There are times when the only way to save a chick is to give Mother Nature a helping hand and

assist with the hatching process. Assuming that all will go well and that the chick will successfully hatch is not realistic in all situations. Knowing when to assist and taking appropriate action in a timely manner is sometimes the only recourse to save a chick. Note: throughout the article I will have underlined links to photo's for viewing. Many of these illustrations will contain additional detailed information that is not included in this article. I also have included an album at the bottom of the page that has all the illustrations used in this article. Clicking on the thumbnail photo will bring up a larger view. With cockatiels the most common situation that requires assistance is when a chick is trapped in the shell due to low humidity. Other causes include the parents attempting to help the chick out of the egg too early, opening an egg too soon, or dropping or opening an egg too soon during the early piping stage. Less common causes are excessive humidity which can cause a chick to swell, and smother in the egg. or malpositioned chicks such as: the right wing down below the head, left wing up, the head facing downwards, or trying to hatch at the wrong end of the egg.

The most common causes for the need to assist are low humidity. For instance I live in South Florida, and during the months of Dec-Mar., our weather is dry with no rain, which contributes to the low humidity levels in the environment. It is during these months that the chances of DIS (dead in shell) are higher because a chick will get trapped in the shell because the egg has lost moisture and the membrane adheres to it, which prevents it from successfully hatching. Placing additional water bowls for the parent birds to wet their feathers to add moisture to the nestbox helps. I have also learned that weather also affects hatches. Temperature flucuations in a 23 hour period while a chick is pipping can disorientate in the egg. Over the years I have perfected my method for assisting hatches, and assisted hatch losses have been cut to five percent or less. First, Ill cover the easiest way to assist a hatch, and then a unique emergency procedure to get the yolk sac to draw into the body when the assisted hatch is attempted too early, or a new hatch is found in the nest with part of the yolk sac still outside the body. Things to have on hand
The tools you will need are simple and basic: A

candler for viewing the egg, a dark room, a fine-tip permanent marker (Sharpie), heating pad, a small cup or container on heat for monitoring an egg, and a thermometer or a unit that reads temperature and humidity. Once you start assisting the hatching process, you will also need Qtips, a small syringe or dropper, distilled water or boiled clean water, and Pedialyte if the chick looks dehydrated. Another thing you definitely will need is patience. Trying to

rush things is the leading cause of accidents and deaths. On assist hatches where the blood and yolk are still not absorbed it can take up to 24 hours of carefully monitoring the baby until it is fully ready to emerge from the shell. Observation of the air cell Probably the most important thing to know is the size of the air cell of the egg of the species you will be working with. After the 2nd week of incubation of fertilized eggs, candle a clutch of eggs to see the approximate average size of the air cell per clutch. The air cell is located in the upper quarter of the roundest part of the egg. When candling this area will be totally clear. This knowledge will be a good visual guide for you to use when any unusual changes are noticed in the size of the air cell as the egg nears hatching or starts to pip. With low humidity, that air cell will get larger in size. With excessive humidity the air cell will decrease in size. Note: when an egg is first layed the air cell may very small, but as the baby develops it increases in size. By observing air cells, you will discover that the majority of DIS (dead in shell) egg problems occur in the low humidity category, which causes the baby to get trapped in the egg (adhered to the membrane) and unable to get out of the egg. With very low humidity the egg loses moisture and the air cell is very large. Candling Candling is one of the best means of observing an egg prior to opening the shell. When candling I am specifically looking at where the air cell and solid mass meet. When candling the egg prior to pip, the solid mass where the chick is located in the egg will appear to be an even line around the egg, and have a dull red-orange look, with visible veining right up to the edge.

NEVER attempt to assist at this stage! When the baby pips (or breaks into the air cell) you will be able to see that a portion of the solid mass is lower. This is where the chicks beak and head is located. Note: If the chick is DIS (dead in shell) the color when candled is going to have a yellow cast. You also will be candling, specifically looking at the place on the egg where the air cell and solid mass meet. If you see prominent red veins, the chick has not drawn in the blood, and it is too soon to assist. When most of the blood is drawn in this area will look orange-red in color, with very faint lines from the collapsed veining. You will know that a chick is definitely trapped when you can see that the veins have collapsed but the chick has not progressed more than 1/4 of the distance around the egg from where that first black dot was placed in a 24-hour period. Pipping
Draw down occurs during the last 2-3 days prior to hatching. Prior to draw down the air cell is symmetrical around the circumference of the egg. When draw down occurs you will see one side of the air cell lower. This is where the cell has pulled away from one side of the shell, and the chick has penetrated the air cell. A small raised, cracked area can be seen on the exterior of the shell. At the first external pip, or

break of the outer shell, place a small black dot with the permanent marker to mark the beginning of the pip. Over a 24+ hour period of time you should be able to see, or lightly feel with a fingernail tip, a weakness in the shell going counterclockwise from the dot, around the egg. Note: If, after 24 hours the baby has only cut/pipped turn around the egg it is safe to assume that the chick is trapped and needs assistance out of the egg. Once the chick has drawn the blood and yolk into the body then it rapidly turns and cuts around the inside of the shell.

Many times I will leave the egg I have been watching with the parents, carefully monitoring it every few hours just in case there is a need to assist hatch. If there is no need to assist it will hatch normally. Between candling and monitoring the egg, place the egg back with the parents. If you found it off to the side in the nest, replace it in the same location. If you removed it from under the birds, put it back under them. The only time you will not return an egg to the nest is once you have removed part of the shell. Then you will need to keep it in a small container or cup with heat. Temperatures
The average hatching temperature for cockatiels is 99.5 Humidity is very important. I have found that the easiest way is to keep the tissues or bedding slightly moist. The minimum temperature that I have had success during several short cool down periods of 20-30 minutes is approximately 95-97 The reason for lowered temperature is heating and cool down tends to be just as much of a stimulant as if a chick were moving in the egg. Since I use the membrane as a restraint to prevent the chick from turning, the slight chilling stimulates movement for both warmth and circulation of blood during the drawing in of blood and then the yolk.

Opening the egg

cracking the egg open. Early on I lost eggs by being impatient and removing the shell along the side to free the baby. Most times the chick had not drawn in the blood or yolk, and I wound up with the chick bleeding to death. It is important to remember when you must open any egg, ALWAYS go through the air cell end. By going in through the air cell end you are doing the least harm while creating a window for viewing. The first step is to candle the egg to determine where the head and beak are located. You will see a dark area which is the eye,

and the beak will be the lowest point where the air cell and solid mass of the egg meet. I start removing the shell above this area, starting at the top of the egg. Once I have opened the air cell area, I just remove the shell above the membrane/solid mass of the chick. Initially, care is taken NOT to disturb the membrane. If the chick appears to be sleeping, this is an indication that it may not have drawn in the yolk sac, especially if you see an occasional opening and closing of the beak. If a chick has died prior to pipping, the membrane will appear clear with thin spidery red or brownish blood veins. The membrane covering the chick should have a slight papery white appearance appearing like a single layer of Kleenex covering the contours of the chick. If hydration is good inside the egg, the chick will have a plump look. With low humidity the membrane will look very dry, white, puckered and will appear to have been vacuum pressed to the contours of the chick. If dehydration is severe you will also notice that the membrane has separated from the inside of the shell, especially down the back of the chick. Also very important is to note the position of the chick. During the pipping stage the right wing is raised up, with the wingtip lying against the top of the head, just behind the eye. To see the chick better through the dried membrane, use a wet Q-tip and gently blot to dampen the membrane, working towards the beak. Wetting the membrane will make it transparent for easier viewing of the status of the chick. The first thing to look for is whether the blood veins look thickened (with blood) or thin, spidery-looking webbing. When the veins look swollen, the chick still has to draw blood into the body. If the veins are thin or barely visible this is a good indication that the chick has

drawn in the blood. In either situation, if I see beak movement of the chick and know it is alive I will gently penetrate, using a dampened Q-tip or the blunt end of a flat tooth pick, and push back a small amount of membrane back starting at the tip of the beak and just enough so that the beak, and head are exposed. NOTE: Use this photo as your guide for reference on the membrane covering the chick during assist hatches where the blood and yolk have yet to be drawn into the body. The other reason for having the beak, nares and upper portion of the head exposed is so that the chick does not later suffocate. This simple technique of using the membrane as a restraint has helped me successfully save any assist hatched babies, especially those I opened too soon. Once you have initially penetrated the membrane covering the beak/head, if there is any bleeding this is a good indication that the chick still needs to draw the blood into the body. The slight broken membrane and bleeding does not create enough blood loss to be life threatening. Gently blot the area, and it will quickly clot. Place the egg in a small, warm container to monitor the egg. Use tissues as support around the egg (or chick if out of the shell) Try to keep the membrane moist until the blood is drawn in. You can also slightly moisten the surrounding tissue in the container for additional moisture. You do not want the membrane to totally dry up while their is still circulating blood in the veins. Drying can constrict the blood flow, which I have lost babies from drawing in blood clots. Also, if the chick gets too dry it will also have difficulty drawing in the yolk sac. Take care that there is not too much heat, especially if the heat source is from a heating pad under the egg or baby. Note: I have accidentally had the heating pad too warm which resulted in

slightly cooking or thickening (from drying out) the yolk contents where it is then impossible for the chick to draw in the remaining yolk. In this situation, if the remaining exposed yolk is small, and the umbilical opening to the body has constricted the sac will either dry up and fall off in a few days, or if the sac is too big, it will have to be ligated (tied) and trimmed off. If the membrane has pulled away from the shell around the back of the baby let a drop of water flow into the shell to moisten the membrane. During this time it is important to keep the membrane that covers the chick moist, especially the head and shoulders. This acts as a restraint to prevent the chick from coming out of the egg too soon. You will also hear the chick vocalize. When drawing in the blood, you will hear a softer chirp, with very little body movement except for the beak and head. Once the chick starts to draw in the yolk, the vocalizing changes to a sharper louder frantic series of sharp quick chirps. Once the vocalizing changes let that membrane stay dry on the chick...this helps keep it in the hatch position. I used to remove the membrane to the upper portion of the chick, and would have chicks trying to get out of the shell before the yolk was fully absorbed, and I'd have to keep positioning them back into the shell and re-positioning the right wing on the head. Note: If you have removed too much membrane and the chick will not stay in the shell until the yolk is drawn you can cut a strip of tissue and wrap it around the chick to keep it in place. The chick will do the vocalizing with each contraction of drawing in the yolk. You will then see more movement below

the shoulders of the chick, feel the feet pressing or tapping inside the egg, and perhaps see the egg slightly rocking. When the chick is quiet, it is resting and not drawing in the yolk. It may go through several series of chirps (I have never timed this), and rest before the yolk is fully absorbed. Once the yolk is absorbed, the vocalizing is not as sharp or frantic sounding. Movement of the chick is different with its head and shoulders moving upward trying to get through the membrane restraining it. I will then wet and roll back the membrane from the upper portion of the chick. Some chicks will actually spring out of the shell. Out of the egg
Before the chick can actually be removed from the shell, look at the abdomen to be sure that the yolk is absorbed. If so, then it is safe to allow the chick

come out of the egg. Place the chick in the empty half shell and let it crawl out on it's own. Once out use the empty shell turned open side down for the chick to prop against. Give the chick a little water if it appears reddened or weak. Examine the abdomen. The umbilical opening should be fully closed. You will see the yolk under the skin. If the intestines look dark then this is another sign that the chick was trapped too long in the shell and is dehydrated. Feed some warm water to just slightly round the crop. Wait until the down is dried before placing it back with either the
parents, or another nestbox with new hatchlings or young babies, if you are not planning to handfeed from day one. Place the chick where it can prop against and egg and is snuggled in with the other chicks. Check to make sure that the parents are keeping the chick warm. Some parents may not feed the chick right away. If the chicks crop still looks empty after 1-2 hours of being placed in the nest I will assist feed the baby a very dilute formula until the parents start to feed the chick.

What about problems?

The above instructions pertain to optimal cases in which all goes well. But, what if you are faced with a chick not fully absorbing the yolk? Or the egg was

opened to soon, and most of the yolk is out of the body? The chick has almost no chance of surviving if the yolk remains out of the body. Sometimes a chick may be too dehydrated and weak to be able to fully draw in the yolk. Or it was found in the nest, chilled and the tissues and yolk partially dried.
The smaller the exposed yolk sac, the more successful the procedure to do this will be will be. You will also notice in the above photo's that the umbilical opening in the abdomen, which is where the yolk is drawn into the body, varies in size. The larger the opening the easier it is for the chick to draw in the yolk. If the umbilical opening is small or constricted care must be taken when applying pressure to the yolk sac to avoid rupture. If the yolk is too large your only option may be to ligate it. Note: A couple of the above illustrations show some situations that are beyond the scope of this article. In true emergency situations it is advisable to seek your vet for advice on what course of action to take. My first few attempts at getting the yolk to draw into the chicks body failed. I tried continual pressure and ruptured the sac in most cases. I had one little determined chick that kept putting its little feet up against my fingertip as I was trying to apply some pressure to the yolk. I realized that while its feet were against my fingertip it also was pressing its back into the palm of my hand, which enabled it to produce strong contractions to draw the yolk sac into its abdomen. VOILA! A light bulb moment occurred and the education that I got from that determined little chick has saved many Cockatiel lives. I realized this little one was compensating for the lack of the shell encasing it, which would have been what it would have pressed against for counter pressure during contractions. I would like to share with you the procedure that I learned. Note: My apology's also for not having more photo's to illustrate the rest of this technique, aside from the illustration in the next paragraph. The instances of doing this are rare. Each time I also needed someone here to take photo's while I helped the chick, and had no one available at the time. As photo's become available later on I will include them. Make sure your hands are warm and clean before proceeding. Once you begin the

procedure, you will be holding the chick in your hand until the yolk sac is drawn into the body. Begin by placing the chick on its back in the cupped

palm of your hand. Most chicks will vocalize during this time. Position your index finger so that it is facing towards the head of the chick, and directly above the yolk sac and feet. Then apply gentle pressure to the center of the yolk sac. Too much pressure, especially when the chick is not vocalizing can cause rupture of the sac. As you are gently pressing the yolk the babys feet will be push up against the fingertip, which acts as a counter pressure. As the baby chirps you will feel strong contractions, as its back presses against your palm and the feet press against your fingertip. During the contractions, the chick will make short, loud chirps in sequence with each contraction. When the chick stops vocalizing, slightly release the pressure on the yolk sac. Keep just enough light pressure to the center of the yolk so that it does not pop back out of the body. Each time the chick starts to chirp, apply pressure to the yolk sac and support to the base of the feet. This may take anywhere from two to six series of contractions (depending on how much of the yolk sac is out of the body) before it is fully absorbed into the abdomen. Once the yolk is drawn in I apply pressure through one more series of contractions. There will remain a small amount of tissue where the yolk went into the body. Gently rotate your fingertip in a circular motion to twist the umbilical cord. Hold your finger on the cord for a minute or two, during which time the chick may still chirp softly. If you remove your finger too soon, especially when the chick is chirping, some of the yolk could pop back out, then you will have to repeat the procedure.

While the chick is quiet and resting in your palm blot away any excess moisture to the cord and abdomen. If the area is too damp apply a small amount of cornstarch or flour to absorb excess moisture, and aid in drying the area. Once youre sure that the yolk will stay in the body place the chick back in the empty shell and place in the warmed container. As it gains strength it will crawl from the shell. If you dont have the shell slightly dampen the area where you will lay the chick to prevent the cord from sticking to the tissue or bedding. If the chick looks weak or dehydrated carefully feed it a drop of warmed distilled water or Pedialyte. Let the chick dry before placing in the nestbox, propping it against an egg for warmth and support. Whew! Congratulate yourself on a job well done. Assist hatching can be a scary experience the first few times. I still get the shakes while doing it. But, its is also rewarding, especially during the times when without assistance the chick would have died. The rewards of assisting such a tiny fragile life that might have otherwise been lost far exceed the risks. If you have any questions, concerns, or suggestions to include in the article please feel free to email me.