ABOUT DUKE FABRIC

DUKE FABRIC from which I am doing my industrial training is Pvt. Ltd. company. It is under DUKE group of will group in established by three brother Nirmal Jain Kamal Jain & Anil Jain. Duke fabric is under lining of Mr. Nirmal Jain Duke is famous in market due to quality T-Shirt wear Duke is also known as King of T-Shirt Duke yarn sale in market under the name Dukon. Companys working is divided into two wings :(I) (II) Management Wing Technical Wing

Total manpower of both wings about-300.

MANAGEMENT WING
In the management section, Duke fabric-Managing director Mr. Nirmal Jain and a personnel Manager (P & A). In their underlining account, public relation, industrial relation, recruitment and human resources works are progress. In the underlining of Market Manager. All marker worker relation to parties, sale purchase work are progress.

TECHNICAL WING
Technical wing of the company was confined to the processing of material is done underlining of the dyeing general manager, processing manager for yarn & fabric for yarn and fabric processing control by the two Assistant dyeing manager.

The plant is running in full 24 hour in 2 shift. These shifts are control by the shift officer.

GREY YARN
Different quality Grey yarn is used here like. 100% cotton 100% polyester, P/c, P/V, A/c blend yarn. Different count of cotton yarn 10, 20, 2/20, 30, 25, 24, 18, 16, 40, 2/32. For P/c 20, 30, 24, 2/20 For polyester 2/205, 205, 305 Now these days only 100% cotton, 100% blend yarn is process.

QUALITY CHECKING OF GRAY YARN

Quality checking of gray yarn is very essential for the processing of cone. We have must know about the blend %age of yarn, according to which %age of color is fixed for dyeing. Also appearance of yarn is very important because if the thick places, neps thin places, slabs hairiness is more and hence by exhorts more dye. Then the other part of yarn of appear as dyeing youth test perform to quality checking are :T.P.I. Count CV% (nominal & actual) Blend %age Appearance test (To check hairiness, kitty, neps) (Which & this places) breaking strength (Nominal & Actual)

ACTUAL COUNT
Def :- It is the no. of hank having each length 840 yards/unit length is called count of yarn. Here count is calculated by the formula :Count of yarn = 64.8 __________________ Wt. gl yard yarn *120 Length 1 yard is measured from the scale. Nominal count :- Count which is written on the paper cone by the spinning will nominal count.

ACTUAL COUNT
It is count which is we calculated by the weight in method. Count variation accepted is +0.25%.

T.P.I.-TWIST PER TUCH

Here straightened fibre method is used to measure the amount of twist in single yarns. The principle involved here is that since twist is inserted into an element of yarn by the relative rotation of its two ends. To process until the fibril become 11. Have single yarn twist tester is used to measure the T.I.I. T.I. I. = No. of untwisted round __________________ 10 in 1 inch length of yarn

BLEND %AGE TEST

In industries mostly chemical method is used to cal the blend %age p/c, n/c, c/w, p/v blended yarn. In duke mostly p/c blended yarn is processed having blend composition 65/35, 48/52, 80/20.

PROCEDURE
The cotton fiber is dissolve in the 70% sulfuric acid is dissolve in the 70% sulphuric acid solution. [i.e. in 100ml] 70ml/H 2SO4, 30ml H2O] and the polyester is dissolve in the metacresol at 70c. to Col. Bland %age take a sample of 19 and dip it into the 70% h2so9 for 10 min. the cotton portion is dissolve than wash and dry than weighing the sample hence we can calculate %age blend. But in 80/20 blend we dissolve the polyester portion.

FOR N/C
Nylon is dissolve in come Hcl. Hence we can calculate the blend %age.

FOR A/C
Acrylic is dissolve NN dimethyle formal maldehyde. Sulphuric acid is not taken because acrylic us also dissolve in it.

FOR C/W
Wool is dissolve in the 5% Naoh solution. We can cal. The blend %Age.

APPEARANCE TEST
Here black board testing is used to check NEPS, thick & thin places, hairiness in yarn than grading is done.

PROCEDURE
The yarn from cone is totally wrapped over black board and then appearance checked for variation. The board is then talled with grading scale. Scale varies from :- A B C D. Where A is best, and D is poor. Finally, the comment about the yarn is given (regarding neps, hairiness) grading is done to decide whether to accept the fabric or not.

BREAKING STRENGTH
B.S. is calculated from the pendulum lever single yarn strength tester.

Formula :B.S. Wt. Applied ______________ Length Yarn The yarn is bled b/w two slider one is moving and other is stationary and load is applied the load at which the yarn breaks is indicated on the scale the length of yarn is initially measured.

GREY WINDING
INTRODUCTION
Here yarn is winded from paper cone to spring package. Yarn winded on spring package should be proper generally called properly winded is half dyed. Winded cone should be soft so dye can easily penetrate into the spring package. So cone could evenly dyed. Also fusion paper is used to prevent contamination entering into the yarn during processing. Total M/Cs 6 (1) Model-Texraj (Ahmedabad)

3 M/Cs for Grey winding which convert paper cone to spring package (Wt. G spring 170 kg to 200 kg).

(2)

3 M/C for finishing winding which convert spring package to proper (Wt. G proper 2.5 kg approve). Wt. of spring package 90g to 1.5 kg total spindle in each M/c 120.

PRINCIPAL OF WINDING
Drums are fitted on the shaft which is moving anti clock wise the Spd of motor. The spring is fitted on the spindle and moving clock wise W.R.T. the speed of the drum when incontact with it. Hence yarn is winded.

WINDING OPERATION
Paper cone is placed on the wooden plate form. Then the yarn end is passes through the tensioning device from which we control the density of cone by varying the tension on yarn with displacing the plates. Then the yarn is passed

through yarn feeler which working as a stop motion line when yarn is break then it move up hence it spindle is also move up from the surface of drum. Form yarn feeler the yarn is sprightly winded on the spring, which is placed on the spring which, is placed on the spring. Colour chart according to come is :20s count Red 30s count Green 40s count Yellow 2/20 count Blue

RUNNING OF M/C ACC. TO COUNT

(i) (ii) (iii) (iv) For a doff 2/20s yarn running time for M/C is 20-25 For a doff 20s yarn taking time 45 min. B for 30s 1.30 hr. B for 40s 2.15 hr.

DENSITY OF SPRING PACKAGE

Density of spring package should be optimum it should not more or less than 0.3 gm/cm3 5%. Optimum density is achieve by the continuously checking of yarn tension sizes of running package. We came very tension by changing tensioning disk. Also for even winding to avoid density variation anti paltering device is fitted on the M/C. Which break the pattern by varying the speed of motor.

FARMING
Density :weight (spring wt. is substracted) ____________________________ Volume

Dyeing Section
(1) (2) Yarn dyeing M/Cs Process followed for dyeing.

In Duke HTHP yarn dyeing M/C are used for Dyeing includes scouring, bleaching & finishing [all process in some vassal].

DESCRIPTION OF HTHP M/C

This M/C consist of a carrier on which cylindrical perforated vessel are placed on these spindles cheese are compress 20% - 305 of the spindle length to avoid channeling problems the top of carrier fits in to a conical seating workinga leak proof joint. The circular of the dye liquor made by centrifugal pumps and direction of flow can be reversed by suitable piping arrangement. Hence forever dyeing M/C is run inside out and outside in with suitable timing.

YARN DYEING SECTION

In this section different count knitted yarn is processed. Knitted yarn is slightly different from the woven yarn in softness and twist per the woven. Yarn and hence soft the yarn comes for the spinning wile or end by the party is in the form of paper cone (2.5 kg). In Duke the yarn is dude by the cone. Dyeing method. Hence they lastly convert the paper core to the spring package.

PROCESS FLOW IN YARN DYEING

GREY YARN GREY WINDING (paper cone to spring package) SCOURING/BLEACHING/DYEING/FINISHING HYDRO EXTRACTION R.F. DRIER FINISH YARN WINDING (spring package to paper cone) PACKING

TOTAL M/Cs 9
(1) 2 M/Cs of dalal having capacity 250kg. Total spindle 36, spindle contain 10 cone. (2) 4 M/Cs of gaston country 2 M/c having capacity 350kg. 2 have 35kg. & 12 kg. 350kg. M/C have 43 spindle 1 spindle contain 11 cones. (3) 2 M/C of Jogindra having capacity 8 kg. 1 M/C of 150 kg.

Dyes use for dyeing

1. 2. For cotton :- Reactive Dye For polyester :- disperse Dye

Reactive Dye
Reactive dyes are water soluble containing sulphonic acid as their group and reactive group like dichloro or monochloro triazine group. The reaction of these dyes take place with the functional group. The fibre is brought about by

alkali such as sodium carbonate, Sod. Hydroxide & Sod silicate. This dyeing take place in two steps. 1. Exhaustion of the dye by the addition of alkali to the formation of covalent bond b/w dye the fibre. Reaction dyes are divided into two types :(i) (ii) Cold brand Hot brand

The cold dyes brand contains dichloro dyes and is so reactive that the dyeing is carried out in the cold temp. The hot brand dyes contain monochloro triazine group and hence less reactive, carried out at high temperature. In duke only cold brand dyes are used as follow :Hot Brand :(i) (ii) (iii) (iv) (v) Red FNR Yellow FN2R Blue FNR Turquoise Blue G Black W-HF

Disperse Dyes
These dyes are sparingly soluble in water but their solubility is increased at high temperature and in the presents of dispensing agent. When dyeing aches place the conc. of the dye dissolved in the dye bath decreases and more of the dispersed dye particle dissolve in water is eventually be taken up by fiber or equilibrium dyeing is achieved. In auop method the dyeing is done for 1 hour under pressure at elevated temperature (125-130). When fiber str. is opened by the

thermal energy supplied. In yet another method, polyester fabric is padded with a disperse dye dispersion, dried and then subjected to still higher temperature (205 degree 210 degree) for short period (45-60 sec) (thermos/process). The disperse dyes are :(i) (ii) (iii) (iv) Red FBL Yellow Br. F2BL Yellow 54GL Navy F2 GDN

PROCESS FOR COTTON DYEING

Yarn-100% cotton firstly according shad scouring or bleaching is done. If Dark or extra dark shad-scouring. If light and medium shade-semi bleaching for whiter or super white-full bleach. All these scouring, semi bleaches and fulls bleach done in the same bath.

SCOURING
The object of scouring is to remove natural coloring water and added impurities of essential hydrophobic character as completely as possible and like the material in highly absorbent condition without undergoing chemical or physical damages to it and also made it suitable for subsequent dyeing.

RECIPE
[Wetting / Scouring agent] MOD SCOUR LF-2% Pressure 3kg / cm2

Temperature & holding time 100 deg, 29-30 min.

BLEACHING
The object and bleaching is the removable of natural colour, seas particle and kitty removing from the yarn. The bleaching also increase the absorbency of the material Hot bleaching hydrogen peroxide is use. Because it is a universal bleaching agent, cheat and take less time for bleaching.

RECIPE & PROCESS

Leonil TEE [wetting agent] = 0.7 gpl Lurfrabil PBE [scouring agent] = 0.5 gpl Caustic soda 2.0 gpl Soda ash 2.0 gpl Add H2O 2.0 gpl at 60 deg C. 110 degC. hold 10 min. rise in temp. 90*C & Drain

AFTER TREATMENT
Then hot wash with CPA [H2O2 Killer] 0.3 GPI 80* & 10 min. hold. Drain H/W at 95*C 10 min. hold. Neutralise with acetic acid [0.5 gpl] 60*C 20 min. hold. Ready for dyeing

DYEING
M.L. Ratio 1:8, water hardness less then 50PPM, PH before dyeing 6 to 6.5, during dyeing 10.5 Addition of dyeing chemical Leveling (0.5%) and sequestering agent (0.5%)} 40*C 20 min. hold Add Salt (quantity as per shade) at 40*C 20 min. hold Rise in temp. Add colour at 50*C [pasted with sold world and dil. with hot water] Rise temp. 3*C per. min. 60*C 20 min hold add soda at 60*V min. half [check sample] Drain and C/W for 10 min. at 30*C than neutralise with acetic acid [1.5 gpl] at 60*C 20 min. hold.

AFTER TREATMENT
Soaping {1098-0.5%, HP jet-0.2%} time acc. To shade Rinsing Fixer {4231/FRZ-1%, A/A-0.3} at 50*C 20 min. hold Softner {CHS/KRE-1%, A/acid 0.3%} at 50*C-20 min. hold. Rinsing final

DYEING OF 100% POLYESTER

For preparation for dyeing semi bleaching is done [chemical & process same as cotton] than neutralise with acetic acid 1.5 gpl 20min hold, than material is ready for dyeing.

DYEING PROCESS FPR POLYESTER

Material to liquor ratio 1:8 Water hardness less than 50 PPM PH for dyeing 4 to 4.5

PROCESS
A/acid 1.5% gpl Dispersing / leveling agent 0.3% gpl Rise in temp. Addition of colour at 80*C 10 min. hold Rise in temp. 130*C 20-30 min. hold Dec. in temp. 90*C drain

FULL BLEACH PROCESS FOR SUPER WHITE SHADE

A. For Polyester Yarn :Acetic acid 1gpl, for PH-3 Leveling agent [eganal PES] 0.5 gpl Rise in temp. Optical brightner [white R] 0.25% at 80*C Rise in temp.

130*C 30 min hold decrease in temp. Drain at 95*C

Hot wash at 89*C, 10 min hold Final

B. FOR COTTON YARN

Wetting Agent [TEE] 0.5 gpl] Wetting Agent [PBE] 0.15 gpl] Wetting Agent [1098] 0.5 gpl] Rise in temp. Caustic Soda 10.5 gpl 40*c, 10 min hold Soda ash 2 gpl 40*c, 10 min hold Hydrogen peroxide H2O2 3.5 gpl at 60*c 10 min. hold Optical Brightner ** - 0.5% at 60*c 10 min hold. At 40*c 10 min hold

Rise in temp. 110*c 45 min hold & check sample Decrease in temp. Drain at 95*c

AFTER TREATMENT
Hot wash at 80*c 10 min hold & drain Neutralise with acetic acid 1.5% at 60*c, 10 min hold Than softening with softner 1.2% at 40*c 20 min hold. And acetic acid 0.3%. Optical brightner are the colourless dyes when applied to the textile material, the material reflect more blue light which is observed as a whiter, brighter textile material. These are effective only when ultra vault radiation such as a sunlight is present.

DYEING OF POLYESTER COTTON BLEND

Here for dyeing of polyester/cotton (p/c) blend two step one both process is used. In this method firstly polyester fibre is dyed with disperse dye [process same as explained for 100% polyester] in the both at 130*c and than later in the 2 nd step in same both cotton is dyed after watching of polyester shade, with reactive dye [process same as explained for 100% cotton]. For super white shade or full bleach process also two step single both method is used process is same as explained for 100% cotton.

CHECK POINTS BEFORE, DURING AFTER DYEING BEFORE

1. Cone should be properly wind there is no variation in the in the density 0.300 gm/cm3.

2.

15 to 20% compression should be given during loading of cone according to length of spindle.

3.

Before dyeing for cotton pH should be slightly acidic or neutral [PH 6 or 7] for polyester 3-5 PH.

4. 5.

Channeling should be proper i.e. there is no leaking of pressure. Colour paste should be properly mixed.

DURING
1. 2. 3. 4. Dosing should be proper. Dyeing temperature for cotton 110*c and for polyester 130*c. Pressure during dyeing 3.5 kg/cm2. Water used should not be hard which causes stickiness problem in yarn.

AFTER
1. 2. 3. After dyeing the material should be neutralize with acetic acid. For fixation & softening PH 4-5 is required Final material should have the neutral PH.

DRYING SECTION
For drying of cones. Two M/Cs use.

HYDROEXTRACTOR

Purpose :- Its function is to squeeze the excess water or liquor from the yarn. It is infact, an enlarged from of the washing M/Cs that we have in our home. It works on the principle of centrifugal force. There are 2 hydro extractor with capacity 70kg, 40kg. Both are of local made. Hydro timing for 100% cotton 30min & for P/C 20 to 25min. R.F. Drier :- {Radio freq. Drier} Purpose :- Its function is to dry the cones. Model :- Stalam (ITALY).

Features :- Capacity 85 Kw Steam & RF DRIER FACILITY Both. Internal tube rods for lightening. In the case of high humidity atm. the speed of R.F. drier can be increased by 10%. Steam fans at last for giving moisture setup. MOISTURE % AFTER R.F. :- Cotton 4 to 5% SPEED CALCULATION :polyester 3% P/C 3-4%

(M/C Kw. X 1.2) _____________________________________ No. of cones/M seq. X weight of water in Kg.

FINISHING WINDING
PURPOSE :To wind the process yarn from spring package to cones having Wt. 2.5Kg. approx. Total three M/Cs each with 120 spindle.

QUALITY CHECK :Hardness of cones, proper waxing, softness. Hardness of cones is checked to find whether the cone is hard or soft. I is checked manually by the worker by touching the yarn while winding. Otherwise loose or very hard cone is formed which may create problem during the further process. Waxing for smooth handling of yarn during further process to reduce harshness. Then is dispatch :Random analysis of cones to check any shade variation and any short of faults, the loading of cones is done.

FABRIC DYEING

SECTION
In this section different Knit garment, fabric is dyed. The knit fabric is dyed. The knot fabric mainly comes from VENUS FABRIC LTD., DUKE FASHION, SUMEET EXPORT, KNA INTERNATINAL & GALAZE FABRIC LTD. FABRIC that is dyed mainly 100% cotton, polyester cotton blend, fabric & 100% polyester fabric.

PROCESS FLOW IN FABRIC DYEING

FABRIC GODOWN REVERSING OF FABRIC SEMI BLEACHING DYEING OF FABRIC FULL BLEACHING FOR WHITE SHADE

HYDRO EXTRACTOR

RELAX DRIER

POLE DRIER

CALENDER / COMPACTOR CHECKING / TESTING DISPATCHING

FABRIC GODOWN
Here grey fabric is stored which comes from the various party. Also grey fabric checking is done here. And than the fabric is stocked in the from of lots. At any abnormal fault such as oil stains, waxes, kitty or oil knitting fault such as needle drop, Yarn Missing also ring in the gray fabric is sorted out. If such knitting fault is present then it is sent back.

REVERSING OF GREY FABRIC

With this M/C the fabric is reserved so that during whole processing if any sort of stain or mark M/C-SPEROLOTO RIMAR.

PROCESSING OF GREY KNITTED FABRIC

Processing of grey knitted fabric includes semi bleach, full bleach, dyeing & finishing all these process are carried in the single machine. There two types of M/C are used for processing. 1. 2. WHICH DYEING M/C SOFT FLOW JET DYEING M/C

DESCRIPTION OF GREY KNITTED FABRIC

Processing of grey knitted fabric includes semi bleach, full bleach. Dyeing & finishing. All these process are carried in the single machine. There two types of M/C are used for processing :1. 2. WINCH DYEING M/C SOFT FLOW JET DYEING M/C

DESCRIPTION OF M/C Winch :It is the oldest form of piece dyeing m/c and it consist of heated container and revolving winch. Winch may be circular or elliptical. Elliptical winch are used where minimum warp tension should be required on the fabric it also agitates the cloth more by giving long short folds is suitable for dyeing both woven & knitted fabric winch dyeing machine does not give efficient motion to the fabric lying at the bottom of the machine. The fabric is irregularly piled and sometime uneven dyeing occur leveling agents are used. High liquor ratio in the winch tending to make the process expensive this machine consist of driven elliptical winch

extending the full width of a dye vat, having a perforated partition near the front end dividing the vat into two compartments. The cloth is first passed over the winch, into the dye vat and taken over a circular guide roller at the other end and after sufficient amount of the cloth is fed, the ends are sewn to gather making a long continuous loop, which is then worked in the machine. Generally winch dyeing machine are made with stainless steel, vulcanite and are fitted with stainless steel winder.

DISADVANTAGE
The main disadvantage of the winch dyeing machine is the varying temperature at different parts particularly in open winch backs, where the fabric losses heat during its passage in the air and cools the liquor when it re-enter.

SOFT FLOW DYEING MACHINE

In this machine the material is transported partly by a small driven winch and party by a jet the latter is fully submerged and pulls the cloth in a downward direction into the storage section. The latter consists of tubular sections so that there is more control over tangling. The fabric is totally submerged expect at the winch where there is an air space. The liquor flow can be controlled by throttling values and the get nozzles are inter changeable to accommodate a range of different fabric weights.

SOME CHARACTER OF THE MACHINE ARE :1. The material is propelled only by the action of the dye liquor circulated through the get. Material roller serves as guides and the clot. Through the machine.

2.

The jet is vertically upwards. Both the entrance to the jet and the exit of the tube discharging the cloth into the main storage area are open to the air. His introduce foaming problems.

3. 4.

The cloth is compact and semi-circular in section. There is an air space above the material thus giving a degree of flexibility to the liquor capacity of the machine.

5.

Cloth capacity is obtained by increasing the number of tubes in the M/C.

THE MAIN DEFECTS OF JET MACHINE ARE :1. 2. 3. 4. Foaming Tangling Creasing Surface damage by impingement of the jet on to delicate material

PROCESSING OF GREY FABRIC

For dyeing of gray fabric to light, medium, dark and extra shade semi-bleaching is doing here and for white or super white shade full bleaching process is done here.

MINIMUM

APPROXIMATE

TIME

REQUIRED

FOR

THE

COMPLETION OF THE PROCESS CYCLE IS :1. 2. 3. 4. For light shade, cycle time 10 hrs. For Medium shade, cycle time 10 hrs. For Dark & extra dark shade 12 hrs. For White shade, cycle time 5 hrs.

MATERIAL TO LIQUOR RATIO REQUIRE FOR THE CYCLE ARE :-

1. 2. 3. 4.

For semi bleach 1:7 For full bleach 1:8 For dyeing 1:10 For neutralization H/W 1:8

MAXIMUM WATER HARDNESS RANGE FOR DYEING

1. 2. 3. 4. For light shade below 25ppm For Medium shade below 40ppm Extra & heavy dark shade below 75ppm For dark shade, below 50ppm

If water hardness is more than this range uneven dyeing and strippness of colour will total No. of winch dyeing M/Cs :-

1. 2. 3. 4.

Capacity 150-200 kg Capacity 80 kg Capacity 15 kg Capacity 5 kg

TOTAL NO. OF SOFT FLOW DYEING M/CS :-8

M/C 1. 2. 3. MODEL Heartrong Caber Caber CAPACITY 200 Kg 150 Kg 250 Kg M/C TYRE Tube type Compact type Tube type NO. OF TUBE 2 tubes 1 tube 3 tube

4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Harish Gaston Country Krishna Krishna Krishna

450 Kg 200 Kg 200 Kg 200 Kg 150 Kg

Tube type Compact type Tube type Tube type Tube type

3 tube 2 tube 2 tube 2 tube 1 tube

NOTE
2nd & 5th M/C used for the polyester and polyester / cotton blend dyeing take place during dyeing to reduce the water hardness sequestering agents is used.

A.

SEMI BLEACHES PROCESS :Before dyeing of 100% cotton, polyester and P/C blend semi

bleaching is done to remove foreign particle, oil, and grease slain and also to increase the absorbency of the fabric. Rise in temp. 600C in 5 min. temp.

Colour Dosing at 600C in 10 min. Rise in temp. 30C/min.

1300C 30 min. hold Deg. in temp. 50C/min.

700C & Drain

C.

DYEING PROCESS OF 100% COTTON

Sequestering Agent : 0.5% AT 400C temp.

Leveling agent

0.5% 10 min. hold

Salt addition (Quantity Acc. to % of Colour) in 10 min. 400C 10 min hold Colour Dosing in 30 min. At 400C 10 min hold Rise in temp. 10C/min

800C, 20 min hold Deg. in Temp. 20C/min

600C, 10 min hold Soda Dosing (Qty. Acc. to Wt.) in 30 min.

PROCESS
Scouring Agent Wetting Agent Caustic Soda Per Oxide Levelling agent : : : 2% : : Rise in temp. 950C-45 min. hold Deg. in temp. Drain at 700C Hot wash at 850C, 10 min hold & drain 1% 0.2% 0.6% 0.1% At 500 600C 10 min. hold

Per oxide killer 0.25% at 800C, 20 min hold Drain Acetic Acid 1.5% 600C-20 min. hold Drain & Ready for Dyeing

C.

DYEING PROCESS FOR 100% POLYESTER

Acetic Acid Dispersing Agent Anti Creasing Agent : : : 1% 0.3% At 500-5 min hold 1.5%

AFTER TREATMENTS
1. 2. 3. 4. Hot wash at 500C, 10 min hold & Drain. Neutralisation with Acetic Acid (1%) at 500C, 10 min. hold. Soaping at 950C, 20 min hold. Softener (1%), Acetic Acid (0.2%) at 500C, 20 min. hold.

Softener are of mainly four type. And are used as there requirement. i) ii) iii) iv) Ionic Softener Cationic Softener Non-Ionic Softener Silicon Softener.

Silicon Softener is used for extra softening of the fabric and is applied on the Balloon paddle than from balloon paddle fabric sent for the drying.

Anti Bacteria Finish :- It is giving to the fabric during softening process by adding anti bacteria chemical. Which gives the resistance to the fungus. Enzyme wash :- Objective :- To remove protecting fibres and to avoid pills formation.

Chemical used :OROPAN HDG BIOSOFT SUPER TINOZYME Before :1. 2. 3. PH During Scouring 10.5 Absorbency of the fabric after scouring by drop method. Water level before dyeing to maintain material to liquor ratio. 0.5% to 1%

During :1. 2. PH of the dye bath 10.5 to 11. Liquor Level in the bath after addition of chemical and dye solution it become 1 : 10. After :1. 2. 3. 4. Check sample after completion of dyeing time. M:L for soaping 1:8 PH during softening 6 to 6.5 Final processed fabric have the PH neutral.

After completion of Dyeing process, quality of dyeing is checked i.e. washing fasteners crease lines, patches & blotches, any type of shade variation is checked. Washing fastness is checked before drying and all other is checked after drying of fabric explained later.

DRYING OF FABRIC
Machines used for Drying :(i) (ii) (iii) (iv) Hydro Extractor Padding Mangle Relax Drier Pole Drier

Depending upon the quality of the fabric i.e. its count and GSM of fabric. These factor effect the selection of m/c for fabric. If the fabric has slit line. Then it is passed through hydro extractor. Hence, for light and medium fabric, padding mangle is used. After this it is relaxed dried. And for heavy weight fabric, hydro extractor is used for squeezing purpose, then it is pole dried. Padding Mangle :Total No. of M/c 2. Make :Caber (Italy), Longia (LDH).

PURPOSE
Its acts as a squeeze i.e. it is used to remove water from the fabric. In the padded, softening can also be done, with Silicon softener which cant be added to the soft how m/c as it undergoes reaction with other chemicals added to the m/c. The squeezing rollers are made of rubber, it is a continuous process.

OPERATION
In this m/cs fabrics ends are sewing together for continous process. The fabric passed through circular ring, Air pressure is applied which result in balloon formation. This help to avoid crease mark. Then the fabric passed through squeezing rollers so that before penetration of softener takes place and excess water and softener is squeezed out. At last the fabric is taken plated out and ready for relax drying.

RELAX DRIER
Before relax drying there is crease marks on the fabric. It is checked visually. Relax drier Model Production only 1 m/c Harish (Ludhiana) 4 Tons/Day

The m/c consists of 3 Chambers. Temp in each chamber is displaced on the screen. Temp is set by pneumatic value.

Function : Drying of fabric to attain dimensional stability. No clip or pin used for stretching purpose so it is relax drier. At the outlet, there is electrode which detect the moisture present in the fabric and shows on the screen. If the moisture % is more than required, them it is again dried. Speed of the m/c depend upon the material of the fabric Polyester Cotton Hydroextractor :There are 2 hydroextractors :1. 2. Capacity Capacity 60 kg. 100 kg. 15 to 17 m/min. 8 to 12 m/min.

It works on the principle of Centrifugal force.

POLE DRIER / BAMBOO DRIER

No. of M/c 5 These poles are having holes at the bottom of the poles, there are fans which blow air, which helps in drying the fabric that is put over the poles. There is no width control in pole drier process. Speed 4-5 m/min. Production 500 kg/Day/Pole COMPACTOR MODEL FABCON, ITALY

Temp. 2750C Production .

Speed 12.5 RPM 5 Tons / Day

FUNCTION
It helps to attain the reqd, GSM and to Control Shrinkage. In this, overfeed and underfeed can be given. It more GSM required, then overfeed is given. If less GSM required, thus underfeed is given. In Compactor, permanent finish impact is attained on the fabric.

CALENDER
Through it, temporary finish impact is attained on the fabric, no shrinkage control is done, it is mainly meant for finishing purpose. CALENDER MODEL SPEED PRODUCTION 2 1 FERRARO (ITALY) 2. FAREN 15 RPM TEMP 1500C 2 TONS/DAY

In this width is adjust by stretcher fabric is attained either in plait form or in roll form.

QUALITY CHECKING
After Drying & Compaction, final quality is check. If there is any sort of dyeing fault and any other fault seen. And the fabric is sent to the production department for removal of fault.

In quality checking following points are checked :1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Washing Fastness Rubbing Fastness Light Fastness Chlorine Fastness Pilling Test Determination of PH of fabrics (Only for white shade)

WASHING FASTNESS
This test is to examine the quality of dyed shade with resistance to soap solution i.e. standing colour fastness of the specimen are checked with soap solution by this test. In this test we check the change in shade of the dyed, sample and the staining of fabric of same materials and the grading is given according to the grey scale.

PROCESS
Wt. of Dyed & undyed sample Non Ionic Soap At 600C temperature for 30 min. Grading :- According to Grey Scale :5.0 Excellent No change in shape & no staining on the undyed sample. = = 5 gm each. 5 gpl

4.0-5.0

Very Good

Negligible change in shade and negligible staining on undyed sample.

4.0

Good

Little change in shade and staining on the undyed sample.

3.0-4.0 3.0

Tolerable Poor

Change in shade and staining on the undyed sample. Change in shade, Colour Value and staining on the sample.

2.0

Very Poor

Absolutely Colour Loss/Change in shade and very much staining.

1.0

Hopeless Very Poor

Loss of Colour more than 50% depth.

RUBBING FASTNESS
To check rubbing fastness Croko-meter is used. Undyed sample is rub 10 times in 10 second against dyed sample in both dry and wet condition. Grading of this fastness is also given according to the grey scale as explain earlier in washing fastness for staining on the undyed sample.

LIGHT FASTNESS
In duke to check the light fastness the dyed sample of fabric is placed into sunlight for 24 hours. And change in the shade is check. The grading is given according to grey scale as given in washing fastness for shade change.

CHLORINE FASTNESS

Some parties also require good resistance of colour against the chlorine. So we check the chlorine fastness of the dyed sample.

PROCESS
Dyed sample is dipped into NaoCl (5%) in 1 lts. I.e. 20 mg of Naocl in 1 Lt of Water grading is done according to grey scale.

NOTE
Chlorine fastness not less than 4 value of the grey scale.

PILLING TEST
Pilling is a fabric surface fault made by little balls of entangled fibres clinging to the cloth surface. The surface of the fabric when abraded. The constituent fibres from the yarn surface get liberated and become loose, further abrasion brings out entanglement on its surface. Pilling affects adversely in processing as well as to the physical properties of the fabric like appearance handle etc. I.C.I. pilling tester is used in duke for pilling test. A piece of fabric is stitched so as to be affirm fit when placed round a rubber tube. This such tubes are placed in a box. This box are rotated to complete 18000 revolution.

STD. RESULT
1. 2. 3. Become hairy Co not pill Become hairy & pills lightly Become hairy & pills severely.

PH Determination :- Only for white shade.

BOIL METHOD
To maintain material to liquor ratio 1:25 for this test take 4 gm sample and 100ml distilled water cut fabric sample into small pieces and dip in the water on China dish and boil it for 6-7 min and cool it. Now take 10 ml water sample after above process and add 2 ml universal indicator in it. And we can determine the PH by checking the colour of the solution. Std. PH 7 of finish fabric.

Effluent treatment Plant (E.T.P.)

For the pollution control, newer techniques have been introduced and are further being developed by giving appropriate treatments to waste waters to minimise pollution. The treatment of waste water and its proper management has become a necessity to conserve the water. The main aim of water treatment is the removal of contaminate from water. Effluent treatment plant is the one of the major part of a dyeing industry. All the effluent of dyeing is treatment in this plant before draining to the sewerage. It is one of the major remedial measure by the industries to control water pollution. In Mills, biological treatment is give to the effluents with the help of bacteria and tl1is bacteria needs a proper care as it very expensive its cost about 20,000 per day and purified water 22WKL per day. i) Equalization tank All the effluent from the factory is first of all collected in the tank. In this tank equalization of the effluent is done with the help of agitators. It helps is self

neutralization of acidic and alkaline streams and also helps to simplify the effluent pH of water about 8. ii. Rapid mixer This tank is used to the addition of alkalies and remove the sludge. First, add caustic soda in it to increase the pH of the waste water. Than alum white is add and then give chemical dosing by polyelectrolyte. For 2 hours and sludge is settle at the bottom.

iii.

Clariflocculator It is very effective for removal of colour and suspended matter like starch

and gum. iv. Sand filter After clariflocculator, waste water goes to sand filter tank and remove the solid particles present in waste water. v. Carbon Contractor Is used to remove the colour present in water with the help of carbon. vi. Sludge tank In this chamber sludge is made more thicker by the process of agitation and the sludge is stored in bags and is kept inside the factory for atlest two years as it highly toxic in nature.

LABORATORY AT A GLANCE
All the shade matching i.e. dips development, blend analysis, quality checking of dyed goods, quality checking of grey goods, chemical analysis such as purity and solid content is done at laboratory.

DIPS DEVELOPMENT
Purpose of dips development is to match the lab, develop sample to the party sample to obtain the exact % of colour require and party satisfaction.

SOME BASICS FOR DIPS DEVELOPMENT

Colour :Colour is a sensation which occurs when light enters the eyes. The sun light has the seven colour violet, Blue, Blue-green, green, yellow, orange & red. Its wavelength ranges from 390mm 700mm. For a dyed or printed material to be

seen, light must be reflected from the object and be received by the eye. The colour which is observed is depend on the particular wavelength on combination of the light source. There are three term which are used to describe and specify colour.

1.

HFP :Is the common name of colour e.g. Pink, Mauve, Beige etc.

2.

Value :Is the term used to describe lightness, darkness tone or shade of the hues. A

colour is termed light in value when if approaches white and dark in value when it has a deep colour or approaches black.

3.

Chroma :Is the term used to describe depth of colour ; that is, the dullness,

brightness. A bright, it sense colour is said to have much chroma whereas a dull colour is said to have little chroma.

MIXING OF DYES FOR DIPS DEVELOPMENT

Dyed sample produce is mainly of one colour and combination of two and three colour. One colour use to produce self shade combination of colour to produce wide range of colours.

Dyes are select for combination are according to cost factor also according to matamerism i.e. light to light difference, different type of light sources are :Day light, cool white florescent, TL-86, TL-84 & ultra violet.

RECIPE PREPARATION
To prepare the recipe which match the lab develop sample to the party sample. In due firstly they take the reference from history (i.e. Already develop sample which is near to it). If not found then they take reference from the develop self shade of the dyes. Then to match the sample with party sample by increasing or decreasing the % of colour using dyeing process.

DYE % AGE SOLUTION & PIPETING FORMULA

Usually the dye solution are of 0.5%, 1%, 2% from this we can pippet out 0.25% colour to 10% colour. Procedure for dye %age solution :- e.g. :- 1% solution. Take 1gm of dye colour also take 100ml hot water. Add the colour in water stirring it upto complete desolvation. Hence 1% solution ready.

PIPPETING FORMULA
%age receipts Wt. of Sample dye % Solution e.g. for orange shade :Red F2BL Yellow Br. F2GL Blue FBL Total Colour = = = = 1% 0.5% 0.02% 1.52%

Red F2BL 1%, Fabric Sample Wt. We take %age dye solution of 1% 1 x 5g = 5ml 1

5g.

i.e. we have to pippet out 5 ml Red F2BL from 1% solution. Liquor ratio for yarn and fabric dyeing are :- 1:8 and 1:10.

Column for Salt & Soda Requirement According to total %age of colour
Common Sale Depth of Shade For 5g sample For Production 0.00% to 0.50% 0.51 to 1.0% 1.1% to 3.0% 3.1% to 10.0% 10.1% to above 20 gpl 40 gpl 60 gpl 80 gpl 100 gpl Fabric 1 gm 2 gm 3 gm 4 gm 5 gm Yarn 0.2 gm 1.6 gm 2.4 gm 3.2 gm 4 gm Soda Ash For 5g sample For Fabric Production 10 gpl 12 gpl 15 gpl 20 gpl 22 gpl 5 ml 6 ml 7.5 ml 10 ml 11 ml Yarn 4 ml 4.8 ml 6 ml 8 ml 8.8 ml

PROCESS FOR SAMPLE DYEING OF COTTON

1st Pippet out carefully the colour into the container than add water to maintain liquor ratio 1:10 (For Fabric) them add salt according to total %age of

colour than dip. wet fabric sample into the solution. Close the container tightly and fit into the m/c. Temp. 400C = 20 min. hold Soda addition at 400C temp. Rise in Temp. Temp. 600C 60 min. hold Drain

PIGMENT THEORY OF COLOUR

The effect obtained by mixing dyes or coloured pigments together are different from those resulting from the mixing of coloured lights. Thus, the combination of red & green light produces yellow, of yellow & blue lights white, whereas red and green pigments yield a dull brown, and yellow and blue pigments green because the colour effect of pigment is subtractive. Also third colour is produced because colouring matter reflects colour rays other than those of its predominating colour e.g. 1. Both yellow & blue pigments reflect green light i.e. blue absorbs the red, orange & yellow rays of light. And yellow absorbs violet & blue rays and the reflect rays of the mixture are green.

2.

Both red & yellow pigments reflect orange light, red also reflect a little yellow, yellow a little red, the luminous arrange result from their mixture. More the reflected rays of the pigments overlap the brighter is the resulting

colour. While the fewer reflected rays there are in common, the duller is the colour.

MACHINE USED FOR SAMPLE DYEING

There are three M/cs for sample Dyeing are following :1. 2. 3. Infra colour sample dyeing m/c, 11 container, 1 sensor. Innolab sample dyeing m/c, 12 container. Glycerine m/c for sample dyeing, 12 container.

Infra colour m/c automatic m/c and innolab is water both m/c. There both m/cs are used from solution sample dyeing. Glyarine is the high temperature m/c. High temp. achieve by the eating of glycerine. And this m/c is used for polyester dyeing.

AFTER TREATMENT
1. 2. 3. 4. Neutralise with Acetic Acid 1gpl Saaping (0.5 gpl) at 950C, 10 min hold. Hot wash at 700C 5 min hold Col wash, squeeze & dry.

PROCESS FOR POLYESTER SAMPLE

After Pipeting out colour add PES 0.3% and Acetic Acid 1.5%. Than rest water to maintain M:I Ratio. And the container into the Glyerine m/c.

Rise in temp

2% min.

Temp. 1300C, 30 min hold decrease in temp. Temp. 600C & Drain For the dyeing of P/C sample follow above two polyester and cotton. Istly match the polyester colour than proceed for cotton process.

TIPS FOR MATCHING OF SAMPLE

1. 2. Standard sample always take left hand side. (i) 1st check-Depth.

If depth of shade less or more than the std. Sample decrease or increase the %age of two major colour which responsible for shade. (ii) 2ndly check Tone :

It there is a tonnel difference. Than increase the %age of Colour which responsible for tone. If sample is match with std. Then sample sent for approval. To the party. After approval go for production.

CHEMICAL ANALYSIS
1. 2. 3. 4. Water Testing Purity Test of Acids Purity Test of Salt & Alkalies Purity Test of H2O2 & Salt.

WATER TESTING
AIM :- To measure the hardness of water.

APPARATUS :- Conical flask, Burret, Burret Stand, glass rod, measuring cylinder.

PROCEDURE
Take 50ml of sample of water in conical flask & add total hardness tablets, mix it completely with glass rod. Then add 1ml Ammonia buffer solution than titrate against 0.02N E.D.T.A. Solution. End Point :- Pink to Cloudy. General Calculation :Burret reading x 1000 50 for 50 ml = 1 for 100 ml = 2 in ppm

Note :- Total hardness Tablet

PURITY TEST FOR ACIDS

Aim :- To determine the purity of Acid. Apparature :- Glass rod, Measuring Cylinder, Volumetric Flask, Conical Flask, Beaker, Pippet Burret. Indicator :Phenolphthalein, 1-2 drop.

End Point :- Colourless to Pink

PROCEDURE
Take 1-2 gram of acid sample in 250 ml volumetric flask & add distilled water up to the level and shake well. Take out 10ml above solution in 250ml Conical flask and add 1-2 drops of phenolphthalein indicator. Then titrate against 0.1N NaoH. General Calculation :B.R. x 250 x Factor x 0.1 x 100 ____________________________________

Titration Volume x Wt. of Acid Sample Standard %age purity for Acid used. 1. 2. 3. For Acetic Acid 95% - 100% Pure. For Hydrochloric Acid 28% - 30% Pure. For Sulphuric Acid 48% to 50% Pure.

To Calculate Factor :Factor :Eq. wt. of sample _______________ 1000

PURITY TEST FOR ALKALI

AIM :- To determine the purity of Alkali. Apparatus :- Burret Burret Stand, Glass rod, Measuring Cylinder, Physical or Electronic balance, Volumetric flask, conical flask & beaker. Indicator :- Phenolphthalien, Indicator 1-2 drop. End Point :- Pink to colourless.

PROCEDURE
Take 1-2 gram of alkali sample in 250 ml volumetric flask & add distilled water up to the level. Now take out 10ml from above solution in Conical Flask and add 20ml of 30% H2SO4 then titrat against 0.1N KmnO4.

General Calculation :B.R. x 250 x Factor x 0.1 x 100 ____________________________________ Titration Volume x Wt. of H2O2 Sample Standard :- 48% - 50% Pure. (b) (i) Purity Test of Salt To Calculate the hardness of water with the addition of 1gpl salt.

PROCEDURE
Take 0.5 gm of salt sample & dissolve it into the 500ml distilled water (Hardness=0). Take 50ml from this in Conical Flask & add 1 total hardness tablet in the solution and also add 1ml Ammonia buffer in the solution. Titrate it with the 0.02N EDTA. END POINT : Violet to Grey General Calculation :B.R. x 1000 ______________ 50 = .. in PPM. (ii) To Calculate the Undissolve Particles in salt.

PROCEDURE
Take 100g sample of salt. Dissolve it in the water. Take 5gm semi bleach fabric sample and filter the solution with it. Now dry the sample Note it weight. From this we can get the wt. of undissolve particles in salt.

General Calculation :Wt. of undissolve Particle _________________________ x 100 Wt. of Salt Sample = .. % (C) Purity Test of Sequestering Agent.

Apparatus :Burret, Burret Stand, 500ml, beaker, Balance, volumetric flask, conical flask, pippet.

Indicator :- Total hardness indicator tablet. End Point :- Violet to Blue.

PROCEDURE
Take 0.5g of sample in 500ml, hard water. Whose hardness is already known not less than 100 PPM. Take 50ml in the volumetric flask and add total hardness indicator tablet. Also add 1 ml ammonia buffer solution to its titrate it with 0.02N EDTA. Take the burret reading. General Calculation :B.R. x 1000 _________________________ in PPM 50 Standard :- Hardness must be reduce to 40 PPM.