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29

History
Although Austrias territorial heartland has always been modest in size, its
monarchy ruled an empire that spanned continents and was once the last
word in politics and high culture. How did it happen and how did it all
change over time? To really understand this, its useful to know more about
the civilisations and empires that figure in its colourful past. Civilisations
& Empires is therefore where this history starts. Afterwards we take a trail
through themes of post-WWII neutrality (Neutral, Nice & Not Guilty),
uprisings (To the Barricades), Jewry (Jewish History in Austria) and foreign invasion of its territory (The Enemy at the Gate), culminating in one
of the worlds most enduring family dynasties (Keeping it in the Family
the Habsburgs).

CIVILISATIONS & EMPIRES

It would be an understatement to say that alpine regions of Austria were
inhospitable places during the Ice Age some 30,000 years ago. They were
virtually impenetrable for human and beast. Its therefore not surprising that while mammoths were lumbering across a frozen landscape, the
more-accessible plains and Danube Valley in Lower Austria developed into
early showplaces of civilisation. A visit to the Naturhistorisches Museum
in Vienna (p129) contains two fascinating stone Venus statuettes that are
reminders of this era.
When the Celts settled in the late Iron Age (around 450 BC) they also
chose the valley of the Danube River and salt-rich regions around Salzburg,
encountering Illyrians who had wandered there from the Balkan region.
Gradually an IllyricCeltic kingdom took shape, known as Noricum, that
stretched from eastern Tyrol to the Danube and eastern fringes of the Alps
in Carinthia.
The Romans, who crossed the Alps in force in 15 BC and settled south
of the Danube River, carved up these regions into administrative areas and
built fortresses (Limes) and towns such as Carnuntum (p178), Vindobona
(the forerunner of Vienna), Brigantium (Bregenz; p368), Juvavum (Salzburg;
p266), Flavia Solva (Leibnitz in Styria), Aguntum (p325) and Virunum
(north of Klagenfurt). However, the Western Empire created by the Romans
collapsed in the 5th century, leaving a vacuum that was filled by newly arriving tribes: the Germanic Alemanni in Vorarlberg, Slavs who pushed into
Carinthia and Styria, and Bavarians who settled south of the Danube in Upper
and Lower Austria, Tyrol and around Salzburg. The Bavarians proved to be
the most successful, and by the 7th century they had most regions of Austria
in their grip, creating a large German-speaking territory.

30,00025,000 BC
The 30,000-year-old Venus
of Galgenberg (aka Dancing
Fanny) and the 25,000-yearold buxom beauty, the Venus
of Willendorf, are crafted
both are now in Viennas
Naturhistorisches Museum.

5300 BC
The Neolithic tzi dies and is
mummified in a glacier in the
tztal. Hes found in 1991 and
several Austrian and Italian
women ask to be impregnated
with his frozen sperm.

Discover more about the

history of Austria from
the Babenbergs through
to the countrys entry into
the EU in The Austrians: A
Thousand Year Odyssey by
Gordon Brook-Shepard.

800400 BC
The Iron Age Hallstadtkultur
(Hallstadt Culture) develops in
the southern Salzkammergut,
where settlers work salt mines.
Around 450 BC Celts arrive in
the region and build on this
flourishing culture.

30

HISTORY The Carolingians Strike Back

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THE CAROLINGIANS STRIKE BACK

The patron saint of

Austria is Saint
Leopold III of Babenberg
(1096-1135).

But at this time it was still possible to talk only about tribes, not fully fledged
empires. This changed in Europe and in Austria itself with the growth of the
so-called Carolingian Empire in the 6th century. This was Europes most
powerful empire in its day. It originated in western France and Belgium, grew
into a heavyweight under Charlemagne (747814) and took its inspiration
from the Romans. Significantly for future Austria, Charlemagne created a
buffer region in the Danube Valley, later dubbed Ostmark (Eastern March),
which shored up the eastern edge of his empire, and in 800 he was crowned
Kaiser (see boxed text, below) by the pope.
Fate took another decisive turn in 976, when the Eastern March landed
in the hands of Leopold von Babenberg (94094), a descendent of a noble
Bavarian family. The Babenbergs were a skilful family who in the 11th century
expanded their small territory to include most of modern-day Lower Austria
(with Vienna), and a century later Styria (1192) and much of Upper Austria.
In 1156, under the Babenberg monarch Heinrich II Jasmirogott, the Eastern
March (still a political fence at that time) was elevated to a duchy (ie with its
own duke and special rights) and Vienna became its capital.

THE EMPIRE OF THE HABSBURGS

The distended lower jaw

and lip, a family trait of
the early Habsburgs, is
discreetly downplayed in
official portraits.

The Babenberg dynasty, however, ran out of heirs in 1246 when one of
its rulers, Duke Friedrich II, died in battle with neighbouring Hungarians
over a border dispute. This had enormous ramifications for future Austria
because it led to the catapulting of another noble family, the Habsburgs,
to power in Europe. In a twist of bad fortune, a Bohemian monarch of
the day, Ottokar II, married Friedrichs widow and in 1273 refused to
recognise the election to king by prince-electors (see boxed text, opposite)
of a another noble whose star was rising in Central Europe the Habsburg
Rudolf I (121891).
This caused one of the most celebrated clashes in Austrian history
when in 1278 the House of Habsburg and Bohemian arch rival Ottokar II
(who also controlled Styria and Carinthia) fought it out on the Marchfeld,
situated 30km northeast of Vienna. Ottokar, held up while trying to
penetrate Drosendorfs fortress en route to the battle (p178), was killed
in battle, allowing the Habsburg family to reign over the Holy Roman
Empire.
That was pretty much the way things remained for over 500 years. Its
only a modest simplification to say that between the era in which mammoths roamed the frozen wastes and the next important change the arrival
of 164cm, low-rise Napoleon in the early 19th century Austria had seen
early human settlers (the ones who carved those Venus statuettes), two major
civilisations (Illyrians and the Celts), one Roman Empire and two families
(the Babenbergs and the Habsburgs) control the land.

15 BCAD 600
The Romans establish relations
with Celts and Celtic-influenced
Noric tribes. From 15 BC Roman
occupation begins in the three
provinces of Rhaetia, Noricum
and Pannonia. Slavic, Germanic
and other tribes later overrun
the territories.

800
The Frankish king Charlemagne
is crowned Holy Roman Emperor. The troublesome Avars
are routed and disappear,
creating an Eastern March
that passes into the hands of
Charlemagnes successors Otto
I (91273) and Otto II (95583).

976 & 996

The Babenbergs are entrusted
with the Eastern March in 976,
administer it as margraves, and
in 996 this appears for the first
time in a document as Ostarrchi.

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H I S T O R Y T h e E m p i re o f t h e H a b s b u r g s

31

AUSTRIA & THE HOLY ROMAN EMPIRE

The Holy Roman Empire was Europes oddest state. Its foundations were laid when Charlemagnes
father, Pippin, rescued a beleaguered pope and became Patricius Romanorum (Protector of Rome),
making him Caesars successor. The title Kaiser is derived from Caesar. Pippin, with Italian
spoils on his hands (one being the present-day Vatican), gave these to the pope. Charlemagne
continued this tradition as protector, and in 962, with the crowning of Otto I (91273) as Holy
Roman Emperor, the Empire was officially born.
Kings in the Empire were elected in political horse-trading by a handful of prince electors, but to
take the next step and become Kaiser (and protector of the pope), the pope had to crown the king.
Depending on how feisty the pope happened to be, this brought other troubles. In 1338 enough was
enough, and the electors threw the pope overboard, deciding they could elect their own Kaiser.
In 972, just before Otto I died, borders of the Empire included present-day Austria, Slovenia,
Czech Republic, Germany, Holland, Belgium and much of the Italian peninsula. These borders
ebbed and flowed with the times. When Rudolf I arrived in 1273, it all or what remained of it
belonged to the Habsburgs.
The Empire was formally buried in 1806 when Napoleon Bonaparte tore through Europe, and
by the time the AustroHungarian Empire took shape in 1867 (a dual monarchy of Austria and
Hungary), it was little more than a dim and distant reminder of medieval times.

The French Revolution of 178999 was a political explosion that ushered

in a new age of republicanism in Europe, and it challenged surviving feudalistic anachronisms like the Holy Roman Empire. Thus, although Napoleon
was soundly defeated in Leipzig in 1813 and, finally, at Waterloo in 1815, his
advance across Europe caused its collapse. The Habsburgs survived, however,
and in the post-Napoleon Vormrz (Pre-March) years, they dominated a loose
Deutscher Bund (German Alliance) comprising hundreds of small states cobbled together in a period of cultural flourish called the Biedermeier period.
Given that ordinary citizens at the time were kept on a short leash by their
political masters, its not surprising that they began to seek new freedoms.
In 1848, inspired by the February 1848 revolution in France, Austrians
demanded their own parliament (p33). One was created and met (without
Hungary, a Habsburg possession at the time, and without parts of Italy that
had been in Habsburg hands) in July that year. But revolution and a democratic parliament failed to endure in Austria.
In 1867 a dual monarchy was created in Austria and Hungary, arising
out of an attempt by the Habsburgs to hold onto support for the monarchy
among Hungarians by giving them a large degree of autonomy. This AustroHungarian Empire would grow to include core regions of Austria, Hungary,
the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Slovenia, Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovine, as
well as regions like the Voivodina in Serbia, and small chunks in northern
Italy, Romania, Poland and the Ukraine.

1156
As consolation for relinquishing
Bavaria, which fell into Babenberg hands after a local conflict,
Austria becomes a duchy (Privilegium Minus) and the Babenberg ruler Heinrich Jasomirgott
(110777) becomes Austrias first
duke, residing in Vienna.

1192
Styria is given to Babenberg
Leopold V (115794) on the
condition that it stays part of
Austria forever. Styria at the
time includes chunks of
Slovenia and various parts of
Lower and Upper Austria.

The roots of Austrias

sterreichische
Volkspartei (VP;
Austrian Peoples
Party) go back to 1887;
a forerunner of the
Sozialdemokratische
Partei sterreichs (SP;
Social Democratic Party
of Austria) was founded a
year later.
Viennas population
peaked at more than two
million between 1910
and 1914. After WWI,
Vienna was one of the
worlds five largest cities.

124678
The last Babenberg dies in
1246 and Habsburg rule begins
when Rudolf I is elected king of
the Holy Roman Empire in 1273;
he defeats Bohemian Ottokar
II in the Battle of Marchfeld in
1278.

32

HISTORY The Modern Republics

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This was the so-called KuK (Knig und Kaiser; King and Kaiser)
monarchy the Kaiser of Austria was also King of Hungary. In practice, the
two countries increasingly went separate ways, united only by the dual monarch and a couple of high-level ministries like war and foreign affairs.

THE MODERN REPUBLICS

The turmoil caused by defeat in WWI, however, brought this to an end, laying the foundations for modern Austria. Austrians demanded a fully fledged
republic, and they got one, ending 640 years of Habsburg rule.
This First Republic was the countrys first experiment with truly democratic institutions, but the stigma of WWI defeat weakened it. Austria,
now reduced almost to the size of the country we know today, lost access
to resources beyond its own borders, which caused economic problems.
Polarisation was another hurdle. This had a geographical edge in Austria:
Rotes Wien (Red Vienna) was controlled by a socialist city government,
while rural regions were firmly in the grip of the conservative federal government of the Christian Socials. Chaos broke out in March 1933 when the
Christian Socials chancellor Engelbert Dollfuss (18921934) dissolved parliament and, in what was virtually a putsch, prevented it from sitting.
Dollfuss sympathies lay with the Italian dictator Benito Mussolini (1883
1945) and the Catholic Church. He banned the communist party and the
pro-German Austrian Nazi Party (this favoured annexation of Austria by
Germany), and when he took up the battle with the Social Democrats, he
sparked the Austrian Civil War in 1934.
By 1936, however, Hitler and Mussolini had created a RomeBerlin axis
and Austria found itself between a rock and a hard place. In March 1938,
Hitlers troops invaded Austria, and Hitler, an Austrian himself, ruled the
country as an appendage of Germany until 1945.
Soviet, not Allied, troops liberated Vienna in March 1945, triggering a
twilight period in which the Soviet Union, Britain, the USA and France
occupied Austria and carved up the capital into zones the famous four
men in a jeep period. It was the beginning of the Second Republic (below)
todays Republic of Austria.
Carl E Schorske magically
interlinks seven essays on
the intellectual history
of Vienna in his seminal
work Fin-de-Sicle Vienna.

NEUTRAL, NICE & NOT GUILTY

In 1948 the British author Graham Greene flew to Vienna and roamed
the bomb-damaged streets looking for inspiration for a film he had been
commissioned to write about the occupation of post-WWII Vienna. As
chance would have it, Greene penned the script for one of Europes finest
films about the era The Third Man, starring Orson Wells as the penicillin racketeer Harry Lime. In a moment of improvisation the end of the
film, Orson Wells as Lime waxes lyrical about how under the bloody reign
of the Borgias Italy produced some of its finest art. In Switzerland they

1335 & 1363

Bavarian Ludwig IV (131447)
gives Carinthia (minus Tyrol) to
the Habsburgs in 1335 and
territories include Austria
(Ostarrchi), Styria, Krain (in
Slovenia) and Carinthia. In 1363
Margarethe Maultasch (1318
63) dies and Tyrol is added.

1517
Theology professor Martin
Luther sparks the Reformation
when he makes public his 95
Theses that call into question
corrupt practices of the Church,
and most of Austria becomes
Lutheran (Protestant).

1556
Abandoning the idea of uniting
an empire under Catholicism,
Karl V abdicates the Spanish
part goes to his son Philipp II
and Ferdinand I gets Austria,
Bohemia and largely Turkishoccupied Hungary.

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HISTORY To the Barricades

had brotherly love, 500 years of democracy and peace, and what did they
produce? The cuckoo clock.
Postwar Austria sought the kind of Swiss stability that makes a cuckoo
clock fascinating. One day in April 1945, at the instigation of the Soviet
Union, the country was proclaimed a republic for the second time in its
history. The constitution from 1920 was revived (in its 1929 form), and
pre-Nazi laws from March 1933 came back into force; free elections were
held in November 1945.
The Soviet Union insisted on Austria declaring its neutrality as a condition
for ending occupation in 1955. At the last minute, though, recognition of
Austrias guilt for WWII was struck out of the State Treaty that paved the way
for neutral independence. Its neutrality differs from the Swiss cuckoo clock
model, however, because Austria joined the UN and has even participated in
international peace-keeping forces. The Second Republic became a mostly
quiet, peaceful period during which the economy enjoyed solid growth or
boom conditions, Austria played a moderating role during the EastWest
frost, and the world forgot about the past.
This silence was shattered in 1986, however, and not surprisingly it was the
guilt question again. When accusations surfaced that presidential candidate
Kurt Waldheim had been involved in Nazi war crimes, Austria seriously
confronted its Nazi past for the first time. Evidence that he had committed
war crimes while a lieutenant serving with the German army in the Balkans
could never be proved, but nor was Austrias elected president willing to fully
explain himself or express misgivings about his wartime role.

33

Hella Picks Guilty Victim:

Austria from the Holocaust
to Haider is an excellent
analysis of modern-day
Austria.

When Governor
Schwarzenegger allowed
an execution to go ahead
in California in 2005,
some Austrians wanted
to revoke his Austrian
citizenship. Austria first
abolished capital
punishment in 1787.

TO THE BARRICADES
While empires waxed and waned, Austria was wracked by revolt and resistance. Apart from frequent squabbles between sycophantic monarchs,
the first large-scale uprising took place in the mid- and late-15th century,
when peasants in Austria (as elsewhere in Central Europe) rose up against
their nobility in the Peasants Wars. These upheavals were spontaneous and
directed at local despots, however, rather than against the empire itself. The
roots of discontent could be found in a need for cash to finance defences
against the Turks, or in some instances demands by an oppressive monarch
during the drawn-out anti-reformation.
In April 1809, during the Napoleonic occupation, Tyrol which had
fallen into the hands of Bavaria was the scene of another rebellion when
innkeeper Andreas Hofer (17671810) led a rebellion for independence. For
his troubles, Hofer was put on trial and executed at Napoleons behest. His
body is entombed in Innsbrucks Hofkirche (see p334).
The next show of strength from the people was the Revolution of 1848.
Austrians suffered badly during the system of atrophy under Klemens von
Metternich, a diplomat who rose to power in the splash caused by Napoleons

161848
Anti-reformer Ferdinand II
(15781637) challenges Bohemias confessional freedom.
Habsburg counsels are thrown
out of a window (the Prague
Defenestration), triggering the
Thirty Years War.

1683
Turkish Siege of Vienna. This
siege of 1683 comes after an
even closer call in 1529 when
Turks were thwarted by winter.
Christian Europe is mobilised
and the threat persists until
1718, after which the Ottoman
Empire gradually wanes.

Austrias greatest military

hero, Prince Eugne of
Savoy, was in fact French.
Refused entry to the
French army by Louis
XIV, Eugne went on to
humiliate him on the
battlefield.

174048
Maria Theresia (171780)
inherits Habsburg possessions,
Prussia seizes Silesia (in Poland
today) and the Austrian War of
Succession starts a European
power struggle between
Prussia and a Habsburgcontrolled Austria-Hungary.

34

HISTORY To the Barricades

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H I S T O R Y J e w i s h H i s t o r y i n Au s t r i a

In the late 1920s and the 1930s, the stakes were raised even higher and, with
the annexation of Austria by Hitler in 1938, opposition turned to resistance.
As elsewhere, whenever Hitlers troops jackbooted over a border, resistance
from within was extremely difficult. Communists and Social Democrats were
outlawed in the early 1930s and fought from underground. Members of the
Social Democratic Workers Party fought a four-day battle with police in Linz
and Vienna before being banned and their leadership was arrested.
The role of Austria during WWII is one of the most controversial aspects
of its modern history. Austrias home-grown brand of Austro-Fascism had
favoured independence, but Hitler was popular inside Austria, and Austria
itself supplied a disproportionately large number of officers for the SS and the
German army. In short, what Hitler and the Nazis couldnt achieve through
pressure, large numbers of Austrians themselves helped achieve through their
active and passive support for Nazism and Hitlers war.
Interestingly, Tyrolean resistance leaders often rallied opposition to
Nazism by recalling the revolt of innkeeper Andreas Hofer in 1809 (see
p33). An sterreichisches Freiheitsbataillon (Austrian Freedom Battalion)
fought alongside the Yugoslav Peoples Liberation Army, and partisan groups
in Styria and Carinthia maintained links with other partisans across the
Yugoslavian border. Tellingly, unlike other countries, Austria had no government in exile.
Resistance increased once the war looked lost for Hitler. The Austrian
Robert Bernardis (190844) was involved in the assassination attempt on
Hitler by military brass on July 20, 1944 and was then executed by Nazis.
Another involved in that plot, Carl Szokoll (19152004), survived undetected.
The most famous resistance group, however, was called 05, whose members
included Austrias president from 1957 to 1965, Adolf Schrf (18901965).
With the Red Army approaching Vienna in 1945, 05 worked closely with
Szokoll and other military figures in Operation Radetzky to liberate Vienna
in the last days of the war. Although they were able to establish contact with
the Red Army as it rolled towards Vienna, they were betrayed at the last
moment and several members were strung up from street lanterns. The Red
Army, not Austrians, would liberate the capital.

The Nazi Era

JEWISH HISTORY IN AUSTRIA

By 1927, these citizens inhabited a very different world. WWI had ended
in defeat and armed paramilitary groups roamed the streets of Vienna
and elsewhere engaging in bloody clashes. A July revolt broke out in 1927
when left-wing groups stormed the Palace of Justice in Vienna. This was
prompted by a court having acquitted members of a right-wing paramilitary
Frontkmpfer (Front Fighters) group charged with killing two people during
demonstrations. The police moved in and regained control of the building,
but about 90 people died in the revolt and over 1000 were injured.

Women in Austria
gained the right to vote
in national elections
in 1919.

fall. Metternich believed in the power of absolute monarchy and his police snapped ferociously at the heels of liberals and Austrian nationalists
in the decades before revolution. This Vormrz era (ie pre-March 1848,
and also called Biedermeier) was culturally rich, but socially the air was
heavy with political resignation and Austrians grew insular. This was about
to change, not least because atrocious industrial conditions were making
the country ripe for change. Nationalism the best chance of liberalising
societies in those days was also threatening to chip the delicate edges of
the Habsburg empire.
The sparks of February revolution in Paris (1848) flared in Vienna
in March, but, reflecting the citycountry divide, failed to really ignite
Austria elsewhere except in Styria. In one ironic twist, a similar revolution
in Germany meant some Austrian revolutionaries supported being part of
a greater, unified and liberal Germany. This was the tricky GrossdeutschKleindeutsch (Greater GermanyLesser Germany) question, and reflects the
difficult affinity between Austrians and Germans.
The rebels demanded a parliament, and briefly they got one in May 1848.
Kaiser Ferdinand I packed his bags and his family and fled to Innsbruck. This
should have been the end of the Habsburgs. It wasnt. Parliament passed a
bill improving the lot of the peasants, and Ferdinand cleverly sanctioned this,
overnight winning the support of rural folk in the regions. Meanwhile, the
Habsburgs received a popular boost when General Radetzky (17661858)
won back Lombardy (Italy) in successful military campaigns.
In October 1848 revolution reached fever pitch in Vienna. Although this
uprising was ultimately quashed, the Habsburgs decided to dispense with
Ferdinand I, replacing him with his nephew Franz-Joseph I, who introduced
his own monarchical constitution and dissolved the parliament in early 1849.
It would only be revived properly in 1867.
By September 1849 it was time to weigh up the damage, count the dead
and, most importantly, look at what had been won. Austria was not a
democracy, because the Kaiser could veto the Reichstags legislation. But
revolution had swept away the last vestiges of feudalism and made state
citizens out of royal subjects.

When the Nazis stomped into Vienna in March 1938, ordinary Austrians
threw bouquets of flowers and cheered. A few days later, Hitler addressed
tens of thousands of cheering Austrians on Viennas Heldenplatz to declare
the integration of his homeland into the Third Reich. For those Jews who
had not yet managed to flee the country, this must have been a depressing moment. Viennas father of modern psychoanalysis, Sigmund Freud
(18561939), had not wanted to read the signs for a long time, but in June
that year he fled to England. The 20th centurys most innovative classical

35

1764
The reformer Kaiser Joseph II
(174190) takes the throne and
the Age of Enlightenment that
began under Maria Theresia is
in full swing. The power of the
Church is curbed, but Hungary
drags its feet.

1793
Following a marriage to French
king Louis XVI (175493), Maria
Theresias 15th daughter MarieAntoinette (175593) who the
French call LAutrichienne (the
Austrian) is beheaded during
the French Revolution. A new
European age begins.

180405 & 1809

Napoleon (17691821) occupies
Vienna in 1805. The Holy Roman
Empire is abolished, Franz II
reinvents himself as Austrian
Kaiser Franz I, creating a
Danube Monarchy. But in 1809
the Frenchman must return to
re-take Vienna.

1848
Revolution topples Chancellor
Klemens von Metternich, who
flees disguised as a washerwoman. Kaiser Ferdinand I
abdicates, but successor FranzJoseph I (18301916) abolishes
many reforms. Austrias first
parliament is formed.

1866
Austria and its allied principalities in Germany fight the
Austro-Prussian War (1866),
which leads to victory for
Prussia and creates the groundwork for a unified Germany
that excludes Austria.

The findings of the

Historical Commissions
report into Austria during
the Nazi era can be found
at www.historikerkom
mission.gv.at.

The Viennese are neither

more abstinent nor more
nervous than anyone else
in big cities.
SIGMUND FREUD

1867
Weakened by loss against
Prussia, Austria is now forced
by Hungary to create a dual
Austro-Hungarian monarchy
(the Ausgleich) in 1867.
Austria establishes a
democratic parliament.

36

H I S T O R Y J e w i s h H i s t o r y i n Au s t r i a

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composer, Arnold Schnberg (18741951), had already been booted out of

his job as a lecturer in Berlin in 1933 and fled to the US. They were just two
of many prominent Austrian Jews forced into exile.
Others were not as fortunate. The Holocaust (or Schoa), Hitlers attempt
to wipe out European Jewry, was a brutal and systematic act that saw some
65,000 Austrian Jews perish in concentration camps throughout Europe. It
ruptured a Jewish history in Austria dating back to the early Middle Ages,
and even today its not really possible to talk about a recovery of Jewish
culture in the country.
The first mention of Jews in Vienna was in 1194, when a minter by the name
of Schlom was appointed by the crown. The very same man was subsequently
murdered along with 16 other Viennese Jews by zealous crusaders on their
way to the Holy Land. Gradually, a ghetto grew around todays Judenplatz in
Vienna (see p127), where a large synagogue stood in the 13th century.
Historically, Jews could only work in some professions. They were seldom
allowed into tradesmens guilds or to engage in agriculture and therefore
earned a living through trading goods and selling, or through money lending, which explains many of the clichs of the past and present. Two libels
in the Middle Ages made life difficult for Jews. One of these was the host
desecration libel, which accused Jews of desecrating Christ by such acts
such as sticking pins into communion wafers and making them weep or
bleed. The second was the blood libel, which accused Jews of drinking the
blood of Christians during rituals. In 1420 these libels culminated in one
of Viennas worst pogroms, during which many Jews committed collective
suicide. The synagogue on Viennas Judenplatz was destroyed and the stones
of the synagogue were used for the building of the old university.

Out of the Darkness

Take a virtual tour
through Jewish history in
Austria from the Middle
Ages to the present in the
Jewish Virtual Library at
www.jewishvirtual
library.org/jsource/vjw/
Austria.html.

Jews were officially banned from settling in Vienna until 1624, but this law
was regularly relaxed. It did mean, however, that Viennas Jews had a particularly rough time of it, and in 1670 when Leopold I (16401705) drove
them out of Unterer Werd, the quarter was re-christened Leopoldstadt, the
name it bears today. They returned, however, and this district remained
Viennas largest Jewish quarter prior to WWII.
When money was tight following the 1683 Turkish siege, Jews were encouraged to settle in town as money lenders. Interestingly, once the threat
subsided from 1718, Sephardic Jews from Spain arrived and were allowed
to establish their own religious community. An edict from Kaiser Joseph II
(174190) improved conditions for Jews and after Kaiser Franz I reinvented
himself as Austrias Kaiser and allowed Jews to establish schools, some of
Viennas Jewry rose into bourgeois and literary circles.
The revolution of 1848 (see p33) brought the biggest changes, however.
Viennas Jews were at the forefront of the uprising, and it brought them

1878
To prevent the Russians
increasing their influence in
the Balkans after they win the
Russo-Turkish War of 187778,
Austria-Hungary occupy Bosnia
and Herzegovina.

1908
Fatefully, Austria-Hungary is
given a mandate to occupy
and administer Bosnia and
Herzegovina, with the
expectation that it would later
be annexed completely.

1914
Austrian archduke Franz
Ferdinand is assassinated in
Sarajevo by a Serbian nationalist, triggering World War I,
which sees Austria-Hungary in
alliance with Germany and the
Ottomon Empire.

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HISTORY The Enemy at the Gate

freedom of religion, press and schooling. Indirectly, it also led to the founding of the Israelitische Kultusgemeinde (Jewish Religious Community), more
than a century after the Sephardic Jews had founded their own. Today this
is the main body that represents religious Jews in Austria.
Legally unfettered, Viennas Jews nevertheless found themselves walking
a high tightrope. They owed much to the Habsburg monarchy and many
therefore identified with it. Many also cherished the freedoms of revolution.
And all inhabited an AustrianGerman cultural landscape. Somewhere in
there, they also lived out their strong Jewish identity.
In 1878 Jewry in Austria was shaken up again by the arrival from Budapest
of Theodor Herzl (18601904), who founded political Zionism, a concept
that brought together the ideas of the workers movement with support for
a Jewish state. His book Der Judenstaat (1896; The Jewish State) would later
be crucial to the creation of Israel.
Beginning with Adolf Fischhof (181693), whose political speech on
press freedom in 1848 helped trigger revolution, and continuing with Herzl
and with the founding father of Austrian social democracy, Viktor Adler
(18521918), Jews drove ahead reforms in Austria and played a key role
during the Rotes Wien (see p32) period of the 1920s and early 1930s.
This, of course, poured oil on the fires of Hitlers ideology. When Hitlers
troops reached Vienna in 1938, Jews were subjected to attack and abuse.
The tragedy was that the Jewish community had contributed so much to
Viennese cultural and political life, and now many of Viennas non-Jewish
citizens simply looked the other way.
The events that followed, culminating in the Holocaust, are etched in the
collective memory of Jews everywhere: the prohibitive Nuremberg Laws,
the forced sale and theft of Jewish property, the die Kristallnacht (Night of
Broken Glass) on 910 November, 1939 when synagogues and Jewish businesses burned and Jews were attacked openly on the streets.
Because of this, today the Jewish community is only a fraction of its
former size. About 7000 religiously affiliated Jews live in Austria, and about
another 3000 to 5000 who are not affiliated with a community. The number
was boosted by the arrival of Jews from the former Soviet Union in the
1990s. For a fascinating glimpse of Jewish life from the 13th century to today,
dont miss the Jewish Museum and the Museum Judenplatz, both in Vienna
(see p127).

37

Hear and read stories

of Holocaust victims at
the website of the US
Holocaust Memorial
Museum (www.ushmm
.org).

THE ENEMY AT THE GATE

The Celts, the Romans and various tribes have all swept across borders at
one time or another to lay claim to Austrian lands. In fact, Austria itself
was originally founded as a border March to keep out tribes (see p30). The
Turkish sieges, though, are the ones that really got the European imagination firing.

1918
WWI ends and Karl I abdicates
after the humiliating defeat;
the First Republic is proclaimed
in Vienna. Meanwhile, the
Habsburg empire is shaved of
border nationalities and Austria
keeps most German-speaking
regions.

1920s
The Social Democratic Party of
Austria controls Red Vienna, its
heart set on Austro-Marxism,
while the provinces are
controlled by conservative
forces.

1934
Austrian politics is chronically
polarised, paralysed by
paramilitary groups and in 1934
parliament is in gridlock and
Austria collapses into civil war
hundreds die in three-day
fighting culminating in Social
Democrat defeat.

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The Ottoman Empire viewed Vienna as the city of the golden apple, but
it wasnt Apfelstrdel they were after in their great sieges. The first, in 1529,
was undertaken by Sleyman the Magnificent, but the 18-day endeavour was
not sufficient to break the resolve of the city. The Turkish sultan subsequently
died at the siege of Szigetvr, yet his death was kept secret for several days
in an attempt to preserve the morale of his army. The subterfuge worked
for a while. Messengers were led into the presence of the embalmed body
which was placed in a seated position on the throne. They then unwittingly
relayed their news to the corpse.
At the head of the Turkish siege of 1683 was the general and grand vizier
Kara Mustapha. Amid the 25,000 tents of the Ottoman army that surrounded
Vienna he installed his 1500 concubines, guarded by 700 black eunuchs.
Their luxurious quarters contained gushing fountains and regal baths, all
set up in haste but with great effect.
Again, it was all to no avail, even though Vienna was only lightly defended
by 10,000 men. Mustaphas overconfidence was his downfall; failing to put
garrisons on Kahlenberg, he and his army were surprised by a swift attack.
Mustapha was pursued from the battlefield and defeated once again, at Gran.
At Belgrade he was met by the emissary of the Sultan Mehmed IV. The price
of failure was death, and Mustapha meekly accepted his fate. When the
Austrian imperial army conquered Belgrade in 1718 the grand viziers head
was dug up and brought back to Vienna in triumph.

KEEPING IT IN THE FAMILY THE HABSBURGS

Really mad or really

handsome? The Habsburg
Johanna the Mad kissed
the feet of husband
Philipp the Handsome
when his coffin was
opened five weeks after
his death in 1506.

Possibly no other family has influenced the European continent or the

world for the matter as much as the Habsburgs. Although its origins
could never be described as humble, the family came a long way from its
Habichtsburg (Hawkes Nest) castle near Basle in present-day Switzerland.
Marriage, not muscle, was the historic key to Habsburg land grabbing. The
Hungarian king Matthias Corvinus (144390) once adapted lines from Ovid
when he wrote: Let others wage war but you, lucky Austria, marry! For the
empires given to others by Mars are given to you by Venus.
The age of the convenient wedding began in earnest with Maximilian I
(14591519), whose moniker was The Last Knight because of his late
predilection for medieval tournaments. His other loves were Renaissance
art, his own grave (which he commissioned during his own lifetime) and
Albrecht Drer (14711528), who he commissioned to work on the very
same grave before he stepped into it. It is now in Innsbrucks Hofkirche
(see p334).
But it was Maximilians affection for Maria of Burgundy (145782) that
had the greatest influence on the fortunes of the Habsburgs. The two married,
and when Maria fell from a horse and died as a result of a miscarriage in 1482,
Burgundy, Lorraine and the Low Countries fell into Habsburg hands. In their

1938
Nazi troops march into Vienna
and Hitler visits his birthplace
Braunau am Inn, his beloved
Linz, and Vienna to address
200,000 ecstatic Viennese on
Heldenplatz. After a rigged
referendum, Austria becomes
part of Hitlers Reich.

193945
War and genocide in Austria.
Over 100,000 of Viennas
180,000 Jews escape before the
Anschluss but 65,000 Jews die.
In 1945 the Red Army liberates
Vienna. Austria and Vienna are
divided among the powers.

1955
The Austrian Staatsvertrag
(State Treaty) is ratified. Austria
declares its sovereignty and
neutral status and a decade of
occupation ends. Neutral status
draws post-WWII international
bodies to Vienna, and the UN
later establishes offices here.

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39

WHATEVER HAPPENED TO THE HABSBURGS?

Theyre still around. Otto von Habsburg (1912) is the current family head, but he renounced his
claims to the Habsburg lands in 1961, a step that allowed him to re-enter Austria and launch a
career in European politics.
Once asked why his name never surfaced in the tabloids, the 90-plus year old monarch replied:
Ive not once attended a ball. I prefer to sleep at night. And if you dont go to nightclubs, you
dont run into the gossip columnists. Somewhat of a sporting man, too, when Otto von Habsburg
was quizzed about who he thought would win an Austria versus Hungary football match, he
reportedly replied Who are we playing?
Most poignant is perhaps a comment by German President Paul von Hindenburg to Otto von
Habsburg in 1933 (the year Hitler seized power in Germany): You know, your majesty, theres
only one person with hostile feelings towards the Habsburgs, but hes an Austrian.

day, these regions were the last word in culture, economic high-kicking and
the arts. The downside was a sticky relationship with France that stuck to
the Habsburg shoe for centuries.
The Spanish Marriage in 1496 was another clever piece of royal bedding.
When Maximilians son Philipp der Schne (Philipp the Handsome) married Juana la Loca (147955; Johanna the Mad), Spain and its resource-rich
overseas territories in Central and South America became Habsburg. When
their son, Ferdinand I (150364) married Anna of Hungary and Bohemia
(150347), fulfilling a deal his grandfather Maximilian I had negotiated
with King Vladislav II (14561516), Bohemia was also in the Habsburg
fold. In the same deal, Maria von Habsburg (150558) married into this
PolishLithuanian Jagiellonen dynasty, which traditionally purveyed kings
to Poland, Bohemia and Hungary at that time. By 1526, when her husband
Ludwig II (150626) drowned in a tributary of the Danube during the
Battle of Mohcs against Turks, Silesia (in Poland), Bohemia (in the Czech
Republic) and Hungary were all thoroughly Habsburg.
Under Karl V (150058), the era of the universal monarch arrived, and
the Habsburgs had added the Kingdom of Naples (southern Italy, including
Sicily). That, unfortunately, was about as good as it got.
The rot set in with the Treaty of Augsburg (1555), which regulated religious
bickering surrounding the Reformation. This treaty stipulated that each
ruler could decide the religion of his or her own region. Not only does this
explain the patchwork of Protestant and Catholic religions today in many
regions that used to be part of the Holy Roman Empire, but it also made a
mess of the Habsburgs because Karl V had dedicated his life to creating his
so-called universal Catholic monarchy. Seeing the writing clearly on the
wall, he abdicated in 1556 and withdrew to a monastery in Spain to lick his
wounds and die.

195566
Grand coalitions of major
parties govern Austria based
on a system of Proporz
(proportion), whereby
ministerial posts are divided
among the major parties. This
becomes a hallmark of Austrian
politics.

1986
Austria confronts its past when
Austrian presidential candidate
Kurt Waldheim (19182007) is
accused of war crimes. Waldheim wins a tough election but
is stained. An Historians Commission finds Waldheim unhelpful but no proof of crimes.

1995
Austria joins the European
Union (EU) in 1995 but because
of guarantees in 1955 to
Moscow to remain neutral, it
foregoes NATO membership.

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The spoils were divided up among Habsburgs. The brother of Karl V

Ferdinand I (the same one who had married Anna of Hungary and Bohemia)
inherited Austria and (yes, you guessed it) Hungary and Bohemia, and Karl
Vs only legitimate son, Philipp II (152798) got Spain, Naples and Sicily,
the Low Countries, and the overseas colonies.
For a succinct biography
of every Habsburg ever
born (including the
current family), see
www.antiquesatoz
.com/habsburg.

Maria Theresia
If Maximilian I was the Last Knight, Maria Theresia (171780) was the
mother of the nation. Thrust into the limelight when her father died with
no male heirs, she held onto power for 40 years, while also managing to
give birth to 16 children among them Marie Antoinette, future wife of
Louis XVI. Maria Theresias fourth child, Joseph II, weighed a daunting
7kg at birth.
Although Maria Theresia pushed through many enlightened reforms, she
was remarkably prudish for a family that had married and copulated its way
to power. One of her less popular measures was the introduction of the shortlived Commission against Immoral Conduct in 1752, which raided private
homes, trying to catch men entertaining loose women the commission
even tried to snare Casanova during his visit to Vienna.
Maria Theresias low take on fornication was no doubt coloured by the
conduct of her husband, Francis I, who was apparently very adept in just
that field. Yet despite his philandering, Maria Theresia felt she should remain
loyal to her spouse, and when he died suddenly in 1765 she stayed in mourning for the rest of her life. She retreated to Schloss Schnbrunn (p135) in
Vienna, left the running of the state in the hands of Joseph II (of 7kg fame),
and adopted a low-profile and chaste existence.
Although the last Habsburg ruler abdicated in 1918, the family is still
going strong in public life (see boxed text, p39).

1999
Austria introduces the euro and
abolishes the Austrian shilling
as its currency, having easily
satisfied the criteria for the
level of debt and the inflation
rate.

2007
A grand coalition government
of Social Democrats and
Austrian Peoples Party is
formed under Alfred
Gusenbauer.

2008
Austria co-hosts with
Switzerland footballs
European Cup.

41

The Culture
THE NATIONAL PSYCHE
Trying to put a finger on the psyche of a country that gave us the likes of
psychoanalyst Sigmund Freud is surely fraught with dangers. As Freud himself said, I know only one thing for sure. The value judgements of human
beings arean attempt to prop up illusion with argument. So what was he
trying to tell us? Maybe that whatever we decide about Austrians on a visit,
some of it will be our own narrative.
Even Freud, though, couldnt deny a few things about the Austrians
mental topography. One is the self-styled conservatism you find in the
deeper rifts and valleys of its regions. On top of this come a few historical
grains that irritate the Austrian psyche. Once upon a time half the world
was its oyster. Now it isnt. But what Austria now lacks in land it makes up
for with a grandiose bureaucracy honed with vigour since the 19th century.
Inside this bureaucracy you are likely to find (apart from the odd grump)
a system of dividing up posts not on merit but consensus. Austrians
see themselves probably quite rightly as more harmony-seeking
than the neighbouring Germans, but they can also be greater sticklers for
convention and public opinion is less fragmented, which has much to do
with the countrys size.
Austrians are self-made rather than born; strikingly New World at
times and also fiercely regional. Along with the national symbols, each
state has its own anthem, which is sung by schoolchildren on important
occasions, and each even has its own patron saint.
The Viennese are different because they see themselves first and foremost
as Austrians. The capital lives and thrives from its Wiener Schmh (Vienna
humour), a concoction of morbid, wry, misanthropic wit, personified by
dead rock singer Falco (p49). Some of the local Vienna Actionism art did
too. Maybe its also why one of Freuds most important works is his Jokes

In Austria, everyone
becomes what they
are not.
COMPOSER GUSTAV MAHLER

The Austrian Federal

Governments official
website www.austria
.gv.at has plenty of
information on the
countrys political
situation in English.

DOS & DONTS

Austria is a society of politeness; to ignore the rules is the height of rudeness. Stick to the following dos and donts and youll do just fine:
Do greet people with Grss Gott or Guten Tag, whether it be in a social setting, shop, caf,
restaurant or information office. Servus is reserved for greetings only between friends or the
younger generation. When departing, Auf Wiedersehen or Auf Wiederschauen is appropriate.
Do shake hands when introduced to someone, even in younger, informal company. Likewise,
shake hands when you leave.
Do introduce yourself at the start of a phone call by giving your name.
Do dress up if going to the opera, theatre or a top restaurant. A jacket and tie for men is the
norm.
Do use full titles at the beginning of formal meetings; Herr for men and Frau for women is the
minimum required. If you speak German, always use the Sie form with the older generation
and on the telephone; its not so common with the younger generation.
Dont cross at the traffic lights when the figure is red, even when there is no traffic in sight.
Austrians rarely do it, and the cops can instantly fine you for jaywalking.
Dont strip off or go topless at every beach in Austria. Nude bathing is limited to areas with
FKK signs and if no-one else is going topless at other beaches, you shouldnt either.

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and their Relation to the Unconscious. All very serious stuff, of course. But
it also happens to be a fine collection of Schmh.

LIFESTYLE
A 2007 survey showed
Austrians ranked health,
a good marriage and
good friends as most
important for happiness.
Hairdressers were the
happiest employees.

National service is still

compulsory for males in
Austria, who can either
serve their time in the
military or perform civil
service duties.

With their high material standard of living, a spectacular landscape on the

doorstep lending itself to skiing, hiking and extreme sports, and its exciting
cultural metropolises, Austrians enjoy a quality of life that is the envy of other
Europeans. The Viennese lifestyle brings the excitement and perks of a big
city at a pace that is more relaxed than in most other European capitals. This
shows in the favoured Viennese pastime of enjoying a beer, wine or coffee
with friends in one of the capitals many bars, restaurants or coffee houses.
Vienna is also a magnet for artists, students and professionals from all over
Austria, who go there to live and work, but return to their homes in the
provinces regularly for a shot of country life.
The roots of tradition still reach down deep into Austrian soil outside
the cities, so sometimes Austrians live up admirably to bizarre images the
world has of them. Women can still be seen in the Dirndl (a full, pleated
skirt) with tight bodice, worn with traditional apron, bonnet, and blouse with
short, puffed sleeves. Men, meanwhile, can be founding drinking a beer or
wine in collarless loden jackets, green hats, wide braces and shorts or knee
breeches. In early summer, hardy herders plod to alpine pastures with their
cattle and live in summer huts while tending their beasts. Austria also has
lots of traditional festivals.
All this is packed into in a small country with the fifth-highest standard
of living in the EU and the 10th in the world in terms of earnings and purchasing power. Its coupled with a generous system of social security and
healthcare funded by a percentage on the pay packet, and Austrians are also
among the best educated in the world; 98% of the population (aged 15 and
above) is literate.

ECONOMY

If you want to abolish

Austrian capitalism, first
you have to create it.
HANNES ANDROSCH, BUSINESSMAN
AND POLITICIAN

When Soviet tanks rolled into Austria in 1945, the government nationalised many of its industries to prevent them from takeover or wholesale
dismantling and transportation to Siberia as war reparations. Since the
1990s, Austrians have watched the pendulum swing back and privatisation
is bringing the country into line with current trends. Since joining the EU
in 1995, it has also liberalised sectors such as telecommunications, steel
and energy.
Women earn about 26% less than men on average (the biggest gap in the
EUs 15 countries), and almost half of a persons gross wage goes in tax and
social security contributions.
Although its farms still tend to be of the two cows, three fences type,
it has strong export industries, particularly in chemicals, machine goods,
electronics and steel. Most companies are small or medium-sized, however;
less than 200 employ more than 1000 people. Tourism accounts for about
10% of GDP, and with 20 million foreign visitors each year, more people
per capita visit Austria than any other country. Interestingly, for all this
industrial flurry, the landscape has largely been spared the worst and it is
not a big polluter CO2 emissions are below the Organisation for Economic
Co-operation and Development (OECD) average, and less than half the level
per person than in the USA.

POPULATION
Given the countrys population distribution, Austria might be expected to
tilt towards neighbouring Slovakia. Its two largest provinces are Vienna and

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T H E C U LT U R E S p o r t

Lower Austria in the east, and it is here, too, that most of Austrias immigrants have settled (see p44).
Austria has a population of 8.3 million. On average, there are 96 inhabitants per sq km, but this figure doesnt really tell us much. Viennas density
is well above this figure, while the rest of Austrias provinces (aside from
Vorarlberg) are well below it; Tyrol, with only 53 inhabitants per sq km, is
the least populated.
More females than males reside in Austria; at last count, the population
was divided: 51.5% females to 48.5% males. Women die about six years
later than men: at the ripe old age of 82 compared to the male average of 76.
Based on current projections, however, Austria will have almost 9 million
people in 2050.

43

In 2006 Lukas was the

most popular boys name.
Leonie topped the list
of newborn girls and
other popular names
were Tobias, David, Lena
and Anna.

SPORT
Peer into the pantheon of Austrian Olympic Games medallists and one thing
becomes clear: Austrians are killer-bee at winter sports. Football, however,
draws the largest crowds, and will no doubt be boosted by the European
Championship in 2008. Ice hockey, handball, tennis and motor racing also
enjoy a strong following. Except for motor racing, Austrians participate in
these in large numbers too.
Summer is pretty much a time for niche sports like golf (except for snow
golf), paragliding, and anything to do with running, swimming and windsurfing. With the arrival of autumn and winter, things get going on the pistes.

Football
The Austrian humorist and actor Alfred Dorfer (b 1961) reckons that staging
a football European Championship in Austria is like putting on ski jumping
in Namibia; but co-hosting the championship with Switzerland in 2008 hooks
into a proud local history of the beautiful game.
The halcyon days of Austrian football were in 193132 when local legend
Hugo Meisl (18911937) coached the national team through 14 consecutive international matches undefeated. In 1932 the team lost narrowly to
the England team at old Wembley and in the 1934 World Cup to Italy
in the semifinal.
The national football league, the Austrian Bundesliga (www.bundesliga
.at, in German), kicks off at the end of autumn and runs until the beginning
of spring with a break during the severe winter months. Games are hardly
ever sold out, so getting hold of a ticket is usually no problem.

Skiing
As much a national hobby as a sport, nothing gets an Austrian snorting
more than the whiff of powder snow. Its hardly surprising, because some
of the best conditions worldwide are here. Innsbruck has hosted the Winter
Olympics twice (in 1964 and 1976), and World Cup ski races are annually
held in Kitzbhel (p350), St Anton am Arlberg (p362) and Schladming.
Stars of the Austrian skiing scene abound, and one person who does this
literally is the ski jumper Thomas Morgenstern (b 1986), winner of team and
individual gold medals in large hill ski jumping events in the 2006 Winter
Olympics in Torino. Another, Salzburg-born Hermann The Herminator
Maier (see p44), has achieved superhero status in an alpine career spanning
more than a decade and bristling with medals and cups.
Austrias first true superstar, Toni Sailer, is arguably the greatest skier the
country has ever produced. At 17 he claimed the Tyrolean championships at
downhill, slalom and giant slalom, and four years later won gold medals in
all three disciplines at the 1956 Winter Olympics in Cortina dAmpezzo.

About 600,000 people

play, organise or watch
football each weekend
during the season in
Austria. The Austria
Sports Organisation
website www.bso.or.at,
in German, showcases
all sports.

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SPORTING LEGENDS TO HELL & BACK

In a twist of fate, three of Austrias great sportsmen stand out for one feature: they were badly
injured at the height of their careers and made sensational comebacks.
The Formula One legend Niki Lauda is possibly most famous of all. He suffered horrific burns
in a high speed crash during the 1976 season, yet he was back in his car after missing only two
races. That year he narrowly failed to retain the world championship, losing out to James Hunt
by a single point on the last race of the season. Undeterred, he regained the title the following
year, and proceeded to net his third championship win in 1984.
The somewhat bumbling side of skier Hermann Maier has led to him being likened to Supermans
human alter ego, Clark Kent. However, in the 1998 Nagano Olympics, Maier showed the amazing
toughness that characterises his all-or-nothing skiing style. During the mens downhill competition, he misjudged a difficult curve, got too close to a gate, somersaulted 30m through the air,
bounced over a fence and crashed through two safety nets before finally coming to rest. Austria
held its breath as the man known as The Herminator got to his feet, dusted himself down and
waved at the crowd. He went on to win two gold medals in the next six days.
But worse was to come. In August 2001 Maier was involved in an horrific motorcycle crash
that almost cost him his life. Doctors faced an agonising decision amputate the hopelessly
damaged leg or not. They tried to save it. Maier underwent some painful operations to insert a
titanium rod into the leg to hold it together. His recovery was miraculous; in January 2003, only
18 months after the accident, he went on to win the Super G (super giant slalom) at Kitzbhel
his 42nd World Cup victory.
Thomas Muster, Austrias top tennis player during the 1990s, had his kneecap crushed by
a drunk driver, just hours after a win at the 1989 Lipton Championship semifinal in Florida. It
was doubtful he would ever play tennis again. Images of Muster hitting balls while strapped to
an osteopathic bench evoked admiration and bewilderment among tennis fans. He went on to
become world number one and in the process earned the nickname The Iron Man.

Other Sports
Motor racing is enormously popular as an armchair sport, and only speed
limitations prevent this from spreading to the highways. No Austrian has
roared around the Formula One circuit more successfully than Vienna-born
star of the 1970s and 80s, Niki Lauda (b 1949; see boxed text, above). Off
the circuit, Lauda morphed into a local aviation mogul, and more recently
founded the low-cost Niki airline and a car rental firm.
Gone are the days when Austria could claim a tennis ace of the likes of
the Styrian Laufstier (running bull) Thomas Muster (b 1967; see boxed
text, above), although tennis is still popular, and Association of Tennis
Professionals (ATP) tennis events are held in Vienna, Prtschach am
Wrthersee and Kitzbhel.
Ice hockey is also popular, and Austrias one and only superstar, Thomas
Vanek (b 1984), currently plays in the National Hockey League (NHL) in
the USA for the Buffalo Sabres.

MULTICULTURALISM
According to the Austrian
State Treaty, Croatian and
Slovenian minorities have
a right to place name
signs in both German and
the minority language.

With just under 10% of her population on foreign passports, Austria has a
lower percentage of foreigners than Switzerland and the Benelux countries,
and is on par with Germany. In numbers, that means about 815,000 foreigners. The trend is upward: foreigners have a higher birth rate, and more people
are arriving than leaving. The other important trend over recent years has
been an increase in people taking the plunge to become neo-Austrians (as
the local statistical office quaintly puts it). A good indication of the situation
on the ground is that almost 17% or one in six people living in Austria
have a migrant background.

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T H E C U LT U R E M e d i a

A tiny 1.5% of the population is made up of indigenous minorities, mainly

from Eastern Europe. Most settled in Austrias eastern parts between the 16th
and 19th centuries and include Croatians, Slovenes, Hungarians, Czechs,
Slovaks and Sinti or Roma. A number of traditional languages have also
crossed the border with them; Slovene is an official language in Carinthia
and some town signs much to the chagrin of the populist governor of
Carinthia, Jrg Haider are bilingual. Croatian and Hungarian are spoken
in Burgenland.
The largest immigrant groups are Serbians, Bosnians and Croatians who
arrived in the early 1990s, and Turks or descendents of Turks who arrived
as guest workers in earlier decades, mainly in the 1950s and 60s.
As a result, Vienna has some fascinating quarters such as the 16th
district that are colourful places for a plunge into multicultural life, but
immigration has also produced a backlash. Anti-foreigner campaigns have
been a feature of Austrian politics since the 1990s, particularly by the rightwing nationalist Freedom Party, (FP), which played the anti-Turkish card
with a slogan Home, not Islam during the 2006 national elections, and by
Haider, whose Alliance Future Austria (BZ), a break-away party from the
FP, campaigned on the platform of a one-third reduction of the number
of foreigners in Austria.

45

For a good numbers

crunch, visit the English
and German language
pages of the government
statistic internet site at
www.statistik.at.

MEDIA
Although mass media and press freedom has a long history in Austria, so too
is a tradition of media being concentrated in just a few hands. Austria was the
last country in Europe to abolish its state monopoly on TV and radio.
The state-owned Wiener Zeitung (www.wienerzeitung.at, in German),
first published in 1703, is the oldest newspaper in the world. It is also one
of the dullest and least-read, selling only 22,000 copies of a weekday, and is
a strong candidate for revamping. Der Standard (http://derstandard.at, in
German) and Die Presse (www.diepresse.com, in German) are at the serious
end of a spectrum of about 20 daily national or regional newspapers, but
together account for less than 10% of readership. Kurier has a readership
of about 10%, while the mass-circulation Kronen Zeitung (www.krone.at,
in German) at the low-brow end of the rack has a massive 43% and wields
enormous clout in politics and public opinion.
The TV staples of most Austrians are dished up by ORF1 and ORF2,
the two channels of the public broadcaster. Theres also a good culture
channel, 3Sat, also broadcast in Germany and Switzerland. Local private
channels of quality are still thin in the ether, and many Austrians actually
watch German private stations. The radio landscape has more depth in
the field, although here ORF holds the reins on a swathe of national and
local stations. Hitradio 3 is the most popular mainstream music station,
FM4 serves up an entertaining dish of interviews, some English language
programmes and news reports, plus music beyond the chart staples, and
1 strokes a classic number.

RELIGION
On the surface of things, religion would seem to play an important part in
the lives of Austrians, and the country has certainly been a stronghold of
Catholicism for centuries. Inquiring whether theres a church in town is
bit like asking whether the pope is Catholic. In the latest census, 73.6% of
the population said they were Roman Catholic, 4.7% Protestant and 4.2%
Muslim. Freedom of religion is guaranteed under the constitution.
All is well for the Catholic Church then, right? It could be worse.
Religion for most Austrians means observing the major rituals such as

For online information

on Austrias cultural
life, people and
movements, see the
Austrian Encyclopaedia
website www.aeiou.at.

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baptism, confirmation and weddings and funerals; about one-third make

it regularly to church.

ARTS
Music

Austria has almost

2000 wind instrument
orchestras in which about
100,000 musicians blow
horns of one variety or
another. Lower Austria
has almost 500, Vienna
just 19.

What other country can match Austrias musical heritage or the creative
tones of its great composers? At the low-brow end of the shelf, Vienna was
known as early as the 12th century for its Minnesnger (troubadours), and in
Heurigen (wine taverns) today performers scratch out a uniquely Viennese
folk music, known as Schrammelmusik, in combos with violin, accordion,
guitar and clarinet. In the Alpine regions, Volksmusik (folk music), based on
traditional tunes but often sawn or pumped out with modern instruments,
echoes in hills and valleys.
The Habsburgs were prolific patrons of the arts, and in the 18th and 19th
centuries Europes finest flocked to Vienna in search of their generosity. In
fact, some of the Habsburgs themselves were gifted musicians: Leopold I
(16401705) composed, Karl VI (16851740) stroked a violin, his daughter
Maria Theresia plucked a decent double bass, and her son Joseph II was a
deft hand at harpsichord and cello.
Today, Austrian orchestras like the Vienna Philharmonic enjoy a reputation others would die for, and organisations such as the Vienna Boys Choir,
the Staatsoper (p152), the Musikverein (p152) and the Konzerthaus (p152)
are unrivalled. Salzburg and Graz complement Vienna as major music
centres and, like Vienna, host important annual music festivals. Linz has
the international Brucknerfest (p205), Schwarzenberg in Vorarlberg hosts
Schubertiade (Schubert Festival; p373), and Innsbruck has its own Festival of
Early Music (p338). The Bregenz Festival (p370) is famous for productions
performed on a floating stage on the Bodensee.
PAST MASTERS

Austria overflows with past masters and pretty much has been a weather
vane registering the current direction of classical music in Europe. Most
of the figures will need no introduction. Christoph Willibald von Gluck
(171487) is important because he brought operatic music and drama
together, setting the stage for opera as we know it today. Later in the
century, Josef Haydn (17321809) ushered in classicism and influenced
music like no other in his epoch with opera and operetta, symphonies,
string quartets, piano sonatas and piano trios. His greatest works included
the oratorios The Creation (1798) and The Seasons (1801) and Symphony
No 102 (1794) in B-flat Major. Haydn thought Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart
(175691) to be the greatest composer and Schubert effused that the
magic of Mozarts music lights the darkness of our lives. Mozart was
born in Salzburg, where today his house of birth and his residence give
TOP FIVE CDS
Mozart: The Magic Flute
Schubert: The Trout Quintet
Falco: Falco 3 (try to get the original LP with the full version of Rock Me, Amadeus, rather
than the CD)
Kruder & Dorfmeister: The K&D Sessions
Arnold Schnberg: Pierrot Lunaire

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wonderful insights into his creative genius; a Mozartwoche (Mozart Week)

is celebrated in late January.
Ludwig van Beethoven (17701827) was born in Bonn, Germany, but
his musical genius blossomed in Vienna under Mozart and Haydn. He
was totally deaf by 32, but that didnt stop him composing what many
consider to be his best works, including Symphony No 9 in D Minor
(1824) and Symphony No 5 (1808). Franz Schubert (17971828), a native
of Vienna, was the last in the great line of composers from the Viennese
Schools Classical period (17401825). Although syphilis (or typhoid) took
him to an early grave at 31, he composed a startling number of symphonies, overtures, masses, choral and piano works, chamber music and
Lieder (songs).
The waltz originated in Vienna in the early 19th century and early masters
of this genre were Johann Strauss the Elder (180449), who also composed
the Radetzky March (1848), and Josef Lanner (180143). Johann Strauss
the Younger (182599) followed up with Austrias unofficial anthem, the
Blue Danube (1867), Tales from the Vienna Woods (1868) and his eternally
popular operettas Die Fledermaus (1874) and The Gypsy Baron (1885).
The 19th century brought forth great composers such as Anton Bruckner
(182496), who was long associated with the abbey in St Florian (p209);
the Hamburg-born Johannes Brahms (183397), who worked in Vienna
and died there; the director of the Vienna Court Opera from 1897 to 1907,
Gustav Mahler (18601911); and Hungarian born Franz Lehr (1870
1948), who composed Die lustige Witwe (The Merry Widow; 1905).
Vienna also gave us the 20th centurys most innovative composer Arnold
Schnberg (18741951), who stretched tonal conventions to snapping point
with his 12-tone style of composition. The most influential of his pupils in
this Second Vienna School were Alban Berg (18851935) and Anton von
Webern (18831945); both were born in the capital and both explored and
continued the development of Schnbergs technique. Tellingly, at the first
public performance of Bergs composition Altenberg-Lieder, the concert
was cut short because the audience fell over itself with rage.

47

After the call for a

republic, the gentry in
Austria was abolished.
In its place is possession
of a season ticket for the
Vienna Philharmonic.
AUSTRIAN WRITER HANS WEIGEL

Before burial, Haydns

head was purloined by
phrenologists. The skull
was preserved, passed
around over the years,
and finally reunited with
the rest of Haydn in the
1950s.

CONTEMPORARY CLASSIC

Given such a pedigree in classic, the high quality of Austrias contemporary classic scene should come as no surprise. The post-WWII years
were finally lifted out of darkness by Friedrich Cerha (b 1926), whose
famous compositions include Spiegel I-VII (196072) and the Brecht opera
Baal (1974). In the 1960s and 70s Cerha was joined by a wave of brash
and exciting young composers. Influenced by Schnberg, MOB art & tone
ART was one group of composers and musicians that shook up the scene,
formed around Otto M Zykan (19352006), Kurt Schwertsik (b 1935) and
Heinz Karl Gruber (b 1943). Today Gruber is the most successful of the
three. The 1980s brought the next generation. The Swiss-born Beat Furrer
(b 1954) founded the Klangforum (Sound Forum), which has developed
into the foremost group featuring new music soloists today not least
because it has a long-running residency at the prestigious Paris Opera
(Palais Garnier). Others paddling innovative waters are Bernhard Lang
(b 1957), who integrates electronic forms into his new music, and Olga
Neuwirth (b 1968), who collaborates closely with Nobel Prize-winning
author Elfriede Jelinek (see p55) on exciting dramatic works. On a more
traditional note, the Tyrolean composer Johannes Maria Staud (b 1974)
is very highly regarded. A premiere of his orchestral work Apeiron (2005)
was performed by the Berlin Philharmonic under the expert baton of Sir
Simon Rattle.

Beethoven must have

been picky with his
dwelling; he lived in as
many as 60 addresses
during his time in Vienna.

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JAZZ

Actually, you dont go

to the disco in Linz.
You dont really go to
Linz. Linz is the ass of
the world: chemicals,
boredom, drugs. Which
means, come to think of
it, of course you have to
go to Linz if youre in the
rap business the ghetto
city of Austria and the
toughest Austrias got
to offer.
GERMAN JOURNALIST WOLFGANG
HBEL

Among the figures from the 1980s, Max Nagl (b 1960; www.maxnagl.
at, in German) is possibly the most influential, but jazz aficionados
abroad will probably be more familiar with Wolfgang Puschnig (b 1956;
www.puschnig.com, in German) and the big band Vienna Art Orchestra
(www.vao.at), founded with Zrich-born Mathias Regg (b 1952) and
others.
Since then a new guard has unpacked its instruments in the clubs and
bars. The young trumpeter Lorenz Raab (b 1975; www.lorenzraab.at, in
German) currently enjoys a very strong following in club culture. Other
club performers to watch out for are HDV Trio from Vorarlberg (www
.hdvtrio.com, in German), and Viennas best-known acoustic act, Drechsler,
a saxophone trio with its own DJ (www.ulrichdrechsler.com). The guitarist
Wolfgang Muthspiel (b 1965; www.materialrecords.com, in German) is also
quite well-known internationally, but if the soul sounds of the Hammond
organ are your secret vice, Raphael Wressnig (b 1979; www.raphaelwressnig
.com, in German) is the man in Austria to watch out for.
A group of ultra contemporary artists are associated with Viennas
Jazzwerkstatt (www.jazzwerkstatt.at), a collective that promotes jazz in
Austria and organises an annual three-week jazz festival (free admission)
in Vienna each March. Following is a whirlwind tour of the scene; check the
websites for current dates and venues.
Austria currently has some great saxophone artists, including Christoph
Auer (b 1981; www.christophauer.at), the saxophone quartet Phoen, (http://
phoen.at) and the sax and clarinet player Clemens Salesny (b 1980; www
.clemens-salesny.at, in German). Christoph Dienz (b 1968; www.dienz
.at, in German) plays the bassoon and brings the zither, a stringed folk
instrument, to jazz and improvisation, whereas Kelomat (www.kelom.at),
which plays traditional and improvised jazz, is the most successful among
a new generation on the scene.
Moving on to grooves styles, Peter Rom (b 1972; http://peterrom.com)
heads an exciting trio, and Bernd Satziger (b 1977; www.wurschtsemmerl
.at, in German) leads a wonderful three-piece outfit that uses a Wurlitzer
organ. If your style is more rock, fusion, punk, improvisation or strange
noises, Jazzwerkstatt figures to keep an ear open for are the unutterable
Brpobr (http://brpobr.klingt.org, in German), some of whose work is reminiscent of early Pink Floyd; the more melody-based Fuzz Noir (www.fuzz
noir.com), and Tumido (http://tumido.klingt.org, in German); the latter is
a techno-punk-jazz outfit.
Jazz women figure prominently on the scene, and one group to watch
out for is Falb Fiction, led by the saxophonist Viola Falb (b 1980; www
.falbfiction.com, in German). Her style ranges from strictly harmonic to free,
melodic ballads to pulsing grooves and goes into rock. Mosaik, an outfit
headed by Angela Trndle (b 1983) creates vocal and purely instrumental
jazz sounds based on clean rhythms and melodies infused with lots of piano,
which Trndle herself plays. Agnes Heginger (b 1973) has an education in
classic as well as jazz, and doesnt shy away from throwing in improvisation or pop or anything else for that matter. In the past shes worked with
Georg Breinschmidt (b 1973), Austrias virtuoso of contrabass jazz. The
Graz-born Elisabeth Harnik (b 1970) composes and improvises on piano,
and appears regularly at home-grown jazz events and across Europe, either
solo, on piano or improvising with groups. Austria also attracts some talented
Balkan and Eastern European jazz artists. The Slovenian Maja Osojnik (b
1976; www.majaosojnik.com), a long-time resident of Vienna, is a hot tip
among jazz punters.

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T H E C U LT U R E A r t s

As well as the Jazzwerkstatt events, the three week Jazzfest Wien is held
in June-July each year (www.vienna jazz.org).
ROCK, POP & UNDERGROUND

Dig into the rock scene and the depth and variety of Austrias talent will
lead to a lot of wild and sleepless nights in dark places. Some of the acts we
mention here are well-known, others spend more time underground than
above it. The websites will usually give you a taste of the music, and with
a bit of surfing and good old-fashioned pencil and paper you can cobble
together a Sound of Music tour of a different kind (and more interesting
than the Von Trapp variety).
Naked Lunch (www.nakedlunch.de) is currently the best-known Austrian
band and have been working sounds for ages, yet its only been in the last
couple of years that theyve risen to popularity at home and abroad. Going
a bit deeper into the underground, the duo Attwenger (www.attwenger.at)
has a large following for its music with flavours of folk, hip-hop and trance.
Completing the triumvirate of relative old hands, Graz-based Rainer BinderKrieglstein (b 1966; performing as binder & krieglstein, www.mikaella.org/bk,
in German) does an eclectic blend of headz, hip-hop, groove and nujazz.
For hip-hop pure, Linz-based Texta (www.texta.at, in German) is the
most established in the art. Young blood comes in the form of art-house
hoppers Mieze Medusa & Tenderboy (www.miezemedusa.com, in German),
who are regulars on the Vienna circuit and organise poetry slams in town.
Two other bands calling the hip-hop shots are Waxolutionists (www.waxos
.com) and the bizarre Bauchklang (www.bauchklang.com), remarkable for
FALCO LIVING HARD, LEAVING BEHIND A WRECK
It may come as a surprise to some, but the music scene in Austria is one of Europes most exciting
at the moment. The roots of a distinctly Austrian sound go back to the 1970s, when Austropop
was born. It was influenced by US artists like Bruce Springsteen and Bob Dylan, and this small
and still quite close-knit scene often sprinkled its lyrics with local dialect.
One of the most eccentric bands from the very beginning was the rock-punk group Drahdiwaberl,
who combined Vienna Actionism with rock and a damned good show. One of its members, a
certain Hans Hlzel, played bass in the group and stood out from this chaotic, totally hotwired
ensemble, with his tough style and light touch of arrogance. Decked out in a suit, gelled to the
brink and performing with idiosyncratic gestures that was the beginning of the phenomena
Falco. In 1982 he went solo, and turned rock music upside down.
According to Helge Hinteregger from the Music Information Center Austria (MICA; www.mica
.at, in German), an organisation that promotes Austrian artists, Falcos influence on the development of the scene has been enormous.
Falco brought together the chill of New Wave with a blend of English and German phrased
lyrics delivered in spoken chants, which is one reason why hes also known as the inventor of
German-language hip-hop. Fatalism was always in there somewhere; drugs and alcohol were
almost part of his style. Legendary songs like Ganz Wien (Total Vienna) about heroine abuse,
Jeanny and Junge Rmer (Young Romans) played with the chill of human life on the edge of
a precipice. His innovation and power, his success, and not to forget the musician Falco himself,
were a stroke of luck for the Austrian music scene. You can still feel his influence today. Out of
the local style of New Wave later came Vienna Electronic.
With a number one hit in the US charts, Falco reached the peak of his career. But Falco himself
knew it was also breaking point and the only way now was down. Rock me Amadeus wasnt
Falcos last hit, but nor could he recreate its phenomenal success. Right up until his death in a
car accident in 1998, he remained a key figure in Austrian music, and Falco events are held every
year on his birthday and on the anniversary of the crash.

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using only voices no instruments for its reggae- and ethnic-influenced

hip-hop and trance.
This, of course, is absolutely normal compared to the equally remarkable
Fuckhead (www.fuckhead.at), who, alone for a tendency to perform in plastic
robes or gear that looks suspiciously like underwear, will obviously not be
everyones cup of tea. This is high-voltage turbo industrial grunge and its
akin to listening hard while a surgeon removes your eardrum; afterwards you
might be ready to tune into the saccharine flavours of teeny rocker Christina
Strmer (b 1982; www.christinastuermer.de, in German), or indeed to the
very soft lounge rhythms of Saint Privat (www.saintp rivat.com).
Stage diving into the DJ scene, Electric Indigo (Susanne Kirchmayr, b
1965; www.indigo-inc.at) is the most influential of the female DJs, she organises a platform (female: pressure) for gals who DJ and an online sound
base (Open Sounds), and performs with a Club Crazy residency in Viennas
Flex venue (see p153). Tanja Bednar (aka tibcurl; www.tibcurl.com), is
possibly Viennas best-known DJ act; she regularly puts on the Icke Micke
Club (www.ickemicke.at), whose wintering ground in the past has included
Viennas Camera Club (p153). Among the guys, DJ Patrick Pulsinger (b 1970;
www.feedback-studio.com) spins a variety of genres, including jazz, new
music and experimental. Peter Kruder (b 1967) and Richard Dorfmeister
(b 1968) together form the production and DJ and production team Kruder
& Dorfmeister, who are Austrias most successful act, which ranges from
downtempo to trip-hop and electronic rhythms.

RENAISSANCE

Architecture
The earliest architecture youll find in Austria is a funereal form the 700
grave mounds located outside Grossklein (p236), illustrating how the Iron
Age Hallstatt Culture buried its dead. Also surviving from the early days
of settlement are numerous Roman ruins dating from 15 BC to AD 500,
including those excavated in Carnuntum (p178), and on Michaelerplatz
(p137) in Vienna.
ROMANESQUE
Learn more about
Austrian architecture
at the Architekturtage
(Architectural Days) in
June. For more
information go to
www.architekturtage.at,
in German.

The Romanesque period in Austria dates from about AD 1000 to 1250

and features heavy walls, closely spaced harmonising columns and
heavy, rounded arches, along with the use of statues and reliefs on the
portals and apses. Dig below any Gothic church and youll often find
Romanesque foundations. This style was almost entirely religious in nature
and flourished under the Babenberg dynasty, which threw plenty of cash
at craftsmen to build cathedrals and abbeys. Some of the best surviving
Romanesque buildings today are the cathedral in Gurk (p302) and the
Benedictine abbey in Millstatt (p308), both in Carinthia, and the funerary chapel of the Pfarrkirche St Stephan in Tulln (p173). You can also
find some Romanesque features today in the main entrance and towers
of Viennas breathtaking Stephansdom (see p124).
GOTHIC

Around 1250 the Romanesque style gave way to Gothic, which petered
out in the 16th century. Its hallmarks are high stained-glass windows,
pointed arches and ribbed ceiling vaults, external flying buttresses to support the walls, and elaborately carved doorway columns. Stephansdom is
the heart and soul of the Gothic style, but Austria also has lots of secular Gothic buildings, including the Goldenes Dachl (p337) in Innsbruck,
the Kornmesserhaus (p240) in Bruck an der Mur and the Bummerlhaus
(p211) in Steyr.

T H E C U LT U R E A r t s

By the 16th century, Gothic flavours began to pall and Austrians discovered a new enthusiasm for classical forms. This obsession with grace, grandeur and symmetry coincided with the rising fortunes of the Habsburgs.
Italian architects set to work on designing palaces, mansions and houses
that blended Italian and Austrian influences. One of the hallmarks of the
era was the arcade courtyard; fine examples are Schloss Schallaburg (p166)
and Landhaushof (p224) in Graz. Another feature of Renaissance was the
sgraffito faade, which is created by applying two layers of different colours and scratching a design into the top layer to reveal the layer beneath.
This effect has been put to good use on houses in St Veit an der Glan in
Carinthia (p303).
BAROQUE & ROCOCO

With the end of the Thirty Years War and a receding Turkish threat,
Austrias monarchy discovered urban development. This happened at a
time baroque was making huge ground in architecture. Features of the
resplendent, triumphal style were marble columns, elaborate sculpture
and painting, and rich, gilded ornamentation; it added up to extravagant
interiors designed to inspire and impress. Not to be outdone, the Church
chipped in with a profusion of decorated interiors rich enough to make
worshippers giddy.
Having learnt from the Italian school, Graz-born architect Johann
Bernhard Fischer von Erlach (16561723) developed an Austrian baroque
style, which grew to prominence from 1690 and expired around 1730.
This reflected the gushing decorative style of Italian baroque but gave it a
specifically Austrian twist, with dynamic colours and irregular or undulating lines. Austria has so many outstanding baroque buildings that its
difficult to know where to start. Some of the best are Fischer von Erlachs
Kollegienkirche (p273) in Salzburg and his Karlskirche (p133) in Vienna,
Johann Lukas von Hildebrandts Schloss Belvedere (p132), also in Vienna,
and Stift Melk (p172) and Augustiner Chorherrenstift (p209), both by
Jakob Prandtauer (16601726).
Rococo, the decorative climax of baroque, was the favoured style of the
empress Maria Theresia, who chose it for the rooms of Schloss Schnbrunn
(p135) when she commissioned Nicolas Pacassi to renovate the palace
in 1744.
NEOCLASSICISM

From the 18th century, rococos extravagance bowed down to a revival of

old architectural styles. Known as neoclassicism (because many works had
a classical bent) or revivalism, the trend culminated in cold lines and strict
forms in the 19th century. The Ancient Greece-inspired historicism of the
parliament building (p128) in Vienna from 1883 is a good illustration,
symbolising democracy with its impressively soaring columns.
When Emperor Franz Josef I took the Austro-Hungarian throne in
1848, the building boom reached new heights of grandiosity. Viennas
Ringstrasse (p128) is Austrias showcase from this time, and was developed
on the site of the old city walls from 1857 onwards. Ringstrasse also demonstrates just how flagrantly builders plundered previous styles, including
French Gothic (Votivkirche), Flemish Gothic (Rathaus; p128), Grecian
(Parliament; p128), French Renaissance (Staatsoper; p152) and Florentine
Renaissance (Museum fr angewandte Kunst; p128). If neoclassicism is
your thing, this is the best Europe has to offer.

51

The
obsession
with grace,
grandeur
and
symmetry
coincided
with the
rising
fortunes
of the
Habsburgs

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GUSTAV KLIMT & SECESSIONISM

Now usually associated with Art Nouveau, the Viennese Secession movement was formed by
19 artists in the 1890s in order to break away from the historical or revivalist styles that dominated Europe at the time. The painter Gustav Klimt (18621918) was its first president, and other
Secession artists included architect Otto Wagner (18411918), interior designer and painter Carl
Moll (18611945) and painter Kolo Moser (18681918).
Secession artists worked in a highly decorative style. Klimts famous painting The Kiss (1908)
is typical of the rich ornamentation, vivid colour and floral motifs favoured by the movement.
His later pictures (such as the two portraits of Adele Bloch-Bauer from 1907) employ a harmonious but ostentatious use of background colour, with much metallic gold and silver to evoke or
symbolise the emotion.
Otto Wagner, by contrast, began working in historicist styles (some neo-Renaissance buildings
on Viennas Ringstrasse are by his hand), joined the Secessionists, and with Klimt and others
split from them and adopted his own more-functional style. His greatest works include the
Postsparkasse (Post Office Savings Bank; p131), the Kirche am Steinhof (p136) and the Majolikahaus
(p135), but his work can be seen everywhere in the capital; he designed some 35 stations of
the current U-Bahn system.

MODERN

In an age of change, something had to give. Late-19th-century Jugendstil

(Art Nouveau) was sensuous, decorative and, unlike rococo, neoclassicism
or neoclassical revivalism, not intent on bowling over with exaggerated
displays of beauty or strict lines. In Vienna the style blossomed with the
founding of the Secession movement in 1897, led by painter Gustav Klimt
(18621918). One of the foremost architects in the movement was Otto
Wagner (18411918; see above). Another, Adolf Loos (18701933) was
influenced by Wagner, broke with his style, and became a bitter critic of the
Ringstrasse buildings. His Loos Haus (p137) and American Bar (p149) in
Vienna offer a good insight into his style.
The influence of the Social Democrats in the Vienna city government of
the new republic (from 1918) gave rise to a number of municipal building
projects, not least the massive Karl-Marx-Hof apartment complex. This
stands in contrast to the multicoloured, haphazard-looking work of Austrias
maverick 20th-century architect, Friedensreich Hundertwasser (see boxed
text, opposite).
Austrias leading postmodern architect is Hans Hollein (b 1934), designer of the angular glass and stone Haas Haus (1990) in Vienna, near
Stephansdom. Impressive but very different in its form, the monumental
Hangar-7 (2003; p278) at Salzburgs airport is a spectacular glass and steel
hanger housing vintage aircraft, art exhibitions and visitor facilities, designed
by Volkmar Burgstaller (b 1944). Meanwhile in Linz, the Zrich architects
Weber & Hofer are the force behind the cube-shaped Lentos art museum
(2003; p203). One of Austrias most bizarre recent constructions, however,
is the Friendly Alien Kunsthaus (2003; p226) in Graz by British architects
Peter Cook (b 1936) and Colin Fournier (b 1944), a creation with nozzles
and an acrylic skin with electronic morphing capabilities.

Painting
Austria has some of the worlds most impressive collections of paintings.
Oberes Belvedere (p132) and the Prunkstall (p132) have a wealth of Gothic
religious art from the Middle Ages. Come the Renaissance, the focus of the
Viennese shifted from biblical motifs to landscapes. The Danube School
(unusual because it combined both) included greats such as Rueland Frueauf

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the Younger (14701545), Wolf Huber (14851553) and German-born Lukas

Cranach the Elder (14721553).
Baroque artists were relatively thin on the ground in Austria, but the ceiling frescoes of Johann Michael Rottmayr (16541730) in Salzburgs Residenz
(p268) and in the Stift Klosterneuburg (p160) are remarkable legacies. The
other great baroque master is Daniel Gran (16941757), whose major work
is in Viennas Nationalbibliothek (p126). Taking the brush to canvas as well
as roofs, Franz Anton Maulbertsch (172496) left legacies in the Riesensaal
of the Hofburg in Innsbruck (p334) and in the sterreichische Galerie of
Schloss Belvedere in Vienna (p132). The other great baroque painter, Paul
Troger (16981762), created stunning spatial effects in Stift Melk (p172).
The Biedermeier period of the mid-19th century produced leading artists
Ferdinand Waldmller (17931865) and Friedrich Gauermann (180762),
who captured the age in portraits, landscapes and period scenes. Some of
Waldmllers evocative (if idealised) peasant scenes can be viewed in the
Oberes Belvedere (p132) in Vienna.
While the neoclassical period certainly produced its local greats, including
August von Pettenkofen (182289) and Hans Makart (184084), Austrias
golden age was still just around the corner. The turn of the century brought
the Jugendstil period, featuring organic motifs such as plant tendrils, flowing hair, flames and waves. No-one embraced this sensuousness more than
Gustav Klimt (18621918; opposite).
His contemporary, Egon Schiele (18901918), created grittier and more
confronting works. Schiele worked largely with the human figure, and many
of his works are brilliantly executed minimalist line drawings splashed with
patches of bright colour and usually featuring women in pornographic
poses. He also produced many self-portraits and a few large, breathtaking
painted canvases, most of which can be seen in the Leopold Museum (p130).
Viennas Oberes Belvedere (p132) has a wonderful collection from the era,

53

Museum after museum is

listed on www
.austrianmuseums.net;
its in German but its
pretty easy to navigate.

THE STRAIGHT LINE IS GODLESS

One of Austrias most celebrated architects-artists is Friedensreich Hundertwasser. Thanks to his
eccentricity, he is also one of the most entertaining visually and literally. When you look at his
creations, including his last work a public toilet in his beloved second home, New Zealand you
can understand what lies behind his claim that the straight line is godless and immoral.
Some say his work is a nervous response to Bauhaus or Jackson Pollock. Perhaps. In his famous
Verschimmelungsmanifest (Mould Manifesto, 1964), he claimed to have once counted 546 straight
lines on a razor blade. And while not everyone who has battled with mould in their homes will
agree with his (positive) view that with the microbes and sponge, life comes into the house. His
claim that his uneven floors become a symphony, a melody for the feet, and bring back natural
vibrations to man has won followers.
Hundertwasser lost a good deal of his family in the Nazi death camps and began a career in art
at the Akademie der bildenden Knste (Academy of Fine Arts) in 1948, soon afterwards treading
his own creative path. He would later move towards spiritual ecology, believing that cities should
be harmonious with their (natural) environment. He envisaged buildings semi-submerged beneath
undulating meadows, and homes with tree tenants, who pay rent in environmental currency.
With the air and ozone layer getting thinner, perhaps he was onto something.
Hundertwasser locked horns with the Viennese establishment on many occasions, and he
complained that his more radical building projects were quashed by the authorities. Nevertheless,
he was commissioned to re-create the faade of the Spittelau incinerator in Vienna. This project
opened in 1992 and is probably the most unindustrial-looking heating plant youll find. Other
Hundertwasser creations include the KunsthausWien and Hundertwasserhaus in Vienna (p131),
St Barbara Kirche in Brnbach (p235) and Bad Blumaus spa resort (p237).

54

T H E C U LT U R E A r t s

lonelyplanet.com

VIENNESE ACTIONISM Dr Ed Baxter

Viennese Actionism spanned the years 195768 and was one of the most extreme of all the
modern art movements. It was linked to the Wiener Gruppe (Vienna Group) and had its roots
in abstract expressionism. Actionism sought access to the unconscious through the frenzy of an
extreme and very direct art: the Actionists quickly moved from pouring paint over the canvas,
which was then slashed with knives, to using bodies (live people, dead animals) as brushes, and
using blood, excrement, eggs, mud and whatever else came to hand as paint. The traditional
canvas was soon dispensed with altogether. The artists body became the canvas, and the site of
art became a deliberated event (the scripted action, staged both privately and publicly).
It was a short step from self-painting to inflicting wounds upon the body, and engaging in
physical and psychological endurance tests. For 10 years the Actionists scandalised the press and
public and incited violence and panic and got plenty of publicity in the process. Often poetic,
humorous and aggressive, the Actions became increasingly politicised, addressing the sexual and
social repression that pervaded the Austrian state. Art in Revolution (1968), the last Action to be
realised in Vienna, resulted in six months hard labour all-round.

Hermann Nitsch still

practices Viennese
Actionism; decide for
yourself whether its your
cup of tea at www.nitsch
.org, in German.

and a museum in Tulln (p173) is dedicated entirely to Schiele. The other

major exponent of Viennese Expressionism was playwright, poet and painter
Oskar Kokoschka (18861980), whose sometimes-turbulent works reveal an
interest in psychoanalytic imagery and baroque-era religious symbolism.
Kokoschkas work is also showcased in the Leopold.
Painting took a backseat between the two world wars, but returned with
a vengeance after WWII. In the 1950s HC Artmann (19212000) founded
the Wiener Gruppe (Vienna Group); its members integrated surrealism and
Dadaism into their sound compositions, textual montages, and Actionist
happenings. Public outrage and police intervention were regular accompaniments to their meetings. The groups activities came to an end in 1964 when
Konrad Bayer (193264), its most influential member, committed suicide;
much of the legacy of the movement is on show in the MUMOK (p130).
Some of the important names in todays Austrias art scene include Gunter
Brus (b 1938) and Hermann Nitsch (b 1938), both former members of the
Actionism group, Arnulf Rainer (b 1929), also associated with Actionism
but more recently involved in photographing and reworking classic pieces
by Schiele, van Gogh and Rembrandt, and Eva Schlegel (b 1960), who
works with a wide range of media. Sammlung Essl in Klosterneuburg has
many of these artists and should be high on the list of places to visit for
contemporary art.

Sculpture

Take a peak at the

sublime works of the
Wiener Werksttte and
learn something of the
organisations history at
www.wiener-werk
staette.at.

Austria is blessed with two very early pieces of erotic pre-Christian sculpture.
At over 30,000 years old, Venus of Galgenberg (aka Dancing Fanny) is the
oldest-known stone figurine in the world, while the more rapturous Venus of
Willendorf, discovered in the Danube Valley, has fended off suitors for some
25,000 years. Both are now in Viennas Naturhistorisches Museum (p129).
The enamel Verdun Altar (1181) in Klosterneuburg abbey (p160) is
Austrias finest surviving work from the Romanesque period. Some of the
most beautiful altars were carved of lime wood during the Gothic era. The
best known are today in St Wolfgang (p260) and are the work of Michael
Pacher (144098), who is one of the most skilful religious artists working in
the 15th century. The tomb (1502) of Maximilian I in Innsbrucks Hofkirche
(p334) is a highlight of the Renaissance, and the same church has impressive statues in bronze, including several by the German master of all trades,
Albrecht Drer (14711528).

lonelyplanet.com

T H E C U LT U R E A r t s

The baroque period is captured in the fountain by George Raphael Donner

in Viennas Neuer Markt (p137), and Balthasar Permosers statue of Prince
Eugne in the Schloss Belvedere (p132). Those with a special interest in
baroque funeral caskets should look no further than the giant double sarcophagus created by Balthasar Moll (171785) for Maria Theresia and Franz
I, located on Viennas Neuer Markt (p127).
Neoclassicism was the age of the equestrian statue, and nothing typifies
this better than the one from 1804 of Emperor Joseph II in Josefsplatz in
Viennas Hofburg (p125). Salzburg also has some distinctive equine marvels
in its old town centre.
The Biedermeier period achieved much in furniture and some of this can
be seen in Viennas Museum fr angewandte Kunst (Museum of Applied
Art; p131). It also gave rise to the technique of bending wood in furniture,
particularly in the backs of chairs, and since that time the bentwood chair
has also been known as the Viennese chair.
The Secessionist movement not only had a hand in painting and architecture, but also some interesting sculpture. This offshoot was known as the
Wiener Werksttte (Vienna Workshop), which changed the face of domestic
design. Wallpaper, curtains, furniture, tiles, vases, trays, cutlery, bowls and
jewellery were all targets for design; aesthetics came before practicality, which
means that some of it is brilliant but utterly useless. Josef Hoffmann was a
prominent figure in the Werksttte, as was Kolo Moser (18681918); many
of their works, along with other members, can be seen at the Museum fr
angewandte Kunst (p131) and Leopold Museum (p130).

Literature
The outstanding Austrian work produced in the Middle Ages was the
Nibelungenlied (Song of the Nibelungs), written around 1200 by an unknown
hand. This epic poem told a tale of passion, faithfulness and revenge in the
Burgundian court at Worms. Its themes were adapted by Richard Wagner
in his The Ring of the Nibelungen operatic series.
Aside from Franz Grillparzer (17911872; see p57), Austrias literary
tradition didnt really take off until around the turn of the 20th century,
when the Vienna Secessionists and Sigmund Freud were creating waves.
Influential writers who emerged at this time included Arthur Schnitzler
(18621931), Hugo von Hofmannsthal (18741929), Karl Kraus (18741936)
and the young poet Georg Trakl (18871914). Kraus apocalyptic drama Die
letzten Tage der Menschheit (The Last Days of Mankind, 1922) employed a
combination of reports, interviews and press extracts to portray the absurdity of war.
Peter Altenberg (18591919) was a drug addict and alcoholic whose
doctor wrote him off as unfit for work due to an overly sensitive nervous
system. Quite sensibly, he dedicated his life to poetry after that and portrayed bohemian Vienna. Youll find an amusing figure of him as you enter
his favourite coffee house, Caf Central (p151) in Vienna. Hermann Broch
(18861951) was also very much part of Viennese caf society. Broch was
a scientist at heart who believed literature could provide the metaphysical
explanations for scientific discovery. His masterwork was Der Tod des Vergil
(The Death of Virgil, 1945) written in a Nazi concentration camp and after
his emigration to the USA.
Robert Musil (18801942) was one of the most important 20th-century
writers, but he only achieved international recognition after his death with
his major literary achievement, Der Mann ohne Eigenschaften (The Man
without Qualities, 1932). This seven-volume unfinished work is a fascinating portrait of the collapsing Austro-Hungarian monarchy. Heimito von

55

A slice of Viennese life

in the late 60s from
popular US author John
Irving, Setting Free the
Bears tells a charming,
sad and amusing story
about a plan to release
the animals from the zoo
at Schnbrunn.

Set in 1932, The Radetzky

March by Joseph Roth is
the study of one family
affected by the end of
empire. The themes
of The Radetzky March
are applicable to any
society emerging from a
long-hated, but at least
understood, regime.

Not just a novel, but a

complete overhaul of
what a novel can be,
The Death of Virgil by
Hermann Broch is as
stylistically groundbreaking as Joyces
Ulysses. Covering the last
day of the poets life, this
book is hard, hard work.

56

T H E C U LT U R E A r t s

Thomas Bernhards
one-sentence prose poem
On the Mountain is the
story of a man about to
die of lung disease. The
first book Bernhard wrote
and the last he published,
it is bleak and bitter. Also
try Cutting Timber and
Wittgensteins Nephew.

Witty and clever, Elfriede

Jelinek hates all her
characters. Her novel
Lust is the story of a rural
woman preyed on by
her husband and lover,
told without a gram of
sympathy for the filthy
habits of humans.

So its kitsch, tacky and

full of cheesy songs, but
theres no denying the
popularity of The Sound
of Music (1965) by Robert
Wise, the story of the
multitalented Von Trapp
family and their toogood-to-be-true nanny.

lonelyplanet.com

Doderer (18961966) grew up in Vienna, which is why his two great works,
Die Strudlhofstiege (1951) and Die Dmonen (The Demons; 1956) depict
Vienna society in the first decades of the 20th century.
A friend of Freud, a librettist for Strauss and a victim of Nazi book burnings, Stefan Zweig (18811942) certainly had a rich social pedigree. A poet,
playwright, translator, paranoiac and pacifist to boot, Zweig believed Nazism
had been conceived specifically with him in mind and as a result he when he
became convinced in 1942 that Hitler would take over the world, he took an
overdose of barbiturates in his chosen exile, outside Rio de Janeiro. Joseph
Roth (18941939), primarily a journalist, wrote about the concerns of Jews
in exile and of Austrians uncertain of their identity at the end of empire.
His re-released What I Saw: Reports from Berlin, 192033 (2002) is part of
a resurgence of interest in this fascinating writer.
Perhaps its something in that murky Danube water, but the majority of
contemporary Viennese authors (at least, those translated into English) are
grim, guilt-ridden, angry and sometimes incomprehensibly avant-garde.
Thomas Bernhard (193189) was born in Holland but grew up and lived in
Austria. Like seemingly many Viennese, he was obsessed with disintegration
and death, and in later works such as Holzfllen (Cutting Timber, 1984)
turned to controversial attacks against social conventions and institutions.
His novels are seamless (no chapters or paragraphs, few full stops) and seemingly repetitive, but surprisingly readable once you get into them.
The best-known contemporary writer is Peter Handke (b 1942). His postmodern, abstract output encompasses innovative and introspective prose
works such as Die linkshndige Frau (The Left-Handed Woman, 1976) and
stylistic plays like Die Stunde, da wir nichts voneinander wussten (The Hour
When We Knew Nothing of Each Other, 1992). The provocative novelist and
2004 Nobel Laureate Elfriede Jelinek (b 1946) dispenses with direct speech,
indulges in long flights of fancy and takes a very dim view of humanity, but
she is worth persevering with. Die Klavierspielerin (The Piano Teacher, 1983),
Lust (1989), Die Liebhaberinnen (Women as Lovers, 1975), Die Ausgesperrten
(Wonderful, Wonderful Times, 1980) and Einar (2006) are all available in
English; The Piano Teacher has also been made into a film.
Elisabeth Reichart (b 1953) stands out for her novels and essays, and especially for criticism of patriarchy and investigations of Nazi-related Austrian
guilt, both during WWII and more recently. Her Das Haus der sterbenden
Mnner (House of the Dying Men, 2005) is a richly textured novel based
on the relationship between two very different women, one of whom runs a
home for terminally ill men. Novelist and lyricist Wilhelm Aigner (b 1954)
was awarded the prestigious Grosser sterreichischer Staatspreis fr Literatur
(Grand Austrian State Prize for Literature) in 2006 and his Die schnen bitteren Wochen des Johann Nepomuk (The Beautiful, Bitter Weeks of Johann
Nepomuk, 2006) about first love, football and adolescence also appears in
English. Contemporary young authors who are shaping the literary scene
today include Thomas Glavinic (b 1972), Berlin-based Kathrin Rggla (b
1971), and Vienna-based (Munich-born) Daniel Kehlmann (b 1975), whose
historical novel Vermessung der Welt (Measuring the World, 2005) about
early scientists Alexander von Humboldt and Carl Friedrich Gauss is highly
acclaimed and in translation.

Cinema & TV
Austria may have a long history in film (1908 marked the countrys first
feature film, Von Stufe zu Stufe; From Stage to Stage), but its endeavours have
generally gone unnoticed outside the German-speaking world. As a cinematic
backdrop for film, the story is quite different; two of the most famous films

lonelyplanet.com

T H E C U LT U R E A r t s

in cinematic history, The Third Man (1949) and The Sound of Music (1965),
are set in Vienna and Salzburg respectively. Both flopped on release in the
country, and while most Austrians still havent a clue about Doe, a deer, a
female deer, opinions on Harry Lime and his penicillin racket have turned
180 degrees since then (p32). There are literally hundreds of other films
and TV programmes filmed in Austria; Before Sunrise (1994), The Living
Daylights (1987) and Where Eagles Dare (1968; staring Clint Eastwood and
Richard Burton) are three of the more famous examples.
Many of Austrias early big names were successful after they travelled
to Berlin or Hollywood. Vienna-born director Fritz Lang (18901976)
pretty much captures it all: he almost ruined his Berlin film studio with the
astronomical budget of Metropolis (1926), the story of a society enslaved by
technology. This and his The Last Will of Dr Mabuse (1932), during which
an incarcerated madman spouts Nazi doctrine, were banned under the Nazis;
after knocking back a work offer from Hitler, who was besotted Langs silent
classic Die Nibelungen (1924), the director went to Hollywood.
Writer and director Billy Wilder (19062002), who moved to Vienna in
1916, also worked in Berlin before striking out for Hollywood. Others who
are famous internationally are glamour girl Hedy Lamarr (19132000),
and director Fred Zinnemann (19071997; From Here to Eternity and
High Noon in 1952). For many, Klaus Maria Brandauer (b 1944), star of
Out of Africa (1985) and Mephisto (1981) will need no introduction, and
Arnold Schwarzenegger (b 1947), has left visiting cards in Hollywood and
as Governor of California.
One filmmaker today attracting attention at home and abroad is Michael
Haneke (b 1942), whose work often features violence and a theme of selfdestruction. His first film, Funny Games (1997), played at the Cannes Film
Festival, and his The Piano Teacher (2001), based on the novel by Viennese
writer Elfriede Jelinek went one step further by winning three awards there.
Director Hans Weingartner (b 1970) achieved acclaim with Die fetten Jahre
sind vorbei (The Edukators, 2004), an insightful film that shows the generation problems you take on if you kidnap an ex-student revolutionaryturned-businessman (its not worth the trouble, it seems). Ground was also
broken in In 3 Tagen bist du tot (In 3 Days Youre Dead, 2006), when director
Andreas Prochaska (b 1964) filmed amateur actors speaking local dialect in
a teenage thriller set in the bucolic landscape of the Salzkammergut. In the
documentary genre, Hubert Sauper (b 1966) received an Oscar nomination
for Darwins Nightmare (2004).
Although news coverage is excellent, locally dubbed foreign fare dominates a bland TV landscape. Testing the brains sleep centre are noble but
interminable broadcasts of parliament, Austrian talk shows, local variants on
reality TV or specials on folk music. Against this backdrop, the old favourite,
Komissar Rex, a bizarrely genre-fluid crime series with a dash of slapstick
featuring a ham-roll-stealing German Shepherd dog and plenty of local
scenery, reaches giddying and thoroughly enjoyable heights.

Theatre & Dance

Viennas tradition in the theatre was and still is bolstered by the
quality of the operas and operettas produced in the golden age of music.
In addition to these forms, Greek drama, avant-garde, mime, comedy,
cabaret, farce and other theatrical genres are regularly part of the vibrant
scene. Vienna is home to the four national theatres and opera houses the
Staatsoper (p152), Volksoper (p153), Akademietheater (the Burgtheaters
second stage) and the Burgtheater itself (p153), which is one of the premier
theatre and opera venues in the German-speaking world. Theater in der

57

All my six husbands

married me for different
reasons.
AUSTRIAN HOLLYWOOD FILM AC TRESS
HEDY LAMARR

For a complete rundown

of Austrian films in
English, consult the
archives of www.afc.at,
the Austrian Film
Commissions website.

Viennese enfant
terrible Hanekes first
world-renowned work,
Funny Games (1997) is
a disturbing study of
sadism and destruction.
A family on holiday is
taken hostage by two
well-educated young
men who want to push
some boundaries.

58

T H E C U LT U R E A r t s

Find out what the

Austrian Oaks saying
these days by visiting
the Terminator-cumgovernors slightly wacky
personal website at
www.schwarzenegger
.com.

lonelyplanet.com

Josefstadt (p153 ) is known for the modern style of acting evolved by Max
Reinhardt, while the Theater an der Wien (p152) puts on opera, dance and
concerts. All provincial capital cities are blessed with major theatres.
The first great figure in the modern era was the playwright Franz
Grillparzer (17911872). Other influential playwrights who still get a regular airing are Johann Nestroy (180162), known for his satirical farces,
and Ferdinand Raimaund, the 19th-century author of Der Alpenknig und
der Menschenfeind (The King of the Alps and the Misanthrope, 1828).
Adalbert Stifter (180568) is credited as being the seminal influence in
the development of an Austrian narrative style.
Many Viennese authors are also playwrights perhaps the Viennese
fondness for the avant-garde encourages crossing artistic boundaries.
Arthur Schnitzler, Thomas Bernhard, Elfriede Jelinek and Peter Handke
(p55) have all had their plays performed at the Burgtheater.
Dance is by no means as popular as the other arts, but it does have a
world-class venue in the TanzQuartier Wien (p153) as well as in those
venues already mentioned.

59

Food & Drink

Tradition with new, non-regional edges best describes what you can increasingly expect from Austrian restaurants today. Wiener schnitzel (from
veal), Tafelspitz (boiled beef with apple and horseradish sauce) and delicious
hams and cheeses from Tyrol are often balanced by dishes with flavoursome
infusions from outside a region or abroad. For many, the best is left for last:
deliciously divine cakes and pastries, with an international reputation hard
to beat, round off a meal perfectly.

STAPLES & SPECIALITIES

Traditionally, the largest meal of the day is at Mittag (midday), known as
Mittagessen (midday meal), whereas Abendessen (dinner) consists of bread,
cheese, ham and a beer or wine. Snacking between meals is common, and is
often referred to as Jause. If they have time, Austrians will still sit down to
a Tagesteller (set dish) or Mittagsmen (set lunch, including soup; around
6 to 9) in a restaurant, which is invariably a cheap way to fill the belly.
Frhstck (breakfast) is less important, and usually consists of coffee or tea
with a Semmel (bread roll) and jam, ham or cheese (or all three). On weekends, particularly in Vienna, breakfast is a completely different creature;
people lazily while away the hours over coffee, rolls, and occasionally a full
English breakfast.
Three courses are usual for traditional meals. Clear soups are a particular
favourite as a Vorspeise (starter), such as Frittattensuppe, a clear soup with
shreds of crepe-like pancake. Markkndelsuppe is a clear bone-marrow soup
with dumplings, while Leberkndelsuppe is yet another clear soup with liver
dumplings. Gulaschsuppe (goulash soup), a rich beef-vegetable soup with
plenty of paprika, can be taken as a starter or a main. If youre not a soup
fan, then try Bauernschmaus, a platter of cold meats and bread.
Wiener schnitzel, a breaded escalope of veal, is Viennas best-known
culinary concoction, but it is ubiquitous throughout Austria. Variations on
the schnitzel theme include the more common pork schnitzel, Cordon Bleu,
with ham and cheese, and the Natur, a schnitzel fried on its own.
Other than schnitzel, Speisekarten (menus) normally feature classic
Austrian dishes, such as Backhuhn (fried chicken; also known as Backhendl),
Tafelspitz, Schweinsbraten (slices of roast pork) and Zweibelrostbraten (slices
of roast beef smothered in gravy and fried onions). A great variety of Wurst
(sausage) is available, and not only at the takeaway stands. Common fish
include Forelle (trout), Hecht (pike), Fogosch/Zander (pike-perch), Karpfen
(carp), and Saibling, a local freshwater fish, similar to trout.
Main dishes commonly appear with Beilagen (side dishes) and extras,
which come in a variety of shapes and forms. Kndel (dumplings) are an
element of many meals, and can appear in soups and desserts as well as main
courses. Nockerln (sometimes called Sptzle, especially in the west) is small
homemade pasta with a similar taste to Kndel. Nudeln is normally flat egg
noodles, except when its the tiny noodles in a soup. Austrians love potatoes,
and are not satisfied with just boiling them. They appear as Pommes (French
fries), Quellmnner (boiled in their skins), Bratkartoffel (roasted), Gerstete
(sliced small and sauted) and Erdapfelsalat Erdpfe (boiled potatoes with
chopped chives in a watery dressing).
Regional traditional cuisine is where things get really interesting.
Burgenland has strong ties to Hungarian cooking, with lashings of paprika,
beans, potatoes and cabbage, while in Styria its hard to go anywhere

www.pumpkinseedoil
.cc more information
than you will ever need
to know about southern
Styrias liquid gold.

Its estimated that each

year about 73 million
servings of schnitzel,
42 million portions of
goulash and almost 40
million pasta dishes are
spooned into Austrian
digestive systems.

60

FOOD & DRINK Staples & Specialities

lonelyplanet.com

OUR TOP EATING EXPERIENCES

Vienna
sterreicher im MAK (p147) Classics like tongue of veal find a new edge in this sharp
restaurant.
Naschmarkt (p149) Not just the capitals most famous farmers market nosh houses stand
cheek by jowl, tantalising with exotic and local flavours.
Halle (p147) Penne with artichoke hearts meets Styrian chicken on a changing menu in the
pulsating Museums Quartier.

Lower Austria
Mrwald Kloster Und (p170) All the hallmarks of the Wachau are here: a lovely setting, good
wine and a chef to watch out for (all while enjoying breast of pigeon).
Filmbar im Kesselhaus (p169) A hungry film-lovers dream come true, with delicious salads
and meats, an art-house cinema, plus cinema exhibition space.
MOKA (p178) Miss the last bus out, treat yourself to poppy seed cake and damn it! stay
overnight.

Burgenland
Weingut Gabriel (p194) Wash down smoked sausage with great wine while watching storks
mate above the yard of this picturesque Heuriger.
Weingut & Weingasthof Kloster am Spitz (p195) Organically produced wines, game
flavoured with ginger and other fusion elements are all at home here.
Zur Dankbarkeit (p196) A regional kitchen in a leafy yard off the pink, shimmering
Neusiedler See, plus the best drops from local winegrowers.

Upper Austria
k.u.k. Hofbckerei (p207) Fritz Rath tempts the sweet-toothed with his famous Linzer Torte in
the citys oldest caf.
Knapp am Eck (p213) Down a cobbled lane, this gorgeous tavern serves sage-stuffed pork in
a lantern-lit, ivy-clad garden.
Schlossbrauerei Weinberg (p216) Devour beer-drenched goulash and beer-battered
schnitzel in this cavernous brewpub, hidden in the forest above Kefermarkt.

Styria
Lendplatz farmers markets (p231) The finest out of the Selchkammer (smoke house),
Hartkse (matured cheese), vegetables, breads and flowers from Graz vendors with views.

lonelyplanet.com

FOOD & DRINK Staples & Specialities

Im Weissen Rssl (p261) Braised cheek of veal, colonial sauces, and fine views in two
restaurants overlooking the Wolfgangsee.
Rudolfsturm (p102) Rustic, filling fare while perched some 800m above Hallsttter
See a perfect end to hiking around the lake.

Salzburg & Salzburger Land

Scios Specereyen (p278) Few can resist the blinis with caviar and chocolate-coated
Venusbrstchen (Venus breasts) at Scios.
Afro Caf (p277) Hot-pink walls, wacky artwork and African flavours (such as sticky ostrich
kebabs) make this Salzburgs coolest caf.
Obauer (p286) Karl and Rudi Obauer reach for the Michelin stars, with local fare like Werfen
lamb and trout strudel.

Carinthia
Restaurant Maria Loretto (p294) Stupendous Wrthersee views, plus classic fare from local
trout and schnitzel with cranberries to Carinthian Almo steak.
Zauberhuttn (p294) Mediterranean influenced food, a kitchen full of magicians, and the best
squid conjured up this side of the Alps.
Millsttter See (p308) A romantic dinner for two on a raft on a lake: enjoy a seven course
meal ferried out by to you by waiters on a watery mission.

Hohe Tauern National Park Region

Hlzlahneralm (p317) The Kaspresskndel (dumpling in Pinzgauer cheese) is a meal in itself
at this farmhouse high above Krimml Falls.
Ours Lounge (p316) Glass walls, throne-like red velvet chairs and a menu packed with fusion
flavours draw trendies to the lounge.
Hotel Haidenhof (p326) Locals pile into the South Tyrolean tavern for fresh trout, homemade
strudel and appetising Dolomite views.

Tyrol
Metzgerei Krll (p349) Nip into this family-run butchers for delicious Schlegeis-Speck ham,
cured at 1800m to achieve its aroma.
Stanz (p359) High on a plateau, Stanzs 65 distilleries pack a punch with fiery plum schnapps.
Auracher Lchl (p355) Expect walls festooned with forest animals, low beams and
humungous Schweinshaxe (pork knuckles) at this medieval haunt.

Vorarlberg

Aiola Upstairs (p230) Chilled music, lemongrass risotto and beef, plus a strong wine and
cocktail list and views of Graz from Schlossberg.

Ksestrasse (p374) The dairies lining this road through the Bregenzerwald roll out tasty
cheeses, from creamy Bergkse to walnutty Nussknacker.

Iohan (p231) Gothic vaulting, great wines and food, with Leberpate (liver pt) served at the bar.

Cafesito (p371) Squeeze into this hip caf for chilli hot chocolate and Bregenzs freshest bagels
and smoothies.

Salzkammergut
Restaurant-Pizzeria Simmer (p253) Pizza and a bowling alley out back, and views across the
swampy meadows to Hallsttter See.

without encountering Krbiskernl, a rich, dark pumpkin-seed oil. It is

also home to Austrias Almochsen (shortened to Almo) bulls, delivering
the best beef. In Carinthia, look for Ksnudeln, pasta made into balls and
combined with cheese. Ksnocken, Kssptzle and Ksndel are variations on a the theme. Tyrol specialities include Tiroler Grstl, pan-fried
onions, meat and potatoes, and Tiroler Kndel, dumplings hiding small
pieces of ham.

Wirtschaft zum Schtzenhaus (p376) Schiessen und Geniessen (shoot and enjoy) is the
motto at this half-timbered tavern, with lederhosen-clad staff and enormous schnitzels.

No meal in Austria would be complete without Nachspeise (dessert).

Beating all-comers in the popularity race is the Apfelstrdel, although
Palatschinken (crepes) comes a close second. A speciality for Salzburg is
the Salzburger Nockerl, a fluffy baked pudding made from eggs, flour and
sugar. Germkndel are sourdough dumplings, but more appetising are
Marillenkndel (apricot dumplings). Look for Mohr im Hemd, a chocolate
pudding with whipped cream and chocolate sauce, Guglhupf, a cake shaped

61

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FOOD & DRINK Drinks

lonelyplanet.com

like a volcano, the Sacher Torte in Vienna and the Linzer Torte in Linz. The
ever-present Mozartkugeln (Mozart Balls) are another favourite.

DRINKS

Check out whats

happening in the
Austrian vineyards
and even practice your
Austrian wine terms with
mp3 at www.winesfro
maustria.com.

Nonalcoholic Drinks
Although herbal and black teas are popular, coffee is the preferred hot
beverage, which is drunk mainly in a Kaffeehaus (coffee house) or caf, or
sometimes in a Caf-Konditorei. Strong Turkish coffee is a popular variation in coffee houses. Mineral or soda water is widely available and cheap,
though tap water is fine and for the asking. Almdudler, a cross between
ginger ale and lemonade, is one local soft drink found the country over.
Come September, Traubenmost, a fresh, unfermented grape juice, is available in wine regions.

Alcoholic Drinks

Vienna is the largest

wine-growing city in
the world, although it
produces only 1.4% of
Austrian wine; 91.7% is
produced in the Weinland
region.

The Ultimate Austrian

Wine Guide, by Peter
Moser and published by
Falstaff, is the wine
lovers bible to Austrian
wine. It features a
rundown on wines from
Austria, 200 leading
wineries and is in English.

Although Bier (beer) is by far the most popular drink in Austria, internationally, Wein (wine) outshines the amber fluid. White wine is traditionally
Austrias mainstay, but one-third of the countrys viniculture is now planted
in reds. Austria has four winegrowing regions: Weinland (Lower Austria
and Burgenland; see p195), Steierland (Styria; see p236), Wien (Vienna) and
Bergland (Upper Austria, Salzburg, Carinthia, Tyrol and Vorarlberg). These
bring together 19 different winegrowing areas. Grner Veltliner is the most
common variety, while Sekt is the local bubbly.
Come autumn the whole country goes mad for Sturm new wine in its
semi-fermented state. Its yeasty, highly drinkable, has a kick like a mule, and
hangovers resemble a porcupine waltzing inside your head, but its an absolute must. Staubiger is new wine fully fermented and is more sour and cloudy
than Sturm. Some of the young wines can be a little sharp, so it is common
to mix them with 50% mineral water, called a Gespritzer or Gspritzer.
The perfect place to sample wine and Sturm is a Heurigen or Buschenschank,
Austrias wine taverns. Rustic and rural, these wonderful establishments have
plenty of character and traditionally sell only their own wine, but quite often
youll find stock from outside. Theyre easy to spot; just look for the Buschn
(green wreath or branch) hanging over the front door.
Acidic but pleasant, Most is an alcoholic beverage made from apples or
wild and cultivated pears and similar to cider. Its found almost all over
Austria, but especially in Upper Austria, and in Lower Austria, from where
the fruit-growing Mostviertel region (between the Ybbs and the Enns Rivers)
gets its name.
Austria loves its home-grown beer, which is no surprise considering the
quality. Its usually a light, golden-coloured lager or pilsner (there are dark
versions too), and is produced by breweries across the country. Common
brands include Ottakringer from Vienna, Gsser and Puntigmer from Graz
and Stiegl from Salzburg. Weizenbier (wheat beer), also known as Weissbier
(white beer) has a full-bodied, slightly sweet taste and can be light or dark,
clear or cloudy, and is sometimes served with a slice of lemon straddling
the glass rim. Vom Fass (draught beer) comes in a either a 0.5L or a 0.3L
glass. In Vienna and some other parts of eastern Austria these are called
respectively a Krgerl (sometimes spelled Krgel) and a Seidel. Elsewhere
these will simply be Grosse (big) or Kleine (small). A small beer may also be
called a Glas (glass). A Pfiff is just 0.125L, which will probably satisfy you
for all of two seconds. Radler is a mix of beer and lemonade.
Austrians have a soft spot for Schnapps, made from a variety of fruits and
sometimes called Obstler. Some of the countrys better drops can be bought
at Bauernmrkte (farmers markets) across the country.

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FOOD & DRINK Celebrations

63

MORE THAN JUST COFFEE

Legend has it that coffee beans were left behind by the fleeing Turks in 1683, however the tradition of the Viennese Kaffeehaus developed in the 19th century, when their numbers reached
a reputed 600 cafs.
When ordering a cup of the brown stuff, a coffee, please doesnt suffice. Make your choice
from the many types, and this will generally be served on a silver platter accompanied by a glass
of water, and if youre lucky, a small sweet.
Heres what youll generally find on offer:
Brauner black but served with a tiny splash of milk; comes in Gross (large) or Klein (small)
Einspnner with whipped cream, served in a glass
Fiaker Verlngerter with rum and whipped cream
Kapuziner with a little milk and perhaps a sprinkling of grated chocolate
Maria Theresia with orange liqueur and whipped cream
Masagran (or Mazagran) cold coffee with ice and Maraschino liqueur
Melange the Viennese classic; served with milk, and maybe whipped cream too, similar to
the cappuccino
Mocca (sometimes spelled Mokka) or Schwarzer black coffee
Phariser strong Mocca topped with whipped cream, served with a glass of rum
Trkische comes in a copper pot with coffee grounds and sugar
Verlngerter Brauner weakened with hot water
Wiener Eiskaffee cold coffee with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream

CELEBRATIONS
Austrian cuisine very much follows the seasons. Game, an integral part of
most menus throughout the year, really comes into its own in autumn, when
most of the hunting takes place. Expect to find Hirsch (venison), Wildschwein
(wild boar), Gems (chamois) and Reh (roe deer) on menus around this
time. Come early autumn, the hills and forests are crawling with Austrians,
with their bums up and their heads down, searching for Schwammerl/Pilze
(mushrooms). In May, its hard to avoid Spargel (asparagus), but why would
you want to miss this crisp, freshly picked stick of goodness? Its often served
with a rich, creamy sauce.
St Martins Day (November 11) is traditionally marked with the serving
of Gans (goose), St Martins symbol. The tasty dish is available the entire
month of November. Just before Weihnachten (Christmas), you might like
to check whats splashing in the bathtub before you dip a toe the Central
European tradition of keeping a live Karpfen (carp) in store for Christmas
festivities is not unknown in Austria. Seasonal celebrations are complemented
with Vanillekipferl, crescent cookies which have a special place in the hearts
of all Austrians.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

Restaurants are by far the most common place to eat. Quite often a rural
inn will call itself a Gasthof or Gasthaus to denote a more traditional setting
and dcor. Restaurants usually open from 11am or 11.30am to midnight
(kitchen till 10.30pm); some close the kitchen, or even the premises, during
downtime from 2.30pm to 5pm or 6pm.
Heurigen are fairly inexpensive places to eat in wine areas and the capital.
Food is usually buffet style and consists of hearty, Austrian cuisine, and is

Ewald Plachutta and

Christoph Wagner put
together their favourite
Austrian dishes in The 100
Classic Dishes of Austria,
published by Deuticke.

Legend has it that the

origin of the humble
bagel dates back to 1683,
when a Viennese baker
created a Beugal (stirrup)
for Polish King Jan III
Sobieski in celebration of
his victory over the Turks.

64

F O O D & D R I N K Ve g e t a r i a n s & Ve g a n s

The Wiener schnitzel is

not in fact from Vienna;
it was brought back to
the capital from Milan
in 1848 by Field Marshal
Radetzkys chief cook.

lonelyplanet.com

available from around 11am to 11pm. Take note that a Kaffeehaus (coffee
house) or Caf is very different from a Caf-Konditorei. A coffee house/caf
serves coffee, tea and other beverages, as well as light warm and cold meals
and sometimes a few pastries and cakes. By contrast, a Caf-Konditorei specialises in cakes, often baked on the premises, and will usually serve coffee
too. While it is customary to linger for hours, read the newspapers from the
racks, drink a wine or beer and play chess or cards in a coffee house/caf,
this would be out of line in a Caf-Konditorei. Hours tend to be different
too. A Caf-Konditorei keeps close to standard shop hours, whereas coffee
houses and cafs open their doors early, often between 7am and 8am, and
close from anything between 7pm and 1am, depending on the market theyre
catering to, or even morph into very late-night drinking dens.
In mountainous areas, Htte or Almhtte (alpine huts) are atmospheric
places for basic Austrian cuisine in stunning surroundings.

Quick Eats
If you need something in a hurry, a Wrstel Stand (sausage stand) is never too
far away. Deli shops sometimes offer hot food, such as spit-roasted chicken
(an Austrian favourite). Supermarket delis will always have sandwiches for
those on the run.

VEGETARIANS & VEGANS

Food history, wine
glossary and menu guide;
its all here under one
website: www
.globalgourmet.com
/destinations/austria.

Vegetarians will do just fine in Vienna, and in Austrias other large cities
there are at least a couple of vegetarian restaurants to choose from. In the
countryside however, things can get extremely meaty. Many places now offer
at least one vegetarian dish, but dont count on it every time; you may have
to rely on a combination of salads and side dishes to create a full meal. Note
that most soups are made with meat stock.

EATING WITH KIDS

Feeding the little uns will prove no problem in Austria; in general, only the
very upmarket restaurants have a problem with children. Some restaurants
have childrens menus but most will be willing to serve smaller portions if
you ask nicely.
See p383 for more on travelling with children.

HABITS & CUSTOMS

Get Elisabeth MayerBrownes take on the

Austrian kitchen in the
Best of Austrian Cuisine,
published by Hippocrene.

In general, Austrians are a polite and respectable bunch at the table, and
tend to take their time over meals. More often than not, the next course
will not be served until everyone at the table has finished, so dont ramble
on to your neighbour while the rest of the diners are waiting. Nonsmokers
(and some smokers) may be annoyed with smoking habits in restaurants;
many smokers wont bat an eyelid lighting up while youre still only half way
through your Wiener schnitzel.
Austrians certainly like a drink, and the country has its fair share of
teenage binge drinkers and alcoholics, but your average Austrian tends to
take his or her time getting sozzled. Every drink bought deserves a Prost
(cheers) and eye contact with your fellow drinkers; not following this custom is thought of as rude. Even worse, its believed to result in bad sex for
the next seven years.

COOKING COURSES
Places offering cooking courses are rather thin on the ground, but if youre
keen to learn how to bread a schnitzel the Austrian way, or roll the perfect
Kndel, there are a few places in Vienna to check out:

lonelyplanet.com

FOOD & DRINK Eat Your Words

Babettes (Map pp116-17;%01-585 51 65; www.babettes.at, in German; 04, Schleifmhlgasse

17; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat) A food-lovers dream, with a zillion cookbooks and
spices, plus cooking courses to boot.
Hollerei (Map pp116-17;%01-892 33 56; www.hollerei.at, in German; 15, Hollergasse 9;
hMon-Sat) Conducts regular courses on veg cooking with style.
Restaurant zur Traube (%02738-229 80; [email protected]; Kleine Zeile 13-17, 3483
Feuersbrunn) In rural Feuersbrunn (a short hop from Vienna). Offers seminars and courses almost
weekly on Austrian and international cuisine.
Wrenkh Kochsalon & Restaurant (Map pp120-1;%01-533 15 26; www.wrenkh.at, in
German; 01, Bauernmarkt 10; hlunch & dinner) Runs some unusual courses: its Zurufkche
(cooking calling) consists of lining up an array of ingredients and experimenting in style and
dish, while Kochsalon courses are group cooking events whose multicourse outcome you enjoy
together.
In Styria, try the Erste Steirische Kochschule (%03135-522 47; www.kochschule.at, in
German; Hauptstrasse 168) in Kalsdorf, or Gasthof Vitalpension Hubinger (%03861-81
14; www.hubinger.com; 8633 Etmissl 25) in Etmissl for traditional Austrian cooking
courses.

EAT YOUR WORDS

Want to know your Germkndel from your Grammelkndel? Your Wiener
Bachhendl from your Wiener schnitzel? Get behind the cuisine scene, by
getting to know the language.

Useful Phrases
Can you recommend ...?
Knnen Sie ... empfehlen?

ker-nen zee ... emp-fay-len

a restaurant
ein Restaurant

ain res-to-rang

a bar/pub
eine Kneipe

ai-ne knai-pe

A table for ..., please.

Einen Tisch fr ..., bitte.

ai-nen tish fr bi-te

Id like to reserve a table for ...

Ich mchte einen Tisch fr ... reservieren. ikh merkh-te ai-nen tish fr ... re-zer-vee-ren

(two) people
(zwei) Personen

(tsvai) per-zaw-nen

(eight) oclock
(acht) Uhr

(akt) oor

Do you have ...?

Haben Sie ...?

hah-ben zee ...?

a menu in English
eine englische Speisekarte

ai-ne eng-li-she shpai-ze-kar-te

vegetarian food
vegetarisches Essen

ve-ge-tah-ri-shes e-sen

What would you recommend?

Was empfehlen Sie?

vas emp-fay-len zee

Id like a local speciality.

Ich mchte etwas Typisches aus der Region. ikh merkh-te et-vas ti-pi-shes ows dair re-gyawn

Id like the set menu, please.

Ich htte gerne das Tagesmen, bitte.

ikh ha-te ger-ne das ta-ges- me-noo bi-te

What are the daily specials?

Was sind die Tagesspezialitten?

vas zind dee ta-gez-spe-tsya-lee-te-ten

65

Classic dishes and their

recipes can be found
on the English website
www.austrianfoodand
wine.com.

66

FOOD & DRINK Eat Your Words

lonelyplanet.com

Im a vegetarian.
Ich bin Vegetarier(in). (m/f )

ikh bin ve-ge-tah-ri-e-r/ve-ge-tah-ri-e-rin

Is it cooked in meat stock?

Ist es in Fleischbrhe?

ist es in flaish-br-e

Whats in that dish?

Was ist in diesem Gericht?

vas ist in dee-zem ge-rikht

Id like ..., please.

Ich mchte ..., bitte.

ikh merkh-te ... bi-te

Can I have some more ... please.

Bitte noch ein ...

bi-te nokh ain ...

That was delicious!

Das war sehr lecker!

das vahr zair le-ker

The bill, please.

Die Rechnung, bitte.

dee rekh-nung, bi-te

Bon apptit.
Gten Appetit.

goo-ten a-pe-teet

Cheers!
Prost! prawst!

lonelyplanet.com

duck
eel
fish
goose
ham
hare
lamb
liver
minced meat
plaice
pork
salmon
tongue
trout
tuna
turkey
veal
venison

Ente
Aal
Fisch
Gans
Schinken
Hase
Lamm
Leber
Hackfleisch
Scholle
Schweinsfleisch
Lachs
Zunge
Forelle
Thunfisch
Puter
Kalbfleisch
Hirsch

FOOD & DRINK Eat Your Words

en-te
ahl
fish
gans
shing-ken
hah-ze
lam
lay-ber
hak-flaish
sho-le
shvai-ne-flaish
laks
tsung-e
fo-re-le
toon-fish
poo-ter
kalp-flaish
hirsh

Menu Decoder
SOUPS & STARTERS

VEGETABLES & FRUIT

Frittattensuppe (free-ta-ten-zu-pe) clear soup with chives and strips of pancake

Leberkndelsuppe (lay-ber-kner-del-zu-pe) liver dumpling soup
Rindsuppe (rind-zu-pe) clear beef soup

apple
apricot
asparagus
banana
beans
beetroot
cabbage
carrots
cherries
corn
cucumber,
gherkin
garlic
grapes
green beans
mushrooms

MAINS

Backhendl (bakh-hen-del) fried breaded chicken

Bauernschmaus (bow-ern-shmows) platter of cold meats
Grammelkndel (gra-mel-kner-del) pork dumplings
Gulasch/Gulas (goo-lash/goo-las) thick beef soup
Schinkenfleckerl (shin-ken-flek-erl) oven-baked ham and noodle casserole
Schweinsbraten (shvains-bra-ten) roast pork
Semmelkndel (ze-mel-kner-del) bread dumplings
Stelze (shtel-tse) roast hock
Tafelspitz (ta-fel-spits) boiled beef, potatoes and horseradish sauce
Tiroler Grstl (tee-ro-ler grer-stel) potatoes, onions and flecks of meat fried in a pan
Wiener schnitzel (vee-ner shni-tsel) breaded veal cutlets (sometimes with pork or turkey)
Zwiebelrostbraten (tswee-bel-rost-bra-ten) roast beef slices with gravy and fried onions
DESSERTS

Apfelstrdel (ap-fel-stroo-del) apple strudel

Germkndel (jairm-kner-del) yeast dumplings with poppy seeds
Kaiserschmarrn (kai-zer-shmar-ren) sweet pancake with raisins
Marillenkndel (ma-ree-len-kner-del) apricot dumplings
Mohr im Hemd (morr im hemd) chocolate pudding with whipped cream and chocolate sauce
Palatschinken (pa-lat-shing-ken) crepes
Topfenkndel (top-fen-kner-del) cheese dumplings

Food Glossary

onions
pear
peas
peppers
pineapple
plums
potatoes
raspberries
spinach
strawberries
tomatoes

Apfel
Marille/Aprikose
Spargel
Banane
Bohnen
Rote Rbe
Kohl
Karotten
Kirschen
Mais

ap-fel
ma-ree-le/a-pri-ko-ze
shpar-gel
ba-nah-ne
baw-nen
raw-te- r-be
hawl
ka-ro-ten
kir-shen
mais

Gurke
Knoblauch
Trauben
Fisolen
Champignons/
Schwammerl/Pilze
Zwiebeln
Birne
Erbsen
Paprika
Ananas
Zwetschgen
Erdpfel/Kartoffeln
Himbeeren
Spinat
Erdbeeren
Paradeiser/Tomaten

gur-ke
knawp-lowkh
trow-ben
fee-zo-len
sham-pee-nyon/
shva-mer/pil-tse
tsvee-beln
bir-ne
erp-sen
pap-ri-kah
a-na-nas
tsvetsh-gen
ert-ep-fel/kar-to-feln
him-bee-ren
shpi-naht
ert-bee-ren
pa-ra-dai-ser/to-mah-ten

Brot
Semmel
Butter
Kse

brawt
ze-mel
bu-ter
kay-ze

MEAT & FISH

bacon
beef
brains
carp
chicken

Speck
Rindfleisch
Hirn
Karpfen
Huhn/Hendl

shpek
rint-flaish
heern
karp-fen
hoon/hen-dl

OTHER ITEMS

bread
bread roll
butter
cheese

67

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FOOD & DRINK Eat Your Words

chocolate
coffee
cream
dumplings
eggs
honey
jam
mustard
nut
oil
pepper
rice
salad
salt
sugar

Schokolade
Kaffee
Schlagobers/
Rahm/Sahne
Kndel
Eier
Honig
Marmelade
Senf
Nuss
l
Pfeffer
Reis
Salat
Salz
Zucker

lonelyplanet.com

sho-ko-lah-de
ka-fay
shlag-o-berz/
rahm/zah-ne
kner-del
ai-er
haw-nikh
mar-me-lah-de
zenf
nus
erl
pfe-fer
rais
za-laht
zalts
tsu-ker

COOKING TERMS

baked
boiled
crispy
fresh
fried
grilled
homemade
roasted
steamed
smoked
sour
sweet

gebacken
gekocht
knusprig
frisch
gebraten
gegrillte
selbst gemacht
braten
gedmpft
geruchert
sauer
sss

ge-ba-ken
ge-kokht
k-noo-sprik
frish
ge-brah-ten
ge-grilt
selbst ge-makht
bra-ten
ge-dempft
ge-roy-khert
zow-er
zs

Aschenbecher
Tasse
Gabel
Glas
Messer
Teller
Lffel
Zahnstocher

a-shen-be-kher
ta-se
gah-bel
glahs
me-ser
te-ler
ler-fel
tsahn-shto-kher

UTENSILS

ashtray
cup
fork
glass
knife
plate
spoon
toothpick

69

Environment
Landlocked in the heart of Europe, Austria may be small but shes a country
magnet, surrounded by Germany, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary,
Slovenia, Italy, Switzerland and Liechtenstein. Despite her diminutive size,
shes an astounding natural beauty who revels in diversity: from the green
vines of Burgenland to Lower Austrias castle-speckled hills, Tyrols voluptuous mountains to the pure lakes of Salzkammergut. In topographic terms,
its as though someone chalked a line straight down the middle and asked
all the Alps to shuffle to the west and all the flats to slide to the east, so stark
is the contrast in this land of highs and lows.

THE LAND
Think of Austria and invariably the first thing to pop into your head are
mountains. Of the 83,858 sq km of land squeezed within Austrias borders
almost two-thirds are mountainous. The glaciers that began carving up the
landscape some 2 million years ago played a big hand in softly sculpting
the countrys distinctive shape of mountains, valleys and lakes.
Austrias Alps can be split into three mountain ranges running in a
westeast direction. The Northern Limestone Alps, bordering Germany,
reach nearly 3000m and extend almost as far east as the Wienerwald (Vienna
Woods). The valley of the Inn River separates them from the High or
Central Alps, the highest peaks in Austria dwarfed by the majestic summit
of Grossglockner (3797m). The Southern Limestone Alps, which include the
Karawanken Range, form a natural barrier with Italy and Slovenia.
The rest of the country is a mixed bag of alpine foothills, lowlands and
granite highlands. By far the most fertile stretch is the Danube Valley, growing 90% of Austrias food. In the northeast the landscape switches to rolling
hills and dense forest, thinning out to the east in the pancake-flat Pannonian
plains. What these regions lack in mind-blowing scenery they make up for
with mile upon mile of vineyards and farmland.
Austrias greatest feature outside the Alps is the thoroughly un-blue
Danube (Donau), flowing westeast from Germany through the Danube
Valley and Vienna, and eventually exiting in Slovakia. Joining the Danube
as it enters Austria is the turquoise Inn River. To the southeast, the main
waterways are the Mur and the Drau.
Aside from rivers, Austria is riddled with lakes and its hard to move
without toppling into one in the Salzkammergut region and Carinthia. The
countrys most unusual lake is Neusiedler See in Burgenland, Austrias lowest
point (115m) and one of Europes few steppe lakes. Its an outdoorsy haven
for ornithologists, water-sport fanatics and cyclists.

WILDLIFE
Austria has abundant wildlife and while youd be lucky to glimpse an elusive lynx or golden eagle in the Alps, theres a good chance you might spy
marmots, chamois and ibex. Bird-watchers flock to the banks of Neusiedler
See to spot the 150 different species of birds that breed in the area. During
the Europe-Africa migration period, the same number of species drop in on
the lake during their flight south.

Animals
The critters of Austrias alpine regions are the most intriguing for visitors.
There youll find the ibex, a mountain goat with curved horns, which was

www.naturschutz.at is a
one-stop shop for info on
Austrias landscape, flora
and fauna. Its in German,
but there are a few links
to English sites too.

Get your skates on at

Neusiedler See. When
the salt lake freezes it
becomes Central Europes
biggest natural ice rink,
beckoning anyone that
fancies a teeth-chattering
twirl.

Cameras and binoculars

at the readyKaiserFranz-Josefs-Hhe in the
Hohe Tauern National
Park is a prime place to
spot ibex, chamois and
marmots in the late
afternoon.

70

E N V I R O N M E N T W i l d l i fe

A right pair of love birds,

golden eagles stay
together for life. See
www.birdlife.at, in
German, to find out
more about these
elusive raptors and
other Austrian birdlife.

lonelyplanet.com

at one stage under threat but fortunately is now breeding again. Its the
master of mountain climbing and migrates to 3000m or more come July.
The chamois, a small antelope more common than the ibex, is equally at
home scampering around on mountain sides. It can leap an astounding 4m
vertically and its hooves have rubber-like soles and rigid outer rims ideal
for maintaining a good grip on loose rocks.
The marmot, a fluffy rodent related to the squirrel, is also indigenous to
the Alps. Its a sociable animal that lives in colonies of about two dozen members. Like meerkats, marmots regularly post sentries, which stand around
on their hind legs looking alert. They whistle once when a predator from
the air (like an eagle) and twice when a predator from the ground (such as
a fox) is approaching and the whole tribe scurries to safety down a network
of burrows. Winged fauna in the Alps include golden eagles, vultures both
bearded and griffin and a multitude of colourful butterflies.
In the east the picture is completely different. The Neusiedler See, a large
steppe lake, is a unique sanctuary for numerous species of bird. Commonly
spotted are avocets, Eurasian curlews, yellow wagtails, short-eared owls,
great bustards and white storks.
ENDANGERED SPECIES

Like most European countries, Austria has its fair share of endangered species, including the countrys flagship species below those that stand out
in a list thats far too long. For more information, consult the Rote Liste (red
list; www.umweltbundesamt.at), a comprehensive list of endangered species
collated by the Umweltbundesamt (Federal Environment Agency).
Austrias most endangered species is the Bayerische Kurzohrmaus
(Bavarian pine vole), which is endemic to Tyrol and found only in six
localities. Following close behind is the Kaiseradler (imperial eagle), at one
time extinct in Austria but fortunately staging a comeback through reimmigration. The Triel (stone curlew), a rare bird found only in eastern
Austria, is also under threat, as is the Europische Sumpfschildkrte (European
pond terrapin), which inhabits the Danube floodplains. The Europische
Hornotter (long-nosed viper) may be a venomous snake at home in Carinthia,
but humans are a far greater threat to its survival than its bite will ever be
to our survival.
Although still teetering on the brink of extinction, the countrys population of brown bears now reaches double figures (estimated at around
15 to 20). This is due to the efforts of organisations like Austrias Brown
Bear Life Project and the WWF who have invested millions of euros into
bringing the bear back to the Alps. While rarely sighted, brown bears
are said to roam in central and southern mountainous regions such as
Carinthia and Styria.

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flowers are protected and should not be picked, many young, love-struck
men have risked life and limb to bring such a flower to the lady of their
choice. Delicate orchids, arnica, alpine roses and purple gentian also carpet
the slopes in summer.
Of particular note again is the Unesco biosphere reserve of Neusiedler
See, whose western shores are lined with a vast, almost impenetrable belt
of reeds.

NATIONAL PARKS
For a country of such extraordinary natural beauty, it may come as a surprise
to learn that only 2.9% of Austria falls within the boundaries of national
parks. Within this 2.9%, commercial operations such as traditional farming and hunting, are still ongoing. However, the national park authorities
have managed to strike a good balance between preserving the natural
wildlife and keeping local economic endeavours alive. The website www
.nationalparksaustria.at has links to all six national parks and a brochure in
English to download.
Of Austrias national parks, Hohe Tauern National Park is the most
spectacular and frequented hands-down. Neusiedler See-Seewinkel takes
second place, due to its closeness to Vienna and the plethora of water sports
activities available there.
Aside from the countrys national parks, protected areas and reserves are
dotted all over Austria and land protected by nature conservation law totals
a more impressive 35.5%, which covers landscapes from forest to the Alps
and Pannonian steppe.

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

AUSTRIAS NATIONAL PARKS

Park (area)

Features

Activities

Best Time to Visit

Page

Donau-Auen (93 sq km)

floodplains, meadows,
still rivers; beavers,
turtles, catfish
mountains, gorges,
meadows, forests;
owls, eagles, falcons,
woodpeckers
mountains; ibex,
marmots, bearded
vultures, golden
eagles
forests, gorges,
mountains; lynx,
golden eagles, owls,
woodpeckers
saline steppe lake, salt
marshes; storks, great
bustards, avocets, owls
rocky outcrops, virgin
forest; otters, eagles,
storks, bats

walking, cycling,
boating

summer

p180

rock climbing, hiking,

rafting, caving,
mountain biking

spring,
summer,
autumn

p243

hiking, rock &

mountain climbing,
skiing, canyoning,
kayaking, paragliding
cycling, hiking,
rock climbing, crosscountry skiing

year-round

p310

year-round

p213

sailing, swimming,
cycling, walking,
bird-watching
walking

summer

p193

spring,
summer,
autumn

p178

Gesuse (110 sq km)

Hohe Tauern (1787 sq km)

Kalkalpen (210 sq km)

Neusiedler SeeSeewinkel (97 sq km)

Thayatal (13 sq km)

71

The Dreildereck in
Villach, Carinthia, is the
point where Austria,
Slovenia and Italy meet.
Its quite an experience
to hike to the summit
and kick back in three
countries at the same
time.

On the whole, Austrians are an ecofriendly bunch who treat their backyard
better than most nations. Theyre well informed about environmental issues
and the government, which spends 3% of its Gross Domestic Product (GDP)

Plants
An incredible 47% of Austria is forested, making it one of the most wooded
countries in Europe. At low altitudes expect to find shady oak and beech
forests; at higher elevations conifers, such as pine, spruce and larch, take
over. At around 2200m trees yield to alpine meadows and beyond 3000m,
only mosses and lichens cling to the stark crags.
A highlight of the Alps is its flowers, which add a palette of colour to the
high pastures from June to September. The flowers here are built to cope
with harsh conditions: long roots counter strong winds, bright colours
attract few insects and specially developed leaves protect against frost and
dehydration. By far the most popular is the edelweiss, which is a white,
star-shaped flower found on rocky crags and crevices. Although most alpine

E N V I R O N M E N T N a t i o n a l Pa r k s

72

ENVIRONMENT Environmental Issues

Melting ice is a hot topic

in the Hohe Tauern
National Park. The
Pasterze Glacier has
shrunk to half its size
over the past 150 years
and is predicted to
disappear entirely within
100 years.

Want to know more

about Austrian ski resorts
stepping up efforts to
save the environment?
Check out www
.saveoursnow.com.

lonelyplanet.com

on environmental measures, has happily signed international agreements

to reduce pollution and preserve natural resources. See the Getting Started
chapter (p21) for practical tips on limiting environmental impact.
Recycling is big in this country; Austrians are diligent about separating
recycling material from other waste, and the practice is very much ingrained
in society. Youll see recycling bins for metal, paper, plastics and glass on
many street corners, and most neighbourhoods have stations for hazardous
materials. Some glass containers, in particular beer bottles, have a return
value that can be claimed at supermarkets; look for Flaschen Rcknahme
(bottle return) machines.
Measures have been in place for years to protect the fragile ecosystem
of alpine regions, yet some forest degradation has taken place due to air
and soil pollution caused by emissions from industrial plants, exhaust
fumes and the use of agricultural chemicals. The government has moved to
minimise such pollutants by banning leaded petrol, assisting businesses in
waste avoidance and promoting natural forms of energy, such as wind and
solar power. Wind farms are prevalent in the flat plains in the east of the
country and home owners are encouraged through tax breaks to install solar
panels. Some buses are gas powered and environmentally friendly trams are
a feature of many cities.
One of Austrias biggest environmental concerns is not within the countrys sphere of control. In 1978, Austrians voted against developing a nuclear
power industry, prompting the federal Nuclear Prohibition Law. The Czech
Republic thought otherwise, and in 2000 its Temeln nuclear reactor was
brought online just 60km from the Austrian border. Many environmentalists were appalled and their concerns were not unfounded; 2002 saw shutdowns, due to faulty valves and a pipe being welded on incorrectly. While
no radiation leaks have yet been reported, environmental agencies believe it
is only a matter of time. Border blockades and protests flared again in 2007
when the Czech government announced intentions to withdraw from the
bilateral Melk Agreement, which monitors the power stations safety and
environmental impact. The dispute is ongoing.

GREENER SHADE OF WHITE

In a bid to offset the impact of skiing, plenty of Austrian resorts are now taking the green
run by implementing ecofriendly policies. The following are green giants that aim to tread
lightly:
Lech (p379) in Vorarlberg scores top points for its biomass communal heating plant, the
photovoltaic panels that operate its chairlifts and its strict recycling policies.
Zell am See (p313) launched Austrias first ISO-certified cable car at the Kitzsteinhorn glacier.
It operates a free ski bus in winter and runs an ecological tree and grass planting
scheme.
Kitzbhel (p351) operates green building and climate policies and is taking measures to
reduce traffic and the use of non-renewable energy sources.
St Anton am Arlberg (p362) shows its green streak by creating protected areas to reduce
erosion and pumping out artificial snow without chemicals. Its excellent train connections
mean fewer cars.
Ischgl (p360) uses renewable energy, recycles in all hotels, lifts and restaurants and has a
night-time driving ban from 11pm to 6am.
Mayrhofen (p348) operates its lifts on hydroelectricity, separates all waste and has free ski
buses to reduce traffic in the village.

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ENVIRONMENT Environmental Issues

73

SEPP HOLZER: THE REBEL FARMER

With its steep inclines and average temperature of 4.2C, Ramingstein in Salzburger Land has been
dubbed Austrias Siberia cold and inhospitable. Yet precisely the reverse is true at Krameterhof,
where kiwis, figs and lemons hang heavy on the trees at an elevation of 1500m. The greenfingered brainchild of this alpine Garden of Eden is Sepp Holzer, alias the rebel farmer. His
concept is permaculture using self-sustaining agricultural systems. Once planted, Holzer does not
weed, water, prune or use pesticides. Theres no need nature is perfect, he says. Its humans
that make the mistakes.
An inquisitive child, Holzer observed and experimented with nature to discover that: every
leaf, every stone, every plant, every insect has an important role to play. Together with his wife,
he runs the 50-hectare farm according to self-sufficient ecosystems; there are terraces to reduce
erosion and catch rain, rocks to trap and emit heat, and foraging pigs to till the wheat fields.
Carrots and lettuces grow wildly here not in ruler-straight lines and the cherries are plump despite
25cm of new snow a few days ago. I work with nature, not against it, Holzer shrugs. And the
results are clear: 18 times the average yield using 10% of the energy.
Holzer has scattered the seeds of permaculture far and wide, with international projects including a self-sufficient orphanage in Thailand and a recultivation programme in Scotland. But its
not all been a bed of roses back home. People have branded me a liar, a mad farmer that says
Guten Morgen to the rain worms. I dont talk to worms, but I do try to put myself in the place
of animals and plants to consider what they like and need. He has been fined and threatened
for planting cereal crops in the forest, but sticks to his guns against monoculture. Deer eat bark
from randomly chosen trees because they feel trapped and instinctively know that if trees fall,
light will allow other species to grow. Others mock me, but my forest is still standing when a
storm comes. Anyone that thinks they are above nature or can control it is a fool.
In his summer seminars (see www.krameterhof.at, in German), Holzer encourages people to
abandon textbook theories and open their eyes to what nature is telling them; the philosophy
is careful thought, minimal action. Children should grow up understanding that earth is not
dirt but the foundations of life, Holzer stresses. Its time to stop the social brainwashing and
show some civil courage. Those that dont are slaves in their own farms, he adds. Theres no
doubting the wisdom in Holzers words or the method in his madness. He may be a rebel, but
he does have a cause.

With global warming on the increase, Austrias ski pistes are on the decrease. A UNEP report on climate change published in 2007 warned that rising temperatures could mean that 75% of alpine glaciers will disappear within
the next 45 years, and that dozens of low-lying ski resorts such as Kitzbhel
(760m) will be completely cut off from their slopes by 2030. Forecasts suggest
that the snowline will shift from 1200m to 1800m by 2100, a prediction that
is supported by recent mild winters in the Alps. As well as the impact on
Austrias tourist industry, the melting snow is sure to have other knock-on
effects, including erosion, floods and an increased risk of avalanches.
Austrias lucrative ski industry is a double-edged sword; on the one hand
resorts face mounting pressure to develop and build higher up on the peaks
to survive, while on the other their very survival is threatened by global
warming. For many years, ski resorts have not done the planet many favours:
mechanically grading pistes disturbs wildlife and causes erosion, artificial
snow affects native flora and fauna, and trucking in snow increases emissions. However, many Austrian resorts (see opposite) now realise that they
are walking a thin tightrope and are mitigating their environmental impact
with renewable hydroelectric power, biological wastewater treatment and
ecological buildings.

Take the plunge at

Montafons Mountain
Beach (www.mountain
beach.at, in German).
The award-winning
complex is the last word
in eco-bathing, sheltering
two enormous pools filled
with spring water and
cleaned by microorganisms.

74

lonelyplanet.com

Outdoor Activities
A great introduction to
the never-ending list of
outdoor activities on offer
in Austria is the national
tourist boards website
www.austria.info, in
German.

Austria is a great place to get into the outdoors, with a gigantic backyard
full of spiky peaks, clear lakes and raging rivers custom-made for vigorous
activities. Skiing and walking (p82) are perennial favourites and share the
limelight with gravity-defying sports designed to make you scream. Feeling
daring? Catch thermals with a parachute or abseil down a waterfall, bounce
down the Alps in a snow tube or on the back of a bone-shaking mountain
bike.
If that sounds too hair-raising, theres drama to be had in silent moves
swishing through frozen woodlands on cross-country trails and finding
your (very big) feet in a pair of snowshoes. Snow or shine, this country
is hyperactive.

WINTER Skiing & Snowboarding

buying half-/full-/multiple-day passes. Count on around 25 to 40 for a

one-day ski pass, with substantial reductions for longer-term passes.
Rental prices for carving skis, stocks and shoes are around 20 to 35 for
one day for downhill skiing, with reduced rates offered over longer periods;
snowboards are roughly the same as carving skis. Most ski resorts have one
or more ski schools. Individual tuition and group lessons are available and
will normally set you back around 250/60 per day respectively. The more
days you take, the cheaper it gets.

Ski Regions & Resorts

The following are the pick of Austrias ski regions and resorts, but theyre
just a taste of whats up there. Weekly ski passes are quoted here at highseason rates; check with local tourist offices or turn to the regional chapters
for details on possible discounts.
SPORTWELT AMAD (SALZBURGER LAND)

WINTER
SKIING & SNOWBOARDING

Get your skates on in

Vienna for the Friday
night skate sessions
from May to September.
Like-minded bladers
meet up at 10pm on
Heldenplatz. For route
details, see www
.fridaynightskating.at,
in German.

Go to Austria in winter and youll find that skiing and snowboarding still
top the list of ways to amuse yourself with an enormous pile of snow. The
Austrian Alps are fine specimens of mountains: high enough for one to hurl
down black runs in big resorts like Mayrhofen (p348), low enough to give
beginners the skitterbug on the nursery slopes in chocolate-box villages such
as Filzmoos (p286). Almost every Austrian you meet has skied since they
were knee-high and the average four-year-old will ski circles around you on
the slopes. The best skiing is in the western reaches of the country, though
most resorts in the Alps have T-bars, lifts and cable cars.
While this book features plenty of skiing information, its not a dedicated
skiing guide. Austria has hundreds of excellent ski resorts and no attempt
has been made to cover them exhaustively. Many are now taking steps to
improve their green credentials and minimise their impact on the environment (p72). For a detailed rundown of resorts based primarily on skiing
criteria, consult a specialist book or magazine, such as the UKs The Good
Skiing & Snowboarding Guide. More information on ski resorts can be provided by sterreich Werbung (p391) and the resort tourist offices.

Information
The skiing season kicks off in December and lasts till late April in the highaltitude resorts. The biggest crowds descend on the slopes at ChristmasNew Year and in February half-term holidays. May to June and late October
to mid-December fall between the summer and winter seasons. Some cable
cars will be closed for maintenance and many hotels and restaurants will be
shut, but youll avoid the crowds and find prices at their lowest.
Austria offers some of the finest year-round skiing in the Alps at eight
glaciers: Dachstein, Mlltaler, Hintertuxer (p349), Pitztaler, Kaunertaler,
Slden (p357), Kitzsteinhorn-Kaprun (p313) and Stubaier (p345). However,
most alpine glaciers are now receding in the face of global warming, and
snow coverage is less secure at lower elevations in early and late season.
Vorarlberg, Salzburger Land and Tyrol are the most popular destinations, but there is also skiing in Upper Austria, Carinthia and even Lower
Austria. Ski passes cover the cost of mountain transport, including ski
buses between the ski areas. Pass prices for little-known places may be as
little as half that charged in the jet-set resorts. Youre usually better off

75

Salzburgs Sportwelt Amad (www.sportwelt-amade.com) lures skiers

with a whopping 865km of snow-sure slopes in 25 resorts. Among them
are Radstadt (p287) and Filzmoos (p286). Filzmoos lies at the foot of the
Dachstein massif and is a low-key, family-oriented resort with gentle skiing and village charm. The ski schools are in the heart of the resort, lift
queues are short and the pistes uncrowded. Off-slope activities include
50km of winter walking trails and romantic horse-drawn sleigh rides. A
weekly pass is 196.

Tee time! Austrias golfing

pros give a whole new
meaning to the word
snowball when they hit
the powder for the World
Golf Championships in
Abtenau near Salzburg in
February.

EUROPA SPORTREGION (HOHE TAUERN NATIONAL PARK)

The vibrant resorts of Zell am See and Kaprun (p312) form the Europa
Sportregion (www.europasportregion.info) and share 132km of pistes. The
Schmittenhhe challenges experts on nine black runs, while the gentle
slopes of the Maiskogel are suited to families and novices. Out-of-season
skiing is possible at Kitzsteinhorn glacier and snowboarders should check
out the rails, kickers and boxes at the plateau. With its belle poque hotels
and attractive lakefront, Zell am See retains an authentic feel unlike many
purpose-built resorts. The entire region affords gorgeous views of the glaciercapped Hohe Tauern mountain range. A six-day pass costs 179.
SILVRETTA ARENA-ISCHGL (TYROL)

Located in the Paznauntal, Ischgl (p360) forms part of the Silvretta Arena
and is swiftly carving its name as Ibiza in the Alps, thanks to its vibrant
aprs-ski and clubbing. The powder is good, the lifts are ultramodern and
the skiing mostly intermediate, with 230km of pistes for powder junkies to
play on. Those seeking big air should check out the half-pipe and snowboarding park. The Silvretta Ski Pass costs 247 for seven days; it covers
not only Ischgl, but also the neighbouring resorts of Galtr, Kappl and
Samnaun (in Switzerland).
KITZBHEL-KIRCHBERG (TYROL)

The twin ski resorts of Kitzbhel (p350) and Kirchberg are among the bestknown in Austria. Kitzbhel attracts the champagne crowd to the swanky
hotels and restaurants in its medieval heart, while Kirchberg is more relaxed.
They share 150km of prepared pistes and are linked by the 3S cable car at
Pengelstein. A fine mix of intermediate and advanced, the slopes include the
nerve-splintering Streif run. Snowboarders are well catered for at Kitzbhler
Horns fun park with a half-pipe, kickers and self-timer course. The only
downside is Kitzbhels comparatively low altitude, which means snow is

Get clicking on www

.bergfex.com for piste
maps and details of every
ski resort in Austria,
plus info on summer
activities such as hiking
and mountain biking.

76

WINTER Cross-Country Skiing

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no longer guaranteed. A weekly pass covering this and nearby ski areas
(including Wilde Kaiser-Brixental) costs 202.
ZILLERTAL-MAYRHOFEN (TYROL)

Mayrhofen (p348) in the Zillertal combines steep slopes with broad pistes
perfect for carving and cruising. Its varied terrain for skiers and boarders
includes enough black runs to keep daredevils on their toes. Austrias undisputed king of scary skiing reigns here the mogul-free and kamikaze-like
Harakiri, with a 78-degree gradient that catapults skiers into the unknown
(many take one look and judiciously turn back). Even when snow lies thin
on the ground in Mayrhofen, the resorts easy access to the Hintertux Glacier
means plenty of skiing is always available. The weekly Zillertal Super Ski Pass
(197.50) covers 157km of piste and 49 lifts in the Zillertal area.
TZTAL-SLDEN (TYROL)
Austrian Matthias Zdarsky
penned the first skiing
manual in 1897, invented
the first practical ski
binding and organised the
first slalom competition in
skiing history in 1905.

Slden (p357) in the tztal is one of the countrys highest resorts and snow
coverage is superb. Most skiers that make it this far have the Big 3 in mind: a
trio of three-thousanders that are the ultimate in high-altitude, long-distance
skiing. Experienced skiers seeking a leg-burner can attempt the Big 3 Rally,
which conquers all three peaks in a marathon 50km, four-hour race. If that
seems a little ambitious, the lively resorts 150km of slopes include many red
and blue runs. The nearby Rettenbach and Tiefenbach glaciers are great for
pre- or late-season cruising. The season here is one of the longest in Austria
running from November to May and a weekly ski pass costs 228.50.
ARLBERG (TYROL/VORARLBERG)

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SUMMER Cycling & Mountain Biking

BEST SLOPES FOR...

Families Heiligenblut (p319) for its relaxed vibe and Bobos Kids Club; Filzmoos (p286) for its
central slopes and off-slope activities such as horse-drawn sleigh rides.
Snowboarding For big air it has got to be Slden (p357), with a half-pipe, two terrain parks
and the Big 3 (three mountains above 3000m).
Cruising Kitzbhel (p350) for its perfect blend of blues, reds and blacks.
Boozing Aprs ski heavyweight? St Anton am Arlberg (p362) wins hands down. Hot contender?
Ischgl (p360), dubbed Ibiza on skis for its penchant for Europop and wild inebriation.
Snow-sure slopes Topping 3000m, the Hintertux Glacier (p349) and the Kitzsteinhorn Glacier
(p313) offer deep powder for pre- and post-season skiing.
Celebrity spotting Lech (p379) and Zrs (p379) in Vorarlberg have earned their exclusive
image with five-star pads welcoming royals, the filthy rich and supermodels on skis.
Ultimate scream Mayrhofen (p348) for the breathtakingly sheer Harakiri run. Its very steep,
pitch-black, and theres no turning baaaaaack
Postcard scenery Eschew the Jgermeister parties in favour of Montafon (p378), a pristine
valley with diverse terrain, snug chalets and awesome Piz Buin views.
Vista vultures The views of the glaciated peaks of the Hohe Tauern National Park from the
slopes above Zell am See (p312) will blow you away.
Cross-country Seefeld (p345) and Bad Gastein (p320) are perfect for living life in the slow
lane with glorious mountain scenery and mile upon mile of cross-country trails.
Night skiing Hermagor (p301) is a great base for skiing Nassfelds slopes, where one of
Europes longest floodlit runs at 2.2km lures after-dark skiers every Wednesday night.

Comprising the swish resorts of Lech (p379) and Zrs (p379) in Vorarlberg
and devilish St Anton am Arlberg (p362) in Tyrol, the Arlberg (www.skiarl
berg.at) features 276km of groomed slopes. Lech and Zrs mainly offer red
and blue runs, although there is some trickier off-piste terrain. Thrill seekers
head for St Anton to ride the brand-new Galzigbahn gondola, speed down
off-piste runs below Valluga and test out Rendls half-pipe and jumps. The
aprs-ski scene here is unrivalled in Austria. A weekly pass costs 224.
SILVRETTA NOVA-MONTAFON (VORARLBERG)
Weather and avalanche
reports in Austrias ski
regions are updated daily
on www.lawine.at.

stretch from Seefeld to Msern. Zell am See (p312) is hot on its heels
with 200km of groomed trails providing panoramic views of the Hohe
Tauern mountains. Other great resorts to test your stamina and stride
include the Bad Gastein region (p320), combed with 90km of well-marked
cross-country trails.

SNOWSHOEING

Silhouetted by Piz Buin (3312m), the Montafon ski area (p378) stretches
along a valley in the southeast corner of Vorarlberg. This peaceful region has a
clutch of small, laid-back resorts ideal for finding your ski legs on gentle pistes
or getting off the well-bashed slopes with ski touring. Serviced by 62 lifts, the
222km of pistes mostly appeal to beginners and intermediates. Alongside
downhill skiing, abundant sledding tracks and winter hiking trails make
Silvretta NovaMontafon a family favourite. A weekly pass (198.50) covers
seven resorts, including Schruns/Tschagguns, Gargellen and Gaschurn.

CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING
Locally known as Langlauf, cross-country skiing in Austria is considerably
greener and cheaper than skiing. Skis give you the traction to walk uphill
at your own pace and live the beauty of the forest and mountains in slow
motion. The two main techniques are the classic lift-and-glide method on
prepared Loipen (cross-country tracks) and the more energetic skating
technique. The basics are easy to master and tracks are graded from blue
to black according to difficulty. It costs around 15 to 20 to rent a pair of
cross-country skis for the day.
Seefeld (p345) features among Austrias top cross-country skiing destinations, with 262km of tracks crisscrossing the region and a 3km floodlit

Its immensely satisfying to make tracks through deep, virgin snow without sinking. Originally little more than strap-on tennis rackets, snowshoes
have evolved into lightweight contraptions that allow you to shuffle through
twinkling woodlands in quiet exhilaration. Many resorts in the Austrian Alps
have marked trails where big-footed snowshoers can head up to the hills. It
costs roughly 15 to 20 to hire a set of shoes and sticks for the day.
Prime spots to explore the snowy backcountry include Mayrhofen
(p348), with around 45km of prepared trails, and Kitzbhel, (p350) where
routes around the Kitzbhel Horn and Reith reveal the resorts tranquil
side. During the winter season, guided snowshoe hikes depart from the
tourist office at 9.45am from Monday to Friday (register in advance). The
treks are 5 or free to visitors with a guest card.

SUMMER
CYCLING & MOUNTAIN BIKING
For many, Austria is best explored with your bum on a seat, freewheeling through the pristine countryside. The country is blessed with miles
of well-marked cycle paths that pass through lowlands to the east and

77

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SUMMER Cycling & Mountain Biking

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mountains to the south and west. Whether you want to tear down the
Alps, pedal through river valleys or ride rings around crystalline lakes, this
two-wheel-friendly land has all the right ingredients. Warmer temperatures
from May to October beckon cyclists, while downhill mountain bikers
head to the Alps from late June to mid-September.
The local tourist offices usually stock brochures and maps on cycling
and mountain biking. Cycle clubs are another good source of information;
Argus (Map pp120-1; %01-505 09 07; www.argus.or.at, in German; Frankenberggasse 11, Vienna)
has offices throughout the country and books (also in English) on the subject. Esterbauers (www.esterbauer.com, in German) Bikeline books cover
Austrias major trails in detail; they are in German but are reasonably
easy to navigate. Freytag & Berndt and Kompass hiking maps are reliable
sources for cycling, as they invariably have cycle trails marked.
City and mountain bikes are available for hire in most Austrian towns
and resorts. Intersport has a near monopoly on rental equipment, offering
a selection of quality bikes in 140 stores throughout Austria. Day rates
range from 15 to 25 and the seventh day is often free on week rentals.
All prices include bicycle helmets and theres a 50% reduction on childrens
bikes. Those that want to plan their route ahead can search by region and
book a bike online (www.intersportrent.at).
Bikes can be taken on Austrian trains BB (see p400). Many of the
countrys leading resorts have cottoned onto the popularity of downhill
mountain biking and now allow cyclists to take their bikes on the cable
cars for free or for a nominal charge in the summer season maximising
enjoyment and avoiding the sweat and strain of the uphill slog!

Cycling
The Alps offer a bumpy ride, but Austria has numerous flat trails that are
less gruelling and sacrifice none of the splendour. Most of the routes circle
lakes or follow the course of rivers and include those outlined following.
Plan your two-wheel
adventure online at
www.radtouren.at, with
excellent info in English
on cycling routes and
bike-friendly hotels in
Austria, plus maps, tips
and brochures.

BODENSEE TRAIL

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SUMMER Cycling & Mountain Biking

castles in Kufstein and Bavaria. The final flat stretch zips through quaint
villages and rolling countryside to Schrding. The route is well marked,
but signage varies between regions.
SALZKAMMERGUT TRAIL

This 345km circular trail explores the lake-studded Salzkammergut, including Hallsttter See (p249), Attersee and Wolfgangsee. Its not exactly flat,
but the trail is well marked and only a moderate condition is required. The
scenic route contours around lakes set against an alpine backdrop theres
nothing like pausing for a refreshing dip in their waters to relieve saddle
sore! To explore the area in greater depth, pick up Esterbauers Radatlas
Salzkammergut. The trail is signposted (R2) in both directions.
TAUERN TRAIL

Taking in some of Austrias most spectacular scenery, the 325km Tauern

tour is not technically difficult, but cycling at high altitude requires stamina. It begins at the thundering Krimml Falls (p317), then snakes along the
Salzach River with vistas of glaciated Hohe Tauern peaks. Veering north,
the trail passes the hilltop fortress of Hohenwerfen and the salt mines of
Hallein. The final leg leads you through Salzburg and the Saalach Valley
onto gentle pastures around Braunau am Inn and Schrding. The trail is
marked with green-and-white signs in both directions.

Mountain Biking
The Austrian Alps are a Mecca to mountain bikers, with its hairpin bends,
backbreaking inclines and steep descents. The country offers 17,000km of
mountain bike routes, with the most challenging terrain in Vorarlberg,
Tyrol, Salzburg and Carinthia. Below is a sample of the tours that lure
the super-fit and speedy.
SALZBURGER ALMENTOUR

Touching base with Vorarlberg, the vast Lake Constance (p369) is easily explored by bike on a 270km cycleway that circumnavigates the lake
through Austria, Germany and Switzerland. The route offers wonderful
scenery from forests to apple orchards and vineyards fleeting views of
the Alps and picnic pitstops at pebbly bays. Marked with red-and-white
signs, the trail can be split into shorter chunks (see www.bodensee-radweg
.com) making it a great option for families.

On this 146km trail, bikers pedal through 30 Almen (mountain pastures)

in three days. While the name conjures up visions of gentle meadows, the
route involves some strenuous climbs up to tremendous viewpoints like
Zwlferhorn peak. Green-and-white signs indicate the trail from Annaberg
to Edtalm via Wolfgangsee (p260). Route details and highlights are given
online (www.almentour.com, in German).

DANUBE TRAIL

Hailed as one of the countrys top mountain bike routes; this three-day
tour circles the rugged limestone pinnacles of the Dachstein massif and
blazes through three provinces: Salzburger Land, Upper Austria and Styria.
Youll need a good level of fitness to tackle the 182km trail that starts
and finishes in Bad Goisern, pausing en route near Filzmoos (p286). For
details, see the website www.dachste inrunde.at.

Shadowing the Danube (p164) for 380km from Passau to Bratislava, this
routes smooth trails make it popular with easy riders. The trail cuts a path
through woodlands, deep valleys and orchards. A highlight is freewheeling
past terraced vineyards, lofty cliffs and baroque abbeys in the Wachau.
Green-and-white signs indicate the way on both sides of the river. For
more details pick up Esterbauers Danube Bike Trail (containing maps
and instructions and practical information) or a free copy of the bilingual
Donauradweg Von Passau bis Bratislava.
INN TRAIL

Starting in Innsbruck (p331) and travelling 302km to Schrding, this trail

sticks close to the turquoise Inn River. Its basically downhill all the way,
passing through Tyrol, Bavaria and Upper Austria. Youll pedal through
fertile farmland on Innsbrucks fringes, then alpine valleys dominated by

79

DACHSTEIN TOUR

SILVRETTA MOUNTAIN BIKE ARENA

Grazing the Swiss border, the Silvretta Mountain Bike Arena in the
Patznauntal is among the biggest in the Alps, with 1000km of trails;
some climbing to almost 3000m. Ischgl (p360) makes an excellent base
with a technique park and plenty of trail information at the tourist office.
The 15 freeride trails for speed freaks include the Velill Trail, involving
1300m of descent. Tour details are available at www.ischgl-bikeacademy
.at, in German.

Surf www.bike-gps.com
for downloadable GPS
tours in Austria where
you can get dirty on your
mountain bike and www
.bike-holidays.com for
the best places to clean
up afterwards.

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S U M M E R Pa r a g l i d i n g

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SUMMER Water Spor ts

81

KITZBHEL

Covering 750km of mountain bike trails, the Kitzbhel (p350) region

rates as one of Austrias top freewheeling destinations. Routes range from
700m to 2300m in elevation and encompass trial circuits, downhill runs
and bike parks. The must-experience rides include the Hahnenkamm
Bike Safari from Kitzbhel to Pass Thurn, affording far-reaching views
of Grossglockner and Wilder Kaiser, plus the Ehrenbach trail with jumps,
drops and natural obstacles.
STUBAITAL & ZILLERTAL

Find the best place to

spread your wings in
Austria at www
.flugschulen.at; it gives
a regional rundown of
flight schools offering
paragliding and
hang-gliding.

These two broad valleys (p345 and p346) running south from the Inn River
in Tyrol are flanked by high peaks crisscrossed with 800km of mountain
bike trails. The terrain is varied and the landscape splendid, with gorges,
waterfalls and glaciers constantly drifting into view. Highlights feature the
alpine route from Mayrhofen to Hintertux Glacier and the dizzying roads
that twist up from Ginzling to the Schlegeisspeicher.

PARAGLIDING
Wherever theres a high mountain accessible by cable car and a constant wind,
youll find paragliding and hang-gliding in Austria. Its particularly exhilarating on bright, sunny days in the Alps, when the sky is dotted with people
soaring above the pinnacles and floating effortlessly on thermal drafts.
Of the two, paragliding wins the popularity race, simply because the equipment is more portable. Many resorts have places where you can hire the gear,
get a lesson, or go as a passenger on a tandem flight. Tyrol is traditionally a
centre for paragliding, with narrow valleys and plenty of cable cars. A good
place to head is Fly Zillertal (p347) in Zell am Ziller.

CANYONING
If the thought of hurling yourself down crevices and abseiling down frothing
waterfalls appeals, youll love canyoning. This adrenaline-fuelled sport has
established itself as one of the most popular activities in the Austrian Alps.
Sliding through a gorge requires nerve and effort, but the ice-cold pools at
the bottom provide welcome respite. Among the hundreds of crag-riddled
destinations calling budding Indiana Joneses are Mayrhofen (p349), the
tztal (p356) and St Anton am Arlberg (p362). Inquire at local tourist offices
about canyoning specialists in the region. Canyoning is graded according to
difficulty and length, with prices fluctuating between 45 and 90.

ROCK CLIMBING

And they call it puppy

love If you thought
only Brits were soppy
about their pooches,
check out the dedicated
doggy paddle areas on the
beaches at Millsttter See,
Klagenfurt and
Neusiedler See.

Its impossible to have mountains without Klettern (rock climbing) and

Austria is covered with rock-climbing opportunities. A good introduction
for would-be Spidermen or women is the sterreichischer Alpenverein (p83),
which advises on places to go and runs rock-climbing courses. Peilstein,
in the Vienna Woods, is often used for such weekend courses. Other
rock-climbing centres include Dachstein in Salzkammergut, Hochknig
near Salzburg, the Hohe Tauern National Park and Wilde Kaiser near
Kufstein in Tyrol. Austrian mountaineer Peter Habeler (p89) runs a firstrate climbing school in Mayrhofen (p349), taking groups high up into
the Zillertal Alps.

WATER SPORTS
Austria is dotted with more than 6000 lakes and a mammoth number of
rivers coursing through its valleys that offer more than enough places to
enjoy water sports.

GOING TO EXTREMES
Go ahead, jump Austrias mountains arent the only high points. To discover Viennas
topsy-turvy side, take a deep breath and leap into oblivion from the needle-thin Donauturm
(Danube Tower), the worlds highest bungee jump from a tower. Daredevils can also plunge
192m from the Europabrcke bridge spanning the Sill River for a thrilling upside-down
bounce.
Gone with the wind Kite-surfing is all the rage on Austrias lakes and its about as much fun
as you can have wearing a wetsuit. For a taste of the extreme water action, make a beeline
for Neusiedler See in Burgenland, one of the few steppe lakes in Central Europe. Podersdorf
am See is a great base to grab a board and catch the waves.
An ice climb If you thought regular climbing was slippery, try getting a grip on ice climbing!
Scaling frozen walls and waterfalls is pure adventure, but youll need a decent pair of
crampons and a good instructor. Slide over to the Stubai Glacier (p345) in Tyrol to give it a go.
Mind the gap This is a tube with a difference one that glides over hard-packed snow at
jaw-dropping speeds. For a change, abandon your skis or sledge for the day and get your
hands on one of these robust rings for heaps of fun spinning down the slopes in ski resorts
like Slden (p357) and Mayrhofen (p348).
Going down If you think paragliding is for wimps, skydiving may be just the ticket. Rolling
out of a plane at 4000m and freefalling for 60 seconds before your parachute opens is the
ultimate adrenaline rush. Tandem jumps are available all over Austria from Vienna to Graz
and Salzburg (see www.skydive.at for details).
Got some fantastic tips about Austria that youd love to share with Lonely Planet readers? Create
your own Bluelist and upload it onto our website www.lonelyplanet.com.

Zipping across lakes by wind power is the most popular water sport in
the country, and the locals arent bad at, if Olympic medals are anything
to go by. Sailing, windsurfing and kite-surfing are all here to be had; the
sterreichischer Segel-Verband (Austrian Sailing Federation; %02167-40 243-0; www.segel
verband.at, in German; Seestrasse 17b, A-7100 Neusiedl am See) can provide a list of clubs
and locations in the country. The Neusiedler See (p193) is the number-one
lake for such activities (probably because Vienna is so close), followed by
the lakes of Carinthia and Salzkammergut. Tyrol has the Achensee (p350)
and Vorarlberg the Bodensee (p369).
Rafting, canoeing or kayaking the white waters of Austrias alpine rivers
are other favourite pastimes. Big rivers which support such adrenaline
sports include the Enns and Salza in Styria, the Inns, Sanna and tztaler
Ache in Tyrol and the Isel in East Tyrol. Imst (p358) is a well-known
centre for rafting. Absolute Outdoors (%03612-253 43; www.rafting.at; Ausseerstrasse
2-4, Liezen) is a reputable company offering trips on all the above rivers.
When the suns out, theres little thats more invigorating than a dip in
one of Austrias lakes. Carinthia is famed for its pure waters, which can
heat up to a deliciously warm 26C in summer; Milsttter See (p307) and
Wrthersee (p295) offer open-water swimming and scuba diving with great
visibility. Salzkammergut is another prime spot for a summertime splash,
in lakes such as Hallsttter See (p249) and Attersee (p259).

Austrians prudish?
Nah. Ubiquitous nudist
beaches reveal theres
nothing they love
better than stripping off.
Hallstttersee, Millsttter
See and even the Danube
Island in Vienna are set
up for skinny-dippers.

The closest thing to

bathing in mineral water
is taking a dip in one of
Austrias pure lakes; these
include Thiersee, Urisee
and Plansee in Tyrol.

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GETTING STARTED

Walking in Austria
With its rugged peaks, crinkly valleys and sparkling rivers, Austria serves up some of Europes
finest landscapes and the only way to truly discover them is by schlepping a backpack and
hitting the trail. To the west the Alps flick out like a dragons tail, luring hikers to its pointy
pinnacles, while to the east the soft tapestry of vineyards and hillocks are tailor-made for
lazy ambles. Seeing the morning clouds blanket the mountains, curling up by an open fire
after an uphill trudge and witnessing the springtime eruption of violet and pink on alpine
pastures are experiences that put hikers senses on high alert.
Giving a walker the pick of the Alps is like giving a child the run of a sweet shop. Despite
its accessibility, this countrys high-altitude terrain is still laced with adventure: from flirting
with mountaineering on fixed-rope routes in the Tennengebirge to scaling the limestone
crags of the Dachstein massif to gazing up at the Hohe Tauern National Parks mantle of
glaciers. For families and ramblers seeking something gentler, there are deep gullies, thundering waterfalls and meadows riddled with marmot holes to explore.
But its the locals that give trekking in Austria its unique flavour. Lithe 70-year-olds nordic
walking (walking with ski poles) in the hills and rock climbers limbering up on the north
face before breakfast are proof that this land embraces all forms of walking with a passion. Further evidence is the mountain huts perched on every hillside, welcoming walkers
with farm-fresh cheese, cool beer and cushy beds. Spending a night in one of these snug
refuges is a highlight on any trek a chance to natter with the locals, savour simple home
cooking and delight in tumbling out of your bunk at 6am, just in time to see dawn tint
the peaks gold.

Spitz-Schwallenbach
Circuit

UPPER AUSTRIA

LOWER AUSTRIA

THE
SALZKAMMERGUT

Gosaukamm
Circuit
Obertrauen to
Tennegebirge
Hallstatt
Rosengartenschlucht
Circuit
Pinzgauer
Circuit
VORARLBERG
TYROL
Spaziergang
SALZBURG &
Krimml Falls Loop
SALZBURGER LAND

BURGENLAND

Puchberg to
Schneeberg

Kaisergebirge
Circuit

HOHE TAUERN

Radsattel
Circuit

Zillertal NATIONAL PARK

Circuit
CARINTHIA

Garnitzenklamm
Circuit

VIENNA

STYRIA

W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A G e t t i n g S t a r t e d

Two other clubs worth contacting for

information are the Naturfreunde sterreich

Because Austrians are such a well-organised

bunch, and many spend their weekends
walking in the mountains, an ever increasing number of walking paths are indicated by
red-white-red stripes on a handy tree trunk
or rock, and regular signs point out the way
ahead. The practice of marking mountain
trails according to their difficulty started in
Tyrol and is becoming more widespread.
Paths are coded with the same colours that
are used for ski runs: blue for easy, red for
moderate (trails are fairly narrow and steep),
and black for difficult (these trails are only
for the physically fit; some climbing may be
required).
Alpine huts make it easy to tackle many
long-distance trails with little more than a
day pack, but if youre keen to get out and
stride during the summer rush hour (July
and August) its advisable to book ahead as
the popular places fill up in a flash.

INFORMATION

Information Sources
The sterreich Werbung (Austria National Tourist Office,
ANTO; %0810-10 18 18; www.austria.info) has offices
throughout the world and should be your
first port of call. A full list of contact details
can be found on its website, along with walking information on everything from themed
family jaunts to multi-day treks for serious
hikers. It produces the free and up-to-date
Walk Austria Guide, which you can order
online and use to plan your route before setting off. Check out the regional tourist offices
for details on province-specific hikes and free
walking brochures.
sterreichischer Alpenverein (AV, Austrian Alpine
Club; %0512-595 47; www.alpenverein.at, in German;
Wilhelm-Greil-Strasse 15, Innsbruck) is an excellent

source for more specific and detailed information. Adult membership costs 48.50 per year,
with substantial discounts for students and
people aged under 25 or over 60; members
pay half-price at alpine huts and receive other
benefits including insurance. The club also
organises walks but you have to either join
the club or be a member of an alpine club in
your home country; there is an arm of the club
in England, the Austrian Alpine Club (%01929-556
870; www.aacuk.org.uk; 12A North St, Wareham BH20 4AG).
Of the 1000-odd huts in the Austrian Alps,
241 are maintained by the AV; see p380 for
further details.

83

(NF, Friends of Nature Austria; %01-892 35 34-0; www

.naturfreunde.at, in German; Viktoriagasse 6, Vienna) and
the sterreichischer Touristenklub (TK, Austrian
Tourist Club; % 01-512 38 44; www.touristenklub.at,
in German; Bckerstrasse 16, Vienna). The first con-

centrates on Austrias lowlands, while the

second has an excellent library (h4-7pm Thu).
The majority of books on the Alps are in
German, but there is an extensive collection
of maps, which can be photocopied, and staff
are supremely knowledgeable.

Maps
A great overview map of Austria is Michelins
1:400,000 national map No 730 Austria.
Alternatively, the sterreich Werbung (Austria
National Tourist Office, ANTO; %0810-10 18 18; www.austria
.info) can send you a free copy of its 1:800,000

country map.
There are plenty of high-quality walking
maps to choose from, and paths are clearly
indicated on all of them. The standard references at a 1:50,000 scale are produced by
Freytag & Berndt (F&B) and Kompass. Both
include small booklets, that list contact details for mountains huts and offering background information on trails. If you prefer
larger-scale maps for walking, use the clear
yet detailed Alpenvereinskarte 1:25,000 series. Many local tourist offices hand out basic
maps that may be sufficient for short, easy
walks. See the individual walks for specific
map requirements.
The best place to stock up on maps in
Austria is at a Tabak (tobacconist), newsagent or bookshop. Usually only local maps
are available in these outlets, although bookshops in the major cities offer a wider selection. Outdoor-activities shops usually sell a
limited variety of walking maps.

Books
The standard English-language walking guidebook to Austria has long been Cecil Davies
Mountain Walking in Austria. The book concentrates on the alpine areas of the country,
but some route descriptions can be up to 20
years old. For a more contemporary treatment
of multi-day routes, try Walking Austrias Alps
Hut to Hut by Johnathan Hurdle. If youre
keen to identify the local flora, Kompass
publish Alpine Flowers, a pocket-sized guide
complete with colour illustrations.

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W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A W h e n t o W a l k

WHEN TO WALK
While the wildflowers and tinkling cowbells
make summer (June to September) a top
choice for wandern (walking), the sprightly
Austrians dont let the dust gather under
their boots the rest of the year they accessorise. Deep powder? Snowshoes. Ice?
Crampons. Slippery autumn leaves? A
snazzy pair of walking sticks. Of course,
if youre planning multi-day hikes in the
Alps, summer is probably your only option,
as Alpine huts only open from mid-June to
late September.
The busiest months are July and August,
when snowfields above 2000m melt and the
weather is mostly fine. Spring offers fewer
crowds and everything begins to bloom at
lower altitudes. Autumn, too, is quieter and
is a fantastic season to glimpse the mountains
wrapped in a cloak of gold and crimson.
Even winter walking isnt out of the question in the Alps; many resorts now cater to
nonskiers with prepared Winterwanderwege
(winter trails), and making tracks through

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squeaky snow with a crisp blue sky overhead

is quite something.
If theres one rule of thumb in the Alps,
its to never take the weather for granted. It
may look sunny but conditions can change at
the drop of a hat hail, lightning, fog, torrential rain, you name it so the trick is to
pack layers and check the forecast before embarking on long hikes at high altitudes. Taped
regional Alpine weather reports can be heard
on %0990-911566 81. Tourist offices also
display and/or provide mountain-weather
forecasts, while web forecasts also available on
website of the AV (www.alpenverein.at, in German).

Take lightweight layers that you can put

on or take off to warm up or cool down. The
basics include a breathable T-shirt, fleece,
loose-fitting trousers, sturdy walking boots
and waterproofs. For high-altitude hikes, it
may also be worth packing a hat, gaiters, thermals, gloves and walking sticks. The sun can
be extraordinarily deceptive in the mountains;
while the air temperature may be subzero,
the rays are still powerful and sunscreen is
essential to avoid the lobster-skin and pandaeye look. Also consider taking a torch, firstaid kit, compass, mobile phone and a whistle
for emergencies.

WHAT TO TAKE

WALK DESCRIPTIONS

A light pack full of little necessities is the secret to happy hiking. Its tough walking on
an empty stomach, so make sure you have
enough carbohydrate-rich food for the day
(including emergency rations) and at least
1L of water per person to avoid dehydration.
High-energy foods such as nuts, dried fruits,
bread, cheese and cured meats are ideal.

HUT-TO-HUT HIKING
One of the joys of hiking in Austria is spending the night in a mountain hut. These trailside
refuges make great bases for exploring the wilderness without sacrificing creature comforts. The
highly evolved system means youre hardly ever further than a five- to six-hour walk from the
next hut, which removes the need to lug a tent, camping stove and other gear that weighs hikers down. Most huts have a Gaststube (living room), a convivial spot that hums with the chatter
of ruddy-cheeked walkers, comparing notes and clinking glasses. With a belly full of dumplings
and schnapps, you retreat to your comfy bunk and hope you havent picked the one next to a
champion snorer!
Austria has more than 1000 huts, over 500 of which belong to the sterreichischer Alpenverein
(AV, Austrian Alpine Club; %0512-595 47; www.alpenverein.at, in German; Wilhelm-Greil-Strasse 15) or Deutscher
Alpenverein (DAV, German Alpine Club; www.apenverein.de, in German). Huts in popular areas are more
like mountain inns, with restaurant facilities, drying rooms and even hot showers (normally at
an extra charge). Accommodation is in communal dorms called Matrazenlager, two- or four-bed
rooms, or in the Notlager (emergency shelter wherever theres space) if all beds have been taken.
Blankets and pillows are provided but you might need to bring your own sleeping sheet. The
lunchtime and evening menu is usually hearty and good value. Members of the AV can order
the Bergsteigeressen literally mountaineers meal which is low in price but high in calories,
though not necessarily a gastronomic treat! On average, hikers should budget 8 to 10 for a
basic meal with a drink. Its also sensible to carry tea or coffee, as Teewasser (boiled water) can
be purchased from the hut warden.
Most huts open from mid-June to mid-September when the trails are free of snow; the busiest
months are July and August, when advance bookings are recommended. Members of the AV
are entitled to a discount of up to 50% on the cost of overnight accommodation at AV and DAV
huts, so if you plan to undertake a hut-to-hut tour in Austria its worth joining the UK section
(p83); however, allow two months for your application to be processed. The AV publishes the
AV Hut Book for Austria (in German, with key words in English), a comprehensive book on huts,
with contact details and opening times. Consult p380 for further accommodation information.

The times and distances in this chapter are

provided only as a guide. Times are based on
the actual walking time and do not include
stops for snacks, taking photos, rests or side
trips. Be sure to factor these in when planning
your walk. Distances should be read in conjunction with altitudes significant elevation
can make a greater difference to your walking
time than lateral distance. Grading systems are
always arbitrary; however, having an indication may help you choose between walks. Easy
refers to a short walk on gentle terrain, medium denotes challenging terrain and longer
distances, while difficult indicates walks with
long distances, significant elevation change
and high-altitude or glacier travel.

RESPONSIBLE WALKING
The popularity of walking puts great pressure
on Austrias natural environment, particularly
the fragile ecosystem of the Alps. To minimise
impact and help preserve Austrias ecology,
consider the following tips when walking.

Trail Etiquette
Greeting your fellow walkers with a cheery
Servus (Hello) and observing a few etiquette
basics will stand you in good stead.
On narrow paths, ascending walkers have
right of way over those descending.
Always leave farm gates as you find them.
In summer low-voltage electric fences are
set up to control livestock on the open
alpine pastures; where an electric fence
crosses a path, it usually has a hook that
can be easily unfastened to allow walkers
to pass through without getting zapped.
The days of plucking edelweiss to woo
your sweetheart are long gone. Alpine

W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A W a l k D e s c r i p t i o n s

85

wildflowers look lovelier on the mountainsides and many of them are protected
species.
Moving too close will unnerve wild animals, distracting them from their vital
summer activity of fattening up for the
long winter.

Rubbish
The idea is to carry out what you have
carried in, including easily forgotten
items such as tinfoil, orange peel, cigarette butts and plastic wrappers. Empty
packaging weighs very little.
Burying rubbish is not recommended as
digging disturbs soil and ground cover,
and encourages erosion. Buried rubbish
will more than likely be dug up by animals, who may be injured or poisoned
by it. It also takes years to decompose,
especially at high altitudes.
Minimise the waste you carry out by
taking minimal packaging or unpacking
small-portion packages and combining
their contents in one container before
your trip. Take reusable containers or
stuff sacks.
Condoms, tampons and sanitary pads
should also be carried out, despite the
inconvenience, as they burn and decompose poorly.

Human Waste Disposal

Make an effort to use toilets in huts and
refuges where provided.
Where there is no toilet, bury your waste.
Dig a small, 15cm-deep hole at least
100m from any watercourse; consider
carrying a lightweight trowel for this
purpose. Cover the waste with soil and a
rock. Use toilet paper sparingly and bury
that too. In snow, dig down beneath the
soil; otherwise your waste will be exposed
when the snow melts.
Contamination of the local water sources
by human faeces can lead to the transmission of giardiasis, a human bacterial
parasite. It can cause severe health risks
to other walkers, local residents and
wildlife.

Erosion
Mountain slopes and hillsides, especially at high altitudes, are prone to erosion. Its important to stick to existing

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LONG-DISTANCE TRAILS
Austrias extensive hut network is ideal for those keen to do some serious trekking in the Alps.
The website of the sterreichischer Alpenverein (AV, Austrian Alpine Club; %0512-595 47; www.alpen
verein.at, in German; Wilhelm-Greil-Strasse 15) has a dedicated section on the countrys 10 Weitwanderwege
(long-distance trails), which stretch from 160km to 1200km and showcase different areas of
Austrias stunning landscape. Accessible from mid-June to late September, the following trails
are a taste of whats on offer.
Adlerweg Exploring Tyrols finest scenery, the 280km Adlerweg (Eagle Trail) starts in St
Johann near Kitzbhel (p350) and scales the Karwendel massif, before traversing the limestone
crags of Wilder Kaiser and eventually landing in St Anton am Arlberg (p362). Youll need to
be in good condition to attempt this challenging three- to four-week hike, with highlights
including rugged peaks, waterfalls, ice caves and hilltop castles. See www.adlerweg.tirol.at for
trail information and maps.
Berliner Hhenweg This 42km trail begins in Ginzling (p350) and quickly gains altitude
(the highest point is 3133m). There are bewitching views of the Zillertal Alps towering over
the trail and the turquoise Schlegeisspeicher below. Some mountaineering experience is
required as snow patches are not uncommon and there are several passes to tackle. The hike
takes three to four days to complete. Use Kompass 1:25,000 map No 37 Mayrhofen Tuxer Tal
Zillergrund.
Arnoweg The 1200km Arnoweg rates among Austrias best long-distance walks, making a
circuit around Salzburger Land that takes roughly two months to complete. The official start
and finish point is Salzburg (p266), but many walkers follow only the southerly stretch of the
walk, which leads through the glacial landscape of the Hohe Tauern National Park (p310). The
route ascends to 3106m, so a decent level of fitness is required. Rother Wanderfhrer map
Arnoweg Der Salzburger Rundwanderweg covers the trail. See www.arnoweg.com for more
details.
Stubai Hhenweg Austrias showpiece hut-to-hut route, the Stubaier Hhenweg starts at
Neustift in Stubaital. Youll need a good level of fitness to tread the well-marked 120km
circuit, which affords tremendous vistas of hanging glaciers, rocky ridges and wild alpine
lakes. Every section of the seven- to nine-day route involves battling at least one pass, and
many sections have fixed wire ropes to assist with difficult steps. Buses run from Innsbruck to
the Stubaital (p345). Pick up Kompass 1:50,000 map No 83 Stubaier Alpen Serleskamm.

tracks and avoid short cuts that bypass

a switchback. If you blaze a new trail
straight down a slope, it will turn into a
watercourse with the next heavy rainfall
and eventually cause soil loss and deep
scarring.
If a well-used track passes through a
mud patch, walk through the mud;
walking around the edge will increase
the size of the patch.
Avoid removing the plant life that keeps
topsoils in place.

SAFETY & EMERGENCIES

Most walker deaths are directly attributable
to fatigue, heat exhaustion, and inadequate
clothing or footwear. A fall resulting from
sliding on grass, scree or iced-over paths is
a common hazard; watch out for black ice.

In high-Alpine routes, avalanches and rock

falls can be a problem.
As long as you stick to the marked route, its
hard to get lost in Austria, where most trails
are signposted and well mapped. Study the
weather forecast before you go and remember
that weather patterns change dramatically in
the mountains. Increase the length and altitude of your walks gradually, until you are
acclimatised to the vast Alpine scale.
That said, where possible dont walk in
the mountains alone. Two is considered the
minimum number for safe walking, and
having at least one additional person in the
party will mean someone can stay with an
injured walker while the other seeks help.
Inform a responsible person, such as a family member, hut warden or hotel receptionist, of your plans, and let them know when

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W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A Z i l l e r t a l C i r c u i t ( T y r o l )

you return. Under no circumstances should

you leave marked trails in foggy conditions. With some care, most walking routes
can be followed in fog, but otherwise wait
by the path until visibility is clear enough
to proceed.
The standard Alpine distress signal is six
whistles, six calls, six smoke puffs that is,
six of whatever sign you can make followed
by a pause equalling the length of time taken
by the calls before repeating the signal again.
If you have a mobile phone, take it with you.
Mountain rescue (%140) in the Alps is very efficient but extremely expensive, so make sure
you have insurance.

TYROL & VORARLBERG

ZILLERTAL CIRCUIT (TYROL)

Duration Five to six hours

Distance 11km
Difficulty Medium
Nearest Town Mayrhofen (p348)
Summary A high-level circuit that leaves a big impression,
with relatively easy hiking providing tremendous views
over the azure Schlegeisspeicher (Schlegeis Reservoir) to
the Zillertal Alps.

The Zillertal Alps reward walkers with

mesmerising views of flower-strewn meadows, gin-clear streams and frosted peaks.
This scenic loop begins by climbing above
the turquoise Schlegeisspeicher to join the
high-altitude Berliner Hhenweg trail (opposite) at its westernmost point. Its a great
mix of everything this mountainscape has
to offer: babbling brooks, 3000m pinnacles,
high meadows and pine woodlands. The
highlight is the precipitous balcony trail that
links two alpine huts. Although the route
involves 850m of ascent and descent, the
path is well graded and mostly gentle; however, you should use care and judgement in
bad weather. Kompass 1:25,000 map No 37
Zillertaler Alpen Tuxer Alpen covers the
walk in detail.

Getting to/from the Walk

The Schlegeisspeicher is 25km southwest of
Mayrhofen and is accessed by the twisting
Schlegeis Alpenstrasse toll road, which is
open from May to the end of October and
costs 10 for a car. Alternatively, buses run
between Mayrhofen and the reservoir (one

87

way 5.20, one hour, seven daily). The walk

starts and finishes at the car park beside the
reservoir. For details on transport to/from
Mayrhofen, see p350.

The Walk
The circuit starts at the Schlegeisspeicher,
which impresses with its sheer scale and
colour it seems like a glittering turquoise
gemstone dropped into a sea of ice white
pinnacles. From the northeast end of the car
park, take the well-worn trail signed to the
Dominikus Htte (% 05286-52 16; mattresses/beds
19/25; hmid-Maylate Oct). The turn-off for this
hut comes just 100m along the path, but you
should stick to the right and head towards the
Friesenberghaus. The trail is shown by redand-white markings on the rocks, and it soon
begins its gradual ascent through shady mixed
forest. If you peer back, there are views of the
mountains, which rise like the bows of a ship
above the glacially cold reservoir.
Weaving through pine trees, the trail
soon reaches two streams that flow swiftly
over water-worn rocks; both are crossed via
wooden footbridges. Pause to dangle your
toes in the tingling water before continuing
through the forest and past slopes that are
speckled with wildflowers such as delicate
alpine roses and purple gentian in summer.
As the rocky trail snakes upwards, the scenery
shifts to fields of dwarf pines, moss-clad slabs,
and waterfalls that streak the rugged mountain faces silver. The clang of cowbells and the
high-pitched whistle of marmots interrupt
quiet contemplation on these upper reaches.
After roughly 45 minutes, you approach
the tree line near the wooden cabin at
Friesenbergalm (2036m). The trail flattens out
here to traverse high meadows punctuated
by tarns, which are rimmed by tufts of silky
cottongrass and reflect the towering pinnacles
above. Continue around a shoulder and enter
a broad valley overshadowed by the immense
bulk of the Hoher Riffler (3231m). Affording
superlative views of the peaks crowning the
horizon, the snaking path is well graded and
largely constructed from rock slabs.
It is a further one- to 1-hour ascent from
the Friesenbergalm to Friesenberghaus, passing through boulder-strewn meadows that
give way to patches of scree and the gurgling
Lapenkarbach (Lapenkar Stream), which meanders through the valley. If youre lucky,
you might spot chamois here, though youre

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ZILLERTAL CIRCUIT
0
0

1 km
0.5 miles

Federbettkees

Schwarzbrunnerkees

Hoher Riffler
(3231m)

Friesenbergscharte
(2910m)

Friesenberghaus
(2498m)

Tuxer Ferner

Friesenberg Friesenberg
Kees
See

pe

nk

Friesenbergalm
(2036m)

ba

ch

Falsch
seite
n

ar

2819m

To
Mayrhofen
(21km)

La

Grosses
Riepenkees

Berliner H
he
nw
eg

(3233m)

Peterskpfl
(2679m)

Gefrorene-WandSpitzen
(3288m)
(3270m)
Kleines
Riepenkees

ch

ba

bac
h

er

Olperer Htte
(2388m)

Schramer Kopf
(2764m)

Za

START
END
Dominikus
Htte
Ri (1805m)

epe
n ba
ch

Bergrestaurant
Schlegeis

Schlegeisspeicher
Zamser Egg
(2467m)

Zam

ser

bac

Un
ter
sch
ram
ma
chb
ach

more likely to bump into sheep and cows

grazing on the pastures. The trail continues
to wind uphill in a series of long bends until
the Friesenberghaus slides into view. A series
of tight switchbacks completes the climb to
the hut, which is scenically perched above
the valley.
Situated under the glowering face of Hohe
Riffler and above a lake that remains ice-bound
well into the summer months, the stone-built
Deutscher Alpenverein (DAV; German Alpine
Club) Friesenberghaus (%0676-749 7550; mattresses/
beds 16/22; hmid-Junlate Sep) is a popular base
for long-distance hikers. Its a fine spot for a
cool beer or a bowl of goulash before tackling
the rest of the walk. After a little refreshment,
take time out to appreciate the views across

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the valley to magnificent peaks including the

Grosser Grainer (3201m) Zillertal locals
nickname it the Grauer (Grey) because of its
steely colour and its smaller sidekick, the
Kleiner Grainer (2952m).
Retrace your steps for 50m and turn right
along the path signposted to the Olperer Htte
and the Berliner Hhenweg. This begins by
descending slightly to cross the outlet stream
of the lake, then makes a steep but mercifully
short ascent up the rocky slope on the other
side. You may need to cross a few patches of
snow near the start, which are generally easy
to negotiate. Use your hands here for a short
section of very easy scrambling. The ascent
ends at a path junction; turn left and begin to
contour across the mountainside ahead.
The next 1 hours are spent following a
wonderful balcony trail that leads under the
3000m-high glaciers of the Gefrorene-WandSpitzen. Youll definitely want to have your
camera handy here, as there are fantastic vistas
of the azure Schlegeisspeicher and the spiky
peaks of the Zillertal Alps. The high-Alpine
trail is part of the three- to four-day Berliner
Hhenweg route, which starts in Ginzling and
makes a circuit around the head of the valley. This section makes for interesting and
easy-going walking, descending gently as it
traverses rock-studded slopes and providing
uninterrupted views of the reservoir.
Around two hours from the Friesenberghaus, the 2388m Olperer Htte (%05285626 71; mattresses/beds 18/24; hearly Jun-early Sep) is
suddenly revealed, though another stream
crossing on wooden planks is necessary before
you reach it. The hut is currently being rebuilt
from scratch and is scheduled to reopen to
walkers in 2008. From here, there are sterling views of the glacier-capped peaks of the
Olperer and Zillertal Alps. As well as resident
chickens, the hut is home to several Haflinger
horses a beautiful breed of mountain horse
unique to this region.
After reaching this point, its downhill all
the way pass in front of the hut and continue your steady descent to the reservoir.
The path begins with more lovely scenery as
it winds gently over grassy hummocks and
crosses several ice-cold streams. The trail
then steepens slightly and zigzags down beside a stream to the road (1 hours from the
Olperer Htte). Turn left and follow the road
for 1km to return to the damside parking area
where you started.

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W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A K a i s e r g e b i r g e C i r c u i t ( T y r o l )

89

ROCKET MAN: PETER HABELER

Celebrated Austrian mountaineer and ski instructor Peter Habeler was born in Mayrhofen in 1942
and has been scrambling up the glaciated peaks of the Zillertal Alps since the tender age of six.
His one-time climbing partner Reinhold Messner said famously of Habeler: Hes like a sky rocket
really impressive once the fuse is lit.
By the age of 21, Habeler was a qualified mountain guide and rapidly gaining a reputation
as a bold and talented climber. He began a partnership with Messner in the 1960s and together
they pushed the boundaries of mountaineering. They soon applied their remarkable Alpine skills
to race up the eight-thousanders of the Himalaya and pioneer the first ascent of Everest without
supplementary oxygen in 1978. We climbed quickly and travelled light, taking only the bare
essentials, Habeler enthuses. Other climbers said it was suicide, but we knew that if Sherpas
could reach 8500m, Everest was only a couple of hundred metres higher.
Extreme Alpinism has always been my goal and I was lucky enough to have fantastic teachers
the best there is, he says emphatically. He believes, though, that respect for the mountains is
declining. Alpinism is not about having the latest equipment or proving a point; its about technique, condition and the ability to predict. There is freedom in the mountains but also restriction.
His secret? Taking the time to acclimatise is vital. We spent a couple of months at Everest base
camp before making the ascent. Climbers should adapt to the mountains, befriend them. They
are not enemies that need to be conquered. Its all about understanding your boundaries and
those of the environment. Knowing when to call it a day.
Today Habeler still stands out as a mountaineer: lean, chiselled and incredibly fit for his age. His
passion for climbing is deeply rooted in what he affectionately calls his playground, the Austrian
Alps, where he grew up and now runs a guiding company, Ski School Mount Everest (p349). He
spends a lot of his time leading tours of the Zillertal Alps and speaks of his love for the Olperer
(3476m) and his little Everest, the Ahornspitze (2976m). When hes not at home in Mayrhofen,
Habeler occasionally pops over to Nepal to guide an expedition or dashes across to Hohe Tauern
to climb Grossglockner. It seems there is no keeping this man of the mountains still.

KAISERGEBIRGE CIRCUIT (TYROL)

Duration Six to seven hours

Distance 18km
Difficulty Medium
Nearest Town Kufstein (p354)
Summary Deep ravines, meadows full of wildflowers
and the perpendicular turrets of the Kaisergebirge leave
walkers awestruck on this high-altitude hike.

The soaring limestone spires of the Kaisergebirge may not count among Austrias
highest peaks, but they are undoubtedly some
of its most spectacular. Rising abruptly from
the valley floor, these distinctive peaks make
perfect walking territory. This six- to sevenhour hike passes through beautiful deciduous forest and flower-dotted Alpine pastures
before traversing the dizzying Bettlersteig,
and affords vistas of both the Wilder Kaiser
(Wild Emperor) and the gentler Zahmer
Kaiser (Tame Emperor), divided by the fertile
Kaisertal (Kaiser Valley). Sturdy footwear and
waterproofs are recommended. You can pick
up a basic map at the Kufstein tourist office
or invest in the more detailed Kompass 1:

25,000 map No 9 Kufstein-Walchsee-St Johann

in Tirol.

Getting to/from the Walk

The trailhead is Brentenjoch, at the top
station of the Sesselbahn Wilder Kaiser in
Kufstein (p355). There is a car park at the
bottom of the lift (per day 2), or buses 1
and 2 run every 20 minutes from Kufstein
to Kaisertal (one way 0.80), five minutes
walk from the bottom station of the chairlift.
For full details on getting to/from Kufstein,
see p355.

The Walk
The route begins on a high with a giddy ride
on a creaking 1970s chairlift, which saves
walkers plenty of legwork and certainly gets
the adrenaline flowing. The lift glides over
slopes wooded with beech and larch trees
that are particularly spectacular in autumn
when they turn shades of gold, amber and
russet. As you approach the top station, the
limestone pinnacles of the frost-polished
Wilder Kaiser massif come into view.

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W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A K a i s e r g e b i r g e C i r c u i t ( T y r o l )

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0
0

KAISERGEBIRGE CIRCUIT
Thierseer Ache
Kiefersfelden
(Germany)

1 km
0.5 miles

Naunspitze
(1633m)
Kiefersfelden

Zahmer Kaiser

Antoniuskapelle

175
Tischofer
Hhle

END

lba

hn

Kaisertal
Wi
ld

er

Ka

Gamskogel
(1449m)

ise

START

Brentenjoch

fen

sse

Brandkogel
(1411m)

teig

Kufstein

Se

Talo

Kufstein
(Austria)

bach

Kaiser

Bet
tler
s

A12

Anton-Karg-Haus
(829m)

Strasswalch-JH
(1117m)

Kaindl-Htte
(1293m)

Scheffauer
(2111m)

From the top of the chairlift at Brentenjoch,

take the narrow trail that veers left and leads
downhill through Alpine meadows that are
filled with purple thistles and gentian in
summer. The zigzagging descent is easy and
there are fine views of limestone columns
dusted with snow ahead. Bear left onto
the well-made path signed for Gamskogel,
which initially winds through cool pine
and beech forest. A glance left reveals the
Kaisertal and pointy Naunspitze (1633m).
After roughly 25 minutes, you reach a glade
where you can spy Scheffauer (2111m) and
Hackenkpfe (2125m).
Continue your gradual ascent on a rocky
path, clambering over knobbly roots that
form a natural staircase through the forest.
The trail steepens on the final climb up to
Gamskogel (1449m), approximately 50 minutes
from the start of the trek. This is chamois
territory and close encounters are quite common. At the summit, you are rewarded with
stupendous 360-degree views of the rolling
Zahmer Kaiser to the north and jagged Wilder
Kaiser to the south. Take time out from your
hike to relax and enjoy the wonderful pano-

Hackenkpfe
(2125m)

Sonneck
(2260m)

Wilder Kaiser

rama of the Nrdliche Kalkalpen (Northern

Limestone Alps).
The woodland trail begins its descent to the
Bettlersteig via a path bordered by dwarf pines
and blueberry bushes that cling to crags. To
the left is a sheer cliff that drops abruptly to
the valley floor; to the right the Kaindl-Htte
drifts into view. The track now runs like a
vein through the undulating Alm (Alpine
meadow) studded with heather and bracken.
A slight incline gives way to shady beech and
maple forest, and brings the Wilder Kaiser
ever nearer; its chiselled north face and rock
formations now appear incredibly close.
Around 1 hours from Brentenjoch is the
infamous Bettlersteig, the routes toughest and
most exhilarating stretch, which traverses a
narrow wind-buffeted ridge. While surefootedness and a head for heights are the only
real prerequisites for attempting this stretch,
caution should be exercised in bad weather,
when the rock becomes slippery and dangerous. Otherwise, its easily negotiated via the
cables and metal rungs hammered into the
rock face that create a real-life high-altitude
game of snakes and ladders. The scenery to

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W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A R o s e n g a r t e n s c h l u c h t C i r c u i t ( T y r o l )

the north is awesome: a ravine carpeted in

luxurious shades of green and the imposing
rocky summits of Zahmer Kaiser.
With the arduous bit behind you, the
Bettlersteig heads on through beech and fir
forest, and crosses the clear Talofen stream.
This is about the closest youll get to the north
face of Wilder Kaiser, with its solid wall of
limestone thrusting skywards and turrets
crowding the horizon. Keep an eye out for
chamois and deer in the forest on your way
down to Strasswalch youth hostel, where an
enormous fir tree provides respite from the
midday heat. Further along the Bettlersteig,
a trail heads right to Sonneck (2260m), a challenging and rewarding ascent for those with
suitable experience and climbing equipment.
After another hour of traversing streams
and negotiating switchbacks, walkers are generally glad to reach Anton-Karg-Haus (%05372625 78; mattresses/beds 17/22; hMaymid-Oct) for a
well-earned rest. The terrace is a pleasant spot
for lunch when the suns out, while a mug of
Milchkaffee (milky coffee) with homemade
shortbread is bound to boost hikers spirits
when the weather is drab.
Its a gentle and scenic 2 hour descent
to Kufstein from here. Tracing the meandering Kaiserbach (Kaiser River), the track leads
steadily through the narrow Kaisertal and
provides new perspectives of Gamskogel and
the surrounding precipices from this side
you can appreciate how steep they really are!
There is little change in elevation on the trail,
which passes through beech forest and a tunnel hewn out of the rock face. Around an hour
from Anton-Karg-Haus, look out for a path
on the right that detours to Antoniuskapelle, a
photogenic 16th-century chapel that is prized
for its baroque sculptures.
An hour further on, an easily missed sign
points the way to the Tischofer Hhle. This 40mdeep karst cave has a long and fascinating
history; bones and fossils of Ursus spelaeus
(cave bear) have been unearthed here, which
are believed to date back around 26,000 years
to the Pleistocene epoch. When Tyrol went to
war in 1809, the cave was also used as a secret
hideaway for the freedom fighters.
From the cave, the route continues downhill past overhanging crags and trees forming
arches. As you descend, there are great views
over Kufstein, and the clang of cowbells in the
dairy farms below brings you gently back to
civilisation. Finally, the path veers left along

91

a road and crosses a field to the car park at

the chairlift.

ROSENGARTENSCHLUCHT CIRCUIT
(TYROL)

Duration Three hours

Distance 5km
Difficulty Easy
Nearest Town Imst (p358)
Summary This family-oriented walk has plenty of highs:
from climbing a dramatic gorge to racing in a roller coaster
to plunging into an Alpine lake.

This three-hour walk is one of Imsts hidden

gems and is ideal for families seeking to stretch
their legs in summer. The circuit begins by scaling the 200m-high Rosengartenschlucht (Rose
Garden Ravine), where boarded walkways
make for an easy ascent and the vertiginous
views of a cascading river are memorable. The
trail then weaves through shady pine forest,
providing fine views of the Lechtaler Alps, and
reaches a grotto with a glittering blue pool.
Before descending to Imst, there is a chance
to cool off in the pure waters of a tree-fringed
lake and to pick up speed on one of the worlds
longest Alpine roller coasters. The walking is
gentle, but sturdy footwear is recommended
as some sections can get slippery.
For more details on this walk, pick up the
1:25,000 ImstGurgltal map from the tourist
office (see p358) opposite the Johanneskirche
in central Imst.

Getting to/from the Walk

The walk starts and finishes at the Johanneskirche (St Johns Church), just across from
the tourist office in central Imst. From here,
there are signs to the Rosengartenschlucht,
and the trail is well marked and easy to follow. For details on public transport services
operating to/from Imst, see p358.

The Walk
The circuit begins on the path behind the
frescoed Johanneskirche in Imst and shadows the crystal-clear Schinderbach (Schinder
River) upstream to the entrance of the
Rosengartenschlucht. On the right-hand side
of the trail, take note of the unusual Berghusl,
cavelike dwellings that have been hewn out of
the sheer rock face. Soon youll catch your first
glimpse of the river, which gushes through
a narrow ravine gouged out during the last
ice age. The cool, damp environment here

tta
vre sse
Sil stra
en
alp

Gasthof
Silvrettahaus Piz Buin

h
oc

Bielerhhe

ac

tb

un

m
er

ein

Kl

START
END

Madlenerhaus

1 km
0.5 miles

To Landeck
(48km)

Bielerspitze
(2545m)

ach

alb

elt

Silvr
Stau etta
see

Bi

Lo
bsp

l
t a
ute
e l
e Ro
B i lternativ
A

itz

en

(2760m)

(2835m)

(2799m)

tal

ter

Kl
os

Radsee

Hohes Rad
(2934m)

er
ba

ch

Radkopf
(2751m)

Kleine
Schatten Spitze
(2703m)

Radsattel
(2652m)

Bieltalkopf
(2797m)

Klostertaler
Egghorn
(3120m)

Schattenspitzgletscher

Klo
ste
Gle raler
tsch
er

Rotfluh
(3166m)

Rauher Kopf
(3101m)

Schattenspitze
(3202m)

Schneeglockengletscher
(3223m)

Wiesbadener
Htte

Spring of
Ill River

Silvrettahorn
(3244m)

Silvretta Egghorn
(3147m)
Signalhorn
(3210m)

Tiroler Kopf
(3095m)

Ochsenkopf
(3057m)

Vermuntgletscher

Ochsentaler
Gletscher

Silvretta
Gletscher

ner

fer

ltal

Bie

Edmund-Lorenz-Weg

linked by a pass. Highlights include fabulous glacier

scenery and rushing meltwater streams.

Schattenkopf
(2654m)

Duration Five to six hours

Distance 15km
Difficulty Medium
Nearest Town Bielerhhe (p378)
Summary A scenic mountain circuit exploring two valleys

0
0

r
ve
Ri e
Ill s

RADSATTEL CIRCUIT (VORARLBERG)

Getting to/from the Walk

The circuit starts at the Silvretta Stausee.
Situated at the top of the Silvretta Hochalpenstrasse toll road (car 11.50), the reservoir straddles the border of Vorarlberg and
Tyrol at an altitude of 2034m. Bielerhhe
is the name given to the pass at the top
of the Hochalpenstrasse, adjacent to the
Silvretta Stausee. Frequent buses run between Partenen and Bielerhhe in summer
(p378).

RADSATTEL CIRCUIT
To Schruns
(34km):
Bludenz
(46km)

93

gruppe and F&B 1:50,000 map No 373

Silvretta Hochalpenstrasse Piz Buin both
cover the route, but Alpenvereinskarte 1:
25,000 map No 26 Silvrettagruppe is more
detailed.

longest Alpine roller coaster and offers a

thrilling ride down the mountains. A gondola shuttles passengers uphill to the starting
point, where they board self-controlled bobs
to catapult 3.5km downhill, negotiating tricky
bumps and hairpin bends. If ever there was an
incentive to get the little uns to walk, surely
this must be it!
From here, take the path next to the Sonneck apartments that skirts around the edge
of houses and runs parallel to the Fit 2000
track (a fitness trail through the forest that
is popular with joggers and nordic walkers).
The trail soon begins its gradual and steady
descent through fir and pine forest, where
blueberries ripen on the bushes in summer.
About halfway down, the Wetterkreuz comes
into view; this cross atop a craggy hillock affords sweeping views across the rooftops of
Imst, the broad Gurgltal and the snow-capped
mountains that rise beyond.
Aside from occasional slippery roots and
rocks, the forest trail is easy walking and
winds down to Am Bergl, home to the tiny
but beautiful Lourdeskapelle (Lourdes
Chapel). On the way back down to Imst, culture vultures should also take a peek at the
Pestkapelle, a chapel commemorating victims
of the 17th-century plague epidemic, and the
whitewashed Laurentiuskirche, one of Tyrols
oldest churches, which has a wood-shingle
roof and relics dating from the 5th century.
This path leads to the Kreuzweg, a centuriesold pilgrim route that eventually brings you
back to the Johanneskirche.

This scenic route makes a circuit of two of the

valleys near the turquoise Silvretta Stausee
reservoir, climbing over the Radsattel at
2652m to cross from one valley to the other.
The 700m of ascent and descent means that
its not exactly a walk in the park, but it
is relatively straightforward and there are
great scenic rewards. The approach route
brings you face-to-face with the mighty
Piz Buin (3312m), the highest peak in the
Silvretta range. Higher up, there are views
of shimmering glaciers and long sections
of path routed alongside tumbling alpine
streams. An alternative finish offers experienced walkers the option of scrambling to
the rocky summit of Hohes Rad (2934m).
Kompass 1:50,000 map No 41 Silvretta Verwall-

22; Hoch-Imst 19; adult/child 9.70/7.80; h10am-5pm MaySep, 10am-5pm Thu-Sun Oct) is billed as the worlds

W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A R a d s a t t e l C i r c u i t ( V o r a r l b e r g )

passes a stream flanked by a pebbly beach.

Pause on the narrow forest trail to take a refreshing dip in the Badesee, an aquamarine
lake ringed by fir trees; its a peaceful and
beautiful spot to while away the hours on a
lazy summer afternoon.
Arriving in Hoch-Imst, approximately 1
hours from the start of the walk, the real fun
begins for kids. The Alpine Coaster (%05412-663

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supports a tremendous array of flora and

fauna; as well as maple, ash, alder and larch
trees are rarer species such as the red-winged
wallcreeper bird and the wayfaring tree.
The wooden footbridge traversing the river
is the first in a series of many that zigzag to the
top of the gorge. From this low-level perspective, the scale of the cataract is impressive
vertical dolomite and limestone cliffs tower
above, and a torrent of water cascades into
pools that glint turquoise in the sun. The climb
is gradual and easy, though care should be
taken on some sections where rocks are loose
underfoot and wooden planks are slippery;
cables are occasionally provided to ensure a
good grip. After roughly 20 minutes, the chasm
narrows and the walk becomes more dramatic
youll be ducking under overhanging rock
faces, contouring around the cliffs and ascending steps carved into the rock. From the
bench at Schne Aussicht there are jaw-dropping
views of the ravine above and below.
As you pass the fast-flowing river and charcoal grey cliffs speckled with moss, ferns and
lichen, the trail twists through two tunnels
hollowed out of the rock face that act as resonating chambers for the vibrations from the
rumbling water. The fissure narrows further
still to barely a slit, and its almost possible
to reach out and touch the other side. Light
begins to flood the scene as you emerge at the
Holzbrcke bridge after around 45 minutes; its
an excellent vantage point above the gorge and
rapids, so have your camera handy.
After leaving the gorge, continue straight
ahead on the well-prepared trail signed to
Hoch-Imst. Still following the course of the
Schinderbach, the sandy track cuts a path
through fragrant pine forest and low scrub,
providing panoramic vistas of the surrounding Lechtaler Alps, including the jagged peak
of Muttekopf (2774m) and the wooded slopes
of Hahntennjoch (1884m). With a bit of luck,
youll hear the cuckoos and woodpeckers that
inhabit these woodlands.
A steady and gentle climb leads up through
the forest and affords snapshot views of the
verdant meadows and snowy summits ahead.
Around an hour from the start of the walk,
youll emerge at the Blaue Grotte, a cave pool
that turns a striking shade of blue when the
sun hits it. The history of the grotto dates back
2000 years to when Romans searched these
cliffs for semiprecious metals. Shortly after,
the path veers right towards Hoch-Imst and

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W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A R a d s a t t e l C i r c u i t ( V o r a r l b e r g )

92

Dreilnder
Spitze
(3197m)

Piz Jeramias
(3136m)

Piz Buin
(3312m)

ITALY

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W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A R a d s a t t e l C i r c u i t ( V o r a r l b e r g )

The Walk
From the Silvretta Stausee car park, walk
over the dam and join the well-worn path
that skirts around the reservoirs western
shore, pausing to admire the views of the
milky green lake framed by brooding peaks.
Here youll catch your first glimpse of the
cone-shaped Hohes Rad (2934m), which you
will be walking around later. A sign warns
that stiletto-heeled shoes are not appropriate footwear! The path rounds the southern
end of the lake, first crossing a bridge over
the fast-flowing Klostertaler Bach; keep to
the shoreline as you follow the route. Soon
youll traverse the glacially cold Ill River,
which cuts a path through the Ochsental
Valley at the southeastern corner of the reservoir. Shortly after the second bridge you
reach a junction. Turn right here and start
up the trail signed to the Wiesenbadener
Htte.
The path to the hut is wide and follows
the east bank of the Ill towards the arrowshaped peak of Piz Buin (3312m) at the head
of the valley. The climb is steady throughout and the scenery offers plenty of distraction; at least four magnificent glaciers
come into view as you gain height: to the
west Schattenspitzgletscher (3202m) and
Schneeglockengletscher (3223m), and up
ahead the Vermuntgletscher and the heavily
crevassed Ochsentaler Gletscher suspended
above the valley and glistening ice blue.
The gradual ascent continues and reaches
the Wiesbadener Htte (%05558-42 33; mattresses/
beds 15/20; hmid-Junearly Oct) and its small adjacent chapel around two to 2 hours from the
start. Nestled at the foot of Piz Buin and just
a stones throw away from the spring where
the Ill rises, this alpine hut is a great place
to unwind on the sunny terrace, refuel with
a bite to eat and enjoy the panoramic vistas
of the surrounding snow-dusted mountains
and glaciers.
At the back of the hut, signs attached to
a concrete shelter indicate the Radsattel to
the left. Following the Edmund-Lorenz-Weg,
the path is now much narrower and rougher
underfoot, and is marked by red-and-white
paint splashes. Zigzag steeply up the slope
behind the hut and cross a small stream. Keep
right on the opposite bank and climb a rise
topped by a large cairn. The path can now be
seen rising and dipping across the undulating
terrain up to saddle itself. Cross the outlet of

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a shallow pool before making the final steep

climb to the narrow Radsattel, where a sign
marks the Vorarlberg-Tyrol border (one to
1 hours from the hut).
Drop steeply down the rocky, boulderstrewn eastern side of the pass, possibly crossing a couple of small snowfields near the top.
There are great chances of spotting ibex up
here (some of them are quite tame), so keep
an eye out for their distinctive backwardcurving horns. You will pass several small
lakes and then the Radsee, a sparkling jewellike lake fringed by greenery, on your way
down to the Bieltal (Biel Valley). While this
valley is less dramatic than the previous one,
the smaller path and lack of hut makes it feel
more remote, and its certainly tempting to
linger beside the bubbling Bieltalbach on
the valley floor, flanked by meadows where
cows graze.
Follow the path along the west bank of
the stream all the way to the mouth of the
valley, where an extraction unit takes the
water from the river and the path widens
into a vehicle track. Continue west to the
banks of the Silvretta Stausee and turn
right along the lake. Once back at the main
road turn left and follow the pavement for
about 300m to return to the car park where
you started (1 to two hours from the
Radsattel).
ALTERNATIVE ROUTE: VIA HOHES RAD

2 to three hours, 6.5km, 280m ascent,

980m descent

For a more challenging end to the route, turn

left (north) at the Radsattel instead of dropping down into the Bieltal. The path contours
around the eastern slopes of Hohes Rad (some
patches of snow may need to be crossed)
before climbing over a spur and reaching a
signed junction. The path straight ahead drops
down to Bielerhhe and joins the described
route shortly before it reaches the Silvretta
Stausee. The path to the left scrambles up the
rock to the cross that marks the summit of
Hohes Rad. Hands will definitely be needed
for balance over this section, but the route is
marked with red paint splashes throughout.
The breathtaking 360-degree views from the
top make the extra effort worthwhile: Piz
Buin and the pointed peak of Silvrettahorn
(3244m) loom large on the horizon. Return
to the junction and turn left to the Bielerhhe
to complete the circuit.

W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A G o s a u k a m m C i r c u i t ( S a l z b u r g e r L a n d )

SALZBURGER LAND &

SALZKAMMERGUT
GOSAUKAMM CIRCUIT
(SALZBURGER LAND)

Duration Two days

Distance 22km
Difficulty Medium
Nearest Town Filzmoos (p286)
Summary A satisfying circuit that circumnavigates a
limestone massive. It features towering rock pinnacles, a
200m pass and high forest trails.

Gosaukamm is the name given to the most

westerly massif in the Dachstein range, a
compact group of serrated limestone peaks
containing seven summits over 2000m
high. The scenery is reminiscent of the
Italian Dolomites to the south: pinnacles
and spires tower above sheets of scree and
there is one section of magnificent limestone pavement. The lower slopes of the
massif have vegetation, however, and this
circuit undulates around the tree line. As
the path circumnavigates the massif, the
scenery alternates between pine forest and
stark, rocky terrain.
The itinerary given here is for a two-day
walk, and much of the climbing comes on
the first day of the walk. The most challenging terrain comes around the Steiglpass
(2016m), the highest point of the circuit.
The ascent to the pass involves a series of
ledges and gullies with moderate exposure.
Cables are in place for security and most
fit walkers should be able to negotiate the
section, with a little care.
The porous limestone rock of the Dachstein range means that natural water sources
are few and far between. On this route, the
huts provide the only reliable sources of
water. Make sure to fill up with enough
water at each hut to last you until you arrive at the next one. F&B 1:50,000 map No
281 Dachstein Ausseer Land Filzmoos
Ramsau covers the route. Alternatively,
for more detail, use the Alpenvereinskarte
1:25,000 map No 14 Dachsteingebirge.

Getting to/from the Walk

The Filzmooser Wanderbus runs regular
shuttles between Filzmoos and Hofalm
(3.50, 15 minutes, five daily Sunday to

95

Friday) from the end of May to the end of

October. Regular bus services are provided
by Postbus between Filzmoos and Eben
(adult/child 2.70/1.40, 20 minutes, six daily
Monday to Friday, three daily Saturday),
where there are connections to Salzburg.
This route can also be accessed from the
north, starting and finishing at the Gosausee,
7km south of Gosau village. The advantage of starting here is that you can use the
Gosaukammbahn (%06134-84 00; one way/return
7.30/10.70; h8.15am-4.50pm mid-MayOct) to gain
550m in height and arrive directly at the
Gablonzer Htte.

The Walk
DAY 1: HOFALM TO GABLONZER HTTE

Five to six hours, 10km, 1120m ascent,

880m descent

From the Hofalm car park, take the path

that leads north past two restaurants. Follow
signs for the Hofprglhtte, veering right
after the second restaurant to begin climbing
up to the left of a white limestone gully. The
path is steep for most of the way, though the
gradient eases somewhat towards the end.
After climbing for about an hour you reach a
junction at the top; turn left and continue for
200m if you want to take a break on the scenic
terrace of the large Hofprglhtte (%06453-83
04; mattresses/beds 16/22; hJun-early Oct). Perched
high on a grassy hillock, the hut commands
tremendous views of the jagged turrets that
frame the horizon.
To continue the route retrace your steps
and continue straight ahead at the junction
where you joined the path to the hut, following signs to the Steiglpass. The path to
the pass can be seen zigzagging up the rock
wall ahead, though you must descend across
a shallow cirque before you start the climb.
Photographers will want to capture the distinctive profile of the Grosse Bischofsmtze
(2458m) on the left-hand side; shaped like a
bishops mitre, this is the highest peak in the
Gosaukamm range. The ascent begins over
loose stones but crosses the crags themselves
in the upper reaches, negotiating the most
challenging terrain of the entire circuit. You
are likely to need your hands for balance as
you cross rock ledges and mount stony steps,
and a moderate amount of exposure keeps
your attention on the task at hand. Fortunately
cables are in place for security where
required.

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W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A G o s a u k a m m C i r c u i t ( S a l z b u r g e r L a n d )

W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A Te n n e n g e b i r g e C i r c u i t ( S a l z b u r g e r L a n d )

0
0

GOSAUKAMM CIRCUIT
To Gosau
(6km)

Go
sa
u

bac

Gosaukammbahn

ai
lN
o.

61

Gablonzer Htte

1 km
0.5 miles

Vo

Tr

rd

Go

sau

see

Holzmeisteralm

aw

stri

Au

Kleiner Donnerkogel
(1916m)
Grosser Donnelkogel
(2054m)
Steinriesen Kogel
(2008m)

eg

Strichkogel
(2035m)

Gosaulacke

Gosaulacke

Angerstein
(2100m)

Mandlkogel
(2279m)

k
a

Wasserkar Kogel
(2221m)

Stuhlalm
Theodor-Krnerhtte
St

uh

Hint
Gosausee

Dumling
(2322m)

Steiglkogel
(2204m)

Grosse
Bischofsmtze
(2458m)

Trail

DAY 2: GABLONZER HTTE TO HOFALM

Steiglpass
(2018m)

No.

(Cirq
ue)

611

lloch

Losegg
(1647m)

Gabelkogel
(1909m)

Sternkogel
(2325m)
Grosswand
(2415m)
Jchl
(1601m)

Mitterkogel
(2122m)
Sammetkogel
(2058m)

Sulzkaralm

Leckkogel
(2032m)
Hofprglhtte

Hofalm

START
END

Around one hour from the Hofprglhtte,

you arrive at the Steiglpass (2018m), where you
may have to traverse the occasional snowfield, even in summer. You are now right
up amongst the pinnacles and spires on the
main ridge of the Gosaukamm massif, and
the views are impressive in both directions:
Grosse Bischofsmtze, Dumling (2322m),
Gabelkogel (1909m) and the formidable glaciated peaks of the Dachstein massif are all visible. Its little wonder that for many walkers,
the pass is the highlight of the circuit.
The trail continues to cross the pass and begins to descend gradually though a wonderful
lunar landscape of limestone pavement and
escarpments. You descend several rock steps
and one small gully, but the obstacles serve

W
Ma arm
ndl e
ing

Lienkpfl
(1536m)
Hacklplatten
(1546m)

a steady descent. Keep an eye open for the

junction signed to the Gablonzer Htte. Turn
left onto a much fainter trail (a sure sign
that most walkers descend to the Gosausee
here) and traverse the slopes to join the main
GosauseeGablonzer path.
This well-trodden path begins by climbing
steeply but eases as it passes through a grove
of beech trees. Join a gravel track at the top of
the climb, turn left and continue for 200m to
the Gablonzer Htte (%06136-84 65; mattresses/beds
18/24; hJunmid-Oct), around 1 to two hours
from the memorial chapel. The sunny terrace of the hut has a great view southeast to
the ice-capped summit of Hoher Dachstein
(2995m), which is the highest peak in the
Dachstein range.

To Filzmoos
(5km)

as entertaining distractions rather than real

challenges. The path eventually weaves out
of the rock, and continues to descend gently
through pine and larch woodlands, which are
a riot of colour in autumn. Around one hour
from the pass you reach a small, triangularroofed memorial chapel, the Gedenkkapelle, in
a clearing to the left of the path. The memorial
commemorates all those who have perished in
the mountains of the area, and in particular
the 18-year-old first female ascendant of the
nearby Dumling pinnacle, who died during
the descent.
Continue to weave through the wood,
passing several cabins. The deep green waters
of the Gosausee soon come into view to
the right and the switchbacks steepen into

4 to 5 hours, 12km, 360m ascent,

600m descent

Begin by climbing the hillock directly opposite the entrance to the hut, following the
signs to Austriaweg and Theodor-KrnerHtte (trail No 611). At the top of the hill,
veer right, pass through a metal turnstile, and
begin to descend gently through shady fir,
pine and larch forest. The path picks a way
through the vegetation and re-emerges at the
open pasture around the Stuhlalm. Here you
join a broad track, turn left and pass a cluster
of wooden huts, where refreshments, food
and accommodation are available. Continue
along the track for a further 500m to reach the
picturesque Theodor-Krner-Htte (%0664-916
6303; mattresses/beds 10/14; hJunmid-Oct), 1 to
two hours from the start.
From the Theodor-Krner-Htte, return
along the access track for 100m and veer right
onto a footpath signed to the Hofprglhtte.
A descent brings you into a cirque bordered
by dwarf pines, Stuhlloch, where jagged
limestone pinnacles begin to dominate the
skyline once more. Contour around the base
of the cirque and you will be presented with
the most exciting part of the days route: a
steep, zigzagging climb between the sheer
rock walls of a narrow gully. Your passage
through this dramatic ravine is eased by a
long flight of steps and occasional sections
of cable. The Jchl (1601m), at the top of the
gully, is reached around 40 minutes after leaving the Theodor-Krner-Htte.
The path now makes an undulating traverse
across a series of meadows, passing over sev-

97

eral spurs and keeping left at four trail junctions. Alpine roses and gentian bloom on this
high grassland in early summer, and theres
a chance youll glimpse chamois and marmots. A final shoulder is rounded and the
Hofprglhtte comes into sight on a ridge
ahead. Contour across to the hut, arriving 1
to 1 hours after leaving the Jchl.
To return to the Hofalm, retrace your
original ascent route from day one (45 minutes). If you plan to return to Filzmoos by
foot, however, you may prefer to take the
path that leaves from the front terrace of the
Hofprglhtte and descend gently through
woodland before joining the Hofalm road
for the final few kilometres to the village; if
you chose this option, add one to two hours
to the days duration.

TENNENGEBIRGE CIRCUIT
(SALZBURGER LAND)

Duration Eight to nine hours

Difficulty Medium to difficult
Distance 15km
Nearest Town Werfen (p285)
Summary A high-altitude trail around a vast limestone
plateau. Highlights include enthralling climbs, steep
descents and memorable views of the Hochknig massif.

Slung high above Werfen, the Tennengebirge

is a karst plateau that is wild, isolated and
beautiful in its austerity. Trekking through
this surreal landscape of rounded heights,
snow-filled cirques and sheer cliffs is a one-off
experience. If youre keen to get off the welltrodden track, this day hike offers challenging
walking involving almost 1000m of ascent and
some scrambling. Walkers should have a good
head for heights and be sure-footed for the
initial climb and steep descent; undertaking
this trek alone is not recommended.
Snowfields mean that this hike is best attempted from July to early September, and an
early start is essential. Aside from emergency
shelters, there is very little up here, so you
should pack enough food and water for the
day. Paths are waymarked, but youll need a
proper map, such as Kompass 1: 50,000 map
No 15 Tennengebirge Hochknig, and possibly
a compass.

Getting to/from the Walk

Take the cable car (one way 4.50) to
Achsenkogel and walk roughly 15 minutes
uphill to the trailhead. The trek starts on the

98

W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A Te n n e n g e b i r g e C i r c u i t ( S a l z b u r g e r L a n d )

W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A O b e r t r a u n t o H a l l s t a t t ( S a l z k a m m e r g u t )

cluding Hhnerkrall (2289m). Sporadic cables

ensure safety, but sure-footedness and a sturdy
grip are needed as you clamber up and over
the rocks. This exposed section of the trek is
undoubtedly exciting, but it can be torturous
under a blazing sun, so its advisable to tackle
it early. The zigzagging ascent quickly gains
elevation and involves some easy scrambling.
The icing on the cake, however, is climbing
two (slightly wobbly!) ladders that scale the
vertical rocks and get the adrenaline pumping.
The trail crosses piles of scree and passes a
memorial on the left-hand side, which commemorates two mountaineers who lost their
lives here in 1994.
Around two hours from the trailhead,
theres a sense of achievement upon reaching the magnificent karst plateau, a vast, grey
desert of undulating limestone where snowfields often linger till summer. The Jagdhtte
emergency shelter lies to the left, but you
should sidle right and follow the signs for
Leopold-Happisch-Haus. Bordered by dwarf
pines and tussock grass, the path traverses
the plateau and leads gently up natural
steps hewn into the rock. When clouds cast

right-hand side of the path winding up to

Eisriesenwelt. For further details on getting
there and away, see p285.

The Walk
Heading up on the path between the cablecar top station and Eisriesenwelt, take the
narrow trail on the right, signed Steig (trail
No 212), towards Leopold-Happisch-Haus,
indicated by a red-and-white stripe on the
rocks. The hardest climbing of the days trek
starts here with loose rocks underfoot, a steep
incline, and a breathtakingly sheer 1000m
drop to your right. While the going isnt easy,
the awesome views more than compensate:
below, the Salzach River snakes through pastures that form a rich patchwork of greenery,
while ahead the towering limestone cliffs are
scored with crevices and riddled with caves.
The sign Steinschlag Mglich reminds hikers
to keep their distance from the cliffs because
of falling rocks.
The precipitous track contours around
the cliff face, passing slopes covered in dwarf
pines, and affording head-spinning views of
the valley below and the summits above, in-

0
0

TENNENGEBIRGE CIRCUIT

TENNENGEBIRGE

Leopold-HappischHaus

212

29

o2

lN

i
Tra

Sign to
VordStreitmandl
(2202m)
Jagdhtte
(2092m)
Memorial
Eisriesenwelt
(1646m)
o
Trail N
START

Hhnerkrallkopf
(2403m)

ve

i
h R
Salzac

Achsenkogel Hhnerkrall
(2289m)
Cablecar to
Lehnender
Eisriesenwelt
Stein
(1076-1582m)
(2400m)

Hinteres
(2223m)

Hochpfeiler
(2410m)
Streitmandl
Mittleres
(2360m)

Tenneck

END

Raucheck
(2430m)

Werfen

Grosses-Fieberhorn
(2276m)
Hochthron
Kleines(2362m)
Fieberhorn
(2152m)

Tr
a

E55
Festung
Itohenwerfen

il

No

43

Buses to Trail No 33
Eisriesenwelt
Cable Car

Alternative Finish Point

Edelweisserhtte
Vorderes
Sign to GrieskarMahdegg

Alpengasthof
Mahdegg

800 m
0.4 miles

shadows across the contours of this rugged

and starkly beautiful landscape, the effect
is otherworldly.
The trail climbs further and, glancing back,
the jagged pinnacles of the Hochknig range
are visible. Roughly three hours into the
hike, keep an eye out for the sign to VordStreitmandl (trail No 229). This track continues to scale the ridges of the plateau, but is
now waymarked with a red dot in a white circle
(similar to the Japanese flag). It can be tricky
to stay on the path if there are snowfields,
as the markings are sometimes obscured, so
particular care is needed when traversing the
bowl-shaped depressions and cirques. Though
challenging, the walking here is extremely
satisfying and the far-reaching views reveal
the Alps tumbling down to the flats, including
the twin peaks of Hhnerkrallkopf (2403m)
and Hochpfeiler (2410m) to your left.
The trail soon emerges in front of the
dramatic Lehnender Stein (2400m) precipice,
which provides heart-stopping views of the
valley below. These cliffs are home to nesting
eagles and, while you may spot one if youre
lucky, youre far more likely to hear their
high-pitched screech. Another pleasant halfhour is spent wandering past steely turrets
before weaving up a rocky path to the exposed
and wind-buffeted peak of Raucheck (2430m),
the highest mountain in the Tennengebirge
range. The amazing views from the summit,
marked by a silver cross, make all the puffing and panting worthwhile: the 360-degree
panorama of the Northern Limestone Alps is
difficult to drag yourself away from.
Around six hours from the start of the
hike, its all downhill on the trail veering right
signed to Grieskar-Mahdegg. While the prospect of skipping down the hillside may seem
like a breeze after all that climbing, the tough
descent is designed to test tired legs and is
easily underestimated. The track zigzags down
a deep ravine, where care is needed climbing over weatherworn limestone dotted with
fissures and sinkholes. Look back to admire
the spectacular trio of horned peaks: Grosses
Fieberhorn (2276m), Kleines Fieberhorn
(2152m) and Hochthron (2362m).
The trail descends relentlessly for roughly
another hour, traversing rocks and a ladder before culminating in a series of tight
switchbacks down extremely steep slopes of
scree and boulders. The fabulous vistas of
the Hochknig massifs pinnacles crowding the

99

horizon bolster waning spirits and there are

good chances of sighting the nimble-footed
chamois that inhabit these upper reaches. Its
quite a relief to catch sight of the first dwarf
pines speckling the slopes, as these signal your
gradual approach to the tree line.
The relief at reaching the tree line is
overwhelming finally earth that does not slip
or slide! The narrow trail now weaves through
pine forest and becomes much flatter and
easier, though the gnarled roots and leaning
trees can be a bit of an obstacle course. After
a steady hour-long march, the Alpengasthof
Mahdegg sails into view. Keep your eyes peeled
for the small sign indicating the trail (trail
No 43) that will take you back to the starting point, which winds through shady beech
and fir forest, and provides snapshot views of
Werfen. Eventually the path brings you out
onto the road to Eisriesenwelt; turn right,
and the car park is about 10 minutes stroll.
The alternative is to take the zigzagging route
(trail No 33) from Alpengasthof Mahdegg
down to central Werfen, which takes just
under an hour.

OBERTRAUN TO HALLSTATT
(SALZKAMMERGUT)

Duration Six to seven hours

Distance 18km
Difficulty Easy to medium
Nearest Town Obertraun (p252)/Hallstatt (p250)
Summary A picturesque and spectacular walk around
the shores of the pristine Hallsttter See (Lake Hallstatt)
against a backdrop of towering mountains, with
opportunities for swimming.

The Hallsttter See is a magnificently pristine

lake in the Salzkammergut region, surrounded
by soaring peaks and providing excellent opportunities for summer swimming. Few trails
in Austria match this circuit for lakeside
beauty. The walk initially follows the shore
of the lake along the easy and mostly level
Ostuferwanderweg (Eastern Shore Hiking
Trail) from Obertraun, joins the historic
Soleweg (Brine Pipeline Trail) at the northern end of the lake, then continues along this
winding and spectacular trail past a waterfall
to Rudolfsturm, a scenic lookout-restaurant
above Hallstatt. The section along the eastern
shore can be done any time of year and in any
conditions, while the Soleweg requires a good
level of fitness, good shoes and a reasonable
head for heights. Children will need careful

100 W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A O b e r t r a u n t o H a l l s t a t t ( S a l z k a m m e r g u t )

supervision in this section. The Soleweg section should be attempted in winter only in good
conditions and with appropriate clothing.

Getting to/from the Walk

This walk begins in Obertraun and heads
anticlockwise around the lake. It is also possible to start at Rudolfsturm in Hallstatt. From
Obertraun train station, follow the line northwest along Bahnhofstrasse for 200m, cross the
line and veer right. The trail begins just after
the ferry terminal, 10 minutes walk from the
tourist office.

The Walk
After leaving Obertraun, follow the trail above
the lake shore around the forested Sechserkogel,
with its rocky outcrops. If you are combining a hike with a swim, the bluff is one of
the more attractive places for swimming off
rocks, although its best approached from the
water itself. However, there are plenty of other
opportunities to paddle or swim along the
eastern shore.
After 1.5km the trail leads across the Hallstatt train station and, shortly after, continues

W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A O b e r t r a u n t o H a l l s t a t t ( S a l z k a m m e r g u t ) 101

along a walkway attached to the rock face

above the water. This is the deepest section
of the Hallsttter See (125m). This part of the
walk affords some splendid views up the lake
between the wonderfully carved rock faces
flanking the valley, petering out at the northern tip of the lake at the settlement of Steeg
and the mouth of the Traun River.
From the walkway, the trail continues along
a gravel path among riverbank acacias, pines,
larch, fir and beech. This is also a botanical
theme path, so the vegetation is often marked
along the way. Keep left at the fork in the trail
(and at all forks on this section). From here
it is about another 15 minutes walk along
the waters edge to Seeraunzn (%0676-433 12 63;
Obersee 41; mains 5.50-12; h10am-8pm Easter Sun-Oct),
a lakeside restaurant that is a great place to
recover strength for the tougher Soleweg leg
of the walk.
About 1 hours into the Ostuferweg section the trail approaches Steeg and joins a
small access road leading under the railway
line. Follow the trail left and around. At the
T-junction, Strandbadstrasse runs left under
the railway line again to the Steeg public beach.
0
0

OBERTRAUN TO HALLSTATT
Zlam
ba

Trau

166

ch

Hornkogel
(862m)

Au
Steeg- (578m)
Riv Gosau
er
Salzkam
merw

Steeg

eg

Hydroelectric
Power Station

Steeg
Public
Beach

Gosau
hals

Go
sau
ba
ch

Wasserlallkogel
(1662m)

eg

G ei e r g

Workers' Hut

166

Gosauzwang
Bridge

ch
lba
h

Pfarrkirche

Hallstatt

Rudolfsturm

rn
ke

ta

Rocks
END
ch
ba

ald

an
Ob e r e B r

dgr

a be

Se c
hser

koge
l
Hallstatt Ferry
Terminal

Salzberg

Hohe Sieg
(1151m)

Hoher Sattelkogel
(1539m)

Hallstatt

Wehrkogel
(1128m)
START
Obertraun
Ferry Station

Obertraun
Lahn

nh

Feuerkogel
(1704m)

Hallsttter See

Hhnerkogel
(1386m)

Solestube
Kaiser-Franz-Joseph Mine
Waterfall
Salt Mine

Ec

Seeraunzn

642

Schneldkogel
(1552m)

Solinggerkogel
(1406m)

n
a be

Obersee-Elmer

Gosaueck
(1484m)

Blekarkogel
(1505m)

Schwarzkogel
(1800m)

Falleck
(1617m)

Obersee

Lckerkogel
(1597m)
le
So

Ra
ms
au
ge
bi
rg
e

Untersee

Naturist
Beach

Steegwirt
Elferkogel
(1580m)

145

le

ObertraunDachsteinhhlen

1 km
0.5 miles

IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF PILGRIMS

A historic path, the Pilgrims Way (Pilgerweg), connects St Gilgen and St Wolfgang via the western
shore of the Hallsttter Sea (Lake Hallstatt). In the past pilgrims followed this path to honour
St Wolfgang, the bishop who was said to have founded the church in St Wolfgang village by
throwing his axe from the Falkenstein hill into the valley below and building the church on the
spot where it fell.
The walk takes half a day and maps are available from the tourist offices in St Wolfgang and
St Gilgen. The path starts from Furberg, near St Gilgen, and climbs the Falkenstein (795m) before
continuing through the village of Reid to St Wolfgang. Apart from the fairly steep climb to the
top of the Falkenstein, the walk isnt too strenuous (remind yourself that many pilgrims did it
with lentils in their shoes or naked with iron rings around their necks as a sign of penance!).
There are various things to see along the way, including a stone that still apparently bears the
marks of the St Wolfgangs buttocks. It became as soft as wax in a miracle sent by God to allow
the saint to rest his weary bones.

This (clothed) beach area has sunbathing

platforms, a diving board and a childrens
slide. Beyond this (across the creek) is the
rather swampy but lovely FKK naturist beach.
Experienced swimmers can shorten the walk
by tackling the 500m across the mouth of the
Traun River (dont forget to bring your watertight bag and check out the water temperature
first). If you do this, aim for the small clearing
at the camping ground. You will need to walk
back towards the power station from there to
resume the walk.
Walkers should backtrack from the beach
to the T-junction and keep going straight
before turning left at the fork with the traffic
mirror and crossing the small bridge. Here the
Salzkammerweg (trail No A17) ascends into a
grove of trees above the cliffs, or alternatively
you can take the road (Arikoglstrasse) at the
foot of the cliffs. After about 750m, those taking the cliff path will reach the road; head left
and about 100m later turn right into the trail at
the orchard. Walkers following Arikoglstrasse
should turn left into this trail at this orchard;
follow it around to the B166 main road.
This section is the least attractive part of the
walk, but the lovely beer garden at riverside
Steegwirt (%06135-8302; Au 12; mains 8-12; h10am9pm, closed Tue Nov-Mar) offers relief.
From Steegwirt, cross the Traun River, follow the road south for about 150m past the
hydroelectric power station and turn right
onto Salzstubenweg. This ascends for another
150m to join the Soleweg to Hallstatt.
Forget all about low lakeside trails now. The
Soleweg (also called in parts Soleleitungsweg)
follows the precarious path hacked into the
Ramsau mountains between 1597 and 1607

for a pipeline, which transports brine from the

nearby salt mines. It is reputed to be the oldest
in the world and was originally made from
hollowed-out tree trunks fitted together.
Approximately 1.5km from the point where
you join the Soleweg, the trail leads past a
small workers hut (admission free; hsummer), which
contains a small exhibition (in German) on
the pipeline and salt in the region. Just after
this is one of the walk highlights: the 43mhigh Gosauzwang bridge spanning a gorge
carved out by the Gosaubach (Gosau Brook).
Sections of the walk after the bridge require
care in parts, especially the stretch from a
2.5km marker to the turn-off to Hallstatt. In
several places you will need to duck beneath
rocks and avoid dripping water while making
sure you keep your distance from the steep
edges of the path. But the rewards here are
many, with some great views to the lake.
The trail divides at the 1km marker the trail
divides. The path to the left leads 500m down
into Hallstatt, emerging behind the 15thcentury Pfarrkirche (p251). If youre approaching the trail from the opposite direction, this
is an easy entry point, but you will miss the
sensational views from the Rudolfsturm.
The trail to the right becomes steep and
narrower, passing a Solestube, where the
volume and pressure of brine in the pipes
is controlled. As you ascend, Hallstatt can
be glimpsed below through the trees. About
300m after a steep climb, you reach a lookout
and the Kaiser-Franz-Joseph mine. Steps from
here lead past a waterfall, where the Mhlbach
tumbles down a rock face towards Hallstatt.
Finally, after crossing an iron bridge and
negotiating more steps, this dramatic trail

This perennially popular day hike in the

Kitzbhel Alps combines gentle walking
with wonderful Alpine scenery. Sun-dappled
woodlands soon thin out and give way
to high pastures that are a delight to walk
through. To the south is a host of snow
white peaks to ogle, including the glaciated
summits of Grossglockner and the pyramidshaped Kitzsteinhorn, while to the north the
limestone turrets of the Kaisergebirge and
Watzmann slide into view.
In its entirety, the Pinzgauer Spaziergang
stretches 32km from the summertime boating
playground of Zell am See in the east right
across the crest of the range to Mittersill in
the west. Covering the second stretch from
Schmittenhhe to Saalbach, this five- to sixhour amble takes in the highlights of the trek
without the hard slog. Its generally easy to
stick to the trail, but Kompass 1:30,000 map
No 30 Zell am See Kaprun might come
in handy.

Getting to/from the Walk

The walk starts from the top station of the
Schmittenhhebahn (%06542-789-0; one way 16;
h9am-5pm mid-Maymid-Jun, 8.30am-5pm mid-JunOct)

in Zell am See. Gondolas depart roughly every

half hour. For details on public transport connections to/from Zell am See, go to p316.

ch

ba

Saalbachkogel
(2092m)

z b

h
NiedererGernkogel ObererGernkogel
(2153m) (2176m)
Zirmkogel
Klingertrl
(2215m)
(2059m)

Erzba
ch

en

To Saalfelden
(4km)

Sa a l a ch

Sonnkogel
(1856m)

A l

Maurerkogel
(2074m)

Rohrertrl
Klammscharte (1918m)
(1993m)

Viehhofen

h
ac

Ex

K i

ch

ba

hn

Stemmerkogel
(2123m)

Medalkogel
(2122m) Hochkogel
(2249m)

al

Schattberg Ost
(2018m)

s
er

Seetrl
(1964m)
Hackelberger
Seen

nb

Schattberg West
(2096m)

ld

76

Ex
e

Lehntal

ail

ch

enjoy the fantastic views into the Hohe Tauern National

Park without serious effort.

Tr

Saustelgen
(1912m)

rsba

Duration Five to six hours

Distance 19km
Difficulty Easy to medium
Nearest Town Zell am See (p312)
Summary Easy walking on grassy ridges allows you to

lach

Saa

Schaberg Kogel
(1888m)

END

2 km
1 mile

Sale

PINZGAUER SPAZIERGANG

From the top station of the Schmittenhhebahn

(1965m), follow the signs to Saalbach and the
Pinzgauer Spaziergang. The views are immediately spectacular: to the east the glistening Zeller See is a blotch of inky blue on
the Salzach Valley more than 1000m below,
while to the south the 3000m summits and
pearly-white glaciers of the Hohe Tauern National
Park spread out before you. The well-prepared
trail gently descends a ski slope flanked by
fir trees, passes a chairlift and emerges at
Kettingtrl. A slight incline brings you to a
flat ridge bordered by heather and bilberry
bushes, commanding views across undulating
alpine pastures.
Waymarked by a red-and-white stripe,
the path soon narrows. Following the ridge
trail through fir forest studded with deep
blue tarns, your gaze is often drawn left to
a stunning line-up of snowy peaks including
Austrias highest, Grossglockner (3798m), and
the glistening Kitzsteinhorn glacier (3203m)
in the foreground. This view, subtly changing
all the time, remains with you for the most of
the walk. You soon emerge out of the forest
onto a stony trail, where the panorama opens
up to the south and the landscape is a patchwork of heather, dwarf pines and ponds that
reflect the scenery above. From here, youll
catch your first glimpse of the rounded summit of Maurerkogel (2074m), which is still
dusted with snow in early summer.
Its now an easy amble along a snaking
track through pastures where cows graze
peacefully and colourful wildflowers such as
gentian and alpine roses bloom. After nearly
an hour of walking, the track contours around
the southern slopes of the Maurerkogel and
youll see the knobbly summit of ObererGernkogel (2175m) ahead. Continue along
the path, crossing the occasional meltwater
stream, and youll spy the wooden hut at
Sonnenbergalm on the left-hand side. Its
now a short and painless ascent to the saddle
of Rohrertrl (1918m), where you can contrast
the snow-free rocky limestone ranges to the

Saalbach

ress

HOHE TAUERN
NATIONAL PARK REGION

The Walk

0
0

PINZGAUER SPAZIERGANG

Schattberg X-p

The fort, built in the 13th century to protect

the salt mines, today offers fine food and views
from its hilltop location, 800m above the lake.
The historic salt mine and archaeological area
are just a short walk west of here. To end
your walk, the funicular (one-way adult/child/family
5.10/3.10/10.80) or alternatively a switchback
trail take you down to Hallstatt.

The walk finishes at the bottom station of

the Schattberg X-press (%06541-62 71 10; one way
6.90; h9-11.45am & 1-4.15pm mid-JunSep), located
right on the main road in Saalbach. Bus 680
runs every hour from Saalbach to Zell am
See (3.70, 30 minutes); the last bus departs
at 7.15pm.

W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A Pi n z g a u e r S p a z i e r g a n g 103

206 77; Am Salzberg; dishes 4.50-16; h9am-6pm May-Oct).

lonelyplanet.com

reaches a grand climax at Rudolfsturm (%06134-

lonelyplanet.com

102 W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A Pi n z g a u e r S p a z i e r g a n g

s
Schmittenhhe
(1965m)

Sonnberg
(1924m)
Pinz

gaue

az

r Sp

Zell am See

Schmittenhh

ng

ga
ier

Schm
itten
bach
START
ebahn

Kettingtrl

To Bruck (3km);
Piesendorf (5.5km)

north, such as the chiselled Kaisergebirge

range, with the more distinctly alpine, glaciated Hohe Tauern peaks to the south.
Passing two junctions, continue along a fine
balcony trail that begins by contouring around
the base of Oberer-Gernkogel and gently
mounting the slightly lower Niederer-Gernkogel
(2153m), before making its way down the
other side to Klammscharte (1993m). If youre
attempting this walk in early season, there is a
high possibility that you will have to traverse
a few snowdrifts. Youre now at the foot of
Zirmkogel (2215m) which, if you have the
will and expertise, can be climbed in little
more than an hour. The rocky trail cuts a
path through high meadows carpeted with
gold-tinged tussock grass and punctuated by
boggy tarns. The sharp peak of Hochkogel
(2249m) draws ever nearer.
The narrow trail now runs like a vein
through mountains whose mottled greenery
resembles a tortoise shell. Shortly youll reach
a small hut near a cool stream that is a great
spot to take a break. Around four hours from
the start of the trek, the path veers right and
ascends a fairly steep incline to Klingertrl

Zeller
See

saddle (2059m), where a sign next to a stile

indicates the way to Saalbach. Temporarily
leaving behind the mesmerising views of the
Hohe Tauern peaks, traverse the base of cliffs
that sweep down from the summit of the
Hochkogel and descend for a short while to
the wide grassy col of Seetrl (1964m), a nice
place to linger and survey the petrol blue lakes
of Hackelberger Seen.
Walk north from here, either climbing directly over the summit of the Saalbachkogel
(2092m) or contouring around its western
slopes. The same option is repeated for the
slightly higher Stemmerkogel (2123m) where,
looking back, there is a final chance to bid farewell to the frosty pinnacles of the Hohe Tauern
National Park. Head down the ridge of the
mountain and continue towards Schattberg
look right and youll be able to trace the entire days trek, including the starting point at
Schmittenhhe. The trail now skirts around
the base of Schattberg West before making a
final ascent to the top station of the Schattberg
X-press gondola down to Saalbach.
If youd prefer to return to Saalbach on foot,
however, follow the signs at Schattberg-Ost

water fall, open meadows and a little-known Celtic trail.

Expect mostly gentle walking and dramatic views all the way.

Riemann
Kanzel

Unterer Achenfall
Mittlerer Achenfall

Regen Kanzel
Sendtner Kanzel
Jaga Sprung
Schnangerl
Wasserfallweg

Staubige
Reib

Bergblick
Oberer Achenfall

Schettkanzel
Schettbrcke

View to
Humbachkarkopf
(2926m)

Achenta

View to
Westliche Simonyspitze
(3481m)

ler

he

View to
Wildkarspitze
(3073m)

mm

r Ac

From the ticket office (p317), the trail ascends gently through mixed forest of fir,
larch and birch. The raging falls nurture a
special microclimate here take note of ostrich ferns, spongy moss and lichen in myriad
shades of green, which thrive in this damp
atmosphere. Before you actually see the falls,
youll hear their rumble. Soon your attention will be drawn to the lower level of the
falls, the Unterer Achenfall, which plummet
140m through a steep-sided gorge and are
enshrouded in mist. The bronze ibex statue

To Carpark (500m);
Krimml
Village Centre
(700m)

mle

The Walk

START
END
Ticket
Office

1 km
0.5 miles

Kri

Getting to/from the Walk

The walk begins and ends at the ticket office,
approximately 10 minutes stroll from the car
park, which costs 4 per day. For further details on transport to/from Krimml, see p318.
Should you get tired, a taxi will set you back
6.50 per person from the upper falls or 8 per
person from Hlzlahneralm; bookings must
be made by telephone (%06564-83 27).

0
0

Krim

This four-hour walk explores the 380m-high

Krimml Falls (Krimmler Wasserflle) in
all their splendour. The first stretch passes
through lush forest, pausing at viewpoints for
close-up views of the three-tiered falls. The
scenic trail then twists up to the Krimmler
Achental, an alpine valley sliced in two by
the burbling Krimmler Ache and set against a
backdrop of 3000m-high peaks. Looping back,
youll travel on a Celtic trade route, where
sturdy footwear is needed to negotiate a rocky,
root-strewn trail that can become slippery
when wet. The going is generally easy on the
well-marked trail, which makes it a favourite
with families and vista vultures.

KRIMML FALLS LOOP

e Route

Duration Four hours

Distance 15km
Difficulty Easy
Nearest Town Krimml (p317)
Summary This half-day walk takes in Europes highest

W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A G a r n i t z e n k l a m m C i r c u i t 105

c
Tra
d

KRIMML FALLS LOOP

is a superb vantage point for photos, so have

your camera ready.
The Wasserfallweg (Waterfall Path) continues to weave uphill in a series of long loops,
and the well-graded trails make for easy walking. This area is a protected nature reserve and
signs remind walkers that they should stick to
the track. Wandering through shady forest
carpeted in clover and bilberry bushes, youll
glimpse the falls on the approach to the first
proper viewpoint, Riemann Kanzel (1110m),
around 15 minutes from the start. Here youll
be rewarded with awe-inspiring views of the
falls, which thrash against the jagged cliffs
and illuminate the dark green forest with
their brilliance.
The path soon begins to steepen, and tight
switchbacks lead up through woodlands,
affording fleeting glimpses of the village of
Krimml in the valley below. A steady incline
brings you to a number of lookout points
that grant close-up views of the glinting falls,
which are often arched by a rainbow when the
sun shines. These include the Regen Kanzel,
hung in a fine misty spray, and the precipitous
Sendtner Kanzl, where the waterfall seems
close enough to reach out and touch it.
After roughly 30 minutes youll catch
sight of the second tier of the falls, the 100m
Mittlerer Achenfall; while they are not as high as
the lower and upper falls, this detracts nothing from their drama. Between Jaga Sprung
(1220m) and Staubige Reib (1330m), the zigzagging trail becomes steeper at each bend,
contouring around slopes dotted with craggy
boulders that shimmer with minerals. By the
time you reach Schnangerl, you might need
a quick break and this is the perfect spot to
kick back with a drink on the terrace, rest your
legs and soak up the fabulous views.
At Bergerblick (1390m), you begin your
approach to the third tier of the falls, Oberer
Achenfall, which tumble 140m through a vertical wall of granite. The sheer force of the
frothing water is impressive, and the ascent to
the final lookout point, Schettkanzel (1460m),
is also likely to leave you breathless on a hot
summers day. Approximately an hour from
the starting point, you emerge at the top of
the falls at Schettbrcke, where the cool forest
gives way to open pastures and the Krimmler
Ache River runs swiftly over smooth rocks.
Above the falls, the trail flattens and continues to shadow the wild glacial river, making its way through the U-shaped Krimmler

lonelyplanet.com

lti

onto a path (trail No 764) that weaves gently down a ski slope before descending more
steeply through fir and pine forest. This trail
emerges onto the main road to the village
centre; if you choose this option, add one to
1 hours to the days duration.

lonelyplanet.com

Ce

104 W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A K r i m m l Fa l l s L o o p

To Hlzlahneralm
(1km); Krimmler
Tauernhaus (6km);
Krimmler Kees
(15km)

Achental, a highland valley that seems a million miles away from the tourist hordes far
below. In June and July, the meadows here
are ablaze with wildflowers and youll spend
as much time staring at the ground as you do
up ahead; keep an eye out for yellow cowslips,
bell-shaped gentian and swaths of bright pink
alpine roses. Although the track is reasonably
crowd-free, youll probably bump into a few
hikers en route wholl cheerfully bid you Grss
Gott (Good day).
About 15 minutes from the falls, 3000mhigh peaks begin to slide into view, including
the snow-capped Wildkarspitze (3073m) to
the west. But the mountains dominating the
horizon arent the only big rocks here the sea
of dwarf pines edging the left-hand side of the
path is strewn with huge boulders and bizarre
rock formations. Looking right, however, your
attention is drawn to the mooing Pinzgauer
cows that graze the pastures and the fastflowing Krimmler Ache. The feeling of peace
in this valley is sublime and its little wonder
that it has been dubbed a mini Alaska.
Around two hours from the start of
the walk, the fluttering Austrian flag at

Hlzlahneralm (see p317) is like a beacon

for weary walkers. Filled with local characters, this rustic hut is a charming place
for lunch and a deserved rest; tuck into
the homemade Kaspresskndel (cheese fritters) with a glass of creamy buttermilk. Its
worth taking time here to appreciate the
glaciated landscape that unfolds ahead, including the Humbachkarkopf (2926m), the
Westliche Simonyspitze (3481m) and the
Krimmler Kees glacier, whose meltwaters
feed the Krimml Falls. In the early morning
and evening, this is prime terrain for animal
spotters, as it has a healthy population of
marmots, Haflinger horses and chamois.
Retrace your steps along the valley and
back to the falls, following the way you
came until you reach a fork in the path before Schnangerl. Turn right to reach one
of the days highlights, a little-known Celtic
trade route, built in about 2000 BC and restored in 1985. Mind your step on the rocky,
root-strewn path that twists down through
lichen-clad fir trees. This silent area affords
an entirely different perspective of the falls
and deer can often be seen or heard rustling
through the trees. At the bottom, youll
have the final chance to feel the spray of
the waterfall from riverbanks daubed with
golden marsh marigolds. Make your way
across the wooden footbridge and back to
the starting point.

CARINTHIA
GARNITZENKLAMM CIRCUIT

Duration Three hours

Distance 6km
Difficulty Medium
Nearest Town Hermagor (p301)
Summary This hike leads through the first two sections
of Garnitzenklamm (Garnitzen Gorge) past spectacular
waterfalls and pools, returning through mountain forest.

Situated in a province famous for its rugged mountain landscapes, the 6km-long
Garnitzenklamm is considered to be the
prettiest gorge in Carinthia. The trail follows
the course of the Garnitzenbach (Garnitzen
Brook) and is officially open between the
months of June and September. Although this
walk is often possible at other times of year,
the path is even more slippery than usual
very good shoes are needed for this walk at

106 W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A G a r n i t z e n k l a m m C i r c u i t

the best of times and local authorities warn

it is at your own risk. The first two sections
are also suitable for children, but kids should
be carefully supervised and anyone who suffers from vertigo may encounter problems.
Difficult stretches have chains or iron bars to
hold onto. After strong rainfall, it is inadvisable to attempt sections 3 and 4. At the end
of section 2 is a Notunterstand (emergency
shelter). All bridges should be crossed one
person at a time. Admission to the gorge is
2.50/1 per adult/child.

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460 million years. The youngest stone (at

the top of the gorge at an altitude of 1125m)
was formed about 200 million years ago and
the gorge itself is the product of erosion over
about 10,000 years.
Section 1 leads around a weir and artificially
constructed waterfall, as well as rock pools
in which its possible to paddle in the chilly
waters. About 30 minutes into section 1 of
the gorge, the first bridge comes into view.
The gorge has been attracting hikers since the
late 19th century, but maintaining the trail
and crossings is difficult because of flooding.
In 2003 five bridges were swept away and
replacements had to be flown in and lowered
into place by helicopter. This bridge was rebuilt in 2004 (cross it one person at a time);
its worth pausing in the middle for a first view
of the gorge from above the water.
After this crossing, the trail ascends steeply
on rocks and you pass a tree with an odd root
system swelling above the ground. A second
bridge follows, and the final leg of section 1
and the early stages of section 2, which begins
after Idawarte, have some pretty rock formations, spectacular cascades and narrow, bubbling pools flanked with lush vegetation.
From Idawarte the trail crosses another bridge and leads past waterfalls near
Franzenswarte and along the northern side
of the gorge. As the trail ascends, the gorge
narrows and the level of difficulty increases.
Sections of the trail running along the north
side to the next bridge crossing some 500m
upstream can get extremely slippery and re-

Getting to/from the Walk

The trailhead is 2.5km southwest of Hermagor,
above the small settlement of Mderndorf.
From the tourist office in Hermagor take the
B111 southwest (left at the fork) and turn
left again at the AMTC office. From here
continue another 2km through Mderndorf,
and across the railway line and bridge to
the information stand at the start of the
gorge.

The Walk
The walk begins at the lower section of the
gorge at an altitude of 612m, where there is an
information stand and the Klammwirt restaurant, which has outdoor seating summer that
is the perfect spot to gather your strength for
strenuous climb ahead. The early section of
the walk, which ascends the gorge left of the
stream on pebbly ground, is also geologically
the oldest (you will see boards along the way
explaining the geology), dating back about

0
0

GARNITZENKLAMM CIRCUIT

To Mderndorf (1km);
Hermagor (2.5km)

500 m
0.3 miles

Gai
l

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W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A Pu c h b e r g t o S c h n e e b e r g 107

quire care. Parts of the trail have been cut

into the cliffs to provide access and have a
chain you can hold onto, while other parts
run along natural ledges.
Shortly before the end of section 2 of the
gorge, the last bridge of this walk is reached.
This marks the end of the gorge section of
this circuit walk. If you are not walking the
entire gorge, cross the bridge just before the
end of section 2 and follow Steinernder Weg
(trail No 116) for about 1km through some
pretty deciduous forest until it joins trail
No 410 at the cross, where you turn right
towards St Urbani, some 500m from the junction; this small chapel is set picturesquely
in the woods, and has some simple frescoes.
The chapel is also a vantage point for more
good views over the gorge. From St Urbani,
follow the trail through the lush deciduous
forest until it rejoins the forestry road. This
ends at the road from Mderndorf, just
north of the information booth.

the Viennese, who come here to hike its

lush forests and spectacular grassy plateau.
Rising to 2076m, it is also easily reached by
a narrow-gauge cog railway in the summer
months. The first section of this trail follows yellow and green markers alongside
the railway line for approximately 7km
to Baumgarten station (1398m), leaves
the railway line for most of the remaining 3km, and finishes at the mountain
station (Bergstation). From here the 7km
Plateauwanderung (Plateau Hike) begins to
the summit of Schneeberg. The entire hike
should only be attempted between April/
May and October/November, when the ascent is free of snow; sections of the trail can
get a bit slippery in the wet and weather can
be changeable. Check the railway timetable
for departure times if you are completing
one section by rail, and be prepared for all
weather conditions.

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE: SECTIONS 3 & 4 OF

GARNITZENKLAMM

The trailhead is a 10-minute walk north of

the railway station in Puchberg. From the
train station, follow Bahnstrasse southwest
for about 200m until the end, turn right at the
T-junction and follow this road until you arrive at the railway line. The trail begins here.

If you decide to continue along the gorge,

sections 3 and 4 require another 1 hours
in all and involve several steep climbs before you reach the end at Klause at an
altitude of 1125m. Its a spectacular walk at
a higher level of difficulty. If you want to
hike these sections, instead of turning right
and crossing the bridge, continue past the
emergency shelter. About 1km further on,
the trail crosses a forestry track at the end
of section 3, where you have another opportunity to leave the gorge trail; to do this,
follow the forestry road north for about
3km and exit back onto the circuit trail
(trail No 410).

Forestry R d

g
We
116 Steinwender

410
St Urbani

Cross
Bridge
Idawarte

16
484 1

For

Garnitz

Section 2 end
Emergency Shelter
(910m)
Bridge
Section 3 end

Kr

euz

gra

ben

line through changing forest landscapes, while the plateau

section of the hike also offers tremendous views.

Bridge
Waterfall
Klause
(1125m)

Section 4 end

PUCHBERG TO SCHNEEBERG

Duration 7 hours
Distance 17km
Difficulty Easy to medium
Nearest Town Puchberg am Schneeberg (p187)
Summary This scenic hike follows the route of a railway

nb

estr y

Schwarze Wand

Weir
Waterfalls Information
Stand

a ch

Rd

Franzenswarte

LOWER AUSTRIA

START
END

Klammwirt (630m)

Mderndorfer Alm
(1507m)

116, 410, 484 Trail Number

Schneeberg is Lower Austrias highest

mountain and is the most popular among

Getting to/from the Walk

The Walk
From the trailhead, take the path running
along the left-hand side of the railway line.
After a few hundred metres it crosses the
track (watch out for trains!) and follows the
course of the line on the right-hand side for
most of the hike to Baumgarten station. You
will find the trail sublime and picturesque
in these early stages, consisting mostly of a
forestry track that clings to the side of the
Niederer Hengst range. The vegetation in this
section is predominantly mixed evergreen and
deciduous forest of spruce, beech and some
oak. As you climb and wind through the forest you notice views starting to open up into
the Hengsttal (Stallion Valley) on the east.
After about one hour and a climb of 435m you
reach Hengsthtte (%02636-21 03; www.hengsthuette
.at; Hochschneeberg 1; beds 25; hTue-Sun May-Oct, Sat &
Sun Nov-Apr), where there are spectacular views

into the valley and mountains.

The vegetation shows signs of the higher
altitude here, with larch and pine trees becoming more frequent. The trail continues along
the right of the railway line for another 30

108 W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A Pu c h b e r g t o S c h n e e b e r g

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0
0

PUCHBERG TO SCHNEEBERG

1 km
0.5 miles

astian
S eb

Puchberg am
Schneeberg

Puchberg am
Schneeberg
Schneebergdrf

START
END

Hintern Hengst

es

Kleiner
Sattel
(828m)

al

zr

ie

g
el

ra

be

re

de
N

SCHNEEBERG

Grosser
Sattel
(1314m)
Madlerriegel

ss

Berghaus
Waxriegel
(1888m) Hochschneeberg
Bergstation
Kaiserin Elisabeth
Gedchtniskirche

Hoher
Hengst
(1450m)

Baumgarten

la

Hauslitzsattel

ie

be

run
g

ad

es

m
ru
K

Klosterwappen
(Schneeberg Plat
eau
Summit)
wa
nde
(2076m)

gr

er

e
d
ra
ab
rg rgr
e
d
a
em ei
sg
ov hn
am
N Sc
G
Dambckhaus
i
rt

Buchberg
(852m)

ie

en

Kaiserstein
Fischerhtte

gs

Gr

Ri

ite

bach
Rohr

e
Baumgartenhtte

Hengsthtte
Sattelberg

Hengsthtte

Temitzerhtte

Krummbachsalter

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About 15 minutes from Dambckhaus the

path forks and you follow the trail (marked
yellow) to the left to the peak. Not surprisingly, this section is the steepest climb on
the trail, rising 225m over 1.5km. About 45
minutes after leaving the fork, you reach the
summit. Enjoy the splendid panorama if the
weather is good and gather your strength.
The Plateauwandering has one final section, which takes you along the ridge north for
15 minutes towards Fischerhtte (%02636-2313;
Hochschneeberg 9; mattresses/beds 10/16; hApr-Oct),
on the cusp of the plateau. Near the hut is
the Kaiserstein, commemorating royal hikes
by Kaiser Franz I in 1805 and 1807. From
Fischerhtte, complete the circuit on the
plateau by taking the direct trail (green) for
40 minutes back past Dambckhaus, and
from there walk another 20 minutes to the
Bergstation. You can now return to Puchberg
by train or, if you would like to stay overnight
on the mountain in a pension, the comfortable Berghaus Hochschneeberg (%02636-2257;
[email protected]; Hochschneeberg 7;
s/d 24/48) is situated conveniently close to

the Bergstation.

SPITZSCHWALLENBACH CIRCUIT
or 40 minutes before crossing the track and
leading to the caf at Baumgarten station,
Baumgartenhtte (%02636-2107; Hochschneeberg
5; light mains 6-8; hdaily when train runs). With an
evocative game-hunting interior, its a good
spot for a first rest. Few places in the world
look like this, and it fills with forestry workers (and train passengers), who step inside
to indulge in Baumgartens famous Buchtl, a
sweet leavened pastry.
With a Buchtl in your belly, follow the yellow trail along the stone embankment of the
railway line before crossing the track. From
now on you need to keep to the trail marked
yellow. A red trail leading to Herminensteig
goes off to the right just after the railway
crossing; do not take this.
The yellow trail sticks closely to the line
for about 200m, then leaves it and ascends
through forest that was burned out in bushfires in the 1980s. Gradually you leave the
tree line altogether, and the path becomes
steep, rocky and uneven. If you are not an
experienced hiker, you might find this section
difficult in the wet. There are no steep drops,
however, and the trail is well marked.

This section is also one of the most panoramic, with magnificent views to Hoher
Hengst (1450m) and the valley around
Puchberg in the northeast. Finally, about
one hour after leaving Baumgarten and
about three hours into the walk, you arrive
at the stone Kaiserin Elisabeth Gedchtniskirche,
built in honour of Empress Elisabeth and
consecrated in 1901. Across from this is the
Bergstation. The first section of the walk
ends here.
The Plateauwanderung, marked in green
and later yellow, starts from the station
(1795m) and climbs gently along the side of
Waxriegel mountain. A few minutes into the
walk you have a wonderful view of what lies
ahead: the Klosterwappen (Schneeberg summit), whose summit is marked with a cross,
and the Fischerhtte perched delicately in
the distance. After 20 minutes you reach
Dambckhaus (% 02636-2259; www.damboeckhaus
.at; Hochschneeberg 8; mattresses/beds 17/23; hMayOct), situated at an altitude on 1810m. This

is a good place to nip in for sustenance and

the hosts speciality game goulash before
you tackle the summit; dishes cost 7 to 9.

Duration 4 hours
Distance 11km (round circuit back to Spitz)
Difficulty Easy to medium
Nearest Town Spitz (p172)
Summary This is an easy hike in the Danube Valley

through vineyards and forest to hilltop castle ruins. It

continues through a nature park and returns via the
Danube Cycle Path.

The Wachau region in the Danube Valley is

one of the most spectacular river landscapes
in Europe. Lush forests and picturesque
vineyards cling to high valley walls and
crags, while rustic Heurigen (wine taverns;
ask at the tourist office in Spitz which ones
are open) offer the chance to sample local
wines direct from the cellar door. Although
most towns in the Wachau have hiking
trails, this circuit offers the advantage of
hiking in almost any weather conditions,
and brings together the best qualities of the
Wachau: pretty vineyards, deciduous forest,
great views of the Danube and a historic
castle ruin. Even young children will find
the section to the foot of the castle manageable. The climb to the castle and the trail
through the nature park to Schwallenbach

are more difficult; here leaves on the path

can make it slippery in the wet. Dont stray
too far off this path as cliffs are located beyond the trees.
For more details on this walk, pick up the
1:35000 Naturerlebnis Wachau Wandern &
Radfahren map (1) from the tourist office
(see p172).

Getting to/from the Walk

The trailhead is on the northern outskirts
of Spitz at Rotes Tor, a medieval city gate.
From Marktplatz in the centre of Spitz, follow
Rote-Tor-Gasse to the right, then go right
again at the school gate. Signs point the way.

The Walk
Even as you approach the trailhead from
Marktplatz, you pass through small vineyards
and an orchard. The Wachau region is famous
for its Marillen (apricots), which are worked
into jams, liqueurs and heady schnapps. Once
you arrive at the trailhead you will also see
why Rotes Tor is considered one of the best
spots to take in the view.
Follow the path through the stone portal
and into the forest. Its important to keep left
at the first fork and follow the blue trail (trail
No 10) leading towards Huthof. The path
takes you through forest of birch, pine and
occasional oak trees; after about 600m a new
view over the valley opens up, and you reach
a bench and small cross.
From here the trail changes direction significantly for the first time by leaving the blue
trail and making a switchback southwest up
the hill. As the path straightens out, some
wooden boxes appear in the forest. These are
used for feeding game, and after a while you
come across a Hochsitz (hunting stool) used
by the local forest hunters to wait for their unsuspecting game. More importantly, though,
watch out for snakes in this section of forest as
they tend to loiter around the woodpiles.
After a fairly moderate climb for another
600m you reach the crest of a ridge that extends up to the 700m-high Buchberg to the
north; between the trees there are lovely views
of the serpentine Danube (Donau).
The trail follows the swath cut into the
lower reaches of Buchberg and gradually descends again, offering spectacular views over
to the terraced Michaeler Berg in the east. At the
next fork keep to the right, going in the direction of Erholungswald Jagdriedl; just after this

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110 W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A S p i t z S c h w a l l e n b a c h C i r c u i t

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TREKKING WITH LLAMAS

One of the more interesting hikes with llamas in Lower Austria is along a section of the Jakobsweg
(Jacobs Path). A two-day trek along this pilgrims trail begins in Stift Gttweig (near Krems An Der
Donau; p167) and goes via the monastery Maria Langegg where you stay overnight to Melk.
This two-day trek involves about six hours walking each day along pretty forest trails and costs a
very reasonable 65 in a group of 15 people. Donau Niedersterreich Tourismus (%02713-300
60 60; www.donau.com) handles bookings and can tell you more about the hike.

another view opens up, this time over the

rooftops of Spitz to the Danube.
From here keep following the trail marked
yellow, which leads down towards Radlbach,
once a separate town but today a part of Spitz.
As the trail heads in a more northerly direction, views shift from the Danube and Spitz
to the side valley, the Spitzer Graben (Spitz
Basin); from a bluff you get an interesting
view of this river valley closed off on three
sides by densely wooded mountains. This is
a good place to unpack a lunch, and a bottle
of local wine or juice.
Continue along the yellow trail (trail No 5)
into the gully and across Radlbach (Radl
Brook) then stay on the forestry track (yellow; trail No 6) alongside the brook all the
way into Radlbach settlement, where there
are more vineyards and Heurigen. As you walk
around Rauch Emma (one of the vineyards),
Burgruine Hinterhaus (Castle Ruin Hinterhaus)
appears in the distance on the bluff.
From Radlbach, go left along the main
road and right across the bridge. At the road
marked Auf der Wehr, go left again. A sign
warns that the climb ahead is steep and its
serious. The degree of difficulty increases in
this section, and for good reason: the approach
to the fortress, which was first mentioned in
official documents in 1243, was planned in

such a way that attackers stormed it with the

right side of the body exposed to the castle
defenders. This is typically the side of the body
unprotected by a shield in battle. Despite this
crafty piece of fortress building and landscape
design, the castle gradually fell into disuse
from the 1460s. To get to the castle, follow
the signs along Weitwanderweg 05.
Views from the castle are superb, and this is
a good place to rest up before tackling the second section of the walk. This section takes you
through the lush Jauerling Naturpark (Jauerling
Nature Park) towards Schwallenbach, a small
town about 3km from the castle. To walk it,
backtrack from the castle and take trail No
6/605 (marked in red) up into the forest. Its
another steep climb and will require good
shoes in the wet. Walk along the trail through
the forest for about 500m, following red-andyellow markers (trail No 7) until you see the
fence; the trail divides here. Take the yellow
trail (trail No 7), which winds along the top of
Teufelsmauer (Devils Wall) through dense forest, with occasional glimpses over the Danube
Valley. After walking for about an hour, you
descend gradually through vineyards towards
Schwallenbach, from where you have the
choice of taking a train or bus back to Spitz or
completing the circuit by following the bicycle
path alongside the Danube to Spitz.

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