The Great War As I Saw It
The Great War As I Saw It
The Great War As I Saw It
Amazon.com
Amazon (Canada)
www.legacybookspress.com
This e-book may be copied and distributed freely online so long as the file is not altered, and
no monies are charged.
Table of Contents
To The Officers And Men Of The First Canadian Division, C.E.F.. . . viii
Foreword. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix
Preface. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xi
Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
iv
peculiar landscape that was the Western Front. He used every means of
travel available–save the tank–to visit and minister to the men of the
Canadian Corps in every situation. His wide ranging travels brought him
into contact with the front line soldiers in the trenches and dugouts, and the
generals and their staffs populating the châteaus behind the lines. Being a
man of the cloth, people were, of course, Scott’s primary concern; as a
result they figure prominently in his work. Scott gives a human face to
many of the soldiers that he encountered during the war. And even though
he may not have ever known their names, he describes them vividly. Scott’s
concern for the men extended beyond his encounters with them; he
frequently discussed the fate of these men and deepened the story of the
men he met, often only once. Scott’s care for the men even extended
beyond the confines of the war itself, and his description of what befell
these men after they returned speaks of this care Scott had of his flock.
Scott also left an indelible mark on the soldiers, and many soldiers recollect
the appearance of Scott in their lives in memoirs, interviews, diaries,
journals, and letters home.
This speaks of a sense of community that came to exist in men that
served with the Canadian Expeditionary Force. In the course of Scott’s
work he even engaged in a dialogue with this community as he asked fellow
veterans of the fate of some of the men he lost track of during and after the
war. But, this sense of community and Scott’s intense concern for his flock
also came into conflict with Scott’s position as a man of the cloth. It is the
conundrum of the military chaplain, or indeed any churchman, as they
balance the principals of faith with the need to be accepted by the
community to which they minister. More than once Scott submitted
principal for the sake of the community, as he passively assisted soldiers in
the task of killing the enemy. Scott in his memoirs suffered little internal
conflict over these acts as he maintained the sanctity and freedom of the
cause of the British Empire against the godless and militaristic Huns.
Scott’s righteousness in this cause permitted him to maintain this conflict
between good and evil, even as he paradoxically gave a human face to the
Germans with whom he interacted. This curious blend of religion, Imperial
nationalism, and propaganda permits a window into the menalitié of culture
in which the Great War was sustained, and the eyes through which Scott
saw the war.
Scott also wrote of the environment of the war, and from this
perspective alone it is an important document in the study of the social
history of the war. The places in which Scott resided during the war offer
a wide variety of experiences, from GHQ châteaus and dining in the
officers mess, to sleeping in a damp frontline dugout eating from a tin of
vi Introduction – Seeing the Great War
manner? Did they try to avoid interacting with the padre? These are
questions that help bring context, or less charitably academic cynicism, to
Scott’s memoirs. There are certainly some less abstract ways in which
Scott’s experience of the Great War was limited. Scott, for instance, does
not capture the experience of battle, except for following–albeit closely–in
its wake. Scott does not capture the anxious moments between fixing
bayonets and the signal to go “over the top” into the seemingly random
sleet of bullets and shrapnel on the advance across no man’s land. Scott, by
the nature of his position in the Canadian 1st Division, was typically going
to see the Canadian soldier in good spirits after being given at least a
temporary reprieve from the strain of combat. Scott rarely encountered the
grim soldiers who fatalistically waited for their number to come up.
These are merely some of the ideas and questions raised by Canon
Scott’s memoirs; it is by no means all of them. The observations above
reflect the way in which Scott’s vision of the war is seen from the
perspective of a background in social, early modern, and operational
military history. Presumably the publisher hopes that those who read this
book are not simply limited to a pool of historians. However, the choice to
read The Great War as I Saw It is going to be one motivated by the same
curiosity and interest that drives historians; that of understanding the past.
This understanding is derived from the interpretation of the documents and
artifacts left by individuals who had their own eyes through which they saw
events. The hope is that these observations will help the reader in thinking
about questions of perception when reading The Great War as I Saw It, as
well as other recollections of the war, both from the perspective of those
who fought the war and those who read and study the war now.
Aaron Miedema
Kingston, Ontario
May 8, 2009
viii
F. G. S.
ix
Foreword
Little did I think when I first saw him that he could possibly, at his time
of life, bear the rough and tumble of the heaviest fighting in history, and
come through with buoyancy of spirit younger men envied and older men
recognized as the sign and fruit of self-forgetfulness and the inspiration and
cheering of others.
Always in the thick of the fighting, bearing almost a charmed life,
ignoring any suggestion that he should be posted to a softer job “further
back,” he held on to the very end.
The last time I saw him was in a hospital at Etaples badly wounded, yet
cheery as ever–having done his duty nobly.
All the Canadians in France knew him, and his devotion and
x Foreword
fearlessness were known all along the line, and his poems will, I am bold
to prophesy, last longer in the ages to come than most of the histories of the
war.
I feel sure that his book–if anything like himself–will interest and
inspire all who read it.
LLEWELLYN H. GWYNNE.
Bishop of Khartoum,
Deputy Chaplain General
to the C. of E. Chaplains
in France.
xi
Preface
which our glorious men played their part in the deliverance of the world,
I shall consider my task not in vain.
May the ears of Canada never grow deaf to the plea of widows and
orphans and our crippled men for care and support. May the eyes of Canada
never be blind to that glorious light which shines upon our young national
life from the deeds of those “Who counted not their lives dear unto
themselves,” and may the lips of Canada never be dumb to tell to future
generations the tales of heroism which will kindle the imagination and fire
the patriotism of children that are yet unborn.
1
t happened on this wise. It was on the evening of the 31st of July, 1914,
I that I went down to a newspaper office in Quebec to stand amid the
crowd and watch the bulletins which were posted up every now and then,
and to hear the news of the war. One after another the reports were given,
and at last there flashed upon the board the words, “General Hughes offers
a force of twenty thousand men to England in case war is declared against
Germany.” I turned to a friend and said, “That means that I have got to go
to the war.” Cold shivers went up and down my spine as I thought of it, and
my friend replied, “Of course it does not mean that you should go. You
have a parish and duties at home.” I said, “No. I am a Chaplain of the 8th
Royal Rifles. I must volunteer, and if I am accepted, I will go.” It was a
queer sensation, because I had never been to war before and I did not know
how I should be able to stand the shell fire. I had read in books of people
whose minds were keen and brave, but whose hind legs persisted in running
away under the sound of guns. Now I knew that an ordinary officer on
running away under fire would get the sympathy of a large number of
people, who would say, “The poor fellow has got shell shock,” and they
would make allowance for him. But if a chaplain ran away, about six
hundred men would say at once, “We have no more use for religion.” So it
was with very mingled feelings that I contemplated an expedition to the
battle-fields of France, and I trusted that the difficulties of Europe would
be settled without our intervention.
2 How I Got Into The War
However, preparations for war went on. On Sunday, August 2nd, in the
afternoon, I telephoned to Militia Headquarters and gave in my name as a
volunteer for the Great War. When I went to church that evening and told
the wardens that I was off to France, they were much surprised and
disconcerted. When I was preaching at the service and looked down at the
congregation, I had a queer feeling that some mysterious power was
dragging me into a whirlpool, and the ordinary life around me and the
things that were so dear to me had already begun to fade away.
On Tuesday, August the Fourth, war was declared, and the
Expeditionary Force began to be mobilized in earnest. It is like recalling a
horrible dream when I look back to those days of apprehension and dread.
The world seemed suddenly to have gone mad. All civilization appeared to
be tottering. The Japanese Prime Minister, on the night war was declared,
said, “This is the end of Europe.” In a sense his words were true. Already
we see power shifted from nations in Europe to that great Empire which is
in its youth, whose home is in Europe, but whose dominions are scattered
over the wide world, and also to that new Empire of America, which came
in to the war at the end with such determination and high resolve. The
destinies of mankind are now in the hands of the English-speaking nations
and France.
In those hot August days, a camp at Valcartier was prepared in a lovely
valley surrounded by the old granite hills of the Laurentians, the oldest
range of mountains in the world. The Canadian units began to collect, and
the lines of white tents were laid out. On Saturday, August 22nd , at seven in
the morning, the detachment of volunteers from Quebec marched off from
the drill-shed to entrain for Valcartier. Our friends came to see us off and
the band played “The Girl I Left Behind Me,” in the traditional manner. On
our arrival at Valcartier we marched over to the ground assigned to us, and
the men set to work to put up the tents. I hope I am casting no slur upon the
8th Royal Rifles of Quebec, when I say that I think we were all pretty green
in the matter of field experience. The South African veterans amongst us,
both officers and men, saved the situation. But I know that the cooking
arrangements rather “fell down,” and I think a little bread and cheese, very
late at night, was all we had to eat. We were lucky to get that. Little did we
know then of the field kitchens, with their pipes smoking and dinners
cooking, which later on used to follow up the battalions as they moved.
The camp at Valcartier was really a wonderful place. Rapidly the roads
were laid out, the tents were run up, and from west and east and north and
south men poured in. There was activity everywhere. Water was laid on,
and the men got the privilege of taking shower-baths, beside the dusty
roads. Bands played; pipers retired to the woods and practised unearthly
How I Got Into The War 3
music calculated to fire the breast of the Scotsman with a lust for blood.
We had rifle practice on the marvellous ranges. We had sham battles in
which the men engaged so intensely that on one occasion, when the enemy
met, one over-eager soldier belaboured his opponent with the butt end of
his rifle as though he were a real German, and the poor victim, who had not
been taught to say “Kamarad,” suffered grievous wounds and had to be
taken away in an ambulance. Though many gales and tempests had blown
round those ancient mountains, nothing had ever equalled the latent power
in the hearts of the stalwart young Canadians who had come so swiftly and
eagerly at the call of the Empire. It is astonishing how the war spirit grips
one. In Valcartier began that splendid comradeship which spread out to all
the divisions of the Canadian Corps, and which binds those who went to the
great adventure in a brotherhood stronger than has ever been known before.
Valcartier was to me a weird experience. The tents were cold. The
ground was very hard. I got it into my mind that a chaplain should live the
same life as the private soldier, and should avoid all luxuries. So I tried to
sleep at night under my blanket, making a little hole in the ground for my
thigh bone to rest in. After lying awake for some nights under these
conditions, I found that the privates, especially the old soldiers, had learnt
the art of making themselves comfortable and were hunting for straw for
beds. I saw the wisdom of this and got a Wolesley sleeping bag, which I
afterwards lost when my billet was shelled at Ypres. Under this new
arrangement I was able to get a little rest. A kind friend in Quebec provided
fifty oil stoves for the use of the Quebec contingent and so we became quite
comfortable.
The dominating spirit of the camp was General Hughes, who rode
about with his aides-de-camp in great splendour like Napoleon. To me it
seemed that his personality and his despotic rule hung like a dark shadow
over the camp. He was especially interesting and terrible to us chaplains,
because rumour had it that he did not believe in chaplains, and no one could
find out whether he was going to take us or not. The chaplains in
consequence were very polite when inadvertently they found themselves in
his august presence. I was clad in a private’s uniform, which was handed
to me out of a box in the drill-shed the night before the 8th Royal Rifles left
Quebec, and I was most punctilious in the matter of saluting General
Hughes whenever we chanced to meet.
The day after we arrived at the camp was a Sunday. The weather
looked dark and showery, but we were to hold our first church parade, and,
as I was the senior chaplain in rank, I was ordered to take it over. We
assembled about three thousand strong, on a little rise in the ground, and
here the men were formed in a hollow square. Rain was threatening, but
4 How I Got Into The War
perhaps might have held off had it not been for the action of one of the
members of my congregation, who in the rear ranks was overheard by my
son to utter the prayer–“O Lord, have mercy in this hour, and send us now
a gentle shower.” The prayer of the young saint was answered immediately,
the rain came down in torrents, the church parade was called off, and I went
back to my tent to get dry.
Day after day passed and more men poured in. They were a splendid
lot, full of life, energy and keen delight in the great enterprise. Visitors
from the city thronged the camp in the afternoons and evenings. A cinema
was opened, but was brought to a fiery end by the men, who said that the
old man in charge of it never changed his films.
One of the most gruesome experiences I had was taking the funeral of
a young fellow who had committed suicide. I shall never forget the dismal
service which was held, for some reason or other, at ten o’clock at night.
Rain was falling, and we marched off into the woods by the light of two
smoky lanterns to the place selected as a military cemetery. To add to the
weirdness of the scene two pipers played a dirge. In the dim light of the
lanterns, with the dropping rain over head and the dripping trees around us,
we laid the poor boy to rest. The whole scene made a lasting impression on
those who were present.
Meanwhile the camp extended and improvements were made, and
many changes occurred in the disposition of the units. At one time the
Quebec men were joined with a Montreal unit, then they were taken and
joined with a New Brunswick detachment and formed into a battalion. Of
course we grew more military, and I had assigned to me a batman whom I
shall call Stephenson. I selected him because of his piety–he was a
theological student from Ontario. I found afterwards that it is unwise to
select batmen for their piety. Stephenson was a failure as a batman. When
some duty had been neglected by him and I was on the point of giving vent
to that spirit of turbulent anger, which I soon found was one of the natural
and necessary equipments of an officer, he would say, “Would you like me
to recite Browning’s ‘Prospice’?” What could the enraged Saul do on such
occasions but forgive, throw down the javelin and listen to the music of the
harping David? Stephenson was with me till I left Salisbury Plain for
France. He nearly exterminated me once by setting a stone waterbottle to
heat on my stove without unscrewing the stopper. I arrived in my tent quite
late and seeing the thing on the stove quickly unscrewed it. The steam blew
out with terrific force and filled the tent. A moment or two more and the
bottle would have burst with disastrous consequences. When I told
Stephenson of the enormity of his offence and that he might have been the
cause of my death, and would have sent me to the grave covered with
How I Got Into The War 5
into the valley were the rows of white tents with the dark mountains
enclosing them around. We stood outside the farmhouse used as
headquarters, which overlooked the camp. When I asked the Colonel
whether, now that I was separated from my men, I ought to leave my parish
and go, he said to me, “Look at those lines of tents and think of the men in
them. How many of those men will ever come back? The best expert
opinion reckons that this war will last at least two years. The wastage of
human life in war is tremendous. The battalions have to be filled and
refilled again and again. Don’t decide in a hurry, but think over what I have
told you.” On the next evening when I returned from Quebec, I went to the
Colonel and said, “I have thought the matter over and I am going.”
The time was now drawing near for our departure and at last word was
sent round that General Hughes wished to meet all the chaplains on the
verandah of his bungalow. The time set was the cheerful hour of five a.m.
I lay awake all night with a loud ticking alarm clock beside me, till about
half an hour before the wretched thing was to go off. With great expedition
I rose and shaved and making myself as smart as possible in the private’s
uniform, hurried off to the General’s camp home. There the other chaplains
were assembled, about twenty-five or thirty in all. We all felt very sleepy
and very chilly as we waited with expectancy the utterance which was
going to seal our fate. The General soon appeared in all the magnificence
and power of his position. We rose and saluted. When he metaphorically
told us to “stand easy,” we all sat down. I do not know what the feelings of
the others were, but I had an impression that we were rather an awkward
squad, neither fish, flesh, nor fowl. The General gave us a heart to heart
talk. He told us he was going to send us with “the boys.” From his manner
I inferred that he looked upon us a kind of auxiliary and quite dispensable
sanitary section. I gathered that he did not want us to be very exacting as
to the performance of religious duties by the men. Rather we were to go in
and out amongst them, make friends of them and cheer them on their way.
Above all we were to remember that because a man said “Damn,” it did not
mean necessarily that he was going to hell. At the conclusion of the
address, we were allowed to ask questions, and one of our number
unadvisedly asked if he would be allowed to carry a revolver. “No,” said
Sam with great firmness, “take a bottle of castor oil.” We didn’t dare to be
amused at the incident in the presence of the Chief, but we had a good
laugh over it when we got back to our tents.
Two Sundays before we left, the most remarkable church parade in the
history of the division was held, at which fully fifteen thousand men were
present. The Senior Chaplain asked me to preach. A large platform had
been erected, on which the chaplains stood, and on the platform also were
8 How I Got Into The War
two signallers, whose duty it was to signal to the battalions and bands the
numbers of the hymns. On the chairs in front of the platform were seated
the Duke and Duchess of Connaught, the Princess Patricia, Sir Robert
Borden, and other notables. Beyond them were gathered the men in
battalions. At one side were the massed bands. It was a wonderful sight.
The sun was shining. Autumn tints coloured the maple trees on the sides of
the ancient mountains. Here was Canada quickening into national life and
girding on the sword to take her place among the independent nations of the
world. It had been my privilege, fifteen years before, to preach at the
farewell service in Quebec Cathedral for the Canadian Contingent going to
the South African war. It seemed to me then that never again should I have
such an experience. Yet on that occasion there were only a thousand men
present, and here were fifteen times that number. At that time the war was
with a small and half-civilized nation in Africa, now the war was with the
foremost nations of Europe. On that occasion I used the second personal
pronoun “you,” now I was privileged to use the first personal pronoun
“we.” Almost to the last I did not know what text to choose and trusted to
the inspiration of the moment what to say. My mind was confused with the
vastness of the outlook. At last the words came to me which are the very
foundation stone of human endeavour and human progress, “He that loseth
his life for My sake shall find it.” I do not know exactly what I said, and I
do not suppose it mattered much, for it was hard to make oneself heard. I
was content if the words of the text alone were audible. We sang that great
hymn, “O God our help in ages past,” which came into such prominence as
an imperial anthem during the war. As we sang the words–
I looked at the everlasting mountains around us, where the sound of our
worship died away, and thought how they had watched and waited for this
day to come, and how, in the ages that were to dawn upon Canadian life
and expansion, they would stand as monuments of the consecration of
Canada to the service of mankind.
Things began to move rapidly now. People from town told us that
already a fleet of liners was waiting in the harbour, ready to carry overseas
the thirty-three thousand men of the Canadian contingent.
At last the eventful day of our departure arrived. On September 28th,
with several other units, the 14th Battalion, to which I had been attached,
marched off to the entraining point. I took one last look at the great camp
which had now become a place of such absorbing interest and I wondered
How I Got Into The War 9
if I should ever see again that huge amphitheatre with its encompassing
mountain witnesses. The men were in high spirits and good humour
prevailed.
We saw the three companies of Engineers moving off, each followed
by those mysterious pontoons which followed them wherever they went and
suggested the bridging of the Rhine and our advance to Berlin. Someone
called out, “What are those boats?” and a voice replied, “That’s the
Canadian Navy.” We had a pleasant trip in the train to Quebec, enlivened
by jokes and songs. On our arrival at the docks, we were taken to the
custom-house wharf and marched on board the fine Cunard liner
“Andania,” which now rests, her troubles over, at the bottom of the Irish
Sea. On the vessel, besides half of the 14th Battalion, there was the 16th
(Canadian Scottish) Battalion, chiefly from Vancouver, and the Signal
Company. Thus we had a ship full to overflowing of some of the noblest
young fellows to whom the world has given birth. So ended our war
experience in Valcartier Camp.
Nearly five years passed before I saw that sacred spot again. It was in
August 1919. The war was ended, peace had been signed, and the great
force of brother knights had been dispersed. Little crosses by the highways
and byways of France and Belgium now marked the resting-place of
thousands of those whose eager hearts took flame among these autumn
hills. As I motored past the deserted camp after sunset, my heart thrilled
with strange memories and the sense of an abiding presence of something
weird and ghostly. Here were the old roads, there were the vacant hutments.
Here were the worn paths across the fields where the men had gone. The
evening breeze whispered fitfully across the untrodden grass and one by
one the strong mountains, as though fixing themselves more firmly in iron
resolve, cast off the radiant hues of evening and stood out black and grim
against the starlit sky.
10
past the Custom House. We saw the St. Charles Valley and the Beauport
shore, but ever our eyes turned to the grim outline of Cape Diamond and
the city set upon the hill. Beside me on the upper deck stood a young
officer. We were talking together and wondering if we should ever see that
rock again. He never did. He and his only brother were killed in the war.
We reached the end of the Island of Orleans, and looking back saw a deeper
crimson flood the sky, till the purple mists of evening hid Quebec from our
view.
We had a lovely sail down the St. Lawrence in superb weather and
three days later entered the great harbour of Gaspé Basin. Here the green
arms of the hills encompassed us, as though Canada were reluctant to let us
go. Gaspé Basin has historical memories for Canada, for it was there that
Wolfe assembled his fleet on his voyage to the capture of Quebec. We lay
at anchor all day, and at night the moon came up and flooded the great
water with light, against which stood out the black outline of thirty ships,
so full of eager and vigorous life. About midnight I went on deck to
contemplate the scene. The night was calm and still. The vessels lay dark
and silent with all lights screened. The effect was one of lonely grandeur.
What was it going to mean to us? What did fate hold in store? Among those
hills, the outline of which I could now but faintly see, were the lakes and
salmon rivers in the heart of the great forests which make our Canadian
wild life so fascinating. We were being torn from that life and sent
headlong into the seething militarism of a decadent European feudalism. I
was leaning on the rail looking at the track of moonlight, when a young lad
came up to me and said, “Excuse me, Sir, but may I talk to you for a while?
It is such a weird sight that it has got on my nerves.” He was a young boy
of seventeen who had come from Vancouver. Many times afterwards I met
him in France and Belgium, when big things were being done in the war,
and we talked together over that night in Gaspé Basin and the strange
thoughts that crowded upon us then. He was not the only one in that great
fleet of transports who felt the significance of the enterprise.
On Saturday afternoon we resumed our journey and steamed out of the
narrows. Outside the bay the ships formed into a column of three abreast,
making a line nine miles in length. Several cruisers, and later a battleship
and battle cruiser, mounted guard over the expedition. Off Cape Race, the
steamship “Florizel” joined us, bringing the Newfoundland troops. Our
family party was now complete.
It was indeed a family party. On every ship we had friends. It seemed
as if Canada herself were steaming across the ocean. Day after day, in
perfect weather, keeping our relative positions in absolute order, we sped
over the deep. There was none of the usual sense of loneliness which
12 The Voyage To England
characterizes the ocean voyage. We looked at the line of vessels and we felt
that one spirit and one determination quickened the whole fleet into
individual life.
On board the “Andania” the spirit of the men was excellent. There was
physical drill daily to keep them fit. There was the gymnasium for the
officers. We had boxing matches for all, and sword dances also for the
Highlanders. In the early morning at five-thirty, the pipers used to play
reveille down the passages. Not being a Scotsman, the music always woke
me up. At such moments I considered it my duty to try to understand the
music of the pipes. But in the early hours of the morning I made what I
thought were discoveries. First I found out that all pipe melodies have the
same bass. Secondly I found out that all pipe melodies have the same treble.
On one occasion the pipers left the security of the Highlanders’ quarters
and invaded the precincts of the 14th Battalion, who retaliated by turning
the hose on them. A genuine battle between the contending factions was
only averted by the diplomacy of the O.C.
I had made friends with the wireless operators on board the ship, and
every night I used to go up to their cabin on the upper deck and they would
give me reports of the news which had been flashed out to the leading
cruiser. They told me of the continued German successes and of the fall of
Antwerp. The news was not calculated to act as a soothing nightcap before
going to bed. I was sworn to secrecy and so I did not let the men know what
was happening at the front. I used to look round at the bright faces of the
young officers in the saloon and think of all that those young fellows might
have to endure before the world was saved. It gave everyone on board a
special sacredness in my eyes, and one felt strangely inadequate and
unworthy to be with them.
The men lived below decks and some of them were packed in pretty
tightly. Had the weather been rough there would have been a good deal of
suffering. During the voyage our supply of flour gave out, but as we had a
lot of wheat on board, the men were set to grind it in a coffee mill. More
than fifty per cent of the men, I found, were members of the Church of
England, and so I determined to have a celebration of Holy Communion,
for all who cared to attend, at five o’clock every morning. I always had a
certain number present, and very delightful were these services at that early
hour. Outside on deck we could hear the tramp and orders of those engaged
in physical drill, and inside the saloon where I had arranged the altar there
knelt a small gathering of young fellows from various parts of Canada, who
were pleased to find that the old Church was going with them on their
strange pilgrimage. The well-known hymn–
The Voyage To England 13
had never appealed to me much in the past, but it took on a new meaning
at our Sunday church parade, for we all felt that we were a rather
vulnerable body in any determined attack that might be made upon us by
the German navy. Now and then vessels would be sighted on the horizon
and there was always much excitement and speculation as to what they
might be. We could see the cruisers making off in the direction of the
strangers and taking a survey of the ocean at long range.
One day a man on the “Royal George” fell overboard, and a boat was
instantly lowered to pick him up. The whole fleet came to a standstill and
all our glasses were turned towards the scene of rescue. Often in our battles
when we saw the hideous slaughter of human beings, I have thought of the
care for the individual life which stopped that great fleet in order to save
one man.
Our destination, of course, was not known to us. Some thought we
might go directly to France, others that we should land in England. When
at last, skirting the south coast of Ireland, we got into the English Channel,
we felt more than ever the reality of our adventure. I believe we were
destined for Southampton; but rumour had it that a German submarine was
waiting for us in the Channel, so we turned into the harbour of Plymouth.
It was night when we arrived. A low cloud and mist hung over the dark
choppy waves of the Channel. From the forts at Plymouth and from vessels
in the harbour, long searchlights moved like the fingers of a great ghostly
hand that longed to clutch at something. We saw the small patrol boats
darting about in all directions and we felt with a secret thrill that we had got
into that part of the world which was at war. We arrived at Plymouth on the
evening of October 14th, our voyage having lasted more than a fortnight.
Surely no expedition, ancient or modern, save that perhaps which
Columbus led towards the undiscovered continent of his dreams, was ever
fraught with greater significance to the world at large. We are still too close
to the event to be able to measure its true import. Its real meaning was that
the American continent with all its huge resources, its potential value in the
ages to come, had entered upon the sphere of world politics, and ultimately
would hold in its hands the sceptre of world dominion. Even the British
thought that we had come merely to assist the Mother Country in her
difficulties. Those who were at the helm in Canada, however, knew that we
were not fighting for the security of the Mother Country only, but for the
security of Canadian nationalism itself. Whatever the ages hold in store for
us in this great and rich Dominion which stretches from sea to sea and from
14 The Voyage To England
the river unto the world’s end, depended upon our coming out victors in the
great European struggle.
15
n Sunday the 18th, our men entrained and travelled to Patney, and from
O thence marched to Westdown South, Salisbury Plain. There tents had
been prepared and we settled down to life in our new English home. At first
the situation was very pleasant. Around us on all sides spread the lines of
tents. The weather was delightful. A ride over the mysterious plain was
something never to be forgotten. The little villages around were lovely and
quaint. The old town of Salisbury, with its wonderful Cathedral and
memories of old England, threw the glamour of romance and chivalry over
the new soldiers in the new crusade. But winter drew on, and such a winter
it was. The rains descended, the floods came and the storms beat upon our
tents, and the tents which were old and thin allowed a fine sprinkling of
moisture to fall upon our faces. The green sward was soon trampled into
deep and clinging mud. There was nothing for the men to do. Ammunition
was short, there was little rifle practice. The weather was so bad that a
route march meant a lot of wet soldiers with nowhere to dry their clothes
upon their return. In some places the mud went over my long rubber boots.
The gales of heaven swept over the plain unimpeded. Tents were blown
down. On one particularly gloomy night, I met a chaplain friend of mine in
the big Y.M.C.A. marquee. I said to him, “For goodness sake let us do
something for the men. Let us have a sing-song.” He agreed, and we stood
in the middle of the marquee with our backs to the pole and began to sing
a hymn. I do not know what it was. I started the air and was going on so
16 On Salisbury Plain
beautifully that the men were beginning to be attracted and were coming
around us. Suddenly my friend struck in with a high tenor note. Hardly had
the sound gone forth when, like the fall of the walls of Jericho at the sound
of Joshua’s trumpets, a mighty gale struck the building, and with a ripping
sound the whole thing collapsed. In the rain and darkness we rushed to the
assistance of the attendants and extinguished the lamps, which had been
upset, while the men made their way to the counters and put the cigarettes
and other dainties into their pockets, lest they should get wet. On another
occasion, the Paymaster’s tent blew away as he was paying off the
battalion. Five shilling notes flew over the plain like white birds over the
sea. The men quickly chased them and gathered them up, and on finding
them stained with mud thought it unnecessary to return them. On another
night the huge marquee where Harrod’s ran the mess for a large number of
officers, blew down just as we were going to dinner, and we had to forage
in the various canteens for tinned salmon and packages of biscuits.
Still, in spite of all, the spirits of our men never failed. One night when
a heavy rain had turned every hollow into a lake, and every gully into a
rushing cataract, I went down to some tents on a lower level than my own.
I waded through water nearly a foot deep and came to a tent from which I
saw a faint light emerging. I looked inside and there with their backs to the
pole stood some stalwart young Canadians. On an island in the tent, was a
pile of blankets, on which burnt a solitary candle. “Hello, boys, how are
you getting on?” “Fine, Sir, fine,” was their ready response. “Well, boys,
keep that spirit up,” I said, “and we’ll win the war.”
At first we had no “wet” canteen where beer could be procured. The
inns in the villages around became sources of great attraction to the men,
and the publicans did their best to make what they could out of the
well-paid Canadian troops. The maintenance of discipline under such
circumstances was difficult. We were a civilian army, and our men had
come over to do a gigantic task. Everyone knew that, when the hour for
performance came, they would be ready, but till that hour came they were
intolerant of restraint.
The English people did not understand us, and many of our men
certainly gave them good reason to be doubtful. Rumour had it at one time
that we were going to be taken out of the mud and quartered in Exeter.
Then the rumour was that the Exeter people said, “If the Canadians are sent
here, we’ll all leave the town.” I did not mind, I told the men I would make
my billet in the Bishop’s Palace.
The C.O. of one of the battalions was tempted to do what David did
with such disastrous results, namely number the people. He called the roll
of his battalion and found that four hundred and fifty men were absent
On Salisbury Plain 17
without leave. But as I have said, we all knew that when the moment for big
things came, every man would be at his post and would do his bit.
Just before Christmas the 3rd Brigade were moved into huts at Lark
Hill. They were certainly an improvement upon the tents, but they were
draughty and leaky. From my window I could see, on the few occasions
when the weather permitted it, the weird and ancient circles of Stonehenge.
The calm repose of those huge stones, which had watched unmoved the
passing of human epochs, brought peace to the mind. They called to
memory the lines;–
praise is too high. The same is true of their conduct all through the war.
Our life on the Plain was certainly a puzzle to us. Why were we kept
there? When were we going to leave? Were we not wanted in France?
These were the questions we asked one another. I met an Imperial officer
one day, who had just returned from the front. I asked him when we were
going to train for the trenches. “Why” he said, “what better training could
you have than you are getting here? If you can stand the life here, you can
stand the life in France.” I think he was right. That strange experience was
just what we needed to inure us to hardship, and it left a stamp of resolution
and efficiency on the First Division which it never lost.
19
owards the end of January, rumors became more frequent that our
T departure was close at hand, and we could see signs of the coming
movement in many quarters. The disposition of the chaplains was still a
matter of uncertainty. At last we were informed that only five chaplains
were to proceed with the troops to France. This was the original number
which the War Office had told us to bring from Canada. The news fell like
a thunderbolt upon us, and we at once determined to get the order changed.
The Senior Roman Catholic Chaplain and myself, by permission of the
General, made a special journey to the War Office. The Chaplain-General
received us, if not coldly, at least austerely. We told him that we had come
from Canada to be with the men and did not want to leave them. He replied
by saying that the Canadians had been ordered by Lord Kitchener to bring
only five chaplains with them, and they had brought thirty-one. He said,
looking at me, “That is not military discipline; we must obey orders.” I
explained to him that since the Canadian Government was paying the
chaplains the people thought it did not matter how many we had. Even this
did not seem to convince him. “Besides,” he said, “they tell me that of all
the troops in England the Canadians are the most disorderly and
undisciplined, and they have got thirty-one chaplains.” “But,” I replied,
“you ought to see what they would have been like, if we had brought only
five.” We succeeded in our mission in so far that he promised to speak to
Lord Kitchener that afternoon and see if the wild Canadians could not take
20 Off To France
more chaplains with them to France than were allotted to British Divisions.
The result was that eleven of our chaplains were to be sent.
Early in February we were told that our Division was to go in a few
days. In spite of the mud and discomfort we had taken root in Salisbury
Plain. I remember looking with affection one night at the Cathedral bathed
in moonlight, and at the quaint streets of the dear old town, over which
hung the shadow of war. Could it be possible that England was about to be
crushed under the heel of a foreign tyrant? If such were to be her fate, death
on the battlefield would be easy to bear. What Briton could endure to live
under the yoke or by the permission of a vulgar German autocrat?
On entering the mess one evening I was horrified to read in the orders
that Canon Scott was to report immediately for duty to No. 2 General
Hospital. It was a great blow to be torn from the men of the fighting forces.
I at once began to think out a plan of campaign. I went over to the G.O.C.
of my brigade, and told him that I was to report to No. 2 General Hospital.
I said, with perfect truth, that I did not know where No. 2 General Hospital
was, but I had determined to begin the hunt for it in France. I asked him if
he would take me across with the Headquarters Staff, so that I might begin
my search at the front. He had a twinkle in his eye as he told me that if I
could get on board the transport, he would make no objection. I was
delighted with the prospect of going over with the men.
When the time came to pack up, I was overwhelmed by the number of
things that I had accumulated during the winter. I disposed of a lot of
useless camp furniture, such as folding tables and collapsible chairs, and
my faithful friend the oil stove. With a well-filled Wolseley kit-bag and a
number of haversacks bursting with their contents, I was ready for the
journey. On February 11th, on a lovely afternoon, I started off with the
Headquarters Staff. We arrived at Avonmouth and made our way to the
docks. It was delightful to think that I was going with the men. I had no
batman and no real standing with the unit with which I was travelling.
However, I did not let this worry me. I got a friend to carry my kit-bag, and
then covering myself with haversacks, till I looked, as the men said, like a
Christmas tree, I made my way to the ship with a broad grin of satisfaction
on my face. As I went up the gangway so attired and looking exceedingly
pleased with myself, my appearance excited the suspicion of the officer in
command of the ship, who was watching the troops come on board.
Mistaking the cause of my good spirits, he called a captain to him and said,
“There is an officer coming on board who is drunk; go and ask him who he
is.” The captain accordingly came over and greeting me pleasantly said,
“How do you do, Sir?” “Very well, thank you,” I replied, smiling all the
more. I was afraid he had come up to send me back. Having been a
Off To France 21
modern house. The next morning I went out to find a billet for myself. I
called on the Mayor and Mayoress, a nice old couple who not only gave me
a comfortable room in their house, but insisted upon my accepting it free
of charge. They also gave me breakfast in the kitchen downstairs. I was
delighted to be so well housed and was going on my way rejoicing when I
met an officer who told me that the Brigade Major wanted to see me in a
hurry. I went over to his office and was addressed by him in a very military
manner. He wanted to know why I was there and asked what unit I was
attached to. I told him No. 2 General Hospital. He said, “Where is it?” “I
don’t know,” I replied, “I came over to France to look for it.” He said, “It
is at Lavington on Salisbury Plain,” and added, “You will have to report to
General Alderson and get some attachment till the hospital comes over.”
His manner was so cold and businesslike that it was quite unnerving and I
began to realize more than ever that I was in the Army. Accordingly that
afternoon I walked over to the General’s Headquarters, at Strazeele, some
five miles away, and he attached me to the Brigade until my unit should
come to France. I never knew when it did come to France, for I never
asked. “Sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof” was my motto. I held on
to my job at the front. But the threat which the Brigadier held over me, that
if I went into the trenches or anywhere out of his immediate ken I should
be sent back to No. 2 General Hospital, was something which weighed
upon my spirits very heavily at times, and caused me to acquire great
adroitness in the art of dodging. In fact, I made up my mind that three
things had to be avoided if I wished to live through the campaign–sentries,
cesspools, and generals. They were all sources of special danger, as
everyone who has been at the front can testify. Over and over again on my
rambles in the dark, nothing has saved me from being stuck by a sentry but
the white gleam of my clerical collar, which on this account I had
frequently thought of painting with luminous paint. One night I stepped into
a cesspool and had to sit on a chair while my batman pumped water over
me almost as ill-savoured as the pool itself. On another occasion, when,
against orders, I was going into the trenches in Ploegsteert, I saw the
General and his staff coming down the road. Quick as thought, I cantered
my horse into an orchard behind a farm house, where there was a battery
of Imperials. The men were surprised, not to say alarmed, at the sudden
appearance of a chaplain in their midst. When I told them, however, that I
was dodging a general, they received me with the utmost kindness and
sympathy. They had often done the same themselves, and offered me some
light refreshments.
On the following Sunday we had our first church parade in the war
zone. We were delighted during the service to hear in the distance the
Off To France 23
sound of guns and shells. As the war went on we preferred church parades
when we could not hear guns and shells.
After a brief stay in Caestre the whole brigade marched off to
Armentieres. Near Flêtre, the Army Commander, General Smith-Dorrien,
stood by the roadside and took the salute as we passed. I went with the 15th
Battalion, and, as I told the men, being a Canon, marched with the machine
gun section. We went by the delightful old town of Bailleul. The fields
were green. The hedges were beginning to show signs of spring life. The
little villages were quaint and picturesque, but the pavé road was rough and
tiring. Bailleul made a delightful break in the journey. The old Spanish
town hall, with its tower, the fine old church and spire and the houses
around the Grande Place, will always live in one’s memory. The place is all
a ruin now, but then it formed a pleasant home and meeting place for
friends from many parts. We skirted the borders of Belgium and arrived at
Armentieres in the afternoon. The place had been shelled and was partly
deserted, but was still a populous town. I made my home with the Brigade
transport in a large school. In the courtyard our horses and mules were
picketed. I had never heard mules bray before and I had a good sample next
morning of what they can do, for with the buildings around them the sound
had an added force. The streets of Armentieres were well laid out and some
of the private residences were very fine. It is astonishing how our camp life
at Salisbury had made us love cities. Armentieres has since been destroyed
and its church ruined. Many of us have pleasant memories of the town, and
the cemetery there is the resting place of numbers of brave Canadians.
I ran across an imperial Chaplain there, whom I had met in England. He
told me he had a sad duty to perform that night. It was to prepare for death
three men who were to be shot at daybreak. He felt it very keenly, and I
afterwards found from experience how bitter the duty was.
We were brought to Armentieres in order to be put into the trenches
with some of the British units for instruction. On Wednesday evening,
February the 24th, the men were marched off to the trenches for the first
time and I went with a company of the 15th Battalion, who were to be
attached to the Durham Light Infantry. I was warned to keep myself in the
background as it was said that the chaplains were not allowed in the front
line. The trenches were at Houplines to the east of Armentieres. We
marched down the streets till we came to the edge of the town and there a
guide met us and we went in single file across the field. We could see the
German flare-lights and could hear the crack of rifles. It was intensely
interesting, and the mystery of the war seemed to clear as we came nearer
to the scene of action. The men went down into the narrow trench and I
followed. I was welcomed by a very nice young captain whom I never
24 Off To France
heard of again till I saw the cross that marked his grave in the Salient. The
trenches in those days were not what they afterwards became. Double rows
of sandbags built like a wall were considered an adequate protection. I do
not think there was any real parados. The dugouts were on a level with the
trench and were roofed with pieces of corrugated iron covered with two
layers of sandbags. They were a strange contrast to the dugouts thirty feet
deep, lined with wood, which we afterwards made for our trench homes.
I was immensely pleased at having at last got into the front line. Even
if I were sent out I had at least seen the trenches. The captain brought me
to his tiny dugout and told me that he and I could squeeze in there together
for the night. He then asked me if I should like to see the trench, and took
me with him on his rounds. By this time it was dark and rainy and very
muddy. As we were going along the trench a tall officer, followed by
another met us and exchanged a word with the captain. They then came up
to me and the first one peered at me in the darkness and said in abrupt
military fashion, “Who are you?” I thought my last hour had come, or at
least I was going to be sent back. I told him I was a chaplain with the
Canadians. “Did you come over with the men?” “Yes,” I said. “Capital,” he
replied, “Won’t you come and have lunch with me tomorrow?” “Where do
you live?” I said. The other officer came up to my rescue at this moment
and said, “The General’s Headquarters are in such and such a place in
Armentieres,” “Good Heavens,” I whispered in a low tone to the officer, “Is
he a general?” “Yes” he said. “I hope my deportment was all that it ought
to have been in the presence of a general,” I replied. “It was excellent,
Padré,” he said, with a laugh. So I arranged to go and have luncheon with
him two days afterwards, for I was to spend forty-eight hours in the
trenches. The first officer turned out to be General Congreve, V.C.,* a most
gallant man. He told me at luncheon that if he could press a button and
blow the whole German nation into the air he would do it. I felt a little bit
shocked then, because I did not know the Germans as I afterwards did. I
spent nearly four years at the front hunting for that button.
The captain and I had very little room to move about in his dugout. I
was very much impressed with the unostentatious way in which he said, “If
you want to say your prayers, Padré, you can kneel over in that corner first,
because there is only room for one at a time. I will say mine
afterwards”–and he did. He was a Roman Catholic, and had lived in India,
and was a very fine type of man. When I read the words two years
afterwards on a cross in a cemetery near Poperinghe, “Of your charity pray
*
Victoria Cross.
Off To France 25
for the soul of Major Harter, M.C.,” I did it gladly and devoutly.
I had brought with me in a small pyx, the Blessed Sacrament, and the
next morning I gave Communion to a number of the men. One young
officer, a boy of eighteen, who had just left school to come to the front,
asked me to have the service in his dugout. The men came in three or four
at a time and knelt on the muddy floor. Every now and then we could hear
the crack of a bullet overhead striking the sandbags. The officer was
afterwards killed, and the great promise of his life was not fulfilled in this
world.
There was a great deal of rifle fire in the trenches in those days. The
captain told me the Canadians were adepts in getting rid of their
ammunition and kept firing all night long. Further down the line were the
“Queen’s Own Westminsters.” They were a splendid body of young men
and received us very kindly. On my way over to them the next morning, I
found in a lonely part of a trench a man who had taken off his shirt and was
examining the seams of it with interest. I knew he was hunting for one of
those insects which afterwards played no small part in the general
discomfort of the Great War, and I thought it would be a good opportunity
to learn privately what they looked like. So I took a magnifying glass out
of my pocket and said, “Well, my boy, let me have a look for I too am
interested in botany.” He pointed to a seam in his shirt and said, “There,
Sir, there is one.” I was just going to examine it under the glass when,
crack! a bullet hit the sandbags near-by, and he told me the trench was
enfiladed. I said, “My dear boy, I think I will postpone this scientific
research until we get to safer quarters, for if I am knocked out, the first
question my congregation will ask will be, “What was our beloved pastor
doing when he was hit?” If they hear that I was hunting in a man’s shirt for
one of these insects, they will not think it a worthy ending to my life.” He
grinned, put on his shirt, and moved down the trench.
That afternoon a good many shells passed over our heads and of course
the novelty of the thing made it most interesting. After a war experience of
nearly four years, one is almost ashamed to look back upon those early days
which were like war in a nursery. The hideous thing was then only in its
infancy. Poison gas, liquid fire, trench mortars, hand grenades, machine
guns, (except a very few) and tanks were then unknown. The human mind
had not then made, as it afterward did, the sole object of its energy the
destruction of human life. Yet with a deepening knowledge of the
instruments of death has come, I trust, a more revolting sense of the horrors
and futility of war. The romance and chivalry of the profession of arms has
gone forever. Let us hope that in the years to come the human mind will
bend all its energies to right the wrongs and avert the contentions that result
26 Off To France
in bloodshed.
On the following Sunday, we had a church parade in the square in
Armentieres. Two or three men watched the sky with field glasses lest an
enemy plane should come up. We had now finished our instruction in
trench warfare and were going to take over part of the front line. We were
marched off one afternoon to the village of Bac St. Maur, where we rested
for the night. I had dinner with the officers of the 15th Battalion, and went
out afterwards to a big factory at the end of the straggling brick village to
see my son, whose battalion was quartered there. On returning I found the
night was very dark, and every door and window in the long rows of houses
was tightly closed. No lights were allowed in the town. Once more my
faculty for losing my way asserted itself, and I could not tell which was the
house where I had dined. It was to be my billet for the night. The whole
place was silent, and I wandered up and down the long street. I met a few
soldiers and when I asked if they could tell me where I had had dinner they
naturally began to eye me with suspicion. At the same time it was no
laughing matter. I had had a long walk in the afternoon and had the
prospect of another on the following day. I was separated from my kit-bag
and my safety razor, which always, at the front, constituted my home, and
the night was beginning to get cold. Besides it was more or less damaging
to one’s character as a chaplain to be found wandering aimlessly about the
streets at night asking where you had dined. My habits were not as well
known to the men then as they were after a few years of war. In despair I
went down the road behind the village, and there to my joy I saw a friendly
light emerging from the door of a coach house. I went up to it and entered
and found to my relief the guard of the 16th Battalion. They had a big fire
in the chimney-place, and were smoking and making tea. It was then about
one o’clock, and they were both surprised and amused at my plight, but
gave me a very glad welcome and offered me a bed and blankets on the
floor. I was just going to accept them when I asked if the blankets were
“crummy.”* The men burst out laughing. “You bet your life they are, Sir,”
they cried. “Well, boys,” I said, “I think that I prefer to spend the night
walking about the village and trying to compose a poem.” Once more I
made my way down the dark street, examining closely every door and
window. At last I found a crack of light which came from one of the
houses. I knocked at the door and it was opened by an officer from Quebec,
who had been engaged with some others in a quiet game of cards. He was
amused at my homeless condition and kindly took me in and gave me a
*
Lice-infested.
Off To France 27
comfortable bed in his own room. On the next morning of course I was
“ragged” tremendously on my disappearance during the night.
The next day we marched off to the village of Sailly-sur-Lys, which
was to become our rear headquarters during our occupation of the trenches.
The little place had been damaged by shells, but every available house was
occupied. Our battalion moved up the country road and was dispersed
among the farm houses and barns in the neighbourhood.
I made my home with some officers in a small and dirty farm house.
The novelty of the situation, however, gave it a certain charm for the time.
We were crowded into two or three little rooms and lay on piles of straw.
We were short of rations, but each officer contributed something from his
private store. I had a few articles of tinned food with me and they proved
to be of use. From that moment I determined never to be without a tin of
bully beef in my haversack, and I formed the bully beef habit in the
trenches which lasted till the end and always amused the men. The general
cesspool and manure heap of the farm was, as usual, in the midst of the
buildings, and was particularly unsavoury. A cow waded through it and the
family hens fattened on it. Opposite our window in one of the buildings
dwelt an enormous sow with a large litter of young ones. When any of the
ladies of the family went to throw refuse on the manure heap, the old sow,
driven by the pangs of hunger, would stand on her hind legs and poke her
huge face out over the half door of her prison appealing in pig language for
some of the discarded dainties. Often nothing would stop her squeals but
a smart slap on her fat cheeks by the lady’s tender hand. In the hayloft of
the barn the men were quartered. Their candles made the place an
exceedingly dangerous abode. There was only one small hole down which
they could escape in case of fire. It is a wonder we did not have more fires
in our billets than we did.
The trenches assigned to our Brigade were to the right of Fleurbaix.
They were poorly constructed, but as the time went on were greatly
improved by the labours of our men. The Brigadier assigned to me for my
personal use a tiny mud-plastered cottage with thatched roof and a little
garden in front. It was in the Rue du Bois, a road which ran parallel with
the trenches about 800 yards behind them. I was very proud to have a home
all to myself, and chalked on the door the word “Chaplain.” In one room
two piles of straw not only gave me a bed for myself but enabled me to give
hospitality to any officer who needed a billet. Another room I fitted up as
a chapel. An old box covered with the silk Union Jack and white cloth and
adorned with two candles and cross served as an altar. There were no chairs
to be had, but the plain white walls were not unsuited to the purpose to
which the room was dedicated.
28 Off To France
In this chapel I held several services. It was a fine sight to see a group
of tall and stalwart young Highlanders present. Their heads almost reached
to the low ceiling, and when they sang, the little building trembled with the
sound.
Every night when there were any men to be buried, I used to receive
notice from the front line, and after dark I would set out preceded by my
batman, Murdoch MacDonald, a proper young Highlander, carrying a rifle
with fixed bayonet on his shoulder. It made one feel very proud to go off
down the dark road so attended. When we got to the place of burial I would
hold a short service over the open graves in which the bodies were laid to
rest. Our casualties were light then, but in those days we had not become
accustomed to the loss of comrades and so we felt the toll of death very
bitterly.
It made a great difference to me to have a house of my own. Previously
I had found it most difficult to get any place in which to lay my head. On
one occasion, I had obtained permission from a kind-hearted farmer’s wife
to rent one corner of the kitchen in her two-roomed house. It was on a
Saturday night and when the family had retired to their room I spread my
sleeping bag in the corner and went to bed. I got up when the family had
gone to Mass in the morning. All through the day the kitchen was crowded,
and I saw that if I went to bed that night I should not have the opportunity
of getting up again until the family went to Mass on the following Sunday.
So I paid the woman five francs for my lodging and started out in pursuit
of another. I managed to find a room in another little farmhouse, somewhat
larger and cleaner. My room was a small one and had an earth floor. The
ceiling was so low that I could touch the beams with my head when I stood
on my toes. But in it were two enormous double beds, a table and a chair.
What more could one want? A large cupboard full of straw furnished a
billet for Murdoch and he was allowed to do my simple cooking on the
family stove.
Small as my billet was, I was able on one occasion to take in and house
three officers of the Leicesters, who arrived one night in preparation for the
battle of Neuve Chapelle. I also stowed away a sergeant in the cupboard
with Murdoch. My three guests were very hungry and very tired and
enjoyed a good sleep in the ponderous beds. I saw a photo of one of the
lads afterwards in the Roll of Honour page of the “Graphic,” and I
remembered the delightful talk I had had with him during his visit.
At that time we were all very much interested in a large fifteen-inch
howitzer, which had been placed behind a farmhouse, fast crumbling into
ruins. It was distant two fields from my abode. To our simple minds, it
seemed that the war would soon come to an end when the Germans heard
Off To France 29
that such weapons were being turned against them. We were informed too,
that three other guns of the same make and calibre were being brought to
France. The gun was the invention of a retired admiral who lived in a
farmhouse nearby and who, when it was loaded, fired it off by pressing an
electric button. The officer in charge of the gun was very pleasant and
several times took me in his car to interesting places. I went with him to
Laventie on the day of the battle of Neuve Chapelle, and saw for the first
time the effects of an attack and the wounded being brought back in
ambulances.
There was one large barn not far off full of beautiful yellow straw
which held several hundred men. I had a service in it one night. The
atmosphere was smoky and mysterious, and the hundreds of little candles
propped up on mess-tins over the straw, looked like a special illumination.
A large heap of straw at the end of the barn served as a platform, and in lieu
of an organ I had a mandolin player to start the hymns. The service went
very well, the men joining in heartily.
The night before the battle of Neuve Chapelle, I went over to see the
captain in charge of the big gun, and he showed me the orders for the next
day, issued by the British General. He told me that at seven o’clock it
would be “Hell let loose,” all down the line. Next morning I woke up
before seven, and blocked up my ears so that I should not be deafened by
the noise of artillery. But for some reason or other the plans had been
changed and I was quite disappointed that the Germans did not get the
hammering it was intended to give them. We were on the left of the British
line during the battle of Neuve Chapelle, and were not really in the fight.
The British suffered very heavily and did not meet with the success which
they had hoped for.
My son was wounded in this engagement and was sent out with the loss
of an eye. On returning from seeing him put into a hospital train at
Merville, I was held up for some hours in the darkness by the British
Cavalry streaming past in a long line. I was delighted to see them for I
thought we had broken through. On the next day to our great
disappointment we saw them going back again.
Near Canadian Headquarters at Sailly there was a large steam laundry
which was used as a bath for our men. It was a godsend to them, for the
scarcity of water made cleanliness difficult. The laundry during bath hours
was a curious spectacle. Scores of large cauldrons of steaming water
covered the floor. In each sat a man with only his head and shoulders
showing, looking as if he were being boiled to death. In the mists of the
heated atmosphere and in the dim light of candles, one was reminded of
Doré’s illustrations of Dante’s Inferno. In one of them he represents a
30 Off To France
damaged. The roof was more or less intact and the altar and pulpit in their
places. I saw what an impressive place it must have been. The Cloth Hall
had been burnt, but the beautiful stone façade was still undamaged. A fire
engine and horses were quartered under the central tower. There was a
quiet air of light and beauty in the quaint old buildings that suggested the
mediaeval prosperity of the city. Behind the better class of houses there
were the usual gardens, laid out with taste, and often containing fountains
and rustic bridges. The French and the Belgians delighted in striving to
make a landscape garden in the small area at their command.
I shall always be thankful that I had the opportunity of paying this visit
to Ypres while it still retained vestiges of its former beauty. Dark and
hideous dreams of drives on ambulances in the midnight hours haunt me
now when the name of Ypres is mentioned. I hear the rattle of lorries and
motorcycles and the tramp of horses on the cobblestones. The grim ruins
on either side of the road stand out hard and sombre in the dim light of the
starry sky. There is the passing of innumerable men and the danger of the
traffic-crowded streets. But Ypres, as I saw it then, was full of beauty
touched with the sadness of the coming ruin.
In the afternoon, I motored back to our brigade on the outskirts of
Cassel. After dinner I started off to find my new billet. As usual I lost my
way. I went off down the country roads. The farms were silent and dark.
There was no one to tell me where my battalion was. I must have gone a
long distance in the many detours I made. The country was still a place of
mystery to me, and “The little owls that hoot and call” seemed to be the
voice of the night itself. The roads were winding and lonely and the air was
full of the pleasant odours of the spring fields. It was getting very late and
I despaired of finding a roof under which to spend the night. I determined
to walk back to the nearest village. As I had marched with the men that day
all the way from Estaires, a distance of about twenty miles, I was quite
reasonably tired and anxious to get a bed. I got back to the main road which
leads to St. Sylvestre. On approaching the little village I was halted by a
British sentry who was mounting guard over a line of Army Service Corps
lorries. I went on and encountered more sentries till I stood in the town
itself and made my difficulty known to a soldier who was passing. I asked
him if he knew where. I could get a lodging for the night. He told me that
some officers had their headquarters in the Curé’s house, and that if I were
to knock at the door, very probably I could find a room in which to stay. I
went to the house which was pointed out to me and knocked. There was a
light in a window upstairs so I knew that my knocking would be heard.
Presently a voice called out from the hollow passage and asked me to open
the door and come in. I did so, and in the dim light saw at the end of the
34 Before The Storm
hall a white figure which was barely distinguishable and which I took to be
the individual who had spoken to me. Consequently I addressed my
conversation to it. The shadowy form asked me what I wanted and I
explained that I had lost my way and asked where the headquarters of my
battalion were. The being replied that it did not know but invited me to
come in and spend the night. At that moment somebody from the upstairs
region came with an electric torch, and the light lit up the empty hall. To
my surprise I found that I had been addressing my conversation to the
life-sized statue of some saint which was standing on a pedestal at the foot
of the stairs. I rather mystified my host by saying that I had been talking to
the image in the hall. However, in spite of this, he asked me to come
upstairs where he would give me a bed. By this time several of the British
officers who occupied the upper flat had become interested in the arrival
of the midnight visitor, and were looking over the bannisters. I can
remember feeling that my only chance of receiving hospitality depended on
my presenting a respectable appearance. I was on my best behaviour. It was
greatly to my confusion, therefore, as I walked upstairs under the inspection
of those of the upper flat, that I stumbled on the narrow steps. In order to
reassure my would-be friends, I called out, “Don’t be alarmed, I am a
chaplain and a teetotaller.” They burst out laughing and on my arrival at the
top greeted me very heartily. I was taken into a long bedroom where there
were five beds in a row, one of which was assigned to me. Not only was I
given a bed, but one of their servants went and brought me a hot-cross bun
and a glass of milk. In return for such wholehearted and magnificent
hospitality, I sat on the edge of the bed and recited poems to my hosts, who
at that hour of the morning were not averse to anything which might be
conducive to sleep. On the next day I was made an honorary member of
their mess. I should like to bear testimony here to the extraordinary
cordiality and kind hospitality which was always shown to us by British
officers.
Later on in the day, I found the 13th Battalion just a few miles outside
Cassel at a place called Terdeghem. It was a quaint little village with an
interesting church. I got a billet in a farmhouse. It was a curious building
of brick and stood on the road where a little gate opened into a delightful
garden, full of old-fashioned flowers. My room was reached by a flight of
steps from the kitchen and was very comfortable. I disliked, however, the
heavy fluffy bed. Murdoch MacDonald used to sleep in the kitchen.
There were some charming walks around Terdeghem. One which I
liked to take led to a very old and picturesque chateau, surrounded by a
moat. I was immensely impressed with the rows of high trees on which the
rooks built their noisy cities. Sometimes a double line of these trees, like
Before The Storm 35
an avenue, would stretch across a field. Often, as I have walked home in the
dark after parish visiting, I have stood between the long rows of trees and
listened to the wind sighing through their bare branches and looked up at
the stars that “were tangled in them.” Then the dread mystery of war and
fate and destruction would come over me. It was a relief to think how
comfortable and unconcerned the rooks were in their nests with their
children about them in bed. They had wings too wherewith to fly away and
be at rest.
Cassel was used at that time by the French Army, so we were excluded
from it unless we had a special permit. It was a delightful old town, and
from its commanding position on a rock has been used as a fortress more
or less since the days of Julius Caesar. The Grand Place is delightful and
quaint. From it, through various archways, one looks down upon the rich
verdure of the fields that stretch far off into the distance.
We had a parade of our four battalions one day, when General
Smith-Dorrien came to inspect us. The place chosen was a green slope not
far from the entrance to the town. The General reviewed the men, and then
gave a talk to the officers. As far as I can recollect, he was most sanguine
about the speedy termination of the war. He told us that all we had to do
was to keep worrying the Germans, and that the final crushing stroke would
be given on the east by the Russians. He also told us that to us was assigned
the place of honour on the extreme left of the British line next to the French
Colonial troops. I overheard an irreverent officer near me say, “Damn the
place of honour,” and I thought of Sam Hughes and his warning about not
objecting to swearing. The General, whom I had met before, asked me to
walk with him up to his car and then said, “I have had reports about the
Canadian Artillery, and I am delighted at their efficiency. I have also heard
the best accounts of the Infantry, but do you think, in the event of a sudden
onslaught by the Germans, that the Canadians will hold their ground? They
are untried troops.” I told him that I was sure that one thing the Canadians
would do would be to hold on. Before a fortnight had passed, in the awful
struggle near Langemarcke, the Canadians proved their ability to hold their
ground.
Shortly after the General’s visit we were ordered to move, and by some
oversight on Murdoch MacDonald’s part, my kit was not ready in time to
be taken by the Brigade transport. In consequence, to my dismay, I saw the
men march off from Terdeghem to parts unknown, and found myself seated
on my kit by the wayside with no apparent hope of following. I
administered a rebuke to Murdoch as sternly as was consistent with the
position of a chaplain, and then asked him to see if he could find any sort
of vehicle at all to carry my stuff off in the direction towards which the
36 Before The Storm
battalion had marched. I must say I felt very lonely and a “bit out of it,” as
I sat by the wayside wondering if I had lost the Brigade for good. In the
meantime, Murdoch scoured the village for a horse and carriage. Suddenly,
to my surprise, a despatch rider on a motorcycle came down the road and
stopped and asked me if I knew where Canon Scott was. I said, “I’m the
man,” and he handed me a letter. It turned out to be one from General
Smith-Dorrien, asking me to allow him to send a poem which I had written,
called “On the Rue du Bois” to “The Times.” It was such a kind friendly
letter that at once it dispelled my sense of loneliness, and when Murdoch
arrived and told me that there was not a horse in the place at my disposal,
I replied that I did not mind so much now since I had the British General
for a friend. I left Murdoch to guard my goods and chattels and went off
myself down the road to the old Château and farmhouse. There I was lucky
enough to obtain a cart with three wheels. It was an extremely long and
heavily built vehicle and looked as if it dated from the 17th century. The
horse that was put into it looked as if it had been born about the same
period. The old man who held the solitary rein and sat over the third wheel
under the bow looked to be of almost equal antiquity. It must have been
about thirty feet from the tip of the old horse’s nose to the end of the cart.
However I was glad to get any means of transportation at all, so I followed
the thing to the road where my kit was waiting, Murdoch MacDonald put
all my worldly possessions on the equipage. They seemed to occupy very
little room in the huge structure. Murdoch, shouldering his rifle, followed
it, and I, rather ashamed of the grotesque appearance of my caravan,
marched on as quickly as I could in front, hoping to escape the ridicule
which I knew would be heaped upon me by all ranks of my beloved
brigade. A man we met told us that the battalion had gone to Steenvoorde,
so thither we made our way. On our arrival I was taken to the Château and
kindly treated by the laird and his family, who allowed me to spread out my
bed-roll on the dining room floor.
On the following morning an Imperial officer very kindly took me and
my kit to Ypres. There at the end of Yser Canal, I found a pleasant billet in
a large house belonging to a Mr. Vandervyver, who, with his mother, gave
me a kind reception and a most comfortably furnished room. Later on, the
units of our brigade arrived and I marched up with the 14th Battalion to the
village of Wieltje. Over it, though we knew it not, hung the gloom of
impending tragedy. Around it now cluster memories of the bitter price in
blood and anguish which we were soon called upon to pay for the
overthrow of tyranny. It was a lovely spring evening when we arrived, and
the men were able to sit down on the green grass and have their supper
before going into the trenches by St. Julien. I walked back down that
Before The Storm 37
memorable road which two years later I travelled for the last time on my
return from Passchendaele. The great sunset lit the sky with beautiful
colours. The rows of trees along that fateful way were ready to burst into
new life. The air was fresh and invigorating. To the south, lay the hill
which is known to the world as Hill 60, afterwards the scene of such bitter
fighting. Before me in the distance, soft and mellow in the evening light,
rose the towers and spires of Ypres–Ypres! the very name sends a strange
thrill through the heart. For all time, the word will stand as a symbol for
brutal assaults and ruthless destruction on the one hand and heroic resolve
and dogged resistance on the other. On any grim monument raised to the
Demon of War, the sole word “YPRES” would be a sufficient and fitting
inscription.
38
that big things were going to happen. I had a feeling that we were resting
on the top of a volcano. At the end of the service I prepared for any sudden
call to ministration on the battlefield by reserving the Blessed Sacrament.
On Monday some men had narrow escapes when a house was shelled
and on the following day I went to the centre of the town with two officers
to see the house which had been hit. They appeared to be in a hurry to get
to the Square, so I went up one of the side streets to look at the damaged
house. In a cellar near by I found an old woman making lace. Her
hunchback son was sitting beside her. While I was making a few purchases,
we heard the ripping sound of an approaching shell. It grew louder, till at
last a terrific crash told us that the monster had fallen not far off. At that
moment a number of people crowded into an adjoining cellar, where they
fell on their knees and began to say a litany. I stood at the door looking at
them. It was a pitiful sight. There were one or two old men and some
women, and some little children and a young girl who was in hysterics.
They seemed so helpless, so defenceless against the rain of shells.
I went off down the street towards the Square where the last shell had
fallen, and there on the corner I saw a large house absolutely crushed in. It
had formerly been a club, for there were billiard tables in the upper room.
The front wall had crashed down upon the pavement, and from the debris
some men were digging out the body of an officer who had been standing
there when the shell fell. His was the first terribly mangled body that I had
ever seen. He was laid face downwards on a stretcher and borne away. At
that moment a soldier came up and told me that one of the officers with
whom I had entered the town about half an hour ago had been killed, and
his body had been taken to a British ambulance in the city. I walked across
the Square, and there I saw the stretcher-bearers carrying off some civilians
who had been hit by splinters of the shell. In the hospital were many dead
bodies and wounded men for there had been over one hundred casualties
in the city that day. We had hardly arrived when once again we heard the
ripping sound which had such a sinister meaning. Then followed a terrific
explosion. The final and dreadful bombardment of Ypres had begun. At
intervals of ten minutes the huge seventeen-inch shells fell, sounding the
death knell of the beautiful old town.
On the next morning, the brother-in-law of the officer who had been
killed called on me and asked me to go and see the Town Major and secure
a piece of ground which might be used for the Canadian Cemetery. The
Town Major gave us permission to mark off a plot in the new British
cemetery. It was in an open field near the jail, known by the name of the
Plain d’Amour, and by it was a branch canal. Our Headquarters ordered the
Engineers to mark off the place, and that night we laid the body to rest.
40 The Second Battle of Ypres
gateway when a man came in from the street and took the old fellow on his
back and carried him off. By the gateway was a room used as a guardroom.
There I found a sentry with three or four Imperials. One of the lads had lost
his nerve and was lying under a wooden bench. I tried to cheer them by
telling them it was very unlikely that any more shells would come in our
direction. I remembered reading in one of Marryatt’s books that an officer
in the Navy declared he had saved his life by always sticking his head into
the hole in the ship which a cannon ball had made, as it was a million
chances to one against another cannon ball striking that particular place.
Still, at regular intervals, we heard the ripping sound and the huge
explosion of a shell. Later on, two members of the 14th Battalion came in,
and a woman and a little boy carrying milk. We did our best to restore the
lady’s courage and hoped that the bombardment would soon cease.
It was about seven p.m., when all of a sudden, we heard the roar of
transports and the shouting of people in the street, and I went out to see
what was the matter. To my horror I saw a battery of artillery galloping into
the town. Civilians were rushing down the pavements on each side of the
road, and had even filled the limbers. I called out to one of the drivers and
asked him what it meant. “It is a general retreat,” he shouted. “The
Germans are on our heels.” “Where are the infantry?” I called out. “They
have all gone.” That was one of the most awful moments in my life. I said
to myself, “Has old England lost the War after all?” My mouth became
suddenly dry as though filled with ashes. A young fellow on horseback
stopped and, dismounting, very gallantly said, “Here, Sir, take my horse.”
“No thank you,” I said, but I was grateful to him all the same for his
self-sacrifice. I returned to the guardroom and told the sentries what had
happened. The lady and the young boy disappeared and the men and I
debated as to what we should do. The words, “The Germans are on our
heels,” were still ringing in my ears. I did not quite know what they
signified. Whether they meant in military language that the Germans were
ten miles away or were really round the next corner, I did not know, but I
took the precaution of looking up the street before entering the gateway. On
talking the matter over, the men and I thought it might be the part of
discretion to make our way down past the Railway Station to the
Vlamertinghe road, as none of us wanted to be taken prisoners. We
therefore went down some side streets and crossed the bridge on the road
that leads to Vlamertinghe. There I found an ammunition column hurrying
out of the town, and the man riding one of the horses on a limber invited me
to mount the other, which was saddled. It is so long, however, since I left
the circus ring that I cannot mount a galloping horse unless I put my foot
into the stirrup. So after two or three ineffectual attempts at a running
42 The Second Battle of Ypres
mount, I climbed up into the limber and asked the driver if it was a general
retreat. “No,” he said, “I don’t think so, only the Germans are close at hand
and we were ordered to put the ammunition column further off.” “Well,”
I said, “If it isn’t a general retreat, I must go back to my lines or I shall be
shot for desertion.” I got off the limber and out of the crowd of people, and
was making my way back, when I saw a car with a staff officer in it coming
up in the direction of the City. I stopped the car and asked the officer if he
would give me a ride back to Ypres. When I got in, I said to him quite
innocently, “Is this a general retreat?” His nerves were evidently on edge,
and he turned on me fiercely, saying, “Padré, never use such a word out
here. That word must never be mentioned at the front.” I replied, in excuse,
that I had been told it was a retreat by a battery that was coming back from
the front. “Padré,” he continued, “that word must never be used.” I am not
sure that he did not enforce his commands by some strong theological
terms. “Padré, that word must never be used out here.” “Well,” I said, “this
is the first war I have ever been at, and if I can arrange matters it is the last,
but I promise you I will never use it again.” Not the least flicker of a smile
passed over his face. Of course, as time went on and I advanced in military
knowledge, I came to know the way in which my question ought to have
been phrased. Instead of saying, “Is this a general retreat?,” I ought to have
said, “Are we straightening the line?” or “Are we pinching the Salient?”
We went on till we came to a general who was standing by the road waiting
to “straighten the line.” I got out of the car and asked him where I should
go. He seemed to be in a great hurry and said gruffly, “You had better go
back to your lines.” I did not know where they were, but I determined to go
in their direction. The general got into the car which turned round and made
off towards Vlamertinghe, and I, after a long and envious look in his
direction, continued my return to Ypres.
People were still pouring out of the City. I recrossed the bridge, and
making my way towards the cemetery, met two men of one of our battalions
who were going back. I handed them each a card with my address on it and
asked them, in case of my being taken prisoner, to write and tell my family
that I was in good health and that my kit was at Mr. Vandervyver’s on the
Quai. The short cut to my billet led past the quiet cemetery where our two
comrades had been laid to rest. It seemed so peaceful that I could not help
envying them that their race was won.
It was dark now, but a bright moon was shining and lit up the waters of
the branch canal as I walked along the bank towards my home. The sound
of firing at the front was continuous and showed that a great battle was
raging. I went by the house where the C.O. of the 16th Battalion had had his
headquarters as I passed that afternoon. It was now quite deserted and the
The Second Battle of Ypres 43
windows in it and in the houses round the square were all shattered. Not a
living thing could I see. I walked across to my billet and found the shutters
of the house closed. On the table where my letters were, a smoky oil lamp
was burning. Not a human being was there. I never felt so lonely in my life,
and those words, “The Germans are on our heels,” still kept ringing in my
ears. I took the lamp and went upstairs to my room. I was determined that
the Germans should not get possession of the photographs of my family. I
put them in my pocket, and over my shoulder the pair of glasses which the
Bishop and clergy of Quebec had given me on my departure. I also hung
round my neck the pyx containing the Blessed Sacrament, then I went out
on the street, not knowing what way to take. To my infinite delight, some
men came marching up in the moonlight from the end of the canal. I
recognized them as the 16th Battalion, Canadian Scottish, and I called out,
“Where are you going, boys?” The reply came glad and cheerful. “We are
going to reinforce the line, Sir, the Germans have broken through.” “That’s
all right, boys,” I said, “play the game. I will go with you.” Never before
was I more glad to meet human beings. The splendid battalion marched up
through the streets towards St. Jean. The men wore their overcoats and full
kits. I passed up and down the battalion talking to officers and men. As I
was marching beside them, a sergeant called out to me, “Where are we
going, Sir?” “That depends upon the lives you have led.” A roar of laughter
went up from the men. If I had known how near the truth my words were,
I probably would not have said them. When we got to St. Jean, a sergeant
told me that the 14th Battalion was holding the line. The news was received
gladly, and the men were eager to go forward and share the glory of their
comrades. Later on, as I was marching in front of the battalion a man of the
15th met us. He was in a state of great excitement, and said, “The men are
poisoned, Sir, the Germans have turned on gas and our men are dying.” I
said to him very sternly, “Now, my boy, not another word about that here.”
“But it’s true, Sir.” “Well, that may be, but these men have got to go there
all the same, and the gas may have gone before they arrive, so promise me
not another word about the poison.” He gave me his promise and when I
met him a month afterwards in Bailleul he told me he had never said a word
about the gas to any of the men that night.
We passed through Weiltje where all was stir and commotion, and the
dressing stations were already full, and then we deployed into the fields on
a rise in the ground near St. Julien. By this time, our men had become
aware of the gas, because, although the German attack had been made a
good many hours before, the poisonous fumes still clung about the fields
and made us cough. Our men were halted along the field and sat down
waiting for orders. The crack of thousands of rifles and the savage roar of
44 The Second Battle of Ypres
artillery were incessant, and the German flare-lights round the salient
appeared to encircle us. There was a hurried consultation of officers and
then the orders were given to the different companies. An officer who was
killed that night came down and told us that the Germans were in the wood
which we could see before us at some distance in the moonlight, and that
a house from which we saw gleams of light was held by German machine
guns. The men were told that they had to take the wood at the point of the
bayonet and were not to fire, as the 10th Battalion would be in front of them.
I passed down the line and told them that they had a chance to do a bigger
thing for Canada that night than had ever been done before. “It’s a great day
for Canada, boys.” I said. The words afterwards became a watchword, for
the men said that whenever I told them that, it meant that half of them were
going to be killed. The battalion rose and fixed bayonets and stood ready
for the command to charge. It was a thrilling moment, for we were in the
midst of one of the decisive battles of the war. A shrapnel burst just as the
men moved off and a man dropped in the rear rank. I went over to him and
found he was bleeding in the neck. I bound him up and then taking his kit,
which he was loath to lose, was helping him to walk towards the dressing
station when I saw what I thought were sandbags in the moonlight. I called
out, “Is anybody there?” A voice replied, “Yes, Sir, there is a dying man
here.” I went over and there I found two stretcher-bearers beside a young
fellow called Duffy, who was unconscious. He had been struck by a piece
of shrapnel in the head and his brain was protruding. Duffy was a
well-known athlete and had won the Marathon race. We tried to lift him,
but with his equipment on he was too heavy, so I sent off the wounded man
to Wieltje with one of the stretcher-bearers who was to return with a bearer
party. The other one and I watched by Duffy. It was an awful and
wonderful time. Our field batteries never slackened their fire and the wood
echoed back the crackling sound of the guns. The flare lights all round gave
a lurid background to the scene. At the foot of the long slope, down which
the brave lads had gone to the attack, I saw the black outline of the trees.
Over all fell the soft light of the moon. A great storm of emotion swept
through me and I prayed for our men in their awful charge, for I knew that
the Angel of Death was passing down our lines that night. When the bearer
party arrived, we lifted Duffy on to the stretcher, and the men handed me
their rifles and we moved off. I hung the rifles on my shoulder, and I
thought if one of them goes off and blows my brains out, there will be a
little paragraph in the Canadian papers, “Canon Scott accidentally killed by
the discharge of a rifle,” and my friends will say, “What a fool he was to
fuss about rifles, why didn’t he stick to his own job?” However, they were
Ross rifles and had probably jammed. There were many wounded being
The Second Battle of Ypres 45
carried or making their way towards Wieltje. The road was under shell fire
all the way. When we got to the dressing station which was a small
red-brick estaminet, we were confronted by a horrible sight. On the
pavement before it were rows and rows of stretcher cases, and inside the
place, which was dimly lighted by candles and lamps, I found the doctor
and his staff working away like Trojans. The operating room was a
veritable shambles. The doctor had his shirt sleeves rolled up and his hands
and arms were covered with blood.
The wounded were brought in from outside and laid on the table, where
the doctor attended to them. Some ghastly sights were disclosed when the
stretcher-bearers ripped off the blood-stained clothes and laid bare the
hideous wounds. At the end of the room, an old woman, with a face like the
witch of Endor, apparently quite unmoved by anything that was happening,
was grinding coffee in a mill and making a black concoction which she sold
to the men. It was no doubt a good thing for them to get a little stimulant.
In another room the floor was covered with wounded waiting to be
evacuated. There were many Turcos present. Some of them were suffering
terribly from the effects of the gas. Fresh cases were being brought down
the road every moment, and laid out on the cold pavement till they could
be attended to.
About two in the morning a despatch rider arrived and meeting me at
the door asked if I could speak French. He said, “Tell the Turcos and every
one else who can walk to clear off to Ypres as soon as they can; the
Germans are close at hand.” Indeed it sounded so, because the rifle fire was
very close. I went into the room and delivered my message, in French and
English, to the wounded men. Immediately there was a general stampede
of all who could possibly drag themselves towards the city. It was indeed
a piteous procession which passed out of the door. Turcos with heads
bandaged, or arms bound up or one leg limping, and our own men equally
disabled, helped one another down that terrible road towards the City. Soon
all the people who could walk had gone. But there in the room, and along
the pavement outside, lay helpless men. I went to the M.O. and asked him
what we were to do with the stretcher cases. “Well” he said, “I suppose we
shall have to leave them because all the ambulances have gone.” “How can
we desert them?” I said. The Medical Officer was of course bound by
orders to go back with his men but I myself felt quite free in the matter, so
I said, “I will stay and be made prisoner.” “Well,” he said, “so will I.
Possibly I shall get into trouble for it, but I cannot leave them to the enemy
without any one to look after them.” So we made a compact that we would
both stay behind and be made prisoners. I went over to another Field
Ambulance, where a former curate of mine was chaplain. They had luckily
46 The Second Battle of Ypres
been able to evacuate their wounded and were all going off. I told him that
I should probably be made a prisoner that night, but asked him to cable
home and tell my family that I was in good health and that the Germans
treated chaplains, when they took them prisoners, very kindly. Then I made
my way back. There was a tremendous noise of guns now at the front. It
was a horrible thought that our men were up there bearing the brunt of
German fury and hatred. Their faces passed through my mind as individuals
were recalled. The men whom I knew so well, young, strong and full of
hope and life, men from whom Canada had so much to expect, men whose
lives were so precious to dear ones far away, were now up in that poisoned
atmosphere and under the hideous hail of bullets and shells. The thought
almost drove a chaplain to madness. One felt so powerless and longed to
be up and doing. Not once or twice in the Great War, have I longed to be
a combatant officer with enemy scalps to my credit. Our men had been
absolutely guiltless of war ambitions. It was not their fault that they were
over here. That the Kaiser’s insatiable, mad lust for power should be able
to launch destruction upon Canadian hearts and homes was intolerable. I
looked down the Ypres road, and there, to my horror, saw the lovely City
lit up with flames. The smoke rolled up into the moonlit sky, and behind the
dull glow of the fires I saw the Cloth Hall tower stand out in bold defiance.
There was nothing for us to do then and for nearly four years more but keep
our heads cool, set our teeth and deepen our resolve.
The dressing station had received more stretcher cases, and still more
were coming in. The Medical Officer and his staff were working most
heroically. I told him I had given instructions about cabling home should
I be taken prisoner, and then I suddenly remembered that I had a scathing
poem on the Kaiser in my pocket. I had written it in the quiet beauties of
Beaupré, below Quebec, when the war first began. When I wrote it, I was
told that if I were ever taken prisoner in Germany with that poem in my
pocket, I should be shot or hanged. At that time, the German front line
seemed so far off that it was like saying, “If you get to the moon the man
there will eat you up.” But the changes and chances of war had suddenly
brought me face to face with the fact that I had resolved to be taken
prisoner, and from what I heard and saw the event was not unlikely. So I
said to the M.O. “I have just remembered that I have got in my pocket a
printed copy of a very terrible poem which I wrote about the Kaiser. Of
course you know I don’t mind being shot or hanged by the Germans, but,
if I am, who will write the poems of the War?” The M.O. laughed and
thinking it unwise on general principles to wave a red rag in front of a mad
bull, advised me to tear up my verses. I did so with great reluctance, but the
precaution was unnecessary as the Germans never got through after all.
The Second Battle of Ypres 47
All along those terrible fields of death the battle raged. Young
Canadians, new to war, but old in the inheritance of the blood of British
freedom, were holding the line. The dressing station was soon full again,
and, later on, a despatch rider came from the 3rd Infantry Brigade
Headquarters in Shell-Trap Farm to tell us that more help was needed there.
One of the M.O.’s assistants and a sergeant started off and I followed. We
went down the road and then turned to the right up to the moated farmhouse
where the Brigade was. As we went forward towards the battle front, the
night air was sharp and bracing. Gun-flashes lit up the horizon, but above
us the moon and stars looked quietly down. Wonderful deeds of heroism
were being done by our men along those shell-ploughed fields, under that
placid sky. What they endured, no living tongue can tell. Their Maker alone
knows what they suffered and how they died. The eloquent tribute which
history will give to their fame is that, in spite of the enemy’s immense
superiority in numbers, and his brutal launching of poisonous gas, he did
not get through.
In a ditch by the wayside, a battalion was waiting to follow up the
charge. Every man among the Canadians was “on the job” that night. We
crossed the field to the farmhouse which we found filled to overflowing.
Ambulances were waiting there to carry the wounded back to Ypres. I saw
many friends carried in, and men were lying on the pavement outside.
Bullets were cracking against the outer brick walls. One Highlander
mounted guard over a wounded German prisoner. He had captured him and
was filled with the hunter’s pride in his game. “I got him myself, Sir, and
I was just going to run him through with my bayonet when he told me he
had five children. As I have five children myself, I could not kill him. So
I brought him out here.” I looked down at the big prostrate German who
was watching us with interest largely rooted in fear. “Funf kinder?” (five
children) “Ja, ja.” I wasn’t going to be beaten by a German, so I told him
I had seven children and his face fell. I found out afterwards that a great
many Germans, when they were captured, said they had five children. The
Germans I think used to be put through a sort of catechism before they went
into action, in case they should be taken prisoners. For example, they
always told us they were sure we were going to win the war. They always
said they were glad to be taken prisoners. When they were married men,
they said they had five children and so appealed to our pity. People do not
realize even yet how very thorough the Germans were in everything that
they thought was going to bring them the mastership of the world. When a
German soldier saw the game was up, he surrendered at once and thus was
preserved to fight for his country in the next war.
In the stable of the farm, I found many seriously wounded men lying on
48 The Second Battle of Ypres
the straw, and I took down messages which they were sending to their
relatives at home. On the other side of the wall, we could hear the bullets
striking. As I had the Blessed Sacrament with me I was able to give
communion to a number of the wounded. By this time the grey of
approaching day began to silver the eastern sky. It was indeed a comfort to
feel that the great clockwork of the universe went on just as if nothing was
happening. Over and over again in the war the approach of dawn has put
new life into one. It was such a tremendous and glorious thing to think that
the world rolled on through space and turned on its axis, whatever turmoil
foolish people were making upon its surface.
With the dawn came the orders to clear the wounded. The ambulances
were sent off and one of the doctors told me to come with him, as the
General had commanded the place to be cleared of all but the necessary
military staff. It was about four in the morning when we started. There was
a momentary quieting down in the firing as we crossed the bridge over the
moat, but shells were still crashing in the fields, and through the air we
heard every now and then the whistling of bullets. We kept our heads low
and were hurrying on when we encountered a signaller with two horses,
which he had to take back to the main road. One of these he offered to me.
I had not been wanting to mount higher in the air, but I did not like the
fellow to think I had got “cold feet.” So I accepted it graciously, but
annoyed him very much by insisting upon lengthening the stirrups before
I mounted. He got impatient at what he considered an unnecessary delay,
but I told him I would not ride with my knees up to my chin for all the
Germans in the world. When I was mounted, we started off at a good gallop
across the fields to the Ypres road. It was an exciting ride, and I must
confess, looking back upon it, a thoroughly enjoyable one, reminding me
of old stories of battles and the Indian escapes of my boyhood’s novels.
When we arrived at the main road, I had to deliver up my horse to its
owner, and then I decided to walk to Ypres, as by so doing I could speak to
the many Imperial men that were marching up to reinforce the line. I
refused many kind offers of lifts on lorries and waggons. The British
battalions were coming up and I was sorry for them. The young fellows
looked so tired and hungry. They had been in France, I think, only
twenty-four hours. At any rate, they had had a long march, and, as it turned
out, were going up, most of them, to their death, I took great pleasure in
hailing them cheerfully and telling them that it was all right, as the
Canadians had held the line, and that the Germans were not going to get
through. One sergeant said, “You put a lot of braces in my tunic when you
talk like that, Sir.” Nothing is more wonderful than the way in which men
under tense anxiety will respond to the slightest note of cheer. This was the
The Second Battle of Ypres 49
case all through the war. The slightest word or suggestion would often turn
a man from a feeling of powerless dejection into one of defiant
determination. These young Britishers whom I met that morning were a
splendid type of men. Later on the machine-gun fire over the fields mowed
them down in pitiful and ruthless destruction. As I journeyed towards
Ypres I saw smoke rolling up from various parts of the city and down the
road, in the air, I saw the flashes of bursting shrapnel. I passed St. Jean and
made my way to my house by the canal.
The shutters were still shut and the door was open. I entered and found
in the dining room that the lamp was still burning on the table. It was now
about seven o’clock and Mr. Vandervyver had returned and was upstairs
arranging his toilet. I went out into the garden and called one of the sentries
to tell Murdoch MacDonald to come to me. While I was talking to the
sentry, an officer came by and warned me to get away from that corner
because the Germans were likely to shell it as it was the only road in the
neighbourhood for the passage of troops to and from the front. When
Murdoch arrived, I told him I wanted to have breakfast, for I had had
nothing to eat since luncheon the day before and had done a lot of walking.
He looked surprised and said, “Fancy having breakfast when the town is
being shelled.” “Well,” I said, “don’t you know we always read in the
papers, when a man is hanged, that before he went out to the gallows he ate
a hearty breakfast? There must be some philosophy in it. At any rate, you
might as well die on a full stomach as an empty one.” So Murdoch began
to get breakfast ready in the kitchen, where Mr. Vandervyver’s maid was
already preparing a meal for her master. I shaved and had a good clean up
and was sitting in the dining room arranging the many letters and messages
which I had received from men who asked me to write to their relatives.
Breakfast had just been set on the table when I heard the loudest bang I
have ever heard in my life. A seventeen inch shell had fallen in the corner
of the garden where the sentry had been standing. The windows of the
house were blown in, the ceiling came down and soot from the chimneys
was scattered over everything. I suddenly found myself, still in a sitting
posture, some feet beyond the chair in which I had been resting. Mr.
Vandervyver ran downstairs and out into the street with his toilet so
disarranged that he looked as if he were going to take a swim. Murdoch
MacDonald disappeared and I did not see him again for several days. A
poor old woman in the street had been hit in the head and was being taken
off by a neighbour and a man was lying in the road with a broken leg. All
my papers were unfortunately lost in the debris of the ceiling. I went
upstairs and got a few more of my remaining treasures and came back to the
dining room. There I scraped away the dust and found two boiled eggs. I
50 The Second Battle of Ypres
got some biscuits from the sideboard and went and filled my waterbottle
with tea in the damaged kitchen. I was just starting out of the door when
another shell hit the building on the opposite side of the street. It had been
used as a billet by some of our men. The sentry I had been talking to had
disappeared and all they could find of him were his boots with his feet in
them. In the building opposite, we found a Highlander badly wounded and
I got stretcher-bearers to come and carry him off to the 2nd Field Ambulance
in the Square nearby. Their headquarters had been moved to Vlamertinghe
and they were evacuating that morning. The civilians now had got out of
the town. All sorts of carts and wheelbarrows had been called into
requisition. There were still some wounded men in the dressing station and
a sergeant was in charge. I managed to commandeer a motor ambulance and
stow them in it. Shells were falling fast in that part of the town. It was
perfectly impossible to linger any longer. A certain old inhabitant, however,
would not leave. He said he would trust to the good God and stay in the
cellar of his house till the war was over. Poor man, if he did not change his
mind, his body must be in the cellar still, for the last time I saw the place,
which henceforth was known as “Hell Fire Corner,” there was not one
stone left upon another. Only a little brick wall remained to show where the
garden and house of my landlord had been. I collected the men of the
Ambulance and started off with them to Vlamertinghe. On the way we
added to our numbers men who had either lost their units or were being sent
back from the line.
As we passed through the Grande Place, which now wore a very much
more dilapidated appearance than it had three days before, we found a
soldier on the pavement completely intoxicated. He was quite unconscious
and could not walk. There was nothing to do but to make him as
comfortable as possible till he should awake next day to the horrors of the
real world. We carried him into a room of a house and laid him on a heap
of straw. I undid the collar of his shirt so that he might have full scope for
extra blood pressure and left him to his fate. I heard afterwards that the
house was struck and that he was wounded and taken away to a place of
safety. When we got down to the bridge on the Vlamertinghe road, an
Imperial Signal Officer met me in great distress. His men had been putting
up telegraph wires on the other side of the canal and a shell had fallen and
killed thirteen of them. He asked our men to carry the bodies back over the
bridge and lay them side by side in an outhouse. The men did so, and the
row of mutilated, twisted and bleeding forms was pitiful to see. The officer
was very grateful to us, but the bodies were probably never buried because
that part of the city was soon a ruin. We went on down the road towards
Vlamertinghe, past the big asylum, so long known as a dressing station,
The Second Battle of Ypres 51
with its wonderful and commodious cellars. It had been hit and the upstairs
part was no longer used.
The people along the road were leaving their homes as fast as they
could. One little procession will always stand out in my mind. In front one
small boy of about six years old was pulling a toy cart in which two
younger children were packed. Behind followed the mother with a large
bundle on her back. Then came the father with a still bigger one. There they
were trudging along, leaving their home behind with its happy memories,
to go forth as penniless refugees, compelled to live on the charity of others.
It was through no fault of their own, but only through the monstrous greed
and ambition of a despot crazed with feudal dreams of a by-gone age. As
I looked at that little procession, and at many other similar ones, the words
of the Gospel kept ringing in my ears, “Inasmuch as ye have done it unto
one of the least of these my brethren, ye have done it unto me.” These
words I felt sounded the doom of the Kaiser. Many and many a time when
the war from our point of view has been going badly, and men would ask
me, “How about the war, Sir?” or, “Are we winning the war, Sir?” I would
reply, “Boys, unless the devil has got into heaven we are going to win. If
he has, the German Emperor will have a good friend there. But he hasn’t,
and any nation which tramples on the rights and liberties of humanity,
glories in it, makes it a matter of national boasting, and casts medals to
commemorate the sinking of unprotected ships–any nation which does that
is bound to lose the war, no matter how badly things may look at the
present time.” It was nothing but that unflinching faith in the power of right
which kept our men so steadfast. Right is after all only another name for the
will of God. Men who knew no theology, who professed no creed, who
even pretended to great indifference about the venture of eternity, were
unalterably fixed in their faith in the power of right. It gives one a great
opportunity of building the higher edifice of religion when one discovers
the rock foundation in a man’s convictions.
When we reached Vlamertinghe we found that a school house had been
taken over by the 2nd Field Ambulance.
There was a terrible shortage of stretchers and blankets, as most of the
equipment had been lost at Ypres. All that day and night the furious battle
raged, and many fresh British battalions passed up to reinforce the line. As
soon as it was dark, the wounded began to come in, and by midnight the
school-house was filled to overflowing. The men were lying out in rows on
the cold stone floor with nothing under them. Ambulances were coming
and going as hour after hour passed by. I went among the sufferers, many
of whom I knew. The sergeant would come to me and tell me where the
worst cases were. He whispered to me once, “There is a dying man over
52 The Second Battle of Ypres
here.” We trod softly between the prostrate forms till we came to one poor
fellow who looked up with white face under the candle light. I saw he was
dying. He belonged to one of the British battalions that I had passed on the
road. I asked him if he would like to receive the Holy Communion. He was
pleased when I told him I could give it to him. He had been a chorister in
England, and he felt so far from the ministrations of his church now. He
made his confession and I pronounced the absolution. Then I gave him the
Blessed Sacrament. Like many severely wounded men, he was not suffering
much, but was dying of shock. We were now compelled to use the church
and it also soon became a scene of suffering. The building to-day is a ruin,
but then it had been untouched by shells and was large and impressive. We
had only a few candles with which to light it. The wounded were laid out,
some on the floor, some on chairs, and some sat up waiting for the convoys
of ambulances that were to take them to the Base. It was a strange scene.
In the distance we heard the roar of the battle, and here, in the dim light of
the hollow-sounding aisles, were shadowy figures huddled up on chairs or
lying on the floor. Once the silence was broken by a loud voice shouting
out with startling suddenness, “O God! stop it.” I went over to the man. He
was a British sergeant. He would not speak, but I think in his terrible
suffering he meant the exclamation as a kind of prayer. I thought it might
help the men to have a talk with them, so I told them what great things were
being done that night and what a noble part they had played in holding back
the German advance and how all the world would honour them in after
times. Then I said, “Boys, let us have a prayer for our comrades up in that
roar of battle at the front. When I say the Lord’s Prayer join in with me, but
not too loudly as we don’t want to disturb those who are trying to sleep.”
I had a short service and they all joined in the Lord’s Prayer. It was most
impressive in that large, dim church, to hear the voices, not loudly, but
quite distinctly, repeating the words from different parts of the building, for
some of the men had gone over to corners where they might be by
themselves. After the Lord’s Prayer I pronounced the Benediction, and then
I said, “Boys, the Curé won’t mind your smoking in the church tonight, so
I am going to pass round some cigarettes.” Luckily I had a box of five
hundred which had been sent to me by post. These I handed round and lit
them. Voices from different parts would say, “May I have one, Sir?” It was
really delightful to feel that a moment’s comfort could be given to men in
their condition. A man arrived that night with both his eyes gone, and even
he asked for a cigarette. I had to put the cigarette into his mouth and light
it for him. “It’s so dark, Sir,” he said, “I can’t see.” I was not going to tell
him he would never see again, so I said, “Your head is all bandaged up. Of
course you can’t.” He was one of the first to be taken off in the ambulance,
The Second Battle of Ypres 53
and I do not know whether he is alive or dead. Our Canadians still held on
with grim determination, and they deserved the tribute which Marshal Foch
has paid them of saving the day at Ypres.
When they came out of the line, and I was living once again among
them, going from battalion to battalion, it was most amusing to hear them
tell of all their adventures during the great attack. The English newspapers
reached us and they were loud in their praise of “the gallant Canadians.”
The King, General Joffre, and Sir Robert Borden, sent messages to our
troops. One man said, amid the laughter of his comrades, “All I can
remember, Sir, was that I was in a blooming old funk for about three days
and three nights and now I am told I am a hero. Isn’t that fine?” Certainly
they deserved all the praise they got. In a battle there is always the mixture
of the serious and the comic. One Turco, more gallant than his fellows,
refused to leave the line and joined the 16th Battalion. He fought so well
that they decided to reward him by turning him into a Highlander. He
consented to don the kilt, but would not give up his trousers as they
concealed his black legs.
The Second Battle of Ypres was the making of what grew to be the
Canadian Corps. Up to that time, Canadians were looked upon, and looked
upon themselves, merely as troops that might be expected to hold the line
and do useful spade work, but from then onward the men felt they could
rise to any emergency, and the army knew they could be depended upon.
The pace then set was followed by the other divisions and, at the end, the
Corps did not disappoint the expectations of General Foch. What higher
praise could be desired?
My billet in Vlamertinghe was in a neat little cottage owned by an old
maid, who took great pride in making everything shine. The paymaster of
one of our battalions and I had a cheerful home there when the poor old
lady fled. Her home however did not long survive her absence, for, some
days after she left, it was levelled by a shell. The church too was struck and
ruined. Beside it is the military cemetery within which lie the mortal
remains of many gallant men, amongst them the two Grenfells, one of
whom got the V.C. There I buried poor Duffy and many more. The other
chaplains laid to rest men under their care.
One picture always comes to my mind when I think of Vlamertinghe.
In the road near the church was a Crucifix. The figure was life size and
hung on a cross planted upon a rocky mound. One night when the sun had
set and a great red glow burnt along the horizon, I saw the large black cross
silhouetted against the crimson sky, and before it knelt an aged woman with
grey hair falling from beneath the kerchief that was tied about her head. It
was dangerous at all times to stay at that place, yet she knelt there silently
54 The Second Battle of Ypres
in prayer. She seemed to be the embodiment of the old life and quiet
contented religious hope which must have been the spirit of Vlamertinghe
in the past. The village was an absolute ruin a few days later, and even the
Sisters had to flee from their convent. The Crucifix, however, stood for a
long time after the place was destroyed, but I never passed by without
thinking of the poor old woman who knelt at its foot in the evening light
and laid her burden of cares upon the heart of Eternal Pity.
55
hen our men came out of the line, the 2nd Field Ambulance was
W ordered back for rest and reorganization to a village called
Ouderdom, three miles to the Southwest, and their O.C. invited me to
follow them. It was late in the evening when I started to walk. The light was
fading and, as I had no map, I was not certain where Ouderdom was. I went
down the road, delighting in the sweet smells of nature. It was with a sense
of unusual freedom that I walked along with all my worldly possessions in
my haversack. I thought how convenient it was to lose one’s kit. Now I
could lie down beside any haystack and feel quite at home. The evening air
grew chillier and I thought I had better get some roof over my head for the
night. I asked various men that I met where Ouderdom was. None of them
knew. I was forced once again to take my solitary journey into the great
unknown. It was therefore with much satisfaction that, when quite dark, I
came upon some wooden huts and saw a number of men round a little fire
in a field. I went up to one of the huts and found in it a very kind and
courteous middle-aged lieutenant, who was in charge of a detachment of
Indian troops. When he heard I was looking for the Field Ambulance and
going towards Ouderdom, he told me it was much too late to continue my
journey that night. “You stay with me in my hut, Padré,” he said, “and in
the morning I will give you a horse to take you to your men.” He told me
that he had been living by himself and was only too delighted to have a
companion to talk to. He treated me as bounteously as circumstances would
56 Festubert and Givenchy
permit, and after a good dinner, he gave me a blanket and straw bed on the
floor of his hut. It was very pleasant to come out of the darkness and
loneliness of the road and find such a kind host, and such good hospitality.
We discussed many things that night, and the next day I was shown over
the camp. Later on, the Lieutenant sent me on horseback to Ouderdom.
There I found the Ambulance encamped in a pleasant field beside a large
pond, which afforded us the luxury of a bath. I shall never forget those two
restful days I spent at Ouderdom. I blamed the blankets, however, for
causing an irritation of the skin, which lasted till I was able to have another
wash and change.
Pleasant as my life was with the Ambulance, I felt I ought to go back
and join my Brigade. I got a ride to the transport at Brielen, and there,
under a waggon cover, had a very happy home. Near us an Imperial battery
fired almost incessantly all night long. While lying awake one night
thinking of the men that had gone, and wondering what those ardent spirits
were now doing, the lines came to me which were afterwards published in
“The Times”:
“REQUIESCANT”
we were ordered off to rest. Our first stop was near Vlamertinghe. We
reached it in the afternoon, and, chilly though it was, I determined to have
a bath. Murdoch MacDonald got a bucket of water from a green and slimy
pond and put it on the other side of a hedge, and there I retired to have a
wash and change. I was just in the midst of the process when, to my
confusion, the Germans began to shell the adjoining field, and splinters of
shell fell in the hedge behind me. The transport men on the other side called
out to me to run and take cover with them under the waggons. “I can’t,
boys,” I replied, “I have got no clothes on.” They roared with laughter at
my plight. Though clothes are not at all an impregnable armour, somehow
or other you feel safer when you are dressed. There was nothing for it but
to complete my ablutions, which I did so effectually in the cold spring air
that I got a chill. That night I was racked with pains as I rode on the horse
which the M.O. lent me, on our march to Bailleul.
We arrived in the quaint old town about two in the morning, and I made
my way in the dark to the hotel in the Square. I was refused admission on
the reasonable plea that every bed was already occupied. I was just turning
away, wondering where I could go, for I was hardly able to stand up, when
an officer came out and said I might go up to a room on the top storey and
get into his bed as he would need it no more. It was quite delightful, not
only to find a bed, but one which had been so nicely and wholesomely
warmed. I spent a most uncomfortable night, and in the morning I
wondered if my batman would find out where I was and come and look
after me. About ten o’clock I heard a knock at the door and called out
“Come in.” To my astonishment, a very smart staff officer, with a brass hat
and red badges, made his way into my room, and startled me by saying, “I
am the Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General.” “Oh,” I said, “I was hoping you
were my batman.” He laughed at that and told me his business. There had
been a report that one of our Highlanders had been crucified on the door of
a barn. The Roman Catholic Chaplain of the 3rd Brigade and myself had
tried to trace the story to its origin. We found that the nearest we could get
to it was, that someone had told somebody else about it. One day I managed
to discover a Canadian soldier who said he had seen the crucifixion
himself. I at once took some paper out of my pocket and a New Testament
and told him, “I want you to make that statement on oath and put your
signature to it.” He said, “It is not necessary.” But he had been talking so
much about the matter to the men around him that he could not escape. I
had kept his sworn testimony in my pocket and it was to obtain this that the
Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General had called upon me. I gave it to him and
told him that in spite of the oath, I thought the man was not telling the truth.
Weeks afterwards I got a letter from the Deputy-Judge telling me he had
58 Festubert and Givenchy
found the man, who, when confronted by a staff officer, weakened, and said
he was mistaken in swearing that he had seen the crucifixion he had only
been told about it by someone else. We have no right to charge the
Germans with the crime. They have done so many things equally bad, that
we do not need to bring charges against them of which we are not quite
sure.
The Brigade was quartered in the little village of Steenje. It was a
pretty place, and it was delightful to be back in the peaceful country again.
May was bringing out the spring flowers and the trees wore fresh green
leaves. There was something about the exhilarating life we were leading
which made one extremely sensitive to the beauties of nature. I have never
cared much for flowers, except in a general way. But now I noticed a great
change. A wild flower growing in a ditch by the wayside seemed to me to
be almost a living thing, and spoke in its mute way of its life of peace and
contentment, and mocked, by its very humility, the world of men which was
so full of noise and death. Colour too made a most powerful appeal to the
heart. The gleam of sunlight on the moss that covered an old thatched roof
gave one a thrill of gladness. The world of nature putting on its fresh spring
dress had its message to hearts that were lonely and anxious, and it was a
message of calm courage and hope. In Julian Grenfell’s beautiful poem
“Into Battle,” he notes this message of the field and trees. Everything in
nature spoke to the fighting man and gave him its own word of cheer.
Of course all the men did not show they were conscious of these
emotional suggestions, but I think they felt them nevertheless. The green
fields and shining waters around Steenje had a very soothing effect upon
minds that had passed through the bitterest ordeal in their life’s experience.
I remember one morning having a service of Holy Communion in the open
air. Everything was wonderful and beautiful. The golden sunlight was
streaming across the earth in full radiance. The trees were fresh and green,
and hedges marked out the field with walls of living beauty. The grass in
the meadow was soft and velvety, and, just behind the spot where I had
placed the altar, a silver stream wandered slowly by. When one adds to
such a scene, the faces of a group of earnest, well-made and heroic young
men, it is easily understood that the beauty of the service was complete.
When it was over, I reminded them of the twenty-third Psalm, “He maketh
me to lie down in green pastures; He leadeth me beside the still waters.”
There too was the table prepared before us in the presence of our enemies.
At Steenje, as no billet had been provided for me, the Engineers took
me in and treated me right royally. Not only did they give me a pile of
straw for a bed in the dormitory upstairs, but they also made me an
honorary member of their mess. Of the work of the “Sappers,” in the Great
Festubert and Givenchy 59
War, one cannot speak too highly. Brave and efficient, they were always
working and co-operating enthusiastically with the infantry. Every week
now that passed was deepening that sense of comradeship which bound our
force together. The mean people, the men who thought only of themselves,
were either being weeded out or taught that there was no place for
selfishness in the army. One great lesson was impressed upon me in the
war, and that is, how wonderfully the official repression of wrong thoughts
and jealousies tends to their abolition. A man who lets his wild fancies free,
and gives rein to his anger and selfishness, is going to become the victim
of his own mind. If people at home could only be prevented, as men were
in the war, from saying all the bitter and angry things they feel, and from
criticising the actions of their neighbours, a different temper of thought
would prevail. The comradeship men experienced in the Great War was due
to the fact that everyone knew comradeship was essential to our happiness
and success. It would be well if all over Canada men realized that the same
is true of our happiness and success in times of peace. What might we not
accomplish if our national and industrial life were full of mutual sympathy
and love!
Our rest at Steenje was not of long duration. Further South another
attack was to be made and so one evening, going in the direction whither
our troops were ordered, I was motored to the little village of Robecq.
There I managed to get a comfortable billet for myself in the house of a
carpenter. My bedroom was a tiny compartment which looked out on the
backyard. It was quite delightful to lie in a real bed again and as I was
enjoying the luxury late in the morning I watched the carpenter making a
baby’s coffin. Robecq then was a very charming place. The canal, on which
was a hospital barge, gave the men an opportunity for a swim, and the
spring air and the sunshine put them in high spirits.
It was at Robecq, that I had my first sight of General Haig. I was
standing in the Square one afternoon when I saw the men on the opposite
side spring suddenly to attention. I felt that something was going to happen.
To my astonishment, I saw a man ride up carrying a flag on a lance. He was
followed by several other mounted men. It was so like a pageant that I said
to myself, “Hello, here comes Joan of Arc.” Then a general appeared with
his brilliant staff. The General advanced and we all saluted, but he, spying
my chaplain’s collar, rode over to me and shook hands and asked if I had
come over with the Canadians. I told him I had. Then he said, “I am so glad
you have all come into my Army.” I did not know who he was or what army
we were in, or in fact what the phrase meant, but I thought it was wise to
say nice things to a general, so I told him we were all very glad too. He
seemed gratified and rode off in all the pomp and circumstance of war. I
60 Festubert and Givenchy
heard afterwards that he was General Haig, who at that time commanded
the First Army. He had from the start, the respect of all in the British
Expeditionary Force.
A sudden call “to stand to,” however, reminded us that the war was not
yet won. The Brigadier told me that we had to move the next morning at
five. Then he asked me how I was going and I quoted my favourite text,
“The Lord will provide.” My breakfast at 3:30 next morning consisted of
a tin of green peas without bread or other adulterations and a cup of coffee.
At five a.m. I started to walk, but it was not long before I was overtaken by
the car of an artillery officer, and carried, in great glory, past the General
and his staff, whose horses we nearly pushed into the ditch on the narrow
road. The Brigadier waved his hand and congratulated me upon the way in
which Providence was looking after me. That afternoon our brigade was
settled in reserve trenches at Lacouture. There were a number of Ghurka
regiments in the neighbourhood, as well as some Guards battalions. I had
a service for the bomb-throwers in a little orchard that evening, and I found
a billet with the officers of the unit in a particularly small and dirty house
by the wayside.
Some of us lay on the floor and I made my bed on three chairs–a style
of bed which I said I would patent on my return to Canada. The chairs, with
the middle one facing in the opposite direction to prevent one rolling off,
were placed at certain distances where the body needed special support, and
made a very comfortable resting place, free from those inhabitants which
infested the ordinary places of repose. Of course we did not sleep much,
and somebody, amid roars of laughter called for breakfast about two-thirty
a.m. The cook who was sleeping in the same room got up and prepared
bacon and coffee, and we had quite an enjoyable meal, which did not
prevent our having a later one about nine a.m., after which, I beguiled the
time by reading aloud Leacock’s “Arcadian Adventures with the Idle Rich.”
Later in the day, I marched off with our men who were going into the
trenches, for the battle of Festubert. We passed the place called Indian
Village and went to the trenches just beyond.
We met a bearer-party bringing out a young German prisoner who was
badly wounded. I went over to him and offered him a cigarette. This he
declined, but asked for some water, putting out his dry tongue to show how
parched it was. I called to some of our men to know if they could spare him
a drink. Several gladly ran across and offered their water-bottles. They
were always kind to wounded prisoners. “If thine enemy thirst give him
drink.” Just before the men went into the trenches, I shook hands with one
or two and then, as they passed up, half the battalion shook hands with me.
I was glad they did, but at the same time I felt then that it was not wise for
Festubert and Givenchy 61
farmhouse, passed the sentry, and was admitted to the presence of two
young officers of the Glasgow Highlanders. I told them who I was and how
I had been bidden by the patrol officer to seek refuge with them. They
received me most cordially and told me they had a spare heap of straw in
the room. They not only said they would arrange for me for the night, but
they called their servant and told him to get me some supper. They said I
looked worn out. A good dish of ham and eggs and a cup of strong tea at
that time were most refreshing and when I had finished eating, seeing a
copy of the Oxford Book of Verse on the table, I began to read it to them,
and finally, and quite naturally, found myself later on, about one a.m.,
reciting my own poems. It was most interesting meeting another set of men.
The barn, which was kept as a prison for Germans was large and
commodious. As we took only five or six prisoners at that time, it was more
than sufficient for the purpose. The officers told me that the reason why so
few prisoners turned up was that the Canadians got tired of their charges
before they arrived at the prison, and only handed over a few as souvenirs.
I really think the Scotsmen believed it. The Glasgow men moved away and
were succeeded by a company of Argyle and Sutherland Highlanders. The
tables were now turned, for as I had kept on inhabiting the large room with
the three heaps of straw in it, the two officers who came “to take over”
asked my permission to make their billet in the prison.
In the meantime, the fighting in the trenches was very fierce. I spent my
days in parish visiting and my nights at the various dressing stations. The
batteries of artillery were all round us in the fields and orchards, and there
was great concentration of British and Canadian guns. In spite of the
brigadier’s orders, I often went east of Headquarters. One lovely Sunday
evening I had a late service for men of the 16th Battalion in an orchard.
They were going off later into No Man’s Land on a working party. The
service, which was a voluntary one, had therefore an underlying pathos in
it. Shells were falling in the fields on both sides of us. The great red sunset
glowed in the west and the trees overhead cast an artistic gray green light
upon the scene. The men were facing the sunset, and I told them as usual
that there lay Canada. The last hymn was “Abide with Me,” and the words,
“Hold Thou Thy Cross before my closing eyes,” were peculiarly touching
in view of the fact that the working party was to start as soon as the service
was ended. At Festubert our Cavalry Brigade, now deprived of their horses,
joined us, and I remember one morning seeing Colonel, now General,
Macdonell, coming out of the line at the head of his men. They were few
in number and were very tired, for they had had a hard time and had lost
many of their comrades. The Colonel, however, told them to whistle and
keep step to the tune, which they were doing with a gallantry which showed
Festubert and Givenchy 63
that, in spite of the loss of their horses, the spirit of the old squadron was
still undaunted.
Our batteries round Le Touret were very heavily and systematically
shelled, and of course rumour had it that there were spies in the
neighbourhood. The French Police were searching for Germans in British
uniforms, and everyone felt that some of the inhabitants might be housing
emissaries from the German lines. Some said lights were seen flashing from
farmhouses; others averred that the French peasants signalled to the enemy
by the way they ploughed their fields and by the colour of the horses used.
In Belgium we were told that the arrangement of the arms of windmills
gave away the location of our troops. At any rate everyone had a bad attack
of spy-fever, and I did not escape it. One night about half past ten I was
going down a dark road to get my letters from the post office, when an
officer on a bicycle came up to me and, dismounting, asked me where a
certain British Artillery Brigade was. I was not concerned with the number
of the brigade, but I was horrified to hear the officer pronounce his “rs” in
the back of his throat. Of course, when we are not at war with Germany, a
man may pronounce his “rs” however he pleases, but when we are at war
with the great guttural hordes of Teutons it is different. The moment I heard
the sepulchral “r” I said, “This man is a German.” He told me he had come
from the Indian Army and had a message for the artillery brigade. I took
him by subtlety, thinking all was fair in war, and I asked him to come with
me. I made for the billet of our signallers and told the sentry that the officer
wanted a British brigade. At the same time I whispered to the man to call
out the guard, because I thought the stranger was a spy.
The sentry went into the house, and in a few seconds eager Canadians
with fixed bayonets came out of the building and surrounded the
unfortunate officer. Canadians were always ready for a bit of sport. When
I saw my man surrounded, I asked him for his pass. He appeared very much
confused and said he had none, but had come from the Indian Army. What
made us all the more suspicious was the fact that he displayed a squared
map as an evidence of his official character. I told him that anybody could
get a squared map. “Do you take me for a spy?” he said. I replied gently
that we did, and that he would have to come to Headquarters and be
identified. He had an ugly looking revolver in his belt, but he submitted
very tamely to his temporary arrest. I was taking him off to our
Headquarters, where strange officers were often brought for purposes of
identification, when a young Highland Captain of diminutive stature, but
unbounded dignity, appeared on the scene with four patrol men. He told me
that as he was patrolling the roads for the capture of spies, he would take
over the custody of my victim. The Canadians were loath to lose their prey.
64 Festubert and Givenchy
So we all followed down the road. After going a short distance, the
signallers had to return to their quarters, much to my regret, for it seemed
to me that the safety of the whole British Army depended on our capturing
the spy, and I knew I could depend upon the Canadians. However I made
up my mind that I would follow to the bitter end.
The Highlander put the officer between us and, followed by the four
patrol men, we went off down a lonely road. The moon had now risen.
After walking about half a mile we came to a large barn, outside of which
stood a sentry. It was the billet of a battalion of Highlanders. I told the man
privately, that we had arrested the officer under suspicion of his being a
spy, and if the sentry on duty should see him coming back along the road,
he was to detain him and have him identified. As we walked along, a
number of men who had been concealed in the ditches on each side of the
road rose up and followed us. They were men of the patrol commanded by
the young Highlander on the other side of our prisoner. It was a delightfully
weird experience. There was the long quiet moonlit road and the desolate
fields all around us. While I was talking to one of the men, the patrol
officer, unknown to me, allowed the spy to go off on his wheel, and to my
astonishment when I turned I saw him going off down the road as hard as
he could. I asked the officer why he had let him go. He said he thought it
was all right and the man would be looked after. Saying this, he called his
patrol about him and marched back again. The thing made me very angry.
It seemed to me that the whole war might depend on our capturing the spy.
At least, I owed it to the British Army to do my best to be certain the man
was all right before I let him go. So I continued to follow him by myself
down the road. The next farm I came to was about a mile off. There I was
halted by a sentry, and on telling my business I was shown into a large
barn, where the sergeant-major of a Scottish battalion got out of the straw
and came to talk to me. He told me that an officer riding a wheel had passed
sometime before, asking his way to a certain artillery brigade. I told the
sergeant-major my suspicions and while we were talking, to our
astonishment, the sentry announced that the officer, accompanied by a
Black Watch despatch rider, had turned up again, having heard that the
brigade he wanted was in the other direction.
The sergeant and I went out and challenged him and said that he had to
come to the colonel and be identified. The colonel was in the back room of
a little cottage on the other side of the road. I made my way through the
garden and entered the house. The colonel, an oldish man, was sitting at a
table. In front of him was an empty glass and an empty whisky bottle. It
struck me from a superficial glance that the colonel was the only full thing
in the room. He seemed surprised at having so late a visitor. I told him my
Festubert and Givenchy 65
should ride on to the Brigade Headquarters and find out if an Indian officer
was expected there. He promised to come back as soon as possible and
meet me in the road. We trusted that the bottle of whiskey in the Colonel’s
billet would cause sufficient delay for this to be accomplished. The night
was cool and beautiful and the sense of an adventure added charm to the
situation. I had not gone far down the road when to my horror I heard a
wheel coming behind me, and turning, I saw my spy coming towards me as
fast as he could. I was not of course going to let him get past. The added
information as to the character of the wheel gave me even greater
determination to see that everything was done to protect the army from the
machinations of a German spy.
I stood in the road and stopped the wheel. The poor man had to
dismount and walk beside me. I wished to delay him long enough for the
despatch rider to return with his message from the Brigade. Our
conversation was a trifle forced, and I remember thinking that if my friend
was really a British officer he would not have submitted quite so tamely to
the interference of a Padré. Then I looked at the revolver in his belt, and I
thought that, if, on the other hand, he was a German spy he would probably
use his weapon in that lonely road and get rid of the man who was
impeding his movements. We went on till we came to the sentry whom I
had warned at first. At once, we were challenged, “Halt, who are you?” and
the suspected spy replied “Indian Army.” But the sentry was not satisfied,
and to my delight he said, “You will both have to come in and be
identified.” We were taken into the guardroom and told that we should have
to stay there for the night. My friend got very restless and said it was too
bad to be held up like this. I looked anxiously down the road to see if there
were any signs of the returning despatch rider. The sentries were obdurate
and said they wouldn’t let us go till we could be identified in the morning.
Then the officer requested that he might be sent to the Brigade under
escort. The sergeant asked me if that would meet with my approval. I said,
“Certainly,” and so, turning out three members of the guard with fixed
bayonets, they marched us off towards the Brigade. The spy had a man with
a fixed bayonet on each side of him: they gave me only one. I felt that this
was a slight upon my manhood, and asked why they did not put a soldier
on each side of me too, as I was as good a man as the other. It was a queer
procession in the moonlight. At last we came to the orchard in which stood
the billet of the General commanding the Artillery Brigade. I was delighted
to find that some Canadian Batteries were there, and told the men what my
mission was. They instantly, as true Canadians, became fired with interest
and spy-fever. When we got to the house I asked to see the General. He was
asleep in a little room off the kitchen. I was shown in, and he lit a candle
Festubert and Givenchy 67
and proceeded to get up. I had never seen a general in bed before, so was
much interested in discovering what he looked like and how he was
dressed. I found that a general in war time goes to bed in his underclothes,
like an ordinary private. The General got up and went outside and put the
spy through a series of questions, but he did so in a very sleepy voice, and
with a perfunctory manner which seemed to me to indicate that he was
more concerned about getting back to bed than he was in saving the army
from danger. He told the officer that it was too late then to carry on the
business for which he had come, but that he would see about it in the
morning. The spy with a guttural voice then said, “I suppose I may go, Sir?”
and the General said, “Certainly.” Quickly as possible, fearing a further
arrest, the stranger went out, took his wheel, and sped down the road. When
I went into the garden, I found a number of men from one of our
ambulances. They had turned up with stolen rifles and were waiting with
the keenest delight to join in “Canon Scott’s spy hunt.” Imagine therefore,
their disappointment when the officer came out a free man, answered the
sentry’s challenge on the road, and disappeared in the distance.
On the following day, the French military police came to my billet and
asked for particulars about the Indian officer. They told Murdoch
MacDonald that they were on the lookout for a German spy who was
reported to be going about through our lines dressed in a British uniform.
He had been seen at an observation post, and was making enquiries which
aroused suspicions. This of course made me more sorry than ever that I had
allowed the spy to get through my fingers. Like the man the French police
were after, the officer was fair, had a light moustache and was of good size
and heavily built.
My adventures with my friend did not end there. When we had left
Festubert and got to the neighbourhood of Bethune, I took two young
privates one day to have lunch with me in a French hotel near the Square.
We were just beginning our meal when to my astonishment the suspected
spy, accompanied by a French interpreter, sat down at an opposite table. He
looked towards me but made no sign of recognition–a circumstance which
I regarded as being decidedly suspicious. I naturally did not look for any
demonstration of affection from him, but I thought he might have shown,
if he were an honest man, that he remembered one who had caused him so
much inconvenience. Once more the call of duty came to my soul. I felt that
this man had dodged the British authorities and was now giving his
information to a French interpreter to transmit it at the earliest possible
moment to the Germans. I told my young friends to carry on as if nothing
had happened, and excusing myself, said I would come back in a few
minutes. I went out and inquired my way to the Town Major’s office.
68 Festubert and Givenchy
There, I stated the object of my journey and asked for two policemen to
come back with me and mount guard till I identified a suspicious looking
officer. I then returned and finished my lunch. When the officer and the
interpreter at the conclusion of their meal went out into the passage, I
followed them and asked for their identification. The officer made no
attempt to disguise or check his temper. He said that there must be an end
to this sort of work. But the arrival of the two policemen in the passage
showed that he had to do what I asked him. This he did, and the interpreter
also, and the police took their names and addresses. Then I let my friends
go, and heard them depart into the street hurling denunciations and threats
of vengeance upon my devoted and loyal head.
It was about a week or ten days afterwards that I was called into our
own Brigadier’s office. He held a bundle of letters in his hand stamped with
all sorts of official seals. The gist of it all was that the G.O.C. of the Indian
Division in France had reported to General Alderson the extraordinary and
eccentric conduct of a Canadian Chaplain, who persisted in arresting a
certain British officer whenever they happened to meet. He wound up with
this cutting comment, “The conduct of this chaplain seems to fit him rather
for a lunatic asylum than for the theatre of a great war.” Of course
explanations were sent back. It was explained to the General that reports
had reached us of the presence in our lines of a German spy in British
uniform, who from the description given, resembled the Indian officer in
all particulars.
It is needless to say that every one was immensely amused at “the
Canon’s spy story,” and I mentally resolved that I would be more careful
in the future about being carried away by my suspicions. I told people
however that I would rather run the risk of being laughed at over making
a mistake than to let one real spy escape.
Festubert made a heavy toll upon our numbers, and we were not sorry
when we were ordered out of the line and found ourselves quartered in the
neighbourhood of Bethune. Bethune at that time was a delightful place. It
was full of people. The shops were well provided with articles for sale, and
a restaurant in the quaint Grande Place, with its Spanish tower and Spanish
houses, was the common meeting ground of friends. The gardens behind
private residences brought back memories of pre-war days. The church was
a beautiful one, built in the 16th century. The colours of the windows were
especially rich. It was always delightful to enter it and think how it had
stood the shock and turmoil of the centuries.
One day when I was there the organ was being played most beautifully.
Sitting next to me in a pew, was a Canadian Highlander clad in a very dirty
uniform. He told me that a friend of his had been killed beside him
Festubert and Givenchy 69
biblical, just like riding a camel. As for bad kidneys, both Dandy and I were
teetotallers and we could arrest disease by our temperance habits. The
weakness of knees too was no objection in my eyes. In fact, I had so long,
as a parson, sat over weak-kneed congregations that I felt quite at home
sitting on a weak-kneed horse.
Poor dear old Dandy, many were the rides we had together. Many were
the jumps we took. Many were the ditches we tumbled into. Many were the
unseen barbed wires and overhanging telephone wires which we broke, you
with your chest and I with my nose and forehead. Many were the risks we
ran in front of batteries in action which neither of us had observed till we
found ourselves deafened with a hideous explosion and wrapped in flame.
I loved you dearly, Dandy, and I wish I could pull down your soft face
towards mine once again, and talk of the times when you took me down
Hill 63 and along Hyde Park corner at Ploegsteert. Had I not been wounded
and sent back to England at the end of the war, I would have brought you
home with me to show to my family–a friend that not merely
uncomplainingly but cheerfully, with prancing feet and arching neck and
well groomed skin, bore me safely through dangers and darkness, on
crowded roads and untracked fields. What dances we have had together,
Dandy, when I have got the bands to play a waltz and you have gone
through the twists and turns of a performance in which you took an evident
delight! I used to tell the men that Dandy and I always came home together.
Sometimes I was on his back and sometimes he was on mine, but we
always came home together.
A few days later my establishment was increased by the purchase of a
well-bred little white fox-terrier. He rejoiced in the name of Philo and
became my inseparable companion. The men called him my curate. Dandy,
Philo and I made a family party which was bound together by very close
ties of affection. Though none of us could speak the language of the others,
yet the sympathy of each enabled us to understand and appreciate one
another’s opinions. I always knew what Dandy thought and what he would
do. I always knew too what Philo was thinking about. Philo had a great
horror of shells. I put this down to the fact that he was born at Beuvry, a
place which had been long under shell-fire. When he heard a shell coming
in his direction, Philo used to go to the door of the dugout and listen for the
explosion, and then come back to me in a state of whining terror. He could
not even stand the sound of our own guns. It made him run round and round
barking and howling furiously.
It was while we were out in rest at Bethune that I was told I could go
on a week’s leave to London. I was glad of this, not only for the change of
scene, but for the sake of getting new clothes. I awoke in the early morning
Festubert and Givenchy 71
and listened to the French guns pounding away wearily near Souchez. At
noon I started with a staff officer in a motor for Boulogne. It was a lovely
day, and as we sped down the road through little white unspoilt villages and
saw peaceful fields once again, it seemed as if I were waking from a
hideous dream. That evening we pulled in to Victoria Station, and heard the
Westminster chimes ringing out half past eight.
72
eave in London during the war never appealed to me. I always felt like
L a fish out of water. When I went to concerts and theatres, all the time
amid the artistic gaiety of the scene I kept thinking of the men in the
trenches, their lonely vigils, their dangerous working parties, and the cold
rain and mud in which their lives were passed. And I thought too of the
wonderful patrol kept up on the dark seas, by heroic and suffering men who
guarded the life and liberty of Britain. The gaiety seemed to be a hollow
mockery. I was not sorry therefore when my week’s leave was over and I
went back to the line. A staff officer whom I met on the leave boat
informed me that the Division had changed its trenches, and my Brigade
had left Bethune. We had a most wonderful run in the staff car from
Boulogne, and in two hours arrived at the Brigade Headquarters at Steenje,
near Bailleul. There, with my haversacks, I was left by the staff car at
midnight and had to find a lodging place. The only light I saw was in the
upper windows of the Curé’s house, the rest of the village was in complete
darkness. I knocked on the door and, after a few minutes, the head and
shoulders of a man in pyjamas looked out from the window and asked me
who I was and what I wanted. On my giving my name and requesting
admission, he very kindly came down and let me in and gave me a bed on
the floor. On a mattress beside me was a young officer of the Alberta
Dragoons, only nineteen years of age. He afterwards joined the Flying
Corps and met his death by jumping out of his machine at an altitude of six
Ploegsteert – A Lull in Operations 73
thousand feet, when it was hit and burst into flames. The Alberta Dragoons
later on became the Canadian Light Horse, and were Corps Troops. At that
time, they were part of the 1st Division and were a magnificent body. The
practical elimination of cavalry in modern warfare has taken all the
romance and chivalry out of fighting. It is just as well however for the
world that the old feudal conception of war has passed away. The army will
be looked upon in the future as a class of citizens who are performing the
necessary and unpleasant task of policing the world, in order that the
rational occupations of human life may be carried on without interruption.
Brigade Headquarters now moved to a large farm behind the trenches
at Ploegsteert. I bid farewell to my friends of the Alberta Dragoons and
found a billet at La Crêche. From thence I moved to Romarin and made my
home in a very dirty little French farmhouse. The Roman Catholic chaplain
and I had each a heap of straw in an outhouse which was a kind of general
workroom. At one end stood a large churn, which was operated, when
necessary, by a trained dog, which was kept at other times in a cage. The
churn was the breeding place of innumerable blue-bottles, who in spite of
its savoury attractions annoyed us very much by alighting on our food and
on our faces. I used to say to my friend, the chaplain, when at night we had
retired to our straw beds and were reading by the light of candles stuck on
bully beef tins, that the lion and the lamb were lying down together. We
could never agree as to which of the animals each of us represented. At the
head of my heap of straw there was an entrance to the cellar. The ladies of
the family, who were shod in wooden shoes, used to clatter round our
slumbers in the early morning getting provisions from below. Life under
such conditions was peculiarly unpleasant. It was quite impossible too to
have a bath. I announced to the family one day that I was going to take one.
Murdoch MacDonald provided some kind of large tub which he filled with
dishes of steaming water. Instead however of the fact that I was about to
have a bath acting as a deterrent to the visits of the ladies, the
announcement seemed to have the opposite effect. So great were the
activities of the family in the cellar and round the churn that I had to
abandon the idea of bathing altogether. I determined therefore to get a tent
of my own and plant it in the field. I wrote to England and got a most
wonderful little house. It was a small portable tent. When it was set up it
covered a piece of ground six feet four inches square. The pole, made in
two parts like a fishing rod, was four feet six inches high. The tent itself
was brown, and made like a pyramid. One side had to be buttoned up when
I had retired. It looked very small as a place for human habitation. On one
side of the pole was my Wolseley sleeping bag, on the other a box in which
to put my clothes, and on which stood a lantern. When Philo and I retired
74 Ploegsteert – A Lull in Operations
for the night we were really very comfortable, but we were much annoyed
by earwigs and the inquisitiveness of the cows, who never could quite
satisfy themselves as to what we were. Many is the time we have been
awakened out of sleep in the morning by the sniffings and sighings of a
cow, who poked round my tent until I thought she had the intention of
swallowing us up after the manner in which the cow disposed of Tom
Thumb. At such times I would turn Philo loose upon the intruder. Philo
used to suffer at night from the cold, and would wake me up by insisting
upon burrowing his way down into my tightly laced valise. There he would
sleep till he got so hot that he woke me up again burrowing his way out. It
would not be long before once again the cold of the tent drove him to seek
refuge in my bed. I hardly ever had a night’s complete rest. Once I rolled
over on him, and, as he was a very fiery tempered little dog, he got very
displeased and began to snap and bark in a most unpleasant manner. As the
sleeping bag was tightly laced it was difficult to extract him. Philo waged
a kind of submarine warfare there until grasping his snout, I pulled him out
and refused all his further appeals for readmission.
My little tent gave me great comfort and a sense of independence. I
could go where I pleased and camp in the lines of the battalions when they
came out of the trenches. This enabled me to get into closer touch with the
men. One young western fellow said that my encampment consisted of a
caboose, my tent, a cayouse, which was Dandy, and a papoose, which was
my little dog, friend Philo. Now that I had a comfortable billet of my own
I determined that Romarin was too far from the men, so I removed my
settlement up to the Neuve Eglise road and planted it near some trees in the
field just below the row of huts called Bulford Camp. At this time,
Murdoch MacDonald went to the transport lines, and his place was taken
by my friend Private Ross, of the 16th Battalion, the Canadian Scottish. He
stayed with me to the end. We were very comfortable in the field. Ross
made himself a bivouac of rubber sheets. Dandy was picketed not far off
and, under the trees, my little brown pyramid tent was erected, with a rude
bench outside for a toilet table, and a large tin pail for a bath-tub. When the
battalions came out of the line and inhabited Bulford Camp and the huts of
Court-o-Pyp, I used to arrange a Communion Service for the men every
morning. At Bulford Camp the early morning services were specially
delightful. Not far off, was the men’s washing place, a large ditch full of
muddy water into which the men took headers. Beside it were long rows of
benches, in front of which the operation of shaving was carried on. The box
I used as an altar was placed under the green trees, and covered with the
dear old flag, which now hangs in the chancel of my church in Quebec. On
top was a white altar cloth, two candles and a small crucifix. At these
Ploegsteert – A Lull in Operations 75
services only about ten or a dozen men attended, but it was inspiring to
minister to them. I used to hear from time to time that so and so had been
killed, and I knew he had made his last Communion at one of such services.
It was an evidence of the changed attitude towards religion that the men in
general did not count it strange that soldiers should thus come to Holy
Communion in public. No one was ever laughed at or teased for doing so.
Neuve Eglise, at the top of the road, had been badly wrecked by
German shells. I went up there one night with an officer friend of mine, to
see the scene of desolation. We were halted by some of our cyclists who
were patrolling the road. Whenever they stopped me at night and asked who
I was I always said, “German spy,” and they would reply, “Pass, German
spy, all’s well.” My friend and I went down the street of the broken and
deserted village, which, from its position on the hill, was an easy mark for
shell fire. Not a living thing was stirring except a big black cat which ran
across our path. The moonlight made strange shadows in the roofless
houses. Against the west wall of the church stood a large crucifix still
undamaged. The roof had gone, and the moonlight flooded the ruins
through the broken Gothic windows. To the left, ploughed up with shells,
were the tombs of the civilian cemetery, and the whole place was ghostly
and uncanny.
Near the huts, on the hill at Bulford Camp was a hollow in the ground
which made a natural amphitheatre. Here at night concerts were given. All
the audience packed together very closely sat on the ground. Before us, at
the end of the hollow, the performers would appear, and overhead the calm
stars looked down. I always went to these entertainments well provided
with Players’ cigarettes. A neat trick was played upon me one night. I
passed my silver cigarette case round to the men and told them that all I
wanted back was the case. In a little while it was passed back to me. I
looked into it to see if a cigarette had been left for my use, when, to my
astonishment, I found that the case had been filled with De Reszke’s, my
favourite brand. I thanked my unknown benefactor for his graceful
generosity.
The field behind the huts at Court-o-Pyp was another of my favourite
camping grounds. It was on the Neuve Eglise side of the camp, and beyond
us was some barbed wire. About two o’clock one night I was aroused by an
excited conversation which was being carried on between my friend Ross
in his bivouac, and a soldier who had been dining late and had lost his way.
The young fellow had got it into his head that he had wandered into the
German lines, and Ross had great difficulty in convincing him that he was
quite safe. He was just going off with mind appeased when he caught sight
of my pyramid tent on a rise in the ground. “What’s that?” he cried in
76 Ploegsteert – A Lull in Operations
terror, evidently pointing towards my little house. “That’s the Rev. Major
Canon Scott’s billet” said Ross with great dignity from under his rubber
sheets, and the man went off in fear of his identity becoming known. He
afterwards became an officer and a very gallant one too, and finally lost a
leg in the service of his country. But many is the time I have chaffed him
about the night he thought he had wandered into the German lines.
One day when I had ridden up to Court-o-Pyp I found that a canteen
had just been opened there, and being urged to make a purchase for good
luck I bought a large bottle of tomato catsup, which I put into my saddle
bag. I noticed that the action was under the observation of the battalion,
which had just returned from the trenches and was about to be dismissed.
I mounted my horse and went over to the C.O. and asked if I might say a
word to the men before he dismissed them. He told me the men were tired,
but I promised not to keep them long. He called out, “Men, Canon Scott
wants to say a word to you before you are dismissed,” and they stood to
attention. “All I wanted to say to you, Boys, was this; that was a bottle of
tomato catsup which I put in my saddle bag, and not, as you thought, a
bottle of whiskey.” A roar of laughter went up from all ranks.
It was about this time that our Brigadier was recalled to England to take
over the command of a Division. We were all sincerely sorry to lose him
from the 3rd Brigade. He was ever a good and true friend, and took a deep
interest in his men. But the immediate effect of his departure, as far as I
was concerned, was to remove out of my life the hideous spectre of No. 2
General Hospital, and to give me absolute liberty in wandering through the
trenches. In fact, as I told him sometime afterwards, I was beginning a little
poem, the first line of which was “I never knew what freedom meant until
he went away.”
One day, General Seely invited me to go and stay with him at his
Headquarters in Westhof Farm where I had a most delightful time. Not only
was the General a most entertaining host, but his staff were very charming.
At dinner, we avoided war topics and shop, and talked about things
political and literary. The mess was in the farm building and our sleeping
quarters were on an island in the moat. My stay here brought me into
contact with the Canadian Cavalry Brigade, and a fine lot of men they were.
But a change in my fortunes was awaiting me. The Senior Chaplain of
the Division had gone back to England, and General Alderson sent for me
one day to go to Nieppe. There he told me he wished me to be Senior
Chaplain. I was not altogether pleased at the appointment, because it meant
that I should be taken away from my beloved 3rd Brigade. I told the General
so, but he assured me I should not have to stay all the time at Headquarters,
and could go with the 3rd Brigade as much as I pleased.
Ploegsteert – A Lull in Operations 77
In the square was a large building which had been used originally as
headquarters for the Intelligence Department. Later on, this building was
taken by the Bishop and used as the Chaplains’ Rest-Home. There is an
amusing story told of a despatch rider who came to the place with a
message for its original occupants, but when he inquired for the Intelligence
Department the orderly answered, “This is the Chaplains’ Rest Home, there
is no Intelligence here.” At St. Omer also was the office of the Principal
Chaplain who had under his charge all the Non-Conformist Chaplains at the
front. The very best relations existed between the various religious bodies,
and it was the endeavour of all the chaplains to see that every man got the
religious privileges of his own faith.
We arrived in the Ploegsteert area at a good time for the digging and
repairing of the trenches. The clay in Belgium in fine weather is easily
worked; consequently a most elaborate and well made system of trenches
was established in front of Messines. The brown sides of the trenches
became dry and hard in the sun, and the bath-mats along them made
walking easy. The trenches were named, “Currie Avenue,” “McHarg
Avenue,” “Seely Avenue,” and so forth. The men had their cookers and
primus stoves, and occupied their spare time in the line by cooking all sorts
of dainty dishes. Near the trenches on the other side of Hill 63 were several
ruined farm houses, known as “Le Perdu Farm,” “Ration Farm,” and one,
around which hovered a peculiarly unsavoury atmosphere, as “Stinking
Farm.” Hill 63 was a hill which ran immediately behind our trench area and
was covered at its right end with a delightful wood. Here were “Grand
Moncque Farm,” “Petit Moncque Farm,” “Kort Dreuve Farm” and the
“Piggeries.” All these farms were used as billets by the battalions who were
in reserve. In Ploegsteert Wood, “Woodcote Farm,” and “Red Lodge,” were
also used for the same purpose. The wood in those days was a very pleasant
place to wander through. Anything that reminded us of the free life of
nature acted as a tonic to the nerves, and the little paths among the trees
which whispered overhead in the summer breezes made one imagine that
one was wandering through the forests in Canada. In the wood were several
cemeteries kept by different units, very neatly laid out and carefully fenced
in. I met an officer one day who told me he was going up to the trenches
one evening past a cemetery in the wood, when he heard the sound of
someone sobbing. He looked into the place and there saw a young boy lying
beside a newly made grave. He went in and spoke to him and the boy
seemed confused that he had been discovered in his sorrow. “It’s the grave
of my brother, Sir,” he said, “He was buried here this afternoon and now I
have got to go back to the line without him.” The lad dried his eyes,
shouldered his rifle and went through the woodland path up to the trenches.
80 Ploegsteert – A Lull in Operations
No one would know again the inner sorrow that had darkened his life. The
farms behind the wood made really very pleasant homes for awhile. They
have all now been levelled to the ground, but at the time I speak of they
were in good condition and had many large and commodious buildings. At
Kort Dreuve there was a very good private chapel, which the proprietor
gave me the use of for my Communion Services. It was quite nice to have
a little Gothic chapel with fine altar, and the men who attended always
enjoyed the services there. Round the farm was a large moat full of good
sized gold-fish, which the men used to catch surreptitiously and fry for their
meals. “The Piggeries” was a large building in which the King of the
Belgians had kept a fine breed of pigs. It was very long and furnished inside
with two rows of styes built solidly of concrete. These were full of straw,
and in them the men slept.
I was visiting one of the battalions there one evening, when I heard that
they had been ordered to go back to the trenches before Sunday. I told some
of the men that I thought that, as they would be in the trenches on Sunday,
it would be a good idea if we had a voluntary service that evening. They
seemed pleased, so I collected quite a large congregation at one end of the
Piggeries, and was leading up to the service by a little overture in the shape
of a talk about the war outlook, when I became aware that there was a fight
going on at the other end of the low building, and that some of the men on
the outskirts of the congregation were beginning to get restive. I knew that
a voluntary service could not stand up against the rivalry of a fight, so I
thought I had better take the bull by the horns. I said, “Boys, I think there
is a fight going on at the ether end of the Piggeries, and perhaps it would be
well to postpone the service and go and see the fight, and then return and
carry on.” The men were much relieved and, amid great laughter, my
congregation broke loose and ran to the other end of the building, followed
by myself. The fight was soon settled by the intervention of a sergeant, and
then I said, “Now, Boys, let us go back to the other end and have the
service.” I thought the change of location might have a good effect upon
their minds and souls. So back we went again to the other end of the
building and there had a really enthusiastic and devout service. When it was
over, I told the men that nothing helped so much to make a service bright
and hearty as the inclusion of a fight, and that when I returned to Canada,
if at any time my congregation was listless or sleepy, I would arrange a
fight on the other side of the street to which we could adjourn and from
which we should return with renewed spiritual fervour. I have met many
men at different times who look back upon that service with pleasure.
We had a feeling that Ploegsteert was to be our home for a good long
time, so we settled down to our life there. We had visits from Sir Sam
Ploegsteert – A Lull in Operations 81
Hughes and Sir Robert Borden, and also Lord Kitchener. I was not present
when the latter inspected the men, but I asked one who was there what it
was like. “Oh Sir,” he replied, “we stood to attention, and Kitchener passed
down the lines very quietly and coldly. He merely looked at us with his
steely grey eyes and said to himself, “I wonder how many of these men will
be in hell next week.” General Hughes’ inspection of one of the battalions
near Ploegsteert Wood was interrupted by shells and the men were hastily
dismissed.
A visit to the trenches was now a delightful expedition. All the way
from Nieppe to Hill 63 one came upon the headquarters of some unit. At a
large farm called “Lampernise Farm” all the transports of the 3rd Brigade
were quartered. I used to have services for them in the open on a Sunday
evening. It was very difficult at first to collect a congregation, so I adopted
the plan of getting two or three men who could sing, and then going over
with them to an open place in the field, and starting some well known
hymn. One by one others would come up and hymn-books were distributed.
By the time the service was finished, we generally had quite a good
congregation, but it took a certain amount of courage and faith to start the
service. One felt very much like a little band of Salvationists in a city
square.
In spite of having a horse to ride, it was sometimes difficult to cover the
ground between the services on Sunday. One afternoon, when I had been
to the Cavalry Brigade at Petit Moncque Farm, I had a great scramble to get
back in time to the transport lines. In a bag hanging over the front of my
saddle, I had five hundred hymn books. Having taken a wrong turn in the
road I lost some time which it was necessary to make up, and, in my efforts
to make haste, the string of the bag broke and hymn books fluttered out and
fell along the road. Dandy took alarm, misunderstanding the nature of the
fluttering white things, and started to gallop. With two haversacks on my
back it was difficult to hold on to the bag of hymn books and at the same
time to prevent their loss. The more the hymn books fluttered out, the
harder Dandy bolted, and the harder Dandy bolted, the more the hymn
books fluttered out. At last I passed a soldier in the road and asked him to
come to my assistance. I managed to rein in the horse, and the man
collected as many of the hymn books as were not spoilt by the mud.
Knowing how hard it was and how long it took to get hymn books from the
Base, it was with regret that I left any behind. But then I reflected that it
might be really a scattering of the seed by the wayside. Some poor lone
soldier who had been wandering from the paths of rectitude might pick up
the hymns by chance and be converted. Indulging in such self consolation
I arrived just in time for the service.
82 Ploegsteert – A Lull in Operations
Services were never things you could be quite sure of until they came
off. Often I have gone to bed on Saturday night feeling that everything had
been done in the way of arranging for the following day. Battalions had
been notified, adjutants had put the hours of service in orders, and places
for the gatherings had been carefully located. Then on the following day,
to my intense disgust, I would find that all my plans had been frustrated.
Some general had taken it into his head to order an inspection, or some
paymaster had been asked to come down and pay off the men. The
Paymaster’s Parade, in the eyes of the men, took precedence of everything
else. A Church Service was nowhere in comparison. More often than I can
recollect, all my arrangements for services have been upset by a sudden
order for the men to go to a bathing parade. Every time this happened, the
Adjutant would smile and tell me, as if I had never heard it before, that
“cleanliness was next to godliness.” A chaplain therefore had his trials, but
in spite of them it was the policy of wisdom not to show resentment and to
hold one’s tongue. I used to look at the Adjutant, and merely remark
quietly, in the words of the Psalmist, “I held my tongue with bit and bridle,
while the ungodly was in my sight.”
People at Headquarters soon got accustomed to my absence and never
gave me a thought. I used to take comfort in remembering Poo Bah’s song
in the Mikado, “He never will be missed, he never will be missed.”
Sometimes when I have started off from home in the morning my sergeant
and Ross have asked me when I was going to return. I told them that if they
would go down on their knees and pray for illumination on the subject, they
might find out, but that I had not the slightest idea myself. A visit to the
trenches was most fascinating. I used to take Philo with me. He found much
amusement in hunting for rats, and would often wander off into No Man’s
Land and come back covered with the blood of his victims. One night I had
missed him for some time, and was whistling for him, when a sentry told
me that a white dog had been “captured” by one of the men with the
thought that it was a German police dog, and he had carried it off to
company headquarters under sentence of death. I hurried up the trench and
was just in time to save poor little Philo from a court martial. There had
been a warning in orders that day against the admission of dogs from the
German lines.
The men were always glad of a visit, and I used to distribute little
bronze crucifixes as I went along. I had them sent to me from London, and
have given away hundreds of them. I told the men that if anyone asked
them why they were at the war, that little cross with the patient figure of
self-sacrifice upon it, would be the answer. The widow of an officer who
was killed at Albert told me the cross which I gave her husband was taken
Ploegsteert – A Lull in Operations 83
from his dead body, and she now had it, and would wear it to her dying day.
I was much surprised and touched to see the value which the men set upon
these tokens of their faith. I told them to try to never think, say or do
anything which would make them want to take off the cross from their
necks.
The dugouts in which the officers made their homes were quite
comfortable, and very merry parties we have had in the little earth houses
which were then on the surface of the ground. One night when some new
officers had arrived to take over the line, one of the companies gave them
a dinner, consisting of five or six courses, very nicely cooked. We were
never far however, from the presence of the dark Angel, and our host on
that occasion was killed the next night. Our casualties at this time were not
heavy, although every day there were some men wounded or killed. The
shells occasionally made direct hits upon the trenches. I came upon a place
once which was terribly messed about, and two men were sitting by roaring
with laughter. They said their dinner was all prepared in their dugout, and
they had gone off to get some wood for the fire, when a shell landed and
knocked their home into ruins. They were preparing to dig for their kit and
so much of their dinner as would still be eatable. As they took the whole
matter as a joke, I joined with them in the laugh. One day as I was going up
the line, a young sapper was carried out on a sitting stretcher. He was hit
through the chest, and all the way along the bath mats was the trail of the
poor boy’s blood. He was only nineteen years of age, and had done
splendid work and won the admiration of all the men in his company. I had
a short prayer with him, and then saw him carried off to the dressing
station, where not long after he died. The sergeant who was with him was
exceedingly kind, and looked after the boy like a father. As the war went
on, the men were being united more and more closely in the bonds of a
common sympathy and a tender helpfulness. To the enemy, until he was
captured, they were flint and iron; to one another they were friends and
brothers.
It always took a long time to pass down the trenches. There were so
many men I knew and I could not pass them without a short conversation.
Time, in the line had really no meaning, except in the matter of “standing
to” or “changing guard.” On fine days, the life was not unpleasant. I
remember, however, on one dark rainy night, being in a trench in front of
Wulverghem. The enemy trenches were at that point only thirty-five yards
away. I was squeezed into a little muddy dugout with an officer, when the
corporal came and asked for a tot of rum for his men. They had been lying
out on patrol duty in the mud and rain in front of our trench for two hours.
Dandy was still the envy of our men in the transport lines, and one day
84 Ploegsteert – A Lull in Operations
I nearly lost him. I rode up to Hill 63. Just behind it was an orchard, and in
it there were two batteries of British Artillery, which were attached to our
Division. I was going up to the trenches that afternoon, so I gave the horse
some oats and tied him to a tree near the officers’ billet. I then went up over
the hill down to Ration Farm, and from thence into the line. It was quite
late in the afternoon, but walking through the trenches was easy when it
was not raining. I was returning about 10 o’clock, when the second in
command of the 16th Battalion asked me to wait for him and we would
come out together over the open. It must have been about midnight when
I started with the Major, and another officer. The night was dark and it was
rather a scramble, but the German flare lights would go up now and then
and show us our course. Suddenly a machine gun opened up, and we had
to lie on our faces listening to the swish of the flying bullets just overhead.
I turned to the officer next to me and asked him how long he had been at
the front. He said he had only arrived that afternoon at four o’ clock. I told
him it wasn’t always like this, and we laughed over the curious life to
which he had been so recently introduced. We finally made our way to
Ration Farm and as I had a long ride before me, I determined to go back. I
was very hungry, as I had had nothing to eat since luncheon. I went into a
cellar at Ration Farm and there found one of the men reading by the light
of a candle supported on tins of bully-beef. I asked him for one of these and
he gladly gave it to me. As I started up the hill on the long straight road
with trees on either side, I tried to open the tin with the key, but as usual it
broke and left only a little crack through which with my penknife I
extracted strings of beef. I could not use my flashlight, as the hill was in
sight of the enemy, so I had to content myself with what nourishment I was
able to obtain. Half way up the hill I noticed a tall figure standing by one
of the trees. I thought he might be a spy but I accosted him and found he
was one of the Strathcona Horse who had a working party in the trenches
that night. I told him my difficulty, and he got his knife and very kindly
took off the top of the tin. By this time a drizzling rain was falling and the
night was decidedly uncomfortable. I went over the hill and down to the
orchard, and made my way to the tree to which poor old Dandy had been
tied so many hours before. There, I found the tree just where I had left it–it
was of no use to me, as, like the barren fig tree, it had no fruit upon it, but
to my horror the horse, which was so necessary, had disappeared. I scoured
the orchard in vain looking for my faithful friend, and then I went over to
the Artillery officers’ house and told them my trouble. We all decided that
it was too late to search any longer, I was provided with a mackintosh, and
determined to make my way over to Petit Moncque Farm where the 3rd
Infantry Brigade Headquarters were. It was a long walk and the roads were
Ploegsteert – A Lull in Operations 85
sloppy. The path I took led through a field of Indian corn. This, though not
ripe and not cooked, would remind me of Canada, so with my search-light
I hunted for two or three of the hardest ears, and then, fortified with these,
made my way over towards the farm.
From past experience, I knew that a sentry was stationed somewhere in
the road. The sudden challenge of a sentry in the dark always gave me a
fright, so I determined this time to be on the watch and keep from getting
a surprise. However when I arrived at the place where the man usually
stood, no one challenged me. I thought that perhaps on account of the night
being rainy and uncomfortable he had retired to the guard room, and I
walked along with a free mind. I was just near the large gateway, however,
when a most stentorian voice shouted out, “Halt, who goes there?” and at
the same instant in the darkness I saw the sudden flash of a bayonet
flourished in my direction. Not expecting such an event, I could not for the
moment think of what I ought to say, but I called out in equally stentorian
tones, “For heaven’s sake, my boy, don’t make such a row; its only Canon
Scott and I have lost my horse.” A burst of laughter greeted my
announcement, and the man told me that, seeing somebody with a flashlight
at that time of the night wandering through the fields, and searching for
something, he had become convinced that a German spy was at work
cutting the telephone wires that led back to the guns, so he had got near the
guard room where he could obtain assistance, and awaited my approach in
the darkness. It was a great relief to get to headquarters, and the officer on
duty kindly lent me his comfortable sleeping bag. The next morning I made
my way back to Nieppe, and telegraphed to the various units, searching for
Dandy. Later on, in the afternoon, he was brought in by a man of the
Strathcona Horse. His story was that the intelligent animal had untied
himself from the tree and followed the working party home from the
orchard. It is most likely that he had preceded them. Luckily for me, their
quartermaster had recognized him in the Strathcona lines, and, being an
honest man, had sent him back. The incident taught me a great and useful
lesson, and in future I was very careful to see that my horse was safely
guarded whenever I had to leave him.
Our signallers had been active in setting up a wireless telegraph in a
field near Headquarters and were able to get the various communiqués
which were sent out during the night by the different nations. The
information was passed round Headquarters every morning on typewritten
sheets and made most interesting reading. We were able to anticipate the
news detailed to us in the papers. Later on, however, someone in authority
put an end to this and we were deprived of our Daily Chronicle.
About this time we heard that the 2nd Division was coming to France,
86 Ploegsteert – A Lull in Operations
and that the two Divisions, which would be joined by a third, were to be
formed into the Canadian Corps. This meant a very radical change in the
status of the old 1st Division. Up to this time we were “the Canadians”; now
we were only to be one among several divisions. General Alderson was to
take command of the Corps, and the question which was daily asked among
the officers at headquarters was, “Are you going to the Corps?” It was a
sundering of ties amongst our friends, and we felt sorry that our society
would be broken up. One of the staff officers asked me to write a poem on
his departure. I did so. It began–
My friend was not at all pleased at the implication contained in the first
two lines.
Bailleul was made Corps Headquarters, whither General Alderson
moved. His place at the division was taken by General Currie, who
afterwards commanded the Corps and led it to victory. The old town now
became a great Canadian centre. The General had comfortable quarters in
a large house, which was nicely furnished, and had an air of opulence about
it. The Grande Place was full of activity, and in the streets one met many
friends. The hotel offered an opportunity for afternoon tea and a tolerable
dinner. Besides this, there was the officers’ tea room, kept by some damsels
who provided cakes and served tea on little tables, like a restaurant in
London. Here we could be sure of meeting many of our friends and very
pleasant such gatherings were. In a large hall a concert took place every
evening. We had a very special one attended by several generals with their
staffs. The proceeds were given to the Canadian “Prisoners of War Fund.”
The concerts were most enjoyable and the real, artistic ability of some of
the performers, both Canadian and British, was remarkable. It was always
pleasant to live in the neighbourhood of a town, and the moment the men
came out of the trenches they wanted to clean up and go into Bailleul. After
a residence in the muddy and shaky little shacks in and behind the front
lines, to enter a real house and sit on a real chair with a table in front of you
was a great luxury.
There were several well-equipped hospitals in Bailleul. One large
British one had a nice chapel set aside for our use. In it one day we had a
Confirmation service which was very impressive, a number of candidates
being present.
Ploegsteert – A Lull in Operations 87
While Headquarters were at Nieppe the British attack upon Loos was
to take place, and it was arranged that the Canadians, in order to keep the
Germans busy in the North, were to make an attack. I happened to be
visiting “the Piggeries” in the afternoon previous. The 1st Battalion was in
the line. I heard the Colonel read out to the officers the orders for the
attack. We were not told that the whole thing was what our soldiers call “a
fake.” As he read the orders for the next morning, they sounded serious,
and I was invited to be present, which of course I gladly consented to. The
guns were to open fire at 4 a.m. I had been away from Headquarters for
some time so I determined to ride back and return later. At three o’clock
a.m. my servant woke me up and I had a cup of coffee, and started off on
Dandy to go up to “the Piggeries.” I took a tin of bully-beef with me, and
so was prepared for any eventuality. It was just before dawn and the
morning air was fresh and delightful. Dandy had had a good feed of oats
and was full of life. He seemed to enjoy the sport as much as I did. We rode
up the well known roads, and round their curious curves past the small
white farm houses, till we came into the neighbourhood of our batteries. All
of a sudden these opened fire. It was a splendid sound. Of all the music I
have ever heard in my life, none comes near the glorious organ sound of a
barrage. I look back with the greatest pleasure to that early morning ride
through the twilight lit up by gun flashes from batteries scattered along our
whole front. One great dread I always had, and that was the dread of being
killed by our own artillery. On this occasion, I had to ride down roads that
looked perilously near batteries in action. When I got to a corner near “the
Piggeries,” I was just stopped in time from what might have been my finish.
There was a concealed battery among the trees by the wayside, and I, not
knowing it was there, was about to ride by unconcernedly, when a gunner
came out from the bushes and stopped me just in time, telling me that in
half a minute the battery was going to open up. Dandy and I waited till the
guns had fired and then went on. Along our front line there was much stir
and commotion. Bundles of lighted straw making a hideous smoke were
poked over the trenches, and the whole night previous, all the limbers
available had been driven up and down the roads, making as much noise as
possible. The Germans were convinced we were preparing for an attack on
a big scale, and that the yellow smoke which they saw coming towards
them was some new form of frightfulness. Of course they returned our fire,
but our men knew by this time that the whole affair was only a pretence.
Far off to the South, however, there was a real battle raging, and the
cemeteries which we afterwards saw at Loos bore testimony to the bitter
struggle which the British forces endured.
The village of Ploegsteert behind the wood was very much damaged.
88 Ploegsteert – A Lull in Operations
Like the other villages at the front, it must at one time have been quite a
prosperous place. The church, before it was ruined, was well built and
capacious. There was a building on the main street which a British chaplain
had used as a clubhouse, and handed over to me when his division moved
south. It was well stocked with all things necessary to make the men
comfortable. It had a kitchen, reading rooms, and upstairs a chapel. Two or
three shells, however, had made their way into it, and the holes were
covered with canvas. The Mayor’s house was on the other side of the street,
and he had a young girl there as a servant, who kept the keys of the club.
The chaplain who moved away told me that this girl, when the town was
being heavily shelled one day, saved the lives of some men who were lying
wounded in the house, by carrying them on her back over to a place of
safety in a farmhouse. It was a deed that merited recognition, because she
had to pass down the road which was then under heavy shell fire. I brought
her case before the notice of the military authorities, and General Seely was
asked to take the matter up and make an application to the King for a
reward for the girl’s bravery. There was a doubt as to what award could be
given to her. We got the sworn testimony of the Mayor and other
eye-witnesses, and the document was finally laid before the King. It was
decided that she should receive the bronze medal of the Order of St. John
of Jerusalem. Later on General Alderson sent for me and took me to the
Mayor’s house in Romarin, where we had the ceremony of conferring the
medal. It was quite touching in its simplicity. The girl, who had a fine open
face, was on the verge of giving way to tears. The Mayor and some other
of the chief inhabitants were arrayed in their best clothes, and a Highland
regiment lent us their pipers. One of the citizens presented the heroine with
a large bouquet of flowers. General Alderson made a nice speech, which
was translated to the townsfolk, and then he presented the medal. We were
invited into the house, and the girl’s health was proposed and drunk by the
General in a glass of Romarin Champagne. We heard afterwards that the
country people were much impressed by the way the British Army had
recognized the gallantry of a poor Belgian maidservant.
One day a German aeroplane was brought down behind our lines, near
Ration Farm. Of its two occupants one was killed. On the aeroplane was
found a Colt machine-gun, which had been taken by the Germans from the
14th Battalion several months before, in the Second Battle of Ypres. It now
came back to the brigade which had lost it. I buried the airman near Ration
Farm, in a grave, which the men did up neatly and over which they erected
a cross with his name upon it.
Although our Headquarters were at Nieppe, the village was really in the
British Area, and so we were informed towards the end of November that
Ploegsteert – A Lull in Operations 89
great delight was a large bush of rosemary. The smell of it always carried
my mind back to peaceful times. It was like the odour of the middle ages,
with that elusive suggestion of incense which reminded me of Gothic fanes
and picturesque processions. Many elm trees fringed the fields, and made
a welcome shade along the sides of the road. A little stream ran through the
village and added its touch of beauty to the landscape. We were only a mile
and a half from Bailleul, so we could easily get up to the town either for a
concert or for dinner at the hotel. The Camp Commandant allotted me the
school house, which I fitted up as a chapel. It was very small, and not
particularly clean, but it served its purpose very well.
My only objection to St. Jans Cappel was that it was situated such a
long way from our men, for we still held the same front line near
Ploegsteert. It was now a ride of twelve miles to Hill 63 whither I
frequently had to go to take burial services, the round trip making a journey
of nearly twenty-four miles. The Bailleul road, which was my best route,
was a pavé road, and was hard on a horse. I did not want poor willing
Dandy to suffer from overwork, so I begged the loan of another mount from
Headquarters. It was a young horse, but big and heavily built, and had no
life in it. I was trotting down the road with him one day when he tumbled
down, and I injured my knee, causing me to be laid up with water on the
knee for about six weeks. The men used to chaff me about falling off my
horse, but I told them that I could sit on a horse as long as he stood up, but
I could not sit on the air when the horse lay down. I was very much afraid
that the A.D.M.S. would send me off to a hospital, but I got private
treatment from a doctor friend, who was acting A.D.C. to General Currie.
Luckily for me, things were pretty quiet at the front at that time, and my
being confined to the house did not really make much difference. I had a
supper in my billet one night for a number of Bishop’s College men. Of
those who attended, the majority have since made the supreme sacrifice,
but it was an evening which brought back many pleasant memories of our
Alma Mater.
The roads round St. Jans Cappel were very pretty, and I had many a
pleasant ride in our staff cars, which I, as Senior Chaplain, was permitted
to use. It was always a great delight to me to pick up men on the road and
give them a ride. I used to pile them in and give them as good a joy ride as
the chauffeur, acting under orders, would allow. One day, in a heavy
snowstorm, I picked up two nuns, whose garments were blowing about in
the blizzard in a hopeless condition. The sisters were glad of the chance of
a ride to Bailleul, whither they were going on foot through the snow. It was
against orders to drive ladies in our staff cars, but I thought the
circumstances of the case and the evident respectability of my guests would
Ploegsteert – A Lull in Operations 91
be a sufficient excuse for a breach of the rule. The sisters chatted in French
very pleasantly, and I took them to their convent headquarters in Bailleul.
I could see, as I passed through the village, how amused our men were at
my use of the car. When I arrived at the convent door at Bailleul, the good
ladies alighted and then asked me to give them my blessing. How could I
refuse, or enter upon a discussion of the validity of Anglican Orders? The
nuns with their hands crossed on their bosoms leaned forward, and I stood
up and blessed them from the car, and departed leaving them both grateful
and gratified.
The village of St. Jans Cappel had been captured by the Germans in
their advance in 1914, and we heard some unpleasant tales of the rudeness
of the German officers who took up their quarters in the convent and
compelled the nuns to wait upon them at the table. In 1918, when the
Germans made their big push round Mont Kemmel, St. Jans Cappel, along
with Bailleul and Meteren, was captured once more by the enemy, and the
village is now in ruins and its inhabitants scattered.
I do not look back with much pleasure to the cold rides which I always
used to have on my return from the line. In frosty weather the pavé roads
were very slippery, and I had to walk Dandy most of the distance, while I
got colder and colder, and beguiled the time by composing poems or
limericks on places at the front. Arriving at my billet in the small hours of
the morning, I would find my friend Ross not always in the best of humors
at being kept up so late. The ride back from Wulverghem or Dranoutre,
owing to the narrowness of the road and the amount of transport and lorries
upon it, was rather dangerous. It was a matter of ten miles to come back
from Wulverghem, and the roads were very dark. One night in particular I
had a narrow escape. I had mounted Dandy at the back of a farmhouse, but
for some reason or other I seemed to have lost control over him and he was
unusually lively. Luckily for me a man offered to lead him out into the
road, and just before he let him go discovered that the bit was not in his
mouth.
The Alberta Dragoons had billets in a side road that led to Bailleul. It
was a quiet and peaceful neighbourhood, and they had good barns for their
horses. In the fields they had splendid opportunities for training and
exercise. I often took service for them. One Sunday afternoon I had been
speaking of the necessity of purifying the commercial life of Canada on our
return, and I said something uncomplimentary about land speculators. I was
told afterwards that I had caused much amusement in all ranks, for every
man in the troop from the officers downwards, or upwards, was a land
speculator, and had town lots to sell in the West. In conversations with
privates and non-coms., I often found they had left good positions in
92 Ploegsteert – A Lull in Operations
severe strain, it was a revelation to them to find that there were principles
and relationships of divine origin which enabled the ordinary human will
easily to surmount difficulties moral and physical, and which gave a quiet
strength that nothing merely earthly could supply. Certainly the war gave
chaplains a splendid opportunity of bearing witness to the power of Christ.
A great deal has been written about the religion of the men at the front.
Some have spoken of it in terms of exaggerated optimism, as though by the
miracle of the war men had become beings of angelic outlook and temper.
Others have taken a despairing attitude, and thought that religion has lost
its real power over the world. The truth is, I think, that there was a
revelation to most men, in a broad way, of a mysterious soul life within,
and of a huge responsibility to an infinite and eternal Being above. There
was a revelation also, wide and deep, to many individual men, of the living
force and example of Him who is both God and Brother-man. Where the
associations of church and home had been clean and helpful, men under the
batterings of war felt consciously the power of religion. In the life at the
front, no doubt there was much evil thinking, evil talking and evil doing,
but there was, underlying all this, the splendid manifestation in human
nature of that image of God in which man was made. As one looks back
upon it, the surface things of that life have drifted away, and the great
things that one remembers are the self-sacrifice, the living comradeship,
and the unquestioning faith in the eternal rightness of right and duty which
characterized those who were striving to the death for the salvation of the
world. This glorious vision of the nobility of human nature sustained the
chaplain through many discouragements and difficulties. I have often sat
on my horse on rainy nights near Hill 63, and watched the battalions going
up to the line. With wet rubber sheets hanging over their huge packs and
with rifles on their shoulders, the men marched up through the mud and
cold and darkness, to face wounds and death. At such times, the sordid life
has been transfigured before me. The hill was no longer Hill 63, but it was
the hill of Calvary. The burden laid upon the men was no longer the heavy
soldier’s pack, but it was the cross of Christ, and, as the weary tramp of the
men splashed in the mud, I said to myself “Each one has fulfilled the law
of life, and has taken up his cross and is following Christ.”
I told the men this one day on church parade; and a corporal sometime
afterwards said that, when next their battalion was moving up into the line,
a young fellow beside him was swearing very hard over the amount of stuff
he had to carry. My friend went over to him and said, “Don’t you know that
Canon Scott told us that this really isn’t a pack, but it’s the Cross of
Christ?” The lad stopped swearing at once, and took up his burden without
a word.
94
day unless they fired on us. The Germans had evidently come to the same
resolution. Early in the morning some of them had come over to our wire
and left two bottles of beer behind as a peace offering. The men were
allowed to go back to their trenches unmolested, but the two bottles of beer
quite naturally and without any difficulty continued their journey to our
lines. When I got up to the front trench, I found our boys standing on the
parapet and looking over at the enemy. I climbed up, and there, to my
astonishment, I saw the Germans moving about in their trenches apparently
quite indifferent to the fact that we were gazing at them. One man was
sawing wood. Between us and them lay that mass of wire and iron posts
which is known as the mysterious “No Man’s Land.” Further down the hill
we saw the trenches of the 13th Battalion, where apparently intermittent
“Straffing” was still going on. Where we were, however, there was nothing
to disturb our Christmas peace and joy. I actually got out into “No Mans
Land” and wandered down it. Many Christmas parcels had arrived and the
men were making merry with their friends, and enjoying the soft spring-like
air, and the warm sunshine. When I got down to the 13th Battalion however,
I found that I had to take cover, as the German snipers and guns were
active. I did not have any service for that Battalion then, as I was going to
them on the following Sunday, but at evening I held another midnight
service for those of the 16th who were on duty the night before.
The only place available was the billet of the Machine Gun Officer in
the second trench. It was the cellar of a ruined building and the entrance
was down some broken steps. One of the sergeants had cleaned up the place
and a shelf on the wall illuminated by candles was converted into an altar,
and the dear old flag, the symbol of liberty, equality and fraternity, was
once again my altar cloth. The Machine Gun Officer, owing to our close
proximity to the enemy, was a little doubtful as to the wisdom of our
singing hymns, but finally allowed us to do so. The tiny room and the
passage outside were crowded with stalwart young soldiers, whose voices
sang out the old hymns as though the Germans were miles away. Our
quarters were so cramped that the men had difficulty in squeezing into the
room for communion and could not kneel down. The service was rich and
beautiful in the heartfelt devotion of men to whom, in their great need,
religion was a real and vital thing. Not long after midnight, once again the
pounding of the old war was resumed, and as I went to bed in the dugout
that night, I felt from what a sublime height the world had dropped. We had
two more war Christmases in France, but I always look back upon that first
one as something unique in its beauty and simplicity.
When I stood on the parapet that day looking over at the Germans in
their trenches, and thought how two great nations were held back for a time
Our First Christmas in France 97
t the end of March our Division was ordered back to the Salient, and
A so Headquarters left St. Jans Cappel. It was with great regret that I bid
good-by to the little place which had been such a pleasant home for several
months. The tide of war since then has no doubt swept away many of the
pastoral charms of the scenery, but the green fields and the hillsides will be
reclothed in beauty as time goes on. We stopped for a few days at Flêtre,
and while there I made the acquaintance of the Australians, and visited the
battalions which were billeted in the neighbourhood.
It was always delightful to have the Division out in rest. As long as the
men were in the line one could not be completely happy. But when they
came out and one went amongst them, there was nothing to overcloud the
pleasure of our intercourse. One day I rode over to a battalion and found a
lot of men sitting round the cookhouse. We had a long talk about the war,
and they asked me to recite my war limericks. I spent the evening with the
O.C. of a battery and the night, on my return, was very dark. One of the
battalions had been paid off that afternoon, and the men, who as usual had
been celebrating the event in an estaminet, were in boisterous spirits. It was
so hard to make my way through the crowd that Dandy got nervous and
unmanageable. A young fellow who recognized me in the dark came up and
asked me if I should like him to lead the horse down the road. I gratefully
accepted his offer. He walked beside me till we came to a bridge, and then
he told me that he had been very much interested in religion since he came
Spring, 1916 99
to the war, and was rather troubled over the fact that he had never been
baptised. He said he had listened to my limericks that day, and while he
was listening had determined to speak to me about his baptism. I arranged
to prepare him, and, before the battalion started north, I baptised him in the
C.O.’s. room in a farmhouse. The Adjutant acted as his godfather. I do not
know where the lad is now, or how he fared in the war, but someday I hope
I shall hear from him again. It was often very difficult, owing to the
numbers of men one was meeting, and the many changes that were
continually taking place, to keep track of the lives of individuals. The
revelations of the religious experiences and the needs of the human soul,
which came over and over again from conversations with men, were always
of the greatest help to a chaplain, and made him feel that, in spite of many
discouragements and much indifference, there was always some soul asking
for spiritual help.
The Headquarters of our Division were now at a place called
Hooggraaf. It consisted of a few small houses and a large school kept by
nuns. Huts were run up for the officers and, at a little distance down the
road, a home was built for “C” mess. At one side were some Armstrong
canvas huts, one of which was mine. It was a pleasant place, and being back
from the road was free from dust. Green fields, rich in grain, spread in all
directions. It was at Hooggraaf that the Engineers built me a church, and a
big sign over the door proclaimed it to be “St. George’s Church.” It was
first used on Easter Day, which in 1916 fell on the Festival of St. George,
and we had very hearty services.
Poperinghe, only two miles away, became our city of refuge. Many of
our units had their headquarters there, and the streets were filled with our
friends. We had many pleasant gatherings there in an estaminet which
became a meeting place for officers. The Guards Division, among other
troops, were stationed in Poperinghe, so there was much variety of life and
interest in the town. “Talbot House,” for the men, and the new Officer’s
Club, presided over by Neville Talbot, were centres of interest. The gardens
at the back made very pleasant places for an after-dinner smoke. There
were very good entertainments in a theatre every evening, where “The
Follies,” a theatrical company of Imperial soldiers, used to perform.
Poperinghe was even at that time damaged by shells, but since then it has
suffered more severely. The graceful spire, which stood up over the plain
with its outline against the sky, has luckily been preserved. We had some
very good rest billets for the men in the area around Hooggraaf. They
consisted of collections of large wooden huts situated in different places,
and called by special names. “Scottish Lines,” “Connaught Lines,” and
“Patricia Lines,” were probably the most comfortable. In fact, all along the
100 Spring, 1916
various roads which ran through our area different units made their homes.
Our military prison was in a barn about a mile from Headquarters. I
used to go there for service every Monday afternoon at six o’clock. By that
time, the men had come back from work. They slept on shelves, one over
another. The barn was poorly lighted, and got dark early in the afternoon.
The first time I took service there, I was particularly anxious that
everything should be done as nicely as possible, so that the men would not
think they had come under the ban of the church. Most of their offences
were military ones. The men therefore were not criminals in the ordinary
sense of the term. I brought my surplice, scarf and hymn books, and I told
the men that I wanted them to sing. They lay on the shelves with only their
heads and shoulders visible. I told them that I wanted the service to be
hearty, and asked them to choose the first hymn. A voice from one of the
shelves said–
“Here we suffer grief and pain.”
A roar of laughter went up from the prisoners, in which I joined
heartily.
At the front, we held Hill 60 and the trenches to the south of it. In a
railway embankment, a series of dugouts furnished the Brigade that was in
the line with comfortable billets. The Brigadier’s abode had a fireplace in
it. One of the dugouts was used as a morgue, in which bodies were kept till
they could be buried. A man told me that one night when he had come
down from the line very late, he found a dugout full of men wrapped in
their blankets, every one apparently asleep. Without more ado, he crawled
in amongst them and slept soundly till morning. When he awoke, he found
to his horror that he had slept all night among the dead men in the morgue.
There was a cemetery at Railway Dugouts, which was carefully laid out.
Beyond this there was another line of sandbag homes on one side of a large
pond called “Zillebeke Lake.” They were used by other divisions.
From Railway Dugouts, by paths and then by communication trenches,
one made one’s way up to Hill 60 and the other parts of the front line,
where the remains of a railway crossed the hill. Our dugouts were on the
east side of it, and the line itself was called “Lover’s Lane.” The brick arch
of a bridge which crossed the line was part of our front.
One day I was asked by a British chaplain, who was ordered south, to
accompany him on a trip he was making to his brother’s grave at Hooge. He
wished to mark it by a cross. As the place was in full view of the Germans,
we had to visit it before dawn. I met my friend at 2:30 a.m. in the large
dugout under the Ramparts at Ypres. We started off with two runners, but
one managed most conveniently to lose us and returned home. The other
accompanied us all the way. It was a weird expedition. The night was partly
Spring, 1916 101
cloudy, and faint moonlight struggled through the mist which shrouded us.
The runner went first, and the Padré, who was a tall man, followed,
carrying the cross on his shoulder. I brought up the rear. In the dim light,
my friend looked like some allegorical figure from “Pilgrim’s Progress.”
Occasionally we heard the hammering of a machine-gun, and we would lie
down till the danger was past. We skirted the grim borders of Sanctuary
Wood, and made our way to Hooge. There my friend got out his map to
find, if possible, the place where he had buried his brother. He sat down in
a large shell hole, and turned his flashlight upon the paper. It was difficult
to find the location, because the place had recently been the scene of a hard
struggle. The guide and I looked over the ground and we found a line of
graves marked by broken crosses. The night was fast passing and in the
grey of the eastern sky the stars were going out one by one. At last my
friend found the spot he was looking for and there he set up the cross, and
had a short memorial service for the dead. On our return, we passed once
more by Sanctuary Wood, and in the daylight looked into the place torn and
battered by shells and reeking with the odours of unburied bodies.
We parted at Zillebeke Bund, and I made my way to Railway Dugouts.
It was a lovely morning and the air was so fresh that although I had been
walking all night I did not feel tired. The 3rd Battalion was holding the line
just behind a piece of ground which was called the “Bean and Pollock.” It
was supposed that the Germans had mined the place and that an explosion
might be expected at any minute. One company had built a rustic arbour,
which they used as their mess-room. The bright sun shone through the
green boughs overhead. There was intermittent shelling, but nothing to
cause us any worry. I stayed till late in the afternoon, when I made my way
towards the rear of Hill 60. There I found the 14th Battalion which was in
reserve. They told me that the 16th Battalion in the line was going to blow
up a mine that night, and offered to give me a dugout if I would stay for the
festivities. I gladly accepted, and just before midnight made my way to a
dugout that had just been completed. I was told that there was a bed in it
with a wire mattress. When I got into the dugout, I lit a candle, and found
to my astonishment that the place was full of men lying on the bed and the
floor. They offered to get out but I told them not to think of it. So we lit
another candle, and had a very pleasant time until the mine went up. We
heard a fearful explosion, and the ground rocked as it does in an
earthquake. It was not long before the Germans retaliated, and we heard the
shells falling round us. At daybreak I went up to the line to see the result
of the explosion. A large crater had been made in No Man’s Land, but for
some reason or other the side of our trench had been blown back upon our
own men and there were many casualties.
102 Spring, 1916
aster Day, 1916, fell on the 23rd of April, and a great many interesting
E facts were connected with it. The 23rd of April is St. George’s Day. It
is also the anniversary of Shakespeare’s birth and of his death, and also of
the 2nd Battle of Ypres. The day was a glorious one. The air was sweet and
fresh, the grass was the brightest green, hedgerows and trees were in leaf,
and everybody was in high spirits. After services in St. George’s Church I
rode over to Poperinghe and attended a memorial service which the 1st
Brigade were holding in the Cinema. General Mercer, who himself was
killed not long afterwards, was one of the speakers. The building was
crowded with men, and the service was very solemn.
Life at this time was very pleasant, except for the fact that we never
knew what might happen when we were in the Salient. We always felt that
it was a death-trap, and that the Germans would never give up trying to
capture Ypres. I was kept busy riding about, visiting the different units.
Round about Hooggraaf the spring roads were very attractive, and the
numerous short cuts through the fields and under the overhanging trees
reminded one of country life at home.
One day Dandy bolted as I was mounting him, and I fell on some bath
mats breaking a bone in my hand and cutting my face in several places.
This necessitated my being sent up to the British C.C.S. at Mont des Cats.
Mont des Cats was a picturesque hill which overlooked the Flanders Plain,
and could be seen from all parts of the Salient. On the top there was a
104 The Attack on Mount Sorrel
Trappist monastery. The buildings were modern and covered a large extent
of ground. They were solidly built of brick and stone and the chapel was a
beautiful building with a high vaulted roof. From the top of the hill, a
magnificent view of the country could be obtained, to the North as far as
the sea, and to the East as far as our trenches, where we could see the shells
bursting.
Mont des Cats hospital was a most delightful temporary home. There
was a large ward full of young officers, who were more or less ill or
damaged. In another part of the building were wards for the men. From the
O.C. downwards everyone in the C.C.S. was the soul of kindness, and the
beautiful buildings with their pleasant grounds gave a peculiar charm to the
life. My room was not far from the chapel, and every night at two a.m. I
could hear the old monks chanting their offices. Most of the monks had
been conscripted and were fighting in the French army; only a few of the
older ones remained. But by day and night at stated intervals the volume of
their prayer and praise rose up above the noise of war, just as it had risen
through the centuries of the past. There were beautiful gardens which the
monks tended carefully, and also many grape vines on the walls. We used
to watch the silent old men doing their daily work and making signs to one
another instead of speaking. In the evening I would make my way up the
spiral staircase to the west-end gallery, which looked down upon the
chapel. The red altar lamp cast a dim light in the sacred building, and every
now and then in the stillness I could hear, like the roar of a distant sea, the
sound of shells falling at the front. The mysterious silence of the lofty
building, with the far off reverberations of war thrilling it now and then,
was a solace to the soul.
A smaller chapel in the monastery, with a well-appointed altar, was
allotted by the monks to the chaplain for his services. While I was at Mont
des Cats we heard of the death of Lord Kitchener. The news came to the
Army with the force of a stunning blow; but thank God, the British
character is hardened and strengthened by adversity, and while we all felt
his loss keenly and looked forward to the future with anxiety, the
determination to go on to victory was made stronger by the catastrophe. As
the chaplain of the hospital was away at the time, I held a memorial service
in the large refectory. Following upon the death of Lord Kitchener came
another disaster. The Germans in the beginning of June launched a fierce
attack upon the 3rd Division, causing many casualties and capturing many
prisoners. General Mercer was killed, and a brigadier was wounded and
taken prisoner. To make matters worse, we heard of the battle of Jutland,
the first report of which was certainly disconcerting. We gathered from it
that our navy had suffered a great reverse. The death of Lord Kitchener, the
The Attack on Mount Sorrel 105
naval reverse, and the fierce attack on our front, following one another in
such a short space of time, called for great steadiness of nerve and coolness
of head. I felt that the hospital was no place for me when Canadians were
meeting reverses at the front, especially as the First Division was ordered
to recapture the lost trenches. I telephoned to my good friend, Colonel
Brutenell, the C.O. of the Motor Machine-Gun Brigade, and asked him to
send me a side-car to take me forward. He had always in the past shown me
much kindness in supplying me with means of locomotion. Colonel
Brutenell was an old country Frenchman with the most courteous manners.
When I first discovered that he was the possessor of side-cars, I used to
obtain them by going over to him and saying, “Colonel, if you will give me
a side-car I will recite you one of my poems.” He was too polite at first to
decline to enter into the bargain, but, as time went on, I found that the price
I offered began to lose its value, and sometimes the side-cars were not
forthcoming. It then became necessary to change my plan of campaign, so
I hit upon another device. I used to walk into the orderly room and say in
a raucous voice, “Colonel, if you don’t give me a side-car I will recite one
of my poems.” I found that in the long run this was the most effectual
method. On the present occasion, therefore, the side-car was sent to me, and
I made my way to Wippenhoek and from thence up to the dressing station
at Vlamertinghe. Here our wounded were pouring in. Once again Canada
was reddening the soil of the Salient with her best blood. It was indeed an
anxious time. That evening, however, a telegram was received by the O.C.
of the Ambulance saying that the British fleet had sunk twenty or thirty
German vessels, and implying that what we had thought was a naval
reverse was really a magnificent naval victory. I do not know who sent the
telegram, or on what foundation in fact it was based. I think that somebody
in authority considered it would be well to cheer up our men with a piece
of good news. At any rate all who were at the dressing station believed it,
and I determined to carry a copy of the telegram with me up to the men in
the line. I started off on one of the ambulances for Railway Dugouts. Those
ambulance journeys through the town of Ypres after midnight were things
to be remembered. The desolate ruins of the city stood up black and grim.
The road was crowded with men, lorries, ambulances, transports and
motorcycles. Every now and then the scene of desolation would be lit up
by gun flashes. Occasionally the crash of a shell would shake the already
sorely smitten city. I can never cease to admire the pluck of those
ambulance drivers, who night after night, backwards and forwards,
threaded their way in the darkness through the ghost-haunted streets. One
night when the enemy’s guns were particularly active, I was being driven
by a young boy only eighteen years of age. Sitting beside him on the front
106 The Attack on Mount Sorrel
seat, I told him how much I admired his nerve and coolness. He turned to
me quite simply and said that he was not afraid. He just put himself in
God’s hands and didn’t worry. When he came afterwards to Headquarters
and drove our side-car he never minded where he went or how far towards
the front he took it. I do not know where he is in Canada, but I know that
Canada will be the better for having such a boy as one of her citizens.
When I arrived at Railway Dugouts, I found that there was great
activity on all sides, but my message about our naval victory had a most
stimulating effect and I had the courage to wake up no less than three
generals to tell them the good news. They said they didn’t care how often
they were awakened for news like that. I then got a runner, and was making
my way up to the men in the front line when the Germans put on an attack.
The trench that I was in became very hot, and, as I had my arm in a sling
and could not walk very comfortably or do much in the way of dodging, the
runner and I thought it would be wiser to return, especially as we could not
expect the men, then so fully occupied, to listen to our message of cheer.
We made our way back as best we could to Railway Dugouts, and
telephoned the news to the various battalion headquarters. The telegram
was never confirmed, and I was accused of having made it up myself. It
certainly had a wholesome effect upon our men at a critical and anxious
moment.
We had a hard time in retaking the lost ground. Gallant were the
charges which were made in broad daylight in the face of heavy
machine-gun fire. In preparation for the attack, our men had to lie under the
cover of broken hedges for twenty-four hours, living only on the iron
rations which they carried with them. I went up one morning when one of
our battalions had just come out after a hard fight. The men were in a
shallow trench, ankle deep in mud and water. As they had lost very heavily,
the Colonel put me in charge of a burial party. We buried a number of
bodies but were stopped at last at the entrance of Armagh Wood, which the
Germans were at the time heavily shelling, and we had to postpone the
performance of our sad duty till things were quieter.
Still in spite of reverses, the spirits of our men never declined. They
were full of rebound, and quickly recovered themselves. As one looks back
to that period of our experience, all sorts of pictures, bright and sombre,
crowd the mind–the Square at Poperinghe in the evening, the Guards’ fife
and drum bands playing tattoo in the old town while hundreds of men
looked on; the dark station of Poperinghe in the evening, and the battalions
being sent up to the front in railway trucks; the old mill at Vlamertinghe
with the reception room for the wounded, and the white tables on which the
bleeding forms were laid; the dark streets of Ypres, rank with the poisonous
The Attack on Mount Sorrel 107
upon us and the suffering that it involved. The brave patient hearts of those
at home were continually in our thoughts, and we always felt that the
hardest burden was laid upon them. They had no excitement; they knew not
the comradeship and the exaltation of feeling which came to those who
were in the thick of things at the front. They had to go on day by day
bearing their burden of anxiety, quietly and patiently in faith and courage.
To them our men were always ready to give the palm of the victors.
109
Commerce, where I met several Canadian officers and many airmen. The
next day was Sunday so I attended the service in the military church. After
it was over, I went with a young flying officer into the old cathedral.
The service had ended and we were alone in the building, but the
sunlight flooded it and brought out the richness of contrast in light and
shadow, and the air was still fragrant with the smell of incense. My friend
and I were talking, as we sat there, about the effect the war had had upon
religion. Turning to me he said, “The great thing I find when I am in a tight
place in the air is to pray to Jesus Christ. Many and many a time when I
have been in difficulties and thought that I really must be brought down, I
have prayed to Him and He has preserved me.” I looked at the boy as he
spoke. He was very young, but had a keen, earnest face, and I thought how
often I had seen fights in the air and how little I had imagined that the
human hearts in those little craft, which looked like tiny flies among the
clouds, were praying to God for help and protection. I told him how glad
I was to hear his testimony to the power of Christ. When we got back to the
hotel, one of the airmen came up to him and said, “Congratulations, old
chap, here’s your telegram.” The telegram was an order for him to join a
squadron which held what the airmen considered to be, from it’s exceeding
danger, the post of honour at the Somme front. I often wonder if the boy
came through the fierce ordeal alive.
It was pleasant to meet Bishop Gwynne and his staff once again. There
was always something spiritually bracing in visiting the Headquarters of
our Chaplain Service at St. Omer. On the Monday I rode off to our
Divisional Headquarters, which were in a fine old chateau at Tilques. I had
a pleasant billet in a comfortable house at the entrance to the town, and the
different units of the Division were encamped in the quaint villages round
about. After their experience in the Salient, the men were glad to have a
little peace and rest; although they knew they were on their journey to
bigger and harder things. The country around St. Omer was so fresh and
beautiful that the change of scene did everyone good. The people too were
exceedingly kind and wherever we went we found that the Canadians were
extremely popular. There were many interesting old places near by which
brought back memories of French history. However, the day came when we
had to move. From various points the battalions entrained for the South. On
Monday, August 28th, I travelled by train with the 3rd Field Company of
Engineers and finally found myself in a billet at Canaples. After two or
three days we settled at a place called Rubempré. Here I had a clean billet
beside a very malodorous pond which the village cows used as their
drinking place. The country round us was quite different in character from
what it had been further north. Wide stretches of open ground and rolling
The Battle of the Somme 111
hills, with here and there patches of green woods, made up a very pleasant
landscape. I rode one day to Amiens and visited the glorious cathedral
which I had not seen since I came there as a boy thirty-three years before.
I attended the service of Benediction that evening at six o’clock. The
sunlight was streaming through the glorious windows, and the whole place
was filled with a beauty that seemed to be not of earth. There was a large
congregation present and it was made up of a varied lot of people. There
were women in deep mourning, Sisters of Charity and young children.
There were soldiers and old men. But they were all one in their spirit of
humble adoration and intercession. The organ pealed out its noble strains
until the whole place was vibrant with devotion. I shall never forget the
impression that service made upon me. The next time I saw the cathedral,
Amiens was deserted of its inhabitants, four shells had pierced the sacred
fane itself, and the long aisles, covered with bits of broken glass, were
desolate and silent.
From Rubempré we moved to Albert, where we were billeted in a small
house on a back street. Our Battle Headquarters were in the Bapaume road
in trenches and dugouts, on a rise in the ground which was called Tara Hill.
By the side of the road was a little cemetery which had been laid out by the
British, and was henceforth to be the last resting place of many Canadians.
Our battalions were billeted in different places in the damaged town, and
in the brick-fields near by. Our chief dressing station was in an old
school-house not far from the Cathedral. Albert must have been a pleasant
town in pre-war days, but now the people had deserted it and every building
had either been shattered or damaged by shells. From the spire of the
Cathedral hung at right angles the beautiful bronze image of the Blessed
Virgin, holding up her child above her head for the adoration of the world.
It seemed to me as if there was something appropriate in the strange
position the statue now occupied, for, as the battalions marched past the
church, it looked as if they were receiving a parting benediction from the
Infant Saviour.
The character of the war had now completely changed. For months and
months, we seemed to have reached a deadlock. Now we had broken
through and were to push on and on into the enemy’s territory. As we
passed over the ground which had already been won from the Germans, we
were amazed at the wonderful dugouts which they had built, and the huge
craters made by the explosion of our mines. The dugouts were deep in the
ground, lined with wood and lighted by electric light. Bits of handsome
furniture, too, had found their way there from the captured villages, which
showed that the Germans must have lived in great comfort. We were
certainly glad of the homes they had made for us, for our division was in
112 The Battle of the Somme
the line three times during the battle of the Somme, going back to
Rubempré and Canaples when we came out for the necessary rest between
the attacks.
Looking back to those terrible days of fierce fighting, the mind is so
crowded with memories and pictures that it is hard to disentangle them.
How well one remembers the trips up the Bapaume road to La Boisselle
and Pozières. The country rolled off into the distance in vast billows, and
bore marks of the fierce fighting which had occurred here when the British
made their great advance. When one rode out from our rear headquarters
at the end of the town one passed some brick houses more or less damaged
and went on to Tara Hill. There by the wayside was a dressing station. On
the hill itself there was the waste of pale yellow mud, and the piles of white
chalk which marked the side of the trench in which were deep dugouts.
There were many wooden huts, too, which were used as offices. The road
went on down the slope on the other side of the hill to La Boisselle, where
it forked into two–one going to Contalmaison, the other on the left to
Pozières and finally to Bapaume. La Boisselle stood, or rather used to
stand, on the point of ground where the roads parted. When we saw it, it
was simply a mass of broken ground, which showed the ironwork round the
former church, some broken tombstones, and the red dust and bricks of
what had been houses. There were still some cellars left in which men
found shelter. A well there was used by the men for some time, until cases
of illness provoked an investigation and a dead German was discovered at
the bottom. The whole district was at all times the scene of great activity.
Men were marching to or from the line; lorries, limbers, motorcycles,
ambulances and staff cars were passing or following one another on the
muddy and broken way. Along the road at various points batteries were
concealed, and frequently, by a sudden burst of fire, gave one an unpleasant
surprise. If one took the turn to the right, which led to Contalmaison, one
passed up a gradual rise in the ground and saw the long, dreary waste of
landscape which told the story, by shell-ploughed roads and blackened
woods, of the deadly presence of war. One of the depressions among the
hills was called Sausage Valley. In it were many batteries and some
cemeteries, and trenches where our brigade headquarters were. At the
corner of a branch road, just above the ruins of Contalmaison, our
engineers put up a little shack, and this was used by our Chaplains’ Service
as a distributing place for coffee and biscuits. Some men were kept there
night and day boiling huge tins of water over a smoky fire in the corner. A
hundred and twenty-five gallons of coffee were given away every
twenty-four hours. Good strong coffee it was too, most bracing in effect.
The cups used were cigarette tins, and the troops going up to the trenches
The Battle of the Somme 113
or coming back from them, used to stop and have some coffee and some
biscuits to cheer them on their way. The place in the road was called
Casualty Corner, and was not supposed to be a very “healthy” resting place,
but we did not lose any men in front of the little canteen. The work had
been started by the Senior Chaplain of the Australian Division which we
had relieved, and he handed it over to us.
Under our Chaplains’ Service the canteen became a most helpful
institution; not only was coffee given away, but many other things,
including cigarettes. Many a man has told me that that drink of coffee saved
his life when he was quite used up.
In Contalmaison itself, there had once been a very fine chateau. It, like
the rest of the village, survived only as a heap of bricks and rubbish, but the
cellars, which the Germans had used as a dressing station, were very large
and from them branched off deep dugouts lined with planed boards and lit
by electric light.
The road which turned to the left led down to a waste of weary ground
in a wide valley where many different units were stationed in dugouts and
holes in the ground. Towards the Pozières road there was a famous chalk
pit. In the hillside were large dugouts, used by battalions when out of the
line. There was also a light railway, and many huts and shacks of various
kinds. Pozières looked very much like La Boisselle. Some heaps or rubbish
and earth reddened by bricks and brick-dust alone showed where the village
had been. At Pozières the Y.M.C.A. had another coffee-stall, where coffee
was given away free. These coffee-stalls were a great institution, and in
addition to the bracing effect of the drink provided, the rude shack with its
cheery fire always made a pleasant place for rest and conversation.
After Courcelette was taken by the 2nd Division, our front line lay
beyond it past Death Valley on the slope leading down to Regina Trench,
and onward to the villages of Pys and Miraumont. Over all this stretch of
country, waste and dreary as it got to be towards the end of September, our
various fighting units were scattered, and along that front line, as we
pushed the enemy back, our men made the bitter sacrifice of life and limb.
It was a time of iron resolve and hard work. There was no opportunity now
for amusement and social gatherings. When one spoke to staff officers, they
answered in monosyllables. When one rode in their cars, one had very fixed
and definite times at which to start and to return. The army had set its teeth
and was out to battle in grim earnest. It was a time, however, of hope and
encouragement. When, as we advanced, we saw what the German defences
had been, we were filled with admiration for the splendid British attack in
July which had forced the enemy to retreat. If that had been done once it
could be done again, and so we pressed on. But the price we had to pay for
114 The Battle of the Somme
victory was indeed costly and one’s heart ached for the poor men in their
awful struggle in that region of gloom and death. This was war indeed, and
one wondered how long it was to last. Gradually the sad consciousness
came that our advance was checked, but still the sacrifice was not in vain,
for our gallant men were using up the forces of the enemy.
Ghastly were the stories which we heard from time to time. One man
told me that he had counted three hundred bodies hanging on the wire
which we had failed to cut in preparation for the attack. An officer met me
one day and told me how his company had had to hold on in a trench, hour
after hour, under terrific bombardment. He was sitting in his dugout,
expecting every moment to be blown up, when a young lad came in and
asked if he might stay with him. The boy was only eighteen years of age
and his nerve had utterly gone. He came into the dugout, and, like a child
clinging to his mother clasped the officer with his arms. The latter could
not be angry with the lad. There was nothing to do at that point but to hold
on and wait, so, as he said to me, “I looked at the boy and thought of his
mother, and just leaned down and gave him a kiss. Not long afterwards a
shell struck the dugout and the boy was killed, and when we retired I had
to leave his body there.” Wonderful deeds were done; some were known
and received well merited rewards, others were noted only by the
Recording Angel. A piper won the V.C. for his gallantry in marching up
and down in front of the wire playing his pipes while the men were
struggling through it in their attack upon Regina Trench. He was killed
going back to hunt for his pipes which he had left in helping a wounded
man to a place of safety. One cannot write of that awful time unmoved, for
there come up before the mind faces of friends that one will see no more,
faces of men who were strong, brave and even joyous in the midst of that
burning fiery furnace, from which their lives passed, we trust into regions
where there shall be no more death, neither sorrow nor crying, and where
the sound of war is hushed forever.
One new feature which was introduced into the war at this time was the
“Tank.” A large family of these curious and newly developed instruments
of battle was congregated in a wood on the outskirts of the town, and
awoke great interest on all sides. At that time we were doubtful how far
they would be able to fulfill the hopes that were entertained of them. Some
of them had already been knocked out near Courcelette. One lay partly in
the ditch by the road. It had been hit by a shell, and the petrol had burst into
flames burning up the crew within, whose charred bones were taken out
when an opportunity offered, and were reverently buried. The tank was
often visited by our men, and for that reason the Germans made it a mark
for their shell-fire. It was wise to give it a wide berth.
The Battle of the Somme 115
Our chaplains were working manfully and took their duties at the
different dressing stations night and day in relays. The main dressing
station was the school-house in Albert which I have already described. It
was a good sized building and there were several large rooms in it. Many
is the night that I have passed there, and I see it now distinctly in my mind.
In the largest room, there were the tables neatly prepared, white and clean,
for the hours of active work which began towards midnight when the
ambulances brought back the wounded from the front. The orderlies would
be lying about taking a rest until their services were needed, and the doctors
with their white aprons on would be sitting in the room or in their mess
near by. The windows were entirely darkened, but in the building was the
bright light and the persistent smell of acetylene gas. Innumerable bandages
and various instruments were piled neatly on the white covered tables; and
in the outer room, which was used as the office, were the record books and
tags with which the wounded were labelled as they were sent off to the
Base. Far off we could hear the noise of the shells, and occasionally one
would fall in the town. When the ambulances arrived everyone would be
on the alert. I used to go out and stand in the darkness, and see the
stretchers carried in gently and tenderly by the bearers, who laid them on
the floor of the outer room. Torn and broken forms, racked with suffering,
cold and wet with rain and mud, hidden under muddy blankets, lay there in
rows upon the brick floor. Sometimes the heads were entirely covered;
sometimes the eyes were bandaged; sometimes the pale faces, crowned
with matted, muddy hair, turned restlessly from side to side, and parched
lips asked for a sip of water. Then one by one the stretchers with their
human burden would be carried to the tables in the dressing room. Long
before these cases could be disposed of, other ambulances had arrived, and
the floor of the outer room once more became covered with stretchers. Now
and then the sufferers could not repress their groans. One night a man was
brought in who looked very pale and asked me piteously to get him some
water. I told him I could not do so until the doctor had seen his wound. I got
him taken into the dressing room, and turned away for a moment to look
after some fresh arrivals. Then I went back towards the table whereon the
poor fellow was lying. They had uncovered him and, from the look on the
faces of the attendants round about, I saw that some specially ghastly
wound was disclosed. I went over to the table, and there I saw a sight too
horrible to be described. A shell had burst at his feet, and his body from the
waist down was shattered. Beyond this awful sight I saw the white face
turning from side to side, and the parched lips asking for water. The man,
thank God, did not suffer very acutely, as the shock had been so great, but
he was perfectly conscious. The case was hopeless, so they kindly and
116 The Battle of the Somme
tenderly covered him up, and he was carried out into the room set apart for
the dying. When he was left alone, I knelt down beside him and talked to
him. He was a French Canadian and a Roman Catholic, and, as there
happened to be no Roman Catholic Chaplain present at the moment, I got
him to repeat the “Lord’s Prayer” and the “Hail Mary,” and gave him the
benediction. He died about half an hour afterwards. When the sergeant
came in to have the body removed to the morgue, he drew the man’s
paybook from his pocket, and there we found that for some offence he had
been given a long period of field punishment, and his pay was cut down to
seventy cents a day. For seventy cents a day he had come as a voluntary
soldier to fight in the great war, and for seventy cents a day he had died this
horrible death. I told the sergeant that I felt like dipping that page of the
man’s paybook in his blood to blot out the memory of the past. The doctor
who attended the case told me that that was the worst sight he had ever
seen.
One night a young German was brought in. He was perfectly conscious,
but was reported to be seriously wounded. He was laid out on one of the
tables and when his torn uniform was ripped off, we found he had been hit
by shrapnel and had ten or twelve wounds in his body and limbs. I never
saw anyone more brave. He was a beautifully developed man, with very
white skin, and on the grey blanket looked like a marble statue, marked
here and there by red, bleeding wounds. He never gave a sign by sound or
movement of what he was suffering; but his white face showed the
approach of death. He was tended carefully, and then carried over to a quiet
corner in the room. I went over to him, and pointing to my collar said,
“Pasteur.” I knelt beside him and started the Lord’s Prayer in German,
which he finished adding some other prayer. I gave him the benediction and
made the sign of the cross on his forehead, for the sign of the cross belongs
to the universal language of men. Then the dying, friendless enemy, who
had made expiation in his blood for the sins of his guilty nation, drew his
hand from under the blanket and taking mine said, “Thank you.” They
carried him off to an ambulance, but I was told he would probably die long
before he got to his destination.
On the 26th of September I spent the night in a dressing station in the
sunken road near Courcelette. I had walked from Pozières down to the
railway track, where in the dark I met a company of the Canadian Cyclist
Corps, who were being used as stretcher bearers. We went in single file
along the railway and then across the fields which were being shelled. At
last we came to the dressing station. Beside the entrance, was a little shelter
covered with corrugated iron, and there were laid a number of wounded,
while some were lying on stretchers in the open road. Among these were
The Battle of the Somme 117
several German prisoners and the bodies of dead men. The dressing station
had once been the dugout of an enemy battery and its openings, therefore,
were on the side of the road facing the Germans, who knew its location
exactly. When I went down into it I found it crowded with men who were
being tended by the doctor and his staff. It had three openings to the road.
One of them had had a direct hit that night, and mid the debris which
blocked it were the fragments of a human body. The Germans gave the
place no rest, and all along the road shells were falling, and bits would
clatter upon the corrugated iron which roofed the shelter by the wayside.
There was no room in the dugout for any but those who were being actually
treated by the doctor, so the wounded had to wait up above till they could
be borne off by the bearer parties. It was a trying experience for them, and
it was hard to make them forget the danger they were in. I found a young
officer lying in the road, who was badly hit in the leg. I had prayers with
him and at his request I gave him the Holy Communion. On the stretcher
next to him, lay the body of a dead man wrapped in a blanket. After I had
finished the service, the officer asked for some water. I went down and got
him a mouthful very strongly flavoured with petrol from the tin in which
it was carried. He took it gladly, but, just as I had finished giving him the
drink, a shell burst and there was a loud crack by his side. “Oh,” he cried,
“they have got my other leg.” I took my electric torch, and, allowing only
a small streak of light to shine through my fingers, I made an examination
of the stretcher, and there I found against it a shattered rum jar which had
just been hit by a large piece of shell. The thing had saved him from
another wound, and I told him that he owed his salvation to a rum jar. He
was quite relieved to find that his good leg had not been hit. I got the bearer
party to take him off as soon as possible down the long path across the
fields which led to the light railway, where he could be put on a truck. Once
while I was talking to the men in the shelter, a shell burst by the side of the
road and ignited a pile of German ammunition. At once there were
explosions, a weird red light lit up the whole place, and volumes of red
smoke rolled off into the starlit sky. To my surprise, from a ditch on the
other side of the road, a company of Highlanders emerged and ran further
away from the danger of the exploding shells. It was one of the most
theatrical sights I have ever seen. With the lurid light and the broken road
in the foreground, and the hurrying figures carrying their rifles, it was just
like a scene on the stage.
The stars were always a great comfort to me. Above the gun-flashes or
the bursting of shells and shrapnel, they would stand out calm and clear,
twinkling just as merrily as I have seen them do on many a pleasant
sleigh-drive in Canada. I had seen Orion for the first time that year, rising
118 The Battle of the Somme
over the broken Cathedral at Albert. I always felt when he arrived for his
winter visit to the sky, that he came as an old friend, and was waiting like
us for the wretched war to end. On that September night, when the hours
were beginning to draw towards dawn, it gave me great pleasure to see him
hanging in the East, while Sirius with undiminished courage merrily
twinkled above the smoke-fringed horizon and told us of the eternal
quietness of space.
With dawn the enemy’s artillery became less active and we sent off the
wounded. Those who could walk were compelled to follow the bearer
parties. One man, who was not badly hit, had lost his nerve and refused to
leave. The doctor had to tell him sharply that he need not expect to be
carried, as there were too many serious cases to be attended to. I went over
to him and offered him my arm. At first he refused to come, and then I
explained to him that he was in great danger and the thing to do was to get
back as quickly as possible, if he did not wish to be wounded again. At last
I got him going at a slow pace, and I was afraid I should have to drag him
along. Suddenly a shell landed near us, and his movements were filled with
alacrity. It was a great relief to me. After a little while he found he could
walk quite well and whenever a whiz-bang came near us his limbs seemed
to get additional strength. I took him down to a place were a battalion was
camped, and there I had to stop and bury some men in a shell hole. While
I was taking the service however, my companion persuaded some men to
carry him, and I suppose finally reached a place of safety.
There was a large dressing station in the cellars of the Red Château in
Courcelette, whither I made my way on a Sunday morning in September.
The fighting at the time was very heavy and I met many ambulances
bringing out the wounded. I passed Pozières and turned down the sunken
road towards Courcelette.
Beside the road was a dugout and shelter, where the wounded, who
were carried in on stretchers from Courcelette, were kept until they could
be shipped off in the ambulances. A doctor and some men were in charge
of the post. The bearers, many of whom were German prisoners, were
bringing out the wounded over the fields and laying them by the roadside.
I went with some of the bearers past “Dead Man’s Trench,” where were
many German bodies. Every now and then we came upon a trench where
men were in reserve, and we saw also many machine gun emplacements,
for the rise in the ground gave the gun a fine sweep for its activity. The
whole neighbourhood, however, was decidedly unhealthy, and it was risky
work for the men to go over the open. When we got to the ruins of
Courcelette, we turned down a path which skirted the old cemetery and
what remained of the church. Several shells fell near us, and one of the men
The Battle of the Somme 119
a comfort it was to know that he had received the Sacrament. I did not leave
the Red Château till late the following afternoon, when I went back with a
ration-party.
The most unpleasant things at Albert were the air raids, which occurred
every fine night. One moonlight night I lay on my bed, which was in the top
storey of our house, and listened to some German planes dropping bombs
upon the town. The machines were flying low and trying to get the roads.
Crash would follow crash with great regularity. They came nearer and
nearer, and I was just waiting for the house to be struck when, to my great
relief, the planes went off in another direction. Next day a sentry told me
that he had heard a hundred bombs burst, and, as far as he knew, not one of
them had done any damage, all having fallen among the ruined houses and
gardens of the town.
I had been asked to look up the grave of a young officer of a Scottish
battalion, who had been killed in the July advance. I rode over to Mametz
and saw all that historic fighting ground. The village was a heap of ruins,
but from out of a cellar came a smartly-dressed lieutenant, who told me that
he had the great privilege and honour of being the Town Major of Mametz.
We laughed as we surveyed his very smelly and unattractive little kingdom.
I found the grave, and near it were several crosses over the last resting
places of some of our Canadian Dragoons, who had been in the great
advance. All that region was one of waste and lonely country-side, blown
bare by the tempest of war.
It was during our last visit to Albert that the 4th Division arrived to take
over the line from us. I had the great joy, therefore, of having my second
son near me for six days. His battalion, the 87th, was camped on a piece of
high ground to the right of “Tara Hill,” and from my window I could see
the officers and men walking about in their lines. It was a great privilege to
have his battalion so near me, for I had many friends among all ranks.
The Sunday before I left I had service for them and a celebration of the
Holy Communion, after which one of the sergeants came and was baptized.
Our Divisional Headquarters left Albert for good on October 17th. We made
our way to our abode at Canaples. We only stayed there two days and then
went on to Bernaville and Frohen Le Grand, spending a night in each place,
and on Sunday arrived at the Château of Le Cauroy, which we were
afterwards to make our headquarters in the last year of the war. I was
billetted in a filthy little room in a sort of farm building and passed one of
the most dreary days I have ever known. It was rainy and cold, and every
one was tired and ill-humoured. I had a strange feeling of gloom about me
which I could not shake off, so I went over to the Curé’s house at the end
of the avenue and asked him if I might come in and sit beside the fire in his
The Battle of the Somme 121
kitchen. He was very kind, and it was quite nice to have someone to talk to
who was not in the war. We were able to understand each other pretty well,
and he gave me an insight into the feelings of the French. On the next
morning, the weather had cleared and the A.D.M.S. motored me to our new
halting place at Roellencourt, where I was given a billet in the Curé’s
house. He was a dear old man and received me very kindly, and gave me a
comfortable room overlooking his garden. Downstairs his aged and invalid
mother sat in her chair, tended kindly by her son and daughter.
Roellencourt was a pleasant place on the St. Pol Road, and quite a number
of our men were billeted there. I went to St. Pol to lunch at the hotel and
spent the day buying some souvenirs. On my return in the afternoon I made
my way to the Curé’s house, where I found my room neatly arranged for
me. Suddenly I heard a knock at the door, and there stood the old man with
a letter in his hand. I thought he looked somewhat strange. He handed me
the letter, and then taking my hand, he said to me in French, “My brother,
have courage, it is very sad.” At once the truth flashed upon me and I said,
“My son is dead.” He shook my hand, and said again, “Have courage, my
brother.” I went downstairs later on and found his old mother sitting in her
chair with the tears streaming down her cheeks. I shall never cease to be
grateful to those kind, simple people for their sympathy at that time. The
next morning the General sent me in his car to Albert, and Colonel Ironside
took me up to the chalk-pit where the 87th were resting. They had suffered
very heavy losses, and I heard the account of my son’s death. On the
morning of October 21st, he was leading his company and another to the
attack on Regina Trench. They had advanced, as the barrage lifted, and he
was kneeling in a shell hole looking at his watch waiting for the moment to
charge again, when a machine gun opened fire and he was hit in the head
and killed instantly. As he still kept kneeling looking at his watch, no one
knew that anything had happened. The barrage lifted again behind the
German trench; still he gave no sign. The Germans stood up and turned
their machine-guns on our men. Then the officer next in command went
over to see what had happened, and, finding my son dead, gave the order
to advance. Suffering heavy casualties, the men charged with determination
and took the trench, completely routing the enemy. When the battalion was
relieved the dead had to be left unburied, but several men volunteered to go
and get my son’s body. This I would not hear of, for the fighting was still
severe, and I did not believe in living men risking their lives to bring out
the dead. I looked far over into the murky distance, where I saw long ridges
of brown land, now wet with a drizzling rain, and thought how gloriously
consecrated was that soil, and how worthy to be the last resting place of
those who had died for their country. Resolving to come back later on when
122 The Battle of the Somme
things were quieter, and make my final search, I bid good-bye to the
officers and men of the battalion and was motored back to my
Headquarters.
In the little church of Roellencourt hangs a crucifix which I gave the
Curé in memory of my son. It is near the chancel-arch in the place which
the old man chose for it. Some day I hope I may re-visit my kind friends at
the Presbytère and talk over the sad events of the past in the light of the
peace that has come through victory.
123
one day was out in No Man’s Land when a minnenwerfer burst. Alberta did
not wait for the bits to come down, but made one dive into the trench, to the
amusement of the men, who said she knew the use of the trenches. She was
my constant companion till her untimely end in 1918.
The country round about Camblain l’Abbé was very peaceful and
pretty, and the road to the left from the Château gave one a fine view of the
towers of Mont St. Eloi, which were not then damaged by shells. The two
towers and the front wall of the old abbey were a striking object against the
horizon, and could be seen for miles around. They made a beautiful picture
in the distance when seen at sunset from the trenches beyond Arras. Those
two towers must stand out in the foreground of all the memories which
Canadians have of that region which was so long their war-home. As far as
I could learn, Mont St. Eloi had been the site of an old monastery which
had been destroyed in the French Revolution, the towers and the walls of
the church alone surviving. The farms of the monastery had passed to
secular ownership, but were rich and well cultivated. A spiral stone
staircase led up to an observation post at the top of one of the towers. The
place was visible from the German lines, and till we had taken Vimy Ridge
no one was allowed to climb the tower unless on duty.
Our trenches now were extremely quiet, and were a pleasant contrast
to those we had left on the Somme. The whole Corps had only a few
casualties each day. The spirits of the men, who had been under a heavy
strain, were now completely restored. Our Corps Headquarters at this time
were at the beautiful Château of Ranchicourt, where they were very
comfortably settled, the country round about being hilly, richly wooded and
well watered. We had church parades in the cinema, and I often wished that
the people at home could have heard the singing of the men when we had
some favourite hymn which the band accompanied. Every morning I had
a celebration of the Holy Communion there, and sometimes had a good
congregation. One night I was talking to some men in a cookhouse on the
opposite side of the village and I announced the service. When I was
leaving, one of the men followed me and asked me if I would speak to his
officer for him and get him sent back to some quiet job. He told me that he
had once had an attack of nervous prostration, caused by the shock of his
father’s sudden death, and that he could not stand life in the trenches. He
seemed very much upset, and I felt that perhaps it would be wise to get him
out of the line, but I could not avoid a sense of disappointment in the midst
of my pity. He told me that he had been confirmed, but had never made his
Communion and was coming to my service the next morning. I promised
I would speak to his officer and went off.
The next morning, the man was at the service, and after the others left,
Our Home at Camblain l’Abbé 125
is now, but he conquered; and like many another soldier in the great
crusade will be the better for all eternity for his self-mastery.
On the road which led to Ranchicourt there was an interesting old
chateau at a place called Ohlain, which is mentioned by Dumas in “The
Three Musketeers.” The chateau is surrounded by a large moat, and was
built in medieval times. It has a very fine tower, and some other old
buildings surrounding a little courtyard with a garden. The place is entered
by a drawbridge which in olden days used to be raised up against the
massive gateway by chains. One night I had service in the courtyard at
sunset, with the 16th Battalion. One could hardly imagine a more
picturesque setting for a war service in dear old France. At one point,
however, we were disturbed by the arrival of three men who had been
dining in an estaminet in the village, and coming unexpectedly upon a
church service were a little too hearty in their religious fervour. They had
to be guided to some quiet spot where they might work it off in solitude.
Incidents of that kind during voluntary services were always a little
embarrassing, for officers and men felt, as well as myself, that under the
softening influences of religion we could not be over-hard on the
transgressions of frail mortality. Nothing but the direst necessity would
compel us at such times to resort to the process of military discipline.
Near Camblain l’Abbé, our ambulances were set up on an elevation of
the ground where two roads crossed. The place rejoiced in the name of
“The Four Winds,” and anyone who has resided there for any length of time
feels that the title is an appropriate one. At times the wind would sweep
over the place, and, when rain was mingled with the gale, it was rather an
unpleasant corner. But the ambulances were comfortable, and the patients
were well looked after. Near by is the little cemetery, where the bodies of
many Canadians lie in peace.
Our life at Camblain l’Abbé, after the hard fighting at the Somme, was
really very pleasant, and the battalions were filled up with new drafts from
the Base. We felt that as the winter was approaching there would probably
be no hard fighting for some months. Special pains were taken to provide
concert parties in the different battalions, so that the men might have
amusement in the evening. It was wonderful what talent was discovered in
the various units. As I look back upon some of those entertainments at the
front I think I never enjoyed anything more. Not only were the performers
clever and resourceful, but the audience was one that it was thrilling to sit
amongst. In the cinema the stage was well appointed and lighted with
electric lights; the costumes of the men, especially those who took the part
of ladies, were good and well made. The music, vocal and instrumental,
was all that could be desired. But the audience, composed of hundreds of
Our Home at Camblain l’Abbé 127
strong, keen, young men who had endured hard things, and perhaps, in a
few hours after the show, would be once again facing death in the front
trenches, was a sight never to be forgotten. Could any performer ask for a
more sympathetic hearing? Not a joke was lost upon the men, not a gesture
was unobserved; and when some song with a well-known chorus was
started, through the murky atmosphere of cigarette smoke would rise a
volume of harmony which would fairly shake the building. I have often
stood at the back and listened to a splendid burst of song, which to me had
an added charm from the deep unconscious pathos of it all. Some of those
men that were joining in the rollicking ragtime tune were dying men. Some
of the eyes kindling with laughter at the broad farce of the play, within a
few hours would be gazing upon the mysteries behind the screen of mortal
life. The pathetic chorus of “A Long, Long Trail” always moved me, and
I wondered how many of those brave young hearts in the crowded hall, now
on “the long, long trail,” would ever see again the land of their dreams. I
took good care not to let the men know that I was ever moved by such
sentimentalism. We were out to fight the Germans, and on that one object
we had to concentrate all our thoughts to the obliteration of private
emotions.
128
e had now reached the middle of November, and the 4th Division was
W expected to come north very soon. My only chance of finding my
son’s body lay in my making a journey to Albert before his battalion moved
away. I woke up one morning and determined that I would start that day. I
told Ross to get my trench clothes and long boots ready, for I was going to
Albert. At luncheon my friends asked me how I proposed to travel, for
Albert was nearly fifty miles away. I told them that the Lord would provide,
and sallied off down the road with my knapsack, thoroughly confident that
I should be able to achieve my purpose. An ambulance picked me up and
took me to the Four Winds cross-roads, and then a lorry carried me to
Aubigny. I went to the field canteen to get some cigarettes, and while there
I met a Canadian Engineer officer whom I knew. We talked about many
things, and as we were leaving I told him that I was going forth in faith as
I hoped to get to Albert that evening. I said, “You know my motto is ‘The
Lord will provide’.” As we walked along we came to a turn in the road,
where we saw at a little distance a side-car with a driver all ready. I said to
my friend, “It is just the thing I want. I think I will go to the owner of that
car and say to him that the Lord has provided it for me.” He burst out
laughing and said, “I am the owner of that car, and you may have it.” I
thanked him and started off. It was a long ride, and at the end a very wet
and muddy one, but I got to Tara Hill that evening and had dinner at
General Thacker’s Headquarters. I told the officers there of the purpose of
My Search is Rewarded 129
my visit, that I was going up to the front line the next morning, and asked
if they would telephone to one of the batteries and tell the O.C. that I
should arrive some time in the middle of the night. The Brigade Major of
course tried to dissuade me, but I told him that I was going in any case, that
he was not responsible for my actions, but that if he liked to make thing
easier for me he could. He quite understood the point, and telephoned to the
11th Battery. I then went back to the reserve headquarters of the 4th Division
in the town, and prepared myself for the journey. When I had to make an
early start in the morning, I always shaved the night before, because I
thought that, of all the officers, the chaplain should look the freshest and
cleanest. I was in the middle of the process of shaving, and some staff
officers were making chocolate for our supper, when a German plane came
over and dropped a huge bomb in the garden. It was about one a.m., and we
could not help laughing at the surprise the Germans would have felt if they
could have seen our occupation going on quite undisturbed by their attempt
to murder us.
About half-past one, I started up the street which led to the Bapaume
road. The moon was shining, and I could see every object distinctly. Near
our old Headquarters I got a lift in a lorry, which took me almost to
Pozières. There I got out and proceeded on my way alone. I entered the
Y.M.C.A. hut and had a good strong cup of coffee, and started off afresh.
That lonely region in the moonlight with the ruined village to one side and
the fields stretching far away on either hand gave me an eerie feeling. I
came upon four dead horses which had been killed that evening. To add to
the strangeness of the situation, there was a strong scent of tear-gas in the
air, which made my eyes water. Not a living soul could I see in the long
white road.
Suddenly I heard behind me the sound of a troop of horses. I turned and
saw coming towards me one of the strangest sights I have ever seen, and
one which fitted in well with the ghostly character of the surroundings. It
was a troop of mounted men carrying ammunition. They wore their gas
masks, and as they came nearer, and I could see them more distinctly in the
moonlight, the long masks with their two big glass eye-pieces gave the men
a horse-like appearance. They looked like horses upon horses, and did not
seem to be like human beings at all. I was quite glad when they had passed.
I walked on till I came to what was known as Centre Way. It was a path,
sometimes with bath-mats on it, which led across the fields down to the
battery positions in the valley. Huge shell holes, half filled with water,
pitted the fields in every direction, and on the slippery wood I had great
difficulty to keep from sliding into those which were skirted by the path.
Far off beyond Courcelette I saw the German flare-lights and the bursting
130 My Search is Rewarded
but we discovered nothing but a large piece of a shell. Then I got him to try
in another place, and still we could find nothing. I tried once again, and
after he had dug a little while he came upon something white. It was my
son’s left hand, with his signet ring upon it. They had removed his
identification disc, revolver and pocket-book, so the signet ring was the
only thing which could have led to his identification. It was really quite
miraculous that we should have made the discovery. The mist was lifting
now, and the sun to the East was beginning to light up the ground. We
heard the crack of bullets, for the Germans were sniping us. I made the
runner go down into a shell hole, while I read the burial service, and then
took off the ring. I looked over the ground where the charge had been made.
There lay Regina Trench, and far beyond it, standing out against the
morning light, I saw the villages of Pys and Miraumont which were our
objective. It was a strange scene of desolation, for the November rains had
made the battle fields a dreary, sodden waste. How many of our brave men
had laid down their lives as the purchase price of that consecrated soil!
Through the centuries to come it must always remain sacred to the hearts
of Canadians. We made a small mound where the body lay, and then by
quick dashes from shell hole to shell hole we got back at last to the
communication trench, and I was indeed thankful to feel that my mission
had been successful. I have received letters since I returned to Canada from
the kind young fellow, who accompanied me on the journey, and I shall
never cease to be grateful to him. I left him at his headquarters in Death
Valley, and made my way past Courcelette towards the road. As the trench
was very muddy, I got out of it, and was walking along the top when I came
across something red on the ground. It was a piece of a man’s lung with the
windpipe attached. I suppose some poor lad had had a direct hit from a
shell and his body had been blown to pieces. The Germans were shelling
the road, so with some men I met we made a detour through the fields and
joined it further on, and finally got to the chalk-pit where the 87th Battalion
was waiting to go in again to the final attack. I was delighted to see my
friends once more, and they were thankful that I had been able to find the
grave. Not many days afterwards, some of those whom I then met were
called themselves to make the supreme sacrifice. I spent that night at the
Rear Headquarters of the 4th Division, and they kindly sent me back the
next day to Camblain l’Abbé in one of their cars.
On November 24th I received a telegram saying that a working party of
one of the battalions of the 4th Division had brought my son’s body back,
and so on the following day I motored once again to Albert and laid my
dear boy to rest in the little cemetery on Tara Hill, which he and I had seen
when he was encamped near it, and in which now were the bodies of some
132 My Search is Rewarded
of his friends whom I had met on my last visit. I was thankful to have been
able to have him buried in a place which is known and can be visited, but
I would say to the many parents whose sons lie now in unknown graves,
that, after all, the grave seems to be a small and minor thing in view of the
glorious victory and triumphant life which is all that really matters. If I had
not been successful in my quest, I should not have vexed my soul with
anxious thought as to what had become of that which is merely the earthly
house of the immortal spirit which goes forth into the eternal. Let those
whose dear ones lie in unrecorded graves remember that the strong, glad
spirits–like Valiant for Truth in “Pilgrim’s Progress”–have passed through
the turbulent waters of the river of death, and “all the trumpets have
sounded for them on the other side.”
In June of the following year, when the Germans had retired after our
victory at Vimy Ridge, I paid one more visit to Regina Trench. The early
summer had clothed the waste land in fresh and living green. Larks were
singing gaily in the sunny sky. No sound of shell or gun disturbed the
whisper of the breeze as it passed over the sweet-smelling fields. Even the
trenches were filling up and Mother Nature was trying to hide the cruel
wounds which the war had made upon her loving breast. One could hardly
recall the visions of gloom and darkness which had once shrouded that
scene of battle. In the healing process of time all mortal agonies, thank
God, will be finally obliterated.
133
t was certain now that all serious fighting was at an end till next spring,
I so everyone settled down to his work with a sense of relief and tried to
make the best of things. A few days after my return from Albert I went to
England.
On my return to France, I heard with some regret that our Divisional
Headquarters were going to move, and that the Corps would make
Camblain l’Abbé their headquarters. On December 20th we moved back to
the town of Bruay, where we were to stay till after the New Year. Bruay in
comparison with Camblain l’Abbé is a large and thriving town, all the
inhabitants being more or less connected with the mines in the
neighbourhood. Our Headquarters were in the administration building of
the Mining Company, in a square, and I had a billet in a street near by.
There was a good theatre in the place, which our 1st Divisional Concert
party took over, and where I had services on Sunday. In and around the
town were several of the battalions; the rest of the division were in the
villages near by. Bruay had not been shelled, and the mines were being
worked as in pre-war days. It was a comfort to have the men out of the line
once again, and the roads round about were very pleasant, the country being
hilly and unspoilt. Bethune was within easy reach, and a visit to the quaint
town made a pleasant afternoon’s ride.
Rumours were abroad that with the opening of Spring we were to begin
an offensive, and it was generally believed that towards the close of the
134 A Time of Preparation
next year we might hope for the end of hostilities. Our men were being
trained, when weather permitted, in open warfare, and the time of so-called
rest was really a period of constant activity. The chief hotel in the place
became an officers’ club, and very pleasant were the reunions we had there.
I was glad we were going to spend Christmas out of the line, and
determined to take advantage of the theatre as a place for Christmas
services. The 8th and 14th Battalions were quartered in the town, besides
some smaller units, so we had a good many men to draw upon for a
congregation. On Christmas Eve, at half-past eleven, I had a celebration of
the Holy Communion. We had a splendid band to play the Christmas
hymns, and a large number of men attended. The stage was made to look
as much as possible like a chancel, and the service was very hearty. Many
made their communion. I also had a watch-night service on New Year’s
Eve. The theatre was almost filled with men–there were rows of them even
in the gallery. It was an inspiring sight, and we all felt we were beginning
a year that was to decide the destinies of the Empire. I told the men that
somewhere in the pages of the book which we were opening that night lay
hidden the tremendous secret of our success or failure. At ten minutes to
twelve we sat in silence, while the band played Chopin’s Funeral March.
It was almost too moving, for once again the vision came before us of the
terrible battle-fields of the Somme and the faces that had gone. Then we all
rose, and there was a brief moment for silent prayer. At midnight the
buglers of the 14th Battalion sounded the Last Post, and at the close the
band struck up the hymn “O God our help in ages past.” A mighty chorus
of voices joined in the well-known strains. After the Benediction, I went
down to the door and shook hands with as many of the men as I could and
wished them a happy New Year. No one who was at that service will ever
forget it. As we found out, the trail before us was longer than we had
expected, and the next New Year’s Eve found many of us, though, alas, not
all, in that theatre once more, still awaiting the issue of the conflict.
In January, I paid a flying visit to the Canadian Cavalry Headquarters
at Tully near Abbeville, and saw many old friends. On my return, I had a
curious experience which throws a light upon railway travelling at the
Front. A friend had motored me to Abbeville that afternoon, just in time to
catch a leave-train full of men returning from England. I only wanted to go
as far as St. Pol, about thirty miles off, where I hoped to get a car for Bruay.
I got into a carriage with four officers, one of whom was a chaplain who
had just been decorated with the D.S.O. I had crossed the Channel with him
once before, so was glad to renew our acquaintance. The train left
Abbeville about four o’clock. We found ourselves in a second-class
compartment. The windows were broken, the floor was dirty, and there was
A Time of Preparation 135
Barlin was not a bad place of residence. There were many men within easy
reach, and I had an upper room in the Town Hall for use as a chapel. The
presence of a well equipped British hospital also gave one opportunities of
seeing our wounded men. We had come to know by this time that the first
task which lay before us in the opening of spring was the taking of Vimy
Ridge, and our life became filled with fresh zest and interest in view of the
coming attack.
On the 15th of March our Division moved up to a place called Ecoivres,
where we were billeted in the old Château. The Count who owned the
Château kept some rooms downstairs for himself, but we occupied all the
rest of the building. In the hall upstairs we had a large model of Vimy
Ridge, which all the officers and men of the battalions visited in turn, in
order to study the character of the land over which they had to charge. In
the garden were numerous huts, and in a large building in a street to the
right of the Château was a billet which held a great number of men. It was
almost entirely filled up with tiers upon tiers of wooden shelves, on which
the men made their beds. They were reached by wooden stairs. Nearly
fifteen hundred men were crowded into the building. On the ground floor
beside the door, there was a high platform which commanded a view of the
whole interior. On this, one of the bands lived and gave us music in the
evening. Every night after dinner, I used to go to the cinema, as we called
the place, and have either a service or a talk with the men on general
subjects. At such times outsiders would crowd in, and we have had very
hearty singing when the band struck up a hymn. I always tried to have some
piece of good news to announce, and would get the latest reports from the
signallers to read aloud. The men were in splendid spirits, and we were all
buoyed up with the hope that we were going to end the war. I used to speak
about the war outlook, and would tell the men that there were only two
issues before us: Victory or Slavery. When I asked them one night “Which
shall it be, Boys?” a loud shout of “Victory!” went up.
News was not always plentiful, and it was a little hard at times to find
anything particularly interesting to say, and so, one night I determined to
make a variation. I told the men that on the next evening, if they would
bring in questions to me on any subject which had been troubling them, I
should be very glad to try to give an answer. I thought that an entertainment
of that kind might be both attractive and helpful. On the next evening,
therefore, I ascended the platform as usual and found the place crowded
with men. I had my acetylene lamp with me to furnish light for reading any
questions that might be sent up. I called the meeting to order, and then
asked if any men had any questions to ask. To my great delight, someone
at the back held an envelope above the crowd, and it was passed up to me.
A Time of Preparation 137
I tore it open, and, holding my lamp in one hand, without first looking over
the letter, I read it aloud to the men, who were hushed in the silence of
anticipation. I give it just as it was written:–
“Somewhere in France,
3/4/17.
Dear Sir:–
I am going to ask you a question which has been a load to my little bit of
mental capacity for a period of months. Often have I woke up in the old
dugout, my hair standing straight up and one eye looking straight into the
eyeball of the other, trying to obtain an answer to this burning question. I have
kept my weary vigil over the parapet at night, with my rifle in one hand and a
couple of bombs in the other, and two or three in each pocket, and still I am
pondering over this burning question. I will now ask you the question. W hen
do you think this God dam war will be over, eh?”
stories were told about the fighting that had taken place in it between the
French and the Germans at the beginning of the war. I went down into it
one evening when the 16th Battalion was there. It was a most picturesque
place. The walls and roof were white chalk and the place was cut up by
passages and openings which led into other caves. The atmosphere was
smoky, and a multitude of candles lit up the strange abode. The men were
cooking in their mess tins, some were playing cards, and some were
examining the seams of their shirts. I told them I was going to have a
service at one end of the cavern and I proceeded thither with a good number
following. Some of the card players seemed too interested in their game to
care to attend, and so I called out to the men in a loud voice not to make too
much noise, lest they should disturb the gamblers. One of the men who was
playing cards responded “If you will wait till we have finished this hand,
Sir, we will all come too.” I made the announcement therefor that we would
not begin till the players were ready. The result of this was that in a very
little while all the men came and joined in the service.
The possession of the Ridge gave the Germans a great advantage,
because it commanded a view of a very large piece of country and several
main roads. Further up the road from Maison Blanche there was a place
called Arriane Dump, where the Engineers had stored material in
preparation for our attack. A long plank road connected it with the
Anzin-St. Eloi road. On a dark and rainy night that wooden track was an
unpleasant place for a walk. Lorries, wagons, limbers, transports, horses
and men crowded it, and the traffic every now and then would get blocked.
No flashlights could be used, and it was hard to escape being run over. Yet
to step off the boards meant to sink almost to your knees in mud. The
language that one heard at such times in the darkness was not quite fit for
ears polite. It is well that the horses were not able to understand the
uncomplimentary speeches that were addressed to them.
There was a tremendous concentration of artillery in the back area. The
town of Anzin, on the bank of the river Scarpe, was filled with heavy
batteries. To ride through it was to run the risk of many unpleasant
surprises from the sudden firing of big guns by the wayside. Once, I was
approaching an apparently harmless hole in a brick wall, when all of a
sudden Dandy and I found ourselves enveloped in flame and almost
stunned by a huge report. As we bounded past the hole, I saw a large gun
moving up and down under the force of its recoil, and with smoke still
curling out of its mouth.
The siege battery in which my third son was a gunner had now arrived
and taken up its position in a field behind Anzin, where a 15-inch howitzer
sent forth its deadly missives to the Germans every fifteen minutes and in
A Time of Preparation 139
return drew their fire. One day a shell burst in a hut used by some Railway
Troops. A large number of them were wounded and eleven killed, whom
I buried in a row on the hillside.
On the 4th of April, we received news that America had declared war
upon Germany. I thanked God in my heart that at last the English-speaking
world had been drawn together, and I knew that the effect upon the
Germans would be disastrous. I rode out that afternoon to give the good
news to our men. I met a British Battalion coming out of the line, looking
very tired and hungry. They were resting by the roadside, and I passed
along and cheered them by telling them that the United States had now
come in definitely as one of our Allies, and that I thought the effect would
be the shortening of the war. America’s decision could not have come at a
better time. The year was opening out before us, and the initiative was
coming into our hands The prospect was bright and our men were keen for
the encounter.
April 6th was Good Friday. It was impossible to have service at
Ecoivres, as everyone was so busy, so I rode over to Anzin and had service
for the 7th Siege Battery in an empty Nissen hut. Most of the men of the
battery were present, and I had forty communicants. The place was lit by
candles which every now and then were extinguished by the firing of the
fifteen-inch gun nearby. Easter Day was originally intended to be the day
for our attack, but it had been postponed till Monday. We could not do
much in the way of observing the great feast. Every room and shed in the
town was filled, and men were lying out under rubber sheets in the fields.
I had two celebrations of the Holy Communion in the Y.M.C.A. hut, the
floor of which was covered with sleeping men. I managed to clear a little
space on the stage for the altar. Of course, not many attended, but at one of
the services was an officer who had won the V.C. and the D.S.O. and had
a foreign Decoration as well. In the afternoon I visited and gave an address
to one of the battalions moving up the line. I also had a service in the
cinema that evening.
It was a time of mingled anxiety and exhilaration. What did the next
twenty-four hours hold in store for us? Was it to be a true Easter for the
world, and a resurrection to a new and better life? If death awaited us, what
nobler passage could there be to Eternity than such a death in such a cause?
Never was the spirit of comradeship higher in the Canadian Corps. Never
was there a greater sense of unity. The task laid upon us was a tremendous
one, but in the heart of each man, from private to general, was the
determination that it should be performed. On that Easter night, the
battalions took their places in the line. The men at the guns, which had
hitherto been concealed and kept silent, were ready to open fire at zero
140 A Time of Preparation
hour, and all along that front the eager heart of Canada waited impatiently
for the dawn.
141
y alarm clock went off at four a.m. on the great day of April 9th, which
M will always shine brightly in the annals of the war. I got up and ate
the breakfast which I had prepared the night before, and taking with me my
tin of bully-beef, I started off to see the opening barrage. It was quite dark
when I emerged from the door of the Château and passed the sentry at the
gate. I went through the village of Ecoivres, past the Crucifix by the
cemetery, and then turning to the right went on to a path which led up to
Bray Hill on the St. Eloi road. I found some men of one of our battalions
bent on the same enterprise. We got into the field and climbed the hill, and
there on the top of it waited for the attack to begin. The sky was overcast,
but towards the east the grey light of approaching dawn was beginning to
appear. It was a thrilling moment. Human lives were at stake. The honour
of our country was at stake. The fate of civilization was at stake.
Far over the dark fields, I looked towards the German lines, and, now
and then, in the distance I saw a flare-light appear for a moment and then
die away. Now and again, along our nine-mile front, I saw the flash of a
gun and heard the distant report of a shell. It looked as if the war had gone
to sleep, but we knew that all along the line our trenches were bristling with
energy and filled with men animated with one resolve, with one fierce
determination. It is no wonder that to those who have been in the war and
passed through such moments, ordinary life and literature seem very tame.
The thrill of such a moment is worth years of peace-time existence. To the
142 The Capture of Vimy Ridge
signal for some time, and it was thought that they might have been held up.
Someone, however looked at his watch and then at the schedule time of
attack, and found that at that particular moment the men were to rest for ten
minutes before pressing on. The instant the time for advance came, rockets
were sent up to show that our men were still going ahead. I went up the
road to Neuville St. Vaast, where there was an aid post, and there I saw the
wounded coming in, some walking, with bandaged arms and heads, and
some being brought in on stretchers. They were all in high spirits and said
that the attack had been a great success. Of course, the walking wounded
were the first to appear, the more serious cases came afterwards, but still
there was the note of triumph in all the accounts of the fighting which I
heard. I moved on to a track near Maison Blanche, and then followed up the
men. The ridge by this time was secured and our front line was still
pressing forward on the heels of the retreating Germans. It was a glorious
moment. The attack which we had looked forward to and prepared for so
long had been successful. The Germans had been taken by surprise and the
important strategic point which guarded the rich coal fields of Northern
France was in our possession.
The sight of the German trenches was something never to be forgotten.
They had been strongly held and had been fortified with an immense maze
of wire. But now they were ploughed and shattered by enormous shell
holes. The wire was twisted and torn and the whole of that region looked
as if a volcanic upheaval had broken the crust of the earth. Hundreds of
men were now walking over the open in all directions. German prisoners
were being hurried back in scores. Wounded men, stretcher-bearers and
men following up the advance were seen on all sides, and on the ground lay
the bodies of friends and foes who had passed to the Great Beyond. I met
a British staff officer coming back from the front, who told me he belonged
to Army Headquarters. He asked me if I was a Canadian, and when I
replied that I was, he said, “I congratulate you upon it.” I reminded him that
British artillery were also engaged in the attack and should share in the
glory. “That may be,” he said, “but, never since the world began have men
made a charge with finer spirit. It was a magnificent achievement.”
Our burial parties were hard at work collecting the bodies of those who
had fallen, and the chaplains were with them. I met some of the battalions,
who, having done their part in the fighting, were coming back. Many of
them had suffered heavily and the mingled feelings of loss and gain
chastened their exaltation and tempered their sorrow. I made my way over
to the ruins of the village of Thélus on our left, and there I had my lunch in
a shell hole with some men, who were laughing over an incident of the
attack. So sudden had been our advance that a German artillery officer who
144 The Capture of Vimy Ridge
of one of our battalions that our men could not resist following them. They
were actually rushing into the zone of our own fire in order to get at them.
A gallant young lieutenant, who afterwards won the V.C., seeing the
danger, with great pluck, ran in front of the men and halted them with the
words, “Stop, Boys, give the barrage a chance.”
In spite of the numbers of wounded and dying men which I had seen,
the victory was such a complete and splendid one that April 9th, 1917, was
one of the happiest days in my life, and when I started out from the
signallers dugout on my way back to Ecoivres, and passed the hill where I
had seen the opening of the great drama in the early morning, my heart was
full of thankfulness to Almighty God for his blessing on our arms. I arrived
at my room in the Château at about half past two a.m., very tired and very
happy. I made myself a large cup of strong coffee, on my primus stove, ate
a whole tin of cold baked beans, and then turned in to a sound slumber,
filled with dreams of victory and glory, and awoke well and fit in the
morning, more than ever proud of the grand old First Division which, as
General Horne told us later, had made a new record in British war annals
by taking every objective on the scheduled dot of the clock.
147
line of lorries, guns and limbers. We were very comfortable, and at night
when the winds were blowing and the rain was coming down in sheets, it
was not half bad after dinner to read aloud Tennyson’s “Ulysses” or other
of my favourite poems. I am not sure that I did not at times, relying upon
the inclemency of the weather overhead, recite some of my own. I know
that one morning, when I had awakened at about four o’clock, I turned on
the light of a storage battery which I had found in a German dugout, and
sitting up wrote the verses which I called “The Silent Toast” and which my
artillery friends approved of when I recited them at breakfast.
The aftermath of victory is of course very sad. Many were the gallant
men whose bodies were laid to rest in the little cemetery at Ecoivres. The
cemetery is well kept and very prettily situated. The relatives of those who
are buried there will be pleased to find the graves so carefully preserved.
The large crucifix which stands on a mound near the gate is most
picturesquely surrounded by trees. In the mound some soldier, probably a
Frenchman, had once made a dugout. The site was evidently chosen with
the idea that crucifixes were untouched by shells, and therefore places of
refuge from danger. I often thought, as I looked at the crucifix with the
human shelter beneath it, that it might stand as a symbol of the hymn:–
The engineers had had a dump for their material near the
Bethune-Arras road, and when they moved it forward to a place called the
“Nine Elms,” the engineer officer gave me his dugout, which was partly
beside the road and partly under it. It consisted of several rooms, one of
which contained a bed, and had steps going down to a deep chamber
whither one could retire in case of shelling. It was good to have such a large
and comfortable establishment, and when Alberta was chained up in her
corner and I had strapped myself into my kit bag at night, we both felt very
snug. The only trouble was that visitors kept coming at all hours to ask for
engineering materials, not knowing that the character of the abode had
changed. Early one morning, an officer came in a great hurry, and waking
me up, asked if there were any winches there,–he pronounced the word like
wenches. I sat up in bed and looked at him sternly, and said, “Young man,
this is a religious establishment, I am the Senior Chaplain, and there are no
wenches here.” He did not know quite what to make of the situation. “I
mean wooden ones,” he said. I replied, “Young man, there are no wenches
here, either wooden or any other kind; the engineers have gone forward.”
He apologized and left. On another occasion, in the darkness of middle
A Month on the Ridge 149
night, an Imperial soldier who had lost his way came down the steps and
put his head into my door and began to stammer and hiss in such an
extraordinary way that Alberta was roused and barked furiously. I woke up
with a start and asked what the matter was, but all I could get from the poor
man was a series of noises and hisses. I turned on my flashlight, and a very
muddy face covered with a shock of red hair looked in at the door of my
little room, and with many contortions and winkings, emitted a series of
incomprehensible noises. What with the stammering man and the barking
dog, I was at my wits end to find out the trouble. At last by a process of
synthesis, I pieced the various sounds together and found that the man
wanted the location of a certain British battery. I gave him the best
information I could.
Not far from me, at Arriane Dump, the Chaplain’s Service established
a coffee stall, and there men who were going up to or coming from the line
could get coffee, biscuits and cigarettes at all hours. The neighbourhood
had now become so safe that little huts were being run up in various places.
I asked our C.R.E. to build me a church, and, to my great joy, an officer and
some men were detailed to put up a little structure of corrugated iron. At
one end, over the entrance door, there was a belfry in which was hung a
good sized German gas bell found in the trenches on our advance.
Surmounting the belfry, was a cross painted with luminous paint. Inside the
church, I had an altar with crucifix and candlesticks, and the Union Jack for
a frontal. I also had a lectern and portable organ. The oiled linen in the
windows let in a sufficient quantity of light, and the whole place was
thoroughly church-like. I shall never forget the first service we held in it
when the building was completed. It was in the evening and the sun was
just setting. The air was balmy and spring-like and there was no shelling in
the front line. The bell was rung and the congregation began to collect. I
went over to the church and there I found, lying wrapped in a blanket on a
stretcher beside the building, the body of a poor lad of the 2nd Division. It
could not be buried until word had been received from his battalion. I got
some of the men to carry the stretcher in and lay it in the aisle. I put on my
cassock and surplice, lit the candles, and we had choral evensong, my
organist playing the responses. The little church was filled, and there, in the
midst of us, was one who had entered into his rest. It seemed to me that the
most suitable hymn was:–
All present sang the hymn most heartily, and we felt its
appropriateness. I never hear it now without thinking of that evening
service in St. George’s Church at Arriane Dump. To those at home, I
suppose, it will appear strange that an incident of that kind would not be
almost too moving. At the front, however, death did not seem to be such a
terrible thing–it was part of our life and something to be expected and met
uncomplainingly. Every morning, until we moved, I had a Celebration of
the Holy Communion in the church at eight o’clock, and every evening I
had Evensong at six. I was told long afterwards that when General Horne
paid his first visit to our Battle Headquarters, he pointed to the little iron
structure with its belfry and white cross, and asked what it was. When they
told him it was a church, he said, “A church! Now I know why the
Canadians won Vimy Ridge.” Unfortunately, the point of the observation
was lost by the fact that the church was built, not before, but after we had
taken the Ridge.
When we left Arriane Dump, I handed over the church to the Senior
Chaplain of the British division which took our place, and he had the
building taken down, put in lorries, and re-erected in the village of
Roclincourt, where he adorned it with a painted window of St. George and
the Dragon.
Along the Arras-Bethune road are various cemeteries where the men of
the different battalions are buried. The greatest care was taken in collecting
the dead and making their last resting place as neat and comely as possible.
A plank road was constructed to connect the Bethune-Arras road with the
Lens-Arras road further forward. It lay in a straight line over the broken
ground cut up by trenches and huge craters, and brought one to the
headquarters of the siege battery in which my son was a gunner. On all
sides stretched the plain which our men had won. Far off, on clear days,
one could see in the distance the little hamlets behind the German lines.
We had taken the Ridge, but there were villages in the plain which
were not yet in our hands. I heard there was to be an attack one morning
early. So the night before, I left my dugout at one a.m. It was a strange,
weird walk along the plank road and then down the railway track to Farbus
wood. The barrage was to open at four-thirty, and at four-ten a.m. I walked
into the dugout where the Headquarters of the 3rd Artillery Brigade were.
We waited till four twenty-five, and then I went up to see the barrage.
A Month on the Ridge 151
Before us lay the plain, and all round us on the hillside, except in the space
before us, were trees of Farbus Wood. At four-thirty the barrage opened,
and we had a fine view of the line of bursting shells along the enemy’s
front. For a time our fire was very intense, and when it eased off I started
down the hill to the town of Willerval, where in a dugout I found the
officers of one of our battalions regaling themselves with the bottles of
wine and mineral water which the Germans had left behind them in their
well-stocked cellars. Willerval was badly smashed, but enough was left to
show what a charming place it must have been in the days before the war.
In the shell-ploughed gardens, spring flowers were putting up inquiring
faces, and asking for the smiles and admiration of the flower-lovers who
would tread those broken paths no more. I sat in a quiet place by a ruined
brick wall and tried to disentangle the curious sensations which passed
through the mind, as I felt the breeze lightly fanning my face, smelt the
scent of flowers, heard the skylarks singing, saw the broken houses and
conservatories, and listened to the shells which every now and then fell on
the road to the east of the village. That super-sensitiveness to the charms of
nature, which I have mentioned before, thrilled me with delight. The warm
spring sun beat down from a cloudless sky, and the glorious romance of
being out in the war-zone added to the charm.
One of our ambulances had a dressing station in the cellars of the
Château, and there were a number of German prisoners there who were
waiting their turn as stretcher bearers. From Willerval I went to the dressing
station in the sunken road, where one of our chaplains was hard at work
rendering assistance to the wounded. We had taken Arleux, but of course
had to pay the price, and over the fields in different directions one could
see stretchers being carried, bearing their loads of broken and suffering
bodies. Our grand old Division never failed in taking its objective, and later
on, we advanced from Arleux to Fresnoy, which completed for us our
campaign on Vimy Ridge. The Divisions on each side of us were held up,
but when we left the Ridge we handed over Fresnoy to our successors in the
line. Later, they were obliged to relinquish it.
There is something splendid in the esprit-de-corps of a Division, and
none could be greater than that which animated all the units of the 1st
Canadian Division, or as we were called, “the boys of the old red patch,”
from the red patch which we wore as a distinguishing mark upon our arms.
On May 4th, orders came to us that we had to move, and at night I
walked over the old plank road to say good-bye to my son–for their battery
was to retain its position–and on the next day, followed by little Alberta, I
rode from Arriane Dump to my old billet in Bruay, breaking the journey by
a visit to the 87th Battalion at Château de la Haie. We had returned to our
152 A Month on the Ridge
old quarters covered with glory, and, on all sides, the French people were
sincere in their admiration for what the Canadian Corps had done. It was
certainly delightful to get back to clean billets, and to be able to enjoy the
charming spring weather on roads that were not shelled and in fields that
were rich in the promise of summer. Our Headquarters once again made
their home in the Administration Building in the square, and the usual
round of entertaining went on. During the daytime, battalions practised the
noble art of open warfare. The sense of “Something accomplished,
something done,” inspired our men with the ardour of military life, and
bound us all even closer together in the spirit of valiant comradeship.
153
hree days after we had settled at Bruay I was invited by one of our staff
T officers and the Colonel of one of our battalions to accompany them on
a visit to our old trenches on the Somme. We left in the morning and went
south, over the roads and past the little villages which we knew so well, till
we came to Albert. We went up the Bapaume road, now deserted and
lonely. Our front line was some miles to the east, and so all that waste of
country over which we had fought was now without inhabitants. We left the
motor near Courcelette and walked over the fields to the old trenches where
the First Brigade had made their attack. It was a dreary day. Low clouds
hung over the sky and a cold wind blew from the east. Spring had made
very little advance in those wide fields of death, and the grass was hardly
green, where there was any grass. We walked over the well-known tracks
reviewing incidents of the great battle. We crossed Death Valley and saw
our old lines. The place was so solemn that by mutual agreement we did not
talk, but each went off by himself. I found a number of Canadian and
German bodies still unburied, and all over the fields were rifles and mess
tins, spades and bits of accoutrement. One could hardly imagine a scene
more desolate and forlorn. Every inch of that ground had been fought over
and bought with the price of human blood. The moan of the wind over the
fields seemed like the great lament of Nature for her sons who had gone. It
was impossible to identify the bodies we found, but we knew that burial
parties would soon set to work to collect them. Over each poor brown and
154 A Well-Earned Rest
muddy form I held a short service and used the form of committal from the
burial office in our prayer-book.
It was with a sense of relief that we walked back up the road, past the
ruins of Courcelette, and rejoined the motor. The scene was too painful,
and made too great a pull upon the heart-strings. In the great army of the
slain that lay beneath that waste of mud were many whom we had known
and loved with that peculiar love which binds comrades in the fighting line
to one another–
Once more, at the end of the month, I paid another visit to Regina
Trench, when I was on my way to place a cross over my son’s grave in the
cemetery at Tara Hill. By this time, the grass was green, the trenches were
filling up and in the cloudless blue sky larks were singing. The impression
of dreariness was passing away, and the wounds on the breast of nature
were being healed.
Our life at Bruay as usual was exceedingly pleasant, and the men
thoroughly enjoyed the beauty and the freshness of the country. Games and
sports were indulged in and the nightly entertainments in the theatre given
by our concert party were most enjoyable.
I shall never forget the happy rides on Dandy down the roads and
across the fields to the various battalions and artillery brigades. At every
turn I would meet men whom I knew, and to shake hands with those
glorious lads who had done such great things for the world was an honour
and a privilege. In looking back to that time faces and places come before
me, and I feel once again the warm spring winds over the fields of France,
and see the quaint old villages of Houdain, Ruitz and Hallicourt where our
various battalions were billetted. Sometimes, at exalted moments, I had
meals with generals in their comfortable quarters; sometimes with company
officers; sometimes with the non-coms, but I think the most enjoyable were
those that I took with the men in dirty cook-houses. With a dish-cloth they
would wipe off some old box for a chair, another for a table; then, getting
contributions of cutlery, they would cook me a special dinner and provide
me with a mess-tin of strong hot tea. When the meal was over and
cigarettes had been lighted, general conversation was indulged in, and there
would be talks of home, of war experiences, and many discussions of
religion and politics. One question which was asked me again and again in
trenches and dugouts and billets was–“Are we winning the war?” It may be
hard for people at home to realize how little our men knew of what was
A Well-Earned Rest 155
happening. The majority of them never saw the newspapers, and of course
the monotony of our life and the apparent hopelessness of making any great
advance was a puzzle to them. I never failed to take the question seriously
and give them, as far as I was able, a general idea of the aspect of the war
on the various fronts. In order to be able to do this I read “The Times” daily
with great care. It was really the only paper that one could depend on, and
its marvellous influence on the conduct of the campaign completely
justified its claim to be still the exponent of British policy, and its inherited
right to the title of “The Thunderer.”
Our artillery were still in the line along the Ridge, but our infantry
brigades were all at rest. It was proposed that we should have a
thanksgiving service for victory with each brigade. The Senior Chaplain of
the Corps took the matter in hand with the Senior Chaplain of the Army. A
form of service was printed on slips of paper, and on Sunday, May 13th, we
had services for the three infantry brigades. It was a lovely warm day, and
the services were held at the most convenient points. The 2nd Brigade were
assembled at Ruitz. It was a splendid sight. The 5th, 7th, 8th and 10th
Battalions were drawn up in a great square, generals and staff officers were
present; a band played the hymns and the army chaplain gave us a most
stirring address. The next service was with the 1st Brigade in a field near
Coupigny, where the 1st, 2nd , 3rd and 4th Battalions were drawn up, making
a magnificent show of young, ardent and stalwart manhood. The moment
it was over the general and staff were motored over to the 3rd Brigade at
Château-de-la-Haie. Here were assembled the 13th, 14th, 15th and 16th
Battalions. General Horne attended this Service, and, after the religious
ceremony was over, gave an address. His admiration for the achievement
of our men was evidently sincere, and he always showed the deepest
interest in everything connected with the welfare of the Canadians.
Near Bruay on the way to Houdain were some large aerodromes and
the headquarters of the squadron. I had met their chaplain before at
Armentieres when he was attached to the infantry. He very kindly invited
me up to his quarters, and several times I dined with him at the officers’
mess. He was the chaplain of several squadrons, and had to fly from one to
another to take services on Sundays after the manner of a true “sky pilot.”
He told me some splendid tales of the gallantry of the young men to whom
he had to minister. On one occasion the order was given that six German
observation balloons along the front line had to be brought down, for we
were about to make an advance. Six men were therefore, told off for this
important but dangerous duty. The chaplain told me that at once the
question arose as to how they were to dress for the encounter. Should they
wear old clothes or should they be arrayed in their best? They decided that
156 A Well-Earned Rest
if they were brought down they would like, by their appearance, to do most
credit to their squadron, and so it was determined that they should wear
their newest uniforms. He told me that to him, who knew the dangers
underlying the enterprise, it was most pathetic to see the young fellows in
the highest spirits getting themselves polished up as if they were going to
an investiture at Buckingham Palace. He had thought of having a service of
Holy Communion for them, but there was no time, so he saw them start off
on their voyage telling them that he would follow them with his prayers.
The danger of such an undertaking was very great, as the planes had to fly
low over the German trenches and then rise up and attack the balloons.
That night six young airmen came to dinner in the mess as usual, but there
were six observation balloons less in the German lines.
One night when I went to dinner with the officers of the squadron I was
placed at the right hand of the O.C. He was late in arriving, and I wondered
what sort of man would come to fill the vacant chair. To my surprise, when
we were half way through dinner, a young officer, not much more than a
boy came and took the seat and welcomed me to the mess. I asked him if he
were the Major. He said he was, and on his left breast were several
decorations. I was just going to make some remark about his youthful
appearance when he said, “Now don’t say it, Padré, don’t say I look young,
I really can’t help it.” I had a long and interesting talk with him about his
work. He was full of enthusiasm, and his knowledge of men impressed me
deeply. There was a large number of officers at the table all under his
command. I thought it was wonderful that a man so young should have such
a knowledge of human character. This war has certainly shown that
mellowed age is not such a necessary qualification for right judgment as we
thought it was. Old age has had its day, and the young world, that has just
been born in the anguish and travail of the old, must be “run” by young men
who unite in themselves the qualities of judgment and the love of
adventure. The hut used as a mess-room was most artistically decorated,
and made a fine setting for the noble young fellows, who sat round the table
chaffing one another and laughing as if they never had to face death in the
blinding mists of morning or the blazing sun of noon, with the rain of shells
and machine gun fire falling round them, as they climbed higher and higher
like skylarks into the wide vault of heaven.
On the first of June, we were ordered back to the line, and our
Divisional Headquarters was to be divided. The General and staff were to
be at the advanced position in the huts and dugouts on the La Targette road,
and the non-combatant officers were to be billetted near Villers au Bois in
Château d’Acq, a comfortable modern house with a large garden on one
side and a pleasant tree-covered hill at the back. Here, to my surprise and
A Well-Earned Rest 157
had a nice altar, with the legal ornaments, and an altar rail. We had a
lectern, and the proper number of benches for the congregation. We even
had a font, which was carved out of chalk by the C.R.E.’s batman and given
as an offering to the church. The C.R.E., a most devout and staunch
Presbyterian, was proud of his architectural achievement and told me that
now he had handed over to me a complete church he wished every service
which the Church of England could hold to be celebrated in it. He said, “In
addition to your usual services, I want men to be baptised, to be married,
and to be ordained in that church.” When I protested that possibly no men
could be found desiring these offices, he replied, “The matter is perfectly
simple. Like the centurion in the Bible, I am a man under authority. All I
have to do is to call up ten men and say ‘Go and be baptised tomorrow
morning in Canon Scott’s Church’, and they will go. If they don’t, they will
be put in the guard room. Then I will call up ten more men and say, ‘Go
and be married in Canon Scott’s church.’ If they don’t, I will put them in
the guardroom. Then I will call up ten more men and say, ‘Go and be
ordained in Canon Scott’s church’. If they don’t, I will put them in the
guard room.” All this was said with perfect solemnity. As a matter of fact,
when another division was occupying Château d’Acq, a man really was
baptised in the little church. It was used daily for a time by the Roman
Catholic Chaplain.
A photograph of the building is preserved in the Canadian War Records
Office. The first morning I rang the chime of bells for the early service, our
A.D.M.S. avowed that he, mistaking the character of the sound, and
supposing that it was a warning of a gas attack, sat up in his bed in the
sweltering heat and put on his gas helmet.
From Château d’Acq I used to go and take services for the siege
artillery on the Lens-Arras road, and also at the charmingly situated rest
camp at Fresnicourt. We knew however that a bombing raid might occur at
Château d’Acq on any clear night. Whenever we heard German planes in
the air we always felt how unprotected we were, and it gave us a sense of
relief when the buzzing sound grew fainter and fainter and died off in the
distance.
The cool green shade of the trees made a pleasant roof over our heads
on the hot days of early summer, and at dawn in the woods opposite we
could hear the nightingales. Later on, the owner of the Château sold some
of the bigger trees, and we found on our return to it in the following year
that the beauty of the place had been destroyed, and the hillside looked like
the scene of a Canadian lumber camp. However, the rose-trees in the
garden with their breath of sweetest odour were a continual joy and delight
to the soul.
159
y time for leave was due again, and as we were allowed to spend it in
M France without interfering with the number of those who desired to
see their friends in England, I determined to go to Chamounix. I thought
that the sight of a great natural wonder like Mont Blanc would have an
uplifting effect upon the mind, at a time when everything human seemed to
be going to rack and ruin. The white peaks of the Alps in their changeless
purity against the blue of the infinite sky seemed to me a vision which the
soul needed. So I started off one lovely morning on my way to Paris. I went
by side-car to Amiens, where I took the train. It was a delightful expedition,
and I left with a good conscience, because our men were not expected to
attack, and were in a quiet sector of the line. The driver of the car, with the
prospect of a good meal at Amiens and a good tip, was in the best of
humours. The air was sweet and fresh and the grass wore its brightest
green. The sunshine beat down from a cloudless sky, and when we paused
for repairs, as we had to do from time to time, birds’ songs furnished us
with a most enjoyable concert. An expedition of this kind was made doubly
charming by having in it a touch of adventure. When we came to a village,
at once the map had to be studied and the turns in the road noted. A
conversation with some of the villagers as we journeyed, always broke the
sense of loneliness, and gave us an insight into the feelings of the people.
However, on this particular occasion, I was not able to complete the
journey to Amiens in the side-car. Either the car broke down, or the driver
160 Paris Leave
preferred to go on by himself, for the thing came to a dead stop just as a car
from the Corps was about to pass us. The occupants kindly invited me to
go on to Amiens with them. It was a swifter way of continuing the journey
and much more comfortable, so I said good-bye to my original driver and
started off with my new friends.
Amiens was a bustling place then and very unlike the Amiens I saw a
little over a year later. I started by train at six-thirty p.m., and at eight-thirty,
after a pleasant journey, arrived at Paris, where I went to the Hotel
Westminster. On the next evening, I started off with some friends for
Evians-les-Bains. The train was very full, and there were no berths in the
wagon-lit, so we had to stay up all night in a crowded first-class carriage.
There was an old French Curé at one end of the compartment, who, quite
early in the evening, drew out a silk handkerchief and covered his head and
face therewith, leading us to suppose that he had sunk into oblivion. We
therefore carried on a very pleasant and vivacious conversation, as the night
was warm and we were not inclined to sleep. Suddenly the old Curé pulled
off the handkerchief and said in a gruff voice, “It is the time for sleeps and
not for talks.” and, having uttered this stinging rebuke, re-covered his head
and left us in penitent silence. We arrived at Evians-les-Bains in good time,
and went to a very charming hotel with a lovely view of the Lake of Geneva
in front. Unfortunately, I had hurt my foot some time before and it looked
as if it had got infected. Not wishing to be laid up so far from medical
assistance, I decided to return the same evening, which I did, and once more
found myself at the Hotel Westminster. I now determined to spend my
leave in Paris. There were many of our men in the city at that time. They
were all in a very impecunious condition, for there was some difficulty in
getting their pay and, in Paris, money did not last long. I did my best to try
and help them, and later our system of payment was improved. It was
perhaps just as well for some of them that their money was short.
Poor old Paris looked very shabby to one who remembered her in
former days with her clean streets and many-fountained parks. She wore the
air of shabby gentility. The streets were not clean; the people were not
well-dressed, the fountains no longer played. France had been hard hit by
the war, and the ruin and desolation of her eastern borders were reflected
in the metropolis. I spent most of my time in Paris trying to keep men
straight, with more or less success. I can imagine nothing worse for a lonely
young fellow, who had taken his leave after weary months in the front line,
than to find himself in the midst of the heartless gaiety of the French
capital. On all sides the minions of vice, diseased in mind and body, lay in
waiting for their prey. To one who loved Canada and longed for the
uplifting of the pure life of Canadian homes, it was a spectacle which filled
Paris Leave 161
the heart with anxiety. Before I left Paris, I wrote a letter to the Continental
Daily Mail advocating the taking over of some hotels which could be
turned into hostels or clubs for soldiers while on leave. This, I am happy to
say was afterwards done.
I met many of our men at the soldiers’ tea-rooms called “A corner of
Blighty” in the Place Vendome, and I organized several dinner and theatre
parties which went off very pleasantly. When the men had companionship,
they did not feel the lure of vice which came to them in moments of
loneliness. I met some interesting people in Paris, and at a Sunday luncheon
in the charming house of the Duchess de la M–– I met Madame ––, the
writer of a series of novels of rather lurid reputation. The authoress was a
large person with rich orange-coloured hair, powdered cheeks, and
darkened eyelashes. She wore a large black hat, enormous solitaire pearl
ear-rings, and, as a symbol of her personal purity, was arrayed in white. She
lamented the fact that women writers were not allowed to visit the front.
When I told her that Mrs. Humphrey Ward had been there, she said, “Oh
yes, they allowed her to go because they said she could write good English,
but she cannot get the ear of the American people in the way I can.”
There were two or three French officers present, one of whom was an
attaché at the Embassy in Madrid. I was much impressed by their quiet
dignified bearing, so typical of the chivalrous heroism of France, and so
unlike anything which we could look for in the officers of the German
Army. I could not help observing that the French were much depressed and
filled with anxiety as to the issue of the war. A French lady said to me
“How can we go on much longer; our man-power is nearly exhausted?” It
is a supreme delight to me to think that that wonderful nation, which
suffered and bled so deeply and bore its wrongs so nobly, has now been
avenged on the ruthless enemy, and that the tricolour once more floats over
Alsace and Lorraine. Profoundly patriotic though we of the British Empire
are, there is something in the patriotism of the French which goes down
into the deepest roots of the human soul. I remember once in the private
burying place of a noble family who owned a chateau not far from our front
line, seeing a little child’s grave. The child had died in Canada at the age
of two years, and its body had been brought back to its ancestral resting
place. On the tombstone, under the inscription were the words:–
“Petit ange
Priez pour
la France.”
I was very much struck by the prayer. That the sorrow for a child’s
162 Paris Leave
death should be coupled with the love of country seemed most strange and
pathetic. I venture to say that it would be impossible to find a parallel
instance of such a blending of emotions in any English churchyard. The
present owner of the Château, which was at least two or three hundred
years old, was away fighting for his country, and long grass and weeds
filled the uncared for corner by the side of the old church. In past history,
we have fought with the French again and again, but we always felt that we
were fighting with gentlemen, and were sure that every courteous deed
done by us would meet with an equally courteous response. One of the
saddest things in the war was that, while we often admired the military
efficiency of the Germans, we had absolutely no respect for their officers
or men, nor could we regard them as anything but well-trained brutes. The
ties which bind us to France now are very intimate and personal, and it is
a matter of thankfulness to all who love human idealism and true culture,
that the reproach of the defeat of 1870 has been washed away in blood, and
that France will emerge from her fiery trial a purer and a loftier nation.
I was not sorry when my Paris leave was over and I returned to my
Headquarters at Château d’Acq. It was always delightful to get back to my
war home and settle down again in the midst of those on whose shoulders
the fate of civilization rested. I arrived back on June 29th, just in time to
prepare for the special services which were to be held throughout the Corps
on Sunday, July 1st, it being the jubilee of the Dominion. I made
arrangements with the band of the Royal Canadian Regiment, as our
Divisional band was away, to march over from Villers au Bois and play for
us at the service. We had special hymns and prayers neatly printed on
cards, which the men were to retain as souvenirs. The parade was held just
outside St. George’s Church, our new Divisional Commander, General
Macdonell, and his staff attending. The occasion was particularly
interesting to me, because I was the only man in the whole Canadian Corps
at the front who could remember the first Dominion Day. I could remember
as a child being taken by my father on the 1st of July, 1867, to hear the guns
firing a salute on the grounds of McGill College, Montreal. Canada had
travelled a long distance on the path of nationhood since that far-off time,
and now, after fifty years, I had the satisfaction of being with the great
Canadian Army Corps on European soil, engaged in the biggest war of
history. Such an experience is not often the privilege of a human life, and
the splendid body of men before me gave promise of Canada’s progress and
national glory in the future. Everyone felt the peculiar significance of the
celebration.
Owing to the fact that my foot was still troubling me, I was sent down
to the rest-camp at Fresnicourt, where I met many of the officers and men
Paris Leave 163
in that delightful old Château. The country round about was very pretty,
and the views from the hills were charming. Every night I used to have
either a service, or a talk with the men, on the grass beside a little stream.
They were all enjoying the rest and refreshment that came from being able
to live in pleasant surroundings and away from shells and work in the
trenches. On July 18th, I went by side-car to St. Omer where the Senior
Chaplains of the Army were summoned to a conference. We were billeted
in the large building used as the Chaplains’ Rest Home, and there enjoyed
the great privilege, not only of meeting one another, but of listening to
some splendid addresses and lectures by those in charge. It was pleasant to
re-visit St. Omer. The quaint old French town, with its rambling streets and
polite inhabitants, took one away from the thoughts of war and gave one
almost a feeling of home. In the smoking-room at night, we had the
opportunity of discussing with one another the various moral and religious
problems with which the chaplain had to contend, and many were the
interesting experiences of those chaplains. On the last day of our meetings,
at the early Eucharist, we had an address from the Archbishop of York,
who had just come over to France. Later on, he gave an address at a general
meeting of the chaplains at Bethune.
While at St. Omer I paid a visit to the Second Army School in their
magnificent buildings in Wisques, where I saw the room that my son had
occupied, and met some of the people who remembered him. The place was
used as a training school for officers and was most wonderfully equipped.
The building was a modern convent, and the large unfinished chapel, with
its high vaulted roof, was used as a dining-room. It was inspiring at dinner
to see the hundreds of young officers, all so keen and cheery, sitting round
the tables, while a good band played during the meal. It was hard to realize
that they were only having a momentary respite from the war, and, in a
week or two, would be once more up in the line facing wounds and death.
The Commandant took great pride in the institution, and told me of the
splendid records of the men who had passed through his hands.
Our Divisional Headquarters now moved to a place called
Bracquemont, near Noeux les Mines. Here I had a very fine room in the
house of the manager of one of the Mines, the offices of which were on the
other side of the road. The house was well built, and had a most charming
garden at the back. It was large and commodious, and I always feared that
my billet would attract the covetous desires of some high staff officer and
that I should be thrown out to make way for him. My room was on the
ground floor with two large windows opening on the street, enabling me to
get the Daily Mail from the newsboy in the morning. The ceiling was high
and the furniture most sumptuous. A large mirror stood upon the marble
164 Paris Leave
mantel-piece. I had linen sheets on the bed and an electric light at my side.
It did not seem at all like war, but the end of the mahogany bed and some
of the chairs, also one corner of the ceiling, had been perforated by bits of
shrapnel. So in the midst of luxury, there was the constant reminder that the
war was still going on–a death’s head at the feast.
165
racquemont was a very charming home. There were many men about
B us, the artillery horse lines were there as well as two battalions in rest,
and various other units. Behind the British C.C.S. there was a large hall
with a stage at one end. Here our concert party gave a performance every
night. Between us and the front line, were the villages of Maroc, Le Brebis,
Mazingarbe, and Bully-Grenay, which were our billeting area while we
occupied the trenches in advance of Loos. I was thus in easy reach of all the
units in the Division and could do a great deal of parish visiting.
In the country behind us, there were many Chinese Labour Companies
and one of Zulus. When not at work, they were encamped in large
compounds surrounded by barbed wire. Our band used to play occasionally
for the entertainment of the Chinese, who very much enjoyed both the
music and the compliment that was paid to them by its being provided. On
one occasion, I went with General Thacker to visit one of the Chinese
Labour Companies. The officer in charge wished us to see some of their
sports, and so we sat on chairs at the top of the field and the Chinamen
came up and gave us an exhibition of their skill in something that looked
like fencing. They used sticks for foils. We could not quite see who won in
the encounter, or what constituted the finishing stroke, but, as soon as each
pair of performers retired they turned and bowed solemnly to the General
and made way for two other combatants. They were great powerful men,
very different from the type of Chinese one sees in this country. One of the
166 We Take Hill 70
performers we were told by the O.C., could carry a weight of five hundred
pounds on his shoulders. After the gymnastic performance, we had a
concert, and a man sang, or rather made a hideous nasal sound, to the
accompaniment of something that looked like a three stringed fiddle. The
song, which greatly delighted the Chinese listeners, consisted of an
interminable number of verses; in fact we never heard the end of it, for the
O.C. stopped it and told the musicians that the officers had to leave. He told
us that the men were well behaved, and that only once had he had occasion
to hold a court-martial.
The Zulus were encamped near Ranchicourt. They too were a stalwart
lot of men, but felt the cold of the winter very much. I was riding past them
in the road one day and spoke to the British sergeant in charge of them. He
pointed out one young man who, he said, was the son of a chief, and, in his
own country, was entitled to a body-guard of fifteen men. In recognition,
therefore, of his aristocratic birth, he was allowed to wear three stripes.
While we were talking, the boy looked round and saw that we were
speaking about him. The sergeant called out something to him in Zulu
language, and the boy smiled and nodded to me. I asked the sergeant what
he had said to him. He replied: “I told him that you thought you had met
him before, and it pleased him.” This accounted for the boy’s smiling at me
and the nod of recognition. I suppose he thought that on some occasion in
my rambles through Africa we had met in the jungle. At any rate, I admired
the sergeant’s tact and savoir faire. There was a great mixture of races
among the allied forces in France, and I always felt sorry for the poor
heathen that they should be dragged into the war of the Christian nations.
Our front trenches were not comfortable places. To reach them one had
to pass through Maroc and along a road on the outskirts of Loos. Beside the
road, in the cellars of a broken building, called Fort Glatz, was a dressing
station. The neighbourhood was frequently shelled, for the road from
Maroc to Loos was under observation from the two mysterious iron towers
in Wingles. Beyond Fort Glatz, the engineers had a store of trench
materials. The place was called “Crucifix Dump,” on account of the large
crucifix which stood there on a mound of earth. The figure on the crucifix
was made of metal and it had been struck by shrapnel. It looked so pathetic
standing there amid the ruin and desolation around, mutely saying to those
who had ears to hear, “Is it nothing to you, all ye who pass by; behold and
see if there was ever sorrow like unto my sorrow?” From a shrapnel hole
near the heart of the figure, birds could be seen flying in and out, getting
food for their young. At the foot, there was the grave of a German officer
who had been killed when the Germans occupied Loos.
I often used to go to Bully-Grenay to visit some of the siege batteries.
We Take Hill 70 167
They had comfortable billets but the Germans soon found out their location
and sent over some very big shells. One large shell had a curious
experience. It fell in the road to the south of Bully-Grenay, burrowing
under the ground without exploding. Then it rose and went through the side
of a brick house, and finally reposed on the floor of an upper room. We all
went to see it lying there, like some gigantic sea monster dead and stranded
on the shore. The potential force of the huge shell was enormous, but it lay
there perfectly harmless after its strange pilgrimage.
I was passing one of the siege batteries one day, when I saw a number
of men working round a damaged gun-pit. I went over to it and found that
a shell had landed there that morning, just as they were changing shifts on
the guns. It had killed and buried a number of the men, at the same time
setting fire to our ammunition. The bodies of those who were buried were
burnt almost to ashes by the terrific heat, and only charred bits of them
were recovered.
South of Loos there was the famous Double Crassier. It was a large slag
heap on which once ran a line of railway. The top, of course, was in sight
of the Germans, but down in the hollow on our side of it we had a great
number of battery positions. That little corner where our guns were
concentrated was an easy target for the German artillery, and many were
the high explosives and gas-shells which they dropped. In the town of
Maroc itself there was a large fosse or mine-head. The buildings round it
were capacious, and well made. They were of course now much damaged,
but the cellars were extraordinarily commodious and extensive. They were
lined with white tiles, and the largest one was fitted up as a place of rest
and amusement with a canteen where the men could get coffee, cakes and
cigarettes. I stationed one of our chaplains there to look after the work and
hold services in one of the cellars which was fitted up as a chapel. In the
large room there were benches, and a stage afforded a good floor for
boxing. I determined to start boxing there as a sport for the artillerymen,
who had few opportunities of enjoying the entertainments which were
given behind the line. I had a great friend in one of the Highland battalions,
who had been wounded three times in the war, and was heavy-weight
champion of the 1st Division. I got his O.C. to attach him to me, and I
placed him in the cellar at Maroc where he began to instruct the men in the
noble art of self defence. People used to wonder why I had a prize-fighter
attached to me, and I told them that if the Junior Chaplains were
insubordinate, I wanted to be able to call in some one in an emergency to
administer discipline. I always said, with perfect truth, that since my
prize-fighter was attached to me I had had no trouble with any of the
chaplains. It is wonderful what things one can do in the Army which are not
168 We Take Hill 70
probably not in their normal condition. He went back to his battery and told
his friends there that I had actually buttonholed him in Maroc and insisted
upon his listening to a miserable poem of mine while shells were falling in
the place.
In order to avoid the danger of passing through the town, we generally
used a path across the fields. I was returning from the trenches with some
men one night along this path, when we saw from Maroc flashes of a light
which was apparently being used as a signal. At once we were seized with
an attack of spy-fever, and I said to the men, “There is someone signalling
to the Germans.” The night was so dark that signalling could have been
seen at a considerable distance. Immediately we started off towards the
light, which went out when we approached, but we discovered an officer
in a mackintosh, and I at once asked him who he was. Tired as our men
were, for they were coming out after being several days in the trenches,
they followed me and were so keen on the adventure that one of them had
drawn his revolver. The officer became very rude and he used some
blasphemous words towards me in the dark, which naturally provoked a
stern rebuke. I told him I was a Lieut.-Colonel, and that I should report him
to his commanding officer. Then we asked him to give proof of his identity.
I could see by his manner that he was becoming exceedingly
uncomfortable, so I insisted upon his leading us to his headquarters. He did,
and we stumbled on over telephone wires and piles of bricks till he brought
us into the yard of a broken down house, in the cellars of which we found
the officers of his battery. The O.C. was very polite and, when I pointed out
to him the danger of flashing a light in the neighbourhood of the track
which was used by our infantry battalions at night when going to or coming
from the trenches, he said his unit would be more careful in the future.
After a little conversation we left. A day or two afterwards I met one of the
officers of the battery, and we had a good laugh over the incident, but he
told me that it was even more amusing than I had thought, for the young
officer had a dugout in the field and was making his way thither with
nothing on but his pyjamas and his mackintosh. When we asked him for
some proofs of his identity, he was terrified lest we should search him and
find him in this peculiarly unmilitary costume, which might have made us
still more suspicious.
Ever since our moving to Bracquemont, we had been preparing to
complete the work of our advance towards Lens by an attack on Hill 70, the
high ground to the north-west of that city. Compared with the taking of
Vimy Ridge, the exploit was of course a minor one, but, for many reasons,
it was felt to be an exceedingly dangerous task and one which would cost
us dearly. The Germans had had time to concentrate their forces in front of
170 We Take Hill 70
us, and they knew the value of the commanding position which they held.
Everyone felt anxious as to the result of the enterprise, and we had learnt
from recent experiences on the Ridge and at Fresnoy how powerful the
enemy was. Although, of course, I did not let the men see it, I was always
worried when we had an attack in view. When I held services for them on
parade, or addressed them at their entertainments, or met them by the
roadside, I used to look into their eyes and wonder if those eyes would soon
be viewing the eternal mysteries “in the land that is very far off.” I tried to
make it a point never to pass anyone without a handshake or a word of
cheer and encouragement. How their faces used to brighten up at some
trifling kindness or some funny story!
I was fond of visiting the men who acted as the road control on the east
side of Maroc. One of their number was of course on guard day and night,
so I was always sure of meeting a friend whenever I passed. I never went
down to their cellar without being offered a cup of tea and other dainties.
They used to sleep on shelves, and often invited me to rest my weary limbs
there. I would thank them for their kindness, but thought it prudent, for
reasons of personal cleanliness, not to accept it. It always gave me great
pleasure to come upon friends in out of the way places. I remember meeting
an officer late one night near the front at Loos. It was very dark, and, as
soon as he recognized me, he exclaimed, “Here’s old Canon Scott, I’ll be
d–d!” “My friend,” I said solemnly, “I hope you will not allow that sad
truth to get abroad. The Canadian Government is paying me a large salary
to try and keep you from that awful fate, and if they hear that your meeting
me has had such a result, I shall lose my job.” He apologized for the
expression, and said it was only meant as an exclamation of surprise.
By the beginning of August, everything was ready for the attack, and
on the 14th, carrying my rations with me, I made my way to the 7th Siege
Battery; for I had arranged to go to their observation post and watch the
barrage from there. I started off in the evening, with one of the gunners. We
skirted Maroc and reached the O.P., which was called St. Pat’s. It was a
long walk over the open and through the trenches before we got into the
place. From it we looked down the slope towards our front line, and beyond
this we saw the rise in the ground called Hill 70, held by the Germans. The
barrage was to begin at four twenty-five in the morning; so the gunner and
I went down into a dugout and tried to get a little rest. Before we got to
sleep, however, we became aware of the smell of gas, and, hearing the
tramping of feet in the trench at the top of the stairs, I went up and found
the men of the 14th Battalion with their helmets on going forward in
preparation for the advance. They recognized me because I did not put on
my mask, and as they passed they shook hands with me and I wished them
We Take Hill 70 171
“good luck in the name of the Lord.” Such cheery souls they were, going
forth in their stifling helmets to the unknown dangers which awaited them.
I found that sleep was impossible, so I went up to the O.P. and waited
for the barrage. It was a lovely night; the stars were shining beautifully, and
the constellation of Orion hung on the horizon in the eastern sky, with the
pale moon above. A great silence, stirred only by the morning breeze,
brooded over the wide expanse of darkness. Then, at four-twenty-five, the
guns burst forth in all their fury, and all along the German line I saw not
only exploding shells, but the bursting oil drums with their pillars of liquid
fire, whose smoke rose high in the air with a peculiar turn at the top which
looked like the neck of a huge giraffe. At once the Germans sent up rockets
of various colours, signalling for aid from their guns, and the artillery duel
of the two great armies waxed loud and furious. I stood on the hill with
some of our men, and watched the magnificent scene. Nothing but the
thought of what it meant to human beings took away from our enjoyment
of the mighty spectacle. When day dawned, we could see, silhouetted
against the morning sky, men walking over the hilltop, and now and then
jumping down into the captured trenches. Once again our Division had got
its objective. At various points difficulties had been encountered, and in a
place called the “Chalk Pit,” which afterwards became our front line, the
Germans had made a determined stand. They had a wonderful dugout there,
like a rabbit-warren, with many passages and entrances, from which they
were bombed out with great difficulty. One of our western battalions
suffered heavily in taking the stronghold.
I went on to Fort Glatz and to some of the other advanced aid-posts. We
had many casualties, but we felt that the worst was not yet over, for we
knew that, although we had taken the hill, the Germans would make a
desperate fight to get it back again. All day long our artillery pounded away
and our infantry consolidated the line. Our Pioneer Battalion did splendid
work in digging trenches under heavy fire, in order to connect our advanced
positions. When the sun set and the night once more cast its shade over the
earth, there was no cessation in the sound of battle.
The next morning I visited the wounded in the C.C.S., and in the
afternoon went by car once more to the 7th Siege Battery and thence made
my way through Maroc to the front, as I had heard from the General that
the artillery were having a hard time. Their guns had been firing incessantly
since the barrage started. I met many men on the journey who gave me
accounts of their experiences during the battle, and, by the time I reached
the Y.M.C.A. coffee-stall in a ruined building on the Maroc-Loos road it
was quite late. Here in a cellar I found some men making coffee for the
walking wounded, who were coming back very tired and glad of a shelter
172 We Take Hill 70
and a hot drink. I went on down the road to the well concealed trenches
which led to the 1st and 2nd Artillery Brigade Headquarters. In the deep
dugout, I found the O.C.s of the two brigades and their staffs hard at work.
It was an anxious time, because ammunition was short, and every available
man was employed in carrying it up to the guns. The Senior Colonel asked
me if I would go round to some of the gun pits and talk to the men. They
were tired out, he said, with the constant firing, and there was still no
prospect of a rest. I told him that if he would give me a runner to act as
guide, I would visit all the gun-pits of the two Brigades. Accordingly a
runner was sent for, and he and I started off at midnight. It was very dark,
and when we emerged from the trench and turned to the right on the
Lens-Bethune road we met parties of wounded men coming back, and the
batteries in the fields beside us were firing over our heads. We visited first
the cellar of a building by the way, where there was an aid post. Here were
many men being attended to by the doctors. They were all worn out, and
did not look forward with much pleasure to their journey back to Maroc
along the dark and dangerous road.
From the dressing station, my guide and I went into a trench and along
this to the gun positions. As we came to each, we visited the officers and
men. We got a glad welcome from the faithful, true-hearted fellows who
were working with might and main to save the lives of their comrades in the
front line. Some of the guns were fearfully heated and were hard to handle.
Yet the S.O.S. signals from the front trenches would go up every now and
then, telling our gunners that the Germans were making another
counter-attack, and asking for artillery support to save the situation. We
made our way through the trench towards the batteries at the foot of the
Loos Crassier. In doing so, we had to pass under the road. I was going on
ahead, and when I stooped down to pass under the bridge, to my surprise
I could dimly descry in the darkness a row of silent men sitting on each side
of the passage facing one another. I said, “Good-night, boys,” but there was
no answer. The figures in the darkness remained motionless and still. I
could not quite make out what the matter was, for our men always
responded to my greeting. Suddenly, an enemy flare-light went up in the
distance, and I saw, to my horror, that the two rows of men sitting so
silently were Germans. I was wondering if I had run my neck into a noose,
when a voice from the other end of the passage called out, “They are
prisoners, Sir. I am taking them back with me and giving them a few
minutes rest.” I must say that I was greatly relieved. I went on to the
gun-pits just in front of the crassier, and here the men were working hard.
It was splendid to see their absolute disregard of everything but their duty.
I felt myself to be such a slacker beside them, but I told them how
We Take Hill 70 173
gloriously they were carrying on, and how their work was appreciated by
the infantry. The night began to wear away, and when I reached the
gun-pits that were further back it was broad daylight. In fact, I visited the
last one at six a.m. Some of the batteries had by this time ceased firing, and
the men had fallen asleep in all sorts of curious positions, ready to be
roused in an instant. Altogether, my guide and I visited forty-eight gun-pits
that night, and it was about seven o’clock when we returned to Brigade
Headquarters.
The next night the Germans sent over a rain of gas-shells on the
batteries, and the men at the guns found it impossible to see the sights
through the eye-pieces of their gas-helmets, and so chose to face the poison
unprotected rather than run the risk of injuring our infantry by bad firing.
There were of course heavy casualties among the gunners as a result of this.
Some died and many were badly gassed, but the line was held.
As I was returning after spending the night at the gun-pits, I felt terribly
tired. The morning sun rose higher and higher, and beat down with summer
heat on my steel helmet as I made my way along the path which skirted the
town of Maroc. I sat down by the side of a trench to have some breakfast,
and opened a tin of milk and my tin of bully beef and was just preparing to
have a meal, when I must have fallen asleep instantaneously. How long I
slumbered I do not know, but when I woke up I found, standing in front of
me, three amused and puzzled Australian tunnellers. When I fell asleep, I
must have upset my breakfast, which was lying at my feet, and the
tunnellers were evidently enjoying what they considered to be the discovery
of a padré a little the worse for wear. They were somewhat surprised, not
to say disappointed, when I woke up, and they said, “You seem to be very
tired, Sir.” I told them that I had had very little sleep for several nights, and
had been walking all night long, winding up my story (for the honour of the
cloth) with the statement that I was a teetotaller. Whether they believed it
or not I do not know, but we had a long talk together and they told me of
the work they were doing in digging a tunnel from Loos to the front line.
The next day I went to the advanced dressing station and saw the men
that were gassed being brought in. So strongly were their clothes saturated
with the poison that, as they were being cut off, in order that the bodies of
the men might be washed with the liquid used for counteracting the burning
effects of the gas, our eyes and throats smarted from the fumes. There was
nothing more horrible than to see men dying from gas. Nothing could be
done to relieve their suffering. The body, as well as the throat and lungs,
was burned and blistered by the poison.
The German counter-attack had now spent itself, and Hill 70 was ours.
One more splendid deed had been achieved by the Canadian Corps, and we
174 We Take Hill 70
now held in our hands the commanding position which threatened the town
of Lens.
175
ill 70 being now in our grip the Division came out of the line on
H August 21st, and moved back to our old billets in Bruay.
Every night, as usual, our concert party gave a performance in the
theatre. We were very proud of them. The men’s costumes were well made
and very tasteful. “Babs,” our leading lady, was most charming and
engaging, in spite of the fact that her hands looked decidedly masculine.
The townspeople enjoyed the entertainments as much as we did, and the
battalions were given their own special nights. Occasionally, some of the
jokes appeared to me a trifle too broad. At such times I would pay a visit
to the Green-room, as Senior Chaplain, and mildly suggest their
withdrawal. I must say that the men took my interference in good part and
kept their exuberance of spirits well in check. Our Divisional band was up
to high-water mark, and their rendering of the hymns and chants on
Sundays made our services in the theatre extraordinarily hearty.
One afternoon I motored over to Quatre Vents to take a funeral service
in the cemetery there. Instead of returning, I went down to Cambligneul to
see the men of the 7th Battalion. They were enjoying a rest in the quaint old
town. In the evening, I went down to the Y.M.C.A. hut which was in charge
of the British. Here I found our men crowded into the building, not
knowing what to do with themselves. The officer in charge of the hut was
a quiet man, who was doing his best in superintending the work at the
counter. It struck me, however, that he felt a little embarrassed by the
176 Every Day Life
situation, and did not know how to provide amusement for the wild
Canadians. I asked him if he would object to our having a stag-dance. He
said, “Certainly not, you may do anything you like.” At once we got several
dozen candles and illuminated the place. Then we sent out for a pianist and
some violinists, and got up a scratch orchestra. We then cleared away the
tables and benches and turned the place into a dance-hall. The orchestra
struck up a lively two-step, and great burly chaps chose their equally burly
partners, and started off in the dance with such gusto that the place was
filled with the sounds of dissipation. This attracted more men from outside,
and finally we had the liveliest scene imaginable. I actually found myself
joining in the mazes of the waltz, and amid roars of laughter the dancing
went on fast and furious. So delighted was the Y.M.C.A. officer, that he
mounted the platform at the end of a dance, and in spite of my protest,
called for three cheers for the man who had suggested the entertainment. At
the close of the evening, we had cups of hot coffee and biscuits, and parted
in the best of humours. I was then confronted by a problem that had not
presented itself to me before, and that was, how I was to get back to my
home in Bruay, which was about ten miles off. Once more my favourite
text came to my mind, “The Lord will provide.” So I bid good-bye to my
friends in the hut and went off, trusting that a car or lorry would pick me
up on the road. This time I found that the Lord did not provide, so I started
at about half-past ten on my homeward journey on foot. As I passed
through the sleeping village of Estrée-Cauchie, I came upon some men of
another Division who had been imbibing very freely in an estaminet, and
who were about to wind up a heated argument with a free fight. It was very
dark, and it was hard for me to convince them that I was a chaplain with the
rank of Lieut.-Colonel, until I turned my flashlight upon my white collar.
Happily, my efforts as peacemaker were not in vain. I poured oil on the
troubled waters till I saw them subside, and the men went off to their
billets. One young fellow, however, was experiencing that interest in
spiritual problems, which was sometimes aroused in the most unexpected
quarters by free libations of spirituous liquors. He caught hold of my arm
and implored me to enlighten him on the theological differences which
separated Anglicans and Presbyterians. I forget which he was himself, but
at the time the problem was a matter of extraordinary interest to him. While
I always considered it my duty to impart enlightenment to darkened souls
whenever I could, the recollection that I had about seven miles to walk to
my home that night rather tempered my missionary zeal, and by a promise
to discuss the whole matter on our next meeting I managed to tear myself
away and proceed on my journey.
It was a long tramp down the silent road in the darkness. The houses in
Every Day Life 177
the little villages through which I passed were tightly shut. Not a light could
be seen, and Providence supplied no car or lorry for my conveyance. On a
hill in the distance, I saw the revolving light which acted as a signal to the
aeroplanes. It would shine out for a few seconds and then die away. The air
was fresh and cool, and I had time to meditate on the curious events of the
intense life which I lived. It was still day in Canada, and the sun was
shining over our cities, the great lakes, the prairies, and the jagged peaks in
the mountain province on the Pacific coast. When was this life going to
end? Were we really making any progress? Overhead, my beloved friends
the stars, kept up their silent twinkling, which gave them an appearance of
life. In the valley lay the old medieval Château of Ohlain. I thought of the
historical figures from the pages of French history who had walked along
that road centuries before, filled with the anxieties and problems of their
own age. Now and then, some bird of the night would break the silence
with its cry or twitter, and still I plodded on. At last, long after midnight,
I reached the outskirts of Bruay, and entering the High Street, made my way
to my billet, where Alberta was waiting to give me a warm welcome.
It was the privilege of the British Army to have as its commanders,
good and devout men. One always felt that, in any appeal, the cause of
religion would be upheld. General Horne, who commanded the First Army,
of which we formed a part, was a man of sincere religious life, and never
failed to show his appreciation of the chaplains and their work. One day he
invited all the Chaplains of the First Army to have tea with him at his
headquarters in the beautiful Château of Ranchicourt. It was a lovely
afternoon, and we motored over to the meeting in busses. Tables were set
for tea and refreshments on the lawn, and the Count and his charming
daughter were there, giving a touch of home life to the gathering. All the
chaplains who could be off duty were present. After tea, while we sat on
the grass, the General gave us a very helpful talk on religious work among
the men from a soldier’s point of view. The old Château, with its beautiful
gardens in front of the huge elms gave a fine setting to the scene.
On August 31st I was driven over to a field at the back of Villers-
Chatel, where the 2nd Brigade was to hold a memorial service for those who
had been killed at the taking of Hill 70. I had been asked to give the
address. The place chosen was a wide and green field which sloped
gradually towards the line of rich forest trees. On the highest part of the
ground facing the woods, a small platform had been erected and was
decorated with flags. On this the chaplains stood, the Corps Commander
and the Brigadier and staff being at one side. Before us, forming three sides
of a square, were the four battalions of the Brigade. The scene when viewed
from the platform was magnificent. The sky was blue, the sun was shining,
178 Every Day Life
and the glorious trees guarded the green mysteries of the forest behind. The
troops were in splendid form, and the bright red patches on their arms gave
a touch of colour which set off the khaki uniforms. Every one of the men
had been through the battle and was a hero. The service went well, and the
hymns, to the accompaniment of the band, were sung heartily. At the close,
the Corps Commander and staff went round to each battalion, and those
who had won honours came forward to receive them. As the officers and
men stood in turn before the General, the A.D.C. read out a short account
of what each had done to win the decoration. It was deeply moving to hear
the acts of gallantry that had been performed. Fixed and motionless each
man would stand, while we were told how his courage had saved his
company or platoon at some critical moment. I remember particularly
hearing how one sergeant who got the D.C.M., had carried his Lewis gun,
after all the other members of the crew had been wounded or killed, and,
placing it at a point of vantage, had, by his steady fire, covered the advance
of a company going forward to attack. Little do people at home know by
what supreme self-sacrifice and dauntless courage those strips of
bright-coloured ribbon on the breasts of soldiers have been won. After the
decorations had been presented, the men fell back to their battalions. The
band struck up the strains of “D’ye ken John Peel?,” and the whole Brigade
marched past the General, the masses of men moving with machine-like
precision. Even the rain which had begun to fall did not mar the fine effect.
Our stay at Bruay was not to be of long duration. In the early hours of
September 5th a bomb dropped in the garden behind the administration
building where our Headquarters were, waking us from sleep with a sudden
start. It did no harm, but on the next day we were informed that we were all
to move back to our old quarters in Barlin. I always said that I regarded a
bomb dropped on Headquarters as a portent sent from heaven, telling us we
were going to move. Accordingly on September 6th we all made our way to
Barlin, where I was given a billet in an upper room in an estaminet. The
propriety of housing a Senior Chaplain in an estaminet might be
questioned, but this particular one was called the estaminet of St. Joseph.
An estaminet with such a title, and carried on under such high patronage,
was one in which I could make myself at home. So on the door was hung
my sign, “Canon Scott, Senior Chaplain,” which provoked many smiles and
much comment from the men of the battalions as they passed by. I was
looking out of my window in the upper storey one day when the 2nd
Battalion was marching past, and, to the breach of all good discipline, I
called out to the men and asked them if they did not envy me my billet. A
roar of laughter went up, and they asked me how I got there and if I could
take them in as well. I told them that it was the reward of virtue, and only
Every Day Life 179
dangerous duty. One of our burial officers, a fine young fellow, told me
how much he disliked the work. He said, “There is no glory in it, and
people think that we have an easy time, but two of my predecessors have
been killed and I expect to get knocked out myself some day.” A year later
he was killed near Cambrai, after he had faithfully done his duty in caring
for the bodies of the slain.
Our front trenches were now to the right of Hill 70, in advance of
Liévin, and it seemed as if we were going to be stationed in the
neighbourhood for some time, for the rumour was that the Canadians had
to complete their work at Vimy by the capture of Lens. Barlin, therefore,
and the area around it was a great centre of Canadian life and activity. We
had our large Canadian tent-hospitals, our brigade schools, and various
Y.M.C.A. places of entertainment, besides our officers’ clubs.
In an open field near my billet were stationed the horse lines of our
Divisional Train, and it used to give me great pleasure to pass the long rows
of wagons which by the constant labour of the men were kept in prime
condition. The paint was always fresh, and all the chains were polished as
if they were merely for show. It would be hard for people at home to realize
that the wagons which had been used for years under such rough conditions
always looked as if they had just come out of the shop, but that was the
case. The constant attention to detail in the army, the smartness of the men,
and the good turn-out of the horses and limbers, have a great moral effect
upon every department of the service. The men were always grumbling
about polishing buttons and chains, but I told them that the impression of
efficiency it gave one made it quite worth while. A Division that could turn
out such a fine looking Train as we had could always be depended upon to
do its duty.
181
here is nothing which brings home to the heart with such force the iron
T discipline of war as the execution of men who desert from the front
line. It was my painful duty on one occasion to have to witness the carrying
out of the death sentence. One evening I was informed by the A.P.M. that
a man in one of our brigades was to be shot the next morning, and I was
asked to go and see him and prepare him for death. The sentence had
already been read to him at six o’clock, and the brigade chaplain was
present, but the A.P.M., wished me to take the case in hand. We motored
over to the village where the prisoner was and stopped at a brick building
which was entered through a courtyard. There were men on guard in the
outer room and also in a second room from which a door led into a large
brick chamber used as the condemned cell. Here I found the man who was
to pay the penalty of his cowardice. He had a table before him and on it a
glass of brandy and water and writing materials. He was sitting back in his
chair and his face wore a dazed expression. The guards kindly left us alone.
He rose and shook hands with me, and we began to talk about his sentence.
He was evidently steeling himself and trying to fortify his mind by the
sense of great injustice done to him. I allowed him to talk freely and say
just what he pleased. Gradually, I succeeded in getting at the heart of the
true man which I knew was hidden under the hard exterior, and the poor
fellow began to tell me about his life. From the age of eleven, when he
became an orphan, he had to get his own living and make his way in a
182 A Tragedy of War
world that is often cold and cruel to those who have no friends. Then by
degrees he began to talk about religion and his whole manner changed. All
the time I kept feeling that every moment the dreaded event was coming
nearer and nearer and that no time was to be lost. He had never been
baptised, but wished now to try and make up for the past and begin to
prepare in a real way to meet his God.
I had brought my bag with the communion vessels in it, and so he and
I arranged the table together, taking away the glass of brandy and water and
the books and papers, and putting in their place the white linen altar cloth.
When everything was prepared, he knelt down and I baptised him and gave
him his first communion. The man’s mind was completely changed. The
hard, steely indifference and the sense of wrong and injustice had passed
away, and he was perfectly natural. I was so much impressed by it that
while I was talking to him, I kept wondering if I could not even then, at that
late hour, do something to avert the carrying out of the sentence. Making
some excuse and saying I would be back in a little while, I left him, and the
guard went into the room accompanied by one of the officers of the man’s
company. When I got outside, I told the brigade chaplain that I was going
to walk over to Army Headquarters and ask the Army Commander to have
the death sentence commuted to imprisonment.
It was then about one a.m. and I started off in the rain down the dark
road. The Château in which the General lived was two miles off, and when
I came to it, I found it wrapped in darkness. I went to the sentry on guard,
and told him that I wished to see the General on important business.
Turning my flashlight upon my face, I showed who I was. He told me that
the General’s room was in the second storey at the head of a flight of stairs
in a tower at the end of the building. I went over there, and finding the door
unlocked, I mounted the wooden steps, my flashlight lighting up the place.
I knocked at a door on the right and a voice asked me who I was. When I
told my name, I was invited to enter, and an electric light was turned on and
I found I was in the room of the A.D.C., who was sitting up in bed. Luckily,
I had met him before and he was most sympathetic. I apologized for
disturbing him but told him my mission and asked if I might see the
General. He got up and went into the General’s room. In a few moments he
returned, and told me that the General would see me. Instead of being angry
at my extraordinary intrusion, he discussed the matter with me. Before a
death sentence could be passed on any man, his case had to come up first
in his Battalion orderly room, and, if he was found guilty there, it would be
sent to the Brigade. From the Brigade it was sent to the Division, from the
Division to Corps, from Corps to Army, and from Army to General
Headquarters. If each of these courts confirmed the sentence, and the
A Tragedy of War 183
this was mercifully refused him. A round piece of white paper was pinned
over his heart by the doctor as a guide for the men’s aim. I went over and
pronounced the Benediction. He added, “And may God have mercy upon
my soul.” The doctor and I then went into the road on the other side of the
hedge and blocked up our ears, but of course we heard the shots fired. It
was sickening. We went back to the prisoner who was leaning forward and
the doctor felt his pulse and pronounced him dead. The spirit had left the
dreary hillside and, I trust, had entered the ranks of his heroic comrades in
Paradise.
The effect of the scene was something quite unutterable. The firing
party marched off and drew up in the courtyard of the prison. I told them
how deeply all ranks felt the occasion, and that nothing but the dire
necessity of guarding the lives of the men in the front line from the panic
and rout that might result, through the failure of one individual, compelled
the taking of such measures of punishment. A young lad in the firing party
utterly broke down, but, as one rifle on such occasions is always loaded
with a blank cartridge, no man can be absolutely sure that he has had a part
in the shooting. The body was then placed in a coffin and taken in the
ambulance to the military cemetery, where I held the service. The usual
cross was erected with no mention upon it of the manner of the death. That
was now forgotten. The man had mastered himself and had died bravely.
I have seen many ghastly sights in the war, and hideous forms of death.
I have heard heart-rending tales of what men have suffered, but nothing
ever brought home to me so deeply, and with such cutting force, the
hideous nature of war and the iron hand of discipline, as did that lonely
death on the misty hillside in the early morning. Even now, as I write this
brief account of it, a dark nightmare seems to rise out of the past and almost
makes me shrink from facing once again memories that were so painful. It
is well, however, that people should know what our men had to endure.
Before them were the German shells, the machine-guns and the floods of
gas. Behind them, if their courage failed, was the court-martial, always
administered with great compassion and strict justice, but still bound by
inexorable laws of war to put into execution, when duty compelled, a grim
and hideous sentence of death.
If this book should fall into the hands of any man who, from cowardice,
shirked his duty in the war, and stayed at home, let him reflect that, but for
the frustration of justice, he ought to have been sitting that morning,
blindfolded and handcuffed, beside the prisoner on the box. He was one of
the originals and a volunteer.
186
t was a good thing, after the bitter experience which I had just passed
I through, that permission was granted me at this time to take some men on
a leave trip to Rome. My visit to Paris had convinced me that it was no
proper place for men to spend their leave in, so when my next leave was
nearly due I wrote to Division and asked permission to take a party to Italy
in order that some of our men might have the benefit of seeing the great
monuments of European history and art. Weeks passed away and I heard
nothing about the matter, until at last a telegram came through granting my
request. I had only asked permission to take twelve men with me whose
names had to be sent in beforehand. But the telegram which granted
permission was couched in such vague terms, merely referring to a certain
file-number, that I, knowing that nobody would take the trouble to turn up
the original document, said nothing about it, and by a stroke of good luck
succeeded in taking with me forty-six men, including two chaplains, two
young officers and one of the staff of the Y.M.C.A. Two of the men, alas,
became casualties in the Paris barrage on the first night, and were reported
“missing, believed dead,” but were found two days afterwards by the police
and sent back. The rest of us had a glorious time and travelled to Rome via
Marseilles, Nice–which included a visit to Monte Carlo–Genoa and Pisa.
I shall never forget the delightful trip across France by daylight, and the
moonlight night at Marseilles, where we put up at the Hotel Regina. The
men were in fine form and presented a splendid soldierlike appearance.
Visits To Rome and Passchendaele 187
Their new uniforms were set off by the bright red patch upon their sleeves,
and their buttons were kept well polished. I told them, before we started,
that I did not wish to be either a detective or a nursery-maid, but I asked
them to play the game and they did. We were going into the country of an
ally and I knew that such a large party would be under very critical
observation wherever we went. I had really no authority over the men
beyond that which they were willing that I should exercise. The individuals
of the party were not specially selected, but I felt perfect confidence that we
should have no trouble, although I was naturally very much teased by
members of “C” mess who prophesied that I should lose some men in Paris,
some in Marseilles and some in Rome, and my friends even went so far as
to declare that they doubted whether I should ever come back myself. We
were favoured with glorious weather, and travelled by daylight the whole
length of the Riviera. The utmost good humour prevailed, and the glorious
view of the blue Mediterranean on one side, with that of the romantic
mountains on the other, drove from our minds all uncomfortable memories
of the war. In fact we seemed to get into another world.
The train arrived at Pisa at about nine o’clock p.m. and was to wait
there for three hours, so we all got out and had some supper and started off
to see the famous leaning tower by moonlight. The sudden appearance of
British troops in the quaint old town caused quite a sensation, and the
people came out of the cafes to see us and a mob followed us wherever we
went. We were of course pounced upon by the vendors of souvenirs, and
a number of the men came back to the station carrying alabaster leaning
towers under their arms. I warned the party about the danger of loading
themselves with such heavy and brittle mementos, for we had still a long
journey before us. The wisdom of my warning was apparent later on, for on
leaving Rome the alabaster towers had begun to lean so much that they
could no longer stand up. A shelf full of leaning towers propped up one
against another, looking as if they had just partaken of an issue of rum, was
left in the hotel. We journeyed all night, some of the men sleeping on the
seats, some on the floor, and some in the hatracks overhead, and in the
morning amid intense excitement we arrived at the station in Rome. I had
been able to get a shave and clean up in the train, so on arrival was ready
to go and hunt for a hotel. I told the men, however, to find their way to the
Leave Club and make themselves presentable and that I would return for
them as soon as possible. After securing billets in the Hotel Bristol, I went
back for the party. Although I knew the men would want to go about the
city by themselves, I felt it would be a good thing for our esprit-de-corps,
that we should march to the hotel in a body. So, not knowing how to give
military orders myself, and remembering what real colonels always did in
188 Visits To Rome and Passchendaele
to the Italians that Canadian soldiers were able to stay at the most select
hotel in Rome, and also that the officers and men were able to mix together
in real comradeship. The Highlanders in our party of course attracted the
greatest attention, and were frequently followed by an admiring crowd as
they passed through the streets. Colonel Lamb, the military attaché at the
Embassy, was very kind to us and secured us many privileges, not the least
acceptable of which was free transportation. We split up into small parties,
and visited the sights of the Eternal City as we pleased. On the first night
after dinner, we paid a visit to the Coliseum by moonlight, which is
something to remember. Wherever we went we met with the kindest
treatment. The ladies of the Leave Club gave us an entertainment one
evening, which was attended by the military and naval attachés at the
British and American Embassies, and by some of the English residents. I
was proud of the appearance of the men. Before we left the hotel at Nice,
an English lady, the wife of a British General at the front, came up and
congratulated me upon the men, and said they were the most gentlemanly
young fellows she had ever seen. I think it was a help to them to feel that
their appearance in Rome at that critical time was something which gave
our party a kind of political significance, and the phrase, “to help on the
cause of the Allies,” became a watchword among us.
One night an Italian Colonel asked some of our men to dine with him
at his hotel and took them to the theatre afterwards. On another occasion,
five of our men were sitting in the front row of one of the theatres when an
actor gave an impersonation of the different sovereigns of Europe. When
he appeared as King George, the orchestra struck up our National Anthem,
and at once our men rose up and stood to attention. One of them told me
afterwards that he felt cold shivers going down his back as he did so,
because he was in full view of everybody. For a moment there was a pause,
then the audience, understanding what the action meant, rose en masse and
stood till the music was over and then clapped their hands and shouted
“Viva l’Inghilterra!”
Many of our men were very anxious to see the Pope, and so it was
arranged that we should have an audience. Colonel Lamb informed the 1st
Italian Division that we would march in a body through their district. We
started off in the morning, our young Highland officer being in command.
As we passed through the streets, the people greeted us very cordially.
Many of them raised their hats. The traffic, too, would stop to let us pass.
We went over the bridge of Hadrian and arrived at the entrance of the
Vatican beside St. Peter’s in good time. There we were met by an Irish
priest, who remembered me from my previous visit. I asked him if the men
should break ranks but he told me to let them come in formation. So, two
190 Visits To Rome and Passchendaele
than, “To the brave Italian dead from their Canadian comrades.” He said he
was anxious to emphasize the connection between the British and the
Italians. An Italian major made the arrangements with me for carrying out
the project. Poor man, he was so moved at the thought of the disgraceful
surrender of the 3rd Italian Army that his eyes filled with tears as he talked
about it, and he said, “What will our Allies think of Italy when her men
behave like that?” I told him it was only a small part of their army that had
failed and that the rest had behaved very gallantly. That afternoon,
preceded by two of our sergeants carrying a large wreath of laurel tied with
purple ribbon, to which we attached two cards with the inscription, one in
English and one in Italian, we marched through the crowds of onlookers,
who took off their hats as we passed, until we reached the great marble
steps which lead up to the gilded statue of the late King. Here there was a
magnificent display of flowers made up in all sorts of designs. The crowd
gave away before us, and one of the officials, who had been directed by the
Italian major, took the wreath from us and gave it a place of honour in front
of the statue. We stood in a long line on the marble steps and saluted and
then turned and left. The people clapped their hands and shouted, “Viva
l’Inghilterra!” We were pleased at the impression the simple act of courtesy
made, and felt that it was helping on the cause of the Allies.
Our men were always very much amused by the moving picture shows,
the characters of these entertainments being so different from that of
similar exhibitions at the front. They were so tragic and so sentimental that
they did not appeal strongly to the wholesome minds of Canadian soldiers.
It was always very interesting to hear their criticisms of the customs and
outlook of the people with whom we were sojourning. There is no doubt
that the army mind is the sanest and most wholesome in the whole
community. It may not express itself in the most artistic terms or the most
religious language, but its judgments are absolutely sound and worthy of
the most careful consideration. I am sure that Canadian political life, unless
other influences nullify it, will be immeasurably bettered by the soldiers’
vote.
I had the great privilege of a visit to Cardinal Gasquet in the home of
the Dominicans not far from St. Peter’s. The interview had been arranged
for me by an English priest whom I met at the hospital of the Blue Nuns,
where I had taken two of our men who were ill with pneumonia. The
Cardinal is engaged in the stupendous task of revising the text of the Latin
Vulgate. He showed me photographs of the ancient manuscripts with the
various readings noted. It will be years before the great task is completed,
but when it is, it will remain untouched for centuries to come. He told me
that news had just been received of the consecration of the first Roman
192 Visits To Rome and Passchendaele
Catholic Bishop in Russia. This had been made possible by the overthrow
of the reigning dynasty. He was most kind, and told me many interesting
things about life in Rome during the war, and before I left asked me to
write my name in his visitor’s book, pointing out to me on the upper part
of the page the recent signature of the Cardinal Archbishop of Cologne.
Altogether we had been absent by this time for nearly two weeks, and
had still a long return journey ahead of us. I thought, however, that the
valuable service our men were rendering the great cause justified our
over-staying our leave. In fact, when I went to say good-bye to Colonel
Lamb, he and his staff told me that the presence of our men in the City at
that time had been worth any amount of printed propaganda. I hinted that
some statement of that kind to General Currie might be a good thing. To my
great delight, soon after we had returned, General Currie received the
following letter, which has an official stamp which I never expected:–
BRITISH EMBASSY,
ROME.
9 th November, 1917.
“Dear General,
“With reference to the recent visit to Rome of a party of Canadian officers
and soldiers, I am requested by H. E. Sir Rennel Rodd to inform you of the
excellent impression produced among the inhabitants of this city, by the
soldierlike turnout, and excellent and courteous behaviour of all ranks
belonging to the party.
“Their visit has helped to inspire Italians with a feeling of confidence in
their allies at a time of great anxiety and trial.
“Believe me,
Yours very truly,
(Sgd.) CHARLES A. LAMB,
Colonel,
Military Attaché.
Rome.”
hospital in Turin, who had had to leave the Italian front in a hurry, that it
was a sad sight to see the inhabitants of the towns fleeing down the roads
from the advancing enemy. Old and infirm people dragged themselves
along. Parents lost their children and children lost their parents in the
crowd, and the people took with them only the things which they could
carry on their persons. Florence was crowded with these unfortunates, who
were lying out at night in the squares and being tended by the citizens.
There was a great crowd at the station when we arrived, and a number of
Italian soldiers who spoke English gathered round our party and told us that
the war was over and that the soldiers would not fight any more. Our men,
however, were equal to the occasion, and told them that we were going to
keep on fighting no matter what the Italians did, and that there could be no
peace until we had a decisive victory. The whole city was astir, and many
Italian regiments were quartered there. I told the men before we sought for
accommodation in the crowded town, how important it was that we should
show a determined face at this time.
On the following afternoon, which was Sunday, I had a curious
experience. The Y.M.C.A. officer and I were going off to see the great
church of Santa Croce, which is the Italian Westminster Abbey, many great
Italians having been buried there. As we passed down the street my friend
went into a shop to buy some chocolates. While I was waiting, I heard the
stirring notes of the Marseillaise, and looking round saw a band coming up
the street followed by three Italian flags, a number of soldiers, and a rabble
of men, women and children. I called to my companion to come out quickly
and salute the Italian colours. As they passed, we stood on the curb and
saluted with strict military precision. In fact we saluted so well that the
delighted members of the procession grabbed us by the hand and finally
dragged us into their midst, others clapping their hands and shouting “Viva
l’Inghilterra!” I was separated from my companion in the rabble and called
over to him and asked him what it was. He said, “I think it is a Socialist
demonstration.” This rather dismayed me, but I turned to one of the people
by my side and asked him in French what the crowd was. He told me it was
the society for finishing the war, so I called out to my friend, “It’s all right
Captain, it is the society for finishing the war. I have wanted to join that
society for some time.” I saw at once that the procession was an attempt to
pull the Italians together and rouse them to a supreme effort to resist the
enemy and save Italy. The crowd was so enthusiastic about the presence of
representatives of the British Army, that they finally caught us by our legs
and carried us on their shoulders through the streets. It was a most amusing
incident. I could not help thinking that the crowd were the descendants of
the men who had burnt Savonarola at the stake. My friend, whose sense of
194 Visits To Rome and Passchendaele
humour had failed him, shouted over to me, “I hate being made a fool of
like this.” I told him not to be rude as we were helping on the cause of the
Allies. Finally, overcome by our struggles, the men let us down, and we
were pushed along in the crowd to the square in front of the Hotel Minerva.
Here the leaders of the procession invited us into the hotel and we were
taken upstairs to the front room, out of which opened a balcony overlooking
the square. A young Italian officer, who had been a lawyer before the war
and had lost both his eyes, went on to the balcony and made a most
impassioned appeal to his countrymen. The crowd in the square was now
very dense, and received his speech with great enthusiasm. When it was
over, one of the officers of “The society for finishing the war,” came and
urged me to address the crowd. I was so pleased to find that my French was
better understood in Italy than in any place except England, that I asked my
friend if I should speak to them in French. He looked at me very sourly, for
he had not quite got back his equanimity, and said curtly, “You had better
not.” Then I said, “I will talk to them in Italian.” I shall never forget the
look of dismay which passed over his countenance, but I told him it was
helping on the cause of the Allies. I went out on the balcony, and the people
seeing the British uniform and probably mistaking me for a general, at once
began to cheer. I took off my cap, waved it in the air and shouted at the top
of my voice “Viva l’Italia.” It was the only speech they wanted. It was
neither too long nor too short. The crowd repeated the words, and then
shouted, “Viva l’Inghilterra!” and the band actually struck up “God save
the King” and followed it by “Rule Britannia, Britannia rules the waves”
(I wished at the time she had ruled under the waves as well.) I went back
to the room and the Italians were so delighted with my short and pithy
speech, that they invited me to dine with them that night and bring two
officers with me. When we got down to the square, the mob crowded round
us and shook hands with us, and I was afraid that some of the ladies were
going to embrace us. I think people thought we were part of the advance
guard that had been sent from France to the assistance of Italy.
That night three of us attended the dinner given by the officers of “The
society for finishing the war,” in a very fine restaurant. The Deputy for
Florence, who had been one of the members of the government which had
declared war on Austria, was present and I sat by the side of an alderman
of the city. Opposite to me was an English lady who acted as an interpreter.
At the close of the dinner the Deputy rose and made a very eloquent
speech, welcoming us to Italy and saying how much Italians appreciated the
fact that England was one of her Allies. I replied in English, which was
translated by our fair interpreter, and told them how glad we were to be
with them and that we had come, some of our men seven thousand miles,
Visits To Rome and Passchendaele 195
as a voluntary army to fight not only for the British Empire, but for
something even bigger than that, for our common civilization, and that the
war had made the Allies one family. I said that our men were determined
to fight to the bitter end, for we could have no true peace until we had a
decisive victory. Then I added that, if our Division were sent to Italy, we
should all come with great pleasure, knowing that the Italians were our
comrades and warm friends. I thought too, during my speech, that a dugout
in Florence would be worth two in Bully-Grenay. The party seemed very
pleased with my remarks and we all exchanged visiting cards and separated
good friends. The whole affair was very amusing, and when the Italians
pushed back the enemy in 1918, I used to tell the men, amid roars of
laughter, that nothing but my modesty prevented my saying who it was that
had saved Italy, that no one would ever hear from my lips the name of the
man who, when Italy was lying prostrate at the feet of the advancing foe,
shouted into her dying ear the startling words “Viva l’Italia” and set her on
her feet.
Two days afterwards, accompanied to the station by an admiring crowd
and three ladies carrying Italian flags, we bade farewell to Florence and
started on our return journey. We spent the afternoon in Pisa, and, after a
night’s journey, arrived at Turin in the morning. Our men got out of the
train and were making their way to the station when they were met by the
British R.T.O. a very large officer who wore an eyeglass. He brought them
quickly to attention by calling out, “Who are you?” They told him they
were Canadians on leave, and I, fearing bloodshed, went up to the officer
and explained who they were and why they had come. He told me that there
had been a mutiny in Turin that summer and relations between the British
and Italians were very much strained, owing to the action of German
agents. He said he had been living on the top of a volcano for the past three
months, and was afraid to allow any large body of troops to go about the
town lest there might be trouble. I assured him that our men would behave
with great circumspection. He then told me that they would have to be back
in rest-billets, near the station, not later than ten o’clock. I asked if he could
not make it eleven, because I knew that the men wanted to go to the theatre.
He agreed to this and asked me to tell them that roll would be called in the
rest-billets at eleven o’clock. I halted the men and said, “Boys, roll will be
called in the rest-billets tonight at eleven o’clock sharp.” Whether it was or
not we never knew, for none of us was there to hear. The men went to the
theatres and to the various hotels afterwards. No trouble ensued, and when
we left on the following afternoon the R.T.O. was most friendly and gave
us a hearty send-off, no doubt feeling too relieved at our departure to make
any inquiries.
196 Visits To Rome and Passchendaele
indicated and shouted out asking if anybody was there. Suddenly I heard a
faint voice replying, and I hurried to the place from which the sound came.
There I found sitting up in the mud of the trench, his legs almost covered
with water, a lad who told me that he had been there for many hours. I
never saw anything like the wonderful expression on his face. He was
smiling most cheerfully, and made no complaint about what he had
suffered. I told him I would get a stretcher, so I went to some trenches not
far away and got a bearer party and a stretcher and went over to rescue him.
The men jumped down into the trench and moved him very gently, but his
legs were so numb that although they were hit he felt no pain. One of the
men asked him if he was only hit in the legs. He said, “Yes,” but the man
looked up at me and pulling up the boy’s tunic showed me a hideous wound
in his back. They carried him off happy and cheerful. Whether he ever
recovered or not I do not know. If he did and ever sees this book, I wish he
would write and tell me how he is.
That was our last attack at Passchendaele. Our Division had taken its
final objective. The next morning, the infantry were to come out of the line,
so in the late afternoon I returned with some stretcher bearers. Several
times shells came near enough to splatter us with mud, and here and there
I turned aside to bury those for whom graves had just been prepared.
At the front that day, a runner and I had joined in a brief burial service
over the body of a gallant young officer lying where he fell on the side of
a large shell-hole. As I uttered the words–“I am the Resurrection and the
Life, saith the Lord,” it seemed to me that the lonely wind bore them over
that region of gloom and death as if it longed to carry the message of hope
far away to the many sad hearts in Canada whose loved ones will lie, until
the end, in unknown graves at Passchendaele.
198
hauling on the ropes which drew the heavy mud-covered guns made me
weary. When I meet some of my gunner friends in Montreal and Toronto
looking so clean and happy, I think of what they did behind Passchendaele
Ridge, and I take off my hat to them.
I spent three days at Ypres, and then, by jumping lorries, made my way
back to St. Venant and Robecq, where I spent the night. The next morning
I left for Bethune, and thence by the assistance of lorries and a car
continued my journey to our new Divisional Headquarters, which had
found a home at Château de la Haie. Here I had a billet in an upstairs room
over what had been part of a stable. The room was neither beautiful nor
clean, but served as an abode for me and Alberta and her newly-arrived
family. The Château was a large house of no distinction, but it stood in
delightful grounds, and at the back of it was a pond whose clear waters
reflected the tall, leafless trees which bordered it. One fact made the
Château popular and that was, that, up to that time, no shell or bomb had
fallen in the neighbourhood. It was said that the location of the Château
was not to be found on the enemy’s maps. Round about were huts with
accommodation sufficient to house a whole brigade. The charm of the place
was completed by our 4th Division having erected there a large and most
artistic theatre, which would seat on benches nearly one thousand men. It
had a good stage and a pit for the orchestra in front. This theatre, when our
concert party was in full swing, was a source of infinite delight to us all. It
was built on the slope of a hill, the stage being at the lower end and a good
view of the play therefore, could be had from all parts. The scenery was
beautifully painted and the electric lights and foot-lights well arranged.
Near us was the village of Gouy-Servins, where many men were
billeted, and in huts at Souchez and other places along the valley the
various units found their homes. The year’s campaign was now over and we
could look forward to a quiet time during the winter. “C” mess had a very
comfortable hut, with an open fireplace. We were supposed to have the
liveliest entertainments of any mess at Headquarters, and had therefore
many visitors. I shall never forget the jolly face of our president, the
D.A.D.M.S., nor the irrepressible spirit of our A.P.M., son of a
distinguished father who commanded an Army, nor the dry common-sense
humour of our Field Cashier. What delight they took in ragging the Senior
Chaplain, whose automatic ears, as he averred, prevented his hearing the
things he should not. Nor must we forget the Camp Commandant, often
perplexed like Martha with much serving. It was a goodly company and one
much addicted to bridge and other diversions. I shall not forget the
continual appeals of a gallant staff officer with two or three ribbons, who
asked me penitently every morning for a moral uplift, which I noticed
200 Our Last War Christmas
bare room upstairs in which I put my bed. On the garden-gate I hung out my
sign “St. George’s Rectory.” Once again I found myself in the familiar
neighbourhood with all the beloved battalions round us as before. The
theatre was filled night after night, and there were the old gatherings of
officers in the hotel. We regarded it as a great stroke of luck that once more
we were going to spend Christmas out of the line.
On Christmas Eve, when I was preparing to go up to the midnight
Communion Service in the theatre, a new C. of E. Chaplain arrived and
came with me to assist. On the stage the altar was set as before, and the
dear old flag which now for three long years had been devoted to the sacred
purpose shone out as the frontal. The band played the Christmas hymns and
a large number of men attended. Some of them, but not many, had been
there the year before. It was very beautiful and solemn. At midnight on
New Year’s Eve we repeated the service. Again there was a large
congregation, and to me as I looked back to the gathering held in that place
just one year ago it was quite overpowering. How many of those who had
been with us at the dawn of 1917 had passed away? The seats where they
had sat were filled with other men. The hymns they had joined in were sung
by other lips. In my heart went up the cry, “How long, O Lord, how long?”
Once more the hands of the weary world clock had passed over the weeks
and months of another year, and still the end was not in sight. As we stood
in silence, while the buglers sounded the Last Post for the dying year, a
wild and strange vision swept before me: I saw again the weary waste of
mud and the shell ploughed ridge at Vimy; the fierce attacks at Arleux and
Fresnoy; the grim assault on Hill 70 and the hellish agony of
Passchendaele. Surely the ceaseless chiselling of pain and death had graven
deeply into the inmost heart of Canada, the figures 1917.
202
ictory Year, though we did not know it by that name then, opened with
V fine bracing weather, and there was the usual round of dinners and
entertainments with which we always greeted the birth of a new
twelve-month. We had several Canadian-like snow storms. In the midst of
one, I met a forlorn despatch rider coming up the main street on his wheel
with the blinding snow in his face. I stopped him and asked him if he
wouldn’t like to have some dinner, and I took him into the hotel. He had
been to Bethune to buy some V.C. ribbon for one of the men of his
battalion who was going to be presented with it on the following day, and
was so proud of his mission that he made no complaint about the long and
tiring journey through the snowstorm. The country behind Bruay is broken
up into pleasant valleys, and there are plenty of trees on the hills, so the
winter aspect of the district made us feel quite at home. I used to give many
talks to the men on what I called “The war outlook,” I thought it helped to
encourage them, and I was perfectly sincere in my belief, which grew
stronger as time went on, in spite of notable set-backs, that we should have
victory before the end of the year.
We had a visit at this time from Bishop du Pencier, who came to hold
a confirmation for us at Divion. There were forty candidates, nearly all of
them being presented by chaplains of the 1st Brigade. It was a solemn
service and made a deep impression upon the men. The hymns were sung
very heartily, and the Bishop gave a most helpful address. I remember
Victory Year Opens 203
specially one young fellow called Vaughan Groves, who came to me for the
preparation. He was a small, rather delicate young lad about nineteen years
of age, and was a runner for the 2nd Brigade. He had a fine open face and
had the distinction of having won the M.M. and bar. To have won these
honours as a Brigade runner was a mark of rare courage. I felt the deepest
admiration for the boy, who was the only son of a widowed mother in
Canada. He never touched liquor and had lived a perfectly straight life, and
his was just the type of character which found scope for great deeds in the
war. After the confirmation I lost sight of him, until some months
afterwards when, as I was going through Arras one night, I looked into a
cellar near the 2nd Brigade Headquarters, and seeing a number of men in
there, went down to have a talk. I found they were the Brigade runners, and
so I at once asked for my young friend. They told me that he had been
wounded in the arm and when he came to the dressing station, finding there
a man who was dying from loss of blood, had at once offered his own blood
for transfusion into the veins of the sufferer. So much had to be taken from
him that the boy got very weak and had to be sent back to England to
recuperate. The men added that it was just the thing that little Vaughan
would do. He was the finest, cleanest little chap, they said, that they had
ever met. It was always delightful to hear such testimony from men to the
innate power of human goodness. I have never seen or heard of Vaughan
Groves since, but I hope that some one may read this book who will be able
to tell me how and where he is.
I was not sorry when our rest was over. There was more time to get
home-sick when we were out of the line. If we had to be in the war at all,
the happiest place was at the front. So when on January 23rd I left Bruay for
Bracquemont, I did so with little regret. My billet at Bracquemont was the
same which I had occupied in the previous September, and it seemed quite
like home. Once more our men held the trenches on Hill 70 and the
battalions in the back area were billeted in Mazingarbe, Le Brebis, and
Sains-en-Gohelle.
The day after I arrived, I determined to do some parish visiting in the
slums–as I called the front line. I started off in my old trench uniform and
long habitant boots, carrying with me a supply of bully-beef, tinned milk
and hardtack. I went through Bully-Grenay and then out through Maroc to
Loos. Here once again the dressing station at Fort Glatz was occupied by
a doctor and staff from one of our ambulances. I spent a little while there
and then continued my journey up the road past Crucifix Corner to the
trenches. The 7th and 8th Battalions were in the line. The day was fine and
the warm sunshine was hardening the mud, so things did not look too
unpleasant. I went to the 7th Battalion first and found the gallant men
204 Victory Year Opens
carrying on in the usual way. Hugo Trench was very quiet, and from it one
could obtain a good view of the German lines and of Lens beyond. It was
great fun to go into the saps and surprise the two or three men who were on
guard in them. The dugouts were curious places. The entrance steps were
steep, and protected by blankets to keep out gas. At the bottom would be a
long timber-lined passage, dark and smelly, out of which two or three little
rooms would open. The men off duty would be lying about on the floor
sound asleep, and it was often hard to make one’s way among the prostrate
bodies. The officers’ mess would have a table in it and boxes for seats. On
a shelf were generally some old newspapers or magazines and a pack of
cards. In the passage, making it narrower than ever, were a few shelves
used as bunks. At the end of the passage would be the kitchen, supplied
with a rude stove which sent its smoke up a narrow pipe through a small
opening. In the trenches the cooks were always busy, and how they served
up the meals they did was a mystery to me. Water was brought in tins from
a tap in one of the trenches to the rear, and therefore was not very abundant.
I have occasionally, and against my will, seen the process of dish-washing
in the trenches. I could never make out from the appearance of the water
whether the cook and his assistant were washing the plates or making the
soup, the liquid in the tin dish was so thick with grease. However, it was
part of the war, and the men were doing their best under most unpropitious
circumstances.
I had come prepared to spend a night in the trenches, and had decided
to do so in the large German-made dugout in the chalk-pit which was held
by “D” Company of the 8th Battalion. The officer on duty with the 7th
Battalion kindly acted as my guide. The day had worn away, and the bright
moon was lighting up the maze of yellow trenches. We passed along,
exchanging many greetings at different places, until we came to the outpost
of the 8th Battalion at the top of the path which leads down to the chalk-pit.
Here four men were sitting keeping guard. They gave me a warm greeting,
and I told them that if I were not in a hurry to let my guide go back to his
lines, I would stop and recite some of my poems in the moonlight. It struck
me that they seemed more amused than disappointed. So wishing them
good-luck, we started onward down the slippery path which led into the pit,
where many shells had torn up the ground and where were remains not only
of uniforms and mess-tins and rifles but also of German bodies. We had
hardly reached the entrance to the dugout when two or three of those shells
which the men called “pineapples” arrived in quick succession. They
sounded so close that we dived into the place of refuge. We found the O.C.
of the company inside, and he kindly arranged to give me a large bed all to
myself in one of the chambers of the dugout. Suddenly a runner appeared
Victory Year Opens 205
and told us that the pineapples had hit the outpost, killing not only some of
the men to whom I had just been talking but also the Adjutant of the
battalion. I at once got up and went back to the place. The line was quiet
now, and the whole scene was brightly lighted by the moon and looked so
peaceful that one could hardly imagine that we were in the midst of war,
but, lying in the deep shadow at the bottom of the trench, with its face
downwards, was the body of the Adjutant. He had been killed instantly. In
the outpost beside the trench, were the bodies of the men who had been on
duty when I passed a few minutes before.
I stayed with the sentry guarding the bodies until a stretcher party
arrived and carried them away. Then I went back to the dugout and visited
the men who were crowded into its most extraordinary labyrinth of
passages and recesses. In the very centre of the place, which must have
been deep underground, there was a kitchen, and the cooks were preparing
a hot meal for the men to eat before “stand to” at dawn. The men of course
were excessively crowded and many were heating their own food in
mess-tins over smoking wicks steeped in melted candle grease. All were
bright and cheerful as ever, in spite of the stifling atmosphere, which must
have been breathed by human lungs over and over again. It was quite late
when I stretched myself on my wire mattress with my steel helmet for a
pillow. Only a piece of canvas separated me from the room where a lot of
men were supposed to be sleeping. They were not only not asleep but kept
me awake by the roars of laughter which greeted the stories they were
telling. However, I managed to doze off in time, and was rudely wakened
early in the morning by the metallic thud of pineapples on the ground
overhead. I was wondering what it meant when a man came down to the
O.C.’s room, next to mine, and aroused him with the somewhat exciting
news, “Major, the Germans are making an attack.” It was not long before
the Major was hurrying up the steps to the passage above, and it was not
long before I followed, because I always had a horror of being bombed in
a dugout. In the passage upstairs all the men were “standing to” with fixed
bayonets, and plenty of Mills bombs in their pockets. They were a most
cheerful crowd, and really I think that we all felt quite pleased at the
excitement. A man came up to me and asked me what weapon I had. I told
him I had a fixed bayonet on the end of my walking stick. This did not seem
to satisfy him, so he went over to a cupboard and brought me two bombs.
I told him to take them away because they might be prematures. He laughed
at this and said, “How will you protect yourself, Sir, if the enemy should
get into the trench?” I told him I would recite one of my poems. They
always put my friends to flight and would probably have the same effect
upon my foes.
206 Victory Year Opens
By this time the rain of pineapples overhead was very heavy, and I went
to the door of the dugout where the Major was looking out. It was a curious
scene. Day had just dawned, and we could see the heaps of broken rubbish
and ripped up ground in front of us, while directly opposite at the top of the
chalk-pit was our front line. Pacing up and down this was a corporal, his
form silhouetted against the gray morning sky. He had his rifle with fixed
bayonet on his shoulder, and as he walked to and fro he sang at the top of
his voice the old song, “Oh my, I don’t want to die, I want to go home.”
The accompaniment to the song was the “swish” of the shells overhead and
the bursting of them in the trenches behind. I told the Major that if we
could only get a moving picture of the corporal and a gramophone record
of his song with its accompaniment we could make thousands of dollars by
an exhibition of it in Canada.
The next night I stayed at Cité St. Pierre. Who will ever forget the road
up to it, and the corner near the ruined fosse, which was always liable to be
shelled unexpectedly? In cellars beneath the unwholesome and dilapidated
town our men found billets. They were really quite comfortable, but at
night when the place was as black as pitch, and one had to grope one’s way
in the darkness along debris-covered streets, shaken every now and then by
the German missiles from the sky, one longed for Canada and the
well-lighted pavements of Montreal and Toronto.
On February 14th, at the officers’ club at Corps Headquarters in
Camblain l’Abbé, we had a great gathering of all the officers who had
landed in France three years before. The one hundred and fifty who sat
down to dinner were only a small part of the original number, and, before
the anniversary came round again, many of those present were called to
join the unseen host to whose memory that night we drank in silence. It was
strange to look back over three years and think that the war, which in
February 1915 we thought was going to be a matter of months, had now
been protracted for three years and was still going on. What experiences
each of those present had had! What a strange unnatural life we had been
called upon to live, and how extraordinarily efficient in the great war game
had each become! It was a most interesting gathering of strong and resolute
men filled with sublime ideals of duty and patriotism, who nevertheless
were absolutely free from all posing and self-consciousness. They had
learnt how to play the game; they had learnt both how to command and how
to obey; they had learnt how to sink selfish interests and aims, and to work
only and unitedly for the great cause.
On February 19th I held the dedication service at the unveiling of the
artillery monument at Les Tilleuls. Owing to its exposed position no
concourse of men was allowed, but there was a large gathering of the Staff,
Victory Year Opens 207
ver four months had passed away since my return from Rome, so leave
O was again due. Immediately after the unveiling of the Artillery
monument I started off in a car for Boulogne, and the next afternoon
arrived in London. Conditions there were worse than they had been the year
before. The streets were darker and food was scarcer. I went as far north as
Edinburgh, but when I arrived at that city I found it cold and wintry and
wrapped in mists. There were many naval men there, and I paid an
interesting visit to a damaged submarine which was being repaired in the
dry-dock. It was of course nice to meet friends again, but, beyond that, my
last leave was not a pleasant one. It was a time of great anxiety. The
Americans had come into the war, but they were not yet ready. Another
campaign was before us, and the issue of it none could foresee. I was
haunted perpetually by the dread of meeting with some accident, and so
being sent back from the front. Several times I had a vivid dream, that I had
got back to Canada and found that the war was still going on and I could
not return to it. I shall never forget the joy of waking on such occasions and
looking with dawning consciousness upon my surroundings and feeling that
I was still at the front. It was a happy day for me, therefore, when on March
8th I arrived once more at Bracquemont, in the midst of my beloved
war-family, and able to re-visit Liévin, Loos, and Hill 70.
My favorite home in the trenches was the dugout in the chalk-pit,
which I have just described, and I often wish I could be suddenly
The German Offensive 209
transported there and revive old memories. We were planning at this time
to make a big gas-attack along the Canadian Corps front. Three thousand
gas-cylinders were to be fired by electricity upon the enemy. As I wanted
to see this, I made my way to the chalk-pit. The time fixed for the event was
five minutes to eleven at night. If the attack was to come off, the word
“Japan” was to come through on the wires; if, owing to the wind being in
the wrong direction, the attack had to be postponed, the word “Russia”
would be sent. At 10:45 I climbed up the steps to the observation post at the
back of the chalk-pit and waited. From this point I had a good view of the
line towards Lens. I watched the luminous hands of my watch, and they
passed the hour of eleven without anything occurring, as the breeze came
from the East. I knew the word “Russia,” the name of the country that
failed us, must have been sent over the wires. It was a queer sensation to sit
up there in the dark with no sound but the soft murmur of the night wind in
our ears, and the crash of an occasional shell. In those long dark stretches
of waste land around me, thousands of human beings on both sides of the
line were awake and active, either burrowing like ants in the ground or
bringing up rations and war material along the communication trenches.
I spent four nights that week in the chalk-pit waiting for the attack, and
on March 21st, the night of the day on which the Germans launched their
fierce attack against our Fifth Army, my patience was rewarded and the
wind was propitious. I mounted the observation post and once more peered
over the black stretches of country under the starlit sky. Suddenly, at five
minutes to eleven, there was a burst of artillery fire, and over our heads
with the usual swishing sound the gas-cylinders sped forth. The German
lines were lit with bursting shells. Up went their rockets calling to their
artillery for retaliation. I could hear their gas bells ringing to warn their
men of the poison that was being poured upon them. It must have been a
drenching rain of death. I heard gruesome tales afterwards of desolate
enemy trenches and batteries denuded of men. The display of fireworks was
magnificent, and the German artillery in the rear were not slow in replying.
A great artillery duel like that in the darkness of the night over a waste of
ground on which no human habitation could be seen had a very weird
effect, and was wonderful to behold. I climbed down into the dugout and
made my way through it to the chalk-pit, and then up to an outpost beyond.
Here were four men, and I found that three of them had just come up from
the base and that this was their first night in the line. They did not seem to
be enjoying it as much as I thought they should, so I remarked that it was
a beautiful night and pointed out to them the extraordinary romance of
being actually out in the front line during such a bombardment. They
seemed to get more enthusiastic later on, but the next morning I was
210 The German Offensive
wakened in my room by the laughter of men on the other side of the canvas
wall, and I heard one old soldier telling, to the amusement of his fellows,
of my visit on the previous evening. He said “We were out there with the
shells falling round us, and who should come up but the Canon, and the
first thing the old beggar said was, ‘Boys, what a lovely night it is.’” The
men roared at the idea. It was always illuminating to get a chance of seeing
yourself as others saw you.
That day, before I had gone to the chalk-pit, I heard from a staff officer
at Corps of the German attack in the South, and I gathered from his manner
that things were not going well. On March 29th we suddenly shifted our
Headquarters to Château de la Haie. Here we were told that we had to be
ready to move again at a moment’s notice. Very bad news had come from
the South, for the Germans were advancing, and our Fifth Army had been
pushed back. The enemy had now got the initiative into his hands, and
things were exceedingly serious. The Americans would not be ready for
some time, and the question was how to stay the onrush of the fresh
divisions which the Germans were hurling against us. An order from
General Currie, couched in beautiful language, told us that there was to be
no retreat for Canadians, and that, if need be, we should fall where we
stood. There was no panic, only firmer resolve and greater activity in every
department. Though I made it a point of never questioning our staff about
war secrets, I soon became aware that our Division was to be sent South to
try and stem the oncoming tide.
Every night the 4th Divisional concert party gave an entertainment in
the theatre, which was crowded with men. A stranger could not have told
from the roars of laughter that shook the audience from time to time that we
were about to face the fiercest ordeal of the war. The 2nd Brigade was
quartered round us first, and one night in the theatre an officer appeared in
front of the stage between the acts and ordered all the officers and men of
the 5th Battalion, who were present, to report at once to their headquarters.
Instantly the men got up and left, the rows of vacant seats looking quite
tragic. The play went on. Again, another battalion, and another, was called
off. The audience dwindled. It reminded one of the description in the “Tale
of Two Cities” of the condemned men in prison waiting for the call of the
executioner. Before the close of the performance the theatre was almost
empty. The 2nd Brigade moved away that night and the 3rd took their places
the next day. I knew that they, too, would have to move suddenly, so I
arranged that at night we should have a service followed by a Celebration
of the Holy Communion in the theatre after the play was over. Once again
the building was crowded with an enthusiastic audience, and, after the play
was ended, I announced the service. To my astonishment, most of the men
The German Offensive 211
stayed and others crowded in, so we must have had nearly a thousand men
present. The concert party had received orders to pack up their scenery
immediately and move off. While I was on the stage getting the altar ready
the scene shifters were hard at work behind me. In spite of this disturbance,
we had a wonderful service. I gave them a short address, and spoke about
the high call which had come to Canadians to do big things, and how the
eyes of the world were upon us. We were the champions of right, and I
asked them to go forth in the power of God and do their duty. Then I began
the Communion Service. The colours of the flag which hung over the altar
glowed like an inspiration. The two altar lights shone like stars above it. At
the back of the stage (but we heeded them not) were the busy men packing
up the scenery. We sang the hymn “O God our help in ages past,” and at the
time of communion about two hundred officers and men mounted the stage
in turn and knelt in rows to receive the Bread of Life. It was a thrilling
moment, and it showed how, underlying the superficial thoughtlessness of
the soldier’s life, there was the deep and abiding sense of the reality and
need of God. The service ended about eleven p.m.
After shaking hands with some of the men I went back to my billet and
there found that we had to start that night for parts unknown. All our
surplus baggage had been sent off and only what was absolutely necessary
was retained. The members of “C” mess were sitting round the table having
a little liquid refreshment and waiting for the bus which was to take them
off. Our A.D.M.S., who was starting at once, kindly offered to take me with
him in an ambulance. Alberta and I, with two or three men, got into the
vehicle, and I bid farewell for the last time to Château de la Haie. It was a
bright moonlight night and the air was cold, but the roads were dry and
dusty. The A.D.M.S., who was the only person who knew our destination,
sat in front with the driver and told him the various turns to take. Clouds of
dust blew back into the ambulance as we sped onward. It was a curious
expedition. The war seemed to be more real than ever. One felt that a new
page in its history was being turned. I wondered what was in store for us
and what our experiences were going to be. I was also surprised that one
was able to go forth without any emotion upon an adventure of such
magnitude. On and on we rattled down the moonlit roads, past sleeping
villages, and round sharp curves which jolted us in the car, until at last, at
half-past two, we pulled up suddenly in front of some large iron gates
which gave entrance to the grounds of a château standing back some
distance from the road. The A.D.M.S. and his staff got out and hunted for
a cottage which they could use as an office.
I thought I had better go off and find a place where I could spend the
rest of the night. With my haversack over my shoulder and followed by
212 The German Offensive
Alberta, I entered the gate, and made my way up the avenue till I came to
the Château. It was a large and picturesque building, and stood out nobly
against the outline of the trees in the park. The moon lit up the gray stone
front, which was made all the richer by the variegated light and shade. The
mansion, however, showed no inclination to be hospitable. All the windows
were tightly closed with shutters, and there was no appearance of life
anywhere. I knew we were not far from the advancing Germans, and I
supposed that the inhabitants had all fled. I was so cold and tired that I
determined to force an entrance and spend the night inside. I walked round
to the back, where I saw a great park richly wooded. A large door in the
centre of the building, reached by a broad flight of stone steps, seemed to
offer me a chance of getting inside. I went up and tried the handle, when,
to my surprise, the door opened and I found myself in a beautiful hall richly
furnished and lighted by a lamp. Antlers hung on the wall, and the place
had the appearance of an English country-house. After my long ride, and
at that hour of the night, I felt as if I were in a dream. I saw a door to the
right, and opening it was admitted to a modern drawing-room luxuriously
furnished. A grate fire was burning on the hearth, and on a centre-table
stood silver candelabra with lighted candles. There were also plates of
bread and butter, some very nice cups and saucers, and a silver coffee-pot.
At once I said to myself, “I am evidently expected.” It was like a story from
the Arabian Nights. I looked about the place and not a soul appeared,
Alberta tucked herself up on a rug and was soon fast asleep. I was just
preparing to partake of the refreshments which, it seemed, some fairy
godmother had provided, when in came one of our A.D.Cs. He was as much
surprised to see me as I was to see him. He told me that our Divisional
Commander had arrived there about an hour or two before and had gone to
bed, and that we were in the home of a certain count whose servants had all
fled. He also told me that there was a bedroom that I could have upstairs,
and which would not be occupied by our staff until the next evening. I had
a cup of coffee, and then, calling Alberta and taking a candle, I climbed a
very rambling staircase till I reached the top storey, where I found an empty
room with a very dirty bed in it. However, I was glad to get a place in
which to rest, and so, with my rain-coat for a covering, I went to sleep. The
next morning, having foraged for some water in which I had a good wash,
I went off to the village to get some food. I met many of our units coming
up in busses. Some were halted by the wayside, and nobody knew what we
were going to do or why we were there. The Imperial transport officer in
charge had either acted under wrong orders or else the drivers did not know
the roads. Some of our battalions had lost their way, one even entered a
village at the other end of which were the Germans, and two of our
The German Offensive 213
the whole of the 3rd Brigade were quartered. It was a most curious abode.
No one knows when the caves were dug. They were probably extended
from time to time as the chalk was quarried for the purpose of building the
town. Long passages stretched in different directions, and from them
opened out huge vaulted chambers where the battalions were billeted. I
spent the night with the 14th Battalion, and the next day held services in
turn for each of the four units of the Brigade. The 16th Battalion occupied
a huge cavern with others branching off from it. I could hardly imagine
more picturesque surroundings for a military service. The candle flames
twinkled like stars in all directions in the murky atmosphere, and the
singing of the men resounded through the cave. Overhead was the town
which the enemy was shelling. In one of the caves we found the foundation
of what had been an old prison, with a date upon it of the 18th century. It
was very pleasant wandering down the passages, with a candle stuck on the
top of my steel helmet, and meeting everywhere old friends who were glad
of the temporary rest. Life there, however, was very strange. One could not
tell whether outside it was day or night. I made my way back that afternoon
by a passage which led out to one of the Arras sewers, by the side of which
there was a stone pavement enabling one with a good flashlight to walk
safely. The exit from the sewer, which now consisted of a shallow stream
of perfectly clear water, led me up to a house in one of the streets, and
thence by a car I made my way to Warlus, and home to Fosseaux.
A few days afterwards our Headquarters were moved up to Etrun, and
there we found ourselves crowded into the quaint little town. The Château
was our headquarters, and a tar-paper house which the Engineers built for
me under a spreading hawthorn tree became my home. Etrun was a most
interesting place historically. It had been the site of a Roman camp where
Valentinian had his headquarters in the 4th century. The large mound, or
vallum, which the Romans had thrown up to protect themselves from the
attacks of the German tribes, is now a thickly wooded hill, pierced by the
road which connects the village with the Arras highway. The grounds of the
Château were most delightful, and before the French Revolution the house
had been a convent. In the garden was the recumbent stone effigy,
overgrown with moss, of one of the sisters. The most beautiful thing about
the place is the clear stream, wide and deep, which comes from
underground and flows over sparkling white pebbles through the green
meadows to the river Scarpe. This stream was evidently the source of
attraction to the Romans, who always made their camps where there was
a plentiful supply of running water. The garden on one side was built up in
stone terraces along which were gravel walks, where, no doubt, the nuns of
old enjoyed their holy meditations. In the stream, as it wandered through
The German Offensive 215
went round the place together until we met a man coming up the road, who
told us that a bomb had struck the railway bridge and exploded two mines
which we had in readiness in case the Germans were to make an advance.
The bridge had been completely shattered, but luckily our sentries there had
escaped. The Curé and I then parted and went back to our beds.
It was a great treat for our men who were billeted in villages in the
Scarpe Valley to have plenty of water, and in the various mill-ponds they
found swimming-places. Our front line at this time extended for quite a
long distance north and south of the Scarpe. In fact the river acted for a
short distance as No Man’s Land. On the north of the Scarpe were the ruins
of the village of Fampoux, and on the south those of Feuchy. How well our
men will remember the towns of Maroeil, Anzin, St. Nicholas and St.
Aubin. I used to go off across the meadow lands, now bright and fresh with
spring verdure, till I got to the St. Eloi road, and then by jumping lorries
would make my way to St. Nicholas and on to Cam Valley. On the east side
of the valley were quaint dugouts which were occupied by the battalion in
reserve. A path up the valley led to the communication trench, and finally
down Pudding Lane to Pudding Trench. The ground was elevated, so that
from one of the trenches which led down towards Fampoux I was able to
see with my glasses the country behind the German lines. I saw quite
distinctly one day the spires of Douai, and in another direction on a hillside
I could make out a railway train which must have been carrying German
troops. I had many interesting walks through the trenches, and slept there
several times. On one occasion I took Alberta with me, but she would
persist in going off into No Man’s Land hunting for rats. The arrival of a
minnenwerfer, however, gave her a great fright and made her jump back
into the trench with alacrity, much to the amusement of the men, who said
that she knew the use of trenches.
One day I went down the trench which led into Fampoux. Whizzbangs
were falling every now and then, so the men were keeping low. At one
place there was a good view of the German lines. An officer and a sergeant
stood there looking through their glasses and pointed out to me a spot in the
hillside opposite where we could see a number of the enemy. They came
out of one trench, crossed the road, and went down into another. The
officer told me that he had counted over a hundred that day. I asked him
why he did not telephone to Battalion Headquarters to inform the artillery.
He told me he had no telephone. Then I said, “Why don’t you send a
runner?” He explained that Fampoux was occupied as an outpost, and that
no runners were allowed to be sent from there during the daytime; orders
to this effect being very strict. “I am not a runner,” I said, “and I am not in
your Battalion. If you will give me the map-location of the place where you
218 In Front of Arras
think the Germans are congregating, I will take it back with me to the
liaison officer at Battalion Headquarters.” He was very pleased with my
offer, because at this time we were daily expecting a big attack upon our
lines. To get back we had to crawl down a steep place in the trench, which
was in view of the Germans, until at last we reached the cellar of a ruined
house which the O.C. of the company used as a billet. He got out his maps
and gave me the exact location of the road and trenches where the Germans
had been seen to pass, and where apparently they were massing. I got him
to write down the map-location carefully on a piece of paper, and then,
armed with this and feeling very important, I started back, this time
avoiding the trench and going up the Fampoux road on the side of which
there was some torn and broken camouflage. I came across a steel helmet
by the wayside with part of a man’s head in it, and the road had been pretty
well battered by shells, but I felt exceedingly proud at being able to do
something which might possibly avert an attack upon our men. I went on
till at last I saw in the hillside the beginning of a trench, and made my way
up this to Pudding Lane and found Battalion Headquarters. The Artillery
officer had been having a quiet time and was delighted at the prospect of
ordering a “shoot.” At once he telephoned back to the brigade, and not long
after, when the quiet sun was setting in the West, a most terrific
bombardment of artillery, both field and heavy, smashed the German
trenches on the hill opposite. The headquarters men and I looked over the
valley and saw the line of bursting shells. Much to their amusement, I told
them that this was my music, that I had ordered the shoot. I felt like the fly
on the axle of a cart, who said to his companion fly, “Look at the dust we
are making.”
On another occasion, I was filled with almost equal pride, when,
meeting on the roadside a company of men who were going into the
trenches for the first time and were waiting for a guide, I offered my
services and actually led the company of young heroes into the trenches
myself. The humour of the situation was so palpable that the men felt as if
they were going to a picnic.
The trenches on the Feuchy side of the Scarpe were well made, and led
up to the higher ground to the east of Arras, where they joined the lines of
a Scots Division. At one point we saw in No Man’s Land a lonely tent,
which I was told had been occupied by a British chaplain before we had
been driven back. I paid a most enjoyable visit to the engineers in Arras and
stayed at Battalion Headquarters. They were in a large and comfortable
house in the Place St. Croix. In the dining room we had a grate fire, a rug
on the floor, and several easy chairs. A most sumptuous dinner was served,
and one could scarcely believe that we were in a war.
In Front of Arras 219
The men of the battalion were billeted in the deep cellars under a row
of houses at the end of the Grande Place. Some of these houses dated back
to the time of the Spanish occupation, so the cellars must have been very
ancient. They were vaulted in stone and were connected together by
passages, so they were not only quite safe from shells but were exceedingly
interesting and picturesque. We had several services for the men and one
for a field ambulance which made its home in the Deaf and Dumb Asylum.
In a large room in the Asylum there was a good piano, so it enabled us to
use the place at one time as a church and at another as a ballroom. There
was a strange charm about dear old Arras which is quite indescribable. In
spite of the ruined buildings and the damaged grass-grown streets, there
was the haunting beauty of a quiet medievalism about the city. The narrow
streets, the pleasant gardens hidden behind the houses, spoke of an age that
had passed. Arras has been the centre of interest in many wars, and Julius
Caesar made his headquarters there in B.C. 65. The river Scarpe has carried
to the sea many memories of hostile hosts that have fought along its banks.
To walk back from the dressing station in the small hours of the morning,
when the moon was shining on the silent and half-ruined streets and
squares, was a weird experience. Surely, if ghosts ever haunt the scenes of
their earthly life, I must have had many unseen companions with me on
such occasions. There were still two or three shops in the place where
souvenirs and other small articles were sold to the men, and there were
hoards of champagne and other wines in some of the cellars, but only a few
of the inhabitants remained and they lived hidden lives in the underground
retreats.
Our Division, however, was soon moved from Etrun to Château d’Acq,
where I arrived at four one morning after a visit to the trenches. I found my
billet in an Armstrong hut. The people who had occupied the Château since
we were there must have experienced an air raid, because extraordinary
precautions had been taken to guard against bombs. I lit my lamp and found
that the bed was surrounded on all sides by a wall composed of two
thicknesses of sandbags. When I got down Into it I felt as if I were in a
grave. In the morning I got my batman to remove the fortification, as I
thought there was no occasion to anticipate the sensations of being buried.
However, at night I often heard German aeroplanes overhead, and it was a
relief when their intermittent buzzing died off into the distance.
We were now a long way from the front line, but by jumping lorries I
was still able to go forward and visit the slums. On returning from such a
visit one afternoon I suffered a great loss. The order had gone out some
time before that all stray dogs were to be shot, and many poor little
four-footed souls were sent into whatever happy land is reserved for the
220 In Front of Arras
race which has been the earliest and best friend of man. I had kept a sharp
lookout on Alberta, but I never dreamt that anyone would shoot her.
However, that evening while I was getting ready to go off to Ecoivres, and
Alberta was playing in front of my hut, the sergeant of the police, carried
her off, unknown to me, and ordered a man to shoot her. When I came out
from my hut, and whistled for my faithful friend, I was told that she had
been condemned to death. I could hardly believe it; but to my dismay I
found that it was only too true, and the poor little dog, who was known all
over the Division and had paid many visits to the trenches, was not only
shot but buried. Filled with righteous anger, I had the body disinterred and
a proper grave dug for it in front of a high tree which stands on a hill at the
back of the grounds. There, surrounded by stones, is the turf-covered
mound, and on the tree is nailed a white board with this epitaph neatly
painted in black:–
Alberta, much respected in life, was honoured in death, for nearly all
the men at Headquarters were present when she was buried, and one of
them told me that at a word from me they would lay out the police. I should
have liked to have given the word, but I told them that we had a war on
with the Germans, and that we had better not start another till it was
finished. On the following day the board with the epitaph was placed in
position in the presence of a Brigadier-General and our kind-hearted and
sympathetic C.R.E. I was so filled with indignation at the loss of my
companion, who, wherever I tied up Dandy, would always mount guard
over him and allow no one to approach him, that I determined to seek a
billet away from Headquarters, and near the front. However, this intention
was frustrated a day or two later by an order which came through for our
Division to go into rest at a place called Le Cauroy, not far from the town
of Frevent, and about 15 kilometres to the southwest of Château d’Acq.
221
t was late in the evening when I reached the Château at Le Cauroy, and
I I found that I was to be billeted in the house of the Curé, on one side of
the fine avenue of lime trees. Ross was waiting for me and took the horse,
and I went inside to my room. A curious sensation came over me of having
seen the place before. It seemed as if I had been there in one of my dreams,
but the mystery was cleared up on the following day by my finding out
from the Vicaire that this was the place where I had spent such a gloomy
Sunday on the 22nd of October, 1916, during our return from the Somme.
The count who owned the Château was naval attaché to the French
Embassy in London, but his wife and children, with the servants, occupied
apartments on the right wing of the building. The presence of a lady gave
a special charm to the place, and tennis on a good court under the trees in
the park was most enjoyable. On several occasions some of our Canadian
Sisters from the C.C.S. at Frevent honoured us with their presence at
dinner, which was followed by a dance. Under the trees in the avenue, a
most picturesque open theatre was erected by the engineers, and here our
concert party gave us nightly performances of their new play, which was
called “The Marriage Market.” Hundreds of men from the battalions around
would sit on the soft grass under the overhanging trees through which we
could see the stars, and on the brightly lighted stage, with the orchestra in
front, we had an exhibition of real talent. The weather was delightful and
the men enjoyed a holiday in the country. At a little distance behind the
222 Sports and Pastimes
asked me to let him know when to send for me. Our plans, however, were
upset a day or two afterwards by the Headquarters of the Division moving
off to the beautiful Château at Villers Chatel. They left in the morning, and
as usual I followed leisurely on Dandy. I went through some pretty villages.
No soldiers were to be seen, and the quiet ordinary life of the people was
undisturbed by the war. The world was bathed in sunshine and the fields
were brilliant with new crops. Every little hamlet was embowered in trees,
and the small white houses with their red tiled roofs spoke of peace. In the
solemn light of evening I came to the entrance gate of my new home.
The Château of Villers Chatel was a fine modern building with an old
round tower at one end. This tower is all that remains of the original
structure, but it was kept in good condition and the interior was most
artistically arranged. My room was in the garret and was approached by a
spiral staircase, very narrow and steep. The Château was enlivened by the
presence of two Countesses; both very pleasant ladies who had their own
apartments and who kindly entertained us at night in their cheery
drawing-room. On the wide lawn in front of the Château a huge chestnut
tree stood, rich in leaves, with low boughs branching in all directions and
covering a wide radius, and with their tips almost touching the grass. The
tree furnished a green shelter for a large number of persons. The sun could
not penetrate the foliage, and the giant trunk was covered with rugged bark
beautifully coloured. Here, on Sunday mornings, I placed my flag-covered
altar, and Church Parade was held under the tree. The men, over a hundred
in number, stood in a semi-circle in front of me, and the bright sunlight
beyond the rim of overhanging boughs lit up the green grass around. It was
one of the most beautiful places imaginable for a church service, and the
branches made a vaulted roof overhead. On one side of the garden was a
large and elaborate cement grotto, and a statue of the Blessed Virgin stood
in a niche at the back. Seats for worshippers were placed in front. The
Countesses were moved by piety to keep a number of candles blazing in the
grotto all night, invoking thereby the protection of Our Lady. Our staff,
who walked not by faith but by sight, were much worried by the strong
light which could easily be seen from a German aeroplane. However, no
one could muster up courage enough to interfere with the devotion of our
hostesses, and as a matter of fact we never had any bombing raids at Villers
Chatel. It was a question among the officers as to whether our immunity
should be attributed to the power of prayer or to extraordinary good-luck.
At the end of the lawn facing the Château was a forest of magnificent
trees. It was in the fields at the back of this wood that we had held the
memorial service for the 2nd Brigade, which I have already described. One
of the forest paths was in the form of a pergola. The trees had been trimmed
224 Sports and Pastimes
so that the boughs overhead were interlaced and it went for about half a
mile into the forest, like the vaulted aisle of a church. The sunlight through
the green leaves overhead cast on the pathway a mysterious light suggestive
of fairyland.
Our battalions were once more in their old billets in the neighbourhood,
and as we were still at rest I had many opportunities of visiting them. How
well I remember going about and delivering my lecture on our leave trip to
Rome. As I look back upon my war-memories, I think that those talks were
the most delightful experiences I have ever had. I really had nothing to say,
but I knew that anything which could occupy and amuse the minds of those
brave lads, who were daily preparing to hurl themselves against the enemy,
was worth while. I would go to the C.O. of a battalion and say, “Colonel,
I would like to come and give your men a talk on our leave trip to Rome.”
He would always take the matter very seriously, thinking I had some
learned discourse on architecture, or some other absolutely futile subject
to give the men. But being too polite to tell me to go to Jericho, or
somewhere else, he would say, “Yes, I am sure it would be very interesting.
How long will the lecture last?” On my replying, “About two hours and a
half,” his countenance would fall. He was struggling between his fear of
offending me and his fear of doing something which would bore the men.
Sometimes colonels would say, “That’s a long lecture.” But I urged them
to take my word for it and to let the thing go ahead, and if I saw I was
boring the men I would stop. So the lecture would be announced. I suppose
I must have given it to something like twenty thousand men. I would arrive
at the battalion Headquarters in the afternoon, have dinner with the C.O.
and Adjutant in their billet, and then walk over to some pleasant field on
which a thousand men were drawn up in line, presenting a most proper
military appearance. The sun would be setting behind the trees which
skirted the parade ground, and, after telling the Colonel and other officers
to keep in the background, I would go over in front of the battalion and tell
them that the Colonel had handed the parade over to me, and that they were
to break ranks and sit on the ground as close as possible. At once military
stiffness was dispelled, and amid much laughter the men would crowd
around and squat on the ground tightly packed together. Imagine what a
picture that was. Splendid stalwart young men they were, hundreds and
hundreds of them, with healthy merry faces, and behind them in the
distance the green trees and the sunset. Of course smoking was allowed,
and I generally had some boxes of cigarettes to pass round. Then I would
tell them of our trip to Rome and of my following out the injunction of
making the most of a fortnight’s leave by turning it into three weeks; of my
puzzling the R.T.O. in Paris by asking for transportation to Rome via
Sports and Pastimes 225
good friend suggested to me on the quiet that I should try to get a Clino,
(that is a machine-gun side-car) from the Motor Machine-Gun Brigade.
With great trepidation, I made an excursion one day to their headquarters
at Verdrel. The O.C. was most kind and sympathetic. I shall never cease to
invoke blessings upon his head. He took me over to the machine-shop and
there presented to me, for my use until it should be recalled, a new Clino
which had just come up from the base. The officer in charge uttered a
protest by saying that they only had six Clinos for the Brigade, but the
major remarked dryly, “And after Canon Scott has got his we shall only
have five.” Surely once again the Lord had provided for me. I was driven
back to the Château in the new machine, but then had to find a driver. One
was provided by the signallers. He was a graduate in science of McGill, so
I used to lay stress upon my personal greatness from the fact that I had a
university graduate for my chauffeur. Many and varied were the drives
which Lyons and I had together, and many and varied were our adventures.
Had the Clino not been both exceedingly strong and very new it would have
come to grief long before it did. To go rattling down the St. Pol road at
forty-five kilometres an hour was a frequent occurrence. All I had to sit
upon was a seat without arms, while my foot rested on a bar in front.
People asked me how it was I did not tumble off. I told them that I tied
myself to the back of the seat with my spinal cord. I got the sappers to make
me a large box which fitted on the back of the vehicle and had a padlock.
In it I used to carry my bag of a thousand hymn books and other necessaries
for church parades, and on the top of the box, as a protection to my car, I
had the words “Canon Scott” painted in large white letters. The dust as we
threaded our way through the streams of lorries almost choked us, but we
could cover the ground in a short space of time which was a great thing.
Lyons never managed the lights very successfully, and one rainy night after
midnight, when I was returning from saying good-bye to the artillery who
were moving South, in a lonely part of the road he ran the machine into
some bushes on a bank by the wayside, and we found ourselves sitting in
the mud without our hats. We did not know where we were and the rain
was heavy, but we managed to disentangle the car and finally got home,
resolving that further night excursions were out of the question. About a
fortnight afterwards I received an order to return the Clino, but before I did
so I journeyed to Corps Headquarters and made a passionate appeal to
General Currie for its retention. As a result I received a private intimation
to keep the car and say nothing about it. Of course I was the envy of
everyone, and when they asked me how I got the Clino I said I did not
exactly know. Whether it was sent to me from heaven with the assistance
of General Currie, or whether it was sent to me from General Currie with
Sports and Pastimes 227
tea I heard him explaining to the other men that he had had his choice of
two machines, an old machine with a new engine and the other a new
machine with an old engine. Although I was engaged in conversation at the
other end of the table, I listened with great interest to this discussion, and
felt much relieved when I heard that Johnny’s choice of an old machine
with a new engine was approved of by his hearers. He told me that the air
was very bumpy and that he would not take me up until the sun was lower
in the sky. Having arrived at that happy state of inward peace which a man
experiences when he goes off to the dentist to have a tooth pulled, I did not
mind when I was to be taken up. At six o’clock, however, Johnny said we
must get ready, so I was provided with a fur-lined leather coat, leather
helmet, goggles and a large pair of fur gauntlets. We went over to the
aerodrome where our fiery steed was champing its bit as though longing to
spring into the “vast inane.” Two or three attendants were getting it ready.
It was an R.E.8 plane and a machine gun was fixed on one side. Johnny
climbed into his position and I took a seat behind him. An attendant came
up and asked my name and address. It sounded as if I were making my last
will and testament. I had a letter with me addressed to my son which I was
to drop over his battery lines in Liévin, and also a red smoke bomb but
declined an invitation to take any more formidable weapon. Then I told my
pilot not to be anxious about me whatever happened. I always expected to
be killed at the front so never worried how or when the event was to occur.
The engine was then started. For a time the machine meandered about the
field without showing any disposition to mount into the air and I was
beginning to think, like the Irishman who was taken for a ride one day in
a sedan chair that had no bottom in it, that, “If it were not for the honour
and glory of the thing I might as lief walk,” when, all of a sudden, we began
to plunge, left the ground, and, mid a fearful buzzing, mounted higher and
higher. We rose over the huts and above the village trees and then by a
corkscrew motion which necessitated the machine going almost on its edge,
we made our way heavenwards. I did not feel the least bit seasick but it was
a curious sensation to look down and see absolutely nothing between me
and the church of Izel-les-Hameaux crowned by its sharp pointed spire with
no cork on it. I looked at my young friend in front of me, who was busy
with the handles and cranks of his machine. He was only a boy of nineteen
and my fate was literally in his hands, but his head was well set on his
shoulders and he seemed completely self-possessed and confident. After we
had mounted to six thousand feet, we struck out in the direction of the
front.
It was a lovely afternoon and a most wonderful panorama spread below
us. The great plain beneath us was marked off like a chessboard in squares
Sports and Pastimes 229
of various shades of yellow and green, dotted here and there with little
villages surrounded by the billowy crests of trees. We saw straight white
roads going off in all directions, and beyond, towards the east, low murky
clouds behind the German lines. We flew on and on till we reached the war
zone and here the fields were marked by horse-tracks and the villages had
been hit with shells. Before us in the distance I saw the line of our
observation balloons and thought, if anything happened to the machine, I
would get out into one of them, but when we passed over them they looked
like specks on the ground below. I could see the blue ribbon of the Scarpe
winding off into the great mists to the east, and then beneath us lay the old
city of Arras. I could see the ruined Cathedral, the mass of crooked streets
and the tiny, dusty roads. Further on was the railway triangle, where one
night later on I got a good dose of gas, and then I saw the trenches at
Fampoux and Feuchy. Still onward we sailed, till at last Johnny Johnson
shouted back, at the same time pointing downwards, “The German
trenches.” I saw the enemy lines beneath us, and then Johnny shouted,
“Now I am going to dip.” It was not the thing I specially wanted to do at
that particular moment, but I supposed it was all right. The plane took a
dive, and then Johnny leaned over and fired off some rounds of the machine
gun into the German lines. We turned to come back and rose in the air,
when, in the roar of the wind I heard a bang behind me, and looking round
saw, hanging in the air, a ball of thick black smoke. Then there was another
beneath us and some more at one side. In all, the Germans followed us with
six shells. Johnny turned round and shouted, asking me how I felt.
“Splendid,” I said, for I really did enjoy the novelty of the experience.
Many times have I looked up into the clouds and seen a machine followed
by “Archies” and wondered what it felt like to be up there, and now I knew.
One phrase however, which I had often read in the newspapers kept ringing
in my ears–“Struck the petrol tank and the machine came down in flames.”
And the last verse of “Nearer my God to Thee,” also ran through my head,
“Or if on joyful wing upwards I fly.” We turned now to the right and flew
over Vimy Ridge, and then made two or three turns round Liévin where,
above his battery, I dropped the letter for my son. It was delivered to him
two weeks afterwards in a hospital in London. We flew out over Lens and
crossed the German lines again, skirting the district which the Germans had
flooded and then turned our faces homewards. Above the Château at Villers
Chatel, I dropped the red smoke bomb. We circled round in the air at a
great height while I wrote on a piece of paper, “Canon Scott drops his
blessing from the clouds on 1st Canadian Divisional Headquarters,” and put
it in the little pocket of leaded streamers. Alas, it was lost in a wheat field
and so did not do them any more good than the other blessings I have
230 Sports and Pastimes
dropped upon them. We then turned to Berles where I could see beneath me
the old house and the tiny beings in white playing tennis on the court. We
reached the aerodrome at Izel-les-Hameaux and landed safely after being
in the air for fifty-five minutes. It was a most delightful experience for a
non-combatant. The next day the engine of the machine gave out and
Johnny Johnson was compelled to make a forced landing. Luckily it was
behind our lines. I went several times again to try to have another flight, but
from the excuses made I inferred that joy-rides of this description had been
banned. The following year in London I heard by accident that poor Johnny
Johnson had been killed a few weeks after our trip. He was a splendid
young fellow and absolutely without fear. May his brave soul rest in peace.
Nearly two months had passed since we had been in the line, and the
Germans had made no attack. We wondered what had happened to them.
I thought that perhaps influenza had laid them low. At any rate we were not
anxious to end the happy time we were having. The climax of our glory was
reached on the 1st of July when we celebrated the birthday of the Dominion
by Corps sports on the field at Tincques. It was a most wonderful occasion.
Dominion Day fell on a Monday, and on the previous afternoon,
knowing that large bodies of men, including the contestants, were
congregated at Tincques, I determined to go over and pay them a visit. I
found the village full of troops and all very keen about the next day’s show.
In a little lane, were some 1st Division men, and they were enjoying the
excitement of a game which was very popular at the front, called “Crown
and Anchor.” It is played with special dice on a board or square of green
canvas. On the canvas were painted an anchor and crown and I think a heart
and spade. The game was banned by the army on account of its unfairness.
The banker had, I think, sixty-four chances to one in his favour. The
consequence of this was that very soon he became possessed of all the
money which green youths, unsuspecting their disadvantage, chose to lay
on the board. This game, in the hands of a sharper, was often the means of
robbing a battalion of very large sums of money; sometimes forty thousand
francs were made by the banker. The police had orders to arrest anyone
playing it and I used to do my best to stamp it out. Though I do not play for
money myself, I never could see any great harm in those poor boys out
there getting a little relaxation from their terrible nervous strain by a game
of bridge or poker for a few francs. But a game which was founded wholly
on dishonesty was something which I felt was unworthy of our men.
Whenever I saw them crowding round a little spot on the grass I knew there
was a game of crown and anchor going on, and I would shout, “Look out,
boys, I am going to put the horse on the old mud hook”–a phrase I had
heard the men use–and then canter Dandy into their midst scattering them
Sports and Pastimes 231
in all directions. Over and over again I have gone into a ring of men and
given the banker five minutes to decide whether he would hand over his
board and dice to me or have his name reported to the police. He never
failed to do the former, although sometimes he looked rather surly at losing
a very fruitful source of revenue. I have brought home with me enough
crown and anchor dice to make the mouth of an old soldier water. On this
occasion I became possessed of the crown and anchor board and the dice
in the usual way. But, as the men said they wanted to have some
amusement, I went to an officer’s billet and got a pack of cards for them,
and they settled down to a game of poker.
Some pious souls proposed that I should have a service that evening in
the field where the sports were to be held. I thought that it would be a good
idea, but was not sure how large a congregation I should have. I got
together a little body-guard in the village and we went off collecting
stragglers by the way. When we came to the corner of the field where I
proposed to hold my service, we found to my dismay that it was full of
masses of men crowding around what I knew were crown and anchor
boards on the ground. I did not mind doing police work in my own
Division, where I was known by the men, but I did not feel called upon to
act as A.P.M. for the Corps, so I had to start another line of campaign. I
marched on at the head of my congregation straight into the midst of the
gamblers. The men on the outskirts saw me coming and I could see them
warning the players. Those sitting on the ground stood up and wondered
what was going to happen. Looking very serious, I went right through the
crowd, without saying anything, to a distance on the other side, and then the
curiosity of the men was aroused and they all followed. When I stood still
I found myself surrounded by hundreds of men who were waiting to see
what I was going to do. Without a smile, I pulled out the crown and anchor
board from my pocket and, to the astonishment of all, laid it on the ground
and called out, in the gamblers’ language, “Who is for the old
sergeant-major?” Never before have I seen such an expression of surprise
on people’s faces. Among the crowd were some Imperial soldiers and they
could not make out what sort of padré I was. For a moment, in spite of the
grinning countenances of the 1st Division men, there was a pause of silent
horror. Then they all burst into a roar of laughter, and I told them I had
come out there that evening, as it was Sunday, to hold a service and did not
know what text to take for a sermon. Now they had given me one. I held up
the crown and anchor board and said I was going to preach about that, and
I delivered a discourse on honesty. When it was over, they asked me to give
my lecture on our leave trip to Rome. I thought it might be a good diversion
for the time. My side-car was brought up, and sitting on it, in the midst of
232 Sports and Pastimes
the men, who crowded about me on the ground, I gave them a long talk
which lasted until it was too dark for any more crown and anchor.
The next day brought us glorious weather, and from early in the
morning battalions were pouring into Tincques. The grounds were
splendidly laid out and bordered with many stands and marquees. There
must have been nearly forty-thousand spectators present. The Duke of
Connaught, Sir Robert Borden, and all sorts of great people attended, and
the playing of “O Canada” by the massed bands was something which, as
a British General told me, made a big lump come in one’s throat. It was the
last Dominion Day we were to spend in France. We were on the eve of
tremendous events, and it was a splendid manifestation of Canada’s glory
at the front. There was such a gathering of old friends who had not met for
years, that one really could not attend to the various events and sports that
were taking place. We met for a moment, and the old days would be talked
over, and then we parted, some, alas, never to meet again in this world.
That vast crowd which fringed the huge expanse of ground was quite the
most thrilling spectacle that Canadians had ever seen. Tincques must be a
quiet place now, and perhaps only a few marks in the great field still remain
to show where the sports were held. But there were gathered there that day
the vast host of noble gentlemen who saved the honour and freedom of our
young country.
233
looked like. I was told that Montreuil was a very picturesque old walled
city, but that we should not be allowed to enter. However, I had been able
to do so many forbidden things in the war that I thought it would be worth
trying, so the old Clino sped over the hard macadamized roads from
Boulogne till we came to the valley on the opposite side of which the town
is situated. We saw many cars coming and going, and many troops by the
way, and finally we sped up the hill which leads to the entrance gate. A
sentry was standing there, who saluted most properly, and we passed into
the sacred city without molestation. It was a delightful old French town,
full of historical interest. The narrow streets and quaint old buildings
carried one back in thought to the days of chivalry and battles waged by
knights in shining armour. We saw some of the churches, and then went to
the officers’ club for tea. The waitresses at the club were English girls who
had taken the place of the men needed at the front. I got them to provide for
my friend Lyons in their sitting-room, and I went in to have tea with the
officers. A great many were there sitting at small tables. It was interesting
to see the badges of so many different regiments. Most of the officers had
a good supply of ribbons, and a few of them had lost an eye or a limb, or
bore other marks of wounds. I think that almost all of them were staff
officers and that some of them were generals. It struck me that the
atmosphere to a stranger was rather chilly. The demeanour of the people
was much less free than that which we had been accustomed to at the front.
Of course Montreuil held the brains of the army, and it was quite right that
the directing intelligences there should feel the loftiness of their position.
I made up two lines as I was having tea, which I thought hit off the mental
attitude of some of the officers present, when they saw a stranger and
looked him up and down through their monocles,
patience to wait till the end. However, after a few days my throat got better,
and my friends were once again forced to lend me their ears.
The railway triangle was a well-known place, and any men who may
have lived in some of the dugouts along the banks are not likely to forget
it. In the valley there was a large artificial lake in which I had some of the
most pleasant swims I have ever enjoyed, although the waters were
sometimes stirred up by the advent of a shell.
It was part of our strategy to let our men get the impression that we
were going to stay in the trenches before Arras for a long time. We had
several raiding parties with a view to finding out the position and strength
of the enemy, and our C.C.S.’s were well equipped and looked as if they
were going to remain there forever. Our Corps Headquarters, too, were not
far from Etrun, and the concentration of Canadians in the neighbourhood
gave us the impression that we had found a more than temporary resting
place. An American Chaplain was sent up to stay with me for a visit in
order to see what conditions were like at the front. He was a Lutheran,
although not of German extraction. I took him up to Arras one night, where
we had dinner with the engineers, and afterwards saw the 10th Battalion
start off for the trenches. He was much impressed with the spirit and
appearance of the men. It was late when we got back to my quarters, and to
my surprise on the next morning an order came through that the American
Chaplain had to return immediately. Neither he nor I could understand it.
I began to think he must have got into some scrape, as no explanation was
given. The real reason came out afterwards.
On August 1st our Division suddenly packed up and started once more
for Le Cauroy. We knew now that big things were in store for us and that
the Canadian Corps were going to attack. We heard rumours of the
preparations the French and Americans had made in the South, and we felt
that at last the Allies were going to get the initiative into their hands.
Whither we were going, however, we did not know, but we all devoutly
hoped that it would not be the Salient. The secret of our destination was
kept most profoundly. We were told that everything depended upon our
holding our tongues and exciting as little curiosity as possible among the
inhabitants. Once again, as before Vimy, but to even a greater extent, we
felt the electric thrill which kindles the imagination of an army going into
battle. The rapid move which the Canadian Corps now made was the most
sporting thing we ever did, and it appealed strongly to the hearts of young
men who were keen on games and had been inured to a hardy life in
Canada. Swiftly and secretly the battalions entrained at various points and
left for parts unknown. I went in my side-car to the machine-gun
headquarters at Liencourt, and on the next day to the Curé’s house at Le
The Beginning of the End 237
Cauroy. I found out from Headquarters that our Division was going south
within a day or so, but that I was not to tell the men. The brigades were
billeted in the neighbouring villages, but were soon to move. I was only one
day at Le Cauroy, and on the 3rd of August, after a rainy morning, started
off in my side-car for Hornoy, a little village not far from Amiens. We left
Le Cauroy in the afternoon, and soon the sun came out making the freshly
washed country more beautiful than ever. It was very interesting finding
our way by the map, and as we neared our destination I met many friends
in the other divisions who were stationed in the villages through which we
passed. By the time we reached Hornoy, the sun had set. My billet was to
be with the Curé. I went over to the neat white Presbytère which was
approached by a large gate leading into the garden. The old man came to
meet me at the door of his house, and put me through a lot of questions in
what I thought was a needlessly gruff manner. I found out afterwards that
he was very kind, and that his gruffness was only assumed. He gave me a
room upstairs comfortably furnished, and invited me to come into his office
whenever I pleased. The church, which could be entered from the garden,
was in good order, and parts of it were very old. The day after we arrived
at Hornoy was Sunday, August 4th. It was the fourth anniversary of our
declaration of war, and I had hoped to hold a big service for the men.
Unfortunately, we were all scattered and, as our hymn books did not turn
up, having been confiscated as a reprisal by some of the crown and anchor
men, my plans were frustrated. In the afternoon I went by side-car to
Amiens and found the city looking very different from its appearance on
my last visit. The streets were absolutely deserted. Many of the houses had
been damaged by shells. The Cathedral roof itself had been pierced in some
places and the noble interior looked very dreary, the floor of the nave being
covered with bits of broken stone and glass. It was sad to think that it might
share the fate of Rheims. Some Canadians were wandering about the streets
rather disconsolately. The empty city gave one a terrible sense of
loneliness. On the following evening about midnight the 16th Battalion and
the 3rd Battalion of Engineers passed through Hornoy in trains, going
forward.
Our own orders to move came two days later, on August 7th, and I left
for St. Feuchien. I went off in my side-car to the quaint old village. It is
situated on the top of a low hill, and consists of a few streets and some
large buildings standing in their own grounds. One of these was the country
home of the Archbishop of Amiens, and this was to be our billet. I entered
the grounds by a broken-down gate and drew up in front of a large brick
building, one wing of which was a chapel and kept locked up. In front of
the building was a well full of empty tins and other refuse. The interior of
238 The Beginning of the End
the place had once been quite fine, but was now absolutely filthy, having
been used as billets. The billiard tables, however, could still be used. The
room assigned to me was on the ground floor at the back. The dirt on the
floor was thick, and a sofa and two red plush chairs were covered with dust.
A bed in the corner did not look inviting, and through the broken windows
innumerable swarms of blue-bottle flies came from the rubbish heaps in the
yard. The weather was very hot and there was apparently no water for
washing. I made an inspection of the building upstairs, but all the rooms
had been assigned to different officers. The Archbishop’s room was very
large with a huge bed in it, but wore an air of soiled magnificence.
Everybody was in a great rush and, although I did not know when our
attack was to take place, I felt that it might happen at any moment; and so,
not worrying about my billet, I started off in my side-car to see General
Thacker at Château Longeau. I found, as I passed through Boves and other
villages, that the whole Canadian Corps was concentrated in the
neighbourhood. The dusty roads were crowded with lorries, tanks, whippets
and limbers, besides numbers of men. When I got to Château Longeau I
found, to my surprise, that the General had gone to Battle Headquarters in
Gentelles Wood, and an officer whom I met on the road told me that zero
hour was on the following morning. I determined therefore not to return to
the archiepiscopal palace at St. Feuchien, but to go off to the attack. I
returned to Boves, where, having washed and shaved, I had dinner in a
damaged house with some officers of a light trench mortar battery, and
after dinner started on my way to Gentelles Wood. It was a time of intense
excitement. Less than a week ago we had been in the line at Arras, and now
we were about to make our great attack at Amiens. The warm summer
evening was well-advanced when I reached our Battle Headquarters behind
the wood. All the staff officers were so busy that to ask one a question was
like putting a spark to a powder magazine, so I kept out of their way and
journeyed up the road to the barrier beyond which no vehicle was allowed
to pass. I said good-bye to Lyons and then started off to find the trenches
from which the 16th Battalion was going to lead the charge.
239
was incorrect, or that I was more than usually stupid, I do not know. I
wandered up and down for a long time, tripping over bits of wire and
slipping into holes, before I was able to get to the top of the hill and look
over in the direction of the German lines. At last I found a track which had
evidently been used by men going up to the front. I went along it for a
considerable distance and found myself on what appeared to be a plateau,
but as far as I could see, no object stood out against the starry sky-line.
Shells were falling in the fields to the left, and at different points on the
eastern horizon the bright light of a German flare would tell us the position
of the enemy’s lines. I went on for some distance, straining my eyes in the
darkness to see if I could discover any trees. I thought I had lost my way
again. Suddenly the dim figure of a man approached, and when he came up
to me, I found he belonged to one of the Imperial Battalions from whom we
were taking over the line. He asked me the way to the quarry, and I was
able to tell him. Then he gave me the direction I had to take to reach my
destination. I resumed my walk along the narrow path and at last, to my
great delight, I saw a black object in the distance. When I came up to it I
found it was the group of trees for which I had been looking. The trees were
growing out of a curious round hole in the ground. Here, a signaller of the
16th Battalion happened to turn up and acted as my guide. He led me down
a path to the bottom of the hole where were several dugouts. In one of these
I found more men of the Battalion. They were intensely keen over the
prospect of a great victory on the morrow. I was told that the battalion and
the companies which were going over in the first wave were in advanced
trenches to the left. So, after bidding the men good-bye and good luck, I
started off. At last I reached the trench, and getting down into it found the
Headquarters of the Battalion had arrived there not long before. On asking
where the Colonel was, I was taken to a place where a piece of canvas hung
down the side of the trench. When this was lifted, I looked down into a
little hole in the ground and there saw the C.O., the Adjutant and another
officer studying a map by the light of a candle. The place was so tiny that
I had to crawl in backwards, and finding that there was no room for a
visitor, I soon took my departure. The Colonel ordered me to stay in the
trench, but I had made up my mind to go forward and see the companies
which were going over in the first wave. They lay along the side of a road
some distance down the slope in front of us. In making my way there I
passed a trench where the 5th Battalion was waiting to follow up the
advance. A German machine-gun was playing freely upon the spot, but no
one got hit. When I came to the advanced companies of the 16th Battalion,
I passed along their line and gave them my blessing. It was splendid to meet
and shake hands with those gallant lads, so soon to make the attack. They
The Battle of Amiens 241
knew we had taken them by surprise and the day was ours.
A strange sound behind us made us look around, and we saw the
advancing tanks creeping down the slope like huge grey beetles. Our men
were just in time to divert the course of one which threatened to cut our
telephone wires. Then the 5th Battalion got out of their trenches, and the
stretcher-bearers and I went off with them down the slope. The wood
through which the German lines ran was called Hangard Wood and lay on
the opposite side of the valley. Here and there lying in the ripe grain which
covered the fields were bodies of the wounded and dead of the 13th and 16th
Battalions. The stretcher-bearers set to work to carry off those who had
been hit. A sergeant followed me and we skirted the wood looking for
wounded, while he was able to become possessor of a machine-gun and
several German revolvers. The wheat had been trampled down by the men
in their charge, but was still high enough in places to conceal a prostrate
form. By this time the attack had passed through the wood and the enemy
were running before it. The German artillery now concentrated their fire on
the valley, which soon, in the still morning air, became thick with smoke.
It was impossible to see more than a few yards in front of one. We heard
the crash of shells around us, but could not see where they burst. The sun
had not risen and we soon lost our way in the mist. We could not tell from
the direction of the sound which was the German barrage and which was
ours.
I was going on ahead when I came to a large shell-hole that had been
made in some previous battle. At the bottom of it lay three apparently dead
Huns. I was looking down at them wondering how they had been killed, as
they were not messed about. I thought that they must have died of
shell-shock, until one of them moved his hand. At once I shouted,
“Kamarad,” and to my intense amusement the three men lying on their
backs put up their hands and said, “Kamarad! mercy! mercy!” It was most
humorous to think that three human beings should appeal to me to spare
their lives. I told them in my best French to get up and follow me, and I
called out to the sergeant, “Sergeant, I have got three prisoners.” My desire
to take a prisoner had been a standing joke among our men. Whenever they
were going into action I used to offer them $25.00 to bring out a little
German whom I might capture all by myself. I used to tell them not to bring
out a big one, as it might look boastful for a chaplain. Here were three
ready to hand for which I had to pay nothing. We moved on through the
smoke, a most comical procession. The sergeant went ahead and I brought
up the rear. Between us went the three terror-stricken prisoners, crouching
every now and then when shells fell near us. At last we stumbled on a
company of the 2nd Battalion coming forward, and I called out to them,
The Battle of Amiens 243
village of Rosières, through which the road ran parallel to the trenches
which we held. Between us and the village was a slight dip in the ground,
and with glasses we could see lorries full of fresh German troops, amid
clouds of dust, making their way to a point in the village. There they would
stop and the men would get out and hurry down the fields into the trenches.
It looked as if they were going to make a counter-attack. The situation was
very disquieting. I was told by one of the sergeants in our front line that we
were in need of fresh ammunition, and he asked me if I would let the
Colonel know. I passed through the trenches on my return and told the men
how glorious it was to think that we had pushed the Germans back and
were now so many miles from where we had started. I went back to
Battalion Headquarters and found that they were in a cottage on the eastern
extremity of the village. Across the road was a cavalry observation-post,
where some officers were watching Rosières and the arrival of German
troops. Luckily for us the Germans had no guns to turn upon us, although
the village of Caix was shelled constantly all night. Later on, some batteries
of the Royal Horse Artillery and our field guns, which had come up, sealed
the fate of the Germans and prevented a counter-attack. A glorious sunset
over the newly conquered territory made a fitting close to a day of great
deeds and high significance. When darkness fell and the stars looked out
of the quiet sky, I said good-night to my cavalry friends, whose billets were
down in a hollow to the right, and started off to find some place to sleep.
The cellars of the cottage occupied by the Colonel were crowded, so I
went to the village and seeing some men entering a gateway followed them.
It was the courtyard of a large building, presumably a brewery. The runners
of the battalion had found a deep cellar where they had taken up their
abode. I asked if I might sleep with them for the night. The cellar was not
particularly inviting, but it was well below the ground and vaulted in brick.
The floor was simply earth and very damp. Two candles were burning in
a box where a corporal was making out the ration-list for the men. I got two
empty sandbags to put on the floor to keep me from getting rheumatism,
and lying on them and using my steel helmet as a pillow I prepared to sleep.
The runners, except those on duty, did the same. Our feet met in the centre
of the room and our bodies branched off like the spokes of a wheel. When
anyone turned and put his feet on one side we all had to turn and put our
feet in the same direction. We heard a good many shells bursting in the
Square that night, but we were safe and comparatively comfortable. Before
I got to sleep, I watched with great admiration the two young non-coms
who were sitting at the table arranging and discussing in a low tone the
duties of the various men for the following day. The two lads could not
have been more than twenty years of age, but their sense of responsibility
246 The Battle of Amiens
and justice was well-developed. I thought what a fine thing it was that men
were being trained like that to become useful citizens of Canada. We were
up early in the morning and I made my way to Battalion Headquarters,
where I heard that there was to be another attack in the forenoon.
We were now to change places with the 2nd Division. They were to shift
from our right flank to our left and take over the attack on Rosières while
we advanced towards Warvillers. From the cavalry observation-post, I
could see with a glass the 5th Battalion going up to the front in single file
along a hedge. I had breakfast with the 7th Battalion officers in their dugout
by the roadside near the cavalry billets, and then started off to join the 8th
Battalion which was going to attack that morning. Machine-guns from
Rosières were playing on the road near the end of the wood. I determined
therefore not to go round the wood but through it and so reached the other
side in safety. I was sitting on a fallen tree eating some lunch and
wondering whether I should be able to get up in time for the attack, when,
to my great joy, over the hill to my right, I saw some troops approaching in
extended order. Hardly had they appeared on the crest when the Germans
at Rosières opened fire upon them and shells fell on the hill. The men kept
very steady and nobody, as far as I could see, was hit. When they got down
to the wood I went forward and spoke to them and found they were the 22nd
Battalion, and I met several Quebecers whom I knew.
I saw the Battalion go off in the direction of Rosières and I renewed my
journey to our own line. I passed the 24th Battalion who were going up on
the left of the 22nd , and they told me that the 2nd Brigade were on their right.
There were many trenches along the way which the Germans had
abandoned on the previous day. I passed a poor horse which was badly
wounded and still alive. It was attached to a broken German cart. I got one
of our men to shoot the animal, and went on till I came to a railway in the
hollow and followed it. There were many wooden buildings here and there
which had been built by the Germans. These structures had been badly
knocked about by shrapnel, and the litter of articles within showed how
rapid the German flight had been. At a little distance on the east side of the
track, there was a green wood, which was called, as I afterwards found out,
Beaufort or Hatchet Wood. Every now and then as I walked, little puffs of
dust would rise from the road in front of me, showing that machine-gun
bullets were falling about. A cavalry patrol of three men, returning down
the track from the direction of the wood, came towards me, and, taking me
for a combatant officer, the corporal saluted and said, “That wood is very
heavily held by machine-guns, Sir, we have just made a reconnaissance.”
“That’s all right,” I said, “I do not intend to take it just yet.” I was going up
the track, wondering where I had got to, when I saw a young officer of the
The Battle of Amiens 247
8th Battalion, followed by his men, coming towards me. I went to him and
told him that I had heard the wood was very heavily held by machine-guns.
He said he knew it and was going to attack from the side, so I went with
them and, as they lay on the ground and got their Lewis guns in position,
I pronounced the benediction over them and then continued my journey up
the railroad. On the west side of the track at the top of the bank was a
hedge. Here I found the 14th Battalion waiting to follow up the 8th. A young
officer of the latter battalion was lying on the ground dying. He dictated a
farewell letter to his wife, which I afterwards gave to the Adjutant. On the
slope of ground down which the 8th had charged towards the railway I saw
many bodies of dead and wounded men, so I went up to them to see what
I could do. Several were dying, and I found one poor fellow who had never
been baptised; so I took some water from my bottle and baptised him as he
lay there. They would be carried off when the stretcher-bearers could begin
their work.
While I was attending to the wounded, I looked towards the wood at the
other side of the track. I was on a higher level, and so had a view of the
open country beyond, and there, to my astonishment, I saw the Germans
leaving their ambush and running away. I hurried down the hill to the hedge
and shouted out to the 14th Battalion that the Germans were running away,
and an officer came up to make sure. Then orders were given to the men to
charge and they crossed the track and took possession of the wood. As soon
as I had seen the wounded carried off I followed after the troops, and there
once more had the joy of advancing over newly-won territory.
At a farmhouse a number of our men were gathered for a temporary
rest, and there I learned that the colonel of the 8th Battalion and a large
number of officers and men had been killed that morning. The battalion had
to charge down the hill in the face of heavy machine-gun fire. Some tanks
were standing by the farm and one of the officers offered to take me with
him in the machine, but as it was to go into the 2nd Divisional area I had to
decline the invitation and follow up our men on foot. I passed a number of
German wounded. One of them, a young lad, was terribly alarmed when he
saw me approaching, thinking I was going to murder him. He held up his
hands and shouted, “Kamarad!” I think the Germans had heard wild stories
of the ferocity of Canadians. The boy then began to implore me to send him
to an ambulance. He was wounded in the leg, and had bound up his wounds
very neatly and skilfully. I tried to make him understand that the
stretcher-bearers would come up in time, and I stuck his rifle in the ground
with his helmet on the top of it, as a signal to the bearer party.
Before me at the end of the road, I saw amid trees the village of
Warvillers. Many men were going towards it from all directions; and I saw
248 The Battle of Amiens
our artillery brigades taking up battery positions to the left. I met two men
of the 5th Battalion and we started off to the village together. The place was
now in our hands, as the Germans had evacuated it some hours before. The
houses were quite intact and offered prospects of pleasant billets. My
companions and I, finding it was quite late in the afternoon, determined to
go and have our meal in a garden near the Château. We sat down on the
grass and opened our bully-beef tins, and seeing onions growing in the
garden thought it would be a good thing to have that savoury vegetable as
a relish. It added to the enjoyment of our simple meal to think that we were
eating something which the Germans had intended for themselves. We
managed to get some fresh water too from a well nearby, which looked
quite clean. On the other side of a wall we could see the roof of the
Château. One of the men thought he would like to go and explore and find
out who was there. He came back a few minutes afterwards and said it was
full of Germans. So, taking their rifles, the two men went off to attack it,
thinking they had found a stronghold of the enemy. I was just having a
smoke after my meal when the lads came back and said that the Germans
whom they had seen were our prisoners and that the Château had been
taken over by us as a dressing station. We made our way to it and found
that it was a very beautiful place situated in lovely grounds. A card on a
door upstairs bore the inscription, “His Excellency General,” and then
followed a German name. The place had been the headquarters of some
enemy corps or division on the previous day. At the back of the Château
was a very strong concrete dugout divided off into rooms, which were soon
filled by our officers and men. All that night the wounded were being
brought to the Château, and German prisoners also found their way there.
Nobody was paying much attention to the latter, and, thinking it was
unwise to let them wander about, and perhaps go back to their lines with
information about our location, with the permission of the C.O. of the
ambulance, who was up to his eyes in work, I had them all put into one
large room over which I placed a guard. They were sent back to the corps
cage in the morning. The Germans evidently expected that we would use
the Château because they dropped some heavy shells in the garden during
the night, and we had to get the wounded down in to the cellars in quick
time.
I had about three hours sleep that night, and in the morning I
determined to follow up our men of the 1st Brigade who had now
established themselves at a village ahead of us called Rouvroy. As I was
starting off, a signaller came up to me and told me he had captured a stray
horse with a saddle on it and that he would lend it to me to take me to my
destination. I mounted the animal and went down the avenue in great pride
The Battle of Amiens 249
and comfort, but after I got into the road a man came up and stopped me
and told me, to my horror, that I was riding his horse which he had lost the
night before. It requires great strength of mind and self-mastery to give up
a mount to a pedestrian when you are once in the saddle. But the war had
not entirely extinguished the light of conscience in my soul, so, tired as I
was, I dismounted and gave up the steed. But as I saw the man ride back to
the Château I began to wonder within myself whether he was the real owner
or not. One thief does not like to be out-witted by another. However, there
was nothing to do now but to go straight ahead. The road before me led
directly to Rouvroy. Some German planes were hovering overhead, and in
the fields to my left our artillery were going into action. As shells were
dropping on the road I took a short cut over the fields. Here I found some
of our machine-gunners, and the body of a poor fellow who had just been
killed. I got to the village of Rouvroy about noon and made my way to a
dugout under the main road, where the colonel and some of the officers of
the 3rd Battalion were having lunch. They gave me a cup of tea, but I told
them I had taken my food on the journey, so did not want anything to eat.
They looked much relieved at this, because rations were short. Their
chaplain was there and gave me a warm reception. I was feeling rather used
up, so lay down on a wire mattress and had an hour’s sleep. When lunch
was over the chaplain and I went to see the sights of the town. The ruined
church was being used for a dressing station and it seemed to me it was
rather a dangerous place, as the Germans would be likely to shell it. We
found an old bookshop which was filled with German literature and writing
paper, some of which proved very useful.
We had a good rest in a dugout, but I felt so seedy that I told him, if he
heard that I had gone out of the line, not to think it was because I was
suffering from “cold feet.” We went back to the village, and there we found
shells dropping in the main street not far from the church. In fact, one came
so close that we had to dive into a cellar and wait till the “straffing” was
over. Then I bid my companion good-bye and started off over the fields
back to Warvillers. By this time I felt so unwell that it was hard to resist the
temptation to crawl into some little hole in which I might die quietly.
However, with my usual luck, I found a motor car waiting near the road for
an air-officer who had gone off on a tour of inspection and was expected
to return soon. The driver said I could get in and rest. When the officer
came back he kindly consented to give me a ride to my Divisional
Headquarters. We did not know where they were and I landed in the wrong
place, but finally with the assistance of another car I made my way to
Beaufort. There I found our Division had established themselves in huts
and dugouts at the back of an ancient château. With great difficulty I made
250 The Battle of Amiens
my way over to General Thacker’s mess and asked for some dinner.
During the meal, the General sent off his A.D.C. on a message, and he
soon returned with no less a person than the A.D.M.S., who, to my dismay,
proceeded to feel my pulse and put a clinical thermometer in my mouth. My
temperature being 103½, he ordered me at once to go off to a rest camp,
under threat of all sorts of penalties if I did not. I lay on the floor of his
office till three in the morning, when an ambulance arrived and took me off
to some place in a field, where they were collecting casualties. From thence
I was despatched to the large asylum at Amiens which was operated by an
Imperial C.C.S. The major who examined me ordered me to go to the Base
by the next train, as they had no time to attend to cases of influenza. For a
while I was left on the stretcher in a ward among wounded heroes. I felt
myself out of place, but could do nothing to mend matters. Two sisters
came over to me, and apparently took great interest in me till one of them
looked at the tag which was pinned on my shoulder. With a look of disgust
she turned and said to her companion, “He isn’t wounded at all, he has only
got the ‘flu’.” At once they lost all interest in me, and went off leaving me
to my fate. Stung by this humiliation, I called two orderlies and asked them
to carry me out into the garden and hide me under the bushes. This they
did, and there I found many friends who had been wounded lying about the
place. My batman had come with me and had brought my kit, so a box of
good cigars which I handed round was most acceptable to the poor chaps
who were waiting to be sent off. By a stroke of good luck, an accident on
the railway prevented my being evacuated that evening. I knew that if they
once got me down to the Base my war days would be over.
On the following morning, feeling better, I got up, shaved, put on my
best tunic, and, with a cigar in my mouth, wandered into the reception
room, where I found the major who had ordered me off on the previous day.
Puffing the smoke in front of my face to conceal my paleness, I asked him
when he was going to send me down to the Base. He looked a little
surprised at finding me recovered, and then said, “Well, Padré, I think I will
let you go back to your lines after all.” It was a great relief to me. The
chaplain of the hospital very kindly took me in charge and allowed me to
spend the night in his room. The next day I got a ride in a Canadian
ambulance and made my way back to Beaufort. There, to my horror, I
found that the Division, thinking they had got rid of me for good, had
appointed another padré in my place. Through the glass door of my room,
I could see him giving instructions to the chaplain of the artillery. I felt like
Enoch Arden, but I had not Enoch’s unselfishness so, throwing the door
wide open, I strode into the room, and to the ill-concealed consternation of
both my friends who had looked upon me in a military sense as dead,
The Battle of Amiens 251
informed them that I had come back to take over my duties. Of course,
everyone said they were glad to see me, except General Thacker, who
remarked dryly that my return had upset all the cherished plans of
well-ordered minds. The A.D.M.S. had told them that he had thought I was
in for an attack of pneumonia. It was really a very amusing situation, but I
was determined to avoid the Base, especially now that we felt the great and
glorious end of our long campaign was coming nearer every day.
252
n Friday the 16th of August our Division left Beaufort and moved back
O to billets at Le Quesnel. Here there was a good sized château which
was at once used for office purposes. The General and his staff made their
billets in a deep cave which was entered from the road. It was of
considerable extent, lit by electric light, and rooms opened out on both
sides of the central passage. I had one assigned to me, but as I did not feel
well enough to stand the dampness I gave it to the clerks of the A.D.M.S.,
and made my home with the veterinary officer in the cellar of the
school-house which stood beside the church. The latter, which had been
used by the Germans as a C.C.S., was a modern building and of good
proportions. The spire had been used as an observation-post. One or two
shells had hit the building and the interior, though still intact, was in great
disorder. The altar ornaments, vestments, and prayer books were thrown
about in confusion. The school-house where I was lodged must have been
also the Curé’s residence. A good-sized room downstairs served as a chapel
for my Sunday services. The cellar, where the A.D.V.S. and I slept was
quite comfortable, though by no means shell-proof. As the only alternative
abode was the cave, he and I, deciding we would rather die of a shell than
of rheumatism, chose the cellar. The Corps ambulances were all together
in a valley not far away, and in trenches to the east, near the cemetery
where the 8th Battalion officers and men had been buried, there were some
reserves of the 3rd Brigade.
We Return to Arras 253
Things were quiet now in the front line, so I determined to make a trip
to Albert to see my son’s grave. It was a long and dusty journey and the
roads were rough. We passed back through the district over which we had
advanced, and saw everywhere gruesome traces of the fighting. When we
came to Albert, however, we found it was still in the possession of the
enemy. The Americans were holding the line, and an American sentry
stopped us at a barrier in the road and said that no motorcycles were
allowed to go any further in that direction. It was strange to hear the
American accent again, and I told the lad that we were Canadians. “Well,”
he said, with a drawl, “that’s good enough for me.” We shook hands and
had a short talk about the peaceful continent that lay across the ocean.
There was nothing for us to do then but to return.
On the following Sunday, the Germans having evacuated Albert a day
and a half before, I once more paid a visit to the old town. I left my side-car
on the outskirts of the place and was taken by Mr. Bean, the Australian War
Correspondent, into his car. He was going up to take some photographs.
The day was intensely hot, and the dust of the now ruined town was
literally ankle-deep and so finely powdered that it splattered when one
walked as though it had been water. I saw the ruins of the school-house
which our ambulances had used, and noticed that the image of the Virgin
had been knocked down from the tower of the Cathedral. I passed the house
where our Headquarters had been. The building was still standing but the
front wall had gone, leaving the interior exposed. I made my way up the
Bapaume road to Tara Hill, and there to my great delight I found the little
cemetery still intact. Shells had fallen in it and some of the crosses had
been broken, but the place had been wonderfully preserved. A battery on
one side of it had just ceased firing and was to advance on the following
day. While I was putting up some of the crosses that had fallen, Mr. Bean
came up in his car and kindly took a photograph of my son’s grave. He also
took a photograph of the large Australian cross which stands at one corner
of the cemetery. Tara Hill had been for six months between the German
front and reserve lines, and I never expected that any trace of the cemetery
would have been found. I shall probably never see the place again, but it
stands out in my memory now as clear and distinct as though once more I
stood above the dusty road and saw before me the rows of little crosses, and
behind them the waste land battered by war and burnt beneath the hot
August sun. Over that very ground my son and I had ridden together, and
within a stone’s throw from it two years before we had said good-bye to
one another for the last time.
Our Division had now come out of the line and were hurrying north. On
August 26th Lyons and I started off in the car, and after a tedious and dusty
254 We Return to Arras
intensely loyal to France and very kind to all of us. When the Germans
occupied Arras in the beginning of the war, the Crown Prince paid an
official visit to the Asylum, and, when leaving, congratulated the Mother
Superior on her management of the institution. She took his praises with
becoming dignity, but when he held out his hand to her she excused herself
from taking it and put hers behind her back.
The dressing station was excellently run and the system carried out was
perfect. The wounded were brought in, attended to, and sent off to the
C.C.S. with the least possible delay. The dead were buried in the large
military cemetery near the Dainville road where rest the bodies of many
noble comrades, both British and Canadian. A ward was set apart for
wounded Germans and it was looked after by their own doctors and
orderlies.
Meanwhile our Division was preparing for the great attack upon the
Drocourt-Quéant line. The 2nd Division were in the trenches and had taken
Monchy. We were to relieve them and push on to the Canal du Nord and,
if possible, beyond it. Movements were now very rapid. All the staff were
kept intensely busy. The old days of St. Jans Cappel and Ploegsteert, with
their quiet country life, seemed very far away. This was real war, and we
were advancing daily. We heard too of the victories of the French and
Americans to the South. It was glorious to think that after the bitter
experience of the previous March the tables had been turned, and we had
got the initiative once more. Our Battle Headquarters, where the General
and his staff were, lay beyond Neuville Vitasse. They were in a deep, wide
trench, on each side of which were dugouts and little huts well sandbagged.
Over the top was spread a quantity of camouflage netting, so that the place
was invisible to German aeroplanes. The country round about was cut up
by trenches, and in many of these our battalions were stationed. All the
villages in the neighbourhood were hopeless ruins. I tried to get a billet in
the forward area, as Arras was so far back, but every available place was
crowded and it was so difficult to get up rations that nobody was anxious
to have me.
256
thought now that there might be some reason for the alarm. As I have said
on a former occasion, I had a great objection to being bombed in a dugout,
so I said to the men, “Well, boys, perhaps we had better take it seriously
and go up and see what the matter is.” We climbed up to the trench, and
there on looking over the parapet we saw an exciting scene. It was not yet
dark, and in the twilight we could see objects at a certain distance, but it
was just light enough and dark enough to confuse one’s vision. Along the
line to the right of our front trenches, rockets and S.O.S. signals were going
up, showing that the Germans were attacking. Our reserve battalions were
far back at Cherisy, and our artillery had not yet come up. At any rate,
somewhere in the glimmering darkness in front of us the Germans were
advancing. They actually did get between us and our front line. The
machine-gunners at once went to their posts, and the M.O. wanted orders
as to what he and his staff were to do. I went back down the trenches past
the dead Germans to Battalion Headquarters, and asked the Adjutant what
orders he had for the M.O. He said we were all to congregate at
Headquarters; so I went back and gave the message. I remember looking
over the waste of ground and wondering if I could see the Germans. For a
time it was really very exciting, especially for me, because I did not know
exactly what I should do if the Germans came. I could not fight, nor could
I run away, and to fold one’s arms and be taken captive seemed too idiotic.
All the time I kept saying to myself, “I am an old fool to be out here.” Still,
we got as much fun out of the situation as we could, and, to our intense
relief, the arrival of some of our shells and the sudden appearance of a
Highland Battalion of the 4th Division on our left, frightened the Germans
and they retired, leaving us to settle down once more in our trench home.
On the return of the Colonel, we learned that, on account of the heavy
losses which the 5th Battalion had suffered that day, the 7th Battalion would
attack on the following morning. Later on in the evening, I saw some
machine-gunners coming up, who told us that they had left some wounded
and a dead man in a trench near the road. I determined to go back and see
them. The trench was very crowded, and as it was dark it was hard to find
one’s way. I nearly stepped on a man who appeared to be sleeping, leaning
against the parapet. I said to one of the men, “Is this a sleeping hero?” “No,
Sir,” he replied, “It’s a Hun stiff.” When I got down to the road, I met two
men and we hunted for the place where the wounded had been left, but
found they had been carried off to Cherisy. So I started back again for
Battalion Headquarters, and as numbers of men were going forward I had
no difficulty in finding it.
The dugout was now absolutely crowded. Every available space,
including the steps down from the opening, was filled with men. I managed
The Smashing of the Drocourt-Quéant Line 259
to secure a little shelf in the small hours of the morning, and had two or
three hours sleep. The atmosphere was so thick that I think we were all
overcome by it and sank into profound slumber. At last, one of the men
suddenly woke up and said to me, “It’s ten minutes to five, Sir.” The
barrage was going to start at five. As far as I could see, everyone in the
dugout but ourselves, was sound asleep. I climbed up the steps, waking the
men on them and telling them that the barrage would start in ten minutes.
The sentries in the trench said that the 7th Battalion had gone forward
during the night with a number of 4th Division men. The morning air was
sweet and fresh after that of the dugout, but was rather chilly. A beautiful
dawn was beginning, and only a few of the larger stars were visible. The
constellation of Orion could be seen distinctly against the grey-blue of the
sky. At five o’clock the barrage started, and there was the usual glorious
roar of the opening attack. Very quickly the Germans replied, and shells fell
so unpleasantly near, that once again we crowded into the dugout. After a
hasty breakfast of bacon and tea the battalions moved off, and I made my
way to the front. I saw an officer of the 7th Battalion being carried to the
M.O.’s dugout. He was not badly hit, and told me he was just back from
leave and had been married only a fortnight ago. I shook hands with him
and congratulated him on being able to get back to Blighty and have a wife
to look after him. He was being carried by some Germans and had two of
our bearers with him. I went down into a communication trench and the
next instant a shell burst. I did not know then that anybody had been hit by
it, but I learned afterwards that the officer, the stretcher-bearers and the
Germans had all been killed.
I made my way to a mud road, where to my infinite delight I saw large
numbers of German prisoners being marched back. By the corner of a wood
the 8th Battalion were waiting their turn to advance. To the left was the hill
called The Crow’s Nest, which our 3rd Brigade had taken that day. I crossed
the Hendecourt-Dury road, which had trees on both sides of it, and then
meeting the 2nd Battalion went forward with them. There were some deep
trenches and dugouts on the way, which our units at once appropriated and
which became the headquarters of two of our Brigades. Our artillery had
also come up and their chaplain was with them. The C.O. of the 7th
Battalion was having breakfast in the corner of a field, and feeling very
happy over the result of the morning’s work. Far off we could see the wood
of Cagnicourt, and beyond that in the distance we could see other woods.
I went off in the direction of Cagnicourt and came to some German huts,
where there was a collection of military supplies. Among them was a large
anti-tank rifle. As it had begun to rain, I was very glad to find some German
water proof sheets which I put over my shoulders as I was eating my
260 The Smashing of the Drocourt-Quéant Line
bully-beef. Cagnicourt lay in a valley to the right and, when I got there, I
found a battery of artillery had just arrived and were taking up their
positions by a road which led on to Villers-Cagnicourt. We were all in high
spirits over our fresh achievement. In some dugouts on the way, I found the
headquarters of the 13th and 14th Battalions, and learned of the very gallant
deed of the Rev. E. E. Graham, the Methodist chaplain attached to the 13th
Battalion. He had carried out, under the barrage, five wounded men of the
2nd Division, who had been left in No Man’s Land. He was recommended
for the Victoria Cross, but unfortunately, for some reason or other, only got
the D.S.O. In a trench near Villers-Cagnicourt I found the 4th Battalion, who
told me that they thought our advance was checked. I sat talking to them for
some time, but was so tired that I absolutely could not keep awake. The
men were much amused to see me falling asleep in the midst of a
conversation. I managed, however, to pull myself together, and went over
to the main Cherisy road, on the side of which one of our ambulances had
taken up its position and was being attended by one of our military
chaplains. I was feeling so seedy by this time that I got a seat by the side of
the driver on a horse ambulance, and made my way back to Cherisy. The
road was narrow and crowded with traffic, and had been broken in places
by shells. Quite a number of bodies were lying by the wayside. I arrived
back at my billet in Arras in the evening feeling very tired. At the Corps
dressing station that night I saw large numbers of our men brought in,
among them the C.O. of the 2nd Battalion, who had especially distinguished
himself that day, but was very badly wounded.
In spite of the fact that we had not been able to go as far as we had
intended, another glorious victory was to our credit, and we had broken the
far-famed Drocourt-Quéant line with its wire entanglements which the
Germans had thought to be impregnable. Two days afterwards, on
September 4th, our Division was taken out of the line and sent back for rest
and reorganization.
261
the midst of the men and thought of what they had gone through, and how
the flames in the fiery furnace of war had left their cheery souls unscathed,
one’s heart was filled with an admiration for them which will never die.
On looking over my diary during those delightful days while we were
waiting to make the great attack, I see records of many journeys to our
various battalions and artillery brigades. Wanquetin, Wailly, Dainville,
Bernaville, Hautes Avesnes–what memories these names recall! I would
rattle over the dusty roads in my side-car and pull up at Battalion
Headquarters and get an invitation to dinner. On such occasions I used to
visit the cooks first and ask them if they had enough food on hand for me
in case the officers invited me to dine with them, and in case they didn’t,
if they (the cooks) would feed me later on in the kitchen. When the
invitation had been given, I used to go back to the cooks and say, “It’s all
right, boys, you won’t be bothered with my society, the officers have asked
me to dinner.” In the evening, before I rode off, I used to go round to the
men’s billets, or to the Y.M.C.A. tent, if there was one, and have a talk with
the men on the war outlook or any other topic that was perplexing them at
the time. Often I was followed to my car by some man who had deeper
matters to discuss, or perhaps some worry about things at home, and who
wanted to unburden himself to a chaplain. On the way back, when darkness
had fallen and my feeble headlight warned us against speeding, I would
meet or overtake men and have a talk, or tell them to mount up on the box
at the back of the car and I would give them a ride. The rows of tall trees
along the road would stand out black against the starlit sky, and in the
evening air the sweet smells of nature would fill us with delight. We felt
too, that nearer and nearer the hour of the great victory was approaching.
Who amongst us would be spared to see it? How would it be brought
about? What great and fierce battle would lay the Germans low? The
supreme idea in the mind was consecration to a sublime sacrifice, which
dwarfed into insignificance all previous events in life. We had our fun, we
had our jokes, we met our friends, we saw battalions go on a route march,
we watched men play their games in the fields; but to me it seemed that a
new and mysterious light that was born of heaven hid behind the sunshine,
and cast a glory upon men and even nature. To dine at the rude board table
with the young officers of one of the companies of a battalion, perhaps in
a bare hut, on the floor of which lay the lads’ beds, was something sacred
and sacramental. Their apologies for the plainness of the repast were to me
extremely pathetic. Was there a table in the whole world at which it was a
greater honour to sit? Where could one find a nobler, knightlier body of
young men?
In the garden round the Château at Warlus were many winding paths,
Preparing for the Final Blow 263
where old trees gave a delightful shade. Here at odd moments one could get
away for a time into the leafy solitude and think quietly and wonder.
Although we were in rest there was of course no remission of warlike
activity and preparation. We knew that the next thing that lay before us was
the crossing of the Canal du Nord and the push to Cambrai. That was a
deed which would not only tax our strength and courage, but depended for
its success upon the care and diligence of our preparation.
On the two Sundays that we were at Warlus I had splendid church
parades with the Machine Gun Battalion. Part of their billets were in huts
beside the road to Dainville. In one of them one night I found some
Imperial officers who were in charge of the wireless telegraph station. They
told me some interesting facts about their work. The night was divided into
different periods when the communiqués of the various countries would be
sent out. These, of course, were for all the world to read. The most
wonderful thing they told me, however, was that they could pick up the
code messages sent from the German Admiralty Headquarters at Kiel to
their submarines under the sea. Of course not knowing the code, our
officers could not translate these despatches.
I received a great blow at this time, for my friend Lyons, who acted as
the chauffeur of my side-car, was sent off to the 3rd Division to replace one
of the despatch riders whom they had lost in the attack. Our own signallers
could not give me another man. As I could not run the car myself, a sudden
move might compel me to leave it behind. Someone, too, might appropriate
it, for the honesty of the army was, as I knew from experience, a grace on
which one could not place much reliance. The only person to whom I could
apply was my good and kind friend, the builder of my churches and huts,
Colonel Macphail, our C.R.E. He was always my refuge in distress. He
looked upon the building of churches at the front as an act of such piety that
it would guarantee to him at any time the certain admission into heaven. He
attributed his piety to the claim which his clan made to be the descendants
of St. Paul. Apparently in Gaelic, Macphail means “the son of Paul.” The
Colonel was always fond of insisting upon his high lineage. He came to see
me once when I was ill at Bruay, and after stating the historical claims of
his ancestors, asked me if I had not observed some traits in his character
which were like those of St. Paul. I told him that the only resemblance to
the Apostle which I had discovered in him was that his bodily presence was
weak and his speech contemptible. In spite of those unkind thrusts,
however, the colonel manifested the Apostle’s quality of forgiveness, and
was always ready to try and make me comfortable. I wrote to him now and
asked if he could send me a driver for my car. He did not fail me. A few
days afterwards, a young sapper appeared, saluted most properly, and told
264 Preparing for the Final Blow
The possession of a new driver for my car enabled me to pay a last visit
to Le Cauroy, where I had left some of my possessions on our trip to
Amiens. I found the Curé in high good humor over the way the war was
going. The outlook was very different now from what it had been when I
was there before. I also visited Arras and the forward area, where I dined
one night in a tent with Major Price, who was then in command of my
original battalion, the 14th. The men were billeted in trenches and as usual
were making the best of things. It was strange to look back to the early days
of the war and talk about old times. As I returned in the twilight and gazed
far away over the waste land towards the bank of low clouds in the eastern
sky, my heart grew sick at the thought of all which those fine young men
might have to endure before the crowning victory came. The thought of the
near presence of the Angel of Death was always coming up in the mind,
changing and transfiguring into something nobler and better our earthly
converse.
In the war, the Bible statement, “We have here no continuing city,” was
certainly true. Our happy life in Warlus and its neighbourhood came to an
end. On Friday, September 20th, the Division moved to Achicourt near
Arras. I took the opportunity to visit some friends in the 3rd Division who
were taking our places. Among them was “Charlie” Stewart, of the
P.P.C.L.I. I had taught him as a boy at school when I was curate of St.
John’s, Montreal. We talked over old times, and the great changes that had
taken place in Canada and the world since we were young. He was killed
not long afterwards before Cambrai. I went on through Dainville, where I
met the 42nd Battalion, and reached Achicourt in the evening. My billet was
in a very dirty room over a little shop. One corner of the house had been hit
Preparing for the Final Blow 265
Cagnicourt. On the journey I was delayed by a lorry which had gone into
the ditch and completely blocked the road. Here in a field the 1st Field
Ambulance had established themselves. Later on I managed to get to
Cagnicourt and found my son’s battery in the cellars of the Château. They
were getting their guns forward by night in preparation for the attack. They
gave me a very pressing invitation to sleep there and I accepted it. We had
a pleasant evening, listening to some remarkably good violin records on the
gramophone. Good music at such times had a special charm about it. It
reminded one of the old days of concerts and entertainments, but, at the
same time, as in the background of a dream, one seemed to hear beneath the
melodies the tramp of mighty battalions marching forward into battle, and
the struggles of strong men in the fierce contests of war.
On the following day I went on to the quarry which was to be our
Battle Headquarters near Inchy Station, from which the 2nd Division were
moving. I had a view of the smiling country over which we were to charge.
Between us and that promised land lay the Canal, the crossing of which was
necessarily a matter of great anxiety. It was late at night before I got back
to my home at Achicourt, where I had my last war dinner with my friend
General Thacker, who, with his staff, was up to his eyes in work. The next
day was taken up with arranging for the disposition of our chaplains during
the engagement, and about six o’clock I told Ross to saddle Dandy, and on
the dear old horse, who was fresh and lively as ever, I galloped off into the
fields. The sun had set and the fresh air of the evening was like a draught
of champagne. Dandy seemed to enjoy the ride as much as I did, and
cleared some trenches in good style. For nearly three years and a half we
had been companions. He had always been full of life and very willing, the
envy of those who knew a good horse when they saw him. When I returned
in the twilight and gave him back to Ross, I said, “You know, Ross, I am
going into this battle and may lose my leg in it, and so I wanted to have my
last ride on dear old Dandy.” It was my last ride on him, and he was never
ridden by anyone again. After I was wounded, he was kept at Headquarters
until, in order to avoid his being sold with other horses to the Belgians, our
kind A.D.V.S. ordered him to be shot. He was one of the best friends I had
in the war, and I am glad he entered the horses’ heaven as a soldier, without
the humiliation of a purgatory in some civilian drudgery.
That night some bombs were dropped near the station at Arras on units
of the 3rd Division, which passed through Achicourt in the afternoon,
causing many casualties, and we felt that the Germans knew another attack
was at hand. It was the last night I had a billet in France. On the next
morning we moved forward to some trenches on the way to Inchy, and I
parted from Headquarters there. This was really the most primitive home
Preparing for the Final Blow 267
that the Division had ever had. We had in fact no home at all. We found our
stuff dumped out in a field, and had to hunt for our possessions in the
general pile. A few tents were pitched and the clerks got to work. In a wide
trench little shacks were being run up, and I was to be quartered in the same
hut as the field cashier, which was thus to be a kind of union temple for the
service of God and the service of Mammon. I looked down into the clay pit
and saw the men working at my home, but I knew that I should probably
not occupy it. I determined to go forward to our Battle Headquarters,
prepared for a missionary journey, and find out when the attack was going
to be made. I put into my pack some bully-beef, hardtack, tinned milk and
other forms of nourishment, as well as a razor, a towel and various toilet
necessaries. On the other side of the road, the signallers had their
horse-lines, and our transports were near-by. I got my side-car and, bidding
good-bye to my friends, left for Inchy. We passed down the road to Quéant,
where we saw the wounded in the field ambulance, and from there started
off through Pronville to Inchy Station. The roads as usual were crowded,
and the dust from passing lorries was very unpleasant. We were going
through the valley by Inchy Copse when we suddenly heard a loud crash
behind us which made my driver stop. I asked him what he was about, and
said, “That was one of our guns, there is nothing to be alarmed at.” “Guns!”
he said, “I know the sound of a shell when I hear it. You may like shells but
I don’t. I’m going back.” I said, “You go ahead, if I had a revolver with me,
I would shoot you for desertion from the front line. That was only one of
our guns.” He looked round and said, “You call that a gun? Look there.” I
turned and sure enough, about a hundred feet away in the middle of the
road was the smoke of an exploded shell. “Well,” I said, “you had better go
on or there will be another one pretty soon, and it may get us.” With
extraordinary speed we hurried to our destination, where I left the car,
taking my pack with me. I told the driver, much to his relief, that he could
go home, and that when I wanted the car again I would send for it.
The quarry was, as I have said, our Battle Headquarters, and here in the
deep dugouts which I had visited previously I found our staff hard at work.
They told me that this was “Y” day, and that zero hour when the barrage
would start was at 5:20 the next morning. At that hour we were to cross the
Canal and then press on into the country beyond. We had a two battalion
front. The 4th and 14th Battalions were to make the attack, and be followed
up by the other battalions in the 1st and 3rd Brigades. When these had
reached their objective the 2nd Brigade was to “leap frog” them and push on
to Haynecourt and beyond. I was glad that I had come provided for the
expedition, and bidding good-bye to General Thacker, whose parting
injunction was not to do anything foolish, I got out of the quarry and made
268 Preparing for the Final Blow
my way down the hill towards Inchy. A railway bridge which crossed the
road near me was a constant mark for German shells, and it was well to
avoid it. An officer met me and asked where I was going. I said, “I don’t
know, but I think the Spirit is leading me to the old 14th Battalion in Buissy
Switch Trench.” He told me the direction to take, which was to cross the
road and follow the line of railway. The tins of milk and bully-beef cut into
my back so I stopped by a culvert and taking off my pack and tunic, sat on
the ground and cooled off. There was no sign of Buissy Switch anywhere,
but I got up and went on. The evening was closing in by this time, and, as
I am never good at seeing in the dark, it began to be difficult to keep from
tripping over things. At last the road brought me to a trench in which I
found the 14th Battalion. They were getting ready to move off at midnight
and wait in the wood by the edge of the Canal until the barrage opened. It
made one proud to be with those young men that evening and think what
they were called upon to do. What difficulties they would encounter in the
Canal they did not know. They said they might have to swim. We hoped,
however, that there was not much water, as the canal was still unfinished.
I said good-bye to them and wished them all good-luck. Crossing the
road I entered another trench, where I found the 13th Battalion, and beyond
them came to the 1st Battalion. By this time, it was dark and rainy, and the
ground was very slippery. I had to feel my way along the trench. A
company of the 4th Battalion who were to be in the first wave of the attack,
passed on their way forward to take up their position for the following
morning. Probably never in the war had we experienced a moment of
deeper anxiety. The men would have to climb down one side of the canal,
rush across it, and climb up the other. It seemed inevitable that the
slaughter would be frightful. At home in the cities of Canada things were
going on as usual. Profiteers were heaping up their piles of gold. Politicians
were carrying on the government, or working in opposition, in the interests
of their parties, while here, in mud and rain, weary and drenched to the
skin, young Canadians were waiting to go through the valley of the shadow
of death in order that Canada might live.
269
hen I got to the sunken road above Inchy I found that No. 1 Company
W of the Machine Gun Battalion had a little sandbag house there, and
were waiting for the attack. I went in and the young officers and men made
me at home at once. I divested myself of my pack, coat and steel helmet,
and determined to settle down for the night. Suddenly a shell burst in the
road, and I went out to see if anyone was hit. Two or three men were
wounded but not severely. We got them in and the young O.C. of the
company bound up their wounds and sent them off. There was a row of
these sandbag-huts against the bank, and at one end of them was the
entrance to a dugout in which the 1st Battalion and the General of the 1st
Brigade had made their headquarters. I went down the steep steps into a
long dark passage, lit here and there by the light which came from the
rooms on either side. The whole place was crowded with men and the
atmosphere was more than usually thick. I made my way down to the end
where there was a pump which had been put there by the Germans. Here
the men were filling their water-bottles, and I got a fresh supply for mine.
Not far from the pump a few steps led down into a room where I found the
C.O. and a number of the officers of the 1st Battalion. It was about two a.m.,
and they were having a breakfast of tea and bacon and invited me to join
them. After the meal was finished, the Colonel, who was lying on a rough
bed, said to me, “Sit down, Canon, and give us some of your nature poems
to take our minds off this beastly business.” It was very seldom that I was
270 The Crossing of the Canal Du Nord
There is not much in the poem, but, like a gramophone record, it carried
our minds away into another world. For myself, who remembered the
scenery that surrounded me when I wrote it and who now, in that filthy
hole, looked at the faces of young men who in two or three hours were to
brave death in one of the biggest tasks that had been laid upon us, the words
stirred up all sorts of conflicting emotions. The recitation seemed to be so
well received that I ventured on another–in fact several more–and then I
noticed a curious thing. It was the preternatural silence of my audience.
Generally speaking, when I recited my poems, one of the officers would
suddenly remember he had to dictate a letter, or a despatch rider would
come in with orders. Now, no one stirred. I paused in the middle of a poem
and looked round to see what was the matter, and there to my astonishment,
I found that everyone, except the young Intelligence Officer, was sound
asleep. It was the best thing that could have happened and I secretly
consoled myself with the reflection that the one who was unable to sleep
was the officer who specialized in intelligence. We both laughed quietly,
and then I whispered to him, “We had better go and find some place where
we, too, can get a little rest.” He climbed over the prostrate forms and
followed me down the passage to a little excavation where the Germans had
started to make a new passage. We lay down side by side on the wooden
floor, and I was just beginning to succumb to the soothing influences of my
own poetry, when I thought I felt little things crawling over my face. It was
too much for me. I got up and said, “I think I am getting crummy, so I’m
going off.” I looked in on the General and the Brigade Major, and then
climbed up the steps and went to the machine-gun hut.
The night was now well advanced so it was time to shave and get ready
for zero hour. A little after five we had some breakfast, and about a quarter
past I went up to the top of the bank above the road and waited for the
barrage. At 5:20 the savage roar burst forth. It was a stupendous attack.
Field guns, heavy guns, and siege batteries sent forth their fury, and
machine-guns poured millions of rounds into the country beyond the Canal.
So many things were flying about and landing near us, that we went back
under cover till the first burst of the storm should subside. At that moment
I knew our men were crossing the huge ditch, and I prayed that God would
give them victory. When the barrage had lifted I started down towards the
Canal, passing through a field on my way where I found, lying about, dead
272 The Crossing of the Canal Du Nord
and wounded men. Four or five were in a straight line, one behind another,
where a German machine-gun must have caught them as they advanced. A
young officer of the 2nd Battalion was dying from wounds. Two or three
decorations on his breast told his past record in the war. While I was
attending to the sufferers, a sergeant came up to me from the direction of
the Canal and asked the way to the dressing station. He had a frightful
wound in his face. A bit of a shell had dug into his cheek, carrying off his
nose. He did not know at the time how badly he had been hit. I asked him
if he wanted me to walk back with him, but he said he was all right as the
dressing station was not far off. I often wondered what became of him, and
I never heard till the following year when a man came up to me in the
military hospital at St. Anne’s, with a new nose growing comfortably on his
face and his cheek marked with a scar that was not unsightly. “The last time
I met you, Sir,” he said, “was near the Canal du Nord when you showed me
the way to the dressing station.” I was indeed glad to find him alive and
well, and to see what surgical science had done to restore his beauty.
I went on to the Canal, and found that at that point it was quite dry. I
climbed down to the bottom of it in which men were walking and the
sappers were at work. Some ladders enabled me to get up on the other side
and I had the joy of feeling that the Canadians had crossed the great Canal
du Nord. Our battalions were now moving up and I joined them, avoiding
a part of a field which the men told me was under the fire of a machine-gun
from the mill in Marquion. The country was open and green. The day was
fine, and once more we experienced the satisfaction of taking possession
of the enemy’s territory. Before us the ground rose in a gradual slope, and
we did not know what might meet us when we arrived at the top, but it was
delightful to go with the men feeling that every step was a gain. When we
got to the top of the rise, we had a splendid view of the country beyond.
Before us, in the distance running from right to left, lay the straight
Arras-Cambrai road with its rows of tall trees. Where we stood, there were
a number of deserted German trenches. Here the M.O. of the 3rd Battalion
opened up an aid post, and the chaplain went about looking for the
wounded. Our men went on down into the valley and got into some forward
trenches. I stayed on the hill looking at the wonderful scene through my
German glasses. On the left in a quarry beside the village of Marquion, I
saw two Germans manning a machine-gun. Our 3rd Brigade had taken the
place, and some Highlanders were walking on the edge of the quarry just
above the Huns, of whose presence they were unaware. I saw the enemy
suddenly hide themselves, having noticed the approach of the Highlanders,
but when the latter had passed the two Boches reappeared and went on
firing as before. It was not long before the German artillery turned their
The Crossing of the Canal Du Nord 273
guns on our hill and I told some men of the 2nd Brigade, who were now
coming forward, to take cover in the trench or go in extended order. I had
hardly uttered the words when a shell burst, killing one man and wounding
in the thigh the one to whom I was talking. I went over to him and found
that no artery had been cut, and the chaplain of the 3rd Battalion got him
carried off. Down in the valley our advance had evidently been checked for
a time. While I was trying to see what the trouble was, a young officer,
called Cope, of the 8th Battalion came up to me. He was a splendid young
fellow, and looked so fresh and clean. He had lost a brother in the Battalion
in the early part of the war. I said, “How old are you, Cope?” He replied,
“I am twenty.” I said, “What a glorious thing it is to be out here at twenty.”
“Yes,” he said, looking towards the valley, “it is a glorious thing to be out
here at twenty, but I should like to know what is holding them up.” He had
hardly spoken when there was a sharp crack of a machine-gun bullet and he
dropped at my side. The bullet had pierced his steel helmet and entered his
brain. He never recovered consciousness, and died on the way to the aid
post.
The 2nd Brigade was now moving forward, so I went down the hill past
a dugout which had been used as a German dressing station. There I
secured a bottle of morphine tablets, and spoke to our wounded waiting to
be carried off. Just before I reached the Arras-Cambrai road, I came to the
trench where the C.O. of the 3rd Battalion had established himself. The
chaplain and I were talking when an officer of the 2nd Battalion came back
with a bad wound in the throat. He could not speak, but made signs that he
wanted to write a message. We got him some paper and he wrote, “The
situation on our right is very bad.” The 4th Division were on our right, and
they had been tied up in Bourlon Wood. So now our advancing 2nd Brigade
had their right flank in the air. As a matter of fact their left flank was also
exposed, because the British Division there had also been checked in their
advance. I crossed the road into the field, where I found the 5th and 10th
Battalions resting for a moment before going on to their objective. In front
of us, looking very peaceful among its trees, was the village of Haynecourt
which the 5th Battalion had to take. The 10th Battalion was to pass it on the
left and go still further forward. We all started off, and as we were nearing
the village I looked over to the fields on the right, and there, to my dismay,
I saw in the distance numbers of little figures in grey which I knew must be
Germans. I pointed them out to a sergeant, but he said he thought they were
French troops who were in the line with us. The 5th Battalion went through
Haynecourt and found the village absolutely deserted and the houses
stripped of everything that might be of any value. Their C.O. made his
headquarters in a trench to the north of the village, and the 10th disappeared
274 The Crossing of the Canal Du Nord
daylight was dying rapidly. From the ground above the road one could see
in the distance the spires of Cambrai, and in some fields to the southeast of
us, with my glasses I could distinctly see numbers of little grey figures
going into trenches, apparently with the idea of getting round to the south
of our village on our exposed flank. I met a young officer of the machine
gun battalion, and lending him my glasses pointed out where the Germans
were massing. He got the men of his section and took up a forward position
along a ditch which ran at right angles to the sunken road. Here too were
some of the companies of the 5th Battalion. They had hardly got into
position when the Germans shelled the road we had been on, most
unmercifully. I took refuge with a number of the men of the 5th Battalion in
a garden, beside a brick building which had been used by the German
troops as a wash-house and which was particularly malodorous. Two or
three shells dropped in the orchard, breaking the trees, and we had to keep
down on the ground while the shelling lasted. I could not help thinking of
the warning the 2nd Battalion officer had given us about the situation on our
right. It did seem pretty bad, because, until the arrival of the 7th and 8th
Battalions, our right flank was exposed, and the enemy might have gone
round to the southeast of the village and attacked us in the rear. When
things settled down, I went back up the sunken road, and, as I did so,
thought I saw some men going into a gateway in the main street of the
village. I made my way to the open trenches where the Colonel of the 5th
Battalion had his headquarters, and I determined to spend the night there,
so they kindly provided me with a German overcoat. I was just settling
down to sleep when a runner came up and reported that some men were
wounded and were asking the way to the dressing station. Someone said
they thought the M.O. had made his headquarters in the village. Then I
remembered having seen some men enter a gateway in the street as I
passed, so two of us started off to find out if this was the regimental aid
post. The night was absolutely black, and my companion and I had to feel
our way along the street not knowing who or what we might bump into, and
expecting every moment that the Germans would begin to shell the place
as soon as they thought we had had time to find billets there. At last to our
great relief, we came to a large gateway in a brick wall and found some of
our men, who told us that the M.O. had made his dressing station in the
cellar of a building to the right. We went down into it and came upon a
place well lighted with candles, where the devoted M.O. and his staff were
looking after a number of men on stretchers.
The Germans were determined that we should not have a quiet night
and very soon, as we had expected, they began to shell the village. The
dressing station was in a building which they themselves had used for the
276 The Crossing of the Canal Du Nord
same purpose, so they knew its location, and shells began to fall in the yard.
We got all the men we could down to the cellar; but still there were some
stretcher cases which had to be left in the rooms upstairs. It was hard to
convince them that there was no danger. However the “straffing” stopped
in time, and I went down to the end of the cellar and slept in a big
cane-seated chair which the Germans had left behind them. In the morning
I went back again to our men in the line. The 10th Battalion had established
themselves partly in a ditch along the Cambrai road not far from Epinoy,
and partly in outposts behind the German wire. The country was
undulating, and in places afforded an extensive view of the forward area.
German machine-gun emplacements were in all directions, and our men
suffered very severely. I was in an outpost with one of the companies when
I saw in the distance one of our men crawling on his hands and knees up to
a German machine-gun emplacement. The helmets of the enemy could be
distinctly seen above the parapet. It was very exciting watching the plucky
fellow approach the place of danger with the intention of bombing it.
Unfortunately just as he had reached the side of the trench the Germans
must have become aware of his presence, for they opened fire, and he had
to crawl back again as fast as he could.
Though many wounded were brought in, we knew that some were still
lying out on the other side of the wire in full view of the enemy. As soon
as it was dark enough, a bearer party, which I accompanied, started off to
try and collect these men. With my cane I managed to lead the party
through a gap in the wire. I came to a poor fellow who had been lying there
since the previous night with a smashed arm and leg. He was in great pain,
but the men got him in safely, and the next time I saw him was in a Toronto
hospital where he was walking about with a wooden leg, and his arm in a
sling. I went down to an outpost where I saw some men. We could only talk
in whispers, as we knew the Germans were close at hand. They told me
they were one of the companies of the 10th Battalion. I asked, “Where are
your officers?” They said, “They are all gone.” “Who is in command?”
They replied, “A Lance-Corporal.” I rejoined the bearers and we had great
difficulty in getting back, as we could not find the gap in the wire, which
seemed to go in all directions.
The 10th Battalion was relieved that night by the 8th, the C.O. of which
made his headquarters with the C.O. of the 5th Battalion in a large dugout
by the sunken road. There, late at night, I shared a bunk with a young
machine-gun officer and had a few hours of somewhat disturbed sleep. The
next morning, Sunday, September the 29th, the fourth anniversary of our
sailing from Quebec, our men were having a hard time. The German
defence at Cambrai was most determined, and they had a large quantity of
The Crossing of the Canal Du Nord 277
artillery in the neighbourhood. I went back to the road and into the trench
beyond the wire and found a lot of men there. The parapet was so low that
the men had dug what they called, “Funk holes” in the clay, where they put
as much of their bodies as they could. Sitting in a bend of the trench where
I got a good view of the men, I had a service for them, and, as it was that
festival, I read out the epistle for St. Michael and All Angel’s Day, and
spoke of the guardianship of men which God had committed to the
Heavenly Hosts. Going down the trench later on, I came to a place from
which I could see, with my glasses, a German machine-gun emplacement
and its crew. I went back and asked for a sniper. A man who said he was
one came up to me and I showed him the enemy and then directed his fire.
I could see from little puffs of dust where his bullets were landing. He was
a good shot and I think must have done some damage, for all of a sudden
the machine-gun opened fire on us and we had to dive into the trench pretty
quickly. I told him that I thought we had better give up the game as they
had the advantage over us. To snipe at the enemy seemed to be a curious
way to spend a Sunday afternoon, but it was a temptation too hard to resist.
I crawled back through the trench to the road, and there finding a man who
had just lost his hand, directed him to the aid post near Battalion
Headquarters. I accompanied him part of the way and had reached the edge
of the sunken road, when a major of the Engineers came up to me and said,
“I have got a better pair of German glasses than you have.” It was an
interesting challenge, so we stood there on a little rise looking at the spires
of Cambrai and comparing the strength of the lenses. Very distinctly we
saw the town, looking peaceful and attractive. Suddenly there was a
tremendous crash in front of us, a lot of earth was blown into our faces, and
we both fell down. My eyes were full of dirt but I managed to get up again.
I had been wounded in both legs, and from one I saw blood streaming down
through my puttees. My right foot had been hit and the artery in the calf of
my leg was cut. I fell down again with a feeling of exasperation that I had
been knocked out of the war. The poor major was lying on the ground with
one leg smashed. The same shell had wounded in the chest the young
machine-gun officer who had shared his bunk with me the night before. I
believe an Imperial officer also was hit in the abdomen and that he died.
The chaplain of the 10th Battalion who happened to be standing in the
sunken road, got some men together quickly and came to our help. I found
myself being carried off in a German sheet by four prisoners. They had
forgotten to give me my glasses, and were very much amused when I called
for them, but I got them and have them now. The major not only lost his leg
but lost his glasses as well. The enemy had evidently been watching us
from some observation post in Cambrai, for they followed us up with
278 The Crossing of the Canal Du Nord
another shell on the other side of the road, which caused the bearers to drop
me quickly. The chaplain walked beside me till we came to the aid post
where there were some stretchers. I was placed on one and carried into the
dressing station at Haynecourt. They had been having a hard time that day,
for the village was heavily shelled. One of their men had been killed and
several wounded. I felt a great pain in my heart which made it hard to
breathe, so when I was brought into the dressing station I said, “Boys, I am
going to call for my first and last tot of rum.” I was immensely teased about
this later on by my friends, who knew I was a teetotaller. They said I had
drunk up all the men’s rum issue. A General wrote to me later on to say he
had been terribly shocked to hear I was wounded, but that it was nothing in
comparison with the shock he felt when he heard that I had taken to
drinking rum. Everyone in the dressing station was as usual most kind. The
bitter thought to me was that I was going to be separated from the old 1st
Division. The nightmare that had haunted me for so long had at last come
true, and I was going to leave the men before the war was over. For four
years they had been my beloved companions and my constant care. I had
been led by the example of their noble courage and their unhesitating
performance of the most arduous duties, in the face of danger and death, to
a grander conception of manhood, and a longing to follow them, if God
would give me grace to do so, in their path of utter self-sacrifice. I had been
with them continuously in their joys and sorrows, and it did not seem to be
possible that I could now go and desert them in that bitter fight. When the
doctors had finished binding up my wounds, I was carried off immediately
to an ambulance in the road, and placed in it with four others, one of whom
was dying. It was a long journey of four hours and a half to No. 1 C.C.S. at
Agnez-les-Duisans, and we had to stop at Quéant on the way. Our journey
lay through the area over which we had just made the great advance.
Strange thoughts and memories ran through my mind. Faces of men that
had gone and incidents that I had forgotten came back to me with great
vividness. Should I ever again see the splendid battalions and the glad and
eager lives pressing on continuously to Victory? Partly from shell holes,
and partly from the wear of heavy traffic, the road was very bumpy. The
man above me was in terrible agony, and every fresh jolt made him groan.
The light of the autumn afternoon was wearing away rapidly. Through the
open door at the end of the ambulance, as we sped onward, I could see the
brown colourless stretch of country fade in the twilight, and then vanish
into complete darkness, and I knew that the great adventure of my life
among the most glorious men that the world has ever produced was over.
279
hey took me to the X-ray room and then to the operating-tent that night,
T and sent me off on the following afternoon to the Base with a parting
injunction that I should be well advised to have my foot taken off; which,
thank God, was not found necessary. From the C.C.S. at Camiers, two days
later I was sent to London to the Endsleigh Palace Hospital near Euston
Station, where I arrived with another wounded officer at 2:30 a.m. I was put
in a little room on the seventh storey, and there through long nights I
thought of our men still at the front and wondered how the war was going.
The horror of great darkness fell upon me. The hideous sights and sounds
of war, the heart-rending sorrows, the burden of agony, the pale dead faces
and blood-stained bodies lying on muddy wastes, all these came before me
as I lay awake counting the slow hours and listening to the hoarse tooting
of lorries rattling through the dark streets below. That concourse of ghosts
from the sub-conscious mind was too hideous to contemplate and yet one
could not escape them. The days went by and intimations at last reached us
that the German power was crumbling. Swiftly and surely the Divine Judge
was wreaking vengeance upon the nation that, by its over-weaning
ambition, had drenched the world in blood.
On November 11th at eleven in the morning the bells of London rang
out their joyous peals, for the armistice had been signed and the war was
over. There was wild rejoicing in the city and the crowds went crazy with
delight. But it seemed to me that behind the ringing of those peals of joy
280 Victory
there was the tolling of spectral bells for those who would return no more.
The monstrous futility of war as a test of national greatness, the wound in
the world’s heart, the empty homes, those were the thoughts which in me
overmastered all feelings of rejoicing.
On Sunday morning, the 4th of May, 1919, on the Empress of Britain,
after an absence of four years and seven months, I returned to Quebec. On
board were the 16th Battalion with whom I had sailed away in 1914, the 8th
Battalion, the Machine Gun Battalion, the 3rd Field Ambulance and some
of the Engineers. Like those awaking from a dream, we saw once more the
old rock city standing out in the great river. There was the landing and the
greeting of loving friends on the wharf within a stone’s throw from the
place whence we had sailed away. While I was shaking hands with my
friends, an officer told me I had to inspect the Guard of Honour which the
kind O.C. of the vessel had furnished. I did not know how to do this
properly but I walked through the rows of stalwart, bronzed men and
looked into their faces which were fixed and immovable. Each man was an
original, and every unit in the old 1st Division was represented. For four
years and seven months, they had been away from home, fighting for
liberty and civilization. Many of them wore decorations; many had been
wounded. No General returning victor from a war could have had a finer
Guard of Honour.
The troops had to wait on board the ship till the train was ready. All
along the decks of the great vessel, crowded against the railings in long
lines of khaki, were two thousand seven hundred men. Their bright faces
were ruddy in the keen morning air. On their young shoulders the burden
of Empire had rested. By their willing sacrifice Canada had been saved. It
made a great lump come in my throat to look at them and think of what they
had gone through.
I went back to the gangway for a last farewell. In one way I knew it
must be a last farewell, for though some of us will meet again as
individuals it will be under altered conditions. Never again but in dreams
will one see the great battalions marching on the battle-ploughed roads of
France and Flanders. Never again will one see them pouring single file into
the muddy front trenches. All that is over. Along the coasts of the Atlantic
and Pacific, among our cities, by the shores of lakes and rivers and in the
vast expanse of prairies and mountain passes the warrior hosts have melted
away. But there on the vessel that day the fighting men had come home in
all their strength and comradeship. I stood on the gangway full of
conflicting emotions.
The men called out “Speech,” “Speech,” as they used often to do, half
in jest and half in earnest, when we met in concert tents and estaminets in
Victory 281
France.
I told them what they had done for Canada and what Canada owed
them and how proud I was to have been with them. I asked them to
continue to play the game out here as they had played it in France. Then,
telling them to remove their caps, as this was our last church parade, I
pronounced the Benediction, said, “Good-bye, boys,” and turned
homewards.
282
Index
Pys. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114, 132 sons, my. . . . 29, 122, 129, 131, 132, 151, 152,
Quatre Vents.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 155, 164, 199, 229, 230, 234, 254,
Quéant. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268, 279 267
Quebec. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 son’s grave, my.. . . . . . . . . 132, 133, 155, 254
Queen’s Own Westminsters. . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Souchez. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
Quesnel.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 spy fever. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
Railway Dugouts. . . . . . . . . 101-103, 106-108 Squadron, 13th.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
railway triangle.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 St. Aubin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
Ranchicourt. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127, 167, 178 St. Eloi Rd.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139, 142, 218
Ravine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 St. Feuchien. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238, 239
recitation of poem under difficulties.. . . . . 169 St. George’s Church. . 100, 104, 108, 138, 151,
record attack, a. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 163
record-beating advance.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 No. 2. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
refugees. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 No. 3. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
Regina Trench. . 114, 115, 122, 131-133, 155 St. George’s Rectory.. . . . . . . . . . . . . 158, 202
religion of men at front.. . . . . . . . . . . . 92, 111 St. Jans Cappel. . . . . . . . . . . . . 89-91, 99, 256
rest camp. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159, 251 St. Jean. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43, 49
Riviera. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 St. Julien.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37, 43
Robecq. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59, 200 St. Lawrence River. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Roberts, Lord. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 St. Nazaire. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Roberts, Robertson, Sir Wm.. . . . . . . . . . . 191 St. Nicholas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
Roclincourt.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 St. Omer. . . . . . . . . . . . . 78, 79, 110, 111, 164
Roellencourt. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122-124 St. Pol. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122, 135, 136, 234
Romarin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73, 74, 88 St. Pol Rd.. . . . . . . . . . . . . 122, 226-228, 234
Rome. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187-189 St. Sauveur Cave. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
march through the streets.. . . . . . . . . 189 St. Sylvestre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Rosières. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246, 247 St. Venant.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
Ross, Pte.. . . 74, 75, 82, 89, 91, 129, 222, 267 Steenje. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58, 59, 72
Rouville. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 Steenvoorde. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36, 110
Rouvroy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 Stewart, Charles. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
Royal Canadian Regiment. . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 Stonehenge. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Royal Horse Artillery. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 Strand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
Royal Rifles, 8th.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1, 2 Strathcona Horse. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
Rubempré. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111-113 Strazeele. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Ruitz. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155, 156 stretcher bearers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
sad stories. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115, 116 Sunday program. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
Sailly-sur-Lys. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27, 29 Swan Château.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
Sains-en-Gohelle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Talbot House. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100, 199
Salient.. . . . . 99, 103, 104, 106, 108, 111, 191, Talbot, Neville. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
199, 237 tanks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115, 240, 243, 248
Salisbury Plain. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15, 20-22 Tara Hill. . . . . . . 113, 121, 129, 132, 155, 254
Sanctuary Wood. . . . . . . . . . . . . 102, 103, 108 Telegraph Hill.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
Sappers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 tent hospitals, Canadian. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Sausage Valley. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Terdeghem. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34, 35
Scarpe River. . . . 139, 215, 218-220, 230, 236 Thacker, Gen.. . . 110, 166, 228, 239, 252, 267,
Scarpe Valley. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 268
Second Army School. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 “The Times”. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
Seely, Gen.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76, 88 Thélus.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Shell-Trap Farm. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Tilloy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
shells, 17 inch.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Tilques. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
“shock troops”. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Tincques. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231, 233
“Silent Toast, The”. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 training for final attack.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
“sky pilot”. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Tully. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Smith-Dorrien, Gen.. . . . . . . . . . . . . 23, 35, 36 Turcos.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45, 53
Somme. . . . 110, 111, 113, 125, 127, 135, 136, Turin.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
154, 222 “Unbroken Line, The”. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . viii
288 Index
Valcartier. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2, 3, 5, 9, 10
departure. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Vandervyver, M... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36, 42, 49
Venezelos, M... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
Verbranden Molen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
Verdrel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
Victory Year. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
Villers au Bois. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157, 163
Villers-Cagnicourt. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261
Villers-Chatel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178, 224, 230
Vimy Ridge. . . . 125, 126, 131, 133, 137, 151,
152, 170, 181, 202, 208, 230, 237,
242
Vlamertinghe. . . 41, 50, 53, 57, 106, 107, 197
Wailly. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263
Wanquetin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263
Warlus. . . . . . . . . . . . 214, 215, 262, 264, 265
Warvillers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247, 249, 250
Westhof Farm. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Wieltje. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36, 38, 43, 45
Willerval.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145, 152
Wingles.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
Wippenhoek. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
Wisques. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
wounded. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278
wreath on Victor Emmanuel Statue. . . . . . 191
Wulverghem. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83, 91
Y.M.C.A.. . . 15, 114, 130, 140, 172, 176, 177,
181, 187, 194, 234, 257, 263
Ypres. . . 32, 33, 36-40, 42, 45-48, 51, 53, 88,
101, 103, 104, 106, 107, 197, 199,
200
Yser Canal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36, 38
Zillebeke Bund. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
Zulus.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166, 167
Also Available from Legacy Books Press Classics
ISBN: 978-0-9784652-4-7
Until the First World War, the theory of war in Europe revolved around a
rivalry between two thinkers – Carl von Clausewitz and Baron Antoine
Henri de Jomini. For most of the 19th century, Jomini’s The Art of War was
considered the most important book written on the subject, and Jomini the
leading expert on military theory.
The Art of War was translated into English twice. The first time was in
1854. The standard translation was published in 1862, but that translation
was incomplete – the translators had excised Jomini’s introductory
material, losing an important part of The Art of War, including key points
in the rivalry between Jomini and Clausewitz.
For the first time in English since 1854, Legacy Books Press Classics
presents Baron de Jomini’s The Art of War complete and restored, with the
original front matter reinstated, and a new introduction by John-Allen
Price. Still influential even today, this is a key volume for understanding
the art of war and the Age of Napoleon.