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getting around 2
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korÇA
Arriving in Korça
Arriving by plane
Albania’s only airport is in Tirana, 175 km northwest of Korça.
After arrival and passport control, most foreigners need to
pay a €10 fee to enter the country. There’s an airport at Ohrid
in Macedonia, 110km from Korça, serving mainly charter and
Balkan flights. Across the border in Greece, Kastoria airport
(76km from Korça) has flights to Athens, while Thessaloniki’s
airport (247km) has flights across Europe.
2009 - 2010 Arriving by train
Korça is not on the Albanian rail network, but the the sta-
tion at Guri i Kuq a few kilometres north of Pogradec is the
terminus of trains from Tirana. A direct bus to Korça (200
lek) waits for the trains from Tirana. Other furgons wait to
Map Hotels restaurants Bars Sights
Introducing Korça take passengers to central Pogradec.

A proud and cultured town high in the hinterlands of southeastern Albania, Korça Arriving by bus
korÇa (pronounced KOR-cha) is a world away from Tirana, and is indeed close to Greece There are no bus stations in Albania, and most buses drop
in more than one way. Locals cross the border to nearby Kastoria and further afield passengers off near the bazaar in the centre of Korça.
to Thessaloniki and Athens for the latest fashion, religious festivals, education, jobs
2009 - 2010
and family visits, and many of them are fluent in both Greek and Albanian. Arriving by car
MINI-GUIDE The roads in Albania have seen massive improvements
Including Korça is known for its pretty girls, its tradition of seranades, and good food. Despite over the past years, and the ride from Tirana to Pogradec is The daytrip destinations Voskopoja, Gorica e Madhe (Lake
PoGraDEC
its small size, it has quite a few great sights, including an excellent icon museum, a pretty smooth. The Pogradec-Korça road is being upgraded Prespa) and Vithkuq can be reached by a daily furgon, but the
bustling bazaar, a fantastic Byzantine-era painted church, a top-rate beer brewery and at the moment, causing some delay and considerable couds timetable may not leave you enough time to explore.
a great beer festival. In the immediate surroundings, Pogradec has a lovely lakeside of dust, and is expected to be completed in late 2009; at
setting and Voskopoja and Dhardha make for great daytrips in the mountains. the moment it takes 40-50 minutes to cover the 35km
between both cities. Trains
This new Korça In Your Pocket guide is the first English language city guide to this The nearest place with rails is Pogradec, from where Albanian
fascinating destination. If you have any comments, please let us know at tirana@
inyourpocket. com. Enjoy Korça. Taxis Railways (Hekurudha Shqiptare, HSH) runs one daily, basic
and extremely slow diesel-hauled train to Tirana. Pogradec
Taxis are green or blue with white roofs. All taxis in Korça train station (stacion i trenit) is a few kilometres north of
are independent, though most collaborate with the central town along the lakeside, and tickets for the train are available
About this guide taxi switchboard at tel. +355 24 44 44. A ride within the
city should cost about 200 lek; all other rides are subject to
just before departure.
It’s much faster to take a bus, but if you have the time, the
This Instant guide contains the content of the Korça In Your Pocket negotiation. Korça’s main taxi rank is outside the Grand Hotel stretch to Elbasan is a marvellous train ride, as you first
miniguide, the first English-language guide to Korça, Pogradec and on the main square; in Pogradec ask for Rruga Rinia. trundle along the lakeshore and then wind down a lush valley
surroundings, produced in March 2009 in cooperation with Korça towards Elbasan, sometimes perched high on rusty viaducts.
municipality, GTZ Albania and the Gulliver OK Travel Agency. Copies
of the printed miniguide are free and can be found locally as well as in Public transport Avoid the flat tedious bits of rail beyond Elbasan by taking a
bus to Tirana or elsewhere.
many other distribution points in Albania including hotels, embassies, Korça has five city bus routes aimed at shuttling residents to
airports and tourist information centres; copies may also be sold for
200 lek to allow bookshop distribution. The full content of this guide
the suburbs. Buses run every 30 minutes. Tickets cost 30 lek
regardless of destination and are bought on board. Travel agents
can be viewed at http://albania.inyourpocket.com. Find In Your Pocket Hotels and plane bookings and guided tours in the region
guides to Tirana, Shkodra, Pristina, Skopje, Belgrade, Zagreb, Ljubljana,
Athens and other cities online at www.inyourpocket.com. Car rental or elsewhere in Albania.

There are no car rental companies in Korça, though if booked Albania Travel & Tours B-4, Blv. Gjerg j Kastrioti,
www.inyourpocket.com All In Your Pocket editorial content is independently written and is free from paid- in advance, the car rental companies in Tirana can bring a Pall. Çajupi 2, tel./fax +355 82 24 38 62, skasso@
for advertising. In Your Pocket has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of car to Korça for you. Cars with drivers or guides can be hired abissnet.com.al. Also on Rr. Reshit Çollaku in Pogradec,
information at the time of publication and assumes no responsibility for changes via the local travel agents. tel. (083) 22 26 17.
and errors. All comments and enquiries are welcome at [email protected]. Gulliver OK B-4, Blv. Gjerg j Kastrioti, tel. +355 82 24
36 97/+355 68 227 04 70, [email protected], www.
Published by In Your Pocket, Albania Experience Sh.P.K, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, Pall Buses gulliver-ok.com. A friendly travel agent that doubles as the
11/1, kati 5, Tirana, Albania, http://albania.inyourpocket.com, tel +355 4 225 56 Korça is well served by buses from the main cities in Albania, local Tourist Information Centre (see also ‘Sights’). Flight
55, fax +355 4 227 19 60. as well as Thessaloniki and Athens in Greece. There’s no bookings as well as local tours; ask for Orieta who is an
bus station and no official timetable, so it’s a good idea expert on the region and speaks fluent English. QOpen
All texts and photos © Albania Experience Sh.P.K; all rights reserved; no part of this to ask around for the exact departure locations and times 09:00 - 19:00.
publication may be reproduced in any way without the prior written permission of before travel - many buses depart from beside the bazaar
the publisher. Maps copyright Korça municipality and prefecture. along Shetitorja Fan Noli. Most minibuses (furgons) depart

Publisher: Gazmend Haxhia

as soon as they’re full, starting from various places in town,
sometimes trawling through the streets to find passengers.
Train schedule
Co-publisher, texts, photos, editing: Jeroen van Marle (rentapocket.com) Buses to Gjirokastra and Greece are slower but more com-
Albania manager: Alida Karakushi, tel. +355 68 20 61 390 fortable large buses. From Pogradec To Pogradec
Fact-checking: Froseda Angjellari There are direct daily furgon buses from Korça along the Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.
Layout/design: Tomáš Haman Pogradec-Elbasan route to Berat, Durrës, Tirana and Vlora.
The publishers would like to thank Rajmonda and Vangjel Nase, Ismail Beka, Luan There’s a daily early morning bus (departs around 06:00) 12:50 16:00 ELBASAN 09:30 12:23
Dervishej, Maria Grazia Amore and especially Orieta Gliozheni. using the stunning mountain pass route to Gjirokastra, 12:50 20:00 TIRANA 05:00 12:30
Cover photo: The cathedral seen from the Vangush Mio museum courtyard. continuing to Saranda every second day.

2009 - 2010
3 basics where to stay 4

Korça has plenty of hotels to choose from, with everything Kristal D-4,, tel./fax +355 82 24 89 92, tel. +355 69
Mail & Phones available from an Ottoman inn to comfortable three- 209 83 21, [email protected]. Up on the hill over-
star options. Breakfast is included unless mentioned looking town, this former ‘worker’s hotel’ is a large concrete
Internet access otherwise. block with standard rooms and good views over the city and
the plains beyond. Unless you like long walks, you’ll need your
There’s free internet access at the Thimi Mitko Library. George E-7, Rruga Korce-Mborje, tel. +355 82 24 37 own transport or a taxi to get to and from town. Q 61 rooms
World Cup Blv. Gjerg j Kastrioti. Surfing at 100 lek/ 94/+355 69 208 31 12. Named after the owner’s father, (4 singles 2,000 lek, 47 doubles 3,000 lek, 10 triples 4,500
hr. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00. this curious structure on the hillside just east of town has lek). PHALKW
triangular rooms arranged like pieces of pie. Feel as happy
Mobile phones as a cherry in one of the newly built suites with wide wooden Pallas B-5, Rr. Misto Mame. The convivial doorman of
Three rather expensive providers are active in Albania. beds and spanking clean bathrooms. The quiet location this ghastly hotel whispered to us that it should be closed
AMC numbers start with 068, Vodafone numbers with makes air conditioning unneccesary as you can sleep with down, and he’s absolutely right. Anything but a palace, this
069 and Eagle Mobile numbers with 067. It’s easy to windows open. Along the road to Mborje, it’s a bit of a walk hotel has downright shitty rooms with sagging beds, mouldy
buy and recharge a mobile phone SIM card for around from the centre, but just a short taxi ride. Q 36 rooms (5 bathrooms, crumbling ceilings and broken mirrors. A smudge
600 lekat the operators’ shops; recharge vouchers are singles 1,500 lek, 25 doubles 2,500 lek, 6 triples 4,500 on Korça’s fine reputation - but it’s oh so cheap. Find Pallas
sold in kiosks too. National rates for pre-paid calls are lek). LKW in the alley next to the Procredit bank. No telephone. Q
between 30-55 lek per minute. 6 rooms (singles 300-500 lek, doubles 600-1,000 lek).
Gold C-3, Rr. Kiço Golniku 5, tel. +355 82 24 68 Breakfast not included.
Albania’s population is 3,619,778 (2008 estimate). There are
AMC Blv. Fan Noli 26, tel. +355 82 25 28 33, www. 94/+355 69 236 43 50. A modern and friendly hotel
more than two million ethnic Albanians in Kosovo, hundreds of
amc.al. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun. with balconied rooms in various shades of brown, all Regency B-5, Rr. Ismail Qemali 7, tel. +355 82 24
thousands in Macedonia and Montenegro, and an estimated
Eagle Mobile Blv. Fan Noli, Lg j. 3, tel. +355 82 equipped wi th en sui te bathrooms wi th reliable hot 38 68/+355 69 230 47 48, fax +355 82 24 38 70,
25 40 50. Also at Blv. Gjerg j Kastrioti. QOpen 08:00 water. Just off Boulevard Gjerj Kastrioti. Q 10 rooms [email protected], www.regencyalbania.com.
two million in the United States, Switzerland, Germany,
- 20:00. Closed Sun. (2 singles 1,500 lek, 7 doubles 3,000-3,500 lek, 1 triple The ‘American-style’ Regency is one of few self-proclaimed
Greece, Italy and Canada. In Korça, some 65% of believers
are Orthodox, with the rest split between Muslim, Bektashi
Vodafone Rr. Guri Stratobardha 2, tel. 25 28 30. 4,000 lek). PLK three-star hotels in Albania actually living up to the standards.
Also at Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji, pall. 2. QOpen 08:30 With good rooms and a quiet corner location in the city centre,
and Catholic.
At 28,748 square kilometres, Albania is a bit larger than
- 20:00. Closed Sun. Grand B-5, Blv. Gjerg j Kastrioti, tel. +355 82 24 31 it’s often the hotel of choice for business travellers, though it
68, fax +355 82 24 26 77, [email protected]. remains firmly Albanian, witness the ubiquitous chain-smoking
Wales or Maryland. The highest mountain is Mt. Korabi near
Peshkopi, at 2,751m.
Post Recently brought back to grandness with a thorough renova- men hanging out in the lobby bar. A good breakfast is included
Posta Shqiptare has the following rates for postcards/ tion, the glistening marble hall of Korça’s largest hotel (and in the price. Q 18 rooms (2 singles €30, 14 doubles €40,
At 3,710 square kilometres, Korça prefecture is the largest
letters under 20gr: Albania 15/20 lek; Italy, Greece, one of just a handful with a lift) leads to adequate, simple 2 suites €40). PHARFK
of Albania’s 12 prefectures, and is ranked 4th in population,
Kosovo & Macedonia 20/30 lek; rest of Europe 30/50 rooms overlooking the main square. The hotel brochure
with 265,000 inhabitants (2001). The prefecture’s two cities
Korça and Pogradec rank 7th and 11th in Albania, with lek; Americas 50/90 lek; elsewhere 40/60 lek. proclaims “Yes, this miracle must be felt to be believed” and Smerald C-3, Rr. Viktimat e Pojanit 1, tel. +355 82 24
without drawing the divine into it, we certainly feel it’s worth 50 93, [email protected]. Great value for money,
55,000 and 24,000 inhabitants respectively (2001).
Post office B-5, Blv. Gjerg j Kastrioti, tel. +355 a look. Q 84 rooms (26 singles 2,500 lek, 45 doubles this small but modern business hotel was the first in town with
82 24 39 92, www.postashqiptare.al. Q Open 4,000-5,000 lek, 7 suites 6,000 lek, 2 VIP suites 10,000 key cards, is decorated with abstract art and has a funky-
08:00 - 16:00. lek). PHAUFLGKW coloured bar area. The decent-sized rooms come with marble
Purchasing power sinks and safes. In summer, there’s a piano bar here too. Away
Public telephones Han Elbasan B-5, Rr. Naum Kristo Vokopoja. The from all the action, it’s located 100m from the stadium, off
How far does your euro, pound or dollar go in Korça? Public card phones can be found on the street, at hotels wonderful 200-year-old inn built to accommodate traders Blv. Republika. Q 10 rooms (8 doubles 4,500-5,000 lek,
Espresso 50-100 lek and in post offices. Telephone cards are available at post from Elbasan is Korça’s oldest hotel and has been taking family rooms 6,000 lek). PHARFL
Glass of local beer (0.5 litre) 200 lek officesand should be wrapped in clear plastic. If you don’t care of travellers for centuries (see also Sights). The four
Mineral water (1 litre) 50 lek plan to talk away a whole card, you can rent one from wooden rooms above the main gate that are available Vila Sidheri C-4, Rr. Mbledhja e Beratit, tel. +355 82
Mars bar 50 lek the ‘businessmen’ often found lingering near the phones. for foreigners are simple but clean, with basic shared 24 58 14/+355 68 205 64 45. Opened in early 2009, this
Hamburger 100 lek Prices will run about 20 lek a unit. facilities at the end of the corridor. With the bustling utterly charming new bed & breakfast is an excellent place
Cinema ticket 150-200 lek bazaar right outside, it’s an excellent and atmospheric for a relaxed stay. The renovated house is built in traditional
Public transport ticket
100km by bus/train
30 lek
400/250 lek
Telephone calls option for budget travellers in the warmer months. Q
25 rooms, 4 suitable for foreigners (250 lek per bed).
Korça style, while the cellar restaurant and rooms are fur-
nished with the owner’s antique collection. Near the centre,
International calls: Dial the international access Breakfast not included. just east off Boulevard Republika. Q 4 rooms (singles €25,
Exchange rates (per 1-4-09) number (00), the country code, the area code and the doubles €50).
€1 = 131 lek; £1 = 141 lek; US$1 = 99 lek subscriber’s number. Call 12 for international directory Koçibelli (Turizem) B-5, Blv. Gjerg j Kastrioti, tel.
assistance. +355 82 24 37 94/+355 69 207 55 39, lobitv@hotmail.
National calls: For calls outside Korça, dial 0, the city com. Formerly the dour state-run Hotel Turizmi, this newly
code and the subscriber’s number. Call 14 for domestic renovated hotel with its modern blue glass facade has decent
Tourist information directory assistance. rooms with cable TV and en suite baths or showers. Koçibelli
Local calls: Korça numbers have six digits, all starting overlooks the busy main square, so ask for rooms at the back
Korça is one of very few cities in Albania with a good with a 2. for a peaceful night’s sleep. Q 30 rooms (singles 2,500
municipal website with information in English: www. Calling Albania from abroad: Dial the country code lek, doubles 3,500 lek, triples 4,000 lek, suites 6,000 lek).
bashkiakorce.gov.al. (355), then the city code (Korça’s is 82). To call a mobile Breakfast not included. PHFLKW
phone in Albania from abroad, dial 355, then drop the
Tourist Information Centre B-4, Blv. Gjerg j 0 and dial 38. Konti A-3, Rruga Korça-Pogradec, tel. +355 82 24 49 Symbol key
Kastrioti, tel. +355 82 24 36 97/+355 68 227 04 27, fax +355 82 24 38 15, [email protected], ho-
70, [email protected], www.gulliver-ok.com. [email protected]. A glam-looking hotel in Korça’s P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
Sharing an office with the Gulliver OK travel agency, the industrial zone, overlooking the noisy main road into town. K Restaurant H Conference facilities
TIC has maps and booklets about the city and region, Not the most romantic or central place to stay, but handy
and can help with general information and hotel and tour Download Tirana and Shkodra for a early morning escape to Tirana. The single rooms T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
bookings. Ask for the knowledgeable English-speaking and cheaper double rooms have shared bathroom facili-
Orieta Gliozheni. Hiring a guides for trips in the city or the In Your Pocket for free at ties; air-conditioning is available in the suites and some
R Internet L Guarded parking
surroundings costs €35 per day if booked in advance. doubles. Q 27 rooms (3 singles 1,300 lek, 19 doubles F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. www.inyourpocket.com 2,000-3,500 lek, 1 triple 4,000 lek, 5 suites 5,000 lek). W Wi-Fi
PHAKW

Instant Korça 2009 - 2010

5 restaurants nightlife 6

Korça is one of the best destinations around for good There’s a concentration of bars at the far end of Blv. Shtëpia 1821 C-5, Blv. Republika, tel. +355 82 25
Albanian food. Apart from the ubiquitous pizzerias, there Symbol key Republika near Rinia Park, though the best options 49 54. A hopping bar in a traditional-style building near the
are several welcoming restaurants serving local food are in the town centre. For proper clubbing you’ll need cathedral, with a lively scene and a great terrace, linked to
in a great setting. Don’t miss out on the kernace, spicy P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted to go to Tirana or Greece, but Korça does have the that of Piazza next door. If you like it or not, there’s regular
small sausages. The price range in brackets indicates the E Live music S Take away charming daily xhiro, a mass evening stroll up and karaoke and a ladies’ night on the last Saturday of the month.
average price of main courses. down the full length of Boulevard Republika, which QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
G Non-smoking rooms L Guarded parking is shut for traffic for this purpose during the early
Vanessa D-3, Rinia Park, tel. +355 82 24 79 11. A new,
Albanian W Wi-Fi B Summer garden evening hours.
modern bar built on the site of an old but popular kiosk, in the
Shtëpia Voskopojare C-5, Rr. Gaqo Koroveshi,
tel. +355 82 24 27 84/+355 68 205 44 88. This Bars centre of the park. Enjoy your beer surrounded by birdsong
and strolling couples.QOpen 07:30 - 23:30. P
small villa b eside th e cath edral ser ves up ch eap and Vila Themistokli C-5, Blv. Themistokli Germenji, tel. Bar Bunkeri Bilishti, tel. +355 68 205 51 36. If
exc ell en t Albanian di sh es. Th e small sala d fe e d s +355 82 24 87 99. A well-known old café/bar along the you’re driving to or from Greece, It’s well worth pulling Vasport C-5, Blv. Republika, tel. +355 82 25 03
t wo, an d th e q of te an d oth er grill e d m ea t dish es main road. Fine for a coffee break in between sightseeing, over for a coffee or a snack at the bar inside one of 88/+355 68 206 20 22. A pleasant restaurant right op-
are fresh an d tast y. Si t in on e of t wo dinin g rooms and a good place to catch live music on summer weekends. dictator Hoxha’s thousands of bunkers. Find it along posite the cathedral, serving traditional Albanian dishes and
in ‘ambj en te luksoze’ b ehin d th e pret t y porch wi th QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. PAE the main road, 1,5km south of Bilishti village. Q Open wines. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PALGW
Ionian pillars, or on th e sh el tere d terrace ou tsid e. 08:00 - 24:00.
Q Op en 08:00 - 15:00; 19:00-24:00. (800-1200 Vecchia Casa C-3, Blv. Republika, tel. +355 82 25 48
l ek). PEGBW International Havana C-4, Blv. Republika, tel. +355 82 24 52 89. Like 80. A bar set in a renovated building near Rinia park. Large
Amerika C-3, Blv. Republika, tel. +355 82 24 76 73. Buddhism, Cuba-ism is a popular bar theme and Korça can’t terrace. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PEB
Taverna Qilari C-5, Rr. Bardhyl Pojani 8, tel. +355 As eclectic as the New World it’s named after, the small but stay behind. It’s not much more than a name in this case, Vila Alket C-5, Blv. Republika, tel. +355 69 268 81 30.
69 248 96 93, [email protected]. An unassum- modern interior of this Albanian-Italian restaurant holds a as this bar is simply a purple space filled with young lads A quaint and fun bar attracting an older audience, set back
ing apartment building on a quiet street off Blv. Republika stuffed grouse, African statues and a Tutanchamon mask. drinking and smoking. Still, it’s one of just a few bars in town from the boulevard in an old stone house. The two floors are
holds Korça’s best culinary surprise; an utterly charming There’s a popular terrace to escape all the history. QOpen with a summer terrace on the pavement outside. QOpen crammed with antiques and knick-knacks, including record
cellar tavern serving huge portions of local nosh. The two 08:00 - 24:00. (600-1,000 lek). PLGBW 07:00 - 24:00. BW players, radios and stuffed badgers, foxes and wolves. There’s
dining rooms are wonderfully done up with old photos, a separate function room that’s decked out with old photos
keys, ancient Albanian radios listing exotic radio stations Valbona C-4, Blv. Republika, tel. +355 82 25 31 74. It’s Moska C-5, Blv. Republika, tel. +355 69 225 59 and rifles. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. PB
and a medieval tavern scene painting. Local dishes include back to 1985 at the rambling commie-era Valbona restaurant. 99. One of Korça’s best-looking bars, a first floor affair
kernace, piperka me djathe and tave, as well as some Mainly used for wedding banquets and funeral meals, come wi th sil ver air ducts, stylish wooden walls and large Zeus C-4, Blv. Republika. A bar with modern cream white
Mexican snacks spelled local-style: kesadia, burito and when invited but avoid otherwise. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. balcony windows overlooking the main street. Named couches and wooden separations on the first floor above
tako. Some English is spoken. Q Open 13:00 - 23:00. (500-700 lek). PLB Moscow, i t has paintings of great Russians and oil the El Forno pizzeria. It’s named after the king of gods and
(800-1,300 lek). G paintings of Korça alley ways lining the halls. Corona, Aphrodite’s daddy, and women can enter without fear as the

Taverna Vasili C-3, Rr. Kostadina Gaçe, tel. +355 Italian Fosters, Kronenbourg and Paulaner beer are available,
there’s a wine room and a a pleasant rooftop bar in
bar is a self-proclaimed me te shoqeruar or ‘woman friendly’
place; no dodgy smoking men in leather coats huddled around
82 24 66 10/+355 69 214 85 83. Renowned as the Antic Pizza C-4, Blv. Republika, tel. +355 82 24 31 47. summer. Par ties ever y last Saturday of th e mon th. low tables here. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PW
best place in town to tr y Korça and Albanian speciali- We’re not sure if they mean antiques, antics or something Q Open 07:00 - 24:00. PG
ties - at modest prices. The grilled qofte and kernac,
roast beef with spices, piglet, koloface salami, game
else, but the pizzas at this popular restaurant are worth a
try. Decorated with stone arches and wine bottles, Antic has O2 Bar Blv. Republika, tel. +355 69 226 50 07. Set Beer gardens
and fish are all wonder full y presented and delicious, just a few tables, so if it’s full, lay your scene in fair Verona, in a rambling building above the local chamber of com- Panda Bar D-6, Rr. e Mborjës. Quite unique for this part
and for something special, order the Korça cannelloni just across the street. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (400-600 merce, this bar hasn’t made it into the new millennium of Europe, Korça has a ramshackle but pleasant beer garden
or call in advance to order lamb and koran (Lake Ohrid lek). PS unscathed. The sea-themed décor is a bit outdated, but directly beside the Birra Korça brewery. Both types of Birra
trout) dishes. There’s an elegant dining room upstairs even though the full-sized snogging mermaid in the mural Korça brews are served, along with cheap grilled snacks.
with an open grill, and a rustic cellar space. Q Open Verona C-4, Blv. Republika, tel. +355 82 25 28 28. A does her best to cheer you up, you’ll need more than one In summer, it’s quite lively with families coming to enjoy the
13:00 - 24:00. PGS quiet, modern pizzeria along the main drag, right opposite drink to process it emotionally. On the plus side, there’s a weather and live music.QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. EB
Antic and alike in dignity. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (400-700 wood burning stove cosily crackling away. QOpen 08:00
Cafés lek). PSW - 14:00, 17:00-24:00.
Clubs
Mësonjtorja C-5, Blv. Themistokli Germenji, tel. +355 Piazza C-5, Rr. 6 Dëshmorët, tel. +355 68 207 45 60. Omega D-3, Rinia Park, tel. +355 82 24 63 00. A bar set
69 204 77 48. Near the First Albanian School museum, this Out of town A popular new bar, built in the characteristic Korça style, with in the park behind the St Sotir church, with plenty of outside
modern bar with cubist and old paintings on the walls is fine Prince Park Rruga Korça-Pogradec. Family fun can be two floors, a basement level and a buzzing terrace overlook- seating and a small stage on the roof. There’s a strange
for a relaxed coffee. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. found 10km out of Korça on the Pogradec road. This modern ing the cathedral. Next door to Shtëpia 1821. Q Open interior with blue-lit stairs curling down into a space with
entertainment complex has a bar with indoor and outdoor 07:00 - 24:00. Klimt-inspired art. Come on Thursdays and Saturdays when
Niva Akullore B-4, Blv. Gjerg j Kastrioti. Delicious ice seating, a garden, children’s playground and a small football DJs do their disco nights. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
cream, of both the scooped and machine varieties. Look field. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. B Premier C-5, Blv. Themistokli Germenji, tel. +355 82
for the shop decorated with juggling penguins.Q Open 25 18 99/+355 68 206 27 44. Just down the street from
Live music
09:00 - 20:00.
Turkish the First Albanian School museum in a modern highrise
complex, Premier has the nicest outdoor seating area in Skena Park B-3, Rr. 1 Maji, tel. +355 82 25 49
Serenata B-5, Rr. Ismail Qemali 7, tel. +355 82 24 38 Liceu Taverna C-5, Rr. Sotir Gurra, tel. +355 82 25 town, a terrace with parasols beside a gurgling fountain. 54/+355 68 201 00 94. The most popular bar in town
67. The café inside the Regency hotel is a convenient spot 28 06. An old building opposite the imposing French school There’s live music here on summer weekends. Inside, there’s attracts people from all over the country to listen to the
for foreigner travellers to meet up. Simple surroundings, good houses the Liceu Taverna. Entered through a garden with an a stylish café that’s fine for a quick coffee break. QOpen famous Prifti Brothers and other artists singing traditional
coffee. QOpen 24hrs. PALGW old well, it has four cosy rooms with wooden furniture. On the 07:00 - 24:00. EB and modern songs, many of them typically Korçan. It’s best
menu are well-prepared Turkish specialities, grilled meat, fresh to ask before visiting to check if there’s a performance. Q
Sky Café C-5/6, Blv. Republika, tel. +355 82 25 30 fish and salads. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. B Privileg j C-3, Blv. Republika. A popular but dimly lit tri- Open Fri & Sat 22:00-03:00. EB
70. Just south of the cathedral, the café perched on top angular bar amidst a clutch of nightlife options at the far end
of a modern high-rise building offers the best views over of Blv. Republika. Good for a quick coffee or beer. QOpen
central Korça. The terrace seating is perfect but the lounge 18:30 - 22:30.
bar inside, where the locals prefer to huddle and smoke, has
windows that are useless for scanning the horizon. This was Royal Park D-3, Rinia Park. A simple bar at the far end
the first place in Korça to have wifi. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. of Rinia Park, at the point where everyone turns around and
PGBW strolls back. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.

Instant Korça 2009 - 2010

7 what to see what to see 8

Though small, Korça has a fantastic range of sights the schools, with success. The school continued to function
in and just outside its city limits. Boulevard Republika Archaeology until the building was turned into a museum in 1960. Industrial tourism
is a good street for a stroll, and on summer evening Exhibits inside the former classrooms show documents that
you’ll be joined by hundreds of locals doing their xhiro Kamenica Tumulus (Tuma e Kamenicës) Ka- are important to the development of Albanian education such Birra Korça Brewery D-6, Blv. Fan Noli 1, tel. +355
promenade when the street is closed off for traffic. menica village, 8km south of Korça, tel. +355 69 268 as the first written Albanian text (‘The mass’, written by a 82 25 40 33/+355 82 24 29 65, info@birrakorca.
It’s lined by old villas with decorative metal railings, 70 09/+355 69 265 97 95, info@kamenicatumulus. Catholic priest) and the very first student book. com.al, www.birrakorca.com. Korça’s industrial pride,
flower gardens and fragrant linden trees. Do take the org, www.kamenicatumulus.org. A prehistoric burial The story of the Albanian alphabet is interesting too, as it was and Albania’s only good-looking factory, is the beer
time to explore the old streets away from the modern mound near Korça has been partly excavated and is now a language with no written history that was spelled in a mix brewery at the eastern end of town. Founded in 1928 by
boulevards - you can find typical old cobbled streets open to the public, accompanied by an excellent little of Greek and Turkish letters until the current alphabet with the Italian Umberto Uberti, the brewery was in service
between Blv. Gjergi Kastrioti and Blv. Republika, museum (quite rare in Albania) with with an instructive 36 Latin-based letters was accepted in 1908. until 2004, after which it was thoroughly renovated. The
though the prettiest streets are directly behind the DVD and English-speaking staff that can guide you around Outside the museum, there’s a charming concrete statue of pretty yellow buildings have been lovingly restored, and
cathedral. the site. The mound was used between the 13th to 6th the ABC with a large writing feather and pot of ink. We’re told visitors are welcome to tour the facilities.
centuries BC, and visitors can view several discoveries: the exhibition will be in for a well-needed renovation soon, but Birra Korça makes ‘blond’ beer and is also the only brew-
we hope they hang on to the wonderful socialist ABC curtains.
Churches the ‘Big Circle’ around the central grave and several
monumental structures. The tumulus site is marked with Phoning ahead is a good idea, otherwise rattle the museum
ery in the Balkans to make dark beer, using the Czech and
Italian technology. It brews 120.000 hectoliters of beer
Church of the Ascension (Kisha e Ristozit) Mborja flags, 8km south of Korça along the road to Gjirokastra. gates to attend the guard of your presence. QOpen 08:30 annually. The specific taste originates from the traditional
village. One of the best sights in Korça is this tiny, quiet Q Open 09:00-19:00 May-Sept, 08:00-16:00 Oct-Apr. - 14:30; 17:00-19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 12:00; 17:00-19:00. five-stage production method, and fermentation and
chapel in a village just east of town. This magnificent 14th Closed Mon. Admission 200/100 lek. Closed Mon. Admission free. maturation takes place in the twelve huge 500 hectoliter
century Byzantine church is painted with brightly-coloured tanks poking out of the building. All ingredients except for
frescoes that UNESCO specialists describe as being among Medieval Art Museum (Muzeu Kombëtar i Artit water are imported from Germany, Czech Republic and
the best in the Balkans. In the narthex, the entrance hallway, Archaeology Museum (Muzeu Kombëtar Arke- Mesjetar) C-5, Rr. Kryengritja e Qershot. The best Italy. Highlight of the tour is the brewing room where the
note the Day of Judgement fresco which shows a dragon olog jik) C-5, Rr. Mihal Grameno, tel. +355 82 22 52 museum in Korça, and one of the best in the country, has massive steel brewing tanks are surrounded by tile tab-
swallowing sinners in a river of fire, above some vivid il- 800/+355 69 26 23 217. Housed in two charming and a collection of 6,500 icons from Southern Albania as well leaus depicting the brewing process and the consumption
lustrations of what happens to sinners and non-believers; well-preserved Ottoman-era buildings around a cobblestone as 1,500 other objects, of which some 200 icons and 50 of the end product, with devils helping brew the beer,
devils gleefully ride atop people, wrench off noses, drill holes courtyard that are worth a visit alone, the town’s archaeology metal objects are on display in this curious building. Once pretty girls serving it and rowdy punters having a party.
into heads and span people in front of ploughs... believe museum holds 1,200 Hellenic, Roman and Paleo-Byzantine the most important Orthodox church of Korça, the Mitropolia The brewery is happy to receive visitors and conduct
or burn! Unfortunately some frescoes are damaged by objects from 6000 BCE to 600 CE. Highlights of the museum church was ‘renovated’ beyond recognition and opened as a 30-60 minute tours of the factory in Albanian or English.
ignorant tourists and electricians. Serious art lovers should are a Byzantine-era floor mosaic and various Roman graves. museum in 1987 – you can still recognise bits of the church Phone ahead to make an appointment. Beer tasting is
bring a flashlight to illuminate details in the dark interior. Call ahead to make sure the museum is open. Q Open inside and next door in the newly re-established Shën Gjerg j not part of the tour, but the adjacent Panda Bar serves
The church can be found in the centre of Mborja. Follow the 08:00-14:00 Mon-Thu, 08:00-12:00 Fri, closed Sat, Sun. church. Starting with icons from the 14th century, most icons both types of Birra Korça.QTours by appointment. Open
signs out of town past the brewery and the George hotel Admission 200/100 lek. are from the 16th-19th centuries. Many are from Voskopoja, 07:30-15:30, Sat 07:30-15:00, Sun closed.
to Mborja; the church is in the village centre, a 20 minute which in the 17th was one of the main centres for iconog-
walk uphill from central Korça. If the church is closed, ask Bratko Museum of Oriental Art (Muzeu Bratko) raphy in the Balkans. Orthodox art is highly regulated, and Carpet factory B-3, Rr. 1 Maji, tel. +355 69 271
around for the key. D-6, Blv. Fan Noli, tel. +355 82 24 30 56/+355 69 all icons had to be painted following precise instructions, 69 45. Korça has been a centre for carpet-making for
215 65 61, http://users.rcn.com/laura2. This curious with a fixed position prescribed for each saint; Mary can centuries, and this factory (the largest of its kind in Alba-
Or thodox Cathedral (Katedralja Ngallja e building combining a traditional Japanese tori gate with only be depicted in nine poses. Note the two icons of St. nia) is the one place where you can see women making
Krishtit) C-5, Blv. Republika. Korça’s Or th odox modern architecture houses the art collection of the Albanian- George that incorporate grisly martyrdom scenes, with the Turkish-style kilims and other carpets. Visitors are
Cathedral of the Ressurection was completely rebuilt in American Dhimitër Boria (1903-1990). Boria emigrated from Turks (representing evil of course) inflicting unimaginable welcome to have a look and buy carpets too; it’s best
1992 after the previous church on this site, St. George Albania when he was 17, attending art school in Detroit cruelty upon unwitting Christians who immediately acquire to call ahead.
cathedral, was destroyed by the Communist authorities before working in Hollywood in an early animation studio haloes. The museum’s highlight is the collection of icons by
in 1968. Now the impressive pink building is the largest and as silhouette artist. Boria became a photographer for the 16th century Albanian master Onufri, which stand out for
church in Albania, and the second largest in the Balkans. the US Army in 1942 travelled widely in Europe and Asia. He their vivid colours and wonderful detail. Onufri started his works (though 60 are in Tirana’s National Museum). Korça’s
Inside, the modest white interior is is dominated by a huge started to collect Oriental art of which some 400 artefacts career in Berat but made his finest works later in Gjirokastra. streets and surroundings haven’t changed that much judg-
carved wooden iconostasis. Also note the Albanian eagles are exhibited in this museum that’s named after his mother. Phone ahead to make sure the museum is open. Postcards ing by Mio’s beautiful paintings. Three nude paintings from
carved into the chairs. The exhibition has pottery, jewellery, textiles and furniture and an English-language booklet are for sale at the entrance. the artist’s Roman period in the 1920s are on display too.
on display from 17 Asian countries. Look out for the Tibetan QOpen 08:00 - 14:00; 17:00-19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - Interestingly, Mio had to stop painting nudes as the local girls
Spring of Life church (Kisha e Burimi Jeted- tanka cloths, the Indian Hindi and Buddhist statues, the silver 12:00; 17:00-19:00. Admission 200 lek. didn’t want to pose naked as eagerly as Italian ladies. The
henes) C-5, Rr. Kryengritja e Qershot. This church, lobsters and chickens, and the fabulous Indonesian masks. lovely two-storey traditional Ottoman-era building housing the
near the Mitropolitan offices and also known as the Some but not all exhibits have English-language captions. It’s Sotir Studio, tel. +355 82 24 73 95/+355 69 227 museum is worth a visit alone, as it has many original carved
Mi tropoli tan church, was unlu ckil y sele cted by th e a good idea to phone ahead to confirm the museum is open. 46 45. Korça-born Kristaq Sotiri (1883-1970) worked as a wooden ornaments and ceilings (some of them painted too).
communist authorities to be used for the Museum of QOpen 09:00-13:00, 16:00-17:00, Sat, Sun by appoint- photographer in New York and Los Angeles between 1903 Find the museum at the rear of the cathedral. Call in advance.
Medieval Art in the 1980s, and was subsequently nearly ment. Admission 100 lek. and 1923, cooperating with the famous George Steckel, Q Open by appointment only. Admission 50 lek.
completely destroyed to be turned into a bland concrete before moving back and opening a studio together with
bunker. However, the side entrance leads to the new First Albanian School (Mësonjëtorja e Parë Shq-
Shën Gjerg j church at the back of the building, where ipe, Muzeu i Arsimit) C-5, Blv. Themistokli Germenji,
painter Vang jush Mio. Using his American skills and tech-
niques, he photographed portraits, urban life and cultural Ottoman Korça
the original 18th centur y wooden iconostasis can be tel. +355 69 246 17 92. Focus of considerable pride and events. Some 14,000 photos survive in the Sotir family’s Bazaar (Pazari tradicional) B-5, Rr. Naum Kristo
viewed. The car vings in the dark wood are impressive, symbol of national awakening under Ottoman rule, the first private collection, and it’s possible to make an appointment Vokopoja. The slightly chaotic Old Bazaar district is perhaps
though not all icons remain. Q Open 08:00-15:00, secular school with subjects taught in Albanian was opened in to see a selection. the best place in town to get an idea of how the bustling
Sat, Sun closed. Korça on March 7, 1887. Until then, education was only given trade town of Korça must have been in Ottoman times, when
by travelling teachers. Korça was a logical place for the first Vang jush Mio Museum (Muzeu Vang jush Mio) merchants from as far away as Russia, Turkey, Greece and
C-5, Rr. Pavllo Katro. The gifted impressionist artist
Museums school, as it was Albania’s largest and most developed city,
with many trade links to the east as well as to Western Europe Vang jush Mio (1891-1957) had a remarkable painting career
Italy came here to buy and sell at the 1,000 shops, staying
at inns like the Han Elbasan. The haphazardly built street
Korça’s charming museums are well wor th visiting and the USA, and an open attitude to foreign influence and encompassing 40 years, producing over 400 paintings and stalls are piled high with all kinds of goods, from shoes and
and can all be seen in a relaxed morning or a fter- change. Though the school was originally mixed, a special 300 sketches. He studied art at Bucharest’s art high school clothes to car parts and watches, and there’s no better area
noon, but as they are often found locked during girls’ school was opened soon after, in 1891. The Ottoman in 1919 and continued to study art at Rome university in town to find a cheap traditional snack of byrek or grilled
opening hours it’s best to phone ahead. You can rulers tolerated the schools as Albanians came in handy in before returning to Korça in 1924. Painting mostly Albanian meat. The area burnt down many times over the years, but
ask an Albanian-speaker to call, but the Tourist the Ottoman Army, but after Albanians began to request landscapes and portraits, Mio also made scenes for the the area was always restored. The remaining shophouses
In formation Centre will also arrange this for you, too many liberties in following decades, their schools were local theatre and was the topic of a dozen exhibitions both are a very quaint backdrop for all the bustle, but many seem
and can also provide a guide to help explain and closed. This resulted in mass protest - in 1910 some 12,000 in Albania and abroad. The artist’s daughter Rozeta shows like they could collapse any minute. Come in the morning or
translate. people met in Korça (and later in other cities too) to defend visitors around the handful of rooms that show Mio’s best early afternoon for the liveliest scenes.

Instant Korça 2009 - 2010

9 what to see pogradec 10

Han Elbasan B-5, Rr. Naum Kristo Vokopoja. Once an

essential part of all bazaars from the Balkans to Central Dardha Pogradec tourist information
Asia, Korça’s original han (inn) is one of just two in the Bal-
kans still functioning as a hotel (the other is in Bucharest). Mention Dardha to anyone in Korça you’ll instantly get a Internet & Tourist Information Center (Qendra
Built by a Greek trader over 200 years ago, it was a safe smile, so good is the reputation of this small mountain village. InkuSat Cyberspace) Rr. Reshit Collaku, Pall. 23,
place where travelling salesmen could feed and groom their Lovelier than any other village in Albania, Dardha is set in the tel. +355 83 22 60 80, [email protected], www.
horses, conduct business, eat, sleep and of course enjoy Morava mountains, 20 kilometres southwest of Korça, at pogradec.info. A good internet café (100 lek/hr) where
some hanky-panky. This han was mainly used by traders 1344 metres above sea level and has about 50 permanent the multilingual manager (English, Italian, French, Dutch)
from Elbasan. Built around a cobbled courtyard with a well, inhabitants. The village is sheltered by the Shën Pjeter and doubles as the local unofficial voluntary tourist information
roses and a gate to keep out unwanted visitors, the han had the rugged Guri i Vjeshtës (Autumn Rock) mountains and is officer and Fedex representative. His website is the best
stables for horses downstairs, and simple rooms upstairs surrounded by flowering fields, orchards and forests, making local site about Pogradec. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
along a gallery. Immediately after World War II, the inn was it an ideal base for hikes in the surroundings.
used as a base by the UK and US forces before returning to
its original function as a simple hotel. Founded in 1600 by Orthodox Christians escaping from good condition. Unfortunately, the whole complex is protected
The han still functions as a hotel, but visitors are welcome Ottoman conversion campaigns, Darhda is famous for by a hideous modern concrete roof. Lin is along the road and
to look around the picturesque courtyard and galleries. Many felt processing (incorporated in the local black/red folk railway between Pogradec and Elbasan. A taxi from Pogradec
guests in the dirt-cheap rooms are unfortunate would-be emi- dress), Dharda had 500 houses in the early 1900s. to Lin and back will cost around 1500 lek. Always call ahead
grants who have been kicked out of Greece and are waiting Nowadays, the village consists of a few narrow cobbled Street scene in Pogradec’ old town to be sure that the site is open. Q Open 08:00-16:00, later
for a new chance to get in. Ask for former maths teacher, DIY streets winding between stone houses, many of which are in the summer months. Admission 200 lek.
philosopher and long-term han resident Ilija who may be at decorated with carved symbols and retain their traditional
hand to sit and chat with you in English about life in Korça. flagstone roof tiles. Most of the village’s stone houses look A town of modest pretentions, Pogradec (pronounced Shkumbin valley sights
rather smart after recent renovations, yet there are few PO-gra-dets) enjoys a wonderful setting on the shore of Several ancient and medieval curiosities can be found in the
Mirahor Mosque (Xhamia e Iljaz Bej Mirahorit) modern additions to spoil the atmosphere. magnificent Lake Ohrid, 40km north of Korça. Though its upper reaches of the Shkumbin river valley, 30km northwest
B-5, Rr. Xhavit Dishnica. Korça’s venerable mosque from history goes back to the Iron Age, the town has a modern of Pogradec, a relatively untouched site of the ancient trading
1484, the oldest in Albania, was founded by Iljaz Bey Mirahor, Dharda has few specific sights, though it’s worth entering appearance. With its long sandy beach, fresh air and vari- routes between the Adriatic and the lands beyond the lake.
who played an important role in the seige of Constantinopel the small Shën Gjergj (Saint George) church for its old ous sights in the surroundings, Pogradec can be visited en The first sight in the valley is the impressive Ottoman-era
in 1453. The modest building looks a bit battered and its icons. Scattered along the streets are several public route to Korça or Ohrid. Golik Bridge (Ura e Golikut) with its three arches.
minaret was only recently restored after being knocked down fountains and wells spouting natural mineral water, The word Pogradec is of slavic origin, meaning ‘below the A group of five monumental tombs can be found in the
by an earthquake long ago, but it’s a true survivor. The build- believed locally to cure all manner of ailments. Drink small town’, and the scant ruins of a 5th-century castle rocks near Selcë e Poshtme village, the main settlement
ing is usually locked up, but before and after prayertime the sulpher-spiced water from the aptly named Uji i Qelbur high up on the hill indicate there was once an Illyrian settle- in the valley. Dating back to the 4th century BC, one in the
community is happy to show you the interior with it’s depic- (‘filthy water’) spring if you have stomach problems. ment here. shape of an amphitheatre, and another with two storeys and
tions of Islam’s holy cities Medina and Mecca. Modern-day Pogradec is pleasant enough for a stroll. Just decorated colonnades. The graves may well have been for
Apart from the pretty streets and mountain views, the local west of the Enkelana hotel is a newly pedestrianised street Illyrian kings, but grave robbers struck in the 1st century, and
Turan Tekke Turan village, www.komunitetibektashi. cuisine is a reason to visit; Dardha is famous for its huge with old houses that show something of the fishing village very few artifacts remained. The narrow track leading to the
org. The temple in Turan village, 2km west of Korça along the fire-baked lakror onion and tomato pies, the unusual side that was once here. Nearby, the modern concrete Ebu Bekr tombs best tackled by 4WD car; call tel. +355 69 262 32 17
road to Voskopoja, is where Bektashis meet and pray. The dishes like snails, mushrooms and corn flour pie, all best mosque has an unusual double-balconied minaret. to see if the graves are open.
originally Persian Sufi order which is part of the Islamic mystic washed down with the local raki pear liquor. Further east, the Church of the Resurrection (Ringjallja A few kilometres further, Potkozhan village is worth visiting for
tradition considered blasphemous in many eastern Muslim e Hyjlindëses) at the end of Rr. Kajo Karafili I sthe main its traditional stone houses and for the diminutive medieval
countries, fled to Albania after Turkish leader Kemal Ataturk The annual village festival is on Shën Maria (St Mary’s; 16 Orthodox church in town. The St. Mary Dormition church St. Demetrios (Shën Bitri) church which retains its original fres-
banned all Sufi orders in 1925. Bektashis are Muslims and August), when the road is clogged with people returning to (Kisha Fjetja e Hyjëlindëses) can be found in the Lagja e coes; ask around for someone to unlock the church if you find
believe in one God, but their liberal understanding of this is the ancestral home for the day, and everybody dresses Toplecit area. it closed. At Potkozhan it’s possible to stay in guesthouses
close to pantheism; Bektashis venerate the wider prophetic up in their best folk clothes and joins in the religious A sandy beach fringed by a well-tended park stretches and enjoy the local food and raki.
family and are noted for their tolerance of other faiths. The rituals and traditional dances. In winter, some hardy for over a kilometre along the lakeshore from the centre. The valley is best approached from Urakë on the Elbasan
local leader is Baba Mondi Brahimaj. types attempt to ski on the slopes around the village, However, it’s not recommended to swim here until the new road; there’s a direct gravel road to Pogradec but that is
though there are no rental or lift facilities at all. sewage treatment plant is functional. impassable in wet weather. A daytrip by sturdy taxi will cost
up to 3000 lek.
Parks Dardha can be reached across basic gravel roads by car Drilon springs
Park of Tears (Lëndina e lotëve) C-3, Blv. Republika. or taxi; there’s no minibus service. Heading south out of
The small triangular park at the bottom end of Bld. Republika Korça, turn left into Boboshtica after passing the new
Near the border 5km east of Pogradec, Drilon is a lush and
delightful park set around the ponds where crystal-clear water Pogradec hotels
has a sad name as it was where the main road out of town prison, and left again at the World War II monument, originating from Lake Prespa bubbles up from the side of Mali Enkelana Rr. Reshit Çollaku, tel. +355 83 22 20 10,
started, and it was here that the women waved a final goobye pass the Shën Maria church and follow the road up i Thate (‘dry’) mountain at an amazing 7 cubic metres per fax +355 83 22 21 73. The former state hotel dominating
to their menfolk, who were hauled into senseless wars or to into the gorge. second. You can feed the ducks and swans and rent a boat the town centre has been modernised and now has decent,
find work elsewhere. It’s a quiet little place now - the town for a quiet paddle around. The Vila Art restaurant (tel. +355 simple rooms, some overlooking the lake. Q 46 rooms (34
has expanded, and the local women have modernised and Accommodation is available in a handful of village homes 68 225 32 45) serves coffee, snacks and Albanian food. The doubles 2,500-3,000 lek, 6 triples 3,500-4,000 lek, 6 suites
are as mobile as the men now. where one or two rooms are available for guests, at about small village of Tushemist, a few hundred metres east of the 5,000-6,000 lek). PHAULKW
1000 lek per room. It’s difficult to book ahead so it’s best park, is worth a visit for its 6th century St. Pantaleon church
Rinia Park D-3, Rr. e Bilishtit. The Youth Park is a lovely to simply ask around on arrival. The Shtëpia e Pushimit with its original floor mosaic. Drilon can be reached by the
green expanse along a hillside just out of town. Pine trees
shade old men on benches from the hot sun, children zip
(tel. 069 266 60 10/069 214 85 75; 15 rooms, 600 lek
per person) is a rather basic converted workers resort,
bus to Tushemist, departing from near the Orthodox church
daily at 08:30, 09:30, 10:30, 12:30, 13:30 and 16:00 (tickets
Pogradec transport
giggling around on electric cars and several restaurants and with small rooms, a few dorm rooms, shared showers, 30 lek), on one of the irregular furgon minibuses (50 lek) from Pogradec town is small enough to walk around, though
bars cater to thirsty and hungry strollers. Pity the fountains a restaurant with pool table and terrace. the same point, or by taxi (200 lek). taxis can be found at the main hotels if necessary. To
are dry. order a taxi, have an Albanian speaker contact Liri Taxi
The best meals are to be had at the local’s homes; ask Lin Mosaic (Mozaiku i Linit) Lin village, tel. +355 69 (tel. +355 69 235 09 38) or Bexhet Allko Taxi (tel. +355
around or look for Mrs. Stolie Mekolli for the best lakror 26 23 217. The paleochristian basilica on a hill by pretty 68 219 68 69). A ride to Drilon park or the Macedonian
pie in town, though don’t expect fast service; order, go for Lin village, on a peninsula 20km north of Pogradec on the border will cost about 200 lek, or 50 lek in a shared
a walk and come back later. Alternatively, the Batelli bar western lakeshore, may no longer have any roof or walls, it taxi. Furgon minibuses to Korça, Elbasan and Tirana
and restaurant along the road at the top of the village is does retain some stunning mosaics dating to the 6th century. depart very regularly between early morning and mid-
a great place for traditional food, served on the grassy Similar in style to the early medieval mosaics in Ohrid, just afternoon, trawling for customers along the main road;
terrace with its great views. across the lake, biblical scenes, flowers, animals, and many simply flag one down.
other things are depicted on the old church floor, some in very

Instant Korça 2009 - 2010

11 pogradec voskopoja 12

Natyra e Qete Rruga Nacionale Pogradec, tel. +355 Amidst high mountains, forests and rolling green fields
Travelling to Macedonia 83 22 60 80/+355 68 208 29 93. Well-known for its fish some 18 kilometres west of Korça, Voskopoja is a Vlachs in Albania
and grilled meat, Natyra e Qete is a large restaurant sited Balkan oddity; a village that was once a bustling town and
With Macedonia within sight across the lake, it’s easy 4km along the main road north of Pogradec. Q (600-800 Balkan cultural centre. Set at 1150 metres above sea Voskopoja is historically a centre for Vlachs or Aroma-
to travel between Pogradec and Ohrid, stopping off at lek). PB level, Voskopoja was founded in 1338 in an isolated and nians, an originally nomadic minority speaking a Latin
the beautiful Sveti Naum monastery, right next to the defensible location. Also known as Moschopolis to Greeks language close to Romanian, who as shepherds spread
Macedonian checkpoint. There are rumours of a new Mateo Disko Shëtitorja Rinia, tel. +355 69 269 08 and Moscopole to Vlachs, it grew steadily to become one widely throughout Central and Eastern Europe since early
ferry service between the two towns starting in sum- 96. Pogradec’ craziest structure is this crashed UFO float- of the larger urban centres in the Balkans, and may have medieval times.
mer 2009, but till then the easiest way is to take a taxi ing around on the lake. Wobble across the gangplank into had up to 30,000 inhabitants in the 18th century. The town Aromanians, the Vlachs in the southern Balkans who
to Ohrid, costing 2,000 lek or 500 lek in a shared taxi, the round bar for house music and cocktails or take in the profited greatly from trading along the shortest land route have been strongly influenced by Greek culture, are
taking under one hour. You can also take a taxi to the lake views from the tooftop terrace. Open in summer only. between Istanbul and Venice, and was also a major centre spread mainly in northern and central Greece and in
border (200 lek), walk across the 500m of no man’s QOpen 19:00 - 05:00. of Orthodox culture (despite the Ottoman occupation) with Albania, where up to 200,000 Aromanians can be found
land, and hop on a bus (or an infrequent ferry) to Ohrid 22 churches, a school, library and dozens of workshops in the area south of Vlora. Voskopoja, or Moscopole as
at Sveti Naum (the bus runs every two hours, costing Oxygen Beach Bar Rr. 10 Deshmorët e Pojskës, tel. producing crafts, books (from the Balkans’ first printing they called it, was an important urban centre for the
120 denars). Coming from Ohrid, you can expect taxis +355 69 209 19 90, www.oxygenbeachbar.com. A press) and religious artworks, including icons. For a while Vlachs. Korça, called Curcea in Aromanian, is the site of
to be waiting on the Albanian side of the border between popular beach bar, a few hundred metres east of the centre it was even the largest town in the Balkan region. Ottoman Albania’s only Vlach church, sponsored by the Romanian
09:00 and 19:00 (16:00 in winter); alternatively walk to along the lakeshore. This is the best place to have coffee or campaigns in the late 18th century spelled the end of government, and also still has a Vlach district. Nowadays,
Tushemist village (10 minutes) or Drilon Park (15 minutes) fresh juice during the day, watch the sunset with a cocktails Voskopoja’s glory years. Voskopoja’s end finally came in Aromanian language is seldom heard in Albania, though
and catch the bus to Pogradec there. Note that most in hand, and hit the dancefloor. Open June-Sept. QOpen the 20th century, when battles in World War I and partizan there are attempts to revive the culture and start lan-
foreigners entering Albania need to pay a €1 land border 09:00 - 04:00. warfare during World War II destroyed most of the town. guage education in some schools.
fee (leaving costs nothing); ask for a receipt. The border Now only seven churches, a handful of houses and some
crossing is open 24 hours per day. When travelling on to Tea Shetitorja Fan Noli, tel. +355 83 22 29 47. A mod- old cobbled streets still remain.
Skopje, check out our online and print Skopje In Your est restaurant serving pizza, fish and the usual grilled meat trout-farm-cum-restaurants, Ura e Kovacë and Taverna
Pocket city guide. dishes. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. B The Shën Kolle (St. Nicholas) church from 1721 was the Peshku, are located halfway up the road to Voskopoja;
only church to be protected in the Communist era (the both have seats beside the fish ponds and serve good-
Tek Mollët Rr. 10 Deshmorët e Pojskës, Lg j. 1, tel. others were used for storage) and is the only church reliably value, freshly grilled trout. Although Voskopoja is an
+355 69 269 27 78. Local pies, meat dishes and two guest open to visitors. It has an elegant painted gallery and a easy daytrip from Korça, consider staying the night to
Millennium 1&2 Rruga Pogradec-Tushemisht, rooms. Call ahead to check it’s serving food today.QOpen dark and moody interior, with fantastic examples of wood enjoy the peace. There are several simple guesthouses
tel. +355 68 228 39 11. Along the lakeside between 12:00 - 23:00. carving and sooty wall frescoes. The most valuable icons with rooms for tourists in the village, best found by
Pogradec and the border at Tushemisht, this hotel has have been moved to the Medieval Art Museum in Korça. If asking around. Along the road east out of Voskopoja
a pleasant garden overlooking the lake and a popular V Pogradec Rr. Naim Frashëri, tel. +355 83 22 45 you find the church closed, simply ask around for someone towards the St. Prodhomi monastery, the renovated
restaurant. The newly built annex has more modern fa- 54. Traditional Pogradec cooking. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. with the key. Hotel Akademia complex (tel. +355 69 225 86 46; 27
cilities and conference rooms. Q 50 rooms (29 doubles (400-800 lek). rooms: 16 doubles and 11 chalets, 3,000-4,000 lek)
2,000-3,000 lek, 17 triples 3,500 lek, 4 suites 5,000 Another church worth visiting is the Shën Athanasi (Saint has simple rooms and new chalets (some with fireplace)
lek). HALW Athanasius) church, set between fields just east of the overlooking gardens and forests; call to check when loud

Perla Shëtitorja 1 Maji, tel. +355 83 22 37 70/+355 83, Great lakes: Ohrid and Prespa village; it’s damaged but enjoys a pretty setting and has
several well-preserved frescoes. Finally, the Shën Mëhill
parties take place.

fax +355 83 22 66 88, [email protected]. The nicest (Saint Michael) and Shën Ilia (Saint Ilia) churches are worth
Pogradec overlooks Lake Ohrid (Liqeni I Ohrit), the
rooms in this modern hotel are on the top floors, offering the a look – finding someone to unlock these churches can
deepest tectonic lake in the Balkans (298 metres) and
best views of the lake, some 50 metres in front of the hotel. be difficult, however. In the woods, a bumpy 2 kilometres
one of the oldest lakes in the world, formed 4 million
All corner rooms have a dainty circular balcony that pokes out beyond the village, lies the the Monastery of Shën Prodhomi
years ago. Set at 695 metres above sea level and
of the building. Q 20 rooms (5 doubles 3,000 lek, 11 triples (St. Prodhon), a peaceful complex with a charming 17th-
shared with Macedonia, one third of the 358 square
4,000 lek, 4 suites 5,000 lek). PALKW century brick church in the courtyard. The guard is usually
kilometre surface is Albanian. The lake is fed by vari-
at hand to unlock the gate and let you in. The church
ous rivers (including an underground river from Lake
Royal Rr. Reshit Çollaku, tel. +355 83 22 31 58, fax Prespa popping up at Drilon) and exits to the north in the
celebrates Saint Prodhon’s day every year on June 24,
+355 83 22 31 59, [email protected]. A when it’s the site of a well-attended religious festival. The
Black Drin. Ohrid is home to various endemic species
newly renovated lakeside hotel with good rooms and a lovely Vlahos festival, celebrating Vlach/Aromanian culture, is
of plants and animals, including the koran, a ancient
rooftop terrace for enjoying breakfast or a drink. Q 18 rooms held annually on July 4.
and very tasty variety of trout, the Ohrid sponge and
(10 doubles 3,500 lek, 5 triples 4,000 lek, 3 family rooms
various molluscs.
4,000 lek). PAULKW There’s a daily morning bus from Korça to Voskopoja.
Other wise, you can char ter a taxi for the ride. The
Lake Prespa, set at 850 metres above sea level,
Vila Bimbli Shëtitorja 1 Maji, tel. +355 83 22 25 20km north of Korça and shared with Macedonia
roads all the way up to the monastery are accessible
16/+355 69 223 20 57. A gleaming pink-and-white near for cars. Voskopoja is perfect for a picnic in a flowery
and Greece, is another beautiful tectonic lake fringed
the city centre. The rooms are well-appointed, though it’s the field – brings supplies from Korça. There’s a restaurant
by bare mountains. The whole area is a national park
top floor suite with its huge private terrace with lake views serving Albanian dishes at the Hotel Akademia. Two
and is excellent for bird-watching. The region also has
that impresses most. Downstairs, there’s a pleasant garden
important Byzantine sites – the tiny uninhabited island
terrace. Q 12 rooms (4 doubles 2,500-3,000 lek, 6 triples
of Maligrad in the Albanian part of the lake has the
3,000 lek, 2 suites 4,000 lek). LKW
amazing 14th-century Kisha e Shën Meri (St. Mary’s Vithkuqi
church), in a cave set high in a cliff at the top of a
Pogradec Food & Drink rickety wooden ladder. It’s possible to spend the night The nearby village of Vithkuqi, 25km southwest of Korça
and reached by minibus or taxi, is a picturesque and
and taste the local food (including carp, sardines, fish-
Although well-known for the fresh fish from Lake Ohrid, stuffed byrek and meze) at modest guesthouses and ancient mountain village with mineral water springs and
central Pogradec does not have many attractive restau- restaurants in Liqenas, Goricë e Vogël and Gollomboç several Orthodox churches that are worth a visit, most
rants yet. For a special meal, locals often head for the villages, reached by taxi or minibus from Korça. The notably that of Shën Pjetër (Saint Peter) monastery.
lakeside restaurants a short drive north and east of town. best sandy beach is at Liqenas/Zaroshkë. Village Vithkuqi suffered the same fate as Voskopoja and was
festivals take place on various religious holidays; in wrecked several times since the 18th century. A calm and
Blealb Rruga Nacionale Pogradec - Qafe Thane, tel. Zaroshkë on 12 July, in Kallamas on 20 July and in pretty village remains now, with several guesthouses and
+355 69 229 18 44. A well-known lakeside restaurant Cerje on 28 August. restaurants. Annual village fairs take place on June 29, St.
offering views over to Macedonia. There’s a beach here Peter’s day, and on July 10, St. Nikodhim’s day.
too.Q(500-700 lek). PB The Shën Athanasi church in Voskopoja

Instant Korça 2009 - 2010

13 directory 2 B OQ
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C D E 2 2
Korça
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AS
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EC
AN IN

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RE
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N

G
SA

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JA

Ark

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RU

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A
T

UG
IA

EH
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Banks Institutions
RG

RR
KIÇ
JO

ET

O
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NU
US

GO
I
OQ

ÇI
AI

LIK
FL

Ark

U
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Alpha Bank Blv. Fan Noli, tel. +355 82 25 43 13, Fan S. Noli University D-3, Rr. e Bilishtit, tel. +355 82

NIK
O
EM
KR I
AR

AL

O
OP

PA
BU

KO
NO
O
AZ

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www.alpha.gr. 24 36 09/+355 82 24 89 44.

KA

VA
LL

XH
PIR
ÇA

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AM

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Emporiki Bank B-4, Blv. Gjerg j Kastrioti, tel. +355 82 Korça municipality (Bashkia) B-5, Rr. 28 Nëntori,

BA
K AC
LI
3 3 3

LL
VE O

PE
LL

O
I

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25 49 12, www.emporikibank.gr. tel./fax +355 82 24 33 53, tel. +355 82 24 30 55, www.
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PU
JE

SH
NO

TIR
1

AM
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Intesa Sanpaolo Bank B-5, Rr. 28 Nëntori, tel. +355

PO
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bashkiakorce.gov.al. I LE

GR
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Prefecture C-5, Blv. Republika, tel. +355 82 24 27

N

82 25 28 38, www.albambank.com. DE

RR

EC
R
TË

UG

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VIK

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ProCredit Bank B-5, Blv. Gjerg j Kastrioti, tel. +355 82

I
A
TIM

IM
00/+355 82 24 30 39.

MITA
KO

NG
AN

H
E
AT

D
S

JE

VANI
TIR
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L
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MALIQ
DIN

BA
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Radio-TV Korça B-6, Rr. Emin Duraku, tel. +355 82

AN
JA

24 37 54, www.procreditbank.com.al. Also on Rr. Rinia in

GO
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INO

LAKO
LL
M GA NIT

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AR AB

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ÇE

NUCI GO
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S
G

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Pogradec (tel. +355 83 22 20 55). 24 28 07. ER

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ILIA LAR
PE ST TU KO

PO

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LA

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RL RA

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Raiffeisen Bank B-4, Rr. Midhi Kostani, www.raif-
V AT L N I

ST
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SA
OJ RE LA

G
O

KA
X

RO
RI
NIK KU HE
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MA

QI
O

RG
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feisen.al. Also in Pogradec at Rr. Reshit Çollaku. QOpen

TE

A
RO

LL
JE
VA

PU
2009 events

NOLI
G
DHIMITËR RËMB

A
ECI

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V.

STAF
08:30 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

A
BL
LL

LL

FAN
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ETIT
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BLV. REPUBLIKA
AL
PE

SHËTITO
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JI VAS I KOLI TUP

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Business connections

KO

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Korça

JE
FUAT BAB

ST
RE FAN
4 4 4

HI
ICA

NG
ANI TELI ND

AN

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KONG
AS
INI

KIL

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April 16-18: Pottery fair, Blv. Republika by the cathedral.
UG

AQ

LU
ES
A EV
KONG GU

A
RE

JAN
RRUGA BILB

NOLI
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Chamber of Commerce & Industry (Dhoma e

JA
OS NAST DO ILAVE
I

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KO IRIT LA JANI DUD
AS

AN MIS
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Display and sales of pottery.
O

OR
NI

KO
PO AR JORGO

AL
4S

I
LESH
JË LU PLAKU

DH
HK

VO
S TO

Tregtise dhe Industrise), tel. +355 82 24 24 57,

QE
U RT
IS

JORD
KR
May 13-15: Sotir International Photography Competition,

SE
DHA
I

I QE
VASI LIDHJA
E PRIZRE

TA
L TR NIT

PAND
AM 4 SH

B ËR

RJE
AR

[email protected]. A KURT MBLEDH

Vangjush Mio Cultural Centre. Renowned photographers

I JA E BER

MA
TO
SOTIR ATIT
MERO

RA
KR
IST

ST
I
PAPA

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from Albania and abroad exhibit their works. GR LLAM

KU

LI
Q
AB BRO

RA

ME
SH
OC

A
BALL

JE
KA 29

IT
AMAÇ

Consulates

HE
KO

June 1 celebrations, Rinia Park: A festival for children,

IM
NË

T
RR I
Ç

XH

DH
NT

R A QI T
O UG
CA O

IN
NIK MÇ A RI TEN

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with playgrounds and activities such as painting and DO I VE E NO

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H TE FAN MI
DO ID AN

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O R RA DR

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RI
FO NË
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Find the details of all foreign embassies in Tirana on the

BAR

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G VE

drawing. KIÇ O TO DHY

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ND
AS
IS L PO
KR

FR
JAN

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I

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Tirana In Your Pocket website, at tirana.inyourpocket.com. NI IN

NO
US
June 6: Korça Carnival. Nowhere in Albania is carnival

DY
D
RA

O
PAN I

ALQ
AN RUSH

UL

AB
DEL

NI
MIT
VO ST

N
I RAKO

RA
CAL

FA
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ID NDR KO E THANAS
TASHKO

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celebrated as much as in Korça and this summer event

E
A
HA KRISTO VOKOPO JA

REXHEP SATK
NAUM

HI
PEPI

B
BA JO

JE
SO
MEHMET

T
LV
E

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Greek consulate (Konsullata Greke) C-5, Rr. Pavlo
LI SPIR VA T

D
AM IR

A
PANDELI

.
Z

SO
OK N

EV

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UL GU CALE

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with a parade of local and international groups attracts
OST M ÇIÇ

AIL
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TO

TH

TIR
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IS
5 5 5

EM
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ÇI

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Katro 4, tel. +355 82 24 57 33/+355 82 24 57 34, fax
S

MA
EVA

DER ÇA
LEA

IS
TU

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thousands of visitors.

MA

ÇI
TO
RI

LI
A
KO NI
ASLLAN SATK

PE
S

INSAN

A
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AVA
PEZË

K
EN CA E LBA PJETËR

IK
VANGJE

LI
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C EREN QE
+355 82 24 50 52, [email protected]. In th street behind RI

SPIR

BL
AS
KONF BU

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June 25 – July 6: Sculptures in the Park, Rinia Park. An in-
A

SKËN

G
NU

T
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SP

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DH

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STAVR
ICA

NE

EP
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TH EMELI

AÇ

M
KACIDHJA PETRO

MO

E PA
L KOÇI
SABAUDIN NINI LUA

KA

EN
the cathedral. Non-Albanians should phone ahead for consular
KR

BR

V.
ternational sculpting symposium, which sees the resulting
RASI ARQI

MIT
YE

NC

BL
JI
LE PO

OR
NG

UNA
JANI

EC
A
HA
A

RE
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SH
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PA

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IT

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business. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.

N ISAK

P
RAMADA JA

ARA
LO

KOM
BO
sculptures given to the city for exhibition in Rinia Park.

ËT
KO

RË
KA E
O

ALQI KO
TR QE

IT
LU
R O

OR
SH

SAM
I RS
H A MY TEVEL E DARV

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HO

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July: Lakror Pie Festival, Rinia Park. A festival set around
AQ RIT

SK
N

KIÇO
OK S I
ME NO OR

LE
SA N

PA
LA

Ë
HM O

Ç
M N VE TH IMI MI

PE
ET DR VA

R
R

I
EM S

LLAZ
HI TKO

LI

KO
the delicious traditional-style lakror or byrek pie. There’s
AF IP ZA

FE

IL
EZ O OJ JER

Culture
LI

R
NE D

II
OL

BAJRAM CURRI
AN ON

AV
I HIM

M
L XH I IM SA

XH
I IR

G
IP DH DE ÇL IT

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live music, a children’s programme and lots of pie of

ST
AV
OR DA

VA SI L TRE ICKA
MIH
I

DA
LLA B

EFA
JORG ZO E

IL
VIK RA

PE

AL
DH ANXH TI

B
S H OL L A

BA
DUK A L

NL
TIM

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KU
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course.

GR
B
AT

RA

KË
UA R
AN
MORET
E 6 DËSH

AM
BO

DU

OR
RI
I
IT

M
SH
LI RO IS

EN
UA

LA

A SI

DH
UL VË

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HA

August 13-16: Beer Fest, near Rinia Park. The biggest

AB

O
EL
P

RA
S MIA

Branding itself ‘the festive city’, Korça is the first city in TO

GD R
AN

I
AN
SO
AN

BO JETË
JA

SI
ÇIZ R IZA CEROVA O OR

I
MU
QA

Q
IT

F
R PA KL B

KU
ÇE PA IM

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P

I
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event of the year, with tens of thousands of people
IM

MIL

GU IG
VIK IL KR

RAQI GRA

UL
LO
IA IST AL NIK

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Albania to make work of organising festivals and other

LU
GJO

LL
TIM TE U

HA
ON IQ

SA

PA

R
N UK NK O

A
RO AR

ZD
AT AR EG LL

RI
UZ I

BA
MIH AS

DIA
VA I TI OV A
E KB T

A
RIO

UD
AL

enjoying beer, traditional food, beer games, music and

LE

O
RA AN NA

NJ

KA
JO LA I TI

LK
events for locals and visitors. We’ve printed a selection of

A
IN

NO
VO ÇO

O
G IS Q

IC
QIR

BO

PO

MIÇ
M

BOCKA

VE
KO
NIK N

ÇI

HN
FE AIL
DO

A
IN

ÇA
UT

KO

RO
6 6 6

AN
XH

JIK
PA

IRO
LU
TA

performances. See also www.festaebirres.com.

LA

DIS
RI
I

AS
L

SA
BR
SE TIF

IG
the main events here; you can download a full overview of

IM

SP
O

IM
KU LC

I
INA LL

EN

ST
IN

RO
NK
A MUJO ULQ

VO
A AR

BI

E
EL

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September 22: Car-free day. Experience Korça without
I

CE
ILIA

M
KS

AN
JA

PE
PA

KË
2009 events at http://korca.inyourpocket.com.
N TR

HI

ON

JA
DI EB

ER

SH
I
IC BL

I
THANAS REMAÇKA

ON
SH

UB
ÇIF KA V.

JA

N
AF
FA

A
the traffic, but with a festive atmosphere.
LIG

A
LE

UB
IL
PA

PO

OV
LU
N

XH
ND U

QE
NO

GJ

LL
QY

EN
I

IR
TAFIL FERMA LI

R
Cinemas & Theatres
BR KA LO

JE
KE TI

JO

DR
A N

Q
SO
RE JO IG

September 29: Cultural Heritage Day, Korça and

NG
SO

GA
K KO KA RA

O
U ZH

VA
RRUGA E RAVO NE

Ç
NIKUT LI RA ST DA

KO
FI IV VA NI

U
RE NG

HI
LI

Pogradec. A celebration of local culture, with events, spe-

RIK
MIÇ TO JE

S
LD

VE
O HA

OR
Andon Zako Çajupi Theatre B-5, Blv. Gjerg j
RE

HI
SH MO

RO

RX
K XH

K
RI
OD

KO
E

cial exhibitions of object or heritage places, free admission

10
AR
R PT

NTO
AN EL

TO

SH
I HA VA TO

Kastrioti. One of Albania’s oldest theatres, wi th

J SK

IS

AL
Ë D

28 NË
KR
PE IV

to museums, and more.

IH

LI
ND OG

M
AV

NGJE
INJ LI

KRIS
ËS

performances in Albanian only.

I
PE
October 25-28: Vangjush Mio Days. A festival of local
N

I VA
T

TAQ
QO
LE

RO M

Kinema Majestik C-5, Blv. Republika, tel. +355

AR

R
PO

ZE
ST

AV
LIN

IS
VIK PIR
U

ST
and international painters, with the city as their muse and
TO FO
E

AKU
RG BA

HA
SK
R R O RE
A

EF MO RL
JI

NX
ÇU

VA
UG

TIM RE N E

82 245 05 15. A lovely Art Deco-style cinema with 350

OT TI

RA
IU KA I
RR

O
inspiration for 4 days.

BLV. PA

KA
KR

LIN
IS TA

UM
QP LL I

FI
K OTE
seats that was renovated in 2001. Screenings at 17:00 and

NA
RIF

E
TI FAN

ST
STE
December: End of year fair. Korça is decorated with

RTIZA
7 7
ST

JA

NAZM
U

LE
19:30, Sat, Sun also at 11:00. Q Admission 150 lek.

KOST
M

AF
ÇU
RRUG

VASK
LO
twinkling lights and a winter fair with stalls selling toys,

YR

AJ
FA
7

O
NI
KO

YN
I

NÇ
I

TA
Ë DH
KOBA
NJ

M
ERSEKE,

Ë DU

US
HIN
ME
AEK

M
PERMËT,
sweets, baked apples, drinks like mulled wine. There’s
Cultural centres & Sports

IMA
KA

YR
SHKU
MB

SH
GJIROKASTRA RR

LL
OR

YN
GA UG A E JA

BA
OLONJ
FERI MBORJES

M
Q OA
music and exhibitions too. AQ SE

O
VR PETR

ON
IR
AZ
B I
C D BO E

SP

ÇO
TU

ËS
Skënderbeu stadium C-2/3. The Skënderbeu stadium December 30: Santa Parade. Babagjyshi, the Albanian

ÇU
CO

LE
KIÇO
RTIR
I KO

MIHA
AS MA
THAN
and sports complex includes a 7000-seat football stadium Santa, rides through town in his carriage.

ZO

L CIK
GRAF
1 Maji B-3 Dhimitraq Stratobërdha Ismail Latifllari C-6 Kristo Luarasi B-4 Mujo Ulqinaku B-6 Qemal Stafa C-4 Spiro Kosturi B-5

PAND
built in 1959 which regularly hosts matches against visiting

O
I
10 Korriku C-6 C-4/5 Ismail Qemali B-5 Kryengritja e Qershorit C-5 Mynyr Mustafaj D/E-7 Qybra Sokoli B-6 Spiro Leva B-5

I RA
Pogradec

SOTIR
teams and the Tamara Nikolla sports hall (basketball and

IDHI
28 Nëntori B-6 Dhori Lako D-3 Janaq Kilica B-4 Laskë Shuli D-5 Naum Kristo Vokopoja B-5 Rako Mitrushi D-5 Stavri Themeli D-5
29 Nëntori C-5 Dhori Luarasi C-4 Jani Dudo C-4 Lidhja e Prizrenit C-4 Ndre Mjeda B-5 RamiAraniti C-4 Stefan Andrea C-5

KUNE
volleyball are popular). For schedules of matches, see the June 21: Lake Days. The municipalities of Pogradec

HIL MO
NA

DH. ZO
POLE
SOTIR
4 Shkurti C-4 Dhori Madhi C-6 Jeronim De Rada C-5/6 Ligor Braçe B-5 Nesti Vreto C-6 Raqi Grabocka C-6 Stefan Luarasi C-6

MARK

SH
signboard opposite the cinema. and Ohrid and Struga in Macedonia organize joint events

SI
KA

SPIRI
GRAF

KRIST
6 Dëshmoret B-6 Dhorkë Sholla C-6 Jordan Misja C-4 Ligor Rëmbeci C-5 Niko Dodona B-5 Raqi Qirinxhi C-4 Tafil Fermati B-6

STAVRI
O PO
The Castle, tel. +355 69 263 20 38. An entertainment
TIRI

DON ILO
including concerts and exhibitions.

I
Abdyl Frashëri C-5 Don Gjok Buzuku B-6 Jorg ji Lubonja C-6 Llazi Kiço Samara D-5 Niko Kovaçi C-3 Raqi Themeli D-5 KRISTTeli Ndini
AQ SO D-4

AQ AN
ÇARI

ILJAZ

SHKUR
Alqi Kondi C/D-5 Duka Luarasi B-6 Jorgo Plaku C-4 Llazi Pullaqi C-4 Niko Terova
AS
C-4 Riza Cerova B-6 Teni Konomi C-5

TONIU
June: Puppet Theatre Festival. For two weeks, puppet
D

centre with go-karts and a bar, 2km south of town on the

RE

BEJ MIR
NI

TI
Alush Koprencka B-5 Eleni Gjika C-6 Jovan Çiço Kosturi C-5 Llazo Jorganxhi C-6 Nuçi Gogo C/D-3 Rruga e Bilishtit D-2 Thanas Remaçka B-6
Erseka road. troupes from Albania, Macedonia, Kosovo, Montene-

KAJO
Arqile Pojani D-5 Emin Duraku B-6 Kajo Karafili C-6 Llazo Pendavinji C-4 Nuri Cenko B-5 Rruga e Kolonjës B-7 IALEKThanas
ËR ILO Tashko D-5

AHOR
SAND
8 Asim Vokshi B-6 Evanthi Dvorani B/C-5 Kiço Greco B-5 Loni Grazhdani C-5 Pali Prifti D-5 Rruga e Mborjes VA SH TU
SH
E-7 Theodhoraq Elbasani C-5 8

BA
Thimi Mitko Library B-5, Blv. Gjergj Kastrioti, tel. gro, Serbia, Croatia, Italy and other countries compete
JU

I
NG

BIEN I
Bajram Curri B-6 Fan Noli D-4 Koçi Nole B-6 Loni Tanellari C-6 Pandeli Cale C-5 Rruga e Tiranës B-2 Thimi Mitko C-5
+355 82 24 29 49. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. with each other, entertaining both young and old while Bardhyl Pojani C-5 Feta Selca B-6 Koço Camçe B-5 Luan Shkëmbi B-6 Pandeli Vang jeli D-2 Rruga e Veteranëve C-4 Vang jel Dhamo C-6
Vang jush Mio Cultural Centre (Pallati i they’re at it. Bilbilave
Blv. Fan Noli
D-4
C/D-6
Floresha Myteveli
Fuat Babani
B-5
C-4
Koço Drenova
Koli Tupa
C-6
D-4
Margarita Tutulani
Marjeta Sevo
C-4
C-4
Pandi Kereku
Pandi Qeleshi
B-6
C-4
Sali Zavalani
Sandri Pojani
D-5/6 Vang jel Lubonja
B-5 Vang jel Qafzezi
C-6
C-4
Kulturës) B-5, Blv. Gjerg j Kastrioti, tel. +355 82 December: Wine Festival. Over three days, local wine Blv. Gjerg j Kastrioti Gaqo Koroveshi C-5 Komuna e Parisit D-5 Mbledhja e Beratit C-4 Pano Xhamballo C-3 Sedat Babani C-6 Vasil Tramara C-4
22 48 78. A centre for occasional exhibitions, concerts makers fiercely battle for the first prize in this open-air B-4, C-3 Gaqo Qeleshi B-6 Konferenca e Labinotit D-4 Mehmet Pepi D-5 Papakristo Negovani C-6 Shaban Mukollari B-6 Vasil Trebicka C-6
Blv. Partizani D-7 Gavril Pepa C-6 Konferenca e Pezës B-5 Memo Nexhipi B-5 Papallambro Ballamaçi C-4 Shetitore Fan Noli C-6 Vaso Pasha C-4
and festivals. Look out for performances by the city’s home-made wine competition. It’s cold so it’s good that Blv. Republika C-3/4/5 Gole Ruço D-5 Kongresi I Lushnjes C-4 Miço Zdrulli C/D-6 Pavllo Katro C-5 Shëtitorja Fan Noli B-5 Viktimat e Borovës B-6
A B C D E
famous Lyra Choir, the City Band and the Skënderbeg visitors are welcome to have a few sips too, best done with Blv. Republika C-4 Guri Dolani C-4 Kongresi I Manastirit C-4 Midhi Kostani B-4 Perlat Rexhepi C-4 Skënder çaçi B-5 Viktimat e Pojanit C-3
Blv. Themistokli Germenji Haki Mborja C-6 Kongresi I Permetit D-4 Mihal Ciko E-7 Petro Nini Luarasi C-5 Sofokli Maliqari C-6 Vojo Kushi C-4
Ensemble. kernacka sausages and other barbecued food. B/C-5 Hasan Bitincka B-2 Kostandin Gaçe C-3 Mihal Grameno C-6 Pjetër Bogdani C-6 Sotir Gurra C-5 Xhafer Leska Lubonja B-5
Çlirimi I Korçës D-5 Ilia Avalea B-5 Kostandin Kristoforidhi C-5 Mihal Sharrxhi B-6 Pjetër Budi C-5 Sotir Mero C-4 Xhavit Dishnica B-5
Darvin D-5 Ilia Terova B-6 Kristo Grabocka C-4 Mihallaq Qirinxhi C-6 Ptoleme Xhuvani C-3/4 Sotir Peçi C-5
Dhimitër Rëmbeci C-4 Ilia Trebicka C-6 Kristo Koroveshi B-6/7 Misto Mame B-5 Qamil Panariti B-6 Spiro Dine D-5
Instant Korça