Homemade Recipes Book Soaps Ointments Candles Shampoos and Balms
Homemade Recipes Book Soaps Ointments Candles Shampoos and Balms
Homemade Recipes Book Soaps Ointments Candles Shampoos and Balms
For Soap,
Candles,
& Potpourri
Table of Contents
Balms ...................................................................................................................... 12
Basic Balm ................................................................................................................................. Belly Balm .................................................................................................................................. Body Butter ................................................................................................................................ Body Butter Bar .......................................................................................................................... Citrus Body Splash ..................................................................................................................... Emu Herbal Baby Balm .............................................................................................................. Herbal Hand Salve ...................................................................................................................... Herbal Healing Balm .................................................................................................................. Neem Balm ................................................................................................................................ Peach & Berry Gardeners Hand Cream ...................................................................................... Strawberry Cream ....................................................................................................................... Tiger Balm .................................................................................................................................. Winter Balm ............................................................................................................................... 12 12 13 13 14 15 16 17 17 18 18 19 19
Candles.................................................................................................................... 21
Beer Mug Candles ...................................................................................................................... Floater Candles .......................................................................................................................... Honeycomb Sheet Candle .......................................................................................................... Ice Candles ................................................................................................................................. Millefiori Candles ......................................................................................................................... Water Candles ............................................................................................................................ Whipped Wax Candle .................................................................................................................. 21 21 21 22 22 23 23
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Old Fashioned Goatsmilk Soap ................................................................................................... Pampering Body Bar ................................................................................................................... Peppermint Wake Up .................................................................................................................. Shampoo Bar II .......................................................................................................................... Shaving Soap ............................................................................................................................. Shea Butter Soap ....................................................................................................................... Simply Soap Bar ......................................................................................................................... Slice of Summer ......................................................................................................................... Tons of Bubbles .......................................................................................................................... Vinnys Wild Oats Soap ............................................................................................................... Vitamin Soap .............................................................................................................................. Youthful Complexion ...................................................................................................................
43 44 44 45 45 46 46 47 47 48 49 50
Creams .................................................................................................................... 52
Basic Hand & Body Cream ......................................................................................................... Cucumber Cream ....................................................................................................................... Gardeners Hand Cream ............................................................................................................. Gentle Face Cream and Base...................................................................................................... Lavendar Cream ......................................................................................................................... Rose Aloe Face Cream ................................................................................................................ Skin Butter ................................................................................................................................. Ultra Hand & Body Cream .......................................................................................................... Whipped Creme.......................................................................................................................... 52 52 53 53 54 54 55 55 56
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Lavender, Milk & Oatmeal Tub Tea .............................................................................................. 68 Lavender-Citrus Bath Salts.......................................................................................................... 68 Moisturizing Bath Fizzy ................................................................................................................ 69 Natural Cleansing Washbag ........................................................................................................ 69 Oatmeal, Milk & Honey Bath Tea ................................................................................................ 70 Oatmeal-Salt Bath ...................................................................................................................... 70 Relaxing Milk Bath ...................................................................................................................... 71 Shimmering Rose Dusting Powder .............................................................................................. 71 Silk Soak .................................................................................................................................... 71 Soothing Milk Bath - Jasmines ................................................................................................... 72 Soothing Milk Bath ..................................................................................................................... 72 Thalasso Therapy ....................................................................................................................... 73 Truly Distinctive Bath Oil ............................................................................................................. 73
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Herbal Shampoo ........................................................................................................................ Loc Butter .................................................................................................................................. Natural Hair Detangler ................................................................................................................ Natural Herbal Shampoo ............................................................................................................
91 91 92 92
Beautys Secret ......................................................................................................................... 117 Body Clay ................................................................................................................................. 117 Herbal Clay and Oat Mask ........................................................................................................ 118
Ointments.............................................................................................................. 131
Calendula & Plantain Ointment ................................................................................................. 131 Darlenes Ointment #1 ............................................................................................................. 131 PMS Oil Blend .......................................................................................................................... 132
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Fresh Pear................................................................................................................................. Heather Potpourri ..................................................................................................................... Mardi Gras ................................................................................................................................ Nostalgia Potpourri ................................................................................................................... Patchouli Potpourri ................................................................................................................... Plumerian Delight Potpourri ...................................................................................................... Romance .................................................................................................................................. Sunflower ................................................................................................................................. Vanilla Bay ................................................................................................................................
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About Dead Sea Ingredients ..................................................................................................... 181 About Dendritic Salts ................................................................................................................ 182 About Emu Oil .......................................................................................................................... 182 About Hemp ............................................................................................................................. 182 About Neem Oil ........................................................................................................................ 183 Essential, Fragrance & Flavor Oils ............................................................................................ 183 What is the difference between Essential oils, Fragrance oils and Flavor oils? ...................... 183 Can candle fragrance oils be used in toiletries and vise versa? ............................................. 184 How to ...................................................................................................................................... 184 Heat Shea Butter Properly ................................................................................................... 184 Melt Solid Oils ..................................................................................................................... 184 Reshape Flattened Loofah ................................................................................................... 184 Figure a Percentage (i.e., how much fragrance oil to add) ................................................... 184 Making ...................................................................................................................................... 184 An Infusion .......................................................................................................................... 184 Linen Waters ....................................................................................................................... 185 Natural Hair Care ...................................................................................................................... 185 Cleansing ............................................................................................................................ 185 Conditioning ....................................................................................................................... 185 Oil Treatments ..................................................................................................................... 185 Using ........................................................................................................................................ 185 An Anti-Oxidant to Preserve Your Products .......................................................................... 185 Clay in Soap ........................................................................................................................ 186 Clays for Facial Masks.......................................................................................................... 186 Emulsifying Wax .................................................................................................................. 186 FD & C Dyes ....................................................................................................................... 186 Flavor Oils ........................................................................................................................... 186 Grapefruit Seed Extract ....................................................................................................... 187 Hydrolyzed Silk .................................................................................................................... 188 Milk Powders ....................................................................................................................... 188 Oxides and Ultramarines ..................................................................................................... 188 Polysorbate 20 ..................................................................................................................... 188 Silicone Rubber Molds .............................................................................................................. 189 Choosing Objects to Make Your Mold .................................................................................. 189 Making your Mold ................................................................................................................ 189 Why consider adding potpourri and air fresheners to your line? ................................................. 190
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Balms
Basic Balm
Ingredients: 1 part beeswax 1 part butter 1 part oil or oil blend Instructions: Melt wax and butter in a double boiler and stir in oils. Remove from heat and add fragrance and colorant. This basic balm can be softened with more oil or hardened with more wax or butter. This can be poured into lip balm containers or deodorant containers for use as lotion bars.
Belly Balm
Great for dry skin Ingredients: 2 parts cocoa butter 1 part shea butter 1 part mango butter 2 parts virgin coconut oil rose geranium essential oil or fragrance oil Color with pearlescent micas if you wish Instructions: Melt butters and oil in a double boiler. Add essential oil or fragrance oil. Add mica if you are coloring the balm. Pour into deodorant containers.
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Body Butter
Submitted by Catina of Moreno Valley, CA A soft,soothing, easy to make body butter. Ingredients: 1/8 cup illipe butter 1 1/2 tsp virgin coconut oil 1 T almond oil, apricot oil or peach kernel oil 1 1/2 tsp emu or avocado oil 1 1/2 tsp hydrogenated jojoba MP 56 5-10 drops essential oil mica can be used to color Instructions: Melt illipe butter & jojoba together in a double boiler. Mix mica into 1 tablespoon of oil and then add to the rest of the oils. Add the oils to the butter wax mixture. Add EO and whip until cool. Spoon into containers and let solidify.
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Neem Balm
Submitted by Kathleen of Burlington, WA A good all around anti fungal, anti bacterial healing balm. Ingredients: 2 oz Hemp Oil infused with Neem leaves 1/4 oz of each: shea butter neem oil mango butter kokum butter sal butter illipe butter 2 T beeswax Instructions: Melt together and pour into litle jars or as I do, into the little 1/4 or 1/2 oz tins.
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Strawberry Cream
Submitted by Robert of Hyattsville, MD Ingredients: 1/2 ounce Cocoa Butter 1/2 ounce Lanolin 2 1/2 ounces Apricot Kernel Oil 3/4 ounce Strawberry juice 3 drops of Benzoin Instructions: Thoroughly wash and drain several large, fresh strawberries. Mash and strain the juice through a colander or sieve(if you have a fruit/vegetable juicer, this will be easier). Heat the cocoa butter, lanolin, and almond oil in a double boiler(do this slowly, not to a boil). Remove from heat, and add strawberry juice very quickly. Beat briskly until fluffy(an egg whisk or electric mixer will do). Put into sterilized jars. Keep refridgerated. Apply each night, or when ever needed.
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Tiger Balm
Submitted by Raquel of Bristol, RI Linament for sore muscles Ingredients: 4 tsp shea butter 3 TBS of vegetable oil 2 tbs of jojoba oil 1 cake (1 tbs) camphor gum 15 ml peppermint oil 15 ml eucalyptus oil 10ml of lavender oil 1 tsp beeswax pellets Instructions: Melt shea butter, oil and jojoba and crumble camphor gum into the mix. (use rubber gloves its really stinky) When it is liquid add essential oils and pour into a 4 oz container and let set. It will be a thin ointment that will relieve tired muscles.
Winter Balm
Good for cracked heels and severe winter skin Ingredients: 2 oz beeswax 2 oz shea butter 2 oz cocoa butter 2 oz coconut oil 2 oz avocado oil 2 oz apricot kernel oil 2 oz aloe vera oil 2 oz jojoba 2 oz emu oil Germal Plus FO or EO of choice Instructions: Melt Beeswax in a double boiler or pyrex measuring cup. Add butters, then coconut oil. Blend with a stick blender while adding the remaining oils. Add the Emu, Germal Plus and scent last. Blend for several minutes, until cool and put into jars or containers of choice. The small, plastic, disposable containers work well.
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Candles
Beer Mug Candles
Submitted by Jessica of Ormond Beach, FL Gel candles that look just like beer Ingredients: Beer mug Gel Wax Small amount of paraffin wax 7" 51 series zinc wick Candle fragrance oil with flashpoint of 170 degrees or higher Gold candle safe coloring Instructions: THE BEER: Follow the instructions for preparing the gel wax. Do not over heat. The cooler the gel, the more bubbles you will have. While this is heating, get your wick positioned in the mug using a little melted paraffin to hold the wick in place. Add your color and your scent to the gel wax (I use vanilla)and stir thoroughly. Pour into mug, stopping about an inch from the top. Pull up on your wick to straighten it. THE HEAD: Melt paraffin wax at med low heat. Once it has melted, take off the burner and add fragrance. Start whipping it up with a fork. As the wax cools, it will turn white again, and your whipping will make it frothy. When it is is thick enough to be spooned out, spoon it on top of the beer in the mug. This forms the beers head. Tug your wick again, and while it is setting up to be sure it stays straight.
Floater Candles
Instructions: You can easily make floater candles by pouring wax into tart tins that have been greased with mold release. Just pour the wax in and allow it to form a thin layer of hardened wax and then poke a hole through the top so you can push a primed wick into the tart.
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Ice Candles
These are fun to make and relatively simple but they look beautiful when theyre finished. Instructions: Clean out an empty milk carton and tape along the outside/bottom of it with masking tape to make the walls stronger so they dont bow from the weight of the wax. Melt some paraffin wax to about 140F. Place a taper candle the same height as the candle you want to make in the center of the milk carton and fill up the carton with crushed ice. The ice should hold the taper in place. Place the carton in a basin of some sort to catch any spilling water as the ice melts (not in the sink though!). Slowly pour the wax into the carton until it fills to the top. If the level of the wax goes down, just add more wax. When the candle is cool to the touch, hold it over a basin or tub and peel/cut the milk carton off the candle. The melted water will gush out so be prepared. The taper inside the candle can be replaced when it burns down completely.
Millefiori Candles
Millefiori means thousands of flowers. Instructions: It is done by creating logs of wax that have a design that runs through the length of the log so that when its sliced, the slices all look the same. As you slice the log with a hot knife, the slices are applied to a candle base. The logs can be created by rolling different colored wax sheets around each other or by creating a multicolored taper. To create the log using wax sheets, start with warm poured or store bought flat soft wax sheets. Take a thin slice of one color and position it on the edge of another colored sheet. Roll the sheet around the slice once. Cut off the excess. Then place the roll on top of another colored sheet and roll it around the log once. Cut off the excess and continue building up layers by rolling the log in different colored sheets. When it reaches a thickness of a taper candle, give it a good roll on a hard surface to make it nice and round. To create the logs by dipping, place several tins of colored waxes in a double boiler and melt them. Take a 6 inch piece of a small wick and dip it into one of the colors a couple of times until you get a good wax buildup. Then dip it into another color a few time until you get a build up. Keep dipping in various colors until your log is about the size of a regular tapered candle. Put the wick out of the candle halfway. When the log is warm, it should pull out easily. If the log gets too hard to slice, just redip it in the last color you used for a bit and the hot wax should soften the log up again. Keep pulling the wick out as you slice the log. The wick will allow you to redip in hot wax if necessary. Warm a knife in a pot of boiling water and take a thin slice off the log and immediately apply it to the candle base (start at the top and work down). Apply a little pressure to glue it to the base. Keep applying slices as close together as possible until the whole candle is covered or until you have finished your design.
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Water Candles
These candles are very pretty and well worth the extra time and effort necessary to create them. Instructions: Have ready a large, clean trash can full of cold water. Melt about 12 oz of micro crystalline wax (to make the wax more pliable) in a double boiler or crock pot. Add about 6.5 lbs of paraffin wax (medium melting point - 140F), heat up the blend to about 170F and maintain it at that temperature. Fill an empty pie plate with wax and place a 5 inch tall pillar candle base in the center. Allow it to harden by holding the pie plate in the water. Once its firm, remove the pie plate from the candle. Your pillar should now have a sturdy rim around it. Holding the pillar so that the rim is at a 45 degree angle to the water, pour some wax into the rim and slowly but firmly plunge the rim into the water, twisting it as you go. Keep repeating this process as you go around the entire rim of the candle. The wax will form wispy wave-like shapes around the pillar. When you burn the candle, only the pillar will burn so you can replace it when necessary. To clean up, scoop up the wax bits from the water and allow them to air dry. You can reuse these pieces if you are sure no water remains trapped inside. Crushing them with a rolling pin and then allowing them to dry should get rid of any water. If you are not sure, just chuck them better to be safe than sorry.
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Lay out all the equipment you need, line your mold with wax paper if necessary and measure out ingredients. You can measure out the lye on a piece of wax paper square using a plastic spoon or scoop, just make sure to tare the scale with the paper first. You must weight the lye accurately because an extra ounce is too much. Lye amounts are calculated according to the saponification values of the oils in a recipe. See the Saponification Value Chart. When you are ready to experiment with your own recipes, you can use the Saponification Chart (comma delimited) that I provided for calculating how much lye and liquid would be needed for the quantities of oils you wish to use. Pour the water into the appropriate container (remember, no aluminum!). Carefully pour the lye into the water and stir until dissolved. Do not breathe in the fumes. Leave the solution to cool to within 5 degrees of the required temperature of the recipe at which point you can start heating up the oils in a saucepan. If you are using grapefruit seed extract, add it to the warm oils. When the oils have reached the required temperature, check the lye temperature. If it becomes too cool, place the container in another container filled with hot water. Do not attempt to heat the lye in a microwave or on the stove. The oils will heat quickly so remove the saucepan frmo the heat source when the temperature is within 5-10 degrees of the required temperature. When the correct temperatures have been reached, pour the oils into the container that you will use to make the soap. While stirring, pour the lye carefully into the oils. Stir continuously until the soap traces. Tracing is described as the point at which the soap will eave a mark when soap from the spatula is drizzled over the surface of the soap in the container. At this point, stir in any nutrient oils, color pigments and essential or fragrance oils but work quickly. Some fragrance oils will cause the soap to suddenly solidify. Grapefruit seed extract will cause a quicker trace than usual. Pour soap into mold and cover with a piece of wood or wrap with an old blanket or towel. Leave the soap undisturbed for at least 24 hours until it cools. The soap should be firm with no pools of oil on top. If its not firm, wait another day or so and check again. Remove the soap from the mold and slice into bars. If you have trouble getting the soap out of the mold, try placing the mold in the freezer overnight and it should then pop out easily. The soap needs to cure for the given amount of time in the recipe. You can check to see if its cured by washing your hands with it. If it leaves a slimy feeling, leave it to cure for another week.
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Create Your Own Bar or Liquid Soap Recipe - The Easy Way! If you havent seen our custom written Soap-U-Lator yet - youve got to check it out! Its very easy to use, even for the novice soap maker. Simply choose your oils from the list by percentage until you have 100% picked, choose your additives and what size of batch you want. Press the button and viola - your very own custom recipe. Its like having your very own experienced soaper right there at your fingertips!
Weve tried to include everything a soapmaker would want to be able to do including superfatting, liquid soap and more! If youre signed up as a Preferred Customer, you can even save your recipes in your very own online recipe book.
To find the Soap-U-Lator, simply click on the Soapulator button on the left hand side of our website, or the direct URL is:
http://www.fromnaturewithlove.com/soap/creator.asp
Were constantly looking for ways to improve, so if you have any suggestions for making the Soap-U-Lator better, please dont hesitate to let us know!
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Canola Soap
Submitted by Laura of Defuniak Springs, FL No coconut or palm added Ingredients: 4 oz. olive oil 52 oz. canola oil 9 oz castor oil 30 oz. lard or tallow or crisco or a combo, of any of them 28 oz cold water 12 oz. lye Additives (optional) Instructions: Use rubber gloves and safty goggles to prevent injury from lye. Weigh all ingredients. Use glass, plastic or enamel coated pan to mix lye water. Slowly add lye to the water and let it sit until temp is about 95 degrees. Meanwhile, warm the oils to about 110 degrees. Have all your additives ready to put in (do this while the lye solution is cooling). Add the lye solution to the oils slowly to prevent splashing and stir until the mixture is like thin pudding. At light trace, add your scents and pour into pregreased molds (I use mineral oil). Wrap in a blanket and let it set for 12-24 hours. Remove and cut into desired sizes and lay in the open to cure for at least two weeks. This makes a pretty white bar that takes scents well and has a fairly good lather.
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Good Bar
Submitted by Brian of Fairfield, CA Inexpensive oils can make a luxurious bar of soap Ingredients: Oils: 2.4 oz Sweet Almond Oil 4.0 oz Coconut Oil 3.4 oz Grapeseed Oil 2.4 oz Olive Oil 2.4 oz Palm Oil 2.4 oz Sunflower Oil Lye/Water: 2.4 oz NaOH/Lye 5.7 oz Water Instructions: Combine oils, heat gently. Once the fats and oils are melted and the temperature is 100-125 degrees, the oils are ready. Temporarily set oils aside. Combine the lye and the water. Add the lye slowly and stir constantly, never let a bunch of granules become caked on the bottom of the container. Once the temperature has cooled to 100-125 degrees, the lye solution is ready. Combine the melted oils and lye solution together. Stir until tracing occurs. Add fragrance. Pour into prepared molds. Allow 1 to 2 days to set-up. Remove from mold and cut into bars. Allow to cure. When the bars are cured, the pH reading should be between 7.5 and 9.0.
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Luxury Bar
Submitted by Kia of Provodence, RI A luxury body bar Ingredients: 14.3 ounces lye 34.5 ounces water 2 tsp hydrolized silk amino acids added to water & lye mixture. 1.9 oz sweet almond oil 19.2 oz tallow (beef) 1.0 oz castor oil 24.0 oz coconut oil 1.0 oz emu oil 1.9 oz jojoba oil 1.9 oz mango Butter 1.0 oz neem oil 24.0 oz olive oil 19.2 oz palm oil 1.0 oz sal butter recipe was superfatted with: 3 ounces of mango butter, 2 ounces of jojoba oil,and 2 ounces of emu oil. Instructions: Follow basic instructions for cold processed soaps.
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Peppermint Wake Up
Submitted by Holly of Wilmington, DE Minty soap that holds fragrance well Ingredients: 1 TBSP Peppermint EO 1 tsp Rosemary EO 1 tsp Tea Tree EO .25 grams T50 or ROE 1/3 cup peppermint leaves, finely ground Instructions: To a 5 lb. batch of cold-process soap at trace (recipe of choice) add T50 (or ROE), essential oils, and finely ground peppermint leaves. Use a whisk to blend well. Pour into molds.
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Shampoo Bar II
Submitted by Mary Ellen of Tustin, MI A wonderful shampoo bar with lots of lather. Ingredients: Sweet Almond Oil 8 oz. Canola Oil 8 oz. Castor Oil 24 oz. Coconut Oil 32 oz. Olive Oil 32 oz. Palm Oil 24 oz. Lye 17.95 oz. (5% excess fat) Liquid 46 oz. (I used water) EOs to scent Instructions: Combine lye into liquid, stir well. Wear your eye goggles and gloves. Cool to 110 degrees. Combine oils and heat to 110 degrees. Add lye solution to oils. Stir until trace. Add desired scent. Pour in mold.
Shaving Soap
Submitted by Bonnie of Cedar City, UT Ingredients: 20 oz palm kernal oil 20 oz coconut oil 40 oz olive oil 30 oz buttermilk 11 oz lye 3 heaping Tbls bentonite clay Instructions: Heat oils to 100. Partially freeze buttermilk. Slowly add lye to milk, dont let it go over 100. Combine. At trace: add 3.5 oz lavender eo, 3 Tbsp castor oil & 2 Tbsp sweet almond oil.
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Slice of Summer
Submitted by Camille Pratt of Wild Iris Botanicals Cucumber soap Ingredients: 15 oz. canola oil 30 oz. Coconut oil 27 oz. Olive oil 21 oz. Palm oil 5 oz. Shea butter 13.75 oz. Lye 20 oz. Rain or distilled water 16 oz. pureed cucumber, (peels and all!) Instructions: Mix lye and water and cool to 90 degrees. Puree the cucumbers, will be about 2 or 3 large cukes. Heat the oils to 90 degrees. Mix lye solution and the oils, blend well, add the cucumber puree. Bring to light trace, add fragrance of your choice. Bring to heavy trace. Pour in molds. LEAVE IT ALONE. :-) Notes: Even in very hard water it has lots of lather, very creamy, and is very soothing to the skin. Uncolored, it is very lovely pale ivory, slightly translucent. No GSE (Grapefruit Seed Extract) needed. If you choose to modify this recipe by subbing other oils or butters, it will not be remotely the same unbelievably wonderful soap.
Tons of Bubbles
Submitted by Dawn of Gladstone, MI This recipe gives tons of big bubbles! 3 lb. batch Ingredients: 8 oz. sweet almond oil 2 oz. castor oil 10 oz. coconut oil 10 oz. olive oil 8 oz. safflower oil 10 oz. vegetable shortening 7 oz. lye (5% superfat) 17 oz. water Instructions: Follow basic cold process soapmaking procedures.
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Vitamin Soap
Submitted by Kathryn of Verona, NJ This soap nourishes the skin in every way possible. Ingredients (by weight): Lye Solution: 3 lbs (48 oz) distilled water 475g Sodium Hydroxide Fats: 2-1/2 lbs (40 oz) Coconut Oil 1-1/2 lbs (24 oz) Palm Oil 1-3/4 lbs (28 oz) Olive Oil, Grade B or pomace (2 lbs less 1/2 cup) 1 oz (2 tbsp) Wheat Germ Oil 1 oz (2 tbsp) Carrot Seed Essential Oil 1 oz (2 tbsp) Carrot Root Oil 1 oz (2 tbsp) Vitamin E Oil 1/2 lb (8 oz) Sweet Almond Oil 1/2 lb (8 oz) Apricot Kernel Oil 1/2 lb (8 oz) Kukui Nut Oil 1/2 lb (8 oz) Jojoba Oil 4 oz Shea Butter 30g Grapefruit Seed Extract Nutrients: 2 oz (4 tbsp) Avocado Oil 2 oz (4 tbsp) Evening Primrose Oil, Borage Oil or Rosa Mosqueta Rosehip seed Oil Scent: 45-50g (about 3 oz) essential oils Instructions: Add lye to water and let cool to 80 degrees. Melt fats and let cool to 80-90 degrees. Add lye to fats and stir briskly for up to one hour til it traces. Add nutrients and essential oils, stir to combine and pour into molds. Cover with blankets and allow to sit for 24 to 48 hours until it stops generating heat. When hard (up to a week), cut and remove from mold. Set out to dry and cure for 4-6 weeks.
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Youthful Complexion
Submitted by Kim of Winter Haven, FL Designed specifically to be healthy for maturing skin Ingredients: Oils 1.6 oz Sweet Almond Oil 0.6 oz Cocoa Butter 9.6 oz Olive Oil 8.0 oz Palm Kernel Oil 12.2 oz Shortening (veg) 4.5 oz Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH/Lye) 11.5 oz Water Additives 1.4 oz total of Essential/Fragrance Oil Essential Oil: Roman Chamomile; .2 oz. Essential Oil: Rose Bulgarian; .2 oz. Essential Oil: Lavender; 1 oz. Dried Herbs: 1 oz total: Rose Powder, Chamomile powder and Calendula powder Instructions: Make soap according to basic soaping instructions. The EOs are expensive but more than worth it. Add the dried herbs just before pouring into molds. I usually make this recipe in a PVC tube mold
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Creams
Basic Hand & Body Cream
Doesnt leave greasy feel. Great for winter dry skin. Ingredients: 1/3 cup Ex-Virgin Olive Oil 1 T Aloe Vera Oil 2 T Cocunut Oil 1 T Beeswax 4 T Hydrosol Essential oils (optional) Instructions: Mix together Olive Oil and Aloe Vera Oil. Set aside. Melt Coconut Oil and Beeswax. Add olive oil and aloe oil to this mixture. Add hydrosol while blending in processor until smooth. Transfer to jars and let cool. Basic Hand & Body Cream
Cucumber Cream
Submitted by Yohana of Voorhees, NJ Ingredients: 1/4-teaspoon borax powder 1/4-cup fractionated coconut oil or any light oil 1 tablespoon distilled water 1-tablespoon beeswax 1-tablespoon fresh cucumber juice 8 drops Grapefruit Seed Extract Cucumber Fragrance oil if desired Jade or emerald mica for color if desired Instructions: Dissolve borax in the water and add the grapefruit seed extract. Mix together oil and beeswax in another cup. Place the glass cup in a pan of water (about 1-2 inches of water). Heat the oilbeeswax mixture in the water bath over medium heat until beeswax is melted, stirring occasionally. Bring this mixture almost to boiling. Remove the mixture from the water bath. Slowly add the borax-water mixture to it. Add the cucumber juice and stir thoroughly. You can whip the mixture in the blender. Add the Fragrance oil if using and cool completely. Take a small amount of cream and mix the mica into it removing all of the clumps. Add the colored cream back to the main batch and blend well.
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Lavendar Cream
Nourishing Aromatherapeutic cream Ingredients: 1 oz beeswax 1 oz of floral water or hydrosol(preferably lavendar, violet or rose) 1 oz of emu oil 2 oz of lecithin Pinch of borax 1/2 tsp of pure lavendar essential oil Instructions: Melt beeswax. When melted add oils and lecithin and reheat. Remove from heat and briskly whip in the borax dissolved in the floral water. When mixture begins to thicken add the lavendar oil. When nearly cold put in jars. You can substitute Lavendar oil with Rose, Rose Geranium, Clary Sage, Tuberose etc.
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Skin Butter
Submitted by Stephanie of Nashville, TN Thick moisturizer for dry skin Ingredients: 2 oz shea butter 1/2 oz jojoba oil 1/2 oz meadowfoam 1 oz olive or coconut oil a few drops of favorite essential or fragrance oil Instructions: Thoroughly mix all ingredients together for a thick creamy skin butter that will absorb well and moisturize even the driest skin. *To revitalize dry cracked skin on heels of feet, apply skin butter at night and cover feet in plastic wrap and socks. Skin will be smooth and soft in the morning.
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Whipped Creme
Submitted by Mary of Waterbury, CT Wonderful all over body/face cream Ingredients: 14 oz. distilled water 4 oz. vegetable oil or oil blend of your choice - I love Jojoba 1.5 oz. emulsifying wax 1.2 oz. stearic acid .8 oz citric acid .2 oz Germaben II .1 oz. fragrance Oil or essential Oil 2 drops FDC dye of you choice Instructions: Whipped Creme This is a very light cream good for all body areas.....its especially nice when scented with cucumber and tinted very pale green. All items used to make cream should be sterilized. Combine citric acid and water over double boiler water until the citric acid dissolves and then add all the remaining ingredients except fragrance, color, and Germaben II. When the mixture turns a creamy color, pour into a blender and whip off and on until it cools ( this can take quite a while ). I usually whip it for 5 minutes let it cool 10 minutes and so on. Add remaining ingredients and whip some more. You dont want it to get so cool that you cant pour it. This will thicken in jars as it cools more. Makes approximately 20 ounces of cream. I hope you enjoy this as much as my family and I do.
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For Baby
Anti-Septic Tincture
Submitted by Jennifer of Hersey, MI For keeping umbilical cord free of infection and promoting fast fall off Ingredients: 1 tsp. goldenseal herb c/s 1/4 tsp. myhrr gum 1/4 tsp. calendula herb c/s 1 C. Everclear Instructions: Place herbs in glass jar and cover with alcohol. Let sit for 2 weeks, shaking jar each day. Strain and bottle.
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Baby Soap
Submitted by Bonnie of Cedar City, UT Ingredients: 194 g lye 19 oz water 8 oz sweet almond oil 7 oz jojoba 2 oz castor oil 4 oz shea butter 19 oz coconut oil 14 oz palm oil 1 oz vitamin E oil Instructions: Heat oils to 100 degrees. Combine lye and water and cool to 100 degrees. Combine oils and lye/ water mixing well. At trace add the vitamin E oil. Pour into a mold and proceed as you would with cold process soap.
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Baby Washbags
Use these washbags as a gentle soap-free cleanser for baby. Ingredients: Muslin bags Lavender bud powder Chamomile powder Colloidal oatmeal fine Cornstarch A few drops of jojoba or other oil Instructions: Combine all the ingredients in a blender and thouroughly mix. Pour a small amount into the muslin bag. When bathing baby, soften bag in bath water, then gently squeeze muslin bag over baby and rub lightly with bag.
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Diaper Ointment
Ingredients: 16 oz Sweet Almond Oil 8 oz Shea Butter 8 oz Jojoba Oil 4.5 oz Virgin Coconut Oil 4.5 oz Beeswax 2 Drops Calendula Absolute Instructions: Mix oils, butter and beeswax together in double boiler until wax and butter is melted. Then add the Calendula and stir. Add 1% Tea Tree, Lavender and Chamomile essential oils (combined volume). Pour into jars.
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Bath Cookies
Submitted by Maryam of Lexington, VA Ingredients: 2 cups sea salt fine grain 1/2 cup baking soda 1/2 cup cornstarch 2 T fractionated coconut oil or hazelnut oil 2 eggs 6 drops essential oil Instructions: Mix ingredients well to form a dough. Roll out and cut with small cookie cutters. Bake at 350 for 10 minutes. Use 1-2 cookies per bath.
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Oatmeal-Salt Bath
Submitted by Darlene of Penna. Furnace, PA The oatmeal makes the water look murky, but it feels wonderful. Ingredients: 1/2 cup powdered oatmeal 1/4 cup sea salt 1/4 cup epsom salt 1/4 cup baking soda 10 drops sandalwood essential (or fragrance) oil 7-8 drops ylang ylang essential (or fragrance) oil 7-8 drops tangerine essential oil Instructions: Combine all dry ingredients in a food processor and pulse. To keep from getting the essential/ fragrance oils in my food processor, I transfer approx. 1/2 cup or so of the dry ingredients to a zip lock bag. Add the oils to the bag, seal it, and shake well to incorporate the oils into the dry ingredients and break up any clumps. Once it is well mixed, add the rest of the dry ingredient mixture to the bag and shake some more until it is well mixed. Store in an air tight container. (Could leave in the sealed bag if you plan on using it in the near future.) Use approx. 1/4 - 2/3 cup per bath.
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Silk Soak
Submitted by Annette of Eugene, OR Sunflower seeds, oatmeal, milk bath Ingredients: 1 part sunflower seeds 1 part corn starch 2 parts finely ground oats 2 parts milk powder Fragrance Instructions: Coarsly grind the seeds in a blender or food processor. Add the other ingredients and mix thoroughly. Fragrance with oils or dry ingredients. Because the sunflower seeds are so fragrant, earthy scents like nutmeg, almond and comfrey work well. I prefer to use dry fragrances but oils work well too. This luxurious bath combines the skin soothing properties of oatmeal with softening milk and corn starch. The ground seeds release their natural oils when added to a hot bath.
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Thalasso Therapy
Thalasso comes from the Greek word that means ocean and the word therapy from the Greek word therapeia for care. Thalssotherapy involves using a therapeutic combination of fresh seawater, seaweed, marine derivatives, and heat to induce an exchange of minerals and toxins between our body and the water. The bath should draw out the toxins while the skin absorbs the nutrients, namely sodium, iodine, magnesium, potassium, fluoride, sulfur, carbonates, phosphates, chloride, vitamins, minerals, amino acids and trace elements from the bath. Seaweed is a concentrated source of seawater nutrients. The temperature of the bath should be around 100 F for maximum vasodilatation and exchange of toxins/nutrients. After a thalassotherapy bath, you will feel rejuvenated and relaxed. Also use powdered sea vegetables in facial packs, hair wraps, soaps, salt scrubs etc. Thalassotherapy bath mix recipe: 1 cup powdered dulse 1 cup powdered bladderwrack 1 cup powdered Norwegian Kelp 1 cup nori, ground 2 cups dead sea clay 4 cups dead sea salt (medium grain or 6 cups coarse) 1 cup mixed herbs if desired. Mix ingredients well and store in a glass jar. Pour out 3 cups in a hot bath and soak for 20 minutes.
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Ayurvedic Facial
This is an old facial recipe from India Ingredients: 1/4 cup neem powder 1/4 cup tulsi powder 1/4 cup sandalwood powder or multani mitti clay 1/4 cup rose petal powder 1/2 t turmeric powder Plain yogurt Fresh lime juice Instructions: Mix dry ingredients together and keep in a glass container. For application, mix 2 T of the mixture with the juice of 1 small lime and enough plain yogurt to form a thick paste. Apply to the face and allow it to dry. Rinse with warm water. Use this facial once a week for acne prone, oily or blemished skin.
Balancing Moisturizer
Submitted by Stephanie of Conway, AR This is a simple facial oil that works wonderfully on my combination skin. I use it as a luxury body and hair oil also. Ingredients: 1 part jojoba 1 part avocado oil 1 part peach kernel oil 3 parts rice bran oil Essential oil. Instructions: Combine ingredients and mix together. I mixed this in a 1/2 oz cobalt dropper bottle. I added 5 drops of rosewood to the 1/2 oz of oils for its balancing properties, but other EOs could be substituted. I use just 2-3 drops of this on my face. Ive also used it as a body and hair oil.
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Clay Facial
Instructions: Choose the right clay for your skin type (see Library for information regarding clays). Choose a wetting agent. While plain water will do just fine, you can also try wetting agents such as fruit purees (strawberry puree will act like an alphahydroxy), cucumber puree (cools the skin), yogurt (cools and softens the skin), milk (removes dead skin cells and softens the skin), honey (acts as an anti bacterial), & rosewater or other floral waters ( a nice substitute for plain water). Make a thick paste of the clay. You can also add citrus peel powders for astringency, rose petal powder for fragrance, neem powder for anti bacterial action (especially useful for acne prone skin), colloidal oatmeal for soothing the skin, and/or milk powders. Essential oils can be added and jojoba is a good additive to help balance dry spots. Apply the mask to your skin and let it dry for 20 minutes. Rinse well with warm water and pat dry. Repeat weekly.
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Facial Toner
Ingredients: 1/3 Cup witch hazel and 2/3 cup of your favorite floral water Add 1 t - 1T of jojoba Add 7 drops of lavender, geranium or rose oil Instructions: Shake well before each use.
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Lecithin Moisturizer
Submitted by Yohana of Voorhees, NJ Ingredients: 1 T liquid lecithin 2 T fractionated coconut, macadamia nut, flaxseed or other light vegetable oil 1 T virgin coconut oil 1 t rice bran oil 1/8 t borax 1/2 cup distilled water 1-2 drops neroli or rose essential oil (optional) or 1-2 drops any fragrance oil for scent (optional) Instructions: Mix together the lecithin, vegetable oil, coconut oil and rice bran oil. In a separate container dissolve borax in the distilled water. Gently heat the lecithin and oils until the coconut oil melts. Heat the borax-water solution. You could heat in the microwave (for 45 seconds on High) or in a water bath. Pour the heated solution into the lecithin and oils. Stir until well mixed. You can use the blender. Add essential oil, cool completely and pour into a clean container. You can adjust the consistency by adding less or more water.
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Moisturizing Cleanser
Dry Skin Cleansing Cream Ingredients: 1/2 oz. Beeswax 1 oz. Lanolin 2 oz. Almond Oil 1 oz. Avocado Oil 1 oz. Grapeseed Oil 2 drops Clary-Sage Essential Oil 2 drops Lemon Essential Oil 3 oz. Spring Water Instructions: Using a double boiler, melt beeswax, lanolin, and oils. Stir well. When melted, take off heat and add essential oils, then water. Wisk until cool.
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Other possible additives include powdered chamomile, comfrey or lavender and of course essential oils (not added until ready to use). Carrot seed oil, geranium & lavender are all good choices. You can also add a few drops of jojoba, vitamin E oil, camelina oil, carrot oil, or any other desired oil for extra moisturizing. This mix can be made into a paste with any wetting agent and applied to the skin with circular strokes. Leave on for 20 minutes and rinse with warm water. Possible wetting agents: Yogurt - to soften, moisturize, remove dead skin cells and cool Honey - antibacterial Milk - softens Heavy cream - moisturizes Cucumber puree - Cools and cleans Strawberry puree - acta as a natural alphahydroxy agent Floral waters - for fragrance
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Skin Astingent
Submitted by Charlean of Hopewell, VA Removes dirt Ingredients: 2 bags of green tea 1 tablespoon rosemary 16 oz boiling water 1/2 cup witch hazel 5 drops lavender essential oil juice from a half of lemon Instructions: Place rosemary into a strainer or muslin bag and place it into a glass container. and the tea bags and pour the water into it.Let it stand until its completely cool.Then add the witch hazel,lemon juice and lavender oil. Store in the fridge. It may separate so shake before use.
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Hair Lotion
Submitted by Tiffany of Cartersville, GA Moisturizes dry hair Ingredients: 2 oz olive oil or olive oil blend (mix with whatever oils you like best, such as virgin coconut, jojoba, macadamia nut, etc.) 1-2 tbsp melted shea butter or mango butter 2 oz liquid lecithin 4 oz water Favorite essential oil or fragrance oil, if desired Instructions: Combine all ingredients in a double boiler and warm until melted. Blend well and transfer to a bottle. If mixture is too thin, add a little more lecithin. If it is too thick, add a little more water. Adjust recipe depending on how much lotion you wish to make. Shake before each use.
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Hair Oil
Submitted by Tiffany of Cartersville, GA an oil for moisturizing dry hair Ingredients: 1 C herb infused olive oil 1 C liquid lecithin 1 T of melted shea butter A few squirts of jojoba oil A few drops essential oil for scent Instructions: Melt the oils and pour into a bottle. Use only a small amount at a time. I like to infuse my olive oil with conditioning herbs like rosemary, nettle, and chamomile leaves for a special conditioning treat. You can do this by putting the dry herbs in a big jar, then put the jar outside in sun and leave it for a week. Be sure to shake it up everyday. Then strain oil through cheesecloth or a fine strainer to remove herbs. Or, you can put the herbs in a large, plastic measuring cup, pour the oil over the herbs and put the measuring cup inside a large pan filled with water. Simmer over low heat for about and hour, then strain.
Hair Rinse
Submitted by Tiffany of Cartersville, GA Ingredients: 1 heaping tbsp of each herb (see below) 1 quart boiling water 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar For dry hair, try the following herbs: chamomile flowers, nettle, comfrey root, elder flowers For oily hair: lemon peel, lemongrass, peppermint For general care: nettle, elder flowers, rosemary leaves, burdock root Instructions: Make an infusion of the herbs, steeping at least 30 minutes. Strain and add vinegar. Pour mixture over hair, catch the run-off in a bowl and pour over hair repeatedly. You will get the benefits of the herbs, while the vinegar seals the hair cuticle, making the hair soft, shiny, and less tangled. Use after shampooing.
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Herbal Shampoo
Submitted by Tiffany of Cartersville, GA A natural shampoo for the hair Ingredients: 3 oz Liquid Castile Soap 1 heaping tbsp Chamomile Flowers 1 heaping tbsp Nettle Leaves 1 heaping tbsp Sage Leaves 1 heaping tbsp Rosemary Leaves Jojoba Oil (for extra conditioningoptional) Few drops each of rosemary and lavender oils 3 cups boiling water Instructions: Mix herbs together in a bowl. Add water to herbs, cover and let steep at least 30 minutes. Pour castile soap into a bottle. Strain herbs and funnel into soap. Add a few squirts of jojoba oil and essential oils, if desired. Shake well before each use to mix the oil with the soap. Shampoo will be very runny, but also very concentrated, so use only a little bit when shampooing. **Note** Feel free to experiment with different herbs and essential oils for this recipe.
Loc Butter
Submitted by Lori of Kansas City, MO Shea butter recipe for loc care and maintenance Ingredients: 2 Tbsp shea butter 2 Tbsp mango butter 2 Tbsp coconut oil 1 tsp lanolin 1 tsp sweet almond oil 1 tsp jojoba 1 tsp avocado oil 10 drops-ylang-ylang 1/8 tsp vanilla fragrance oil (or fragrance oil of your choice) Instructions: Melt ingredients together, pour in container and let cool. Good for hair and skin. Makes approximately 4 ounces.
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the soap will reach a stage where it is as smooth as it will get and the texture doesnt change anymore. You can then add your additives and stir well. Let it cook a little while longer, again stirring every so often and checking the bottom. Sometimes the soap will become a complete liquid, sometimes it wont really liquefy. Either way, as long as the consistency remains the same for a long time, it is ready to remove from the heat. Let it cool a little bit. Once the soap has cooled down somewhat, you can either pour or push (depending on how liquid the soap is) it into a mold/molds or you can whip it with an egg beater to make floating soaps. (Spoon the whipped soap into molds.) Cover the molds and place them in a warm place for 48 hours until the soap hardens. Un mold, cut if necessary and allow it to cure for 3 weeks.
Lavender/Chamomile Soap
Submitted by Connie of Tempe, AZ A wonderful relaxing evening soap Ingredients: 1 lb. soap (I use goats milk) 1/8 c. distilled water 2 T. Fine Ground Chamomile 2 T. Ground Lavender buds 1/8 c. Emu oil (optional) 5 drops lavender ess. oil 2 drops roman chamomile ess. oil Instructions: In double boiler, slowly melt soap with water. When it reaches a jelly-like consitence gently stir in herbs, emu oil and essential oils. Carefully pour into prepared molds. Wait 24 hours and remove from molds. Let cure for about 4 weeks. This is so gentle and relaxing I use it on my children.
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Wake-me-up Soap
Submitted by Cori of Chandler, AZ A wonderful morning soap to get you going. Ingredients: 1 cup grated soap 1/8 cup safflower oil 1/8 cup coconut oil 1/8 cup water 5 drops of peppermint oil 1/2 teaspoon on dried peppermint leaves 3 drops of rosemary oil Instructions: Grate the soap and mix with the safflower oil, coconut oil and water. Slowly heat this in a double boiler over medium heat until the soap is completely mixed and has a stringy texture. Take off of the heat and mix the peppermint oil, leaves and rosemary. Mix it well and put into the proper molds. Makes about 2 large rectangular bars.
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Lip Balms
Apricot-Orange Lip Gloss
Submitted by Helle of Brabrand, ALL Ingredients: 1 tsp. beeswax 1 tsp. apricot kernel oil 1 tsp. calendula oil 3-4 drops of essential oil of orange Mica for coloring or beet root infused oil (optional) Instructions: Add apricot kernel oil and calendula oil, stirring constantly. Remove from heat, add FDA approved mica or beet root infused oil if desired for color. When partially cooled, add essential oil of orange. Pour into lip balm jars or tubes. This is the best lip gloss......good luck!
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Lotions
All-Over Lotion
Submitted by Rachel of Urbana, IA A good basic lotion that makes 8 oz. and can be used year-round. Ingredients: 1 oz Glycerin 1 oz Stearic Acid 1 oz Emulsifying Wax 2 oz Sweet Almond or Jojoba Oil 3 oz distilled water 1/2 t grapefruit seed extract 1/2 t fragrance oil (opt) Instructions: Measure out first 5 ingredients and put into a 2 cup glass measuring cup. Microwave 2 1/2 minutes or until solid ingredients are melted. Blend with stick blender until fully blended. Add preservative and fragrance oil and blend until incorporated. Pour into an 8 oz container and seal tightly. Shake periodically until cool and enjoy!
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Creme de la Cream
Submitted by Andrea of Worcester, MA A thick, easily absorbed body cream Ingredients: Water Phase: Distilled Water 12.8 oz Baking Soda 0.1 oz Corn Starch 0.05 oz Oil Phase Grapeseed Oil 2 oz Manog Butter 0.15 oz Shea Butter 0.15 oz Stearic Acid 0.3 oz Citric Acid 0.1 oz Soy Letchin 0.1 oz E-Wax 0.8 oz Phenonip(or other appropriate preservative) 0.1 oz Instructions: Combine and heat oil phase until fully incorporates. Heat water phase and dissolve baking soda and cornstarch completely. Cool both phases slightly. While blending (stick blender is best)the oils, SLOWLY add the water phase. Keep blending. As cream cools, it becomes VERY thick. If using phenonip, you can add when mixture is still hot. Check with manufacturer for other preservatives. When COMPLETELY cool, transfer to jars. I scent as I go by heating the cream slightly, then adding scent and/or color. This will depend on your preservative. Also, you can put cream into a zip bag, add color/scent, close and squish until mixed. Cut corner from bag and pipe into containers.
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Eczema Soother
Submitted by Anna-maria of Sarasota, FL Oil Combo for Eczema Sufferers Ingredients: 4 oz jojoba oil 20 drops evening primrose oil 12 drops lavender essential oil 12 drops roman camomile essential oil Instructions: Combine all ingredients. Use as a daily lubricant on the skin. This has worked WONDERS on my little boy (21 months) who suffers with a bad case of eczema. It has been the only remedy that has worked for him. It stops him from breaking out with the red, itchy patches and keeps his VERY dry skin nicely lubricated. His skin will sometimes still get irritated when he comes in contact with an allergen. As soon as I see it starting to get red and inflamed, I rub on the oil and it stops it from getting any worse. By the next day, his skin is back to normal.
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Masks
Beautys Secret
Submitted by Marc of Oroville, CA Skin Re-Vitalizing Mask Ingredients: 1 tsp Rose Clay 1 egg white 1/16th tsp Neem Powder 1/2 tsp oat starch Rose hydrosol Instructions: Mix all of the ingredients except the rose hydrosol. When this is mixed thoroughly, slowly add the rose hydrosol to the desired consistency. Apply to face and allow to dry for 15 min. Wash face with mild soap and water. Pat dry. The neem powder is especially good for acne prone skin.
Body Clay
Submitted by Tracy of Montreal, QC For all skin type, even can be used for facial mask Ingredients: Dry Lavender 2tbsp Dry Rose buds 2tbsp Water 100ml Honey 1tbsp Fresh Sour Cream 1tbsp Sweet Almond Oil 1tsp Clay(Fuller or whatever suits better for your skin type) 100g Orange Essentil Oil 3drops Instructions: 1. Boil water in a stainless steel pot, put the dry lavender and rose buds in, close the lid, simmer for 10 mins. Cool it and filter the water. 2. Put the honey, sour cream, sweet almond oil into the cooled infusion, blend it well and add the clay slowly until its smooth and pasty. 3. Before use, add 3 drops of Orange (or other) Essential Oil to scent it. Take a warm bath before using this therapy. Put the clay over the body, and massage it gently, let it stay for three minutes. When the body feels warm from the clay, take a cool shower to clean the body.
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Earth Tones
Submitted by Carrie of Rochester, NY Has a light earthy smell to it, works wonderfully. Ingredients: 1 lb. unscented clear glycerine melt & pour base 1 1/2tsp. ground cinnamon, divided 10 drops sweet orange essential oil 5 drops lavender essential oil 1 drop rosemary essential oil 1 tsp. sunflower oil Instructions: Combine essential oils and 1/2 tsp. cinnamon in glass mixing bottle, set aside. Cut melt & pour soap into 1 inch cubes, place into top of double boiler. Heat over low-medium heat until beginning to melt. Sprinkle cinnamon evenly over soap, stirring gently, being careful to avoid over stirring. Continue melting until soap is completely melted, remove from heat and immediately add sunflower oil, and essential oil blend, stirring gently. Pour into prepared molds. Let set for 5-6 hours or overnight, gently remove soap from molds, cut into slices if necessary, and store in a cool, dry, dark place for at least 1 week, flipping bars daily to prevent warping. Should make an amber colored soap with a darker layer where the cinnamon settles, like an amber sunset.
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MP Base Geode
Ingredients: 1- 3" x 5" x 1" slab of violet base 1-3 slabs of coconut opaque base 3 - 5 slabs of coconut clear base Ultramarines and oxides and earthy toned micas (pick rock tones for a natural looking geode or just pick your six year olds 5 favorite colors) Oil for dispersing pigments Instructions: Hold the slab of violet base in your hand and with a sharp knife, cut criss cross cuts 1/8 of an inch deep into the 1" width of the slab. When you have covered the surface with cuts, slice down through the slab slicing off the tiny irregular shaped pieces. Crumble with your hand and chop up into smaller pieces if necessary. Keep repeating this process until you have about 1 cup of tiny crystal-like pieces of soap. Melt some clear base (dont make it so hot that you cant touch it) and with your hands firmly pack the crystals into a ball using some of the clear melted base as glue to help hold it together. You may not need any if the soap is sticky enough. When you have packed a firm ball, start dipping it into the clear base and use you hands to mold and firm the clear soap around the ball. The soap will cool quickly and most of it will stick to your hands as you work. Just peel the soap off your hands and place it back into the pan of melted soap. Remelt if the base cools too much. Keep dipping and molding. Do this until you have a good solid layer holding the crystals together. Melt some opaque base and dip the ball into the opaque white base until you have a thin layer of white. Then color some melted clear base. Start dipping your ball into the colored base until you have a good solid color. Then do another color and then maybe some more white and then more color and then more white until your geode starts to approach a good 4-5 inches across. Keep the white layers thin but make the colored layers about 1/8 -3/8 inch thick. Then color some of your base with an earthy grayish color to start forming the outer layer. Dip your geode until you have a good layer of rock color. Mix together some earthy micas (gold, blue violet, topaz, bronze). Dip your geode in some melted base and start throwing on some micas and you use your fingers to smooth the mica into the soft base. Keep working the mica into the outer layer. When youre satisfied with the last layer of your geode, put it down and do some major cleaning up! Get some rest and 48 hours later, you will be ready to take a sharp non-serrated knife to your geode. Use one motion to slice through. It might help to warm the knife slightly over a fire but if you make it too hot, it tends to melt the various colors all over each other so resist the urge to go this route. You will be amazed at your geode!
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Oil Blends
Oil Blend: Eczema
1 oz. Camelina Oil 2 oz. Flax Seed Oil or Tamanu Oil 1 oz. Calendula Oil 2 oz. Emu Oil 2 oz. Seabuckthorn Oil
Use these oil blends as your basis for body oils, breams, lotions, lip balms, body butters or add to bath bombs, salt scrubs or even as a soap superfatting blend.
Use these oil blends as your basis for body oils, breams, lotions, lip balms, body butters or add to bath bombs, salt scrubs or even as a soap superfatting blend.
Use these oil blends as your basis for body oils, breams, lotions, lip balms, body butters or add to bath bombs, salt scrubs or even as a soap superfatting blend.
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Use these oil blends as your basis for body oils, breams, lotions, lip balms, body butters or add to bath bombs, salt scrubs or even as a soap superfatting blend.
Use these oil blends as your basis for body oils, breams, lotions, lip balms, body butters or add to bath bombs, salt scrubs or even as a soap superfatting blend.
Use these oil blends as your basis for body oils, breams, lotions, lip balms, body butters or add to bath bombs, salt scrubs or even as a soap superfatting blend.
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Ointments
Calendula & Plantain Ointment
Submitted by Jennifer of Hersey, MI A good all around ointment to soothe irritated skin.. Ingredients: 1/2 C. Dried Calendula Petals 1/2 C. Dried Plantain Leaves Olive Oil to cover About 1 Tbl. Beeswax Instructions: Place herbs in glass bowl over simmering water (or double broiler), cover with oil. Warm the oil stirring often for about 2 - 3 hours. Strain. Place herbs back in bowl over steaming water and add enough beeswax to create the desired consistancy. Pour into lip balm jars.
Darlenes Ointment #1
Submitted by Darlene of Penna. Furnace, PA Easy to make basic ointment. I made this is a small batch as an experiment and loved it. It could be made in larger quantities to suite your needs. Ingredients: 3/4 Tbsp. beeswax pellets 1 1/2 Tbsp. cocoa butter, grated (as noted below) 1/2 Tbsp. coconut oil 1 Tbsp. almond oil 1/2 Tbsp. jojoba oil 3 drops patchouli e.o. 3 drops lavender e.o. Note: I purchase my cocoa butter in chunks and use the grater blade in a food processor to grate it. I store the grated cocoa butter in a tightly sealed glass jar. Grating the cocoa butter ahead of time makes it very easy to use when needed. Instructions: While waiting for the water to heat in the double boiler, partially submerge the sealed bottle of coconut oil in hot water in the sink to liquify it. When the double boiler is ready, melt the beeswax pellets and grated cocoa butter. Remove from heat and add all of the oils. I use a clean wooden chopstick to stir everything together. Let cool slightly. Stir in the essential oils. Pour into a clean glass jar and seal tightly. Label the jar with the ingredients and date it was made. ENJOY!
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Alluring
Submitted by Kathy of Lansford, PA All-Natural Alluring Perfume Blend Ingredients: Essential Oils: 7 drops Sandalwood 7 drops Patchouli 3 drops Italian Neroli 1 drop Jasmine Absolute (India) 1 drop Jasmine Absolute (Egypt) Base: 10ml Everclear or high-proof (100+) vodka Instructions: To a 1/2 ounce (15ml) amber glass bottle, add Essential Oils one at a time. Roll the bottle between your palms gently and allow to settle for a day or two. Add alcohol (vodka), and allow blend to age for at least 2-3 weeks before use. Shake periodically to disperse oils. This blend can be further diluted in distilled water and used as a spritzer. Exquisite aroma.
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Potpourri
Basic Potpourri
Instructions: Choosing the botanicals: Decide on a color scheme. It can be very natural and earthy looking or very brilliant. It can be made with 2 colors or many colors. It can be simple white and gold. Or, if you have a fragrance in mind, you may want to pick colors that seem to go with the fragrance. For example, vanilla you immediately think of whites and natural colors not bright orange. Or Holiday Spice, reminds you of warm reds, oranges, greens and browns perhaps but not navy blue. Once youve decided on your colors, you want to decide which color or colors will be most predominant. Pick a botanical or a few botanicals in that color. It helps to pick a variety of sizes or textures. For instance, if you want the base color to be white, you can choose white globe amaranths and white angel wings which are different in size, shape and texture. Then start choosing botanicals and spices and dried fruits from your other color groups. Remember to pick various shapes and sizes. For instance, if you are choosing browns, you will want to choose from a variety of cones, cinnamon sticks, nuts, pods etc. You may wish to add a highlight to your mix such as gold, or white or black or any other contrasting color. Choose a botanical that is bold and large like pomegranates or orange slices or gold amra nuts. You will only need a few pieces of this item. Choose an appropriate fragrance (if you started with a fragrance in mind you are ready to start mixing). Putting it together: Place your base color botanical in a large mixing container or bucket. If you are using more than one botanical for the predominant color, combine them one at a time, cup by cup, until you are pleased with the overall texture. Make a note of how many cups of each botanical you used so you can adjust the proportions as you go and be able to reproduce the mix again later. Start adding the botanicals from your other color groups one at a time making sure to record how many cups of each you used. Do not add the highlight botanical pieces yet ( you will want to add these after you have packaged your potpourri so that they stand out). If it seems like you base color got overwhelmed by the colors, go back and add more of the base color botanicals to bring it back in balance. Once you like the proportions of your botanicals you are ready to add the fragrance. The easiest easy way to add scent to the botanicals is to use a spray bottle and to mix the botanicals as you spray them with essential or fragrance oil. Allow the oil to soak in. Mix well without crushing the botanicals making sure that there are no pools of oil anywhere. Now you are ready to package your potpourri. Package your potpourri in cello bags, clear acetate boxes, glass apothecary jars or anything else that will show off the blend. Cello bags are a nice inexpensive way to package potpourri. A wide ribbon in one of your colors can be used to tie off the bag. Cardboard boxes with clear acetate
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covers are nice too and can be found at most packaging supplies. Ribbons or natural raffia ties are a nice touch. Before sealing the package add the highlight pieces one by one so they stand out where they can be seen against the packaging.
Citrus Potpourri
Submitted by Kimberly of Malaga, NJ Ingredients: 3 Limes 3 Lemons 2 Oranges or Tangerines Orange,lemon,lime or patchouli fragrance oil Orange Cedarchips, Albezzia leaves, Birch cones, Lily Petals, Orange & Light Green Star Flowers, Natural Angel Wings and any other botanical you like Instructions: 1. Slice all the fruit into thin slices. 2. To dry the fruit out, you can either use a food dehydrator or place them on a cookie sheet lined with wax paper and place it in the oven on very very low heat. Ive found that the dehydrator works the best. You can place the fruit in there and just let it go, without tying up your oven.(food dehydrators can be bought at your local wal-mart. I got mine for $20) 3. Dry it out until it is a light brown color, and has almost no smell to it. (If using a food dehydrator, this will take a few days. Times vary for ovens) 4. Place all the dried fruit and the botanicals into 2 large sandwich plastic bags. Add about 5-10 drops of your prefered fragrance. 5. Close the bags with a twist tie, and put it in a dark area for 2 weeks. Remember to shake the bag up every couple of days. 6.After the two weeks is up, open the bag. If you want a stronger smell, and some more fragrance oil and repeat the last step
Fresh Pear
Submitted by Michele of Jenison, MI Ingredients: 1/4 C. Oakmoss 1/2 C. Ginger Slices 1/4 C. Sunflower Petals 5 Mango Pods 1/2 C. White Angel Wings 1/4 C. Rose Petals 1/4 C. Albezzia Leaves 1/4 C Starflower Light Green 2 tsp. Sun Ripened Pear FO Instructions: In glass jar, layer all ingredients with Mango Pods and Oakmoss on top. Add FO to oakmoss and Arti Pods. Allow to sit a minute and then toss together. Let rest 2 weeks in dark spot. Check scent. Add more FO if desired. Allow to sit another 2 weeks. Package.
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Heather Potpourri
Submitted by Michele of Jenison, MI 2-1/2 C. Dusty Lavender & Rose Ingredients: 3/4 C. Mauve Orchids 3/4 C. Oakmoss in bite-size pieces 1/4 C. Purple Angel Wings 1/4 C. Purple Larkspur 1/2 C. White Milo Berries 2 tsp. Heather Fragrance Oil Instructions: In glass jar, layer Orchids, Milo Berries, and then Oak Moss on top. Add FO to oakmoss and allow it to sit a minute. Toss together, cap the jar and let sit, in the dark, for two weeks. Open the jar. Rescent if necessary (if you prefer a stronger scent), and allow to sit another week. Add the Angel Wings and larkspur. Toss all together and let sit another week. Package.
Mardi Gras
Submitted by Michele of Jenison, MI 2-1/2 C. Fresh Multi Color Ingredients: 1/4 C. ea.: Red Milo Berries Rhododendron Leaves Purple Angel Wings Red Velvet Flowers Sunflower Petals Bleached Polbosa Orange Peel Ribbons Pink Angel Wings Gold Curly Pods Burgundy Hibiscus Flowers Instructions: In glass jar, layer all ingredients BUT angel wings, placing polbosa on top. Add FO, let sit a minute, toss all together. Cap jar and let rest 2 weeks in a dark place. Check scent. Add more FO to polbosa if desired. Let sit 2 more weeks. Package.
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Nostalgia Potpourri
Submitted by Michele of Jenison, MI 2-1/2 C. Old Fashioned Christmas Ingredients: 1/4 C. Cranberry Milo Berries 1/8 C. Purple Angel Wings 1/4 C. Red Rose Petals 1/4 C. Red Velvet Flower 1/4 C. Green Kernifern 1/8 C. Rhododendron or Eucalyptus Leaves 1/2 C. Oakmoss 1/4 C. Purple Larkspur 1/2 C. Gold Curly Pods 3/4 tsp. Cranberry FO 3/4 tsp. Apple FO 1/2 tsp. Cinnamon FO Instructions: In glass jar, layer all ingredients, except angel wings and Larkspur, with oakmoss on top. Add FO blend to oakmoss and let sit a minute. Toss all, cap jar, and let rest in dark place for two weeks. Check scent. Add more FO to oakmoss if desired and toss. Let rest another 2 weeks, adding angel wings and larkspur when FO has been absorbed by other ingredients. Package.
Patchouli Potpourri
Submitted by Michele of Jenison, MI 2 C. Woody Blend Ingredients: 3-5 Carob Bean Pods 1/4 C. Ginger Slices 1/2 C. Oakmoss 1/4 C. Kernifern 1/2 C. Lily Petals 1/4 C. Bay Leaves 1/2 C. Sponge Mushroom 2 tsp. Patchouli FO Instructions: In glass jar, layer all ingredients with oakmoss and mushroom on top. Add FO to oakmoss and mushroom and let sit a minute. Toss everything together, cap the jar, and let rest 2 weeks in a dark place. Check scent. If more is desired, add to oakmoss and mushroom. Toss, and store another 2 weeks in the dark. Package.
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Romance
Submitted by Michele of Jenison, MI 2-1/2 C. Red and Romantics Ingredients: 1/4 C. Eucalyptus Leaves 1/4 C. Hibiscus Flowers 1/4 C. Pink Angel Wings 1/2 C. Rose Buttons 1/2 C. Oak Moss 1/4 C. Rose Petals 1/8 C. Purple Larkspur 1/4 C. White or Natural Milo Berries 1/8 C. Purple Angel Wings 2 tsp. Romance FO Instructions: In glass jar, layer Leaves, Hibiscus Flowers, Rose Petals, Buds, Milo Berries, and Oak Moss on top. Add FO to oakmoss and allow to sit a minute. Toss together, cap jar, and let rest in the dark for two weeks. Check scent and add FO if stronger scent is desired. Let sit another week. When scent is satisfactory, add Pink and Purple Angel Wings, and Purple Larkspur. Toss and let sit another week. Package.
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Sunflower
Submitted by Michele of Jenison, MI 2-1/2 C. of Sunshine Ingredients: 1/4 C. Oakmoss 1/2 C. Bleached Polbosa 1/2 C. Yellow Sunflower Petals 1/8 C. Bay Leaves 1/4 C. Orange Peel Ribbons 1/4 C. Black Eyed Susans 1/2 C. Gold Curly Pods 1/8 C. Rose Leaves Instructions: In glass jar, layer all ingredients, oakmoss on top. Add FO to oakmoss and let sit a minute. Toss all together, cap jar, and let rest in dark place for 2 weeks. Check scent. Add more FO to oakmoss if desired, and let sit another 2 weeks. Package.
Vanilla Bay
Submitted by Michele of Jenison, MI 2 C. Woody Blend Ingredients: 1/8 C. Mini Pine Cones 1/2 C. Oakmoss 1/4 C. Curly Pods 1/4 C. Sponge Mushroom 1/2 C. Polbosa Bleached 1/8 c. Bay Leaves 3-5 Carob Bean Pods 1/4 C. Orange Peel Ribbons 1 tsp. Vanilla FO 1 tsp. Bay Rum FO Instructions: In glass jar,layer all ingredients with oakmoss, pine cones, and mushrooms on top. Add FO to top ingredients and let sit a minute. Toss all, cap jar, and let sit 2 weeks in the dark. Check scent. If stronger scent desired, add more to mushrooms, oakmoss, and pinecones. Let sit another 2 weeks. Package.
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Scrubs
Almond-Oatmeal Body Scrub
Submitted by Elise of Lake Elsinore, CA Ingredients: 2 to 3 aloe vera leaves 2 Tbs. honey 2 drops geranium essential oil 2 drops palmarosa essential oil 1 cup ground almonds 1 cup colloidal oatmeal Instructions: You will need 2 ceramic or glass bowls, a stainless steel spoon, and a sterilized 8-oz. jar. 1) Cut the aloe leaves in half lengthwise and scoop out the clear gel into a bowl. Mix in the honey and essential oils. 2) Place the almonds and oatmeal into the second bowl. Stir in the liquid, adding a little distilled water as needed to make a thick paste. 3) Makes enough for two applications. Store in the refigerator.
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Body Scrub
Submitted by Minh of Albany, CA Use this in the tub or shower to rub off dry skin Ingredients: 1/2 teaspoon beeswax 1 teaspoon castor oil 1/2 teaspoon apricot kernel oil 1 tablespoon sea salt 1 tablespoon almond meal 1 1/2 tablespoon shampoo base Instructions: First melt the beeswax, castor oil, and apricot kernel oil together. Mix well. Remove from heat. Add sea salt and ground almonds. Finally, stir in the baby shampoo and there you have it.
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Body/Facial Scrub
Submitted by Hope of Ventura, CA Made with everyday ingredients...it can be easily modified to suit your skin type Ingredients: 1/4 C rolled oats 1/4 C powdered milk (buttermilk or goats milk works great) 1 Tbsp table or sea salt Extras added to above: 1Tbsp cornmeal (for extra exfoliation) 1Tbsp rose petal powder 1tsp neem powder (for problem skin) Instructions: Put all ingredients in food processor and process until fine. Add fragrance/essential oils drop by drop while processing. To Use: place 1 - 2 Tbsp of mixture in palm and wet (water/hydrosol/floral water) until paste-like. Gently, massage into skin and rinse well. Note: I use this on my skin daily and modify as needed. Other additives could be: powdered lemon or orange peel, powdered lavender buds, chamomile, calendula etc.
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Miscellaneous
5-Alive Air Freshner
Submitted by Sofi of Montreal, QC 5-Alive Type EO Blend Air Freshner Ingredients: 1 tsp of vodka (the stronger the better) (almost) 2oz distilled water 12 drops Sweet Orange EO 12 drops Grapefruit EO 11 drops Tangerine EO 7 drops Mandarin EO 4 drops Bergamot EO 2 drops Lemon EO 2 drops Lime EO 2 drops May Chang EO (Litsea Cubeba) Instructions: Pour vodka into sterile glass cobalt/amber bottle (60ml/2oz.). Add essential oils. Shake well, add distilled water, cap with an atomiser. Shake well before each use. * A 2oz bottle is good for about 500 sprays. ** If you double the recipe to make 4oz, add 1 drop each of lemongrass and ginger EO... mmmmmmm *** Do not spray directly over furniture or fabrics. Keep away from flame. Do not spray near drinks, food or eyes. Keep away from children.
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Anointing Oil
Submitted by Ray of El Paso, TX Used for anointing purposes Ingredients: 17 drops Maja fragrance oil 3-4 drops sandalwood fragrance oil 2 -3 drops woodspice fragrance oil 1 oz fractionated coconut oil to dilute. Instructions: Combine and use to anoint.
Body Powder
Ingredients: 1/3 cup cornstarch 1/3 cup arrowroot powder 1/3 cup oatmeal fine Mica Essential Oil Instructions: Mix the dry ingredients and add the essential oil drop by drop mixing very well. Add 1/4 tsp of mica to color.
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Flea Powder
Submitted by Maryam of Lexington, VA For use on pets, beds, or carpets Ingredients: 2 cups baking soda 1 cup pennyroyal (dried) 1 cup lavender (dried) 1 cup rosemary (dried) 5 drops citronella EO 5 drops pennyroyal EO 10 drops lemon EO 5 drops rosemary EO 10 drops lavender EO Instructions: Blend herbs until they form a fine powder and then blend with baking soda. Add eos and mix well. Store in a powder sifter. Sprinkle a small amount onto your carpets or put a small amount on your animal bed. Let sit and then vacuum.
Fragrance Spray
Instructions: Add a few drops of your favourite essential oil blend or fragrance oil to 1 oz of Everclear or high proof vodka. Stir and add 2-3 oz of distilled water. Transfer to a glass sprayer bottle.
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Making a Tea
Instructions: Pouring 2 cups of boiling water over 1 oz of dried herb (double the amount if using fresh) and allow it to sit for 2-4 minutes or 5-10 minutes for barks, roots, and other hard plant material. Teas can be used in the bath, as foot soaks, hair rinses, wetting agents for facials, skin wash for wounds or irritated skin, or of course for taking internally. Teas can also replace water in skin care formulations however care must be taken to preserve your finished product properly.
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Making a Tincture
Instructions: Place 6 - 8 oz of dried herbs in a large glass jar. Pour about 10 oz of vodka over the herbs and then add about 20 oz of water. Mix and then let it sit in a dark cool place. Shake the bottle every so often for 2 weeks. After 2 weeks, strain the liquid through a fine cheesecloth into a dark amber glass bottle. Tinctures can be used to make balms, creams, lotions, salves, toners, etc. To make a calendula, lavender, chamomile or other herbal cream, replace the water with 1 part water and 1 part tincture. To make a vinegar tincture, follow the above directions but replace the vodka with vinegar.
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Nail Oil
Submitted by Yuliya of New York, NY Moisturising anti-fungal oil Ingredients: 10 ml sweet almond oil 5 ml hempseed oil 10 drops vitamin E oil 10 drops tea tree EO 3 drops myrrh EO 5 drops lavender EO Instructions: Mix all the ingredients and store in a cool, dark place. Massage into nails and area around nails as desired.
Shoe Powder
Submitted by Andrea of Worcester, MA Shoe Powder Ingredients: 1/4 cup Baking Soda 1/8 cup Arrowroot Powder 1 tbsp Dendritic salt 3 tsp fragrance (Baby Powder works great) Instructions: Mix fragrance with dendritic salt. Mix into baking soda and arrowroot powder. Sprinkle in shoes/ sneakers. My husband no longer has stinky feet!
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Useful Conversions
Approximate Equivalents
1 oz = 2 tablespoons or 6 teaspoons or 30 ml/cc or 28.35 grams or approx. 700 drops 1/2 oz = 1 tablespoon or 3 teaspoons or 15ml/cc 14.18 grams or approx. 350 drops 1 teaspoon is about 5 ml/cc 1 gallon of most oils is approximately 7.775 lbs
U.S. to Metric
1/5 teaspoon = 1 milliliter 1 teaspoon = 5 ml 1 tablespoon = 15 ml 1/5 cup = 50 ml 1 cup = 240 ml 2 cups (1 pint) = 470 ml 4 cups (1 quart) = .95 liter 4 quarts (1 gal.) = 3.8 liters
Metric to U.S.
1 militers = 1/5 teaspoon 5 ml = 1 teaspoon 15 ml = 1 tablespoon 34 ml = 1 fluid oz. 100 ml = 3.4 fluid oz. 240 ml = 1 cup 1 liter = 34 fluid oz. 1 liter = 4.2 cups 1 liter = 2.1 pints 1 liter = 1.06 quarts 1 liter = .26 gallon
Weight
1 gram = .035 ounce 100 grams = 3.5 ounces 500 grams = 1.10 pounds 1 kilogram = 2.205 pounds 1 kilogram = 35 oz.
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Aromatherapy Information
Guidelines for the use of Essential Oils
There are many ways in which you can use essential oils, however, to use them effectively, you need to understand the properties of the oils, recommended dilutions and the various methods of application. You should also be familiar with the different carrier oils, their shelf lives and their effects on different skin types. Always keep good notes on blends that you make so that you can replicate something if needed. Your notes should include ingredients and proportions, the date you prepared the blend, comments, and improvements to be made next time. Label finished products with the date the product was made, ingredients and instructions for use. Because essential oils are concentrated, highly potent substances, you must know how to work with them safely. The potential hazards of an essential oil depend on the compounds in the oil, the dosage and frequency used, and the method of application. Some can cause skin irritations, some can raise or lower blood pressue and some can even cause abortions so become familiar with the oils you intend to use. Here are a few guidelines to ensure safe and effective use of essential oils: Use only pure essential oils from plants. Buy your oils from a trustworthy source and beware of cheap essential oils. Prices of essential oils vary greatly and are subject to fluctuation and few are inexpensive. Most essential oils should not be used undiluted (neat) on the skin. They can cause burning, skin irritation and photosensitivity. Oils such as lavendar, or tea tree and a few others are exceptions to this rule. These can be used neat on burns, insect bites, pimples and other skin eruptions - unless you have sensitive skin. You can test new oils by diluting them with a carrier oil and massaging it into the soles of your feet. Oils will usually not irritate the thicker skin. If you do have a reaction then it is probably an allergy to the oil and you should not try to use it on your skin. Some of the citrus oils greatly increase photosensitivity. Bergamot contains bergaptene, a powerful photosensitizer that wil cause allergic reactions in some individuals. (Bergaptene-free oil is available.) Of the citrus oils, bergamot is the most photosensitizing. If you are using photosensitizing oils on your skin, use them at night, stay indoors, or wait at least four hours before going out during the day. Keep all essential oils away from the eyes. Some are irritating to mucous membranes and should be used with caution. Keep all essential oils out of the reach of young children. Older children can learn to use essential oils safely, but they should nevertheless be supervised. In general, when treating children with essential oils, use one-third to one-half the adult dosage and select only non-toxic oils. The oils generally used for children are lavender, roman chamomile, mandarin, tangerine, neroli, frankincense, petitgrain, yarrow, eucalyptus and tea tree. Vary the essential oils you use. While it is alright to use a small amount of a blend such as a facial oil blend for a long period of time, it is not recommended that you use an application of the same blend of oils over your entire body for more than two weeks at a time. Alternate with a blend of different oils containing different chemical constituents at least every two weeks. Give your body a chance to rid itself of the constituents of a particular oil or oils.
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Although some very experienced aromatherapists can safely prescribe the oral use of essential oils, I do not advise you to try this on your own. Again, keep essential oils away from the reach of children. Essential oils must be used cautiosly with the elderly and those who have serious health problems such as asthma, epilepsy or heart disease. Be aware of how the oils you use can affect these conditions. Use extra caution when using essential oils during pregnancy, especially during the first trimester. Stick to the very safe oils such as rose, neroli, lavender, Ylang-Ylang, chamomile, jasmine absolute, the citruses, geranium, sandlewood, spearmint and frankincense. Too much of anything is no good. Keep in miind that 1 ounce of essential oil is the equivalent of several pounds of the actual plant material. If youve been overexposed to an essential oil, either through the skin or through inhalation, you may experience nausea, headache, skin irritation and/or other symptoms. If this happens, get some fresh air. If you ever experience skin irritation or accidently get essential oils in the eyes, dilute with straight vegetable oil, not water as water will cause further absorption.
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The size of a drop however varies depending on the viscosity of the oil, the temperature and the opening of the dropper of course. Use an ordinary dropper that you purchase from a pharmacy. When making large portions, use teaspoon measurements. Use the chart above from Keville and Greens Aromatherapy: A Complete Guide to the Healing Art as a guideline.
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Candlemaking
Introduction
Candles were once used merely as a source of light and were simple and plain, without color or fragrance. They came in standard sizes and shapes. Now candlemaking is an art form and candles have become decorative works of art that come in an infinite variety of shapes, sizes, colors & fragrances. They are generally used to create a peaceful, romantic ambiance and are treasured for their relaxing effect. Candles have recently become a big part of home decor and this has encouraged the development of new techniques and materials. The techniques used in candlemaking are relatively simple however the art of candlemaking cannot be mastered simply by reading about the techniques. Only a process of trial and error and good note taking can make you an expert on the subject of candles. The materials you use will determine the quality of your candles but each candle will require a different combination of materials and techniques. Good note taking will allow you to determine what works and what doesnt and when you perfect your candle, you will be able to reproduce it. What ever doesnt work, can be melted down again and re used. Candle scraps and pieces of shaved wax can all be kept and recycled so nothing goes to waste. Candles were meant to be burned so no matter how beautiful your candle comes out, remember it isnt done until it burns well so keep working at it until you get a good smokeless, even burning candle. A candle is basically a block of wax or fat (fuel) wrapped around a wick. The wick burns and melts the solid fuel around it. As it melts, it wicks the fuel up through the fibers and then vaporizes the fuel. The earliest forms of fuel were animals fats, plant waxes, tallow and beeswax. Eventually the development of paraffin revolutionized the candle industry and we were able to achieve long burning, smoke free, inexpensive candles. Nowadays, candles can be made with pure beeswax or pure paraffin or a blend of the two. There are also a number of different specialty waxes that are used to give candles longer burning times and special effects.
Types of Candles
Container candles - candles that are poured into a vessel of some sort that contains the melted wax as it burns. These candles are usually made of soft wax. Pillar candles - thick columns of wax that can be made in a variety of geometric shapes. Novelty candles - irregularly shaped candles that are made by molding or sculpting wax in the shape of various objects/figurines. Tapers - tall thin candles that are about 1/2 - 1 inch in diameter and are made to fit in a candle holder. These are the typical dinner table candles and are made by repeatedly dipping the wick into a container of wax until the taper is the right diameter. Tapers can also be made with a mold or by rolling sheets of wax around a wick. Votives - thick little candles about 2 inches in diameter and about 2-3 inches tall. These are typically used in small spaces like bath rooms for fragrance. Tea lights - little containers candles used for warming potpourri pots and food trays.
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Methods of Candlemaking
Molding - Molded candles are made by pouring wax into molds. You can find candle molds in craft stores/candle supplies or you can make your own molds from milk cartons, boxes, plastic shapes etc. You can also use a rubber mold kit to make your own reusable molds. Dipping - Tapers are easily made by repeatedly dipping a length of wick into a container of melted wax. Each layer hardens and makes the taper thicker and thicker. The natural force of gravity creates a tapered effect. Usually a pair of tapers is made to insure matching thickness. This is done by holding a double length of wick in the center and dipping both ends so 2 tapers are created simultaneously. Poured - Poured candles refers to any candle that was made by pouring wax into a molded form this includes container candles, molded candles and cast candles. Rolled - Rolled candles are probably the easiest to make. They are made by rolling sheets of wax around the wick. Tapers, pillars and novelty candles can be made using this method.
Wax Additives
When combined with waxes, additives can harden, mottle, opacify and create other special effects. They should generally be melted with a small amount of your wax blend and then added to the rest of the batch of wax. This will ensure proper melting and thorough blending. Stearic acid - when combined with paraffin waxes at the right temperature and in the right ratio, stearic acid can combine with wax to form very strong crystalline structure. This makes a hard candle that resists bending or caving in. It aids in mold release. Stearic acid is usually used at a rate of about 2-5 tablespoons per pound of wax. Stearic acid also helps opacify a translucent wax. In cases where you are overdipping a candle to protect embedded objects, (shells, leaves, flowers etc) you will want to avoid using stearic acid as you will be unable to see through the outer coating. Microcrystallines - a group of highly refined waxes that are generally used to increase wax to wax adhesion or make waxes more pliable and elastic or to make waxes more durable and hard. Choose your microcrystalline waxes carefully and know what they are for before you use them. Used properly, they can really increase the quality of your candles. Synthetic polymers - there are a number of polymer additives that can be used to prevent color fading, assist in mold release, increase the luster of a candle, raise the melting point of a candle, create mottling effects etc. You will need to follow the manufacturers directions for use to achieve the proper results.
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Petroleum waxes or paraffins - Paraffin wax is a by product of refining crude oil into motor oil. It can be made to have various melting points and in general are classified as low, medium and high MP waxes. The most commonly used paraffins have melting points between 120 and 150 F. Always make sure you are buying a good quality paraffin so that you get a good, clean and odorless burning candle. Synthetic waxes - these can be highly refined petro waxes or synthetic polymers. Vegetable waxes - Waxes such as carnauba and candelilla are obtained from waxy plants that grow in Mexico, Texas and Brazil. These waxes are much more brittle than beeswax and have very high melting points and are therefor used mainly to raise the melting point of softer waxes and to make them harder. Use these waxes when you need to add strength to a wax blend. Soy wax is a softer wax and is good for container candles and small 3 inch pillars. Soy wax is an earth friendly wax, it burns longer, cooler and cleaner than paraffin wax, it comes from a renewable, sustainable source, it is not carcinogenic & it supports American farmers.
Wax Blends
Wax sheet blends: 100% beeswax. Melt, color, scent and pour into flat sheets. Half and half beeswax and paraffin (medium melting point). Melt, color, scent and pour into sheets. 100% paraffin (or 90% Paraffin and 10% stearic acid). Melt color, scent and pour into sheets.
Wax blends for pouring or dipping: 85% paraffin and 15% stearic acid 65% paraffin, 10% beeswax and 25% stearic 85% paraffin, 10% stearic and 5% candelilla wax
Wax blends for sculpting/modeling wax: Equal parts paraffin and beeswax 70% beeswax and 30% paraffin
Wax blend for pliable modeling wax: 2 pounds of beeswax and 3 oz of petroleum jelly
Wax blend for wax paint: 1 cup beeswax and 1/4 cup turpentine
Figuring out how much wax you need to fill a container/mold: Fill your container or mold with water. Then measure the water in a measuring cup. For each cup of water, you will need approximately 8 ounces or 1/2 lb of wax.
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Candle Wicks
When making a candle, always prime your wicks if they are not pre primed. Priming the wick means saturating the wick in wax to eliminate air bubbles in the wick. This allows for good burning. When burning a candle, always trim the wick to about 1/4 inch so that when it burns, it will keep the flame from getting too big and will help the wick burn properly. The wick should have a 1 - 2 inch flame that burns steady and the tip of the wick should be in the outer oxidation zone of the flame so that it burns off completely. If the tip of the wick is within the combustion zone (inner part of the flame), it will smoke. Whether or not your candle burns properly will depend largely on your choice of wick. The thickness of the wick must be chosen according to the thickness of your candle but also, it needs to be able to melt just the right amount of the wax so that it will have a good burn rate. The burn rate is the amount of wax the wick will burn in a given amount of time. The wick should be burning enough wax so that a pool surrounds the wick without spilling over the side of the candle. Spilling wax means that the wick is melting too much wax and not wicking or using it up fast enough; therefore the wick is too small for the diameter of the candle or for the type of wax used. Too little wax surrounding the wick means that the wick is drawing up the wax too quickly and is not getting the fuel it needs; therefore the wick is too large for the diameter of the candle or for the type of wax used. Keeping this in mind will help you determine if your wick is too thick or too thin for your candle diameter and wax type.
Types of Wicks
Deciding on which wick to use requires a bit of trial and error at first. You can start by following the general guidelines for choosing a wick according to the diameter of the candle but the type of wax and additives you choose will also determine if your wick will work efficiently. Certain wick types work best with certain candle types: Flat braid wicks are made by braiding 3 multi-ply strands of cotton. The more plies per strand, the larger the wick Flat braids generally run extra small (15 ply), small (18 ply), medium ( 24-30 ply), large (42 ply) and extra large (60 ply). Use flat braids in tapers. Small diameter pillars and beeswax sheet rolled candles. Square braided wicks are specially braided to form a square shaped wick. These wicks are numbered starting at 6/0 (the smallest) to 1/0 (about medium) and then #1 through #10 (the largest). The numbers without the /0 are braided less tightly and allow the wick to be thicker without being denser or heavier. Use a square braid wick in rolled beeswax candles, pillars, large cast candles & novelty candles. Cored wicks can have a paper, cotton, zinc or lead core (although lead core wicks are less common today) that holds the wick up. The metal cores burn hotter than cotton or paper and should be used when you need a higher burn rate or are using a high melt wax blend. Cored wicks are used for container candles so that they stand erect while pouring the wax and so they dont bend over into the wax pool as the candle burns. These generally come in small, medium and large sizes although specialty sizes are available.
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To Prime a Wick
Priming a wick allows it to light easily and burn steadily. If you are making ice candles, you need to prime the wick to keep the wick from absorbing the water from the ice. Primed wicks will stand erect in a container so if you cannot find a cored wick large enough for a very large candle, you can use a primed large square or flat braid or even a shoe lace. Prime wicks are also stiff enough to push through a cast candle after it has been poured. To prime a wick, melt your wax and dip the wick in the wax until all the air bubbles escape. Pull the wick taut and allow it to dry.
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Dipping Candles
Dipping a candle is one of the easiest ways to make a candle. It naturally creates a tapered effect as a length of wick is repeated immersed in wax until it reaches the desired diameter. They are generally made in pairs by dipping both ends of a double length wick into the wax simultaneously. You will need a dipping can a few inches taller than the desired candle height and you will need enough wax to form the candles as well as to maintain the level of wax in the dipping can. Select a 1/0 square braid or a 30 -42 ply flat braid. You can use 100% beeswax, a blend of paraffin and beeswax, or a blend of paraffin, beeswax and stearic (see suggested blends). Also have ready a bucket of water to submerge the tapers in. Cut a length of wick 2 x the desired height of the tapers + 4 inches. Tie a metal washer or bolt to each end of the wick as weights. Cut a 2 inch piece of cardboard and make a 1/2 in cut on 2 opposite sides. Centering your wick, insert the wick into the niches so that the hanging lengths are equal. Heat the wax in a double boiler to 155F if you are using paraffin and stearic or 165F if you are using beeswax. Color and scent the wax. Pour the wax into the dipping can to about 1 inch from the top and maintain this level by refilling it with wax as necessary. Keep the dipping can in a hot water bath to keep it at the right temperature. Dip the wick ends into the wax to about 1 inch of the top and hold it there until you dont see any more bubbles escaping. Hang the cardboard on something so that the wicks can harden. You can also dip them in the bucket of cool water to speed up the hardening. When all the water has run off and the wax is cool, re-submerge quickly to the same level pulling it out slowly but steadily. Allow it to cool again. Re submerge as before and you should begin to see the wax building up. If its not, then the dipping wax is too hot and is melting the wax each time you redip so let it cool down a few degrees before redipping. Keep dipping and cooling until the candles reach 1/4 inch in diameter at the thickest end. Then cut off the bottom of the candles evenly, taking off the weights. Keep dipping the candles until they reach about 7/8 inches (the standard) in diameter. Use a knife to shave off excess wax at the base of the candle before the last few dips. If you want, you can dip the last few dips in a high melting point wax to give the candle a hard outer shell. Immediately after the last dip, immerse your tapers in cool water to give them a shiny surface. Hang them up to harden completely. A couple of notes about dipping - The candle will not grow if your wax is too hot and it will become lumpy if the wax is too cold so for each new wax blend that you use, you will need to find the perfect temperature for dipping. Dont let your candle get too cool between dips or the layers will
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not adhere to one another. Try to dip with a steady rhythm keeping the wax temperature nice and steady. It will be difficult to dip candles in a cold environment so try to work in a warm room. Overdipping the tapers - overdipping simply means that your last dip is in a high melting point wax and therefore it creates a nice hard outer shell that eliminates dripping. The inner wax is contained by the hard outer shell until it is completely consumed. To overdip a candle, melt your high MP wax and add 10-30% stearic acid (unless you need the candle surface to be see through). Make sure the candle to be overdipped is not cold or the wax will not adhere well. Take your warm candle and dip it into the overdip wax and pull it our slowly but steadily. The candle will be soft from the high temperature. To get a nice glossy finish, immediately submerge the candle in cool water and then hang it carefully until it rehardens. An overdip can be used to color a white candle too. Instead of using colored wax for the whole candle, you can use a regular white taper and just dip it into colored overdip wax. Because tapers remain pretty pliable between dips, you can take advantage of this and create braided candles by braiding 3 skinny tapers together or twisting a pair of skinny tapers around each other. You can flatten your taper a little with a warm rolling pin (leave the base round so it will fit into a candle holder) and then twist the whole candle to create a twisted taper. To seal in botanicals on the surface of a candle, glue the botanicals onto the surface of the candle with some melted wax and then overdip in a high melt paraffin without stearic acid. You can add 510% microcrystalline (the type that hardens) to the paraffin for extra hardness.
Overpouring
You can create some really pretty candles by overpouring around a premade base. Place your premade base inside of a mold that is slightly larger in diameter than the base. Surround the base with dried flowers, shells, coffee beans, beads etc to fill the space between the base and the mold. Slowly pour in a clear wax (no stearic acid) that has a higher melting point than the base wax.
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Check to see if you need to repour if the wax shrinks down. Remove from the mold once the candle is cooled sufficiently. If the objects need to be exposed a bit more, you can use swift even swipes of a propane torch to melt off some of the surface wax until the objects are visible. Use a piece of panty hose to buff up the surface once it hardens.
Poured Candles
A poured candle simply means a candle that was made by pouring melted wax into a form so that the candle takes on the form when hardened. Therefore, poured candles can be container candles, candles that were formed in a mold or cast candles. Container candles are the easiest to make as the wax is simply poured into the container in which it will be burned. Pouring a Container Candle Find a container that has a wide opening, is not deeper than about 5 inches, and is made of metal, ceramic or glass. Choose a paraffin wax or wax blend with a low melting point and a medium cored wick. Determine how much wax you will need to fill your container/s. Start melting your wax in a double boiler or crock pot. Cut your cored wick to a length 1 inch longer than the height of your jar and tab one end. Warm your candle containers to reduce wax shrinkage. You can warm them in some hot water. When your wax is at a temperature of about 150F, you can color it and add your fragrance. Pour a 1/2 inch layer of wax into your container and quickly center the wick tab in the wax and hold it until it wont move. Let the wax cool a bit and then fill up the rest of the container to about 1/2 inch of the top. The wax will shrink a bit as it cools so when you have a thin layer of hardened wax on the surface, poke some holes around the wick all the way to the bottom of the container and then pour in some more hot wax to fill up the holes. You will probably need to repeat this repour a few times until all the wax is hardened. Trim the wick to 1/2 inch from the surface of the candle. You will know you have the right combination of wax and wick if your candle burns with an evenly liquefied surface without creating a puddle of wax that drowns out the wick. Your wick is too small for the diameter of the candle or for the melting point of the wax you chose if it leaves walls of wax on the side of the container. Making Candles Using Molds Candle molds can be simple one piece molds, or 2 piece molds that allow for complex shapes or even disposable molds that can be torn away once the candle has hardened. Even an empty milk carton can be used to mold a candle. Generally, a one piece candle mold comes with a hole in the base that allows you to thread the wick through it. You then use a wick sealer and screw to hold it in place. The other end of the wick is usually wrapped around a rod or pencil that rests along the upper rim of the mold, holding the wick taut and centered. A store bought mold will come with more specific instructions for use. If you are using a homemade mold such as a milk carton, you can make a small hole in the bottom of the carton, thread the wick through and then seal the hole with some modeling clay or putty or tape. This will become the top of your candle so make sure to leave excess wick outside of the
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hole. If you cant (or dont want to) make a hole in the mold, you can pour your candle and then using a hot knitting needle, make a hole straight through the center of the candle. Push a primed wick up through the hole and then fill the hole with wax. You can also hang a weighted wick (use a metal washer as a weight) from a rod or pencil and then pour your candle. To pour your candle - melt your wax blend to about 165F in a double boiler or crock pot and add your wax additives, color and scent. Have your mold wicked and ready to go. If you are using a rigid mold, lightly coat the inside with mold release (not necessary if you are using a rubber mold or disposable tear away mold). Pour a 1/2 inch layer of wax into the mold to help seal the wick hole. When your wax reaches the right temperature for pouring (your mold instructions should have a suggested wax temperature), pour the wax slowly down the side of the mold to prevent air bubbles. If you are using a water bath to cool/shrink the candle quickly, transfer the mold to the water making sure no water runs into the candle. Make sure the whole depth of the candle is submerged and weigh it down with something heavy so it wont bob around. Once a thin layer on the surface has hardened, poke holes around the wick down the length of the candle to release the air bubbles and fill the holes with more wax. Make sure that the wax doesnt run over the sides of the candle between the wall of the mold and the side of the candle that has shrunk and pulled away from the mold. Repeat the repouring until the surface no longer caves. Wait until the candle is completely cool and hard before attempting to remove it doesnt become distorted from the handling. If you find it difficult to remove the candle from the mold even after it has hardened, try popping it in the refrigerator for 20 minutes. Color Variation You can pour a candle with different colored layers by pouring a color and then waiting until it hardens and then pouring another color. The harder you let each layer get between pours, the more sharp the color change. If you want the colors to blend a little between layers, pour your layers when only about 1/8 inch of the previous layer has hardened. The second color will melt the first and the colors will blend a bit. Chunk Candles A chunk candle is made by filling the mold with chunked up pieces of colored wax and the pouring a clear or contrasting colored wax over the chunks. You will need to tap the mold around to ensure that air doesnt become trapped inside the candle around the chunks. Embedding Objects To make candles with objects (sea shells, botanicals, decorative objects) on the outer surface of the candle, place the objects along the mold wall and hold them in place with chunks of wax the same color as the rest of your candle. Then pour your melted wax to fill up the mold. Tap the mold around lightly to release trapped air bubbles. The closer you can get the objects to the wall of the mold, the more they will show through the surface of the candle. Dont use stearic acid in these candles because it will opacify the wax and the objects will not show through. These candles are best poured in a larger diameter mold otherwise, the objects will become loose as the candle burns. If the objects do not show well through the surface, use quick even swipes of a propane torch to melt the outer surface of the candle to expose more of the objects. A Layered Color Effect You can make a candle that has a light colored exterior with a darker colored or contrasting colored center. To do this, pour a candle as you would normally and wait until a thin layer of wax hardens on the surface. Using a knife, carefully carve off the hardened top surface leaving a 1/8 inch wall and pour the liquid wax from the center back into your melting pot. You can either
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deepen this wax further by adding more dye or use another color to fill in the candle. The deeper color on the inside of the candle will create an interesting look. You can even carve designs onto the surface of the candle to expose the inner color using a hot carving tool.
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Library Information
About Dead Sea Ingredients
Dead Sea Salts are very mineral rich, containing high proportions of Potassium, Magnesium and Bromide. Potassium helps regulate the moisture level of the skin, Magnesium helps promote healing, and Bromide has a smoothing and relaxing effect. The natural mineral salts exfoliate and revitalize the skin and help draw out toxins. Sea Salt is well known for it's ability to relieve aches & pains, reduce stiffness after exertion, relax the muscles and relieve skin problems such as acne, eczema & psoriasis. The high mineral content of Dead Sea Salt stimulates blood and lymphatic circulation. Increased circulation moves trapped fluid from joints, improving joint movement and reducing stiffness and pain. Regular use of salts promotes healthy skin by exfoliating and encouraging regeneration of new skin cells. The Mud and/or Clay from the Dead Sea is equally rich in minerals and helps revitalize, exfoliate and purify the skin. It draws toxins, oils & debris from the skin leaving a clean fresh feeling. It helps to tighten pores and stimulate circulation so your skin is left with a smooth healthy glow. The mud can also be used as a pack for sore joints. Use the mud as a hair pack to alleviate dandruff and oily hair conditions. It will not over dry the scalp. The Dead Sea Brine is the mineral rich water from the Dead Sea. It can be used in creams, lotions, facials, masks, body wraps, etc. To use the mud or clay: A Dead Sea Mud Mask can be made very simply with some dead sea clay and enough water to make a thick paste. The best water would of course be, the dead sea brine. You can also use the mud which is already wet. You can add 3 drops of essential oil to the mud to help cleanse the pores and kill bacteria that cause blemishes. Other wetting agents for the clay are fruit puree, yogurt, cucumber juice, milk, etc. Honey can be added to make the mask anti bacterial. If your skin tends to be dry in some spots, you may want to add some jojoba to the mud mask to help balance the skin. Other good additives are: Powdered Sea Vegetables, Powdered Rice Bran, Colloidal Oatmeal, Nut Meals, Powdered Herbs etc. Dead Sea Masks cannot be premixed and stored so only mix what you will use immediately or provide customers with a specially blended wetting agent in a separate container so they can mix as they need. A great Dead Sea hair wrap can be made with 1/2 cup mud or clay (wet with Dead Sea Brine), 1 Tablespoon shikakai powder, 1 tsp aritha powder, 1 tsp neem powder, 1 Tablespoon jojoba oil and 5 drops of rosemary essential oil. Mix all the ingredients and massage through wet hair. Wrap with plastic and then a hot towel. Leave it for at least 15 minutes and then wash out. Dead Sea Mud and Clay can be added to soap at a rate of 1T - 2T per pound. To use Dead Sea Salt: Dead Sea Salt can be used by itself to make a bath salt or you can blend it with other salts to keep your costs down. It can be used as is or you can color and scent.
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About Hemp
Hemp (Cannabis sativa) The hemp plant is one of the most economically useful plants because every part of the plant can be used and multiple crops can be harvested annually from a single field. The seeds of the hemp plant yield a non narcotic oil that is made up of 81% poly-unsaturated essential fatty acids of EFAs necessary for the metabolism of healthy skin. Due to this unusually high content of EFAs, hemp seeds are used in a variety of health food preparations and the oil is being used more and more in the nutraceutical and cosmeceutical industries. Hemp seed oil can be used at a rate of 5-20% in soaps, lotions, creams, balms, lotion bars etc. Hemp fiber is becoming popular in the textile industry due to economic and environmental concerns. Compared to cotton, hemp produces twice as much fiber per acre and while cotton typically requires significant amounts of pesticide spraying, hemp requires none. Hemp does not need as much water as cotton and can grow in almost any temperate or tropical climate. The fiber from hemp is 10 times stronger than cotton and can be used to make all types of clothing.
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For dandruff and head lice: Massage the oil into hair and leave for 1 hour. Shampoo. Repeat once weekly for 3 weeks or as long as problem persists. As a garden pesticide: Spray infested plant material with a solution of neem oil, aritha powder (as a surfactant) and water. The insects will avoid sprayed leaves and will die of starvation.
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of possible fragrances and are usually much less expensive than pure essential oils. They do not need to be regulated like essential oils do and are very easy to work with. They are generally used at 2-5% in formulations and can be used as perfume oils when diluted in a vegetable oil or jojoba. Do not use fragrance oils in lip care products! Do not use our toiletry fragrance oils in candles they will not burn! Flavor oils are really just fragrances that are approved for use in lip products. They do not give a taste to lip balms (they are not sweet oils). Use at recommended rate of 2-5%. Can candle fragrance oils be used in toiletries and vise versa? Some fragrance oil manufacturers claim that their oils can be used in both candles and soap however they usually say this because soap is not regulated by the FDA. Our candle oils at FNWL, are made in a non cosmetic grade base so we discourage the use of our candle FOs in skin care products. Our toiletry oils on the other hand are made in a cosmetic grade base that will not burn well in candles. If we have a fragrance in the toiletries section that we do not carry in the candle section, please feel free to request it.
How to
Heat Shea Butter Properly Improper heating of shea butter can cause the butter to crystallize as it cools which can cause lip balms, body butters and other formulations to turn gritty upon sitting. In order to avoid this, shea butter must be melted and heated to about 175 degrees and kept at that temperature for at least 20 minutes. This will allow the butter to melt completely so that crystals will not form once cooled. Melt Solid Oils To melt solid oil for pouring, place the container in a hot water bath for 20 minutes. Reshape Flattened Loofah Our loofahs come flattened to save on shipping costs. To plump them, they can be soaked in water and then air dried or spritzed with alcohol and shaped by hand. Figure a Percentage (i.e., how much fragrance oil to add) To work out a percentage, take the size of your batch (usually the weight) and multiply by the percentage required. For example if you are making a 5 lb batch of cream and need to add 2% of an essential oil, you would first convert 5 lbs to 80 oz ( 5lbs x 16oz = 80 oz) and then multiply 80 oz by .02 (2%) which gives you 1.6 oz. If the resulting number is very small or difficult to measure, you can multiply oz x 30 to get ml (or cc). So 1.6 oz x 30 = 48 ml or 48 cc. You can find ml/cc syringes at any pharmacy.
Making
An Infusion Making an infusion simply means making a tea. Bring the water almost to boiling and then pour over the herbs. Generally 1 cup water is used per 1-2 teaspoons of herb. Let it steep for at least 15 minutes. Cool and strain. Store in a glass jar but preserve with alcohol if you intend to keep it for more than 3 days.
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Linen Waters To make a linen spray, start with an essential oil blend or fragrance oil and add a solubilizer. You can use Polysorbate 20 mixed 1:1 or our fragrance base mixed 1:4 (fragrance:solubilizer). Some trial and error will be necessary as some fragrances may cloud when added to P20 or the fragrance base. Shake the blend until you get a homogenous solution. You may need to add a bit more solubilizer if the oil does not become miscible. Once the oil dissolves in the solubilizer, you can now add it to a 50/50 (or desired proportion) water/alcohol blend.
Using
An Anti-Oxidant to Preserve Your Products In the cosmetic industry, an anti oxidant is a preservative that reduces the rate of oxidation of unstable oils. You would want to use an anti oxidant in your skin care products if they contain fragile oils such as sweet almond, hemp, avocado, flax, evening primrose etc or simply if they are going to be kept for long periods of time. You can add anti oxidants directly to your oils to keep them fresh or you can add the anti oxidant to the oil phase of your recipe. Lip balm, lotion bars, creams, lotions, and any other product containing oils can benefit from the addition of an anti oxidant. Examples of anti oxidants are vitamin E (must be a low alpha mixed tocopherol form of vitamin E to work as an anti oxidant) or Rosemary Oil Extract. Both are typically used at a rate of .5 -2%. Mix with your oils before combining oils with water (if applicable). Vitamin E from the health food store is NOT a suitable anti oxidant for skin care products because it contains a high percentage of alpha-tocopherol which is great for your skin but doesnt act as an anti oxidant. The delta and gamma tocopherols are better anti oxidants than the alpha tocopherol and these can be found in a high percentage in our T50 vitamin E oil.
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Clay in Soap The addition of clay gives soap a creamy dense lather that makes it ideal for shaving. Bentonite and French Green clay are often used for this purpose. Clay is also useful for adding natural earthtone colors to soap. Use it at a rate of 1 T per pound of soap.
Clays for Facial Masks Various clays are made up of different mineral contents and each clay has a different effect on the skin. The high mineral content of clays rejuvenates the skin while the clay exfoliates and stimulates blood circulation to the skin. Regular use of clay facials will remove dead skin cells, improve circulation to the skin, remove debris from the pores and bring about a smooth healthy glow. Each clay has the ability to absorb toxins from the skin but they differ in their level of absorption. China clay or white kaolin has a mild astringent effect and is best used on dry to normal skin. Multani mitti or fullers earth absorbs toxins very well and exfoliates well making it a good facial clay for oily, scaly, combination skin. Roseclay is similar to china clay and is good for dry to normal skin. Bentonite and French Green clay are the most drawing of the clays and are best used on oily to normal skin. These can help revitalize tired looking skin and will encourage blood flow to the skin. Moroccan red clay is also good for drawing out toxins and excess oils from the skin and should be used for oily to normal skin types.
Emulsifying Wax Our emulsifying wax is a vegetable based emulsifier (Ingredients: Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, PEG-150 Stearate & Steareth-20). It is used to bind oil and water together in creams, lotions etc. Measure out 5% emulsifying wax and melt with your other solid waxes/oils.
FD & C Dyes To use FD & C dyes: These dyes are water soluble and highly concentrated. Mix a small amount with warm water and stir until dissolved. Since the color of your product will be lighter than the color of the dyed water, you will need to do some trials to determine how much dye is required per batch to get the end results you desire. These dyes produce brilliant colors and can be blended to get other colors. Add this dye to the water phase of your formulation.
Flavor Oils Flavor oils are simply fragrance for lip products. These oils do not have a taste and they are not sweet. The oil can be added to one of the oils or directly to your lip balm batch while it is still warm. Use the flavor oils at 2 - 5% but not more than 5%.
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Grapefruit Seed Extract One of the reasons people are moving away from commercial soaps and skin care products is because of the numerous chemicals and preservatives used that have questionable effects on our health. Grapefruit seed extract is a natural (extracted from the seeds of grapefruits) citricidal preservative. It can be used in many ways for household disinfection and can also be used to preserve soaps, toiletries and cosmetics. In the house, it can be used to wash fruit, vegetables and meat/fish, disinfect countertops, laundry, toothbrushes, utensils, humidifiers, etc. It can also be used diluted as a mouthwash, gargle or disinfectant for hands. Pretty much anywhere you use commercial disinfectants, you can substitute GSE and you can rest assured that it is safe for you and the environment. It can even be used to disinfect drinking water if necessary. Handling GSE Avoid contact with eyes. If contact should occur, immediately flush eyes/eye with water for at least 10 minutes and see a physician. Always dilute before using on skin or for personal use. Theres no need to dilute for use in soaps and toiletries. If it comes in contact with the skin (unless youre using a drop for warts or cysts), you should thoroughly rinse the area with water. As with all other medications, keep out of the reach of children. Uses For a fruit/veggie or meat/fish wash: use 8-15 drops per gallon of water For laundry: add 10 drops to rinse cycle For humidifiers: add 4 drops per gallon to the reservoir For disinfecting toothbrushes: 2 drops in 5 oz. of water. You can store your toothbrush for a week in this solution. As a gargle or mouthwash: 3 drops in 5 oz. of water To disinfect drinking water: If possible, filter water first or let sit. Add 10 drops GSE to gallon of clear water. Shake and let resettle. It will be bitter but clean. For general disinfection of counter tops and other surfaces: Use 8-15 drops per gallon of water. Make your own baby wipes: Use 20 drops in 16 oz. of water For soap or lotions: Use between .05 and 2% of your total ingredients. Add to oils before adding lye when using in soap. How Much to Use Use GSE ar a rate of .05- 2%. To measure out 2%, multiply the total volume (in ounces) of your batch times .02 to get ounces of GSE to use. Usually the amount is too small to measure in ounces so you can multiply that number by 30 to get ml and use an ml syringe to measure your GSE. How GSE is Made GSE is made with extracts of citrus seeds/pulp. It is made through a special process of combining polyphenols with the acidic extracts of citrus seeds/pulp until they convert to a stable quaternary
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ammonium compounds. Some quat. compounds are toxic to animal life but GSE provides very broad anti bacterial activity while demonstrating no toxicity. It is blended with vegetable glycerin to make it non irritating to the skin and mucous membranes. As a blend, GSE is safe enough to use as a disinfectant for drinking water when necessary. Our GSE does not contain any preservatives such as parabens as it shouldnt be necessary if GSE itself is a preservative. While the 33% GSE is suitable for regular household purposes, the 60% Concentrated GSE is recommended for cosmetic purposes. Use at .05 to 1% to preserve most formulations or use at 2% to create antibacterial creams, salves, rinses, soaps etc. Hydrolyzed Silk The addition of hydrolyzed silk amino acids to a cream, lotion or soap, gives the product a silky feel. Add the silk during the water phase at a rate of about 1-6% in creams, or lotions and about 410% in soaps. Milk Powders The nice thing about using milk in the powdered form (other than the fact that you can have it around and not have to worry about it going bad before you use it), is that you can alter the concentration of it and therefore make a fattier milk. The normal reconstitution rate for milk powder is 4 T per cup of water. In soap, you may prefer to use 6-8 T of powder per cup water to increase the creaminess of your milk. In cold process soap, you will find it easier to reserve a small amount of your water from your recipe and use that water to make a paste with the milk powder. Add the milk paste to your batch at light trace. You can also make up the milk and use it in place of your water, however, it will need to be chilled before combining with the lye. In MP soap, you can make a paste with 1T of milk powder per pound of soap (mix with just enough water to make it into a paste) and add it to the melted base. Stir well to incorporate. Oxides and Ultramarines These pigments are oil dispersible and therefore do not dissolve. They need to be mixed well with an oil to prevent clumps of pigment in your finished product. Add evenly colored oil to your batch and mix well. These pigments will settle to the bottom of your product if you use too much or if your product is very thin in consistency so some trial and error may be necessary to use these pigments in certain instances. These pigments tend to be on the earthy side and can be blended to get complex muted colors. Polysorbate 20 Use polysorbate 20 to emulsify oils & water at about 1:1 (may require slightly more to achieve a clear solution). Mix fragrance /essential oils with P20 until you get a clear solution and then add to batch. Since this may not be compatible with all essential oils and fragrance oils do a small test first. Some fragrance oils may cloud. Great for body sprays, room and linen sprays etc.
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Index
We are not completely done indexing at this time. Well continue to work on setting up indexing terms and complete the index in the near future! Thanks for downloading our book!
A
almond oil 12 aloe vera gel 52, 61 aloe vera oil 15, 18, 30, 50 anise essential oil 41 anti bacterial 16 anti fungal 16 apricot kernel oil 17, 18, 47 apricot oil 12 avocado oil 12, 16, 18, 41, 42, 47, 51, 59 azuki bean powder 26
B
basil 39 beeswax 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 22, 33, 42, 46, 50, 52, 53, 56, 58, 59, 60, 61 bentonite clay 39, 43 benzoin gum powder 17 borage oil 47 borax 17, 50, 52, 53 butter 11 cocoa 12, 17, 18, 30, 38, 40, 44, 46, 48 illipe 12, 15, 16, 52 kokum 16, 26 mango 16, 37, 40, 58 nutmeg 40 sal 16, 37, 40 shea 15, 16, 18, 27, 30, 40, 44, 45, 47, 53, 56, 57, 59 buttermilk 40, 43
C
calendula oil 57, 58, 59, 60 calendula petals 14, 15, 16, 30, 56, 60 calendula powder 48, 61 camelina oil 57, 60, 61 canola oil 28, 29, 30, 39, 43, 45 carrot oil 47 carrots 29 carrotseed essential oil 47 castor oil 26, 28, 30, 35, 36, 37, 42, 43, 44, 45, 57 chamomile essential oil 61 chamomile flowers 14, 16, 26, 60 chamomile powder 48, 58, 61 citric acid 15, 54 citronella java essential oil 27 clay bentonite 39, 43 sea 51 white kaolin 60
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clovebud essential oil 30 cocoa butter 11, 12, 17, 18, 30, 38, 40, 44, 46, 48 coconut oil 17, 18, 26, 27, 29, 30, 31, 32, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 50, 53, 57 comfrey root 39 comfrey root powder 16 cornstarch 58, 60, 61 cucumber floral water 26 cucumbers 45
D
dill weed 41
E
emu oil 12, 14, 18, 37, 52, 57 emulsifying wax 15, 54 essential oil anise 41 carrotseed 47 chamomile 61 citronella java 27 clovebud 30 eucalyptus 18 eucalyptus citriodora 27 fennel 41 geranium 27 grapefruit 13 lavender 14, 15, 18, 48, 52, 57, 58, 60, 61 lemon 13 lemongrass 36 mandarin 13, 26, 60 myrrh 39 nutmeg 40 orange 13 peppermint 18, 42 roman chamomile 14, 48, 59 rose 14 rose bulgarian 48 rosemary 27, 42 sandalwood 39 spearmint 30 tea tree 15, 36, 42 vanilla 40 eucalyptus citriodora essential oil 27 eucalyptus essential oil 18 evening primrose oil 47 exfoliant 26
F
fennel essential oil 41 flax seed oil 31 floral water 52 cucumber 26 jasmine 52
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orange 52 fractionated coconut oil 50 fragrance oil almond 38 basil 26 bubble gum 27 cucumber 50 honey 38 neroli 30 peach 17 raspberry 17 vanilla 12 fullers earth 39
G
gel wax 20 geranium essential oil 27 glycerin 51, 52, 53, 56 glycerine 15 goats milk powder 15, 33, 40, 41, 61 goldenseal 56 grapefruit seed extract 41, 47, 50, 56 grapefuit essential oil 13 grapeseed oil 14, 34, 36, 53 gum myhrr 56
H
healing soap 39 hempseed oil 14, 16 herb arrowroot 60 azuki bean powder 26 basil 39 benzoin gum powder 17 calendula petals 14, 15, 16, 30, 56, 60 calendula powder 48, 61 chamomile flowers 14, 16, 26, 60 chamomile powder 48, 58, 61 comfrey root 16, 39 dill weed 41 goldenseal 56 lavender buds 15, 58, 60 lavender flowers 14, 60 lavender powder 61 lemon peel 13 neem leaves 16 neem powder 39 orange peel 13 peppermint leaves 42 rose petals 14, 60 rose powder 48 stinging nettles 16 tulsi 39 tumeric 39
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honeycomb sheets 20 hydrolized silk amino acids 37 hydrosol 17, 50, 52 neroli 26 rose 52
I
illipe butter 12, 15, 16, 52
J
jojoba, MP 56 12 jojoba, MP56 58 jojoba oil 16, 18, 27, 37, 42, 47, 53, 54, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60
K
kokum butter 16, 26 kukui nut oil 47
L
lanolin 17, 52, 61 lavender buds 15, 58, 60 lavender essential oil 14, 15, 18, 48, 52, 57, 58, 60, 61 lavender flowers 14, 60 lavender powder 61 lecithin 52 lemon essential oil 13 lemon peel 13 lemongrass essential oil 36
M
mandarin essential oil 13, 26, 60 mango butter 11, 16, 37, 40, 58 meadowfoam oil 53 mica 11, 12, 26, 27, 50, 58, 60 milk buttermilk 40, 43 goats 15, 33, 40, 41, 61 whole 38, 40 MP 56 12, 58 muslin bags 58 myhrr gum 56 myrrh essential oil 39
N
neem leaves 16 neem oil 16, 27, 37, 39 neem powder 39 neroli hydrosol 26 nutmeg butter 40
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O
oatmeal colloidal 46 coarse 51 fine 58 oat starch 60 oil aloe vera 15, 18, 30, 50 apricot kernel 12, 17, 18, 47 avocado 16, 18, 41, 42, 47, 51, 59 avovado 12 borage 47 calendula 57, 58, 59, 60 camelina 57, 60, 61 canola 28, 29, 30, 39, 43, 45 carrot 47 castor 26, 28, 30, 35, 36, 37, 42, 43, 44, 45, 57 coconut 17, 18, 26, 27, 29, 30, 31, 32, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 50, 53, 57 emu 12, 14, 18, 37, 52, 57 evening primrose 47 flax seed 31 fractionated coconut 50 grapeseed 14, 34, 36, 53 hempseed 14, 16 jojoba 16, 18, 27, 37, 42, 47, 53, 54, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60 kukui nut 47 meadowfoam 53 neem 16, 27, 37, 39 olive 14, 15, 16, 26, 27, 28, 29, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 50, 53, 56, 59 palm 26, 27, 30, 31, 32, 34, 37, 38, 39, 42, 43, 44, 45, 47, 57 palm kernel 29, 42, 43, 48 peach kernel 12, 57 rice bran 52 rosehip 47 safflower 45 sesame 39 soybean 29, 35, 38 sunflower 26, 33, 34 sweet almond 12, 16, 17, 29, 30, 34, 36, 37, 43, 45, 47, 48, 56, 57, 59 virgin coconut 12, 52, 59, 61 wheatgerm 42, 47, 53, 59 olive oil 14, 15, 16, 26, 27, 28, 29, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 50, 53, 56, 59 orange essential oil 13 orange peel 13
P
palm kernel oil 29, 42, 43, 48 palm oil 26, 27, 30, 31, 32, 34, 37, 38, 39, 42, 43, 44, 45, 47, 57 paraffin wax 20, 21, 22 peach kernel oil 12, 57 peppermint essential oil 18, 42
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peppermint leaves 42
R
rice bran oil 52 roman chamomile essential oil 14, 48, 59 rose bulgarian essential oil 48 rose essential oil 14 rose geranium essential oil 11 rose petals 14, 60 rose powder 48 rosehip oil 47 rosemary essential oil 27, 42 rosemary oil extract 42
S
safflower oil 45 sal butter 16, 37, 40 sandalwood essential oil 39 sesame oil 39 shea buter 30 shea butter 11, 15, 16, 18, 27, 40, 44, 45, 47, 53, 56, 57, 59 silk amino acids 37 skin type acne 36 baby 14 cracked 18 difficult 36 dry 11, 16, 17, 31 healing 39 maturing 48 moisturizing 12, 15, 33, 36, 44 rough 15 soap shaving 43 sodium hydoxide 27, 30, 32, 33, 34, 43 sodium hydroxide 26, 27, 28, 29, 31, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 57 sore muscles 18 soybean oil 29, 35, 38 spearmint essential oil 30 stearic acid 15, 54 stinging nettle 16 sunflower oil 26, 33, 34 sweet almond oil 12, 16, 29, 30, 34, 36, 37, 43, 45, 47, 48, 56, 57, 59
T
tallow 27, 28, 37 tea tree essential oil 15, 36, 42 tulsi 39 tumeric 39
V
vanilla essential oil 40
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vanilla fragrance oil 12 virgin coconut oil 11, 12, 52, 61 virgrin coconut oil 59 vitamin E 250UI 59 vitamin E T-50 14, 26, 42, 47, 57, 60, 61 vitamin E T50 16
W
wax bees 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 22, 33, 42, 46, 50, 52, 53, 56, 58, 59, 60, 61 emulsifying 15, 54 gel 20 honeycomb sheets 20 paraffin 20, 21, 22 wheatgerm oil 42, 47, 53, 59 white kaolin clay 60 wick zinc core 20
Z
zinc core wick 20
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