Shed Framing

Framing is one of the most satisfying phases of a building project.

Using basic tools and materials, you'll the skeleton of the structure,
piece-by-piece, and in the process learn the fundamentals of
carpentry. The style of framing shown here is standard 2 4
framing, also called stick framing.

The tools you'll use for most framing are the circular saw (and
power miter saw, if you have one), framing square, level, chalk line,
and, of course, a framing hammer. Nails used for most framing are
called common nails. These have a larger diameter than box nails,
making them stronger, but also more likely to split thinner stock.
Box nails are better for siding, trim, and other non-structural
materials. The three most commonly used nailing techniques are
shown in the illustration. Some framing connections, such as where
rafters meet wall plates, require metal anchors for increased
strength.

Floor Framing

Floor frames for sheds are simple versions of house floor frames.
They have outside, or rim, joists that are set on edge and nailed to
the ends of the common joists. Gazebos have floor frames similar to
decks, with angled joists that are connected to support beams with
joist hangers. On top of floor frames, a layer of tongue-and-groove
plywood (or decking boards, for a gazebo) provides the floor surface
and adds strength to the frame. To prevent rot, always use
pressure-treated lumber and galvanized nails and hardware for floor
frames.

TOOLS & MATERIALS

Circular saw
8d and 16d galv. common nails
square
3/4" tongue-and-groove exterior-grade plywood
pressure-treated 2 lumber



HOW TO BUILD A SHED FLOOR FRAME

Step A: Cut the Joists & Mark the Layout

1. Cut the two rim joists and the common joists to length, making
sure both ends are square. Note that rim joists run the full length of
the floor, while common joists are 3" shorter than the floor width.

2. Check the rim joists for crowningarching along the narrow
edges. Pick up one end of the board and hold it flat. With one eye
closed, sight down the narrow edges. If the board arches, even
slightly, mark the edge on the top (convex) side of the arch. This is
the crowned edge and should always be installed facing up. If the
board is crowned in both directions, mark the edge with the most
significant crowning.

3. Lay one rim joist flat on top of the other so the edges and ends
are flush and the crowned edges are on the same side. Tack the
joists together with a few 8d nails. Turn the joists on-edge and
mark the common joist layout on the top edges: Mark 1 1/2"" and
15 1/4" from the end of one joist. Then, measuring from the 15
1/4" mark, make a mark every 16"at 32", 48", 64" and so on, to
the end of the board (if the plan calls for 24" spacing, make a mark
at 1 1/2" and 23 1/4", then every 24" from there). Don't worry if
the last space before the opposite end joist isn't as wide as the
others. Make a mark 1 1/2" in from the remaining end. After each
mark, draw a small designating to which side of the line the joist
goesthis is a handy framers' trick to prevent confusion. This
layout ensures that the edges of a 4-ft. or 8-ft. board or sheet will
fall, or break, on the center of a joist.

4. Using a square, draw lines through each of the layout marks,
carrying them over to the other rim joist. Draw Xs on the other
joist, as well. Separate the joists and remove the nails.



Step B: Assemble & Square the Frame

1. Check the two end joists for crowning, then nail them between
the rim joists so their outside faces are flush with the rim joist ends
and the top edges are flush. Drive two 16d galvanized common
nails through the rim joists and into the ends of the end joists,
positioning the nails about 3/4" from the top and bottom edges.

2. Install the remaining joists, making sure the crowned edges are
facing up.

3. Check the frame for squareness by measuring diagonally from
corner to corner: when the measurements are equal, the frame is
square. To adjust the frame, apply inward pressure to the corners
with the longer measurement.

4. If you're building the floor over skids, secure each joist to the
outside skids with a metal anchor and toenail the joists to the
internal skid(s) with 16d galvanized nails.



Step C: Install the Plywood Floor

1. Lay a full sheet of 3/4" tongue-and-groove exterior-plywood over
the frame so the groove side is flush with a rim joist and one end is
flush with an end joist. Fasten the plywood to the joists with 8d
galvanized nails driven every 6" along the edges and every 8" in the
field of the sheet. Do not nail along the tongue edge until the next
row of plywood is in place.

2. Cut the second piece to fit next to the first, allowing for a 1/8"
gap between the sheets. Install the second sheet with its outside
edges flush with the frame.

3. Start the next row with a full sheet (ripped to width, if
necessary). Install the sheet starting from the corner opposite the
first sheet, so the joints between rows are offset. Make sure the
tongue-and-groove joint is tight; if necessary, use a wood block and
a sledgehammer to close the joint.

4. Cut and install the remaining piece of plywood.




Mark the joist layout onto the header or beam and use a square to
draw parallel lines that represent the outer edges of the joist.
Position the hanger with one side flush to a joist outline, and fasten
it with joist hanger nails (1 1/2") or 10d or 16d galvanized common
nails.




Using a scrap piece of joist as a spacer, close the hanger around the
spacer. Check the position of the spacer's top edge, then nail the
free side of the hanger in place.



To install the joist, set it completely into the hanger and fasten it
through the hanger holes with joist nails.

Wall Framing

Standard framed walls have vertical 2 4 studs nailed between
horizontal top and bottom plates. The top plates are doubled to
provide additional support for the roof frame and to strengthen the
wall connections. Door and window frames are made up of king
studs; a header, which supports cripple studs above the opening;
and jack studs, which support the header. A window frame also has
a rough sill and cripple studs below the opening. The opening
defined by the frame is called the rough opening. Wall frames gain
rigidity from plywood sheathing or siding.

Building walls involves three major phases: laying out and framing
the walls; raising the walls; and tying the walls together and adding
the double top plates. Note: If your building has a concrete slab
floor, use pressure-treated lumber for the bottom plates and anchor
the plates to the J-bolts set in the slab.


TOOLS & MATERIALS
Broom
2 lumber
Circular saw or power miter saw
8d, 10d, and 16d common nails
Square
1/2" plywood
4-ft. level
Construction adhesive
Handsaw




HOW TO FRAME WALLS

Step A: Mark the Bottom-plate Layout Lines

1. Sweep off the floor and make sure it's dry. Cut a short (about 4"
to 6") piece of plate material to use as a spacer. Position the spacer
at one corner of the floor, with its outside edge flush with the
outside of the floor frame. Mark a pencil line along the inside edge
of the spacer.

2. Use the spacer to mark the wall ends at each corner of the floor
(eight marks total). Snap chalk lines through the marks. These lines
represent the inside edges of the bottom plates.



Step B: Lay Out the Plates

1. Measure along the plate layout lines to find the lengths of the
plates. Note: Follow your project plans to determine which walls ran
to the edges of the building (called through walls) and which butt
into the other walls (called butt walls).

2. Select straight lumber for the plates. Cut a top and bottom plate
for the first wall, making sure their dimensions are the same. Use a
circular saw or a power miter saw, but make sure both ends are
square. Lay the bottom plate flat on the floor and set the top plate
on top of it. Make sure their edges and ends are flush, then tack the
plates together with a few 8d nails.

3. Turn the plates on-edge and mark the stud layout onto the front
edges. If the wall is a through wall, make a mark at 1 1/2" and 2 3/4"
to mark the end stud and extra corner stud. Then, mark at 15 1/4"
(for 16" on-center spacing) or 23 1/4" (for 24" on-center spacing)
measuring from this mark, make a mark every 16" (or 24") to the
end of the plates. Make a mark 1 1/2" in from the opposite end.
Following your plan, draw an next to each mark, designating to
which side of the line the stud goes.

Mark the king and jack studs with a K and J respectively, and mark
the cripple studs with a C.

If the wall is a butt wall, mark the plate at 1 1/2", then move the
tape so the 3 1/2" tape mark is aligned with the end of the plate.
Keeping the tape at that position, mark at 15 1/4" (for 16" spacing)
or 23 1/4" (for 24" spacing) then mark every 16" (or 24") from
there. The 3 1/2" that are "buried" account for the width of the
through wall.

4. Using a square, draw lines through each of the layout marks,
carrying them over to the other plate. Draw Xs on the other plate,
as well.



Step C: Cut the Studs Build the Headers

1. Cut the studs to length, following the framing plan; make sure
both ends are square. (Before cutting, give each stud a quick
inspection to check for excessive bowing or crowning; reserve any
bad studs for scrap or blocking.)

2. Select straight lumber for the door-frame studs. Cut the jack
studs to equal the height of the rough opening minus 1 1/2" (this
accounts for the thickness of the bottom plate); cut the jack studs
for the window frame to equal the height of the top of the rough
opening minus 1 1/2'. Cut the king studs the same length as the
common studs.

3. To build the headers, cut two pieces of 2 lumber (using the
size prescribed by the plans) to equal the width of the rough
opening plus 3". Check the boards for crowning, and mark the top
edges. Cut a piece of 1/2" plywood to the same dimensions as the
lumber pieces.

4. Apply two wavy beads of construction adhesive to each side of
the plywood and sandwich the lumber pieces around the plywood,
keeping all edges flush. Nail the header together with pairs of 16d
common nails spaced about 12" apart. Drive the nails at a slight
angle so they won't protrude from the other side. Nail from both
sides of the header.


When building walls over a concrete slab, drill holes in the bottom
plates for the anchor bolts before marking the stud layouts. Position
each plate on its layout line with the ends flush with the edges of
the slab. Use a square to mark the edges of the bolt onto the plate.



Measure from the layout line to the bolt center and transfer that
dimension to the plate. Drill holes through the plates slightly larger
in diameter than the bolts. After raising the walls, anchor the plates
to the bolts with washers and nuts.



Step D: Assemble the Wall

1. Separate the marked plates and remove the nails. Position the
plates on-edge, about 8 ft. apart, with the marked edges facing up.

2. Set the studs on-edge between the plates, following the layout
marks. Before setting the door- or window-frame studs, facenail the
jack studs to the inside faces of the king studs with 10d common
nails staggered and spaced every 12"; make sure the bottom ends
and side edges are flush.

3. Nail all of the studs to the bottom plate, then to the top plate.
Position each stud on its layout mark so its front edge is flush with
the plate edge, and nail through the plate and into the stud end
with two 16d common nails (use galvanized nails on the bottom
plate if your floor is concrete). Drive the nails about 3/4" in from
the plate edges.

4. Set the header in place above the jack studs and nail through the
king studs and into the header ends with 16d nailsuse four nails
on each end for a 2 6 header, and six for a 2 8 header.

For a window frame, measure up from the bottom of the bottom
plate and mark the top of the sill on the inside faces of the jack
studsthis defines the bottom of the rough opening. Cut two sill
pieces to fit between the jack studs and nail them together with 10d
nails. Toenail the sill to the jack studs with 16d nails.

5. Cut the cripple studs to fit between the header and the top plate
(and the sill and bottom plate, for window frames). Toenail the
cripple studs to the plates and headers (and sill) with two 8d nails
on one side and one more through the center on the other side.



Step E: Square the Wall Frame

1. Check the wall frame for squareness by measuring diagonally
from corner to corner: when the measurements are equal, the
frame is square. To adjust the frame, apply inward pressure to the
corners with the longer measurement.

2. When the frame is perfectly square, install a temporary 1 4 or
2 4 brace diagonally across the studs and plates. Nail the brace to
the frame with 8d nails. Use two nails on the plates and on every
other stud. To stabilize the structure, leave the wall braces in place
until the walls are sheathed or sided.

3. At each end of the wall, attach a board to brace the wall upright
after it is raised; nail it to the end stud with one 16d nail. Note:
Install only one end brace for the second and third walls; no end
brace is needed for the final wall.



Step F: Raise the Wall

1. With a helper, lift the top end of the wall and set the bottom
plate on the layout lines you snapped in Step A. Swing out the free
ends of the end braces and tack them to the floor frame to keep the
wall upright. If you have a slab floor, nail the braces to stakes in the
ground.

2. Fine-tune the wall position so the bottom plate is flush with the
chalk line, then nail the plate to the floor with 16d nails. Drive a nail
every 16" and stagger them so that half go into the rim joist and
half go into the common joists. Do not nail the plate inside the door
opening.

3. Pull the nails at the bottom ends of the end braces, and adjust
the wall until it is perfectly plumb, using a 4-ft. level; set the level
against a few different studs to get an accurate reading. Reattach
the end braces with 16d nails.





Step G: Complete the Wall Frames Install the Double Top
Plates

1. Build and raise the remaining walls, following the same
procedure used for the first wall. After each wall is plumbed and
braced in position, nail together the end studs of the adjacent walls
with 16d nails, driven every 12". Make sure the wall ends are flush.

2. Cut the double top plates from 2 4 lumber. The double top
plates must overlap the top plate joints, so that on through walls,
the double plate is 3 1/2" shorter on each end than the top plate;
on butt walls, the double plate is 3 1/2" longer on each end. Nail
the double top plates to the top plates with 10d nails. Drive two
nails at the ends of the plates that overlap intersecting walls, and
one nail every 16" in between.

3. Use a handsaw or reciprocating saw to cut out the bottom plate
in the door opening.


Roof Framing



A roof frame is an important structure not only because it supports
the roofing and helps keep the building dry, but because its style
and shape have a great impact on the character of the building, the
feel of the interior space, and the amount of storage space
available.

There are four common roof types shown in this book. A gable roof
is the classic, triangular design, with two sloped sides meeting at
the peak, and flat ends (called gable ends). Gambrel roofs are like
gable roofs with an extra joint on each side, resulting in two
different slopes. A hip roof is structurally similar to a gable, but has
no gable ends. Shed roofs are the simplest style, with only one
sloped plane. They can be built with frames or, for small structures,
a sheet of plywood.

All of these roof styles have a designated slope, which is the degree
of angle of each side. The slope is expressed in a ratio that states
the number of inches of vertical rise per 12" of horizontal run. For
example, a roof that rises 6" for every 12" of run is said to have a
slope of 6-in-12. Roof slope is indicated in plan drawings by a
triangular symbol known as the roof-slope indicator. You'll use the
roof slope to lay out rafters and fascia.

In standard roof framing, rafters are the principal structural
members, rising from the walls to theridge board (or hub, in
gazebos) at the peak of the roof. Rafters in outbuildings typically
are made from 2 4s or 2 6s, are spaced 16" or 24" on center,
and are installed perpendicular to the length of the building. To
keep the roof planes from spreading apart, rafter ties, or collar ties,
are nailed between opposing rafters to form a structural triangle.
With shed-style roofs, the rafters span from wall-to-wall and no
ridge board or ties are needed.

The key to successful roof sheathing framing is making accurate
cuts on the rafters. Take your time to cut the first two rafters,
making any necessary adjustments, then use one as a pattern for
marking the rest. The following project shows you how to cut and
install rafters in a gable roof frame, but the basic procedures are
the same for gambrel and hip roofs.

As an alternative to rafter framing, you can take your plans to a
truss manufacturer and have custom trusses built for your project.
However, this will cost you more and probably will limit your
storage space: the internal supports in truss frames leave little
room for storage.







TOOLS & MATERIALS

Circular saw
2 lumber
framing square
8d, 10d, and 16d common nails
4-ft. level



A speed square is a handy tool for marking angled cutsusing the
degree of the cut or the roof slope. Set the square flange against
the board edge and align the PIVOT point with the top of the cut.
Pivot the square until the board edge is aligned with the desired
DEGREE marking or the rise of the roof slope, indicated in the row
of COMMON numbers. Mark along the right-angle edge of the
square.



HOW TO BUILD A ROOF FRAME

Note: The following instructions are based on the sample rafter
template shown here, which is designed for a 6-in-12 roof slope.

Step A: Mark the Plumb Cuts

1. Select a straight board to use for the pattern rafter. Mark the top
plumb cut near one end of the board: Position a framing square
with the 6" mark of the tongue (short part) and the 12" mark of the
blade (wide part) on the top edge of the board. Draw a pencil line
along the outside edge of the tongue.

2. Starting from the top of the plumb-cut mark, measure along the
top edge of the board and mark the overall length of the rafter,
then use the square to transfer this mark to the bottom edge of the
board. Position the square so the tongue points down, and align the
6" mark of the tongue and the 12" mark of the blade with the
bottom board edge, while aligning the tongue with the overall
length mark. Draw a line along the tongue. If the bottom end cut of
the rafter is square (perpendicular to the edges) rather than parallel
to the top end, mark a square cut at the overall length mark.



Step B: Mark the Bird's Mouth Cuts

1. Measure from the bottom of the lower plumb cut and mark the
plumb cut of the bird's mouth. Position the square as you did for the
lower plumb cut and draw a line across the board face at the new
mark.

2. Measure along the bird's mouth plumb cut and mark the bird's
mouth level cut. Use the square to draw the level cutit must be
perpendicular to the bird's mouth plumb cut.



Step C: Make the Cuts


1. Cut the rafter ends at the plumb-cut lines, using a circular saw or
power miter saw.

2. Set the base of a circular saw to cut at the maximum depth.
Make the bird's mouth cuts, overcutting slightly to complete the cut
through the thickness of the board. As an alternative to overcutting
(for aesthetic reasons), you can stop the circular saw at the line
intersections, then finish the cuts with a handsaw.

3. Select another straight board to use as a second pattern rafter.
Use the original pattern rafter to trace the cutting lines onto the
duplicate, then make the cuts.







Step D: Test-fit the Rafters

1. Cut a 12"-long spacer block from 2 6 or 2 8 material.

2. With a helper or two, set the two rafters in place on top of the
walls, holding the spacer block between the top rafter ends. Make
sure the rafters are in line with each other (perpendicular to the
walls) and are plumb.

3. Check the cuts for fit: the top-end plumb cuts should meet flush
with the spacer block, and the bird's mouths should sit flush against
the wall plates. Make sure the top ends are at the same elevation.
Recut any angles that don't fit and test-fit the rafters again.

4. Write "PAT" on the pattern rafter, then use it to trace the cutting
lines onto the remaining rafters. Before marking, check each rafter
for crowning and mark the crowned edge; always install the
crowned edge up. If your building has overhangs at the gable ends,
mark the end cuts for the overhang rafters but not the bird's mouth
cuts-overhang rafters don't have them. Also, if you have the fascia
material on-hand, use the pattern rafter to mark the angle for the
top ends of the fascia boards.

5. Cut the remaining rafters.




Step E: Lay Out the Wall Plates & Ridge Board

Note: Start the rafter layouts from the ends of the walls where you
started the wall stud layouts. This ensures the rafters will fall above
the studs. Install rafters aligned with the end studs but not the
extra corner studs.

1. Make a mark on the top wall plate 1 1/2" in from the end. Then,
mark at 15 1/4" (for 16" on-center spacing) or 23 1/4" (for 24"
oncenter
spacing)measuring from this mark, make a mark every 16"
(or 24") to the end of the wall. Make a mark 1 1/2" in from the
remaining end. Following your plan, draw an next to each mark,
designating to which side of the line the rafter goes.

2. Mark the wall on the other side of the building, starting from the
same end.

3. Cut the ridge board to length, using the plan dimensions. Check
the board for crowning, then lay it on top of the walls next to one of
the marked plates, making sure it overhangs the end walls equally
at both ends. Use a square to transfer the rafter layout onto both
faces of the ridge board.



Step F: Install the Rafters

1. You'll need a couple of helpers and a long, straight 2 4 to get
the rafters started. Lay the first two rafters on top of the wall, then
nail the 2 4 to the far end of the ridge board to serve as a
temporary support. Set up the rafters at the end of the walls and
hold the free end of the ridge board in place between them. Have a
helper tack the rafters to the wall plates. Hold a level on the ridge
board and make sure it's level, then have a helper tack the support
to the far wall to keep the ridge level.

2. Slide one rafter a few inches to the side and endnail the other
rafter through the ridge board with three 16d common nails (use
two nails for 2 4 rafters). Slide the other rafter onto its layout
mark and toenail it to the ridge with four 16d nails (three for 2
4s). Toenail the lower end of each rafter to the wall plate with two
16d nails, then reinforce the joint with a metal anchor, using the
nails specified by the manufacturer.

3. Make sure the rafters are plumb and the ridge is level. Install the
remaining rafters, checking for plumb and level periodically as you
work.


Step
G:

Install the Collar Ties

1. Cut the collar ties (or rafter ties) to span between opposing
rafters at the prescribed elevation, angle-cutting the ends to match
the roof slope.

2. Position the collar tie ends against the rafter faces so the ends
are about 1/2" from the rafters edges. Make sure the ties are level,
then facenail them to the rafters with three 10d common nails at
each end.



Step H: Frame the Gable Wall

Note: Gable walls consist of top plates that attach to the undersides
of the end rafters, and short studs set on top of the wall plates.
They appear only on gable and gambrel roofs.

1. Cut the top plates to extend from the side of the ridge board to
the wall plates. Angle-cut the ends so they meet flush with the ridge
and wall plate. The top-end angle matches the rafter plumb cut; the
bottom angle matches the level cut of the bird's mouth.

2. Fasten the plates to the rafters so the front plate edges are flush
with the outside faces of the rafters; use 16d nails.

3. Mark the gable stud layout onto the wall plate, then use a level
to transfer the layout to the gable plates. Cut the gable studs to fit,
angle-cutting the ends to match the roof slope. Install the gable
studs with 8d toenails. Also install a square-cut stud directly under
the ridge board.



Step I: Build the Gable Overhang (Gable Gambrel Roofs)

Note: Gable overhangs are built with additional rafters installed at
the gable ends. They are supported by the ridge board and blocks
called lookoutsattached to the end rafters.

1. Mark the layouts for the lookouts onto the end rafters, following
the project plan. Cut the lookouts and toenail them to the rafters
with 8d nails (or endnail them with 16d nails) so that the top edges
of the blocks are flush with, and parallel to, the tops of the rafters.

2. Install the overhang rafters over the ends of the lookouts with
16d endnails.