How to Make a Simple Hardcover Book.

You will need: Sheets of paper to make the pages. A slightly larger sheet of sturdy paper, to make the outer cover. Brown paper is excellent, and can be painted with indian ink or other waterproof pigments. Two boards of hard card, to make the inner cover. Two tapes of flexible card, to hold the pages to the cover. You will also need some fabric to re-enforce the spine. Use a non-flexible weave. Old bed sheets or pillowcases are perfect. A craft knife for cutting the paper and boards, and a steel ruler of sturdy piece of wood to cut along. Glue. (Pva or paste.) A needle, and a heavy thread. (Waxed linen thread is best.) A sharp object such as an awl or a nail, to punch holes. Sheets of plastic, to insulate moisture from the glue, and stop it from spreading through the book as it dries. Overhead projection sheets are good, but any smooth plastic will do (e.g. plastic zip lock bags, old folder covers.)

A Note On Grain. Most paper has a grain, which means that the fibers in the paper tend to line up in one direction. This gives the paper certain properties. Grained papers should always be folded along the grain. In a book, all grained papers and boards should be aligned vertically, with the grain parallel to the spine of the book. This is to avoid wrinkling and warping. To test the grain of a paper, cut a small square, and lick one side like a stamp. It will curl around the grain. If you need to test a paper in a shop, where you cannot cut it, the grain is usually visible to the eye. Grained paper also has a distinct feel; the paper will bend more easily around the grain. Breathing warm breath onto paper will also result in a slight curling, which subsides after a short time.

The Construction

1. Cut segments of eight to twelve sheets, with the grain running parallel to the intended spine.

2. fold the segments over, along the grain. You can use the back of a spoon to flatten the folds.

3. Punch holes for sewing. Make a template using the tapes to measure. Make holes either side of the tapes, and one more at each end of the fold.

4. Thread the needle, and tie a knot at the end of the thread. Sew the segments together, following the diagram below.

a. Sew into the first hole, into the outer edge of the fold. b,c. Insert the tapes. The thread should pass over the tapes, and hold them in place. d. Insert segment two under the tapes, and sew the first hole. e. Tie the thread around the tail at the first hole, before inserting the third segment. f. After sewing along segment three, hook the thread under the join between the first and second segments. Repeat this step at the end of each segment.

g. When all the segments are in place, hook the thread under the previous join, and tie off the thread with a knot.

5. Seal the spine with a thin layer of glue. Work it into the cracks, and coat the thread. This strengthens the sewing, and closes the spaces between the segments. Press the book flat under a pile of heavy books. Make sure the spine is pressed as flat as possible, as it will set into this form permanently. The final product is called a book block

6. Meanwhile, make your cover. Cut two boards, slightly larger than the book block, so that there is a small border on three sides of the book block.

7. Cut a large sheet of heavy paper, so that there is room to place the two boards side by side, with a space between them the width of the spine of the book block plus three times the thickness of the boards. There should be a border around the boards of about one inch. On the INSIDE of the paper, mark the positions of the boards, Cut the corners off, leaving a small space between the corner of the board and the cut.

8. Coat the paper with glue, and place the boards. Glue a strip of fabric between the boards. You may also, optionally, include a strip of card, to create a hard spine. The card should be the same width as the spine of the book block. Make sure all are glued down well. Fold the paper over, (1,2,3,4) You may now press the cover under some books, using sheets of plastic to cover the exposed wet areas, or simply continue on with the next step.

9. Now the book block can be glued into the cover. Under the first page of the book block, place a sheet of newspaper, and beneath that a sheet of plastic. Cover the page with glue. It is ok for the glue to pass over onto the newspaper. Glue down the tapes, and cover their backs with glue. Make sure the page is coated right to the edges, especially near the spine. Carefully lift the page, and remove the newspaper. Make sure the plastic is properly in place and drop the page back onto it. (The plastic stops the moisture from the glue spreading through the pages and causing them to wrinkle.) Drop the book block onto one side of the open cover, so that the spine is flush with the inside edge of the board, and there is an even boarder on the other three sides. If it is uneven, the cover may be carefully opened, and the page can be shifted slightly, or even removed for another attempt. Make sure the positioning is satisfactory before applying any firm pressure. Repeat the process with the other side. The only difference here is that the cover must be lifted up and placed against the top of the book block. Line the board with the spine, and lower it down.

10. Press the book under as much weight as possible. Position it on the edge of a table, so that the spine sticks out a little. (The idea is to line the edge of the table with the boards inside the cover.) If the spine is a soft one, it can be shaped while wet, and will set. Allow the book to cure until it is totally dry. If it is removed too early, the cover will curl. A damp book feels cool to the touch, and will still smell like

glue. Once it is dry, it should have a neutral temperature, and smell only very faintly of glue. When it is dry, remove the plastic sheets, and the book is complete. Page Calculators for Multi-Segmented Books and Single-Segmented Pamphlets For Instructions on how to print multi-segmented books using a home computer, clickhere. This javascript page calculator includes instructions for formatting and printing a multi segmented book in WORD. For a calculator for a simple single-segment pamphlet, click here. For instructions on How to Make a Paperback Book By Hand , click here.

How to Make a Paperback Book By Hand.

Binding a paperback can be achieved very quickly and easily. Although the results are far less robust and satisfying than a sewn hard-cover book, it is far less labour intensive, and is an excellent way to consolidate printed documents, or to publish your own book. You will need: PVA glue, preferably a more flexible, rubbery variety, rather than a harder wood glue. Craft knife / Scissors Hacksaw (optional) Paintbrush (or use your finger) Bulldog Clip or Clamp. FORMATTING This method of binding works for stacks of loose papers, such as you would print out on your home printer. Most word processors, such as (free) OpenOffice, or MS Word, have an option to print only odd or even numbered or even pages at a time. This allows you to print out all the odd pages on one side of the papers, then flip the pages over and print the even pages on the other side. Make sure to format the pages so that the margin on the inner edge (ie the edge closest to where the spine

will be) is wider than the outer margin, so that the text will remain easily readable. BINDING Take the stack of papers you have prepared, and clamp the edge furthest away from the spine side. If you are using an ordinary bulldog clip, wrap a piece of folded paper around the pages to protect them from being marked by the clip. Check that the spine edge of the stack is completely flat and flush. The following step is to cut grooves into the spine edge of the stack. This step is optional but will result in a more rugged binding. Use the hacksaw to cut shallow grooves into the spine edge of the stack, approximately 2-3 mm deep. (Roughly the width of the hacksaw blade itself.) This can is more easily achieved by using a clamp positioned close to the spine, so that the pages are held tightly together. Alternatively, saw over the edge of a bench, pressing down on the pages with a length of wood. These grooves will give the glue more surface area to stick to, and help it to hold the book together. Ideally you should cut the grooves approximately every 5mm along the spine edge. Once the grooves have been cut, check once more that the spine is flush before continuing. It is time to apply the glue. In order that the pages hold together firmly, we want to get a small

amount of glue in between the edges of each sheet. This is achieved by applying the glue while the stack is curled first in one, then the other direction. This causes the pages to spread out, revealing a small strip of their inside surface.

Bend / curl the sheets over, as if you were rolling up a newspaper. Apply glue all across the spine, which should now have spread out to approximately twice its width. Apply the glue all the way to the edges. Take special care not to miss out on the outside pages. It is important to apply enough glue to allow the pages to easily slide back in the other direction. Repeat the process with the pages curled in the opposite direction, and then flatten the pages out again. Run your fingers along either side of the spine. You will feel the spine 'give' a little as the glue squeezes back out from between the pages. Do not over squeeze. Smooth the remaining glue across the spine, and leave it to dry. Once the glue is dry to the touch, apply another layer of glue to the spine to give it extra strength and support. THE COVER Once the book's spine has dried sufficiently (ie, dry to the touch,) you can attach the cover.

Measure a cover from card-stock. It should be the size of two of the book's pages, plus the width of the spine. It is best to make the cover over-sized and trim it down once it is attached, to ensure a perfect fit. Score four folds on the cover. The first two should be exactly where the cover will fold around the edges of the spine. The second two should be approximately 4-5 mm out from the first two folds. These second folds are where the cover will bend away from the book pages. Using a piece of scrap paper as a mask, apply glue from one of the outer scores in to just past the center. Then turn the cover around and repeat, so the area between the two outer scores is covered with glue. Only a thin layer of glue is required between the inner and outer scores. Apply a heavier layer of glue between the inner two scores, where the cover will actually attach to the spine of the book. All that remains now is to carefully fit the pages into the cover. Press the spine very firmly into the heavier strip of glue at the center of the cover. Fold the cover around the pages, and run your fingers down the sides of the spine. The book will be significantly stronger if the cover makes a good seal against the spine, as the card gives support to the spine. Drying time from this point will vary depending on the type of PVA glue you use and the weather, but approximately 12 hours is a standard time to wait.

TIPURI DE sunt cusute la cotor ntreele, prin diferite metode, apoi copertate n carton acoperit cu pnz, piele, vinilin,

Acestea pot cuprinde pn la 250 de pagini (125 file hrtie 8Og/mp)sau 300 de pagini pentru hrtie sub 60-75 g/mp.- Formatul W-245 (24,5cm 17,2cm);- Formatul Y-255 (25,5cm 18,8cm);- Jumtate de A3 (05A3) a - Cartea (Broura) A5 Cartea monofascicol format A5 (Broura) Crticica (broura) are forma unui caiet format mic (cele folosite n clasele primare) ise capseaz dinspre copert spre interior cu 2-3 capse obinuite. Metoda este valabil pentru un document (o brour) cu maximum de circa 70 depagini (pentru hrtia de 8Og/mp), maximum 80-90 de pagini (hrtie de 60-75 g/mp).Este indicat pentru de pe net. Se recomand n special pentru tiprirea cursurilor tippdf montate din ppt.Cartea cuprinde:coperta din carton A4 de 120-160 g/mp;- subcoperta din aceeai hrtie cu cea folosit pentru text; - textul propriu-zis.Iat mai jos dou pachete de brouri: 1. Editarea: Fontul folosit de mine este Bookman Old Style, mrimea 10, Caracter spacing:Scale = 90%, Spacing = normal, Position = normal. Fontul permite o citire uoar, ca mrimei estetica semnelor, fr efort deosebit al ochilor i n acelai timp permite o cantitate maimare de fonturi. Ca i Arial i Times NewRoman permite i scrierea cu diacritice.La editare n Word, se seteaz pagina astfel: hrtie format A4, n fereastra MARGINS:Orientation = Landscape, Multiple pages = Book fold, Sheets per booklet = All, cu urmtoarelemargini n inch: sus = O,5, jos = O,5, stnga = O,7, dreapta = O,6, iar n fereastraLAYOUT: Header = O,2 i Footer = O,3.

Practic pe o coal format A4 orizontal sunt cte dou pagini pe fiecare acest motiv, se va aranja textul astfel nct numrul total de pagini s fie multiplude 4. Indiferent de numrul de pagini editat, imprimanta va stabili un numr de pagini multiplude 4, adugnd la sfritul documentului l-3 pagini albe.Setarea paginii permite editarea de headere pe pagina cu numr impar se trece la header u numr par - numele autorului. De asemenea se obinuiete s existe i o subcopert. ndicat este ca aceasta s fieprima pagin din document, apoi pagina a doua rmne alb, urmnd ca textul s nceapcu pagina a treia. Din motive estetice, este recomandat ca i ultima fil sau mcar ultimapagin a documentului s fie alb, adic nu text lng coperta spate. Este de preferat ca pentru copert s editm un fiier separat la care nu mai nsermnumr de pagin, header i footer. Acelai lucru poate fi valabil i pentru subcopert. NOT

: n

unor documente cu durat scurt de

( cursuri etc .) se poate

la copert i subcopert . 2. Printarea: colii va avea tiprit n partea dreapt pagina nr.1 i n partea stng ultima pagin, urmnd ca pe verso s fie n stnga pagina 2 i ndreapta penultima pagin. Printarea se va termina cu cele imprimantei. Dac verso, introducerea colii se va face manual, cte o coal tiprindreintroducnd coala pentru tiprirea pe verso. Dac tiprirea sentrerupe dintr-un motiv oarecare,

tiprirea nu se mai poate relua de la pagina rmas. Se vada o nou comand care va relua totul de la capt. 3. ndoirea Colile tiprite se ndoaie n dou (de preferat, separat, bucat cu bucat) i apoi seintroduc una n alta, pn se se uita subcoperta i coperta.