WOMEN'S PHYSICAL STRUCTURE

The truth is that a women's body shape is not compared with another women's body shape. Anyways the variation of size in a women's body must be learnt and a women's body size should be compared according to it.

breast size = 33" waist size = 26" hip size = 37"

According to the nature of science the difference between breast size and hip size is 4 inch. Basically a women should have 4 inch difference.

breast size = 35" waist size = 28" hip size = 38"

According to the above measurement , the breast and hip size vary 3 inch.

breast size = 37" waist size = 30" hip size = 41" breast size = 39" waist size = 32" hip size = 43"

The above measurements have a difference of 4 inch between breast and hip. From the above examples remember that the difference between the breast size and hip size is 3 to 4 inch. Women with breast size 41, 43, 45, 47 inch will have breast and hip size difference of 5 inch. Now we can also find the difference between hip and waist size.

hip size = 37"

waist size = 26" difference = 11" hip size = 38" waist size = 28" difference = 10"

From the above measurements when comparing the hip and waist size we get 10 to 11 inch difference. Womens waist part is 10 to 11 inch smaller than the hip part. Womens figure is classified into 3 types.

NORMAL FIGURE

Women having equal size difference between the breast , waist and hip parts are referred as normal figure. If the womens size difference follows the above measurements than it is normal figure.

LEAN FIGURE

Women having this kind of figure will have lesser measurements compared to the normal figure. The size variation between parts will be smaller compared to the normal figure. Women with this kind of figure is called lean figure.

STOUT STRUCTURE

Women with this kind of structure will have size greater than the normal figure. These people are fat people.
Posted by THAZNIM at 8:58 AM 0 comments Labels: MEASUREMENT

Mar 3, 2009
SCALE MEASUREMENT

In the art of tailoring , the scale measurement is very important. People who learn sewing should learn and understand the scale

measurement . The sewing teacher is responsible for the students to make them understand the scale measurement effectively. Now lets see how to take the scale measurement. Breast measurement = 36 inch = 36/2 = 18 inch Scale measurement = 18 inch The above following method is used to find the scale measurement for women. Womens drawer is also measured in the same way. Hip measurement = 38 inch = 38/2 =19 inch Scale measurement = 19 inch According to the scale measurement in London , sewing school uses the word scale whereas the American sewing school use the word Drafting Power. After the scale measurement is made, the calculations for the dress can be made easily. Take for example the chest measurement is 36 inch , of 36 inch = 9 inch 1/8 of 36 inch = 4 inch Scale measurement is 18 inch. of 18 inch = 9 inch of 18 inch = 4 inch Hip measurement is 38 inch scale measurement = 38/2 = 19 inch of scale measurement = 19/2 = 9 inch inches to be added = 3 inch = 9 + 3 = 12 inch Refer the stitching pattern post to have a clear idea about the scale measurement. This method can also be used to sew dresses for people who wear lower waist. Pants are stitched in this method.
Posted by THAZNIM at 9:26 AM 0 comments Labels: MEASUREMENT

Feb 15, 2009

A womens body can be measured based on their body shapes. Inch tape is the major sewing tool used to measure body. Lets see the measurement areas of a women.

1. Breast measurement 2. low breast measurement 3. waist measurement 4. hip measurement 5. full shoulder measurement 6. half shoulder measurement 7. neck measurement 8. sleeve length 9. hand measurement 10. front dress length 11. back dress length The above measurements are required for a women. Based on the costume, the required body parts can be measured. Now lets see the measurements needed for particular costumes. For bra you need to take the following measurements front body length breast measurement waist measurement For blouse, shirt, tops you need to take measurements like breast measurement waist measurement natural waist length half shoulder length sleeve length front dress length back dress length To sew a pant, the measurements required are leg length waist measurement

hip measurement thigh round measurement Womens measurement is based on two main parts, the blouse part and the pant part. So the measurements have to be taken exactly according to the parts . The parts required alone must be measured accurately to get a perfect sew. The measurements vary according to the parts of the body. Lets see how to find body rise to stitch a pant. There are two types in finding the body rise , they are : Half of the hip measurement is body rise. i.e , hip measurement = 39 inch = 39/3 = 13 inch body rise = 13 inch To stitch a drawer , first the length measurement has to be taken then the person has to sit on a chair. Then measure from waist to knee in the sitting posture. Add 1(1/2) inch. i.e, hip measurement=36 inch measurement taken in the sitting posture = 10(1/2) additional measurement= 1(1/2) so body rise=12inch Follow the body rise measurement to stitch a comfortable pant.
Posted by THAZNIM at 7:06 AM 0 comments Labels: MEASUREMENT

Feb 12, 2009

Womens measurements varies according to the parts of the body. For example the breast and the waist measurements varies about 6 to 7 inches. Breast measurement and hip measurements varies about 3 to 4 inch

The waist measurement and the hip measurement varies about 10 inch to 12 inch. Lets see the measurement variation in a womens body. Breast measurement 31 Low breast measurement 28 Waist measurement 25 Hip measurement 35
Posted by THAZNIM at 7:24 AM 0 comments Labels: MEASUREMENT

Feb 7, 2009
TYPES OF MEASUREMENTS

Sewing includes two types of measurements. They are inch measurement type and centimeter measurement type. These are the two types of measurements that are followed in sewing dresses. Measurements are based on major two types, they are as follows: British type 2. Metric type
1.

British type follows the inch , foot measurement. Metric type follows the millimeter, centimeter and meter measurement. In british type of measurement 1 inch is made up of 8 parts. Each part represents ( 1/8' ) of 1 inch. 1/8" 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" 5/8" 3/4" 7/8" 1"

1 foot = 12 inch 3 foot = 36 inch

In british style of measurement 1 centimeter represents ten parts. These ten parts are called millimeter. Ten millimeter(mm) makes one centimeter(cm).

10 mm = 1 cm 100 cm = 1m(metre)

Lets now see the conversion of british style of measurement to metric measurement

1 inch = 2.5 cm 1 foot = 30.50 cm 3 foot = 91 cm

Conversion of metric measurement to british measurement

1 cm = 0.4 inch 1 metre = 1.1 foot

METRIC TYPE BRITISH TYPE 36 inch 91 cm 45 inch 114 cm 54 inch 137 cm 60 inch 152 cm
Posted by THAZNIM at 8:18 AM 0 comments Labels: MEASUREMENT

HOW TO STITCH SARI BLOUSE

Learn to stitch the indian sari blouse used for sari costume. The method to stitch blouse is very easy. FRONT PART

The above pattern is useful in stitching a cut blouse. Lets use a readymade measurement to stitch the blouse (refer above diagram). I have used measurements in centimeter, You can do it with inch measurement. * chest = 91 cm * full length = 38 cm * Across back = 35 cm * sleeve length = 25 cm FRONT PART

* A - B = full length = 38 cm * A-C = arm hole = (chest/4)-4 = (91-4)/4 = 18.7 cm * C-D = chest loose = (chest/4)+2.5 = (91/4)+2.5 = 25.2 cm * A-I = front part = chest/3 = 91/3 = 30.3cm * A-E = shoulder = AB/2 = 35/2 = 17.5 cm * A-F = Neck Breadth = (chest/12)+1.5 = 9 cm * A-H = Front Neck = chest/8 = 11.3 cm * K-B = patti part = full length-front part=7.7 cm PATTI PART (K-B part in the above diagram)

* A-C = full length = 11 cm * A-B = patti width SLEEVE PART

* A-B = sleeve length = (chest/4)+2.5 * A-C = sleeve width = (chest/4)+2.5 * E-D = (chest/4-4)

Now let's see how to stitch the sari blouse. Before going to stitch the real material , we'll draw the stitching pattern. I have used news paper to draw the stitching pattern. If u want to stitch a blouse of your size, take a sample blouse you already have and take the measurements using inch tape. It is nessesary to draw stitching patterns for both front and back side . BACK PART PATTERN

The longest curve is the arm hole while the other curve is neck. FRONT PART PATTERN

First draw a pattern same as the back side then from the top measure 12 inch and draw a straight line. You can see a straight line in black colour drawn at a distance of 12 inch from the shoulder. The distance

can vary from 12 to 13 inch based on the breast size . A normal women can draw a line at distance of 12" else 13". Next measure 1/2 inch from the black line and mark it. Likewise measure 1/2 inch above the black line on both the extremes. Now as shown in the above diagram draw a neat curve along the points . I've drawn the curve in blue colour. Next step is to cut along the blue line like the one below.

The above diagram is the front part which is cut into 2 parts. In the first part we have to sew darts then attach the patti part(2nd part) to the front piece.

In the above image i've drawn the darts in flouresence colour. Those are the places where you have to sew darts.Now let's see how to sew using the cloth. Then take the material to stitch blouse. Below is the material i have used. Fold the cloth to the exact breadth size once as shown in the figure . Then mark the edges with marking chalk. Next carefully cut the edges without disturbing them.

Next step is to join the shoulders, then after that 2 small darts have to stitched at the back part. Then the main three darts have to be stitched carefully in the front

part. Look at the stitching pattern diagram above for the three main darts. The dart stitched at the bottom should be bigger that the 2 darts at the left and right sides. Sew 2 darts at the back part straight to the shoulder.In this figure the shoulders are joined , darts at the back part and front part are stitched.

Next to the front part , the patti part has to be stitched. After stitching the three main dots , the front part has to be stitched to the patti part. The patti part should have the remaining length compared to the back part.

Now the patti part is stitched to the main part. See to that both back

and front parts are of same length.

Next sleeve part is cut and attached to the arm. There are 2 options to stitch sleeve, you can join the sides then stitch the sleeve else you can stitch the sleeve and then join the sides. It depends on your comfort level. To cut the sleeve use ur model blouse for size. Just fold the cloth once and place the model sleeve on it, then draw the shape and cut it.

After the sleeve part is stitched, the neck crosspeice has to be stitched and then hooks have to be stitched. Finally we finish the complete blouse like this. Try and send your feedback.

The one below is the recent blouse i sewed.

Posted by THAZNIM at 9:55 AM