penetration.
(cr//n Contro)7 0ome 0crA- growers like to tie the center of the screen down
to avoid it being pushed up by the center of the bud production, which should
be the most vigorous since it is directly under the light. If the plants were to
push the screen up it would affect the overall results because the light would
not be able to reach all the bud areas. The pushing effect could also cause
stems and branches to break.
Branc" D/0/)o-8/nt7 (ou should not leave your plants growing in vegetative
growth for too long because this causes more leaf matter to develop than bud
which will make our 0A- or 0crA- grow less effective. )lso watch out that you
do not crush or pinch the stems as this will cause branches to develop at those
areas or close to them. Hranch development means that plant energy is being
used in leaf and branch promotion rather than bud production.
'/i!"t7 It is totally possible to reach around 1 oB. per ft. with a suitable plant
and enough light density. /?? watt growers have reported up to 1./ ounces per
foot in a flat scrog. In a compressed grow, using shielded lights in a bo7 of
screen, I#ve read about growers who have gotten nearly 1.9 ounces per foot,
measured by canopy area. I suspect that 55 watts per s@. ft. is about the
minimum to reach that kind of production, but I don#t know for sure.
Gnderstand, that the HI8 scrog method has not been around very long, and
results are sketchy. (our results may vary, but certainly you will do better using
404
scrog than small*scale sea of green at any light density.
("a-/7 (ou can e7periment with different shapes of 0crA- to see how it affects
your overall yield. 0ome 0crA- growers even advocate a dome shaped screen
to match the curvature of light dispersal patterns, however, the differences
between shapes in the final yields is not always significant and the overall effect
is more e7citing looking than anything else.
5)ant +/i!"t7 The worst thing you can do is to allow the plants to grow too
long. (ou would think that e7cess growth could be cut out or moved to vertical
screens, but in practice you#ll find it#s difficult to recover from a badly overgrown
screen. !lants that grow into and fill the screen seem to put on better bud
weight than overgrown plants that are tied down and whacked back to fit.
5r/Atrainin! 6or (crOG
0o you#ve decided to grow 0crA-C $ell, get used to training your plant, you will
spend a lot of time shaping and positioning for better light distribution. Ane of
the main advantages of 0crA-, is when the main growth tip is redirected
horiBontally <? degrees to the screen, it opens the main stock to more light,
which generates growth tips, and increases vigour.
(ou can give your plant a head start by pre*training the main stock horiBontally.
This has two real benefits, the main stock is not affected by the installation of
the screen =training your plant horiBontally to <? degrees, really helps when you
have a real fat stock>, and the growth tips start growingFstretching upwards so
they are very close to, or are penetrating the screen when the screen is installed
=normally the growth tips wouldn#t start to stretch up until the initial main
growth tip was trained horiBontal to the screen, this causes you to veg more
time under the screen to allow for the growth tips to penetrate>.
)ll you need is a twisty tie, a container, a sharp pointy obect, and some string.
:irst take the string and at one end make a loop, leave the other end alone for
now. De7t, take your container and pop a hole at the top of the container, then
slip the loop through the hole =0o the loop would go through the hole towards
the centre of the pot>. De7t, at one end of the twisty tie, secure your stock
405
where you want it to bend horiBontally, at the other end twisty tie around the
loop. +arefully take the string hanging out of the hole you made and pull on it,
the plant should start to bend where you have it secured at the main stock. !ull
the string till you have your desired angle then tie a knot that won#t fit through
the hole you poked in the container, and let go of the string.
2eg like this for 4*5 daysJ you should now have a pre*trained plant, ready to be
installed into the screen with ease.
Not/7 Your -)ant 8a, not b/ ab)/ to b/nd "ori=onta)), on t"/ 6irst trainC so to
-r/0/nt sna--in! t"/ st/8T train -ro!r/ssi0/),.
(C2OGGING in (oi) or +,dro-onics@
) successful 0crA- can be done using plants in pots as well as with more e7otic
hydroponic systems. Hut there are a few elements of 0crA- growing that tend
to favor an active hydroponic setup.
Ance you get past a small, flat scrog grow, it becomes very difficult to train a
more comple7 grow by reaching into the cabinet space. Dever design a 0crA-
system without the capability of rolling or sliding out the plant container and
screens as a single unit. Abviously that means that the screen should be
connected to the plant container, or possibly to a common substrate, like a
plywood base. The screen does not need to be sturdy, it#s ust a guide, so there
are many ways this could be done. Hut obviously it is much easier to slide out
an empty container than one full of water=as in 8$+> or soil.
)ctive hydroponic systems allow freshly rooted clones to have direct access to
very high levels of nutrients immediately. That may mean that active hydroponic
0crA-s will evolve @uicker than soil or 8$+ grows.
406
+,dro-onic (/a o6 Gr//n (/tu-
)n important thing to understand about creating a 0ea of -reen setup is that it
can be any siBe, it#s only the shape that must remain a constant. The highest
yielding, easiest to maintain 0A- garden is a simple slated &bbL:lo tray.
The tray is simply a /Q deep plastic tray of varying siBes with 6Q deep grooves on
the bottom for root growth. There is also two holes on the far end which hold
the tube from the water pump =which administers the nutrient solution from the
reservoir>, and the siphon valve which drains the water back into the reservoir
once the water level reaches a certain mark during flood time.
De7t, /Q rockwool cubes are placed on this tray, and a sheet of opa@ue plastic
407
=you can find these at a hydroponics shop, it is black on one side and white on
the other> is draped over top of the tray, so the cubes sit in total darkness.
$hen the cuttings have rooted in 6Q cubes, they are transplanted into the /Q
cubes by making \ shaped cuts in the plastic (ou do this so that minimal light
reaches the root area below the plastic, and roots can grow freely after they
have outgrown the cubes. 'emember that roots need moisture )D8 darkness to
thrive and grow" $ithout the plastic covering, the roots are e7posed to light,
and all the moisture from the root area is allowed to escape into the air. )lso,
without light, algae and mold growth are reduced if not retarded completely.
Eeep these essential tips in mind for all your grows. -rowth will drastically
improve if there is darkness at root level.
Dow the cuttings are then vegged until thriving growth resumes. Hamboo shafts
are inserted into the rockwool cubes through a small cut in the plastic to
support the large top colas. He sure to do this early to avoid root damage when
you ab the pole through the rockwool cube.
:lowering is induced while the plants are less than 6?Q tall so that, ideally, the
plant finishes between 1/Q and 49Q inches .)\I.G., complete with a large top
cola and minimal side branching. -olden.
The great thing about the clones is that since we took them from a mature
mother female plant, the age carries over. This means that as soon as we begin
the 61F61 lighting cycle they will immediately start to flower. I strongly
recommend you trim all of the undergrowth from your girls within the first 4
weeks of 61F61. Trimming all the side branching about 6F4 to 6F1 way up the
plant is best.
If all goes well according to plan and your mother selection was good, you will
finish your Hydroponic 0A- grow with an even canopy of buds that looks
something like a corn field massive bud canopy=or in other words a 0ea of
-reen J>, and yields up to 1 pounds per 6???$ light""=when growing conditions
are optimal>. 0ince you are only using clones in the setup, all you have to do is
grow them out for the remainder of their :lowering phase. This allows you to
have a massive bud @uantity yield turnover every 1 months.
408
EDui-8/nt7 -ood @uality &bbL:lo systems are available from many different
outlets, but don#t even bother. They usually tend to be way too e7pensive and
more complicated than they should be. :or a 6???$ &bbL:lo system =ebbLflo
system only, not lights, etc> you should pay no more than X/?? G08. (ou can
ind lots of ebbL:lo systems in the marketplace today for like X3?? G08 and
most of them either ust plain suck, or are not nearly as productive as the tray.
This system is so simple"

Here is a list of all the e@uipment you will needO
) simple &bbL:lo tray=a plastic, black 5Q deep unit of varying shapes and
siBes. It should also have 6Q deep slats that accommodate root growth as
mentioned before>.
)n appropriate*siBed length of plastic tubing=this will act as your syphon
valve>.
) water pump, and digital timer=to flood your table with>.
6Q and /Q 'ockwool +ubes.
) sheet of opa@ue plastic=described above>.
)n airstone of appropriate siBe.
) 61 gallon reservoir per /#\/# table.
2unnin! Your (,st/87 In order to operate your 0A- system, simply
transplant your cuttings after they root as per directed, set your digital timer to
run your waterpump once a day=appro7imately T hour after the light comes on
* once a day in /Q cubes is fine when they#re young>. The water should reach
appro7imately 1F4 up the cube before the syphon valve begins to drain
completely. )nother two minutes of flood time should suffice, then the timer can
turn off =about seven minutes total>. $hen the cuttings begin to grow more
vigorously, and have grown to 9Q or more, the timer can be set to flood twice
dailyJ the second time should be about three hours before the light goes off at
night =during 61F61>. Dutrient levels in the reservoir are increased from 6???&+
to 63??&+ from transplant to maturity stage, and the harvest will ultimately be
).)IID-.
409
0trains suitable for 0A- growing areO
d )fghan.
d +alifornia Arange.=$hen untopped the +A puts most of it#s
energy into growing one large, main cola and does DAT branch
out much at all.>
<A(C2OG
2*0+'A- is a version of 0crA-, where you place the screen vertically instead of
horiBontally. The principle is however the same in 2*0+'A- as in 0crA-.
Ane problem with 2*0+'A- is top dominance. Top dominance is that buds
located higher up will grow larger then buds located further down. This problem
can however be solved by sideways*upwards training of the plantJ spiral*
training. If you train the plant to vertical the top dominance will have effect, so
410
you have to be precise.
2ertical screens e7tend from the plant medium all the way up to the top of the
growing space. The light is not in a reflector at the top of the space, but is
suspended vertically in the middle of a tube of foliage. Dote that the entire light
field is used, not ust from the bottom half of the lamp and what comes off the
reflector. The foliage area is stunning. Imagine a 1 7 1 cabinet with a v*scrog
screen held /Q from the walls, with a gap in the front screen for maintenance.
0uppose the buds fill up about 4# of the vertical screen. $e#re talking / screens,
each /# in area =69Q 7 49Q>. Take off a couple of inches for corner overlap and a
gap in the front for access, and that#s nearly 6/ s@. ft. of screen in the same
space that supports /# of flat screen. &ven if the production per foot were half,
and it would be less due to the loss of the 48 flat scrog field, you#re still talking
4 ounces per foot"
&ven if production isn#t dramatically better than horiBontal methods, v*scrog is a
promising solution to growing in very restricted height conditions. It might be
possible to grow a productive crop in as little as 1#, maybe less. 0ince the light*
to*foliage gap is horiBontal, the only absolute vertical needs are for the plant
container and a gap between the end of the downward*pointing bulb and the
planting medium. !lant growth could be controlled by training it across the
vertical screen, which could be any reasonable height.
Bo4 o6 Gr//n>BOG?
;ots of enthusiastic growers have been super e7cited about the 0crA- method
and have created up all sorts of ways to e7pand production. Ane of the coolest
most noteworthy common variation is known as the Ho7 of -reen=HA->
method.
)dded to the horiBontal screen are vertical screens around the perimeter. &ither
additional plants are used at the edges, or the 0crA- field plants are grown
longer, but either way, the additional foliage is allowed to grow up the outside of
the vertical screen, taking advantage of wasted air space above the field. It also
allows plants at the edge of the field to get into the circle of intensity from the
bulb.
411
Imagine the light field as a circle sitting tangent to a horiBontal line. Imagine
your plant as a point on the line outside of the circle. How can the plant get
inside the circleC Hy going up. (ou might e@uate this method to an QarenaQ grow
in this regard. This method allows all the screen area to be densely filled with
bud sites.
There are two ways to fill the vertical HA- screens. The first is to use more
plants, which are added to the edges of the grow. $hen the horiBontal 0crA-
field plants are forced to flower, the plants on the edge are allowed to grow
vertically like sea of green plants, the resulting growth being trained to the
vertical screens. If the growth is too tall for the screens, it can be laid down at
an angle. The advantage of this type of HA- grow is reliability and speed, since
the horiBontal field is filled in e7actly the same manner as in a normal scrog
grow. The disadvantage is that the number of plants is increased to near
plantlet*method 0ea of -reen levels.
The second method is use the same number of plants as in a standard scrog
grow, or thereabouts, but to allow them to grow longer before forcing, around
another two weeks of growth seems to be about right. This process is a bit
tricky, but other growers are having success, and the method is superior in
theory.
The @uickest and most successful approach to train a bog grow is to lower the
horiBontal screen to within 9Q of the soil and grow 1 plants per s@. ft. straight up
to the vertical training screens. )s it#s a bo7 driven by a 5?*watt bulb, the height
from the horiBontal screen to the roof is only 61Q. The plants grow unhindered
63Q from the soil up through a narrow band of the horiBontal screen and onto
the verticals until they touch the roof. Then they are laid down horiBontally and
trained in a spiral fashion around the vertical training screens=0HA->. The
cabinet is smallJ spiral training is the only way to direct the shoots so it ust
happens.
The spiral training can go one of two ways. The entire plant can be bent over in
one direction and trained along with the rest of the plants in a clockwise or
counter*clockwise fashion around the vertical training screens. Ar the plant can
be trained as it naturally branched, trained in opposite directions along the
412
vertical training screens.
)ny method of growing should be analyBed not only for production over the
space used, but also for production over time. %ust for the sake of argument,
let#s suppose a plantlet*method sea of green method produces 6 ounce per ft.,
and the subect plant takes 9? days to complete its life cycle. That would be .
?65 oB. per ft.Fday.
;et#s suppose a 0crA- grow takes two weeks longer, 5/ days, and produces 6
6F1 oB. That would be .?1? oB. per ftFday, advantage 0crA-. ;et#s suppose than
an e7tended HA- grow takes two more weeks than a 0crA- grow, 33 days, and
produces 1 oB. That would be .?14 oB. per ft. day., advantage e7tended HA-.
Dote that it#s possible to shorten the cycle by growing plants in a separate area
for about three weeks and then adding them to the scrog setup. Hut most micro
and mini growers don#t have room for a separate growing area.
Hollow screen forms do not have to be in the shape of s@uare*cornered bo7es.
I#ve seen online one grower using small H!0 lights who shaped his screen into a
deep bowl shape, with the light suspended in the middle. 0ome have utiliBed
inverted 2 shapes. ) single QcorrectQ way to do this probably doesn#t e7ist.
:or those new to the scrog methodO get a few fast, flat scrog grows under your
belt first to get used to the process. Hut do add the vertical screens regardless,
and capture whatever e7cess growth you can on the verticals, as there is no
reason not to handle as much growth as you can.
413
;un!)/ o6 Gr//n>;OG?
M%oggingN, also known as the %ungle of -reen or %A- techni@ue is a useful way
to ma7imiBe the yield from your crop. It is very effective in a low or confined
grow space.
$ith the %A- techni@ue you will use wires shaped into QGQ#s to hold down the
stem into the desired positions as you gradually shape it around the perimeter
of the pot. The goal is to make the plant entirely fill the pots space with top
buds. Do matter how much training you do a plant will have a genetic ma7imum
bud capacity that can not be e7ceeded. Training will help you reach that
potential.
>To 6ind out 8or/ about trainin! -)/as/ r/0i/$ t"/ Trainin! -ortion o6
t"is /Boo9.?
414
(/ttin! U- a (crOG Cabin/t
0ome growers can grow in a 6?# room under 6??? watt lights, but many can#t
devote that much space and effort to pot growing. :or those interested in some
real production=T pound to a pound or more every crop> here#s how to do it
easily in 1*/# of wall space.
415
Your (-ac/7 0tart with a wall. (ou need airflow through the cabinet, so an
outside wall is best. (ou need to be able to get air into the cabinet, so if you can
punch holes through the wall with a hole saw, all the better. (ou need to get air
out of the cabinet as well, so if the eave F soffit line is accessible, that#s a great
place to dump air.
It helps if the cabinet is not the only thing on the wall. ) wall of cabinets, with
your cannabis factory ust being one of the bunch, is perfectJ hidden in plain
sight. Hut a couple of cabinets standing by themselves will not look out of place
in a garage or storage room, particularly if they are surrounded by tool racks
and other normal clutter of a working space.
&ach cabinet takes up 1# of wall space. $hy 1# and not some other dimensionC
Hecause the engine of this factory will be the 15? watt H!0, and that is a light
that can best handle a space about 1# s@uare, 1 6F1# tops. :urther, standard siBe
storage containers, which are used for growing and for reservoirs in this system,
fit right snuggly into a 1# interior space.
Cabin/ts and Uti)iti/s7 The incoming power source should be on a -:+I
circuit. If you wire up wall sockets around the cabinet, only the first one need
be a -:+I. )ll the other power outlets can take off from the first -:+I circuit.
Dever gang up -:+I circuits. If you are using power cords, buy a -:+I stub
cord and put it in the main line. Transformers, motors, submerged pumps, HI8
lightsJ a recipe for fire or shock.
&ach cabinet system occupies a footprint of ust about 1# s@uare. ) standard
floor to ceiling height of most finished spaces is 3#, which is ust right for this
setup. !lywood is great for the walls, as insulation is not necessary, and the
thinner the walls, the more room for buds. (ou can design hollow spaces in the
cabinet walls to carry electric power if you like. (ou might run a power supply
wire into the hollow walls of the cabinets and install standard wall switches and
outlets to supply power to the various systems.
(ou can supply electricity with cords snaked up through the floor or from a
nearby wall plug, so long as the wire is sufficiently thickJ at least the same
gauge as the wall supply, and you will need at least a 65 amp circuit with little
416
or nothing else on the line like maybe a garage light>.
The doors need to fit nearly airtight, but not perfect, as the fan blowing air out
of the space creates a slight vacuum that sucks the door in. It would be better
to create an overpressure in the space, but that complicates sealing the doors
@uite a bit, so the ventilation fans suck air out of the cabinets rather than
blowing in. (ou can seal the door in your unit with foam weatherstripping, using
strips of 6 7 1 boards to frame the opening and mounting the foam along the 6
7 1#s. The board strips can be mounted on the interior walls so that the foam
stands slightly QproudQ of the outside of the cabinet, allowing the door to crush
the foam slightly as a seal. The foam also effectively seals the light inside the
cabinets. (ou can stand ne7t to the cabinets in the pitch black darkness and see
no light.
T"/ a,out7 :ocus on a single cabinet, taking up 1# s@uare of space, 3# tall.
(ou#ll need three separate compartments in the cabinet, each with its own door
to allow working in one compartment without blowing a dark period in another.
The top compartment is for flowering, and should be /# tall. $hy on top and not
in the middleC The heat will be generated by a 15? watt H!0 light in the top of
the cabinet, and that heat needs to be removed. If the light was up against the
floor of an upper cabinet, it could roast the roots of the plants above. Heat
rises, so put the biggest heat source as high as possible.
$hy should the flowering cabinet be /# tallC Hecause if you follow these plans,
the relationship between the height of the container, the stem length to the
scrog canopy, the thickness of the 0crA- canopy, the distance between the
lights and the canopy and the thickness of the light hood fits almost ideally in a
/# tall space. It would be difficult, in fact, to change the relationship between
the elements of the scrog system with a 15? H!0 light. /# is not the minimum
space re@uiredJ you can get by with //Q in one cabinet be stealing an inch or
two from the stem length and the light gap. Hut more than /# is probably
wasted.
De7t is a mother compartment, to be lit by a single 5? watt H!0 bulb. (ou can
maintain 3 mothers under the one small bulb, more than ade@uate. The 5? H!0
runs very cool, but even so, this mother space needs to be ventilated.
417
The height of the mother cabinet is negotiable. :irst subtract /# for the flowering
cabinet=no less than //Q>. Then figure the space needed for the reservoir on the
bottom. Include some air space above the reservoir for access to mechanicals.
The leftover height goes to the mothers. They don#t need much. !robably the
minimum height would be 1# or so.
+loning can also be handled in the mother compartment by installing a small
shelf on the upper part of the wallJ nice and warm up there, good for rooting.
(ou could mount a 1? watt stick fluorescent above the cloning shelf. It#ll work
AE ust with the side*lit H!0. +loning only happens every two months, so the
shelf could even be made to fold up against the wall when not in use, allowing
more space underneath for another couple of Honsai .others.
:inally, heat rises, so the lowest compartment holds the reservoir. )n 66 gallon
'ubbermaid storage container is the perfect siBe.
There you have it, an integrated system of mothers, clones and flowering
plants, all in a 1# footprint. (ou can get about 1 ounces per foot of 0crA-
canopy with a 15? H!0, so we#re talking 6F1 pound per crop here on a good
day.
Hut, let#s take this a little further. The mothers only need to produce / clones
per crop, and are obviously capable of making many more. 0o, how about
another 1# cabinet ne7t doorC Two more /# tall flowering cabinets could easily be
supported by the mothers, and now you#re talking 6 6F1 pounds per crop. That#s
4 ounces per foot of floor space, mothers and reservoir included"
(ou can have a second cabinet, but three crops at once is more work than you
probably care for, and the electric load of the lights and fans probably is
e7cessive for a 65 watt circuit, so you#re probably better off modifying the plans
a bit and building three compartments. The bottom compartment holds a
second reservoir and pump, which allows more time between topping off than if
one reservoir was servicing the whole unit. The middle compartment is another
/# flowering cabinet, but note that it overlaps the mother cabinet ne7t door and
shares part of the wall of the upper flowering cabinet in the first stack.
+ut out a passage way in the shared wall, so that the two flowering cabinets
418
both share the same air system, a 1?? +:. 8ayton pancake mounted in the top
of the upper flowering cabinet. To help the airflow along, mount two 6?? +:.
a7ial fans in the passage way. (ou can light proof the passage way by mounting
a darkroom air grill, a special plastic baffle that allows air to pass through but
blocks light. The damn things cost a fortune, but they work well. That allows
you to flower in one cabinet while the second cabinet is working vegetatively.
Gsually the two cabinets are in flowering mode, and you#d remove the darkroom
grill to assist airflow.
That leaves 1# on top of the second cabinetJ guess what goes thereC How about
the ballasts for all the lightsC This keeps the heat from the ballasts out of the
plant spaces, and eases the load on the fans.
Hy using two flowering cabinets, you only grow about two ounces per s@uare
foot of floor space, including all reservoirs and mothers. I don#t think most room
growers include the mother area in their yield reports, so I bet this blueprint
stacks up pretty well even against the 6??? watt crowd, e7cept for the real pros
getting 4*/ ounces per foot.
</nti)ation7 If you can punch holes right through the outside wall to bring
fresh air into the space. (ou could drill two 4Q holes with a hole saw in the
bottom of the lower flowering cabinet, and install a short section of 4Q !2+ drain
pipe through the wall. An the outside of the wall mount dryer vents with the air
inlet pointed down, and a screen mounted to keep bugs out. (ou could then
paint the !2+ tube and the inside of the vents with flat black paint to limit
reflected light.
An the inside, clamp fabric shop vacuum bags over the ends of the !2+ tubes,
which protrude into the cabinet a bit for that purpose. The vacuum bags keep
the mites out.
.oving over to the first cabinet stack, the mother compartment is serviced the
same way, but you could only use one 4Q opening. )irflow from the lower
flowering cabinet ne7t door is sufficient as an inlet in the upper flowering
cabinet, but add one 4Q inlet for use in summer, when some additional cool air is
needed.
419
Gse 1?? +:. 8ayton s@uirrel cage fans both in the mother compartment and
the upper flowering compartment. If you were designing a system with three
flowering cabinets, I would use one in each. These fans are compact, easily
mounted with integral tabs flat on a wall, and they are efficient and @uiet. The
big 8ayton may be a bit of an overkill in the mother compartment, but it#s easier
on the mechanicals to use a large fan on now and then vs. a smaller fan huffing
away all the time.
+A1C There is little room for the mechanicals, the scrog blanket will already get
as thick as it can be, and the fans are on @uite a bit with the hot lights in the
enclosed space, and would blow out the +A1 regularly =every five minutes or
so>. 0o, I doubt it would be useful in this limited growing situation.
The outlet can also be a 4Q !2+ pipe punched through the wall. The inside will
protrude into the cabinet as a place for the fle7ible dryer conduit to be clamped.
The outside outlet is another dryer vent, with the flap pieces left in place to
prevent insects and debris from floating in through the outlet tube. (ou can run
the outlet right out through the eave line in the soffit, where it e7hausts into the
outdoors.
$hat if you don#t have the lu7ury of being able to tap the outside air so easilyC
$ell, you can draw air from a crawl space if there is one below the cabinet, by
running 4Q !2+ tubing up inside the cabinets to the desired compartment. If you
use 'ubbermaid 66 gallon containers mounted sideways, there will be enough
space in back to run several such conduits. The same holds true for the
outgoing air. The fan can e7haust down a 4Q !+2 pipe into the crawl space, and
fle7ible tubing can carry the air to the nearest available hidden outlet. (ou can#t
run air through tubes that are too long, or the fan won#t be able to push the air
needed.
Contro)s7 The fans need to be wired up to thermostats as controls, a
humidistat too, if you can afford it. $hen selecting a thermostat, I recommend
you avoid cheap units and get something decent.
(ou#ll want to mount the thermostats up high in the cabinet, where the buds will
be growing, as that is the airspace that is critical. -enerally a temperature of
420
5?*55Y:=16*14.3Y+> is recommended.
)ll the lights and pumps can be controlled by cheap hardware store dial timers,
which you#d plug into wall sockets you can build into the cabinet walls. Hallasts
should be by themselves in a separate compartment. That means you#d have to
run some power cords from the timers through the walls into to the ballast
cabinet, but it wouldn#t look too messyJ there would already be cords coming
from the ballasts to the light hoods.
The reservoir cabinet will have its own outlet and timer. (ou could run the
pumps for both reservoirs and the air pump from a single timer.
'at/r7 The bottom compartments should hold the reservoirs, and 66 gallon
'ubbermaid storage containers work great. They will be in the dark, but it#s not
a bad idea to wrap them in black plastic to keep all light out, which prevents the
growth of algae. +ut out a window to check for water level of course. The 3#
compartment stack re@uires a pretty hefty pump, as there is @uite a vertical
distance for the water to climb.
6F1Q drip system tubes work fine to deliver the water up into the cabinets, but
you can also use hard*wired !2+ plumbing bits and pieces, and there are
adapters to mate the two. If you use !2+, go 4F/Q to allow the water to mi7
with air on the drain leg.
The water needs to get from the plant containers back down into the reservoirs,
and gravity handles that. There are myriads of ways to plumb the system. Ane
method is to open drain holes cut into the floors of the compartments. (ou#d
use 'ubbermaid containers to grow in, and mount a cheap chrome sink drain in
the bottom of the containers. The chrome drain piece will sit in the hole in the
floor and drain into a large !2+ adapter fitting that is plumbed into the drain
system, all would be connected together and flowing back into the reservoir
below. )dd a good @uality a@uarium air pump connected to an airstone in each
reservoir.
&very couple of weeks the reservoirs need to be drained, and while you#re
plumbing away here, add a fitting to the cabinet to connect a hose, plumbed
421
into the pump outlet line. That way you can connect the hose, turn on the pump
and allow it to drain the tank to the outside. The hardware store is an endless
source of valves and connectors to fulfill any elaborate design you like, to get
water in and out of the reservoirs.
$ater is added to the reservoirs with a 6F1Q drip tubing piece connected to a
@uick connect hose coupling. The drip tube piece pokes through a hole drilled in
the container top =yes, another hole saw to buy>. :illing up is clean and easy.
Dutrient mi7es are added from a ug with a piece of the same 6F1 drip tubing
mated to the top.
i!"tin! (,st/87 The main lighting in this setup is a 15? watt H!0.
(ou can find a standard hood for sale at the local growstore ust about 1# long, a
perfect tight fit, covering the area completely with reflected light. There is no
need to mount the hood on chains or anything like that. The vertical distance in
scrog growing is fi7ed, so the hood can be screwed right into the top of the
apartment K you can mount the hoods using wingnuts in case of maintenance,
etc.>.
The light could be mounted to run into the cabinet rather than side to side, but
it#s easier to maintain the plants if the container is in front of the cabinet, with
the air and water supplies running up the back wall.
To allow the hoods to be removed for maintenance, connect the light socket to
the ballast outlet cable with three*prong plugs and sockets. Gnplug the light
from the ballast cable, spin off the wingnuts holding the hoods to studs
mounted in the ceiling of the compartment, and the whole light assembly will
come out in one piece.
$hile the 15? H!0 does a great ob in this space, they tend to sit offset on one
side of the hood, favoring the 0crA- canopy nearest the socket. To remedy this
you can supplement your hoods with a 5? H!0 light mounted on the other end.
!lant +ontainers and .ediumO (ou don#t have to grow this way, but it works,
and it works as well as it needs to work. (ou will grow thick 0crA- canopies.
422
Gse 66 gallon 'ubbermaid containers to grow in. The 'ubbermaid containers
solve many problems. The drip system doesn#t have to be water tight, because
leaks are confined in the container. The 0crA- net can be attached to four poles
attached to the corners of the container. The 'ubbermaid container has a lip
around the edge. 8rill a hole in each corner, insert one of those plastic plant
stakes in each corner, and run duct tape around the outside of the container to
hold it all together. If the compartment needs maintenance, the drip system
inlet can be disconnected=@uick connectors again>, and the whole plant mass,
scrog net and all, can be lifted out of the cabinet in one move. If you connect
the scrog netting=chicken wire> to the walls of the cabinet, well, you can#t do
that obviously.
Gse rockwool, but it wont act as the primary nutrient carrier. :our plants
ade@uately support the scrog canopy, each started in /Q cubes. The cubes sit on
a slab, but the slab is first sliced in half, ust a thin layer. The purpose of the slab
is only to spread the roots out horiBontally, as the grain of the slab runs <?
degrees to the cube.
The thinned slab sits on top of an open plastic grate, an eggcrate grill for a
fluorescent light fi7ture is perfect. The plastic grate is set up off the floor of the
container on blocks, allowing a 6*1Q air chamber for the roots to grow into. The
roots @uickly grow through the cube into the slab, spread out and then grow
through into the bottom of the container, pooling up into the indentations
molded into the 'ubbermaid bottom. It is the flow of water over the roots in the
container bottom that primarily supply the root mat.
)ccordingly, I don#t recommend a drip system, but an open flow, using spaghetti
tube connectors as emitters. I recommend five half hour cycles per day, three
during the light period and two during the dark period. The rockwool gets
saturated with water, but the solution drains through the wool very @uickly,
flowing down the drains back to the reservoirs. There is never any build up of
salts in the wool to worry about, and the roots will be very happy.
.others are also grown in the same fashion, but skip the half slab. (ou can
cram many mothers into the 'ubbermaid tub, as they are never allowed to get
very tall or big. In order to keep a mother small over an e7tended period of
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time, it is necessary to avoid giving it a Mhaircut##, as that would encourage it to
become bushy and top*heavy. Instead, remove whole branches from near the
bottom of the plant, oldest branches first. &ventually a mother will get tired and
will start to fail due to the many prunings, but she can always be replaced with
a clone.
Conc)usion7 I could discuss many other bits and pieces of the system, but
hopefully this has been sufficient for you to get the basic idea. I don#t think you
can design any other system that will produce more weight of buds from 15?
lights in this space. If you are new to this hobby and you want to go first class
in a minimum of space, you can feel confident that your efforts will succeed in a
big way if you duplicate this system. If you choose to do something different, at
least I hope my e7perience will provide some ideas for your dream cabinet.
425
Gro$in! Marijuana Outdoors
-rowing mariuana outdoors can grant you .)00I2& yields=some plants can
reach up to 1? feet tall">, but it can also be @uite risky depending on your grow
area. Datural sunlight and fresh air does wonders for cannabis plants. The male
dies around the 61
th
week of growing and the female will live another additional
4 to 5 weeks. :emales can weigh twice as much as males when they are fully
mature.
The cool thing about cultivating cannabis outdoors is that you save lots of
money on lighting * natural sunlight is available year round and is free" )nd
outdoor plants do not re@uire ventilation systems.
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Autdoor growing can be risky because of thieves, pests, and other factors that
can ruin your dreams. Tight security and privacy is essential to general outdoor
growing success. If you#re contemplating whether or not your climate is
sufficient to grow good weed in, don#t worry as long as it is a fairly warm
climate that you could grow small fruits or vegetables in you should be alright.
There are two types of outdoor growing methods known as Autdoor -rowing
and -uerrilla Autdoor -rowing. Autdoor -rowing is when you grow on your
own property. -uerrilla -rowing is when you grow on someone elses# or public
property. -uerrilla -rowing has advantages if you don#t want to get identified
with mariuana growing on your property then it#s a satisfactory option. 'egular
outdoor growing is the method used when you have your own plot of land to
grow on.
-uerilla growing is when you grow on property that is not your own =usually
somewhere out in the wild>. $hen guerilla growing the most important thing is
to have a cover story. Take along with you a bird watching book and
binooculars, or a fishing pole and fishing license etc so if stopped by any nosy
people asking what you are doing out there, you will be safe.
427
Not/7 I6 ,ou $/r/ "o-in! to just -)o- ,our s//ds in t"/ soi) and co8/ bac9 3
8ont"s )at/r t"/n sorr, to disa--oint ,ou but so8/ 8aint/nanc/ is r/Duir/d in
ord/r to !/t outstandin! ,i/)ds 6ro8 ,our cro-.
Autdoor pot tends to be the strongest, since it
gets more light. -rowing outdoors means no light
leak problems. Do dark periods that keep you out
of your grow room. Do high electricity bills.
0unlight tends to reach more of the plant, that is,
if you are growing mariuana in the direct sun.
The bottom of the plant will be almost as
developed as the top.
There are disadvantages to cultivating cannabis
outdoors howeverJ there are many factors that
can kill your crop. 8eer will try to eat them, and rodents too. Dasty bugs will
inhabit them. The wind and rain can tear your little buds to shreds if they are
e7posed to strong storms. 8ue to these harsh e7ternal conditions many outdoor
cultivators turn to a greenhouse, or choose to grow indoors.
This is why it is imperative you buy an outdoor mariuana seeds strainJ those
cannabis seeds are breed especially for difficult outside weather conditions,
optimum natural sunlight absorption, increased pest resistance, and much more
bushy plants. It is important to start your outdoor garden with @uality genetics,
preferably high yielding cannabis seeds strain, pest and cold resistant if you plan
to plant early in the season. .ost reputable seedbanks carry mariuana seeds
varieties for early spring outdoor growing.
Try a few different outdoor mariuana seeds varieties during the first year of
your outdoor cultivation, compare growing properties and the yields of your
cannabis seeds strains to find the one that suits you, your climate and location
as well as security circumstances. If you are growing in your back yard avoid
high 0ativa mariuana seeds varieties that could grow higher than your fence.
:or higher mariuana seeds germination rate, do not plant the cannabis seeds
directly in soil. -erminate your seeds at home using the paper towel
germination method. )fter the white roots can be seen coming out the
428
mariuana seeds move them to small pots and grow the seedling indoors until
they have 1 adult leaves. 'eplant outdoors, avoid indoor F outdoor temperature
shock. .ore on this Mstarting indoorsN method later.
!ut up a fence and make sure it stays up. 2isit your plot at least once every two
weeks, and preferably more often if water needs demand.
(ou may want to keep outdoor plants in pots so they can be easily moved. ) big
hole will allow the pot to be place in it, thus reducing the height of the plant, if
fence level is an issue. .any growers find pots have saved a crop that had to be
moved for some une7pected reason =repairman, appraiser, fire, etc.>.
It#s a good idea to use soil if you don#t have a green house, since hydroponics
will be less reliable outside in the open air=due mostly to evaporation>.
429
i!"t E4-osur/
$hen growing outdoors it is critical you plan H&:A'& you plant. The first
important maor factor to take into consideration is the angle of the sun over
the entire year aka the light e7posure your plant#s are getting.
In order to grow a successful bountiful outdoor harvest with the best plants you
are going to need a minimum of 5 hours of mid*day sun. )n easy way to do this
is go out in the 0pring to the area where you wish to plant and see what the
angle of the sun is at different times throughout the day. )s the seasons change
the suns orbit will change slightly as the planet rotates. -o out in midday and
follow the sun around in a 49? degree circle. Imagine its rotation being in this
spot at different times of the year. It sounds complicated but it is really simple,
ust make sure your plants are in a good spot and no light is blocked from them
from any possible angle the sun may take on during the year later.
430
;ight e7posure is all important when locating a site for a greenhouse or outdoor
plot. ) backyard grower will need to know where the sun shines for the longest
periodJ privacy and other factors will enter in as well. Try to find an secluded
spot that gets full winter sun from mid morning to mid afternoon, at least from
6?*/, preferably 3*5. This will be really asking for a lot if you live north of 4?
degrees latitude since days are short in winter. 0ince most gardeners will not
want to use the greenhouse in the middle of the winter, you can still use winter
sun as an indicator of good spring and fall lighting e7posures. Gsually the south
side of a hill gets the most sun. )lso, large areas open to the sun on the north
side of the property will get good southern e7posures. &ast and $est e7posures
can be good if they get the full morningFafternoon sun and mid*day sun as well.
0ome books say the plants respond better to morning*only sun, verses
afternoon*only sun, so if you have to choose between the two, morning sun
may be better.
)nother great tip is if your plants are near any kind of wall to paint it a flat
white. This will help greatly with reflecting light onto your precious buds=this
single tip alone is said to help increase yields by up to 6?P">
431
Brost
:rost occurs when air temperatures drop below 41Y:=?Y+> and ice crystals form
on leaves, inuring, and sometimes killing, tender plants.
+lear, calm skies and falling afternoon temperatures are usually the perfect
conditions for frost. If the temperatures are falling fast under clear, windy skies*
especially when the wind is out of the northwest*it may indicate the approach of
a mass of polar air and a hard freeBe. ) hard or killing frost is based on
movements of large, cold air masses. The result is below*freeBing temperatures
that generally kill all but the most cold*tolerant plants.
C)oud, (9i/s7 If the temperature is cool, but clouds are visible, your plants
may be protected. 8uring the day, the suns radiant heat warms the earth. )fter
the sun sets, the heat radiates upward, which lowers the temperatures at or
near the ground. However, if the night sky has clouds, these clouds will trap the
heat and keep the warmer temperatures lower, closer to your plants, preventing
a frost.
432
'ind7 $ind also influences frost. If the air is still and windless, the coldest air
settles to the ground. The temperature at plant level may be freeBing, even
though at eye level it isn#t. ) gentle breeBe, however, will prevent the cold air
from settling and keep temperatures higher, protecting your plants. If the wind
itself is below freeBing, frost may be very damaging.
Moistur/7 Humidity and moisture are good things when talking frost. $hen
moisture condenses out of humid air, it releases enough heat to sometimes save
your plants. $hen the air is dry, the moisture in the soil will evaporate.
&vaporation re@uires heat, which removes warmth that could save your
vegetables.
ocation7 The location of your garden can have a tremendous influence on
whether or not an early frost could wipe out your garden, but leave your
neighbors alone. )s a general rule, the temperature drops 4*5Y:=*69.6 to
*65Y+> with every 6,???*foot increase in altitude. The higher your garden the
colder the average air temperature and the more likely your plants will be hit by
an early freeBe.
However, lower isnt always better. +old air is heavier than warm air and tends
to sink to the lowest areas, causing frost damage. The best location for an
annual garden is on a gentle, south*facing slope that#s well heated by late*
afternoon sun and protected from blustery north winds. ) garden surrounded by
buildings or trees or one near a body of water is also less likely to become frost
covered.
(oi)7 The type of soil your garden is growing in also affects the amount of
moisture it holds. 8eep, loose, heavy, fertile soil releases more moisture into the
surrounding air than thin, sandy, or nutrient*poor soil. The more humid the air
is, the higher the dew point will be, and the less likely that frost will form on
those plants. Heavily mulched plants are more likely to become frosted since the
mulch prevents moisture and heat from escaping out of the soil and warming
the surrounding air.
Jno$ ,our -)ants7 The plant itself determines its likelihood of frost damage.
Immature plants still sporting new growth into the fall are most susceptible*
433
especially the new growth. :rost tolerance tends to be higher in plants with
maroon or bronBe leaves, because such leaves absorb and retain heat. 8owny*
or hairy*leaved plants also retain heat. +ompact plants e7pose a smaller
proportion of their leaves to cold and drying winds. Hy the same token, closely
spaced plants protect each other.
I6 6rost is on its $a,7 If a frost is predicted, cover your plants, both to retain
as much soil heat and moisture as possible and to protect them against strong
winds, which can hasten drying and cooling. (ou can use newspapers, baskets,
tarps, straw, and other materials to cover your plants. +over the whole plant
before sunset to trap any remaining heat. He sure to anchor lightweight
coverings to prevent them from blowing away.
Eeep the soil moist by watering your plants the day a frost is predicted.
+ommercial fruit and vegetable growers leave sprinklers on all night to cover
plants with water. )s the water freeBes, it releases heat, protecting the plants,
even though they#re covered by ice. To prevent damage, the sprinklers need to
run continuously as long as temperatures remain below freeBing.
434
Co)d T/8-/ratur/ E66/cts On 5)ants U </!/tation
Brost Da8a!/7 8epends upon length of frost duration.
i!"t Br//=/7 1<*41Y:=*1 to ?Y+>. Tender plants killed with little destructive
effect on other vegetation.
Mod/rat/ Br//=/7 15*13Y:=*/ to *1Y+>. $ide destruction on most vegetation
with heavy damage to fruit blossoms and tender semi*hardy plants.
(/0/r/ Br//=/7 1/Y:=*/Y+> and colder. Heavy damage to most plants.
Co)or C"an!/s7 +old temperatures can cause your plant to turn purpleFred.
435
'"/ns t"/ b/st ti8/ to Gro$@
.ariuana plants can grow anywhere corn can grow. )ll it needs is about three
growing months K from seed to harvest. Two if started indoors" .any
seasoned=no pun intended> growers agree, an ideal time to start growing your
plants is the months of .arch and )prilFearly .ay. The reason is your plants
start to mature and flower around )ugust L 0eptember, which is when daylight
hours begin to decrease. If you live in the Dorthern Hemisphere be sure to ask
growers around you when the last frost is. )nytime after the last frost is AE.
8efinitely plant them after the last frost of the year. If the cold climate is a
concern you could start them inside, and put them outside during the day, then
bring them in at night. If you start a plant indoors you should do this anyway,
because the plant needs to Qharden offQ, or in other words get used to the
elements. If you ust toss an indoor plant outside it will suffer some shock.
-iving it a few hours of outside a day will ease it into the outdoors.
'emember that starting your plants off indoors is probably the easiest way to
begin. The plant#s initial growth can be spurred by utiliBing a +A1 enriched
atmosphere and by using metal halides.
(tartin! Indoors
8o not plant your precious mariuana seeds directly in soil. -erminate the
cannabis seeds at home and replant seedlings outdoors. Ane popular method of
doing this is to start off by planting your seeds in small plastic pots indoors=or
by using clones>. Ance the seedlings have been allowed to develop for a little
bit, you then cut off the plastic bottoms and tape a small piece of shoebo7 or
cardboard to the bottoms. Then go to your grow patch to transplant them. 0tart
off by digging a little hole, remove the cardboard, and carefully set your plant
in. This method is liked by many because you don#t have to worry about
germinating =since it is already taken care of indoors>. (ou can also clone all
females and do the above method to have all female outdoor plants. !retty rad,
yeahC
436
Not/7 You can us/ a co88/rcia)),Aa0ai)ab)/ trans-)ant c"/8ica) in ord/r to "/)-
t"/8 o0/rco8/ t"/ s"oc9.
Transporting vegetative starts to the growing area is a most tricky aspect of
growing outdoors, but germinating your mariuana seeds in spot is out of the
@uestion. Gsually, you will want to germinate the cannabis seeds at home, keep
seedlings indoors, or outside in your garden, then transport them to the grow
site once they are firmly established. It may be desirable to first detect and
separate males from females so that no effort of
transportingFtransplantingFwatering males is incurred. .ale female cannot be
told by looking at the cannabis seeds, so you have to wait for seedlings to show
se7 signs.
)nother method is to use 4Q rockwool cubes to start seedlings in, then put 1? of
them in a litter pan, cover it with another pan, and transport this to the grow
site. The cubes can be planted directly into soil.
Gu/ri))a Gro$in!
-uerrilla growing basically means farming outdoors, away from your own
property, or in a remote location of your property where people seldom roam
around. It is possible to find locations that for one reason or another are not
easily accessible or are privately owned.
(/curit,7 $hen guerilla growing it is critical to make sure your cannabis plants
are out of sight. Take a different route to get to them if they are not in a secure
part of your property, and cover the trail to make it look as if there is no trail.
.ake cut backs in the trail, so that people on the main trail will tend to miss the
cut*back to the grow area. 8on#t park on the main road, always find a place to
park that will not arouse suspicion by people that pass on the road. )lways have
a good reason for being in the area and have the necessary items to make your
claim believable.
$hen planting, try to plant under trees, ne7t to bushes and keep only a few
plants in any one spot. Train or top the plants to grow sideways, or do
something to prevent the classic +hristmas tree look of most plants left to grow
untrained. Tying the top down to the ground will make the plants branches grow
437
up toward the sun, and increase yield, given a long enough growing season.
!lants can be grown under trees if the sun comes in at an angle and lights the
area for several hours every day. Gse shoes that you can dispose of later and
cover your foot prints.
B/ncin!7 !ut up a fence, or the chipmunks, s@uirrels and deer will nibble on
your crops until there is nothing left=mmm...cannabis>. -reen wire mesh and
nylon chicken fencing net work great and can be wrapped around trees to
create a strong barrier. )lways check it and repair every visit you make to the
garden. ) barrier of fishing line, one at 63Q and another at 4# will keep most
deer away from your crop. The best fence in the world will not keep rats away
from your plants" !ut the poison grain in a feeder than only small rodents can
enter, so that birds and deer can#t eat it. 0et out poison early, before actual
planting. The rats must eat the grain for several days before it will have any
effect on them. Gltimately, you may find it#s easier to grow in a greenhouse
shed in your own backyard rather than try to keep the rats from eating your
outdoor plot.
'at/r7 $hen growing away from the house, in the wild, water is the biggest
determining factor, after security. The amount you can grow is directly
proportional to the water available. If you must pack*in water, carry it in a
backpack in case your seen in*route to your gardenJ you will appear to be
merely a hiker, not a grower. $ater must be close by, or close to the soil
surface, or you will have to pack water in. $ater is heavy and this is very hard
work. Try to find an area close to a source of water if possible, and keep a
bucket nearby to carry water to your plot.
) good idea is to find high water in the mountains, at altitude, and then route it
down to a lower spot close by. It is possible to create water pressure in a hose
this way, and route it to a drip system that feeds water to your plants
continuously. Take a 5 gallon gas can, and punch small holes in it. 'un a hose
out of the main orifice and secure it somehow. Hury the can in a river or stream
under rocks, so that it is hidden and submerged. Hury the hose coming out of it,
and run it down hill to your garden area. ) little engineering can save you a lot
of work, and this rig can be used year after year.
438
+ar0/stin!7 $hen it#s time to travel back to your home with your rewards, be
sure to do it very early in the morning =preferably before the sun rises> in order
to avoid unwanted attention.
439
C"oosin! A Gro$ (it/
Hefore you can sow your mariuana seeds you must find a suitable location to
grow your plants. The garden should be located in an area where people are
unlikely to stumble across it.
Try to grow away from roads, trails, railroad tracks, power lines and any man
made structures. !ricker bushes, mud, water and steep hills are all people
deterrents. -rowing near small pine trees also helps hide your plants in the fall
when other plants are turning brown and mariuana remains green. )lso, find
out when and where hunters start to roam the woods in your area.
440
i!"t7 ) very important consideration when making your choice is sun
e7posure. The more direct sunlight the better=preferably a southern facing
slope>. Dorth facing slopes are also a good choice. .ariuana likes a lot of
sunlight. (our grow site should have at least three hours of direct sun every day.
.ariuana will grow the fastest with around five hours of light every day. The
less light the plant receives the slower the growth and smaller the yield. If there
is less than three hours of direct light at the grow site then tin foil can be put
around the plants to reflect more light on the leaves. If you are in a low light
area this will make a big difference. .ariuana also seems to respond better to
morning sunlight than afternoon sunlight. Eeep this in mind when selecting a
site.
(oi)7 0oil is obviously an important factor when determining a grow site.
.ariuana likes a soil that drains well and has a pH of about 9.5. .ariuana soil
should compact when you s@ueeBe it and break apart easily when you poke it.
0and, perlite or vermiculite can be added to soils that drain poorly. The pH of
the soil must also be kept around 9.5. If the pH is too e7treme then the plant
will not be able to absorb nutrients properly. ;ow pH also causes more males to
develop. The pH can be raised by adding hydrated lime. The lime is slow acting
so add it during the fall or at least one month before planting. pH can be
lowered by adding sodium bicarbonate to the soil.
The level of the water table at the grow site is also important. If the water table
is too high and the soil is too wet the roots will not receive enough o7ygen and
die. If the water table is too low then the soil will dry out @uickly and you will
have to water often. If the ground is too wet then the plants must be grown in
pots. The larger the better. The pot should have a one inch layer of gravel for
good drainage. The rest of the pot should be filled with potting soil.
'at/r (ourc/7 ) nearby source of fresh clean water is also helpful. If no water
is available in the area for watering then large buckets or barrels should be
partially buried. These will collect enough rainwater for watering. If you have to
bring water to the grow site then do it at night and water the following morning.
$atering at night or late evening will increase the chance of developing a mold
problem. )ny e@uipment needed for watering or garden maintenance should be
left hidden at the site.
441
+hoosing a mariuana grow site near a water source saves the maor hassle of
having to haul water in by hand. ) nearby water source allows irrigation =with
pumps and hoses>, making watering easy. ) drawback is that people are also
attracted to rivers, streams, etc and may be nearby. Having a water source near
by is great, as it usually means the tap roots of the plant will penetrate deep
enough though the last 6F1 or 6F4 of the season and will not re@uire much, if
any, supplemental watering.
.ariuana fertiliBing will still be re@uired periodically.
5/sts7 $ild animals love to eat young mariuana plants and if you don#t want
your plants to be food then you must keep them away. Human hair and blood
works well. Hair from predator animals such as bears, fo7es, lions and wolves
also works well. If you would rather put up a fence then fishing line hung at
eight inches and 4 feet off the ground will stop deer. $hen the plants are small
a drinking glass can be placed over them to act as a humidity tent and to keep
rodents and deer out.
(/curit,7 8o not grow mariuana outdoors on your own land=unless it is
remote>, so that you can show that someone could have easily trespassed on
your property, and violated your land by planting mariuana. ) few mariuana
plants should be fine, but be careful. There is a constant threat of suspicious
neighbors, huntersFhikers when growing weed.
:ind a secure location where your mariuana plants won#t be stolen by
rippersFhuntersFhikers. )void heavy traffic areas, popular hiking trails, and
recreational roads.
)t all costs, avoid making paths to your outdoor mariuana grow location. $hat
seems invisible on the ground may be very apparent from the air. Try a new
path each time you enter or e7it your mariuana siteJ walking along fallen logs,
in dense areas and through streams, etc. Heck, wear snowshoes.
442
Try to have several outdoor mariuana grow locations. 8o not plant all your
mariuana plants in one spot. If your cannabis plants do get eaten, ripped off, or
destroyed it is nice to have mariuana plants in other locations to fall back on.
These separate mariuana grow spots can be close=5*1? min hike away> or
distant=completely different areas in driving distance>. !lanting inside a dense
field of brush is very stealthy.
Ca8ou6)a!/7 !ot plants tend to blend in with other plants to the point that
they are unidentifiable by all e7cept those actively looking for them=and even
then it#s still tough">. !lants started outdoors late in the season never get very
big and never attract the least bit of attention when placed ne7t to plants of
similar or taller stature. &ven tall plants grown among several trees will be
almost invisible in their camouflage.
Autdoors the obect is to control access to an area, and not to arouse suspicion.
Tuck them here and there, never in a recogniBable pattern. 0pace them out, and
fit them in to the e7isting landscape such that they get full sun, but their hidden
or blend in. :ence lines and groups of several together are best. Try to find
strains that seem to match the surrounding plants.
443
:eed nitrogen to your plants if they need to be greener to blend in. 0ome
growers even use plastic red flowers, pinned to a plant, disguising it as a flower
bush. 2isit the plants at night on full moons, and if your visible to neighbours,
appear to be pruning a tree, mowing the lawn, or doing something in the yard
that makes you invisible. 8ig a hole and put a potted plant in it. The plant#s
height will be reduced by at least a foot. 0ome growers top the plant when it is
61Q high, and grow the 1 tops horiBontally along a trellis. The plant will never be
over 4 feet tall, and never arouses suspicion from neighbours. This type of plant
can even be grown in your yard in full view.
B/rti)it, U (un E4-osur/7 Ance you have chosen a secure location, check the
area is fertile, with lots of green vegetation. 8ark or black topsoil with lots of
bugsFworms within the first few inches of soil is an indication of a healthy
location. He prepared to prepare the soil before planting. This would include
hauling in mariuana fertiliBers to improve the soil conditions. Gse mariuana
fertiliBers throughout the mariuana growth cycle for optimum growth.
2alley bottoms tend to be ideal locations for mariuana plants because rich
topsoil often washes downwards and accumulates. It can be challenging to find
good sun e7posure at the bottom of a valley. 2alley bottoms are also the first
areas to have frost in the fall.
444
Not/7 (cout a 8arijuana !ro$ )ocation durin! t"/ su88/r and 6a)) to -r/-ar/ 6or
-)antin! t"/ 6o))o$in! s-rin!. T"/ sit/ n//ds to "a0/ brus" r/8o0/dC and a
suitab), si=/d ar/a n//ds to b/ c)/ar/d 6or cannabis -)antin!. 5r/-arin! t"/ "o)/s
t"/ -r/0ious 6a)) a))o$s soi) ti8/ to co8-ost and !ro$ b/n/6icia) bact/ria. Add
0a)uab)/ co8-ost and r/turn in t"/ s-rin! to "/a)t", /nric"/d soi) r/ad, 6or
8arijuana -)ants.
445
5r/-arin! Your Gro$ (-ot
Ance you have found a suitable safe location to grow your outdoor stalks of
delicious greens, you must prepare your grow spot. :irst things first, make sure
you remove as many weeds as you possibly can. The best method to remove
those pesky weeds is by hand.
'A2NING7 Do not us/ !/n/ric $//d 9i))/r1
0tay away from commercial weed killers. 0ome weed killers react very
negatively to mariuana plants. If you are adamant on using a weed killer, then I
suggest you test it on a clone first to make sure it doesn#t hurt your plant#s
growth in )D( $)(. It is ideal to find one that reacts with cannabis plants in a
favorable way, or if you can find a specific cannabis*friendly weed killer all the
better. If you want to be safe, do all your weeding by hand.
5r/-arin! (oi)
8ig a big hole, don#t depend on the plant to be able to penetrate the clay
and rubble unless your sure of the @uality of topsoil in the area. -rassy
fields would have good top soil, but your back yard may not. This alone can
make the difference between an average 5# tall plant, and a 6?# monster by
harvest time. -rowing in the ground will always beat a pot, since the plant
will never become root bound in the ground. !lants grown in the ground
should grow much larger, but will need more space for each plant, so plan
accordingly, you can#t move them once they#re in"
!reparing your soil and the spot you are going to plant in is very important. The
first step is to dig a hole. )bout 6.5ft 7 6.5ft deep is fine. De7t, fill it with water
and time how long it takes the mud to drain the water out.
446
I6 it...
8rains in 6? minutes or less add coco, peat, compost etc to hold water.
8rains in 6?*4? minutes add peat, compost, coco etc to improve te7ture.
8rains in 4?*9? minutes add peat, compost, coco etc to improve te7ture.
8rains in 9? minutes+ add sand, coco, perlite, to improve drainage.
)lso be sure to remove any rocks or roots inside your hole as best you can. Dow
fill your hole with your mi7. (our soil is incredibly important. Ance you put it in
that#s that. It is the H)0& of your entire garden. .i7 a good soil and you will
save yourself plenty of time, money, frustration, energy )D8 you will reap the
benefits of .)00I2& yields and @uality outdoor plants.
If using a clone, ust simply drop your seedling in and surround the rockwool
cube or other grow medium with your mi7. (ou can add rougher obects like
rocks on the surface around your leaves to act as a moulch. This will help retain
water better. :ill up your mi7 up to your leaves.
) lot of growers like to add pre*made soil to their grow patch. This is fine, but
make sure you only use a soil that has an D*!*E ratio containing higher levels of
D=Ditrogen> than !=!hosphorus> or E=!otassium>. )dding pre*made soil is a
good idea. &ven if you treat your patch it probably still contains seeds and
spores of weeds and other wildlife that will leech your cannabis plant#s
nutrients, water, and most importantly K ;I-HT. .ake sure your plant has little*
to ideally DA competition.
Not/7 A -r/8iu8 -ottin! soi) $or9s 6in/ 6or our -ur-os/s "/r/. (ta, a$a, 6ro8
soi)s $it" a )ot o6 bar9 dust in t"/8 as t"/s/ t/nd to b/ $a, too acidic. A)so sta,
a$a, 6ro8 an,t"in! t"at is a "/a0, c)a,. A nic/C )i!"t -ottin! 8i4 is $"at ,ou ar/
!oin! 6or. Id/a)), ,ou s"ou)d 8i4 ,our o$n t"ou!".
Ane secret trick used by growers that will tremendously help in increasing
outdoor plant growth during the early stages is to spray the plants with
carbonated water several times a day. 8A DAT use club soda or anything like
that as those products contain salt. .ake your own with a home soda maker
which used +A1 cartridges, or you can buy seltBer. These have Bero salt added.
447
If the young plants are sprayed several times a day, it will speed up their growth
considerably. (ou can continue this method to receive benefit throughout the
plant#s life cycle but it costs a lot of money.
If you are planting in a very dry climate, make sure to create a deep bowl shape
so water is retained better.
Maint/nanc/
:irst thing you will want to do on a regular basis is remove any of the leaves
that aren#t getting any sunlight as well as old leaves. De7t shake off any e7cess
water gathering on your buds.
)ny time there is a heavy rain storm go out and shake your buds. This will
prevent mold from forming.
He sure to weed your outdoor grow area at least once a week after the initial
weeding. Eeep this up for the first 4 weeks, then only about once a month will
be needed. Hut sometimes weeds here and there will pop up. .ake it a habit
each time you visit your plants to pull up a few weeds.
5)antin! Your (//ds
Hefore planting soak your seeds in distilled water overnight. There is no need to
bury them too deep in .other &arth, 6N is perfect. $hen you plant them, be
sure to plant in the ground with the pointy end facing G!. )lso note that the
plants should be planted at ;&)0T three feet apart, do not get greedy and stack
them too close. 0tacking your plants too close will result in stunted growth.
) healthy seed will sprout in about five days. )fter planting your seeds sprinkle
some water over them. That#s all you need to do for now. There is no need to
adust the soil#s pH level or feed your soil ust yet. This is all that needs to be
done to start your seedlings if you decide to take the root of planting them
directly in soil. :or another awesome method for starting off your outdoor
cannabis plants right=indoors first>, check the -uerilla Autdoor -rowing section.
448
'at/rin! Your Outdoor 5)ants
.ost the water you will need will come from clean fresh rainwater. The plants
enoy some water during their growing season, but not too much or you can rot
the root system. If no rain or any other natural source of water will get to your
plants, then you will need to water and feed your plants when they need it. He
very careful during warm long summer dry spells, try to get water to your plants
whenever you can. If your -uerilla -rowing and have to travel over a long
distance then you can get a backpack or duffle bag and fill it with water bottles.
)nother option if you own your own property is to use a sprinkler system.
'emember, the bigger your plant is, the more water it needs. 0ome large plants
re@uire a minimum of 6 gallon of water per day. 0ome factors to consider when
watering your plantsJ sometimes deep pockets of water will be held inside the
earth under your plants. The best method to determine if your plant needs
water or not is by it#s appearance. If it is wilting it needs water. If not, you#re
fine. Eeep in mind some plants tend to wilt a little bit during hot summer
months, not to worry as this is completely normal.
Not/7 '"/n $at/rin! ,our !u/ri))a !ro$n -)ants a us/6u) strat/!, is to ta9/ a
)ar!/ $at/r bott)/>about a !a))on or t$o? and -o9/ a "o)/ in it. '"at ,ou $ant is
6or t"/ $at/r to (O'Y dri- out. T"/n -)ac/ it so it dri-s n/ar ,our -)antKs soi)C
about 3 inc"/s a$a,.
In the hot summer water at least twice a week for the first two weeks. )fter
that once a week checkups to see how it is doing is fine. If you get about 6 inch
of rain a week you wont need to water at all.
(/curit,
Eeeping your cannabis plant safe is very important. There are several effective
precautions we can implement to ensure a safe bountiful harvest.
>Bor co8-)/t/ d/tai)/d outdoor s/curit, and sa6/t, -roc/dur/s -)/as/
r/6/r to t"/ Marijuana (/curit, B)ac9boo9.?
449
5/sts
(ou will encounter many outdoor pests that love to feast on cannabis and
destroy your precious crops.
>5/st -r/0/ntion and id/nti6ication ar/ -ro0id/d in t"/
Cannabis Car/ Manua).?
450
T,in! Do$n Outdoor 5)ants
Tying down your outdoor plants offers many benefits. :or one thing it vastly
improves air e7posure and sun, which reduce chances of mold and increase
harvest yield weight.
451
T"/ B/n/6its o6 T,in! Do$n7
Increases yield.
.ore sun coverage.
-reater air e7posure=reduces chance of mold>.
!romotes branching=increases bud sites>.
0ecurity
These are awesome benefits for such a simple
practice. Tying down in the long run will distribute
light to your plantFplants evenly=Instead of one side
receiving morning light, and the other receiving the
afternoon light>. )s you will observe * this will
dramatically enhance growth.
T"/ 5roc/dur/
The method is very simple and can be used
whenever you want. It doesn#t matter if you do it
during vegetative growth or during flowering. It is
dependent on the lower branches that you#ll need to
spread out. $hen tying the lower branches down
you will get a better air circulation and that will reduce the chance for mold, also
the yield will increase because the sun can penetrate the canopy better.
(ou can use strings or ropes or whatever you want to tie the branches. 8on#t tie
them too hard because they could easily snap. )lso, don#t bend the branches all
at once in one day, bend it more and more, day by day, this way the branch
wont snap. )fter doing this you will notice a very large open area, Hecause all
the lower branches have been spread open, don#t worry, in a couple of days the
improved sunlight penetration will fill it up again. Gsing this method, you will
create a wider plant which will have several more productive bud sites and
heavier branches than any plant that wasn#t trained in this way. It#s like 0crA-
without topping the plant, but instead of doing it to a tiny indoor plant, you do it
to a big tree. O>
452
'//9 17 (tart i!"t),. Tie string or fish line appro7imately 6F4rd down from
the top. Tie the other end of the line to an obstacle on the ground, making sure
your plant isn#t straining
A6t/r . Da,s7 Ins-/ct Gro$t". Hy now if your plant has received @uality
amounts of light, you will notice your leaves facing upwards =reaching for the
sun>. (our plants will try to receive as much sunlight as possible. Abviously it
would have grown a certain amount as wellJ this is why you will need to attach
more line to the middle of your plant, tying the rope down more than you did
previously.
(/0/ra) '//9s at/r7 Eeep tying your plant down as necessary until branches
start to pierce the canopy. ;eave these branches to grow. $hen branches start
to flower, you will have to be cautious. Hranches that get too long will not be
able to support the heavy bud it is producing. This is when you will have to start
tying the branches either down, or pulling them up, depending on the
circumstances.
(u!!/stions7 .ake sure you determine if your plant is female before you
commence tying down" :igure out where the sun is casting its shadows before
commencing. 'emembering to tie down in the direction the sun is mostly cast
upon through out the day.
453
:irst day=behind>. :irst day=front>. 6 $eek )fter=behind>.

6 $eek )fter=closeup>.
1 $eeks )fter=bud sites
showing>.
$eek 9=front>.
Tying down has about the same effect as topping, although with much less
stress on the plant. That said, tying down can be done during early flowering,
but if you can you might want to do most of your tying during vegetative
growth, and when you get to flowering, you can do some minor adustments.
$hen you tie down, the growth hormones are relocated to lower branches, so
you probably don#t want to be doing too much to change the plant#s focus
during flowering. That said, I don#t think it#s going to change all that much, but
in general, trying to keep your plants as unstressed as possible is always good
for ma7imum bud siBe and @uality.
454
Gr//n"ous/ Gro$in!
) greenhouse is any structure with a
covering=usually glass> which is used to control
temperature and humidity in the cultivation and
protection of plants. $hen you have a
greenhouse, you effectively have your own little
micro*environment that you can control.
T"/ Ad0anta!/s o6 Gr//n"ous/
Gro$in!
-reenhouse growing is like a MhybridN between
indoor and outdoor growing. There are many
benefits to growing cannabis inside a decently*
constructed greenhouse.
T/8-/ratur/ Contro)7 The greenhouse design
lets light inJ and when this light is absorbed by
obects inside the greenhouse and turns to heat energy, it is not permitted
to escape. The air temperature in the greenhouse will e7ceed the outside
temperature. If it gets too hot, all you have to do is open up some of the
ventilation panels=or ust open the door, depending on the design> and the
temperature will drop. -reenhouses are able to regulate temperatures *
temperature fluctuations can stress plants and slow growth.
5/st Contro)7 )s most greenhouses have a pretty good covering over all
the structure, pests can#t get in as easily as they could if your plants were
ust out in the open. This also applies to seeds and even pollen from
unwanted plants=such as weeds>.
455
Abi)it, to contro) "u8idit,7 The air*tight covering on a greenhouse
causes it to become @uite hot and humid inside during the day time. The
moisture evaporating from the soil, and the moisture given off by
photosynthesiBing plants=transpiration> fills the air. Ance the air is very
humid, it becomes harder for plants to lose water through evaporation, and
likewise with the soil. This helps to keep
everything from drying out on a hot sunny day.
Therefore, it is essential to have air circulation to
e7haust e7cessive humidity and regulate air
e7change.
(t/a)t"7 Dosey neighbors will have their view
obstructed by your greenhouse if you choose to
use slightly shaded glassFplastic, which still lets
enough light through for strong plant growth, but
is opa@ue enough as to obscure vision from the
outside.
5rot/cts ,our -)ants 6ro8 ad0/rs/ $/at"/r conditions7 0torms can#t
blow your plants over and tear them to shreds when they#re safely inside
your greenhouse" )lso helps protect plants in areas where frosts are
common. &7cessive rain can cause powdery mildew and mold that can
affect the final crop.
Ot"/r Ad0anta!/s7 &very plant is made up of cells. &very cell has
hundreds of chemical reactions taking place inside it at every moment of
the day. These reactions would be very slow, if it wasn#t for enBymes.
&nBymes act as catalysts for all the chemical reactions taking place in cells
=including photosynthesis>.
456
&nBymes work best in certain pH#s and temperature ranges, depending on
the type of enByme. Too high or low pH, and the enBymes will work slower
than normal, or might even denature=die>. Too low a temp, and the
enBymes will also not function to capacity, and too high results in them
being denatured. $arm, but not hot temperatures, usually result in
ma7imum enByme efficiency=which means faster plant growth>. Having
perfect temperatures is like super*charging your
plants"
Higher humidity helps slow the rate of evaporation
from soil and plants, as the air already has a large
amount of water suspended in it. !lants use water
during photosynthesisJ so they need a constant
water supply during sunlight hours. Having to battle
with high evaporation rates is something they don#t want" Hy lowering this,
it enables the plants to photosynthesiBe more without losing water to the
point of their leaves wilting.
) greenhouse is a great idea for outdoor growers who live in cold climates,
or areas where pests and security are maor concerns. It also helps hide
your crops from anyone who may be having a @uick look over their fence. If
you want ma7imum control of your outdoor grow, a greenhouse is an
absolute essential part of your garden"
457
T"/ Disad0anta!/s o6 Gr//n"ous/ Gro$in!
This is actually a trick section K there really aren#t any disadvantages to
greenhouse growing" -rowing in a greenhouse is ust like a regular outdoor
grow, e7cept you have much more control over it. The one thing I would say
might be a bit disadvantaging would be the humidity. It may increase the risk of
mold on your buds. This is easily fi7ed by opening the greenhouse up a bit and
letting some more fresh air in. If you#re paranoid about mold attacking your
plants in a greenhouse, you can use !otassium 0ilicate to protect your plants,
which is easily available at most gardeningFhydroponic shops.
458
Gr//n"ous/ Construction
-reenhouses don#t always have to be made out of glass. .any modern
greenhouses are made of plastic, or specialiBed materials. These materials
come in a variety of color, siBe and thickness. +hoosing materials carefully
will ensure you have the best greenhouse for your situation.
-reenhouses can be simple do*it*yourself obs using some timber and a
drill, or poly tunnels using poly tubing and some polythene sheets. They
can also be large custom built structures, using metal and concrete. :or
most people, a small 8I( greenhouse=about 6?*1? s@uare meters> will do
ust fine.
$hen growing in a green house it is important to conceal it. 8isguise your
greenhouse as a tool shed, or similar structure, by using only one wall and
a roof of white opa@ued plastic, !2+, :ilon, or glass, and using a similar
colored material for the rest of the shed, or painting it white or silvery, to
look like metal. Try to make it appear as if it has always been there, with
plants and trees that grow around it and mask it from view while allowing
sun to reach it.
459
Not/7 D/-/ndin! on t"/ si=/C and construction o6 t"/ !r//n"ous/C ,ou 8a, or
8a, not n//d -/r8ission 6ro8 )oca) aut"oriti/s.
:ilon=corrugated fiberglass> or !2+ plastic sheets can be used outside to
cover young plants grown together in a garden. (ou can buy the clear
greenhouse sheets, and opa@ue them with white wash=made from lime> or
epo7y resin tinted white or gray and painted on in a thin layer. This will
pass more sun than white !2+ or :ilon, and still hide the plants. &po7y
resin coats will preserve the :ilon for many more seasons than it would
otherwise last. It will also allow you to disguise the shed as metal, if you
paint the clear filon sheets with a thin layer of resin tinted light gray. !aint
will work as well, but may not protect as much. He careful to use only as
much as needed, to reduce sun blockage to a minimum.
Bina) 'ords
$ith ade@uate sunlight, sufficient watering, pest protection, proper feeding, a
secure grow area, and plenty of fresh airJ your cannabis plants will grow
through their entire life cycle beautifully with an abundant @uality harvest. Ance
you reach the end of your plant#s flowering season you will be ready to harvest
your plant and enoy it#s tasty rewards.
>(// t"/ +ar0/stin! s/ction 6or 8or/ d/tai)s on "ar0/stin! outdoor
8arijuana -)ants.?

461
Cannabis 5)ant Car/
-rowing mariuana isn#t as simple as plopping a seed into a grow medium and
sitting back and smiling. !roper maintaining of your crop is re@uired through
training, pruning, topping and more...
5)ant (u--ort
$hen your plants enter their flowering stage of growth, they will begin to get
very top*heavy and may end up tipping over. !roperly supporting them is
important.
There are a couple things you can do. :or one you can use bamboo support
sticks. These are super cheap, durable, and do the ob very effectively.
.etal support sticks used for holding up large flowers work great too.
462
-et creative" )nother method is !2+ pipeO
0creen of -reen=0crA-> $orks well in this regard as well. .ore on this
techni@ue later.
5)ant (ic9n/ssC (tr/ssC and 5/sts
>5)/as/ r/0i/$ t"/ Cannabis Car/ Manua) 6or in6or8ation on "o$ to
-ro-/r), -r/0/ntC id/nti6,C and cur/ an, -rob)/8s ,ou 8a, /ncount/r
$it" ,our -)ants.?
463
Trainin! Cannabis
Aver the years, many different techni@ues have been developed for training
cannabis plants. The goal of training a mariuana plant is to optimiBe yield with
the available light and space. Autside a plant in the middle of a clearing with a
full year of vegetation can probably be left to do what it wants and give great
yields. Indoors the light is more precious and and many growers are using small
cabinets. Indoor growers must train their plants to utiliBe the space they have.
Hefore getting started training there are couple things that any grower should
be aware of. The first thing is that cannabis leaves are a lot like solar panels.
(ou might be twisting and directing the branches but the plant knows better
than you when and where it needs leaves, so leave them alone. If a gentle pull
on the leaf doesn#t cause it to give way immediately then it is healthy tissue.
Gsually you will only want to removed browned leaves. $ith a thick canopy
under indoor light the lower growth will yellow and die, this is because the plant
isn#t getting much light there and steals the nutrients from these now uneeded
Msolar panelN leaves. This is .other Dature at work and not always a sign of too
much or too few nutrients, as many newbie growers tend to wrongly think.
)nother thing that is important to know is that the tops of the plant produce the
most potent and largest flowers. .ost training techni@ues focus on ma7imiBing
the number of these Mtop flowersN. $hen removing smaller lower flowers the
plant will direct all its energy to the larger tops. How much difference different
training techni@ues make is debated but trimming lower growth that is far from
the light is universally agreed to improve yield. )ny time you bend a branch
horiBontally it will cause the plant to produce a hormone that encourages lateral
growth.
$hen training plants you will occasionally snap a stem. It happens. !lants can
usually recover from this. %ust position the stem back together and tape it in
place. -ive the stem time to recover before applying more pressure to that spot.
) small knot will develop at the break and in the end the plant stem will grow
back healthier and stronger than before.
464
There are several cool techni@ues that one can use when growing cannabis...
5runin!
$hy pruneC $hen a cannabis plant is left to grow freely as it chooses, it usually
has more branches than it has the energy to support. This means that a lot of
energy is wasted on smaller branches, especially the lower ones. The energy
need is so spread out that in e7treme cases flowering takes a very long time as
the plant tries to supply energy evenly to every location. Hy removing some of
the less important and weaker branches, you can ensure that the larger
branches produce a greater amount of high @uality bud. The bud on the lower
branches that receive less light usually end up as single Mpop cornN buds that
never truly mature, so it is best to remove them at an early stage.
Abserve the growth and remove any branch that has long internodes=the space
between the nodes> and any branch that stays significantly lower than the main
shoots. These branches will get very little light and they will also have a hard
time finding their way up to the well lit area. .any growers end up removing
almost all the growth underneath the 0crA- net. They usually only leave the fan
leaves intact until the plant drops them by itself after the energy has been
465
recovered.
$hen it comes to removing leaves material opinions vary, some growers remove
leaves and others, chose not to. There is no positive effect really from removing
leaves. Eeep in mind that fan leaves are the primary location for photosynthesis
and that the plant also stores surplus energy in them. Hy removing the leaves
you do double harmJ you handicap the plants ability to produce vital energy and
simultaneously you also remove the energy that has already been stored for
future use. :urthermore, although it cannot be observed with the naked eye,
light actually passes through the leaves and that is why some of the lower
growth stay green throughout the entire grow. It is better to tuck or tie the
leaves under the canopy so that light reaches more bud sites, or alternatively
cut the leaves in half.
)nother thing important thing you must understand is that there is a hormonal
response in plants to being wounded. This includes a growth inhibitor called
asmonic acid. It tells the plant to favor defense over growth. The more you
remove at any given time, the greater the response. It is therefore wise to trim
the plants gradually all through flowering, instead of removing all the growth at
once. This hormone also plays a part in regulating the formation of trichomes,
and that is probably why a little bit of stress is thought to increase potency.
There is however a difference between stress and torture, a healthy plant will
always produce more bud than a plant that has been severely handicapped.
0ince most of the photosynthetic activity takes place in the fan leaves, the buds
themselves do not need light. In other words, bud sites are activated by light
when it hits the node but the energy is produced and transported to the buds
from the leaves. This is where a 0crA- net comes in handyJ you can tie down
the leaves without removing them and thereby allow more light to reach the
buds while no energy is lost. 0ometimes you do not have a choice and must
remove some of the growth in order to ensure that you get a good harvest. It
all depends, some plants respond well to rigorous pruning but in general I
would advise that you keep it to a minimum=since there are optional methods to
removing the leaves altogether>. The rules of pruning are a bit different when it
comes to 0A- grows as you might have to remove some of the fan leaves
because the plants are packed so close together.
466
The best advice is to watch your plants closely and adapt your techni@ue and
grow style according to the needs of the plant. Dothing is set in stone when it
comes to growing. )ll grow rooms are different and so is each strain of
cannabis. In fact every plant is different from the ne7t so you will have to try
out what works best for you and your plants.
InAD/tai) 5runin!
0o now that you have a general overview of pruning let#s ump right into the
finer intricacies of a proper cannabis prune. !runing is probably one of the
easiest, most effective ways to improve the @uality and siBe of your harvest
yield. $hen you prune your mariuana plants they produce fewer, but much
bigger buds. 8epending upon the genetics of your plants and your goals for
harvest you should determine the type and style of the trim. ) lot of hard work
goes into pruning and stalking plants, but it results in bigger, higher grade buds
that re@uire less manicuring.
0ome growers argue that pruning will stunt the plants growth and may even
produce more males do to the stress of removing branches. However, pruning
has shown itself to be a helpful techni@ue in increasing yield and keeping plants
short and out of sight. If you choose to prune use sharp, clean scissors to snip
the branch. $here you cut the branch two new branches will grow from that
point. Dever take off more than si7 inches when pruning. If you follow the
guidelines below you will ensure a safe, healthy prune for your plants that
ensures nothing but benefit for your cannabis.
Hefore we begin, a few tips. )lways use clean steriliBed cutting tools for pruning.
) pair or pruners, a raBor, or scissors are e7cellent choices. It is always better to
use a tool to prune your plants, than to simply pluck off the growing tips by
hand. 0anitiBe your instrument in between cuts by dipping them in rubbing
alcohol. 8uring your pruning, the open wounds on your plant are 2&'(
susceptible to diseases and pest infestations. $ash your hands before and after
you prune every time.
'A2NING7 Do not us/ an, too)s t"at "a0/ b//n us/d outsid/ 6or
-runin! indoors. 5runin! instru8/nts us/d outdoors "a0/ /0/r,t"in!
467
ran!in! 6ro8 s-id/r 8it/s to 6un!us s-or/s.
8o not prune up to a month before you trigger flowering. !runing diffuses
hormones, which interferes with and hinders the flowering process. !eak
maturation is greatly delayed. It takes about one full month for hormones to
build up again to their original pre*pruned levels.
(ou will want to keep an even top garden profile to ensure ma7imum light
absorption. The siBe and shape of your plants can be changed by pruning and
training. Dot only will this optimiBe light e7posure but it also ma7imiBes side
growth. !runing is the process of trimming the stems back to change the plants
shape. Here the grower will pinch the plants between his fingers. Training is the
practice of bending the stems and tying them with twine in order to change
their shape and growth pattern.
)lso please keep in mind pruning depends solely on your plant#s growth pattern
and siBe. There are benefits to DAT pruning your plants. The hormones are
allowed to concentrate in the tips of branches and leaves causing your buds to
grow better. .ost commercial growers do not prune at all when growing a short
clone crop that at it#s ma7imum height only reaches about 1*4 feet tall=96*
<6cm>. The reason is because shorter clone crops don#t need pruning for
increased light e7posure to bottom leaves or better air circulation. 0o if you#re
growing short crops, you most likely don#t have to prune and your crop will
benefit.
The bottom fan leaves of the plant are used to absorb and soak up light for your
plants optimal flourishing growth. D&2&' +GT (AG' :)D ;&)2&0"" 'emoving
large fan or shade leaves doesn#t make your plant more productive" They
contain glucose and chlorophyll that is used in bud production. +utting away fan
leaves will greatly stress your plant and deplete it#s food stores thus severely
stunting your growth and bud siBe.
Not/7 T"/ on), ti8/ it 8a, b/ acc/-tab)/ to cut a$a, a 6an )/a6 is i6 it is b)oc9in!
)i!"t 6ro8 r/ac"in! a bud 8ass on anot"/r -)antC or i6 t"/ )/a6 is d,in! or burnt.
A)$a,s t"ro$ a$a, ,our d/ad )/a0/sC n/0/r )/a0/ t"/8 n/ar ,our soi) or -)ants as
t"/, can attract -/sts.
468
'ememberJ keeping your steriliBed cutting tools clean while pruning is very
important. To easily do this ust take a sharp raBor blade and scrape off all the
resin and e7cess. (ou may need to do this several times during one pruning
session. )fter you are done scraping all the resin, take some alcohol and pour it
on a paper towel. Then wipe down the instrument. This ensures clean, sterile,
healthy precise cuts.
o$/r Gro$t"7 The first most commonly used pruning techni@ue is to remove
lower spindly branches and growth that do not receive light, including burnt
dead or dying leaves. ) great benefit of pruning the lower branches is that it
concentrates au7ins into the upper branches which forces growth rapidly
upwards. 8oing this your plant will direct its energy into buds, producing @uite a
rich dense harvest for you to enoy.
+lip any small buds and branches under the canopy, along with any less
developed branches. The best way to make cuts when pruning is at a /5*degree
angle. This will reduce any moisture that wants to sit and accumulate on plant
wounds. +ut the lower branches off as clean as you can so no stub is left. 0tubs
rot and attract disease L pests. Huds under the canopy that are small do not
mature well and leech energy from the upper buds.
Insid/ 5runin!7 0ome more basic pruning methods include removing the
spindly branches and growth inside your plants. This will allow for much better
air circulation and light e7posure for the deeper parts of your plant. )nother
techni@ue is completely cutting off the top of the plant below the first set or two
of branches. This will drive hormones to the lower branches and flowers.
5runin! T"/ Ti-s7 )nother is to prune off the tip of plants, this will redirect
hormones and cause the lower branches to grow more. &ach and every time a
growing tip is clipped, the stem branches into two shoots, which begin to grow
from the nearest leaf a7ils. !runing a growing mariuana plant is an easy way of
controlling uneven growth without seriously harming the plant. 8on#t prune the
growing tip of a young seedling until after the first five*bladed leaves have
formed and the vegetative stage has begun.
Not/7 I6 ,ou $ant to 8a9/ ,our -)ant ta))/r ,ou can -run/ a)) t"/ ti-s on a)) t"/
branc"/s.
469
.any growers prune the growing tips after four to five weeks growth to develop
lower branches which will @uickly fill all the horiBontal space. The greatest
potency of the growing plant is found in the growing tips, and by three months,
they should make a high @uality smoke. (ou can basically prune growing tips at
any stage of the plant#s development, but ust make sure you don#t overdo it.
0evere pruning can harm the growth of the plant. It is always better to plan a
pruning strategy for your developing plants rather than haphaBardly clipping off
growing tips on an irregular basis. &ach time a growing tip is removed the plant
takes a few days to recover before new growth resumes on that branch.
The amount of new growth formed with continued pruning is limited by the
genetic structure of the seed and the environmental conditions. It is better to
prune your plants at an early stage of their development, than towards the end
of the vegetative stage or during flowering. It#s always much better to prune
growing tips in the morning than in the evening, as it gives the plant a full day
to recover and heal the wounds.
It is not recommended that you prune every new node in a developing plant.
'ather prune every second or third node to allow the plant time to recover. $ait
for the new node to start growing before clipping the young branch a few
millimeters above the previous node#s newly formed leaves.
8o not prune any growing tips if you notice that your plant#s health is declining
and it has started losing leaves. This is a bad idea"
)lthough you could always smoke the pruned growing tips, plants should be
pruned to develop their growth rather than for smoking purposes. !runing all
the branches or removing more than 15P of the foliage in a short amount of
time greatly stresses your plants and will hamper your harvest.
$hile it may be tempting to prune female buds during early flowering, your
harvest will be severely hindered by doing so. +annabis Indica is a genetically
smaller and more bushy plant than +annabis 0ativa and usually re@uires less
pruning. Dever prune more than the single growing tip, or upper*most node,
from any branch on the growing plant.
470
To grow seedless mariuana, you should remove all the male plants as soon as
they are discovered, by pruning the main stem right above the ground if grown
in soil, or removing the plant from a hydroponic garden. )lthough it may be
better developed, a pruned mariuana plant does not always produce more buds
than an unpruned plant. )nother good reason for pruning is to take cuttings
from a strong growing, favorite plant for further hydroponic development.
.ariuana growers often prune their plants in an attempt to limit their height
and prevent unwanted detection.
5runin! Bor +or8on/s7 !runing your plant will redirect growth hormones.)
great way to trigger this beneficial hormone redirection process is to cut the
meristem=top growth tip, aka the central stem> of a cannabis plant it will cause
hormonal balances to shift by causing greater concentrations of au7ins in the
lower branch tips. To do this you would remove this central main stem ust
above the four lowest=main> branches. 0ince this is the plant#s main central
growth leader, removing it will concentrate floral hormones into the four
remaining branches e7ploding your growth there. $hen you have fewer
branches on your cannabis crop, they become stronger, get plenty of light, and
grow a larger @uantity of dense heavy flower tops.
The upper*most growing tip of an unpruned mariuana plant will always be
more potent that the top buds of a pruned plant grown in similar conditions.
!runing the tallest branches ensures that the lower branches grow upwards,
forming a larger surface area for the light to cover. The clear fluid that often
flows from the end of a newly pruned branch, contains substances which seal
the wound and aid the healing process. )lthough it is recommended that you
remove all dying leaves from the plant, you should resist the temptation to
prune too many healthy leaves.
)n alternative to pruning for developing growth, is to bend the tops of the
branches over and tie the growing tips down with string or wire. 'emember that
by pruning a growing tip, you are removing the most potent part of the plant,
thereby spoiling it#s chance of reaching full maturity. Hy pruning all the buds at
harvest time, rather than cutting the stem off above the ground, you could
easily harvest your plant a second time. Hy severely pruning your mariuana
plants you are lowering their resistance to harmful natural enemies such as
471
insects, fungus and frost. (ou can make a great cup of tea, by chopping up
some pruned growing tips and soaking them in boiled water for a few minutes.
+annabis is a very hardy and adaptable plant, and will endure serious harm to
it#s leaves, branches and stem before it dies.
If this is your first crop you#ll understand much better what you want once
you#ve watched a plant through its entire life cycle. )lso keep in mind many
growers who have a large amount of grow space and proper lighting might not
even have to prune.
472
To--in!
Ane week into flowering you can top your plants. Topping the plants allows you
instead of getting one bud top cola, to get T$A big fat ones. This little trick is
accomplished by pruning the main top cola in order to get it to split into two or
more plants, but be warned, depending on your strain you may hit the ackpot
and it#ll split off into two huge big bud rich top colas, or two tiny little itty*bitty
ones.
Hy removing the main shoot located on the central stem you will encourage the
plant to grow into a bush with a lot of shoots, instead of one big main shoot
that you get on the untopped M+hristmas treeN.
473
The reason why the plant behaves this way is because the centre of growth
control is located in the apical meristem or main shoot. The main shoot sends
suppressive hormones down to the lower or a7illary shoots which stops them
from growing. This is called apical dominance. This mechanism does not stop
the lower branches from growing but as long as the main shoot is intact it will
be largely favored. Hy removing the main shoot, the branches beneath it
become free to grow at full rate in order to take its place.
The main shoot also has other functions. It communicates with photosensitive
pigments, called phytochromes which are located in the leaves. :lowering in
plants is triggered by two thingsJ the first part of the system is called the
+ircadian rhythm which is basically an internal biological clock. This biological
clock is basically an evolutionary response to light and darkness and is closely
linked with hormonal functions in the plant.
The second part involves hormone signaling mechanismsJ messenger molecules
and specifically encoded proteins that tell the plant to start budding based on
the information that it receives from the environment. The plant knows when to
trigger flowering because the sensory pigments keep track of the
photoperiod=or the hours of daylight> and relay this information to the centre of
growth control which is located in the main shoot. The sensory pigments also
inform the plant of how much sunlight a certain part of the plant receives. This
enables it to relocate energy and growth hormones to e7actly where they are
needed.
There are several types of hormones that regulate growth. Ane of the most
important growth hormones is called au7in. It originates in the main shoot and
is part of a mechanism called the au7in transport system. This hormone plays a
big part in the internal signaling and growth control mechanisms of a cannabis
plant. )u7in also serves to regulate the formation and behavior of other growth
hormones that are responsible for everything from root growth to the formation
of flowers.
474
Hy removing the main shoot, the communication between the leaves and the
main shoot ends, effectively canceling the apical dominance. The result is that
the plant assigns the ne7t shoots in line to the ob. This means that the smaller
shoots on the branches beneath the cut starts growing faster and gain siBe.
0ince there is no more apical dominance, the plant will grow into a bush
because the newly appointed main shoots all have e@ual priority. These shoots
usually grow very slowly when the plant is left untopped so it is probably best to
top the plant at night when most of the hormones have been sent to the roots
which means that there is a smaller chance of the plant being stunted after the
main shoot has been removed.
475
There will be a short period of time when the plant is in something that could be
called a state of confusion. It will stop all activity until it can figure out what is
going on, so to speak. It will resume vegetative growth as soon as the hormonal
functions are up and running again. It should take no more than a few days for
this to happen, a week at the most.
.ost of the time this transition is @uite fast but some plants that respond poorly
to topping might have stunted growth for a while. It is possible to top a plant
many times, each time the number of main shoots will double. -ive your plants
some time to grow before you top them, if they are topped too early they might
get stunted for a while. .any growers top them @uite early. -o by your feeling,
once the plants look strong enough you can start topping and training them.
This is a good way of training the plant if one wants to make the most out of
the space available Topping is also a good way of slowing down plants that tend
to stretch a lot, as each time the plant is topped it will redirect energy to a
greater number of shoots. The new shoots will never grow as large as the
untopped main shoot will but they will most likely produce a larger crop.
There is also a techni@ue called :I. topping=more on this below in its#
appropriate section>. Hy leaving a small portion of the growth on the main shoot
intact, the plant will assume that four shoots, instead of two, are the main
shoots and they will grow evenly in height. The success of this method is usually
up to the luck of the draw but in order to up your odds you should make the cut
circular so that the remaining tissue forms a McupN.
Not/7 T"/ sa8/ r/su)t can "o$/0/r b/ ac"i/0/d b, to--in! t"/ -)ant t$ic/.
Topping is actually @uite easy. :ollow the main stem from the roots, all the way
up to the top, and with a clean pair of scissors snip the top. Do matter what you
have heard topping is not clipping off bud tops. (ou#re only removing about 4F/
of the top growth tip. This will cause the plant top to split into two tops. This
techni@ue can be used to produce up to about / tops on a plant.
476
(ou will also want to cut away any leaves that are growing too close that block
the lower fan leaves from getting ade@uate light. In addition, cut away the
lower unnecessary leaves to make for long stems, this will ensure ma7imum air
circulation=a much better e7change of +A1 and A7ygen>.
Topping is essential when growing 0ativa mariuana seeds strains in small closet
or other limited indoor grow space.
To--in! (t/-AB,A(t/-7
!lease refer to the diagram on the ne7t page for further clarity.
(t/- 1? ;ocate the very top of your plant and cut through the main stem ust
below the newest growth. This should be done after the 4rd or /th leaf set but
can be done at any time after the 4rd leaf set.
(t/- %? 0hows !lant Top cut off and where the 1 new Hranches that will form a
Q(Q in the main stem will grow from.
(t/- 3? 0hows the newly topped plant after 1 days of growth, notice the ( in
the 0tem :orming.
477
Bi!ur/ 1. To--in! (t/-s 1C %C and 3.
478
Trainin!:5runin! Bor a o$/r 5ro6i)/
If you#re growing in a confined space most cannabis plants will overgrow the
space within a few weeks. Here is a method to train and prune your cannabis
for a lower profile.
Mat/ria)s7
*) length of earthing wire.
*0ide cutters or wire cutters.
*) number of self tapping screws.
*) !hillips screwdriver.
&arthing wire is available cheap at most electrical supply stores and hardware
stores. This is thick copper wire used for earthing certain electrical devices. It
has a soft rubber coating on the outsideJ the copper is malleable enough to be
formed into whatever shape is re@uired and doesn#t lose it#s shape very easily.
The first step is to bend your wire to get it as close to the shape below as
possible.
The stake can then be removed and repositioned to again train the main growth
tip downwards. The lower branch growth accelerates and can also be trained
using the stake method. This again reduces the overall profile of the plant.
Training continues into flowering until the males have been identified and
removed to leave the females to be trained into a screen. The plants can then
effectively be controlled using 0crog techni@ues to ma7imiBe light efficiency and
yield.
479
E4a8-)/7
This plant has been vegging for appro7imately 1? days and is appro7imately <
inches in height, on its eighth node.
This ne7t picture shows where this crook is placedO
It is positioned above the first or second node with the other end of the wire
laying against the top of the plant#s pot. $here it touches the pot, a self tapper
is screwed in as high as possible. This is to reduce the likelihood of a leak when
watering. The wire can then be cut to length and wrapped around the self
tapper.
480
This picture shows the trunk tie in placeO
It#s wrapped off to the self tapper to a length where the tie is tight against the
main stem to keep it vertical.
In this image you can see the gentle bending of the main growth tip over in the
opposite direction to the main trunk tieO
This must be done progressively to avoid snapping the main stem off. ) small
break in the stem isn#t a problem as the plant will recover.
Not/7 I6 it do/s br/a9 o66 co8-)/t/),C )/a0/ t"/ -)ant1 It ta9/s a $//9 to !/t o0/r
t"is s"oc9 but t"/, t"/n r/act as an, to--/d -)ant $ou)d.
481
This image shows the second length of wire, again with a crook in one endO
This time it is used as a stake to pull and hold the main growth tip in place. The
crook is placed under the fan leaf stems of the upper most node, with the other
end of the stake being pushed into the soil about an inch or two.
There must be sufficient distance between the top of the growth tip and the
stake crook. This is to stop the main growth tip from popping out from the
crook of the stake. The distance the stake is pushed into the soil determines
how low the growth tip is trained. It must be trained to below the ne7t node or
further for ma7imum increase in lower branch growth and reduction in profile.
This image shows the trained main growth tip with the trunk tie and stake to
hold it in placeO
482
This effectively reduces the vegging plant from an eight to a four inch profile.
The final pic shows the plants after 61 hours of H!0 lightO
They have all shifted the top half of their profile towards
the light and e7posed all the lower growth shoots. This
gives them ma7imum e7posure to the light and therefore
potential for growth.
T"/ 5a-/rc)i- T/c"niDu/
This ne7t low stress training techni@ue offers many benefits for your cannabis...
483
B/n/6its o6 t"/ 5a-/rc)i- T/c"niDu/7
&ffectively controls the height.
)llows more light to reach the centre of the plant.
0hoots grow vertically off the stems.
0timulates stem growth by bending the stems=stresses the inner
herd, causing it to grow thicker and stronger>.
-reatly increases overall plant yield.
The process starts early in your mariuana plants life cycle. Anly begin paperclip
training when you have either :I., pinched, or topped your plants.
The first step is to bend some paperclips straight out * they will be about 4N in
length. De7t, bend the first T inch into a hook so you have what resembles a
candy cane=yummm>. Hend the stems down parallel with the medium. +arefully
snip offending leaf out of the way. It#s more important for the plant to spend
energy growing new tips than larger leaves right now.
$hen the bent tip of the plant has made the turn and is growing vertically
again, it#s time to move the clip further up the stem to keep the tip oriented
horiBontally. Train the stems parallel with the medium until you want to initiate
flowering.
$hen you do finally decide to trigger flowering, all this training will pay off.
$hat would have normally been your tiny and airy bottom buds will now turn
into nice heavy thick TH+ rich colas.
484
BIM >BXXX I Miss/d1?
:I. is performed in order to limit plant height and encourage lateral branching.
This techni@ue and others like it=0A-, 0crA-, ;0T, Topping>, are especially
beneficial, when growing under artificial lightingJ which has very limited
penetrationFcapability. It#s a good idea to keep your plant growth within the
penetration area of your lamp for ma7imum potency and yields. :or many
modern growers, :I..ing is much more preferable to topping.
:I..ing isn#t hard, it#s simply pruning the growing tip of a plant=ust like
topping> but if you do it wrong, you#ll soon discover why the cannabis
community coined this little techni@ue M:bck I .issed"N
Bor C)ari6ication7 Topping is the removal of the growing tip at or above the
1nd or 4rd visible node, whereas :I..ing is the removal of the uppermost
growing tip above the uppermost visible node * this growing tip is only visible,
and accessible, if you part the tender new fan leaves. +lean fingers, a knife
point, or a pair tweeBers works well for this.
Not/7 '"/n doin! -)ant sur!/r, a)$a,s start $it" c)/an "andsC and saniti=/d
/Dui-8/nt.
:I. pruning needs to be done during the plant#s vegetative cycle. :I. is a great
way to prune the plant in order to get more branches. :I. is different than
topping. $hen you top, you chop the whole node off cleanly hoping for the stalk
to split in to two. $hen you :I., you cut so that the vegetation that is left has
cells that are rapidly dividing in many different directions. This can lead to as
many as &I-HT tops from a single pruning. $hen you :I. you take away <?P,
leaving 6?P intact. :orce vigorous plants=preferably 0ativas> to do lateral
branching earlier by reducing amount of leaves on the plant, before you :I..
485
BIM (t/-AB,A(t/-
(t/- 1? ;ocate the very top of the new growth

Bi!ur/ 1. Cr/dit7 M B)a=/
486
(t/- %? $ith a clean steriliBed scissors, :old the fan leaves over and cut
appro7imately 3?P of the new growth off the plant.
Bi!ur/ %. Cr/dit7 M B)a=/
487
(t/- 3? 2iew from the top showing the +ut.

Bi!ur/ 3. A6t/r t"/ Cut +as B//n Mad/ A Cr/dit7 M B)a=/
488
(t/- 4? 2iew of the +ut section after 1 days growth, showing the / new growth
shoots=branches>.

Bi!ur/ 4. Cut A6t/r % Da,s o6 Gro$t" A Cr/dit7 M B)a=/
Thats it" (ou should be well on your way to Topping and :imming of your
plants.
The following picture is an e7ample of a plant that is properly :I..&d and
;0Ted. )s you can see this plant already has lots of branching, which will
become the new tops. )s you can see the tiny growing tip was removed, while
leaving the precious fan leaves intact, and that#s what constitutes a proper
:I..ing.
489
Bi!ur/ .. A (ucc/ss6u) BIM 3 Cr/dit7 Gr//n Cross
This ne7t photo is a decent graphical image that has been floating around the
cannabis cultivation community for @uite some time, but it is wrong. $here it
says Q:I.. cut locationQ is DAT where you want to cut" :irst you want to gently
spread the tiny Qnew set of fan leavesQ out of the way, find the actual growing
tip, and then make then nip it out. Anly then can you be sure you are pruning
out the growing tip, while at the same time preserving the surrounding growth.
490
J/,s to A (ucc/ss6u) BIM7
6. +leanliness
1. 0eparate the new growth=fan leaves> using your fingers, knife tip, tweeBers,
or whatever works best for you.
4. ;ocate the growing tip * that would be the main stalk AD;( where it says to
cut, in the above pic.
/. Gsing a very small knife, scissors, or clean finger nails, carefully remove the
growing tip, while being careful not to clip the surrounding growth. He especially
careful if attempting this with a raBor blade, because they have a way of cutting
491
through more than you intended. 'emember, %ust cutting through the
uppermost growing tip is a terrible idea at best, and you#re liable to cut the new
fan leaves, which isn#t good for your bud growth.
:I. isn#t much different than topping, but it#s less drastic =stress>, and leaves
more au7in#s, and more nodes. :I. gives you more natural growth, and
stronger branching, and it doesn#t limit you to 1 tops as topping does. I also
understand some people are getting / tops using the old topping techni@ue, but
to achieve that result, you need to top at a specific time, or node. There are no
restrictions using :I. * to get multiple tops * other than the normal onesJ never
prune a seedling, or a plant in flower.
Bus"in!
.any growers like to keep their plants small and wide. It#s fairly easy to achieve
this. 8uring the 4
rd
week of vegetative growth prune half the plants branches
and leave the other half. 5?P is the amount you want to prune, any more or
any less than that and you might end up stunting your plants growth. !rune all
over, not ust one side to get it to 5?P. De7t step is to wait until the 5
th
week of
vegetative growth and then rune the remaining 5?P. Anly proceed to do this if
your previous prune cuts have grown new leaves and branches. )t around the
5
th
week of vegetative growth you will begin to see your plant take a liking for
growing outwards instead of upwards.
B/ndin!
)nother way of modifying your cannabis plant#s hormones in order to
manipulate its harvest @uality is by utiliBing a techni@ue known as MbendingN.
The effect bending has is that it neutraliBes the effects of growth*inhibiting
hormones. (ou can also limit the height of your plant=training> using bending.
Hending, although very similar to pruning, and is much less stressful on plants.
;imiting the height of your plants by using bending is an art form in and of
itself. Here we have the art of tying down your plants main stem so it grows in
an #0# shape, preventing the plants from reaching their natural height without
having to worry about pruning=you can still prune if you need to, don#t worry>.
492
0imply put, bending is when you lean a branch in the desired direction and tie it
into place. The process is fairly simple. Take a small string or thread and attach
it to the stem, then bend the plant over. (ou then need to lock the string down
to another part of your plant or to the grow room frame. (ou can really make
this an art form. 0ome growers make corkscrews, circles, various #0# shapes etc.
'A2NING7 DO NOT ti/ ,our strin! too ti!"t),111 I6 ti/d too ti!"t),
around ,our st/8 t"/ )iDuids cannot 6)o$ and d/at" or r/tard/d
!ro$t" 8a, r/su)t.
He creative" Hranches are tough and can take a lot of bending stress before they
break or fold over. Eeep in mind younger branches are prime candidates for
bending than older stiffer ones.
DoteO &ven though cannabis can take a lot of abuse=it really is a tough plant>,
you want to be very gentle when bending.
Here#s a cool tipO .any growers like to bend their branches to ensure ma7imum
light e7posure. ) key e7ample of this is bending the branches horiBontally so
that the buds grow vertically towards the light source. Hecause the buds all
receive much more light, they will turn into a very generous top.
493
o$ (tr/ss Trainin! >(T?
;ow 0tress Training is a techni@ue where a plant is trained through the use of
ties or ropes. The idea is that you use a support rope at the base of the plant
pulled one direction and another tied to the top pulling it down in a different
direction. &very couple of days the top will be pointing upward again while
au7ins=branching hormones> reach the other nodes. &ach time the top pulls up
above the other branches the top rope should be moved up and the top pulled
down. +ontinue doing this until the top does not pull above the other branches.
494
Hushes are ideal plants to grow for anyone who has a small HI8 flower light
=under /?? watts> or uses fluorescents. 0maller lights and fluorescents emit the
most intense light for only a short distance, so keeping as much vegetative
growth in the lights sweet spot is a must to make your lights most efficient.
0crA- growers take ma7imum advantage of this by weaving tops through a
screen so only tops are e7posed to the light. $ell, training attempts to achieve
the same goals only with a less work intensive method that will make more use
of your small lights limited effectiveness.
Not/7 To--in! and (u-/r Cro--in! ar/ /4a8-)/s o6 +i!" (tr/ss Trainin!.
Topping and ;0T training work @uite well together but it#s not necessary to top
the plant in order to start the ;0T training. 0ome people prefer to leave the
plant untopped and tie down the main shoot at ground level instead. This will
have the same effect as topping it because once again, the centre for growth
control located in the main shoot will dictate how the plant grows. $hen the
main shoot is tied down, all shoots above it will grow more rapidly as the plant
now assumes that these are the main shoots.
$hen it comes to mariuana growing, ;0T refers to a particular type of low
stress training. It appears on the outside=and to the untrained eye> that the
training of a plant is simply teaching a plant to be short and grow lots of buds.
It is much more important and involved than that.
Topping the plants is actually done for similar reasons that ;0T is done. &ven
though it is a completely different method. It, too, is a form of training =a high
stress one>.
'", (T 'or9s
Ane of the crucial things you need to understand about ;0T is au7ins. If you
don#t understand how au7ins affect your mariuana plant, then you are ust
putting strings on your plant so they look like other plants in pictures. )u7ins
are plant hormones that interact with other plant hormones to form the Qplant
nervous systemN, so to speak. )u7ins are used to help stimulate nearly all facets
of plant growth.
495
)u7ins are used to help promote new root growth and is often part of what is
used in rooting compounds or rooting hormones that are so popular in
mariuana horticulture. There has also been various scientific studies that
indicate that levels of au7ins also influence the se7 of a mariuana plant. 0ome
research has also indicated that levels of au7ins also play a role in the ways
flowers mature on a plant.
.ost of all, au7ins in mariuana plants are known for producing adventitious
buds along the stem and in the roots. )dventitious is sort of like it soundsO it#s
the QadventurousQ part of the plant that sprouts when the plant is wounded or
trained.
.ore au7ins is good when it comes to mariuana rightC" $ell, no, not in this
case. )u7ins are most concentrated and synthesiBed at the apical bud=the tip> of
the plant closest to the light. The rest of the plant has the ability to produce
496
au7ins, but the cells must be triggered to do so. Dow, although au7ins are
hormones essential for many facets of growth, it is also an inhibiting hormone
for the other buds further down the stem. This is to prevent the plant from
producing buds which may compete with the apical bud.
In other wordsJ The plant is very happy having one bud that it tries to stretch
as close as possible to its source of energy. It will do what it can to inhibit other
sprouts below it from becoming that bud as it would re@uire the plant to push
those sprouts up to that level again.
If you are still a bit confused, think of images of trees and picture the growth
that they have in a cone*shaped fashion. They are working to push the apical
bud up to the sky.
Dow that you understand what au7ins are and how they are important for
growth in mariuana, you can begin to understand how ;0T works and how to
utiliBie this cannabis cultivation techni@ue effectively.
+o$ (T 'or9s
$hen you top a plant, you are removing the apical bud=the bud closest to the
light> where most of the au7in is concentrated and synthesiBed. The plant
stresses itself out=high stress training> and eventually produces new sprouts
along the stem that will form new growth so that it can get a new apical bud
and send it soaring towards the heavens.
;0T is helping to stimulate that growth near the bottom but by tricking the plant
instead of chopping it. In nature, if something happens to a plant and the bud
that is closest to the light gets blocked, it will try to move around that
something. If it can#t, then eventually new growth will form lower along the
stem to try and send a new shoot out to head towards the light.
$hen you ;ow 0tress Train your plant, the reason that you are tying the tip of
the plant down is so that the plant gets confused. It is used to producing the
au7ins in the tip of the plant close to the light. However, because the tip of the
plant is pulled down to such a degree, it is not receiving light at the very tip like
497
it used to so it sends the au7ins down the stem to produce new sprouts to
become new apical buds=or so the plant hopes>.
This is why some people continue training as the plant gets older, but like to
start when the plant is new as au7in development starts with roots and
continues through all stages of the plant. +ontinued training of the plant is
helpful because, as you can imagine, each apical tip can be brought down to
promote new growth further down the stem. &very time you bring the tip down,
the plant will be fooled. )s new tips of the plant are reaching towards the light,
pulling them back down below <? degrees=or close to it> will make those au7ins
start to flow again. This can continue on and on.
Dow that you know how ;0T works, you ust know that you need to trick the
plant into thinking it#s highest tip is no longer its highest tip. It#s as simple as
that, but it is also as comple7
as you want it to be.
498
o$ (tr/ss Trainin! Conc)usion7
;0T can be done for all strains of mariuana
;0T is another way of alteringFstimulating the au7in hormone to produce
additional growth ust like other training methods.
;0T is not ust for training height.
Gnderstanding au7ins will help you understand ;0T better.
Not/7 Usin! co--/r $irin! inst/ad o6 strin! $"/n (TKn! is not on), /asi/r>t"/r/
ar/ no 9nots to ti/?C but it is 0/r, r/usab)/ b/caus/ t"/r/ ar/ no 9nots to unAti/.
499
o$ (tr/ss Trainin! (t/-AB,A(t/-
500
501
502
Air a,/rin!
)ir layering is a way to make clones from strains of plants that are difficult to
clone. )ir layering is taking a clone from a plant * it is removing part of a plant,
not adding too a plant, and not grafting onto a plant.
Air a,/rin! (t/-AB,A(t/-
(t/- 1? The first step is to select a branch you want to propagate from, come
down 61 inches from the tip of the branch and make two parallel cuts 6T
inches apart with a sharp steriliBed knife. 8ont cut through the branch, ust cut
deeply enough so the outside bark peels off=what youre going for is an e7posed
wound>.
(t/- %? De7t coat the e7posed area with rooting hormone to speed up the
rooting process. De7t you wrap the wound with moist sphagnum moss =or
potting soil>, then cover it with plastic wrap to form an airtight pouch. =This is
the hardest step K and it can be amusing ust trying to keep the moss from
falling off the limb while getting the plastic wrap securely around it. To make the
task a bit easier place the moss or potting soil in the plastic wrap first, then
wrap both around the wound at the same time.>
(t/- 3? Then put rubber bands around the ends of the plastic wrap. =0o now
you should have a ball of moss wrapped in plastic wrap around the wound.> (ou
cannot allow sunlight to strike the newly forming roots so you will need to cover
it with something. Hlack plastic cut from a trash bag will work but aluminum foil
is a better option in that it will not only block light it will also reflect some light
rays keeping the newly forming root*ball cooler.
(t/- 4? Then you wait =and wait>. To determine if a cutting is fully rooted,
periodically check it by removing the aluminum foil to see if roots have grown to
the edge of the plastic. Ance you know that the cutting is fully rooted, its time
to clip and then plant your baby plant as you would with any rooted clone.
503
Here are some graphical e7amples that will hopefully helpO
)boveO The first step to air layering. !ick a branch that is at least 6F3Q thick if
possible. 0crape away the outer layer of tissue, the phloem, below=or above and
below> a node, which is where a leaf, branch andFor bud will grow. This e7poses
the inner 7ylem and a layer called the cambium, which is from where the roots
will grow. ;eaving the inner 7ylem allows the clone to continue to draw water
and nutrients from the mother plant and root system. The clone will continue to
grow foliage, while simultaneously growing roots.
504
>+/r/ is a s"ot o6 t"/ roots d/0/)o-/d on t"/ c)on/C $"i)/ sti)) attac"/d
to t"/ 8ot"/r. T"/ st/8 o6 t"/ c)on/ is t"ic9/r abo0/ t"/ root sit/
b/caus/ o6 t"/ -")o/8 "a0in! b//n r/8o0/d. T"/ carbo",drat/s
cr/at/d b, -"otos,nt"/sis in t"/ )/a0/s nor8a)), tra0/)s do$n t"/
-)ant to t"/ roots 0ia t"/ -")o/8. B/caus/ t"is out/r )a,/r $as
r/8o0/dC t"/ carbs bui)d u- in t"/ st/8 abo0/ t"/ $ound.?
505
>+/r/Ks an att/8-t at air )a,/rin!. As ,ou can s// t"/ to- t$ist is ti/d
too ti!"t),C $"ic" is $", t"/ st/8 is so s9inn,.?
506
The wound site is wrapped in your choice of medium. 'ockwool is used in this
case. 0oil can also be usedJ a small s@uare of plastic wrap is taped around the
wound and soil is packed inside, forming a ball of soil ust like the rockwool
pictured. If using rockwool, ust cut the cube in half, put the two halves around
the wound, and wrap twist ties or string around the cube to hold it in place.
.ake sure to soak the rockwool in 5.5 pH water before using. The plastic
wrapper is left around the rockwool to help to retain moisture.
507
) better method of e7posing the cambium, making only 4 cuts with a steriliBed
scalpel or raBor blade. .ake two concentric cuts around the stem, ust deep
enough to go through the outer layer of tissue. +onnect the two cuts with one
vertical cut, and if done correctly the outer phloem should simply peel away.
508
>T"/ /4-os/d 4,)/8. You can s// t$o a)t/rnatin! nod/s ar/ /4-os/d.?
509
(u-/r Cro--in!
0uper cropping involves crushing of the soft inner tissue of the stem in order to
gain some control over the plantJs growth patterns, but the primary reason
grower#s super crop their cannabis is to drastically increase health, potency, and
harvest yield. This soft inner tissue is made up of cellulose and forms a network
of vascular tissue that can be divided into two groups, namely the 7ylem and
phloem. These two are responsible for the transport of water and nutrients
along the stem.
Hreaking the plant#s inner walls will induce a need for the plant to rebuild. The
plant will adapt to the stress by rebuilding the tissue stronger than before and
this is e7actly why this techni@ue can increase harvest siBe. $hile rebuilding the
tissue the plant e7pands on the network of cellulose, which is why the stem
grows thicker than before at the point where it was crushed. Think of it this
wayJ instead of having a two way street for water and nutrient transport, you
510
now have a multi*laned super highway.
If you pinch the main stem it will grow very thick, which will benefit the entire
plant. !inching the side branches will allow you to have more control over how
she takes shape. Thanks to the bend on the newly crushed branch you can now
redirect it in any way that you see fit. This will also allow more light to reach the
lower buds. 0ince the branch will grow stronger at the breaking point, it will also
be able to support more weight. The branches that are closest to the breaking
point will also grow stronger in order to compensate for the inury.
In this photo you can clearly see how the stem has grown stronger where the
vascular tissue was damaged and then repaired.
511
The idea here is to gain some control over the shape of the plant while
simultaneously drastically improving health and increasing harvest yield. !inched
plants usually grow into very healthy bushes with thick stems. 0uper cropping is
also a good way of getting several main colas * the pinched branches will
eventually grow so thick that the plant will treat them as if they were main colas
instead of secondary branches. The added stress that comes with super
cropping also tends to increase potency.
0uper cropping should be carried out during the second or third week of
vegetative growth. Take a branch between your forefinger and thumb and
proceed to pinch and twist at the same time until you feel the insides start to
collapse under the pressure of your fingers. 0lowly s@ueeBe and bend the stem
without snapping it. %ust s@ueeBe lightly until you feel the branch give, then let
go. The branch might droop for a while but that#s AE as it will heal over time.
512
0upercropping is based on a pretty simple principleO strong plants will become L
grow stronger and better if forced to endure certain types of stress. In this case,
that type of stress is breaking or crushing the inner husk of the meristem=In
0crA- you would be breaking a number of branches, not ust the meristem>.
Ance broken, the husk is given a week to recover in which time the stem
becomes thicker, growth becomes more vigorous, nutrient uptake increases, and
bud siBe as well. Techni@ue and timing is crucial, but it#s really @uite easy if you
know how. Here is an e7ample on how you would do it with a 0creen Af -reen
growO
)fter the clones have established themselves in the /Q 'ockwool cubes is the
time to very carefully begin. The first treatment will occur on the meristem
beneath the top grow shoot. To break the husk, you simply pinch the stem in
between your thumb and forefinger and gently crush it while simultaneously
movingFrubbing your fingers in opposite directions=it#s a good idea to gently
bend the cutting over so that the inury becomes more pronounced and the
clone wilts>. Hamboo poles come in handy for supporting healing and growth.
Dow the awesome part. (ou will surely begin to notice much more vigorous
growth over the ne7t few days, and the cuttings will really begin to take off.
)fter the initial wound is healed, and several new leaf nodes have grown=best
rule is when growth has doubled>, you may resume the process. Dow this time
working larger areas between the nodes, and leaving about a 1Q space between
each break. (ou can vary it a lot, making fairly large 4Q wounds, and then
several smaller breaks.
'A2NING7 Bor b/st r/su)ts it is C2ITICA t"at ,ou a))o$ ad/Duat/
r/co0/r, ti8/ to a))o$ ,our -)ants to "/a) -ro-/r),.
.any growers ask if hey need to change the techni@ue at all as the plant gets
larger, and the answer to that is both yes and no. (ou will continue to pinch and
twist the stem, but you also have to carefully listen for the sound of the husk
breaking to make sure you#re doing ade@uate damage to your plant. 8on#t
worry, it#s really not that hard. )fter a few tries you will master this awesome
little grower skill.
513
Eeep in mind that sometimes you will have to keep the plant in a vegetative
state a bit longer than usual as it takes the plant some time to repair the broken
tissue and redirect energy. It is probably best to choose either toppingF;0T
training or super cropping, as both techni@ues have the same purpose and
applying all of them at the same time might put the plant under too much
stress. !runing super cropped plants might however become necessary at some
point or the other in order to ensure that the plant is functioning at its full
potential.
If this techni@ue is applied correctly and with patience, the outcome will most
likely be a stronger, bushier plant and a greater harvest.
(ou#ll also find that even severe damage can be done to the stems without
affecting growth=as long as you are supporting it properly using the bamboo so
that the plant is not strangling itself>, and will in fact 8')0TI+);;( increase bud
weight in the end. 0ome of the largest colas I#ve seen have had horrible*looking
wounds all the way up the meristem. The key here is providing a proper
environment for recovery by allowing and giving them ade@uate time, using
proper support, and keeping food and environmental conditions at optimum
levels. )lso remember to re*break already broken areas once they have fully
healed.
Ance flowering is initiated and the clones begin to stretch, you should work
about every several inches up the meristem focusing on making large and small
wounds. Dot all the breaks should be e@ually traumatic. Try to keep it to one or
two severe breaks each treatment. (ou can probably up your food levels to
63??&+ right after you go to 61F61 since they will be eating ) ;AT to recover.
The treatment is to be repeated and continued until 4 weeks into bloom. (ou
will be pleased with the results. )lso note that additional support may be
necessary since the top colas of these supercropped plants become so large and
heavy that the rockwool cubes cannot support their weight and they end up
tipping and falling over creating a big mess. !acking Hydroton or rockwool
between your cubes might help keep them supported. The black plastic also
helps to keep the cubes in their place. If you are truly dedicated some
reinforced chicken wire would be optimal. This would also help to keep your
514
profile in check during the stretch.
Eeep in mind supercropping will cause a slight delay in harvest. The delay can
be anywhere from a few days to ust over a week. :ortunately the delay is
highly rewarding because the buds grow much larger than usual and have a
longer time to produce more resin. This is ust like some sativas which are so
richly potent and can be such massive yielders under natural light primarily
because they have such a long timeframe to flower and produce TH+ L bud.
The e7tra time is definitely worth it"""
But $"at i6 I "urt 8, -)ant@
Helieve me, you cannot and will not ruin your plants with supercropping. It is
not recommended for immature seedlings, but clones and mature plants can be
done without worrying about a thing. It#s completely safe ust as long as you
have something to properly support the plants in case you go overboard and
break the stem severely enough that the plant can no longer stand. This
actually turns out to be a good thing. (ou see once you tie the plant up to
stabiliBe it, it will immediately begin to heal, and a tough woody knob will
replace what was once flimsy, green stem. The best place to supercrop for 0A-
is the very bottom of the plant, and ust below your top cola. Hut of course you
can pretty much do it anywhere.
Ti/ U Train (u-/r Cro--in! (t/-AB,A(t/-
There are a few different ways one can go about super cropping other than the
basic method. )n alternative name for this techni@ue Im going to describe
would be Tie and Train, and I find it to be a lot like a 0crA-, but without the
screen, and they are similar in the way they create a mostly flat even canopy of
buds. This allows us to move the grow light closer to the top, obviously reducing
the loss of lumens through distance. )lso, this techni@ue cuts in half the amount
of plants needed to cover a given area.
0uper cropping relies on far fewer lateral buds growing vertically and more on
multiple colas in a small space. (ield on a supercropped plant will be gathered
from the length of the stem, light siBe dependent.
515
There are several ways to achieve a room of multi*cola plants forming an even
canopy. Ane way is to tie the plants tip to base for a week to induce lateral
growth, and a second way is to simply tie the plant over /5Y:=5.1Y+> early in
the vegetative stage of growth.
Ance lateral growth is achieved, and the tieing method is the only way to nearly
cease horiBontal growth from the mainstem, the branches are observed over the
course of a week or so to see which ones grow faster. These branches are
gradually tied to the outside of the planter. 0maller growing shoots either get
tied to the inside or made into clones or discarded. Abviously, we#re tieing the
faster growers to the outside so the smaller shoots can keep up with them
height wise.
61 plants from seed at 4 weeksO
I do employ the snapping of the hurd techni@ue, but only to lessen the
possibility of the stem folding or snapping when the tip is tied to base. 0o, pick
your spot in the middle of the plant. Gsing the thumb and forefinger from each
hand, slightly above and below the spot, counter*rotate your hands till you feel
a light breaking inside the stem. It may or may not happen. If it doesnt, dont
516
worry. Twist back and forth a few times to create a general loosening in rigidity
of the plant. It should lean a bit.
Take your tying material, =a 6?,??? foot roll of twine works good>, and circle it
loosely around the base and top of the plant. (ou want to pick a top node with
some decent siBed leaves =6Q+> on it to prevent the plant from slipping its bond.
They do try hard to do thisO
0lowly compress it down to the shape you see here and cinch the tie. ) bit of
pressure at the top of the circled stem will help prevent folding. If the stem
does fold, dont worry. It really doesnt appear to make a difference in the plant,
e7cept for the ease of tying it later. The plant $I;; recover as long as its not
severed, sometimes even to spite you, it seems.
517
(ou can see she badly wants to turn that grow tip towards the light. The week
in tie, through hormonal responses, forces the plant to stop primary growth
from this tip and focus on growing out all the branches at the nodes ust above
and below the tie. Gntil it is released of course, when the meristem once again
begins to receive a share, though not the main share anymore.
518
This is ust before releaseO
It has already almost resumed its vertical stance. Itll grow like this for a week
and then we#ll begin the tying for training. 0ee where the damage is and look at
the growth from the nodes under it compared to the growth above it.
519
(ou can clearly see the goal with this oneO
0tart with the countertie down low. It should be opposite of the way the stem is
leaning from the tie for training. :ar enough over that it is leaning in the other
direction. !ut the ne7t tie on the stem, above where the hurd was snapped. !ull
the plant over like shown. These ties will remain in place for the duration of the
grow, and may have to be adusted if the plant grows too far off of one side of
the planter. 0everal inches of movement in any direction from center is possible.
These two ties will also have to be watched carefully to make sure they dont
constrict the plant as it thickens. I use the twine because it has a lot of friction
520
against itself and a single 6F1 knot is all thats needed for most branches.
The first two ties are pictured hereO
)lready adusting to the new shapeO
521
Its has some ties in place already, but when your done there will be a ton more.
)ll the flower tops you see are at different heights before training.
This plant is several weeks olderO
522
)fterO
)ll tops that have been pulled over will reorient themselves toward the light in a
matter of hours. Theyll also be at the same height.
523
Here is a side by side of a different picture.
0ee the difference in the internode spacingC
0ome on the topped plants are /Q apart" The
tied ones clearly have nodes all the way down
the stem only an inch apart. (ou can also
clearly see where the topped plant was cut. If
this grower allowed the branches to grow
unfettered, they would easily be a foot or
more taller than the tied ones. Eeep in mind
these all had their training techni@ue
performed at the same time.

524
They do grow up to be pretty
similar even from seedO
The reason for doing all thisO
)n even canopy of buds ust a week from harvest. Thats it, another viable
alternative for small space andFor small light growers that want to ma7imiBe
yield.
525
Monst/r Cro--in!
.onster +ropping or :lowering +lones is another method of growing cannabis.
This method involves taking clones of flowering plants and then forcing them to
root and re*vegetate, which eventually leads to very bushy plants with a great
number of branches and nodes. This techni@ue has been coined .onster
+ropping within the community because that is e7actky what you will get, real
monster plants, but also because this method was introduced to the scene by a
grower named greenmonster56/. He in turn credits a grower named :eral for
discovering this techni@ue. There is a long legacy of these legendary growing
techni@ues to produce awesome frosty big buds...
Taking clones from flowering plants goes against all that has been said about
cloning cannabis and might therefore seem a bit confusing at first but the
science behind the techni@ue is sound, and the results really do speak for
themselves.
(ou start by taking clones of a plant that is about 16 days into flowering. This
seems to be the best time to do it but you can also takes clones at a later stage
with the same results. The lower branches make better clones as they have not
yet become rigid and will also root faster and more easily than say the top cola.
.ove the new cutting into a glass of water and let it sit for a while in order to
make sure that no air gets into the vascular system during handling, as this can
be fatal to your new plant. (ou should make the cut so that it runs along the
stem as this will increase the surface area for water and possibly nutrient
uptake, depending on what method of cloning you use. .any growers have
found that using a small hydroponic setup is by far the best way to clone
cannabis plants.
In the picture below, you can see how the clone from a flowering plant been
has placed in a propagation bubbler for rooting and re*vegging. This also means
that you will have to put the clone back under a veg light schedule of 63F9, 1?F/
or even 1/F?. +lones do not need strong light so a small +:; will do. (ou can
remove some of the buds at this stage in order to encourage the plant to revert
back into its vegetative cycle but leave the topmost flower alone.
526
It will take several weeks for the clone to root=some never do> so it is best that
you take a large number of clones at the same time. This will ensure that at
least one survives to make it on to the ne7t stage. It is also a good idea to place
the clones inside a humidity dome, which can be bought at gardening stores or
custom built for your specific needs. The high humidity=moisture> inside the
dome will make sure that the plants do not dry out and die. 2entilate the dome
every day ust to make sure that the plants don#t get attacked by mold.
Eeep in mind that the most important thing when it comes to cloning is to
provide the fresh cuttings with plenty of o7ygen and that is why the propagation
bubbler is so effective in this regard when compared to other methods.
527
The clones might be a depressing sight at first, but as soon as they root they
will immediately revert back into the vegetative stage and start growing again.
Ance the clones have rooted properly and started flourishing again, they will put
out single unserrated leaves at first=no worries * the normal leaves are soon to
follow>. It might be a good idea to apply some training at this stage, tying down
some of the tops will encourage even more branching. (ou can also provide
some heat underneath the clones as this will speed up the rooting process
considerably.
$hen the plant starts growing again, the incredible branching power of the
flowering clone becomes apparent.
528
)s you can see, this plant has grown into a real monster=and all this without
ever topping the plant">. That#s the beauty of this techni@ueJ you can forget all
about topping and :I.#ing since the flowering clone will sprout all these new
branches all by itself.
This plant is now perfectly suited for a 0crA- or perhaps even a 0A- grow. This
one plant can easily fill up an entire 0crA- net in no time. 0everal of these
plants grown in 0A- will definitely give you a grand harvest.
529
There are other benefits from using this techni@ueJ it also removes the need for
keeping mother plants. $hen the newly re*vegged plant is flowered, it can also
provide more clones for a perpetual harvest. 'ecycling at its best. This might be
of interest to those who need to keep down their number of plants.
Deedless to say, this method is highly effective thanks to the heavy branching
that occurs after a flowering clone is re*vegged. $ith further training and some
patience, you will get some real monster plants and thereby also an amaBing
monster of a harvest.
530
Co88on Gro$in! Mista9/s
Aftentimes people get e7tremely e7cited when they grow, and that#s perfectly
natural. $atching your tiny little seeds grow into huge flourishing crops is a
really fun process that stimulates a lot of positive emotions inside. Hut these
emotions can also cause many growers to overlook critical aspects of growing
and cause them to do some very stupid things that end up severely hurting their
grow. Helow I have listed the most common growing mistakes that people will
make during their first grow=and other more MadvancedN growers oftentimes
make these mistakes too">.
This section will save you loads of wasted time money, and effort. These
mistakes are made by first time growers and the more e7perienced mariuana
aficionados as well. Hy reading through this section you will have a through
understanding of what to do and what not to do in order to ensure a completely
successful, @uality, satisfying grow.
T"/ To- 11 Most Co88on Gro$in! Mista9/s
L1? Ta)9in! About T"/ir Gro$7 $eed growing can be e7tremely e7citing,
but new growers must force themselves not to tell anyone that they are
growing. $ord can easily spread like wildfire and their newfound hobby may
accidentally fall upon the wrong ears.
L%? (-/ndin! Too Muc" Mon/,7 Dewer growers fre@uently commit
themselves to unrealistic and e7pensive first grow setups even before they have
mastered the basics of cannabis cultivation. It is much more effective to learn to
grow properly on a basic setup and then invest in higher end e@uipment and
advanced growing techni@ues when you have no idea what the hell you are
doing. )n e7perienced kid with a eX6?? setup in his closet could grow better
pot than a newbie with an X35? )eroponic setup.
EeyO .aster the basics.
531
L3? O0/r Ana),=in!7 The first time grower will be like a mother with their first
born child. Dew growers commonly will watch every single little move their
newborn MchildN makes, and then freak out when something une7pected
happens. It is important to pay attention to your plants, but do not e7cessively
over*analyBe them. -rowers tend to worry and stress out at the first sign
something might be going wrong. It is important to pay close attention to what
happens during your grows, but do not try and find a remedy for every yellow
leaf or crooked stem. The remedy of flushing your medium causes more
problems than it solves. He responsive and intelligent when things go wrong,
but be conservative with your remedies. (ou don#t want to end up doing more
harm than good. 'emember it is technically a weed and is one of the easiest
plants to keep alive.
L4? Touc"in!:9i))in! G/r8inatin! (//ds7 Dewer growers tend to grow
e7tremely impatient during germination. )s you read in the -ermination section,
it can take up to 6? days for a seed to sprout. It is important to be delicate with
your seeds and follow the proper germinating instructions outlined in this guide.
L.? Gro$in! (//ds Bro8 (9/tc", (ourc/s7 Dewer growers tend to
purchase flashy e7travagant seed strains from underground @uestionable
internet sites or from various other risky sources. Gnless you are prepared for
possible disappointments dont use QunknownQ seeds. This is why so many
people recommend growers need to buy seeds from reputable seedbanks.
L6? O0/rA6/rti)i=in!7 Ah man. If there were two spots for number one then
this one might ust take the cake. 0o many gardens are ruined from this
mistake. ) general safety rule is to fertiliBe after first 1 spiked leaves appear. It
is also advisable to begin with [15P of the recommended label strengths and
work your way up. If the leaves suddenly twist or fold under, ;each and 0pray
with purified, distilled, or '.A. treated water for several days" 8ont fertiliBe your
plants every time you water=soil>" ) common watering schedule is to fertiliBe at
full strength, then water at half or @uarter strength. This prevents e7cess salt
buildup, leaf and root burn. In addition, dont water at full strength if the
medium is too dry K root burn can occur. )s a precaution, leach the plants with
lots of pure water appro7imately every 1*/ weeks.
532
)n all*too*common mistake for newbie growers when they reach the flowering
stage is to start hitting the plants with a high !hosphorus fertiliBers like 6?*9?*
6?, continuing to use this blend e7clusively, and when their plants start
e7periencing a deficit of Ditrogen or micros as reflected by the dropping of
lower leaves and chlorosis, they wonder why. !lants flower as a response to
long nights, not because of fertiliBer blends high in !hosphorus. ) ratio of 6?*
9?*6? is $)( too high in !hosphorus. The plant will only take what it needs and
compete for other elements that may be more important to it at the time.
(ou may have heard that too much Ditrogen can inhibit flowering. Do @uestion
about it, e7clusive use of a plant food that is rich in Ditrogen such as blood
meal, a 5*6*6 blend, or ammonium nitrate may inhibit flowering=especially if the
phosphorous level is low>, but most balanced blends have sufficient amount of
!hosphorus to do the ob. .anufacturersFhorticulturists will give you element
analysis and what effect the elements have on plant growth, but it is important
to remember that this does not necessarily mean you will get better yields.
Gsing a high !hosphorus fertiliBer e7clusively during flowering can actually work
against you. It#s an abundant amount of healthy leaves going into 61F61 that
produce a lot of bud, not high !hosphorus fertiliBers.
'otate fertiliBer blends as the plant Mre@uiresN them, not because it is Qthe thing
to do.Q :or e7ample, when your plants are going thru the stretch phase during
early flowering, they may need more Ditrogen, especially if you#re getting some
yellowing in the lowerFmid leaves. -ive up the cannabis paradigms, and give
them what they need. -o back to mild high !hosphorus fertiliBer when the
stretch ends, maintaining the foliage in a healthy state of growth until harvest
for ma7imum yields. ) 6*4*1 blend such as 6?*4?*1?, is one of the best
flowering blends on the market because of several factors * it is higher in nitrate
Ditrogen and .agnesium.

LR? Und/rA6/rti)i=in!7 This occurs much less than over*fertiliBing, but still a
2&'( common issue. This is common when growers become afraid to over*
fertiliBe their plants. If you are one of the overly concerned and prefer to give
the plant Must enough nutrientsN, then you can use an organic soil mi7ture with
blood meal and bone meal or some slow release fertiliBer with micro nutrients.
533
L#? 5ro0idin! A Bad Gro$t" En0iron8/nt7 Too many growers neglect the
basics of keeping a healthy grow environment to ensure flourishing cannabis
growth. )lways provide air circulation and fresh air even during the night cycle.
)s a general rule of thumb all the air indoors should be replaced every 5*6?
minutes to ensure optimal growth @uality. 'emember that even seedlings need
a gentle fan to strengthen the stems. 8o check for pests and fungus or any
other plant diseasesFabnormalities daily and handle accordingly. $hen doing
this many newbie growers never check underneath their leaves surface, and this
is +'ITI+);.
L&? +ar0/stin! Too Ear),7 This is such a common mistake it#s not even
funny. 8id you know that 15P of the weight will form in the last 1 weeksC
$hen flushing begin with 6??P pH balanced water when the pistils are 15P
brown. Harvest when the plants have +A.!;&T&;( 0TA!!&8 -'A$ID- and
the white pistils are at least 5?*55P brown.
L1*? O0/rA$at/rin!7 'arely do first time growers under*do )D(THID-, it#s
not their fault, they are ust being too eager. Aver*watering commonly kills
many poor unsuspecting mariuana plants. $hen you first put soil in your plant
lift it up to see how heavy it is, now remember how light it was and this will
gauge you for the rest of the grow. Ance the seed is in place water the plant
and lift it again. )s a general rule water only once the top few inches of the soil
dries out. )s soon as you pot your plant, udge its weight dry by lifting. Then,
water the plant thoroughly until the water runs through the drain holes. ;ift it
again. $hen your pot feels as nearly as light as it did dry, it is time to water
again. Hydroponics systems are harder to over*water than soil, mainly due to
the abundance of water roots. $hen 'ockwool is in combination with a
hydroponic systemJ it has such e7cellent drainage properties. )s long as the
rockwool cubes are not sitting in li@uid it is virtually impossible to over water a
hydroponic setup. ) hydroponic setup could either be watered constantly as the
drip method, or once to three times a day as in the flood and drain method.
534
L11? (tartin! Too Ear),7 This is bad for several reasons" If you are starting
outdoors %une 6
st
is perfect. Hut if I start earlier you will get bigger buds rightC
$rong" It#s strange but usually true. !lants started in early spring will get big
but they will take significantly longer to start flowering. This is because at the
peak vegetative period they sense the light cycles getting longer and longer,
until %une 16. Hut they don#t realiBe that its time to flower yet. :inally in the
middle of )ugust the plant realiBes it is time to flower so it produces buds in
)ugust and 0eptember or later.
They will be tall as trees but
thinner buds due to the fact
that the sun is not as strong in
0eptember. 0tart at the
appropriate times.
536
+ar0/stin! Marijuana
:inally we have arrived"
) bountiful harvest is the payoff for all the hard work, research, risk, and
investment you put into your garden=not to mention the long, patient wait>. )
properly e7ecuted harvest is essential to ensure the highest @uality cannabis.
537
'"/n To +ar0/st
Harvesting your plants at the precise time will allow for ma7imum bud growth
and TH+ production=potency>. )fter a certain point, TH+ will begin to break
down losing @uality and potency.
There are several important points to consider when choosing the optimum time
to harvest your mariuana crop. There are different factors to consider between
indoor and outdoor mariuana plants. There is the difference between 0ativas
and Indicas in bloom duration and final effect. There is the difference between
early and late harvest to encourage head to body high. There is also the issue
of chemistry because what we are really considering in terms of the ripeness
relates directly to the chemical nature and state of the plant at harvest.
0ome growers feel that harvest timing is a matter of personal preference. $hen
the glandular trichomes are clear with very little, if any coloration, TH+ levels
are at their peak with +H8 and +HD both at levels that will not overly influence
the TH+ with their sedative effects. 0ome prefer more overwhelming narcotic
type effects, allowing the resin glands to cloud and begin to amber or darken to
increase overall cannabinoid content. The resin glands appear and therefore will
mature at different times. ) compromise is made when determining the desired
overall maturity level to harvest. It depends on the growers preference in effect
and palate.
T"/ E'indo$F Bor Marijuana +ar0/st
This term indicates the period during which the plant is at its optimum state of
ripeness. The window opens when the plant is first ripe. 0omewhere along the
line the plant becomes over*ripe which signifies the closing of the window of
harvest. :or most Indicas grown indoors, the window of harvest is about two
weeks long give or take a couple of days for various strains. Indoors, if going
directly from an 63F9 hour vegetative light cycle to a 61F61 hour bud cycle,
most Indicas take about eight weeks to fully mature. )s to outdoors at the /5th
parallel and the bloom times there. )t the /5th parallel most Indicas to be at
peak harvest starting at the beginning of Actober, sometimes very late
0eptember, and running until the end of Actober, sometimes running into
538
Dovember during mild years or in a greenhouse. .any outdoor growers like to
harvest Indica outdoors in the second to third week of Actober. :or 0ativa
grown either indoors or outdoors, the window may be open much longer. 0ome
0ativas take up to thirteen weeks to mature indoors. Autdoors many will go well
into Dovember and even 8ecember, if conditions are right=again, this is near or
at the /5th parallel>.
T,-/ o6 +i!"
)n important consideration has to do with one#s preference for a head high or
more of a body high. ) good head high can positively influence one#s mental
state much like a psychedelicJ whereas a good body high is more similar to a
narcotic Mcouch potatoN effect. -enerally, head highs tend to be more up and
body highs tend to be more down. ) good healthy mi7 of the two is a fine goal
to achieve. 0ativas and early window harvests tend to be more of a head high,
whereas Indicas and late window harvests tend to be more of a body high.
-iven this rule of thumb you can pretty much come up with what you want. If
you prefer a very psychedelic head high then an early harvested 0ativa will
probably be best. If a very narcotic body high is desired, then a late harvest
Indicas would probably do best. :or that best*of*both worlds high,
e7perimentation with late harvested 0ativas and early*to*mid harvested Indicas
would be ideal.
Tric"o8/s
$hen we speak of various highs
e7perienced by different products,
we are noting variations in plant
chemistry. The chemicals we enoy
are produced within the glandular
stalked trichomes, along the
surfaces of the bud flowers
=caly7es>, bracts, leaves and stems,
starting in or around the fourth
week of the bud cycle. .ore and
more of these trichomes develop as
539
the plant matures. )s far as trichomes are concerned, the tall ones with swollen,
clear, bulbous heads are what to shoot for. The denser the concentration, the
greater the potency.
The best way to determine when to harvest is to e7amine the maturity of the
trichomes * their level of maturity gives you an idea of both how mature the
plant is and the effects you can e7pect from the plant if harvested at a given
stage.
Trichomes are stalks with a head at the tip, it is the tips that you will look at.
(ou will want to look at the trichomes in a couple areas over the plant to get a
good idea of the plant#s overall maturity. The tips start out clear, then later they
will begin to cloud, finally the tips will turn amber. +lear trichomess aren#t very
potentJ the ratio of cloudy to amber is really what you want to look for. The
more amber the trichomes the more of body physical stone the pot will deliver.
540
) heavier ratio of cloudy will deliver more of a soaring mental high. )ll of this is
of course relative to the general effects provided by the strain. .ost harvest at
4?*5?P amber, professional growers recommended to never go beyond 55P
amber.
541
Trichomes start out clear, turn a milky color, then turn amber=light brown>. This
is the Mred hairN you see on fully matured bud. )s the TH+ builds up in the
gland, which holds the head, swells and strains the membrane. The gland
begins to look like a mushroom.
An your first harvest, if you are having a hard time udging when to cut the
plants down, a good rough guide as to when to harvest a plant is to wait until
5?P*3?P of the white pistils =hairs> have turned dark =usually brown or red>
and about 5?P of the trichomes start to turn amber.
'A2NING7 A)8ost a)) 8arijuana strains $i)) "a0/ tric"o8/s t"at $i))
turn co)orC but so8/ -/o-)/ $"o !ro$ 8arijuana "a0/ co8/ across
strains t"at donKt.
A6t/r B)o$/rin! Bor...
) few weeks K trichomes start to turn a milky color.
) couple more weeks K trichomes will be totally milky in color.
The later stages of flowering K trichomes will turn a light brown color.
542
Not/7 T"/ a8ount o6 ti8/ r/Duir/d to !/t to t"is -oint d/-/nds on t"/ 8arijuana
strain and t"/ !ro$in! conditions.
Ot"/r Bactors7
(our plant stops producing crystals.
(our plant stops producing resin.
The fan leaves and lower leaves have turned yellow and are starting to
drop off.
The smell has reached its peak.
Hud mass has not increased at all in the past few days.
$hen grown indoors most mariuana strains will be ready to harvest within 5*61
weeks after starting a flowering light cycle=61 hours on and 61 hours off>. .ost
mainly Indica strains will be ready to harvest in 5*< weeks. .ainly 0ativa strains
can take up to 61 weeks to reach maturity
If you are at the third stage of floral maturity with fully*formed trichomes, you
can assume most strains have packed on all their final weight.
Gse the guidelines spelled out below to help gauge the best harvest window for
your plants based on the trichomesO
1? :ully*formed but still clear will provide a cleaner #up# high with less
sedative effectJ this is the best window for heavy Indicas.
%? :ully*formed and turning slightly cloudy or milkyJ this is probably
the best time to pick most hybrids available today.
3? :ully formed completely cloudy or milky with at least 4?P of the
heads turning amberJ this is usually best window for the late maturing
0ativas such as HaBe. This is also a good window when using the plant
primarily for Hash production.
543
<i/$in! Tric"o8/s
In order to properly e7amine trichomes you will need
a pocket microscope or similar tool. 9?7 is perfect. I
highly recommend that the serious cannabis student
ac@uire a 9?\ power, handheld illuminated magnifier.
+heap ones can be found at most local electronics
stores. $ith the aid of the magnifier one can learn
more about the detail of trichome development and
ripeness. The view of your buds is awesome""
) 9?*6??\ lighted magnifier is a tool any grower
serious about harvest timing should have. They make
it e7tremely easy to monitor the resin development
process. ) 6??\ magnifier will offer you an incredible
view of your plant#s trichomes * providing an
enhanced perspective of resin gland condition and development.
Ane very popular, high*@uality, handheld magnification device used amongst
elite growers today is /1? 0cience#s /1? 0cope. The /1? 0cope is a powerful
hand*held microscope specifically designed for the entire /1? community.
.edicinal patients, growers and midnight tokers alike can use the /1? 0cope to
look for bugs, molds, mildews, ripeness, potency or simply ust to admire the
beauty of +annabis. Hright, ultra*white ;&8 light, 9?*6??\ magnification, L
long*lasting battery life. )nd it#s only 1/.<5"
) 9?*6??7 pocket microscope allows for a much closer inspection of the clarity,
color and condition of the resin glands, which should be swollen and unbroken
while remaining transparent and slightly amber, if at all, at the peak of ripeness.
0ome prefer harvesting earlier, as TH+ degrades to more sedative cannabinoids
as the glands ripen. This is key.
544
.any agree the ideal time to harvest the plant is when 4F/ of the white pistils
hairs have turned brown. They should appear amber right before you cut the
plants. If they are clear the resin has not reached full potency. If they are brown
then the resin has already peaked and potency is declining rapidly. He sure to
look for the white hairs to turn red, orange or brown, and the false seed pods to
swell with resins. $hen most of the pistils have turned color =[3?P>, the
flowers are ripe and that is a good indication to harvest.
'arnin!7 8ont touch those buds" Touch only the large fan leaves if you want
to inspect the buds, as the TH+ will come off on your fingers and reduce the
overall yield if mishandled.
5)ant Maturit, 6or Brost, Buds
0tarting in the third or fourth week of
the flowering light cycle, glandular
stalked trichomes will begin to form
along the surfaces of leaves, flowers,
bracts and stems. )t the same time,
more and more flowers=also called
caly7es> develop into densely*packed
floral clusters. The pistils of the young
flowers are bright white and turn
reddish brown with age. Typically, the
pistils and flowers develop from the
bottom of the bud to the top. The older,
lower pistils are the first to turn reddish
brown. :or most basic Indicas this
usually happens by the si7th week in
the flowering cycle. It is about this
time that the caly7es begin to swell.
+aly7 swelling is a maor indicator of
peak maturity. The lowest, oldest
caly7es swell first and the swelling
545
works its way up to the highest, youngest flowers on each bud. )t peak
maturity about <?P of the caly7es will almost look seeded they are so fat.
Three @uarters to <?P of the pistils will have turned reddish brown as well. :or
a basic Indica, this happens well into the seventh week of the flowering cycle.
546
Hy the end of the eighth week most of the caly7es will have swollen and a surge
of trichome development has coated most of the buds. !atience is key during
these delicate stages. The ripening signs for most 0ativas are highly similar,
e7cept e7tended over a longer period of time. Accasionally, some 0ativas have
windows of peak harvest that actually open and close. That is, for a week or so
the plant may e7hibit signs of peak ripeness. However, a week later the plant
may have a growth spurt, which lowers the trichome*to*fibre ratio and overall
potency for a little while. Gsually a fibrous growth spurt is accompanied by a
trichome increase. )gain, time and e7perience are the key elements in
determining the perfect harvest time.
C"an!/s In C"/8istr,
)s the plant matures through its MwindowN of harvest its chemistry changes. )s
the window closes, the more desirable compounds begin breaking down into
less desirable ones. !rimarily it is TH+ breaking down in +HDs and +H8s. $hich
particular combination of chemicals is the most desirable is purely a matter of
taste and choice, developed over time and with e7perience. 0et and setting also
play an important role in determining which type of product is best appreciated.
!leasant head highs are often desirable for social occasions, whereas a narcotic
late*window Indica may work better as an evening medicinal herb. The main
point is that these differences are chemical in nature and more research is
needed to more fully understand this phenomenon. )nother important point is
that much can be done to further enhance the chemical process, especially in
regard to bou@uet, aroma and flavour=that is, as long as the proper curing
process is followed>.
T"/ B/st Ti8/ to +ar0/st
The @uestion of when to harvest cannabis plants is a @uestion that puBBles
many new growers. .ost farmers# goal is to pluck the fruit at the e7act moment
when the potency of the bud is at is peak. 'ealistically, the skills needed to
detect the specific day=or even hour> when a plant is at its peak can only be
ac@uired through years of e7perience. However, even the novice grower should
be able detect the window of time during which the harvest results in premier
crop of outstanding dank bud.
547
Maturit, and T+C7 .ost growers consider the plant to be mature when the
percentage of TH+ found in the plant reaches its ma7imum. It is not practical
for the average grower to actually measure TH+ in a plant, as the chemistry is
somewhat comple7=not to mention measuring TH+ re@uires practically a full
blown laboratory and is @uite a daunting task indeed">. In a growing plant, each
successive pair of leaves contains more TH+ than the previous pair. The budding
tips of the plant contain the most TH+ of all. Hoth male and female plants
contain TH+. 0ome research has shown that in the early stages of growth the
males actually contain more TH+ than the females. .any growers feel it is
worth cutting and sampling shoots before the TH+ has reached its ma7imum.
5)ant (i=/7 The siBe of the plant has little to do with its maturity. Autdoors, a
plant might reach a height of over eight feet =1.5m> and still not be ready for
harvest. Indoors, mature, budding plants can be under 63Q =.5m> high.
5"oto-/riod7 The age of a plant has little to do with its maturity level. How
@uickly a plant matures is mostly dependent on the amount of light the plant
receives each day=photoperiod>. Typically, a plant will transition from the
growing=vegetative> stage to the budding stage when the light per day drops
below 61 hours. This is not to say that a 4*week*old seedling will begin to bloom
when the light is cut. )s a general rule, a plant must be a minimum of 9? days
old before it is mature enough to respond appropriately to decreased light. :or
indoor growers, the decision on when to cut the photoperiod depends on
available growing space, as well as the need to harvest weed. 0ome growers
report that clones =cuttings> can be forced to bloom prior to 9? days old,
perhaps since the cutting itself is somewhat mature at the time it is rooted.
Ma)/ </rsus B/8a)/7 )lmost always, male flowers will show prior to female
buds. Thus, once the males in the garden are detected, you can be sure that
that the female budding process will start soon * usually within 6*1 weeks.
Di66/r/nt <ari/ti/s7 .any gardeners report that certain cannabis varieties take
longer to mature than others. In particular, the narrow*leafed 0ativas are said
to take significantly longer to initiate and complete budding, as compared to the
wide*leafed Indicas. Gnder some conditions 0ativas will re@uire an additional
month or more to mature after the Indicas have been harvested.
548
Ti8/ o6 Y/ar7 Abviously, indoor growers cannot use the seasons as a guide to
harvesting=though a cold winter*time grow room can significantly retard the
growth of the plants>. Autdoor growers on the other hand can use the seasons
as a predictor of the ideal harvest time. In the :all, once the length of day
drops below 61 hours, the count*down to harvest will be begin. $eather
conditions will affect the e7act harvest day from year to year, but generally you
can e7pect to harvest within the same two*week window each year. If you can
avoid it, don#t harvest during or immediately after a rainy spell.
Monitorin! Buds7 The best way to tell if the plant is ready is to e7amine the
bud. In the paragraphs below, the terms QpistilQ and QstigmaQ refer to the white
hairs in the center of the female bud. The term Qcaly7Q refers to the pod that
would surround the seed. .any growers like to pick each bud individually, as it
reaches it prime. QHuds are at their peak potency about one week after flower
formation slows...Harvest the plants when about half the stigmas in the buds
have withered... $hen the plants are left in the ground, the resinous @ualities of
the plant may become more apparent. The bracts and tiny leaves may swell in
siBe...The resin content of these buds may be higher, `buta the grass will smoke
more harshly than if the buds were younger when picked.Q :rank and
'osenthal Q.ariuana -rowers -uideQ pg 13<, pg 1<5. QIn the primordial caly7es
the pistils have turned brownJ however, all but the oldest of the flowers are
fertile and the floral clusters are white....any cultivators prefer to pick some of
their strains during this stage in order to produce mariuana with a clear
cerebral, psychoactive effect.Q 'obert +onnell +larke Q.ariuana HotanyQ, pg
6/?. Q&ventually the pistils start to turn color from pale white to red or
brown...$hen the glands have swelled and the pistil has receded into the false
pod, the bud is ready to pick.Q &d 'osenthal, QThe +loset +ultivatorQ, pg 6??.
Q)t the peak of florescence, all but the oldest of flowers have white pistil
development...)nother indicator is bou@uet. $hen a plant is at the peak of
florescence, it has a sweet and musky fragrance. ;ater, it loses the sweetness.Q
Eayo, QThe 0insemilla Techni@ueQ, pg 615. QThe best way to harvest is to
e7amine the resin glands on each bud. )s they turn from clear to amber, that is
the optimum time to pick. Huds usually mature from the top down, if grown
under artificial light, and you will end up with more high*@uality pot if you pick
each bud when ready. However, the plant will not ust continue to produces
buds at the same rate. ;ike any other plant, the flowering cycle lasts a specific
549
period of time. If you wanted a further harvest of buds, the plant would need a
second cycle of vegetative growth. This can be achieved indoors by simply
turning the lights back up to a 1/ hour cycle for a few weeks. Autdoors though,
you are dependent on the seasons. :rost and long nights will usually kill the
plant. Af course, such a strategy is only variable if growing a few plants. If
your operation runs on an industrial scale, ust drive the combine harvester
through the field.Q
Conc)usion7 If you#re new at this don#t worryJ as you gain more e7perience in
growing particular strains you will have a good idea of when it will be ready to
harvest. (ou can also check with who you get your seeds from who can tell you
what the average harvest time is of your particular strain.
+ar0/stin! Your Buds
$elcome to the funnest part of growing mariuana, Harvesting" Harvesting is
the e7citing part of the process when you get to reap your hard*earned
rewards. :irst and foremost, if being discreet is a problem and you have any
smell concerns I would like to warn you that Harvesting really really smells.
Harvesting will spread that potent mariuana odor into the air very @uickly, so be
warned if smell is a maor concern for you.
550
There is way more to harvesting mariuana plants than simply cutting them
down. !lants are cut down at the stems below the base=below the lower leaves>
with a sharp clean knife or hack saw.
$ith a small indoor or outdoor garden=less than 65 plants> it can take a few
hours to harvest, manicure, and hang the buds to dry. There#s really no way
around it as the plants must be manicured and hung to dry immediately after
they are cut down. This can be time consuming for sure.
Not/7 Ma9/ sur/ ,ou s/t asid/ a st/ad, 6 "ours o6 ti8/ to $or9 undisturb/d t"/
6irst ti8/ ,ou "ar0/st a s8a)) !ard/n. I6 itKs a )ar!/ !ard/n >8or/ t"an .* -)ants?C
8a9/ sur/ ,ou )/a0/ ,ours/)6 a 6u)) da, to $or9.
551
B)us"in!
'ight before harvesting, the plants should be fed plain water only with
absolutely no nutrients=or fertiliBer if you#re using soil>. This is to remove any
fertiliBer that has built up in the actual plants themselves, and the hydroponic
media or soil they were grown in. )fter the plants are harvested they must be
manicured and dried.
It#s important to know when the plants will be ready to harvest because prior to
harvesting you will need to remove the fertiliBer=nutrients> contained in the
plants. The plants themselves and the hydroponic media or soil the plants were
grown in will store some of the nutrients that have been fed to them.
.ariuana plants need fertiliBer so they can grow and mature to produce TH+.
In order to remove the fertiliBer from plants, you feed them plain water =with no
nutrients> for one or more feedings ust before they are harvested. This is called
flushing.
Not/7 Ta- $at/r t/nds to "a0/ )ots o6 c"/8ica)s>r/c/nt studi/s 6ound trac/s o6
antibioticsC antiAcon0u)santsC 8ood stabi)i=/rs and s/4 "or8on/s in drin9in! $at/r
in t"/ (out"/rn Ca)i6ornia r/!ion?C it is b/st to us/ disti))/d:-uri6i/d $at/r or
$at/r tr/at/d $it" r/0/rs/ os8osis 6or t"is -ur-os/.
8on#t be concerned where the plants are getting their food as they will use up
the fertiliBer they have stored in them =growth does not slow down>. That is if
you do it correctly. If you do not flush the nutrients from the plants, the
resulting mariuana will taste bad and may be very hard to ignite.
If you have been growing the plant on organic nutrients then there is seldom a
need to clear the plant since it has not taken up any foul tasting chemical
nutrients. The e7tra D stored in the foliage will have been used up=translocated
for budding fuel> as part of the natural process of final budding.
$hen growing hydroponic mariuana, start clearing about 5 days before harvest.
This can by done easily by changing the solution and using only distilled water
or water treated with reverse osmosis =DA DGT'I&DT0">. 0ome growers even
change the water two or more times before harvest because there#s a chance
552
the media may still hold nutrients after the first flush.
$ith soil, same pure water rules apply above but instead of 5 days you need to
change the water 6/ days before harvest. )void slow*release fertiliBers because
they are hard to remove. If you have your heart set on using slow*release
fertiliBer, not to worry ust replace it with regular nutrients for the last month.
Ah and if you#re growing in soil here#s a trick to speed the drying processO you
can stop watering the plants 1 days prior to harvest.
'A2NING7 DO NOT sto- t"/ 6)o$ o6 $at/r to ",dro-onic -)ants. I6 ,ou
do t"/, $i)) 'IT ad b/!in to DIE $it"in a 6/$ 8inut/s to a 6/$
"ours11111 Not coo) dud/.
It is best keeping as many leaves green on the plant until week 5 or 9. Then,
metaboliBe the remaining minerals present in the plant during the final 1 or 4
weeks. Total dissolved solids in the final flushing solution is between /??*
5??ppm. In hydroponics, it is important not to reduce the solution ppm much
lower, as this will shock the plants by causing reverse osmotic pressure on the
roots. The plant stores e7cess nutrients in the plant tissue, that are available for
photosynthesis. If there is a lack of available nutrients to the roots, the plant will
access these reserves and the final product will burn,
smell and taste far better.
:or @uality flushing L for
making sure your
harvested buds taste
sensational, many
growers=including myself>
swear by Hotanicare#s
+leare7 as one of the best
cannabis clearing solutions
currently available.
553
'"at To Cut
0o its harvest time""""" Hut, you do not know where or what you should cut and
how to go about it. $ell the truth is that this is mostly personal preference.
'egardless of how you cut and trim your plants touch the flowers as little as
possible and avoid breaking up the buds. 8amaging the delicate trichomes will
reduce the potency of the mariuana a lot. Ane way to safely handle your plants
is to leave the plants in their pots=more or less intact> and spread out a couple
news papers. Toss large sun leaves on newspaper and do small bud trimming
over the other.
0tart with the sun leaves and then trim progressively smaller. This way you will
have less in your way. :or now, leave the buds on your stems. :or trimming the
554
buds, first take all the tiny popcorn lower buds and put them where you are
going to put your trim.
De7t trim the actual bud leaves, this trim will have lots of trichomes so should
be saved to make hash oil, butter, or something else so they don#t go to waste.
To trim the bud leaves, simply clip off the stem to remove it. Then begin to trim
in a circular motion around the bud until you have cut back to the sugar
coating. Trimming past this point is ust wasteful. 8on#t worry if they look fluffy
or leafy, they will dry and cure into sticky potent buds if you#ve done everything
right.
This should leave you with all the buds on a nice thick stem network that is
suitable for any dryingFcuring process you want to use. 0ome drying processes
will involve ust clipping at the main stem and hanging upside down to dryJ
others will re@uire you to further break down the plant into smaller bud pieces.
555
$hen you cut be sure to leave enough stem for you to handle and work with
the flowers * you can=and likely will> trim down the stem later and a dried stem
doesn#t weigh a significant amount compared with dried bud. )lso, you will find
that you can trim the large top buds into smaller buds one node at a time. It is
better to leave as large of a single bud mass as possible.
'A2NING7 '"/n -)ants 6ina)), 8atur/C t"/, ar/ in t"/ir 8ost
0u)n/rab)/ susc/-tib)/ stat/ to 8o)d. Mo)d can b/ disastrous. Mo)d
6or8ation b/!ins insid/ t"/ bud and !ro$s out$ardC 8a9in! it
in0isib)/ unti) it is too )at/. Mo)ds can $i-/ out an /ntir/ cro-
o0/rni!"t. Maintainin! a )o$ "u8idit, durin! t"/ 6ina) $//9s o6
8aturit, $i)) !r/at), r/duc/ t"/ c"anc/ o6 a 8o)d attac91
+ar0/stin! 0ia Cuttin!
(ou#ll need some pruning shears, some
real sharp sturdy scissors, some type
of clothes line type of set*up that you
can hang the plants on, a smell proof
room thats dry and cool and if
possible a T*55 silkscreen to work
over when your doing the manicuring.
(ou can harvest the plants by cutting
them down at the base of the stem
with a pair of scissors, sharp clean
knife, hacksaw or some other cutting
tool, ust above where the plant meets
the hydroponic media or soil. This
allows you to harvest the entire plant
at the same time. (ou can also wait for
each individual branch to mature and
cut it off separately. Try to leave a few
inches of stem at the base of each bud.
If you do, it will be easier to hang the
buds to dry. If you#re a very spiritual
556
person be sure to thank .other &arth for the plant before cutting it"
If growing outdoors due to the constantly changing growing conditions, you can
not assume a particular strain will be ready in the e7act amount of time each
time you grow it. Harvesting outdoor plants =that can grow up to 61 feet">
produce massive yields. These plants tend to be a challenge to harvest, as it is
in no way easy. In order to harvest your outdoor mariuana plants you will need
a canvas spread or some other material you can use to wrap up and properly
carry the bud in. Hegin by chopping the plant at it#s base and spread it out on
the canvas. De7t roll up your canvas or other material and tie it down tight to
ensure a safe transport.
Harvesting via cutting procedures for sativa and indica are slightly different,
we#ll go over the key differences and steps for harvesting these now.
+ar0/stin! Indica (t/-AB,A(t/-
(t/- 1? (our 6*/ foot plant should be cut at the base, turned upside*down, and
hung in a cool room with no light and plenty of fresh air.
(t/- %? Gsing a pair of clippers remove as many of the fan leaves as you
possibly can=you can also remove the big leaves by hand>.
(t/- 3? De7t remove the secondary small leaves=around the tops> and place
these in a separate pile.
(t/- 4? De7t step is to gather the trim from the actual bud=MtrimN is the tiny
leaves surrounding the bud that are covered in resin>.
That#s all there is to it"
Not/7 Bor -r/cision cuttin! ,ou can bu, a 8ac"in/. E0/n t"/ s8a))/st to-s can b/
cut a$a, $it"out an, -rob)/8 usin! on/1
557
+ar0/stin! (ati0a (t/-Ab,A(t/-
) 0ativa harvest is slightly harder than an Indica harvest, and takes a little bit
more work but is so so worth it. It is done in the same way as an indica harvest
basically.
(t/- 1? +ut your plant at its base and hang it upside down in a cool room with
no light and plenty of fresh air.
(t/- %? Take your pair of clippers and remove leaves=you can also remove the
bigger ones by hand> and trim as mentioned in the harvesting Indica section.
Not/7 (ati0a -)ants t/nd to b/ 0/r, bus",. You 8a, "a0/ to cut t"/ branc"/s and
"an! t"/s/ u- s/-arat/),. A)so b/ sur/ to 9//- ,our roo8 dar9 as )i!"t $i))
d/!rad/ ,our -r/cious T+C Duantiti/s. Tr, not to /4-os/ ,our "ar0/st to an, dir/ct
)i!"t as 8uc" as ,ou can.
)fter the mariuana plants have been harvested it is now time for the ne7t part
in the cultivation process, we need to manicure them and then dry them. ;eave
the plant as it is until you can easily break a branch between your fingers, once
you can do this, you are ready to cure the bud.
Manicurin!
)fter all the plants have been harvested, it is now time to manicure them * it#s
time to remove the buds from the branch and remove the rest of the leaf
material as best as possible. This is what is referred to as QmanicuringQ of
mariuana buds. .anicuring, simply put, is cutting off the leaves that were
growing from the buds. +ut off all the leaves surrounding the bud, so that ust
the bud remains. .anicure immediately after harvest when plant leaves are still
soft and supple.
Trimming immediately also increases drying times. 0imply put this is the
process when we remove the non resin*covered fan leaves around the buds
before hanging. These do not contain high concentrations of TH+. This is a very
time consuming process, but you will find if done properly and with care it
produces more potent, less leafy, better looking buds. This can be done before
558
or after drying, but you will find it is much easier to do it before.
'A2NING7 2/8o0/ t"/ /ntir/ )/a6 st/81 I6 not it can attract 8oistur/
and attract 8o)d.
Tear fan leaves away from the stock while handling buds as little as possible. =In
fact, do not touch them at all for a great selling point M buds never touched by
human hands"N> +ontinue to trim protruding leaf tips from the buds. The degree
to which you trim your buds is a matter that is entirely personal choice.
) good time to begin manicuring is when your plants are nearly dry. $hen they
are too dry, many of the glands will fall off with handling. $hen there is
moisture most of the glands will remain intact.
$ork over a smooth surface such as a glass table. This will make it easy to be
559
able to see and collect all the material that has been cut away from the buds. It
is lower in TH+ than the buds, but rather than throw it away you can make hash
oil.
>Bor/ 8or/ in6or8ation -)/as/ s// t"/ +as"is" s/ction.?
$hen manicuring your buds, be sure to use a pair of
scissors with small blades =to reach the hard to get
leaves> that is comfortable. If you have a small crop,
you can handle the plants with your bare hands. :or
the larger crops, be sure to wear powder free late7
gloves.
If you want to consume the resin, be sure to place
the late7 gloves in a bag and then place it in the
freeBer for 1*4 hours. The trichome resin can easily
then be peeled from the late7 gloves and consumed
the way you would use hashish.
If it is absolutely necessary, you can postpone
manicuring the buds. However, the ob will take even
more time if you choose to wait. .anicuring right
after the plants are harvested will also speed up the
drying process tremendously.
Not/7 At t"is -oint t"/ buds s"ou)d b/ a )itt)/ 8oistC inc)udin! t"/ insid/ o6 t"/8.
(o8/ can b/ s8o9/Aab)/ at t"is -ointC ,ou can !/t /0/n b/tt/r s8/))in! and
tastin! buds inst/ad o6 s8o9in! 8arijuana dir/ct), a6t/r it is "ar0/st/d and
8anicur/d A itKs b/st to dr, and cur/ it. Most n/$bi/ !ro$/rs ar/ in suc" a rus" to
tr, t"/ 8arijuana t"at t"/, donKt $ant to dr, t"/ cro-C or t"/, 8i!"t /0/n b/
t/8-t/d to -ut it in t"/ 8icro$a0/ 3 BAD IDEA. '",@ 2/ad on.
560
Dr,in!
)fter trimming it is now time to dry out buds. 8rying and curing mariuana is a
critical step in the growth process. 8uring this stage you can lose, preserve, or
cultivate odor, flavor, and potency. Ador and flavor must be carefully cultivated.
The drying and curing process allow the plant to purge sugar and if desired to
purge chlorophyll =although some have developed a taste for the chlorophyll in
the plant>. Improperly dried and cured mariuana can lose almost all of its
original potency and lower potency mariuana can be concentrated to slightly
higher potency if handled properly. :our things reduce the potency of mariuana
those things are e7posure to light, heat, damage to the plant tissue, and air.
)dditionally, mariuana that is not dried and stored properly can contain too
much moisture and grow mold. It is important to remember that many rapid
561
drying techni@ues will dry only the outside of a compact flower and that slow
techni@ues like curing may be needed to draw that moisture to the surface. The
virtue in drying and curing as with all stages of growing is patience. Initially
drying can be preformed free hanging or enclosed in cardboard bo7es or paper
bags, both of which will act as a desiccant.
8rying can be performed by taking the branches
and hanging them up side down so the fan leaves
droop and cover the buds. 8uring this step you
need to put the branches in a cool dark place=not
humid> with enough good ventilation. (ou probably
don#t want to smoke mariuana that is harsh and
tastes bad. If you don#t take the time to dry the
bud, you will not get the best possible smell and
taste your crop is capable of producing. If you dry
your buds too fast it will make your buds smell like
pine needles, hay, and taste very bad. !roper drying and curing also ensures the
ma7imum potency of the mariuana you have grown. Hanging your mariuana
upside down in a cool dry place of total darkness is essential for potent buds.
This way all the leftover TH+ is forced down into the buds. .ariuana is typically
not potent ust after harvest K some of the TH+ is in a non*psychoactive acidic
form. 8rying mariuana the right way will also convert the non*psychoactive
acidic compounds into psychoactive potent TH+.
The area where drying is done should be completely dark. ;ight and high
temperatures=anything higher than 3?Y:=19.9Y+>> will cause the TH+ to break
down and lower the potency of your finished product. $e#re going for making
the dankest buds we can here, so this step is +'G+I);.
562
Air Dr,in!
)ir 8rying is probably the most popular method
of drying mariuana today=and for good
reason">. It can be very well controlled * by
controlling the amount of airflow, you control
the speed of drying. The most common
techni@ue of air drying is to suspend the plants
upside down in a room with a circulating fan
blowing=but not actually blowing on the plants
themselves> to keep air moving.
)nother techni@ue to put the buds on a half
open drawer or tray in a place with moving air.
The further along in the drying process the
more you close the drawer to reduce airflow.
) simpler way to dry the mariuana is to put the
buds in a layer in a brown paper bag. This is
simpler but faster and therefore the output is
less desirable. The speed in this process is a
trade off. If you dry too fast then it will take longer to cure the mariuana
properly. If you dry too slowly you will be e7posing the mariuana to more air
therefore reducing potency. .any growers shoot for about seven days drying
time. If you are not going to cure the mariuana the plants should be dried until
the stems snap easily rather than bend. If you are going to cure then you can
begin with slightly more damp=but still mostly dry> mariuana.
+o$ To Dr, Buds
In order to dry the crop is to hang the buds upside*down from their stem, from
a string or wire that has been secured to a wall or any other stationary obect.
(ou can use nails, screws, thumbtacks etc to attach the string or wire to
whatever it will be held to. .ake sure your setup is secure enough to be able to
hold the weight of the mariuana that is going to be hung drying on it. Dails or
screws in wood is typically very sturdy and recommended. .ake sure you leave
enough room between the plants for air to properly circulate.
563
It is good idea to check up on the buds every day to watch for signs of mold
and mildew and correct the problem if it happens. )fter the fan leaves droop
down over the flowers and turn crisp or break off easily, you would want to start
trimming off the fan leaves only.
The drying mariuana must have some circulation blowing over it at all times.
!roper ventilation is +'G+I);. ) gentle breeBe that circulates all over the plants
is necessary. ) fan or two will circulate the air within the drying room perfectly.
:ans aid in drying the plants evenly and reducing the chances of mold forming
on your buds. If mold is prone to grow due to your drying environmental
conditions, it can ruin all of your crop. .old looks like white fuBB or white spots
and has a distinct unpleasant odor.
564
'A2NING7 NE<E2 /0/r s8o9/ 8o)d, budsC as t"is can 8a9/ ,ou 0/r,
0/r, sic9 and 8i!"t /0/n 9i)) ,ou1
O-ti8a) Dr,in! En0iron8/nt
) dark cool drying environment is critical. )D( light that touches your buds will
at once begin to degrade it#s TH+ content.
In order to ensure optimum drying results, you are going to have to keep the
temperature and humidity within a certain range for optimal results. +onditions
should remain somewhere between the following ideal rangesJ
T/8-/ratur/7 between 95*59Y:=63.4 to 1/./Y+>.
+u8idit,7 between /5P*55P.
If the temperatures lower more than 95Y:=63.4Y+> the drying time will be
lengthened. )t temperatures higher than 55Y:=14.3Y+>, the heat will cause the
other portion of the bud to dry @uicker than the inner part and as a result the
taste will suffer.
)t a humidity lower than /5P the mariuana will dry way too fast and the taste
will suffer. If the humidity rises higher than 55P, the mariuana will take a long
time to dry and will be prone to mold.
To measure these levels, be sure to keep a hygrometer and a thermometer in
the the drying area very close to the plants. ) hygrometer allows you to keep
tabs on the relative humidity level in the room and a thermometer will display
the temperature. 0ome hygrometers have built in thermometers so you can
measure both temperature and humidity at the same time. 8epending on the
time of year and your current location, a heater or an air conditioner might be
necessary to adust the temperature. To control the humidity levels a
dehumidifier can lower the humidity and a humidifier can be used to raise it.
There are two types of humidifiers K warm mist and cool mist.
565
) warm mist humidifier raised the temperature while a cool mist humidifier
doesn#t affect the temperature at all. There are also humidifiers that allow you
to switch between a warm or cool mist. If you#re going to purchase a humidifier,
be sure to take your climate into consideration and then go ahead and buy an
appropriate humidifier to suit your individual needs.
$arm mist actually heats up the water and releases warm humidity. +ool mist
water isn#t cooled, it ust means that water is not heated. In most cases a cool
mist works best. If you#re not sure and want to be safe then go ahead and grab
a humidifier that lets you switch between warm and cool mist.
Typically the ideal time it takes is two weeks to dry the crop between
temperatures of 95*55Y:=63.4*14.3Y+> and relative humidity between /5P*
55P. Dever rush the drying of your buds=that is, if you want to make
sensational bud"> ) bud is completely dry, cured, and ready for consumption
when the stem in the middle of the bud snaps=rather than fold> easily with the
fingers. The snap is easy to detect with practice. (ou can test a little bit=about a
half a gram or less> in a oint if you want to be absolutely sure it is dry enough.
The surface of buds should be dry to the touch.
Not/7 Good 0/nti)ation in t"/ roo8 $i)) a))o$ buds to !ro$ 6ast/rC but an, air t"at
is dir/ct/d at buds $i)) caus/ t"/8 too dr, out too Duic9),. Ma9/ sur/ ,ou donKt
dr, it too 8uc">"ard cris- st/8s $i)) sna- $a, too /asi),? t"is can )/ad to a "ars"
s8o9/. In ti8/ ,ou $i)) !/t a 6//) 6or t"/ -/r6/ct dr,in! 8/t"odo)o!,C no $orr/s.
'A2NING7 i!"t $i)) ra-id), d/co8-os/ T+C1 (o A'AY( 9//-
"ar0/st/d 8arijuana in dar9n/ss as 8uc" as -ossib)/.
)nd remember, you can use all sorts of little tricks and methods to increase
drying time, but ultimately K the longer and slower your buds dry, the smoother
the smoke will be in the end. The bud will smoke smoother if it takes around a
week or more for the moisture to evaporateJ @uicker drying will harshen the
taste and degrade the burning properties.
566
5//)in! (t/8s Bor a Bast/r Dr,
If you .G0T dry your buds faster then peeling stems is a much @uicker way to
dry the product. The first day of drying you would normally cut all fan leaves off
and score the main stem with a sharp knife. !eeling the stem e7poses the inside
of the stem to air, cutting drying time by up to [44P. (ou can do this scoring
ritual everyday for 5 days until all is dry.
2/A8oisturi=in! Dr, Buds (t/-AB,A(t/-
0hould a sample of bud become over*dried before proper curing is complete,
many different techni@ues may be used to slightly re*hydrate the bud and
continue curing as normal. :resh buds, orange or lemon peels, lettuce, apple or
many other fresh fruits and vegetables can be added to a sealed ar of pot to
allow more moisture to diffuse into it. !lain water either sprayed directly on or
applied via towel to the buds is also a good way to re*moisten them.
He very careful when re*moisturiBing buds though, because sometimes the re*
moisturiBing material can carry pathogenic fungi and bacteria, which if not
monitored carefully, can destroy your crop. 2enting, checking, turning, and even
re*moistening of buds is necessary so that the proper moisture content to
promote curing is present, slow even drying is the optimum process for curing
cannabis.
)dding moisture to a smoking bag of over*dried, crispy buds is easy" )ll you
need is a sealed container=) Iiploc bag or a glass ar works ust fine>, fresh fan
leaves and about a days time.
(t/- 1? !ut your over dried buds into a Iiploc bag or a 6 @uart mason ar=a ar
being the better choice>.
(t/- %? )dd a few freshly cut fan leaves=fresh shoots work great too> to your
ar or baggie. Gse about 4*5 leaves to half a mason ar. 0tart with a few leavesJ
add more leaves as necessary. :an leaves will become dry and shriveled when
they give up their moisture.
567
If fresh leaf is unavailable, a small piece of lettuce, or appleForangeFpotato peel
can be used as well. ) paper towel with a few drops of water on it also does the
trick.
(t/- 3? The final step is to wait about a day. How long it takes depends on
how much is in the container and how dry the buds were. It can work as fast as
5 hrs.
+heck the container at least once a day. The buds will have a nice, soft te7ture
will not feel crispy or brittle when they are ready. They will smell better too"
Not/7 To r/A8oist/n )ar!/r a8ounts o6 dr, budC si8-), sca)/ /0/r,t"in! u-. You
8a, $ant to s/-arat/ )ar!/ and s8a))/r buds into s/-arat/ contain/rs.
Onc/ a da,C turn t"/ -i)/ o6 buds o0/r to /4-os/ t"/ botto8 buds. C"/c9 6or an,
si!ns o6 rot. T"/ -roc/ss 8a, ta9/ 1A3 da,s.
2/c,c)in! Cannabis
It is possible to harvest plants and then reuvenate them vegetatively for a
1nd and even 4rd harvest. ) second harvest can be realiBed in as little as 9*
3 weeks. 0ince the plant#s stalk and roots are already formed, the plant can
produce a second, even third harvest of buds in a little more than half the
time of the original harvest. $hen harvesting, take off the top 6F4rd of the
plant. ;eave most healthy fan leaves in the middle of the plant, cutting
buds off branches carefully. An the lower 6F4rd of the plant, take off end
flowers, but leave several small flowers on each branch. These will be the
part of the plant that is regenerated. The more buds you leave on the
plant, the faster it will regenerate. :eed the plant some high nitrogen plant
food immediately after harvest. $hen you intend to regenerate a plant,
make sure it never gets too starved for nitrogen as it is maturing, or all the
sun leaves will fall off, and your plant will not have enough leaves to live
after being harvested.
Harvested plants can come inside for reuvenation under continuous light or
are left outside in 0ummer to reuvenate in the natural long days. It will
take 5*6/ days to see signs of new growth when regenerating a plant. )s
568
stated before, and in contrast to normal growth patterns, lower branches
will be the first to sprout new vegetative growth. )llow the plant to grow a
little vegetatively, then take outside again to reflower. Ar keep inside for
vegetative cuttings. (ou now have two or three generations of mariuana
growing and will need more space outside. Hut you will now be harvesting
twice as often. )s often as every 4? days, since you have new clones or
seedlings growing, vegetative plants ready to flower, and regenerated
plants flowering too.
'egenerating indoors can create problems if your plants are infected with pests.
It may be best to have a separate area indoors that will not allow your plants to
infect the main indoor area. )n alternative to regenerating indoors is to
regenerate outdoors in the 0ummer. %ust take a harvest in %une, then allow the
plant to regenerate by leaving some lower buds on the plant, and leaving the
middle 6F4rd of the plant#s leaves at harvest. :eed it nitrogen, and make sure it
gets lots of sun. It will regenerate all 0ummer and be @uite large by :all, when it
will start to flower again naturally.
Curin!
+uring is essential in order to smoke mariuana without damaging your lungs
and for getting the best taste possible out of your buds. ) fan leaf will be an
okay smoke, the middle leaves a little bit better, the trim is very good, and the
bud is obviously the !'I.& that will give you the best @uality euphoric high.
The last critical step is to create a way to bring out the full flavor and best
smoke possible from your mariuana buds. This is the final step in which
moisture is redistributed throughout the bud. If left dry bud will dry from the
outside*in. The problem with this is that by the time the buds center becomes
dry, the outside will become overly dry K it is crisp and crumbly. In order to dry
the center without over*drying the outsides, your buds will need to be cured. To
cure the mariuana crop, you#re going to need to get your hands on an airtight
glass ar container or plastic bags. These will distribute them moisture evenly
throughout the bud. -lass is recommended because most plastics will impart a
gross taste to the mariuana. +ontainers that have a rubber seal work best, but
any tight fitting lid will do. Ane @uart canning ars work great if you#re curing a
569
few pounds or less. They have a rubber seal and hold about 1 or more ounces
of mariuana per ar. +ool beans. $hen the buds feel firm and crisp, it is time to
seal them in an airtight light proof container and stored in a cool dark place.
The sweet spot is when mariuana is dry enough to be stored in room*
temperature airtight containers without growing mold, and being moist
enough=wont break down and crumble when handled> to ensure a sensational
smoke.
Curin! and 5ot/nc,
+uring can seemingly affect potency because often the first time the buds feel
QdryQ, they really aren#t. Ance they start to cure and sweat, you will see how
much moisture is left. +uring is mostly for aroma and taste, but the first week
after QdryingQ will still have some effect on the potency as the bud fully dries.
8rying bud converts crude acidic TH+ from its nonactive form into a neutral pH
psychoactive substance. &ach TH+ molecule has to lose it#s moisture content in
order to become fully psychoactive. $hen the water e7its the bud, the TH+
becomes slightly different in molecular structure. Heating can make TH+ readily
active by immediately vaporiBing the bud#s moisture content away. However,
aging is e@ually as important too. :irst the bud is QdriedN, but can still contain
some moisture within. Hy using the QcureQ, the TH+ slowly becomes
psychoactive. +uring builds a more uniformly dried bud with a better burn and
taste.
570
)lmost all the TH+ converts to the usable psychoactive cannabinoid over the
allotted time without the degradation gotten from heat drying the bud @uickly.
The bud that has e@ualiBed QcuredQ moisture content throughout will give the
bud a nice firey glow when burned. +ured buds pack in bowls easier and break
down into blunts and oints without difficulty. Hash that has been cured forms a
beautiful rhine around the outside with a rich creamy inside. +ured bud and
hash is great and worth the trouble. The taste is awesome as all the e7cess
chlorophyll has been broken down. ) smoother smoke is created. +uring bud
makes it more tasty and much more enoyable to use than it already is.
571
+o$ To T/)) '"/n Buds Ar/ Dr, Enou!" To b/ Cur/d
There are many variables to consider when it comes to drying*timeO humidity,
temperature, air*circulation, bud*density, bud*siBe, manicureFtrim, and the
method of drying are all maor factors.
&stablishing an environment that promotes slow and uniform drying is key.
$hatever drying method you prefer, maintaining cool temperatures and low
humidity is essential for preserving flavourFaroma.
Gsing a fan assists in keeping tempFhumidity levels constant.
&valuating the QcrunchQ of the stem is a good techni@ue when assessing
whether or not buds are ready to be cured. $hen the stems snap,
instead of bending, they are ready to be arred and stored in a cool, dry,
dark place. )nother method of udging dryness is to bite the stems and
evaluate the crunch this wayJ your aw is more sensitive than even your
fingers.
(ou can also grindFcutFbreak up a bract from the center of a larger bud,
and roll a oint with itJ if it is smooth*smoking, with even*burning
properties, then the rest of the buds should be ready for curing.
Ance the correct dryness is attained, place the buds into an air*tight
containerFar, filling it as much as possible to e7pel as much air as
possible, and cure to your favorite vintage"
T"/ B/st 'a, to Dr, U 5r/s/r0/ T"/ Cur/ Bor (8oot"C ($//t
Buds
+ommercial growers take the colas from the plant and manicure them before
drying. They usually dry them on a line, upside*down, which is fine. However,
usually airflow is forced, temperatures too high, and humidity too low. )s soon
as the buds are considered dry=usually within a few days>, it is sold. The reason
for this behavior is the fact they are McommercialN growers and in a constant
hurry to e7change their buds for cash. &very minute counts and they don#t want
to #waste# the space or the time needed for drying and curing. This results in
harsh, grassy tasting weed that lacks the full*bodied flavor and smooth stone of
572
properly dried and cured bud.
To Do It 2i!"t7 )t harvest*time all you have to do is cut the plant as low as
possible and hang the whole thing upside down to dry on a line. The room you
use to dry should be the about the same siBe you grew in=if not the same
room>. 'eminding you from earlier * the humidity should remain a constant 5?*
9?P. Too high and buds will mold, too low and they dry too fast and taste bad.
Temperature should be around 95*93Y:=63.4*1?Y+>, wherever possible. .ake
sure the room is dark, as you learned that light degrades TH+ pretty @uickly.
)ll kinds of processes, like the transport of sugars inside the plant still take
place, even when you cut it down. These processes will slowly come to an end
while the drying progresses, but are the main factor for the end*taste of your
smoke. That is the first reason why you don#t want to @uick*dry your weed. The
second reason is the way that a plant dries. !lants are made up of cells and, as
we all know, cells contain mainly water. &7posed to air, the=dying> plant#s outer
cells will dry out first but the above*mentioned processes will still transfer water
from the inner cells to the dryer outer cells, thus causing the plant to dry
e@ually all over. Hy removing the stalk and cutting off the individual colas, you
prevent this natural process by taking away the e7tra moisture that would be
drawn from the stem to the leaves and bud.
.ake sure you hang the plants so that they do not touch each other=invites
mold>. $ith constant temp and humidity, the plants should be ready for
manicuring in 4*/ weeks. )t this time trim colas from the main stalk, and trim
large and medium fan leaves=save them for making hash>, leaving most of the
smaller leaves sticking out of the bud in tact. Hang them up again and for a day
or two, until #popcorn# dry. The stems should snap when you bend them, and
the bud should be dry, but not brittle.
Curin! 5ro-/r),7 Trim all remaining leaf=save for hashmaking> tight to the
buds, and trim smaller buds from larger stems. 0tore them airtightJ air at this
point degrades TH+.
Not/7 Ii-)oc9 ba!s ar/ not airti!"t1 You cou)d us/ buc9/ts $it" an airti!"t )id )i9/
us/d 6or 6ood and sauc/s and suc"C but t"/ b/st contain/rs ar/ t"os/ !)ass jars
$it" t"/ rubb/r s/a) and )atc".
573
%ust put as much bud in it as possible using light pressure. The point is to fill it
as much as possible, so not too much air remains in the container. The less air,
the better. To be safe, check them the ne7t day to make sure it#s still dry=did not
MsweatN>. )ny e7cess moisture at this point will invite mold. If it did sweat and is
moist =soft> again, lay the bud out on something other than newspaper and put
in a dry place to get the last water out. 'epack and place the container in a
cool, dark place, like a refrigerator. :ridges have high humidity so they must be
absolutely airtight. The longer it sits=up to around a month, maybe longer in the
fridge> the better it gets, both in taste and potency.
)t around the month mark, you can move it to the freeBer to almost stop the
aging and curing process. Ance you#ve got some buds stored in the freeBer, you
have a private stash that will last a long time. If you#ve got the patience to wait,
the smoke will be sweet and smooth. The high will be mellow, and longer
lasting. If you grew enough to last you a while, then after a few harvests you
will be able to have properly cured buds at your disposal, with no downtime
waiting for the ne7t batch to cure" If you#re not in a hurry to sell your crop you
owe it to your head to wait the e7tra time and have great tasting, very potent
bud" +uring is the only way to make harvested bud more potent, so try it, you
won#t be disappointed
Ance you have learned how to grow a crop the ne7t step is to cure it. (ou don#t
want to always smoke weed that#s harsh and bad tasting. Here are some basic
tips and a few advanced ones you can e7periment with. !reparing the harvest
curing the crop adding flavors.
5r/-arin! T"/ +ar0/st
+uring your harvest is an important step in the cultivation process. .any new
growers are so eager to try the product they don#t even wait for it to mature.
They cut off buds that aren#t ripe and dry them out fast. I#ve heard of people
putting buds in the microwave because they couldn#t wait for them to dry. If
taste, aroma and ma7imum potency is important to you then you want to cure
your buds and not ust dry them.
574
T"/ Birst (t/-s7 !reparations must be made well before curing begins. The
e7perienced grower harvests his crop when 5?P * 3?P of the pistils have
turned color. If you have grown out the strain before you have a good idea
when they will be ready. 8on#t forget to flush" 'emember * the growing medium
and the plants themselves store some of the nutrients you have given them.
This will give a nasty taste if you harvest without clearing it out. &7cessive
nutrients will also make the buds hard to burn. This can be done by changing
the solution and using only plain water. 0ome growers will change the solution
twice because the rockwool or grow rocks may hold a little. $ith soil you need
to change to plain water at least a week and preferably two weeks before
harvest depending on how much soil in each pot. 8on#t use slow release
fertiliBers because they are very hard to clear out.
Not/7 Outdoor 6ar8/rs $"o n//d to us/ s)o$ r/)/as/ can ti8/ it and us/ just
)iDuid 6/rti)i=/rs to$ard t"/ /nd.
0o by now you have harvested right at the peak. (ou cleared out the nutrients
beforehand and you have fragrant, spicy highly potent buds you want to
preserve.
Curin! T"/ Cro-
Immediately after the harvest comes the cure. The reasons for curing and not
ust @uick drying your crop are to make the herb sweet smelling and increase
the @uality of smoke. (ou want it mild not harsh and you want a good smell and
flavor. )fter all that work don#t ruin it with a too @uick cure. ) good MproperN
cure lasts for from 4 to 3 weeks but satisfying results can be had in two weeks
or so. 0ome growers cure their bud for years" The idea is to remove the water
slowly enough to let biological processes take place that convert the sugars and
starches into harmless and flavorful compounds. 0ugar or starch will give a
harsh smoke that hurts the lungs. !lants need sugars to live on and they
produce them from fertiliBer and sunlight. This curing process also breaks down
some of the chlorophyll which give herb it#s green color. Too much chlorophyll
gives an unwanted leafy taste.
575
(our main enemy when you are curing is mold. )fter pot is dried it#s not very
susceptible to mold but you have to maintain a certain level of humidity to let
the curing process do it#s work. The way you control humidity is by controlling
how much ventilation you allow. (ou want some ventilation but not too much.
Too much and it dries out without curing properly, too little ventilation and you
may get mold. If you see or smell the slightest sign of mold you must
immediately stop the cure and let it dry out. If mold is unchecked it can destroy
your crop in short order. .old can be detected by sight and smell. It looks white
usually and will be fuBBy. If you see it in one part you can be sure the spores are
all over so you may as well let it dry. .old also has an odor which is always
nasty. Dever never smoke herb that has mold on it.
(ou want to avoid light and heat at all times with your crop after it has been
harvested. ;ight will destroy it and temperatures over about 3?Y:=19.9Y+> are
bad. The best place to store it is in the freeBer or fridge. If that#s not practical a
cool dry dark place will do. (ou need an enclosure to put your crop in for the
cure. 8epending on the siBe of you crop you can use a cardboard bo7, a closet
or an unused room. $ith the cardboard bo7 you want to hang the plants from a
string. 8on#t ust dump everything into the bo7 because the plants on the
bottom won#t get enough air and may turn moldy. .any growers put string
across the open top of a bo7 and tape the ends to the outside. They then would
crisscross several strings and attach the plants with twist ties. .ake sure the
bo7 is tall enough for your plants. If it#s not tall enough you can cut the plant in
half or even cut off each branch and hang it in the bo7. The plants or branches
should be loose and have some space between it and the ne7t. It doesn#t take a
lot of space ust as long as air can circulate. $ith a closet you do the same
thing. (ou might want to put nails or thumbtacks in the walls for the strings or
the clothes hanger bar may be enough. If you are using a whole room you need
to set up something to keep the plants hanging upside down off the floor. The
first few days you allow more ventilation and as the plants get dryer you allow
less. In the bo7 leave the top off, with the closet leave the door open and if you
use the whole room leave the door open and use a fan to blow air in. )fter one
or two days you will have lost a good bit of moisture and you can begin to
restrict air flow.
576
!ut a section of newspaper over the top not @uite covering the whole top of the
cardboard bo7. )s the cure progressed cover the top more and more. )s soon
as the leaves began to get stiff cover the top completely. They still got a little
air because the newspaper was not airtight. $ith a closet after a day or two
close the door all e7cept for a couple inches. )s the cure progresses and the
plants get drier, close the door completely. )lmost all closets have cracks around
the door that air can come through. If you have a very large closet treat it like
a room. $hen using a whole room to cure, after a day or two of letting the fan
blow air in, close the door part way. $ith the room cure it#s a good idea to have
a fan inside moving the air around and another fan in the doorway blowing
fresh air in.
$atch the plants very closely to see how fast they are drying. )s soon as you
notice a little bit of stiffness to the stems they have lost probably 5?P of their
moisture. $hen the leaves start to get a little bit crisp you have lost most of the
e7cess moisture and you must restrict ventilation some more. Gsing a whole
room at this point you turn off the fan blowing air in but you leave the door
open a little. (ou never cut off ventilation completely because mold is a threat
right up until the end. The leaves should start to get a little crisp after a week or
two. If it happens sooner you may be using too much ventilation and should cut
back. )long about this time you should notice a very nice smell. This is the
curing smell and it smells a little like baking bread along with a piney or fruity or
skunky smell from the pot. This is the nice smell you want your herb to have. If
you notice the least bit of a nasty or rotten smell it is probably mold and you
need to check very closely. )fter the leaves start to get a little stiff and you have
restricted the air flow it takes anywhere from a week to 9 week more to finish it.
$hen to stop is up to you. (ou might want to decide by the color of the herb.
It gets less green as it goes along. Huds will retain the green color longer than
will the leaves. Huds may still be green at the end of the cure but not @uite as
bright a shade of green. (ou will be the proud possessor of a stash of sweet
smoking, good tasting buds without the harshness of fresh cured smoke.
577
Addin! B)a0ors
!eople pay a lot of money to get seeds they think will grow pot that smells like
blueberries or chocolate or something else. Aften these strains are hard to grow
or may not be as potent or high yielding as other less e7pensive varieties.
!eople want to know if orange bud smells and tastes like an orange. $ith the
proper techni@ues you can make your favorite variety smell and often times
taste like anything you want. (ou want to do this without ruining the cure. It#s
no point having blueberry pot that burns your throat or doesn#t get you high.
8o not pour any syrup or similar flavorings on your pot. The sugar will make it
very harsh and you are inviting mold. There are better ways. The best flavor
enhancing starts while the plant is still growing. (ou can do a certain amount
while it#s curing and you can even affect the smellFflavor somewhat after it#s
been cured. There are two main approaches, inside out and outside in. (ou can
apply flavors inside the plant while it#s still growing and you can try to add
flavors after it#s been harvested but this is from the outside. )nything you put in
your plants water will affect the taste of the finished product particularly if you
harvest it right afterwards. .any growers learn this lesson the hard way. Ane
grower even reported fertiliBed using fish emulsion right before he topped the
plant. Had move" His resulting top smelled like fish and had a foul taste. (uck.
$hat you want to do is select a flavoring that is very concentrated. ;ets take
orange for an e7ample. (ou could use orange uice but if you could find
concentrated orange e7tract you would have less pulp etc to deal with. (ou will
find some concentrated flavor e7tracts in the grocery store. $ant your pot to
smell like vanillaC 2anilla e7tract is cheap and readily available, so is lemon
e7tract=cooking variety>. Ather e7tracts can be found in stores that specialiBe in
baking supplies. ;ets say you can#t find any of that and you want to use what
you have on hand. I took the e7ample of orange flavoring. If all you have is
orange uice you could use that. I would suggest filtering it first to get out as
much of the pulp as possible. ) coffee filter works well but it#ll take a while to
filter it all. (ou may have to change filters a few times. Those with hydroponic
units will shudder at the thought of a lot of goop going through their system.
That#s why I suggested the concentrated e7tracts if you can find them. It#s
important to do this shortly before harvest. :or one thing, most e7tracts
including the ones you make up yourself have a lot of sugar in them. This sugar
578
will ferment and decay rapidly, even more so in a hydro unit. $ith hydro I
recommend putting the flavoring in the water between 6 and 4 hours before
harvest. This rule isn#t set in stone but I heard from one grower who used a
sugar based clearing solution on his crop and less than 1/ hours later the water
was foaming from bacteria growth. !lants draw up solution fairly @uickly so one
hour should be enough for some of the flavoring to reach the top. Three hours
should not be enough time for bacteria to grow but you will want to dump out
the solution right afterwards and clean out your unit. Gse plain water for a few
days before harvesting your hydro crop so all that will be in the water will be the
flavoring.
If you are a soil grower it#s even easier. (ou might think it would take longer for
the flavor to work it#s way through the plant but this is not the case. )ll you
have to do is let the plant dry out a little before your apply the solution. In other
words schedule a watering ust before harvest. Daturally you were giving your
plants plain water for several days to a week or two before harvest weren#t youC
-ive the plant the water with the flavor when it#s a little bit thirsty and it will
draw it right up. Ane hour is more than enough time for this to happen. )fter
harvest it#s important to give it a good cure. 'esist the temptation to fast dry
some of the weed to try it out. (ou will find it#s even more harsh than it would
be normally because you have added some sugar to the plant by way of the
flavoring. The curing process will take care of the e7tra sugar and give you nice
mild smoke. It will also have the flavor and aroma you are looking for.
$hat some people think is a nice hint of strawberry may be way too strong to
the ne7t person. $hat one grower thinks is very blueberry may not smell or
taste like blueberry to his friend. I suggest that you don#t treat your whole crop
this way while you are e7perimenting. 0oil growers will find this easy because
they could use something different in each pot. Hydroponic people may want to
isolate a plant or two with the solution. This wouldn#t be very hard because you
wouldn#t need circulation for the short period of time it would be soaking in it.
Ather things you could try are guava, pineapple, grapefruit, passion fruit, cherry,
mint or even pina colada. 0tronger and more concentrated flavorings will have a
more pronounced effect than more dilute products. (ou may need gallons of
orange uice to get what you want but a half ounce of concentrated strawberry
essence might do the ob nicely.
579
In short, e7periment and see what works for you. The other approach is to use
something in the curing process. !eople have had good results with orange
peel, lemon peel or other citrus peels. This will only give a bit of odor, it#s not as
strong a techni@ue as the previous one I mentioned. :or those who ust want a
hint of something this may work fine. It#s important to watch very closely for
mold when curing. The moisture from the peels may promote mold if you#re not
careful. ;et the herb dry for a day or two before you add the peels This might
work a little bit with pot that#s already cured and dried but it#s less effective at
that point.
'at/r Curin!
$ater curing is an innovative idea. The resin in mariuana is not water soluble,
so everything in the plant that is water soluble is an impurity. $ater curing
involves taking dry mariuana and submerging it in distilled=or at least not
chlorinated> room temperature water=room temp is important, heat degrades
potency and cold will make trichomes brittle>. +hange the water daily. This can
be done for anywhere from 4*6/ days and results in a dark chocolate brown
mariuana. $e mariuana is wet mariuana and the same slow drying techni@ues
should be used to remove the moisture from the mariuana the second time
around to insure complete drying.
Curin! U 5ot/nc, /0/)
+uring does affect mariuana potency in a very positive manner. +uring cannabis
after harvesting for few days to several months will improve the potency, as well
as the taste and te7ture of the buds. )s you knowJ curing takes place after
cannabis has been harvested, manicured and partially dried. .ost cannabis will
retain a significant @uantity of moisture within its stems and inner buds even
when the outside feels dry. This is especially true for very dense buds, more
care must be taken in drying loose airy buds because sometimes they can dry
too fast.
580
Cur/d Buds Und/r!o a7
'eduction in +hlorophyll content.
'eduction in plant starch content.
'eduction in nitrate levels.
;oss of moisture.
;oss of volatile terpenoids, and the polycyclic aromatiBation of other
terpenoids.
There are several process and effects which take place during curing that can
rationally and scientifically e7plain the increase in potency and improvement of
the smoke in cured materialO
Moistur/ Cont/nt7 .oisture is essential for the curing process, it is both your
friend and enemy. If too much moisture is left in the buds, with out the regular
mi7ing, venting and turning of buds involved with curing, molds and bacteria
can @uickly form and ruin the taste and potency of your stash. An the other
hand, without the necessary moisture metabolic processes essential to curing do
not take place.
:resh cannabis plants are around 3?P water=all Ps by weight>J curing generally
begins after the cannabis has lost half of its initial mass, and contains
appro7imately 44P of its initial water.
Ance curing is complete and the pot is dry, it should still contain 6?*65P
moisture, appro7imately 1*/P of its initial water. This is an ideal because most
bacteria and molds can not grow below 65P water content, and below 6?P
cannabis buds tend to powder.
Cannabinoid Con0/rsion7 Daturally, as the metabolic processes continue
during curing, the conversion of cannabergerol to tetrahydrocannabinol will
continue and the potency of the pot will increase. This is because
cannabergerol=+H-> is the non*psychoactive precursor for
tetrahydrocannabinol=TH+>. Af course, the e7act change in TH+ content will
necessarily be dependant upon the concentration of +H- in the fresh material at
harvest. Af course any remaining precursors necessary to form additional
cannabidiol=+H8> and other cannabinoids will also be consumed and converted.
581
He aware though if curing is e7cessively prolonged=most connoisseurs would
agree after 9 months no more benefit could be had from curing>, the conversion
of TH+ to non*psychoactive cannabinol=+HD> will occur. The e7act rate of
decomposition can vary widely depending on handling and storage conditions,
but can be less than 6?P to greater than /?P decomposition per year.
Continu/d M/tabo)is87 )lso as these metabolic process take place, the plant
needs energy which leads it to consume the sugars, starches, nitrates, and
minerals. .any of these compounds are metaboliBed and released as water and
carbon dio7ide, therefore removing what is essentially inert material from the
pot increasing the concentration of cannabinoids therefore making it more
potent.
.uch of these positive metabolic processes can be most effectively begun with
thourough flushing and stripping of the plant before harvest. This will help
reduce the amount of time necessary for a good cure.
582
+uring will not only improve potency, but the color and look of most cannabis
buds because as the chlorophyll is broken down purple, gold, and white
coloration can emerge and the trichomes will appear more pronounced.
D/carbo4,)ation7 0ome decarbo7yliBation will take place during curing as well.
This happens when the carbo7yl group =+AAH> located at +*1, +*/, or the end
of the hydrocarbon chain at +*4 is destroyed leaving a hydrogen attached and
liberating +A1.
8ecarbo7yliBation is necessary to convert cannabinoids to usable psychoactive
formsJ the plants=and your body> carbo7yliBe cannabinoids to make them more
soluble in water=for metabolic reactions and e7cretion>.
'esearch indicates that this effect is fairly minimal during the curing process
though. 8ecarbo7yliBation will take place naturally very rapidly at temperatures
of over 6??+. 0o smoking and most any cooking will decarbo7yliBe the
cannabinoids. )s decarbo7yliBation occurs, the loss of +A1 will liberate a small
amount of inert material making the pot more potent via concentration of the
cannabinoids.
Tast/ U Odor7 Terpenoids are the highly volatile compounds that give
mariuana much of its characteristic odors, and therefore tastes.
The most current research also suggests terpenoids lend to the high, sometimes
very significantly. +annabinoids are phenolated terepenes so its not surprising
that many hundreds of different terpenoids are synthesiBed as well.
)s pot ages, some of the terpenoids go through polycyclic aromatiBation in the
process of decomposition. This agglomeration of terpenoids will change the
flavorJ hence the ability of cured pot to show flavors that didn#t seem present in
the original fresh material. .uch of the very volatile terpenoids will also
evaporate and or decompose, especially with prolonged curing or storage. This
action will remove some matter from the pot increasing the cannabinoid
concentration and therefore potency. It must be noted that e7cessively long
curing or storage, higher temperatures, or e7tremely low moisture content will
cause such through evaporation of the terpenoids that the cannabis will
583
generally loose almost all of its natural flavors.
B/r8/ntation7 $hen vegetation dries, the individual cells which maintained
life processes die. Hut mariuana can still be conditioned by means of
fermentation. :ermentation is the process in which microbes and plant enBymes
break down comple7 chemicals into simpler ones, mainly starch and sugars into
alcohol and simple acids. In the process chlorophyll is destroyed, giving the
material a more ripened appearance. If the fermentation is stopped early, the
mariuana has a sweeter taste because of the sugars which the ferment
produced.
584
:ermentation occurs when the moisture content of the mariuana is raised
above 65 percent and the temperature is above 9?Y:=65Y+>. The more tightly
packed the material, that faster the ferment proceeds. The rate of ferment is
controlled primarily by varying the moisture content, but each batch proceeds at
its own rate because of differences between plants in nitrogen content.
=Ditrogen is necessary to maintain fermenting bacteria.> The process is delicateJ
should the ferment proceed too rapidly, the mariuana may be converted to
compost. $atch the fermentation closely. )fter the desired colour or
flavour=from a dried sample> is reached, dry the grass @uickly to stop the
process.
8uring fermentation, flavorings can be added to give the mariuana a spicy
aroma. 0uch spices as cinnamon, cloves, ginger, mace, sage, or vanilla are
placed between the fermenting material. Arange, lemon, or lime peels are also
used. )bout half an ounce of spice or four ounces of peel are used for each
cubic foot of material to be fermented. The spices are wrapped in cloth sachets.
The citrus peels are strung. They can be placed between the layers of
mariuana.
There are two types of fermentationsO self*generating and forced. They are best
used with leaves or immature plants.
(/)6AG/n/ratin! B/r8/ntation7 0elf*generating fermentation proceeds
rapidly only when there is enough material to make a heap at least one cubic
yard large. $hen smaller @uantities are used, too much of the heat generated
by the bacteria is dissipated, so that the process is slow and is more properly
considered aging.
!lace the material in a large container or in a pile with a tarpaulin placed over it,
and lightly spray it with a mister if it is dry. ;et the pile heat up for a few days,
and then break it down. If it is repacked, the mariuana will develop a dull matte
appearance and lose its sugars. I: the process is allowed to proceed even
further, the mariuana will disintegrate.
585
Borc/d B/r8/ntation7 :orced fermentation can be used with small @uantities
of material. It re@uires an enclose chamber in which heat and humidity can be
regulated. !ack the mariuana loosely in a kiln or other chamber, and raise the
temperature to 645Y:=55.1Y+>. .aintain humidity at 55 percent. +heck the
progress of the ferment periodically. $ithin a week the ferment should be
completed. 8uring this ferment there is a release of ammonia compounds,
resulting in some foul odors, but upon completion of the ferment and drying,
the mariuana should smoke sweet and mellow.
Curin! 'it" G)ass Cannin! ;ars (t/-AB,A(t/-
This method for glass canning ars gives the strongest aroma and best te7ture
for smoking. Here#s the procedure, it couldn#t get easierO
(t/- 1? +ut, manicure, hang your plants in a cool, dark place until totally crispy
and smokeable in a oint K usually will be for 5 to 3 days. Aptimum conditions
are 93*5/Y:=1?*14.4Y+> and between 5?P and 9?P 'H.
(t/- %? !lace bud gently into wide*mouth glass canning ars. +lose the lid until
buds sweat=usually 1 or 4 hours the first time>. Apen ars and let buds dry to
crispy again. If you are curing larger buds you have to get some air in there and
turn the buds over. ;arger colas usually have enough flow around them so you
don#t have to mess with them too much unless they are really touching each
other inside the ar. He gentle.
(t/- 3? 'epeat the sweating process * open the ar until crisp, close until
sweated. )fter about a week of this=depending on location>, you get to that
perfect point of curing where there is enough moisture to keep it smelling
strong but as soon as you take it out of the ar to smoke, it crisps up and can be
rolled.
586
(torin! Marijuana
$hen curing and storing your precious buds that you have waited so long to
finally enoy, the single most important investment you can make is a @uality
container. The absolute best container for curing and storage of cannabis buds
is an all glass ar, with a large opening for easy access. $ide*mouth ars with
glass bodies and tops with a rubber seal are an ideal choice. Dever store
cannabis in plastic" )lways glass. -enerally try to avoid all plastics in direct or
close contact with your cannabis * these materials are slightly porous and the
phenolic acids and terpenoids can react with plastics, leaving your buds a bitter
aftertaste. This never happens with glass. $ith a proper rubberiBed top, glass
containers also offers tighter seals=which means creamy*centred, incredibly
potent, tasty preserved buds>.
Gsing a wrong container means a cruddy cure and bitter*tasting weak buds. )s
featured in High Times .agaBine, /1? 0cience has created specialiBed medicinal
mariuana storing ars to guarantee elite bud preservation. These high*@uality
containers contain hermetically*sealed lids and are made of 6??P Italian
borosilicate glass. These superior containers ensure your buds stay super fresh.
/1? 0cience#s /1? %ars come in all sorts of siBes=up to a monster siBe 6.5
gallon">, colors, and designs. (ou can even totally customiBe
any cool artwork you want on the outside"
587
0o in order to store your mariuana properly, gently handle and place your fresh
mariuana into the containers=you may have to cut the buds to siBe if they don#t
fit> and then seal the lid. 0tore the containers in a dark area where the
temperature is between 5?*95Y:=6?*1/./Y+> and the humidity is between /?P*
9?P.
It#s recommended to open up the containers 4*9 times daily for a few minutes
to allow moisture to escape by fanning with your hand. )lso shake the bud
around a bit every couple of days. If any moisture builds up on the inside of the
cap, wipe it off. )lso, give the buds about a @uarter turn once a day. This will
ensure that different parts of the buds are e7posed to the air in the container,
ma7imiBing drying effectiveness. +ontinue to do this for 5*6? days. $hen
properly dried, mariuana will burn evenly when smoked in a oint=if all the
stems are removed that is>.
If using glass, the taste will be of supreme @uality and the TH+ will have finally
reached a point where it is ready to be ingested or stored. (ou don#t have to
keep opening the containers to release moisture after the initial [3 day curing
period.
If you#re planning on storing your buds for a year then they should definitely be
sealed in an airtight container and stored in a location that is dark and cool. )
freeBer works best but it is totally fine to store them in a fridge, basement, or
closet. %ust remember in order to preserve the mariuana potency at the
ma7imum level then storing mariuana near light, air and heat are the things
you want to avoid.
588
It is not recommended to store your dried buds in the freeBer. 0ome of the TH+
can become easily damaged when froBen. 'efrigerators also contain too much
humidity. If you can somehow control the humidity levels in your refrigerator
then this is an acceptable storage location.
If you plan on storing your mariuana for a few months or so then you will need
to purchase a vacuum sealer=for sealing food> to seal the mariuana in a
completely airtight sterile environment. If stored in a dark area that is between
/?*55Y:=/.//*61.5Y+>, the the mariuana in vacuum sealed plastic will keep your
buds potent, healthy, and MvintageN for up to 5 years"
Not/7 I6 8arijuana is stor/d in an ar/a o6 "i!" "u8idit,>suc" as t"/ b/ac" or
tro-ica) c)i8at/?C /0/n 0acuu8 s/a)/d 8arijuana can /0/ntua)), b/co8/ as "u8id
as t"/ surroundin! air. No $orri/sC as )on! as ,ou 9/-t a c)os/ /,/ on it and no
8o)d $as a))o$/d to 6or8 on ,our buds t"is just 8/ans ,ouK)) "a0/ to dr, it a!ain
b/6or/ s8o9in!. As )on! as t"/r/ is abso)ut/), IE2O 8o)d t"/n t"/ "u8idit, its/)6
$i)) not d/!rad/ t"/ T+C Dua)it,.
'A2NING7 Ma9/ sur/ ,our stora!/ /n0iron8/nt is DA2J. An, )i!"t
$i)) d/!rad/ ,our -r/cious T+C.
Bina) (tora!/ ti-s7
!otency during curing and storage can be maintained by observing some basic
precautionsO
The buds need to be kept in the dark, protected from light, which will
@uickly decomposes the TH+.
.oderated temperatures should be observed during curing, 5?*55Y:=6?*
14.3Y+> being ideal.
&7cessively hot temperatures will promote o7idation and the growth of
mold and bacteria, and very cold temperatures can prolong curing and
drying for up to several months.
8uring storage, buds should be stored as cold as possible, if
temperatures of 41Y:=?Y+> or less are to be used, make sure the bud is
dried to a very low moisture content before storage=to ensure that cell
589
walls are not burst by the freeBing water>.
If prolonged storage is planned evacuating the o7ygen and replacing it
with carbon dio7ide, nitrogen, argon, nitrous o7ide, or any other inert
gas will help slow o7idation, as well as the addition of antio7idants such
as ascorbic acid packets or vitamin + tablets.
The most stable way to store cannabis is as whole unbroken buds or
unpressed trichomes. &7cessive rough handling or pressing can easily
damage the protective cell walls and plant wa7es that help protect
cannabinoids from o7idation.
2/!/n/ration:2/ju0/nation
)fter a seedling has been grown to maturity and the buds are harvested, you
may realiBe you want to perpetuate a plant you neglected to take cuttings from.
This is possible through a techni@ue known as regenerating. The regeneration
process begins at harvest. High grade favorable plants that have already been
harvested can be forced back into the vegetative cycle and then into flowering.
There is no seed preparation, cutting, planting, or re*potting involved. To
regenerate, rather than cutting the plant down at the stem as you would
normally during harvest time, you leave it intact with a few branches. He sure to
leave some vegetation and growing tips on the plant to increase its survival
rate.
+ut the main stalk down to the point where below which several growth tips or
buds are remaining. 'eturn the plant to a vegetative fertiliBer and constant
photoperiod. Aver the ne7t several weeks, the plant will elongate and develop
new upward growth. It is very important not to overwater the plant after it has
been cut back. The reduced above ground plant structure is still being fed by
the entire e7isting root system, which can cause an e7cessive amount of water
uptake and the resultant stress associated. The use of fertiliBers containing
some ammonium form nitrogen, such as chicken manure, will encourage rapid
growth and stem elongation. Trace element supplements, co1 and strong light
are helpful.
590
Ance the plants are pruned, leave the lights on continuously. The plants will
switch into vegetative growth and start to grow in about 6*1 weeks. They can
be forced to flower once more when they reach their desired siBe. ) common
method is to first grow the plant indoors and then after harvest regenerate it
outdoors in the spring.
5runin! 2/!/n/rat/d 5)ants
!lants that are regenerated, cloned and even grown from seed will need to be
pruned at some point to encourage the plant to produce as much as possible
and remain healthy. !runing the lower limbs creates more air*flow under the
plants in an indoor situation and creates cuttings for cloning. It also forces the
plant#s effort to the top limbs that get the most light, ma7imiBing yields.
!lants that are regenerated need to have minor growth clipped so that the main
regenerated growth will get all the plant#s energy. This means that once the
plant has started to regenerate lots of growth, the lower limbs that will be
shaded or are not robust should go. The growth must be thinned on top
branches such that only the most robust growth is allowed to remain.
Ane nice aspect of regenerating plants is that some small buds left on the plant
in anticipation of regeneration will not sprout new growth and may be collected
for smoke. The plant may provide much smokeable material if it is caught
before all the old flowers dry up and die with the new vegetative growth
occurring.
Try to trim a regenerated plant twice. Ance as it is starting to regenerate, collect
any bud that is not sprouting with new growth and smoke it. Then later, prune
again to take lower clippings to clone and thin the upper growth so that larger
buds will be produced. If a regenerated plant is not pruned at all, the resulting
plant is very stemmy, does not create large buds, and the total yield will be
significantly reduced.
591
+as"is"
0ince so much time, labour, and cost has gone into the production of each plant,
growers do not overlook utiliBation of the QshakeQ or leaves. &7traction involves
the process of removing the essential oil, TH+ resin, from the leaves remaining
on the plant and those removed during pruning.
Hashish is a psychoactive drug derived from the +annabis plant. It is solid, of
varying hardness and pliability, softening under heat. Its colour can vary from
reddish brown to black, and can also be greenish or golden. It is usually smoked
in pipes, and sometimes in oints mi7ed with tobacco or +annabis buds. It can
also be added to cookies or other food and ingested. Hash is used for its
rela7ing and mind*altering effects. .any people have claimed that using it gives
them enlightened insights.
Hashish is comprised of the compressed trichomes collected from the leaves and
flowers of a mature, flowering +annabis plant. +ertain strains of +annabis are
cultivated specifically for their ability to produce large @uantities of trichomes,
592
and are thus called hash plants. Trichomes are small glandular hairs containing
plant resins which appear on the leaves and stems of the +annabis plant.
Hash oil is a solution of tetrahydrocannabinol, but is a misnomer in suggesting
any resemblance to hashish. It is made out of cannabis and is very potent due
to its high TH+ concentration, which generally varies between 65 and 1?P, but
can reach 9? to 5?P in some cases.
Hash oil is most often dropped on a cigarette or a oint, or it is mi7ed in food
=such as brownies or 0cooby 0nacks>.
5roduction
Hash oil is produced by allowing a solvent to dissolve the psychoactive
cannabinoids that are present in mariuana. These cannabinoids remain behind
when the solvent is subse@uently evaporated, leaving a relatively pure, high*
potency form of mariuana. The color and odor of the resulting e7tract will vary,
depending on the type of solvent used. +urrent samples of hash oil, a viscous
li@uid ranging from amber to dark brown in color, average about 65 percent
tetrahydrocannabinol.
2arious solvents are suitable for the production of hash oil. Isopropyl alcohol,
petroleum ether, and acetone are three commonly used solvents. 0upercritical
fluid e7traction methods using various volatile compressed gases are also
rumored to be used.
Hutane is advantageous to use as it has a boiling point of 46Y:=f?.9Y+>,
meaning that it will fully evaporate when left for long enough at room
temperature. Hutane is cheap and widely available in the form of Mlighter refillN
cans. Hutane also has the advantage of not dissolving the chlorophyll
component of whole cannabis * it dissolves mainly the psychoactive resins.
8rawbacks include the risk of e7plosion associated with large volumes of butane
gas, and the possibility of contaminants in the butane or the e7traction vessel.
HHA, or butane hash oil is a common term for the output produced by butane
e7traction of cannabis. Q!urgingQ of the product or further processing is highly
suggested in order to remove any trapped butaneFsolvent=s>.
593
Instead of throwing away all those resin*covered leaves you cut off during your
harvest, you can instead turn them into dank hashish" 'esin filled TH+ glands
are produced &2&'($H&'& on the plant. It is produced on the stems, leaves,
and vegetation surrounding the flowers. The leaves near the flowers are most
potent, followed by the younger and then older fan leaves. Aur goal is then to
seperate the TH+ from the plant and make it into concentrated Hash.
Dot all glands are created e@ual. The @uality of mariuana affects the @uality of
the hash. &very cannabis varieties# number of glands varies per s@uare
centimeter.
'"at is E+as"F @
(ou see the gland heads=the rounded tips of your trichomes> secrete maor
cannabiniods=TH+> in an oil*like substance that you can remove by rubbing your
fingers over the bud. This is what is known as resin. The stalks that support the
gland head contain less cannabiniods than the actual glandular ball heads.
594
Ma9in! +as"
Hash is made by knocking the trichomes off the surface of the plant, by either
mechanical action, and then by pressing the glands together into a glob*like ball
or cake. 8epending on the method used, the hash may consist of gland heads
and stalks and various contaminants, such as the elements mentioned above,
and small bits and pieces of plant tissue. Hash made purely from gland heads is
very strong and compresses to a hard plastic*like lump with hand pressure.
Hash with a lot of contaminants may re@uire heat and pressure to compact.
Hashish contains lots of TH+=15*4?P is totally common"> )long with the
potency of the oil itself, the ratio of oil to powdered mariuana determines
strength.
595
(8o9in! +as"
The effect of smoking hash can differ from the parent plant, as the heads of the
stalked glands may contain more TH+ in comparison to the side chemicals than
the stalks and the tissues of the plant. Hash made only from the heads of the
stalked glands is very potent, and can create an uplifting high similar to a
vaporiBer hit, though deeper and more persistent. )s more stalks are added to
the hash, the character of the high changes in various ways, though typically
good hash has a strong initial rush and a mild, soft letdown. The cystolith and
hair trichomes add nothing to the high, but may add to the flavor.
Helieve it or not there#s actually a little trick to smoking hash. (ou can#t ust
break a big ol# chunk off and go at it, all that#ll produce for you is a burned coal.
)n easy techni@ue for properly smoking hash is to place a small chunk of it on
the end of a paper clip and light it on fire. It will take a second to flame up.
)fter a second or two of burning blow it out and instantly break it up by
spreading it between your thumb and forefinger. If you break it all up @uickly
enough it will fluff up into a little pile of dark crystals. (ou can these stick these
in your pipe and puff away. He careful when smoking, you will probably cough
up a storm. Take small MsipsN and watch out, the cherries might burn your
tongue if inhaled too sharply.
+as" 2atin!
The .oroccan rating system for hash, starting with double Bero, then Bero, and
so on referred to the stage of sifting from which the glands were collected. Iero
Bero comes from the first pass, Bero from the second and lesser grades from
subse@uent passes over the mesh screen. $ith each screening a higher
proportion of impurities mi7es with the glands.
5r/-arin! Vs9u66V
Hefore we get into making hash, it is essential to prepare skuff. 0kuff=QshakeQ or
bud trim>, simply put is leaves and undersiBed flower parts that are trimmed off
of cannabis buds. Gnless glands can be seen on the surface of the leaves, they
should not be collected as skuff, as all they can provide to the hash is
596
contaminants. 0ometimes a leaf will have a frosted appearance, but on closer
e7amination the structures on the leaf turn out to consist principally of hairs,
common on the stalks of fan leaves. The first tool needed in making hash is a
handheld magnification device to observe the plant surfaces.
In order to be ready for smoking, the TH+ oil must be dried. )lso in order to
allow mechanical skuffing the plant material must be dried as well. It is not
necessary that the skuff be QcuredQ as buds are, because the vegetable material
will not be used in any way. Hut I have found that the skuff needs to be
thoroughly dried over a long period of time, at least a month, though I prefer
two. 0kuff processed before that time is not as potent as it should be, and the
resulting hash seems never to dry properly to gain the potency back.
0kuffing done in cold, dry conditions will prematurely kick out a lot of cystolith
mineral trichomes. The ideal skuffing environment is at low room temperature
appro7imately 9?Y:=65Y+> or so and at normal humidity. )lthough it has been
reported that e7cellent hash has been made in colder and hotter conditions.
The skuff shouldn#t be physically altered. ) drum machine will remove nearly all
the drug potential from the plant, regardless of the shape and siBe of the leaf
parts. $ith large leaf pieces, like those produced by the buds of certain strains,
a mechanical aid can be introduced into the machine, like a rubber ball. The ball
will gently press the leaf pieces to the screen over time. +runching up the skuff
will only serve to introduce vegetable contaminants into the hash, and will
release cystolith and unicellular hairs into the first product from the skuffing, a
product which should be the most pure. He very gentle with the skuff"
597
+as" E4traction M/t"ods
Hash is the collected and pressed resin glands from buds. The best hash is
QblondQ =in reference to its light tan color>J only the pure resin crystals are used.
-reen hash is the ne7t grade, it contains much more of the plant matter than
the blond hash giving it its characteristic green appearance. Hlack hash is
generally either hand rubbed hash, which has turned black because of TH+
o7idation or a mi7ture of keef =the crystalline resin glands> and other
psychoactive alkaloids.
The methods of collecting this resin vary depending on who makes it and what
materials are being used. Typically, most hash is made from the manicured leaf
left over from trimming fresh pot, but some is made from buds, and can be
chemically e7tracted from all manner of herb leftovers. 'eal hash handles easily
and tends to stick to itself, instead of you. Gnder very brief heat, it becomes
598
very soft and easy to crumble or smear into little hash curls that can be rolled
into cigarettes, or thrown on bowls or hot knives. 'emember the best hash is
made from the best bud"
Traditiona) 5r/-arations
1. Cr,sta) Co))/ction7
)> Hand rubbing * Hand rubbing is the practice of accumulating lots of resin on
your hands then rubbing them together to produce small black balls of hash.
0cissors hash is very similar, it is taken off of manicure scissors when pruning
bud. This is probably the least effective method of making hash because the
hand rubbing breaks open the resin glands o7idiBing TH+ and giving it a black
color, but sometimes it#s convenient if handling lots of bud.
H> 0ieving * An it#s most crude level, a sieve is a piece of cloth stretched over a
pot, which you break up, handle, bounce, or scrape your buds over to knock the
resin glands off into the bowl. The best screens are siBed at 65? microns and
only allow the resin glands and some fine debris to fall through. They can be
obtained from hobby and art supply stores. -reen keef can be re*sieved to
make it more blonde, the plant matter will tend to float on the screen while the
crystals fall through. )lternatively, hash can then be turned over a 5?*micron
screen, which will allow most of the debris to fall through, but leaves the keef.
To ma7imiBe the resin collection, the bud or budleaf trimmings should be
e7tremely dry and cold. !ut it in the freeBer for a few hours before processing.
+ruder sieved type hash is made bye drying or rolling dried pot in burlap bags,
the resins tend to stick to the sides leaving hash.
+> $ater e7traction * ) crude water e7traction can be done with some really dry
pot and a ar full of ice water. 8on#t fill the ar more than 6F5 full of material,
throw in some ice cubes and cold water, shake, and voila" The resin tends to
sink to the bottom while the leaf matter floats. The vegetation is removed the
crystals caught in a coffee filter. ) more advanced e7traction can be done with
65?*micron pore bag to separate the crystals from the leaf. The remaining leaf
can be saved to make butter or honey oil.
599
%. 5r/ssin!7
Ance the keef has been collected it can then be pressed into hash. Eeef needs
pressure and warmth to become that dense lovely TH+ laden wonder called
hash. 2ery small amounts can be pressed between your fingers and rolled into a
ball=if done in a piece of cellophane it will help inhibit TH+ degradation>.
)lternatively, a precision press can be used, it#s important to have a good die
fitted to ?.??6 inches, unless you want to s@ueeBe a bunch of your hard won
keef to smash into the gap in the die. Ance pressed, most hash tends to darken
on the outside but remains blond in the middle. .ake sure to pre*press water*
e7tracted hash in a piece of cellophane to help get rid of the water.
C"/8ica) 5r/-arations
1. <o)ati)/ (o)0/nt E4traction7
) volatile solvent e7traction is the simplest method of chemical e7traction since
it involves simple e@uipment and solvents that are li@uids at room temperature,
but low boiling points. -ood choices for solvents are alcohols and fine petroleum
distillates =&- <<P isopropyl alcohol, <5P ethyl alcohol, and white gas>,
ketones tend to redu7 with the cannibinoids, and naphia and heavier solvents
are too hard to drive off. !ick a solvent that boils at less than <? degrees
:ahrenheit, and e7hibits non*polar tendencies.
0oak your dry weed in the solvent for a few hours to a couple of days, the
longer you soak it the more trash comes with the solvent. Then separate the
solvent and evaporate. The left over gum is chemically e7tracted hash. Typically
it tends to have a greenFblack color because most solvent also dissolve plant
wa7es and chlorophyll, as well as cannibinoids. This green oil can be cleaned
from dark green *Z light green *Z red *Z amber using an activated carbon filter
on the solution before evaporation. %ust fill a tube or funnel with activated
carbon =fish tanks, air filters> and run the uice through it. If allowed to soak in
ethyl alcohol =usually vodka> and left diluted the green solution is usually
refereed to as green dragon, and is drank for some intense effects.
600
%. i-id Bas/d E4traction7
+annabutter.
>(// b/)o$ 6or "o$ to 8a9/ it.?
3. Dir/ct Iso8/ri=ation7
0ometimes if the pot is crappy, or you#re dealing with a bunch of roaches,
trimmings, or some other inferior source of TH+ it is desirable to go well beyond
what a simple volatile solvent or super critical fluid e7traction can do. (ou want
to convert all those free available cannibidiols into more potent TH+ analogs and
cannabinols.
This techni@ue also will render a fully decarbo7yliBed end product, as well as
destroying many terpenes and aromatics which can improve or destroy a
product depending on the original @uality. It is important to understand this is
not a full conversion to <*TH+, but to TH+ analogs and more active cannibidiols,
and is included in this discussion more as an educational e7ercise. Hasic
isomeriBation takes place with a @uick reflu7 of your cannabinoids in the
presence of any H+ source=acid>.
6. Treat your stuff as if it were a volatile solvent or critical fluid e7traction.
1. $ith the remaining resin, dissolve it in a non*polar solvent. He sure to use
one that separates easily from water such as naphia or white gas.
4. Treat this mi7ture with sulphuric or hydrochloric acid until a pH around 6*1 is
reached=appro7imately one drop of concentrated acid per gram of e7tract>.
/. !lace this in a reflu7 apparatus and cook it for about an hour. In case you#re
not familiar this is basically ust !yre7 breaker with a large looped tube plugged
into the top. This will cause the solution inside to be e7posed to elevated
pressures as well as temperatures, as well as preserving all of the original
contents. 0imply simply boiling the mi7ture in a small strong covered vessel can
mimic it.
5. $ash whats left with water, keep the oil layer.
9. DeutraliBe your mi7=bring it to pH 5.?> with a little 0odium Hydro7ide solution
=pH <.?> or baking soda then rewash it with water. 0ave the oil layer again.
601
5. )llow your oil to evaporate and you should be left with a sticky amber li@uid
that contains almost pure TH+.
I would recommend an e7traction for a starting point, since if you start clean
your product can only get much better. Ance you#ve obtained nearly pure TH+,
converting it to an acetate is supposed to produce more psychedelic like effects.
.ore TH+ analog modifications can be made=to yield pure < or 9 TH+>, but
generally the consumption of the original products in these reactions makes
them hardly worth while=usually 5*1?P yeild, so it may be half as psychoactive
but you have 5 times as much of it in the beginning>.
+as" Oi)
Hash oil is basically hash in which the walls of the resin glands have been
broken down leaving a gooey oil. Aften chemically*e7tracted hash will be almost
an oil, or keef can be dissolved in alcohol, then the alcohol is allowed to
evaporate. Hash oil can be smoked like hash in cigarettes, bowls, hot knives,
reconstituted into a more hash like substance with the addition of ash or
powdered plant matter, or applied to bud to make it more potent =way more
potent">.
+as" Additi0/s U 5r/-arations7
) variety of different plant e7tracts can be, and sometimes have been, added to
hash for more a more intense psychedelic e7perience. -enerally only a very
small portion of additive is added for the amount of keef available, ma7ing out
around 1?P additive and around 5P additive on the low end.
Ma9in! +as" 3 T"/ 5ri8ar, M/t"ods
The first is flat screening. This is accomplished by using a silk screen frame with
fine plastic fabric. :ine steel screens are also used in flat screening. The method
involves rubbing cannabis trim across the surface of the screen, the glands and
other contaminants dropping through the screen to be collected on a surface
602
like a piece of glass. ) flat screen can also be used with an electric motor rigged
to produce a back and forth or vibrating motion.
The second method also uses screen, but in a rotating drum, typically motoriBed
using a rotisserie*type motor. ) rotating machine takes less skill to use. ) drum
machine can remove nearly all the glands without depositing any plant tissue.
This would be very difficult when solely using a flat screen.
The third methodO the glands can also be knocked off the plant by agitating the
material in ice water. The glands sink to the bottom of the mi7ture and can be
sieved, dried and pressed together. $hile this method re@uires only a blender
and a coffee filter, it seems to produce more contaminants than screening, and
the output cant be controlled as well, if at all.
B)at (cr//nin!
:lat screens can be made from commercial steel fabric, usually available by
special order in printing supply shops, or from plastic silk screen fabric. Hecause
the grade of the hash from a flat screen depends on the vigor of the handling,
screens with smaller holes are better, in the range of 66? lines per inch to 645
at the high end. ) 615 QmeshQ frame is a good compromise. The silk screen
material is attached by glue to the bottom of the wood frame, leaving a well on
top with the wood pieces forming the sides.
.aking good hash from flat screens depends on a lot of personal involvement.
The method is simple. The frame is placed over a collection surface, like a sheet
of glass or a mirror. I like to attach small wooden blocks to the bottom of the
screen frame so that it can be used right side up, with the flat side of the frame
on the bottom. That way the skuff is held within the walls of the frame as it is
skuffed. The skuff is placed in the frame and is gently pushed back and forth
over the screen with a pusher, like a credit card.
.aking the best grade of hash can be done by applying almost no pressure to
the skuff as it is moved around on the screen. Theres no way that a flat screen
can produce as much of the top product as a drum machine, since a lot of the
capitate glands will not be in contact with the screen unless pushed into it. The
603
pressure of the tumbling skuff accomplishes that in a gentle fashion in a drum
machine, but e7tra pressure applied by hand will cause contaminants to be
e7pressed in flat screening.
)dditional pressure on the skuff is best done by tilting the plastic pusher card
into the skuff as it is moved across the screen. Hut there is a limit to how much
pressure can be applied before vegetable material starts to break off and be
passed through the screen. 0ome vegetable material is acceptable in the lowest
grades of hash, but too much pressure will produce a light green product that
does not provide the e7pansive rush e7pected from hash.
It is difficult, if possible, to e7tract all the glands from the skuff by flat
screening. Ive found that the e7hausted flat*screen skuff is still @uite potent,
and is welcome by smokers who remember the good old days when you could
sit and smoke .e7ican grass for hours on end, a social event lost in modern
times due to the uniform high potency of home*grown pot.
)lthough flat skuffing is not as productive or as easy to control as a drum
machine, it brings gland hash within the range of anyone with a few dollars and
some bud trim.
604
Dru8 Mac"in/s
) drum machine tumbles the skuff inside of a wheel with fabric attached to the
rim, like a s@uirrel cage. The key to the drum machine is the slow speed it
operates at. Time replaces the pressure of flat screening, the longer the run, the
more contaminants. Hut proper drum screening never introduces vegetable
material into the hash, as it never handles the skuff vigorously enough to
crumble the leaves. ) drum machine can gently strip nearly all the drug
containing glands from plant material.
8rum machines can be purchased from at least one supplier in Holland who
calls their product the Q!ollinatorQ. The !ollinator may be a nice machine, but
the price is very high considering how simple the machine is. ) home*built
machine can easily be made for a few dollars by anyone with a reasonable
degree of home handyman skills, which is ust about a given for cannabis
growers.
605
T"/ Bubb)/Ba! M/t"od (t/-AB,A(t/-
The easiest plant essence e7traction method is accomplished through the use of
a hash bag, aka swag bag. $hat your leftover leaves=known as MshakeN> and
such are composed of is a water base, and on it is resin. 'esin is an oil base.
$ater and oil do not mi7, this is how screening works.
(ou#re first going to need to purchase a hash bag kit=these dudes make really
good ones>, two 5 gallon buckets, and an electronic egg beater. 0wag
bagsFhash bags are bags with a mesh at the bottom, usually cylindrical in
shape. They will get progressively smaller as you continue the process.
606
:irst take your work bag, and place it inside a 5*gallon bucket. De7t take some
ice=about 1 scoops> and pour it in the work bag in order to keep everything
cold. Then add a little bit of water. The idea is to make sure everything gets
very wet.
'A2NING7 'at/r 8ust b/ 5U2E $at/r t"at co8/s 6ro8 r/0/rs/
os8osis on),1 T"is $at/r $i)) "a0/ 0/r, 6/$ disso)0/d so)ids suc" as
sa)ts t"at $i)) conta8inat/ ,our "as" and d/!rad/ its Dua)it,.
Dow pour the leaf in slowly and mi7 it with the ice and water thoroughly.
(our ne7t step is to separate the leaf from the resin. (ou can do this by using an
electronic eggbeater. Hold the bag up and have at it" .i7 for about 6? minutes.
8A DAT skip this step, you must make sure your leaves properly separate from
the resin and the resin settles properly.
Not/7 You 8a, n//d to add a )ot 8or/ $at/r in ord/r to !/t /0/r,t"in! to 8i4
-ro-/r),.
De7t you will place in your second five gallon bucket the rest of your bags, in
linear order, starting with the smallest swag bag=should be 14 micron>.
0hake your big bag filled with your hash mi7ture gently. %iggle it. De7t you#re
going to lift it up and strain it. ;et all the water drain down into the bucket and
s@ueeBe the bag. .ake sure you s@ueeBe out all the li@uid into the bucket.
Dow you pour the li@uid from bucket V6 that you ust strained into bucket V1
=the one filled with the bags in order from smallest to biggest all packed in there
at the same time>
%iggle the first bag up and down to let the water fall through. $hat you should
start to find is resin appearing at the bottom of your bag" -rab it and s@ueeBe
the water out of it =you can wear gloves if you like> and place the dried resin on
your working surface. $e recommend you use a spoon to scoop out the resin.
+ontinue this process for all the bags. (ou may want to put each bag#s hash in a
separate pile, as each will have a different consistency per micron siBed bag.
607
(our ideal consistency is one that presses together very well, is a bit grainy and
oily. The resin glands shouldn#t be entirely broken either, which further adds to
the hashishs# potency.
$hen all your hashish has been salvaged, let it dry overnight for at least 61
hours. Dow some people will ust smoke it as it is, but it works best to put it in
the oven at 615Y:=56.9Y+>.
T"/ B)/nd/r M/t"od
!ut water in a blender. )dd a large handful of leaves, stems, seeds and mild
weed. !ut in 4 or / ice cubes and blend it for about 4*/ minutes. %ust make sure
everything is very finely chopped. 0econdly, you will need a gold reusable coffee
filter=or <?*line silk screen>. -et a large mouth @uart mason ar, and strain your
0lurpee mi7ture through it. Ance you have strained all the li@uid through, run
some more water through the leaf material to wash out any e7tra trichome.
608
)fter a few minutes you will notice a white collection at the bottom of the ar,
this is the trichome. ;et the trichome settle at the bottom for about 1?*4?
minutes. De7t, pour off the top 1F4#s of the filtered green water, leaving the
settled trichome at the bottom. )dd more ice water to get the green stuff out,
and let the trichome settle at the bottom for about 1? minutes again. 'epeat
this step once more. !our off as much water as you can without pouring off the
trichome, filter the resulting trichomeFwater mi7 through a paper coffee filter.
The trichome will not go through the paper, but the water will. $hen all the
water has filtered through, a slightly wet, cold, mass of trichome will be left.
This will be easy to handle and compress.
T"/ A)co"o) M/t"od
Take your stash=stems, seeds, mild weed> and place it in a covered pot, with
enough alcohol to cover everything. Isopropyl alcohol is commonly available at
pharmacies. ;ook for alcohol that is <<P pure. 8enatured alcohol also works
well. 0ometimes isopropyl alcohol is called rubbing alcohol. Dow carefully boil
the mi7ture on an electric stove.
'A2NING7 B/ car/6u)T t"/ a)co"o) is 0/r, 6)a88ab)/1
)fter /5 minutes of heating you can strain the solids out, saving the alcohol.
Dow, repeat the process with the same residuals, but with fresh alcohol. $hen
609
the second boil has finished, remove the solids again, combine the two
@uantities of alcohol and boil again until you have a syrupy mi7ture. This syrupy
mi7ture will contain much of the TH+ formerly hidden in the stash.
Ma9in! Cannabutt/r
Hring a pot of water to a rolling boil, then put a small amount of butter in the
water. The butter melts, and mi7es with the water. Then put the grass or stash
in and boil it. Dow all the grass will be riling around with the water and the
butter. The TH+ dissolves into the butter. 0tir the stuff regularly. )fter half an
hour of cooking the grass, strain out the grass and stash and s@ueeBe all the
uice out of it. Then put the li@uid in the fridge.
) few hours later, the mi7ture is cold enough and the cannabutter has solidified
on the surface. It will look kind of scummy, but it#s ust enchanted butter. 0coop
it out and retain it in a bowl or a ar. The cannabutter can be used ust like
butter, in brownies, cake, etc. &noy" =+heck out the +annabis +ookbook for more.>
611
Ad0anc/d Gro$in!
Dow comes the e7citing part. It is one thing to grow mariuana, it is another
thing to grow ) ;AT of @uality mariuana. .astering the basics of mariuana
growing will then allow you to begin considering some advanced mariuana
growing techni@ues to increase yield, potency, genetics, and many other
@ualities of your cannabis bud cultivation. :ollowing the tips in this guide and
the ones in this section you will most certainly be able to.
.any growers, after mastering the basics of cannabis cultivation, wish to delve
into whole new realms of even more enhanced mariuana growing...
612
G/n/tics
In depth genetics is beyond the scope of this work. (ou could literally fill an
entire 6?? page volume on the technical scientific topic of cannabis breeding
alone. I wanted to include as much information as I could to get you guys
started without making this into an overly scientific MencyclopediaN if you will.
I#ve included everything you#ll need to know to get started breeding your own
cannabis right away" :eel free=and I recommend that you do> to go research
this topic on your own to develop your own comprehensive understandingJ the
results are very rewarding"
Br//d/rKs G)ossar,
Hefore you get started breeding you need to become familiar with a few
technical terms. (ou don#t have to read them all, but if you become confused
below refer back to your very own Hreeder -lossary. Hreeding is an advanced
cannabis cultivation process, know that going in.
Ada-tation7 The process by which individuals =or parts of individuals>,
populations, or species change form or function in such a way to better survive
under given environmental conditions. )lso the result of this process.
A))/)/ or A))/)o8or-"7 Ane of a pair or series of forms of a gene which are
alternative in inheritance because they are situated at the same locus in
homologous chromosomes.
As,na-sis7 :ailure of pairing of homologous chromosomes during meiosis.
Auto!a8,7 0elf*fertiliBation.
A0iru)/nt7 Inability of a pathogen to produce a disease on its host.
Bac9cross7 a cross of a hybrid to either of its parents. In genetics, a cross of a
heteroBygote to a homoBygous recessive. =0ee test cross>
Bac9cross Br//din!7 ) system of breeding whereby recurrent backcrosses are
made to one of the parents of a hybrid, accompanied by selection for a specific
character or characters.
Ba)anc/7 The condition in which genetic components are adusted in
proportions that give satisfactory development. Halance applies to individuals
and populations.
613
Basic Nu8b/r7 The number of chromosomes in ancestral diploid ancestors of
polyploids, represented by 7.
Biot,-/7 ) group of individuals with the same genotype. Hiotypes may be
homoBygous or heteroBygous.
Bi0a)/nt7 ) pair of homologous chromosomes united in the first meiotic
division.
Br//d/r (//d7 0eed produced by the agency sponsoring a variety and used to
produce foundation seed.
Br//din!7 The art and science of changing plants or animals genetically.
Bu)9 Br//din!7 The growing of genetically diverse populations of self*
pollinated crops in a bulk plot with or without mass selection, followed by
single*plant selection.
C/rti6i/d (//d7 0eed used for commercial crop production produced from
foundation, registered, or certified seed under regulation of a legally constituted
agency.
C/ntro8/r/7 =0ee kinetochore>
C"aract/r7 )n attribute of an organism resulting from the interaction of a gene
or genes with the environment.
C"ias8a7 )n e7change of partners between paired chromatids in the first
division of meiosis.
C"ro8atid7 Ane of two threadlike structures formed by the longitudinal
division of a chromosome during meiotic prophase and known as a daughter
chromosome during anaphase.
C"ro8oso8/s7 0tructural units of the nucleus which carry the genes in linear
order. +hromosomes undergo a typical cycle in which their morphology changes
drastically in various phases of the life cycle of the organisms.
C)on/7 ) group of organisms descended by mitosis from a common ancestor.
Co8binin! Abi)it,7 -eneral, average performance of a strain in a series of
crosses. 0pecific deviation from performance predicted on the basis of the
general combining ability.
Cou-)in!7 ;inked recessive alleles occur in one homologous chromosome and
their dominant alternatives occur in the other chromosome. Apposed to
repulsion in which one dominant and one recessive occur in each member of the
pair of homologous chromosomes.
Crossin! O0/r7 The e7change of corresponding segments between chromatids
of homologous chromosomes during meiotic prophase. Its genetic conse@uence
614
is the recombination of linked genes.
Dia))/) CrossC Co8-)/t/7 The crossing in all possible combinations of a series
of genotypes.
Di",brid7 HeteroBygous with respect to two genes.
Dio/cious7 !lants in which staminate and pistillate flowers occur on different
individuals.
Di-)oid7 )n organism with two chromosomes of each kind.
Di-)ot/n/7 The stage of meiosis which follows pachytene and during which the
four chromatids of each bivalent move apart in two pairs but remain attached in
the region of the chiasmata.
Dis/as/7 ) departure from normal metabolism and a reduction of its normal
potential for growth and reproduction.
Disjunction7 The separation of chromosomes at anaphase.
Do8inanc/7 Intra*allelic interaction such that one allele manifests itself more
or less, when heteroBygous, than its alternative allele.
Donor 5ar/nt7 The parent from which one or a few genes are transferred to
the recurrent parent in backcross breeding.
Doub)/ Cross7 ) cross between two :6 hybrids.
E8ascu)ation7 'emoval of the anthers from a flower.
E-istasis7 8ominance of one gene over a non*allelic gene. The gene
suppressed is said to be hypostatic. .ore generally, the term epistasis is used to
describe all types of interallelic interaction whereby manifestation at any locus is
affected by genetic phase at any or all loci.
E-i-",totic7 )n unarrested spread of a plant disease.
E4-r/ssi0it,7 The degree of manifestation of a genetic character.
B17 The first generation of a cross.
B%7 The second filial generation obtained by self*fertiliBation or crossing :6
individuals.
B37 !rogeny obtained by self*fertiliBation of :1 individuals.
Bactor7 0ame as gene.
Bacu)tati0/7 !arasites which can grow and live in environments other than
living host tissue.
Ba8i),7 ) group of individuals directly related by descent from a common
ancestor.
B/rti)it,7 )bility to produce viable offspring.
B/rti)i=ation7 :usion of the nuclei of male and female gametes.
615
Boundation (//d7 0eed stock produced from breeder seed under the direct
control of an agricultural e7periment station. :oundation seed is the source of
certified seed, either directly or through registered seed.
Ga8/t/7 +ell of meiotic origin specialiBed for fertiliBation.
G/n/7 The unit of inheritance. -enes are located at fi7ed loci in chromosomes
and can e7ist in a series of alternative forms called alleles.
G/n/ Br/Du/nc,7 The proportion in which alternative alleles of a gene occur in
a population.
G/n/ Int/raction7 .odification of gene action by a non*allelic gene or genes.
G/r8-)as87 The sum total of the hereditary materials in a species.
G/no8/7 ) set of chromosomes corresponding to the haploid set of a species.
G/not,-/7 The entire genetic constitution of an organism.
+a-)oid7 ) cell or organism with the gametic chromosome number =n>.
+/ritabi)it,7 The proportion of observed variability which is due to heredity,
the remainder
being due to environmental causes. .ore strictly, the proportion of observed
variability due to the additive effects of genes.
+/t/rosis7 Hybrid vigor such that an :6 hybrid falls outside the range of the
parents with respect to some character or characters. Gsually applied to siBe,
rate of growth, or general thriftiness.
+/t/ro=,!ous7 Having unlike alleles at one or more corresponding loci
=opposite of homoBygous>.
+o8o)o!, o6 C"ro8oso8/s7 )pplied to whole chromosomes or parts of
chromosomes which synapse or pair in meiotic prophase.
+ost 2/sistanc/7 The result of genetic manipulation of the host which renders
it less susceptible to pathogens that would or do attack the host.
+,brid7 The product of a cross between genetically unlike parents.
I1C I%C I3... 0ymbols that are used to designate first, second, third, etc. inbred
generations.
Inbr/d in/7 ) line produced by continued inbreeding. In plant breeding, a
nearly homoBygous line usually originating by continued self*fertiliBation,
accompanied by selection.
Inbr//din!7 The mating of individuals more closely related than individuals
mating at random.
Ind/-/nd/nc/7 The relationship between variables when the variation of each
is uninfluenced by that of others, that is, correlation of Bero.
616
Iso!/nic in/s7 Two or more lines differing from each other genetically at one
locus only. 8istinguished from clones, homoBygous lines, identical twins, etc.
which are identical at all loci.
Iso)ation7 The separation of one group from another so that the mating
between or among groups is prevented.
Jin/toc"or/7 0pindle attachment. ) localiBed region in each chromosome to
which the Mspindle fiberN appears to be attached and which seems to determine
movement of the chromosomes during mitosis and meiosis.
in/ Br//din!7 ) system of breeding in which a number of genotypes, which
have been progeny tested in retrospect to some character or group of
characters, are composited to form a variety.
in9a!/7 )ssociation of characters in inheritance due to location of genes in
pro7imity on the same chromosome.
in9a!/ Ma-7 .ap of position of genes in chromosomes determined by
recombination relationships.
in9a!/ <a)u/7 'ecombination fraction e7pressing the proportion of crossovers
versus parental types in a progeny. The recombination fraction can vary from
Bero to one half.
ocus7 The position occupied by a gene in a chromosome.
M1C M%C M3... 0ymbols used to designate first, second, third, etc. generations
after treatment with a mutagenic agent.
Ma)/ (t/ri)it,7 )bsence or non*function of pollen in plants.
MassA5/di!r// M/t"od7 ) system of breeding in which a population is
propagated in mass until conditions favorable for selection to occur, after which
pedigree selection is practiced.
Mass (/)/ction7 ) form of a selection in which individual plants are selected
and the ne7t generation is propagated from the aggregate of their seeds.
Matin! (,st/87 )ny number of schemes by which individuals are assorted in
pairs leading to se7ual reproduction. 'andomJ assortment of pairs is by chance.
-enetic assortative matingJ mating together of individuals more closely related
than individuals mating at random. -enetic disassortative matingJ mating
together of individuals less closely related than individuals mating at random.
!henotypic assortative matingJ mating individuals more alike in appearance than
the average. !henotypic disassortative matingJ mating of individuals less alike in
appearance than individuals mating at random.
M/iosis7 ) double mitosis occurring in se7ual reproduction which results in
617
production of gametes with haploid =n> chromosome number.
M/ta-"as/7 The stage of meiosis or mitosis at which the chromosomes lie on
the spindle.
Mitosis7 The process by which the nucleus is divided into two daughter nuclei
with e@uivalent chromosome complements, usually accompanied by division of
the cell containing the nucleus.
Modi6,in! G/n/s7 -enes that affect the e7pression of a non*allelic gene or
genes.
Mono/cious7 0taminate and pistillate flowers born separately on the same
plant.
Mutation7 ) sudden heritable variation in a gene or in a chromosome structure.
Ob)i!at/7 !arasite that cannot multiply in nature without a host.
O)io!/nic 2/sistanc/7 'esistance determined by one or few genes whose
effects are readily detectable.
Outcross7 ) cross, usually natural, to a plant of different genotype.
5ac",t/n/7 The double*thread or four strand stage of meiosis.
5arasit/7 ;ives in or on another organism and obtains nutrients from it.
5art"/no!/n/sis7 8evelopment of an organism from a se7 cell in respect to
some characteristic.
5ara8/t/r7 ) numerical @uantity which specifies a population in respect to
some characteristic.
5at"o!/n7 ) parasite which produces disease in its host.
5/di!r//7 ) record of the ancestry of an individual, family, or strain.
5/di!r// Br//din!7 ) system of breeding in which individual plants are
selected in the segregating generations from a cross on the basis of their
desirability udged individually and on the basis of a pedigree record.
5/n/tranc/7 The fre@uency with which a gene produces a recogniBable effect
in the individuals which carry it.
5"/not,-/7 )ppearance of an individual as contrasted with its genetic make*
up or genotype. )lso, used to designate a group of individuals with similar
appearance but not necessarily identical genotypes.
5",to)/4ins7 0ubstances produced or formed by host plants in response to
inury, physiological stimuli, infectious agents, or their products that accumulate
to levels which inhibit the growth of microorganisms. 0ome include to7ic
substances produced to repel insects and nematodes.
5o),cross7 Apen pollination of a group of genotypes =generally selected>, in
618
isolation from other compatible genotypes, in such a way as to promote random
mating.
5o),!/nic7 8etermined by several genes whose effects are readily detectable.
5o-u)ations7 In genetics, a community of individuals which share a common
gene pool. In statistics, a hypothetical and infinitely large series of potential
observations among which observations may actually constitute a sample.
5ro!/n, T/st7 ) test of the value of a genotype based on the performance of
its offspring
produced in some definite system of mating.
5rotandr,7 .aturation of anthers before pistils.
5roto!,n,7 .aturation of pistils before anthers.
5ur/ in/7 ) strain homoBygous at all loci, ordinarily obtained by successive
self*fertiliBations in plant breeding.
Qua)itati0/ C"aract/r7 ) character in which variation is discontinuous.
Quantitati0/ C"aract/r7 ) character in which variation is continuous so that
classification into discrete categories is not possible.
2ando87 )rrived at by chance without discrimination.
2ando8i=ation7 !rocess of making assignments at random.
2/c/ssi0/7 The member of an allelic pair which is not e7pressed when the
other =dominant> member occupies the homologous chromosome.
2/ci-roca) Cross/s7 +rosses in which the sources of the male and female
gametes are reversed.
2/co8bination7 :ormation of new combinations of genes as a result of
segregation in crosses between genetically different parents. )lso, the
rearrangement of linked genes due to crossing over.
2/curr/nt 5ar/nt7 The parent to which successive backcrosses are made in
backcross breeding.
2/curr/nt (/)/ction7 ) method of breeding designed to concentrate favorable
genes scattered among a number of individuals by selecting, each generation,
among the progeny produced by matings of the selected individuals =or their
selfed progeny> of the previous generation.
2/!ist/r/d (//d7 The progeny of foundation seed normally grown to produce
certified seed.
2o!u/7 ) variation from the standard type of a variety or strain. 'oguingJ
removal of undesirable individuals to purify a stock.
2/sistanc/7 The restriction of development of a pathenogenic agent or
619
parasite. +an vary in degree from immunity =no development> to only slight
retardation relative to a so called susceptible reaction.
(1C (%C (3... 0ymbols for designating first, second, third, etc. selfed
generations from an ancestral plant =0?>.
(/!r/!ation7 0eparation of paternal from maternal chromosomes at meiosis
and conse@uent separation of genes leading to the possibility of recombination
in the offspring.
(/)/ction7 In genetics, discrimination among individuals in the number of
offspring contributed to the ne7t generation. In statistics, discrimination in
sampling leading to bias. Apposed to randomness.
(/)6AB/rti)i=ation7 :usion of male and female gametes from the same
individual.
(/)6AInco8-atibi)it,7 -enetically controlled physiological hindrance to self*
fruitfulness.
(in!)/ Cross7 ) cross between two genotypes, usually two inbred lines, in
plant breeding.
(-/ci/s7 The unit of ta7onomic classification into which genera are subdivided.
) group of similar individuals different from other similar arrays of individuals. In
se7ually reproducing organisms, the ma7imum interbred group isolated from
other species by barriers of sterility or reproductive incapacity.
(train7 ) group of similar individuals within a variety.
(,na-sis7 +onugation at pachytene and Bygotene of homologous
chromosomes.
(,nt"/tic <ari/t,7 ) variety produced by crossing a number of genotypes
selected for good combining ability in all possible hybrid combinations, with
subse@uent maintenance of the variety by open pollination.
T/)o-"as/7 The last stage in cell division before the nucleus returns to a
resting condition.
T/tra-)oid7 )n organism with four basic =7> sets of chromosomes.
To- Cross7 ) cross between a selection, line, clone, etc., and a common pollen
parent which may be a variety, inbred line, single cross, etc. The common pollen
parent is called the top cross or tester parent. In corn, a top cross is commonly
an inbred*variety cross.
Trans!r/ssi0/ (/!r/!ation7 )ppearance in segregating generations of
individuals falling outside the parental range in respect to some character.
Trans)ocation7 +hange in position of a segment of a chromosome to another
620
location in the same or different chromosomes.
<ariation7 The occurrence of differences among individuals due to differences
in their genetic composition andFor the environment in which they were raised.
<ari/t,7 ) subdivision of a species. ) group of individuals within a species
which are distinct in form or function from other similar arrays of individuals.
<iru)/nc/7 +apacity of a pathogen to incite a disease.
47 Hasic number of chromosomes in a polyploid series.
O1C O%C O3... 0ymbols denoting first, second, third, etc. generations from and
irradiated ancestral plants =\?>.
I,!ot/7 +ell formed by the union of two gametes and the individual developing
from this cell.
I,!ot/n/7 ) stage in meiotic prophase when the threadlike chromosomes pair.
Br//din!
Hreeding is a method whereby you can make seeds from your crop. If you are
like most growers out there, you have purchased or obtained a great strain that
has become your new favorite L you would like to produce more seeds from
your crop in order to continue the strain. In the following method we will show
you how to continue a strain. !lease note that you will not be able to replicate
the plants again unless they are IH;. $hat breeding can and will do for you is
generate seeds that will contain most of the parent plant#s genetic
blueprint=features>, but maybe not all. 0ome of your offspring will turn out to be
like the parents but others will show different traits. These different traits can
include color, potency, and taste.
The cool thing about cannabis is that it can be reproduced ase7ually or se7ually.
)se7ual propagation is what is known as Mtaking cuttingsN or McloningN. The
process is when growth shoots or branches are removed from chosen donor
plants and induced to form roots in a separate grow medium. These rooted
cuttings are then used to plant a uniform crop of genetically identical
individuals. This method of propagating growth ase7ually to ensure uniformity in
growth, yield, and consistency is @uite popular today=as you recall reading from
the +loning section>.
621
0e7ual propagation on the other hand is when the male and female se7 cells
=biologically labeled MgametesN> unite in the female plant to form a new
offspring. This process occurs when the male pollen unites with an ovule within
the ovary of a female flower to create an embryo which eventually matures and
develops into a seed.
Ance :lowering ends, the bud will contain seeds. +heck them. Ideally they need
to be dark in color. If they are white shiny then they aren#t good because you
have harvested them too early. .ake sure you wait until the very end of
:lowering to harvest your seeds"
&ach seed has its own uni@ue genetic blueprint that contains genes from both of
its parents. 0ince offspring produce slightly varied traits, the goal of advanced
breeding methods is to weed out the plants that do not contain favorable traits,
and continue breeding the one#s that demonstrate superior genetic traits in
order to develop new and improved strain varieties.
Here#s what the general process looks likeO +ommercial breeders will often grow
a very large number of plants which only a few outstanding specimens are
chosen. Their offspring are then selected and oftentimes crossed with other
varieties of cannabis that have desirable traits. )n e7ample of this is a plant that
matures super early that is not very potent may be crossed with a plant that
takes a very long time to mature but produces e7tremely potent flowers. The
first generation will be fairly uniform. The second generation will tends to sort
out into early and late plants of varying potency. The desirable characteristic*
bearing plants =in this case early potent plants only> are then selected for even
further breeding, this will stabiliBe the variety of cannabis after several
generations. The goal of commercial seed growers is to stabiliBe many
characteristics at once so that the plants will be uniform.
0ince indoor growing allows for manipulation of many indoor environmental
factors, you can breed some pretty awesome bud.
622
Ane awesome method for producing lighting fast maturing strains is to plant a
garden using e@uatorial cannabis variety=e7tremely early*flowering plants>. Hy
breeding this type of plant with high potent plants, in a few generations you can
develop your strain into an incredibly fast*maturing, potent mariuana plant.
Not/7 2/8/8b/rC ta9in! cuttin!s is t"/ on), $a, o6 -r/s/r0in! t"/ /4act !/n/tic
8a9/u- o6 an, -)ant.
Br//din! T/c"niDu/
It is possible to breed and select cuttings from plants that grow, flower, and
mature faster. 0ome plants will naturally be better than others in this regard,
and it is easy to select not only the most potent plants to clone or breed, but
the fastest growingFflowering plants as well.
:ind your fastest growth plant, and breed it with your Qbest highQ male for fast
flowering, potent strains. +lone your fastest, best high plant for the @uickest
monocrop garden possible. Aver time, it will save you a lot of waiting around for
your plants to mature.
$hen a male is starting to flower =1*/ weeks before the females> it should be
removed from the females so it does not pollinate them. It is taken to a
separate area. )ny place that gets ust a few hours of light per day will be
ade@uate, including close to a window in a separate room in the house. !ut
newspaper or glass under it to catch the pollen as the flowers drop it.
Eeep a male alive indefinitely by bending it#s top severely and putting it in mild
shock that delays it#s maturity. Ar take the tops as they mature and put the
branches in water, over a piece of plate glass. 0hake the branches every
morning to release pollen onto the glass and then scrap it with a raBor blade to
collect it. ) male pruned in this fashion stays alive indefinitely and will continue
to produce flowers if it gets suitable dark periods. This is much better than
putting pollen in the freeBer" :resh pollen is always best.
0ave pollen in an air tight bag in the freeBer. It will be good for about a month.
It may be several more weeks before the females are ready to pollinate. !ut a
623
paper towel in the bag with it to act as a desiccant.
) plant is ready to pollinate 1 weeks after the clusters of female flowers first
appear. If you pollinate too early, it may not work. $ait until the female flowers
are well established, but still all while hairs are showing.
Turn off all fans. Gse a paper bag to pollinate a branch of a female plant. Gse
different pollen from two males on separate branches. $rap the bag around the
branch and seal it at the opening to the branch. 0hake the branch vigorously.
$et the paper bag after a few minutes with a sprayer and then carefully remove
it. ;arge plastic Bip*lock bags also. 0lip the bag over the male branch and shake
the pollen loose. +arefully remove the bad and Bip it up.
It should be very dusty with pollen. To pollinate, place it over a single branch of
the female, Bipping it up sideways around the stem so no pollen leaks out.
0hake the bag and the stem at the same time.
)llow to settle for an hour or two and shake it again. 'emove it a few hours
later. (our branch is now well pollinated and should show signs of visible seed
production in 1 weeks, with ripe seeds splitting the caly7es by 4*9 weeks. Ane
pollinated branch can create hundreds of seeds, so it should not be necessary to
pollinate more than one or two branches in many cases.
$hen crossing two different varieties, a third variety of plant will be created. If
you know what characteristics your looking for in a new strain, you will need
several plants to choose from in order to have the best chance of finding all the
@ualities desired. 0ometimes, if the two plants bred had dominant genes for
certain characteristics, it will be impossible to get the plant you want from one
single cross. In this case, it is necessary to interbreed two plants from the same
batch of resultant seeds from the initial cross. In this fashion, recessive genes
will become available, and the plant character you desire may only be possible
in this manner.
Gsually, it is desirable only to cross two strains that are very different. In this
manner, one usually arrives at what is referred to as Qhybrid vigourQ. In other
words, often the best strains are created by taking two very different strains and
624
mating them. ;ess robust plants may be the result of interbreeding, since it
opens up recessive gene traits that may lead to reduced potency.
Hybrid offspring will all be very different from each other. &ach plant grown from
the same batch of seeds collected from the same plant, will be different. It is
then necessary to try each plant separately and decide it#s individual merits for
yourself. If you find one that seems to be head and shoulders above the rest in
terms of early flowering, high yield and get buBB, that#s the plant to clone and
continue breeding.
Br//din! to Ma9/ (//ds
0insemillaO $hen the female plant is not allowed to pollinate, it grows full of
resin that was intended to make seeds. :alse seed pods swell with TH+ laden
resin and the pistils turn red and orange and withdraw into the pods. Then the
plant is harvested. 0eeds are not part of the bud when the flowers mature. This
is called 0insemillia, and simply means Qno seedsQ.
(ins/8i))a (//ds7 It is possible to cross your favourite two female plants to
create a new strain of seeds that will produce all female plants. !referably, these
two plants will be different types of plants, not from the same mother#s seeds.
This will create the best offspring, since it will not lead to inbreeding. It is easier
to gauge the @uality of female plants than male plants, since the smoke is more
potent and easier to udge it#s finer @ualities. !lants from seeds created in this
fashion will be all female plants since there will be no chance of male
chromosomes from female parents.
Gse -ibberellic )cid on one branch of a female plant to induce male flowers.
-ibberellic )cid is sold by nursery supply houses for plant breeding and
hybridiBing. 0pray the plant once every day for 6? days with 6?? ppm gibberellic
625
acid. $hen the male flowers form, pollinate the flowers of your other target
female plant you have selected. %ust pollinate one branch unless you want lots
of seeds"
Ance the branch has male flowers, cut the branch and root it in water, with
glass under it to catch the male pollen when it drops. Gse a rooting solution
similar to the above cloning solution. +ollect the pollen with a plastic bag over
the branch and shake it=more on pollen in a moment>. Gse a raBor blade to
scrap up fallen pollen and add it to the bag too.
It is also possible to pollinate the flowers of the plant you create the male
flowers on, crossing it with itself. This is used to preserve a special plants
characteristics. +loning will also preserve the plants characteristics, but will not
allow you to store seeds for use later. +rossing a plant with itself can lead to
inbreeding problems, so it may not be the optimum solution in many
cases.
0ome growers have tried using -ibberellic )cid, sprayed on a healthy female,
every day for over a week reporting no male flowers appearing on the plant.
(our mileage may vary.
Ma9in! (//ds (t/-AB,A(t/-
0o say you purchased an e7pensive strain and you would like to make more
seeds without any interference from another strain. $ell you#re in luck because
this is actually @uite simple""
The first factor that must be followed to ensure success is to make sure the
male and female plants are together from only the same strain batch. 8A DAT
introduce another strain into the mi7. 0ay for e7ample you have -od#s -ift=or
any other> strain, make sure all the male and female plants in your grow room
are the -od#s -ift strain. Hy allowing the males to pollinate the females you will
get -od#s -ift seeds. Gnless your strain is an IH;, the offspring will lose some of
the genetic features that the parent plants had.
626
(t/- On/ A (/)/ctin! Br//din! 5ar/nts7 In selecting female plants, you will
want to select one based on yield, smell, potency, flavor, resistance to pests,
color, etc. In other words, choose the best female plant with the most favorable
genetics. =It is even optional, but recommended to smoke a sample harvest
from your chosen plant strain, so make sure it is optimal. 8rying and curing can
change the aromas and flavours, so it is good to include a post*harvest
evaluation.>
+hoosing male parent plants with desirable characteristics is a little tougher.
0ince males do not produce flowers it is hard to udge by resin content, smells,
floral siBe etc. .any breeders have a crude, but time*tested method of
determining superior male plants, and that is by rubbing the stem with your
finger. If it e7udes a pungent odor, it is most likely a good plant. ) superior
method, that is more time consuming, is by taking the pollen from your chosen
male plant and using it to make seeds with the chosen females. Then you grow
out your resulting seeds and e7amine them to determine the male#s effect. This
is by far the most reliable method for determining the genetic value of the
chosen male candidate.
Not/7 T"/ 8a)/ -)ant MU(T 2/8ain on a 1%:1% sc"/du)/. Man, !ro$/rs r/-ort
t"at i6 t"/ 8a)/ do/s not "a0/ a8-)/ )i!"tin! it $i)) in 8ost cas/s c/as/ to 6inis"
t"/ 6)o$/rin! c,c)/ 6o))o$/d b, co8-)/t/ s"utdo$n o6 -o))/n -roduction $it"in
s/0/ra) da,s.
627
(t/- T$o A Co))/ctin! 5o))/n7 Ance the flowers are ready to open you can
then e7tract the pollen from the male flower. (ou will witness the male flower
open out from its pod. The best place and time to gather pollen is after it bursts
and falls onto the leaves. 0tart off by cutting off a branch. !lace a plastic bag
over the branch and secure the bottom with a piece of string or a tight
rubberband. This prevents pollen from leaking. (ou have to be careful as
airborne pollen can travel miles. Eeep the branch inside the bag for several days
to collect pollen. Ance enough pollen seems to have been collected inside your
bad, shake the remaining pollen off inside the bag.
(t/- T"r// 3 (torin! 5o))/n7 ) great way to store pollen is to purchase small
ar or an oldschool film canister.=(ou can also put some water in a film canister
and drop an alkaseltBer tablet in, then pop the lid closed... watch what happens"
%ust kidding J>. > (ou can save your pollen in these canisters for the ne7t
harvest.
It is very rare to have e7cess pollen to store, but if you happen to have e7tra
pollen available you can store it in a freeBer in an airtight container for about 63
months=below freeBing temperatures>. I highly recommend you use it within 9
months to ensure ma7imum @uality. !ollen does not have a long natural shelf
lifeJ it is easily destroyed by high temperatures and moisture.
(t/- Bour 3 5o))inationC M/t"od 17 In order to pollinate the eager females
simply cover the female branch with the bag of pollen=sealing the bag with a
rubber band, string, or wire tie around the base of the bag and stem> and shake
the pollen onto the female flowers. )nd wha*la" .ake sure you do a through
shaking that will allow the pollen to come into contact with as many pistils as
possible. +ongratulations, you now have some very happy pollinated female
plants O>. 0ome veteran growers leave the bag on for up to as much as 4 days
to ensure ma7imum pollination.
Not/7 B/ 0/r, car/6u) $"/n s"a9in! and r/8o0in! t"/ ba!C as an, airborn/ -o))/n
can /asi), -o))inat/ an, n/arb, -)ants. Man, /4-/ri/nc/d !ro$/rs -o))inat/ t"/ir
-)ants in a co8-)/t/), s/-arat/ iso)at/d ar/a b/caus/ o6 t"is 0/r, r/ason. T"/,
t"/n $i)) s-ra, t"/ -)ants $it" $at/r to d/stro, a)) t"/ unus/d -o))/n and t"/n
8o0/ t"/ -)ant bac9 into t"/ !ro$ roo8.
628
M/t"od %7 )n additional method of pollination is to use a small paint brush to
carefully paint the pollen onto the pistils. 0tart by dipping your brush into the
pollen container. De7t gently brush the pollen onto the pistils. This techni@ue is
very beneficial to the breeder who only needs to make a few seeds. )fter
fertiliBation, most seeds will become completely ripe and ready in appro7imately
9 weeks, some even earlier. How can you tell when your seeds are ripeC It#s
simple. 0eeds become ripe when they turn mostly a dark brown or grey, tiger
striped, and they sit loosely in the caly7. $hite, yellow, and green seeds are <
times out of 6? immature and not viable.
Dow that you have a general overview of each step, let#s dive into more details
of each processO
Co))/ctin! 5o))/n (t/-AB,A(t/-
(t/- 1? :irst, take a mature flowering male plant, like the one pictured. It is
advisable to wait until the maority of the flowers are open and practically
bursting with pollen. This is obvious from yellow powdery residue on the leaves.
Bi!ur/ 1. Matur/ B)o$/rin! Ma)/. >Notic/ t"/ 8atur/d sac9s.?
629
(t/- %? De7t, get a pair of scissors, piece of wa7 paper folded in half, with one
end folded over to form a corner. $a7 paper works e7tremely well here since it
resists moisture which will @uickly spoil your pollen.
Bi!ur/ %. Bo)d/d 'a4 5a-/r A Cr/dit7 i)buddi/
630
(t/- 3? Then take the scissors and cut a nice big branch off * ust snip one so it
is easy to handle.
Bi!ur/ 3. Cut Branc" A Cr/dit7 i)buddi/
631
(t/- 4? +arefully lay the branch in the opened wa7 paper, close the sides with
the holding hand so a breeBe doesn#t blow too much away. ThenJ twist, iggle,
shake, and rub the branch against the wa7 paper.
Bi!ur/ 4. Branc" 5)ac/d in 'a4 5a-/r A Cr/dit7 i)buddi/
632
(t/- .? )fter a few branches to see how much you have collected, remove
some of the flowers that have fallen off and check out what you have so far.
Bi!ur/ .. 5o))/n A Cr/dit7 i)buddi/
(t/- 6? Ance you have run out of branches=or you feel you have enough
pollen> shake the pollen down into the cover you made and remove any
additional flowers that still remain. Ance all the male flowers are removed you
can unfold the wa7 paper to be sure to get them all. (ou can then transfer the
pollen to a new piece of wa7 paper if you desire.
Bi!ur/ 6. Co))/ct/d 5o))/n A Cr/dit7 i)buddi/
633
(t/- R? The final step is to wrap it up, tape it, and congratulations K you now
have enough pollen for a few million seeds. (ou can now carefully unfold it and
use a small paint brush to dip into it and pollinate buds. Ar if you are really laBy
you ust pinch some out and sprinkle it.
Ma9in! A Basic +,brid
In order to make a basic hybrid you must take a male plant from one strain and
a female plant from the other. 8epending on genetics, certain features of one
strain will be more apparent and favored in offspring than the other, and vice*
versa. )lso some variations that were not present in the parents may also
appear=if the parents were both not IH;>.
Hefore you begin it is important to keep in mind cannabis is an e7tremely
variable and polymorphic species. .any traits have many many possible
e7pressions. 0o keep on growing lots of variations which will ensure you a wide
array of phenotypes and combinations of traits for future selection.
The first step is to determine what your goal is, or in other words, what
desirable characteristics does your ideal plant haveC
:or indoor plants, these traits include it#s shortness, bushy growth, height,
densely formed buds, taste=including specific flavors>, aromas, TH+ content,
and @uality of high =long*lasting, soaring, sedative>. )lso the plant#s resistance
to disease, insects, and any other health related issues is important. It is critical
to select plants that have vigor and good strong health. :igure out your end
breeding goals first. Hegin with the end in mind.
0ometimes plants will have ideal traits and negative ones. :or e7ample one may
produce high TH+ content buds, but grow lanky and tall and be very susceptible
to growing mold. (our strategy is then to slowly weed out the negative traits in
each generation of bred plants, until you have an ideal breed you are happy
with, for yourself or for your customers.
634
Crossin!
If you cross an Indica with a 0ativa you get seeds which produce a hybrid. )ll
seeds carry a genetic mi7 of their mother#s and father#s traits. The traits that are
the same for the mother and the father will be passed on to the seeds. Ane way
of crossing I this. ;et#s label the parents as !. +rossing these parents give the :6
generation of seeds.
6. !=mother> 7 !=father> U :6
1. :6=female> 7 :6=male> U :1=if two f6 seeds are crossed they give rise to
the f1 generation sons and daughters>
4. :1=female> 7 :1=male> U :4
/. :4=female> 7 :4=male> U :/
.ost likely the fathers and mothers don#t have the same traits, and after some
generations the traits you prefer will therefor have gotten lost in the gene
mi7ing. $hen you reach :/ the traits that you like will most likely=there is
always the possibility but it is a really really small possibility> be gone. )n inbred
line =IH;> is a strain that is stabiliBed, i.e. the good traits are preserved and the
bad traits are e7cluded. )n IH;=inbred line> is a genetically homogenous strain
that grows uniformly from seed. ) hybrid is a strain made up of two genetically
unlike parents, IH; or hybrid. If you don#t own a laboratory, you can not know
that the mother and father share the same traits, you can only make a good
guess. To create an IH; you need to cross a lot of plants and grow many many
generations of plants, I.e you need both time and space. Hackcrossing involves
breeding a descendant back against one of the original parents=eww">. I#ll call
the first backcross seeds H6O
Two e7amples of HackcrossingO
!=mother> 7 :6=male> U H6
:6=female> 7 !=father> U H6
635
+ubing produces a larger population with a very close genetic heritage. +ubing
involves backcrossing three times using the subse@uent generations back
against the original parent that you want cubed. i.e. first crossO
6. !=mother> 7 !=father> U :6
1. =begin cubing with the first backcross> !=mother> 7 :6=male> U H6
4. =second backcross> !=mother> 7 H6=male> U H1
/. =third backcross> !=mother> 7 H1=male> U H4
+o$ can I c"an!/ 8, 8arijuanaKs tast/ : s8/))@
The different tastes of certain strains of cannabis are a product of controlled*
breeding programs. The flavour and smell of +annabis comes from five
substancesO mono* and ses@ui*terpenes, alpha* and beta*pinene, limonene,
myrcene, and beta*phalandrene. The amount of each substance present in a
given strain will determine the flavor and smell.
Br//din! Goa)s
Hefore you begin any breeding strategy, the most important first step is to
define your goals. )re you growing for yourself or for commercial productionC
Indoors or outC .ostly 0ativa or mostly IndicaC Eeep only the plants that have
the @ualities you want, and mercilessly kill the rest.
0elect plants that don#t fall overJ if you have to prop them up with toothpicks
you might as well cull them. Eeep the ones that are free from abnormalities and
hermaphroditism. Hopefully you#ve got enough many seeds to be ruthless. Eeep
the ones that show better resistance to disease and pests. &ven though the
progeny performance is more important than the individual, there is a positive
relationship between the overall vigour of an IH; and the yield of its hybrids. If
they produce vigourous plants they are more likely to pass these traits on. Then
employ a breeding strategy.
636
C"oosin! Your Br//din! (toc9
Hreeding fine cannabis involves carefully choosing the breeding stock. To choose
wisely you must first understand the key differences between male and female
cannabis.
B/8a)/ Cannabis7 The female cannabis plant, unlike the male, is grown to
produce potent mariuana. !remium mariuana is produced in seedless form by
eliminating all pollen sources from the growing environment. 0eed production
reduces the value of mariuana dramatically by lowering the yield and potency
of the flowers. Hermaphrodites are plants e7pressing both male and female
flowers. They may fool a grower who mistakes the QhermieQ for a female * only
to find his crop is ruined by the une7pected release of pollen. Enowledgeable
mariuana breeders are very careful to avoid hermaphrodism in their seedlines.
637
The attributes of a valuable female are the following=in descending order of
importance>O
6. !otency.
1. 0cent.
4. 'esistance to hermaphrodism.
/. :lavor.
5. 'ate of flowering response.
9. 'esin production.
5. 0tature.
3. :loral color.
<. :loral structure.
6?. 2igourF(ield
Ma)/ Cannabis7 The male cannabis plant is essentially only useful for
breeding. The male plant makes very poor mariuana, being mostly leaves
without the dense resinous floral clusters of the female the yield is miserable.
.ore importantly, the male of the species has virtually no potency in comparison
to that of female cannabis. The males do carry genes that influence the
e7pression of all the traits listed above, but not many of them are directly
observable in the male itself due to the male phenotype being markedly
different from the female phenotype. ) male cannabis plant#s value is
determined by the @uality of his daughters.
$hen starting out with a large number of potential breeding individuals, one
desires to weed out the undesirable individuals.
The female is easy to evaluate because all the traits favoring mariuana
production are directly observable in the female. It#s a simple matter of growing
L flowering the females to grade their performance and smoking the resulting
mariuana. The breeder then chooses only those females most closely matching
the breeder#s personal ideal to be used as seed parents.
638
The directly observable L important traits of male cannabis are as followsO
6. .aturation rate.
1. 0tature.
4. 2igour.
/. 'esistance to hermaphrodism.
)ll males e7pressing poor @uality in any of these traits should be culled so as
not to pass the weak trait on to the progeny. .ales are also observed to have a
certain scent and floral structure but the importance of these traits pale in
comparison to those listed above.
The potency of male plants, and especially the potency difference between
individual males in a group, is generally too subtle to be measured by anything
short of professional scientific laboratory e@uipment. There is no conclusive
proof that the most potent male in a group actually creates the most potent
female progenyJ although it seems intuitive that that should be the case. The
difficulty of determining a male plant#s potency is a maor hurdle to proving this
link.
The potency of a male plant itself isn#t very important, as we aren#t interested in
growing males for mariuana production. The value of a male lies entirely in the
traits he consistently passes on to his daughters. Therefore its unnecessary to
identify the one male amongst a group of potential pollen donors with the
greatest potency. It is far more logical to evaluate the female progeny of each
male to define the potency of each male in the group.
.ale cannabis individuals may be graded for @uality by a controlled pollination
of identical female clones=one for each pollen donor>. This isolates the influence
of the male by holding constant the influence of the female on each cross. The
seeds resulting from each clone are then grown and the progeny is graded to
determine which of the crosses was the most successful. $hen the group with
the most desirable female progeny is identified, the responsible male has been
identified as the most valuable. )s you know, males can be kept in the
vegetative state e7actly like female mother plantsJ at this point they would
beNdadsN. +lones from the favored male can be flowered as needed along with
639
the breeding female=s> when seeds are desired.
In most cases there will only be about 6? males to be evaluated after culling all
those with directly observable defects. Hreeding with larger populations is
always preferable, as genetics tends to be a statistical QgameQ.
Hy following the above method, growers can accurately pinpoint the AD& male
in their small group which is the most potent...in the only meaningful sense of
male potency.
Cubin! a C)on/
This is the techni@ue of mi7ing pollen from all the selected males. This method
guarantees that from the very first group of seedlings, a predefined fraction will
be the offspring of the best male plant=defined as the male responsible for
creating the best daughters>. They will be easy to identify, being the superior
plants.
The disadvantage of this method is that the identity of the responsible male is
lost, rendering that specific cross difficult to repeat. That#s a maor disadvantage
if the intention were commercial production of the hybrid strain. However
because its more time*saving L practical, mi7ing the pollen is the best method
for home breeders wishing only to obtain a great clone mother. Ane need only
germinate a large enough group of seeds to ensure several female offspring of
each select male L the future clone mother will be among them.
+ubing a clone is a way to create a uni@ue seedline=a strain> modeled after a
currently e7isting female individual. The goal is to create seeds from which the
females replicate the phenotype of the original female. Abviously the chosen
female should be an outstanding specimen.
640
T"/ Cubin! 5roc/dur/ (t/-AB,A(t/-
'ememberJ (ou must +ADTIDGAG0;( keep a Honsai .other in the vegetative
state to provide clones.
(t/- 1? !ollinate a flowering clone of the original female with the pollen of a
related male. The resulting seeds contain T the original female#s genes and T
those of the male. )n unrelated male wont have the (*chromosome of the
chosen females family and therefore any (*linked traits of the family will always
be missing in the seedline.
(t/- %? -row the above seeds and flower them. +ollect an e@ual @uantity of
pollen from each selected male and mi7 it together.
(t/- 3? !ollinate a flowering clone of the original female with the above pollen.
These seeds contain T the original females genes plus ] more because the
male used was T her genetics too. (ou can call this generation .55 to capture
the idea that its ^ of the original females genetics.
(t/- 4? -row the above seeds L flower them. +ollect an e@ual @uantity of
pollen from each selected male and mi7 it together.
(t/- .? !ollinate a flowering clone of the original female with the above pollen.
These seeds contain 5F3 the original genes =6F1+4F3>, the Q.33Q generation.
(t/- 6? -row the above seeds L flower them. +ollect an e@ual @uantity of
pollen from each selected male and mi7 it together.
(t/- R? !ollinate a flowering clone of the original female with the above pollen.
These seeds contain 65F69 the original genes =6F1+5F69>, the Q.</Q generation.
Theoretically this will be a stable, true*breeding seedline from which all females
are replicas of the original.
641
Not/7 In cubin! $/ "a0/ no 6urt"/r us/ 6or t"/ 8a)/s o6 -r/0ious !/n/rations
a6t/r ta9in! t"/ir -o))/n. T"/r/6or/ 8i4in! t"/ -o))/n U )osin! t"/ id/ntit, o6 b/st
8a)/ is no -rob)/8 "/r/. T"/ !oa) o6 t"/ cub/d strain is to r/-roduc/ t"/ 6/8a)/
-"/not,-/C ind/-/nd/nt u-on 51 !/n/rations 6or r/-roduction a6t/r a c/rtain
nu8b/r o6 st/-s in t"/ cubin! -roc/ss.
+arefully evaluate the females produced in each generation of the cubing
process to monitor their progress. If the results don#t progressively shift toward
your goals, then you may have to change your male selection parameters.
Con0/r!/nt I8-ro0/8/nt7 If you have a good single cross =) \ H>, and you
know the vigour is the result of the dominance of growth factors, back*cross it
several generations to ), selecting for @ualities of H that are lacking in ). )fter
two or more generations of back*crossing and selecting, IH;s are produced. 8o
the same for H. )fter improved ) and H are obtained, they are tested in crosses
and compared to the original =) \ H>.
.ultiple convergence is improving an inbred by convergence of gametes from
different sources. If ) is a very desirable inbred in crosses, it can be modified in
two separate back*cross programs geg. =) \ +> \ ), and =) \ 8> \ )h, with the
idea that the improved inbreds will be vigourous enough to use as the male
parent of a double*cross.
Cr/atin! a Tru/ Br//din! (train>IB?
There are a few situations where a plant breeder would want to create a true
breeding strain=IH;> and a few ways of accomplishing the task. Hut
understanding the subtle differences of the various techni@ues is not so easy.
This section will attempt to give a basic understanding of what is actually
happening with each techni@ue and then apply what is learned to actual
proects. Hreeding is not a black and white subect and as a whole, it would be
too comple7 to put on paper in an easily understood form. Therefore, I will
create small fictional e7amples to reinforce various concepts and then we will
take those e7amples and concepts and apply some reality to them. Try not to
get hung up on the erroneous assumptions used here such as flavour being
monogenic, the assumption is simply used to make it easier to learn a certain
concept.
642
;ust '"at Is It T"at '/ Ar/ Doin!@
Hefore we dive in to the more heavy material of this segment, maybe we should
take the time to understand what we are trying to accomplish when we set out
to create a true breeding strain. There are hundreds of possible phenotypic
traits that we could observe within a cannabis population. )re we trying to make
all of them the same and remove );; variationC Dot likely, the genetic code is
ust too comple7 to try. !lus, since phenotype=what we see> is T genotype + T
environmentJ everytime the population was grown under new conditions, new
heteroBygous traits would be observed. Hasically, all we are trying to create is
an overall uniformity while not worrying about the minor individual variations.
Do different than a dog breed. (ou can look at a -erman 0hepard and recogniBe
it as belonging to a discrete breed. Hut if you look closer at several -erman
0hepards all at the same time, you will find variations with each and every one
of them. 0ome will be a little taller, some a little wider, some more aggressive,
some a little fatter, some darker, etc. Hut they would all fall within an acceptable
range for the various traits. -enerally speaking, this is what a plant breeder is
trying to accomplish when creating a true breeding strain, or IH;.
However this isn#t always the case. 0ometimes a breeder will ust concentrate
on a specific trait, like say outdoor harvest date, or mite resistance. (ou could
still have a population where some are 1# bushes and some 6?# trees. In this
case, you would say that the strain was true breeding for the particular trait, but
you wouldn#t consider it true breeding strain per se. In
genetics, wording plays a big part in meaning and
understanding.
Ak, so we want to make a cannabis population fairly
uniform over a few phenotypically important traits, like
say flavour for instance. :or simplicity sake, we#ll ust
deal with the single trait flavour, it#s comple7 enough.
)nd although flavour is controlled by several gene
pairs=polygenic>, we#ll make the simplistic assumption
that it#s controlled by a single gene pair=monogenic> for
many of the models and e7amples in this paper. There
are many flavours such as chocolate, vanilla, musky,
skunky, blueberry, etc, but in this section we#ll ust deal
643
with two flavours, pine and pineapple. &ither gene in
the gene pair can code for either of the flavours. If both genes code for
pineapple or both genes code for pine flavour, we say that the gene pair=and
individual plant> is homoBygous for flavour. If the one gene codes for pine and
the other codes for pineapple, we say that the gene pair=and individual plant> is
heteroByous with respect to flavour. The heteroBygous individual can create
gametes =pollen or ovules> that can code for either pine flavour or pineapple
flavourJ the homoBygous individuals can only create gametes that code for one
A' the other. ) homoBygous individual is considered true breeding and a
heteroBygous individual is not.
However, as the words imply, when we are creating a true breeding strain, we
are looking at a population, not individuals. $e are trying to make all the
individuals in the population homoBygous for a particular trait or group of traits.
;ets say we have a population of 5? individual plants, and each plant has has a
gene pair coding for flavour. That means that 6?? flavour genes make up the
flavour genepool=reality is much more comple7>. $hen trying to create a true
breeding strain, we are in fact trying to make all 6?? of those genes code for
the same trait=pineapple flavour in our case>. The closer our population comes
getting all 6?? genes the same, the more homoBygous or true breeding it
becomes. $e use the terminology gene fre@uency to measure and describe this
concept, where gene fre@uency is simply the ratio or percentage of the
population that actually contains a specific gene. The higher the gene
fre@uency, the more true breeding the population is. ) fi7ed trait is where the
gene fre@uency of the trait reaches 6??P.
This is the basic backbone of what breeding is all about, manipulating gene
fre@uencies. It doesn#t matter if your making IH;, :6s, :1s, selecting for this or
selecting for that, all you are really doing is manipulating gene fre@uencies.
Therefore, to ever really understand what is happening in any breeding proect,
the breeder must pay attention to gene fre@uencies and assess how his
selective pressures and models are influencing them. They are his measure of
success.
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'"at ar/ $/ tr,in! to cr/at/ a tru/ br//din! strain 6ro8@
This a good @uestion. 0ometimes a gardener will notice a sport or uni@ue
individual in an :1 population, like say it has pineapple flavour when the rest
have pine flavour. :or one reason or another he decides he wants to preserve
this new trait or combination of traits from that single individual. :or the sake of
ease of comprehension, we tend to call this special uni@ue individual the !6
mom. He could start by selfing the individual A' breeding that individual with
another and create what can be described as :6 offspring. If the :6 route was
chosen, then breeders can diverge down two new paths. 0ome breeders will
take the progeny of the :6 crossing and breed it back to the !6 mom, and then
repeat for a couple more generations. This is referred to as backcrossing or
cubing by cannabis breeders. )nother common strategy is to make :1 progeny
from the :6 population and then look for individuals that match the !6 mom.
They would repeat the process for a few generations. $e can call this filial or
generational inbreeding since the parents from each cross belong to the same
generation.
In another situation, sometimes a farmer will notice a few individuals in his
fields that stand out from the crowd in a positive manner. ;ike say they are
resistant to a problem pest such as powdery mildew. In this case, he will collect
the best of the individuals and his starting population will contain several similar
individuals and not a uni@ue single individual as in the previous e7ample. He
would skip the hybridiBing step =making the :6s> and go straight to the
generational inbreeding step.
A--),in! t"/ 5r/ssur/7 )nother e7cellent method to influence gene
fre@uencies is to apply selective pressure. The idea here is to select only
individuals that carry the desirable genes, and discard the rest.
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IBC 61C B%
)n IH;=inbred line> is a genetically homogeneous strain that grows uniformly
from seed.
) hybrid is a strain made up of two genetically unlike parents, IH; or hybrid.
$hen you cross two different IH; strains for the :I'0T time, it is called the :6
generation. $hen you cross two of the same :6 hybrid=inbreed>, it is called the
:1 generation.
The process of selective inbreeding must continue at least until the :/ to
stabiliBe the recurrently selected traits. $hen you cross two specimens of an IH;
variety, you get more of the same, because an IH; is homoBygous, or true
breeding for particular traits.
+o$ do I bac9cross 8, s-/cia) 6/8a)/@
In this first situation, we#ll deal with the situation where a plant breeder finds a
special individual or clone.
It#s a natural thing to be curious and cross a couple of plants that catch your
fancy. -row them out and find a new variation that you like even better. $e can
preserve the new variation through cloning indefinitely, but accidents happen
and clones die. They can get viruses or can suffer clonal deprivation from
somatic mutations over time. It#s also harder to share clones with friends
through the mail than seeds. 0o it#s only natural that we would want to create
seed backups of this special clone.
Hut before we start breeding this clone, we should try and figure what e7actly it
is we want from the seeds we are going to create. 8o we want them to simply
be able to reproduce individuals like the special cloneC 0imple backcrossing
=cubing> will accomplish this. Ar do we want to to create seeds that will be able
to create more seeds like the special clone, a true breeding strainC These are
very different in nature. (ou see, chances are that your special clone will be
heteroBygous for many of traits she phenotypically e7presses. This ust means
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that she will contain genetic information=genes> for two opposing triats, but you
can only see one, the dominant one. However, her seeds will only get one or the
other of the genes, so her offspring will e7press all the genetic information she
has, including what you can#t see within herself. If you want to create a true
breeding strain, you need to preserve all the genes you can see, and remove all
the genes that you cannot, but may show up in the offspring. +reating
homoBygousity. The only way to accomplish this is through selection and
generational inbreeding=selecting the homoBygous offspring to be parents for
the ne7t generation>.
Bac9crossin! and Cubin!
Hackcrossing is where you breed an individual=your special clone> with it#s
progeny. 0ick in our world, but plants seem to like it.
6. (our first backcross is ust a backcross.
1. (our second backcross where you take the progeny from the first backcross
and cross back to the 0).& parent=grandparent now> is often called 0WG)'ID-
by plant breeders.
4. (our third backcross where you take the progency=s@uared> from the second
backcross and cross back to the 0).& parent=great grandparent now> is often
called +GHID- by plant breeders. (ou can continue the backcrossing but we ust
call this backcrossing. +ubing is in reference to the number three, as in 4
backcrosses
+ubing works on the basis of mathematical probabilities with respect to gene
fre@uencies. The more males you use with each cross, the better the chance
that your reality matches the theory. In theory, with the first backcross, 55P of
your genepool will match the genepool of the !6 parent being cubed. 0@uaring
increases this to 35.5P and cubing increases it to <4.55P. (ou can arrive at
these numbers by taking the average between the two parents making up the
cross. :or instance, you start by crossing the !6 mom=6??P> with and
unrelated male =?P> getting 6??P + ?P divided by 1 U 5?P. Therefore, the
offspring of this first cross are loosely thought of as being 5?P like the mom.
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Take these and do your first backcross and you get 6??P=mom> + 5?P divided
by 1 U 55P. )nd this is where we get the 55P for the first backcross. 0ame
thing applies as you do more backcrosses. )s you will see later, you can apply
this same probability math to specific genes or traits, and this can have a
dramatic effect on your methodology and selection methods.
(our selection of the right males for each backcross are the crucial points for
success with this techni@ue. In each case, you could select males that contain
the genes you want, or you could inadvertently pick those individuals that carry
the unwanted recessive genes. Ar more likely, you could ust pick individuals
that are heteroBygous for both genes like the !6 mom being backcrossed. Ane
of the easiest ways to deal with this is to start by only looking at one gene and
one trait, like lets assume that flavour is determined by a single gene=in reality
it#s probably not>. )nd do some punnet s@uares to show gene fre@uencies
through 4 generations of backcrossing. Dow lets assume that we found a special
pineapple flavoured individual in our pine flavoured population that we wanted
to keep. The gene causing the pineapple flavour could be dominant or recessive
and the selection abilities and cubing outcome will be different in both cases.
a> pineapple flavour is dominant.
! U pineapple flavour and p U pine flavour
Therefore since each individual will have two flavour genes paired up, the
possible genotypes are !!, !p, and pp. 0ince ! is dominant, !! and !p will
e7press pineapple flavour while pp will e7hibit pine flavour, these are their
phenotypes. Dow since the pineapple is a new flavour, chances are that the
special individual will be heteroBygous, or more specifically, !p. Therefore, the
only possible parent combination is !p \ pp with the !p being the parent to be
cubed.
Dow most will find it tough to pick males with the gene for pineapple flavour
since males don#t produce female flowers. Therefore, they will select males
randomly and blindly with respect to this trait. The ratio of ! to p genes of the
male :6 generation to be used in the first backcross will be 1O9. )nother way to
look at it is to say that the ! gene fe@uency is 15P. This means that one out of
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four pollen grains will contain the gene for pineapple flavour.
Dow it#s this first backcross that first creates an individual that is homoBygous
=!!> for the pineapple flavour. However, again because of our limited selection
abilities, we choose males randomly. :rom the random males we should e7pect
three out of eight pollen grains to to contain the gene for pineapple flavour. The
!6 female will still contribute one ! gene for every p gene.
The second backcross=0@uaring> will produce the followingO
4 !! 3 !p 5 pp
Therefore, 93.55P will have pineapple flavour and 46.15P will have pine
flavour. The fre@uency of the ! gene has risen to 5F69 or /4.55P.
)nd finally, the third backcross=+ubing> will net the following genotypic ratiosO
5!! 69!p <pp
Therefore, 56.355P will have pineapple flavour after cubing has been
completed. 'oughly 11P =5F41b6??> of the cubed progeny will be true breeding
for the pineapple flavour. The fre@uency of the ! gene has risen to roughly /5P
=4?F9/>.
If the backcrossing continued indefinitely with random selection of males and
with large enough of a population siBe, the fre@uency of the ! gene would ma7
out at 5?P. This means that the best that can be e7pected from cubing is 15P
true breeding for pineapple flavour and 55P that will display the pineapple
flavour. (ou would never be rid of the 15P that would maintain the pine flavour.
This model would hold true when trying to cube any heteroBygous trait.
b> !ineapple flavour is recessive
In this case, ! is for the pine flavour and p is for pineapple flavour. +onvention is
that the capital letter signifies dominance. :or the breeder to have noticed the
interesting trait, the mom to be cubed would have to be homoBygous for the
649
pineapple flavour =pp>. 8epending where the male came from and whether it
was related, it could be !p or !!, with !! being more likely. It won#t make much
difference which in the outcome.
:6 cross is pretty basic, we#ll skip the diagram. $e simply cross the female =pp>
with the male =!!> and get offspring that are all !p. 0ince the pine flavour is
recessive, none of the :6 offspring will have pineapple flavour=hint>. However,
the fre@uency of the gene p will be 5?P.
pp \ !! U !p + !p + !p + !p
0ince the :6 generation are all the same =!p>, the pollen it donates to the first
backcross will contain a p gene for every ! gene. The first backcross will beO
H6 U pp \ !p U !p + !p + pp + pp
)s you can see, 5?P of the offspring will be pineapple flavoured and the
fre@uency of the p gene is 9F3 or 55P. This H6 generation will generate pollen
containing 9 p genes for every 1 ! genes.
)s you can see, the second backcross or s@uaring produces pineapple flavour in
55P of the offspring. )nd the p gene fre@uency within those offspring is
roughly 33P. ='emember +33>. Af the pollen grains from this s@uaring, 6/ out
of 69 will carry the p gene for pineapple flavouring. $hen they are backcrossed
to the !6 mom for the third time, they net the following cubed progenyO
)fter cubing of a homoBygous gene pair, we end up with roughly 33P of them
displaying the desired trait=pineapple flavour in this case> and also being true
breeding for that same trait. The fre@uency of this desired gene will be roughly
</P. If the backcrossing was to continue indefinitely, the gene fre@uency would
continue to approach 6??P but never entirely get there.
It should be noted that the above e7amples assume no selective pressure and
large enough population siBes to ensure random matings. )s the number of
males used in each generation decreases, the greater the selective pressure
whether intended or not. The significance of a breeding population siBe and
650
selective pressure is much greater when the traits to be cubed are
heteroBygous. )nd most importantly, the above e7amples only take into account
for a single gene pair.
In reality, most of the traits we select for like potency are influenced by several
traits. Then the math gets more complicated if you want to figure out the
success rate of a cubing proect. -enerally speaking, you multiply the
probabilities of achieving each trait against each other. :or e7ample, if your
pineapple trait was influenced by 1 separate recessive genes, then you would
multiply 35.5P b 35.5P =.355 b .355 b6??> and get 59.9P. This means that
59.9P of the offspring would be pineapple flavoured. Dow lets say the
pineapple trait is influenced by 1 recessive traits and and a heteroBygous
dominant one. $e would multiply 35.5P by 35.5P by 56.<P
=.355b.355b.56<b6??> and get 55P. %ust by increasing to three genes, we have
decreased the number of cubed offspring having pineapple flavouring down to
55P. Therefore, cubing is a good techni@ue where you want to increase the
fre@uency of a few genes =this is an important point to remember >, but as the
proect increases, the chance of success decreases .... at least without some
level of selective pressure.
A--),in! 5r/ssur/
The best way to significantly increase your chances of success is to apply
intended selective pressure and eliminate unintentional selective pressure. Try
to find clearcut and efficient ways to isolate and select for and against certain
traits. :ind ways to be sure your males are passing along the intended traits and
remove all males that do not. This includes );; traits that may be selected for.
0ome traits you will be able to observe directly in the males. Ather traits like
flowering duration you may not. If you are selecting for a trait you can#t directly
observe, you want to do some progeny tests and determine which males pass
on the most desireable genes. I#ll e7plain more on progeny tests later.
It#s important that when choosing your best males to ignore the superficial traits
having nothing to do with the real traits your looking for. (ou see, cannabis has
several thousand genes residing on ust 6? chromosome pairs or 1? individual
chromosomes. Therefore each chomosome contains hundred of genes. &ach
651
gene residing on the same chromosome is said to be linked to each other.
-enerally speaking, they travel as a group. If you select for one of them, you
are actually selecting for all of the traits on the chromosome. There is an
e7ception to this rule referred to as breaking linked genes via crossing over, but
for simplicity sake, we will ignore that for now. -etting back to selection, you
could decide to select for a trait such as you like the spikey look of the leaves
while really being interested in fi7ing the grapefruit flavour. Hut as it may
happen, both traits may be on the same chromosome pair but opposite
chromosomes. If so, as long as you select the plants with spikey leaves, you will
never get the grapefruit flavour you really want. It#s good to keep in mind that
each time you select for a trait, you are selecting against several hundred genes
This is why most serious breeders learn to take small methodical steps and work
on one or two traits at a time. &specially with inbreeding proects such as selfing
and backcrossing.
Dow let#s see what kind of improvements we can make in the first e7ample of
trying to cube a heteroBygous dominant trait using some selective pressure.
;et#s say that with each generation, we are able to remove the individuals
recessive for the pine flavour =pp>, but can#t remove the heteroBygous ones
=!p>. If you recall, our !6 mom had the genotype =!p> in that model and the :6
cross yielded =!p + !p + pp + pp> as possible offspring combinations. $e
remove the two =pp> individuals leaving us with only !p. Therefore our first
backcross will beO
!p b !p U !! + !p + !p + pp
)gain we remove the pp individual leaving us with !! + 1!p. -oing into the
second backcross we have increased our ! gene fre@uency from 45.5P up to
99.5P. This means that going into the second backcross / of every si7 pollen
grains will carry the ! gene.
)s you can see, after selecting against the homoBygous recessives for 1
backcrosses, we have increased our ! gene fre@uency to 53P from //P in our
s@uared population. If we again remove the homoBygous recessives, our gene
fre@uency increases to 5?P =6/F1?> going into the third backcross, meaning
that 5 out of 6? pollen grains will carry the ! gene.
652
H4 cross U 5 !! + 6? !p + 4 pp
This translates to mean that <5P of the progeny will taste like pineapple after
cubing a heteroBygous dominant strain if the homoBygous pine tasting ones are
removed prior to to each backcross. This is an improvement from 51P when no
selection occurred. The fre@uency of individuals true breeding for the pineapple
flavour rose to 45P. Hut more importantly, the ! gene fre@uency improves to
9?P. This will be an important consideration when we discuss progeny testing .
Hut for now lets recap the percentage of individuals true breeding for the
pineapple taste in each of the models. In the case where the pineapple flavour
trait is heteroBygous dominant and no selective pressure is used, cubing
produced 11P true breeding individuals. Hy selecting against the homoBygous
pine recessive, we were able to increase this too 45P. )nd finally, when cubing
a homoBygous recessive gene, we are able to achieve a cubed population that is
35.5P true breeding for the pineapple flavour. )nd as I pointed out earlier,
these numbers only apply to single gene traits.
;et#s say the pineapple flavour is coded by two separate genes, one dominant
and one recessive, and you are able to select against the homoBygous recessive
pine flavour while selecting for the dominant pineapple flavour gene. (our cubed
population would then contain 35.5P b 45P =.355 b .45 b 6??> U 4?P true
breeding individuals. )s you can see, as long as the cubed source is
heteroBygous, it doesn#t matter how many backcrosses you do, you will never
achieve a true breeding strain.
653
Incr/asin! Bud 5ot/nc, and +ar0/st Yi/)d
There are several things growers can do to improve their mariuana yield and
potency=TH+ content>. Increasing mariuana yield and TH+ content is
accomplished first by mastering and keeping all the basics consistent, such as
mariuana grow room temperature, watering schedule, nutrient feeding, and
using the proper high intensity discharge light. This in and of itself will grow
impressive mariuana plants. The two most determinate factors of your yield
amount is the strains you choose=good genetics> and the ;ight. Aptimal high
@uality lighting along with spectacular strains will produce awesome yields and
an abundance of potent buds from your plants. )lso be sure to read the
information throughout this eHook for tips on producing massive yields and
@uality potent buds. Increasing mariuana yield is the desire of all mariuana
growers who have mastered the basics.
654
.astering the basics of mariuana growing will then allow you to begin
considering some advance mariuana growing techni@ues to increase yield and
bud potency. The mariuana plant yield L @uality can be increased in many
ways.
655
(ou see, yield is e@ually contingent on a number of factorsJ light, temperature,
humidity, water, nutrients, +A1Fventilation, genetics, etc. Think of it as an
engine, with each factor of cultivation representing a single piston, sure the
engine will run if some of the cylinders are misfiring or not firing at all, but to
get the most power from that engine, all cylinders must be firing in sync and at
ma7imum capacity.
Hig frosty buds are your reward for doing everything correctly. There is no
magic bullet that makes your yields go from Bero to hero. $ith that being said, I
personally think the most important things in regards to yield are proper pH,
canopy management, and a reputable line of nutrients.
656
Here are the factors that will greatly affect your mariuana plant#s harvest yield
and potencyF@uality the mostO
2/!u)at/ +u8idit,
TH+ is found in the resin glands that form on the plant during the maturation
process. These glands act as a shield to protect the seed from the searing heat
of the sun. This is needed more in a hot, dry atmosphere, than a hot humid
one. To ma7imiBe resin production drop the humidity in the room for the
flowering stage, the lower the better. Hut no matter how much resin you induce
on an Indica it#s still not going to give you the stone of a 0ativaJ so it does have
a lot to do with your personal tastes and e7pectations.
+annabis does best around /5P*55P rH =relative humidity>. 8uring vegetative
and late flowering, however letting it drop lower during the final two weeks of
flower is advised, as it will help prevent mold problems.
657
5ro-/r i!"tin!
!lants need rest too" 0ome growers recommend 1?F/ for vegetative growth.
The theory is that plants do better=produce more carbohydrates> with less light
over a longer period of time in contrast to a lot of light for a shorter period of
time. There is a point of light saturation where more light will work against you
by bleaching out the lifeblood of the plant * chlorophyll. ;earn to Qread your
plantsQ and keep those leaves healthy and green until harvest. 0ome growers
feel that in general you want to give your plants more light during vegetative
658
growth and less during flowering. Their theory is to think about what occurs in
nature. The flowering response is not the time to bleach out the leaves with
high light intensities=and high !hosphorus foods>. Their claim is that ultra low
levels of Ditrogen found in bloom foods will generally not support leaf health.
.any will find that after turning to 61F61 for 4*/ weeks to put it up to 64F66
increases yields dramatically and makes the plant flower slightly longer which
adds more growth time and overall increases yield.
Hut still, many grower stress the importance of ma7imiBing light efficiency. They
feel the more light mariuana plants receive the faster and healthier they will
growJ increasing their yield. !roperly hanging high intensity discharge bulbs so
light hits the mariuana plant more than anywhere else can easily increase yield.
)dding white reflective plastic to bounce light off the walls back to the cannabis
plants is important to produce great mariuana. :ocus light where it is needed
most. :ind the right amount of light for your plants, in due time you will get a
feel for the &\)+T amount and light e7posure times needed to ensure an
e7plosive harvest.
Ma4i8i=/ )i!"t /66ici/nc,7 The more light mariuana plants receive the faster
and healthier they will grow. Typically the more light you give the plant , the
better the yield will be. 8ouble the lu7, double the yield.
A--ro4i8at/ Co0/ra!/7
/??$ is 6m1O 5*6? plants
9??$ is 6.5m1O 5*6/ plants
6???$ is 1m1O 65*1? plants
!roperly hanging high intensity discharge bulbs so that the light hits the
mariuana plant only=in other words, the light does not disperse> can easily
increase yield. )dding white reflective plastic, .ylar, or painting the walls a :lat
$hite to bounce light off the walls back to the cannabis plants is an important
foundation to produce great mariuana and massive yields. Typically, the more
light the merrier, but be warned that more light will create stronger water,
nutrient, and +A1 demands on the plants. (ou must also have the proper
659
spectrum of lighting as well as a means of efficiently reflecting as much of the
light as possible into the garden#s canopy. The norm is to use more bluish light
=.etal Halide, cool*white fluorescents> for 2egetative -rowth and more reddish
=High !ressure sodium, warm fluoros> light for :lowering.
Though it is possible to grow great buds under fluorescent lighting and a few
will even argue their superiority to HI8#s, most indoor growers use High
Intensity 8ischarge lights such as .H and H!0, and many use fluoros for
vegetative growth and H!0 for flowering. )s you can recall from the lighting
section it#s very important to have the light as physically close to the canopy as
possible without burning the foliage and still allowing for even coverage. .any
new growers believe that dropping the light closer to the plant will be beneficial.
Hesides heat stress, the bulb puts out radiant energy that causes leaf burn.
660
=Dote it is possible to complete a grow using ust H!0 or .H>.
;amps can greatly lose lumen output over the course of < months to a year.
They usually depreciate in lumen output by 4?P over this time frame. This
means that you will get 4?P less yield from your plants but it is costing you the
same amount of electric to run them. It is therefore a false economy to run old
lamps.
Maintain O-ti8a) T/8-/ratur/
Temperature and the importance of dayFnight differential play a key role in both
bud potency and harvest yield. In general, a 35Y:=1<./Y+>F5?Y:=16.6Y+>
dayFnight temperature is best for most hybrids for ma7imum carbohydrate
production. $hat#s really important is a good drop in temperature at night, of at
least 65Y:=*<./Y+>. If night temperatures are too high, the plant will use up the
carbohydrates manufactured during the day to the process of respiration as
opposed to plant cell divisionFelongation=tissue production>.
661
.ost cannabis plants will slow or cease growth when temperature gets above
35Y:=1<./Y+> or below 95Y:=63.4Y+>. Aptimal lights*on temp for most strains is
about 51*53Y:=11.1*15.5Y+>, with 5 to 6?Y:=*65 to *61.1Y+> cooler during the
dark period being a good rule of thumb.
Contro) 'at/r
+ontrary to popular belief, wetFdry cycles are DAT good, especially for organic
growers. Eeep the soil medium moist but not saturated to the point where air is
e7cluded. $hen you water, dont be shy. $ater until there is a good runoff. The
issue is not over*watering, it#s watering to the point of the e7clusion of air.
Di!ita) M/t/rs
+alibrate your digital pH and cf meters regularly. Gsing buffer / and buffer 5 for
your pH meters and conductivity standard for your cf meter. $ithout regular
calibrating, these meters could be out of skew, and a wrong reading can make a
lot of difference.
B/rti)i=/rs
It is critical to use the proper mariuana fertiliBers according to the cannabis
plant needs. Gnderstanding how and when to use mariuana fertiliBers will
greatly increase your mariuana yield.
8eveloping their own mariuana fertiliBer formula is often one of the maor
talents of a veteran mariuana grower. ) pH and !!. meter is re@uired to
develop the best mariuana fertiliBer formula. This is discussed in detail in the
Dutrient section.
662
663
Gnderstanding how much cannabis fertiliBer your mariuana plants can handle
during both the vegetative and mariuana flowering phase is critical to
increasing mariuana yield. 0ome mariuana plants are referred to as heavy
eaters, that is, they can consume plenty of mariuana fertiliBers. $hereas some
mariuana plants are more delicate and re@uire less mariuana fertiliBer.
'A2NING7 (o8/ Gro$ B)oo8/rs and ad0anc/d 6//din! -roducts on
t"/ 8ar9/t toda, 8a, actua)), -roduc/ "i!"/r ,i/)ds but !r/at), )o$/r
t"/ -ot/nc, o6 ,our bud and -roduc/ an a$9$ard tast/. E4-/ri8/nt
$it" t"/8 in ord/r to ac"i/0/ t"/ o-ti8a) /66/ct 6or ,our s-/ci6ic
strains.
8uring the vegetative phase mariuana plants will dramatically increase their
growth by using the correct amount of mariuana fertiliBers. Dot all mariuana
fertiliBers are made the same. Dirvana potassium based suspension or $et Hetty
=an organic mariuana fertiliBer> are e7cellent at increasing mariuana yield by
building a strong healthy plant during vegetative phase. Hoth these mariuana
fertiliBers can be used to spray on cannabis plants ust before the lights go out.
They will increase mariuana growth.
664
There are all sorts of way to implement fertiliBers for increasing harvest and
potency. :or e7ample, 8r. Hornby#s Arganic Iguano %uice is a li@uid organic
mariuana fertiliBer that is applied during watering. This mariuana fertiliBer
increases root production, creating the foundation to increase frosty mariuana
yield.
Ine7perienced mariuana growers often use too much 8r. Hornby Hig Hud when
they begin to see the results during the cannabis flowering phase though. %ust a
little Hig Hud mariuana fertiliBer is needed to increase mariuana yields. This
powder is added during regular watering at the start of the mariuana flowering
phase. )dd Hig Hud to increase mariuana yield, but never during the last two
weeks of flowering. 8o not use Hig Hud=or any other fert> during the last two
665
weeks of mariuana flowering as it will greatly effect mariuana taste. :lushing is
critical if you want incredible tasting buds.
$hen achieving increased mariuana yields many mariuana growers make the
mistake of using too much mariuana fertiliBer. This can have a negative impact
on the mariuana plant. 8uring the final weeks of mariuana flower it#s critical to
use clean water to flush the mariuana plant of all remaining fertiliBers. The best
mariuana growers won#t harvest their mariuana plant until all the fertiliBers
have been cleansed from the plant.
Gro$/rKs s9i)):Ad0anc/d B//din!7 -rowers can add yield byO using additives
=like H6, kelp, enBymes>, foliar feeding, and toppingF:I..
666
Bo)ia!/ 5roduction
-row for the most amount of foliage you can going into the flowering response.
.aintain those leaves in a green and healthy condition up until harvest, even if
it means switching fertiliBer to a high D value, like a <*4*9.
667
Us/ Mo)ass/s
.olasses is e@uivalent to the
carbohydrate loading products
sold in the hydro stores. They
help add bud mass during
flowering, feed the good bacteria,
add beneficial micro*nutrients.
.olasses is a syrupy, thick uice
created by the processing of
either sugar beets or the sugar
cane plant. .olasses=average
D!E 6*?*5> contains potash,
sulfur, and many trace minerals, it
can serve as a nutritious soil
amendment. It is a good, @uick
source of energy for the various forms of microbes and soil life in a compost pile
or good living soil.
.olasses is also an e7cellent chelating agent. ) +helating agent means that
molasses is one of the substances that can convert some chemical nutrients
into a form thats easily available for critters and plants. +helated minerals
can be absorbed directly and remain available and stable in the soil.
)ny kind of molasses will work to provide benefit for soil and growing
plants, but blackstrap molasses is the best choice because it contains the
greatest concentration of sulfur, iron and micronutrients from the original
cane material.
Its a great source of carbohydrates to stimulate the growth of beneficial
microorganisms. It simply is the best carbohydrate sugar for horticultural
use and should be used by any grower serious about growing some serious
weed.
Hlackstrap .olasses is the best kind for supporting e7plosive growth and
sparkling crystal buds.
668
2oots
)nyone who has e7perience with plants knows that healthy and prolific root
growth is crucial to a bountiful harvest. !lants with unhealthy root systems are
going to yield less than plants with lots of space for root growth and healthy
thriving roots.
5)ant:2oot:Contain/r (i=/7 The longer a plant is vegetated, the bigger it will
get and the more it will yield. )lmost always overlooked because unseen are the
roots * root mass is directly related to bud production. 0imply put, the more
roots you have the more bud you will=potentially> have. He sure to always allow
plenty of space for the roots to grow and spread out, even more*so in soil. )
general rule of thumb is 6 gallon of soil for every foot of plant height.
669
U-cannin!>r/-ottin!?7 This is a cool little techni@ue to e7plode root growth.
0core the rootball K that isJ pop the ball out and using a raBor blade or sharp
knife insert it about TQ into the rootball at the top and slice thru the e7posed
roots from top to bottom concentrating on any root spinout at the bottom.
'otate the rootball and do this about / times. Hury the MtrunkN as deep as you
can even if it means pulling off some of the lower leafsets. This will induce root
output all along the buried trunk.
(train (/)/ction
:or massive yields, purchasing mariuana seeds that are designated high
yielding is the building block to increasing mariuana yield. )void 0ativa
mariuana strains as 0ativa mariuana plants produce light fluffy=potent>
mariuana buds. 0ativa is an uplifting motivational mariuana high. :or heavy
yields purchase a pure Indica mariuana strain. These mariuana types produce
dense heavy mariuana buds and couch lock mariuana high. +ommercial
mariuana growers always grow Indica mariuana because of increase mariuana
yield versus 0ativa.
Not/7 T"/s/ ti-s out)in/d in t"is s/ction $i)) assist in -roducin! 8a4i8u8
,i/)ds>-us"in! t"/8 to t"/ 8a4? 6or ,our (ati0a -)ants as $/)) t"ou!".
670
Hy choosing mariuana seeds suitable to your indoor mariuana grow conditions
you will ensure a very good yield.
0ome strains simply have the potential to yield more than others. )lso keep in
mind having a heavy*yielding strain doesn#t automatically e@ual big yields either.
It only means that the potential for heavy yields is there. The grower must
provide the optimum environment for that particular strain in order for it to be
able to reach it#s yield potential, and each strain has slightly uni@ue
re@uirements. )lso, within a strain there are usually several phenotypes, each of
which will e7hibit uni@ue characteristics which is to say that some phenotypes of
a particular strain will weigh more than others. 'emember that selecting
mariuana seeds for increasing mariuana yield doesn#t mean you have to
sacrifice any other desirable phenotypes. $ith so many mariuana seeds to
choose from a mariuana grower can find a mariuana type that is both heavy
yielding, potent, and great tasting.
671
8epending on the mariuana growers preference some grow for mariuana high
while others are looking for a great mariuana yield. 0electing mariuana seeds
for increase mariuana yield doesn#t mean the mariuana grower has to sacrifice
yield. $ith so many mariuana seeds to choose from a mariuana grower can
find a mariuana type that is both heavy yielding and great tasting.
5runin!
Ane of the most effective ways to improve your harvest yield is by pruning your
plants so that they produce fewer, but much bigger buds. The pruning section in
this guidebook covers pretty much everything you need to know but we can go
into more details here with specific techni@ues for increasing harvest yield.
672
8epending upon the genetics of your plants and your goals for harvest you
should determine the type and style of the trim. ) lot of hard work goes into
pruning and stalking plants, but it results in bigger, higher grade buds that
re@uire less manicuring.
Hefore a serious pruning a mariuana plant might have 69 * 1? branches. $hen
the prune is completed the cannabis plant will only four or si7 remaining
branches that receive plenty of light. +lip any small buds and branches under
the canopy, along with any less developed branches. .any of the undergrowth
branches will only produce popcorn siBe mariuana buds. Instead cut these
branches to create mariuana clones. These smaller cannabis buds will only Bap
energy from the cannabis plant. Huds under the canopy that are small do not
mature well and leech energy from the upper buds. Hy removing them a
mariuana grower will increase yields and @uality of their harvest because the
mariuana plant is focusing all its energy on a select few heavy producing
branches.
673
This branch#s top is less than half the way to the top, so it#s useless. :irst start
at the bottom of the plant. .ake sure that there#s nothing to stop airflow under
the plant. )ir flow is e7tremely important in getting healthy plants with good
yields. )s the leaves use up the +A1 and produce A1, small pockets of useless
A1 are collecting under the leaves. If your garden has good circulation, this
won#t be a problem, the air is constantly moving throughout the entire surface
of every leaf, however gently. 0o start by cleaning up useless leaves and
branches that are at the bottom four to five inches of the plant. DA -'&&D will
e7ist here e7cept for the branches themselves. 0nip right off any stray branches
like the one in the picture above.
674
(ou can also start by pruning a leaf from each node in a staircase pattern, as
soon as the first 5 bladed leaf appears. This will stimulate lateral growth and
open the plant to more light.
Top around the /*5 node, using the :I. techni@ue, leaving about 1?P of the
growth tip intact. Topping will create at least 1 new budding sites, and with
proper use of the :I. techni@ue I have had as many as 5, and have heard of as
many as 3. Topping will allow bottom branches time to grow and catch up,
making them closer to the lights.
675
$ith proper training and manipulation, you can get these giant plants to grow
horiBontal, effectively reducing the overall height of your garden as much as
5?P. This way you can lower the lights as close as possible to all budding sites.
$ith many budding sites very close to the light, you will get a better yield of
grade*) bud. )s opposed to having smaller shaded buds trapped under an
untrained canopy, which will never fully develop.
(cro!:(o!:</rtica) Gard/ns7 These systems have a higher gFwFtime yield
than comparable large plant system over the same time period. .any modern
growers report yields increasing drastically once they started doing the 0crA-
method and :I.ming their girls.
(u-/r Cro--in!7 +utting branches to create a plant that grows bigger buds is
done according to the plant. 0ome mariuana plants can be topped, that is their
top branch cut off, to produce two mariuana colas. Hut it is important to noteJ
many mariuana types can#t be topped.
5inc"in! /a6 Ti-s
)nother still*e7perimental process to increase the resin it to pinch off the leaf
tips as soon as they appear from the time the plant is in the seedling stage on
through its entire life*span. This produces a distorted, wrecked*looking plant
which would be very difficulty to recogniBe as mariuana. Af course, there is less
substance to this plant, but such wrecked creatures have been known to
produce so much resin that is crystalliBes a strong hash all over the surface of
the plant * might be wise to try it on a plant or two and see what happens.
676
B/ndin! U Trainin!
.any growers like to bend their branches to ensure ma7imum light e7posure
which directly influences harvest yield.
) key e7ample of this is bending the branches horiBontally so that the buds
grow vertically towards the light source. Hecause the buds all receive much
more light, they will turn into a very generous top. This is one way to assist in
generating massive yields.
677
The fan leaves are necessary for the photosynthesis and stores a supply of
sugar, which the plant needs to develop rich thriving flowers. In order to get
more light to lower bud sites during flowering, bend and tie the fan leaves so
that they don#t block the light from the other plants. (ou can also do this=only
do the following if it#s '&);;( necessary> cut away portions of the fan leaves
located on the top of the plant, blocking the light. +ut away the fan leaves. If
you remove too many fan leaves the plant will have no supply of sugar, so be
very careful with this.
678
Crus"in! Buds
.el :rank=an e7pert on growing @uality cannabis> uses a secret tipO you should
roll the new buds between finger and thumb hard enough to crush the tip. This
will cause many more buds to start at that site.
679
(//d)in!s
8o not plant young plants into systems unless they are showing good root
development. If no roots are showing wait till there is before transplanting to
your system. If you plant too soon, the rootball becomes saturated and this
prohibits the plant#s growth.
Contro) 'at/r
+annabis generally doesn#t like Qwet feetQ, or a soggy environment so it#s very
important to have a fast draining soilFsoil*less mi7 =or well aerated solution in a
hydro garden>. &7cessively wet or damp conditions can also lead to mold
problems during flowering.
680
Misc/))an/ous Tric9s
Tricks like keeping nutrients and the air temperatures warm during night cycle
can help final yield. )lthough it#s a topic of hot debate, it is generally thought
681
that any system that supplies the roots with ma7imum o7ygen=aeroponics>
would outperform a system that restricts ?1 input=such as soil>. 0o, as you can
see there#s much more to yield than throwing some plants under tons of light
with tons of nutrients. Hefore one becomes too concerned with yield, one must
first learn how to grow plants well, learn how to QlistenQ to the plants and give
them ust what they need. It#s best to start with simpler methods, in fact, I
think the simpler method is always the better one. ;earn how to grow strong,
healthy, fast*growing plants=master the basics> and the yields will come.
Cuttin! O66 'at/rin!7 (ou can stop any watering as the plants begin to make
the resin rise to the flowers. This increases the resin a little bit.
(un)a8-s7 (ou can use a sunlamp on the plants as they begin to develop
flower stalks.
Bud (ni--in!7 (ou can snip off the flower, right at the spot where it oins the
plant,and a new flower will form in a couple of weeks. This can be repeated two
or three times to get several times more flowers than usual.
Et"/)7 If the plants are sprayed with &thel early in their growing stage, they
will produce almost all female plants. This usually speeds up the flowering
also, it may happen in as little as two weeks.
E4-/ri8/nta) Co)c"icin/7 Ane recent method floating around out there to
increase TH+ content greatly is by the use of colchicine. +olchicine is a highly
poisonous alkaloid, originally e7tracted from plants of the genus +olchicum.
Ariginally used to treat rheumatic complaints and especially gout, it was also
prescribed for its cathartic and emetic effects. Its present medicinal use is
mainly in the treatment of gout. It is being investigated for its potential use as
an anti*cancer drug as well. It can also be used as initial treatment for
pericarditis and preventing recurrences of the condition. $hen added to
mariuana apparently the results are nothing short of awesome...
Not/7 I haven#t tried this myself so I can only report it to you here. Gse at your
own risk.
682
CO% G/n/ration
Through the process known as photosynthesis, plants thrive off of +A1=carbon
dio7ide> intake. !lants re@uire +A1. There is sufficient +A1 in our atmosphere to
support massive bud growth, but when growing inside you must either have
ade@uate ventilation =the volume of the room e7hausted at least onceF5
minutes> to ensure that there is a constant supply of fresh, +A1 enriched air.
!lants can consume and benefit from up to as much as 57 the amount of +A1
that would normally occur in the air in nature.
Ane must have supplemental +A1, which re@uires higher temperatures and
more nutrients to be utiliBed effectively. +A1 is a trade secret on how to
generate big buds, to increase the +A1 levels in your grow areas environment
the purchase of a +A1 generator is recommended. Gnder bright lights mariuana
plants can greatly decrease the amount of +A1 in the mariuana grow room.
Dormally the +A1 levels in the air of most grow rooms are @uite low, so adding
683
a +A1 tank on a timer will help your buds growth tremendously. .ariuana
plants grow much faster, and produce heavier yields, when they receive +A1*
enriched air right up until the last two weeks of mariuana flowering. He careful
with this one, as you may not know what to do with all the @uality mariuana
you will be producing"
684
&levating environmental carbon dio7ide levels in your grow area can increase
growth speeds tremendously, likely even doubling them""" +A1 is a gas that
make up appro7imately .?4 ppm =parts per million> of our atmosphere. It is one
of the basic raw materials used by plants in the process of photosynthesis.
$hen your plants are e7posed to a +A1 rich environment, they grow like craBy"
Not/7 C"/c9 t"/ b/)o$ s/ction on Ca)cu)atin! CO% 2/Duir/8/nts i6 ,ou $ant to
9no$ "o$ 8uc" to introduc/ into ,our !ro$ roo8 to /nsur/ 8a4i8u8 !ro$t".
.any growers boast about increased yield from providing a +A1 rich
environment for their plants. Hack before air pollution was a problem, the
natural level of +A1 was much much higher in the natural environment. The
plant uses +A1 for photo*synthesis to create sugars it uses to build up its plant
tissues. &levating the +A1 level will increase the plants ability to manufacture
these glucose sugars and plant growth rate is enhanced considerably.
$hen plants are growing indoors in an enclosed area, there tends to be a
limited amount of +A1 available in the air. Ance the plants use up all the
available +A1, photosynthesis stops. $hen .1 percent=1???ppm>, or si7 times
the amount usually found in the atmosphere is used it can increase your plant#s
growth rate by up to a factor of five"
685
The downside is that +A1 can be a pain to manufacture cheaply, safely, andFor
conveniently. It#s very e7pensive to set up if you use a +A1 tank system. +A1 is
most usable for flowering, as this is when the plant is most dense and has the
hardest time circulating air around its leaves. If you#re strictly growing
vegetatively indoors=transferring your plants outdoors to flower>, then +A1 will
not be a maor concern unless you have a sealed greenhouse, closet or
bedroom, and wish to increase yield and decrease flowering time, as this is an
awesome method of doing so.
The simplest way to create +A1 in your environment is to combine vinegar and
baking soda. (ou can get creative here and design a mechanism where vinegar
will drip into the baking soda at appropriate timed intervals, this will ensure +A1
to be created continuously. )nother method is through sugar fermentation, but
serious growers rely on more advanced methods.
:or a medium siBed indoor operation, one way is to use +A1 canisters from
wielding supply houses. This method#s initial cost can be @uite pricy, but fairly
ine7pensive in the long run. These canisters are good only if your area is not too
big or too small
Do/s )i!"t 6ro8 a co% !/n/rator int/rru-t t"/ dar9 c,c)/@
(es. )ny light during the dark cycle should be completely eliminated.
This is not difficult because co1 is not necessary during the dark cycle and will
not increase the rate of photosynthesis * it should be turned off to conserve
resources.
686
Basic CO% (/tu-
The basic +A1 tank system setup looks
like thisO
1? lb tank X6??
'egulator X65<
Timer or controller X6?*615
:ill up X65*1?
Total U X4<5 for a +A1 tank setup synced to a e7haust fan with a thermostat.
+A1 is cheaply produced by burning Datural -as. However, heat and +arbon
.ono7ide must be vented to the outside air. +A1 can be obtained by buying or
leasing cylinders from local welding supply houses. If asked, you can say you
have an old mig welder at home and need to patch up the lawnmower =trailer,
car, etc.>
:or a small closet, one tank could easily last 1 months. =)ll you would have to
do is have it on a hose and surround your plants with the hose poking holes in it
for ma7imum +A1 dispersion>. This all depends on how much is released, how
often the room is vented, hours of light cycle, room leaks, enrichment levels and
dispersion methods. Eeep in mind that this method might be overkill for your
small closet. It is recommended to have a small constant flow of +A1 over the
plants at all times the lights are on, dispersed directly over the plants during the
time e7haust fans are off.
687
.any opportunities e7ist to conserve +A1, but this can cost money. $hen the
light is off you don#t need +A1. 0o during :lowering, you will use half as much if
you have the +A1 solenoid setup to your light timer. $hen the fan is on for
venting, +A1 is shut off as well. This may be up to half the time the light is on,
so this will affect the plants e7posure times and amount of gas actually
dispensed.
&nvironmentally, using bottled gas is better, since manufacturing it adds to
greenhouse effect, and bottled +A1 is captured as part of the manufacturing
process of many materials, and then recycled. :ermenting, +A1 generators, and
baking soda and vinegar methods all generate new +A1 and add to greenhouse
effect.
+A1 generation is all possible from fermentation. ) simple +A1 generator would
be a propane heater. This will work well, as long as the gases can be vented to
the grow area, and a fan is used to keep the hot +A1=that will rise> circulating
and available below at the plants level. :ire and e7haust venting of the heat are
issues as well. ) room that must be vented 5?P of the time to rid the
environment of heat from a lamp and heater will not receive as much +A1 as a
room that can be kept unvented for hours at a time. However, +A1 generators
are the only way to go for large operations.
:ermentation or vinegar over baking soda will work if you don#t have many vent
cycles, but if you have enough heat to make constant or regular venting
necessary, these methods become impractical. %ust pour the vinegar on baking
soda and close the door, =you lose your +A1 as soon as the vent comes on>.
This method leaves a great deal to be desired, since it is not easy to regulate
automatically, and re@uires daily attention. It is possible however, to create +A1
by fermentation, let the wine turn to vinegar, and pour this on baking soda. It#s
the most cost*effective setup for most closet growers, for whom X/?? in +A1
e@uipment is a bit too pricy.
In fermentation, yeast is constantly killing itself, it takes a lot of space. (ou need
a big bin to constantly keep adding water to, so that the alcohol levels will not
rise high enough to kill the yeast. 0ugar is used @uickly this way, and a 6?
688
pound sack will run X4.5? or so and last about 1*4 weeks. This is also difficult to
gauge what is happening as far as amounts actually released. ) tube out the
top going into a ar of water will bubble and demonstrate the amount of +A1
being produced.
(ou can try sodium bicarbonate mi7ed with vinegar, 6 tspO [4?cc* this will gush
up all frothy as it releases +A1. 8o it ust before you close the door on your
plants. ) .G+H cheaper way to provide +A1 is 1 AB sugar in 1 liters of water in
a bottle=steriliBed 6st with bleach and water, then rinsed>, plus a few cc of urine
or if you insist, yeast nutrient from a home brewing supplier. )dd a brewing
yeast, shake up and keep at [5?Y:=16.6Y+>.
Aver ne7t 1 weeks or so it will brew up about 6F1 AB +A1 for every AB sugar
used. Eeep a few going at once, starting a new one every 4 days or so. $ith
added +A1 growth is phenomenal""" Ane grower reports measuring 43cm
growth in 3 days under a 15?watt H!0 bulb`tubular clear, HoriBontal mount.a
) good container is a 6 gallon plastic milk ug, with a pin*hole in the cap. )lso,
the air*lock from a piece of clear tube running into a ar filled with water will
keep microbes out and demonstrate the fermentation is working.
) variation of this method is to spray seltBer water on the plants twice a day.
This is not recommended by some authorities, and receives great raves by
people who seem to feel it has enhanced their crop. It stands to reason this
would work for only a small unvented closet, but may be right for some
situations.
It could get e7pensive with a lot of plants to spray. Gse seltBer, not club soda,
since it contains less sodium that could clog the plants stomata. $ash your
plants with straight water after 1 or 4 seltBer sprays. It#s a lot of work, and you
can#t automate it, but maybe that#s good" 'emember, being with the plants is a
beautiful e7perience, and brings you closer to your spiritual self and the earth.
0eltBer is available at most grocery stores.
+lub soda will work if seltBer water is not availableJ but it has twice as much
sodium in it. ) very diluted solution of .iracle -row can be sprayed on the plant
689
at the same time. Ane factor of using seltBer water is it raises humidity levels.
.ake sure your venting humidity during the dark cycle, or you could risk fungus
and increased internode length. ='ememberO an internode is the place on the
stem where the leaf=plus its stem> intersects the main stem.>
'A2NING7 DonKt s-ra, too c)os/ to a "ot bu)b1 (-ra, do$n$ard on),C
or turn o66 t"/ )a8- 6irst.
&ven though +A1 enrichment can mean 4?*6??P yield increases, the hassle,
e7pense, space, danger, and time involved can make constant or near constant
venting a desirable alternative to enrichment. )s long as the plant has the
opportunity to take in new +A1 at all times, from air that is over 1?? ppm +A1,
the plants will have the re@uired nutrients for photo*synthesis. .ost closets will
need new +A1 coming in every two or three hours minimum. .ost city#s# will
have high concentrations of +A1 in the air, and some growers find +A1 inection
unnecessary in these circumstances.
0ome growers have reported that high +A1 levels in the grow room near
harvest time lower potency. In order to avoid this it is a good idea to turn off
+A1 two weeks before harvesting.
Ca)cu)atin! CO% 2/Duir/8/nts
0o you need to know how much +A1 to addC
6. .easure and multiplyO ;ength 7 $idth 7 Height of your grow room to
calculate the volume of cubic feet.
1. -enerally, the +A1 level in a grow room is 4?? ppm. To bring your room to an
optimum level of 65?? ppm, you will need to raise the c?1 by 61?? ppm.
4. .ultiply your room volume by ?.??61 =6 1?? ppm U ?.??61> to determine
how much c?1 to add to your grow room.
690
&\).!;&O a 6?# 7 3# 7 6?# roomO
6. 2olumeU ; 7 $ 7 H
volumeU 6? 7 3 7 6? U 3?? cubic feet
1. 3?? cubic feet 7 ?.??61 U.<9 cubic feet** you can round this to 6 cubic foot.
(ou will therefore need to add 6 cubic foot of c?1 to a 6? 7 3 7 6? grow room to
bring the c?1 level to 6 5?? ppm.
B/r8/ntation
This is done by fermenting sugars with yeast. 0ometimes even basic sugar and
water is used for this purpose. Athers use a more sophisticated blend with
nutrients for the yeast. (ou will need to use an airlock =tubing coming out of a
sealed fermentation vessel or ug and placed in a cup of water so the +A1 has
to bubble out through the water will work>. This method is very cheap and easy
to setup but while every bit helps this will not raise your +A1 levels to the ideal
65??*1???ppm.
Dr, Ic/
)nother method to generate +A1 by simply melting dry ice =which is froBen
+A1> but it is difficult to control the speed of release to precisely control the
+A1 levels. )dditionally you will need to add ice each day and the ice can not be
kept in your freeBer.
691
<in/!ar and Ba9in! (oda
$hen vinegar and baking soda react they release +A1. (ou can produce +A1 at
a controlled rate by utiliBing a drip system. (ou can make your own bottle.
692
5ro-an/ Burn/rs
!ropane burners generate lots of +A1 and can be controlled but they also
generate lots of heat that must be e7hausted.
(tor/d CO% Canist/rs
)s mentioned aboveJ these can be purchased with cash at any gas supply shop.
This is the least e7pensive and most controlled way to supply +A1. The only
downside is that there is a high up front cost and a few calculations are re@uired
to determine how to setup the system and output +A1 at the proper rate. The
details of the setup will vary based on your e@uipment but there are a few basic
components you will need to use this method. The first is a tank. Tanks must be
refitted with new seals periodically. -enerally a gas supply will e7change your
canister with another that has a similar amount of time left on it rather than fill
the canister on the spot.
In addition to the canister itself you will need a solenoid switch to allow you to
use a timer to control when the tank releases gas and when it does not. )
regulator is needed to regulate the pressure to a lower and fi7ed pressure that
won#t damage your other e@uipment. To the output of the regulator you will
need a flow meter with needle valve. Gsually this will consist of a tube with
increment markings and a little ball that raises to show you how much +A1 is
flowing through the flowmeter. This allows you to fine tune the output of your
+A1 system. :inally you will need plastic tubing with holes in it in order to
actually distribute the +A1 around the grow area. 'emember +A1 is heavier
than air and will fall downward when released out of the tube. This means you
should position the tubing above your plants.
(ou can purchase all of these components aside from the cannister as kits sold
for hydroponics. :ollow the directions that come with the kit to set your timer,
flowmeter, and regulator.
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Cr/atin! Your +o8/8ad/ CO% G/n/rator
Introducing your very own home*made +A1 generatorJ The 0ugar Hucket.
Mat/ria)s 2/Duir/d7
6?lb. white sugar
5 gallon clean bucket $Flid
/ 6F1 gallons of water
) piece of toast browned and hard
) table spoon of dry active yeast =for baking bread>
:irst boil the water, =this will ensure clean water> remove from the heat and add
the sugar. 0tir until sugar dissolves. ;et cool until water is room temperature=if
you don#t let it cool down it won#t work>.
)fter the sugar water has cooled, float the piece of toast on top of the water.
Dow, empty the tablespoon of yeast over the toast. )fter a few days, the yeast
will take over the toast and start making bubbles =+A1> in the bucket. )fter a
week, the amount of bubbling =+A1> will increase.
Eeep the lid airtight on the bucket. +A1 travels up the dispersion tubing, and
due to it being heavier than air, falls directly onto your plants. Timing your
e7haust, is essential in maintaining an effective level of +A1.
Not/7 Us/ a CO% ana),sis 9it to "/)- 8ana!/>/4"aust ti8in! /tc?C and
8aintainC an o-ti8u8 )/0/) o6 around 1.**55M.
Bus"i/rC Mor/ 5roducti0/ 5)ants
) cool method to get bushier, more productive plants is to trim the uppermost
growing tip of the plant after it has produced three sets of Mtrue leaves.N True
leaves are those that have the serated edges and overall growth patten
characteristic of mariuana plants. Gsing a small pair of steriliBed scissors, cut
the uppermost growth tip. In a few days, a dual set of leaves will develop from
the cut tip. To create even bushier growth, you can cut the tips of these two
694
new sets.
The result of these accumulated first and second rounds of cuts will be to
produce four sub*main branches where only one vertical growing tip would have
naturally otherwise been. This changes the shape of the plant from the natural
+hristmas tree shape with one main vertical stem and several side stems
beneath it to a more horiBontal shape that has several sub*main stems. !lants
that are properly MtoppedN will be shorter, wider, and more productive than
those that are untopped and left to grow in a natural way.
+/a)in! <ib/s U Music to En"anc/ Gro$t"
In 1??/ there was an )merican botonology researcher named Eathy +reath.
Eathy published an article on a 2&'( interesting study she did. The study
695
included her research on the effects of music on the germination of seeds.
)ccording to the article, 8r. +reath e7perimented by playing different genres of
music in her research gardens where Bucchini seeds and okra were being
grown.
The research found that seeds had higher germination rates and germinated
faster when Mgentle flute musicN was provided to the germinating seeds for a
few hours a day, as compared to other tye of music or noise. $e recommend
you play some Hach, the plants love the soothing gentle vibes"
'ecent research in a study done at the Gniversity of )riBona published by 8r.
+reath also indicated that plants grow better and produce more when they are
given Menergy healingN techni@ues and other Dew )ge type interventions along
these lines. There was also a study done by a scientist over the course of a year.
$hat he basically did was plant two trees in his yard. &very day the scientist
would wake up, go outside into his garden, and put his palms up to the plants.
:or the plant on the left =!lant V6> he would send it hate energy. He would
think terrible dark, angry, negative, hateful to7ic thoughts. :or the plant on his
right =!lant V1> he would love it with all his heart, sending it healing loving
energy, thinking thoughts of adoration, praise, healing, love, light etc. )fter a
few months of doing this the plant on the left =!lant V6> that had received the
hateful negative energy withered and died, whereas the plant on the right =!lant
V1> that received the loving healing energy :;AG'0IH&8. In fact it grew at an
);)'.ID- rate.
There was also a similar study done on human babies=thank goodness cruel
inhuman scientific studies cannot be done like this anymore>. $hat basically
occurred was they deprived babies of human affection, love, and touch, but
supplied them with all the biological needs=air, warmth, water, nutrient rich food
etc> in order to grow. $hat happened is the babies that were deprived of
human Mlove energyN literally shriveled up and died of grief" How terrible. An
the other hand, the babies that received the loving energy from the female
nurses F doctors and their own parents were cheerful, happy, and healthy and
grew ust fine.
696
0o keep your plants away from that blaring punk rock, play some calming flute
symphonies or Hach during germination, feed your seeds and seedlings the right
formulas, and send some healing vibes to your plants to enoy better
germination rates, faster growth rates, and greater yields"
(i)icon
0ilicon is a cool little trick many growers implement. )lthough silicon has not
been recogniBed as an essential element for higher plants, its beneficial effects
have been shown in many plants. 0ilicon is abundant in all field grown plants,
but it is not present in most hydroponic solutions. 0ilicon has long been
recogniBed as particularly important to rice growth, but a recent study indicated
that it may only be important during pollination in rice. The beneficial effects of
silicon =0i> are twofoldO 6> it protects against insect and disease attack, and 1> it
protects against to7icity of metals. :or these reasons, you can add silicon =about
?.6 m.> to nutrient solutions for all plants unless the added cost outweighs its
advantages.
Or!anic B/rti)i=/r (u-/r Gro$ T/a
Ane great secret to e7plode growth and increase potency that is used by many
elite growers today is to make an organic purified water fertiliBer MteaN. To make
a teabag fill a pillowcase with llama manure and sheep manure. This is an
ID+'&8IH;& vegetative growth mi7 that will supercharge your plants with a
whole range of essential enhancing nutrients.
0oak your tea bag inside a big container of water for several days, and the end
result will be an organic super tea fertiliBer water packed with nutrients for your
plants.
:or flowering you will use the same above method but this time use bat guano
and llama manure. This will grow unbelievable buds like you have never seen
before due to their high phosphorus and potassium content.
(ou will want to purchase a pump that will keep your organic fertiliBer tea well*
mi7ed and emulsified during the entire process. This will plug into your garden
697
hose and on the other end of it attach a water wand. )dd also a breaker head
to the end of your water wand, this will add air to your water mi7, o7ygenating
the water ust before it is supplied to your plants.
5ositi0/ 5/sts
) really awesome classic grower trick is to introduce what is known as
Mpositive pestsN into your grow room. These buggers will only feast on
known enemies of cannabis plants. The most useful commonly used
positive pest is to release ladybugs into your environment. They will feast
and be on the prowl for aphids. $hen ready to remove them, ust vacuum
them up and store them in the fridge in a plastic baggie" 8on#t worry * it
wont hurt them.
Bo)air B//din!
:olair feeding has to be one of the easiest ways of increasing yield, growth
speed, and @uality in a well vented grow space. )s the plant ages it#s roots
become less and less effective at bringing nutrients to the plant. (ou may
decide to start foliar feeding at this time, that is, spraying a nutrient solution
directly onto the leaves. The leaves can absorb nutrients ust as well as the
roots can. If you do desire to foliar feed than back off the fertiliBer to half
strength.
698
!lants need to be regularly sprayed andFor misted. !lants do and will feed off of
nutrients supplied to their leaves with a nutrient solution mi7ture. :oliar feeding
can give your plants a @uick boost for a bigger, better, and overall higher
yielding harvest. :oliar spraying will not replace your regular program of root
feeding, but this techni@ue will supply valuable supplementary nutrients to
plants @uickly and efficiently. :oliar feeding is a process of spraying the fertiliBer
directly onto the plants leaves. :oliar :eeding provides nutrients through the
foliage, or leaves of a plant. -rowers, with the help of scientists, and
researchers, have been studying foliar feeding and have incorporated it into
their growing programs for many years.
'egular spraying helps to feed the plant through its QstomataQ, as well as
feeding the plant with direct e7posure to nutrients, regular spraying also help to
keep these stomata clean and open. 0tomatas are the microscopic openings
between two adacent guard plant cells. +hanges in the water content of the
guard and subsidiary cells cause the stomatas to open and close in response to
changes in water status of the plant. .ariuana plants carry on the process of
699
photosynthesis by combining together several ingredients in their leaves. 0ome
of these materials are gaseous=carbon dio7ide>, some are li@uid=water>, and one
is energy=light>. If one were to look at the anatomy of a leaf, it would be easy to
see how these materials are brought to the leaf so that they can form the food.
The QstomataQ play a very important role in allowing the gaseous materials to
enter and leave the leaf. Think of a stomata as microscopic pores in your plant#s
skin. $hen a plant needs more carbon dio7ide for photosynthesis, it opens its
stomata. $hen the leaves get too hot and want to release water during
transpiration, the plant once again uses its stomata, this time to let something
out. There are many advantages to foliar feeding. :oliar applied fertiliBers are
three to five times more effective than root nutrition and can successfully
reduce the nutritional stress situations of plants. :oliar applied nutrients can also
make elements, such as iron, available to plants immediately when they are not
available, or in low amounts in your soil, water, or hydroponic nutrient solution.
0o then spraying is also useful in correcting plant deficiency problems, because
of the very rapid absorption of plant nutrients through the leaves. :oliar
spraying applications of fertiliBer will provide almost instantaneous results. The
best time to foliar spray is early in the morning for outdoor growers, and when
700
the lights come on for indoor growers. This is the period when the stomatas
are open. However, if the temperature is 3?Y:=19.9Y+> or above, the spray will
have less of a effect, as a lot of the stomatas are closed. :oliar feeding is
e7tremely beneficial to clones, seedlings, young plants, and all plants while in
the vegetative stage. +lones are not rooted so they need foliar feeding to
develop roots, and prevent yellowing, a common problem among propagators
=cloners>. Ance a .ariuana plant is put into flowering it is recommended that
you eliminate foliar feeding for the remaining of its flowering stage.
$hen mariuana gets hot and dry it secretes resin as natural insulation from the
harsh elements. They secrete this resinous insulation to naturally keep the plant
cool. If foliar feeding is used in the flowering stage, we bring down the
temperature of the plants, thusly resin secretion is less. :oliar feeding should
only be done in the vegetative stage and ceased two weeks after flowering has
began.
701
:oliar feeding should also stop in the flowering stage as nutrients can and will
stay on your floral clusters. Dot a good thing to be smoking once dried a heavy
nutrient infested mariuana. )ll fertiliBers made for soil or either hydroponics
make great foliar sprays, especially the fertiliBers that contain trace elements
=micro*nutrients>. Gsually their mi7ed at half or reduced strength, to reduce the
chances of fertiliBer burn to leaves. ) strongly mi7ed spray and close under high
intensity or strong sunlight, can burn your leaves from light refle7ion cause by
the water droplets andFor common fertiliBer burn. :oliar feeding is most
efficiently achieved with mist*type sprayers. The smaller the particle siBe, the
better the response and the less fertiliBer is re@uired to achieve the same end
result.
An O0/r0i/$7
Gse a fine misting spray bottle.
.ist or spray once a day, early in the day, or when the lights come on.
.i7 root=nutrient> fertiliBers half strength.
0pray the whole plant.
:oliar feed clones, seedlings, and vegetative plants.
+ease foliar feeding two weeks into flowering.
Gse a specifically designed foliar spray with trace elements made for foliar
feeding.
The best temperature is about 51Y:=11.1Y+>=when stomata on the
underside of the leaves are open>J at over 3?Y:=19.9Y+>, they may not be
open at all. 0o, find the cooler part of the day if it is hot and the warmer
part of the day if it is cold out.
Gse a good @uality sprayer ** should atomise the solution to a very fine
mist.
)lways be sure your light is off and cool before foliar feeding" :or e7tra
safety, wipe your bulb with a dry cloth after spraying and make sure H.I.8
lights are raised to a safe distance=double the distance is a good rule of
thumb> to prevent burning.
.ake sure the !H of your solution is between 5 and 9. 1.
To prevent the water from beading up=acting as small prisms> and thereby
burning the leaves, for each gallon made, add half of a teaspoon of li@uid
702
detergent=wetting agent>.
0pray leaf surface * the tops and the undersides * until the li@uid begins to
drip off the leaves. 0top spraying 1 weeks into flowering. Gse sparingly on
bud sites.
8ispose of e7cess spray according to manufactures instructions * home
made fertiliBer sprays will be fine for at least 1 weeks.
0pray one time a week every week, if any white residue is found, rinse the
foliage with plain ph#d water to reduce salt build*up.
$atch your growth e7plode"
T"/ -roc/ss in d/tai)7 -et a good spray bottle and set it to the finest spray.
:oliar feeding should be done between 5 ). and < ). when the leaves stomata
are open. If it is done later than this than the stomata may not be open at all.
The leaves should be misted with the nutrient solution. 8o not drench the
leaves. It is better to feed twice a week than drench the plants once every two
703
weeks. The day after foliar feeding the leaves should be sprayed with water to
wash off any unabsorbed nutrients from the leaves.
%ust prepare a tea of worm castings, fish emulsion, bat guano, or most any
other plant food right for the ob and feed in vegetative and early flowering
stages. It is not recommended for late flowering, or you will be eating the
sprayed*on material later. 0top foliar feeding 1*4 weeks before harvesting. $ash
off the leaves with straight water every week to prevent clogging the stomata of
the leaves. :eed daily or every other day. The best times of day to :oliar feed
are 5 to 6? )... and after 5 !...
This is because due to the cycle of nature the stomata on the underside of the
leaves open at these times. )lso, the best temperature is about 51Y:=11.1Y+>. If
the temperature rises to over 3?Y:=19.9Y+>, they may not be open at all. 0o find
the cooler part of the day if its hot, and the warmer part of the day if its cold
out. (ou may need to spray at 1 )... if thats the coolest time available. The
sprayer used should atomiBe the solution to a very fine mistJ find your best
sprayer and use it for this. .ake sure the pH is between 5 and 9.1. Gse baking
soda to make the solution higher pH, and vinegar to make the solution lower
pH. Its better to spray more often and use less, than to drench the plants
infre@uently. Gse a wetting agent to prevent the water from beading up, and
thereby burning the leaves as they act as small prisms. .ake sure you dont
spray a hot bulb and better yet, spray only when the bulb has cooled.
!erhaps the best foliar feeding includes using seltBer water and plant food at the
same time. This way, +A1 and nutrients are feed directly to the leaves in the
same spray.
:oliar feeding is recogniBed in most of the literature as being a good way to get
nutrients to the plant later when nutrient lockup problems could start to reduce
intake from the roots.
'A2NING7 It is i8-ortant to $as" )/a0/s t"at ar/ "ar0/st/d b/6or/
t"/, ar/ dri/dC i6 ,ou int/nd to /at t"/8C sinc/ t"/, 8a, "a0/ nitrat/
sa)ts on t"/8.
704
Abserve e7treme caution while foliar feeding any plants around e7posed lamps.
Turn off any fans and ventilation while spraying the plants, any water blown
onto an e7posed, burning lamp can cause it to e7plode in your face. He safe.
Bo)iar B//din! Outdoor 5)ants
(ou can foliar feed outdoors, but go easy"
Into %* !a))ons o6 $at/r -ut7
6 cup ammonia, yep plain old household ammonia
*6 cup alfalfa tea
*6F/ cup Ivory li@uid dish soap
*69 AB. apple uice
(ou can e7periment with other things like fish emulsion, but this recipe is great
because it#s so cheap and e7tremely effective.
705
A))otro-ic C/))
'esearch conducted in the GE showed increases in yields. It is a colloidal silver
rod that generates a @uantum field which makes the nutrients more easily
assimilated. How it works is basically thisJ water contains unpaired electrons
available to bond. These electrons bond with the nutrients and the other
hydrogen molecules in the water. The allotropic cell e7cites the H1A molecules
causing the hydrogen bonds with o7ygen to break, permitting it to attach to
nutrient molecules making them more easily absorbed by the roots. This
process is always occurring with the @uantum field accelerating the process.
+olloidal silver also helps inhibit bacterial growth.
Gro$t" +or8on/s Bor En"ancin! Gro$t"
Hormones are organic molecules which can have influence on the physiology of
plants and animals. !lants produce hormones themselves naturally, but when
selected hormones are added in low concentrations, they can have a positive
influence on the physiology of plants.
6. Transport is not necessarily needed to let hormones work.
1. The effect of hormones depends on concentration and sensitivity of the
plants.
T"/ b/st und/rstood "or8on/s ar/7
)u7ine
-ibberellic acid
+ytokinine
&thylene
)bscisine
Au4in/7 The most important areas in a plant where they are produced are
young leaves, young seeds, pre*flowering buds and the stem.
)u7ine has a positive influence on cell stretching, cambium activity, and
bud formation.
)u7ine is transported to the lower parts of the plant by chlorophyll cells
706
=parenchymcells>.
)u7in transport goes very slowly c 6cmFhour.
Transporting )u7ine costs a lot of energy.
Inactivation of )u7ine happens when it binds with sugars andFor
o7idation.
$hen you top your plant, the roots of your plant will grow a lot slower. $hen
you add e7tra au7ine, the roots will grow again and form new roots. This is why
au7ine is a maor ingredient in root stimulators. )u7ine works better in
conunction with +ytokinine.
Gibb/r/))ic Acid7 .ostly produced in young leaves, but roots also produce it. It
is transported from the roots to the leaves and branches. $hen -ibberellic acid
is added to the roots, it will suppress the formation of lateral roots, but the cell
stretching of the other parts of the plant will speed up and be more e7cessive.
-ibberellic acid can germinate seeds faster, and a higher P of female seeds will
be produced=feminiBed seeds>. He careful thoughO too much -iberellic acid is
not healthy.
C,to9inin/7 +oncentration of +ytokinene is highest in young plant material
=leaves and roots>.
It activates cell stretching, triggers flowering and germination. 0lows the aging
of plants, and protects membranes against o7idation. $hen the concentration of
+ytokinine and )u7ine is high, it will develop buds, stems and leaves. If the
concentration is low, complete plants will form. $hen there is less +ytokinine
than au7ine, roots will develop. High +ytokine concentrations will transport
products of assimilation.
Inactivation of this hormone happens when it binds with sugars or
because of o7idation.
The QglucosidesQ of +ytokinine could be a buffering and transportation
form for the plant.
Et",)/n/7 :ormed within the plant, but is also produced by fungus and
bacteria. Hiological activity within the planting medium can regulate amounts of
707
this hormone, and have an influence on your plants. Transport happens because
of the intercellular spaces.
Inactivation caused by o7idation.
&thylene can also be given to the atmosphere as a gas
Dormally, &thylene production will slow down cell stretching and thicken
the roots and stem =germination>
Too much &thylene can deform and even kill your plants. :or instance,
when the roots are in too much water, the production of &thylene will
almost stop, but so is the ability to gas it off to the atmosphere. If this
happens, leaves will turn chlorotic =eventually leaf death>, stems will
stretch, and there will be an increased susceptibility to attack by diseases.
Abscisin/ Acid7
0lows down cell dividing, cell stretching and bud formation.
)bscisine acid is an antagonist of -ibberellic acid, )u7ine and +ytokinine.
0lows down the growing and flowering of plants.
!roduced in older leaves and chlorophyll.
Conc)usion7 8o not start e7perimenting with plain hormones unless you are
very sure of what you are doing" Heneficial hormones F growth regulators are
available in most grow shops.
Cuttin! T"/ ("oot O-/n
I hope you recall reading about the importance of roots
and how they are critical elements to ensure thriving
vigorous plant growth. $ell put @uite simply, more
roots U more essential nutrients U bigger danker buds.
In order to make your plant grow more roots and
&\!;A8& your bud growth, cut the bottom of the
shoot=the base stem where the roots split off> open.
This techni@ue works especially well with clones. (ou
can do this by snipping vertically with a sterile pair of
scissors, very carefully, a small vertical incision that
708
splits the shoot in half. Hy e7posing more surface area this will allow your plant
to grow many more roots, allowing them to absorb even more nutrients.
(ou see, there is a thin layer of skin under the outermost layer of the stem
known as the cambium. The cambium layer is responsible for );; root growth
formation. $hen you split the shoot open via cutting it vertically, you are
e7posing the cambium layer to allow many many new roots to grow, enhancing
your plants growth. )nother wicked awesome techni@ue is to lightly scrape
away the outside layer off the stem to e7pose only the cambium. $hen cloning
and you apply rooting hormone to concentrate here where the roots begin to
form you greatly enhance your root system formation.
Not/7 A)t"ou!" t"is t/c"niDu/ $i)) 0ast), incr/as/ t"/ nu8b/r o6
"/a)t", rootsC rootin! ti8/ $i)) b/ a bit )on!/rC t,-ica)), a 6/$ da,s.
Us/ (/a$//d Bor a Gro$t" (ur!/
0eaweed e7tract is being marketed and supposedly has special benefits when
supplied with iron. The following comments are e7tracted from a gardening
article on use of seaweed=there are various species of seaweed which may differ
in composition that influences biostimulation>. 0eaweed is a rootless plant in the
:ucus family that floats freely or clings to rocks by holdfasts =root*like or disk
shaped plant parts that attach seaweed to rocks but dont absorb nutrients>.
0eaweed photosynthesiBes the sunlight that reaches it through shallow water
and it absorbs nutrients from sea water through its leaves. 0ince the ocean
receives runoff from the entire earth, it contains all known minerals, trace
elements, and vitamins. This primal supermarket supplies a more complete diet
for sea plants than any plot of rich soil or fertiliBer provides for land plants.
0eaweed contains 9? or more minerals and several plant hormones. It is not
however a complete fertiliBer. It has a fair amount of nitrogen and potash, but
very little phosphorus, a maor plant nutrient.
Anly a few seaweeds are harvested commercially. Dorwegian kelp =)scophyllum
nodosum>, a brown algae is the seaweed most used in gardening. Dorwegian
kelp is gathered off the coasts of &ngland, Ireland, Dorway, and both the
)tlantic and !acific coasts of Dorth )merica where it is called rockweed.
-ulfweed =0argassum>, a floating sea plant, is harvested off the coast of Dorth
709
+arolina. -iant kelp=.acrcystis> is collected in the !acific Dorthwest.
0eaweed is constantly worn down by tides and eaten by fish, so it must grow
rapidly to survive. 0tudies at the Gniversity of +alifornia showed that a frond of
seaweed can grow a foot or more a day, given optimal conditions. The same
growth hormones that prompt such rapid growth in seaweed, when applied to
plants as a foliar spray, can increase the rate of cell division and elongation in
those plants. The hormones also increase root growth when applied to the soil
as meal or when seaweed e7tract is used as a root dip.
In recent turf tests at 2irginia !olytechnic Institute in Hlacksburg, plots sprayed
with seaweed e7tract had 95P to 655P more roots than untreated plots. !lots
treated in fall showed a 43P increase in spring growth over untreated plots and
showed 51P more roots.
In tests at 0outh +arolinas +lemson Gniversity, seeds soaked in li@uid seaweed
e7tract showed rapid germination, and the resulting seedlings had increased
root mass and stronger plant growth than seedlings from untreated seeds. They
also had a higher survival rate. 0oaking plant roots in seaweed e7tract reduces
transplant shock and speeds root growth. 0eaweed foliar sprays promote faster,
stronger stem and leaf growth, and earlier blossoming and fruit set when
sprayed on leaves and flower buds.
N/!ati0/ Ion G/n/rator
Degative ion generators have been used for years
now to cut down on odors in a grow room, but
reports are coming in that a negative ion generator
will increase growth speed and yield. Do true
evidence to support this, however it does make
sense, due to the fact that people and animals
seem to be altered in a positive way by negative
ions in the air, so plants may QfeelQ better too. Try
putting one in the grow room. (ou may notice the
buds don#t have as much scent when picked, but that may be desirable in some
cases.
710
) negative ion generator can be purchased for X65 to X6?? depending on the
type and power involved. 0ome have reversed cycles that collect the dust to a
charged plate.
)nother method is also possible by using grounded aluminum foil on the wall
and shelf where the ioniBer sits, in order to collect these particles. %ust wipe the
foil clean once a month. It should be grounded to an electrical outlets ground
wire. If you don#t cover the wall and shelf with paper or foil, the wall will turn
dark with dust taken from the air, and you will have to repaint that wall at a
later date.
Odor E)i8ination
-rowing and smoking mariuana will produce odors. These odors can be strong
enough to attract attention, so it is important to learn how to eliminate them if
you don#t want your grow area to get discovered. 0imple handheld sprays are
available, they are cheap and effective, but for larger gardens one may have to
take bigger steps for odor prevention. (ou can also buy a dispenser that will
spray a dose in timed intervals.
)nother easy method for odor elimination is to purchase some in gel form.
These products evaporate into the air and neutraliBe smell.
(ou can also use filters, carbon being the best, on your rooms outtake to
prevent unwanted odors from escaping. Hut as said before, for larger gardens
more drastic measures may be re@uired. Harvesting is when the mariuana will
stink up the place the most.
In some indoor set*ups a fan can be used to e7tract any unwanted smell away
from the corridor outside. It can be pumped through a window or filter to
another area where the smell will not be noticed. Dot only that but plants love
fresh air and wind, so the fan can do two things at once for you. )n ABone
generator is a device that can be purchased from most grow shops. It helps to
get rid of cannabis odor problems.
711
!otpourri in electric crock pots works well also. )dd scented oils, scented beads,
potpourri mi7es, spices, you can make it as strong as you like. :ill it up once or
twice and it lasts all day.
!lace a small fan with a Hounce dryer sheet laying on the back of the fan, place
the fan near your grow. The air is filtered by the scent of the sheet. .any of you
may know already how well dryer sheets work.
AD) gelFli@uid. Apen container and let sit. 'emoves mild smell for up to two
weeks before refilling with AD) li@uid is re@uired. The gel can also be placed
near a fan. AD) !ro -el is the choice of professionals for ma7imum odor
control" Dot a cover*up or perfume, this standalone smell stopper has almost no
scent of it#s ownJ all it leaves behind is fresh air. &ven when used in e7tremely
odorous conditions, AD) !ro -el removes almost all traces of unpleasant smells.
-lade plug*ins=or other electronic plug*in scent e7pulsion devices>. They work
okay, but wont be enough to cover the pungent mariuana smell alone. ) few
around the house cant hurt, ust change them monthly. Hang some car
fresheners all over the place.
The best defense is fresh air. );$)(0 crack a window during the day, even in
the winter.
+arpet sprinkle and vacuum products. (ou will smell it at for at least a few
hours, good to use when company is coming over. )lso, charcoal for use on the
bottom of soil, to absorb plant odors. Gse an inch or so on the bottom of your
soil to neutraliBe plant odors.
(o8/ ot"/r Duic9 s8/))Abustin! r/8/di/s7
+ook something.
!ine 0ol.
!aint something.
Hrew some strong coffee.
Incense, scented candles.
0pray air fresheners.
712
)dd some of the above to your central )+ filter, or furnace air intake. )lso, dryer
sheets work well in a window )+ units filter. Try these things in combinations
and use often for the best results.
O=on/
ABone is a sensible addition to any large garden. ABone
is one of the most powerful sterilents known to .an. It#s
sole purpose is to kill bacteria, odors, and viruses. .ost
people learned about the atmospheric layer, the MABone
;ayerN that circles our planet protecting it from harmful
G2 rays from the sun. ABone is abundant in nature. It#s
purpose when it comes to growing mariuana is to
eliminate the strong mariuana smell in a grow room or
where it is being smoked.
ABone is e7tremely powerful, but it has a very short
lifespan. )s soon as it comes into contact with the odor,
bacteria, virus etc, they are both destroyed in a process called o7idation . Hoth
the oBone atoms and the bacteria atoms are destroyed, leaving in their place
pure A1, or A7ygen. )ka clean air. ABone, once airborne lasts at the most 4?
minutes. If there is an e7cess amount of pollutants in the air it will degrade at
an even more rapid rate.
ABone generators are the most effective odor control devices available. Ador is
caused by airborne pathogens which float freely and come in contact with our
nasal passages. $hen generated oBone, or ?i comes in contact with these
pathogens one of the o7ygen atoms detaches from the oBone molecule,
attaching itself to the odor*causing pollutant. This process, in essence,
713
inactivates the odor causing particles in the air, leaving clean, fresh smelling air.
-rowers report that a good oBone generator will completely eliminate airborne
odors from the most pungent crops, but will not affect the dried bou@uet of the
flowers.
O=on/ 5roduction
0o you#re probably wondering how the heck you can produce oBone in your
grow room. This is accomplished by using a device known as an ABone
-enrator. )n ABone -enerator is the most effective odor control device available
today. The gist of it is, how our noses pick up smells is when our nasal passages
come into contact with airborne pathogens. The oBone will attatch itself to these
airborne pathogens and destroy them, leaving in their place fresh, clean
smelling air. ) good oBone generator will completely eliminate airborne odors
from the most pungent crops.
Not/7 (a6/t, conc/rns about t"/ /66/ct o=on/ "as on "u8an b/in!s "as )on! b//n
a d/bat/d issu/. But 6/ar not1 T"/ E5AC U(DA and O(+A "a0/ a--ro0/d t"/ us/ o6
o=on/ at conc/ntrations o6 *.1 5arts 5/r Mi))ionC 6or an /4-osur/ -/riod o6 /i!"t
"oursC $it"out an, sid/ /66/cts. Most o=on/ !/n/rators $i)) -roduc/ .*. 55MC $it"
8ini8a) /4-osur/ ti8/. O=on/ !/n/ration is a sa6/ and /66/cti0/ 8/t"od o6 odor
contro).
(ou can either buy an oBone generator or make one yourself.
714
Dan!/rs o6 O=on/
)t low concentrations, oBone is harmless, but at high concentrations it can
cause problems in certain situations. +ar e7haust is the main producer of oBone
at ground level. It#s molecular structure is similar to that of o7ygen, but the third
o7ygen atom is unstable, and readily detaches from the oBone molecule and
#attacks# any structure that will accept an o7ygen atom. This can be harmful to
some organic substances. It#s not only organic substances that are affected by
oBone. Dearly everything that gets in its way will be destroyed" It is highly
corrosive, and can affect everything from metals to rubber. If this gas is so to7ic
that it corrodes metals and rubbers, ust imagine what it does to your lungs"
O=on/ Bacts7
ABone is a colorless gas.
It is a naturally occurring gas.
It does not have an obvious odor=although some say it smells like fresh
rain, or purified air>.
ABone is a to7ic gas.
("ort /4-osur/s o6 r/)ati0/), "i!" a8ounts o6 o=on/ >6ound in so8/
!ro$ roo8s? can caus/ -rob)/8s suc" as7
!ains in the chest.
Throat irritation.
+oughing.
0hortness of breath.
)lthough short e7posures to oBone may cause problems, these should clear up
over time. !rolonged e7posure to high concentrations of oBone can cause severe
damage to the lungs and other parts of the respiratory system, and over time
may have irreversible effects. The more oBone a person inhales, the more
damage is done to their system, and the less chance there is of recovery. !eople
715
with asthma are advised to avoid prolonged e7posure to oBone, as it may cause
an #asthma attack# or flare up problems with their respiratory system. )s an
e7ample to the severity of oBone #poisoning#, the Dew (ork 0tate ABone )dvisory
will issue a warning to people if the level of oBone is above ?.?3 ppm for more
than 3 hours at a time. ?.65 ppm is intolerable for even short periods.
5r/0/ntin! O0/rA/4-osur/7 (our oBone generator should not be pumping
oBone directly into the room. If you are using an oBone generator, us it in
conunction with your ventilation system. This way, no concentrated amounts of
oBone are present in the grow room, but instead having all the oBone flow in the
e7haust tubing to clean the air as it leaves the grow room. !ut your oBone
generator inside your e7haust ducting * most generators are round tubes with
/F9F3Q diameters, designed to work inline with your grow room air e7haust
system. 0ome generators have a control that regulates the output levels =The
generator functions at 6??P output, but this rheostat cycles the onFoff cycles,
much like a microwave>.
This method is the safest and most effective way to use your oBone generator,
but for added advantages, if you divert some oBone back into the grow room it
will help kill airborne substances such as spores, moulds, etc to help keep your
grow sterile and clean. If your generator is pumping oBone directly into your
grow room you will need to have a strong ventilation system to help keep the
levels of oBone from building up to dangerous levels. Having the e7haust air
vented outside is the best solution. )void spending e7cess amounts of time in
your grow area if you are using an oBone generator. +oncentrations =according
to various controlling bodies> should not e7ceed concentrations of ?.6? ppm for
more than a few hours at a time. It is also understood that these concentrations
and below are not suitable for controlling odors. This means that if your grow
room has an odor problem, and you are using an oBone generator, it is highly
likely that you are e7posing yourself to harmful levels of oBone. If you run your
oBone generator on HI-H in a relatively unventilated area, you can easily reach
levels of 6ppm, which is 6? times higher than the ma7imum recommended
level.
716
Acti0/ Carbon Bi)tration
This techni@ue involves forcing e7haust air
through active carbon in order to filter out odors.
This method is highly effective and very popular
and can also be used in combination with the
other methods. These filters can be purchased or
you can find plans to construct them online.
Ideally, you would use your e7haust fan to pull
the air through the filter rather than push air
through it.
717
Conc)usion
I hope you#ve enoyed your ultimate guide to cultivating elite cannabis. I
sincerely hope you#ve enoyed reading this as much as I did creating it. I want
to thank the countless talented growers and influences who have helped,
indirectly and directly, to the publication of this incredible source of knowledge.
It is now up to you, the fresh new aspiring talent, to go develop even more
advanced powerful growing methods to grow some of the finest bud this planet
has ever seen. I#m sure you#ll enoy your own awesome personal bud supply""
This amaBing /1? growing art form is rapidly sweeping the globe, spread the
knowledge and help a confused grower in need" -et ready for the -reen 'ush.
I would also like to thank my 8ad and the countless other souls who have
helped teach me the way of ;ove, !eace, and -'&&D. I have been very
fortunate to have some amaBing people in my life who have shown me how to
give and want nothing in return but the simple oy of unattached giving.
718
I want to remind you that this guide is in no way meant to be the end*all be*all
of growing mariuana. &very day there are hundreds of new tricks, techni@ues,
grow methods, etc, being invented and displayed on forums, books, magaBines
K you name it, in order to further advance the cultivation of cannabis. It is your
ob as a grower to continually learn and never grow stagnate in your grow
techni@ues in order to bring buds to even more unbelievable heights" I hope you
will all keep the riding the uprising wave of -'&&D that is sweeping our globe.
-ood luck tending to your new awesome garden and enoying its# amaBingly
dense, sticky sparkling rich bounty. I wish you the best of luck in all your future
cannabis endeavors"
I#ve taken you from start to finish, from seed to smoke * I hope you enoyed the
ourney" I know it is a lot of information to digest, don#t be discouraged and
take your time. (ou have your whole life to get good at growing awesome
strains, and hey, who knowsJ one day (AG' strain may very well be the ne7t
winner of the +annabis +up.
$hat#s to stop youC
'emember friend.... keep it -'&&D, ;A2ID-,
and full of ;I-HT.
Toke on,
'yan 'iley
p.s. To a)) t"os/ who support !r//n L On/ o0/ and
you haven#t heard yet, there is a .)00I2& global shift
going on right now... tons of incredible people are
getting together focusing their resources and have
mathematically estimated a $orld !eace deadline in 5
years, go contribute guys"" This is e7citing and one of
the greatest steps of mankind that you are a part of and
really can make a difference"
+heck out here and here for more info. ;et#s do this"
719
G)ossar, o6 T/r8s
1#:67 Time normally associated with the vegetative stage of growth i.e. 63
hours of light to 9 of darkness.
1%:1%7 Timing used to initiate the flowering stage of the plant i.e. 61 hours
light to 61 hours darkness.
Abiotic (tr/ss7 Don*living environmental factors such as frost, drought,
e7cessive heat, etc. that can have harmful effects on plants.
Abscisic Acid7 mediates stress tolerance responses in higher plants, is a key
signal compound that regulates stomatal aperture and, in concert with other
plant signaling compounds, is implicated in mediating responses to pathogens
and wounding. In seeds, )H) promotes seed development, embryo maturation,
synthesis of storage products =proteins and lipids>, desiccation tolerance, is
involved in maintenance of dormancy =inhibition of germination>, and apoptosis.
)s well, )H) affects plant architecture, including root growth and morphology,
and root*to*shoot ratios
AC >a)t/rnatin! curr/nt?7 )n electric current that reverses its direction at
regularly occurring intervals. Homes have )+.
Ac"/n/7 0eed
Acid7 a source substanceO )n acid or sour soil has a low !H. )ctive a
hydroponics system that actively moves the nutrient soil.
A/ro-onic (,st/87 growing plants by misting roots suspended in air.
A/ro-onics7 the growing of plants in a container in which the roots are
suspended in a nutrient mist rather than in a solution. The most popular
container for aeroponics is an enclosed )*frame constructed of styrofoam
boards. The plants are placed in holes along the sloped sides of the frame. The
nutrient mist is delivered to the roots by a vaporiBer or by special attachments
available with drip irrigation kits. The mist clings to the roots. )ny e7cess runs
down the inside of the frame, is collected at the bottom, and is recycled back to
the nutrient reservoir.
A!!r/!at/7 medium=that is usually gravel> that is all nearly the same siBe and
used for the inert hydroponics medium.
A)9a)in/7 refers to soil with a high !H. )ny !H over 5 is considered alkaline.
A)t/rnatin! /a67 as the plant grows, in the beginning, every leaf=that is not
damaged> will have another leaf growing from e7actly 63?Y:=31.1Y+> onFaround
the stem. they grow in pairs. when the plants mature, the leaves will grow one
720
at a time. that is a leaf will pop out on one side, then, up the stemFbranch,
another will grow. ie alternating.
A8/nd8/nts7 can be considered either a organic or mineral base.
)mendments change the te7ture of a growing medium.
As/4ua) -ro-a!ation7 is producing plants from clones
Au4ins7 are plant hormones governing many biological processes in higher
plants such as cell enlargement and division, differentiation of vascular tissue,
apical dominance, root initiation and signaling.
HallastO a stabiliBing unit that regulates the flow of electricity and start a HI8
lamp.
B)ood M/a)7 This organic fertiliBer is very high in nitrogen and is very soluble in
water =unlike most other dry organic fertiliBers>. It also contains plant growth
regulators. )ll this together means that its effect is strong and @uick, but its
power will only last a short while, especially in wet weather. $hen applying
blood meal, take care, as it will easily burn a plant#s leaves.
B)osso8 Boost/r7 fertiliBer high in phosphorus that increases flower yield.
Bo)t7 term used to describe a plant that is severely root bound and starved for
light. The plant will grow either straight up or bolt.
Boron7 chemical element, semimetal of main -roup illa =boron group> of the
periodic table, essential to plant growth
Br//d7 to se7ually propagate mariuana under controlled circumstances.
Buds7 The reason this website e7ists" *The part of the flowering female plant
that contains high concentrations of TH+ and other psychoactive ingredients.
Bud /a0/s7 the small leaves that grow in the buds of the plant, usually
covered in trichomes when harvested.
Bu66/r7 a substance that reduces the shock and cushions against fluctuations.
.any fertiliBers contain buffer agents.
Bu)bous Tric"o8/7 spherical shaped resin producing plant hair with no stalk.
Ca)ciu87 chemical element, one of the alkaline*earth metals of main -roup IIa
of the periodic table
Ca),47 the pod harboring female ovule and two protruding pistols, seed pod .
Cannabinoid7 ) hydrocarbon uni@ue to cannabis.
Cannabis7 scientific name for mariuana specifying genus.
Cano-,7 The top branches of a plant, usually shading the lower branches,
e7cept when branch training methods are used. =0ee ;0T, 0+'A-, and 0A->
721
Ca-itat/ (ta)9/d Tric"o8/7 ) resin producing plant hair , high in TH+
content.
Carbon Dio4id/ >CO%?7 a colorless, odorless, tasteless gas in the air
necessary for plant life.
CBD:CBN7 byproducts of the main physcoactive ingredient in pot, thc. these
byproducts are created when the thc degrades, due to over e7posure to
heatFo7ygen=some thc will naturally do this while the flowers rippen>. it is
beleived that they are resposible for the stoney part of the high, and known to
have a direct effect on the physcoactive effect thc has on the QuserQ. it is only
needed in minimal amounts, in comparison to thc.
CBD7 +annabidiol, +H8 usually prolongs the high.
CBN7 +annabin
C/nti!rad/7 a scale for measuring temperature where 6?? is the boiling point
of eater and ? is the freeBing point of water.
CBM7 +ubic :eet per .inute. This describes the volume of air that is displaced
in 6 minute =see ventilation>.
C"/)at/7 combining nutrients in a atomic ring so that it is easy for plant to
absorb.
C")oro-",))7 the green pigment in leaves. +hlorophyll pigment is produced in
the chloroplasts of leaf, stem and flower cells. +hlorophyll pigment dominates all
other pigments present including the 7anthophylls and carotenes. +hlorophyll
captures the sun#s energy which is used to manufacture sugar from carbon
dio7ide and water. +hlorophylls are constantly being Qused upQ and thus are
continually manufacture by the plant, provided the environmental conditions are
appropriate.
C")orosis7 the condition of a sick plant with yellowing leaves due to inade@uate
formation of +hlorophyll, +hlorosis is caused by a nutrient deficiency ,usually
iron or imbalanced !H .
C)onin!7 the process of replicating female plants. +loning -uide, with pics
CO% Enric"8/nt7 adding +A1 to the atmosphere of a grow room to speed
growth.
Co)a7 a mariuana flower top.
CB7 +ompact :lourescent ;ighting
Co8-ost7 a mi7ture that consists largely of decayed organic matter and is used
for fertiliBing and conditioning land
Co8-ostin!7 The process by which organic materials mi7ed together in
722
specific conditions create a nutrient*rich medium.
Cot,)/don7 The first leaf or one of the first pair or whorl of leaves developed
by the embryo of a seed plant small round leaves that are the first to appear on
a small seedling, they are not considered true leavesC and often fall off of the
plant early in the growth stage.
Cubic B//t7 length 7 width 7 height
Cubic B//t 5/r Minut/7 how many cubic feet = 6:T76:T76:T > a fan can
replace per minute
Cur/7 to prepare or alter especially by chemical or physical processing for
keeping or use
Curin!7 !rocess of placing the dried harvest in tightly sealed, sterile, ar, which
should be stored in a dry, dark, cool place. Then according to preference open
the ar for a certain amount of time everyday to release co1 and moisture and
this slowly dries the crop, thus improving taste and over all @uality.
Cuttin!7 a plant section originating from stem, leaf, or root and capable of
developing into a new plant. 0ometimes the easiest =and fastest> way to grow a
new plant is not from seed, but ase7ually from cuttings. +uttings are taken from
roots, stems, or leaves and encouraged to regenerate by providing ideal
growing conditions and =oftentimes> applying rooting hormones. Gnlike plants
started from seed, a plant grown from a cutting will have e7actly the same
characteristics of the parent plant =0ee )lso * +loning>
DC >dir/ct curr/nt?7 an electric current flowing in one direction only and
substantially constant in value ** abbreviation 8+.
D/carbo4,)ation7 This occurs after buds are harvested and during the curing
process. The TH+ loses a +A1 molecule, which then makes the TH+
psychoactive. This process is why drying and curing buds after harvest is crucial
to the high that the bud produces.
D//- 'at/r Cu)tur/7 easy system of hydroponics with fairly low maintenance
L materials with e7cellent results.
Dio/cious7 having male reproductive organs in one individual and female in
another.
Di-)oid7 contains 1 sets of chromosomes
Do)o8it/7 a mineral +a.g=+A4>1 consisting of a calcium magnesium carbonate
found in crystals and in e7tensive beds as a compact limestone
Dri- in/7 a line around a plant directly under its outermost branches where
roots seldom e7ceed beyond
723
Dri- (,st/87 very efficient watering system where the water is regulated at
the emitters for a regulated drip
Dr, Ic/7 solidified carbon dio7ide, when dry ice warms it releases +A1
Dr, (oi) 5oc9/t7 a portion of the soil that does not absorb water , wetting
agents are often used as a remedy
E)/ctrica) Conducti0it,7 &F+
E8it7 give off or out =as light>
E-so8 (a)ts7 a bitter colorless or white crystalline salt .g0A/j5H1A that is a
hydrated magnesium sulfate
EDuino47 either of the two times each year =as about .arch 16 and 0eptember
14> when the sun crosses the e@uator and day and night are everywhere of
e@ual length
B17 $hen you cross two different strains for the :I'0T time, it is called the :6.
B%7 $hen you cross two of the same :6 hybrid, it is called the :1 generation.
B37 )n f4 comes from breeding an :1 to an :1 =these came from the same
parents and they came from breeding :6s together>.
B47 )n f/ comes from breeding an :4 to an :4 =these came from the same
parents and they came from breeding :1s together>.
Ban /a0/s7 usually located e7iting main stems directly under side branches,
are usually the biggest L very low in potency.
B/8a)/7 seed producing, pistilate.
B/8ini=/d7 bred to support only :emale seeds. seeds which have a higher
likelihood of sprouting female.
B/rti)i=/7 a substance=as manure or a chemical mi7ture> used to make soil
more fertile, the process of union of two subects whereby the somatic
chromosome number is restored and the development of a new individual is
initiated.
BIM7 The :I. techni@ue is where you leave 6?P of the top node on rather than
traditionally to cut at the stem under the top node . )cronym for :bbb I
.issed"C ) variant of the topping techni@ue, where only a portion of the growth
tip is removed, causing an increase in resulting cola sites. =0ee topping>.
Bis" E8u)sion7 This is a li@uid organic fertiliBer with a D!E ratio of about /*6*6
to 5*1*1. It is water soluble and thus immediately available to plants. It is valued
for its high nitrogen content.
BI27 )cronym for :orward*;ooking Infrared, it is a thermal imaging process
whereby differences in heat emission are measured and reflected on a
724
videotape. Heat concentration is indicated on a videotape on a spectrum of light
to dark, with bright white showing intense heat. Increasingly, law enforcement
personnel are using :;I' thermal imaging to detect indoor mariuana growing
operations. However, the 0upreme +ourt in the G.0. has recently banned the
use of :;I' to find these operations.
B)or/sc/nt7 a tubular electric lamp having a coating of fluorescent material on
its inner surface and containing mercury vapor whose bombardment by
electrons from the cathode provides ultraviolet light which causes the material
to emit visible light.
B)oC B)ouroC B)oroKs7 :luorescents come in a wide variety of shapes and siBes.
There are compacts, twist bulbs and circle bulbs. They all work the same way.
They have a starter and ballast which help provide a steady and regulated
amount of electricity to the light.
B)o$/r7 one of a seed plant differentiated into a caly7, a state of blooming
B)us"7 the act of cleansing a plants roots of nutrients and contaminants by
giving the plant large amounts of water =usually e@ual to 4 times the volume of
soil the plant is in>.
Bo)ia!/7 a representation of leaves, flowers, and branches
Bo)iar B//din!7 The act of giving water andFor nutrients to the plant through
the leaves instead of through the roots.
Borc/ B)o$/rin!7 -iving a female plant a photoperiod of 61F61 to force the
plant into producing buds.
Boot Cand)/7 a unit of luminance on a surface that is everywhere one foot
from a uniform point source of light of one candle and e@ual to one lumen per
s@uare foot.
Bun!icid/7 an agent that destroys fungi or inhibits their growth
Ga8/t/s:I,!ot/s7 The gamete of the male is the pollen grain, the gamete of
the female is the embryo sac. -ametes contain half of the genes of an adult
plant and unite to form the Bygote. )fter mitosis the Bygote becomes the
embryo of the seed.
Gar)ic7 !lanted in the same potFarea as your plants will act as a natural
systemic insecticide to greenfly and blackfly the plants absorb it from the
growing garlic it 8A&0 DAT affect the plants scent or taste, can also be used for
same reason with other plants.
G/n/7 a specific se@uence of nucleotides in 8D) or 'D) that is located in the
germ plasma usually on a chromosome and that is the functional unit of
725
inheritance controlling the transmission and e7pression of one or more traits by
specifying the structure of a particular polypeptide and especially a protein or
controlling the function of other genetic material
G/n/tic Ma9/u-7 the genes inherited from the parents of the plant
G/not,-/7 )ll or part of the genetic constitution of an individual or group
G/r8inat/7 To begin to sprout or grow
G+7 -eneral Hydroponics which is a nutrient L chemical product line
Gibb/r/))ic Acid7 ) hormone used to promote plant growth, especially that of
seedlings, and obtained from the fungus -ibberella fuikoroi =-)> is used to
reduce flowering and fruiting which ma7imiBes growth and minimiBes pollen
transmitted. -) is also used in mature plants to increase the fruiting capacity by
stimulating the development of lateral shoots and spurs.
G5+7 -allons !er Hour, how much a @uantity of li@uid a pump can push per
minute
G5M7 -allons !er .inute, how much a @uantity of li@uid a pump can push per
minute
Guano7 a substance composed of the e7crement =poop> of seafowl, a similar
substance =as bat e7crement =poop> or cannery waste> used for fertiliBer
+ar0/stin!O The act or process of gathering a crop
+/8-7 a tall widely cultivated )sian herb of the mulberry family with tough
bast fiber used especially for cordage, the fiber of hemp, a fiber from a plant, a
plant yielding such fiber
+/rbs7 )romatic plants used for seasoning, medicinal purposes, or garnishes.
)romatic herbs are the ones that have fragrant or smelly leaves or flowers.
+/r8a-"rodit/7 Hermie, =both se7es>
+/rt=>+=?7 a unit of fre@uency e@ual to one cycle per second
+i!" Int/nsit, Disc"ar!/ >+ID?7 a lighting group containing , high pressure
sodium, .etal halide, mercury vapor L halogen
+i!" 5r/ssur/ (odiu8 >+5(?7 a HI8 light mostly in the red spectrum
+ood7 the reflective cover of an HI8 light, lamp
+ori=onta)7 parallel with horiBon, mounting the H!0 bulb side to side
+or8on/7 chemical substance that controls the growth L development
patterns of plants. ) biochemical product of a specific cell or tissue that causes
a change or activity in a cell or tissue located elsewhere in an organism.
+orticu)tur/7 the science and art of growing fruits, vegetables, flowers, or
ornamental plants
726
+u8idit,C 2/)ati0/7 the ratio of the amount of water vapor actually present in
the air to the greatest amount possible at the same temperature
+u8us7 a complicated material formed during the breakdown of organic
matter. Ane of its components, humic acid, provides many binding sites for plant
nutrients, such as calcium, iron, potassium, sulfur and phosphorus. These
nutrients are stored in the humic acid molecule in a form readily available to
plants, and are released when the plants re@uire them.
+,brid7 ) hybrid is a strain made up of two genetically unlike parents, IH; or
hybrid. Aften refers to a plant or variety that has been developed by
interbreeding two or more varieties, species, or genera
+,dro!/n 5/ro4id/7 an unstable compound H1A1 used especially as an
o7idiBing and bleaching agent, an antiseptic, and a propellant =H1A1>, a
colourless li@uid usually produced as a@ueous solutions of various strengths
+,dro-onics7 the growing of plants without soil, instead using a medium like
clay pebbles, rockwool*floc or perlite and vermiculite mi7ture.
+,dro-onic (,st/87 the growing of plants in nutrient solutions with or
without an inert medium to provide mechanical support
HygrometerO any of several instruments for measuring the humidity of the
atmosphere
IB7 )n IH; =inbred breeding line> is a genetically stable strain that grows
consistent. It is a homogeneous strain that shows uniform growth
characteristics from seed
Inbr/d7 =true breed> offspring of plants with the same genetic, breed or
ancestors
Indica7 Indica is a great plant to grow indoors as well as outdoors due to its
low lighting re@uirements and tight internode spacing, also offering resistance to
fungus and pests, early maturation tendencies, and dense flower production.
Indica#s come from colder climates e7hibiting the traits described above by
acclimating to the environment from whence they came. Their stout stature and
e7tremely wide leaflets make them easy to identify. )n Indica generally
produces a hard hitting, tiresome, sedative stone, and will take around /5 to 9?
days to finish flowering.
Induc/7 to move by persuasion or influence, to stimulate flowering by inducing
61 hr photoperiod
In/rt7 inactive, does not chemically react
Ins/cticid/7 an agent or substance that destroys insects
727
Int/nsit,7 the magnitude of a @uantity =as force or energy> per unit
Int/rnod/7 )n interval or part between two nodes =as of a stem>
Int/r0/ina)7 2eins
Iron>B/?7 one of the basic elements needed for plant growth **
Ji)o$att +our7 a unit of work or energy e@ual to that e7pended by one
kilowatt in one hour or to 4.9 million oules
anc/o)at/7 leaf
/ac"7 to remove =nutritive or harmful elements> from soil by percolation b O to
draw out or remove as if by percolation
/!!,7 =0pindly> plant, of a disproportionately tall or long and thin appearance
that often suggests physical weakness. If seedlings and plants do not get
enough sunlight, they grow tall and thin stalks as they seek sunlight. These
QleggyQ plants have a difficult time supporting the weight of the plant and is
easily damaged.
i6/ C,c)/s7 the series of stages in form and functional activity through which
an organism passes between successive recurrences of a specified primary
stage, =seedlingZ vegetativeZ flowerZ harvest>
i!"tAburn7 $hen the heat from a light burns the plant.
i!"t Mo0/r7 a light fi7ture that is moved on a track or wheel for balanced
lighting
i8/7 dolomite or hydrated lime most uses to stabiliBe pH of soil medium
it8us 5a-/r7 pH testing paper triggered by chemical reaction
oa87 medium consisting of sand, clay L silt
(T7 )cronym for ;ow*0tress Training, the techni@ue of manipulating the
branches in order to reduce plant height, e7pose certain branches to light,
andFor distribute hormones to lower branches of the plant to encourage larger
buds.
u8/n7 a unit of luminous flu7 e@ual to the light emitted in a unit solid angle
by a uniform point source of one candle intensity. one lumen is e@ual to the
amount of light emitted by one candle that falls on one s@uare foot of surface
one foot away.
Macronutri/nt7 a chemical element =as =D> nitrogen, =!> phosphorus, or =E>
potassium> of which relatively large @uantities are essential to the growth and
health of a plant. :or a plant, there are nine maor elements essential for
healthy growthJ these are called macronutrients. They areO carbon, hydrogen,
and o7ygen =which are all three derived from air and water>J and nitrogen,
728
phosphorus, potassium, calcium, sulfur, and magnesium =from the soil>.
Micronutri/nts7 There are about eight nutrients essential to plant growth and
health that are only present in very small @uantities. These are manganese,
boron, copper, iron, chlorine, cobalt, molybdenum, and Binc.
Ma!n/siu87 a sulfate of magnesiumO as a O a white salt .g0A/ used in
medicine and in industry &psom salts
Man!an/s/7 .anganese is essential to plant growth and is involved in the
reduction of nitrates in green plants and algae.
Manicur/7 to trim leaves closely and evenly to the buds when harvesting
M/diu87 ) soil or soil*less mi7 used to start or re*plant houseplants, flowers,
vegetables, and other plants
M/rcur, <a-or7 an electric lamp in which the discharge takes place through
mercury vapor
M/ta) +a)id/>M+?7 The .etal Halide is a very good source of the whiteFblue
spectrum of light that is ideal for vegetative growth. .any growers use .H
during the vegetative phase. .H is bright and cost efficient to operate, but not
as efficient as H!0 lights. .ost commonly used siBes are /?? watt and 6???
watt. $orks best when used in combination with H!0 lights. an HI8 light, emits
mostly the blue spectrum L high in ultra*violet rays
Micronutri/nt7 or trace elements, a chemical element present in minute
@uantitiesJ essential to their physiology =0, :e, .n, H, .b L In>
Mo),bd/nu87 a trace element needed for plant growth
Monoc"ro8atic7 having or consisting of one color or hue
Mot"/r 5)ant7 female plant kept in vegetative state for using clones , cuttings
L maintaining genetics
Mott)in! o6 /a0/s7 8iscoloration or spotting of leaves.
Mu)c"7 a organic protective covering spread on the ground to reduce
evaporation, maintain even soil temperature, prevent erosion, control weeds, or
enrich the soil
M<7 .ercury 2apor is the type of lights that were used for streetlights many
years ago. Dot very good for growing because it doesn#t provide enough of the
right kind of light spectrum. $hile they do provide a littleof the blue spectrum,
.2 also produces too much heat to get very close to a plant, and are very
inefficient to operate.
Nano8/t/r7 6 billionth of a meter used to measure electromagnetic
wavelengths of light
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N/crosis7 localiBed death of living tissue or leaves
N/crotic7 8ead tissue
Nitro!/n>N?7 a colorless tasteless odorless element that as a diatomic gas is
relatively inert and constitutes 53 percent of the atmosphere by volume
Nod/7 a point at which subsidiary parts originate or center b O a point on a
stem at which a leaf or leaves are inserted c O a point at which a curve
intersects itself in such a manner that the branches have different tangents
N5J7 The elemental symbol for nitrogen is DJ for phosphorus it#s !J for
potassium it#s E. )ll three of these elements are essential for plant growth and
are considered macronutrients. D, !, and E are the three principal ingredients in
most fertiliBers. The D!E ratio is shown by three numbers, such as 1*6*6, that
reflect the percentage of each.
Nutri/nt7 a plant food with element D, !, E, or secondary nutrients
Nutri/nt Bi)8 T/c"niDu/7 a hydroponics system =D:T> nutrient flow tables
where letting nutrient flow over roots on a schedule = &bb L flow >
Nut/Aburn7 the result of feeding a plant an e7cess of fertiliBer.
O"8s 5o$/r a$7 discovered that at constant temperature, the current I in a
circuit is directly proportional to the potential difference 2, and inversely
proportional to the resistance ', or I U 2F'. 'esistance is generally measured in
ohms =volts 7 amperes U watts>
O-ti8u87 the most favorable condition for the growth and reproduction of an
organism, greatest degree attained or attainable under implied or specified
conditions.
Or!anic7 of, relating to, or derived from living organisms * of, relating to,
yielding, or involving the use of food produced with the use of feed or fertiliBer
of plant or animal origin without employment of chemically formulated
fertiliBers, growth stimulants, antibiotics, or pesticides
Or!anic Nutri/nts7 Datural, non*synthetic nutrients.
Outbr//d7 the interbreeding of stocks that are relatively unrelated *
O0u)/7 an outgrowth of the ovary of a seed plant that is a mega sporangium
and encloses an embryo sac within a nucellus
O4,!/n7 a colorless tasteless odorless gaseous element that constitutes 16
percent of the atmosphere and is found in water, in most rocks and minerals,
and in numerous organic compounds, that is capable of combining with all
elements e7cept the inert gases, that is active in physiological processes
517 )ny two plants you start a breeding proect with, no matter the filial
730
generation are designated !6.
5assi0/ s,st/87 a hydroponics system which move nutrient through
absorption or capillary action
5/at Moss7 The partially decomposed remains of mosses harvested
commercially from the wild. Though difficult to wet initially, peat moss can
absorb up to 15 times its own weight in water and is therefor valued as a an
organic soil amendment. !eat moss is acidic **with a pH of about 4 or /.?** and
should only be used around acid*loving plants or to help lower the pH of alkaline
soils.
5/r)it/7 a lightweight aggregate used as a medium for potting plants, holds
water. a uni@ue volcanic mineral which e7pands from four to twenty times its
original volume when it is @uickly heated to a temperature of appro7imately
69??*65??Y:. This e7pansion is due to the presence of two to si7 percent
combined water in the crude perlite rock which causes the perlite to pop in a
manner similar to that of popcorn. $hen e7panded, each granular, snow*white
particle of perlite is sterile with a neutral pH and contains many tiny, closed cells
or bubbles. The surface of each particle is covered with tiny cavities which
provide an e7tremely large surface area. These surfaces hold moisture and
nutrients and make them available to plant roots. In addition, because of the
physical shape of each particle, air passages are formed which provide optimum
aeration and drainage. Hecause perlite is sterile, it is free of disease, seeds, and
insects. !erlite has been used for many years throughout the world for soil
conditioning and as a component of growing mi7es with materials such as peat
moss or bark. &7tensive studies have shown that the uni@ue capillary action of
perlite makes it a superior growing media for hydroponic cultures.
)mong the many uses of perlite today are propagation and seed cultivation,
plug production and transplants, interiorscape and planter growing, composting.
5/tio)/s7 ) slender stem that supports the blade of a foliage leaf
-+7 ) e7pression on a negative log scale of ? to 6/ of the e7tent of acidity or
alkalinity of a substance. .aterials with pH 5 are neutral. Those below pH 5 are
acidic and those above are caustic. &very pH unit of 6, increases or decreases
the acidity by a factor of 6?
-+ T/st/r7 a electronics device or chemical used to determine soil or water pH
level
5"/not,-/7 The visible properties of an organism that are produced by the
interaction of the genotype and the environment. generally the characteristics
731
the plant shows, mostly 0ativa or mostly Indica traits, although there#s @uite a
lot more that=stuff like tallFshort, wideFskinny leaves, highFlow TH+ content
percentage.
5")o/87 Dutrient conducting tissue.
5"os-"orus>5?7 one of the 4 macro*nutrients that promotes flower L root
growth of a plant
5"oto-/riod7 )E) lighting schedule, it is the number of hours of light and
darkness the plant is e7posed to. Gsually e7pressed as a fraction. &7O 63F9 U 63
hours of light, and 9 hours of darkness
5"otos,nt"/sis7 synthesis of chemical compounds with the aid of radiant
energy and especially light, formation of carbohydrates from carbon dio7ide and
a source of hydrogen =as water> in the chlorophyll*containing tissues of plants
e7posed to light
5isti)7 :emale reproductive organs on a plant. 0een as white QhairsQ at the
internodes on female pot plants from the nodesFbuds of a female plant, also a
precursor to the buds themselves. !istils turn from white to brown as the buds
mature.
5o))/n7 a mass of microspores in a seed plant appearing as fine yellow dust
containing male genes
5o))/n sac7 one of the pouches of a male seed plant in which pollen is formed
5o),-)oid7 contains 1 or more sets of chromosomes =1 or more nodes>
5otas"7 Hroadly, potash describes any material containing potassium. .ore
specifically, though, potash is potassium carbonate derived from wood ashes.
The term potash comes from the process of e7tracting lye from wood ashes in
iron pots.
5otassiu8>J?7 one of the 4 macro*nutrients needed for plant life
5o$/r (ur!/7 interruption in electricity flow
55M7 )cronym for !arts !er .illion, this term is used most in hydroponics to
measure the amount of nutrients given to a plant.
5ro-a!at/7 the breeding of male L female plant to produce seeds
5,r/t"ru87 any of several chrysanthemums with finely divided often aromatic
leaves including ornamentals provide an important sources of insecticides
2/!/n/rat/7 )E) re*vegging, refers to the act of putting a plant back into the
growth cycle after harvesting the flowering buds off of the plant, in order to bud
the plant again or to take clones off of the plant.
2/)ati0/ +u8idit,7 the ratio of the amount of water vapor actually present in
732
the air to the greatest amount possible at the same temperature
2/0/rs/ Os8osis7 a water purifying treatment, by moving of water through a
semi permeable membrane reducing sediment L elements
2oc9 'oo)7 .ineral or rock wool has been used e7tensively in &urope and is
recently finding applications in the G.0. greenhouse market. ;ike perlite and
vermiculite, it originates from a natural mineral=alumino silicates with some
calcium and magnesium> that is heated to 1,5??C: to form fibers that are used
to make blocks or cubes as a finished product. Hlocks or slabs of rock wool are
used e7tensively by hydroponic growers of greenhouse vegetables. 'ock wool
typically has an alkaline pH, is sterile and chemically inert.
2oot7 the parts of the plant below medium level either soil or hydroponic
2oot bound7 or !ot bound , meaning roots have overtaken the maority of the
pot supplied usually resulting in slower growth ) condition where a plant or
seedling#s roots have grown compacted and entwined in the pot and has no
room to grow. This condition results in stunting the plants growth and potential.
The solution is a larger pot or transplanting outdoors.
2oot +or8on/7 a fertiliBer directly targeting root growth
2ud/ra)is7 'uderalis is not a very good choice for flower production, indoors or
out. 8espite maintaining a short stature, growing only one to five feet tall, and
maturing rather @uickly, 'uderalis ust doesn#t produce the yield or @uality one
looks for in their flowers. ) slight light cycle reduction can trigger a sprout with
as little as 1 to 4 leaf sets to flower. 'uderalis spontaneously initiates flowering a
few weeks after sprouting, and will not produce decent flowers unless the
photoperiod provides around 63 to 6< hours of light. &ven then, the yield and
@uality are less than desirable, incomparable to that of the 0ativa or Indica sub*
species.
(17 self pollinated K a hermie.
(ati0a7 0ativa is a hard plant to grow indoors due to high lighting
re@uirements, tall stature, and late flowering traits. 0ativas come from
e@uatorial regions, thus the neccesity for high ammounts of lighting and a
warmer tropic*subtropic climate. (ou can identify a 0ativa by its long, slender,
finger*like leaves. ) 0ativa will typically produce a euphoric, energetic, cerebral
high. 8espite the 0ativa#s climatic limitations, they are truly a reward to obtain,
grow, and smoke. ) pure 0ativa will take 1 to / months to finish flowering.
(a)t7 crystalline compound that is due to different pH levels or build up of
fertiliBer which can lead to to7ic levels L will prevent nutrient uptake
733
(cr//n O6 Gr//n7 a method of growing using a screen at a certain level to
stop all flowering ends of plant at the same level for their ma7imum yield
=confined space, or low lighting levels etc.> The purpose of 0crA- is to
ma7imiBe your usage of the available space and lighting by training the new
growth of a plant into a screen or mesh.
(/a O6 Gr//n7 a method of growing keeping all plants short with the intention
of getting more yield by flowering more plants =in volume>
0econdary DutrientsO =+a> +alcium L =.g> magnesium
(//d7 or )cheneJ a mature, fertiliBed, ovule of a pistilate shell harboring an
embryo capable normally of germination to produce a new plantJ
(/47 The act of determining the gender of a plant by giving it a photoperiod of
61F61.
(//d Casin!7 The integuments of the ovule, which are the ovule#s old
coverings, harden and become the seed#s protective coat
(ins/8i))a7 highly potent mariuana from female plants that are specially
tended and kept seedless by preventing pollination in order to induce a high
resin content
(/-a)7 0epals are components of the caly7. ;ocated at the base of the flower,
these modified leaves usually function as protection for the petals while in bud
stage. Accasionally, sepals will be colored, but they are usually green
(oi))/ss Mi47 a growing medium containing mineral like vermiculite, perlite,
pumice, sand L peat moss usually intended for a @uick draining flushable
medium
(o)ub)/7 susceptible or capable of being dissolved in or as if in a li@uid or water
(-ind),7 =;eggy> plant, of a disproportionately tall or long and thin appearance
that often suggests physical weakness
(Duar/ B//t>(D. Bt.?7 length \ width
(ta8/n7 the pollen*producing male organ of a flower that consists of an anther
and a filament
(ta8inat/7 having or producing stamens
(ti!8a7 The sticky tip of a pistil.
(to8ata7 one of the minute openings in the epidermis of a plant organ =as a
leaf> through which gaseous interchange =breathing> takes place
(train7 ;inage, )ncestry, a group of plants of presumed common ancestry with
clear*cut physiological but usually not morphological distinctions refers to the
specific genetics of the plant. &7ampleO $hite $idow, Dorthern ;ights.
734
(tr/ss7 )ny unhealthy stimuli the plant receives. &7amplesO ;ight*burn, over*
watering, nutrient burn. 0tress can cause slow growth, mutations, or death.
(un /a0/s7 )E) fan leaves, these are the large leaves that grow off of
branches, and while not rich in TH+, they play an important role in
photosynthesis.
(,nt"/tic Nutri/nts7 )E) +hemical nutrients, concentrated and industrial*
made nutrients. They have a longer shelf*life than organic nutes, but are known
to nutrient burn a plant more @uickly.
Ta- 2oot7 the root growing vertically from the seed that grows lateral roots
from it.
T/tra-)oid7 contains / sets of chromosomes =/ nodes>
T+C7 tetrahydrocannabinol, a physiologically active chemical +16H4?A1 from
hemp plant resin that is the chief into7icant in mariuana * obtained from
cannabis or made synthetically, that is the primary into7icant in mariuana and
hashish.
b. The main physcoactive ingredient in pot. this is what gets you Qhigh"Q. it is
often=not totally accurately> measured by the trichomes=fairy dust> visible on
pot.
T"/r8ostat7 an automatic device for regulating temperature
To--in! M/t"od7 used to increase yield and ma7imiBe space, by trimming off
the top bud. Traditionally, topping your plant causes two shoots to grow back in
place of the one pruned off, thus increasing the number of topFmain buds
Tota) Disso)0/d (o)idsC TD( 8/t/r7 a meter used for measuring !!. of a
li@uid
Trac/ /)/8/nts7 or .icronutrient, a chemical element present in minute
@uantitiesJ essential to their physiology =0, :e, .n, H, .b L In>
Trans6or8/r7 a device employing the principle of mutual induction to convert
variations of current in a primary circuit into variations of voltage and current in
a secondary circuit
Trans-ir/7 to give off or e7ude watery vapor especially from the surfaces of
leaves
Trans-)ant7 to lift and reset =a plant> in another soil medium or situation
Trans-)antation ("oc97 $hen transplanting seedlings from one place to
another, the roots are often disturbed and occasionally the change in climate
can cause the plant to slow down or appear to stop growing. This is transplant
shock. It is really redirecting it#s energy to re*grow lost roots and to get
735
accustomed to a change in temperature that it hadn#t e7perienced before.
Tric"o8/s7 )E) crystals or sugar, they are tiny, mushroom*shaped capitulate
glands full of TH+ that form on the flowering buds and bud leaves of cannabis.
Tri-)oid7 contains 4 sets of chromosomes =4 nodes>
Tru/ Br//d7 Inbred, offspring of plants with the same genetic, breed or
ancestors
U)tra0io)/t7 light beyond the visible spectrum at its violet end with very short
wavelengths
<ascu)ar7 'efers to the 7ylem and phloem tissues, which conduct water and
nutrients through the plant body.
</!/tati0/7 the growth stage at which the plant produces primarily new green
chlorophyll growth prior to flowering stage
</nti)ation7 +irculating air in order to provide the plant with fresh air andFor to
reduce the temperature in the grow area. )ir movement also encourages strong
stems.
</r8icu)it/7 any of various micaceous minerals that are hydrous silicates
resulting usually from e7pansion of the granules of mica at high temperatures to
give a lightweight highly water*absorbent material is sterile and light in weight
=5 to 3 lbsFft4>. The pH of vermiculite will vary depending on where it is mined.
.ost G.0. sources are neutral to slightly alkaline, whereas vermiculite from
)frica can be @uite alkaline =pH U <>. 2ermiculite is used e7tensively in the
greenhouse industry as a component of mi7es or in propagation. It is usually
sold in four siBe gradesO V6 is the coarsest and V/ the smallest. The finer
grades are used e7tensively for seed germination or to topdress seed flats.
&7panded vermiculite should not be pressed or compacted, especially when wet,
as this will destroy the desirable physical properties.
</rtica)7 perpendicular to the plane of the horiBon or to a primary a7is or in the
upright position
<ita8in B7 thiamine, a vitamin =+61H65D/A0>+l of the H comple7 that is
essential to normal metabolism and nerve function and is widespread in plants
'at/rin! (c"/du)/7 term referring to how often and how much water a plant
is given, usually measured in days and gallons. &7O 6 gallon every / days.
'atts7 ) measure of the amount of electricity flowing through a wire. $att
hours measure the amount of watts used in one hour. ) kilowattFhour =E$H> is
6??? wattFhours.
'/ttin! A!/nt7 a substance that by becoming adsorbed prevents a surface
736
from being repellent to a wetting li@uid and is used especially in mi7ing solids
with li@uids or spreading li@uids on surfaces
'ic97 to carry =as moisture> by capillary action
'or8 Castin!7 =2ermiconversion> or using earthworms to convert waste into
soil additives, is a biologically active mound containing thousands of bacteria,
enBymes, and remnants of plant materials and animal manures that were not
digested by the earthworm. The composting process continues after a worm
casting has been deposited. In fact, the bacterial population of a cast is much
greater than the bacterial population of either ingested soil, or the earthworm#s
gut. )n important component of this dark mass is humus.
Iinc7 is an essential micronutrient for both plants
I,!ot/s:Ga8/t/s7 The gamete of the male is the pollen grain, the gamete of
the female is the embryo sac. -ametes contain half of the genes of an adult
plant and unite to form the Bygote. )fter mitosis the Bygote becomes the
embryo of the seed.
END