CONTENTS

AIR-LAYERING TECHNIQUE ETIOLATION GRAFTS METHODS

Plaque graft Graft of majorcan escutcheon Graft of Crown under plastic bag Omega graft Graft of small shield Graft of lateral subcortical Stake Graft of a Full Single Crack Graft of full double Crack Graft in Conifers

Compatible hosts for the different fruit trees

AIR-LAYERING TECHNIQUE
Air-layering is a technique of reproduction of trees and shrubs, by means of which the emission by roots in a branch is caused, to cut it later and to separate it of the plant mother, giving rise this way to new independent identical tree to her. In order to improve the success of this technique it is advisable, although non-essential, to cover with an opaque tape the piece with crust with the small branch that we want to lean, to cause his transformation in crust without chloroplasts, more similar to the crust by the roots, which is called ETIOLATION. This way they increase the probabilities of success, since the etiolated crust emits roots with facility, even in trees of very difficult rooting. I put the example of an aerial layer in a Litchi sinensis:

SPRING: to cover with opaque tape a piece with crust.

SPRING OF THE FOLLOWING YEAR: to retire the opaque tape and to verify that the crust already is etiolated, transformed into crust of root without chloroplasts.

With two parallel and clean cuts to clear a ring of crust of a centimeter. In order to facilitate the emission by roots still more hormones of rooting in the ring and the rest of the etiolated crust can be put, although it is not essential.

Next we take a piece of plastic transparency, surrounded with him the small branch to lean and we tied it with a cord in its inferior part, staying as a glass.

Soon we come to fill up it with crowd, vegetal earth or sphagnum and we tied it in its superior part .

We strongly tied the layer with a cord, so that the earth, disturbs or sphagnum contacts perfectly with the ring of the crust.

Next we injected water with a syringe to dampen the earth, disturbs or sphagnum and we repeated the injections every 2 or 3 weeks.

Next we covered the layer with paper with newspaper or one laminates of aluminum paper, to isolate it of the sun and the light.

FOUR MONTHS AFTER: In an inspection of the layers it is verified if already they have taken root and, in affirmative case, is come to clear the paper of newspaper.

Another taken root layer.

Next the layer taken root is cut with a clean cut.

Layers already cut fence sights.

And only lack to already clear the plastic wrapper to them with taken care of much of not breaking the set of earth and roots and transplanting them in flowerpots with vegetal earth. They are watered abundantly and they are placed in a place with much light, but without direct sun. Normally they lose the old leaves and immediately they appear, which means that already we have new tree, identical to the plant mother.

Source: http://www.jardin-mundani.com/English/Air-layer.htm

ETIOLATION TECHNIQUE
The Etiolation is a technique based on the capacity of a vegetal branch in transforming its crust with chloroplasts, able to make the photosynthesis, in crust without chloroplasts, very similar to the crust of the roots, depriving it of the light by means of the positioning of an opaque tape around the part of the branch that we want to etiolate. This way the transformed crust has greater facility in emitting roots, which allows the clonic reproduction of the plants, specially the very obstinate plants to generate root. In the nature east phenomenon of spontaneous form when being takes place cover a low branch of tree, shrub or liana by a landslide or the leaves fallen in Autumn . When private being of the light, the buried part undergoes a natural process of etiolation with later emission of roots. This same one happens in the techniques of simple and earthed up layer. In this image several inferior branches of Mundani tree, Acrocarpus fraxinifolius, been able by the taken root one of a branch directly in the ground, are seen to which them the crust in different parts with newspaper blade has been surrounded covered by sticky tape, to deprive them of the light. One is due to thus make in the branches exposed to the light pave direct, so that the sun does not reheat (it cooks or it burns) the zone to etiolate. The newspaper blade does not let pass the light and its off-white color is not warmed up with the direct sun. After months, between a three minimum of and a maximum of twelve, when clearing the sticky tape and the newspaper blade, the crust is already etiolated. Then the branch below the etiolated zone is cut, put rooting hormones and sowing to him in a flowerpot or its definitive place, since in mundani tree does not work the aerial leaned one, by its strong tendency to auto-pruning of the lowest branches.

In this other image sees a branch of Litchi sinensis surrounded by a black tape. In this case a tape can be put black, because the leaves give shade him and prevent that the sun reheats the zone to etiolate, reason why can be done without the newspaper blade.

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Happened between three and twelve months the opaque tape retires and the etiolated crust is observed, already without chloroplasts, with the absorbent surface like the one by the roots and with small points that are the radical sketches. At this moment two ways can be followed: to make him a layer, method very used by the nurserymen and the teachers of the Bonsai aerial, or to cut the branch below the etiolated zone, to put to him rooting hormones and to seed it in a flowerpot or its definitive place.

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In this other image a branch of avocado is seen surrounded by opaque tape sprint.

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And here another branch of avocado already etiolated is appraised, after clearing the tape to him to sprint. In this case ways can be followed such that in the case of the Lichi sinensis: leaned aerial or it seeds of the branch in flowerpot or its definitive place with rooting hormones.

Source: http://www.jardin-mundani.com/English/etiolation.htm

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GRAFTS METHODS

These are the grafts that I usually do. I will be adding the explanation of other methods as it is them doing. I hope that it serves to you as aid and you are animated to try it. --- List of compatibilities between grafts and hosts.---

Plaque graft Graft of majorcan escutcheon Graft of Crown under plastic bag Omega graft Graft of small shield Graft of lateral subcortical Stake Graft of a Full Single Crack Graft of full double Crack Graft in Conifers

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Plaque graft
I put like example a Graft of Washington Navel orange tree on lemon tree.

In the first place it is cut with the knife to graft the crust of the host in a smooth zone and without buds, doing two horizontal cuts united by a vertical section in form of laid down H. Soon with aid of the knife to graft the crust of the wood of each side is taken off as if we opened a window and a little stands out the crust of each side in vertical sense, so that soon it does not cover completely the plaque. Observe the clearest cambium under the crust, that it is the only part of the tree that grows and must make intimate contact with the cambium of the plaque.

Next of the knife to graft two complete horizontal cuts in the crust take control of a branch of the variety to graft, surrounding it completely, followed of another vertical section that one both horizontal cuts. Soon with the aid of the knife the crust is taken off and it removes finds out. This is the plaque to graft, that can have one, two and up to three buds.

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The plate already taken off and prepared to be grafted.

In this case the plaque has two buds, indicated by both petioles of the leaves, that we will have cut to diminish the sweating of the graft. Notice the juicy inner cambium of clearer color. That is the alive part of the plaque and that must be united intimately with the cambium of the host.

Next the plate in the window of the host is placed, with the two parts of the crust already reduced, so that they do not cover the plaque completely. Observe that the plaque and the window of the host have the same measures.

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Here the reduced crust of the host is appraised better, leaving discovered both buds with the petioles. The crust of the plaque, as much in its superior part as in its inferior part, must agree with the crust of the window of the host, so that there is a continuity, once taken hold the graft.

Next the graft is tied with transparent plastic tape, special for grafts of citruses. This tape is the same one that is used for the grafts in tomatoes and watermelons. It is very resistant, very easy to handle and its transparency allows to see the state of the graft. Once surrounded completely the graft, simply make two simple knots with both ends of the tape. Spent about 10 days, if the graft is successful, the petioles fall down touching them with the finger and leave a green affluent wound in the plaque. After 15-20 days untie the tape and, if they have not brought forth the buds already, they do not take too much in doing it.

Source: http://jardin-mundani.com/English/GRAFTS/plaque.htm

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Graft of majorcan escutcheon

I put like example a graft of fig tree with two harvests of figs on a wild fig tree born of seed of about 4 years. This type of graft can be done in Spring, when the host and the graft are in the heat of growth. Also it is possible to be done in Summer, but in this case, the bud is not developed until the following Spring.

This method of graft is special for fig trees and others ficus, but also it serves for other trees or shrubs of soft wood. I have made several grafts of majorcan escutcheon grafting some buds of Datura arborea of red flowers on another one Datura of white flowers, giving rise to a shrub with flowers of two colors.

Also it is a good method for the avocado, the mango, the Asimina triloba (Paw-Paw tree), the Carob tree and the white and black mulberry trees.

In first place you make a small cut on the host in form of small tongue and next another cut over of about 3 or 4 centimeters, also in form of tongue more large, cutting until arriving to the inferior little tongue and detach a piece of crust with a little of wood.

In this image it is appraised very well the form of the cut and the three layers of the stem: A--- Exterior layer with the skin or dead crust and underneath the Floema or alive crust. B--- The very thin intermediate layer or Cambium, that is the only part of tree that grows: towards outside giving to the Floema or crust and towards inside giving to the Xilema or wood. C--- The internal layer with the Xilema or tender alive wood, which, when it suffers the lignification and becomes hardened, dies and gives true wood.

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Next you cut an escutcheon with a little wood that contains a bud without developing and a leaf, which must be cut leaving petiole.

The escutcheon with wood must be of tender wood of the same year, that is, that is not lignified yet absolutely. The escutcheon must have the same exact form of the cut that we have made before on the host. You can see the bud without developing and the inferior cut on half-bevel form that it will fit in the inferior tongue of the cut of the host.

Petiole of the cut leaf serves us to manipulate with facility the escutcheon, without touching the internal part, which must be avoided not to contaminate with bacteria and fungi the cut, which would make fail the graft.

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Here very well you see the three layers of any lignified plant. The internal white part is the Xilema in process of lignification. Follows it the alive Xilema that little by little is lignified towards inside. Follows it a very thin green line that is the true CAMBIUM, the only layer that grows and that must be put in intimate contact with the cambium of the host so that its union takes place and the graft is successful. Next toward outside follows it the Floema or alive crust, followed of the dead and dry crust.

Next the escutcheon is placed in the cut of the host, putting it so that the three aforesaid layers agree. Several grafts can be done simultaneously to the host, even of different varieties of fig tree.

Next the graft with transparent plastic tape is tied. This tape is the same one that is used for the grafts in plants of tomatos and watermelons. It is very resistant, very easy to handle and its transparency allows to see the state of the graft. Also it is possible to be tied with raphia to graft. See that has been left petiole outside. This has two purposes: on the one hand the juice of petiole serves in the first days like food and hidratation of the escutcheon, which are reabsorbed to survive and on the other hand, if the graft is successful, after about 8 -12 days, when touching petiole with the finger, this one yields easily and it is come off the escutcheon, leaving a green and hale mark. However if the graft fails, the petiole falls with difficulty or it stays glued on the dead and dry escutcheon.

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They have spent 8 days and, when doing a slight pressure with the finger on petiole, this one has been given off with much facility, which is indicative of success.

In this image you go away the green and hale mark and heals left by petiole when being given off. This detail means that the escutcheon is well alive and that already receives nutrients and water of the host. In this phase it is necessary to hope one more week and soon to untie the graft, returning it to tie immediately, but leaving the bud discovered, so that it can appear.

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Some weeks have passed and the bud of the escutcheon begins to appear. At this moment or a little before, if you are sure that the graft is successful, cut the host over the graft. In other species this is not due to do until the buds of the graft measure 10 or 15 cm, but in the case of fig tree in general it is possible to be done without problems, given his facility to sprout again after an energetic pruning, without too much danger to drown to the host or the bud of the graft.

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One week later the bud measures about 4 cm. Already we have a fig tree of the wished variety.

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And here it is after 27 days. It have grown 30 cm..

Source: http://www.jardin-mundani.com/English/GRAFTS/Escutcheon-majorcan.htm

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Graft of Crown under plastic bag

I put like example a Graft of mandarin tree of Philippines on lemon tree. This type of graft can be made in Spring in nobody tree or shrub of perennial leaf, since it needs that tree already is wide-awake of its winter lethargy and the crust of the host takeoff with facility.

I have made grafts successfully with this technique in:

-Orange tree. -Lemon tree. -Mandarin tree. -Kumquat. -Grapefruit tree. -Avocado. -Finger Lime (Microcitrus australasica)

In the trees and shrubs of caducous leaf the technique is the same one, but one becomes from half-full to end of Winter and it is possible to be done without plastic bag. In these caducous trees also this type of graft can be done in the heat of vegetation, from half-full of May to end of August, treating them as if they were of perennial leaf, using the same described technique next.

In the first place a branch of the host is cut with a hand saw.

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Next you make a vertical cut of about 5 cm. in the crust of host with the knife to graft.

With the aid of the later part of the knife to graft the crust of the host is taken off.

Next you take a small branch of the variety you want to graft, cut its leaves, except the superior one, leaving petiole and you cut with half-bevel form with the knife to graft one of the sides of the cutting. We must avoid to touch with the fingers the cut part.

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Here we see as it is left the half-bevel cut.

Next the cutting by the bevelled side is introduced within the cut of the host, introducing all the bevelled part, so that both cuts contact intimately and its union can be produced.

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Thus it is introduced the cutting.

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Next the graft with green cord is tied and it smears all the graft with mastic to graft, without forgetting the superior part of the cut of the host and the superior part of the cutting. This way it is sealed the graft hermetically, with which its drying by sweating is avoided.

Later you moisten the cutting with water cleans and cover the graft with a transparent plastic bag, avoiding so the cutting is dried. After about 15 or 20 days, the plastic bag can be retired, since in this time already both cambiums have been united and the host already provides some water and nutrients to the graft. When the buds of the cuttings appear, you hope that the buds have about 10 or 15 cm and you untie the cord. In case you live in a zone whipped by winds, you tie the buds to the branches of the host so that they are not broken.

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Thus it has been left the lemon tree after grafting his five branches.

And this is the result after 40 days. The buds have appeared and they already measure 4 cm.

When they measure about 10 cm. I will clear the fastening so that it does not drown the graft and the sap can happen without difficulty.

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Spent months, already without the tying, the buds measure more than 30 cm. and the graft is consolidated. Down on the right another graft is seen on the same host of lemon tree.

Source: http://jardin-mundani.com/English/GRAFTS/Crown.htm

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Omega graft
I put like example a Graft of female Kiwi on male Kiwi. This type of graft can be made in all the trees and shrubs, as much of leaf expires like of perennial leaf, in nobody ms included/understood between end of Winter and principles of Autumn. In the grafts Omega of trees and shrubs of perennial leaf it is necessary to cover the graft with a plastic bag. Also the grafts must be covered with leaf expires if they are made vegetation in the heat of, but not if they become when the tree is still hibernating. A detail important to consider is that the stake to graft and the host must have the same thickness exactly.

In the first place it is cut with scissors to prune a piece of stem with a yolk of the plant to graft and next it is come to do the cut to him Omega in its inferior part with a special apparatus for this type of grafts.

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Here podeis to see these special pliers.

Professional Grafting Pliers.

And here the blade in form of Omega is appraised.

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The same piece of seen previous stem of side.

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In the host an inverted cut with the same apparatus becomes, where it will fit the graft exactly.

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Next the graft in the host, introducing it of side is reconciled, respecting the bending in Omega.

Here the perfect anchorage of the graft in the host can be seen in detail.

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Next it is tied with special plastic tape to graft tomateras and watermelons, it is smeared with mastic to graft the superior end of the graft so that it does not lose water and is not attacked by fungi and it is left without covering with a plastic stock market, by being of leaf it expires and to be still hibernating.

Source: http://jardin-mundani.com/English/GRAFTS/Omega.htm

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Graft of small shield

I put like example a graft of Navelate orange tree on lemon tree. This type of graft becomes April, May and June by bud guarding, that is, that the bud sprouts the same year and in July, August and September by bud sleeping, that is, that small shield is successful but the bud does not appear until the following Spring. It is the typical graft of the citruses and the rose bushes.

In the first place it is cut with the knife to graft the crust of the host in a smooth zone and without buds, doing a horizontal cut and another vertical that downwards goes from the horizontal cut several centimeters, in form of T.

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Next, helping us with the knife to graft, the crust of both sides is taken off as if we opened a window.

Here you see in detail as the crust is detached, leaving in the open the white and substantial cambium.

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Next you take the branch of the variety to graft and with the knife to graft you cut the crust in small shield form, trying that is left in the superior wide part a good bud with petiole of a leaf, which you will have cut to diminish the sweating of small shield. Soon, making handle with taken care of with the knife to graft, you took off small shield, avoiding to touch with the knife the internal part of the bud.

Thus we must have left small shield, with their typical form of medieval shield.

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Lateral vision of small shield with cut petiole. When manipulating the small shield you must avoid to touch with the fingers the internal and substantial part, that is, the Cambium, the alive part that grows and is united intimately to the cambium of the host. In order to avoid to touch it, we must take the small shield by petiole.

Here you see the internal part of small shield with the green cambium and several small points that correspond from top to bottom to the internal part of the bud, the base of petiole of the leaf (two small points) and soon more down the outline of a thorn, that in this case has not been developed. You must avoid to take the small shield with a thorn, since when trying to take off them, the thorn does not take off and it breaks the small shield.

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Next you take the small shield by the petiole and you introduce it in the opened small window of the host.

If we have taken off well the crust of the host, the introduction of small shield is very easy.

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Once introduced you must perfectly fit it in the opening of the host, trying that the superior part of small shield contacts with the horizontal cut of the host, so that, once taken hold the graft, there is a continuity in the crusts.

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And finally you tie the graft with transparent plastic tape, leaving outside the petiole, that will serve us to know if the small shield is alive, since, in successful case, to the 12 or 15 days, touching it with the finger, it will be taken off with much facility, leaving in small shield a green wound. However, if it is not alive, petiole dries, so that, if it is taken off, it leaves a brown wound in small shield, which means that this one has died and the graft has not taken hold. Past 20 or 25 days, the bud appears and you can untie the plastic tape. This tape is the one that is habitually used for the grafts of tomato and watermelons. In case you have not this tape, the fastening can be made without problems with green or white raphia.

Source: http://www.jardin-mundani.com/English/GRAFTS/Smallshield.htm

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Graft of lateral subcortical stake

I put as example several stake grafts or prongs of female pistachio on pistachio born of seed. This method can be used successfully in the following trees of caducous leaf from half-full of the Winter to end of the Spring, depending on the species, since it needs that the host is beginning to already wake up of the winter lethargy and its crust takeoff with facility: -Pistachio. -Almond tree. -Peach tree. -Plum tree. -Cherry tree. -Alpricot. -European medlar tree (Mespilus germanica). -Quince. -Apple tree. -Pomegranate tree. -Khaki. In trees of perennial leaf it is equal of successful, but the graft must be covered with a bag of plastic: -Medlar of Japan. -All the species of citruses. -Avocado. -Mango. -The trees of caducous leaf in the heat of vegetation, even in Summer. -Some ornamental coniferous: Juniperus, Thuia

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In the first place a cut in T in a smooth zone of the crust of the host is made with the knife to graft. With care and helping yourself with the separator of the knife to graft, the crust is taken off as if a window was opened.

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The stake to graft is reduced in bevel by a single side.

Not bevelled side of the stake.

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The stake by the bevelled side is introduced underneath the raised crust of the host.

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It is not necessary to introduce the stake under both sides of the raised crust, is sufficient that it is introduced in one of the two sides. The result is the same one, since most important it is to intimately contact the bevelled part of the stake with the subcortical cambium of the host.

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In this case it is left a bud introduced, which is an advantage in case, once taken hold and brought forth the graft, the wind breaks the graft. If it is left the part introduced, the bud can bring forth and save the graft.

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Next the graft is tied strongly with raphia to graft.

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The union with mastic to graft is smeared.

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Here two subcortical lateral grafts are seen on different levels in the same branch from pistachio tree. And the lateral subcortical grafts are already made. This type of graft is a variant of graft of lateral Crack, modified by me, changing the cut of host in form of tongue-piece by the cut in T of the crust, equal to cuts of graft of small shield, but changing the small shield by a stake. This type of graft can be done in all the trees and shrubs, as much of caducous like perennial leaf, with the reservation of which in those of perennial leaf the stake is replaced by little branch with leaves and the graft is covered with plastic transparency bag during several weeks, so that it does not dehydrate. Another circumstance to consider is that the host must be on the verge of waking up of the hibernation, to be able to take off the crust with facility.

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And here have you the result, spent about two months. After bringing forth the bud of the stake, I have cut the superior part of the host, so that all the sap goes to the graft and grows vigorous. Two weeks passed, I will clear the fastening of raphia, so that this one does not strangle to the graft, making difficult the passage of the sap.

Source: http://www.jardin-mundani.com/English/GRAFTS/lateralsubcortical.htm

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Graft of a Full Single Crack

I put as example a Graft of Cherry tree on a sucker of Sour cherry tree. This type of graft can be done in all the rosaceous arboreal plants of caducous leaf in hibernation and other trees whenever they are of caducous leaf and in hibernation at the moment of making the graft, that is to say, from half-full to end of Winter. I have successfully done it in: -Almond tree. -Peach tree. -Plum tree. -Cherry tree. -Sour cherry tree. -Quince. -European medlar tree. -Apricot. -Apple tree. -Kiwi. -Pear tree. -Pistachio. -Nashi. -Pomegranate tree. Also it is possible to be done in trees and shrubs of perennial leaf from end of Winter to end of Spring, changing the stake by a little branch with leaves and covering the graft with a transparent plastic bag during several weeks, to avoid its dehydration. The same previous method can be applied to the grapevines of vineyard and grapevines of vine arbor at the height of summer from end of June to principles of August, choosing the stakes of still slightly green new vine shoot of the year and with a already mature bud (this method in green receives the name of herbaceous Graft). The graft in the Grapevine becomes just as in the indicated species or with a stake with a single bud or at the most two, cutting the leaf that accompanies to the bud leaving petiole and wetting the stake with clean water once made the graft. Later the graft is covered with plastic bag during 2 or 3 weeks, protecting it of the intense sun with the shade of a branch. Usually they take hold quickly and, if they become before finishing month of July, the bud appears to the 15 or 20 days.

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In the first place it is cut with scissors to prune the sucker or host to the wished height, thinking about the height that we want that the grafted tree has.

We part by half in longitudinal sense the host with a knife to graft.

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The cut agrees that it is of between 5 and 10 cm., depending on the thickness of the stake to graft: the more heavy it is the more long must be the cut.

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The host divided in form of V, where the stake of the graft will be inserted.

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With the knife to graft reduce in bevel the stakes to graft by both sides like a wedge (It is very important that the host and the stake to graft have the same diameter exactly).

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The reduced stake in form of wedge seen from the reduced side .

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Put the stake within the longitudinal section of the host, trying that the crust of the host touch the crust of the stake, in order that the cambium of both can be united.

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The two parts of the graft adjust well.

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The union is tied with raphia to graft.

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This paste or mastic to graft is excellent, since, once dry, it acquires plastic consistency perfectly, waterproofing the graft and avoiding losses of humidity, as well as preventing the development of fungi that could rot the graft, since it have fungicide substances.

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If you have pruned the terminal bud (very advisable thing already which it stimulates the sprout of the lateral buds), you must to also put mastic in the terminal end of the stake to avoid the dehydration of the stake.

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The smeared of all the graft is continued, to obtain a hermetic closing.

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And the graft of full single Crack is already done. Now only remain to wait for a few weeks, to see the results. I hope that these explanations accompanied by photos are to them useful.

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Passed 50 days this one it is the result.

Source: http://www.jardin-mundani.com/English/GRAFTS/fullsingleCrack.htm

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Graft of full double Crack

I put as example a graft of two stakes of european medlar tree (Mespilus germanica) on a sucker or host of wild pear tree.

After cutting the sucker to the wished height, we divide it by half in longitudinal sense with the knife to graft.

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Two stakes of european medlar tree are prepared, reducing them in bevel by both sides with the knife to graft. Next they are introduced well in the longitudinal section in V of the host, fitting them so that the external crusts of both stakes contact and they are aligned with the crust of the host, in order that both cambiums merges.

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They are tied well with raphia to graft.

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It is smeared all well with mastic or paste to seal, without forgetting the trimmed ends of both stakes. And the graft of full double crack is already made. Several weeks later the result will be seen. This type of graft can be done from half-full to end of Winter in all the arboreal rosaceus plants of caducous leaf in hibernation: pear tree, apple tree, cherry tree, almond tree, apricot, plum tree, sour cherry, european medlar tree, quince, azarole, hawthorn, service tree, nashi, etc.. and in any other tree of caducous leaf and hard wood: khaki, pistachio, jujube, rivet, elm tree, etc... Also it is possible to be done in trees and shrubs of perennial leaf from end of Winter to end of Spring, changing the stake by a small branch with leaves and covering the graft with a transparent plastic bag during several weeks, to avoid the dehydration.

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Passed 50 days this one it is the result. The stake of the left apparently goes more delayed in the sprout, because their terminal buds are floral with a cocoon in each one of them. I had to take advantage of this stake because I took the stakes of another graft that I did three years ago and had few branches where to choose. They are of a old variety of European medlar tree, not cultivated in the actuality. I saved the variety taking a small stake of an old dying European medlar tree, that my grandfather grafted 70 years ago on a wild hawthorn. I grafted it on "a modern" European medlar tree that gives very great but totally insipid fruits. After three years, the graft already had sufficient branches and I have been able to take stakes to reproduce it by graft, not to lose the variety.

Source: http://www.jardin-mundani.com/English/GRAFTS/fulldoubleCrack.htm

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Graft in Conifers
I present you a Graft of Pinus pinea on Pinus halepensis. The conifers, by their resinous sap, must graft in winter, when they emit less resin to be in the period of winter rest. In the conifers the best grafting method is the Graft of lateral Crack under plastic bag, conserving the apex of the host tree, that stretches the sap upwards, which it happens through the graft and it favors its takes hold. If the host is very young you can graft with the method of full single Crack with a small branch of the same thickness that the host. If one is a more grown host, you can graft with the method of lateral Crack with a small branch of smaller thickness than the host. In this last case several grafts and to different heights can be done at the same time. In the case that I present you the host is wider than the small branch to graft and therefore the graft is of lateral Crack. Today is friday at 15 hours of 2 February of 2007, the ground is drenched by a recent rain, does not blow the wind, the temperature is of 12C and the sky is cleared.

The host is a healthy and vigorous mediterranean pine, Pinus halepensis, of about 7 years old.

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A zone of the smooth and straight stem is chosen near the apex of the host.

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With the knife to graft you make a cut in the crust in form of small tongue, deepening a little until the wood.

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Here you see the finished cut already.

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The same previous cut.

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This is the small branch to graft that is due to choose hale and if possible of the part of the pine that watches the south, who receive more solar energy and have more sugars in its leaves and stem.

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After taking the inferior leaves, with the knife to graft you cut the inferior part of the small branch in double bevel.

The other face of the cut in double bevel.

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The double bevel, side sight.

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Now you introduce the small branch in the cut of the host.

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The two parts of the graft adjust well.

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Next the graft with transparent plastic tape is tied. If with the tied all the zone of the graft is well covered, it is not necessary to put mastic to graft or paste to seal.

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The graft is finished. In order to avoid that the grafted small branch dehydrates, you moisten it with clean water.

Next you cover the wet small branch with a transparent plastic bag and it is tied on the inferior part. If the host is in a very sunny zone, the graft with a tied branch is covered superficially, so that it does shade to it.

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After thirty days you take off the plastic bag and, when the bud of the small branch appears in spring, you untie the graft. A few days later the apex of the host over the grafted small branch is cut and gradually in the next weeks you prune all the branches of the host, until only is left the graft.

Source: http://www.jardin-mundani.com/English/GRAFTS/graft-conifers.htm

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Compatible hosts for the different fruit trees

Here I put a list of the more common compatible hosts for the Mediterranean and subtropical climate fruit trees. In all the cases the best host is always, save exceptions, the franc tree born of seed of the same species that the graft. The few exceptions are, for example, the quince that are the best host for the common pear tree, the lemon tree that is the best host for kumquat and limequat, the Pistacia lentiscus and Pistacia terebinthus that are excellent hosts for the pistachio nut tree, etc... List of compatibilities:

......ANNONA CHERIMOLIA can be grafted only on other Annona cherimolia, except in the tropical countries, where also can be grafted on other trees of Annonaceae family: anon, guanabana, atemoya, etc...

......CASIMIROA EDULIS can be grafted only on other white sapote of Mexico, except in the tropical countries where there are other compatible species of Casimiroa.

......CASTANEA SATIVA can be grafted on any other specie of Castanea genus: sativa, mollissima, etc...

......CITRUS AURANTIFOLIA, can be grafted on any other tree of Citrus genus.

......LIMERO, KUMQUAT, C, CALAMONDN,c......CITRUS LIMONIUM also on any other tree of Citrus genus, specially the lemon tree born of seed and the bitter orange tree.

...CITRUS PARADISI, TANGELO and CHIRONJA DE PUERTO RICO on any other citrus, specially the grapefruit tree born of seed, the lemon tree and the bitter orange tree.

......CITRUS SINENSIS can be grafted on any other tree of Citrus genus, specially the bitter orange tree.

......CORYLUS AVELLANA only on other hazel trees.

..... CRATAEGUS AZAROLUS can be grafted on: -----Crataegus monogyna. -----Crataegus azarolus. -----Cydonia oblonga. -----Pyrus communis. -----Eryobotria japonica. -----Pyrus pyrifolia. -----Mespilus germanica. -----Sorbus domestica.

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...CYDONIA OBLONGA on: -----Cydonia oblonga born of seed. -----Pyrus communis. -----Eryobotria japonica. -----Pyrus pyrifolia Nash. -----Crataegus azarolus. -----Crataegus monogyna. -----Mespilus germanica. -----Sorbus domestica.

......DIOSPYROS KAKI only on Diospyros kaki born of seed, Diospyros virginiana and Diospyros kaki Sharon and in the tropical countries also on other trees of the Ebenaceae family of Diospyros genus.

......DIOSPYROS KAKI var. SHARON on common Diospyros kaki, wild Diospyros kaki born of seed, Diospyros virginiana and other tropical trees of Ebenaceae family.

......ERYOBOTRIA JAPONICA on: -----Eryobotria japonica born of seed. -----Pyrus communis. -----Pyrus pyrifolia Nash. -----Cydonia oblonga. -----Crataegus azarolus. -----Crataegus monogyna. -----Mespilus germanica. -----Sorbus domestica.

..FINGER LIME (Microcitrus australasica) on any tree of Citrus genus, specially the lemon tree.

......FICUS CARICA only on other fig tree and wild fig tree born of seed.

......JUGLANS REGIA on: -----Juglans regia born of seed. -----Juglans nigra.

......KUMQUAT , LIMEQUAT and CITRANGEQUAT on any other tree of Citrus genus, specially the lemon tree and also on Poncirus trifoliata and Fortunella margarita.

......LUCUMA MAMMOSA of PERU only on other Lucuma mammosa, except in tropical countries where there are compatible species of Pouteria genus.

......MALUS PUMILLA can be grafted only on other apple tree.

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......MANDARIN and CLEMENTIN TREES on any other tree of Citrus genus, specially the bitter orange.

......MANGIFERA INDICA only on other mango tree, except in tropical countries where also can be grafted on other tropical trees of Anacardiaceae family of Mangifera genus.

...MESPILUS GERMANICA on: -----Cydonia oblonga. -----Mespilus germanica born of seed. -----Pyrus communis. -----Eryobotria japonica. -----Pyrus pyrifolia Nash. -----Crategus azarolus. -----Crategus monogyna. -----Sorbus domestica.

......MORUS ALBA on: -----Morus alba var. pendula. -----Morus nigra. -----Morus rubra.

......MORUS NIGRA on: -----Morus alba. -----Morus alba var. pendula. -----Morus rubra.

......MORUS RUBRA on: -----Morus alba. -----Morus alba var. pendula. -----Morus nigra.

......OLEA EUROPEA on: -----Olea europea var. europea. -----Olea europea var. sylvestris.

......PERSEA AMERICANA can be grafted on: -----Persea gratissima or americana. -----Persea indica.

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......PISTACIA VERA on: -----Pistacia lentiscus. -----Pistacia terebinthus. -----Pistachio nut tree born of seed.

......PRUNUS AMIGDALUS can be grafted on: -----Prunus amigdalus born of seed, sweet or bitter. -----Prunus armeniaca. -----Prunus cerasifera of diverse varieties. -----Prunus persica. -----Prunus persica Nectarina. -----Prunus persica Paraguayo. -----Prunus spinosa.

......PRUNUS ARMENIACA can be grafted on: -----Prunus armeniaca born of seed. -----Prunus amigdalus. -----Prunus cerasifera. -----Prunus persica. -----Prunus spinosa. -----Prunus persica Nectarina. -----Prunus persica Paraguayo.

......PRUNUS AVIUM can be grafted on: -----Prunus avium. -----Prunus cerasus.

......PRUNUS CERASIFERA on: -----Prunus cerasifera born of seed. -----Prunus amigdalus. -----Prunus armeniaca. -----Prunus persica. -----Prunus spinosa. -----Prunus persica Nectarina. -----Prunus persica Paraguayo.

......PRUNUS CERASUS on: -----Prunus cerasus. -----Prunus avium.

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......PRUNUS PERSICA can be grafted on: -----Prunus persica born of seed. -----Prunus amigdalus. -----Prunus persica Nectarina. -----Prunus persica Paraguayo. -----Prunus cerasifera. -----Prunus armeniaca. -----Prunus spinosa.

......PRUNUS PERSICA NECTARINA on: -----Prunus persica. -----Prunus amigdalus. -----Prunus persica Nectarina. -----Prunus persica Paraguayo born of seed. -----Prunus cerasifera. -----Prunus armeniaca. -----Prunus spinosa.

......PRUNUS PERSICA PARAGUAYO on: -----Prunus persica. -----Prunus amigdalus. -----Prunus persica Nectarina. -----Prunus persica Paraguayo born of seed. -----Prunus cerasifera. -----Prunus armeniaca. -----Prunus spinosa.

......PRUNUS SPINOSA on: -----Prunus spinosa. -----Prunus armeniaca. -----Prunus amigdalus. -----Prunus cerasifera. -----Prunus persica. -----Prunus persica Nectarina. -----Prunus persica Paraguayo.

......PSIDIUM GUAJAVA on any other specie of Psidium genus.

......PUNICA GRANATUM only on other Punica granatum.

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......PYRUS COMMUNIS can be grafted on: -----Pyrus communis born of seed. -----Cydonia oblonga. -----Crataegus azarolus. -----Crataegus monogyna. -----Eryobotria japonica. -----Mespilus germanica. -----Sorbus domestica. -----Pyrus pyrifolia.

..PYRUS PYRIFOLIA NASH on: -----Pyrus betulaefolia, the chinese wild pear tree. -----Pyrus communis born of seed. -----Cydonia oblonga. -----Crategus azarolus. -----Crataegus monogyna. -----Eryobotria japonica. -----Mespilus germanica. -----Sorbus domestica.

......QUERCUS ILEX of sweet acorns only on other Quercus ilex.

......SORBUS DOMESTICA on: -----Sorbus domestica. -----Pyrus communis. -----Pyrus pyrifolia Nashi. -----Cydonia oblonga. -----Mespilus germanica. -----Eryobotria japonica. -----Crataegus azarolus. -----Crataegus monogyna.

......VITIS VINIFERA only on other Vitis vinifera.

......ZIZYPHUS SATIVA only on other Zizyphus.

Etc.............the list is unending................

Source: http://www.jardin-mundani.info/English/GRAFTS/List-compatibilities.htm

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