Crochet Handbag

By: Kim Rutledge for Naturally Caron This project features a long shoulder strap and a front flap with a magnetic button closure.

Materials: One each size US D-3 (3.25mm), or size to obtain gauge. 1 magnetic purse closure 1 buttonlarge enough to cover purse closure Yarn needle NaturallyCaron.com Spa (75% microdenier acrylic/25% bamboo; 3 oz/85 g, 251 yds/230 m skein): 6 oz, Shown in: #0001 Rose Bisque

Instructions: FINISHED MEASUREMENTS: Purse measures approximately 11"/28 cm wide (at widest) x 7"/18 cm high, excluding strap GAUGE In pattern, using US D-3 (3.25mm) hook, 22 stitches and 20 rows = 4"/10cm.

STITCHES USED Chain (ch), double crochet (dc), half double crochet (hdc), reverse single crochet (rev sc), single crochet (sc), slip stitch (slip st) SPECIAL TERMS dc2tog: Double crochet 2 together [Yarn over, insert hook in next st and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops] twice, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook. FPdc: Front-post double crochet: (RS)Yarn over, insert hook from right-hand side of stitch to WS of piece, return to RS at left-hand side of stitch indicated, yarn over and draw up loop, complete as dc. sc2tog: Single crochet 2 together Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, (two loops on hook), insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook. NOTES FPdc are always worked in stitches 2 rows below the current working row. Skip the corresponding stitch(es), in the row into which you would usually work, unless otherwise instructed. When instructed to work in stitch 2 rows below. Take care to work in stitch directly below the next stitch into which you would usually work. The beginning ch-2 of a row does not count as the first stitch, unless otherwise stated. The back and front flap of purse are worked in one piece. BACK AND FRONT FLAP Back: Chain 50. Row 1 (RS): Dc in third ch from hook (beginning ch does not count as st), dc in each remaining ch across, turn48 dc. Row 2 (increase row): Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn50 sts. Note: Remember to skip the corresponding st in the row into which you would usually work, behind each FPdc, unless otherwise instructed. Row 3: Ch 2, FPdc around turning ch 2 rows below (in Row 1), skip first st, *dc in next st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below; repeat from * to last st, dc in last st, turn. Rows 413: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 five times60 sts. Row 14: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 15: Ch 1, FPdc around first st 2 rows below, *dc in next st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below; repeat from * to last st, dc in last st, turn. Row 16 (decrease row): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn 58 sts. Row 17: Ch 2, dc in first st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st, *FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st; repeat from * across, FPdc around last st 2 rows below, turn. Rows 1833: Repeat Rows 16 and 17 eight times42 sts. Row 34 (decrease row): Ch 1, working in front loops only, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn 40 sts. Do not fasten off. Front Flap: Row 35: Ch 2, dc in each st across, turn. Row 36: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 37: Ch 2, dc in each st across, turn. Rows 38 and 39: Repeat Rows 36 and 37. Row 40: Ch 1, working in front loops only, sc in each st across, turn. Row 41: Ch 2, dc in first 19 sts, dc2tog, dc in each remaining st across, turn 39 sts. Rows 42 and 43: Repeat Rows 36 and 37. Row 44: Repeat Row 36. Row 45: Ch 2, hdc in first 14 sts, FPdc around next 4 sts 2 rows below, hdc in next 3 sts, FPdc around next 4 sts 2 rows below, hdc in each remaining st across, turn. Row 46: Repeat Row 36. Row 47: Ch 2, hdc in first 13 sts, *FPdc around next hdc 2 rows below, FPdc around next 4 FPdc 2 rows

below, FPdc around next hdc 2 rows below, hdc in next st; repeat from * once more, hdc in each remaining st across, turn. Row 48: Repeat Row 36. Row 49: Ch 2, hdc in first 13 sts, *FPdc around next 6 FPdc 2 rows below, FPdc around next hdc 2 rows below, FPdc around next 6 FPdc 2 rows below, hdc in each remaining st across, turn. Row 50: Repeat Row 36. Row 51: Ch 2, hdc in first 14 sts, FPdc around next 11 FPdc 2 rows below, hdc in each remaining st across, turn. Row 52: Repeat Row 36. Row 53: Ch 2, hdc in first 15 sts, FPdc around next 9 FPdc 2 rows below, hdc in each remaining st across, turn. Row 54: Repeat Row 36. Row 55: Ch 2, hdc in first 16 sts, FPdc around next 7 FPdc 2 rows below, hdc in each remaining st across, turn. Row 56: Repeat Row 36. Row 57: Ch 2, hdc in first 17 sts, FPdc around next 5 FPdc 2 rows below, hdc in each remaining st across, turn. Row 58: Repeat Row 36. Row 59: Ch 2, hdc in first 18 sts, FPdc around next 3 FPdc 2 rows below, hdc in each remaining st across, turn. Row 60: Repeat Row 36. Row 61: Ch 2, hdc in first 19 sts, FPdc around next 1 FPdc 2 rows below, hdc in each remaining st across, turn. Row 62: Repeat Row 36. Row 63: Ch 1, hdc in each st across, turn. Row 64: Repeat Row 36. Do not fasten off. Edging: Note: Take care to turn at the end of Row 64, so that the edging is worked on the RS of the piece. Round 1 (RS): Ch 1, work sc evenly spaced around entire piece, working 2 sc in each corner; join with slip st in first sc. Fasten off. FRONT Chain 50. Row 1 (RS): Dc in third ch from hook (beginning ch does not count as st), dc in each remaining ch across, turn48 dc. Row 2 (increase row): Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn50 sts. Row 3: Ch 2, FPdc around turning ch 2 rows below (in Row 1), skip first st, [dc in next st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below] 4 times, dc in next 31 sts, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, [dc in next st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below] 4 times, dc in last st, turn. Row 4: Repeat Row 252 sts. Row 5: Ch 2, FPdc around turning ch 2 rows below, [dc in next st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below] 5 times, dc in next 29 sts, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, [dc in next st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below] 5 times, dc in last st, turn. Row 6: Repeat Row 254 sts. Row 7: Ch 2, FPdc around turning ch 2 rows below, [dc in next st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below] 6 times, dc in next 27 sts, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, [dc in next st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below] 6 times, dc in last st, turn. Row 8: Repeat Row 256 sts. Row 9: Ch 2, FPdc around turning ch 2 rows below, [dc in next st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below] 7 times, dc in next 25 sts, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, [dc in next st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below] 7 times, dc in last st, turn.

Row 10: Repeat Row 258 sts. Row 11: Ch 2, FPdc around turning ch 2 rows below, [dc in next st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below] 8 times, dc in next 23 sts, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, [dc in next st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below] 8 times, dc in last st, turn. Row 12: Repeat Row 260 sts. Row 13: Ch 2, FPdc around turning ch 2 rows below, [dc in next st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below] 9 times, dc in next 21 sts, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, [dc in next st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below] 9 times, dc in last st, turn. Row 14: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 15: Ch 2, dc in first st, [FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st] 10 times, dc in next 18 sts, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, [dc in next st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below] 10 times, turn. Row 16 (decrease row): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn 58 sts. Row 17: Ch 2, dc in first st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st, [FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st] 9 times, dc in next 16 sts, [FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st] 10 times, FPdc around last st 2 rows below, turn. Row 18: Repeat Row 1656 sts. Row 19: Ch 2, dc in first st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st, [FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st] 9 times, dc in next 14 sts, [FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st] 10 times, FPdc around last st 2 rows below, turn. Row 20: Repeat Row 1654 sts. Row 21: Ch 2, dc in first st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st, [FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st] 9 times, dc in next 12 sts, [FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st] 10 times, FPdc around last st 2 rows below, turn. Row 22: Repeat Row 1652 sts. Row 23: Ch 2, dc in first st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st, [FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st] 9 times, dc in next 10 sts, [FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st] 10 times, FPdc around last st 2 rows below, turn. Row 24: Repeat Row 1650 sts. Row 25: Ch 2, dc in first st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st, [FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st] 9 times, dc in next 8 sts, [FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st] 10 times, FPdc around last st 2 rows below, turn. Row 26: Repeat Row 1648 sts. Row 27: Ch 2, dc in first st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st, [FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st] 9 times, dc in next 6 sts, [FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st] 10 times, FPdc around last st 2 rows below, turn. Row 28: Repeat Row 1646 sts. Row 29: Ch 2, dc in first st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st, [FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st] 9 times, dc in next 4 sts, [FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st] 10 times, FPdc around last st 2 rows below, turn. Row 30: Repeat Row 1644 sts. Row 31: Ch 2, dc in first st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st, [FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st] 9 times, dc in next 2 sts, [FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st] 10 times, FPdc around last st 2 rows below, turn. Row 32: Repeat Row 1642 sts. Row 33: Ch 2, dc in first st, FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st, *FPdc around next dc 2 rows below, dc in next st; repeat from * across, FPdc around last st 2 rows below, turn. Row 34: Repeat Row 1640 sts. Edging: Note: Take care to turn at the end of Row 34, so that the edging is worked on the RS of the piece. Round 1 (RS): Ch 1, work sc evenly spaced around entire piece, working 2 sc in each corner; join with slip st in first sc. Fasten off.

GUSSET AND STRAP Chain 10. Row 1 (RS): Ch 2, hdc in third ch from hook and in each ch across, turn8 hdc. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 3: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, turn. Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until piece measures 52"/132 cm. Fasten off leaving a 7"/18cm tail for sewing. Using yarn needle and tail, sew short ends of gusset and strap together. Edging: With RS facing, join yarn with slip st in any st of one edge. Work sc evenly spaced around edge; join with slip st in first sc. Fasten off. Repeat around opposite edge. FINISHING With WS facing, center gusset seam at center lower edge of front, sew edge of gusset and front together sewing through back loops only. Repeat along back. With RS facing, working in unseamed free loops, join yarn with sc in top right corner of front, ch 1, work rev sc evenly spaced around to opposite corner; working in both loops along strap edge, work rev sc evenly spaced to top edge of right corner, sl st in st at corner; working in both loops along front purse edge, work rev sc across to opposite corner; join with sl st in corner. Fasten off. Repeat around back, working in both loops along strap edge and front flap edge. Center one piece of magnetic purse closure near lower edge of underside of purse flap and attach. Position second piece opposite first piece on front of purse and attach. Sew button to front of purse flap to hide closure. Using yarn needle, weave in all ends.

Sweet Pea Tote Bag

Designed by Cathy Phillips 2008

Hooks: G for Bag and E/F for Straps Yarn: 672- 680 yds (15.5 oz.) Sugar n Cream Cotton yarn or any worsted weight Gauge: 20 sc = 4 in and 19 rows sc = 4 in. Size: 15" x 13" x 3" NOTE: The pattern is written so that in Rnd 9 you sl st into a corner, but I altered this when making the pattern myself and I sl st into the center st of the short end of the base so that the seam goes up the side.

Bag CH 42

Rnd 1: 1 sc in second ch from hook; 1 sc in next 39 ch; work 5 sc in last ch; turn corner; working in opposite side of ch, 1 sc in next 39 sts; 4 sc in same ch as first sc of this rnd; slip st into first sc to join 88 sc around. Do NOT turn.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc 1 in the same sc as slip st, work 1 sc in next 40 sc; in last sc of row; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc]; sc in next st; work [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next sc (2nd corner); 1 sc in next 41 sc, [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next sc (last stitch in row); 1 sc in next st; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next sc (last corner), slip st into first sc of rnd to join. 84 sc and 4 [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] groups.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc 1 in the same sc as slip st, 1 sc across to ch-2 sp; work corner [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in ch-2 sp; sc in next 3 sc; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next ch-2 sp (2nd corner); 1 sc across to ch-2 sp, [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in ch-2 sp; 1 sc in next 3 sc; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next ch-2 sp, sc in next sc, slip st into first sc of rnd to join. 92 sc and 4 [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] groups.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc 1 in the same sc as slip st, 1 sc across to ch-2 sp; work corner [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in ch-2 sp; sc in next 5 sc; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next ch-2 sp (2nd corner); 1 sc across to ch 2 sp, [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] in ch-2 sp; 1 sc in next 5 sc; [1 sc 2 ch, 1 sc] in next ch-2 sp, sc in next 2 sc, slip st into first sc of rnd to join. 100 sc and 4 [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] groups.

Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc 1 in the same sc as slip st, 1 sc across to ch-2 sp; work corner [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in ch-2 sp; sc in next 7 sc; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next ch-2 sp (2nd corner); 1 sc across to ch-2 sp, [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] in ch-2 sp; 1 sc in next 7 sc; [1 sc 2 ch, 1 sc] in next ch-2 sp, sc in next 3 sc, slip st into first sc of rnd to join. 108 sc and 4 [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] groups.

Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc 1 in the same sc as slip st, work 1 sc across to ch-2 sp; work corner; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc]; sc in next 9 sc; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next ch-2 sp (2nd corner); work 1 sc across to ch-2 sp, [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] in ch2 space; 1 sc in next 9 sc; [1 sc 2 ch, 1 sc] in next ch-2 sp, sc in next 4 sc, slip st into first sc of rnd to join. 116 sc and 4 [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] groups.

Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc 1 in the same sc as slip st, 1 sc across to ch-2 sp; work corner [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc]; sc in next 11 sc; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next ch-2 sp (2nd corner); 1 sc across to ch-2 sp, [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] in ch-2 sp; 1 sc in next 11 sc; [1 sc 2 ch, 1 sc] in next ch-2 sp, sc in next 5 sc, slip st into first sc of rnd to join. 124 sc and 4 [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] groups

Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc 1 in the same sc as slip st, 1 sc across to ch-2 sp; work corner [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc]; sc in next 13 sc; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next ch-2 sp (2nd corner); 1 sc across to ch-2 sp, [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] in ch-2 sp; 1 sc in next 13 sc; [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] in next ch-2 sp, sc in next 6 sc, slip st into first sc of rnd to join, sl st to fasten off. 132 sc and 4 [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] groups

Rnd 9: Sl st in any ch-2 corner, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-2 corner (this will give you the additional st needed for the pattern round.), dc in each sc around making 3 dc in each ch-2 corner, sl st to join. 148 dc

Rnd 10: Sc in same st as sl st and in each dc around, sl st to join.

Rnd 11: Dc in next sc and in each sc around, sl st to join.

Rnd 12: Sc in same st as sl st and in each dc around, sl st to join.

Rnd 13: Ch 2, dc in next 2 sc, * skip next 2 scs, 5 dc in next sc [5 dc group], skip next 2 scs, dc in next 2 sc [2-dc group], repeat from * across, ending with 5 dc group, skip last 2 sc and sl st into top of beginning ch.

Rnd 14: Ch 3, * 5 dc in sp between first 2 dc, dc in sp between second and third dc of next 5-dc group and in next sp (between third and fourth dc); repeat from * across, sl st to join.

Rnds 15- 37: Repeat Rnds 13 and 14. Note: The top edge will be kind of wavy so round 38 will use sc and hdc to even out the top. [READER COMMENT: I don't understand the direction for rnds 15-37 "Repeat Rnds 13 and 14. After round 14 there are no single crochets.] [READER COMMENT I am confused about rows 15 and up. There are no more single crochet to crochet so is going back to row 13 a mistake.] Rnd 38: Ch 1, * 2 hdc in each dc of 2-dc group, hdc in first stich of 5-dc group, sc in next 3 st of 5-dc group, hdc in last st of 5-dc group.; repeat from * across (adjusting hdc or sc as you see need). Sl st to join.

Rnd 39: Ch 2, dc in each st around, sl st. to join.

Rnd 40: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st. to join.

Rnds 41-42: Repeat Rnds 39 and 40, sl st to fasten off at end of round 42.

Straps (make 2) Hook size E or F.

Ch 8 leaving a long tail to attach to bag

Row 1, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each of remaining 6 sc., turn.

Rows 2 - 126, ch 1 sc in each of 7 st. Do not fasten off, sc in each stitch around outsides of strap, making [sc, 1 ch, sc] in each corner. Fasten off leaving long tail to attach to bag.

Position straps 3-1/2" from outside edge of bag. Attach using tails. (I sewed with regular sewing thread first and then used tails to finish).

October 12, 2008

Lacy V Market Bag

Designed by Cathy Phillips 2008

Hooks: F for Bag and E for Straps Yarn: 12.5 oz. Sugar n Cream Cotton yarn or any worsted weight Gauge: 20 sc = 4 in and 19 rows sc = 4 in. Dimensions: 16" x 14" x 3"

Bag CH 50

Rnd 1: 1 sc in second ch from hook; work 1 sc in next 47 ch; work 5 sc in last ch; turn corner; working in opposite side of ch, work 1 sc in next 47 sts; work 4 sc in same ch as first sc of this rnd; slip st into first sc to join. 104 sc around. Do NOT turn.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc 1 in the same sc as slip st, work 1 sc in next 48 sc; work, in last sc of row; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc]; sc in next st; work 1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc in next sc (2nd corner); work 1 sc in next 49 sc, [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] in next sc (last stitch in row); 1 sc in next st; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next sc (last corner), slip st into first sc of rnd to join

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc 1 in the same sc as slip st, work 1 sc across to ch 2 space; work; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc]; sc in next 3 sc; work 1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc in next sc (2nd corner); work 1 sc across to ch 2 space, [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] in ch 2 space; 1 sc in next 3 sc; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next ch2 sp, sc in next sc, slip st into first sc of rnd to join

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc 1 in the same sc as slip st, work 1 sc across to ch 2 space; work; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc]; sc in next 5 sc; work 1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc in next sc (2nd corner); work 1 sc across to ch 2 sp, [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] in ch 2 space; 1 sc in next 5 sc; [1 sc 2 ch, 1 sc] in next ch 2 sp, sc in next 2 sc, slip st into first sc of rnd to join

Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc 1 in the same sc as slip st, work 1 sc across to ch 2 space; work; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc]; sc in next 7 sc; work 1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc in next sc (2nd corner); work 1 sc across to ch 2 space, [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] in ch 2 space; 1 sc in next 7 sc; [1 sc 2 ch, 1 sc] in next ch 2 sp, sc in next 3 sc, slip st into first sc of rnd to join

Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc 1 in the same sc as slip st, work 1 sc across to ch 2 sp; work; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc]; sc in next 9 sc; work 1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc in next sc (2nd corner); work 1 sc across to ch 2 space, [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] in ch 2 space; 1 sc in next 9 sc; [1 sc 2 ch, 1 sc] in next ch 2, sc in next 4 sc, slip st into first sc of rnd to join

Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc 1 in the same sc as slip st, work 1 sc across to ch 2 space; work [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc]; sc in next 11 sc; work 1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc in next sc (2nd corner); work 1 sc across to ch 2 space, [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] in ch 2 space; 1 sc in next 11 sc; {1 sc 2 ch, 1 sc} in next ch 2 sp, sc in next 5 sc, slip st into first sc of rnd to join, sl st to end off.

Rnd 8: Slip stitch in any ch 2 corner, 3 sc in ch 2 corner, sc in each sc around making 3 sc in each ch 2 corner, sl st to join.

Rnds 9-14: sc in same st as sl st and in each sc around, sl st to join.

Rnd 15: Ch 4 (counts as beginning v-stitch), dc in same st, (1st v-stitch made) * skip next 2 sc, [dc, ch 1, dc; v-stitch] in next sc; repeat from * across, sl st in to 3rd stitch of ch. Total 56 v-stiches.

Rnd 16: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in first ch 1 sp, 3 dc in each ch sp across. Sl st to join 168 sts

Rnd 17: Ch 1, sc in first 2 dc * ch 3, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc; repeat from * across to last st, sl st in top of beginning ch,to join.

Rnd 18: Ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 3, [sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 3] across, skip next sc, sc in last sc: sl st to join. 56 ch 3 sps.

Rnd 19: Ch 4, dc in first ch-3 sp, [dc, ch 1, dc; v-stitch] in each ch-3 sp. across, sl st. to join.

Rnds 20-43: Repeat Rows 16-19 ; 6 times.

Rnd 44: ch 1, 2 sc in the first ch 1 sp, 3 sc in each ch-sp across, sl st. to join.

Rnds 45-50: sc in each sc around, sl st to join, sl st to end at end of Rnd 50.

Straps (make 2), Hook size E.

Chain 8 leaving a long tail to attach to bag,

Row 1, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each of remaining 6 sc., turn.

Rows 2-126, ch 1 sc in each of 7 sc. Do not fasten off, sc in each stitch around outsides of strap, making [sc, 1 ch, sc] in each corner. Fasten off leaving long tail to attach to bag.

Position straps 3-1/2" from outside edge of bag. Attach using tails. (I sewed with regular sewing thread first and then used tails to finish).

Multicoloured Crochet Bag

Way back in July, you may remember me making this bag. It's my own design, made on a whim and I was/am absurdly proud of it. It has received much admiration when I jaunt about with it on my shoulder, and it has proven to be a very practical bag for stashing yarn in. Very Crochety indeed. I've had countless emails and requests for this pattern, and in truth I have been putting it off a little. Well more than a little, seeing as it is now more than three months down the line. I find writing patterns so daunting, but I will try to do my very best for you, to share this woolly baggy goodness with you all.

First some yarn info :: I used Debbie Bliss yarn, called Merino Aran. I got it in a sale, and it has now been discontinued, and I don't think there is an equivalent. It is not to be confused with her Cashmerino, which is softer and lighter. This Aran yarn is pure wool and quite thick, and is known as "aran weight", where as the Cashmerino is a DK weight. But really you can use whatever yarn tickles your fancy, just that the sizing might be smaller if you use a lighter weight yarn. Hook size :: I used a 4mm hook. Even though it's supposed to be a 5mm hook size for this weight yarn, I used 4mm and it made the stitches quite tight, which turned out good for this type of bag.

Now before we begin, can we just clarify the difference between UK and US terms :: this bag is made using a US double crochet (dc) stitch, which is equivalent to UK treble (tr). For this pattern I am going to use US terminology, simply because most patterns I've come across are written this way and I've got so used to calling this stitch a dc (apologies to all you UK treblers!)

Begin by chaining 4 and joining to form a ring.

For the very first round you will work out of the central ring, but for all other rounds, work out of the stitches. When I work out of the stitches, I insert the hook through both loops of the stitch (as shown above), because I think it makes a stronger stitch. But you can just go through the back loop if thats what you're used to. Round 1 :: chain 3 (counts as 1 dc), then work 10 more dc stitches INTO THE RING. Join with a slip stitch to 3rd chain of initial chain 3. Don't fasten off, keep same colour. (you should have 11 stitches in your circle) Round 2 :: slip stitch into first dc stitch to begin. Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc), then 1 dc into SAME STITCH. *dc twice into next stitch*. Repeat between **, making two dc's into each stitch. Slip stitch to 3rd chain of initial chain 3 and fasten off (you should now have 22 stitches in your circle)

Round 3 :: join a new colour by knotting it tightly and leaving tails to darn in, then pull a loop through to the front (as shown above). Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc), then dc into same stitch. *dc once into next stitch, then dc twice into next stitch*. Repeat between **, alternating between single and double dc's in each stitch. Slip stitch to 3rd chain of initial chain 3 and fasten off. Round 4 :: Join in a new colour and pull a loop through to front to begin. Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc), then dc into same stitch. *dc once into next 2 stitches, dc twice into next stitch*. Repeat between ** until you complete the round. Slip stitch to 3rd chain of initial chain 3 and fasten off. Round 5 :: Join in a new colour and pull a loop through to front to begin. Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc), then dc into same stitch. *dc once into next 3 stitches, dc twice into next stitch*. Repeat between ** until you complete the round. Slip stitch to 3rd chain of initial chain 3 and fasten off. Round 6 :: Join in a new colour and pull a loop through to front to begin. Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc), then dc into same stitch. *dc once into next 4 stitches, dc twice into next stitch*. Repeat between ** until you complete the round. Slip stitch to 3rd chain of initial chain 3 and fasten off. Round 7 :: Join in a new colour and pull a loop through to front to begin. Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc), then dc into same stitch. *dc once into next 5 stitches, dc twice into next stitch*. Repeat between ** until you complete the round. Slip stitch to 3rd chain of initial chain 3 and fasten off. Can you see the pattern emerging here? Each round you increase the gap between the double-dc stitches by 1. You should be producing a reasonably flat circle which forms the bottom of the bag, and you can choose

how big to make it. My bag has 14 of these increase rows in total, so in the final row 14, there should be 12 single dc's in between each double-dc. Hope that makes sense.

Now when you're happy you have the size of bottom you require (!!), all you need to do is stop increasing, ie stop making any double-dc stitches. In the picture above, my last increase round was the deep red colour :: the mustardy yellow colour was then the first round with no increase, see? Isn't this so easy? All you do now is continue changing yarn colours and simply work dc stitches all the way round (I think its roughly 154 stitches for each round, I just counted on my bag). Remember to continue working with the outside/right side facing you, don't get confused and suddenly begin working from the inside like I did, cos it goes all wrong. You can decide how deep you wish to make it :: my bag has 38 rows total :: 14 for the bottom, and 24 to make the sides.

SHELL EDGING This is a lovely way to finish off the top of the bag, and is pretty easy to do. It only involves clusters of dc stitches and slip stitches, with gaps in between. Make sure the outside of the bag is facing you, you are working the edging from the outside. Join in a new colour and pull a loop through to the front to begin. *Skip 2 stitches, then dc 7 times into the next stitch.

Skip 2 stitches, then slip stitch into the next stitch.* Repeat between **

HANDLES These can be as long or short as you like :: the ones I made measure 64cm long. I wanted them quite tight and strong so I used long lines of Single Crochet (double crochet for UK peeps). So make a long chain the length you would like the handles to be, I think mine were roughly 95 stitches. *Begin in 2nd chain from hook and work a row of sc to the end. Now you can tie in a new colour if you like, or keep the one single colour. Chain 2 and turn*. Continue working rows of sc as above between **, making the straps as wide as you like (mine were 7 rows, 3cm wide). I know it's obvious really, but don't forget you'll need to make two handles. Position the handles on the bag (I spaced mine to have 4 "shell edgings" between each end of the handle (see top picture). Pin in place, overlapping the handle onto the outside of the bag by about 4cm or so. Stitch in place :: stitch thoroughly right round the end of the handle, as firmly as you can make it. You'll be able to cover up the stitching with a flower motif so don't worry too much about what it looks like, just make it strong.

Flowers and Leaves for the bag

I created the patterns for these little flowers and leaves. They are wonderful and quick to make and can be put to all sorts of pretty uses: use them to embellish bags, hats, make them into brooches. Try making lots of them and string them together as a scarf or to make your own flowery bunting decoration. I've used Rowan Handknit DK cotton with a 4mm hook for these as it's what I had to hand and also an easy and clear yarn to work with for photographs. But I've also made these flowers using wool (both Cashmerino and Aran wools) and they work just as well. Just use whatever yarn tickles your fancy, with whatever hook goes with it. I will be using US terms throughout (sorrryyyy to UK peeps, but I find it easier to think in US terms). As well as making chains, you will need to use slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc), half double crochet (hdc) and double crochet (dc). As follows :: sl st :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch, then through the loop on your hook. sc:: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook. hdc :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook. dc :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops. OK..ready??? Here we go.....

To begin, chain 4 and join into a ring. You will be working out of the ring for the fist round, even though the ring looks small. Round 1 :: Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc 11 times into ring, join with a sl st to 3rd chain of initial chain 3 (12 stitches/spokes in the wheel). Fasten off.

Round 2 :: You are working out of the stitches in this round. Join in a new colour (make a tight knot to the old colour and pull the new colour through a stitch to the front). Chain 4 (counts as chain 3, plus 1 sc), miss a stitch, then make 1 sc into next stitch. *Chain 3, miss a stitch, then sc into next stitch* Repeat between **, four more times until you get back to the beginning. Sl st into first chain. You should have 6 chain-3 loops around your middle wheel.

Round 3 :: In this round, you are working out of the chain-3 loops you just made. Keep same colour as in round 2. To make the first petal, work the following stitches, all under the first chain-3 loop :: *sl st, hdc, hdc, dc, hdc, hdc, sl st*. Repeat between **,five more times, working your way round under each chain-3 loops to create six petals in total. Fasten off.

You can use the flower like this, maybe adding a button to the centre if you wish. Or, you can add in a second colour and make an additional round of smaller petals as follows ::

Round 4 :: you are working out of the missed stitches from the first round (see above pic)

With yarn held at the front of the flower, pull a loop through any central "missed stitch" from the first round (as above)

You may find it easier to bend the petal back as you work (as above)

For each small petal, work out of the missed stitch as follows:: *sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc*. Repeat between **, five more times, working your way round the flower and creating each small petal out of the central "missed stitches" of the first round. Join to first sc with sl st.

And there you have it, your double-petalled flower, isn't it cute?? Did you have fun?? You can stitch a button in the centre if you like, or leave as it is, tis up to you.

OK leaves now :: same stitches as for the flower.The leaf is made in two rows. If you are new to crochet, you may find this a little tricky. I know it can sometimes be hard to know which exact loop/stitch you should be putting your hook into. I always work through both loops of each stitch (see pic above). It just takes practice, trust me. Start by leaving a longish tail end as you can then use this to stitch the leaf in place at the end. Chain 9.

Row 1 :: Beginning in 2nd chain from hook, work the following stitches to the end of the row :: sc, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, hdc, sc.

Chain 1, and turn. Row 1 should like like half a leaf, as in above pic.

Row 2 :: Beginning in 2nd chain from hook, work the following stitches to the end of the row :: sc, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, hdc, sc. Fasten off, leaving a tail end long enough to darn with.

The leaf should look fairly leaf-shaped, but hey-ho it doesn't have to be perfect.

Using a darning needle, thread the tail end down through the centre of the leaf (as above). You can use the yarn from the beginning of the leaf to stitch it to the back of the flower, or wherever you want the leaf to be.

When I made my bag, I made up these flowers with two leaves attached and a yellow button sown in the centre, but you can do with them what you wish.

Chic on the Halfshell Purse

By: Drew Emborsky A lightweight Chic on the Halfshell Purse can hold everything comfortably and is incredibly stylish. This trendy piece will get everyone talking.

Materials: Sport Weight Yarn approx. 3 oz Crochet Hook, Size H [5.00 mm] Instructions: FOR SIDES (make 2) Rnd 1: Ch 4, 11 dc in fourth ch from hook, slip st to top of beginning ch. (12 dc) Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Slip st to top of beginning ch. (24 dc) The following are only partial rounds used to create an oblong shaped fabric. Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in same st. 2 dc in next 19 sts, leaving four sts unworked. (40 dc) Rnd 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in front loop of same st and in front loop of each st around. (40 sc) Rnd 5: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st around. (40 dc) Rnd 6: Ch 1, turn, sc in front loop of same st, *2 sc in front loop of next st, sc in front loop of next st* around. (60 sc) Rnd 7: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st around. (60 dc) Rnd 8: Ch 1, turn, sc in front loop of same st, *2 sc in front loop of next st, sc in front loop of next st* nine times. (28 sc) Rnd 9: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st around. (28 dc) Rnd 10: Ch 1, turn, sc in front loop of same st, *2 sc in front loop of next st, sc in front loop of next st* 12 times. (37 sc) Rnd 11: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st around. (37 dc) Fasten off. With wrong side facing, skip 23 sts on Rnd 7 and continue as follows: Rnd 8: Attach with a sc in the front loop of st, *2 sc in front loop of next st, sc in front loop of next st* nine times. (28 sc) Rnd 9: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st around. (28 dc) Rnd 10: Ch 1, turn, slip st in same st and next 2 sts, sc in front loop of next st, *2 sc in front loop of next st, sc in front loop of next st* 12 times. (37 sc) Rnd 11: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st around. (37 dc) Fasten off. ASSEMBLY With right sides facing join together with a row of sc leaving center of purse open. Fasten off, turn right side out. Make handle by joining two sts to the right of one of the top seams. Crochet 22 rows of 4 sc.

Whipstitch handle to opposite side of purse. Work one row of sc around sides of purse handles and around U shaped section of each side. Use the closure of your choice. The photo shows a simple snap closure sewn into the inside of the purse. Notes: Finished size: Approximately 12 at widest point and 10 tall with handle Gauge: 14 sts & 3 rows = 4 X 4 in dc. Special instructions: Divide yarn into two equal amounts and hold two strands of sport weight yarn together throughout.

Pencil or Cosmetics Bag

Use as a school pencil bag, for cosmetics or a handbag. Design your own bag by changing the colors or use patches, beads, flowers to decorate the bag. Below are two examples:

The bags in the photos do not have a zipper yet This pattern can be made using any yarn you wish. Choose a hook size that matches the yarn. Materials: 1) 4.00 mm hook 2) Worsted Weight yarn (white, orange, brown and light green) 3) Black embroidery floss 4) Two 10 mm black buttons 5) Tapestry needle 6) Sewing needle and thread for attaching buttons 7) One 6.5 Zipper Size: approximately 4x 8 (10 x 20.5 cm) Abbreviations: ch = chain sc = single crochet st = stitch sl = slip tog = together rnd = round Notes:

1) The bag is working in rows; the rows start with chain one and join with slip stitch at the end of the row. 2) Tail and Eyes are working in continuous rounds. 3) Mark first stitch of each row/round.

Bag:
Row 1: With orange, ch 31, sc in second chain from hook, sc in next 28 chs, 3 sc in next ch; working in remaining loops on opposite side of ch, sc in next 28 chs, 2 sc in next ch, join with sl st in first st. (62) Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 28 sts, 2 sc in next 3 sts, sc in next 28 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, join with sl st in first st. (68)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 28 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 28 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) 2 times, join with sl st in first st. (74) Row 4-13: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st in first st. Row 14: Ch 1, (sc in next 35 sts, sc next 2 sts tog) 2 times, join with sl st in first st. (72) Row 15: Ch 1, (sc in nest 34 sts, sc next 2 sts tog) 2 times, join with sl st in first st. (70) Row 16: Ch 1, (sc in next 33 sts, sc next 2 sts tog) 2 times, join with sl st in first st. (68) Row 17: Ch 1, (sc in next 32 sts, sc next 2 sts tog) 2 times, join with sl st in first st. (66) Row 18: Ch 1, (sc in next 31 sts, sc next 2 sts tog) 2 times, join with sl st in first st. (64) Row 19: Ch 1, (sc in next 30 sts, sc next 2 sts tog) 2 times, join with sl st in first st, fasten off. (62) Optional decorative Bow:

Bow: Working in rows. Row 1: With light green, ch 2, 3 sc in second chain from hook, turn. (3) Row 2-5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (3) Row 6: Ch 1, sc 3 sts tog, turn. (1) Row 7: Ch 1, 3 sc in first st, turn. (3) Row 8-11: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (3) Row 12: Ch 1, sc 3 sts tog, fasten off. (1) Sew row 1 and row 12 together Middle piece: Row 1: Ch 7, sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 5 chs, leave long end for sewing, fasten off. (6) Sew the middle piece around middle of bow.

Small ruffly purse

c&c welcome. per request: Little Ruffled Girly-Girl Purse Supplies: 1sk worsted MC (for body of purse), 1sk worsted AC (for ruffle), 1 button about 5/8 (or the size to fit between your stitch), H hook Gauge: we dont need no stinkin gauge! (just make sure you work even enough for your front & back to

match.) Front Ch 19 in MC R1. HD in 3rd chain from hook, 17 more HD across. 18 HD completed. R2. Ch 2, turn, HD, 2HD in 3rd st, HD in next 6 st, 2HD, HD in next 5 st, 2HD, HD in last 2 st. 21 HD completed. R3. Ch 2, turn, HD, 2HD in 3rd st, HD in next 4 st, 2HD in 8th st, HD in next 5 st, 2HD in 14th st, HD in next 4 st, 2HD in 19th st, HD in last 2 st. 25 HD completed. R4. Ch 2, turn, HD, 2HD in 3rd st, HD in next 4 st, 2HD in 8th st, HD in next 4 st, 2HD in 13th st, HD in next 4 st, 2HD in 18th st, HD in next 4 st, 2HD in 23 st, HD in last 2 st. 30 HD completed. R5. Ch 2, turn, HD across even. 30 HD completed. R6. Ch 2, turn, HD, HD Dec in 3rd & 4th st, HD in next 4 st, HD Dec in 9th & 10th st, HD in next 4 st, HD Dec in 15th & 16th st, HD in next 4 st, HD Dec in 21st & 22nd st, HD in next 4 st, HD Dec in 27th & 28th st, HD in last 2 st. 25 HD completed. R7. Ch 2, turn, HD, HD Dec in 3rd & 4th st, HD in next 4 st, HD Dec in 9th & 10th st, HD in next 5 st, HD Dec in 16th & 17th st, HD in next 4 st, HD Dec in 22nd & 23rd st, HD in last 2 st. 21 HD completed. R8. Ch 2, turn, HD, HD Dec in 3rd & 4th st, HD in next 6 st, HD Dec in 11th & 12th st, HD in next 5 st, HD Dec in 18th & 19th st, HD in last 2 st. 18 HD completed. R9. Ch 2, turn, HD, HD Dec in 3rd & 4th st, HD in next 10 st, HD Dec in 15th & 16th st, HD in last 2 st. 16 HD completed.

Back Ch 19 in MC R1. HD in 3rd chain from hook, 17 more HD across. 18 HD completed. R2. Ch 2, turn, HD, 2HD in 3rd st, HD in next 6 st, 2HD, HD in next 5 st, 2HD, HD in last 2 st. 21 HD completed. R3. Ch 2, turn, HD, 2HD in 3rd st, HD in next 4 st, 2HD in 8th st, HD in next 5 st, 2HD in 14th st, HD in next 4 st, 2HD in 19th st, HD in last 2 st. 25 HD completed. R4. Ch 2, turn, HD, 2HD in 3rd st, HD in next 4 st, 2HD in 8th st, HD in next 4 st, 2HD in 13th st, HD in next 4 st, 2HD in 18th st, HD in next 4 st, 2HD in 23 st, HD in last 2 st. 30 HD completed. R5. Ch 2, turn, HD across even. 30 HD completed. R6. Ch 2, turn, HD, HD Dec in 3rd & 4th st, HD in next 4 st, HD Dec in 9th & 10th st, HD in next 4 st, HD Dec in 15th & 16th st, HD in next 4 st, HD Dec in 21st & 22nd st, HD in next 4 st, HD Dec in 27th & 28th st, HD in last 2 st. 25 HD completed. R7. Ch 2, turn, HD, HD Dec in 3rd & 4th st, HD in next 4 st, HD Dec in 9th & 10th st, HD in next 5 st, HD Dec in 16th & 17th st, HD in next 4 st, HD Dec in 22nd & 23rd st, HD in last 2 st. 21 HD completed. R8. Ch 2, turn, HD, HD Dec in 3rd & 4th st, HD in next 6 st, HD Dec in 11th & 12th st, HD in next 5 st, HD Dec in 18th & 19th st, HD in last 2 st. 18 HD completed. R9. Ch 2, turn, HD, HD Dec in 3rd & 4th st, HD in next 10 st, HD Dec in 15th & 16th st, HD in last 2 st. 16 HD completed. R10-11. Ch 2, turn, HD across even. 16 HD completed. R12. Ch 2, turn, HD, HD Dec in 3rd & 4th st, HD in next 8 st, HD Dec in 13th & 14th st, HD in last 2 st. 14 HD completed. R13. Ch 2, turn, HD in next 6 st, HD Dec in 7th & 8th st, HD in last 6 st. 13 HD completed. R14. Ch 2, turn, HD in next 5 st, HD Dec in 7th & 8th st, HD in last 5 st. 12 HD completed. R15. Turn & Sl St in 1st st (This is your first stitch for this row. Do not chain.), HD Dec in next 2 st, HD in next 6 st, HD Dec in next 2 st, Sl St in final stitch & turn. 8 HD completed. R16. Turn & Sl St in 1st st (This is your first stitch for this row. Do not chain.), HD Dec in next 2 st, HD in next 2 st, HD Dec in next 2 st, Sl St in final stitch & turn. 4 HD completed.

Joining & Ruffle Line up front & back at the bottoms. Starting at the top right corner of the front where the sides meet, begin SC around joining both sides using AC. When you get to the top of the left front side, continue SC around the top of the back. This will be the flap. When you get back to where you start Skiing, join & Chain 1. 2SC in each st around to the flap, then 1 SC in each stitch around the flap. Join & Ch 2. 3HD in each st around to the flap, then 2HD around to the start & join. The changes on the flap make it less ruffled. Button Decide where on the Front you want your button & sew it on (or however your particular button attaches). It will be fastened through the space between the stitches on your flap.

Gift Bag

Materials List 4 ply wool yarn and 3 mm hook. Finished Size Size: bottom diameter 4" (10 cm) high 10" (25.5 cm) Big enough for a doll! The Pattern Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in second chain from hook. (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12) Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around. (18) Rnd 4: (Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (24) Rnd 5: (Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (30) Rnd 6: (Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (36) Rnd 7: (Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (42) Rnd 8: (Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (48) Rnd 9: (Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (54) Rnd 10: (Sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (60) Rnd 11: (Sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (66) Rnd 12: (Sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (72) Rnd 13: (Sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (78) Rnd 14: (Sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (84) Rnd 15: Working in back loops only. Sc in each st around. Rnd 16-23: Sc in each st around. Rnd 24: Sc in each st around, join with sl st in first st. Rnd 25-47: Ch 4, skip 1 st, dc in next st, (dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st, dc in next st) around, join with sl st in first st. Rnd 48: Ch 1, sc in same st, (sc in next ch, sc in next 2 sts) 27 times, sc in next ch, sc in next st, join with sl st in first st. Rnd 49: Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 3, sc in next st, (sc in next st, ch 3, sc in next st) around, join with sl st in first st. Fasten off. String: Ch 150, fasten off.

Small ball (make 2): Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in second chain from hook. (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12) Rnd 3-5: Sc in each st around. Rnd 6: Sc next 2 sts tog around, join with sl st in first st, fasten off. Stuff, sew opening close. (12) Put the string through the holes on rnd 43. Sew small balls to end of chains. Copyright, Attribution and Reprint Copyright 2009 Sayjai Thawornsupacharoen. This is a free pattern. You are not allowed to sell this pattern. You are allowed to reprint this pattern if you make it available for free and do not charge money for it. You may sell finished bags based on this pattern. You are required to put clearly the following two paragraphs in your adds/publications/finished bags: The original pattern is available on the blog of K and J Dolls: http://kandjdolls.blogspot.com/

Crochet Hobo Bag

Designed By: Mary Jane Protus Supplies: RED HEART Artesano: 2 Balls 4375 Exotic. Crochet Hook: 5.5mm [US I-9]. 12" Two-Slider Zipper (Coats & Clark Art.F.53), yarn needle, sewing needle and matching thread. Size: Bag measures 16" wide x 21" tall, including strap. Gauge/Tension: GAUGE: 14 sc = 4"; 10 rows = 4" in sc. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge. Special Abbreviations: sc2tog (sc dec) = Insert hook into st and draw up a loop. Insert hook into next st and draw up a loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook. BAG (Front and Back Alike) Ch 27. Row 1 (Right Side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch, [2 sc in next ch, sc in next 2 ch] 8 times 34 sc. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across. Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first sc, sc across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc 36 sc. Rows 4-13: Repeat Rows 2-3 for 5 more times 46 sc. Rows 14-16: Repeat Row 2. Row 17: Repeat Row 3 48 sc. Repeat Rows 14-17 twice more 52 sc. Work even piece measures 10 from beginning, end with a wrong side row. Shape Top Left Side Row 1: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 18 sc, slip st in next sc. Leave remaining sts unworked. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, skip slip st and next sc, slip st in next sc, sc across 16 sc. Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc to last sc, slip st in last sc 15 sc. Rows 4-7: Repeat Rows 2-3 twice more 9 sc. Rows 8-10: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across. Fasten off. Right Side Row 1: With right side facing, skip center 14 sc, join yarn with slip st in next sc, sc in each sc to end 18 sc. Work as for Left Side, reversing shaping. FINISHING Sew Front and Back together along bottom and side edges. Strap Row 1: With right side facing, join yarn in first sc on last row of one Top edge, ch 1, work 18 sc across both sides of Top edge. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first sc, sc2tog, sc across to last 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in last sc 16 sc.

Rows 3-5: Repeat Row 2 10 sc. Work even until Strap measures 18 from Top edge, end with a right side row. Increase Row: Ch 1, turn, sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc across to last 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last sc 12 sc. Repeat Increase Row 3 more times 18 sc. Last Row: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across. Fasten off, leaving a long end for sewing. Sew end of Strap to last row of opposite Top edge. Fold long edge of Strap in half to wrong side and sew closed. Top Opening Sew Top edge of Front and Back together for 2 from each Strap on either side for opening for zipper. Zipper Edge Round With right side facing, join yarn at zipper opening, ch 1, sc evenly around, slip st in first sc. Fasten off. Sew zipper into zipper opening.

Key Ring Pouch

Designed By: Kathleen Sams Supplies: RED HEART Heart & Sole with Aloe: 1 ball 3960 Spring Stripe or 3966 Toasted Almond. Crochet Hook: 3.25 mm [US D-3]. Split lock stitch marker; yarn needle. Size: Pouch measures 3 x 3. Gauge/Tension: GAUGE: 14 sts = 2; 16 rounds = 2 in sc rounds. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge. Special Abbreviation
inc (increase) = 2 sc in next sc.

POUCH Round 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; DO NOT JOIN but work in continuous rounds. Mark end of round. Move marker up each round. Round 2: [Inc] 6 times 12 sc. Round 3: [Inc, sc in next sc] 6 times 18 sc. Round 4: [Inc, sc in next 2 sc] 6 times 24 sc. Round 5: [Inc, sc in next 3 sc] 6 times 30 sc. Round 6: [Inc, sc in next 4 sc] 6 times 36. Round 7: [Inc, sc in next 5 sc] 6 times 42. Rounds 8-20: Sc in each sc around. At the end of Round 20, join with a slip st in next sc. Round 21: Ch 4 (counts as a dc and ch-1), skip next sc, *dc in next sc, ch 1, skip next sc; repeat from * around; join with a slip st in 3rd ch of ch-3. Round 22: Ch 1, 2 sc in each ch-1 space around; join with a slip st in first sc. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Make 1 or 2 twisted cords starting with a 3-yard length of yarn for each. Bring the cut ends together and tie a knot close to the ends forming a large loop. Secure the knotted end to a stable surface or have a friend hold the end. Slip a pencil into the loop and hold the yarn just below the loop and the pencil. Holding the yarn taut, twirl the pencil, thereby twisting the yarn, until the entire length is tightly twisted and begins to twist back upon itself. Bring the loop end and the knotted end together. Tie with an overhand knot. Trim the ends. Smooth out the kinks so that the cord lies flat and is evenly twisted along its length. Weave each cord through the ch-1 spaces of Round 17 (in opposite directions if using 2). Knot ends of cord together;
trim ends.

Little Wrist Bag

Soft Worsted Weight Yarn. G hook Chain 60. Join. From this point you will crochet without joining. Round 1: Single crochet in each stitch around, with 2 single crochet in the last chain. ( 60 stitches) Round 2: Single crochet 2 together around. (30 stitches) Round 3: Single crochet around. (30 stitches) Round 4: 14 single crochet, chain 2 & skip 2 stitches, 14 single crochet. (28 single crochet & 2 chain) Round 5: 14 single crochet, 2 single crochet in chain 2 space, 14 single crochet. ( 30 stitches) You have formed the hole for your wrist loop. Round 6: *2 single crochet in next stitch, 1 single crochet in next stitch,* repeat between * around. (45 stitches) Rounds 7- 28: Single crochet around. (45 stitches) Round 29: Single crochet 2 together around ending with 1 single crochet in last stitch. (23 stitches) Round 30: Single crochet. (23 stitches) Round 31 -:Single crochet 2 together around until 6 stitches remain. Cut yarn leaving tail long enough to thread through 6 remaining stitches & pull tight. Secure and hide end. Loop for Wrist Join yarn on the inside of the bag opposite the hole formed earlier. Chain 40 stitches and join to beginning of the chain. Leaving an end long enough to secure and hide cut yarn. Finish off.

Half-circle crochet purse

Needs to be lined but i don't think i'll do that. I just need it to hold my wallet and my cell.

Yarn inside to hold it's shape.

I made this pattern up as I went. But you can make up your own with different stitches. You could also keep going after round 16 if you desire a bigger size. This is basically two half circles chained together. So you have to do this pattern twice then chain them together. The handle is just sc back and forth till desired length is reached then you just stitch the handle to the purse. sc - single crochet dc - double crochet hdc - half double crochet Purse pattern Chain 4 then close to form a circle 1st round crochet 7 sc in middle of circle 2nd round sc twice in first 5 chains turn and start back the other way (now all you do is crochet half of the circle and turn back every time you finish that round.) 3rd round sc twice in the now 10 chains 4th round dc and chain 1 in the 20 chains 5th round dc and chain 1 in the spaces between each previous dc stitches 6th round sc in each chain

7th round *sc in first two chains and on third sc twice (repeat from asterisk till end) 8th round sc in each chain 9th round dc and chain 1 in each chain 10th round dc in the spaces between each previous dc stitches 11th round-13th round sc in each chain 14th round dc and chain 1 in each chain 15th round hdc in the spaces between each previous dc stitches 16th round-18th round sc in each chain Once both half circles are done just stitch the round bottoms together and turn inside out add handle and youre done! Check pic.

Crocheted Handbag - Clutch Purse Crochet Pattern

"Whether in a single color as pictured or in varied stripes, this is a bag that will out-wear many of the ready-to-use type. If wanted in colors to match the costume, any of the bright shades of Enterprise Yarn may be used." Materials: Three balls will make the bag in a single colorone ball each of 3 colors will do it with stripes across the bag in mixed shades. A piece of buckram will be needed for stiffening; and lining material. If buckram is not available a satisfactory substitute can be made at home a piece of fairly heavy cloth, duck, muslin or flour sacking will do. Make slightly larger than neededdip in thick hot starch, and when dry apply one or two coats shellac on both sidestrim to size. Steel Crochet Hook No. 1. Ch 65, 64 sc on ch. * Ch 3, turn, 1 dc in 1 loop of each st (64 dc). Ch 1, turn, 1 dc in remaining loop of each st, sl st in 3-ch. Ch 2, turn, (1 dc in 1 loop of each dc on front row) across to end. Skip 1-ch at end of previous row, ch 1, turn, 1 dc thru back loop of last dc and down at back thru a single loop of first dc in back row, (dc thru next dc on both front and back rows, fastening them together) repeated to end. Repeat from * for 15 ribs. Ch 3, turn, (dc in last 3 dc) worked off together into a Cluster, dc across to fourth from end, (dc in 3 end dc) made into a Cluster. Ch 1, turn, and repeat this row in remaining loop of each st, sl st in first Cluster. Ch-2, turn, and repeat this same row across, then complete rib with sc instead of dc. Work sc around entire piece, putting 5 sc across end of each rib. Fasten off. Gusset: Ch 4, 15 dc in first st, sl st in 3-ch. Ch 3, in back loops, 2 dc in each dc. Ch 3, turn, in both loops, dc in 2 dc, then 1 hdc, 2 sc, 1 hdc and 2 dc. (Ch 1, turn, 8 sc) 17 times. Fasten off. Make 2. Pin work right-sidedown in true shape, rub back with a cloth dipped in hot starch, and press dry. Cut buckram slightly narrower than bag and 1/2" shorter in length. Hold in bag, ends even and fold flap between 14th and 15th ribs. Cut lining 1/2" larger, fold edges over on back of buckram and fasten with sticky tape, making lining tauter lengthwise than buckram. Sew in bag. Fold top of gussets lengthwise down to circle, wrong-side-out, press fold, line on wrong side and sew one in each end. Cord: Cut 4 strands 6 2/3-yds. long, (double and twist tightly) twice. Fasten loose end. Sew around edge of bag, except across top of front. Button: Ch 2, 6 sc in first st. In back loops, 2 sc in each sc. Sc in 24 sc (2 rows). (Sc in next second sc) 5 times. Stuff with a 12" strand of yarn, then cotton close with sl sts. Make two and sew below flap, 3" from each end. If wanted, a metal, wood or shell slide or button may be used for closure. Fasten to crocheted loop or thru the button. Loop: Ch 19, skip 4 sts (dc in next 4, 6 dc in next st) twice, dc in 5 sts. Fasten off. Make 4. Sew together. in pairs back-to-back. Steam and press thru a cloth and sew to flap to match buttons. Posted by Tina "Crochet" Calabrese at 1:29 PM Links to this post Labels: afghan stitch, tricot, tunisian free afghan pattern

Multiple Purpose Crochet Bag with Floral Trim

Finished Size: Approximately 12 inches diameter and 3 inches between the sides. Materials: 3 balls Enterprise Yarn Dark Blue (286), 1 ball each of Red (228) and Cream White (206). Steel Crochet Hook No. 3. Start at center with Blue and ch 5, sl st to first st for ring. Row 1: Ch 3, attach running thread here to carry at back of work, for ten rows. Draw up slightly as work progresses to make firm heavy stitches and work 11 sc in ring. Sl st to ch-3 (12 dc). Row 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in space between each dc, around. Sl st to ch-3 (24 dc). Row 3: Ch 3, dc in first space, dc in next, (2 dc in next, dc in next) repeat around. Sl st to ch-3 (36 dc). Row 4: Ch 3, dc in each of first 3 sps (2 dc in next, dc in next 2 sps) repeat around. Sl st to ch-3 (48 dc). Row 5: Ch 3, dc in first 4 sps. (2 dc in next, dc in next 3) repeat around. Sl st to ch-3 (60 dc). Rows 6 -10: Continue in same manner, adding 12 dc in every row, having 2 dc in each row over the 2 dc of previous row. Cut running thread. Fasten off. Center is now approximately 6" diameter. Row 11: With wrong side of work up, attach white with sc to either dc, * 2 dc in next st, holding final loop of each dc on hook, thread over and pull through all 3 loops on hook at once (I puff st made), sc in next sc, pulling it down tight and letting the puff st puff out on back of work, which will be the outside of bag. Repeat from * around. Sl st to sc. Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc in puff, sc in sc, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts) repeat around (149 sc). Sl st to first sc. Row 13: Ch 1, turn, puff st (ps) in last sc, (sc in next sc, ps in next) repeat around. Sl st to ps. Row 14: Ch 1, turn, (sc in sc, sc in ps) around (148 sc). Sl st to ch-l. Repeat Rows 13 and 14 twice. Join Red and work same as Row 11. Then repeat from Row 12 to complete 28th row of Side. Circle should now measure 12 inches. Make another Side in same way.

Row 19: With Red, work same as Row 11. Row 20: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in next 8 sts, (2 sc in next, sc in next 9 sts) repeat around. Sl st to ch-1. Row 21: Same as Row 13. Then repeat Rows 20 and 13. Row 24: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 5 sts (2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts) repeat around. Sl st to ch-1. Repeat Rows 13 and 20. Fasten off. Circle should now measure 12 inches in diameter. Make another piece to correspond. GUSSET (Section Between Sides): With Blue ch 18, sc in second st from hook (dc in next st, sc in next) repeat across. Row 2: Ch 2, turn, dc in last sc, (sc in next dc, dc in next sc) repeat across. Row 3: Ch 1, turn, (sc in last dc, dc in next sc) repeat across. Repeat Rows 2 and 3 alternately until 102 rows in all are complete. Work should be made firm and measure about 3 inches wide and 24 inches long. HANDLE: With Blue ch 12 and work as gusset for 108 rows. FLOWERS: With Red, ch 6, sl st in first st to form a ring, * ch 6, 3 tr in sixth st from hook, holding final loop of each tr on hook, thread over and thru all 4 loops on hook at once for a cluster, ch 3, sl st in cluster for a p, ch 6, sl st at base of cluster, 1 sc in ring. Repeat from * 4 times (5 petals). Fasten off. Make 2 more flowers. STEMS: With White, ch 25. Fasten off. Make 3 stems. Ch 60 in White for Bow. Fasten off. Sew flowers and stems to center of one circle and attach bow around stems as illustrated. Press or block each piece on wrong side before assembling. Line bag if desired: cut material for sides and gusset, allowing for seams and sew together. Sew sides and gusset together, inside out; do not draw or pucker when sewing. Handle is sewn to center of top edges, midway between ends of gusset. After sewing, pad handle and line if wanted. Slip lining over bag and pin, then sew around top and turn right side out. Posted by Tina "Crochet" Calabrese at 11:29 AM Links to this post Labels: vintage crochet bag free pattern flowers

Blackberry bobbles bag with pompons

Apart from having to replace a few pom-poms it has lasted much better than I thought a bag made from wool would.

Tutorial: Stitch pattern Blackberry Salad Stitch (The Harmony Guide to Crochet Stitches, Volume one, p42) I worked the following stitch pattern making a rectangle 52 tr across and 50 rows long, which using 3 balls of Jaeger Matchmaker and a 3mm hook (I think) made a bag 28 cm across (widest) and 18 ch high. I worked two rows in each colour: Ch multiple of 4 st + 3 1st row (right side): Miss 3ch (count as 1tr), 1tr into each ch to end, turn. 2nd row: 1ch, 1dc into each of the first 2 sts, *work tr5tog into next st, 1dc into each of next 3 sts; rep from * to last 3 sts, work tr5tog into next st, 1dc into each of last 2 sts (including top of tch), turn. 3rd row: 3ch (count as 1tr), miss first st, 1tr into each st to end, miss tch, turn. 4th row: 1ch, 1dc into each of first 4 sts, *work tr5tog into next st, 1dc into each of next 3 sts; rep from * ending 1dc into top of tch, turn.

5th row: As 3rd row. Rep 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th rows. My craptacular diagram to show how to shape and assemble this into a bag:

Oh, and I cut the excess crochet fabric that was pleated to make it less bulky (obviously shaping it would make more sense but I wasn't sure how big i wanted it to be).

Crocheted Cables bag

The purse shown was made with Peaches n' Creme 100% cotton yarn and a size F hook. It is 11" wide at the bottom, 12" from the bottom of the bag to the bottom of the handle, 17.5" from the bottom of the bag to the top of the handle, and the handles are 6 inches in diameter.

Cables Pattern NOTES: After Row3, you will never crochet a tr in a hdc. Like sts are always crocheted into like sts (e.g: hdc in hdc). Once you have crocheted a tr into a st, you will not work that st again in any way. "Ch 2" always counts as first hdc of next row. multiple of 8 sts plus 7 Row1: sc in second and remaining chs, ch 2, turn. Row2: hdc across, ch 2, turn. Row3: hdc in next 5 sts, *1 fptr in each of next 2 hdc of previous row, 1 hdc in each of next 6 sts--rep from * across. ch 2, turn. (This is the FRONT of the fabric. There will be no cables on the back.) Row4: hdc in next 5 sts, *skip 1 st, bptr in next st of prev row, bptr in skipped st, 1 hdc in each of next 6 sts-rep from * across. ch 2, turn. Repeat rows 3 and 4 until desired length, ending with row3. Next Row: hdc across. ch 1, turn. Last Row: sc across. finish off. To Make Purse Make a chain using the multiple given above. This will be the approximate width of your purse. Using the pattern given above, make a rectangle fabric. Keep in mind that this fabric will be folded in half to create the purse. Then you have the desired shape you wish, finish off and weave in the ends. Fold the fabric with the cables facing one another and sc up the two sides, leaving approximately 1.5 to 2 inches open at the

top of each side (these openings are benificial when using round handles). Turn right side out. Use this fabric as a template for your lining. Attach a magnetic snap to the lining at this time (before inserting). Attach the lining by hand-sewing it to the inside of the purse. By sewing to the inside part of the crochet sts, your sewing thread will not be visible on the outside. For the lining to be sewn in strongly, use doubled thread and sew around the piece twice, at least at the area of the magnetic strip. Attach the round handles of your choice by single crocheting or whip-stitching the top eadgings to each handle. Attach a broach, ribbon, or flower of your choic to the outside of your purse or leave it plain.

Drawstring Bag Crochet Pattern

Approximately 4 1/2" x 9" and 9" deep MATERIALS: Enterprise Yarn: 2 balls Green, 1 ball each of Lt. Brown, Dk. Orange and Yellow. Buckram for lining, if desired. Six 3\4" bone rings. Steel Crochet Hook No. 1.

BASE Row 1: In Green, ch 10, 9 sc on ch. Row 2: Ch 2, turn, 1 hdc and 2 sc in last sc, sc across with 2 sc and 1 hdc in end st. Rows 3 - 5: Ch 2, turn, 1 hdc and 1 sc in last st, sc across with 1 sc and 1 hdc in end st. Row 6: Work even. Row 7 - 10: Repeat Row 3. Rows 11 - 46: Work even.. Row 47: Ch 1, turn, skip last sc, sc across to second from end, sl st in end sc. Row 48: Ch 1, turn, skip sl st, sc across. Rows 49 - 50: Repeat Rows 47 and 48. Row 51: Repeat Row 47. Rows 52 - 53: Ch 2, turn, skip sl st and 1 sc, sc across to second from end, sl st in end sc. Row 54: Ch 3, turn, skip sl st and 2 sc, 9 sc, sl st. Fasten off. Work sc around (140 sc). Steam and press on back.

TOP In Lt. Brown, ch 140 loosely, sl st in first st, sc in next, (3 dc in next second st, sc in next 2) around (35 shells) sl st in first sc. Fasten off. Rnd 2: Turn, in Orange in back loops, sc in center dc of 1 shell, (hdc in next, a long dc over next sc, inserting hook at base of sc, hdc in next dc, sc in next) around. Sl st in first sc. Rnd 3: Ch 3, turn, dc in sl st, (sc in next long dc, 3 dc in next second st) around. End with 1 dc, sl st in 3-ch. Repeat Rnds 2 and 3 in Yellow, twice in Green, and once in Lt. Brown, Orange and Yellow. Repeat Rnd 2 in Green. Fasten off. Repeat entire piece and sew last rows together through 1 loop of each st, exactly matching pattern.

TOP EDGE In Brown, sc above 1 long dc, * (sc, ch 2, sc) above next shell, sc above next long dc. Repeat from * around. Fasten off. Press on inside of band. Cut cardboard slightly smaller than Base. Cut lining 1/2" larger, turn edge over on back and fasten with glue. Sew on back of Base. Cut lining to fit inside of bag, sew ends together, and sew one edge to edge of Base lining. Cut Buckram 3" wide and 2" longer than around inside of Top. Lap ends and tack inside Top 1/4" from bottom edge. Sew Top to Base. Hem lining down 1 1/2" from top. Mark top of lining at Center of each end and at 2 equally spaced points on each side and sew 6 rings inside bag. (If buckram is not available for lining, a satisfactory substitute can be made at home a piece of fairly heavy cloth, duck, muslin or flour sacking will do. Make slightly larger than needed and dip in thick hot starch. When dry apply one or two coats shellac on both sides. Allow to dry. Trim to size and fasten to top.)

TIES For one tie, cut 1 strand each Yellow and Brown 4 yards long, (fold the strand double and holding the folded end, twist tightly. Make another tie the same. Run a tie through rings from one side and sew ends together. Repeat with second tie from opposite side.

Wooden Handled Work Bag, Handbag or Purse

Wooden Handled Knitting or Crochet Work Bag - Or a Great Purse! CROCHETED UTILITY BAG Size 12 x 15 inches

MATERIAL: Dexter Boilproof Candlewick Yarn, Art. 285; 5 skeins 612 Lt. green, 4 skeins brown 618. Crochet Hook No. 1. 1 Pr. 11 inch bag handles. Using brown. ch 75. lst row. 1 sc in 2nd st and in each of remaining sts on chain (74 a c) ch 1, turn. Work eleven rows in dark, make 1 sc in each sc of row below taking up one thread of stitch only. 13th row. Attach light green and work 16 rows same as brown, attach brown and work same as first stripe of brown. Fasten yarn. Fold piece in center and crochet sides together within 4 1/2 inches of top of bag. continuing around both edges using light green. For this joining at and edging, fasten yarn at one corner of folded bag, make 1 sc, 1 half dc in one sp, ch 1, 1 ac, 1 half dc in next space, repeat around.

Sew handles to bag using a large needle and light green yarn.

Crocheted purse
Sue's CrochetandKnitting.com http://www.crochetandknitting.com

MATERIALS 2 - 50g balls of 4 ply knitting worsted. (This is an estimate, I usually buy larger sizes, so I am really not sure how much I used) Hook - 4.50mm 1 - Button (1" diameter) or a strip of Velcro. My notes, are in blue. NOTE: I made this purse in black, but the picture would not come out very well. You couldn't see the stitches nor where the flap ended. So I changed the settings on my camera and software program to reverse the color. Abbreviations used: st - stitch ch - chain ss - slip stitch sc - single crochet hdc - half double crochet beg - beginning tog - together

Ch 31 to begin RND 1 - (Note: You will be crocheting down the chain and then you will turn and crochet down the other side of the chain, through the back loops of the chain stitches. ) 1 sc in third ch from hook, 1 sc in next 26 chs, 4 sc in last ch ( Note: If you find that making 4 sc in the last chain loosens the chain, you could do 2 sc in the last chain, then pull tail end up towards you, then make 2 sc in the same ch. This will help tighten it up some.) Now you crochet up the back side of the chain 1 sc in each back of ch loops, 2 sc in last back of ch loop, ss to join to the starting ch (the loop before the first sc), ch 1, turn. RND 2 - 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 29 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 29 sc, 2 sc in last st, ss to join to first sc, ch 1, turn. (66 sc) RND 3 - 1 sc in each 66 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. RND 4 to 24 - Same as Row 3. RND 25 - (Flap) ss in first sc, ss in next sc then ch 1 and 1 sc in the same sc, 1 sc in next 30 sc, ch 1, turn. (31 sc) RND 26 - 1 sc in next 31 sc, ch 1, turn.

RND 27 to 42 - Same as Row 26. RND 43 - 1 sc in next 14 sc, ch 3, skip next 3 sc (this is for the button hole. If you are using a velcro strip instead of a button, do this row the same as Row 26.) 1 sc in next 14 sc, ch 1, turn. RND 44 - 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 11 sc, 1 sc in each of next 3 chs, 1 sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next sc, ch 1, turn. (29 sc) RND 45 - 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 23 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in last sc, fasten off. (27 sc) EDGING Fasten yarn at the bottom of falp where you began on Row 25. With wrong side of flap facing you, make 1 ss at each end of flap rows, 1 ss in each sc across the last row of the flap, 1 ss at end of each row of flap, 1 ss in each sc across the front of purse, ss to join to first ss, fasten off. STRAP Fasten yarn 2 sts back from where you ended the edging. Ch 130 (or to desired length), ss to join to the other side of purse in the 2nd ss from the flap (be careful not to get the chain twisted). Working on the right hand side of the chain, ch 1, 1 hdc in each ch to beg, ss in first ss from flap. Now you are going to join the hdc row on strap to the starting ch row of strap. 1 ss in each hdc and corresponding st on starting ch, ss to join in first ss from flap, fasten off. Sew button or a Velcro strip in place. (I crocheted a cover for the button I used.) 2001 Susan Norrad

Jewellery Bag

It's in the Bag. Fill this crocheted pouch with precious jewels, potpourri or whatever suits your fancy. Jewellery Bag Materials: 1 oz. acrylic sport-weight yarn & Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook Ch 4; join with a slip stitch (sl st) to form a ring. Rnd 1: Chain 1, 8 single crochet (sc) in ring; do not join, mark end of each round (rnd). Work in back loops only beginning with Rnd 2. Rnd 2: [2 Sc in next sc] 8 times -- 16 sc. Rnd 3: [2 Sc in next sc, sc in next sc] 8 times -- 24 sc. Rnd 4: [2 Sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc] 8 times -- 32 sc. Rnd 5: [2 Sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc] 8 times -- 40 sc. Rnds 6-15: Sc in each sc around. At end of Rnd 15, join with a sl st in both loops of next sc. Now work remaining rnds in both loops. Rnd 16: Ch 4, skip next sc, [dc in next sc, ch 1, skip next sc] 19 times; join with a sl st in 3rd ch of ch-4. Rnd 17: Ch 1, [2 sc in next ch-1 sp] 20 times; join to first sc. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Make 2 twisted cords starting with a 3-yard length of yarn for each. Weave each through ch-1 sps of Rnd 17 in opposite directions. Knot ends of cord together; trim ends.

Round zill Bag

The Quarter Bag Copyright to Judith Prindle 5/29/05 Materials: Small amount of worsted weight yarn. Size G crochet hook. Black yarn to make a smiley face or a cute button, charm, or whatever you like to decorate the bag. Finished size is about 2 & 3/4 inches wide by 2 & 3/4 inches tall. Working in rounds without joining: Chain 2 Round 1: 6 Single crochet in the second chain from hook. (6) Round 2: 2 Single crochet in each stitch. (12) Round 3: *1 Single crochet in 1 1st stitch, 2 single crochet in 2nd stitch, repeat from * around. (18) Round 4: *1 Single crochet in 1st 2 stitches, 2 single crochet in next stitch, repeat from * around. ( 24 ) Rounds 5 - 12: Single crochet in each stitch around, slip stitch in next stitch to join, chain 1. Round 13 : Single crochet in same stitch as chain 1, * chain 2, single crochet in next stitch, repeat from * ending chain 2, join with slip stitch in first single crochet. Pull ties(make 2): Chain 30, end. Thread the first tie through all the way around, and join it to itself. Thread second tie through starting on the opposite side of the bag that you began to thread the first tie through. Join this to to itself also. When the ties pulled on each side, at the same time the bag closes.

Spikes All Around purse or clutch

by Size: Materials: Worsted A: B: C: G Yarn Abbreviations: beg ch rev Rnd sc sl st yo 9 tall, 9

Sue high not including

Usiatynski handles

weight 2 1 1

yarn oz

in oz oz

colors (burgundy) (rose) (cream) hook needle

= = = = = st = = = yarn single slip

beginning chain reverse round crochet stitch stitch over

Special stitches: spike st: worked as a sc in row specified. Example: insert hook in next st one row below current row, yo, draw up loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook. spike st #: the number after spike st indicates which row below the current row to make the spike st in. spike st group: this is worked over 6 st. (sc, spike st 1, spike st 2, spike st 3, spike st 2, spike st 1) Pattern: With color A ch 28.

Rnd 1: 3sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 25 ch, 5sc in last ch, working on unused side of beg ch sc in next

25

ch,

2sc

in

last

ch,

join

with

sl

st

in

1st

sc.

(60

sc)

Rnd 2: ch 1, sc in joining, 2sc in next st, sc in next 27 sc, 2sc in next st, sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 27 st, 2sc in last st, join with sl st in 1st sc. (64 sc) Rnd 3: ch 1, sc in joining, 2sc in next st, sc in next 29 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 29 st, 2sc in last st, join with sl st in 1st sc. (68 sc) Rnd 4: ch 1, sc in joining, 2sc in next st, sc in next 31 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 31 st, 2sc in last st, join with sl st in 1st sc. (72 sc) Rnd 5: ch 1, sc in joining and next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 31 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 31 st, 2sc in next st, sc in last st, join with sl st in 1st sc. (76 sc)

Rnd 6: ch 1, 2sc in joining, sc in next 37 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 37 st, join with sl st in 1st sc. (78 sc) Rnd 7-10: Change ch 1, to sc in color joining B and around, join at the with sl end st in of 1st sc. (78 Rnd sc) 10

Rnd 11: With color B, ch 1, sc in joining and next st, (spike st group) 6 times, sc in next 3 st, (spike st group) 6 times, sc in last st, join with sl st in 1st sc. (12 spike st groups, 6 sc) Rnd 12-15: Change Rnd Rnd Change Rnd Rnd Change ch to 16: 17-20: to 21: 22-25: to 1, sc in color joining C repeat repeat A repeat repeat B and around, join at the 11 12-15 the 11 12-15 the with sl end with with end with with end st in of 1st sc. (78 Rnd sc) 15 C. C. 20 A. A 25

color color Rnd color color Rnd

color

at

of

color

at

of

For clutch version skip to Rnd 41, but do NOT make color change at end of Rnd 25. The handles are done with color A.

Rnd

26-40:

repeat

11-25

three

more

times

doing

color

changes

as

before.

Rnd 41: ch 1, sc in joining and next 11, ch 25 being careful not to twist ch, skip next 18 st, sc in next 21 st, ch 25 being careful not to twist ch, skip next 18 st, sc in next 9 st, join with sl st in 1st sc. (42 sc, 50 ch) Rnd 42: ch 1, sc in joining and next 11, sc in each of the 25 ch, sc in next 21 st, sc in each of the 25 ch, sc in next 9 st, join with sl st in 1st sc. (92 sc) Rnd 43: ch 1, sc in joining and around, join with sl st in 1st sc. (92 sc)

Rnd 44: ch 1, rev sc around, finish off and weave in all ends.

Pretty Tissue Holder

Design by Agnes Russell Tuck a packet of tissues inside this lovely tissue holder specially sized for your purse!

Experience Level Beginner Size 2 3/4" x 4 3/4" Materials

Crochet cotton size 5: 1 (50g) ball ecru Crochet cotton size 20: 20 yds each coral, spruce, orchid and dusty rose Sizes 8 and 11 steel crochet hooks 15-tissue pocket pack 2 size 4/0 snap fasteners Clear 6mm bead 9 silver 3mm beads Ecru sewing thread and needle Tapestry needle

Gauge 7 sts = 1" with size 8 steel crochet hook; 3 patt rows = 1/2 To save time, take time to check gauge. Pattern Note Weave in loose ends as work progresses. Body Row 1: With steel crochet hook size 8 and ecru, ch 33, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each rem ch across, ch 1, turn. (32) Row 2: Sc in first sc, dc in next sc, [sc in next sc, dc in next sc] rep across, ch 1, turn. Row 3: [Sc in next dc, dc in next sc] rep across, ch 1, turn. Rows 4-9: Rep Row 3. Row 10: [Sc in next dc, dc in next sc] 3 times, ch 19, sk 19 sts, dc in next sc, [sc in next dc, dc in next sc] 3 times, ch 1, turn. Row 11: Sc in dc, [dc in next sc, sc in next dc] 3 times, [dc in next ch, sc in next ch] 9 times, dc in next ch, [sc in next dc, dc in next sc] 3 times, ch 1, turn. Rows 12-19: Rep Row 3. At the end of Row 19, fasten off, turn. Row 20: With ecru, ch 6, [sc in next dc, dc in next sc] 16 times, ch 7, turn. Row 21: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, [dc in next ch, sc in next ch] 2 times, dc in next ch, [sc in next dc, dc in

next sc] 16 times, [sc in next ch, dc in next ch] 3 times, ch 1, turn. (44) Rows 22-32: Rep Row 3. Row 33: SI st in next 6 sts,(sl st, ch 1 and sc) in next dc, dc in next sc, [sc in next dc, dc in next sc] 15 times, leaving rem 6 sts unworked, ch 1, turn. (32) Rows 34- 42: Rep Row 3. Row 43: Sc in next dc, [dc in next sc, sc in next dc] 14 times, draw up a Ip in next sc, sk next dc, draw up a Ip in next sc, yo, draw through 2 Ips on hook, yo, draw through 2 Ips on hook, ch 1, turn. (30) Row 44: Sc in next dc, [dc in next sc, sc in next dc] rep across to within last 3 sts, draw up a lp in next sc, sk next dc, draw up a Ip in next sc, yo, draw through 2 Ips on hook, yo, draw through 2 Ips on hook, ch 1, turn. (28) Rows 45- 51: Rep Row 44. (14) Row 52: Sc in next dc, [dc in next sc, sc in next dc] 3 times, ch 8, sl st in top of last sc (button loop), [dc in next sc, sc in next dc] 3 times, ending with sc in last st, fasten off. With tapestry needle and length of ecru, sew side edge of Rows 1-19 to side edge of Rows 20-32. Rep on opposite edge. With sewing needle and thread, sew snap fasteners to Row 1 and Row 33 evenly sp across. Trim With RS facing and with steel crochet hook size 8, attach ecru with a sl st in side edge of Row 33, working evenly sp down side edge to within button loop work [5 dc, sl st] 7 times evenly sp across edge, work 16 sc over ch-8 button loop, sl st in next st, [5 dc, sl st] 7 times evenly sp across opposite edge ending in side edge of Row 33, fasten off. Insert tissue pack and snap the fasteners. Button Rnd 1: With steel crochet hook size 8 and ecru, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join in beg sc. (6) Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in same sc as beg ch-1, sc in next sc, [2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] rep around, join in beg sc. (9) Rnd 3: Ch I , sc in each sc around, join in beg sc, leaving a length of cotton, fasten off. With tapestry needle, thread rem length of cotton and weave through sc sts of Rnd 3, place 6mm bead in center of crocheted piece, pull woven length gently to close opening, knot to secure, do not fasten off. Fold flap closed to find placement of button. Sew button to tissue cover. Flowers (Make 9) Note: Make 3 flowers each of coral, orchid and dusty rose crochet cotton. Rnd 1: With steel crochet hook size 11 and crochet cotton, ch 5, join to form a ring, ch 1, sc in ring, [ch 2, 2 dc in ring, ch 2, sc in ring] 5 times, fasten off. Leaves (Make 5) Row 1: With steel crochet hook size 11 and spruce crochet cotton, ch 8, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch, sc in next ch, dc in each of next 3 chs, sc in last ch, fasten off. Sew leaves and flowers to front flap of tissue holder using photo as a guide or as desired. Sew a 3mm bead to the center of each flower. 1996 101 Fun-to-Crochet Projects, published by House of White Birches. All rights reserved.

Little Ornament Style Gift Bags

Little Ornament Style Gift Bags Copyright to Judith Prindle 12/01/05 Gauge; Not important but this are the sizes my bags are: worsted....squished flat about 3&1/2" wide by 3" tall sport..slightly smaller thread...1&1/2" wide by just over 1" tall Supplies worsted & sport weight yarn use a F hook Bedspread weight thread use a size 8 steel hook beads or jingle bells (optional) 1/8 - 1/4 inch ribbon for tie or crochet a tie working in rounds without joining through out; Round 1; chain2, songle crochet in secon chain from hook 4 times. (4 single crochet) Mark the beginning of your rounds now if you wish. Round 2; 2 single crochet in each stitch of previous round ( (8 single crochet) Round 3; 2 single crochet in each stitch . (16 single crochet) Round 4 ;1 single crochet in each stitch. (16 single crochet) Round 5; *2 single crochet in stitch, 1 single crochet in next stitch, repeat from * around. ( 24 single crochet) Round 6; 1 single crochet in each stitch. (24 single crochet) Round 7; *1 single crochet in 3 stitches, 2 single crochet in next stitch, repeat from * around. (30 single crochet) Rouns 8-12; 1 single crochet in each stitch. (30 single crochet) Round 13;* single crochet 2 together, 1 single crochet in next 3 stitches. Repeat from * around.

(24 single crochet) Round 14; 1 single crochet in each stitch. (24single crochet) Round 15; Slip stitch in next stitch to join, chain 3, skip 1 single crochet, half double crochet in next stitch, chain 1, skip next stitch, * half double crochet in next stitch, chain 1, skip next stitch, Repeat from * around ending with a slip stitch in the second chain of the beginning chain 3. (Counting beginning chain 3 as a half double and chain 1: 12 chain1 spaces & 12 half double crochet.) This forms the eyelet round to thread your ribbon through and tie. Round 16; Slip stitch into chain 1 space, chain 3 slip stitch intonext chain 1 space around. End off and hide ends. If you wish decorate the bottom of your bag with beads or bells or whatever you want. Thread the tie through and you are done. The smallest bag could be used for jewelry or little candies.

Granny square purse

Crochet eight granny squares in your favorite yarn colors to create a cute little granny square purse. This granny square crochet pattern is a great way to use different yarn colors.

Materials: Yarn: Lily Sugar n Cream (Solids: 70.9 g /2.5 oz / Ombres and Prints: 56.7 g/2 oz) 3 Color Version 2 balls each of Main Color (MC), and 1 ball each of Contrast A and Contrast B Version 1: MC (Sage Green 84), A (Country Sage 2233), B (Natural Ombre 228). Version 2: MC (Buttercream Ombre 222), A (Cream 03), B (Soft Ecru 1004). Version 3: MC (Rose Pink 46), A (Yellow 10), B (Spring Meadows 173). Version 4: MC (Cornflower Blue 83), A (White 01), B (Cool Breeze Ombre 227). Version 5: MC (Cornflower Blue 83), A (Yellow 10), B (Violet Veil 223). 2 Color Version 2 balls each of Main Color (MC) and 1 ball Contrast A. Version 6: MC (Faded Denim 181), A (Denim Blue 192). Version 7: MC (Rose Pink 46), A (Strawberry 144). or Lily Sugar n Cream Super Size (Solids: 113 g/ 4 oz / Ombres and Prints 85 g/3 oz) 3 Color Version 1 ball of MC, Contrast A and Contrast B. 2 Color Version 1 ball of MC and Contrast A. Crochet Hook: Size 4.50 mm (U.S. 7) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge. Size: Approx 9 ins [23 cm] square Gauge: One Motif = 3 ins [9 cm] square. Instructions: 3 Color Version Motif (make 8) With B, ch 5. Join with sl st to first ch to form a ring. 1st rnd: Ch 3 (counts as dc). 2 dc in ring. (Ch 2. 3 dc in ring) 3 times. Ch 2. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. Fasten off. 2nd rnd: Join MC with sl st to any ch-2 sp. Ch 3. (2 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in same sp. [Ch 1. (3 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in next corner ch-2 sp] 3 times. Ch 1. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. Fasten off. 3rd rnd: Join A with sl st to any ch-2 sp. Ch 3. (2 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in same sp. [Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch-1 sp. Ch 1. (3 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp] 3 times. Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch-1 sp. Ch 1. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. Fasten off. 2 Color Version Motif (make 8) Work as given for Motif of 3 Color Version substituting A for B.

Both Versions: Sew 4 motifs tog for Front and Back. Edging: Join MC with sl st to any corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3. 4 dc in same sp. *(1 dc in each of next 3 dc. 1 dc in next ch-1 sp) twice. 1 dc in each of next 3 dc. 1 dc in sp between 2 Motifs. (1 dc in each of next 3 dc. 1 dc in next ch-1 sp) twice. 1 dc in each of next 3 dc.** 5 dc in next corner ch-2 sp. Rep from * twice more, then from * to ** once. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. Fasten off. Place WS of Back and Front tog. Join MC at top left corner and work 1 row of sc around opposite corner to join 3 sides of Bag. Top Edging: With RS of work facing, join MC at seam and work 1 rnd of sc around top of Bag. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. Handles (make 2) With MC, ch 49. 1st row: (RS). 1 dc in 4th ch from hook. 1 dc in each ch to end of ch. 47 dc. Turn. 2nd row: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). 1 dc in each dc to end of row. Turn. 3rd row: As 2nd row. Do not turn. Fold Handle in half length-wise. Work 1 row of sc through rem loop of foundation ch and corresponding st of last row to join edges tog. Fasten off. Sew on Handles as shown in picture.

E-reader case (6 inch)

Materials: Red heart super saver or any yarn you choose in 2 colors if desired. Size H hook Special StitchDC dec- double crochet decrease Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, draw through the stitch, 3 loops left on hook, yarn over, draw through the first 2 loops on the hook, 2 loops left on hook, yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, draw through the stitch, 4 loops left on hook, yarn over, draw through first 2 loops on hook, 3 loops left on hook, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops Round 1: with main color, ch 19, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across, working into remaining loops on opposite side of ch, sc in each ch across, place marker in last sc. 36 sc Round 2-? : sc in each sc around until it comes to just below the top of the e-reader. Slip stitch in next stitch. 36 sc in each round. Then I changed to contrasting color to start the flap. Flap Row 1: ch 1, turn, sc in next 18 sc: 18 sc Row 2: ch 2, turn, dc in each sc across: 18 dc Row 3: ch 2, turn, dc in each dc across: 18 dc Row 4-9: dc dec in the first 2 dc, dc to the last 2 dc, dc dec in the last 2 dc, ch2, turn. Row 10- dc dec in the first 2 dc, skip 2 dc, dc dec in the last 2 dc. Finish off and weave in ends. Button You can use a store bought button or make this one: Round 1: ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook: 6 sc Round 2 3: 6 sc in same ch (overlapping previous round): 6 sc Finish off. Align button with button hole and sew on.

DMC crochet pda case

ORGANIZE YOUR DAY...with DMC's NEW PDA Storage Case. An ideal gift for friends and always perfect for yourself. Materials: Approximate Size of DMC Crochet Throw upon completion: 3-1/2" wide x 4-3/4" high x 3/4" deep *DMC Baroque Crochet Cotton (Art. 159) *1 ball Ecru (MC) and 1 ball 800 Sky Blue (CC) or choose from any of the Baroque colors. *Size 8 (1.25mm) crochet hook *Approximately 20 small straight pins Stitch Gauge 10 sts and 6 pattern rows = approximately 1" Abbreviations beg = Beginning ch = Chain dc = Double Crochet dtr = Double Treble lp(s) = Loops rem = Remaining rep = Repeat sc = Single Crochet sl st = Slip Stitch sk = Skip sp = Space st(s) = Stitch(es) yo = Yarn Over 5dc-pc = 5-dc Popcorn MC = Main Color CC = Contrasting Color Instructions Body of Case: Foundation Row: With MC, ch 36, turn. Begin in 2nd lp from hook, work sc in back lp of each ch. Turn. (35 sts) Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as first st), * 5dc-pc in second st, dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st of row below, dc in next st. Repeat from * until last 2 sts, sk next st, work 5dc-pc, dc in last st of row below. Turn. ( 35 sts). Row 2: Ch 1; work 35 sc across row, ending with a sc in top of turning ch of row below. Turn. Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as first st and ch-1 sp). Skip next st, * dc, 5dcpc, dc into next 3 sts of row below, ch 1, sk next st. Rep from * to end of row, ending with dc in last st of row below. Turn. Row 4: Rep Row 2, ending with 2 sc in top of turning ch of row below. Rows 5-62: Rep Rows 1 to 4 ending with a Row 2. Note: Mark Rows 31 and 32 for gusset. Fasten off. Do not turn. Flap: Row 1: For turning row of flap, attach CC to beg of Row 2 just completed. Working in front lps only, work 35 sc across row . Rows 2 and 3: Work Rows 1 and 2 of pattern. (35 stitches) Flap Decrease Rows:

Row 4: To dec 2 sts at end of row, work pattern Row 3 until 3 sts rem, yo, pull a lp through next st of row below, yo, pull a lp through first 2 lps on hook, skip next st, yo twice, pull a lp through last st of row, (yo, pull a lp through first 2 lps on hook) twice, yo, pull a lp through 3 rem lps on hook. Turn. (31 sts.) Row 5: Ch 1, work sc across row. Note: To dec 2 sts at beg of each row, do not work turning ch. Rows 6-27: Rep rows 4 and 5. Turn. (3 sts) Button Loop: Ch 4, skip next st, and dtr in last st. Fasten off. First Gusset: With wrong side facing, attach CC to base of Row 31 on one side of body. Work 3 sc evenly spaced across side edge, ending with last st in base of Row 32. Turn. Gusset Row 1: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch-1 sp), dc in last sc of row below. Turn. Gusset Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st of row below (working one sc into dc and 2 sc into turning ch of row below). Turn. Gusset Row 3: Ch 3, 5dc-pc into next st, dc into last st. Turn. Gusset Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each st of row below (working sc into dc, 5dc-pc, and turning ch of row below). Gusset Rows 5-34: Repeat Rows 1-4, ending with Row 2. Fasten off Second Gusset: With wrong side facing, attach CC to base of Row 31 on other side of body. Work 3 sc evenly spaced across side edge, ending with last st in base of Row 32. Turn. Gusset Rows 1-34: Work same as First Gusset. Finishing: Fold front of body so beg edge matches bottom of flap, and pin sides of gussets to front and back body edges. Attach MC to lower-right corner of back. Holding body and gusset edges together, join side edges by working sc evenly spaced through both layers, being careful to match exactly corresponding rows. At top of first gusset, continue working evenly spaced sc along side of single layer of flap, 10 to 12 sc around button lp, and continue sc up second side of flap. Continue joining gusset to left-back panel, 3 sc across bottom edge of gusset, up left front side (continuing to join front and gusset edges), across front edge (bottom of foundation row), down right front side (continuing to join front and gusset edges), ending with 3 sc across the bottom edge of second gusset. Join edging row with a sl st in first sc, ch 1, do not turn. Work a second row of sc into sc of row just completed, ending with a sl st in first sc. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Button: With CC, leaving 8 tail, make a slip knot, ch 5, and join with sl st to form ring; ch 3, 23 dc into ring, working sts over tail. Join with sl st in first dc. Ch 1, * yo and pull a lp through next 2 sts, yo, pull lp through all 3 lps on hook; repeat from * until all sts have been worked. Fasten off, leaving 6" tail. Thread tail into tapestry needle, and baste together the sts remaining on last row; simultaneously, tightly pull beg tail to close the beg ring, stuff remaining beg tail into center of button. Fold flap over, mark button position on front side. Leaving thread on needle, use remaining end to sew button to front just under button loop. Fasten off. Weave in thread ends.

Beaded Crochet Cell Phone Holder

Enjoy this free crochet pattern for a beaded cell phone holder. The cell phone holder is sized for the Apple Iphone 3GS or other similar smartphones. You could also use it to hold other types of gadgets if you prefer. Supplies Needed: Crochet Thread: 1 ball of size 3 mercerized cotton crochet thread; I used about 24 grams of Royale Fashion crochet thread to make the sample cell phone holder. Feel free to use any similar crochet thread. Beads: There are 256 6/0 seed beads in the sample cell phone holder. Yours may require more beads, or fewer, depending on how you crochet. Crochet Hook: Size E / 4 - 3.5 mm, or size needed to obtain gauge Closure: You'll need a length of ribbon, braid, cord or similar material to create the drawstring for the cell phone holder. If you use ribbon, you might also want to treat the cut edges with Fray Check. Needles: You'll need needles for stringing your beads onto your crochet thread, stitching your cell phone holder together, and weaving in ends. Gauge Working in beaded pattern, 6 sts = approximately 1"; row gauge is not critical for success with this project. Finished Size: My finished cell phone holder measures 7.25 x 3.25 Abbreviations Used in This Pattern: dc = double crochet (maglia alta) ch = chain (catenella) sc = single crochet (maglia bassa) sl st = slip stitch (mezza maglia bassa) st = stitch V-Stitch: Dc, ch 1, dc, all worked in the same stitch. Design Notes: Youll work the cell phone holder in two piecesthe back and the front. Then you stitch the two pieces together. Next, you crochet the casing for the drawstring; this is worked in rounds around the top of the piece. The edging, which is also worked around the top, is the finishing touch. Beadwork Pattern for Body of Cell Phone Holder: String your beads onto your crochet thread. Ch 17 loosely. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st across. (16 sc) Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc, [slide a bead close to the last stitch made, 2 sc.] Repeat the instructions in brackets 6 more times across the row. Slide bead, sc. (At the end of the row, youll have 16 sc and 8 beads total.) Row 3: Ch 1, turn, work 16 sc sts across the row. Row 4: Ch 1, turn, [2 sc, slide a bead close to the last stitch made.] Repeat the instructions in brackets all the way across the row. (16 sc and 7 beads total) Row 5: Sc all the way across the row.

Rows 2-5 rows form the pattern repeat. Repeat rows 2-5 as many times as needed until the piece is long enough to accommodate your cell phone. I worked 35 rows for my sample. Your number of rows may vary. Outside Round: This is a partial round; you'll work around 3 of the 4 sides of your piece. Ch 1, work 35 evenly spaced sc down the side of the piece. Ch 2 for corner, then work 16 evenly spaced sc across starting chain. Ch 2 for corner, work 3 evenly spaced sc up the other side of the piece. End off. Weave in all ends. Note that it is much easier to weave in the ends before you join the pieces, so be sure not to leave them all until the end. Make two identical pieces using the above instructions. Joining the Two Pieces of the Cell Phone Holder: Join the two pieces using whichever method you prefer; you can either sew them or crochet them together. My sample project was joined using a slip stitch down one side, across the bottom, and up the other side. You could seam the pieces using whipstitch if you prefer. Crocheting the Casing for the Drawstring, and the Edging: Work this part in rounds around the top of the piece. Join thread in upper right hand corner. Round 1A: Ch 3, (counts as first dc,) work 1 dc in each st all the way around. When you get to the side seams, you can either skip them, or work two stitches into each seam, depending on how bulky your seams ended up being. If you have really bulky seams, skipping over them would leave a big gap; in that case, you want to go ahead and work those extra stitches into each seam. You dont want to have big gaps in your casing. The seams on my sample project are quite bulky, so I worked the extra stitches into each seam. Whichever way you decide to do it, keep in mind that your total number of stitches needs to be evenly divisible by 4 to make the math on the edging work out correctly. When youve worked all the way around, join with a sl st to the first dc in the round. End off; weave in ends. Round 1B: Work into the same round to make an upper layer, but this time around, work into the front loops of the sts. Join thread at top right hand side in front loop of the same round; ch 3 (counts as first dc st.) Work 6 more dcs. Ch 3 and skip next 3 front loops; this forms the opening for the drawstring. Continue working dcs into front loops all the way around. Sl st to join to the first dc. Position the ribbon or drawstring in between the two rounds of dc sts. Feed the ends out through the hole formed by the ch-3 space. Round 2: Work through both loops of both layers of the casing made in rounds 1A and 1B. Ch 1, work sc all the way around, keeping the drawstring sandwiched in between the layers of the casing. Join with a sl st. Round 3: Ch 1, sc all the way around, sl st to join. Round 4: Ch 4 (1st 3 chs count as 1 dc st,) dc into same st to complete a V-Stitch, [ch 1, skip next 3 sts, work a V-Stitch in next st.] Repeat sequence in brackets all the way around. sl st to join to 3rd ch st crocheted at the beginning of the round. Round 5: [Work 5 sc in next V-Stitch, sl st in next ch.] Repeat sequence in brackets all the way around. Join the end of the round to the beginning of the round with a sl st. Round 6: Ch 1, In each grouping of 5 sc, work the sequence in brackets: ([2 sc, ch 3, skip next sc, 2 sc.] Then sl st in next sl st.) Repeat sequence in parentheses all the way around. Sl st to join to beginning of the round. End off. Weave in all ends. Blocking (or Not Blocking) the Beaded Cell Phone Holder I didn't bother with blocking my finished cell phone holder; it didn't need it. While I was crocheting it, the pieces did distort a bit. If your pieces bias or distort an alarming amount, you might wish to block them before you join them; that could make it easier to stitch them together. Hopefully you won't need to do that though. My pieces evened out just fine when I joined them. Don't block this project unless you used beads that can get wet. Some metal beads might rust, and some cheaper beads might lose their coating if you wet them. When in doubt, test a single unworked bead to see what will happen if you wet it.

You can now place your cell phone inside the cell phone holder, or give it as a gift. Enjoy!

Cell Phone Bag With Openwork Center Design

Pattern Created by Sandi Marshall

Printing: Many newer printers will print fine from this page or you can use the Printer-Friendly Page. If only the ad at the top of the page prints, try this: before choosing the Print command, click on the pattern portion of the page (tells your printer what part of the page you want to print), then choose Print. Use Print Preview (click on File, then Print Preview at the top of your Internet browser) if you want to see ahead of time what will print. I gave this little cell phone bag an openwork design on the front of the bag, using the updown stitch and openwork combination of stitches that I had created for my Updown and Open Path Afghan Square pattern. Materials Used In The Example: About 1 oz. worsted weight yarn, US size H hook Finished Size: About 5 inches wide x 5 1/2 inches tall (not counting strap). Piece is 4 1/2 inches wide (on single crochet rows of the back) before the outside joining row is added. The example on the left shows how the piece looks before it is folded to form the bag shape. In this example, I used Caron Simply Soft Shadows yarn, color 0002 Plum Mist (a self-striping yarn with subtle color changes). In the lighter color example shown in the photos at the top of the page, I used color 0001 Pearl Frost, Caron Simply Soft Shadows yarn.

Gauge: 4 sc rows = 1 inch, 6 1/2 sc = 2 inches Abbreviations: ch = chain, dc = double crochet, ea = each, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch How To Slip Stitch (sl st) = Insert hook in stitch, wrap yarn over hook, pull yarn through the stitch and through the loop on the hook, at the same time. How to Crochet in Back Loop Only:

How to Skip a Stitch:

How to single crochet decrease (single crochet two stitches together: When your pattern says to sc next 2 sts tog (single crochet next two stitches together) or if it says to dec over 2 sc (decrease over two single crochet) or slight variations of these instructions, this is how to do it:

Draw up a loop in next stitch.

Image copyright Sandi Marshall

Again, draw up a loop in the next stitch. (There should now be 3 loops on the hook.) Image copyright S Marshall

Yarn over hook. Image copyright S Marshall

Draw yarn through all 3 loops on the hook. (One decrease made) Image copyright S Marshall Pattern Directions Starting Chain: chain 15. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in ea ch across. (14 sc) Rows 2 - 20: ch 1 to turn, sc in ea sc across (14 sc) Row 21: ch 1 to turn, sc in back loop only of ea sc across. (14 sc) This row is worked in the back loops so that the piece will fold easily at this row, when it is time to fold the piece in half to form the bag. Row 22: ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next sc, sc in next sc, dc in next sc, ch 1, skip next 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in next sc, ch 1, skip next 2 sc, dc in next sc, sc in next sc, dc in ea of next 2 sc. Row 23: ch 3 (counts as first dc), sc in next dc, dc in next sc, sc in back loop only of next dc, sc in back loop only of next ch, sc in back loop only of next dc, sc in back loop only of next 2 chains, sc in back loop only of next dc, sc in back loop only of next ch, sc in back loop only of next dc, dc in next sc, sc in next dc, dc in 3rd ch of ch-3 at end of row. Row 24: ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next sc, sc in next dc, dc in next sc, ch 1, skip next 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in next sc, ch 1, skip next 2 sc, dc in next sc, sc in next dc, dc in next sc, dc in 3rd ch of ch-3 at end of row. Rows 25 - 30: Repeat rows 23 and 24. Row 31: Repeat row 23. Row 32: ch 1 to turn, sc in both loops of each stitch across the row. (14 sc) End off. Weave in ends. Joining and Strap: Fold piece in half with the wrong sides together. Attach the yarn in the edge of the first row (at the fold) on the right-hand side bottom edge of the piece. To join the two pieces, you will work through both thicknesses along the side of the piece, working a single crochet around both the front edge stitch and the corresponding back edge stitch at the same time. Because the front is double crochet and the back is single crochet, work two sc around each double crochet post while working only one single crochet in each single crochet on the back. How to sc around dc post along an edge: http://crochet.about.com/library/blscdpost.htm When you have worked in sc all the way along the edge in this manner, begin the strap. The Strap: chain 125 for a shoulder bag length strap, as shown in the example. Adjust the number of chains for a shorter or longer strap, if desired. Other Side: When you have made the number of chains that you want for the strap, continue with the joining of the other side of the piece in the same manner as the first side, of single crochet worked through both thicknesses (this time starting at the top edge of the bag and working along that side until you reach the bottom edge). Slip Stitch Along Edge and Strap: ch 1, turn, slip stitch in both loops of each sc along the side. When you reach the strap chain, slip stitch in one loop of each chain. When you reach the next side edge, slip stitch in both loops of

each sc along that side. End off. Weave in ends. Optional Top Flap: You can leave the top of the bag open, if you prefer it that way. If you wish to add a top flap, with a button closure, hold the bag with the back of the bag facing you and attach yarn in the first edge stitch on the right-hand side of the bag back. Top Flap Row 1: ch 1, sc in ea stitch across. (14 sc) Top Flap Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in front loop only of ea sc across. (14 sc) Working in the front loops helps the flap to fold easily at this row. Top Flap Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc decrease over first two sc, sc in ea sc across until only two sc remain, then sc decrease over last two sc. (12 sc) How to sc decrease Top Flap Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc decrease over first two sc, sc in ea sc across until only two sc remain, then sc decrease over last two sc. (10 sc) Top Flap Row 5: ch 1, turn, sc decrease over first two sc, sc in ea sc across until only two sc remain, then sc decrease over last two sc. (8 sc) Top Flap Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc decrease over first two sc, sc in next sc, ch 7, skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc, sc decrease over last two sc. End off. Weave in ends. Add Button or Bead: Sew a button or cylinder bead in place to line up with the spot where the buttonhole is when the flap is folded forward to close the bag. In the example, I used a 1 inch wide rectangle-shape button. A slightly larger button would work also. I used a 1 inch round button on the Pearl Frost example. Untraditional Closure: For the Plum color bag shown at the top of this page, I created a different kind of closure. I wanted to come up with a cell phone bag closure that would open very easily, even when using only one hand to open the bag. Free instructions for this closure can be printed from: http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa081706.htm

Scallop Edging For Small Bags

This scallop design edging is sized for adding to small bags, with the example shown on a crocheted cell phone bag. The edging is worked over an area of 16 stitches. In the example shown, I crocheted it along the bottom edge of my Open Path Cell Phone Bag design. Materials Used In The Example: Small amount worsted weight yarn, US size H hook Finished Size of Edging: About 5 1/2 inches wide, at widest point x 1 3/4 inches tall Abbreviations: ch = chain, dc = double crochet, ea = each, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, sp = space How To Slip Stitch (sl st) = Insert hook in stitch, wrap yarn over hook, pull yarn through the stitch and through the loop on the hook, at the same time.

How to Crochet In A Chain Space:

How to Skip a Stitch:

In this example, I used Caron Simply Soft Shadows yarn, color 0002 Plum Mist (a self-striping yarn with subtle color changes). Pattern Directions To begin: Attach yarn in the first stitch on the bottom edge of the bag. Row 1: Holding the bag upside down, work along the bottom edge of the bag. (ch 3, skip next stitch, sc in next stitch) 8 times. Row 2: Turn, sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, (dc, ch 1) 5 times all in next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch 1) 5 times all in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, sl st in last ch-3 sp. Row 3: ch 1, turn. sl st in first ch-1 sp (right before the first dc), (ch 3, skip next dc, sl st in next ch-1 sp) 5 times, skip next sc, sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, skip next dc, sl st in next dc, ch 3, skip next dc, sl st in next ch1 sp, ch 3, skip next dc, sl st in next dc, ch 3, skip next dc, sl st in next ch-1 sp, skip next sc, skip next dc, sl st in next ch-1 sp, (ch 3, skip next dc, sl st in next ch-1 sp) 5 times. End off. Weave in ends.

Crochet cell phone case

Skill Level: Intermediate Materials DMC Baroque Crochet Cotton (Art. 159) - 1 ball Ecru (MC) and 1 ball 800 Sky Blue (CC) or choose from any of the Baroque colors. Approximately 20 small straight pins Crochet Hook Size 8 (1.25mm) Finished Size 3-1/2" wide x 4-3/4" high x 3/4" deep Gauge 10 sts and 6 pattern rows = approximately 1" Instructions Body of Case: Foundation Row: With MC, ch 36, turn. Begin in 2nd lp from hook, work sc in back lp of each ch. Turn. (35 sts) Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as first st), * 5dc-pc in second st, dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st of row below, dc in next st. Repeat from * until last 2 sts, sk next st, work 5dc-pc, dc in last st of row below. Turn. ( 35 sts). Row 2: Ch 1; work 35 sc across row, ending with a sc in top of turning ch of row below. Turn. Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as first st and ch-1 sp). Skip next st, * dc, 5dc-pc, dc into next 3 sts of row below, ch 1, sk next st. Rep from * to end of row, ending with dc in last st of row below. Turn. Row 4: Rep Row 2, ending with 2 sc in top of turning ch of row below. Rows 5-62: Rep Rows 1 to 4 ending with a Row 2. Note: Mark Rows 31 and 32 for gusset. Fasten off. Do not turn. Flap: Row 1: For turning row of flap, attach CC to beg of Row 2 just completed. Working in front lps only, work 35 sc across row . Rows 2 and 3: Work Rows 1 and 2 of pattern. (35 stitches) Flap Decrease Rows: Row 4: To dec 2 sts at end of row, work pattern Row 3 until 3 sts rem, yo, pull a lp through next st of row below, yo, pull a lp through first 2 lps on hook, skip next st, yo twice, pull a lp through last st of row, (yo, pull a lp through first 2 lps on hook) twice, yo, pull a lp through 3 rem lps on hook. Turn. (31 sts.) Row 5: Ch 1, work sc across row. Note: To dec 2 sts at beg of each row, do not work turning ch. Rows 6-27: Rep rows 4 and 5. Turn. (3 sts) Button Loop: Ch 4, skip next st, and dtr in last st. Fasten off. First Gusset: With wrong side facing, attach CC to base of Row 31 on one side of body. Work 3 sc evenly spaced across side edge, ending with last st in base of Row 32. Turn. Gusset Row 1: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch-1 sp), dc in last sc of row below. Turn. Gusset Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st of row below (working one sc into dc and 2 sc into turning ch of row below). Turn. Gusset Row 3: Ch 3, 5dc-pc into next st, dc into last st. Turn. Gusset Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each st of row below (working sc into dc, 5dc-pc, and turning ch of row below). Gusset Rows 5-34: Repeat Rows 1-4, ending with Row 2. Fasten off . Second Gusset: With wrong side facing, attach CC to base of Row 31 on other side of body. Work 3 sc evenly spaced across side edge, ending with last st in base of Row 32. Turn. Gusset Rows 1-34: Work same as First Gusset. Finishing:

Fold front of body so beg edge matches bottom of flap, and pin sides of gussets to front and back body edges. Attach MC to lower-right corner of back. Holding body and gusset edges together, join side edges by working sc evenly spaced through both layers, being careful to match exactly corresponding rows. At top of first gusset, continue working evenly spaced sc along side of single layer of flap, 10 to 12 sc around button lp, and continue sc up second side of flap. Continue joining gusset to left-back panel, 3 sc across bottom edge of gusset, up left front side (continuing to join front and gusset edges), across front edge (bottom of foundation row), down right front side (continuing to join front and gusset edges), ending with 3 sc across the bottom edge of second gusset. Join edging row with a sl st in first sc, ch 1, do not turn. Work a second row of sc into sc of row just completed, ending with a sl st in first sc. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Button: With CC, leaving 8 tail, make a slip knot, ch 5, and join with sl st to form ring; ch 3, 23 dc into ring, working sts over tail. Join with sl st in first dc. Ch 1, * yo and pull a lp through next 2 sts, yo, pull lp through all 3 lps on hook; repeat from * until all sts have been worked. Fasten off, leaving 6" tail. Thread tail into tapestry needle, and baste together the sts remaining on last row; simultaneously, tightly pull beg tail to close the beg ring, stuff remaining beg tail into center of button. Fold flap over, mark button position on front side. Leaving thread on needle, use remaining end to sew button to front just under button loop. Fasten off. Weave in thread ends. Abbreviations beg = Beginning ch = Chain dc = Double Crochet dtr = Double Treble lp(s) = Loops rem = Remaining rep = Repeat sc = Single Crochet sl st = Slip Stitch sk = Skip sp = Space st(s) = Stitch(es) yo = Yarn Over 5dc-pc = 5-dc Popcorn MC = Main Color CC = Contrasting Color

Miniature purse
This miniature crochet purse is great for storing small items, such as jewelry or makeup. Crochet this intermediate crochet pattern to make a comfortable purselet for a night out on the town.

Materials: Yarn: Caron International's Simply Soft Brites (100% acrylic; 6 oz/170 g, 315 yds/288 m skein): 1 skein Shown in: #9605 Mango Hook: One size US H/8 (5 mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge desired Note: Satchel may be made larger or smaller by changing hook size. Yarn Needle Pompon maker or piece or cardboard Row counter (optional) Size: approximately 3" in circumference by 4" high, excluding cord tie and Pompon Gauge: Gauge is not critical for this project. In single crochet, 18 sts and 24 rows = 4"/10 cm Abbreviations: Inc (increase): Work 2 sc in st indicated. Stitches: Chain (ch): Begin by making a slip knot on your hook. * Wrap the yarn around the hook (yarn over) and pull up a loop, [draw the yarn through the loop on the hook to form the first chain]. Repeat from * for number of chains required. Note: The loop on the hook is not included when counting the number of chains. Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over hook, insert hook into stitch indicated, yarn over and pull up a loop, [yarn over and draw through two loops on hook] twice. Half Double Crochet (hdc): Yarn over hook, insert hook into stitch indicated, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through all three loops on hook. Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in stitch indicated, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook.

Slip Stitch (slip st): Insert hook in the stitch indicated, yarn over and draw through both the stitch and the loop on the hook. Shell Stitch (multiple of 6 sts) Round 1: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, * skip 2 sts, work 5 dc in next st (Shell), skip 2 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * around to last 2 sts, end skip last 2 sts, join with a slip st in first sc. Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as dc), work 2 dc in same st as joining (half-Shell), * skip 2 sts, sc in next st (center st of Shell from previous round), skip 2 sts, work Shell in next sc; repeat from * around, end last repeat work half-shell (2 dc) in same st as beginning half shell, join with a slip st to beginning ch. Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 for Shell st. Instructions: BOTTOM Using 2 strands of yarn held together, chain 4; join with a slip st to form a ring. Round 1: Ch 1, work 12 sc in ring, join with a slip st to first st12 sc. Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, * inc in next st, sc in next st; repeat form * around to last st, inc in last st, join with a slip st in first st18 sc. Round 3: Increase 6 sts evenly around as follows:Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, * inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; repeat from * around to last 2 sts, inc in next st, sc in next st, join with a slip st in first st 24 sc. Rounds 4 7: Increase 6 sts evenly around; work as Round 3, working 1 more sc between increases each round48 sc. Round 8: Work even in sc. Fasten off 1 strand of yarn. Establish Pattern Use 1 strand only for the remainder of Satchel. Begin Shell st8 Shells after Round 1. Rounds 2 8: Work even in Shell st, repeating rounds 1 and 2. EYELETS Ch 2, * hdc in next st, ch 1, skip next st (eyelet), hdc in next st; repeat from * around, join with a slip st to beginning ch16 eyelets. UPPER EDGE Work Rounds 1 and 2 of Shell st, working sc and Shell(s) into Eyelets of previous round on Round 1. Fasten off. FINISHING Using yarn needle, weave in ends. Cord Ties (make 2) Chain 60. Row 1: Work slip st in each st across. Fasten off. Beginning at side edge, thread 1 cord through Eyelets on one-half of purse. Repeat for opposite side. Pompons Using Pompon maker or 1" piece of cardboard, make2 pompons each 1" in diameter. Join cord ends together with pompons. Tassel (optional) Make a tassel 5" long; attach to center bottom of satchel.

Rose make-up bag

Crochet a sweet little bag adorned with a rose to hold and transport your make-up. This crochet rose bag can also be used as a clutch on its own.

Materials: Yarn: Lily Sugar n Cream Ombres (56.7 g/2 oz) Main Color (MC) (Pink): 2 balls Lily Sugar n Cream (70.9 g/2.5 oz) Contrast A (Green): 1 ball Crochet hook: Size 4 mm (U.S. G or 6) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge. 7 ins [18 cm] zipper. Size: Approx 5 x 7 ins [13 x 19 cm]. Gauge: 14 sts and 15 rows = 4 ins [10 cm] in bobble st pat. Instructions: FRONT and BACK (make 2 alike) With MC, ch 28. 1st row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end of ch. 27 sc. Turn. 2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first sc. *1 tr in next sc (pushing tr to RS of work). 1 sc in next sc. Rep from * to end of row. Turn. 3rd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each st to end of row. Turn. Rep last 2 rows 8 times more. Fasten off. Gusset With MC, ch 4. 1st row: (WS). 2 dc in 4th ch from hook (counts as 3 dc). Turn. 2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each dc across. Turn. 3rd row: Ch 3. 1 dc in first sc. 1 dc in next sc. 2 dc in last sc. Turn. 4th row: As 2nd row. 5th row: Ch 3. 1 dc in first sc. 1 dc in each of next 3 sc. 2 dc in last sc. Turn. 7 dc. 6th row: As 2nd row. 7th row: Ch 3. Miss first sc. 1 dc in each sc to end of row. Turn. 8th to 11th rows: Rep 6th and 7th rows twice. 12th row: (RS-Fold row). Ch 1. Working in back loop only, 1 sc in each dc across. Turn. 13th row: As 7th row. 14th to 29th rows: Rep 6th and 7th rows 8 times. 30th row: As 12th row. 31st row: As 7th row. 32nd to 35th rows: Rep 6th and 7th rows twice.

36th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each dc across. Turn. 37th row: Ch 3. Miss first sc. (Yoh and draw up a loop in next sc. Yoh and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. Yoh and draw through all loops on hook dc2tog made. 1 dc in next sc. Dc2tog over next 2 sc. 1 dc in last sc. Turn. 38th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each st across. Turn. 39th row: Ch 3. Miss first sc. (Yoh and draw up a loop in next sc. Yoh and draw through 2 loops on hook) 3 times. Yoh and draw through all loops on hook dc3tog made. 1 dc in last sc. 40th row: As 38th row. 41st row: Ch 3. Miss first sc. Dc2tog over last 2 sc. Do not fasten off. Cont as follows to join: Pin sides of Front and Back to sides of Gusset to fold rows, then bottom of Front and Back to rows of Gusset between fold rows. With RS of Front or Back facing and working through both thicknesses, work 19 sc down 1 side, 3 sc in corner, 25 sc across bottom, 3 sc in corner and 19 sc up other side. Next row: Working from left to right instead of from right to left, as usual, work 1 reverse sc in each sc across. Fasten off. Tab: Ch 12. Turn chain sideways. Sl st in center bump at back of 2nd ch from hook. Sl st in next bump and each bump to end of ch. Fasten off. Sew in position at top of Bag as shown. Sew zipper in position. ROSE (make 2) With MC, ch 16. 1st row: (RS). 2 dc in 4th ch from hook. 3 dc in each ch to end of ch. Fasten off. Coil rose to form rosebud and sew to Front of Bag as shown in picture. LEAF (make 4) With A, ch 8. 1st row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 hdc in next ch. 1 dc in each of next 3 ch. 1 hdc in next ch. 1 sc in last ch. Fasten off. Sew 1 Leaf to each side of Rose as shown in picture.

Loop and Bar Lace Drawstring Bag

In this pattern, a drawstring top made of rows of chain loops, is used as a closure for the bag. A pretty loop and bar lace edging decorates the lower edge. There are extra photos throughout the pattern to refer to while making the bag. Abbreviations used in this pattern: ch = chain, dc = double crochet, ea = each, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, sp = space Materials Used In The Example: 3 oz. Light worsted weight yarn - Caron Simply Soft Brites, color No. 9604, Watermelon U.S. Size G crochet hook If you use a regular worsted weight yarn to make this bag, you may wish to crochet with a U.S. size H crochet hook. Finished purse size: (when made with light worsted weight yarn) about 6 1/2 inches wide x 11 inches long (counting the loop and bar lace edging but not counting the purse strap) Gauge: 4 sc = 1", 10 single crochet rows = 2" How To Slip Stitch (sl st) = Insert hook in stitch, wrap yarn over hook, pull yarn through the stitch and through the loop on the hook, at the same time. How To Crochet In The Back Loop Only http://crochet.about.com/library/blbackfrontloop.htm Purse Directions: Pattern copyright 2006 by Sandi Marshall, licensed to About.com, Inc. Square (Make 2): Chain 22. Square Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in ea ch across. (21 sc) Square Rows 2 - 25: ch 1 to turn, sc in first sc, sc in ea sc across the row. (21 sc) Outside Round: ch 2 for corner, then working down the side of the square, sc in the end of ea row along the side, until you reach the next corner. For corner, ch 2, sc in ea sc along other side of square, ch 2 for the next corner, sc in end of ea row along the other side, until you reach the next corner. For corner, ch 2, sc in ea sc along other side of square. End with a sl st in the beginning ch 2 of this round. Outside Row 1 (worked three-fourths of the way around the square): Working down the side of the square, ch 1, sc in the back loop only of the first sc, sc in the back loop only of ea sc until you reach the corner, ch 2 for the corner, sc in the back loop only of ea sc until you reach the next corner, ch 2 for the corner, sc in the back loop only of ea sc along the next side. When making first square, end off at this point. For second square, do not end off at this point, but continue with the joining row: Second Square - Joining Row: Hold the two pieces with the wrong sides together. ch 1. Make a single crochet

through the front loop of each sc on the piece nearest to you and, at the same time, through the back loop of each corresponding sc on the piece behind (to join the two pieces by crocheting through the stitches of both pieces at the same time). Make 2 sc in each ch-2 corner. In this manner, sc around 3 sides, as a way to join the two pieces (leave the top open). Top Loops and The Edging: At the end of the Joining Row, ch 10, sl st in the last sc made in the Joining Row, then turn and sl st in ea ch of the ch-10 loop just made, sl st again in the last sc made in the Joining Row, * sc in next sc, ch 1, dc in next sc, ch 1, sc in next sc, sl st in next sc **, repeat the directions between * and ** 5 more times to reach the first corner. Then sc in next sc, ch 1, dc in next sc, ch 1, sc in ea of next 25 sc across the bottom, ch 1, dc in next sc, ch 1, repeat the directions between * and ** 6 more times, to reach the top of the next side. Then make the other Top Loop, as follows: ch 10, sl st in the last sl st made in the Edging, then turn and sl st in ea ch of the ch-10 loop just made, sl st again in the last sl st made in the Edging. End off. Weave in ends.

Drawstring Top For Bag: Attach yarn in the back loop of the first sc on the right-hand side top row of the bag (not on the edging). Drawstring Top Round 1: * Chain 5, skip next 3 sc, sc in the back loop of the next sc **, repeat the directions between * and ** 4 times, chain 5, skip next 2 sc, sc in the end of the next sc row (the Outside Row that was crocheted around the square), chain 5, skip to the first sc of the square on the other side of the bag, sc in the back loop of that sc, * chain 5, skip next 3 sc, sc in the back loop of the next sc **, repeat the directions between * and ** 4 times, chain 5, skip next 2 sc, sc in the end of the next sc row (the Outside Row that was crocheted around the square), chain 5, sl st in same place where yarn was attached for this round. Drawstring Top Rnd 2: sl st in ea of first 3 chains of the first ch-5 loop that was made in Round 1 (to reach the starting point for rnd 2). * ch 5, sc in next ch-5 loop **, repeat the directions between * and ** as many times as needed to go around, then sl st back in the starting point for this round. Drawstring Top Rnd 3: sl st in ea of first 3 chains of the first ch-5 loop that was made in Round 2 (to reach the starting point for rnd 3). * ch 5, sc in next ch-5 loop **, repeat the directions between * and ** as many times as needed to go around, then sl st back in the starting point for this round. Drawstring Top Rnd 4: sl st in ea of first 3 chains of the first ch-5 loop that was made in Round 3 (to reach the starting point for rnd 4). * ch 4, sc in next sc between loops, ch 4, sc in the center of the next ch-5 loop **, repeat the directions between * and ** as many times as needed to go around. When you have reached the last loop, the last part will be: ch 4, sc in next sc between loops, ch 4, then sl st back in the starting point for this round. Drawstring: ch 100. End off. Weave in ends. Tie a knot near one end to secure the end of the chain from possible unraveling. Tie a knot near the other end to secure that end of the chain. Starting in the center front, weave the drawstring through the upper row of loops (the Rnd 4 loops) of the Drawstring Top For Bag. Strap: If you want a shorter strap, make less chains than indicated (the strap length will be folded in half). For a shoulder bag length strap, ch 260. String the strap through the 2 Top Loops, one on each side of the bag, then join the strap ends (for the strap to be a continuous loop). Position the strap so that the halfway

point of the strap is the part of the strap going through the Top Loop on each side of the bag then hold the straps together at the top (this makes a strap of two chains). Use the Wrap For Strap below to secure the straps together at the top. Wrap For Strap: ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook. sc in ea of next 10 chs. (11 sc) Wrap Rows 2 - 6: ch 1 to turn, sc in ea sc across. (11 sc) End off, leaving a strand for sewing. Thread the yarn strand on a large-eye needle, fold the Wrap For Strap piece around the straps and sew the ends of the Wrap For Strap piece together where row 1 and row 6 meet. Weave in ends.

Adding The Loop and Bar Lace Edging: Downsized Loop and Bar Lace Pattern Antique Pattern Reworked By Sandi Marshall I've resized the antique loop and bar lace pattern (see crochet instructions below). For an example of a way to use this lace, see my Loop and Bar Lace Drawstring Bag Free Pattern at http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa032506.htm. The original version of the Loop and Bar Lace pattern is from the year 1899. I rewrote and added to the crochet directions. I've also given the authentic antique instructions, for comparison, on the Original Version Loop And Bar Lace free pattern page. Directions by Sandi Marshall Materials Used In Examples: Light worsted weight yarn - Caron Simply Soft Brites, color No. 9604, Watermelon Crochet hook U.S. size G Each section is 2 1/4" wide x 3 1/2" long Other example, shown in photo below: Aunt Lydia's Crochet Cotton Thread, size 10, color No. 180, Shaded Dark Yellow U.S. size 7 steel crochet hook Each section is 1 1/4" wide x 1 1/2" long Abbreviations: ch = chain chs = chains dc = double crochet sc = single crochet sl st = slip stitch sp = space Starting Chain - Ch 18. Row 1 - Sc in 10th ch from hook, * chain 5, skip 3 chains, sc in next ch **, repeat the directions between * and ** once more, turn. Row 2 - ch 5, sc in first chain-5 sp, * ch 5, sc in next ch-5 space **, repeat the directions between * and ** once more, turn. Row 3 - ch 7, dc in first chain-5 sp, * ch 3, dc in next ch-5 space **, repeat the directions between * and **

once more, turn. Row 4 - ch 3, (3 dc in next chain-3 sp) twice, then 12 dc in ch-7 sp, sl st in loop at end of row 1 (on the first time making a row 4, when making the first section). When repeating rows 2-5 to make additional sections: at the end of row 4, instead of doing a sl st in the end of row 1, you will sl st in the closest loop of the nearest previous row 5 (the loop already worked in, not the unworked loop). Refer to photo above to see the placement of that slip stitch. At the end of row 4, turn. Row 5 - (ch 5, skip 2 dc, sc in next dc) 3 times altogether, ch 5, sc between the 12-dc scallop and the first group of 3 dc, ch 5, sc between the next two 3dc-groups, ch 5, end with sc in the space between the last 3dcgroup and the last stitch of this row. Turn. Repeat - Repeat rows 2 - 5, as many times as needed for the width you want. The original version of the Loop and Bar Lace Pattern was originally published in the book A Treatise On Embroidery, Crochet and Knitting, published in the year 1899 (now in the public domain). Reworked shorter version Loop and Bar Lace Pattern rewritten instructions and the color pattern photo on this page are copyright 2006 by Sandi Marshall, licensed to About.com, Inc. Free for your own personal use only. Crochet the edging as a separate piece from the bag. Following the directions of the Downsized Loop and Bar Lace Edging printed from the link above, crochet rows 1 - 5, then repeat rows 2 - 5 twice, but do not end off. Attach to the bottom row of the Loop and Bar Lace Drawstring Bag, as follows: Laying the edging upside down on the bag, line up the top of the edging with the bottom of the bag. Work a row of single crochet across the edge, working through both the bag and the edging at the same time, to join the two pieces. At the end of this joining row, unfold the edging and then work down the side of the edging to complete the loops for the edge, as follows: ch 5, skip 2 chains, sc in next ch, ch 5, skip 3 chains, sc in next ch, ch 5, skip 3 chains, sl st in the sl st at the beginning of the next chain loop. End off. Weave in ends.

Cash 'n cards case wallet

Size: approximately 4 X 4 inches MATERIALS: Small amount worsted weight yarn Snap, Size 4 Dritz 80-4-65 Matching sewing thread (I used 2 plys of the yarn to sew mine) Needle with large eye that will go through holes in snap G (4.5 mm) hook GAUGE: 8 sc = 2, 7 sc rows = 2 Ch 15. See note 1. ROUND 1: Make 2 sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in each chain (12) to last chain, working over yarn tail for remainder of this round, 3 sc in last ch, work in opposite side of starting chain and sc in each of 13 chain stitches; [30 sc] ROUND 2: Slip stitch in BACK loop of first sc of round 1 (counts as first sc), sc in BACK loop of each sc around. [30 sc] DO NOT join rounds. See note 2. ROUNDS 3-8: Sc in BACK loop of next sc and in BACK loop of each sc around. [30 sc] ROUND 9: Sc in BACK loop of next sc and in BACK loop of each sc around to the last 2 sts before the side edge fold. Slip stitch in last 2 sc ending at fold. Ch 1, turn. Now work back and forth in rows. Row 1: Sc in 2 slip stitches, sc in 12 sc. Ch 1, turn. (14 sc) Row 2: Sc in 14 sc. (14 sc) Fasten off. Repeat for second pocket. But do not fasten off after row 2. Row 3: Place pockets together with the short side of pockets on the inside. Ch 1, sc through both pocket upper edges across.

Notes: 1. When using one of the multicolor worsted weights you may want to ch 17 and work 10 rows before starting flap. Seems most the multicolor yarns are thinner than the solids. Then work the two rows over 16 stitches

2. It seems easiest to work the case inside out when working in the back loop, turning right side out for round 9.

Mesh Bag
Directions by Sandi Marshall - Crocheted With Worsted Weight Yarn

Here's a medium size bag that's quick and easy to make, that would have an endless number of possible uses. This oval mesh bag can be handy as a storage bag for anything that's just large enough to not fall through the mesh holes. It could be used for keeping pieces of a child's game together or storing small plastic children's blocks, just for a few examples. It could also be handy for a carry-along bag for anyone to have a few things ready to take along in the car. These are just a few examples. There would be many other uses. Pattern Directions Abbreviations: ch = chain dc = double crochet ea = each sl st = slip stitch sp = space st = stitch sts = stitches How To Slip Stitch (sl st) = Insert hook in stitch, wrap thread or yarn over hook, pull thread or yarn through the stitch and through the loop on the hook, at the same time. A slip stitch does not add any height and is used to join a chain or stitch to another place in the crochet piece. Asterisk (*) Repeat Explained Materials Used In The Example: Worsted weight yarn with a size G hook Approximate Finished Size: Worsted weight yarn with a size G hook - about 8" long Bag Directions Starting Chain: Chain 6. Join (with a slip stitch) to form a circle. Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as first dc), 16 dc into ring, join with slip sitich in top of beginning chain-3. Rnd 2: Ch 4 (counts as first dc and first chain-1), dc in first dc, * ch 1, dc in next dc **, repeat from * to ** around, join with sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4 of this round. Rnd 3: Sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 4, dc in next ch-1 sp, * (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) three times, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp **, repeat from * to ** around. Rnd 4: Sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 4, dc in next ch-1 sp, * (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) four times, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp **, repeat from * to ** around. End with ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, join with sl st in

the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4 of this round. Rnd 5: Sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 4, dc in next ch-1 sp, * (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) five times, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp **, repeat from * to ** around. Rnd 6: Sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 4, dc in next ch-1 sp, * (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) six times, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp **, repeat from * to ** around. End last repeat with (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) 5 times, ch 1, join with sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4 of this round. Rnd 7: Sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 4, dc in next ch-1 sp, * (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) seven times, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp **, repeat from * to ** around. End last repeat with (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) 5 times, ch 1, join with sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4 of this round. Rnd 8: Sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 4, dc in next ch-1 sp, * (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) eight times, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp **, repeat from * to ** around. End last repeat with (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) 5 times, ch 1, join with sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4 of this round. Rnd 9: Sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 4, dc in next ch-1 sp, * (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) nine times, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp **, repeat from * to ** around. End last repeat with (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) 5 times, ch 1, join with sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4 of this round. Rnd 10: Sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 4, dc in next ch-1 sp, * (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) ten times, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp **, repeat from * to ** around. End last repeat with (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) 5 times, ch 1, join with sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4 of this round. Rnd 11: Sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 4, dc in next ch-1 sp, * (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) eleven times, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp **, repeat from * to ** around. End last repeat with (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) 5 times, ch 1, join with sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4 of this round. Rnd 12: Sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 4, dc in next ch-1 sp, * (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) twelve times, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp **, repeat from * to ** around. End last repeat with (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) 5 times, ch 1, join with sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4 of this round. Rnd 13: Sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 4, dc in next ch-1 sp, * (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) thirteen times, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp **, repeat from * to ** around. End last repeat with (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) 5 times, ch 1, join with sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4 of this round. Rnds 14 - 16: Sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 4, dc in next ch-1 sp, * ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp **, repeat from * to ** around, join with sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4 of round. To finish: End off. Weave in ends. Drawstring: There are two different ways to make the drawstring (see below). Drawstring 1: Make a chain about 27 inches long. Sc in 2nd ch from hook. Sc in ea ch across. End off. Weave in ends. Weave finished drawstring through the mesh holes in the top row of the bag, with drawstring woven all the way around and coming back out in the same mesh hole where you started. If you wish, tie the two drawstring ends together, with a knot that's about 1 inch from the ends. Drawstring 2: Make two chains, each about 15 inches long. In each chain: Sc in 2nd ch from hook. Sc in ea ch across. End off. Weave in ends. Start at any ch-1 space on the top row of the bag and weave one drawstring through half of the mesh spaces, leaving a length of drawstring hanging at both ends. Repeat this with the second drawstring on the other half of the bag's top row. On one end, tie the two drawstrings together, with a knot that's about 1 inch in from the ends. Repeat this with the drawstring ends on the other side. This makes a double handle carrying strap for the bag. Pattern was inspired by an antique pattern from the year 1919 (the original pattern instructions are now old enough to be in the public domain). Originally published as a Round Lettuce Bag, made with thread (with limited instructions) in the book Royal Society Crochet, Number 13, published in the year 1919. Pattern reworked, changed around, instructions rewritten by and copyright 2003 by Sandi Marshall

Triangle Evening Purse

Designed by Sylvia Landman

One easy bag, two terrific looks! This pattern uses the standard two-part Tunisian or afghan stitch and the double-ended crochet hook to add a second color, creating a simple stripe on one side and a reverse stripe on the other. By decreasing at the beginning and end of copper rows, the bag takes on a dynamic triangle shape. Materials needed: 2 (25m) spools Kreinik Heavy (#32) Braid 005 Black 2 (25m) spools Kreinik Heavy (#32) Braid 021HL Copper Hi Lustre G double crochet hook Large-eye needle old credit card Instructions Bag front and back: make 2 Foundation row: Using the G hook with black, make starting knot, place on hook and chain 36. Pattern: Using the traditional Tunisian foundation, insert hook into back loop of second chain from hook, yarn over and draw through leaving loop on hook two loops on hook. Continue to end. Drop black. There will be 36 loops on the hook. Turn hook. Slide stitches to working end. Make starting knot with copper, place on hook and draw through first black loop to secure. (Knots will be on opposite ends of the hook.) Using the traditional Tunisian stitch part two, yarn over and draw through the copper loop and one black loop. Continue to end with one copper loop remaining on hook. Using the traditional Tunisian part one, insert hook into the front vertical post of the second stitch, yarn over and draw through. This is your second loop. Continue to end. Drop copper. There will be 36 loops on the hook. Turn hook, using a back and forth motion, so thread does not become twisted. Slide stitches to working end. Decrease Row: Pick up black. Yarn over and draw through two copper loops. Yarn over and draw through black loop and one copper loop. Continue until two copper loops remain. Yarn over and draw through black loop and the last two copper loops. The two loops in the decrease count as the first stitch. Using the traditional Tunisian part one, insert hook into the front vertical post of the second stitch, yarn over, draw through. This is your second loop. Continue to end, making sure you insert into both of the copper loops decreased at the beginning. Drop black. There will be 34 loops on the hook. Turn hook. Slide stitches to working end. Pick up copper. Yarn over and draw through one black loop. Copper loop will remain on hook, the rest will be black. Yarn over and draw through the copper loop and one black loop. Continue to end until one copper loop remains on hook. Insert hook into the front vertical post of the second stitch, yarn over, draw through. This is your second loop. Continue to end. Drop copper. There will be 34 loops on the hook. Continue decreasing the copper loops in this manner until one loop remains, hold copper thread with black and tie off. Weave in ends from the starting row. Bag flap: make 1 Pattern: Using the traditional Tunisian foundation, insert hook into back loop of second chain from hook, yarn over and draw through leaving loop on hook two loops on hook. Continue to end. Drop black. There will be 36 loops on the hook. You will decrease in every row for the flap. Turn hook. Slide stitches to working end. Make starting knot with copper, place on hook and draw through two black loops to secure, this is the beginning decrease. (Knots will be on opposite ends of the hook.) Using the traditional Tunisian stitch part two, yarn over and

draw through the copper loop and one black loop. Continue until two black loops remain, yarn over and draw through the copper loop and the last two black loops, this is the ending decrease. Using the traditional Tunisian part one, insert hook behind front vertical post of the second stitch, yarn over and draw through. This is your second loop. Continue to end, making sure to insert hook behind both front vertical posts of the decrease. Drop copper. There will be 34 loops on the hook. Turn hook. Slide stitches to working end. Pick up black, work decrease at beginning and end of row. Continue until one loop remains, hold copper thread with black and tie off. leave ends very long for use in the closure. Weave in ends at the starting rows. DO NOT weave in the threads at point end. Tassel: make 2 Using credit card, hold both threads together and wrap loosely around credit card until desired thickness is reached. End on the same side you begin. Use long thread to tie off at top fold. Slide off card. Secure bundle close to top knot. Cut loops on the bottom, trimming ends to make even. Assembly Front, back, flap: Place front and back of bag together same sides facing. Using black thread, sew sides together with a whip stitch. Place flap at top edge of bag with same sides facing out. Using black thread, sew sides together with a whip stitch. Weave in ends of thread used for sewing. Do not weave in threads at the point end of the flap. Using both color threads, make a starting knot and join at the top corner of the front/back seam with a slip knot. Chain until strap reaches desired length. Join at opposite top corner of the front/back seam. Weave in ends. Tassel: Insert hook into bottom point of bag. Pull one top thread end through. Secure with a knot. Turn bag inside out and repeat with second tassel. After tassel is attached, close bag. Run threads at point of flap down and around tassel and tie in a bow behind tassel for closure.

Taupe bag

Materials:
I have used: 1) 8.00 mm hook (US = L, UK = 0) for bag 2) 4.00 mm hook (US = G, UK = 8) for handle 3) Chunky yarn 400 gm 4) Tapestry needle 5) One Plastic Canvas size 13" x 10.5" Gauge: Size 8.00 mm hook: 11 sc = 4 Size: Bottom of the bag is 15.5 x 4.5 and 12.5 high. Handle 19

Abbreviations:
ch = chain sc = single crochet st = stitch sl = slip

pc = popcorn stitch dc = double crochet

Popcorn Stitch = 5 dc in same st, drop loop from hook, insert hook in top of first dc of group, pull dropped loop through st. Bottom: Working in rows. Use 8.00 mm hook. Row 1: Ch 12, sc in second chain from hook, sc in next 10 chs, turn. (11) Row 2-40: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 41: Ch 1, sc in each st across, working in ends of rows; sc in end of row 40, sc in next 39 rows, working on opposite side of row 1; sc in next 11 sts, working in ends of rows; sc in next 40 rows, sl st in first st, fasten off. Cut Plastic canvas and sew them to bottom of bag (I used 2 layers of plastic canvas). Bag: Working in rows. Use 8.00 mm hook. (Diagram follows below) Row 1: Ch 107, sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. (106) Row 2-7: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 8: Ch 1, sc in sc in next 8 sts, pc, sc in next 14 sts, pc, sc in next 5 sts, pc, sc in next 14 sts, pc, sc in next 16 sts, pc, sc in next 14 sts, pc, sc in next 5 sts, pc, sc in next 14 sts, pc, sc in next 8 sts, turn. (106) Row 9-13: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 14: Ch 1, sc in next 26 sts, pc, sc in next 52 sts, pc, sc in next 26 sts, turn. Row 15: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 16: Ch 1, sc in next 14 sts, pc, sc in next 5 sts, pc, sc in next 4 sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 4 sts, pc, sc in next 5 sts, pc, sc in next 28 sts, pc, pc, sc in next 5 sts, pc, sc in next 4 sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 4 sts, pc, sc in next 5 sts, pc, sc in next 14 sts, turn. Row 17: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 18: Ch 1, sc in next 8 sts, pc, sc in next 15 sts, pc, sc in next sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 15 sts, pc, sc in next 16 sts, pc, sc in next 15 sts, pc, sc in next sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 15 sts, pc, sc in next 8 sts, turn. Row 19: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 20: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 13 sts, pc, sc in next sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 13 sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 14 sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 13 sts, pc, sc in next sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 13 sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 7 sts, turn. Row 21: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 22: Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 5sts, pc, sc in next 5 sts, pc, sc in next sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 5 sts, pc, sc in next 5 sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 12 sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 5sts, pc, sc in next 5 sts, pc, sc in next sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 5 sts, pc, sc in next 5 sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 6 sts, turn. Row 23: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 24: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 13 sts, pc, sc in next sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 13 sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 14 sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 13 sts, pc, sc in next sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 13 sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 7 sts, turn. Row 25: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 26: Ch 1, sc in next 8 sts, pc, sc in next 15 sts, pc, sc in next sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 15 sts, pc, sc in next 16 sts, pc, sc in next 15 sts, pc, sc in next sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 15 sts, pc, sc in next 8 sts, turn. Row 27: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 28: Ch 1, sc in next 14 sts, pc, sc in next 5 sts, pc, sc in next 4 sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 4 sts, pc, sc in next 5 sts, pc, sc in next 28 sts, pc, pc, sc in next 5 sts, pc, sc in next 4 sts, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 4 sts, pc, sc in next 5 sts, pc, sc in next 14 sts, turn. Row 29: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 30: Ch 1, sc in next 26 sts, pc, sc in next 52 sts, pc, sc in next 26 sts, turn. Row 31-35: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 36: Ch 1, sc in sc in next 8 sts, pc, sc in next 14 sts, pc, sc in next 5 sts, pc, sc in next 14 sts, pc, sc in next 16 sts, pc, sc in next 14 sts, pc, sc in next 5 sts, pc, sc in next 14 sts, pc, sc in next 8 sts, turn. (106) Row 37-45: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 46: Ch 1, sc in each st across, fasten off.

Sew chain stitch around the squares. Sew side of bag together.

Handle: Working in rows. Use 4.00 mm hook.

Row 1: Ch 5, sc in second chain from hook, sc in next 4 chs, turn. (4) Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, turn. (6) Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, turn. (8) Row 4-98: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (or make as long as you like) Row 99: Ch 1, sc first 2 sts tog, sc in next 4 sts, sc next 2 sts tog, turn. (6) Row 100: Ch 1, sc first 2 sts tog, sc in next 2 sts, sc next 2 sts tog, fasten off. (4)

Sew side of handle together but leave 8 rows at both ends free, see picture.

Finishing:
Sew bag to the bottom, use piece of yarns to keep them in right place.

Pin handle on bag and sew.

Make 2 strings on both side of bag, see picture.

Half Circle Purse

When making this handbag in the Bernat Super Stripes yarn, I crocheted only one row of single crochet for the strap but, when making it in Red Heart Super Saver yarn (second picture), I did an extra row of single crochet on the strap, to make it thicker and sturdier.

Abbreviations: ch = chain, dc = double crochet, dec = decrease, ea = each, sc = single crochet, sp = space, st = stitch, yo = yarn over Materials: Example was made with about 2 oz. Bernat Self Striping yarn, US size H hook Could use any worsted weight yarn, US size H hook or a bulky weight novelty yarn, US size I or J hook. or a sport weight yarn, US size F or G hook Back Loop Only / Front Loop Only - Crochet only on the front or back loop of the previous row. sc decrease (sc dec) - Meaning single crochet two stitches and unite them both to decrease. dc decrease (dc dec) over next 2 dc: yo, insert hook under both loops of next dc, yo, draw yarn through the dc, yo, draw yarn through 2 loops on hook, (you should now have 2 loops left on the hook), yo, insert hook under both loops of next dc, yo, draw yarn through the dc, yo, draw yarn through 2 loops on hook, (you should now have 3 loops left on the hook), yo, draw yarn through all 3 loops on the hook. This is done in the same manner as a 2-dc cluster, except that with a cluster you would do a ch-1 to close the cluster and with a decrease over 2 dc, you do not do the ch-1 at the end.

The cluster stitch is made up of a number of stitches that are half closed, then joined together. The number of stitches varies from pattern to pattern. The
pattern you are making will tell you how many stitches to use in forming the cluster you are making for that pattern.

cluster over 7 dc: (used in row 16), * yo, insert hook under both loops of next dc, yo, draw yarn through the dc, yo, draw yarn through 2 loops on hook **, repeat the directions between * and ** 6 more times (each time, you will have an additional loop left on the hook, until you have a total of 8 loops on the hook). Then yo, draw yarn through all 8 loops on the hook at the same time, ch 1 to close the cluster. The Shells and

Cluster Scarf pattern page shows a photo (partway down that page) of an even larger cluster in progress that has 10 loops on the hook. Taking a look at that can give you an idea how a large cluster in progress looks and may help you in knowing how to make the cluster over 7 dc for this pattern. Shells and Clusters Scarf pattern URL is http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa011803.htm Pattern Note: You will turn at the end of each row. Although they are worked in half circles, I am calling them rows because you will turn at the end of each half circle so it is more like a curved row than a round. Starting Chain: Leaving a strand to weave in later to secure the end, chain 4. Row 1: make 5 dc in the 4th ch from the hook. If needed, see my help photo at http://crochet.about.com/od/learnbasics/ss/basictsq_4.htm (shows 4 dc but in this pattern you will make 5 dc in 4th ch from hook). Row 2: ch 3 (counts as first dc), make a dc in the same place as the ch-3, 2 dc in ea dc across. (12 dc) Row 3: ch 3 (counts as first dc), (2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc) 5 times, 2 dc in last dc. (18 dc) Row 4: ch 3 (counts as first dc), (2 dc in next dc, dc in ea of next 2 dc) 5 times, 2 dc in next dc, dc in last dc. (24 dc) Row 5: ch 3 (counts as first dc), (2 dc in next dc, dc in ea of next 3 dc) 5 times. 2 dc in next dc, dc in ea of last 2 dc. (30 dc) Row 6: ch 3 (counts as first dc), (2 dc in next dc, dc in ea of next 4 dc) 5 times, 2 dc in next dc, dc in ea of last 3 dc. (36 dc) Row 7: ch 3 (counts as first dc), (2 dc in next dc, dc in ea of next 5 dc) 5 times, 2 dc in next dc, dc in ea of last 4 dc. (42 dc) Row 8: ch 3 (counts as first dc), (2 dc in next dc, dc in ea of next 6 dc) 5 times, 2 dc in next dc, dc in ea of last 5 dc. (48 dc) See a closer look at the stitches and techniques used in crocheting the back part of this purse before the flap is added.

Taking a close look at this photo can help in seeing how the single crochet are made around the posts of the double crochet when doing the Top Round. At the top center, you can see the cluster made over 7 double crochet (made in Row 16). You can see the double crochet decreases made in rows 10 - 15. Notice the placement of the chain-6 for a Strap Loop on each side of the bag.

Row 9 (Begins the Back): Crochet in the front loop only of each stitch for this row, ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in ea dc across. (48 dc) dc decrease (dc dec) instructions are given at the start of this pattern. Row 10: ch 3 (counts as first dc), (dc decrease over next 2 dc, dc in ea of next 5 dc) 5 times, dc dec over next 2 dc, dc in ea of last 3 dc. (41 dc) Row 11: ch 3 (counts as first dc), (dc dec over next 2 dc, dc in ea of next 4 dc) 5 times, dc dec over next 2 dc, dc in ea of last 2 dc. (34 dc) Row 12: ch 3 (counts as first dc), (dc dec over next 2 dc, dc in ea of next 3 dc) 6 times, dc dec over next 2 dc, dc in last dc. (27 dc) Row 13: ch 3 (counts as first dc), (dc dec over next 2 dc, dc in ea of next 2 dc) 6 times, dc dec over next 2 dc. (20 dc) Row 14: ch 3 (counts as first dc), (dc dec over next 2 dc, dc in next dc) 6 times, dc in ea of last 2 dc. (14 dc)

Row 15: ch 3 (counts as first dc), (dc dec over next 2 dc) 6 times, dc in last dc. (8 dc) Row 16: ch 3, make a cluster over the next 7 dc (see those directions at the start of this pattern).

(Row 16 cluster zoomed) Do not turn at the end of row 16 but continue with directions for Top Round. You will now work around the top edge of the front and back. Used in Top Round: sc around post of dc. Top Round: ch 1, sc in center of cluster just made, 2 sc around post of ea of next 8 dc, ch 6 for strap loop, 2 sc around post of ea of next 8 dc, sc in next st, 2 sc around post of ea of next 8 dc, ch 6 for strap loop, 2 sc around post of ea of next 8 dc, sl st in first sc of this round. Do not turn. Top Round 2: ch 1, sc in first sc, sc in ea of next 16 sc, 7 sc in ch-6 (strap loop), sc in ea of next 33 sc, make 7 sc in next ch-6 strap loop, sc in ea of next 17 sc, then sl st in the first sc of this round. End off, leaving a strand for weaving in, to secure. Weave in ends securely, going back and forth several times with the weaving in of each end, so that the end will not unravel with use. See weaving in how-to photos at http://crochet.about.com/library/bl_weave_ends.htm Flap: With the back of the purse facing you, attach yarn on the back of the purse, in the first stitch after the right-hand side strap loop. Flap Row 1: Working in the back loop only of each sc, make an sc in ea sc across until you reach the strap loop on the left-hand side. This row is worked in the back loops only so that the flap will easily fold toward the front of the purse. Note: sc decrease (sc dec) how-to photos can be seen at http://crochet.about.com/library/bl_decrease.htm Flap Row 2: ch 1 to turn, make an sc decrease over the first two sc of the row, sc in ea sc across until 2 sc remain, then make an sc dec over the last two sc of the row. Flap Rows 3 - 8: Repeat Flap Row 2. Flap Row 9 (buttonhole row): ch 1 to turn, make an sc dec over the first two sc of the row, sc in ea of next 6 sc, ch 3, skip next 3 sc, sc in ea of next 6 sc, then make an sc dec over the last two sc of the row. Flap Row 10: ch 1 to turn, make an sc dec over the first two sc of the row, sc in ea sc until you reach the chain-3, make 3 sc in ch-3 sp, sc in ea sc until 2 sc remain, then make an sc dec over the last two sc of the row. Flap Row 11: Repeat Flap Row 2. Button: Close the purse flap to determine where the button will line up with the buttonhole. Mark that spot and use regular sewing thread and a sewing needle to sew the button in place. Strap: Leaving a strand to weave in later to secure the end, chain 125. Strap Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in ea ch across.

Note: If you are making the purse with a thinner yarn, you may want to make a second row of single crochet on the strap, to make it sturdier. Use your own judgement, according to the materials that you are using to crochet the purse. End off, leaving a strand for sewing. Finishing the Strap: Weave the strap through the Strap Loop on one side then through the Strap Loop on the other side. Check to make sure that the strap is not twisted anywhere along the strap then sew the two ends of the strap together. Weave the yarn end in, weaving back and forth several times, to secure, so that it will not come apart with use. When using the strap to carry the purse: You can double the strap over (refer to photo on page 1) or you can use the strap as a single strap when you want it longer, as a shoulder strap (as shown in the photo on this page). Wrap For Strap: If you are planning to only use the strap doubled, as in the photo on page 1, you could add this Wrap For Strap (shown around the top of the strap in the photo on page 1). Wrap For Strap, Starting Chain: ch 9. Wrap For Strap, Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in ea ch across. (8 sc) Wrap For Strap, Rows 2 - 7: ch 1, turn, sc in ea sc across. (8 sc) At the end of Row 7, end off, leaving a strand for sewing and for weaving in. Wrap For Strap, Joining: Wrap this piece around the doubled strap at about the center of the top of the strap. Being careful not to catch the strap itself in the sewing, sew across the seam of the Wrap For Strap, to join the two edges. End off, leaving a strand for weaving in. Weave in the ends, to secure. How To Single Crochet Around DC Post Photos and Instructions The following photos and instructions show how to single crochet around the post of a double crochet, used when making a round of crochet along the outside edge of double crochet rows. What is the post of the double crochet? The post is the rest of the stitch below the top loop. Normally, a crochet stitch is made through the top loop of a double crochet but some special stitches and techniques call for crocheting around the post of the double crochet stitch. Abbreviations: dc = double crochet, sc = single crochet

This photo shows the crocheted piece turned sideways in order to crochet along the outside edge for a finishing round of single crochet. The rows of the piece were made in double crochet (the double crochet stitches are being viewed sideways in this photo). To make the outside finishing round, it is necessary to crochet around the post of each double crochet at the end of each row. Here's how: SC Around Post of DC - Step 1: Insert the hook into the space below the double crochet that is on the edge of the row (as shown in the photo).

SC Around Post of DC - Step 2: Wrap yarn around the hook and pull the yarn through the space below the double crochet. Pull this yarn loop upward until it is above the double crochet by about the width of the crochet hook (as shown in the photo). This is in preparation to complete the loop as a single crochet stitch. Note in the photo the two single crochet stitches already made around the post of the double crochet that is just before the one now being worked.

SC Around Post of DC - Step 3: Wrap yarn over hook and pull the yarn through the two loops on the hook to complete the single crochet stitch. The photo on the left shows the completed single crochet. I have placed a red rectangle around the post of the next (sideways) double crochet stitch to further illustrate which part of the double crochet is the post of the stitch.

Fleuri: A bag in blossom

by Julie Holetz Introduction This bag is pretty versatile in design. If you want a slightly less blooming bag, then fasten off your petals after only a couple of rows. If you want fewer layers of petals, just fasten off and pick up the yarn after a round or two and start the petals again. It can be made into a larger bag or a smaller one like a coin purse. You can even do petals on both sides of the bag for an exploding blooms bag, just work the back of the bag as you do for the front. A lining can be added. Using the chunky/bulky yarn and medium sized hook makes it sturdy enough to keep from stretching. You can crochet it in wool yarn and felt it - the flower really stands out beautifully. You have to add a few more rows to the purse in order to make it large enough after felting. You can make a wool shoulder strap felted as well and add a snap closing. You can also make it with Hobby Lobby's Dreamy Chenille in Roseberry. Just make sure it's softee chunky, has a nice sheen to it and is sooo soft You can use round rosewood colored rattan handles from Joann Fabrics. It turned out so daaarling! Materials List About 165 yards chunky or bulky weight yarn. (Sample used Bernat Softee Chunky (68 yards/1.34 oz/50g) in Hot Fuschia.)

Size J/6mm hook (if you want a sturdier or bulkier bag try a smaller hook) Stitch marker Yarn needle for weaving ends Two acrylic ring handles Gauge There is really no gauge as the bag can be done in any size. Using a smaller hook would make the bag smaller and more sturdy; using a larger hook or a worsted weight yarn would give it more drape, and you would probably need to have a lining added to counter any stretching. Notes Back of bag is done in both loops. The entire body of the bag is made as a spiral, so you will not join to the beginning of the round. Your first stitch will always be where the marker is. You will need to place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. You will always end each round with 2 hdc in the last stitch. When doing a two-color bag, work the back loop only rounds in the color of the flower and work the remaining rounds and back in the second color. US pattern notations used Ch = chain St = stitch Sl st = slip stitch Sc = single crochet Hdc = half double crochet The Pattern Begin Ch 3, this counts as your first hdc. Rnd 1: 1 hdc in 3 rd chain from hook 7 times. Place marker (the safety pin in the photo marks where you will begin round 2. 8 hdc Rnd 2: 2 hdc in first st of next round, 2 hdc in each st around. Move marker up. 16 hdc Rnd 3: 1 hdc in first st. 2 hdc in next st, (1 hdc in next, 2 hdc in next) repeat around. Move marker up. 24 hdc Rnd 4: 1 hdc in first st. 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next (1 hdc in each of next two sts, 2 hdc in next st) repeat around. Move marker up. 32 hdc. Rnd 5: 1 hdc in first st. 1 hdc in next two sts, 2 hdc in next st, (1 hdc in next three sts, 2 hdc in next st) repeat around. Move marker up. 40 hdc. Rnd 6: 1 hdc in first st. 1 hdc in next three sts 2 hdc in next st, (1 hdc in next four sts, 2 hdc in next st) repeat around. Move marker up. 48 hdc.

Rnd 7: 1 hdc in first st. 1 hdc in next four sts, 2 hdc in next st, (1 hdc in next five sts, 2 hdc in next st) repeat around. Move marker up. 56 hdc. Rnd 8: 1 hdc in first st. 1 hdc in next five sts, 2 hdc in next st, (1 hdc in next six sts, 2 hdc in next st) repeat around. Move marker up. 64 hdc. Rnd 9: 1 hdc in first st. 1 hdc in next six sts, 2 hdc in next st, (1 hdc in next seven sts, 2 hdc in next st) repeat around. 72 hdc. Next, Sc in first st, sl st in next and fasten off. These sts will help smooth out the end of the last round. Repeat pattern for front of bag working in back loop only for rounds 1-7. Work in both loops on rounds 8 and 9. Petal Pattern: (Hdc, dc, dc) in the next st. (Dc three times) in the next st. (Dc, dc, hdc in the next st). Sl st in the next two sts. Petals are done on the front of the bag in the exposed top loops from each round. Starting in the middle, or anywhere else your heart desires, pull yarn through and sl st in the next st. Rnd 1: *Place (sc, hdc, hdc) in the next st, (hdc, hdc, sc) in the next st. Sl st in next two sts*. Repeat ** pattern 2 more times. Rnds 2-5: Begin Petal Pattern, spiraling your way around the bag. Sl st to next st and fasten off. Finishing: With right sides facing, sew the last round together for about 45 sts. Fasten off and turn right side out. Starting 6 sts to the right of the center at the top of the bag, join ring to bag with a sl st and work 13 sc around the acrylic handles. Turn the bag over and repeat for the other handle. Weave in ends.

A Pretty Finger-Purse

Instructions rewritten by Sandi Marshall in today's crochet terminology Pattern was published in Handbook of Needlecraft Number 2, published 1915 by Needlecraft Publishing Co., Maine The original directions as written in 1915 are on: http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa040399.htm

Front Piece of the Purse:

Make a chain of 5 stitches and join to form a ring. 1. Chain 3, 1 double crochet in ring, chain 1. *2 nmdouble crochet in ring, chain 1; repeat from * 4 times, making 6 groups of double crochet and join last chain 1 to top of 1st chain-3. 2. Chain 1, single crochet between posts of first 2 double crochet, make 6 double crochet in chain-1 space; * single crochet between next 2 double crochet posts, make 6 double crochet in chain-1 space ** repeat the directions between * and ** around, join with slip stitch in first single crochet of this round. 3. Slip stitch in first double crochet, single crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, skip next double crochet, chain 4 ; * skip single crochet, skip first double crochet of next 6 double crochet group, single crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, skip next double crochet, chain 4 ** repeat the directions between * and ** around, join with slip stitch in first single crochet of this round. 4. Chain 6, * 7 double crochet in chain-4 space, chain 3; repeat from * around, ending with 6 double crochet in last chain-4 space, join with a slip stitch in the 3rd chain of the first chain-6. For a photo showing a close look at the repeats of rounds 1 - 4, see http://crochet.about.com/od/vintage/ss/purse1915.htm 0 5. Chain 1, * 4 single crochet in chain-3 space, double crochet in next 3 double crochet, (double crochet, ch 2, double crochet) in next double crochet, double crochet in next 3 double crochet ** ; repeat the directions between * and ** around, join with slip stitch in 1st sc. 6. Chain 3 (counts as 1st double crochet), double crochet in each of next 3 single crochet, double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, 4 single crochet in chain-2 space, single crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, single crochet in next 4 single crochet, single crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, 4 single crochet in chain-2 space, * double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, double crochet in each of next 4 single crochet, double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, 4 double crochet in chain-2 space ** ; repeat the directions between * and ** around, join with slip stitch in top of beginning chain 3 of this round. 7. Chain 3, double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, chain 2, skip 2 double crochet, single crochet in next double crochet, single crochet in each of next 20 single crochet, single crochet in next double crochet, * chain 2, skip next 2 double crochet, double crochet in each of next 7 double crochet **, repeat the directions between * and ** 6 more times, then chain 2, skip next 2 double crochet, double crochet in each of next 2 double crochet, join with slip stitch in top of beginning chain-3 of this round. On this last round, I noticed that the piece was starting to curl. (In vintage patterns, they didn't add extra stitches to compensate for going around a wider curve as the circle grew in size. Instead they loosened their tension so the loops at the tops of the stitches were longer to compensate for the curve.) In the sample, I tried to keep it authentic to the way it would have been crocheted in 1915 so loosened my tension on the last round. You might, however, prefer to add the extra stitches needed to keep the piece from curling. An extra stitch after about every 4 stitches should do it. Adjust this yourself as needed, according to your own crochet tension. 8. Chain 3, double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, 4 single crochet in chain-2 space, single crochet in each of next 22 single crochet across the top, 4 single crochet in chain-2 space, * double crochet in each of next 7 double crochet, 3 double crochet in chain-2 space ** ; repeat the directions between * and ** 6 more times, double crochet in each of next 2 double crochet, double crochet in same place as beginning chain-3, join with slip stitch in beginning chain-3 of this round. Fasten off neatly. This forms the front part of the purse. The 1917 directions indicated that:

The back is made in the same way up to the 6th round; in the 6th, 7th and 8th rounds the single crochets across the top are omitted, the entire round being made according to latter part of directions, working all around. In the 1915 pattern, the differences for rounds 6, 7 and 8 were not written out for crocheting the back piece. In the year 1915, crocheters were expected to figure the differences for these rounds out for themselves. This is how I did the 6th round for the back: ch 3, dc in ea of next 3 sc, dc in ea of next 4 dc, 4 dc in ch-2 sp, * dc in ea of next 4 dc, dc in ea of next 4 sc, dc in ea of next 4 dc, 4 dc in ch-2 sp **, repeat the directions between * and ** 4 more times, then dc in ea of next 4 dc, sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 of this round. This is how I did the 7th round for the back: I opted to make this round in solid double crochet, rather than a round with open areas, as in the round 7 directions for the front piece. Make your round 7 whichever way you think you will like the best. If you wish to make it in solid double crochet, here are my directions for the round, with the increases that I used (this is just a guideline; adjust increases, if needed, for your own crochet tension, so the piece will not buckle): ch 3, dc in ea of next 9 dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in ea of next 14 dc, 2 dc in ea of next 2 dc, dc in ea of next 15, 2 dc in next dc, dc in ea of next 15, 2 dc in ea of next 2 dc, dc in ea of next 15, 2 dc in next dc, dc in ea of next 14 dc, 2 dc in ea of next 2 dc, dc in ea of next 4 dc, sl st in top of the beginning ch-3 of this round. I also did the 8th round for the back in solid double crochet, with an increase or two on each rounded point, to keep the points from buckling. An increase is done by making 2 double crochet all in one same stitch. For the flap, two more rows are worked across one side of the second part or back, as follows: 1. Make a single crochet in center of the group of double crochet in chain-2 space, double crochet in each of next 3 double crochet, (chain 2, skip 1, double crochet in next 6 double crochet) twice, chain 2, skip 1, double crochet in next 3 double crochet and a single crochet in next, slip stitch in next; fasten off. 2. Attach thread in stitch before the first single crochet of last row. Make a single crochet in single crochet of last row, double crochet in each double crochet with 3 double crochet in chain-2 space and end with single crochet in single crochet, slip stitch in next stitch; fasten off neatly and securely. It is a good plan in fastening off a piece of work to not only draw the thread, after breaking, through the stitch, but to thread a sewing-needle with the end and make one or two close buttonhole-stitches to hold. When both parts are completed hold them together so that the last single crochet across the top of first part and the single crochet at end of 10th row of second part "match"; then fasten in the thread through both single crochet at the same time, * chain 3, skip 2 double crochet, 1 single crochet in next, drawing thread always through both parts at once; repeat around to other side of the top and continue around the flap in the same way. Finish with an edge of 3 single crochet in chain-3 space, chain 3 for a picot, 3 single crochet in same chain-3 space. Fill a ring three-fourths of an inch in diameter with single crochet, chain 40, fasten in single crochet at one side of top of first part, running the chain through the flap so that the latter will fold down over the first part and lie flat, chain 3, fasten in 3rd or 4th single crochet of top, chain 39, run through flap and fasten in next single crochet of ring, and repeat until you have made 9 chains, making 38 stitches in 3rd, 37 in 4th, 36 in 5th, then 37 in 5th, and increase to 40 stitches in 9th, which should fasten in last single crochet at other side of top. Line the purse or not, as desired. Lots of work went into rewriting this pattern. Please be kind and give the URL of this page to anyone who wants a copy of the pattern, instead of distributing reproduced copies of the pattern in any other way. Thank you. I appreciate it. URL is http://crochet.about.com/library/bl1915coinpurse.htm

A Pretty Finger-Purse Instructions rewritten by Sandi Marshall in today's crochet terminology

rocheted Clutch Purse Pattern 1940s Style

Long double crochet stitches, worked in skipped stitches, form a pretty stitch patterning on this purse. See a closer look at the stitches below. The bag could be made with a variety of different weights of thread or yarn, for different finished sizes. Choose size of hook used to correspond with weight of thread.

This sample that I crocheted shows a closer look at the stitches in this pattern. For further explanation and photos showing close looks at the stitches used, see my how-to for: Cross-Over Long Double Crochet Image by Sandi Marshall Materials: 1945 instructions called for Jack Frost Cordet - 5 75-yd. tubes, Interchangeable with Soutache, Knitting Worsted or Kordette. Size 5 white crochet hook. Abbreviations: ch = chain, st = stitch, sts = stitches, sc = single crochet, dc = double crochet Instructions: Starting Chain: Chain 61. Row 1: Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch. (60 sts) Ch 3, turn. Row 2: * Skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 sts, 1 dc in the skipped stitch; repeat from * across row (15 patterns). Ch 3, turn. Rows 3 - 41: Repeat row 2 for 38 rows (when making the purse with worsted weight yarn, this would be about 18 inches after row 41). Finishing: Work 1 row of sc around 4 sides. Fold up 8 inches and join with 1 row of sc on each side. Turn down remaining 2 inches for flap. Note: The measurements for the folds will vary according to the weight of thread or yarn that you used to make the purse and the resulting finished purse size. Go with the folds that look right to you for your finished purse size. A decorative button, clasp or pin may be added to the front as a "flap weight", if desired. Lining If desired, line bag with fabric of your choice. This Clutch Purse pattern was printed in the book Jack Frost Handbags in 1945. Grayscale photo is a crop from a photo in that publication. Color photo of stitches by Sandi Marshall, copyright 2000, licensed to About.com, Inc. Do not use this photo on another web page, blog page or otherwise. My HTML arrangement of these instructions copyright 2000 Sandi Marshall. Please give the URL of this page to anyone who would like to have the patterns, so that they may come here for themselves and benefit from everything else this site has to offer. Thank you. URL of this page is http://crochet.about.com/library/bl_1940bag4.htm

Jewelry bag

Jewelry Bag Materials: 1 oz. acrylic sport-weight yarn & Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook Ch 4; join with a slip stitch (sl st) to form a ring. Rnd 1: Chain 1, 8 single crochet (sc) in ring; do not join, mark end of each round (rnd). Work in back loops only beginning with Rnd 2. Rnd 2: [2 Sc in next sc] 8 times -- 16 sc. Rnd 3: [2 Sc in next sc, sc in next sc] 8 times -- 24 sc. Rnd 4: [2 Sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc] 8 times -- 32 sc. Rnd 5: [2 Sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc] 8 times -- 40 sc. Rnds 6-15: Sc in each sc around. At end of Rnd 15, join with a sl st in both loops of next sc. Now work remaining rnds in both loops. Rnd 16: Ch 4, skip next sc, [dc in next sc, ch 1, skip next sc] 19 times; join with a sl st in 3rd ch of ch-4. Rnd 17: Ch 1, [2 sc in next ch-1 sp] 20 times; join to first sc. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Make 2 twisted cords starting with a 3-yard length of yarn for each. Weave each through ch-1 sps of Rnd 17 in opposite directions. Knot ends of cord together; trim ends.

Materials: Yarn: RED HEART Eco-Cotton Blend: 2 skeins 1340 Almond Crochet Hook: 3.75 mm [US F-5] Stitch marker Yarn needle Gauge: Rounds 1-9 = 4 diameter. Size: Bag measures 12 wide x 14 tall, unstretched. Bag has considerable stretch. Special Abbreviation: Sc2tog = Single crochet decrease insert hook in first st, draw up a loop; insert hook in next st, draw up a loop, yo, draw through all loops on hook. Instructions: BASE Round 1 (Right Side): Using adjustable loop technique, work 8 sc in ring 8 sts. Mark beginning of round, moving marker up each round. Round 2: 2 sc in each st around 16 sts. Round 3: *Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around 24 sts. Round 4: *Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around 32 sts. Round 5: *Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around 40 sts. Round 6: *Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around 48 sts. Round 7: *Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around 56 sts. Round 8: *Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around 64 sts. Round 9: *Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around 72 sts. Round 10: *Sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around 80 sts. Round 11: *Sc in each of next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around 88 sts. Round 12: *Sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around 96 sts. MESH SECTION Round 1: Sc in first st, *ch 5, skip next 2 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * to last 2 sts, ch 2, skip 2 sts, dc in first st to join 32 spaces. Round 2: (Dc just made is first st of rnd), *ch 5, sc in next ch-5 space; repeat from * around, end ch 2, dc in first st to join 32 spaces. Rounds 3-30: Repeat Round 2. TOP Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc around length of joining dc, hdc in same place, *3 hdc in next ch-space; hdc in next sc; repeat from * around, end hdc in last space, slip st in top of beginning ch to join 128 sts. Round 2: Sc2tog, *sc in next st, sc2tog; repeat from * around 85 sts. Rounds 3-5: Sc in each st around. FIRST HANDLE Row 1: Working in back loop only, sc in each of next 4 sts, turn 4 sts. Row 2: Ch 1, working in back loop of previous row and unused loop of row below, sc in each st 4 sts. Repeat Row 2 until 14 or desired length. Fasten off leaving a long tail. Skip next 8 sts. Sew short end of handle to next 4 sts. SECOND HANDLE Skip next 26 sts. Working in back loop only, join with sc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts 4 sts. Work as for First Handle.

Finishing: Weave in ends.

Find more crochet patterns and yarn inspiration at Red Heart Yarn. This lace free crochet pattern helps you to create a stylish top with cap sleeves and a deep V-neck. The simple beginner crochet pattern creates a light and breezy top for warm summer months and the shape is flattering for many. Crochet a lovely tote bag in two complimentary yarn colors with this intermediate bag crochet pattern. The comfortable crochet straps run to the bottom of the tote bag and felt lining completes the project.

Materials: Caron International's Simply Soft Heather (100% Acrylic; 5 oz/141.8 g, 250 yds/228 m skein): 2 skeins MC Caron International's Simply Soft (100% acrylic; 6 oz/170 g, 315 yds/288 m skein): 2 skeins CC. Shown in: #9503 Woodland Heather (MC); #9707 Dk Sage (CC). One size US H-8 (5mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge. Craft felt to match yarn1/2 yd/0.5m (for lining) Yarn needle

Finished Size: Tote measures approximately 14"/35.5 cm wide x 10"/25.5 cm high x 4"/10 cm deep

Gauge: In pattern (Front), with two strands held together, 13 sts and 10 rows = 4"/10cm. In single crochet, with two strands held together, 13 sts and 14 rows = 4"/10cm.

Notes:

Tote is worked holding two strands of yarn together throughout. To change color, work last st of old color to last yarn over; yarn over with new color and draw through all loops on hook to complete st. Do not cut old color; carry colors not in use up side of work.

Instructions:

FRONT With 2 strands of MC held together, chain 47. Row 1 (RS): 2 dc in fifth ch from hook (beginning ch counts as 1 ch of foundation ch and first dc), *skip next ch, 2 dc in next ch; repeat from * across to last 2 ch, skip next ch, dc in last ch, do not turn44 dc. Drop, but do not cut, MC. Row 2 (RS): Join CC with sc in first dc of Row 1 (top of beginning ch), *ch 1, skip next 2 dc, sc in space before next dc (between 2-dc groups); repeat from * across to last 3 dc, ch 1, skip next 2 dc, sc in last dc; change to MC in last sc, turn22 sc, and 21 ch-1 spaces. Drop, but do not cut, CC. Row 3 (WS): With MC, ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), 2 dc in each ch-1 space across, dc in last sc, do not turn. Drop, but do not cut, MC. Row 4 (WS): Pick up CC at opposite end of row by drawing up a loop in the first dc (top of beginning ch), ch 1, sc in same dc, *ch 1, skip next 2 dc, sc in space before next dc (between 2-dc groups); repeat from * across to last 3 dc, ch 1, skip next 2 dc, sc in last dc; change to MC in last sc, turn. Drop, but do not cut, CC. Rows 524: Repeat Rows 3 and 4. Fasten off both MC and CC.

BACK Work as for Front.

BOTTOM With 2 strands of MC held together, chain 33. Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn32 sc. Rows 212: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Note: Work now proceeds in rounds. Round 13: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each remaining st across to last st, 2 sc in last st; pivot to work in ends of rows along side, sc in end of each row along side; pivot to work in free loops on opposite side of foundation ch, 2 sc in first ch, sc in each ch across to last ch, 2 sc in last ch; pivot to work in ends of rows along opposite side, sc in end of each row along side; join with slip st in first st92 sc.

Round 14 (RS): Ch 1, working in front loops only, slip st in each st around. Fasten off.

STRAP (make 2) With 2 strands of CC held together, chain 150. Row 1: Working in back loops only, slip st in second ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn 149 sts. Rows 2 and 3: Ch 1, slip st in each st across, turn. Fasten off.

FINISHING Cut three linings from craft felt, one each for Front, Back and Bottom. The linings should be about 1/4"/0.5 cm smaller than the crochet pieces along all edges. Tack linings into place on WS of pieces, leaving room in stitch work to crochet Front, Back and Bottom together. Note: Bottom lining should be on opposite side from slip st rim (Round 14). Hold WS of Front and Back together. Working through both thicknesses, join CC with slip st in top corner, sc in end of each row along one side. Fasten off. Repeat to join opposite side. Hold joined Front and Back section and Bottom with WS together. Center short ends of Bottom against side seams of Front and Back. Arrange lower edges of Front and Back around edges of Bottom. Working through two thicknesses throughout, join CC with slip st in side seam, work sc evenly spaced around Bottom to join to Front and Back section; join with slip st in first sc. Fasten off. Arrange one Strap on Front. Curve strap in half so that ends are centered along lower edge of Front, spaced about 5"/12.5 cm apart. Arrange remainder of Strap, each half extending straight up to top edge of Front, and curved section forming shoulder loops above top edge. Sew Strap in place. Repeat to attach other Strap to Back. Using yarn needle, weave in ends.

An Autumn Tote
Get ready for the fall season with Bernat Harvest Colors. With this free crochet bag pattern you can make a tote perfect for autumn. Bamboo straight handles are used for the perfect addition to this bag.

MEASUREMENTS: Approx 15 x 12 ins [38 x 30.5 cm]. MATERIALS Bernat Super Value Harvest Colors (197 g / 7 oz) OR Bernat Worsted Harvest Colors (400 g / 14 oz) 1 ball: (Redwood Heather). Size 5 mm (U.S. H or 8) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge. Purchased Bamboo straight handles 12 ins [30.5 cm] long. GAUGE: 14 hdc and 9 rows = 4 ins [10 cm]. STITCH GLOSSARY Dcbp = Yoh and draw up a loop around post of next st at back of work 1 row below inserting hook from right to left. (Yoh and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. Dcfp = Yoh and draw up a loop around post of next st at front of work 1 row below inserting hook from right to left. (Yoh and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. INSTRUCTIONS FRONT and BACK (make alike). Ch 67. Foundation row: (WS). 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook (counts as 2 hdc). 1 hdc in each ch to end of ch. Turn. 66 hdc. 1st row: Ch 2 (counts as hdc). 1 hdc in next hdc. *1 dcfp in each of next 2 sts. 1 hdc in each of next 2 hdc. Rep from * to end of row. Turn. 2nd row: Ch 2 (counts as hdc). 1 hdc in next hdc. *1 dcbp in each of next 2 sts. 1 hdc in each of next 2 hdc. Rep from * to end of row. Turn. Rep last 2 rows until work from beg measures 11 ins [28 cm], ending with a WS row. Next row: (Eyelet row). Ch 2 (counts as hdc). 1 hdc in next hdc. *1 dcfp in each of next 2 sts. Ch 2. Miss next 2 hdc. Rep from * to last 4 sts. 1 dcfp in each of next 2 sts. 1 hdc in each of next 2 hdc. Turn. Next row: Ch 2 (counts as hdc). 1 hdc in next hdc. *1 dcbp in each of next 2 sts. 2 hdc in next ch-2 sp. Rep from * to last 4 sts. 1 dcbp in each of next 2 sts. 1 hdc in each of next 2 hdc. Turn. Next row: Ch 2 (counts as hdc). 1 hdc in next hdc. *1 dcfp in each of next 2 sts. 1 hdc in each of next 2 hdc. Rep from * to end of row. Turn. Next row: Ch 2 (counts as hdc). 1 hdc in each st to end of row. Fasten off. FINISHING: Place markers along side edges of Front and Back pieces, 2 ins [5 cm] down from last row. With WS tog, sew sides and bottom between markers. Straps (make 2). Push straight handles through Eyelets. Cut 66 strands of yarn 35 ins [89 cm] long. Divide into 3 groups 22 strands in each group. Braid 3 groups, leaving both ends 4 ins [10 cm] unworked. With RS of work facing, fold ends of Strap under straight handles to WS. Bring halves of ends tog and taking 2 strands of yarn tog, wrap 1 ins [3 cm] of Handle as close to straight handle as possible (see photo). Fasten ends securely. Rep for other end of Strap.

Please help!! Having trouble understanding how to attach the braided handles to the straight bamboo handle. It says, "(see photo)" however I do not see a photo that I can follow.

A Cute Reusable Crochet Gift bag

This adorable handled gift bag is a quick and easy gift wrapping idea, especially for wine bottles. This reusable bag is eco friendly and creative.

Measurements: Approx 10 1/2" 26.5 cm wide x 15" 38 cm high. Materials: Bernat Handicrafter Cotton Country Colors (Solids 400 g / 14 oz) or yarn of choice 1 ball of #27106 (Country Blue) or color of choice Size 5 mm (U.S. H or 8) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge. Length of 1/2" 1 cm wide grosgrain ribbon. Gauge: 13 dc and 7 rows = 4" [10 cm]. Pattern:

Beg at base, ch 34. 1st rnd: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (counts as 2 dc). 1 dc in each of next 29 ch. 3 dc in last ch. Working into rem loops of foundation ch, work 1 dc in each ch to last ch. 2 dc in last ch. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. 66 dc. 2nd rnd: Ch 3 (counts as dc). 1 dc in each dc around. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. Rep 2nd rnd until work from beg measures 13 ins [33 cm]. Shape handles: Next rnd: Ch 3 (counts as dc). 1 dc in each of next 7 dc. Ch 17. Miss next 17 dc. 1 dc in each of next 16 dc. Ch 17. Miss next 17 dc. 1 dc in each of last 8 dc. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. Next rnd: Ch 3 (counts as dc). 1 dc in each of next 7 dc. 1 dc in each of next 17 ch. 1 dc in each of next 16 dc. 1 dc in each of next 17 ch. 1 dc in each of last 8 dc. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. 66 dc. Next rnd: Ch 3 (counts as dc). 1 dc in each dc around. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. Fasten off. Weave ribbon through rnd as shown in picture.

Holiday tote bag

Do your holiday shopping and carry Christmas gifts in a homemade holiday tote bag. This tote bag crochet pattern is easy to make and a great size for shopping.

Materials: Yarn: Lily Sugarn Cream 420 g / 14.75 oz. Crochet Hook: Size 4 mm (U.S. G/6) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge Optional: cardboard Size: Finished size: Approx 17 x 14 ins [43 x 35.5 cm]. Gauge: 15 sts and 17 rows = 4 ins [10 cm] in pat. Instructions: Front and Back (make alike) Note: Turning ch 2 does not count as st. Ch 53. 1st row: (RS). 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. 1 hdc in each ch to end of ch. Turn. 51 hdc. **2nd row: Ch 3 (counts as dc). 1 dc in each hdc to end of row. Turn. 3rd row: Ch 2. 1 hdc in each dc to end of row. Turn. Last 2 rows form Pat.** Keeping cont of pat, work a further 35 rows. Fasten off. Side / Bottom Panel Ch 18. 1st row: (RS). 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. 1 hdc in each ch to end of ch. Turn. 16 hdc. Rep from ** to ** as given above until work from beg measures 45 ins [114.5 cm]. Fasten off.

Straps: (make 2). Ch 113. 1st row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end of ch. Turn. 2nd to 4th rows: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc to end of row. Turn. Fasten off at end of 4th row. Finishing With WS of Front and Side tog, join yarn with sl st to top left corner. Ch 1. Working through both thicknesses, work 1 row of sc down left side, across bottom and up right side of Bag. Fasten off. Rep for Back. Edging: With RS facing, join yarn with sl st, to top of Bag. 1st and 2nd rnds: Ch 1. 1 sc in same sp as sl st. Work 1 rnd of sc around top of Bag. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off at end of 2nd rnd. Sew Straps to Bag as shown in picture. Optional: Cut a piece of cardboard 5 x 17 ins [12.5 x 43 cm] and place in bottom of Bag.

Shopping bag
Crochet a lightweight and reusable shopping bag for trips to the supermarket or other stores. These bags are comfortable to carry and keep you from wasting plastic bags.

Materials: Yarn: Lily Sugarn Cream (Solids: 70.9 g/2.5 oz/ Ombres: 56.7 g/2 oz) Solids or Ombres 3 balls or Lily Sugarn Cream Super Size (Solids: 113 g/4 oz/ Ombres: 85 g/3 oz) Solids 2 balls or Ombres 3 balls Crochet Hook: Size 4.5 mm (U.S. 7) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge. Size: Bag measures 11 ins [29 cm] wide x 18 ins [45.5 cm] long. Gauge: 14 sc and 14 rows = 4 ins [10 cm]. Instructions: Base: Ch 43. 1st rnd: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end of ch. Do not turn. Working into other side of ch, work 1 sc in each rem loop of ch. Join with sl st to first sc. 84 sc. 2nd rnd: Ch 1. 1 sc in same sc as last sl st. 1 sc in each sc around. Join with sl st to first sc. Rep last rnd 6 times more. Mesh Section: 1st rnd: Ch 1. 1 sc in same sc as last sl st. *Ch 5. Miss next 3 sc. 1 sc in next sc. Rep from * around, ending with ch 2. Miss last 3 sc. 1 dc in first sc. 2nd rnd: *Ch 5. 1 sc in next ch-5 loop. Rep from * around, ending with ch 2. 1 dc in last dc of previous rnd. Rep last rnd until work from base when folded flat measures 12 ins [30.5 cm]. Next rnd: Sl st in next ch 5 loop. Ch 1. 3 sc in same sp. *1 sc in next sc. 3 sc in next ch-5 loop. Rep from * around, ending with 1 sc in last dc. Join with sl st to first sc. 84 sc. Next rnd: Ch 1. 1 sc in same sc as last sl st. 1 sc in each sc around. Join with sl st to first sc. Rep last rnd once more. Fasten off. Strap: Lay bag on a flat surface. Mark centre 12 sts on upper edge of one side. Join yarn with sl st to first of these 12 sts. 1st row: Ch 1. 1 sc in same st as last sl st. 1 sc in each of next 11 sts. Ch 1. Turn. 2nd row: Draw up a loop in each of first 2 sts. Yoh and draw through all loops on hook - sc2tog made. 1 sc in each of next 8 sts. Sc2tog over last 2 sts. Ch 1. Turn. 3rd row: 1 sc in each st across. Ch 1. Turn. 4th row: Sc2tog over first 2 sts. 1 sc in each st to last 2 sts. Sc2tog over last 2 sts. 8 sts. Ch 1. Turn. 5th row: 1 sc in each st across. Ch 1. Turn. Rep last row until strap measures 18 ins [45.5 cm] ending with WS facing for next row. Next row: 2 sc in first sc. 1 sc in each sc to last st. 2 sc in last st. Ch 1. Turn. Next row: 1 sc in each st across. Ch 1. Turn.

Next row: 2 sc in first sc. 1 sc in each sc to last st. 2 sc in last st. 12 sts. Join strap to other side of bag working 1 sl st through corresponding centre 12 sts of bag at same time working sl st through 12 sts of strap. Strap and Upper Edging: With RS of work facing, join yarn with sl st to one side of strap and work 1 rnd sc evenly along strap edge and top edge of Bag. Join with sl st to first sc. Rep around other side of Bag.

Mat and matching tote bag

Crochet a lovely mat for sitting on the ground at the beach or park with a matching tote bag. The tote bag will hold on your beach or park essentials. This beach mat and tote bag crochet pattern is great for summer.

Materials: Yarn: Lily Sugarn Cream Stripes (56.7 g / 2 oz) 21143 (Country Stripes) 16 balls Crochet Hook: Size 4 mm (U.S. G or 6) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge. Size: Approx 17 x 60 ins [43 x 152.5 cm] unfolded. Gauge: 15 sc and 16 rows = 4 ins [10 cm]. Instructions: Note: This yarn is designed to create stripes as you crochet. There are sections of Contrast colors each approx 14 yds [12.5 m] long. FRONT **With 1st ball, starting at beg of contrast 1 section, ch 22. With 2nd ball, starting at beg of contrast 2 section, ch 23. With 3rd ball, starting at beg of contrast 3 section, ch 26. 71 ch. 1st row: (RS). With 3rd ball, 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. 1 hdc in each of next 22 ch. With 2nd ball, 1 hdc in each of next 23 ch. With 1st ball, 1 hdc in each of next 23 ch. Turn. 69 hdc. 2nd row: With 1st ball, ch 3 (counts as dc). 1 dc in each of next 22 hdc. With 2nd ball, 1 dc in each of next 23 hdc. With 3rd ball, 1 dc in each of next 23 hdc. Turn. 3rd row: With 3rd ball, ch 2 (do not count as st). 1 hdc in each of first 23 dc. With 2nd ball, 1 hdc in each of next 23 dc. With 3rd ball, 1 hdc in each of next 23 dc. Turn. Last 2 rows form pat.** Cont working in pat, until work from beg measures 14 ins [35.5 cm], ending with a 2nd row. Fasten off. BACK Work from ** to ** as given for Front. Cont working in pat, until work from beg measures 64 ins [162.5 cm], ending with a 2nd row. Fasten off. Side/Bottom Panel: Ch 18. 1st row: (RS). 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. 1 hdc in each ch to end of ch. Turn. 16 hdc. 2nd row: Ch 3 (counts as dc). 1 dc in each hdc to end of row. Turn. 3rd row: Ch 2 (do not count as st). 1 hdc in each dc to end of row. Turn. Rep last 2 rows until work from beg measures 45 ins [114.5 cm], ending with a 2nd row. Fasten off. Straps: (make 2). Ch 113.

1st row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end of ch. Turn. 2nd to 5th rows: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc to end of row. Turn. Fold Handle in half length-wise and work through both thicknesses, 1 sc in each st to end of row. Fasten off. Finishing Pin pieces to measurements. Cover with a damp cloth, leaving cloth to dry. With WS of Front and Side tog, join yarn with sl st to top left corner. Ch 1. Working through both thicknesses, work 1 row of sc down left side, across bottom and up right side of Bag. Fasten off. Rep for Back, leaving rem fabric free for Mat. Front Edging: With RS facing, join yarn with sl st to top of Front. Ch 1. 1 sc in same sp as sl st. Work 1 row of sc across top of Front. Do not turn. 2nd row: Working from left to right instead of right to left as usual, work 1 reverse sc in each sc to end of row. Fasten off. Sew handle to Front as shown in picture. Roll Mat inside of bag. Sew handle to Back at same position as for Front. This free bag crochet pattern is great to use during the spring and summer. The butterflies and blue color make is so fresh looking. Micro fiber cotton makes it easy to put together.

Materials: Senso Microfiber Cotton (Article 710U) - 1 ball each of the following colors 1101, 1105 1106, 1107 A piece of pink cotton fabric measuring 27-1/2 X 19-1/2 39-1/2 of white satin ribbon 1-3/8 wide Pattern

Crochet Hook Size 3 Finished Size 11-3/4 X 15-3/4

Steps: Bag: Using green yarn, work 104 chain stitches to form a base chain. Work in double crochets until the work measures 2-3/4 from the base chain then switch to white to continue until the work measures 9 overall. Cut the yarn.

Butterflies: Complete 2 butterflies in green, 1 in orange, and 1 in pink, following the chart. Flowers: Complete 2 flowers in orange and 2 in pink, following the chart. Assembly and finishing: Press the bag on the wrong side with a steam iron. Place the sections right sides together and sew the side seams by hand or machine. Work a finishing round of single crochets with white yarn around the top of the bag. Arrange the butterflies on the front of the bag as shown and stitch them in place. Work the flower stems in stem stitch using a single strand of green yarn. Sew on the flowers. Cut 2 19-1/2 lengths of ribbon. Sew on the ribbons to form 2 handles. Cut the lining out to the size of the bag, adding on a 3/8 seam allowance. Sew up the seams. Place the lining inside the bag and stitch it in position. Use this envelope purse free crochet pattern to create a fun and vibrant hand bag adorned with a crochet flower. This envelope purse is easy to construct for crochet beginners.

Materials: six spools Kreinik 1/16 Ribbon in 329 Bahama Blue ( referred to in instructions as yarn B) one skein Patons Katrinia #10120 Ocean Blue, 3 1/2 oz/100g (referred to in instructions as yarn A) size F crochet hook Instructions: Stitches used: Purse sc (single crochet), hdc (half double crochet), sl st (slip stitch) Floral motif sc, hdc, dc (double crochet), sl st Gauge 8 sts = 2 inches, six rows = 2 inches Purse: Holding yarns A & B together, loosely ch 34. Row 1: Turn and hdc in 3rd ch from hook and across row. Ch 2 and turn. Row 2: Hdc across row, ch 2 and turn. Repeat row 2 thirty-two times, until piece measures 12 inches. Cut yarn B and continue using just yarn A in next step. Front flap: using yarn A, work row even in hdc, ch 2 and turn. Row 2: (decrease row) Work across row in hdc, skip last st, ch 2 and turn. Repeat row 2 nine times, (21 sts), end work. Fold purse up to 2nd last row using metallic yarn B, to form bottom of purse with flap at top. Using yarn B, attach at top left side and sc down side to bottom to close side. End work. Repeat for other side. Flap: Using yarn A, attach at R edge on top side of flap and sc around flap, working 2 sts at corners and making sure flap lays flat (about 65 sts). End work. Tuck in all ends.

Handle: Using yarns A & B, attach on RS at left flap edge with sl st, ch 148. (Will make strap about 18 inches long.) Connect to other side of purse next to flap with a sl st. Ch 1 and turn. Row 1: Hdc across strap and sl st to other side. Row 2: Cut off yarn A and continue with yarn B as edging, across row in sc. Sl st to other end of purse. Row 3: With yarn B, sc across row, sl st at end and cut yarn. Tuck in all ends. Flower motif on flap: Using F hook and yarn B, ch 6. Sl st to first ch on hook to form circle. First round: Ch 3, (counts as 1 dc), into ring. Work 1 dc, ch 6, work 3 dc (5 times). Ch 5, sl st to 3rd of 3 ch at beginning of round. Second round: *Ch 1, into next space of 5ch, work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 6 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Ch 1, skip 1 dc, sl st into next dc. Rep from * four times more. Place last sl st into 3rd of 3 ch at beginning of previous round. Fasten off leaving a 6-inch tail. Work ends in toward center of flower and use tails of flower to fasten to purse flap by tacking petals in place on wrong side. Tuck in all ends. Adding decorative button: Pull 2 strands about 6 inches long of yarn B through one (or two) holes in button. Tie large knot in front of button and pull ends through remaining hole (or holes) of button. Tie together on back to secure knot in center of button. Using a crochet hook, pull strands through center of floral motif and anchor on back of flap. Tuck in all ends. Make your own clutch purse to match your favorite outfit with this free crochet pattern. This purse is quick and easy to crochet and the classic design is always in style.

Important to Know Before Felting: Record all the measurements and changes before and after felting. You will be able to adjust the method to produce proper results. Always test a sample. Different colored yarns may felt differently. Colorfastness can be affected by very hot water. Any knit fabric that has been properly felted becomes very dense and matted. How to Felt: Using low water level, run a Hot/Cold cycle for 5 to 15 min. Add a pair of old jeans for agitation. Add 2 tablespoons of baking soda for a small load. After one cycle, check for size. Repeat if necessary. Run through the rinse and dry spin cycle. Do not use a clothes dryer. Lay felted piece onto a dry towel, away from direct heat or sunlight. Shape piece to correct measurements. If an edge ripples, baste a thread through the edge and gather in. Remove the thread after the felting is dry. Measurements:

Approx 10" [25.5 cm] wide x 6" [15 cm] high after felting. Materials: Bernat Felting Wool (75 g / 2.6 oz) or felting wool of your choice. 3 balls of #94420 (English Rose). Size 6.5 mm (U.S. K or 10 1/2) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge. Large button or brooch. Gauge: 10 sc and 12 rows = 4" [10 cm]. Pattern: Ch 63. 1st row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end of ch. Turn. 62 sc. 2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc to end of row. Turn. Rep last row for 10 1/2" [26.5 cm]. Fasten off. Felt pieces following "How to Felt" instructions. Shape piece to measure approx 12" [30.5 cm] by 20" [51 cm] and let dry. Cut piece as shown in diagram. Sew side seams. Fold flap along top fold line and attach button or brooch as shown in picture. Crochet your own bag to go with your favorite outfit using this free crochet pattern. Cute, stylish and practical this backpack is easy to make and is perfect for toting all of your essentials.

Measurements: Approx 10 x 13" [25.5 x 33 cm]. Materials: Bernat Handicrafter Cotton Camo (340 g/12 oz) or yarn of your choice. 2 balls of #33986 (Desert Sand). Size 4 mm (U.S. G or 6) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge. 10 grommets 7/16" [11 mm]. Gauge: 16 sts and 15 rows = 4" [10 cm] in pat. Pattern: BASE Ch 36. 1st row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and every ch to end of ch. Turn. 35 sc.

2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in every sc to end of row. Turn. Rep last row for 4 ins [10 cm], ending with a WS row. Do not fasten off. BODY 1st row: Ch 1. Working in back loops only, 3 sc in first sc (corner). 1 sc in each of next 33 sc. 3 sc in next sc (corner). Work 16 sc evenly along side edge of Base. Working in rem loops of foundation ch: 3 sc in first ch (corner). (1 sc in next sc. 2 sc in next sc) 16 times. 1 sc in next sc. 4 sc in last ch (corner). Work 16 sc evenly along side edge of Base. Do not join in rnd. 127 sc. Turn. 2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first sc. *Ch 1. Miss next sc. 1 sc in next st. Rep from * to end of row. Turn. 3rd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first sc. *1 long sc in next sc 1 row below. 1 sc in next sc. Rep from * to end of row. Turn. 4th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each of first 2 sts. *Ch 1. Miss next sc. 1 sc in next sc. Rep from * to last sc. 1 sc in last sc. Turn. 5th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each of first 2 sc. *1 long sc in next sc 1 row below. 1 sc in next sc. Rep from * to last sc. 1 sc in last sc. Turn. Rep 2nd to 5th rows of Pat for 12 ins [30.5 cm], ending with a 3rd or 5th row of Pat. Next row: (Eyelet row). Ch 1. 1 sc in each of first 7 sts. *Ch 2. Miss next 2 sts. 1 sc in each of next 10 sts. Rep from * to end of row. Turn. Next row: Ch 1. *1 sc in each of next 10 sc. 2 sc in next ch-2 sp. Rep from * to last 7 sc. 1 sc in each of last 7 sc. Turn. Next row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. Sew side seam. Straps (make 2). Ch 80. Foundation row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. *Ch 1. Miss next ch. 1 sc in next ch. Rep from * to end of ch. Turn. 79 sts. Work in Pat as given for Body for 1 1/2" [4 cm], ending with 3rd or 5th row of Pat. Fasten off. FINISHING Apply grommets to eyelets of Eyelet row, following manufacturers instructions. Drawstring: Make a chain 20" [51 cm] long. 1st row: Sl st in 2nd ch from hook. Sl st in each ch to end of ch. Fasten off. Beg at center front weave Drawstring through Eyelet row. Sew one end of Strap to top back of Backpack. Sew other end of Strap to Base Crochet an attractive handbag with cable pattern, which resembles many classic cable knitting patterns. This purse crochet pattern also calls for embroidered stars between the cross-sections of the cables.

Materials: Caron International's Simply Soft Tweed (96% acrylic, 4% rayon; 3 oz/85 g, 150 yds/137 m ball): 1 ball A. Caron International's Simply Soft (100% acrylic; 6 oz/170 g, 315 yds/288 m skein): 1 skein B. Shown in: #0002 Off White (A), #9750 Chocolate (B) One size US H-8 (5mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge. Sewing needle and matching thread 1 set (2 handles) plastic clutch purse handles67"/1518 cm Yarn needle 12 x 27"/30.5 x 68.5 cm piece of fabric (for lining) (optional) Gauge: In pattern stitch, using US H-8 (5mm) hook, 18 sts and 23 rows = 4"/10 cm Terms: FPdc: Front-post double crochet: (RS)Yarn over, insert hook from right-hand side of stitch to WS of piece, return to RS at left-hand side of stitch indicated, yarn over and pull up a loop, complete as dc. FPtr: Front-post treble crochet: (RS)[Yarn over] twice, insert hook from right-hand side of stitch to WS of piece, return to RS at left-hand side of stitch indicated, yarn over and pull up a loop, complete as tr. FPdc2tog: Front-post double crochet 2 together: (RS)[Yarn over, insert hook from right-hand side of next stitch to WS of piece, return to RS at left-hand side of stitch indicated, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through two loops on hook] twice, yarn over and draw through all three loops on hook. sc2tog: Single crochet 2 together Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, (two loops on hook), insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through all three loops on hook. Notes: To create the cables, front-post stitches are worked into the stitches 2 rows below (skipping over the row immediately below), while single crochets are worked into the stitches in the row immediately below (into which stitches are usually worked). When working front-post stitches, always skip the stitches behind the front-post stitches. For example, when working front-post stitches in the next 2 front-post stitches 2 rows below, skip the next 2 stitches in

the row immediately below before proceeding. Working a front-post stitch around another front-post stitch 2 rows below often requires the stitch to be slanted slightly backward (to reach a stitch that is slightly behind the current position) or slightly forward (to reach a stitch that is slightly ahead of the current position). Instructions: FRONT AND BACK (make 2) With A, chain 45. Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn44 sc. Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, sc in next 5 sc, skip next sc, dc in next sc; working in front of last dc made dc in skipped sc, [sc in next 6 sc, skip next sc, dc in next sc, dc in skipped sc] 4 times, sc in last 5 sc, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 4: Ch 1, [sc in next 4 sc; working in dc 2 rows below (Row 2), 2 FPdc around next 2 dc (take care to skip the next 4 sc in the previous row, behind the FPdc)] 5 times, sc in last 4 sc, turn. Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 6: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sc, [FPdc around next 2 FPdc (2 rows below), sc in next 2 sc] 10 times, sc in last sc, turn. Note: From here onwards, all front-post stitches are worked around stitches 2 rows below, rather than in the stitches of the row immediately below. Take care to skip the corresponding number of stitches in the row immediately below (behind the front-post stitches) before working the next single crochet stitches. Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 8: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, [sc in next 4 sc, FPdc around next 4 FPdc 2 rows below] 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in last 2 sc, turn. Row 9: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 10: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, [sc in next 4 sc, skip next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, FPtr around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below; working in front of 2 FPtr just made FPtr around 2 skipped FPdc 2 rows below] 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in last 2 sc, turn. Row 11: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 12: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 2 sc, [FPdc around next 2 FPtr 2 rows below, sc in next 2 sc] 8 times, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in last 3 sc, turn. Row 13: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 14: Ch 1, [sc in next 4 sc, FPdc around next 4 FPdc 2 rows below] 5 times, sc in last 4 sc, turn. Row 15: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 16: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sc, FPdc around next 4 FPdc 2 rows below, [sc in next 4 sc, skip next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, FPtr around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, working in front of 2 FPtr just made FPtr around 2 skipped FPdc 2 rows below] 3 times, sc in next 4 sc, FPdc around next 4 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in last 4 sc, turn. Row 17: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 18: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sc; [working around next 2 front-post sts 2 rows below FPdc2tog] twice; *sc in next 4 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPtr 2 rows below, sc in next 2 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPtr 2 rows below, sc in next 4 sc; [working around next 2 front-post sts 2 rows below FPdc2tog] twice; repeat from * once more, sc in last 5 sc, turn. Row 19: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 20: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sc, skip next FPdc2tog 2 rows below, FPdc around next FPdc2tog 2 rows below, FPdc around skipped FPdc2tog 2 rows below, [sc in next 3 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 4 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 3 sc, skip next FPdc2tog 2 rows below, FPdc around next FPdc2tog 2 rows below, FPdc around skipped FPdc2tog 2 rows below] twice, sc in last 5 sc, turn. Row 21: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 22: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, [sc in next 4 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 2 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 4 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below] twice, sc in last 5 sc, turn. Row 23: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 24: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sc, skip next FPdc 2 rows below, FPdc around next FPdc 2 rows below, FPdc around skipped FPdc 2 rows below, [sc in next 5 sc, FPdc around next 4 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 5 sc, skip next FPdc 2 rows below, FPdc around next FPdc 2 rows below, FPdc around skipped FPdc 2 rows below] twice, sc in last 5 sc, turn. Row 25: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 26: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, *sc in next 6 sc; [working around next 2 front-post sts 2 rows below FPdc2tog] twice, sc in next 6 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below; repeat from * once more, sc in last 5 sc, turn. Row 27: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 28: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sc, 2 FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 6 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc2tog 2 rows below, sc in next 4 sc, FPdc around next FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 2 sc, FPdc around next FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 4 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc2tog 2 rows below, sc in next 6 sc, 2 FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in last 4 sc, turn. Row 29: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 30: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 2 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 6 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 4 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 4 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 6 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 2 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in last 3 sc, turn. Row 31: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 32: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 4 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 6 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 3 sc, skip next FPdc 2 rows below, FPdc around next FPdc 2 rows below, FPdc around skipped FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 3 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 6 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 4 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in last 2 sc, turn. Row 33: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 34: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 2 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 8 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 2 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 2 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 8 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 2 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in last 3 sc, turn. Row 35: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 36: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, FPdc around next 4 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 10 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next sc, skip next FPdc 2 rows below, FPdc around next FPdc 2 rows below, FPdc around skipped FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 10 sc, FPdc around next 4 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog, turn42 sts. Row 37: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 38: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next sc, skip next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, FPtr around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, FPtr around 2 skipped FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 11 sc, FPdc around next 6 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 11 sc, skip next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, FPtr around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, FPtr around 2 skipped FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next sc, sc2tog, turn40 sc. Row 39: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 40: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next sc, [working around next 2 front-post sts 2 rows below FPdc2tog] twice, sc in next 13 sc, FPdc around next FPdc 2 rows below, [working around next 2 front-post sts 2 rows below FPdc2tog] twice, FPdc around next FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 13 sc, [working around next 2 front-post sts 2 rows below FPdc2tog] twice, sc in next sc, sc2tog, turn 38 sc. Row 41: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 42: Ch 1, sc2tog, skip next FPdc2tog 2 rows below, FPdc around next FPdc2tog 2 rows below, FPdc around skipped FPdc2tog 2 rows below, sc in next 14 sc, [working around next 2 front-post sts 2 rows below FPdc2tog (take care, one of the 2 front-post sts 2 rows below is an FPdc2tog)] twice, sc in next 14 sc,

skip next FPdc2tog 2 rows below, FPdc around next FPdc2tog 2 rows below, FPdc in skipped FPdc2tog 2 rows below, sc2tog, turn36 sts. Row 43: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 44: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 15 sc, skip next FPdc2tog 2 rows below, FPdc around next FPdc2tog 2 rows below, FPdc around skipped FPdc2tog 2 rows below, sc in next 15 sc, sc2tog, turn 34 sts. Row 45: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 46: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 30 sc, sc2tog32 sts. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. BASE With B, chain 43. Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn42 sc. Rows 28: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. Row 9: Ch 1, 3 sc in first sc, sc in each sc across to last sc, 3 sc in last sc; pivot to work in ends of rows along side, work 6 sc evenly spaced along side; pivot to work along opposite side of foundation ch, 3 sc in first ch, sc in each ch across to last ch, 3 sc in last ch; pivot to work in ends of rows along side, work 6 sc evenly spaced along side; join with slip st in first sc104 sc. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. SIDE (make 2) With B, chain 11. Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn10 sc. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sc, skip next sc, dc in next sc, dc in skipped sc, sc in next 4 sc, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 4: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sc, 2 FPdc around next 2 dc 2 rows below, sc in last 3 sc, turn. Row 5: Ch 1, scin each st across, turn. Row 6: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 2 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in last 2 sc, turn. Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 8: Ch 1, sc in next sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 4 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in last sc, turn. Row 9: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 10: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in next 2 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in last 2 sc, turn. Row 11: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 12: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sc, FPdc around next 4 FPdc 2 rows below, sc in last 3 sc, turn. Row 13: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 14: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sc, skip next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, FPtr around next 2 FPdc 2 rows below, FPtr around 2 skipped FPdc 2 rows below, sc in last 3 sc, turn. Row 15: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 16: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPtr 2 rows below, sc in next 2 sc, FPdc around next 2 FPtr 2 rows below, sc in last 2 sc, turn. Rows 1736: Repeat Rows 716. Rows 3744: Repeat Rows 714. Rows 45 and 46: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. FINISHING Using yarn needle, weave in all ends. Fabric Lining (optional) Trace the purse pieces onto fabric and cut out, leaving a 1/2"/1 cm seam allowance around all edges. Sew front and back pieces to bottom piece. Sew side pieces to bottom, front and back pieces. Assembly Sew front and back to bottom of purse. Sew sides of purse to bottom, front and back. Insert lining into bag and sew lining to upper inside edge and tack to inside seams of purse. With B, embroider stars on front of purse, in between crossing sections of cables, as shown in photograph.

Handles Thread 2 strands of A or B (whichever is appropriate for handles) onto needle and sew handles centered on upper edge of bag.

Summer Tote
Carry it all in your easy and breezy crochet summer tote. Just follow these easy steps in this free crochet pattern.

Finished Size: Approx 18" x 17" [45.5 x 43 cm]. Materials: Lily Sugar'n Cream Naturals Solids (400 g / 14 oz) 1 ball: #27003 (Off White) OR Ombres / Prints (340 g / 12 oz) 2 balls: #33013 (Chocolate Ombre) or #33018 (Sonoma Print) Size 4 mm (U.S. G or 6) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge. 3 1/4 yds [3 m] of cord [9.5 mm] in diameter. Gauge: 15 hdc and 11 rows = 4" [10 cm]. Steps: Body (make 1 piece). Note: Turning ch 2 does not count as stitch. Ch 77. 1st row: (RS). 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. 1 hdc in each ch to end of ch. Turn. 75 hdc. 2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each hdc to end of row. Turn. 3rd row: Ch 2. 1 hdc in each sc to end of row. Turn. Rep last 2 rows until work from beg measures 36 ins [91.5 cm], ending with a 3rd row. Fasten off. Finishing: Fold side edges 1 inch [2.5 cm] to WS for casing and sew in position (see Diagram). Thread cord through casing as shown in diagram. Fold Bag in half, having WS of front and back tog. Sew side seams leaving casing free. Pull cord to gather casing. Knot ends.

Tote bag
Crochet your own tote bag to go with any outfit with this free pattern. This quick and easy bag is both adorable and practical because it is strong, durable, and large enough to hold all of your essentials.

Measurements: 12" [30.5 cm] wide x 15" [38 cm] high x 12" [30.5 cm] deep. Materials: Bernat Handicrafter Cotton or yarn of your choice. 22 balls of #00002 (Off White). Size 4 mm (U.S. G or 6) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge. Gauge: 13 1/2 sc and 16 rows = 4" [10 cm] with 2 strands of yarn. Pattern: Note: Bag is worked with 2 strands of yarn tog throughout. FRONT and BACK Panels (make 2): With 2 strands of yarn tog, ch 41. 1st row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end of ch. Turn. 40 sc. 2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc across. Turn. Rep last row until work from beg measures 15 ins [38 cm], ending with a WS row. Fasten off. Side Panels (make 2). Work from to as given for Front and Back Panels. Rep last row until work from beg measures 14" [35.5 cm], ending with a WS row. Next row: (RS). Ch 1. 1 sc in each of first 11 sc. Ch 4. Miss next 4 sc. 1 sc in each of next 10 sc. Ch 4. Miss next 4 sc. 1 sc in each sc to end of row.

Turn. Next row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each of first 11 sc. 4 sc in next ch-4 sp. 1 sc in each of next 10 sc. 4 sc in next ch-4 sp. 1 sc in each sc to end of row. Turn. Work a further 2 rows in sc. Fasten off. Join Panels: Arrange Panels to form a box, having Side Panels opposite each other. With WS of 2 Panels tog, join 2 strands of yarn with sl st at top left corner. Ch 1. Working through both thicknesses, work 1 row of sc evenly along side edge. Fasten off. Rep for rem Panels. Base: Work from to as given for Front and Back Panels. Rep last row until work from beg measures 12 ins [30.5 cm], ending with a WS row. Do not fasten off. Join Base to Panels: With RS of Base facing, place lower edge of joined Panels behind Base with WS of work tog, aligning corners of Base with joining rows of Panels. Next rnd: Ch 1. Working through both thicknesses, work 1 rnd of sc evenly around all 4 sides of Base. Join with sl st in first sc. Fasten off. Top edging: With RS of work facing, join 2 strands of yarn with sl st to any corner of top edge. Ch 1. Working from left to right instead of right to left as usual, work 1 rnd of reverse sc evenly around top edge. Join with sl st in first sc. Fasten off. Handles (make 2): With 2 strands of yarn, ch 95 loosely. 1st row: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each sc across. Turn. 94 sc. 2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc across. Turn. Rep last row once more. Fasten off. With RS of Basket facing, push ends of Handle through slits on Side Panel to WS. Sew ends tog. Bring halves of Handle tog and taking 2 strands of yarn tog, wrap center 4" [10 cm] of Handle as shown in picture. Fasten ends securely.

Beach Bag Crochet Pattern

COATS and CLARKS O.N.T. Speed-Cro-Sheen MERCERIZED COTTON, Art. C.44: 3 balls of No. 126 Spanish Red and 1 ball of No. 10-A Canary Yellow. Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 2/0. Red plastic plate 9? inches in diameter . . . Corks. BOTTOM . . . Starting at center with Spanish Red, ch 2. 1st rnd: 7 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 2nd rnd: 2 sc in each sc around. 3rd rnd: * Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (1 sc increased). Repeat from * around. 4th rnd: Sc in each sc around, increasing 7 sc evenly around. Repeat 4th rnd until piece measures 9? inches in diameter. Place a marker. Next rnd: Working in back loop only, sc in each sc around. Following rnd: Sc in each sc around, decreasing 7 sc evenly aroundto dec 1 sc, work off 2 sc as 1 sc. Repeat last rnd 3 more times. Now make beading as follows: Sc in next sc, * ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next sc. Repeat from * around. Join and break off. SIDE PIECE 1st rnd: Fold piece at marker and, working through both thicknesses, make sc in each sc around. Join. 2nd rnd: Sc in same place as sl st, * pull loop on hook out to measure ? inch, thread over and draw loop through, insert hook between single and double loops and draw a loop through, thread over and draw through 2 loops on hook (knot st made); make another knot st, skip next 4 sc, sc in next sc. Repeat from * around, ending with sl st in first sc. 3rd rnd: Pull loop on hook out to measure same height as first knot st, sc in knot at center of first knot st loop, sc under double loop of next knot st to the left of same knot, * make 2 knot sts, sc under double loop of next knot st to the right of knot, sc under double loop of next knot st to the left of same knot. Repeat from * around. Join to first st. Repeat 3rd rnd until Side Piece measures 13 inches. Break off. Insert plate in bottom. To anchor plate securely, with Red make a chain 36 inches long for a tie, lace through beading on last rnd of bottom and tie in a bow. CORD (Make 2) Cut 8 strands of Canary Yellow, each 3 yards long. Twist these strands tightly. Now double these strands and twist in opposite direction. Lace Cords through last rnd of Side Piece. Knot free ends. Tie corks at ends of cords.

Red white and blue tote

Create a tote with ripples of red, white and blue. This is a great crochet bag pattern for beach trips or picnics. You can also use other colors if you prefer to create this ripple bag.

Materials: Yarn: Lily Sugarn Cream (Solids 70.9 g/2.5 oz/109 m/120 yds) Contrast A (00001 White) 6 balls Contrast B (00095 Red) 5 balls Contrast C (00028 Delft Blue) 6 balls or Lily Sugarn Cream (Ombres 56.7 g/2 oz/86 m/95 yds) Contrast A 7 balls Contrast B 6 balls Contrast C 7 balls Yarn: Size 5 mm (U.S.H or 8) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge. Size: 15 ins [38 cm] wide x 8 ins [20.5 cm] deep x 16 ins [40.5 cm] high. Gauge: 12 dc and 6 rows using 2 strands of yarn tog = 4 ins [10 cm]. Instructions: Note: To change color, work to last 2 loops on hook. Draw loop of next color through 2 loops on hook to complete st and proceed in next color. Stripe Pat With A, work 2 rows. With B, work 2 rows. With A, work 2 rows. With C, work 2 rows. These 8 rows form Stripe Pat. FRONT and BACK PANELS (Make 2) With 2 strands of C held tog, ch 49. **1st row: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each of next 3 ch. *1 hdc in next ch. 1 dc in each of next 2 ch. 1 hdc in next ch. 1 sc in each of next 8 ch. Rep from * to last 8 ch. 1 hdc in next ch. 1 dc in each of next 2 ch. 1 hdc in next ch. 1 sc in each of next 4 ch. Turn. 2nd row: Ch 3. 1 dc in first sc (counts as 2 dc). *1 dc in each of next 3 sc. (Yoh and draw up a loop in next st. Yoh and draw a loop through 2 loops on hook) twice. Yoh and draw through all loops on hook - Dc2tog made. Dc2tog over next 2 sts. 1 dc in each of next 3 sc. (2 dc in next sc) twice. Rep from *, ending with: 2 dc in next sc. Join A. Turn.

3rd row: With A, ch 1. 2 sc in first dc. *1 sc in each of next 3 dc. Draw up a loop in each of next 2 sts. Yoh and draw through all loops on hook - Sc2tog made. Sc2tog over next 2 sts. 1 sc in each of next 3 dc. (2 sc in next dc) twice. Rep from *, ending with 2 sc in top of turning ch. Turn.** First 3 rows of Stripe Pat are completed. Keeping cont of Stripe Pat, rep last 2 rows until work from beg measures approx 14 ins [35.5 cm], ending with 2 rows of B. Next row: With A, ch 1. 2 sc in first dc. *1 sc in each of next 3 dc. (Sc2tog over next 2 sts) twice. 1 sc in each of next 3 dc. Ch 4. Miss next 2 dc. 1 sc in each of next 3 dc. (Sc2tog over next 2 sts) twice. 1 sc in each of next 3 dc.* 2 sc in each of next 2 dc. Rep from * to * once more. 2 sc in top of turning ch. Turn. Next row: Ch 3. 1 dc in first sc (counts as 2 dc). *1 dc in each of next 3 sc. (Dc2tog over next 2 sts) twice. 1 dc in each of next 2 sts. 6 dc in next ch-4 sp. 1 dc in each of next 2 sts. (Dc2tog over next 2 sts) twice. 1 dc in each of next 3 sc. *2 dc in each of next 2 sc. Rep from * to * once more. 2 dc in last sc. Join C. Turn. Work a further 2 rows in pat. Fasten off. Side Panels (Make 2). With 2 strands of C tog, ch 37. Work from ** to ** as given for Front and Back Panels. Cont in Stripe Pat until work from beg measures 16 ins [40.5 cm]. Fasten off. Join Panels: Arrange Panels to form a rectangle, having Side Panels opposite each other. With WS of 2 Panels tog, join 2 strands of B with sl st to top left corner. Ch 1. Working through both thicknesses, work 1 row of sc evenly along side edge. Fasten off. Rep for rem Panels. Base: With 2 strands of C, ch 49. 1st row: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end of ch. Turn. 48 sc. 2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc across. Turn. Rep last row until work from beg measures 12 ins [30.5 cm], ending with a WS row. Do not fasten off. Join Base to Panels: With RS of Base facing, place lower edge of joined Panels behind Base with WS of work tog, aligning corners of Base with joining rows of Panels. Next rnd: Ch 1. Working through both thicknesses, work 1 rnd of sc evenly around all 4 sides of Base. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. Top edging: With RS of work facing, join 2 strands of B with sl st to any corner of top edge. Ch 1. Working from left to right instead of right to left as usual, work 1 rnd of reverse sc evenly around top edge. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. Handles (Make 2). With 2 strands of B, ch 95 loosely. 1st row: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end of ch. Turn. 94 sc. 2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc to end of row. Turn. Rep last row once more. Fasten off. With RS of Tote facing, push ends of Handle through slits of Front Panel to WS. Sew ends tog. Bring halves of Handle tog and taking 2 strands of A tog, wrap center 4 ins [10 cm] of Handle as shown in picture. Fasten ends securely. Rep for Back Panel.

Eco-friendly market bag

Crochet an eco-friendly bag to carry fresh produce from the farmer's market, daily essentials or to tote your refillable water bottle, to avoid buying plastic bottles. This is a quick and easy bag crochet pattern in ecofriendly cotton yarn.

Materials: Yarn: RED HEART Eco-Cotton Blend: 2 skeins 1370 Candy Marl. Crochet Hook: 5mm [US H-8] Yarn needle Elastic pony tail band Gauge: Rounds 1-5 of Base = 6. Size: Bag diameter measures 10 x 12 tall. Instructions: POUCH Round 1: Make a slip knot, working around elastic band, work 48 sc around band, slip st to first st in join 48 sts. Round 2: Ch 3, dc in each st around, slip st in first st to join 48 sts. Round 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, slip st to first st in join 72 sts. Round 4: Ch 3, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, slip st in first st to join 96 sts. Fasten off. BASE Ch 8, slip st in first st to form a ring. Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), 23 dc in ring, slip st in first st to join 24 sts. Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same space, [2 dc in each st] around, slip st in first st to join 48 sts. Round 3: Ch 3, dc in each st around, slip st in first st to join.

Round 4: Ch 3, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, slip st in first st to join 72 sts. Round 5: Ch 3, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around, slip st in first st to join 96 sts. Round 6: With right sides together, join Base and Pouch, matching sts and working through both thicknesses, ch 1, sc in each st around, slip st in first st to join 96 sts. Rounds 7-9: Ch 3, dc in each st around, slip st in first st to join 96 sts. Round 10: Ch 1, sc in same st at joining, *ch 5, skip next 3 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * around to last 3 sts, ch 2, dc in first sc forming last loop 24 loops. Rounds 11-25: Ch 1, sc in loop just formed, *ch 5, sc in next loop; repeat from * around to last loop, ch 2, dc in first sc to form last loop. Round 26: Ch 1, 3 sc in loop just formed, 5 sc in each loop around to first loop, 2 sc in loop, slip st in first st to join. Fasten off. FINISHIING Strap Ch 201, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Fasten off. Weave through loops of Round 25. Sew ends together. Weave in ends. Fold Bag inside Pouch.

For more yarn inspiration, visit Red Heart Yarn.

Rectangular bag for daily errands

Crochet a handy rectangular bag with easy knotted handles for daily errands. The stripes in this bag are created by self-striping yarn instead of having to switch yarn balls.

Materials: Yarn: Lily Sugarn Cream Stripes (56.7 g / 2 oz) 4 balls of #21532 (Holiday Stripes). Crochet Hook: Size 5 mm (U.S. H / 8) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.4 grommets. Size: 9 x 12 x 3 ins [23 x 30.5 x 9 cm] Gauge: 13 sc and 14 rows = 4 ins [10 cm]. Instructions: Front and Back (make alike). Ch 27. 1st row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch to end of ch. Turn. 26 sc. Work in sc for 11 ins [28 cm]. Next row: (Eyelet row). Ch 1. (1 sc in each of next 6 sc. Ch 1. Miss next sc. 1 sc in each of next 6 sc) twice. Turn. Work 2 rows in sc. Fasten off. Apply grommets in eyelets. Gusset: Ch 12. 1st row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end of ch. Turn. 11 sc. Work in sc for 33 ins [84 cm]. Fasten off. With WS tog, crochet Gusset to sides and bottom of Front and Back. Handles: Ch 5. Join with sl st in first ch. 1st rnd: (RS). Ch 1. 1 sc in each ch around. 5 sc. Place marker for end of rnd and slip marker every rnd. Work in sc for 16 ins [40.5 cm]. Fasten off. Thread handles through grommets and knot ends. Make a handy drawstring bag for spring with this easy crochet pattern. Adorned with blooming flowers or left plain, this fun bag has a simple construction with beaded ties.

Materials: Yarn: Lily Sugarn Cream 4-ply Worsted Weight, 2.5 oz (solids) or 2 oz (ombres), 2 balls Crochet hook: Size 4.50 mm (U.S. H or 7) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge Two large beads Size: Approx 9 ins [23 cm] high Gauge: 13 sts and 7 rows = 4 ins [10 cm] in pat Pattern Stitches Front Post Double Crochet: (Fpdc) Yoh and draw up a loop from front to back around post of next dc. Draw up a loop. (Yoh and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. Fpdc made. Flower: (Fpdc. Ch 3) around next dc. (Fpdc. Ch 3) 5 times around same dc. Turn piece upside down. (Fpdc. Ch 3) 5 times around previous dc on same row. 1 dc around same post. Flower made. Instructions Bag: Ch 4. Join with sl st to form ring. Ch 1. 1st rnd: 8 sc in ring. Sl st in first sc. Ch 1. 2nd rnd: 2 sc in each sc to end. Sl st in first sc. 16 sts. Ch 1. 3rd rnd: *1 sc in next sc. 2 sc in each of next 2 sc. Rep from * to last sc. 1 sc in last sc. Sl st in first sc. 26 sts. Ch 1. 4th rnd: *1 sc in each of next 2 sc. 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * to last 2 sc. 1 sc in each of last 2 sc. Sl st in first sc. 34 sts. Ch 1. 5th rnd: *1 sc in each of next 3 sc. 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * to last 2 sc. 1 sc in each of last 2 sc. Sl st in first sc. 42 sts. Ch 1. 6th rnd: *1 sc in each of next 4 sc. 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * to last 2 sc. 1 sc in each of last 2 sc. Sl st in first sc. 50 sts. Ch 1. 7th rnd: *1 sc in each of next 5 sc. 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * to last 2 sc. 1 sc in each of last 2 sc. Sl st in first sc. 58 sts. Ch 1. 8th rnd: *1 sc in each of next 6 sc. 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * to last 2 sc. 1 sc in each of last 2 sc. Sl st in first sc. 66 sts. Ch 1. 9th rnd: *1 sc in each of next 10 sc. 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * to last 2 sc. 1 sc in each of last 2 sc. Sl st in

first sc. 72 sts. Ch 1. 10th rnd: 1 sc in back loop of each sc around. Sl st in first sc. Ch 3. 11th rnd: Miss first st. 1 dc in each st around. Sl st in top of ch-3. Ch 3. 12th to 15th rnds: Rep 11th rnd. 16th rnd: Miss first st. 1 dc in each of next 3 dc. Make Flower (see Pattern Stitches). 1 dc behind same dc as beg of Flower. *1 dc in each of next 11 dc. Make Flower. 1 dc behind same post as beg of Flower. Rep from * to last 8 sts. 1 dc in each of last 8 dc. Sl st in top of ch-3. Ch 3. 17th rnd: Miss first st. 1 dc in each of next 3 dc. Miss Flower. *1 dc in each of next 12 dc. Miss Flower. Rep from * to last 8 sts. 1 dc in each of last 8 sts. Sl st in top of ch-3. 72 sts. Ch 3. 18th and 19th rnds: Rep 11th rnd. 20th rnd: Miss first st. 1 dc in each of next 7 dc. Make Flower. *1 dc behind same dc as beg of Flower and in each of next 11 dc. Make Flower. Rep from * to last 4 sts. 1 dc in each of last 4 sts. Sl st in top of ch-3. Ch 3. 21st rnd: Miss first st. 1 dc in each of next 7 dc. Miss Flower. *1 dc in each of next 12 dc. Miss Flower. Rep from * to last 4 sts. 1 dc in each of last 4 sts. 72 sts. Sl st in top of ch-3. Ch 3. 22nd and 23rd rnds: Rep 11th rnd. 24th rnd: Miss first st. 1 dc in each of next 2 dc. *Ch 1. Miss next dc. 1 dc in each of next 3 dc. Rep from * to last dc. Ch 1. Sl st to top of ch-3. Ch 3. 25th rnd: Miss first st. 1 dc in each dc and ch 1 around. Sl st in top of ch-3. Ch 3. 26th rnd: Miss first st. 1 dc in each dc around. Sl st in top of ch-3. Ch 1. 27th rnd: 1 sc in each dc around. Sl st in first sc. Fasten off. Finishing: Ch 120. Fasten off. One drawstring made. Rep for second drawstring. Thread drawstrings through eyelets in bag, having one extend out of the left side of the bag and one extend out of the right side. Add large bead and knot drawstring ends.

Camouflage Crochet Backpack

Crochet your own bag to go with your favorite outfit using this free crochet pattern. Cute, stylish and practical this backpack is easy to make and is perfect for toting all of your essentials.

Measurements: Approx 10 x 13" [25.5 x 33 cm]. Materials: Bernat Handicrafter Cotton Camo (340 g/12 oz) or yarn of your choice. 2 balls of #33986 (Desert Sand). Size 4 mm (U.S. G or 6) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge. 10 grommets 7/16" [11 mm]. Gauge: 16 sts and 15 rows = 4" [10 cm] in pat. Pattern: BASE Ch 36. 1st row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and every ch to end of ch. Turn. 35 sc. 2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in every sc to end of row. Turn. Rep last row for 4 ins [10 cm], ending with a WS row. Do not fasten off. BODY 1st row: Ch 1. Working in back loops only, 3 sc in first sc (corner). 1 sc in each of next 33 sc. 3 sc in next sc (corner). Work 16 sc evenly along side edge of Base. Working in rem loops of foundation ch: 3 sc in first ch (corner). (1 sc in next sc. 2 sc in next sc) 16 times. 1 sc in next sc. 4 sc in last ch (corner). Work 16 sc evenly along side edge of Base. Do not join in rnd. 127 sc. Turn. 2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first sc. *Ch 1. Miss next sc. 1 sc in next st. Rep from * to end of row. Turn. 3rd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first sc. *1 long sc in next sc 1 row below. 1 sc in next sc. Rep from * to end of row. Turn. 4th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each of first 2 sts. *Ch 1. Miss next sc. 1 sc in next sc. Rep from * to last sc. 1 sc in last sc. Turn. 5th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each of first 2 sc. *1 long sc in next sc 1 row below. 1 sc in next sc. Rep from * to last sc. 1 sc in last sc. Turn. Rep 2nd to 5th rows of Pat for 12 ins [30.5 cm], ending with a 3rd or 5th row of Pat. Next row: (Eyelet row). Ch 1. 1 sc in each of first 7 sts. *Ch 2. Miss next 2 sts. 1 sc in each of next 10 sts. Rep from * to end of row. Turn.

Next row: Ch 1. *1 sc in each of next 10 sc. 2 sc in next ch-2 sp. Rep from * to last 7 sc. 1 sc in each of last 7 sc. Turn. Next row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. Sew side seam. Straps (make 2). Ch 80. Foundation row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. *Ch 1. Miss next ch. 1 sc in next ch. Rep from * to end of ch. Turn. 79 sts. Work in Pat as given for Body for 1 1/2" [4 cm], ending with 3rd or 5th row of Pat. Fasten off. FINISHING Apply grommets to eyelets of Eyelet row, following manufacturers instructions. Drawstring: Make a chain 20" [51 cm] long. 1st row: Sl st in 2nd ch from hook. Sl st in each ch to end of ch. Fasten off. Beg at center front weave Drawstring through Eyelet row. Sew one end of Strap to top back of Backpack. Sew other end of Strap to Base

Q: I needed help reading the pattern. I do not know what (rs) stands for. The "long" sc stitch this pattern refers to is actually a "spike" stitch, in which you crochet into the stitch two or more rows below the working row. That would normally be indicated by SP-2 for 2 rows in this instance, or SP-4 for 4 rows below, etc. Also when it says "Miss next sc," it would read more accurately to say skip next sc, or sk next sc. I couldn't find the 7/8" grommets, so bought some labeled 3/8" and some labeled 1/4" at Jo-Ann Fabric and Crafts and then reduced the grommet opening to only 1 chain instead of 2, which means you have to adjust the stitch numbers between the grommet openings by one stitch. I ended up chaining 140 to lengthen the tie on it and tied a knot in one end before weaving it through the grommets and tied a knot in the other end after weaving it through. I also found it worked better if I made sure to stitch the top of the straps just to the outside of the first and fourth grommets on the back side (the 5th and 10th should be at the center of the ends when layed flat). It was hard with the first one to know exactly where to stitch them in place. You want to make sure the finished edge ends up matching on both straps, either on the outside or the inside but the same on each. This bag is quite sturdy, as are the straps because of the reinforcement from the spike stitches. I am confused on the instructions to sew side seam. Is there only one seam or two? I'm not sure if I'm reading the pattern correctly or not? It looks more rectangular than oval. Can you let me know? Q: Do you use 2 strands of yarn when you are crocheting the backpack. Why do you need 2 different colors of yarn? A: the Bernat Handicrafter Cotton Camo is the brand of yarn, Desert Sand is the color. They have more than one color of camo. Hope this helps.

Striped Tote Bag Stars and Stripes Bag Rose Cosmetics Case Ruffle Purse Water Bottle Bag Everyday Market Bag

Student bag
This crochet pattern is a great project for anyone to do. It holds books of many sizes. This is great for those students going back to school, young or old. It's a great pattern you will get complemented on. Find this crochet pattern in the 25 Quick and Thrifty Crochet Patterns eBook.

Materials: Crochet hook size G-6 (4mm) Yarn, any worsted weight (double knit) yarn, preferably cotton. Approx 100g Instructions: Form a basic granny square (make 2) (Chain 6 stitches.join to form loop) Rnd 1:Chain 3, dc twice into loop, (ch 1 , 3 dc into loop)3 times. Join to top of first chain 3 with sl st (do not turn at end of this or any round) Rnd 2: chain 4, (3dc 1ch 3dc 1ch in next chain space)3 times. In next chain space: 3dc 1ch 2dc, join to third chain at beginning of round) Rnd 3: chain3 2dc in space. Ch 1. (3dc 1ch 3 dc in next space, 1 ch 3 dc in next space, 1 ch) 3 times, 3 dc 1ch 3dc in next space, 1 ch, sl stitch to top of 3 chain at beginning of round. Continue to form a granny square with 7 rounds.) On one edge of each square dc 29 stitches, turn, chain 3 dc 29 stitches across. Continue until you have 5 dc rows, then sc two rows. Place the two rectangles, wrong sides together, and join with sc along 3 edges, then go back along this sc with reverse sc also known as crab(or rope) stitch. Pick up 7 stitches at side (where join is), and SC for approx 130 rows, or until strap is desired length. (remembering to allow for stretching), then attach to opposite side.

Mesh Market Bag

Designed By: Kim Kotary Supplies: RED HEART LusterSheen: 2 skeins 824 Medium Blue. Crochet Hook: 3.75mm [US F-5]. Yarn needle. Size: Bag measures 14" x 14". Gauge/Tension: GAUGE: 21 sts = 4; 10 rows = 4 in dc. NOTES: Gauge is not crucial for this project but will affect the finished size. The Front and Back are worked corner to corner in filet crochet turned on the bias. Leave long tails to use for finishing. BAG Front and Back (Make 2) Increase Rows Row 1 (Right Side): Ch 9, dc in first ch to make a square; turn. Row 2: Ch 7, dc in dc, ch 2, skip 2 ch, (dc, ch 2, dtr) all in next ch; turn 3 squares. Rows 3-23: Ch 7, dc in dtr, * ch 2, dc in next dc; repeat from * to last ch-space; ch 2, skip next 2 ch, (dc, ch 2, dtr) all in last ch; turn 45 squares at end of Row 23. Decrease Rows Row 24: Ch 1, slip st in dtr and next 2 ch and dc, ch 5, dc in next dc, * ch 2, dc in next dc; repeat from * to last dc; dtr in last dc; turn 43 squares. Rows 25-42: Ch 5, skip first dc, dc in next dc, * ch 2, dc in next dc; repeat from * to last dc; dtr in last dc; turn. Row 43: Ch 5, skip first dc, dc in next dc; do NOT turn 1 square. Edging Rnd: Ch 3, 2 dc around post of last dc, work 3 dc in each space around and work 9 dc in next 3 corners and 6 more dc in last corner; join with a slip st in top of ch-3. Fasten off. Sides and Bottom (Make 1) Row 1 (Right Side): Ch 35; dc in 4th ch from hook and each ch across; turn 33 sts. Row 2: Ch 3, skip first dc, dc in next dc and in each dc across, dc in top of ch-3; turn. Repeat Row 2 until 42 from beginning. Fasten off. Finishing With wrong sides together, pin the Side and Bottom strip to 3 sides of bag Front. Attach yarn at top of strip; ch 1, working through both layers, sc around the 3 sides of the bag, taking care to keep work flat by working extra sts in the lower corners. Fasten off. Repeat for the back. Handles Attach yarn 1 in from seam on top edge of Front of the bag. Row 1: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, skip 2 dc, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) all in next dc, skip 2 dc, sc in next dc; turn. Row 2: Ch 3, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) all in ch-2 space, dc in next sc; turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) all in ch-2 space, dc in top of ch-3; turn. Repeat Row 2 about 33 more times or to desired length of handle. Join Top of Handle: Hold last row of handle at top of bag 1 in from opposite seam of Front, taking care that handle is not twisted; ch 3, slip st in next 3 dc of bag, sc through ch-2 space of handle and next dc of bag together, slip st in next 3 dc of bag, dc in top of ch-3 of handle. Fasten off. Repeat on Back for other handle. Weave in ends. RED HEART LusterSheen Art E721 available in sold and multi 4 oz (113 g), 335 yd (306 m) skeins. ABBREVIATIONS: ch = chain; dc = double crochet; dtr = double treble crochet; mm = millimeters; rnd = round; sc = single crochet; st(s) = stitch(es); * = repeat whatever follows the * as indicated.

Grocery bag
Look stylish while you tote around your groceries or pack away the essentials for a group picnic. This crochet bag is easy to make and perfect for the everyday person on the go.

MATERIALS Bernat Handicrafter Cotton (50 g/1.75 oz; 73 m/80 yds) 13712 (Hot Green) 4 balls Crochet Hook: size 5 mm (U.S. H or 8) or size needed to obtain gauge. MEASUREMENTS Approx 20 ins [51 cm] long excluding handles. GAUGE 13 sc and 14 rows = 4 ins [10 cm]. INSTRUCTIONS Body: Ch 39. 1st row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end of ch. 38 sc. Turn. 2nd to 4th rows: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc to end of row. Turn. Proceed in pat as follows: 1st row: Ch 7 (counts as tr and ch 3). (Yoh) twice. Draw up a loop in next st. (Yoh and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. Yoh and draw through all 3 loops on hook counts as tr2tog *Ch 5. [(Yoh) twice. Draw up a loop in next st. (Yoh and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice] twice. Yoh and draw through all 3 loops on hook tr2tog made. Rep from * to last sc. Ch 3. 1 tr in last sc. Turn. 2nd row: Ch 5 (counts as tr and ch 1). Miss next 3 ch. Tr in next st. *Ch 5. (Yoh) twice. Draw up a loop in same st as before. (Yoh and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. Miss next 5-ch sp. (Yoh) twice. Draw up a loop in next st. (Yoh and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. Yoh and draw through all 3 loops on hook tr2tog over 2 sts made. Rep from * to last tr. Tr2tog over last st worked and next tr. Turn. 3rd row: Ch 7 (counts as tr and ch 3). Tr2tog over first st and next tr2tog. *Ch 5. Tr2tog over st just worked and next tr2tog. Rep from * to last tr. Ch 3. 1 tr in 4th ch of ch 5. Turn. Rep 2nd and 3rd rows until work from beg measures approx 20 ins [51 cm], ending with 3rd row. Next row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first st. *2 sc in next ch-5 sp. Rep from * to turning ch 7. 1 sc in ch-7 sp. 1 sc in 4th ch of ch 7. Turn. Next 3 rows: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc to end of row. Turn. Fasten off at end of last row. Handles: With RS of work facing join yarn with sl st to top left corner of Bag. Ch 1. Work 30 sc evenly across side of Bag. Turn. Next row: Ch 57 (handle). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each of next 55 ch. 1 sc in each sc to end of row. Turn. 86 sc in total. Next 2 rows: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc to end of row. Turn. Fasten off at end of last row, leaving a long end. Sew end of handle in position. Rep for other side.

Tapestry crochet
With tapestry crochet, one or more yarns are carried while another is single crocheted. This craft has the flexibility and portability of crochet, but the fabric looks as if it were woven on a loom. In the 1970s, Carol Ventura found the colorful tapestry crocheted shoulder bags made in Guatemala very inspirational. Since that time, she has explored the design potential of the technique, developed a system of diagramming patterns, and created a variety of flat and three-dimensional projects. This amulet bag project is a perfect introduction to tapestry crochet since it is done with a loose stitch and this pattern includes several tutorials. For more about tapestry crochet, please look at her web page at http://www.tapestrycrochet.com/ and for the rest of the story, please look at her blog at http://www.tapestrycrochet.com/blog/. Don't forget to check out the video for this project!

Materials: Yarn: red and white worsted weight wool (but NOT Superwash, which does not felt, and some white wool does not felt either, but white Lion Wool felts great) Hook: Steel crochet hook size K or size that will give an acceptable gauge. a safety pin, stitch marker, or a piece of yarn of a contrasting color for counting the rounds Finished Size Before Felting: 3 1/4 wide by 3 3/4 high (not including the strap). Finished Size After Felting: 2 3/4 wide by 3 1/2 high (not including the strap). Gauge: 4 stitches equals 1 inch, 4 rows equals 1 inch. Instructions: Round 1: Starting with red, make a slip knot (leaving a three-inch tail), then chain 12. Increase in multiples of 6 chain stitches at this point to make a wider bag. Starting with the second chain, single crochet 11 stitches. Single crochet 2 more stitches into the last chain for a total of 13 stitches. Continue to single crochet using the new top of the chain until you come around to the first stitch, carrying the tail as you go. Single crochet 2 stitches into the last stitch. This first round should have a total of 24 stitches. This piece is worked as a spiral, not in concentric rings, so it is difficult to tell where each round ends. To keep track of where each round ends, slip a safety pin or stitch marker into the top of the last stitch of the round or lay a two inch piece of yarn of a contrasting color across the path of the last stitch. You will remove the safety pin or stitch marker from the last stitch as you come to it again and slip it into the new last stitch or cross the path of the last stitch with the end of the counting yarn at the end of each round. Round 2: Cut the red tail flush and then start to carry the white yarn. Single crochet around without any increases, carrying the white yarn. The bag should still have 24 stitches when you finish this round. Turn the bag inside out (to make it right side out).

These illustrations are for right-handed crocheters and are read from right to left and bottom to top. Lefthanded crocheters, please look at the reversed images in a mirror. Round 3: You will begin to tapestry crochet the motif in this round. Remember, that to do a tapestry crochet stitch, colors are switched while 2 loops are still on the hook; yarn over with the white and pull it through the loops of the last stitch of the previous round to prepare for the tapestry crochet stitch. Rounds 3 through 7 correspond to the illustrated motif (read from right to left and bottom to top). Start the pattern as follows: tapestry crochet 1 white stitch, then 5 red stitches. Repeat this sequence 3 more times. As you tapestry crochet each stitch, the hook should point toward the inside of the bag. Every once in a while, untwist the yarns by holding the bag up in the air with one of the yarns while pulling on the other yarn. Let the piece spin around in the air so that the yarns untangle. Round 4: Tapestry crochet 2 white stitches, then 4 red stitches. Repeat this sequence 3 more times. Round 5: Tapestry crochet 3 white stitches, then 3 red stitches. Repeat this sequence 3 more times. Round 6: Tapestry crochet 4 white stitches, then 2 red stitches. Repeat this sequence 3 more times. Round 7: Tapestry crochet 5 white stitches, then 1 red stitch. Repeat this sequence 3 more times. Repeat rounds 3 through 7. Last Round: Continue to carry the red yarn. Crochet around with white. Cut the red yarn flush at the end of the round. Single crochet 4 stitches with white to bring it to the side of the bag. To Finish: Crochet a chain as long as you want the strap to be (this one has 135 chain stitches). Attach the chain to the other side of the bag with a single crochet stitch, slip stitch, cut the white yarn (leaving a 6 inch tail), yarn over and pull it all the way through the loop. Work in the end for 1 inch to secure it, then trim it off. To felt the bag, wash it in a washing machine in hot water with mild soap (like Ivory Dishwashing Liquid) and a cold rinse twice. It will shrink a little more each time it is washed. Now its time for you to show off your felted amulet bag and teach a friend how to make one! Crochet a cute shoulder bag with posy flower embellishment with this free bag crochet pattern. Felting the bag helps smooth away imperfections and creates a nice sturdy material, perfect for carrying essentials. Try this free pattern felting crochet.

Brick coloured bag with appliqu flowers

Materials: Yarn: ECO-WAYS Bamboo Wool: 8 skeins 3340 Rust A, 1 skein each 3525 Peacock B, 3650 Dill C and 3920 Cayenne D. Crochet Hook: 5.5mm [US I-9]. Yarn needle stitch marker Size: Before Felting: 18 wide x 15 high. After Felting: 11 wide x 11 high. Gauge: 16 sts = 4; 3 rows = 2 in cluster stitch before felting. Instructions: Cluster Stitch (multiple of 3 sts +1) Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn. Row 2: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), (hdc, dc) in next sc,* skip 2 sc, (sc, hdc, dc) in next sc; repeat from * across, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, (hdc, dc) in next st, *skip 2 sts, (sc, hdc, dc) in next sc; repeat from * to last 2 sts, skip 2, sc in top of turning ch. Repeat Row 3 for Cluster stitch. BACK With A, ch 62. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn. Beginning with Row 2, work in Cluster st until 38 rows have been worked. Row 39: Sc in each st across 61 sc. Do not turn, place marker for beginning of round. Round 1: Turn to work along side edge, work 52 sc along side edge, 3 sc in corner, 58 sc along opposite edge of beginning ch, 3 sc in corner, 52 sc along side edge, 3 sc in corner, work 58 sc along last edge, 3 sc in corner, slip st to first sc to join. Round 2: Working in front loops only, sc in each sc around, working 3 sc in each corner sc, slip st to first sc to join. Round 3: Working in both loops, slip st in each sc around, turn.

Last Row: Ch 1, sc in same st as slip st, working in back loops of Round 2 only, working 3 sc in each corner sc, sc in each st around 3 sides, leaving last side unworked for top edge. Fasten off. FRONT Work same as Back through Last Row. Do not fasten off, turn. Next Row: Ch 1, sc in sc, working 3 sc in each corner sc, along 3 sides, turn. Repeat last row 4 more times. Fasten off. FINISHING With right sides together, sew through both loops of last row to join Front and Back. Handle (make 2) With A, ch 7. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn 6 sc. Rows 2 76: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. Do not fasten off. Turn to work along side edge, sc evenly around all sides of Handle, working 3 sc in each corner, slip st to first sc to join. Fasten off. Flower (make 4) With D, ch 2. Round 1: Work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Place marker for beginning of round. Round 2: Work 2 sc in each sc around 12 sc. Round 3: (Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around 18 sc. Round 4: (Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around 24 sc. Fasten off. Round 5: Join B with a sc in front loop of first sc, working in front loops only, sc in each st around, slip st in first sc to join. Round 6: Ch 1, 3 sc in same sc as slip st, *slip st in next sc, ch 1, 3 sc in next sc; repeat from * around, slip st in last sc to join 12 petals. Round 7: Ch 1, sc in first unworked back loop of Round 5,*ch 2, (dc, tr) in next back loop, (tr, dc) in next back loop, ch 2, sc in next back loop; repeat from * around 8 petals. Fasten off. Sew one end of each Handle along top edge of Front and Back of Bag. Leaf (make 8) With C, ch 8. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch, hdc next 2 chs, dc next 2 chs, 6 dc in last ch, turn to work along opposite side of beginning ch, dc next 2 ch, hdc next 2 ch, sc last 2 ch, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sc next 2 sts, hdc next 2 sts, dc next 2 sts, (2 dc next st) 6 times, dc next 2 sts, hdc next 2 sts, sc last 2 sts, slip st in first sc of Row 2. Fasten off. Arrange and sew Flowers and Leaves in place on Front of Bag. Weave in ends. Felting Machine-wash or hand-felt until stitch definition is minimal, using after felting measurements as a guide. Stretch and shape. Allow to air dry.

Hexagon and pentagon granny squares backpack

oin up colorful hexagon and pentagon granny squares in this summer bag crochet pattern. The crochet motifs have a floral appearance appropriate for spring and summer.

Materials: Yarn: RED HEART Kids: 1 skein each 2358 Lt. Purple A and 2650 Pistachio B; 2 skeins 2680 Jade C. Crochet hook: Size J/10 (6 mm) Yarn needle Stitch markers or safety pins Size: 9 wide x 13 high (23 cm x 33 cm) excluding straps Gauge: Hexagon = 4/10cm diameter from point to point. Special Abbreviations rev sc (reverse single crochet) = Working from left to right, insert hook in next st to right of last st, yo and draw up a lp, yo and draw through both lps on hook. Instructions: Note: Tote has a lining. Throughout pattern, Outer Bag refers to the public side of the bag (which is constructed from hexagons and pentagons), and Lining refers to the sc lining. Outer Bag Hexagon (make 12 total) With C, ch 5; join with sl st in first ch to form a ring. Round 1 (right side): Ch 2 (counts as dc), 2 dc in ring, [ch 2, 3 dc in ring] 5 times; ch 2 18 dc and 6 ch-2 sps. Join with sl st in 2nd ch of beginning ch-2. Fasten off. note: Use A for Round 2 of first 6 motifs, and B for Round 2 of remaining 6 motifs. Round 2: With A or B and right side facing, join A or B with sl st in any ch-2 sp, ch 2 (counts as dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same ch-2 sp as joining; *ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * 4 times more; ch 1 36 dc, 6 ch-2 sps and 6 ch-1 sps. Join. Fasten off. Pentagon (make 12 total) With C, ch 5: join with sl st in first ch to form a ring. Round 1: Work same as Round 1 on hexagon. Note: Use A for Round 2 of first 6 motifs, and B for Round 2 of remaining 6 motifs. Round 2: With right side facing, join A or B with sl st in any ch-2 sp, ch 2 (counts as dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in

same ch-2 sp as joining; *ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * 3 times more; 3 dc in next ch-2 sp 33 dc, 5 ch-2 sps and 4 ch-1 sps. Join. Fasten off. Outer Base With A, ch 4; join with sl st in first ch to form a ring. Round 1: Ch 1, 6 sc in ring 6 sc. Join with sl st in first sc. Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc and in each sc around 12 sc. Join. Round 3: Ch 1, sc in same sc as joining, 2 sc in next sc; [sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] 5 times 18 sc. Join. Round 4: Ch 1, sc in same sc as joining and in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; [sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 5 times 24 sc. Join.

Purse with embroidered stars and a crochet flower

This intermediate crochet pattern creates a great-shaped purse with embroidered stars and a crochet flower embellishment. Let your creativity guide your embroidery and embellishment with this bag crochet pattern.

Materials: Caron International One Pound (100% acrylic; 16 oz/454 g, 812 yds/742 m skein): 1 skein A. Caron International's Simply Soft (100% acrylic; 6 oz/170 g, 315 yds/288 m skein): 1 skein B. Caron International's Simply Soft Brites (100% acrylic; 6 oz/170 g, 315 yds/288 m): 1 skein C. Shown in: #581 Espresso (A), #9703 Bone (B), #9609 Berry Blue (C) One size US I-9 (5.5mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge. 30 g bronze rocaille 'e' beads 2 wooden beads1/2"/1 cm diameter Pair of pale blue plastic purse handles Beading needle (or other slender needle that will fit through holes in 'e' beads) Yarn needle (that will fit through holes in wooden beads) Optional 4 pieces of plastic needlepoint mesh13 1/2 x 10 1/2"/34.5 x 26.5 cm (for lining) 1 piece of plain, lightweight paper19 x 10 1/2"/48.5 x 26.5 cm (for lining template) 1/2 yd/0.5 m fabric (for lining) Finished Size: Tote measures approximately 11"/28 cm wide (at base) x 3 1/2"/9 cm deep (at base) x 10 1/2"/26.5 cm high Gauge: In single crochet, holding 2 strands of C together, using US I-9 (5.5mm) hook, 13 sts and 14 rows = 4"/10 cm. In single crochet, holding 1 strand of A, using US I-9 (5.5mm) hook, 13 sts and 14 rows = 4"/10 cm. Special Stitch: sc2tog: Single crochet 2 together Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, (two loops on hook), insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through all three loops on hook. Instructions: BASE With 1 strand of A, chain 26. Note: Work stitches in back loops only, throughout base. Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn25 sc.

Rows 26: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn35 sc. Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. Rows 812: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each sc to last 2 sc, sc2tog, turn25 sc. Fasten off. SIDES (make 2) With 1 strand of A, chain 40. Note: Work stitches in back loops only, throughout sides. Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn39 sc. Rows 2 and 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn41 sc. Rows 5 and 6: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. Rows 721: Repeat Rows 46 five more times51 sc. Fasten off A. Row 22: Hold 2 strands of B together and join with sc in first sc, sc in same sc, sc in each sc to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn53 sc. Rows 23 and 24: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. Rows 2536: Repeat Rows 46 four more times61 sc. Fasten off. YARN FLOWERS (make 2) Center Thread 2 strands of B onto the yarn needle and draw through the center of one wooden bead. Take the needle back around and through the bead, from the same direction, a second and third time, wrapping both sides of the bead. Pull the ends of the strands gently to tighten (do not over tighten). Insert crochet hook under one of the side wraps, yarn over with B and draw up a loop, hold bead to work into same side wrap. Round 1 is worked around the center bead by working stitches into the two side wraps. Round 1: Ch 1, work 5 sc in same side wrap, work 5 sc in the opposite side wrap; join with slip st in first sc10 sc. Fasten off. Petals Join C with slip st in back loop of next sc of center. Row 1: Ch 1, sc in same sc, sc in next sc; leave remaining sts unworked, turn2 sc. Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc, turn4 sc. Row 3: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first sc, hdc in each remaining sc, turn5 hdc. Row 4: Ch 3, 2 dc in first hdc, dc in each remaining hdc, turn6 dc. Row 5: Ch 1, [sc2tog] 3 times; ch 1, slip st in end of each previous row, slip st into next sc of center. Repeat Rows 15 four more times to make a total of 5 petals. Ring of Beads Cut an 18"/45.5 cm length of B and divide it lengthwise into 4 single strands. Fold one strand in half and thread the two ends into a beading needle. Pick up and thread 20 rocaille beads onto the yarn. Take needle through the loop formed by the fold and gently tighten to form a ring of beads. Using the yarn tail, sew the ring of beads around the center bead of the flower. The remaining 3 single strands can be used when making the beaded flowers. LARGE BEADED FLOWERS (make 2) 1. Using yarn to match location of bag onto which flower will be sewn, and 20 rocaille beads, make a ring of beads as for yarn flower. 2. Pull one of the strands of yarn out of the needle. *Thread 9 more beads onto the remaining strand and push them down snug against the bead ring. Skip 3 beads in bead ring and stitch through next bead in ring; repeat from * around to create 5 petals. 3. Using the yarn tails, sew the flower to the bag.

SMALL BEADED FLOWER (make 10) 1. Using yarn to match location of bag onto which flower will be sewn, and 10 rocaille beads, make a ring of beads as for yarn flower. 2. Pull one of the strands of yarn out of the needle. *Thread 7 more beads onto the remaining strand and push them down snug against the bead ring. Skip 1 bead in bead ring and stitch through next bead in ring; repeat from * around to create 5 petals. 3. Using the yarn tails, sew the flower to the bag. FINISHING Using yarn needle, weave in all ends. Surface slip st on bag sides With right side of bag side facing, holding 2 strands of C together on wrong side, insert hook through top of first st of Row 21 (top row of A color section), yarn over with C and draw loop to right side, *insert hook through top of next st of Row 21, yarn over with C and draw loop back through bag side and through loop on hook (surface slip st made); repeat from * across stitches of Row 21. Fasten off and pull end through last loop on hook. Repeat on other bag side. Plastic Mesh Lining (optional) Lay bag base on plastic mesh and cut around to create a bottom liner. Sew bag base to liner. Lay one bag side on a large piece of paper and trace around it. To assure symmetry, fold the paper outline in half and cut out. Overlap one piece of plastic mesh over another by at least 1"/2.5 cm and sew together. Lay paper pattern on extended mesh piece and cut out. Cut a second piece of mesh in the same manner for other side of bag. Sew lining sections to bag sides at side and lower edges. The upper edges will be stitched later. Arrange and Attach Flowers Sew one yarn flower to each bag side. Do not sew tips of petals to the bag. Sew one large beaded flower and five small beaded flowers to each side of bag. Fabric Lining (optional) Trace the bag sides and base onto fabric and cut out, leaving a 1/2"/1 cm seam allowance around all edges. Sew the sides of the fabric lining together, then sew the base of the fabric lining to the sides of the lining. Assembly Sew the edges of the plastic canvas lining together (if used). Sew the sides of the bag together, matching the yarn color to the sections of the bag. Sew the base to the lower edge of the bag. Upper Edge Trim With C, sew upper edge of bag to plastic canvas lining (if used), using blanket stitch and sewing one blanket stitch into each single crochet of upper edge. If no plastic canvas lining is used, sew blanket stitch around upper edge of bag, sewing one stitch into each single crochet around the edge. Place fabric lining (if used) inside bag and sew liner to inside of bag along upper edge. Round 1: Hold 2 strands of C together and join with sc in any stitch of the blanket stitch border at upper edge of bag, sc in each remaining blanket stitch around; join with slip st in first sc. Handles Thread 2 strands of C onto needle and sew handles centered on upper edge of bag.

Black purse
Crochet a formal purse for your evenings out on the town with this intermediate purse crochet pattern. This formal purse features a ruffle flap and stylized strap.

Materials: Caron International's Bliss (60% acrylic, 40% nylon; 1.76 oz/50 g, 82 yds/75 m ball): 2 balls A. Caron International's Simply Soft (100% acrylic; 6 oz/170 g, 315 yds/288 m skein): 1 skein B. Shown in: #0013 Black (A); #9727 Black (A) One size US F/5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge One size US H/8 (5 mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge 2 plastic rings2"/5 cm diameter Yarn needle Finished Size: Purse measures approximately 14"/35.5cm wide x 8"/20.5cm high, with flap folded down Gauge: In pattern stitch, using US size F-5 (3.75 mm) hook and B, 22 sts (8 esc + 7 ch-2 sp) and 13 rows = 4"/10 cm

Special Terms: esc; Extended single crochet Insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through one loop on hook, yo, draw through remaining loops on hook. sc2tog: Single crochet 2 together [Insert hook in next st and pull up a loop] twice, yarn over and draw through 3 loops on hook.

Instructions: FRONT AND BACK (make 2) Beginning at lower edge of purse, with smaller hook and B, ch 53.

Row 1 (RS): Esc in 8th ch from hook (beginning ch counts as esc, ch 2), *ch 2, skip 2 ch, esc in next ch; repeat from * across, turn16 ch-2 spaces and 17 esc. Row 2 (increase): Ch 6, esc in first esc, ch 2, skip next ch-2 space, *esc in next esc, ch 2, skip next ch-2 space; repeat from * to last st, (esc, ch 2, tr) in last st, turn. Rows 36 (increase): Ch 6, esc in first tr, *ch 2, skip next ch-2 space, esc in next esc; repeat from * across, ch 2, (esc, ch 2, tr) in 4th ch of turning ch, turn. Row 7: Ch 4 (counts as esc, ch 2 here and throughout), skip next ch-2 space, esc in next esc, *ch 2, skip next ch-2 space, esc in next esc; repeat from * across, ch 2, esc in 4th ch of turning ch, turn 26 ch-2 spaces and 27 esc. Rows 820: Repeat Row 7. Row 21 (decrease): Ch 1, slip st in first 4 sts, ch 4, skip next ch-2 space, esc in next esc, *ch 2, skip next ch-2 space, esc in next esc; repeat from * across to last ch-2 space; leave remaining sts unworked, turn24 ch-2 spaces and 25 esc. Row 22: Ch 4 (counts as esc, ch 2 here and throughout), skip next ch-2 space, esc in next esc, *ch 2, skip next ch-2 space, esc in next esc; repeat from * across, ch 2, esc in 4th ch of turning ch, turn. Rows 2326: Repeat last 2 rows twice, turn20 ch-2 spaces and 21 esc. Do not fasten off. Edging Round 1: Ch 4, skip next ch-2 space, esc in next esc, *ch 2, skip next ch-2 space, esc in next esc; repeat from * across, ch 2, 2 esc in 4th ch of turning ch; working along diagonal side edge of piece, *ch 3, esc in end of next row (working esc in top of "corner" of the end of the row); repeat from * across diagonal side edge; working along straight side edge of piece, **ch 3, skip end of next row, esc in end of next row; repeat from ** across straight side edge; working along diagonal side edge of piece, *ch 3, esc in end of next row (working esc in top of "corner" of the end of the row); repeat from * across diagonal side edge; working along opposite side of foundation ch, ***ch 3, skip next 2 ch, esc in next esc; repeat from *** across opposite side of foundation ch; continue in this manner along next diagonal edge, straight side edge, and final diagonal edge; join with slip st in second ch of beginning ch-4. Fasten off. STRAP With smaller hook and B, make a chain approximately 34"/86.5 cm long. Row 1: Working in back loops only, hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each remaining ch to last ch, 3 hdc in last ch; pivot to work along opposite side of foundation ch (in front loops only), hdc in each ch to last ch, work 2 hdc in last ch; join with slip st in first hdc, do not turn. Row 2: Ch 2, rev sc in each sc around; join with slip st in first st. Fasten off. FINISHING With WS of front and back together, use larger hook and 2 strands of A held together, join yarn with slip st in top right corner. Row 1: Working through both thicknesses, work (sc, ch 1) evenly spaced around to top left corner, working (sc, ch 1, sc) in each corner; ch 1, sl st in same st as last sc worked. Fasten off. Flap With RS facing and larger hook, join one strand of A with sc in top right corner of back. Row 1: *Ch 1, sc in next ch-2 space; repeat from * across, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first sc, *sc in next ch-1 space, sc in next sc; repeat from * across, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. Rows 47 (increase): Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn. Rows 814: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. Place markers in both ends of Row 8 for ruffle placement. Rows 1519 (decrease): Ch 1, *sc2tog, sc in each sc to last 2 sc, sc2tog, turn. Fasten off. Flap Ruffle With RS facing and larger hook, join one strand of A with slip st in end of Row 8 (marked). Row 1: Ch 1, sc evenly spaced around edge of flap to opposite end of Row 8 (marked), working 2 sc in each corner, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Rows 3 and 4: Ch 1, *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * across, turn. Note: Work an additional sc if needed to reach end of row. Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each sc across; slip st in edge of Row 1 (above), turn. Row 6: Ch 1, *sc in next sc, ch 1, skip next sc; repeat from * across; slip st in edge of Row 1 (above). Fasten off. Attach Strap With larger hook and 2 strands of A held together, work sc around both plastic rings. Work enough sc to cover rings completely. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew one ring to top of each side of purse. Thread one end of strap through each ring, and sew end to strap. Using yarn needle, weave in all ends.

Hip hobo bag

Crochet a hip hobo bag with shoulder strap and ring accent. This hobo bag crochet pattern is easy, fun and creates the perfect size purse.

Materials: Yarn: Lily Sugarn Cream Twists (56.7 g/2 oz) 6 balls of #20117 (Denim Twists) Crochet Hook: Size 4 mm (U.S. G/6) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge Plastic ring 3 ins [7.5 cm] in diameter for decoration Size: Approx 14 ins [35.5 cm] wide x 25 ins [63.5 cm] tall. Gauge: 15 hdc and 11 rows = 4 ins [10 cm]. Instructions: Note: Ch 2 at beg of row does not count as st. FRONT and BACK (make alike). Ch 40. 1st row: (RS). 2 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 hdc in each ch to last ch. 2 hdc in last ch. Turn. 40 hdc. Next 6 rows: Ch 2. 2 hdc in first hdc. 1 hdc in each hdc to last hdc. 2 hdc in last hdc. Turn. 52 hdc at end of last row. Next row: Ch 2. 1 hdc in each hdc to end of row. Turn. Rep last row for 10 ins [25.5 cm], ending with a WS row. **Shape strap: Next row: (RS). Ch 2. 1 hdc in each of next 17 hdc. (Yoh and draw up a loop in next st) twice. Yoh and draw through all loops on hook - Hdc2tog made. Turn. Leave rem sts unworked. 18 sts. Next row: Ch 2. Hdc2tog over first 2 sts. 1 hdc in each hdc to end of row. Turn. Next row: Ch 2. 1 hdc in each hdc to last 2 sts. Hdc2tog over last 2 sts. Turn. Rep last 2 rows once more. 14 sts. Next 3 rows: Ch 2. 1 hdc in each hdc to end of row. Turn. Next row: Ch 2. Hdc2tog over first 2 sts. 1 hdc in each hdc to end of row. Turn. Rep last 4 rows 7 times more. 6 sts. Next row: Ch 2. 1 hdc in each hdc to end of row. Turn. Rep last row until strap measures 16 ins [40.5 cm], ending with a WS row. Fasten off.** With WS of work facing, join yarn with sl st to first st. Work from ** to ** as given above, noting RS becomes WS. FINISHING With WS of Front and Back tog, sew bottom and side seams to top of Straps.

Decorative Flap: Ch 17. 1st row: (RS). 1 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 hdc in each ch to end of ch. 15 hdc. Next row: Ch 2. 1 hdc in each hdc to end of row. Turn. Rep last row for 6 ins [18 cm], ending with a WS row. Fold inch [2 cm] of Flap around ring and sew in position. Sew Flap to Back. Fringe: Cut yarn, 5 ins [12.5 cm] long. Taking 2 strands tog, knot into fringe around Ring. Trim fringe evenly (see picture).

Little Red Knit Bag

This little red crochet bag is the perfect accessory to add a punch to your Friday night outfit. For the beginning crocheter, this purse features the single stitch and is easy to make. Use it as a clutch for the holidays and be in the Christmas spirit.

Materials: 175 yards of nylon cord 2 handles Drawstring liner Beaded button Base board bottom Crochet Hook: J or size needed to obtain gauge. Gauge: 3 sts per 1 inch Abbreviations: ch = chain sc = single crochet dc = double crochet Steps: BODY: With size J crochet hook, ch 61. Beginning in 2nd ch from hook, work sc in each stitch (60 sc). Slip stitch in beginning chain to form ring. Continue sc until tube measures 6 inches high. Note: It is not necessary to chain at end of each row - simply continue around tube. CLOSURE: Ch 2, turn. Row 1: sc in 2nd stitch from hook and next 10 stitches, ch 2, turn. (10 sc) Row 2: sc in 2nd stitch from hook and in each stitch across and in ch 2 space, ch 2, turn. Row 3: Repeat row 2. Row 4: Decrease one stitch at beginning and at the end of row, sc all other stitches in row. Rows 5-6: Repeat row 5.

When 4 stitches remain, ch 10, slip stitch newly formed chain to opposite side creating a loop, finish off. THE BUTTON: Lay bag flat on a table. Attach the button to the middle front of the bag. Weave in all loose ends with the crochet hook. HANDLES: Make two patches as follows: Ch 10. In 2nd ch from hook, *sc in each stitch across, ch 2, turn*. Repeat from * 3 times more. Patch will measure approximately 1 in. x 3 in. Whip stitch the top edge of one patch near the top inside center of the bag. Place one of the handles between the patch and the inside body of the bag and whip stitch the bottom of the patch in place. Repeat on opposite side. BOTTOM: Chain 15. In 2nd ch from hook, *sc in each stitch across, ch 2, turn*. Repeat from * until piece measures 6 in. high. Whip stitch the bottom of the bag to the bottom of the body tube. Turn the bag inside out and whip stitch the base board to the bottom. Place drawstring liner inside and enjoy! Shoulder Strap (Optional): Crochet: Ch. 6 stitches. Sc in each ch beginning in 2nd ch from hook, ch 2, turn. Repeat pattern for 40 in. Secure strap to inside of the baseboard and to top edge of bag.

Variations: Add an eyelash or novelty yarn. Add beads to the closure. Create an inside pocket with either leftover cord or fabric.

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Silk Lace Bag

Seasonal bag
This is the perfect seasonal bag to tote around all your belongings. This pattern features a felted technique and crochet patchwork that creates a beautiful design in your favorite colors. Try this free pattern felting crochet.

MATERIALS Patons Classic Wool (100 g / 3.5 oz) Main Color (MC) (204 Old Gold) 2 balls Contrast A (205 Deep Olive) 1 ball Contrast B (206 Russet) 2 balls Contrast C (238 Paprika) 2 balls Crochet Hook: Size 5 mm (U.S. H or 8) or size needed to obtain tension. Awl tool 4 mm diameter for holes. Tapestry needle. MEASUREMENTS Approx 14 ins [35.5 cm] wide x 16 ins [40.5 cm] high. TENSION Granny Square Motif = 3 ins [9 cm] square. 16 sc and 16 rows = 4 ins [10 cm]. Important to know before felting: Record all the measurements and changes before and after felting. You will be able to adjust the method to produce proper results. Always test a sample. Different colored yarns may felt differently. Colorfastness can be affected by very hot water. Any knitting that has been properly felted becomes very dense and matted. Felting: Put knitted pieces in top-loading washing machine. Using low water level, run a Hot/Cold cycle for 5-15 min. Put in a pair of jeans or large towel (in non-interfering color) for extra agitation. Add 2 tablespoons of baking soda for a small load. After one cycle, check for size. Repeat as necessary. Run through the rinse and spin cycle. Lay felted piece on a dry towel, away from heat or sunlight. Shape piece to correct measurements. Allow to dry thoroughly. Do not use a clothes dryer. If an edge ripples, baste a thread through the edge and gather in. Remove the thread after the felting is dry. INSTRUCTIONS Granny Square (make 12) With MC, ch 4. Join with sl st to form ring. 1st rnd: Ch 3 (counts as dc). 2 dc in ring. (Ch 1. 3 dc ) 3 times in ring. Ch 1. Sl st to top of ch-3. 2nd rnd: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch-1 sp). [(3 dc. Ch 1) twice in next ch 1 sp] 3 times. (3 dc. Ch 1. 2 dc) in last ch-1 sp. Join with sl st to top of ch 3.

3rd rnd: Ch 3 (counts as dc). 2 dc in next ch-1 sp. Ch 1. *(3 dc. Ch 1) twice in next ch-1 sp. 3 dc in next ch-1 sp. Ch 1. Rep from * twice more. (3 dc. Ch 1) twice in last ch-1 sp. Sl st in top of ch-3. Fasten off. Piece A (make 1 each with A, B and C) Ch 46. 1st row: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end of ch. 45 sc. Turn. 2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc to end of row. Turn. Rep last row until work from beg measures 12 ins [30.5 cm]. Fasten off. Piece B With B, ch 30. 1st row: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end of ch. 29 sc. Turn. 2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc to end of row. Turn. Rep last row until work from beg measures 15 ins [38 cm]. Fasten off. Handle/Gusset With B, ch 10. 1st row: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end of ch. 9 sc.Turn. 2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc to end of row. Turn. Rep last row until work from beg measures 95 ins [241.5 cm]. Fasten off. FINISHING Felt Pieces A, B and Handle/Gusset. Felted Piece A should measure approx 8 x 8 ins [20.5 x 20.5 cm]. Felted Piece B should measure approx 5 x 11 ins [14 x 28 cm]. Felted Handle/Gusset should measure approx 1 x 72 ins [4 x 183 cm]. Cut four 3 ins [9 cm] squares from each Piece A (12 squares in total). With an awl tool, make 4 corner holes inch [.5 cm] in from both edges. Make 3 more holes evenly spaced between corner holes along each side of square. With RS of work facing, join MC with sl st to any corner hole. Ch 1. *(2 sc. Ch 1. 2 sc) in corner hole. (3 sc in next hole) 3 times. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. Cut four Triangle Motifs 4 ins [11.5 cm] wide x 5 ins [12.5 cm] high from Piece B. With an awl tool, make corner hole inch [.5 cm] in from both edges at right angle. Make 1 hole at each point inch [1 cm] below both edges. Make 6 holes along the shortest (bottom) side of Triangle Motif evenly spaced between corner holes. Make 10 holes evenly spaced between corner holes along the longest side of Triangle Motif. Make 8 holes evenly spaced between corner holes along last side of Triangle Motif. Right Triangle Motif: With RS of work facing, join MC with sl st to bottom right corner hole. Ch 1. (2 sc. Ch 1. 2 sc) in corner hole. (3 sc in next hole up side of Triangle Motif) 8 times. (2 sc. Ch 2. 2 sc) in next point hole. (3 sc in next hole down longest side of Triangle Motif ) 10 times. (2 sc. Ch 2. 2 sc) in next point hole. (3 sc in each hole along bottom side of Triangle Motif) 6 times. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. Left Triangle Motif: With RS of work facing, join MC with sl st to bottom left corner hole of Triangle Motif. Ch 1. (2 sc. Ch 1. 2 sc) in corner hole. (3 sc in next hole along bottom side of Triangle Motif ) 6 times. (2 sc. Ch 2. 2 sc) in next point hole. (3 sc in next hole up longest side of Triangle Motif ) 10 times. (2 sc. Ch 2. 2 sc) in next point hole. (3 sc in next hole down side of Triangle Motif ) 8 times. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. Trim Handle/Gusset to measure 70 ins [177.5 cm] long. With an awl tool, make 4 corner holes inch [.5 cm] below both edges. Make 2 holes evenly spaced between corner holes along short sides of Handle. Make rem holes inch [1 cm] apart along long sides of Handle/Gusset, ins [.5 cm] below edge. With RS of work facing, join MC with sl st to any corner hole. Ch 1. *(2 sc. Ch 1. 2 sc) in corner hole. Work 3 sc in each hole along sides, having (2 sc. Ch 1. 2 sc) in corner holes. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. With RS of work facing and MC sew all squares and triangle motifs for Front and Back, as shown on Diagram I. Sew short sides of Handle/Gusset tog to form a ring, taking care not to twist gusset. Pin Handle/Gusset to Front, with gusset seam at center bottom of bag. Starting at top of Triangle Motif, with RS of work facing and MC, sew Handle/Gusset and Front tog. Rep for Back.

Water bottle bag

Crochet this cute little bag to tote your eco-friendly water bottle or thermos. This water bottle bag crochet pattern is great for bringing water to the gym or summer festivals. This little bag with decorative spiral tassel is a quick and easy crochet pattern for anytime.

Materials: Yarn: 1 ball (50g) Plymouth Earth: Oceanside Organic Crochet Hook: US F/3.75 mm Size: 3.5 wide by 4.5 tall. Handle: approx 25 long Gauge: First 7 rnds = 3" across; 5 rows (rnds) on side = 1" Note: You will be working in rounds (rnds) on the Right Side (RS) for the body of the water bottle holder. Do not turn the rounds. Join each rnd with a sl st in the first sc in the sc rnds, and the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4 in the mesh rnds. The handles will be worked in rows. You will turn at the end of each row. Instructions: Ch 2. Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Join with sl st in first sc. Do not turn. (6 sc) Rnd 2: Ch 1. 2 sc in each sc around. Join as above. (12 sc) Rnd 3: Ch 1. 2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc. Repeat from * around. Join as above. (18 sc) Rnd 4: Ch 1. 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 2 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Join as above. (24 sc) Rnd 5: Ch 1. 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 3 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 3 sc. Repeat from * around. Join as above. (30 sc) Rnd 6: Ch 1. 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 4 sc. Repeat from * around. Join as above. (36 sc) Rnd 7: Ch 1. 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 5 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 5 sc. Repeat from * around. Join as above. (42 sc) Rnd 8: Ch 1. Sc in each sc around. Join as above. (42 sc) Rnds 9 14: Repeat Rnd 8. Rnd 15: Ch 4 (counts as (dc, ch 1) here and throughout. Skip first sc, dc in next sc, ch 1, skip 1 sc, *dc in next sc, ch 1, skip 1 sc. Repeat from * around. Join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4. (21 [dc, ch-1]) Rnd 16: Ch 4. Skip first ch-1 sp, *dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp. Repeat from * around. Join as above. (21 [dc, ch-1]) Rnds 17 18: Repeat Rnd 16.

Rnd 19: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, sc in next ch-1 sp, *sc in next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp. Repeat from * around. Join with sl st in first sc. (42 sc) Rnd 20: Ch 1. Sc in each sc around. Join as above. (42 sc) Rnds 21 25: Repeat Rnd 20. At the end of Rnd 25, do not end off. First Handle: Row 1 (RS): sc in first sc and in each of next 10 sc. Turn. (11 sc) Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first sc. Sc2tog in next 2 sc. Sc in each sc across until last 3 sc. Sc2tog in next 2 sc, sc in last sc. Turn. (9 sc) Row 3: Repeat Row 2. (7 sc) Row 4: Repeat Row 2. (5sc) Row 5: Ch 1. Sc in each sc across. Turn. Rows 6 50: Repeat Row 5. End off. Second Handle: Skip 10 sc on Rnd 25 of the body of the water bottle holder. Join yarn in next sc, Ch 1. Rnds 1 50: Repeat directions for First Handle. At end of rnd 50, do not end off. Turn both handles so the RS of handles are facing. Sc handles together, by working one sc in matching stitches of last row of both handles. End off. Weave in ends. Tassel: Note: The spiral tassels are worked together work one tassel first, then chain from the end and work the other tassel. There will be 10 chs between the two spirals. Ch 11 for first tassel. Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 2 sc in each of next 9 chs. (20 sc) Turn. Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc and in each sc across. (40 sc) Turn. Second tassel and connecting chain: Row 3: Ch 21. 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 2 sc in each of next 9 chs. (20 sc) Turn. Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc and in each sc across. (40 sc.) End off. Weave in ends. Tie tassel to one end of handle.

CROCHETED PURSE

by Susan Norrad of http://www.crochetandknitting.com MATERIALS 2 - 50g balls of 4 ply knitting worsted. (This is an estimate, I usually buy larger sizes, so I am really not sure how much I used) Hook - 4.50mm 1 - Button (1" diameter) or a strip of Velcro. My notes, are in blue. Abbreviations used: st - stitch ch - chain ss - slip stitch sc - single crochet hdc - half double crochet beg - beginning tog - together Purse Pattern Instructions: Ch 31 to begin RND 1 - (Note: You will be crocheting down the chain and then you will turn and crochet down the other side of the chain, through the back loops of the chain stitches. ) 1 sc in third ch from hook, 1 sc in next 26 chs, 4 sc in last ch ( Note: If you find that making 4 sc in the last chain loosens the chain, you could do 2 sc in the last chain, then pull tail end up towards you, then make 2 sc in the same ch. This will help tighten it up some.) Now you crochet up the back side of the chain 1 sc in each back of ch loops, 2 sc in last back of ch loop, ss to join to the starting ch (the loop before the first sc), ch 1, turn. RND 2 - 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 29 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 29 sc, 2 sc in last st, ss to join to first sc, ch 1, turn. (66 sc) RND 3 - 1 sc in each 66 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. RND 4 to 24 - Same as Row 3. RND 25 - (Flap) ss in first sc, ss in next sc then ch 1 and 1 sc in the same sc, 1 sc in next 30 sc, ch 1, turn.

(31 sc) RND 26 - 1 sc in next 31 sc, ch 1, turn. RND 27 to 42 - Same as Row 26. RND 43 - 1 sc in next 14 sc, ch 3, skip next 3 sc (this is for the button hole. If you are using a velcro strip instead of a button, do this row the same as Row 26.) 1 sc in next 14 sc, ch 1, turn. RND 44 - 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 11 sc, 1 sc in each of next 3 chs, 1 sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next sc, ch 1, turn. (29 sc) RND 45 - 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 23 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in last sc, fasten off. (27 sc) EDGING Fasten yarn at the bottom of falp where you began on Row 25. With wrong side of flap facing you, make 1 ss at each end of flap rows, 1 ss in each sc across the last row of the flap, 1 ss at end of each row of flap, 1 ss in each sc across the front of purse, ss to join to first ss, fasten off. STRAP Fasten yarn 2 sts back from where you ended the edging. Ch 130 (or to desired length), ss to join to the other side of purse in the 2nd ss from the flap (be careful not to get the chain twisted). Working on the right hand side of the chain, ch 1, 1 hdc in each ch to beg, ss in first ss from flap. Now you are going to join the hdc row on strap to the starting ch row of strap. 1 ss in each hdc and corresponding st on starting ch, ss to join in first ss from flap, fasten off. Sew button or a Velcro strip in place. (I crocheted a cover for the button I used.)

How to Make a Drawstring Bag from Crocheted Granny Squares

by Twila Lenoir Granny squares work up into a practical crocheted drawstring bag! These are useful for carrying your crochet work with you - or for carrying your toiletries when travelling. Use your leftover yarn or buy some yarn on sale to make the granny squares for this economical crochet project.

A LOT A RUFFLES FELTED BAG

MATERIALS: Worsted weight feltable yarn Approximately 7 ounces main color (200 g) and 3.5 ounces (50 g) for trim and straps K and I crochet hooks Yarn needle APPROXIMATE SIZE: Bag: Before felting laid flat, width bottom 16 inches, top 12 inches, height 11 inches After felting laid flat, width bottom 10 inches, top 8 inches, height 8 inches Straps: Before felting 21 inches. After felting 18 inches. GAUGE: Unimportant, but bag should be worked loosely. PATTERN NOTES: 1. Read instructions all the way through before beginning. 2. Decrease used isnt your conventional hdc dec, but what seems to work best for this pattern. Decrease

(dec over 2 sts); yarn over, insert hook in next st, yarn over and pull loop through, yarn over, insert hook in next st , yarn over and pull loop through, yarn over and pull through all 5 loops of hook. 3. Before working each set of decreases lay work flat with round 1 (sc round) centered at bottom. The first decrease, of each decrease round, should be 2 stitches from the fold. The number of stitches worked before the decreases worked out right for me, but in case yours doesnt always check to be sure. It isnt crucial that the number of stitches before the decrease is the same, just that the decreases are worked at the folded edge. 4. When working in the back loop of the hdc work into the VERY back loop leaving two loops on the front free. 5. Always crochet over the tails when possible. They will be locked in place by the felting process. 6. Check your bag often during the felting process. The straps tend to tangle and you will need to untangle and give them a stretch. 7. The photos of the bag before felting show a 7 ruffle version, don't let that confuse you. INSTRUCTIONS: With main color and K hook, ch 46 Round 1: Make 2 sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in each chain (43) to last chain. Work over yarn tail for remainder of this round. 3 sc in last ch. Work in the unused loops on opposite side of starting chain, sc in each chain. (44 stitches) Join with a slip stitch in top of first sc. [92 sc] Rounds 2-4: Ch 2 (this counts as turning ch, not the first stitch, throughout), hdc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first hdc. [92 hdc] Round 5: Ch 2, dec over 2 sts, twice, hdc in 42 sts, dec over 2 sts twice, hdc in 42 sts. Join with a slipstitch in top of first dec. [88 sts] Round 6: Ch 2, hdc in the back loop of each st around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first hdc. [88 hdc] Rounds 7-8: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first hdc. [88 hdc] Round 9: Ch 2, hdc in 2 sts, dec over 2 sts, twice, hdc in 40 sts, dec over 2 sts twice, hdc in 38 sts. Join with a slipstitch in back loop of first hdc. [84 sts] Round 10: Ch 2, hdc in the back loop of each st around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first hdc. [84 hdc] Rounds 11-12: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in back loop of first hdc. [84 hdc] Round 13: Ch 2, hdc in 3 sts, dec over 2 sts, twice, hdc in 38 sts, dec over 2 sts twice, hdc in 35 sts. Join with a slipstitch in back loop of first hdc. [80 sts] Round 14: Ch 2, hdc in the back loop of each st around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first hdc. [80 hdc] Rounds 15-16: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first hdc. [80 hdc] Round 17: Ch 2, hdc in 5 sts, dec over 2 sts, twice, hdc in 36 sts, dec over 2 sts twice, hdc in 30 sts. Join with a slipstitch in back loop of first hdc. [76 sts] Round 18: Ch 2, hdc in the back loop of each st around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first hdc. [76 hdc] Rounds 19-20: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first hdc. [76 hdc] Round 21: Ch 2, hdc in 7 sts, dec over 2 sts, twice, hdc in 34 sts, dec over 2 sts twice, hdc in 27 sts. Join with a slipstitch in back loop of first hdc. [72 sts] Round 22: Ch 2, hdc in the back loop of each st around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first hdc. [72 hdc] Rounds 23-24: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first hdc. [72 hdc] Round 25: Ch 2, hdc in 8 sts, dec over 2 sts, twice, hdc in 32 sts, dec over 2 sts twice, hdc in 24 sts. Join with a slipstitch in back loop of first hdc. [68 sts] Fasten off main color. Round 26: Ch 2, hdc in the back loop of each st around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first hdc. [68 hdc] Round 27-28: Ch 2, hdc in each stitch around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first hdc. [68 sc] Round 29: (Welt round): Ch 1, slipstitch in the next st and the unused loop of the hdc in round 26, repeat around. This will create a welt. Join in top of first slipstitch. [68 sts] Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Stitches marked for ruffles. RUFFLES: Ruffle Row 1: Lay bag flat with the bottom of the bag at the top. Mark the third st of unused loops of the hdc of rounds 5, 9, 13, 17, 21 and 25, on the right and left sides. These sts are where the ruffles begin and end. With bottom of bag up, attach main color yarn with a slipstitch in the right hand marked st. Ch 2, 2 dc in same st. 3 dc in each st across to the other marked st. 3 dc in last st. Fasten off. Repeat the ruffle using the other rounds of unused loops. You will have 6 ruffles on one side of bag. Ruffle Row 2: Attach the trim color with a sc in the first st of ruffle row 1. Sc in each st across. Fasten off.

Bag ready for felting. CORD FOR STRAPS: Make 2 with trim color Round 1: With I hook, leaving an 8 inch tail, ch 2, 5 sc in second chain from hook. Do not join. Round 2-until 21 inches long: Sc in back loop of next sc. Continue working sc in back loop until cord is 36 inches long. You will be working from the inside of a tube. Fasten off leaving an 8 inch tail.

ATTACH STRAPS: Lay bag flat and mark 3 inches in from each side on front and back. These are the locations where you will sew the ends of the straps in place. Using a yarn needle attach the straps at the markers. (One strap to each side.) When sewing the strap, place the bottom of the strap at the base of the welt round. Reinforce the area where the handles and bag are joined by weaving the tail back and forth through the stitches several times. Remove all markers. FELT AND BLOCK: You can find complete felting instructions here:

HOW TO FELT OR FULL

WARNING: Felting is fun and once you do it you will be totally addicted. What you need: Feltable yarn Zippered pillowcase Top loading washer Liquid detergent 2 pair old jeans Kitchen timer Large pot or bowl Old towels The wool needs to be NOT superwash in order for it to felt. You can also felt with yarns that have a bit of non natural fiber, but not much. You can carry along a strand of novelty yarn with your wool. If you don't know a yarn is feltable, then you need to knit a swatch and test it. If the yarn label says wash by hand and dry flat you can be pretty sure it will felt. BELIEVE ME, when I say SWATCH if you don't know if the yarn is feltable. Some yarns that I like for felting are: Cascade 220 Peruvian Wool of the Andes from KnitPicks.com Peruvian Highland wool from Elann.com Paton's Classic Merino Lion Brand Fisherman's Wool Items to be felted need to be worked at a loose gauge. For worsted weight I use size 10.5 or 11 knitting needles, for crocheted items I use a I hook. You'll need to place the item in a zippered pillowcase, or a regular one that is tied tightly shut. I've used a regular pillow case and closed it with a ponytail elastic. But it is inconvenient, as you need to open the pillow case to check felting progress. BELIEVE ME, when I say you need to use the pillow case, there will be lots of loose fibers and they can clog the pump on your washer. You are going to need a couple pair of old jeans to increase the agitation action. Best is to use dark jeans for dark colors, use light ones when felting light colors. This is ideal, mostly I just use the same two pair of old jeans with all my felting. Okay you knitted or crocheted your soon to be felted item. Now set your washer: lowest water level, hottest water, hardest agitation settings. While it is filling add a very small amount of detergent, this can be dish washing liquid (not dish washer type) or liquid laundry detergent. BELIEVE ME, a very small amount. You only need enough to break the surface tension of the yarn. Set a big pot or bowl by your washer, because when you take the item out to check it, it is hot and wet. Now toss in the jeans and your project in the zippered pillow case. Set a kitchen timer for 5 minutes. When the timer goes off, turn off your washer and check your item. It probably won't have felted much the first 5 minutes. But once it starts it can change fast. Reset your washer to the beginning of the wash cycle, reset the timer for 5 minutes and repeat. It takes my washer about 20 minutes to felt things down enough that you don't see the individual stitches any longer. ABSOLUTELY don't let the washer spin. Spinning can make

creases and once you have them you have them forever. BELIEVE ME, when I say don't let the washer spin. Once the stitches in your item don't show individually take the item to a sink where you can rinse it in cold running water. This is to get the detergent out and "set" the wool. Then place the item on an old towel and roll up. Allow it to rest for a few minutes. Then if it still seems very wet repeat the wrap and rest step. I usually block my item on a box, that I've wrapped in a plastic bag. It should fit the box tightly, it should be a struggle to get the bag stretched over the box. You can also block by stuffing with plastic bags, or towels. But you won't get a nice squared off look with the bags or towels. Hats, I block over a bowl or flower pot. I have a pot I've had since the 70s that is the perfect size and shape. Once you have the box (bowl, pot, bags or towels) in your project set it on a folded towel. Change the towel when it becomes damp. Some patterns require no blocking, those I just dry by laying on a folded towel. It may take several days to dry completely. Once the item seems dry on the outside and the towel is no longer getting very damp, take out the blocking material to speed drying.

Felted, crocheted bag

Materials Approx. 25g each of black, lavender and purple mohair 8mm hook Needle & strong thread Uses UK terms Bag Working in stripe sequence first two rounds in black, thereafter 1 round lavender, 1 round purple, 1 round black. Round 1 3ch, work 7tr into third ch from hook. Join into a circle. Round 2 2tr into each stitch. Round 3 2ch, 1tr in same st, *2tr in next, 1tr* rep to last st, 1tr, join. Round 4 2ch, 1tr in same st, 1tr, *2tr in next, 2tr*, finish round 2tr in 1, 1tr, join. Round 5 2ch, 1tr in same st, 2 tr *2tr in next, 3tr* finish round 2tr in 1, 2tr, join. Work 14 rounds straight, changing colour every round. Fasten off. Tidy up ends. Handles Using one strand of each colour, make a chain 150cm long. Fasten off. Tidy up ends. Do the felting thing. I flung this in a hot wash with a few towels. Blocking I used a round plastic food container and left the bag to dry in place. Cut 3-colour chain in half. Sew on as handles. Lindsey Harley 2006

Annie Bag
crocheted in Zen Colors and Zen Skill level: Easy

Abbreviations & Terms Yarn used ...

Approximately 9 diameter x 9 tall. MATERIALS BERROCO ZEN COLORS (50 grs), 3 hanks #8141 Mt. Fuji Mix (A). BERROCO ZEN (50 grs), 2 hanks each #8222 Kimchi (B) and #8242 Kawakubo Blue (C). Crochet hook, size 4.00 mm (F). 2 Ceramic beads from One World Buttons, 1 each #PRA 3413-42LP and #PRA 3413 42PL. Two 9 diameter circles of stiff felt for bottom of bag. BAG With crochet hook, using A, ch 4, join with a sl st to form a ring. Rnd 1: With A, work 7 scs in ring, join with a sl st in first sc. Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 scs in each sc, join with a sl st in ch-1 14 scs. Rnd 3: Rep Rnd 2 28 scs.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, * 2 scs in next sc, sc in next sc, rep from * around, join with a sl st in ch-1 42 scs. Change to B. Rnds 5 and 6: Work even in sc with B 42 scs. Rnd 7: Ch 1, * 2 sc's in next sc, sc in next 2 sc's, rep from * around, join with a sl st in ch-1 - 56 sc's. Change to A. Rnds 8 and 9: Work even in sc with A 56 sc's. Rnd 10: Ch 1, * 2 scs in next sc, sc in next 3 scs, rep from * around, join with a sl st in ch-1 70 scs. Change to C. Rnds 11 and 12: Work even in sc with C 70 scs. Rnd 13: Ch 1, * 2 scs in next sc, sc in next 4 scs, rep from * around, join with a sl st in ch-1 84 scs. Change to A. Rnds 14 and 15: Work even in sc with A 84 scs. Rnd 16: Ch 1, * 2 scs in next sc, sc in next 5 scs, rep from * around, join with a sl st in ch-1 98 scs. Change to B. Rnds 17 and 18: Work even in sc with B 98 scs. Rnd 19: Ch 1, * 2 scs in next sc, sc in next 6 scs, rep from * around, join with a sl st in ch-1 112 scs. Change to A. Rnds 20 and 21: Work even in sc with A 112 scs. Rnd 22: Turn and, working from WS, work 1 sc in each sc 2 rows below sts will be twice as long and thick as in other rows. This forms ridge at bottom of sides of bag. Rnd 23: Turn and, working from RS, work even in sc with A 112 scs. Rnd 24: Work even in sc with A 112 scs. Work the next 12 rows even in sc with no incs as follows: 3 rnds C, 3 rnds A, 3 rnds B, 3 rnds A. Rep these 12 rows twice more. Rnd 61: With A, turn and working from WS, work 1 sc in each sc 2 rows below sts will be twice as long and thick as in other rows. This forms ridge at top of bag. Rnd 62: Turn and, working from RS, Ch 1, * sc in the next 2 scs, ch 3, skip 2 scs, sc in next 3 scs, rep from * around, join with a sl st in ch-1. Rnd 63: Ch 1, * sc in the next 2 scs, 3scs in ch-3 sp, sc in next 3 scs, rep from * around, join with a sl st in ch-1 128 scs. Rnd 64: Work even in sc with A 128 scs. Change to C. Rnd 65: Work even in sc with C 128 scs. Fasten off.

TWISTED CORDS Cut one 140 long strand each of A and B. Put strands tog and fold in half. Tie loose ends tog. Holding the knot in your hand, slip the loop over a hook and pull tight. Slip a pencil through the knotted end and twist until cord is so tight that it cant be twisted further and starts to double back on itself. Pur 1 finger in center of cord and carefully fold in half, letting 2 ends of cord twist tog. Tie both ends of cord in a knot, leaving a 1 end. Cut ends for tassels. Starting at one side of bag, weave cord in an out around bag though holes formed by Row 62. Slip both ends of cord through 1 bead and make a larger knot to keep bead from falling off. Using A and C, make a second cord the same as first and weave through same holes starting and ending at opposite side of bag. Slip on second bead and make knot. This allows bag to be closed by pulling both cords at the same time.

Alpaca Beaded Handbag

by KristinOmdahl

Introduction Crocheted tiers of luxurious, alpaca scallops trimmed with carved, bone beads and wooden handles makes for a bag good for any occasion. Materials List Henrys Attic Andee (50% superfine alpaca/50% merino wool; 500yds per 8oz), 2 hanks US G/6 (4 mm) crochet hook (25) 8 mm carved bone beads Two 13 wooden purse handles Tapestry needle Scissors Optional 1/2 yard of lining; needle and thread to match lining Finished Size 13 (33 cm) long, 13.5 (34 cm) wide (not including handles) Gauge 18 sts x 14 rows of sc = 4" (10 cm) 16 sts x 8 rows of dc = 4" (10 cm) The Pattern Tier (make 5) Ch 8 (counts as ch 5, dc), dc in 4th chain from hook and in each st across, turn. (6 sts) Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st across, work 2 dc in last st, turn. (7 sts) Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in base of ch-3 (increase), dc in each st across, turn. (8 sts) Row 3 - 6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2. (12 sts) Row 7: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st across, ending dc2tog over last 2 sts, turn. (11 sts) Row 8: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), dc2tog over first 2 sts, dc in each st across, turn. (10 sts) Row 9 12: Repeat rows 7 and 8. (6 sts) Row 13 60: Repeat rows 1 12 four more times. Working through both thicknesses, sc last row and free loops of beginning chain together, being careful to join piece into a loop without twisting. Fasten off.

Beading (work for all five tiers) Thread 5 beads onto yarn. Working along pointed edge of tier, work [sc, ch1] twice into edge of each dc around, except at points, work [sc, ch 1, sc, slip bead, ch 1, sc, sc, ch 1] into dc, sl st in first sc to close round. Fasten off. Joining (Tiers are numbered 1 through 5, starting with 1 at the bottom) *Working along straight edge of first tier, work 124 sc evenly around edge (approximately 2 sc into edge of each dc), slip stitch in first sc to close round.* Sc in each st around for 9 rounds. Fasten off. With second tier, rep from * to *. With right sides facing you, sc through both thicknesses (Row 2 of current tier to the front with Row 11 of previous tier to the back) around, sl st in first sc to close round. Sc in each st around for 9 rounds. Fasten off. Attach each of the remaining tiers, as for the second tier, until all five layers are attached. Base Note: Yarn should be doubled for base. With wrong side facing and working from the bottom (bag upside-down), join yarn with slip stitch into any sc from back side of round 1 of tier 1. Sc in each st around, sl st in first sc to close round. (124 scs) Sc in each st around for 4 more rounds. On next round, lay purse flat and use stitch marker to denote right and left edge. For the next 5 rounds, sc in each st around, work sc2tog 3 times at each stitch marker. Fasten off. Holding right sides together, with purse base flat, sew seam. Handle Assembly Make a flap to be inserted into opening of each handbag handle. You will need 5 rows of 42 sc to fit the opening. With the handbag lying flat, right side out and front facing, you will see 62 sts of row 11 of fifth tier (top edge of handbag) facing you. Starting at the right edge, sl st in 11th st to join. Ch 1, sc into same st and in each of next 41 sts. (42 sts) Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, for 4 more rows. Fasten off. Turn handbag over. Repeat for back side. For the 20 unworked sts on either side of the handle flaps, work 5 rows of sc in the six middle sts. Fasten off. Make same flap on both sides. Insert front 42-sc flap into opening of one handle. Fold flap over, and line up last round of sc with row 7 of fifth tier (five rows down). With tapestry needle, sew each sc of 5th row of flap to each sc of 7th row of fifth tier. Repeat for opening of other handle. Sew each small side flap to 7th row of fifth tier in the same manner. Optional Lining

Cut 2 pieces of fabric to the size of the inside of the finished purse from the base up to the flap seam, plus seam allowance all the way around. Sew both pieces with right sides together, along bottom and both sides, from edge. Turn pouch inside out, so the right side is facing you. Turn top edge towards inside (wrong side) down and press with iron to make crease. Turn the handbag inside-out; slide the lining pouch over the handbag, like a pillow case, making sure that the wrong side of the handbag is touching the wrong side of the lining, and that the top creased edge of the lining is folded down inside the pouch. Pin the lining to the handbag at the seam where the handle assembly flaps were sewn to the walls of the bag. With needle and thread, whipstitch the lining to the handbag. Turn the handbag right-side out, and you should only see the right side of all seams inside the bag.

APRIL WAVY BAG (C)

[unfelted version] MATERIALS: Worsted Weight yarn, Main 3.5 ounces, Contrast 3/4 ounce Size H (5.0 mm) and G (4.5mm) crochet hooks APPROXIMATE MEASUREMENTS: Height 11 inches, Circumference at upper edge 25 NOTES: 1. Read through all instructions before beginning. 2. The bag should be worked in a fairly tight stitch. You may need to use a different sized hook to get a suitable stitch. 3. I cut the yarn for the color changes. It could be carried up without cutting, but since I wasnt going to line my bag I cut the yarn and wove in the ends. 4. When joining a new color, complete the joining slip stitch with the new color. 5. I used Red Heart Super Saver yarns. INSTRUCTIONS: Round 1: With H hook and main color, ch 2, 9 hdc into second stitch from hook. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (9 hdc) Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (18 hdc) Round 3: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (24) Round 4: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (32 hdc) Round 5: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 3 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join. with slipstitch in first hdc. (40 hdc) Round 6: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 4 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (48 hdc) Round 7: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (56 hdc)

Round 8: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 6 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (64 hdc) Round 9: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 7 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (72 hdc) Round 10: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 8 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (80 hdc) Rounds 11 to 12: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each stitch around. Join with a slipstitch in first hdc. (80 hdc) Round 13-14: Still working with main color, ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *hdc in 5 sts, sc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 5 sts, sc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts) Round 15-16: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 2 sts, *sc in 5 sts, hdc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 5 sts, hdc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts) Round 17-18: Change to main color, ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *hdc in 5 sts, sc in 5 sts, repeat from * around,, ending with hdc in 5 sts, sc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts) Round 19-20: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 2 sts, *sc in 5 sts, hdc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 5 sts, hdc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts) Round 21-22: Change to main color, ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *hdc in 5 sts, sc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 5 sts, sc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts) Round 23-24: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 2 sts, *sc in 5 sts, hdc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 5 sts, hdc in last 3 sts. Join with slipstitch in first st. (80 sts) Change to main color and work remainder of bag. Round 25: Ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *hdc in 5 sts, sc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 5 sts, sc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts) Round 26: Ch 1, hdc in 2 sts, *sc in 5 sts, hdc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 5 sts, hdc in last 3 sts. Join with slipstitch in first st. (80 sts) Rounds 27: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts) Round 28: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts) Round 29: Ch 1, sc in same st as join. *Ch 5, skip 5 sts, sc in next 5 sts. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 5, skip 5 sts, sc in 4 sts. Join with slipstitch in top of first st. [40 sc, 8 ch 5 loops] Round 30: Ch 1, sc in same st as join. *5 sc in loop, sc in next 5 sts. Repeat from * around, ending with 5 sc in loop, sc in 4 sts. Join with slipstitch in first st. [80 sc] Round 31: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and next st. *2 sc in next 3 sts, sc in next 7 sts. Repeat from * around, ending with 2 sc in next 3 sts, sc in 5 sts. Join with slipstitch in first st. [104 sc] Fasten off and weave in all ends. CORD FOR STRAP: Make 1 with main color Round 1: With G hook ch 2, 5 sc in second chain from hook. Do not join. Round 2-until 64 inches or desired length: Sc in back loop of next sc. Continue working sc in back loop until cord is 64 inches long. You will be working from the inside of a tube. Weave tail through the 5 sc and pull snug. Fasten off and weave in ends. Weave cord in and out of loops and tie ends in an overhand knot.

AUGUST - SEASIDE WAVY BAG

SEASIDE WAVY BAG

MATERIALS: Bag: worsted weight yarn, main 3.5 ounces, contrast 3/4 ounce Fish: worsted weight yarn small amounts of orange, white and black Seaweed: worsted weight yarn, small amount of green Bubbles: baby or sports weight yarn, small amount white Eye: worsted weight yarn, small amount of black. Or Black 3-D paint.

Crochet hooks: Size H (5.0 mm), G (4.5mm), F (4.0mm) and E (3.5mm) APPROXIMATE MEASUREMENTS (flattened): Height 11 inches, Circumference at upper edge 15 inches NOTES: 1. Read through all instructions before beginning. 2. Instructions are written for using two colors of yarn, the bag with the embelishments was made using only one color, Red Heart Ocean. The other is made with Ocean and Delft Blue. 3. The bag should be worked in a fairly tight stitch. You may need to use a different sized hook to get a suitable stitch. 4. I cut the yarn for the color changes. It could be carried up without cutting, but since I wasnt going to line my bag I cut the yarn and wove in the ends. 5. When joining with a slip stitch, pull the stitch tight until it almost disappears. 6. When joining a new color, complete the joining slip stitch with the new color. 7. I used Red Heart Super Saver yarns. 8. When you make the strap, to avoid strangulation, dont make it long enough the child can put their head through it. INSTRUCTIONS: Round 1: With H hook and main color, ch 2, 9 hdc into second stitch from hook. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (9 hdc) Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (18 hdc) Round 3: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (24) Round 4: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (32 hdc) Round 5: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 3 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join. with slipstitch in first hdc. (40 hdc) Round 6: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 4 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (48 hdc) Rounds 7-8: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each stitch around. Join with a slipstitch in first hdc. (48 hdc) Rounds 9-10: Still working with main color, ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *hdc in 4 sts, sc in 4 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 4 sts, sc in last 2 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (48 sts) Rounds 11-12: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 2 sts, *sc in 4 sts, hdc in 4 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 4 sts, hdc in last 2 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (48 sts) Rounds 13-14: Change to main color, ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *hdc in 4 sts, sc in 4 sts, repeat from * around,, ending with hdc in 4 sts, sc in last 2 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (48 sts) Rounds 15-16: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 2 sts, *sc in 4 sts, hdc in 4 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 4 sts, hdc in last 2 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (48 sts) Rounds 17-18: Change to main color, ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *hdc in 4 sts, sc in 4 sts, repeat from * around,

ending with hdc in 4 sts, sc in last 2 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (48 sts) Rounds 19-20: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 2 sts, *sc in 4 sts, hdc in 4 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 4 sts, hdc in last 2 sts. Join with slipstitch in first st. (48 sts) Rounds 21-22: Change to main color, ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *hdc in 4 sts, sc in 4 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 4 sts, sc in last 2 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (48 sts) Rounds 23-24: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 2 sts, *sc in 4 sts, hdc in 4 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 4 sts, hdc in last 2 sts. Join with slipstitch in first st. (48 sts) Change to main color and work remainder of bag. Rounds 25-26: Ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *hdc in 4 sts, sc in 4 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 4 sts, sc in last 2 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (48 sts) Round 27: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (48 sts) Round 28: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (48 sts) Round 29: Ch 1, sc in 4 sts, *Ch 4, skip 4 sts, sc in next 8 sts. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 4, skip 4 sts, sc in 4 sts. Join with slipstitch in top of first st. [32 sc, 4 ch 4 loops] Round 30: Ch 1, sc in 4 sts, *4 sc in loop, sc in next 8 sts. Repeat from * around, ending with 4 sc in loop, sc in 4 sts. Join with slipstitch in first st. [48 sc] Round 31: Ch 1, sc in 4 sts, *2 sc in next 3 sts, sc in next 9 sts. Repeat from * around, ending with 2 sc in next 3 sts, sc in 5 sts. Join with slipstitch in first st. [60 sc] Fasten off and weave in all ends. CORD FOR STRAP: Make 1 with main color Round 1: With G hook ch 2, 5 sc in second chain from hook. Do not join. Round 2-until 22 inches or desired length long: Sc in back loop of next sc. Continue working sc in back loop until cord is 22 (gently stretched) inches long. You will be working from the inside of a tube. Weave tail through the 5 sc and pull snug. Fasten off and weave in ends. Fold bag flat with holes aligned. Weave cord from the front through two holes, across the back and through the other two holes back out to the front. Tie ends in an overhand knot. EMBELLISHMENTS: FISH: Work one of the fish from the Learn Your Colors Fish Counting Toy in color of your choice. The stripes on the fish in the photo were worked in this color order. Rounds 1-3: Orange

Round 4: White Rounds 5-6: Orange Rounds 7-8: White Rounds 9-11: Orange Rounds 12-13: White Rounds 14-16: Orange The black stripes are the stitches used to sew the fish to the bag. SEAWEED: Leaf 1: Leaving a long tail for sewing, ch 25, slipstitch in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, hdc in remaining chains.Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Leaf 2: Leaving a long tail for sewing, ch 18, slipstitch in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch, hdc in remaining chains.Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the strands of seaweed to the bag. Give them a twist as sewing as shown in the photo. I started with the base of the seaweed on round 7 of the bag. BUBBLES: Small bubble: Using E hook and baby yarn, ch 2, 5 sc in second ch from hook. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Medium bubble: Using F hook and baby yarn, ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Large bubble: Using G hook and baby yarn, ch 2, 8 sc in second ch from hook. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. EYE: Make a French knot for eye. Or use 3-D paint. The photo shows the eye made with the 3-D paint.

LEARN YOUR COLORS FISH COUNTING TOY

LEARN YOUR COLORS FISH COUNTING TOY TIME: approx 12 minutes per fish MATERIALS: Approximately 15 yards of worsted weight yarn in each of these colors: Red, Yellow, Blue. Orange, Green, Purple, Pink, Brown, White, Black G (4.5 mm) Crochet Hook Yarn needle Polyfil Small amount of black yarn or 3-D paint for eyes Canvass Bag to store your fish SIZE: 4 inches

GAUGE: Unimportant, just needs to be tight enough the Polyfil doesnt show through. NOTES: 1. Read through instructions before beginning. 2. About the colors. The fish would be cuter with multicolored yarn or stripes, but when kids are learning the names of colors, that would be confusing. If you want to use different colors, use ones that there is no ambiguity about what color they are. 3. When joining with a slip stitch, pull the stitch tight until it almost disappears. 4. The first stitch of each round is made in the join.

5. sc2tog = Insert hook into stitch and draw up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch and draw up a loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook. INSTRUCTIONS: Round 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in second chain from hook. Join with a slip stitch in first sc. Pull slip stitch tight. (6 sc) Round 2: Ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st, repeat from * around. Join with a slip stitch in first sc. Pull slip stitch tight. (9 sc) Round 3: Ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, repeat from * around. Join with a slip stitch in first sc. Pull slip stitch tight. (12 sc) Round 4: Ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, repeat from * around. Join with a slip stitch in first sc. Pull slip stitch tight. (15 sc) Round 5: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a slip stitch in first sc. Pull slip stitch tight. (15 sc) Round 6: Ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, repeat from * around. Join with a slip stitch in first sc. Pull slip stitch tight. (18 sc) Rounds 7-9: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a slip stitch in first sc. Pull slip stitch tight. 18 sc) Round 10: Ch 1, *sc2tog, sc next 3 sts, repeat from * around to last 3 sts, sc2tog, sc in last st. Join with a slip stitch in first sc. Pull slip stitch tight. (14 sc)

Round 11: Ch 1, *sc2tog, sc next st, repeat from * around* to last 2 st, sc2tog. Join with a slip stitch in first sc. Pull slip stitch tight. (9 sc)

Stuff the fish lightly with Polyfil. Remember its a fish not a turnip, fish are sort of flat . Round 12: Ch 1, sc2tog around, sc in last st. Join with a slip stitch in first sc. Pull slip stitch tight. (5 sc) Round 13: Ch 1, 2 sc in ea st. Join with a slip stitch in first sc. Pull slip stitch tight. (10 sc) Round 14: Ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st, repeat from * around to last 2 sts, 2 sc in last 2 st. Join with a slip stitch in first sc. Pull slip stitch tight. (16 sc) Round 15: Ch 1, sc in ea st around. Join with a slip stitch in first sc. Pull slip stitch tight. (16 sc) Round 16: Flatten tail and hold together. Ch 2, sc through both layers (front and back of tail) to close tail. (8 sc) Fasten off and weave in ends. If you want to add eyes; use yarn and French knots or a small dot of 3-D paint on each side of fishs head.

DO NOT add beads or buttons as children could choke on them. The 3-D paint sticks very well, even if a child did pull them off they are too small to cause choking and arent toxic.

Comments: This basic fish pattern could easily be adapted to make a child's bath mitt, large enough for an adult hand to fit inside. Made with a soft cotton yarn, it would be a fun item to include in a baby shower basket. HEllo- I was wondering if I could make this into a finger puppet by leaving a hole in the bottom seam....if I did that, would you know which row I would do that in, and how? Thanks so much! uess you could leave out the stuffing and just fasten off beofre the last round. Have you seen my finger puppet patterns? They are listed on the the side bar under toys. The octopus is really cute made up.

Aussie Shoulder Bag

Finished Size: 12 inches wide x 10 inches high Skill Level: Intermediate. Materials: 2 skeins (244 yd) Lion Brand Lion Suede or 5/bulky weight yarn in Main Color (MC) 1 skein (144 yd) Lion Brand Lion Suede or 5/bulky weight yarn in Contrasting Color (CC) Size H-8 (5.0 mm) crochet hook Stitch markers Yarn needle 2 purse handles Purse snap SPECIAL STITCH: Reverse Single Crochet (sc) Worked as regular single crochet, except the hook is inserted into the next stitch to the right of the current stitch instead of the next stitch to the left. This creates a corded look. PANELS make 2. Worked sideways. With MC, ch 36. Row 1 (RS). Sc in 2nd ch from hook and ea ch across. 35 sc. *The first stitch in this row is on the top edge of the panel, while the last stitch is on the bottom edge. Row 2 (WS). Ch 1; turn. 2 sc in flo of 1st sc, 1 sc in flo of next sc and ea sc across to last sc, 2 sc in flo of last sc. 37 sc. Row 3. Ch 1; turn. 2 sc in flo of 1st sc, 1 sc in flo of next sc and ea sc across. 38 sc.

Rows 4 & 5. Rep rows 2 and 3. 41 sc. Row 6. Ch 1; turn. Sc in flo of ea sc across to last sc; 2 sc in flo of last sc. 42 sc. Row 7. Ch 1; turn. Sc in flo of ea sc across. Row 8. Ch 1; turn. Sc in flo of ea sc across to last 2 sc; dec 1 sc in flo of last 2 sc. 41 sc. Row 9. Ch 1; turn. Dec 1 sc in flo of first 2 sc, 1 sc in flo of next sc and ea sc across. 40 sc. Rows 10-15. Rep rows 8 and 9 three times. 34 sc. Row 16. Rep row 8. 33 sc. Row 17. Ch 1; turn. Sc in flo of 1st sc; place stitch marker. Sc in flo of next sc and each sc across. Rows 18-22. Ch 1; turn. Sc in flo of ea sc across. Row 23. Rep row 17. Rows 24-29. Ch 1; turn. Sc in flo of ea sc across. Row 30. Ch 1; turn. Sc in flo of ea sc across; place stitch marker. Rows 31-35. Ch 1; turn. Sc in flo of ea sc across. Row 36. Rep row 30. Row 37. Ch 1; turn. Sc in flo of ea sc across. Row 38. Ch 1; turn. Sc in flo of ea sc across to last sc; 2 sc in flo of last sc. 34 sc. Row 39. Ch 1; turn. 2 sc in flo of 1st sc, 1 sc in flo of next sc and ea sc across. 35 sc. Rows 40-45. Rep rows 38 and 39 three times. 41 sc. Row 46. Rep row 38. 42 sc. Row 47. Ch 1; turn. Sc in flo of ea sc across. Row 48. Ch 1; turn. Sc in flo of ea sc across to last 2 sc; dec 1 sc in flo of last 2 sc. 41 sc. Row 49. Ch 1; turn. Dec 1 sc in flo of first 2 sc, 1 sc in flo of next sc and ea sc across. 40 sc. Row 50. Ch 1; turn. Dec 1 sc in flo of first 2 sc, 1 sc in flo of next sc and ea sc across to last 2 sc, dec 1 sc in flo of last 2 sc. 38 sc. Row 51. Rep row 49. 37 sc. Row 52. Rep row 50; finish off. 35 sc.

DECORATIVE BRAID make 2. Worked from bottom to top. With MC, ch 5. Row 1 (RS). Sc in 2nd ch from hook and ea ch across. 4 sc. Row 2 (WS). Ch 1; turn. Sc in first 2 sc, ch 8, sc in last 2 sc. Keep chains to right side of work. Row 3. Rep row 1. Rows 4-31. Rep rows 2 and 3. Row 32. Ch 1; turn. Sc in ea sc across. Do not finish off. To work braid, pull ch-8 loop from row 4 through ch-8 loop from row 2. Then pull ch-8 loop from row 6 through ch-8 loop from row 4. Continue working in this fashion, pulling each ch-8 loop through the ch-8 loop from the previous row, until all ch-8 loops are braided together. Row 33. Ch 1; turn. Sc in first sc, (1 sc in next sc and ch-8 loop from previous row together) twice, sc in last sc. Finish off.

PURSE ASSEMBLY To make pleats, fold the top edge of one of the panels so that the first two stitch markers placed are aligned; whip stitch pleat into place across the top edge. Repeat with the second two stitch markers placed, and with second panel. Attach one half of the purse snap to the top center of one of the panels, with the snap facing the wrong side of the panel. Whip stitch decorative braid onto the center of the right side of the panel, making sure the braid covers the back of the snap at the top edge. Repeat with second panel. With wrong sides facing, whip stitch the two panels together down the first side, across the bottom, and up the second side.

EDGING With MC, join with sl st at side seam. Rnd 1. Ch 1; do not turn. Sc evenly around. Join with sl st in first sc. Rnd 2. Change to CC. Ch 1; do not turn. Work 1 reverse sc in blo of ea sc around. At each of the four peaks, work (1 reverse sc, ch 3, 1 reverse sc) in same stitch for purse handles. Finish off. Weave in all ends. Slip handles into ch-3 loops of last rnd of edging.

Abbreviations:

blo back loops only CC contrasting color ch chain dec decrease ea each flo front loops only MC main color mm millimeter rep repeat rnd round RS right side sc single crochet sl st slip stitch WS wrong side yd yard

Care Instructions: Machine-wash warm water, gentle cycle. Gently squeeze; air dry flat. Do not bleach.

patterns (24) Vintage Pattern Copyrights (1) Yarn is NOT a Cat Toy (2)

MY BASKETWEAVE BAG

MATERIALS: Worsted weight yarn 3 oz for bag and small amounts of green, yellow and color of your choice for flower CD for base of bag H (5.0mm) crochet hook Yarn needle for weaving ends GAUGE: 4 dc = 1 inch SIZE: 6 inches in diameter and 8 inches tall INSTRUCTIONS: INSIDE BASE: Round 1: Ch 3, (do not count as first dc) 12 dc in the 3rd ch from hook. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (12 sts) Round 2: Ch 2 (do not count as first dc from now on), 2 dc in each st. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (24 sts) Round 3: Ch 2, (dc in 1 st, 2 dc in next st) repeat around. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (36 sts) Round 4: Ch 2, (dc in 2 sts, 2 dc in next st) repeat around. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (48 sts) Fasten off, weave ends into back of work. OUTSIDE BASE: Round 1-4: Repeat rounds 1 - 4 of inside base but DO NOT fasten off. Ch1. Round 5: Put both pieces together, wrong sides facing each other. Working through both layers, insert hook through same st as slipstitch and through any sc on the other layer. Work a sc in each st around. Insert CD before closing. Join with a slipstitch in first sc. (48 sts) Round 6: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), dc in each st. Join with a slipstitch around first dc as if to front post. (48 sts) Round 7: Ch 3, fpdc around 2 sts, [bpdc around 3 sts, fpdc around 3 sts] repeat around, ending with bpdc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch around ch 3 as if to front post. (48 sts) Round 8: Ch 3, fpdc around 2 sts, [bpdc around 3 sts, fpdc around 3 sts] repeat around, ending with bpdc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch around ch 3 as if to back post. (48 sts) Round 9: Ch 3, bpdc around 2 sts, [fpdc around 3 sts, bpdc around 3 sts] repeat around, ending with fpdc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch around ch 3 as if to back post. (48 sts) Round 10: Ch 3, bpdc around 2 sts, [fpdc around 3 sts, bpdc around 3 sts] repeat around, ending with fpdc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch around ch 3 as if to front post. (48 sts) Round 11: Ch 3, fpdc around 2 sts, [bpdc around 3 sts, fpdc around 3 sts] repeat around, ending with bpdc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch around ch 3 as if to front post. (48 sts) Round 12: Ch 3, fpdc around 2 sts, [bpdc around 3 sts, fpdc around 3 sts] repeat around, ending with bpdc

in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch around ch 3 as if to back post. (48 sts) Round 13: Ch 3, bpdc around 2 sts, [fpdc around 3 sts, bpdc around 3 sts] repeat around, ending with fpdc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch around ch 3 as if to back post. (48 sts) Round 14: Ch 3, bpdc around 2 sts, [fpdc around 3 sts, bpdc around 3 sts] repeat around, ending with fpdc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch around ch 3 as if to front post. (48 sts) Round 15: Ch 3, fpdc around 2 sts, [bpdc around 3 sts, fpdc around 3 sts] repeat around, ending with bpdc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch around ch 3 as if to front post. (48 sts) Round 16: Ch 3, fpdc around 2 sts, [bpdc around 3 sts, fpdc around 3 sts] repeat around, ending with bpdc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch around ch 3 as if to back post. (48 sts) Round 17: Ch 3, bpdc around 2 sts, [fpdc around 3 sts, bpdc around 3 sts] repeat around, ending with fpdc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch around ch 3 as if to back post. (48 sts) Round 18: Ch 3, bpdc around 2 sts, [fpdc around 3 sts, bpdc around 3 sts] repeat around, ending with fpdc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch around ch 3 as if to front post. (48 sts) Round 19: Ch 3, fpdc around 2 sts, [bpdc around 3 sts, fpdc around 3 sts] repeat around, ending with bpdc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch around ch 3 as if to front post. (48 sts) Round 20: Ch 3, fpdc around 2 sts, [bpdc around 3 sts, fpdc around 3 sts] repeat around, ending with bpdc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch around ch 3 as if to back post. (48 sts) Round 21(eyelet round): Ch 4, [skip 1 st, dc in next st, ch 1] repeat around, ending with slipstitch in third chain of ch 4. Round 22: Ch 1, sc in same stitch as join, *ch 2, sc in next dc*, repeat around. Join with a slipstitch in first sc. (48 sts) Fasten off and weave in ends. DRAWSTRINGS: Make 2 Ch 76, slipstitch in 2nd chain from hook and each remaining chain. Fasten off and weave in ends. Weave drawstrings in and out of eyelet round starting on opposite sides. Tie the ends of drawstrings in an overhand knot about inch from the ends.

FLOWERS AND LEAVES: Make any number of flowers and leaves that pleases you. SIMPLE FLOWER: Round 1: Ch 3, in 3rd ch from hook 1 dc, ch 2, slipstitch, (ch 2, 1 dc, ch 2, slipstitch) 4 times. (5 petals). Round 2: Working in back of round 1, ch 1 (slipstitch under back bars of dc, ch 2) repeat around. Join with slipstitch in first ch 2 loop. (5 loops) Round 3: Ch 2, 3 dc, ch 2, slipstitch in first ch 2 loop. (slipstitch, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 2, slipstitch) 4 times. (5 petals) Round 4: Working in back of round 3, ch 1 (slipstitch under back bars of second dc, ch 3) repeat around. Join with slipstitch in first ch 3 loop. (5 loops) Round 5: Ch 2, 4 dc, ch 2, slipstitch in first ch 3 loop, (slipstitch, ch 2, 4 dc, ch 2, slipstitch) in each loop around. (5 petals) Fasten off. FLOWER CENTER: Ch 2, 3 sc in in 2nd ch from hook, slipstitch in first sc. Sew flower center to center of flower. LEAF LARGE: Ch 9, slipstitch in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in each of last 5 ch, ch 3, slipstitch in same ch as last dc, working on opposite side ch 3, dc in same ch and next 4 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, slipstitch in last ch. Fasten off leaving an 8 inch tail for sewing to bag.

LEAF MEDIUM: Ch 7, slipstitch in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in each of last 3 ch, ch 3, slipstitch in same ch as last dc, working on opposite side ch 3, dc in same ch and next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, slipstitch in last ch. Fasten off leaving an 8 inch tail for sewing to bag. LEAF SMALL: Ch 5, slipstitch in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in last ch, ch 3, slipstitch in same ch as last dc, working on opposite side ch 3, dc in same ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, slipstitch in last ch. Fasten off leaving an 8 inch tail for sewing to bag. FINISHING: Sew flowers and leaves to bag.

Silk purse
Use a shiny silk thread in light gold to crochet a beautiful heirloom-quality bag. Small beads also compliment the design of this lace crochet bag pattern.

Materials: Crochet Hook; steel, size 4 Thread: 100m of Silk Serica we used color 2013 Light Gold small, coil-less safety pin (regular safety pins will snag silk thread) optional: 80 beads to match or complement thread color fabrics: lining 12-inch square of matching satin; interlining 12-inch square of soft lining fabric one tapestry needle size 22 or size to fit through beads and thread Gauge: 8 sc (across top opening of bag) = 1 inch Instructions: Ch 12, form into a ring with 1 sl st into first ch. ROW 1: Ch 3, 35 dc in ring. End with 1 slip st in top of starting ch. Ch 1, turn. ROW 2: Working in back lp of ea dc, work 1 sc in ea dc around. (36 sc counting starting ch of 1, as 1st sc.) Turn. ROW 3: Working in back lp only, 1 sc in ea sc. End with 1 sl st in 1st sc. Do NOT turn at end of row. ROW 4: Ch 3, sk 1st sc, work in both lps of ea sc (1 dc in ea of next 3 sc, ch 3) 9 times, ch 3, 1 sc in ea of next 7 sc, sk last sc. ROW 5: (Ch 3, 2 dc in center dc of next 3-dc block, ch 2, 2 dc in same st, [dc shell made] 9 times) ch 3, 2 sc in ch-3 sp, 1 sc in ea of next 7 sc, 2 sc in last ch-3 sp. (11 sc in solid block of sc at top of purse + 9 dc shells) ROW 6: Ch 3, (shell in center of next shell, ch 6.) 9 times, ch 3, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea of next 11 sc, 2 sc in last lp. (15 sc in solid block + 9 shells). ROW 7: (Ch 3, 9 dc in center of next shell, ch 3, 1 sc in ch-6 lp) 9 times, ch 3, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea of next 15 sc, 2 sc in last lp. (19 sc + 9-dc shells.) ROW 8: (Ch 12, 1 sc in 5th dc of ea 9-dc group,) 9 times, ch 3, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea of next 19 sc, 2 sc in last lp. (23 sc + 9 ch-12 lps.) ROW 9: Ch 3, (12 dc in ea lp) 9 times, ch 3, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea of next 23 sc, 2 sc in last lp. (27 sc + 9, 12-dc groups.) ROW 10: Ch 3, 1 dc in ea of next 3 dc, (ch 3, 1 dc in ea of next 6 dc) 16 times, ch 3, 1 dc in ea of next 3 dc, ch 3, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea of next 27 sc, 2 sc in last lp. (31 sc, + 17 groups of 6 dc + 3 dc to start and finish round.)

ROW 11: Ch 3, dc-shell in first sp, (dc-shell in next lp, ch 4) ch 3, 2 sc in last lp, 1 sc in ea sc, 2 sc in last lp. (35 sc + 18 shells.) ROW 12: Ch 3, (shell in center of next lp, ch 5) 18 times, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea sc, 2 sc last lp, ch 3. (39 sc + 18 shells.) ROW 13: (Ch 3, 2 dc in next shell, ch 4, 1 sc in 1st ch of ch-4 ch, [1 picot made] 4 times in same shell, 2 dc in same shell, [1 large picot shell made] ch 3, insert hk under both ch lps of last 2 rounds and work 1 sc) 18 times, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea sc, 2 sc in last lp. (43 sc + 18 lge picot shells). End off thread. Repeat rnds 1-13 to make second half of bag identical to the first. Beads Thread 76 beads onto a spool of Silk Serica thread. (Reserve 4 rem beads for drawstring handles.) Choose a tapestry needle that will pass through both the bead eye while large enough to thread needle with silk. Crochet both halves together to include beads as follows: Hold both halves together, one over the other, wrong sides facing to join. Ch 2, 1 sc in 1st picot of front half of bag, ch 2, 1 sc in 1st picot of back half of bag, ch 2, 1 sc in next picot of front half of bag, bring 1 bead upward on thread holding it firmly against the hk, sl st to hold bead in place, ch 2, 1 sc in next picot of back half of bag. Repeat, around the edges of both halves of bag, placing a bead after completing ea sc on front half of bag. Make sure that you are always joining the picots from one half of the bag to the corresponding picot of the second. You should have 4 beads for each picot in ea large picot shell. Rep until both sides are joined together leaving sc sections separate to form opening at top of bag. Do not cut thread. Edging: Work around top opening of bag only using the strand of silk thread still in place: RND 1: Ch 5, (sk 2 dc, 1 dc in next lp) twice, ch 5, 1 dc in sp between next 4-dc group, ch 5, sk next 2 dc, 1 dc in next lp, ch 5 (1 dc in next sc and in ea 3rd sc around bag opening,) end with ch 5, 1 dc in last sp, ch 5, sk 2 dc, 1 dc between last 2 dc, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch. (42 lps) RND 2: Ch 3, (1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in 1st lp, ch 3, 1 sc in next lp, ch 3, dc-shell in next lp. Rep from around. (21 dc-shells.) RND 3: Sl st to reach next ch 3 sp in center of shell, ch 3, (counts as 1st dc of 1st shell only, complete lge picot shell as in row 13, sk next 2 lps, 1 lge picot shell in ea ch 2-sp of ea shell of prev rnd. End with 1 sl st in 1st st of 1st shell, end off. Weave in all cut ends. Draw-string handles: make 4 Using same hk and silk thread, crochet a chain 32-inches long. Turn, ch 1, sc into ea ch to end. Cut thread leaving 5-inch tails. Starting at side seam of bag, thread strip in and out of the lowest row of shell spaces on one side of bag. Withdraw strip at opposite edge of side seam. Pull strip until even at both sides. Turn purse and repeat for back half of purse. Staring at side seam of bag, thread 3rd strip in and out of the row of shell spaces just above the first, taking care to alternate the spaces used with the previous strip. End at side seam. Rep for 4th strip. Pull strips evenly so they extend beyond the sides of the purse evenly. Close handles: Take cut ends of silk on ea strip and using the needle, thread 1 bead onto the end of the silk. Rep for second strip on same side of bag. Join ends of strips by passing the needle through the eye of both beads 2 or 3 times as space allows in the bead hole. Cut rem thread ends and weave them into the sc portion of each strip. Rep for opposite of bag. Bag closes by pulling each dbl handle on ea side to gather. To open, pull gathers apart. Dry block by pinning purse and handles on blocking board. Be sure to use rust-proof pins to avoid leaving marks on silk. Cover with a damp cloth for an hour or so. Remove cloth and allow bag to dry thoroughly. Lining and interlining: Choose matching or contrasting color of heavy satin for lining. Cut 2. Choose a lighter weight in harmonious color for interlining. Cut 2. Do not use heavy satin for both layers or purse will become stiff and may lose its shape.

Cut fabric using blocked purse as a pattern, allowing at least one-inch of seam allowance around the edge of the purse. Baste the two pieces of satin together, right sides facing. Turn right outside and drop lining into purse. Adjust seam allowances as needed to completely fill the purse without wrinkles. Remove satin lining from purse and stitch around by hand or machine to fit purse. Trim excess fabric in seam allowance. Turn right side out and press seams well around. Set aside. Cut interlining using the same pattern shape as you used for the final shape/size of satin lining. Right sides facing, sew around making seam allowance 1/8 smaller than lining. This allows the weight of the contents of the bag to be borne by the interlining rather than to stretch the lace itself. Do not turn interlining inside out. Instead, drop it into the lining so seam allowances of interlining lie against the wrong side of lining. Use your hand to make sure both layers are even throughout. Last, turn the seam allowances of both lining and interlining to fit the last row of the sc crocheted portion of the bag. Manipulate so that both seam allowances face each other, leaving neat folds of each fabric layer at top. Pin with long silk pins around the opening of bag. Ease as needed to avoid tucks as lining is just a bit larger than interlining. When both layers are smooth and pinned around the bags opening, using matching silk thread and tiny whipped stitches, attach both fabric layers as one around the crochet portion of bag. Make sure not to catch the handle strips into your stitching otherwise the draw-strings will not be able to be pulled together to open or close. They must slide easily through the spaces of the lace.

Joyce's BLUE CLUTCH BAG

Joyce A. Hodnett, Copyright 2005 Materials: Cotton Yarn, 1 ball, size G hook, tapestry needle, & Velcro Finished Size: Approx. 8 inches long X 6 inches high, folded Special Stitches Used: Beginning V-Stitch: Chain 4, dc in same space. V-Stitch (V-St): Dc, ch 1, dc in space indicated. Beginning Shell: Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc in space indicated. Shell: 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc in space indicated. HDC Decrease (hdc dec): YO hook, insert hook into stitch indicated, draw up a loop, insert hook in next stitch, YO and draw thru all loops on hook. Back Loops Only: BLO Rnd 1: Chain 30, 3 sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in the next 27 chains, 3 sc in last ch (33) Working along opposite side of beginning ch, sc in the next 27 chs; do not join; mark the beginning of each round (60 sc) Rnd 2: *(sc in the next sc) 3 times, *sc in the next 28 sc; repeat between * once more, 2 sc in the next 26 sc. Do not join rounds (68) Rnd 3: *(2 sc in the next sc) 6 times, *sc in the next 27 sc;

repeat between * once more, sc in the next 27 sc. (78) Rnd 4: Sc in each sc around. (78) Rnd 5: Sc in the BLO of the next 4 sc, *2 sc in BLO of the next sc, sc in the BLO of the next 4 sc, 2 sc in BLO of the next sc*, sc in the next 34 stitches. Repeat between *, sc in the next 28 sts, Join with slst in both loops of the next stitch. Rnds 6-9: Sc in each sc around. Join with sl st in the next st. (83) Rnd 10: Ch 4, dc in the same stitch (Beginning V-St made), skip the next 2 sc, *work dc, ch 1, dc in the next sc (V-st made). Skip the next 2 sc, repeat from *around. Join in the 3rd ch of beg. ch-4. (28 V-Sts). Rnd 11: Sl st into the next ch-1 sp, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc (Beg Shell made), in the same sp, *work 1 sc in the next V-St sp. In the next V-St sp work a shell (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc). Repeat from * around. Join to the 1st ch of beginning ch-3. Rnd 12: Sl st into the 1st ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in the same sp, ch 1, *work a V-St in the next sc, ch 1, sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Repeat from *around, join to the beginning sc. Rnd 13: Ch 4, dc in the same ch-1 sp, ch 1, (make a sc in the next V-St, ch 1, make a V-St in the next sc, ch 1) around. Join with sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4. Rnd 14: Sl st in the sp of the next V-St, make a beginning shell, (sc in the next sc, shell in the next V-St) around. Join with sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. Rnd 15: Sl st into the next ch sp, ch 1, sc in the same sp, (ch 1, make a V-St in the next sc, ch 1, sc in the next ch-1 sp) around, ch 1, join with a sl st to the 1st sc. Rnd 16: Sc in each sc, each sp, and each dc around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc. Rnd 17: Ch 2, (hdc in the next sc) around. Join with sl st to beginning ch-2. (84) Rnd 18-22: Ch 2, hdc in each hdc around. Join as before. Finish off. Weave in ends. FLAP: Row 1: Fold the purse body so that the front and back are even across the top. Flatten it so that both sides are also even and the back is facing you. Attach yarn with a sl st at the 1st st at the top right side edge (the back of the purse is still facing you), and hdc across so that you will stop where it will be even at the left side edge (approximately 40 hdc across). This makes the beginning of the Flap. You will understand when you get to that point. At the end this Row 1, chain 2 and turn. Rows 2-4: Hdc in each hdc across the back Flap, making a hdc in last chain 2. Ch 2, turn. Row 5: Hdc in each hdc across with last hdc in the ch 2, turn. Rows 6-8: Work a hdc decrease over the first 2 hdc, hdc across to the last 2 hdc, hdc decrease in the last 2 hdc. Ch 2, turn. At the end of Row 8, ch 1, turn. Row 9: With the Flap open and right side facing you, work sc evenly across the Flap and around entire bag opening edges. Sl st in the beginning ch 1 to join. Fasten off. Weave in ends. CLOSURE: I used Velcro as closures for this bag: Sew approximately a 1 inch square of Velcro near each end edge and at the center on the wrong side of the Flap and to the outside face of the bag to correspond in placement.

Pansies Flower Basket Edging

Free Crochet Pattern by KarensVariety.com

Materials: Fine tatting or crochet thread White, Green, Yellow, Black No. 12 or 13 steel crochet hook Abbreviations: ch chain st stitch sk skip sl st slip stitch sc single crochet dc double crochet p(s) picot(s)

Row 1: Begin at lower edge of basket, in green, ch 9, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each of next 4 chs, 2 dc in last ch. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), turn. Dc in same place as ch 3, dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in last dc. Row 3: Ch 3, turn, dc in same place, dc in each of next 8 dc, 2 dc in last dc. Fasten off. Row 4: Join white where green was fastened off. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc in same place, * ch 2, sk 1 dc, 2 dc in next dc, repeat from * across making 6 groups of 2 dcs. Row 5: Ch 3, turn, dc in same place, * ch 2, 2 dc over ch 2 lp of previous row, repeat from * across, ending with ch 2, 2 dc in last dc of row, making 7 groups. Row 6: Ch 3, turn, dc in same place, * ch 2, 2 dc over ch 2 lp of previous row, repeat from * across, ending with ch 2, 2 dc in last dc, making 8 groups. Row 7: Repeat Row 6 making 9 groups of dc. Row 8: Repeat Row 6 making 10 groups of dc. Fasten off.

Row 9: Join black (for center of pansies) where white was fastened off, ch 6 (counts as a dc and ch 2), dc in next dc, * (ch 2, dc) 3 times over ch 2 sp, (ch 2, dc in dc) twice in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, repeat from * once, * * (ch 2, dc) 3 times over ch 2 sp, (ch 2, dc in dc) twice, repeat from * * once, 4 dcs over next ch 2 sp with a ch 2 between, (dc in dc, ch 2) twice, 3 dcs over next ch 2 sp with ch 2 between, (dc in dc, ch 2) twice, 3 dc over sp with ch 2 between, (dc, ch 2, dc) in same dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, 3 dc over sp with ch 2 between, (dc, ch 3, dc) in same dc, ch 2, dc in dc, ch 2, 3 dc over sp with ch 2 between, dc in dc, ch 2, dc in dc. You should have 52 dcs with ch 2 between. Fasten off. Row 10: Join variegated yellow in ch 3 of ch 5 of black. (Sc, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 1, sc) in each of next 7 sps, count back 5 groups and sc between the 5th and 6th group - this forms a small pansy. Repeat across making 7 small pansies with 2 petals between each. Fasten off. Edge Around Basket: Join green at top corner of basket, 3 sc, ch 3 for a p, repeat down side of basket until 5 ps are made, then sc around lower portion of basket, then make 5 ps on other side (near top of basket) to match first half of basket. Do not cut thread but make a ch of 48 for handle, fasten to other corner of basket and make 60 sc over ch 48. Fasten off. Join shaded yellow in center of handle, * ch 8, sl st in first ch, repeat from * 3 more times making 4 ch lps in all for the bow. Sew basket to handkerchief corner, cutting away that portion under the basket. Make a small hem. Edge Around Handkerchief: In white, work a row of sc around handkerchief. Fasten off. Join yellow at a corner of basket, * ch 5, sk 3 sc, sc in 4th sc on handkerchief, (ch 5, sl st into same sc) 3 times, ch 5, sk 3 sc, sc in 4th sc, repeat from * around handkerchief. Join and fasten off. Reprints: Please feel free to link to this page. Please do not reproduce this pa

Crocheted Work Basket - Vintage / Antique Pattern from 1940s

MATERIALS: Lily Skytone Mercerized Crochet Cotton1 ball Cream and 2 balls Skipper Blue (or other desired colors). Lily Pearl Cotton Size 31 ball each Yellow and Lt. Green. Crochet Hook size 3. BASE: Use 2 strands of Blue Row 1: Ch 43, 4 dc in 5th st from hook, dc in next 37 sts, 9 dc in end st, in other side of chain, dc in next 37 sts, 4 dc in next st, sl st in top of starting chain. ROW 2: Ch 3, turn, dc in same st, * (2 dc in next st) 4 times, dc in 37 dc, (2 dc in next st) 4 times, * 3 dc in next st. Repeat from * to *. Dc in next st, sl st in 1st 3-ch. ROW 3: Ch 3, turn, dc in same st, * (dc in next st, 2 dc in next) 5 times, dc in 35 dc, (2 dc in next, dc in next) 5 times, * 3 dc in next. Repeat from * to *. Dc in next st, sl st in 1st 3-ch. ROW 4: Ch 3, turn, 2 dc in next dc, holding final 2 loops on hook, draw 2 strands of Cream thru these 2 loops, completing dc. Working over Blue and starting end of Cream, * 2 dc in next dc, dc in next, 2 dc in next, * pull up Blue taut and thru final 2 loops of last dc and repeat from * to *, working over Cream. Make 3 more blocks, alternating colors. (With Blue, dc in next 5 dc, with Cream, dc in next 5 dc) for 7 more blocks. Alternating colors, repeat from * to * for 11 more blocks. Continue in same way. End with 2 Blue dc, sl st in 1st 3-ch, joining Cream. ROW 5: With Cream, ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 dc, then alternating colors, make a 5-dc-block in Blue over each Cream block and a Cream block over each Blue block. End with 2 Cream dc, sl st in 3-ch. Fasten off Cream. (Turn and make dc around in Blue, widening at ends to keep work flat) for 4 rows, then a row of sc. Fasten off. Steam and press on back. LID: Repeat Base but add edge of Ch 1, (hdc in next sc, 2 dc in next, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next) around. Fasten off. SIDES: Use 2 strands of Blue Row 1: Ch 240 and join, ch 3, 239 dc on chain, sl st in 3-ch. ROW 2: Ch 3, dc in next 4 dc, (5 dc in Cream, 5 dc in Blue) around. With Cream, sl st in 1st 3-ch. ROW 3: Ch 3, dc in 4 dc, (5 dc in Blue, 5 dc in Cream) around. With Blue, sl st in 1st 3-ch. Fasten off Cream. ROW 4: With Blue, ch 3, dc around and join, sl st in next dc. ROW 5: Ch 3, 8 Blue dc, then using 1 strand of Pearl Cotton, make (5 Yellow dc, 2 Blue dc, 4 Green dc, 9 Blue dc) around. With Green, sl st in 3-ch. ROW 6: Ch 3, 2 Green dc, (4 Blue, 3 Yellow, 1 Blue, 1 Green, 1 Blue, 3 Yellow, 4 Blue, 3 Green) around. With Blue, sl st in 3-ch. ROW 7: Ch 3, 2 Blue dc, (4 Green, 2 Blue, 5 Yellow, 9 Blue) around. With Blue, sl st in 3-ch. Fasten off Yellow and Green. Repeat Row 4 three times, then a row of sc. Fasten off. Sew lower edge to Base.

BRACELET: With Yellow, ch 2, 9 sc in starting st, sc in back loop of each sc around and around for 8 1/2". Fasten off. Lap ends and sew together. Make a 2nd ring in Green. Sew 1/4" apart crosswise on center of lid. BUTTON: With Blue, ch 2, sc in starting st. In back loops, (2 sc in each sc) 6 times, (sc in next, 2 sc in next) 3 times, sc in each sc for 2 rows, (sc in every 2nd st) 10 times, stuff hard with cotton and close top with sl sts. Sew to center-front 1/2" below top. Make a chain in Blue to fit loosely over button, skip last st, sl st in each remaining st. Sew under edge of lid above button. Stiffen basket by rubbing and patting with a cloth dipped in hot, thick, cooked starch. Cut a heavy white cardboard oval to fit inside base, and weight down. Weight down Lid too, to keep it flat. Cut a long strip of thin cardboard and roll to fit inside the basket to brace sides. Fasten another strip snugly around outside. Pull sides up to an even height . When perfectly dry, sew lid to sides between 8 scallops across back edge. Give 3 coats of White Shellac (purchase at hardware store; regular shellac is quite yellow-orange). Posted by Tina "Crochet" Calabrese at 9:42 AM Links to this post

Bangle Bag

Materials DK yarn or thread, 2 x 3inch plastic bangles, 4.00mm hook Notes I inserted beads to make a pattern as I went along. If you do this, thread the beads on before you start. Alternatively, you could cross stitch a design on afterwards.

UK Instructions 1st Side Row 1: Ss yarn to bangle, 20 dc on to bangle, turn. (20 sts) Row 2: Ch 1, dc in each dc, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, dc in next 5 dc, (2 dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc) 4 times, dc in next 3 dc, turn. (24 sts) Row 4: Ch 1, dc in each dc, turn. Row 5: Ch 1, dc in next 7 dc, (2 dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc) 4 times, dc in next 5 dc, turn. (28 sts) Row 6: Ch 1, dc in each dc, turn. Row 7: Ch 1, dc in next 7 dc, (2 dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc) 4 times, dc in next 5 dc, turn. (32 sts) Row 8: Ch 1, dc in each dc, turn. Row 9: Ch 1, dc in next 4 dc, (2 dc in next dc, dc in next 6 dc) 4 times, turn. (36 sts) Row 10: Ch 1, dc in each dc, turn. Row 11: Ch 1, dc in next 12 dc, (2 dc in next dc, dc in next 11 dc) twice, turn. (38 sts) Row 12: Ch 1, dc in each dc, turn. Row 13: Ch 1, dc in next 13 dc, (2 dc in next dc, dc in next 11 dc) twice, dc in next dc, turn. (40 sts) Rows 14 & 15: Ch 1, dc in each dc, turn. Fasten off. 2nd Side Follow directions for 1st side. Do not fasten off, continue as follows. Row 16: Ch 1, dc in each dc across this side then across 1st side, ss to 1st ch, turn. (80 sts) Continue working on these 80 sts until bag is the size you want it. Fold in half and working through both sides together,

US Instructions 1st Side Row 1: slst yarn to bangle, 20 sc on to bangle, turn. (20 sts) Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 4 times, sc in next 3 sc, turn. (24 sts) Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc, turn. Row 5: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 4 times, sc in next 5 sc, turn. (28 sts) Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each sc, turn. Row 7: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 4 times, sc in next 5 sc, turn. (32 sts) Row 8: Ch 1, sc in each sc, turn. Row 9: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc) 4 times, turn. (36 sts) Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each sc, turn. Row 11: Ch 1, sc in next 12 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc) twice, turn. (38 sts) Row 12: Ch 1, sc in each sc, turn. Row 13: Ch 1, sc in next 13 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc) twice, sc in next sc, turn. (40 sts) Rows 14 & 15: Ch 1, sc in each sc, turn. Fasten off. 2nd Side Follow directions for 1st side. Do not fasten off, continue as follows. Row 16: Ch 1, sc in each sc across this side then across 1st side, slst to 1st ch, turn. (80 sts) Continue working on these 80 sts until bag is the size you want it. Fold in half and working through both sides together,

dc in each dc, fasten off. (40 sts)

sc in each sc, fasten off. (40 sts)

My Life in Knots Tunisian Cable Clutch-pattern with picture

Tunisian Cable Clutch By Stephanie Copy Right 2007 free to use pattern for personal use

Materials: 6.00 mm Hook (I used a Boyes size J...guage is not important here) 3 Oz any worsted weight yarn large eye needle 1 yard 1/2 inch satin yarn 1-2 Stitch holder, second hook or scrap yarn on needle to hold stitches Stitch Key: (Following links all go to nextstitch.com where you can view a video) For this bag you will need to know how to do the following stitches in crochet Crochet Chain (ch) Single Crochet (sc) Half Double Crochet (hdc) slip stitch (sl) single crochet decrease (scd) Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS - also known as afghan stitch or tunisian basic stitch) Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS) Beginning the Bag chain 43 Row 1: Insert hook into 2nd loop from hook, yo and pull up a loop.* Insert hook in next loop, yo and pull up a loop.* Continue from * to * to the end, you should have 43 loops on the hook. TIP: if using a standard crochet hook place a rubber band wrapped many times around the unused end to keep loops from falling off Work off loops: Now yo and pull through 1 loop on hook, *yo and pull through 2 loops on hook* repeat from *to * until you have worked off all loops on hook you will end up with 1 loop on the hook at the end and for each row through out

NOTE: This is the basicTunisian Simple Stitch TSS that you have just completed Row 2: You will be working the Tunisian Knit Stitch TKS across this row On the front of the piece you should see vertical bars instead of the standard looking crochet stitch, There will be 2 vertical bars one on the front of the piece one on the back Skip very first vertical bar on right hand side of piece In second Vertical bar *insert your hook between these vertical bars, yo, pull up a loop* Continue from *to* across, you will have 43 loops on the hook NOTE: For every row through out when you do your forward pass you will end up with 43 loops on the hook Work off loops: Now yo and pull through 1 loop on hook, *yo and pull through 2 loops on hook* repeat from *to * until you have worked off all loops on hook you will end up with 1 loop on the hook at the end and for each row through out Row 3: Switching stitches to start the cable TKS the next stitch *Skip next 3 stitches and TKS the 3 next stitches.

this image shows me doing the cable for the 2nd time, I already had done the begining of row 3 steps on the first 7 stitches on the right of the needle. You see the area I am pointing at showing the 3 skipped stitches and the next 3 worked in TKS. Now remove the 3 stitches just made from the hook and place on a stitch holder

Go back and TKS the 3 skipped stitches

Remove these 3 stitches from the hook and place on a second stitch holder and hold to the back of the work (I just use a second hook of the same size to work the stitches and keep them on it)

place hook in front of the 3 just removed from hook and now pick up the 1st set of 3 stitches you worked the TKS over Now go back and pick up the 3 TKS you did 2nd starting with the one closest to the right hand side of your work.

You have switched stitches to start the cabling.

TKS next two stitches* Repeat from *to* to end, you will have 42 loops on the hook and have switched stitches 5 times. work off stitches just as before. Row 4-6: repeat row 2 Row 7: repeat row 3 Row 8-10: repeat row 2 Row 11: repeat row 3 Row 12-14: repeat row 2 Row 15: repeat row 3 Row 16-18: repeat row 2 Row 19: repeat row 3 Row 20-22: repeat row 2 Row 23: repeat row 3 Row 24-26: repeat row 2 Row 27: repeat row 3 Row 28-30: repeat row 2 Row 31: repeat row 3 Row 32-34: repeat row 2 Row 35: repeat row 3 Row 36-38: repeat row 2 Row 39: repeat row 3 Row 40-42: repeat row 2 Row 43: repeat row 3 Row 44-45: repeat row 2 Row 46: Insert hook into 2nd verticle bar, yo, pull a loop through as if doing a slip stitch in standard crochet. repeat the slip stitch across and finish off.

(Yours will be longer but this is what the piece will look like as you go) Hold right sides together lining up rows on the sides and sew up each side with what ever method you prefer. I did a slip stitch down each side, but a blind stitch, whip stitch andything will work. TIP: If you chose to line the purse add the lining now

I laid the purse on a piece of material to measure, folded material in 1/2 and sewed the 2 sides up to form an envelope

You may be able to see here one side the stitching is black and the other side the stitching is pink. On my finished piece the yarn is pink, the lining fabric is black and I wanted to keep the stitches on it the same color so they didn't show. To do this place the black thread in the top of your machine and place the pink thread in the bobbin. Now when you sew make sure the pink side is facing the bobbin and the black side is up facing the needle so you will only see the one color of thread on each side)

then I hemmed the top of the liner and inserted it into the bag wrong sides together I then used a machine and stitched around the top just under the last row of stitches TIP: Use a walking stitch method on the machine or do this by hand. If you use the foot the yarn will stretch and end up with the lining not matching up correctly

Adding the Handle: Now you should be able to find 84 stitches around. count 42 stitches on each side and mark the sides with stitch markers. So you should place a marker in, count 42 stitches to the left after this and place another stitch marker in the 42nd stitch you count to mark off the 43 stitches that belong to one side Handle Row 1: Attach yarn on right hand side of bag where 1st stitch market is located with a slip stitch. Chain 1 Place stitch marker back to mark this as the Work 6 Decreases using the first stitch where you attached as the place to begin. NOTE: once you do the 1st decrease mark this stitch as the 1st stitch with one of the stitch markers. sc in the next 20 stitches work 5 decreases to next stitch marker. Place stitch marker back to mark this as the side Work 6 decreases sc in next 20 stitches work 5 decreases sl into top of 1st stitch You now have 62 stitches around Handle Row 2: chain 3 (counts as first hdc and chain 1 space) skip next stitch *HDC in next 2 stitches, chain one and skip next stitch* repeat from *to * around until there is 1 stitch left unworked HDC in last stitch slip stitch to chain 2 space of beginning chain 3 Handle Row 3: chain 1 sc in this stitch and each stitch around slip stitch to first stitch and place stitch markers in to mark corners.

Handle Row 4-5: repeat row 3 Handle row 6: chain 1, sc in same stitch sc in next 9 stitches chain 11 skip next 11 stitches sc in next 20 stitches chain 11 skip next 11 stitches sc in next 10 stitches slip stitch into begining sc NOTE: You can remove the stitch markers now, they will no longer be needed Handle row 7: chain 1 sc in same space sc in next 9 stitches sc in each of the next 11 chains sc in next 20 stitches sc in each of the next 11 chains sc in next 10 stitches sl into starting sc Row 8-10: repeat row 3 at the end of row 10 finish off. Finishing: Weave in all ends with a needle Thread 1/2 inch ribbon through the spaced made on Handle Row 2 and tie in a bow

Striped Crochet Bag (Tunisian hook)

This striped crochet bag almost appears woven, but it is definitely crocheted. The bag is made using afghan stitch, otherwise known as Tunisian simple stitch. This bag has crocheted handles, which means that you do not have to purchase separate purse handles to complete it. Abbreviations Used in This Pattern: ch = chain sc = single crochet (maglia bassa) sl st = slip stitch (mezza maglia bassa) st = stitch Materials: Yarn: My sample bag was crocheted using Lion Brand Homespun yarn, but you can use just about any yarn you like. If you want your bag to be the same size as mine, use a textured bulky yarn that works up at the same gauge. Color A: You'll need about 3 3/4 oz of the main color. In my sample, color A is the purple yarn. The official color name is "Baroque." Color B: You'll need about 2 ounces of the secondary color. In my sample, this is the off-white yarn with multicolored accents. The official color name is "Tudor." Crochet Hooks: I used a size 10 / 6.0 mm afghan hook, measuring 10" long, to make the sample bag. Use that as a starting point, and adjust as necessary. I used a regular size J hook to do the finishing and some of the details. Again, feel free to adjust as necessary. Optional: Sewing needle Thread that matches your chosen yarns Safety pins Finished Size: The bag measures about 15 1/4" high from top to bottom, including the handles. The body of the bag measures 10 1/2" high by 10 1/4" wide. Gauge: Working the afghan stitch striped pattern, 3 sts = 1"; 3 1/3 rows = 1" Work in afghan stitch, otherwise known as Tunisian simple stitch. Rows 1 - 12 form the basic stripe repeat. Chain 30 loosely with color A (Purple / Baroque in sample.) Chains have a front loop and a back loop, and if you turn them over, there is also a ridge on the reverse side. For best results, crochet into this ridge rather than either of the loops on the chain. Why? Well, afghan stitch has a tendency to curl up. Adding an edging around the project is one effective way of dealing with the curl. If you crochet into the ridge in your foundation chain, it will leave both the front and back loops free for working into when you crochet the edging. Rows 1 - 3

Work the first three rows in color A. Row 4 Forward Pass

Work the forward pass in color A. Row 4 Return

Work the return pass in color B. Row 5 Forward Pass

Work the forward pass in color B. Row 5 Return

Work the return pass in color A. Row 6 Forward Pass

Work the forward pass in color A. Row 6 Return

Work the return in color B. Rows 7 - 9

Work rows 7-9 in color B. Row 10 Forward Pass Work the forward pass in color B. Row 10 Return

Work the return in color A.

Row 11 Forward Pass

Work the forward pass in color A. Row 11 Return Work the return in color B. Row 12 Forward Pass

Work the forward pass in color B. Row 12 Return

Work the return in color A. Rows 13 +

At this point, the pattern repeats; start from the beginning, working the next 3 rows in color A as you did in rows 1-3, etc Avoid Weaving in Excessive Loose Ends: As you crochet the striped afghan stitch pattern, I recommend carrying your yarn up the sides of your work. Otherwise, this striped pattern will generate a mess of loose ends. To carry a yarn up the sides, do not cut it when you are finished with the color. Simply drop it and pick it up again when you are ready to resume using it. In the sample bag pictured, I carried all my yarns up the sides. See this tutorial for more info (note that different stitches and color changes are used in the tutorial.) TUTORIAL: Crochet two rows of single crochet in color A. When you get to the last stitch, stop short of completing the last step. (View A.) Grab color B with your hook. (View B.) Pull it through to complete the stitch. (View C.) Do not cut color A! Work the turning chain with color B as you normally would. Finish crocheting two rows in color B. When you get to the last stitch, leave the last step incomplete in preparation for the next color change. (View E.)

Remember how you didn't cut color A when you were finished working the first two rows? Since you didn't cut it, it should still be hanging around down there, just waiting for you to pick it back up and keep going. That's exactly what you're going to do: grab color A with your hook, (view F) and pull it through to complete the stitch (View G.) Work your turning chain in color A. (view H.)

That's it, in a nutshell. From here, you just keep repeating those basic steps every time you change colors to make a new stripe. Views I and J show another color change, completed exactly the same way.

View K is a close-up photo of the side of the afghan block; this picture shows how the carried yarns will look. At the end, the carried yarns are hidden by the single crochet stitches used to join the pieces of the bag. Crochet Instructions: Body of Bag: Chain 30. Using your afghan hook, work 27 rows in the afghan stitch stripe pattern. The afghan stitch stripe pattern repeats over 12 rows. This photo shows 27 rows, which is more than 2 repeats. Upper Edge of Bag: When crocheting the upper edge of the bag, you might wish to switch to a shorter crochet hook. If you notice a significant difference in your tension as you crochet this part, adjust your hook size accordingly. Work in color A. Row 28: Work 1 slip stitch in each vertical bar all the way across. Work one slip stitch in the same spot you would normally work your last afghan stitch in the row. Row 29: Ch 2, turn. (Sc, ch 1, skip next st.) Repeat sequence in parentheses 13 more times. Sc in the last stitch in the row. Row 30: Ch 2, turn. (Sc in next ch-1 space, ch 1.) Repeat sequence in parentheses 13 more times. Sc in the last stitch in the row. Row 31: Ch 3, turn. (Sc in next ch-1 space, ch 1.) Repeat 13 more times End off and weave in all the loose ends. Crochet 2 identical pieces using these instructions. Crocheting the Purse Handles: Ch 5. Work 27 rows in afghan stitch using color A. Do not cut the yarn yet or end off, but stop and weave in the loose end from the beginning of the row. Row 28: change to shorter crochet hook. Work slip stitches in the vertical bars, plus a slip stitch in the last stitch in the row. Finishing the Purse Handles:

Fold the piece in half to form the purse handle. You can pin the pieces together if you wish; pinning can help you keep the work together as you crochet. Working through both edges of the piece, work slip stitches evenly spaced all the way across the purse handle to form a tube. Make 2 identical handles using these instructions. Joining the Purse Handles to the Body of the Bag: You have a couple different options for joining the purse handles to the body of the bag: You can stitch the handles to the bag using a sewing needle and coordinating thread. This is probably the easiest method. You can use slip stitches to attach the handles to the body of the bag. This is the method used in the sample. Joining the Purse Handles Using Slip Stitches: To accomplish this, I held the right sides together. I inserted my hook a few stitches ahead of the place where I'd be crocheting through all the layers, and drew up a loop. Then I slip stitched across the handle, working through both layers of the handle and the upper edge of the bag. After I'd stitched the handle, I made a couple more slip stitches on the body of the bag, just to be sure the handle was firmly attached. I then ended off, leaving a long tail of yarn, and wove in the ends securely. After you've attached the first handle, make sure you match the placement precisely when you attach the second handle. Weaving in Ends: Be sure to weave in all your loose ends very carefully before finishing the rest of the bag. You should take special care with this part. Do not leave long strands of yarn exposed, because things could catch on them when you use the bag. Blocking the Bag: If you use the yarn specified, or another synthetic yarn, blocking is not necessary. If you've substituted a wool yarn or another natural-fiber yarn, you may wish to block the pieces of the bag before joining them. Joining the Pieces of the Bag: To join the pieces of the bag, place the wrong sides together. You may find it helpful to safety pin the corners of the bag together, and remove the pins as you go along. Start by drawing up a loop of yarn. Ch 2, then work one sc stitch per row, working through both pieces of the body of the bag. In the corners, sc then ch 2 to form the corner, and resume working sc all the way across. When the piece is completely joined, end off. Turn the bag inside out, and weave in the loose ends securely. After ends are woven in, turn it right side out again.

1940s Handbag, Style Number One

This handbag could be made with a variety of thicknesses of thread or with fingering or sport weight yarn (or with two strands of thread held together). The finished size will depend on the thickness of thread or yarn used. Whether you prefer a small or large bag is up to you.

Wouldn't it be fun to search out a novelty yarn in a special fiber to make this bag with? Materials Required: Original directions called for Jack Frost brand Cordet - (5) 75-yd. tubes, interchangeable with Soutache or Kordette, using a size 5 white crochet hook. As outlined above, choose your own thread or yarn, according to the approximate size you want your finished bag to be. Change size of hook according to thread or yarn weight used. CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS ch . . . chain s c . . Single Crochet d c . . Double Crochet st . . . Stitch sts . . Stitches sl st .. Slip Stitch Ch 4, join with a sl st. Row 1: Ch 3, work 16 d c in ring, join with a sl st. Row 2: Ch 3, work 2 d c in each st (32 d c in ring), join with a sl st. Row 3: Ch 3, increase to 54 d c at even intervals around the row, join with a sl st. Row 4: Ch 3, increase to 72 sts at even intervals around row, join with a sl st. Row 5: Ch 3, work 1 d c in same st as ch 3, ch 2, 2 d c in same space, * skip 1 st, 1 d c around the post of the d c of previous row, skip 1 st, (2 d c, ch 2, 2 d c) in next st; repeat from * for 1 row ending with skip 1 st, 1 d c around the post of the d c of previous row, join with a sl st. Rows 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10: Repeat row 5. Rows 11, 12 and 13: Repeat row 5 having 3 d c, ch 2, 3 d c over the ch 2 of row below instead of 2 d c, ch 2, 2 d c. Row 14: Repeat row 5 having 4 d c, ch 2, 4 d c over the ch 2 of row below. Fold bag into shape (see photo). GUSSET: Fold bag in half, then work gusset as follows: starting at lower edge (be sure to have a shell at base of fold) join last shell to first st of next shell, ch 1, turn. Row 1: (4 d c, ch 2, 4 d c) in ch 2 of row below, ch 1, 1 s c in ch 2 of previous shell, ch 2, 1 s c in 2nd st of same shell, ch 1, turn. Row 2: Work shell pattern in ch 2 of row below, ch 1, 1 s c in ch 2 of opposite shell, ch 2, 1 s c in 2nd st from hook, ch 1, turn. Row 3: Work shell pattern in ch 2 of row below, ch 1, work 1 s c in 2nd st from last s c worked in that shell, ch 2, 1 s c in 2nd st of next shell, ch 1, turn. Continue working shell pattern from side to side in this manner

until 8 shell patterns have been made in all, working 5 d c, ch 2, 5 d c in last shell. Work gusset on other side to correspond.

Here's a closer look at the stitches used in making this handbag.

LINING If you choose to, you could make a fabric lining for the inside of the purse. When purse pieces are crocheted, place one front or back piece on a piece of paper and trace around it to make a paper pattern as a guideline for cutting out the fabric liner shape. (Allow a bit extra around all edges for the seam.) Cut two liner pieces. With right sides together, sew around three sides, leaving top open. Fold top edge of liner under about 1/4 inch to wrong side, then fold under again. Sew along folded edge to hold this in place. When crocheted purse pieces are assembled, insert the fabric liner into the purse. Hand sew top edge of liner to the inside of the purse in such a manner that the stitching will not show from the right side of the purse. How to crochet around post: Some of the instructions in this pattern say to "d c around the post of the d c of previous row". Here's a Diagram of crocheting around post.

Just follow the diagram below to learn these two easy stitches These stitches are done with double crochet, by working around the post of each stitch in the row below. Here's how: Front Post Stitch: yo (yarn over) your hook; starting from the front, place hook from front to back to front (as per arrow in example) around the post of st (stitch) in row below; complete as a dc (double crochet). And the back post stitch is just an opposite of that ... Back Post Stitch: yo, starting from the back, place hook from back to front to back (as per arrow in example) around post of st in row below; complete as a dc.

Looking for a special purse handle or clasp? See these links of Supplies for Crocheters; also some Button and Bead suppliers may carry purse-making items.
The pattern and the handbag photos are from Jack Frost Handbags printed by Gottlieb Bros. in 1945. (now copyright-expired)

1940s Handbag, Style Number Two

This handbag could be made with a variety of thicknesses of thread or with fingering or sport weight yarn (or with two strands of thread held together). The finished size will depend on the thickness of thread or yarn used. Whether you prefer a small or large bag is up to you.

Wouldn't it be fun to search out a novelty yarn in a special fiber to make this bag with? Materials Required: Original directions called for Jack Frost brand Cordet - (5) 75-yd. tubes, interchangeable with Soutache, Kordette or Plastik-Yon, using a size 1 steel crochet hook. As outlined above, choose your own thread or yarn, according to the approximate size you want your finished bag to be. Change size of hook according to thread or yarn weight used. CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS ch . . . chain s c . . . Single Crochet d c . . . Double Crochet st . . . Stitch sts . . . Stitches sl st . . Slip Stitch Ch 10. Row 1: Skip first ch, work 1 s c in each of next 8 sts, 3 s c in last st, 8 s c on other side of ch, ch 1, turn. Row 2: Work 1 s c in each of first 8 s c, taking back loop, 3 s c in next st, 1 s c in next st, 3 s c in next st, 1 s c in each of remaining 8 s c, ch 1, turn. Row 3: Work 1 s c in each of first 9 sts, 3 s c in next st, 1 s c in each of next 3 sts, 3 s c in next st, 1 s c in each of remaining 9 sts. Continue working as described above, having 1 more st at each side and 2 more at lower edge on every row, for desired length. Work a corresponding piece. FINISHING: Work 3 rows of s c across top of each piece, taking back loop only. SIDE GUSSETS: Ch 9. Work back and forth in s c, taking back loop only, until piece corresponds to sides in length. Decrease 1 st at each end on every row until 1 st remains. Fasten off. Insert gussets between the 2 pieces at each side with a row of s c, fitting the points into the bottom of bag. Sew remainder of bag together at lower edge. Sandi's Notes: Increasing and Decreasing - Where row 3 says to "have one more stitch at each side" this means to increase by working two single crochet in a same stitch at each place where it tells you to "have one more". On the side gussets, when it says to decrease, this is done by draw up a loop in first stitch, draw up a loop in next stitch, yarn over, pull yarn through all loops on hook (decrease made) . Photos showing steps in doing a decrease. Where row 2 says "taking back loop", today we would say "crocheting in back loop only". Front Loop/Back Loop of Crochet Stitch

This photo shows the crochet hook inserted into the stitch, ready to crochet in the back loop only of that stitch.

Image 1999 Sandi Marshall

To help you understand what part of the stitch a pattern is referring to when it says to crochet in back loop only or in front loop only, in this photo, I have outlined back loops in red and have outlined front loops in blue. Image 1999 Sandi Marshall LINING When purse pieces are crocheted, place one front or back piece on a piece of paper and trace around it to make a paper pattern as a guideline for cutting out the fabric liner shape. (Allow a bit extra around all edges for the seam.) Cut two liner pieces. With right sides together, sew around three sides, leaving top open. Fold top edge of liner under about 1/4 inch to wrong side, then fold under again. Sew along folded edge to hold this in place. When crocheted purse pieces are assembled, insert the fabric liner into the purse. Hand sew top edge of liner to the inside of the purse in such a manner that the stitching will not show from the right side of the purse.

Here's a closer look at the stitch patterning on one side edge of this handbag.

URL of this page is http://crochet.about.com/library/bl_1940bag2.htm The pattern and handbag photos are from Jack Frost Handbags printed by Gottlieb Bros. in 1945. (now copyright-expired)

1940s Handbag Pattern, Style Number Three

This handbag could be made with a variety of thicknesses of thread or with fingering or sport weight yarn (or with two strands of thread held together). The finished size will depend on the thickness of thread or yarn used. Whether you prefer a small or large bag is up to you.

Wouldn't it be fun to search out a novelty yarn in a special fiber to make this bag with? My Net Links for Online Yarn/Thread Sources can help with that. Materials Required: Original directions called for Jack Frost brand Straw - (3) 2-oz. tubes, interchangeable with Cordet, Soutache or Kordette, using a size 4 white crochet hook. As outlined above, choose your own thread or yarn, according to the approximate size you want your finished bag to be. Change size of hook according to thread or yarn weight used. CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS ch . . . chain sc . . . Single Crochet st . . . Stitch sts . . Stitches Shell = (3 d c, ch 1, 3 d c) in next st Ch 61. Skip first ch. Work 1 s c in each of the next 60 ch sts. Repeat for 12 rows, then work in pattern as follows: Row 1: * Skip 2 s c; (3 d c, ch 1, 3 d c) in next st, skip 2 s c, 1 s c in next st; repeat from * across row (10 shell sts). Row 2: Work a shell st in the s c of row below and 1 s c in the ch 1 of shell st below (11 shells). Repeat above 2 rows for 18 rows. Work a corresponding piece. GUSSET: Ch 7, turn. Work 6 s c on ch. Work back and forth in s c for 29 inches. Join around 3 sides of bag with a row of s c. Fold in gusset at top. Sew the s c rows together at both sides. Fold down cuff. Insert zipper. Sandi's Notes: In the Gusset, where it says to "Work back and forth in s c for 29 inches", the number of inches that you need this piece to be may vary according to the thickness of thread or yarn that you are using and the resulting size of your handbag. Every once in awhile as you're making it, just check the length of this gusset piece against the length needed to fit around the sides and bottom of your handbag and adjust the length accordingly. In the Gusset instructions, it says "Insert zipper". This would be done by sewing machine or by hand sewing. It may work out best to hand sew a zipper into these crocheted pieces. Optional If you choose to, you could make a fabric lining for the inside of the purse. When purse pieces are crocheted, place one front or back piece on a piece of paper and trace around it to make a paper pattern as a guideline for cutting out the fabric liner shape. (Allow a bit extra around all edges for the seam.) Cut two

liner pieces. With right sides together, sew around three sides, leaving top open. Fold top edge of liner under about 1/4 inch to wrong side, then fold under again. Sew along folded edge to hold this in place. When crocheted purse pieces are assembled, insert the fabric liner into the purse. Hand sew top edge of liner to the inside of the purse in such a manner that the stitching will not show from the right side of the purse.

Here's a closer look at the stitches used in making this handbag style. The photo of the finished handbag shows the pieces turned and assembled so that the shell stitches are upside-down. Interesting effect!

URL of this page is http://crochet.about.com/library/bl_1940bag3.htm The pattern and handbag photos are from Jack Frost Handbags printed by Gottlieb Bros. in 1945. (now copyright-expired)

1940s Handbag Pattern, Style Number Three

This handbag could be made with a variety of thicknesses of thread or with fingering or sport weight yarn (or with two strands of thread held together). The finished size will depend on the thickness of thread or yarn used. Whether you prefer a small or large bag is up to you.

Wouldn't it be fun to search out a novelty yarn in a special fiber to make this bag with? My Net Links for Online Yarn/Thread Sources can help with that. Materials Required: Original directions called for Jack Frost brand Straw - (3) 2-oz. tubes, interchangeable with Cordet, Soutache or Kordette, using a size 4 white crochet hook. As outlined above, choose your own thread or yarn, according to the approximate size you want your finished bag to be. Change size of hook according to thread or yarn weight used. CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS ch . . . chain sc . . . Single Crochet

st . . . Stitch sts . . Stitches Shell = (3 d c, ch 1, 3 d c) in next st Ch 61. Skip first ch. Work 1 s c in each of the next 60 ch sts. Repeat for 12 rows, then work in pattern as follows: Row 1: * Skip 2 s c; (3 d c, ch 1, 3 d c) in next st, skip 2 s c, 1 s c in next st; repeat from * across row (10 shell sts). Row 2: Work a shell st in the s c of row below and 1 s c in the ch 1 of shell st below (11 shells). Repeat above 2 rows for 18 rows. Work a corresponding piece. GUSSET: Ch 7, turn. Work 6 s c on ch. Work back and forth in s c for 29 inches. Join around 3 sides of bag with a row of s c. Fold in gusset at top. Sew the s c rows together at both sides. Fold down cuff. Insert zipper. Sandi's Notes: In the Gusset, where it says to "Work back and forth in s c for 29 inches", the number of inches that you need this piece to be may vary according to the thickness of thread or yarn that you are using and the resulting size of your handbag. Every once in awhile as you're making it, just check the length of this gusset piece against the length needed to fit around the sides and bottom of your handbag and adjust the length accordingly. In the Gusset instructions, it says "Insert zipper". This would be done by sewing machine or by hand sewing. It may work out best to hand sew a zipper into these crocheted pieces. Optional If you choose to, you could make a fabric lining for the inside of the purse. When purse pieces are crocheted, place one front or back piece on a piece of paper and trace around it to make a paper pattern as a guideline for cutting out the fabric liner shape. (Allow a bit extra around all edges for the seam.) Cut two liner pieces. With right sides together, sew around three sides, leaving top open. Fold top edge of liner under about 1/4 inch to wrong side, then fold under again. Sew along folded edge to hold this in place. When crocheted purse pieces are assembled, insert the fabric liner into the purse. Hand sew top edge of liner to the inside of the purse in such a manner that the stitching will not show from the right side of the purse.

Here's a closer look at the stitches used in making this handbag style. The photo of the finished handbag shows the pieces turned and assembled so that the shell stitches are upside-down. Interesting effect!

URL of this page is http://crochet.about.com/library/bl_1940bag3.htm The pattern and handbag photos are from Jack Frost Handbags printed by Gottlieb Bros. in 1945. (now copyright-expired) Other 1940s Handbags Patterns: http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa111399.htm

1940s Handbag, Style Number Two

This handbag could be made with a variety of thicknesses of thread or with fingering or sport weight yarn (or with two strands of thread held together). The finished size will depend on the thickness of thread or yarn used. Whether you prefer a small or large bag is up to you.

Wouldn't it be fun to search out a novelty yarn in a special fiber to make this bag with? My Net Links for Online Yarn/Thread Sources can help with that. Materials Required: Original directions called for Jack Frost brand Cordet - (5) 75-yd. tubes, interchangeable with Soutache, Kordette or Plastik-Yon, using a size 1 steel crochet hook. As outlined above, choose your own thread or yarn, according to the approximate size you want your finished bag to be. Change size of hook according to thread or yarn weight used. CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS ch . . . chain s c . . . Single Crochet d c . . . Double Crochet st . . . Stitch sts . . . Stitches sl st . . Slip Stitch Ch 10. Row 1: Skip first ch, work 1 s c in each of next 8 sts, 3 s c in last st, 8 s c on other side of ch, ch 1, turn. Row 2: Work 1 s c in each of first 8 s c, taking back loop, 3 s c in next st, 1 s c in next st, 3 s c in next st, 1 s c in each of remaining 8 s c, ch 1, turn. Row 3: Work 1 s c in each of first 9 sts, 3 s c in next st, 1 s c in each of next 3 sts, 3 s c in next st, 1 s c in each of remaining 9 sts. Continue working as described above, having 1 more st at each side and 2 more at lower edge on every row, for desired length. Work a corresponding piece. FINISHING: Work 3 rows of s c across top of each piece, taking back loop only. SIDE GUSSETS: Ch 9. Work back and forth in s c, taking back loop only, until piece corresponds to sides in length. Decrease 1 st at each end on every row until 1 st remains. Fasten off. Insert gussets between the 2 pieces at each side with a row of s c, fitting the points into the bottom of bag. Sew remainder of bag together at lower edge. Sandi's Notes: Increasing and Decreasing - Where row 3 says to "have one more stitch at each side" this means to increase by working two single crochet in a same stitch at each place where it tells you to "have one more". On the side gussets, when it says to decrease, this is done by draw up a loop in first stitch, draw up a loop in next stitch, yarn over, pull yarn through all loops on hook (decrease made). Photos showing steps in doing a decrease. Where row 2 says "taking back loop", today we would say "crocheting in back loop only". Photo showing crocheting in back loop. Optional If you choose to, you could make a fabric lining for the inside of the purse. When purse pieces are crocheted, place one front or back piece on a piece of paper and trace around it to make a paper pattern as a guideline for cutting out the fabric liner shape. (Allow a bit extra around all edges for the seam.) Cut two

liner pieces. With right sides together, sew around three sides, leaving top open. Fold top edge of liner under about 1/4 inch to wrong side, then fold under again. Sew along folded edge to hold this in place. When crocheted purse pieces are assembled, insert the fabric liner into the purse. Hand sew top edge of liner to the inside of the purse in such a manner that the stitching will not show from the right side of the purse.

Here's a closer look at the stitch patterning on one side edge of this handbag.

URL of this page is http://crochet.about.com/library/bl_1940bag2.htm The pattern and handbag photos are from Jack Frost Handbags printed by Gottlieb Bros. in 1945. (now copyright-expired) Other 1940s Handbags Patterns: http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa111399.htm

1940s Handbag, Style Number One

This handbag could be made with a variety of thicknesses of thread or with fingering or sport weight yarn (or with two strands of thread held together). The finished size will depend on the thickness of thread or yarn used. Whether you prefer a small or large bag is up to you.

Wouldn't it be fun to search out a novelty yarn in a special fiber to make this bag with? My Net Links for Online Yarn/Thread Sources can help with that. Materials Required: Original directions called for Jack Frost brand Cordet - (5) 75-yd. tubes, interchangeable with Soutache or Kordette, using a size 5 white crochet hook. As outlined above, choose your own thread or yarn, according to the approximate size you want your finished bag to be. Change size of hook according to thread or yarn weight used. CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS ch . . . chain s c . . Single Crochet d c . . Double Crochet st . . . Stitch sts . . Stitches sl st .. Slip Stitch Ch 4, join with a sl st. Row 1: Ch 3, work 16 d c in ring, join with a sl st. Row 2: Ch 3, work 2 d c in each st (32 d c in ring), join with a sl st.

Row 3: Ch 3, increase to 54 d c at even intervals around the row, join with a sl st. Row 4: Ch 3, increase to 72 sts at even intervals around row, join with a sl st. Row 5: Ch 3, work 1 d c in same st as ch 3, ch 2, 2 d c in same space, * skip 1 st, 1 d c around the post of the d c of previous row, skip 1 st, (2 d c, ch 2, 2 d c) in next st; repeat from * for 1 row ending with skip 1 st, 1 d c around the post of the d c of previous row, join with a sl st. Rows 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10: Repeat row 5. Rows 11, 12 and 13: Repeat row 5 having 3 d c, ch 2, 3 d c over the ch 2 of row below instead of 2 d c, ch 2, 2 d c. Row 14: Repeat row 5 having 4 d c, ch 2, 4 d c over the ch 2 of row below. Fold bag into shape (see photo). GUSSET: Fold bag in half, then work gusset as follows: starting at lower edge (be sure to have a shell at base of fold) join last shell to first st of next shell, ch 1, turn. Row 1: (4 d c, ch 2, 4 d c) in ch 2 of row below, ch 1, 1 s c in ch 2 of previous shell, ch 2, 1 s c in 2nd st of same shell, ch 1, turn. Row 2: Work shell pattern in ch 2 of row below, ch 1, 1 s c in ch 2 of opposite shell, ch 2, 1 s c in 2nd st from hook, ch 1, turn. Row 3: Work shell pattern in ch 2 of row below, ch 1, work 1 s c in 2nd st from last s c worked in that shell, ch 2, 1 s c in 2nd st of next shell, ch 1, turn. Continue working shell pattern from side to side in this manner until 8 shell patterns have been made in all, working 5 d c, ch 2, 5 d c in last shell. Work gusset on other side to correspond.

Here's a closer look at the stitches used in making this handbag.

Sandi's Note: Optional If you choose to, you could make a fabric lining for the inside of the purse. When purse pieces are crocheted, place one front or back piece on a piece of paper and trace around it to make a paper pattern as a guideline for cutting out the fabric liner shape. (Allow a bit extra around all edges for the seam.) Cut two liner pieces. With right sides together, sew around three sides, leaving top open. Fold top edge of liner under about 1/4 inch to wrong side, then fold under again. Sew along folded edge to hold this in place. When crocheted purse pieces are assembled, insert the fabric liner into the purse. Hand sew top edge of liner to the inside of the purse in such a manner that the stitching will not show from the right side of the purse. How to crochet around post: Some of the instructions in this pattern say to "d c around the post of the d c of previous row". Here's a Diagram of crocheting around post. Looking for a special purse handle or clasp? See these links of Supplies for Crocheters; also some Button and Bead suppliers may carry purse-making items. URL of this page is http://crochet.about.com/library/bl_1940bag1.htm The pattern and the handbag photos are from Jack Frost Handbags printed by Gottlieb Bros. in 1945. (now copyright-expired)
Other 1940s Handbags Patterns: http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa111399.htm

Crochet - 1915 Finger-Purse

Purses of silk thread were the first type of crochet pattern known to have been published, starting in 1824; published in Holland. Previous to published crochet patterns, the art of crochet was passed to future generations without written patterns, but duplicated from small crocheted samples. Although there were many shape variations for purses during the 1820's, two of the most popular shapes were those in a pouch shape and also, round, flat purses. During the 1920's, a small coin purse called a finger-purse was a popular item. The purse dangles from crocheted chains attached to a crocheted ring, which is worn on a finger to keep the coin purse handy. These were popular for occasions to which a gown would be worn. In the 1915 Finger-Purse pattern below, the pattern suggests that the purse be made "in a color to match the gown; and is especially attractive if made with gold or silver metal thread".
Larger Photo

No thread size is given in the pattern. This could be made with various sizes of thread; the finished size will vary according to the weight of thread used. This pattern begins at the center of the round purse front. The chain lengths at the top of the purse and the ring are done last. Directions are as written in the original 1915 pattern. You'll see that crochet written instructions have changed over the years. It's a challenge to crochet from instructions written in this old style but an experienced crocheter will find that they can figure the directions out. It's helpful to have a photo of the item to go by also. Important note: In most old pattern instructions (especially before 1930), the double stitch meant a single

crochet made by inserting the hook into the back half of the stitch or what we now refer to as the back loop only.) It was a general practice in that period of time to make all crochet stitches in the back loop only. Also, if no stitch was stated in the pattern, it was generally known by crocheters of that era, that the crocheter was then expected to make a double stitch (single crochet made in the back half of the stitch). Remember, when crocheting from the directions below, each time that it says to do a double, it means to do a single crochet.

Crochet a pattern that takes you back in time ...

ORIGINAL INSTRUCTIONS
A Pretty Finger Purse Handbook of Needlecraft Number 2, published 1915 by Needlecraft Publishing Co., Maine If you would rather crochet from modern instructions, see my Rewritten Instructions. You may still find it interesting to try crocheting from both sets of instructions to compare the vintage and modern instruction differences. Make a chain of 5 stitches and join to form a ring. 1. Chain 3, 1 treble in ring, chain 1. *2 trebles in ring, chain 1; repeat from * 4 times, making 6 groups of trebles and join last 1 chain to top of 1 chain. 2. A double between 2 trebles, 6 trebles under 1 chain; repeat around, joining in 1st double. 3. A double in each of 4 trebles, missing 1st and last, chain 4; repeat around, join. 4. Chain 6, * 7 trebles under 4 chain, chain 3; repeat from *, ending with 6 trebles under 4 chain, join to 3rd of 6 chain. 5. Make 4 doubles under 4 chain, 4 trebles in 4 trebles, chain 2, a treble in same stitch with last treble and 4 trebles in 4 trebles; repeat around, join. 6. A treble in each of 4 doubles (chain 3 for 1st of the row), a treble in each treble, 4 doubles under 2 chain, double in each treble, 4 doubles in 4 doubles, double in each treble, 4 doubles under chain, * treble in each treble, 4 trebles in 4 doubles, treble in each treble, 4 trebles under 2 chain; repeat from * around, join. 7. Chain 5, miss 2 trebles, a treble in each of 7 trebles, chain 2, a double in each double across the top, * chain 2, miss 2, a treble in each of 7 trebles; repeat from * around, join to 3rd of 5 chain. 8. Chain 3, 3 trebles under 2 chain, a treble in each treble, 4 doubles under 2 chain, double in double across the top, 4 doubles under 2 chain, treble in treble and 3 under 2 chain; repeat around, join. Fasten off neatly. This forms the front part of the purse. The back is made in same way up to the 7th row; in the 7th, 8th and 9th rows the doubles across the top are omitted, the entire row being made according to latter part of directions, working all around. For the flap, two more rows are worked across one side of the second part or back, as follows: 1. Make a double in center of the group of trebles over 2 chain, a treble in each of next 3 trebles, (chain 2, miss 1, 6 trebles in 6 trebles) twice, chain 2, miss 1, 3 trebles in 3 trebles and a double in next; fasten off. 2. Make a double in double of last row, treble in each treble with 3 trebles under 2 chain and end with double in double; fasten off neatly and securely. It is a good plan in fastening off a piece of work to not only draw the thread, after breaking, through the stitch, but to thread a sewing-needle with the end and make one or two close buttonhole-stitches to hold. When both parts are completed hold them together so that the last double across the top of first part and the double at end of 10th row of second part "match"; then fasten in the thread through both doubles at the same time, * chain 3, miss 2 trebles, 1 double in next, drawing thread always through both parts at once; repeat around to other side of the top and continue around the flap in the same way. Finish with an edge of 3 doubles in 3 chain, chain 3 for a picot, 3 doubles under same chain. Fill a ring three-fourths of an inch in diameter with doubles, chain 40, fasten in double at one side of top of first part, running the chain through the flap so that the latter will fold down over the first part and lie flat, chain 3, fasten in 3rd or 4th double of top, chain 39, run through flap and fasten in next double of ring, and repeat until you have made 9 chains, making 38 stitches in 3rd, 37 in 4th, 36 in 5th, then 37 in 5th, and increase to 40 stitches in 9th, which should fasten in last double at other side of top. Line the purse or not, as desired. I learned this information on crochet history from the wonderful book by Lis Paludan Crochet History & Technique. The Pretty Finger-Purse pattern is taken directly from my copy of the book Handbook of Needlecraft Number 2, published in the year 1915, Needlecraft Publishing Co., Augusta, Maine, copyright expired.

MODERN INSTRUCTIONS
Front Piece of the Purse:

Make a chain of 5 stitches and join to form a ring. 1. Chain 3, 1 double crochet in ring, chain 1. *2 double crochet in ring, chain 1; repeat from * 4 times, making 6 groups of double crochet and join last chain 1 to top of 1st chain-3. 2. Chain 1, single crochet between posts of first 2 double crochet, make 6 double crochet in chain-1 space; * single crochet between next 2 double crochet posts, make 6 double crochet in chain-1 space ** repeat the directions between * and ** around, join with slip stitch in first single crochet of this round. 3. Slip stitch in first double crochet, single crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, skip next double crochet, chain 4 ; * skip single crochet, skip first double crochet of next 6 double crochet group, single crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, skip next double crochet, chain 4 ** repeat the directions between * and ** around, join with slip stitch in first single crochet of this round. 4. Chain 6, * 7 double crochet in chain-4 space, chain 3; repeat from * around, ending with 6 double crochet in last chain-4 space, join with a slip stitch in the 3rd chain of the first chain-6. For a photo showing a close look at the repeats of rounds 1 - 4, see http://crochet.about.com/od/vintage/ss/purse1915.htm 5. Chain 1, * 4 single crochet in chain-3 space, double crochet in next 3 double crochet, (double crochet, ch 2, double crochet) in next double crochet, double crochet in next 3 double crochet ** ; repeat the directions between * and ** around, join with slip stitch in 1st sc. 6. Chain 3 (counts as 1st double crochet), double crochet in each of next 3 single crochet, double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, 4 single crochet in chain-2 space, single crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, single crochet in next 4 single crochet, single crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, 4 single crochet in chain-2 space, * double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, double crochet in each of next 4 single crochet, double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, 4 double crochet in chain-2 space ** ; repeat the directions between * and ** around, join with slip stitch in top of beginning chain 3 of this round. 7. Chain 3, double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, chain 2, skip 2 double crochet, single crochet in next double crochet, single crochet in each of next 20 single crochet, single crochet in next double crochet, * chain 2, skip next 2 double crochet, double crochet in each of next 7 double crochet **, repeat the directions between * and ** 6 more times, then chain 2, skip next 2 double crochet, double crochet in each of next 2 double crochet, join with slip stitch in top of beginning chain-3 of this round. On this last round, I noticed that the piece was starting to curl. (In vintage patterns, they didn't add extra stitches to compensate for going around a wider curve as the circle grew in size. Instead they loosened their tension so the loops at the tops of the stitches were longer to compensate for the curve.) In the sample, I tried to keep it authentic to the way it would have been crocheted in 1915 so loosened my tension on the last round. You might, however, prefer to add the extra stitches needed to keep the piece from curling. An extra stitch after about every 4 stitches should do it. Adjust this yourself as needed, according to your own crochet tension. 8. Chain 3, double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, 4 single crochet in chain-2 space, single crochet in each of next 22 single crochet across the top, 4 single crochet in chain-2 space, * double crochet in each of next 7 double crochet, 3 double crochet in chain-2 space ** ; repeat the directions between * and ** 6 more times, double crochet in each of next 2 double crochet, double crochet in same place as beginning chain-3, join with slip stitch in beginning chain-3 of this round.

Fasten off neatly. This forms the front part of the purse. The 1917 directions indicated that: The back is made in the same way up to the 6th round; in the 6th, 7th and 8th rounds the single crochets across the top are omitted, the entire round being made according to latter part of directions, working all around. In the 1915 pattern, the differences for rounds 6, 7 and 8 were not written out for crocheting the back piece. In the year 1915, crocheters were expected to figure the differences for these rounds out for themselves. This is how I did the 6th round for the back: ch 3, dc in ea of next 3 sc, dc in ea of next 4 dc, 4 dc in ch-2 sp, * dc in ea of next 4 dc, dc in ea of next 4 sc, dc in ea of next 4 dc, 4 dc in ch-2 sp **, repeat the directions between * and ** 4 more times, then dc in ea of next 4 dc, sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 of this round. This is how I did the 7th round for the back: I opted to make this round in solid double crochet, rather than a round with open areas, as in the round 7 directions for the front piece. Make your round 7 whichever way you think you will like the best. If you wish to make it in solid double crochet, here are my directions for the round, with the increases that I used (this is just a guideline; adjust increases, if needed, for your own crochet tension, so the piece will not buckle): ch 3, dc in ea of next 9 dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in ea of next 14 dc, 2 dc in ea of next 2 dc, dc in ea of next 15, 2 dc in next dc, dc in ea of next 15, 2 dc in ea of next 2 dc, dc in ea of next 15, 2 dc in next dc, dc in ea of next 14 dc, 2 dc in ea of next 2 dc, dc in ea of next 4 dc, sl st in top of the beginning ch-3 of this round. I also did the 8th round for the back in solid double crochet, with an increase or two on each rounded point, to keep the points from buckling. An increase is done by making 2 double crochet all in one same stitch. For the flap, two more rows are worked across one side of the second part or back, as follows: 1. Make a single crochet in center of the group of double crochet in chain-2 space, double crochet in each of next 3 double crochet, (chain 2, skip 1, double crochet in next 6 double crochet) twice, chain 2, skip 1, double crochet in next 3 double crochet and a single crochet in next, slip stitch in next; fasten off. 2. Attach thread in stitch before the first single crochet of last row. Make a single crochet in single crochet of last row, double crochet in each double crochet with 3 double crochet in chain-2 space and end with single crochet in single crochet, slip stitch in next stitch; fasten off neatly and securely. It is a good plan in fastening off a piece of work to not only draw the thread, after breaking, through the stitch, but to thread a sewing-needle with the end and make one or two close buttonhole-stitches to hold. When both parts are completed hold them together so that the last single crochet across the top of first part and the single crochet at end of 10th row of second part "match"; then fasten in the thread through both single crochet at the same time, * chain 3, skip 2 double crochet, 1 single crochet in next, drawing thread always through both parts at once; repeat around to other side of the top and continue around the flap in the same way. Finish with an edge of 3 single crochet in chain-3 space, chain 3 for a picot, 3 single crochet in same chain-3 space. Fill a ring three-fourths of an inch in diameter with single crochet, chain 40, fasten in single crochet at one side of top of first part, running the chain through the flap so that the latter will fold down over the first part and lie flat, chain 3, fasten in 3rd or 4th single crochet of top, chain 39, run through flap and fasten in next single crochet of ring, and repeat until you have made 9 chains, making 38 stitches in 3rd, 37 in 4th, 36 in 5th, then 37 in 5th, and increase to 40 stitches in 9th, which should fasten in last single crochet at other side of top. Line the purse or not, as desired. Lots of work went into rewriting this pattern. Please be kind and give the URL of this page to anyone who wants a copy of the pattern, instead of distributing reproduced copies of the pattern in any other way. Thank you. I appreciate it. URL is http://crochet.about.com/library/bl1915coinpurse.htm A Pretty Finger-Purse Instructions rewritten by Sandi Marshall in today's crochet terminology Rewritten instructions copyright 1999 by Sandi Marshall. Free for your own personal use only. Do not redistribute, in any form. Instead, please give the URL of this page to anyone who would like to have the

pattern. Thank you! The original version of the pattern was published in Handbook of Needlecraft Number 2, published 1915 by Needlecraft Publishing Co., Maine (copyright expired). Because it was before the year 1923, the original version of the pattern is now in the public domain.

Boxed Shell Lined Bag Pattern

This medium size handbag has an openwork outer layer and a liner in a contrasting color behind the boxed shell design front. Abbreviations: beg = beginning, ch = chain, dc = double crochet, ea = each, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, sp = space Materials Used in the Example: about 2 1/2 oz. color A, 2 oz. color B worsted weight yarn, US size H hook, a button that's about 1 inch in diameter In the example, I used Red Heart Super Saver Pretty n' Pink for color A and Black for color B. Pattern Note: Worked in rounds; do not turn at the end of a round.

Starting Chain: ch 22. Rnd 1: dc in back loop of 5th ch from hook (this forms the first 2 dc of the round), dc in back loop of ea of next 16 chs, 6 dc in next ch, then working in remaining looops on opposite side of starting chain, dc in ea of next 17 chs, 5 dc in next ch, then sl st in 3rd ch of stitch that counts as first dc at beginning of this round. Rnd 2: ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same place as ch-3 just made, dc in ea of next 17 dc, 2 dc in ea of next 6 dc, dc in ea of next 17 dc, 2 dc in ea of next 5 dc, sl st in top of beg ch-3 of this round. Rnd 3: ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in next dc, dc in ea of next 18 dc, (2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc) 6 times, dc in ea of next 18 dc, (2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc) 5 times, sl st in top of beginning ch-3 of this round. Rnd 4: ch 1, sc in first dc, sc in ea dc around then sl st in front loop of beg sc of this round. Rnd 5: ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3 more dc in front loop in same place as ch-3 just made, * skip next 3 sc, 4 dc in front loop of next sc **, repeat the directions between * and ** around until only 3 sc remain, then skip next 3 sc, sl st in beg ch-3 of this rnd. Rnd 6: ch 5 (counts as first dc and a ch-2), skip next 2 dc, dc in ea of next 2 dc, * ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in ea of next 2 dc **, repeat the directions between * and ** until 2 dc remain, then ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, sl st in beg ch-3 of this rnd. Rnd 7: ch 1, sc in first dc, * 2 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in ea of next 2 dc **, repeat the directions between * and ** around, ending with 2 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in next dc, sl st in beg sc of this rnd. Rnd 8: ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3 more dc in same place as ch-3 just made, * skip next 3 sc, 4 dc in next sc **, repeat the directions between * and ** around, until only 3 sc remain, then skip next 3 sc, sl st in beg ch3 of this rnd. Rnds 9 - 11: Repeat Rnds 6 - 8. Rnds 12 - 14: Repeat Rnds 6 - 8.

Rnd 15: slip stitch in next dc (to be at the right spot to begin this round), ch 3 (counts as first dc), 1 more dc in same place as ch-3 just made, 2 dc in next dc, * skip next 2 dc, 2 dc in ea of next 2 dc **, repeat the directions between * and ** until only 2 dc remain, then skip next 2 dc, sl st in beg ch-3 of this rnd. Rnd 16: Repeat Rnd 15. Rnd 17: ch 5 (counts as first dc and a ch-2), skip next 2 dc, dc in ea of next 2 dc, * ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in ea of next 2 dc **, repeat the directions between * and ** until only 3 dc remain, then ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, sl st in beg ch-3 of this rnd. End off, leaving a strand for weaving in. Weave in the ends, to secure. Lining: Turn the Front Piece inside out so you can crochet the lining behind the stitches of the Front Piece. Attach color B in the remaining loop of an sc at the base of one of the dc groups on Rnd 5. Photo Closeup With Piece Turned Over to Use Remaining Loops

The easiest way to crochet this lining is to let the rounds point outward away from the main piece then fold the completed lining upward when finished, so that the lining will be directly behind the front piece. Lining Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as first dc), * dc in both loops of ea of the next 3 sc (between dc groups), dc in the remaining loop of next sc at the base of next dc group **, repeat the directions between * and ** to go around, then sl st in the to ch of the beg ch-3 of this rnd. Lining Rnds 2 - 10: ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in ea dc around, skip the sl st that joined the end of the previous rnd (so you don't accidentally increase by one extra stitch on each rnd), sl st in the top ch of the beg ch-3 of this rnd. Lining Rnd 11: ch 1, sc in ea dc around, then sl st in first sc of this rnd. Lining Rnd 12: ch 5 (counts as first dc and a ch-2), skip next 2 sc, dc in ea of next 2 sc, * ch 2, skip next 2 sc, dc in ea of next 2 sc **, repeat the directions between * and ** 17 more times, then ch 2, skip next 2 sc, dc in next sc, sl st in beg ch-3 of this rnd. Do not end off yet. Turn right side out so that the Front Piece is on the outside and the Lining is inside the front piece. Joining Lining and Front: Line up the two pieces and work through both pieces at the same time, to join, beginning with a ch-1, then making an sc in ea dc and 2 sc in ea ch-2 sp. At end of the round, sl st in the first sc of this round. End off, leaving a strand for weaving in. Weave in the ends, to secure.

Boxed Shell Stitch

Rows 1 - 4

This step-by-step includes photos showing a closer look at the boxed shell stitch pattern, helpful to refer to when crocheting items that include this type of stitch pattern. These photos show rows from my Boxed Shell Cape pattern but can be used to learn how to crochet my basic Boxed Shell variation, which is also used for the bag. The photo above shows Rows 1 - 4 of my Boxed Shell Cape pattern, with the stitches marked on the photo to describe Row 4. Row 5 Photo for Learning Boxed Shell

The photo above shows Rows 1 - 5 of my Boxed Shell Cape pattern, with the stitches marked on the photo to describe Row 5. This can be helpful to refer to when crocheting any of my patterns which include my Boxed Shell Variation.

CLOSURE and STRAP

Following are directions to crochet the buttonhole closure that is sewed on the crocheted bag, along with pattern instructions to crochet the bag strap. Closure: ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in ea of next 7 chs. Closure Rows 2 - 10: ch 1, turn, sc in ea sc across. (8 sc) Closure Row 11: ch 1, turn, sc dec over first 2 sc, sc in next sc, ch 3, skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc, sc dec over last 2 sc. Closure Row 12: ch 1, turn, sc dec over first 2 sc, 3 sc in ch-3 sp, sc dec over last 2 sc. Using a large-eye sewing needle, use yarn strand left at the end of row 12 to sew the closure piece on the back part of the bag, centering the closure in the middle. Button: Sew on button to the front, at about rnd 14, centering the button in the middle, lined up to match the buttonhole of the closure piece. Strap: With color A, ch 65. Strap Rnd 1: Working in the back loop of ea ch, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in ea of next 62 chs, 3 sc in last ch, then work in the remaining loops along the other side of the starting chain: sc in ea of next 62 chs, 3 sc in last ch, sl st in first sc of this rnd. End off color A. Strap Rnd 2: Attach color B in first sc of rnd 1. ch 1, sc in first sc, sc in ea sc across, then make 2 sc in ea of the 3 sc around the curve of the end, sc in ea sc across the other side then make 2 sc in ea of 3 sc around the curve of the end, sl st in first sc of this rnd. Strap Rnd 3: ch 1, sc in first sc, sc in ea sc across, then make 2 sc in ea of the 3 sc around the curve of the end, sc in ea sc across the other side then make 2 sc in ea of 3 sc around the end, sl st in first sc of this rnd. End off. Using a large-eye sewing needle and a long strand of yarn, sew the ends of the strap to the outside of the bag, overlapping so the rounded edge point of the strap end is at about the top of rnd 16 of the bag (refer to the photo to see where the strap ends are sewn on the side edges of the bag).