Install Guide for 8th Generation Honda Civic Cold Air Intake

This product may not be legal for highway use. Hybrid Racing is not responsible for any direct or indirect, actual or incidental expense attributed to the use of any performance parts sold by Hybrid Racing LLC. Purchasers agree to all of the terms of this agreement upon the purchase of parts. Features: Full Silicone Construction Most powerful 8th Gen intake on the market Built In Air Bypass helps to avoid hydrolocking Includes velocity stack Includes battery relocation kit Available couplers for large and small throttle bodies Requires tuning software like FlashPro Recommend Tools: Metric Socket and Wrench set Socket extensions Large flat head screwdriver #2 Phillips head screwdriver Pliers Drain pan for coolant 5mm allen wrench Package Contents: (1) Steel Battery Tray (1) Silicone Inlet Tube (3.5 ID) (1) Silicone Throttle Body coupler for small throttle bodies (0) Silicone Throttle Body coupler for large throttle bodies (sold separately) (1) Silicone Radiator Hose (1) Silicone Valve Cover Breather Hose (5/8 ID) (1) Silicone Air Assist Valve Hose (3/8 ID) (1) Bypass Manifold with sticker and filter element (1) 6 Inlet, 3.5 Outlet Velocity Stack (1) 6 ID Air Filter (4) SAE 56 Stainless Steel Hose Clamps (2) SAE 6 Stainless Steel Hose Clamps (2) SAE 10 Stainless Steel Hose Clamps (1) SAE 104 Stainless Steel Hose Clamp (2) M8x1.25 20mm Class 12.9 bolts (2) M8 Flat Washers

Important!! Installation should be performed by a trained technician or experienced installer. If you see terminology in this install guide that you are not familiar with, please contact the vendor you purchased the intake from for assistance. Please read the whole guide before attempting installation.

Introduction & Installation Notes

This intake system was developed for the 8th Generation Honda Civic Si. If your civic is not an Si or 8th generation, fitment is not guaranteed. We are currently in the process of evaluating fitment of this intake on the FD2 (JDM) and FN2 (EDM) civics. If you are trying to install this intake for those vehicles or any other vehicle, please contact us first to confirm that the parts will fit on your vehicle.

Install Guide
STEP 1: Locate and remove the radiator cap so that coolant will flow freely when we go to drain the cooling system. The radiator cap is located towards the front of the engine bay and will be towards the right side of the engine bay (when viewed from the front of the car), near the battery and coolant overflow tank. DO NOT remove the radiator cap until the car has fully cooled. If the car has not fully cooled, you risk being sprayed with hot steam which can cause severe burns. The engine coolant temperature (ECT) can be checked using the dashboards ECT gauge or by using FlashPro.

STEP 1

STEP 2

STEP 2: Drain the coolant. The arrow in Figure 2 shows the location of the radiator drain bung. This is located on the underside of the radiator and is accessible through a small hole in the cars plastic undertray. The bung is a white plastic plug. You can loosen it by turning it counterclockwise. Make sure the car has cooled or you risk getting burned by the hot coolant. Draining the entire cooling system is not necessary. By removing at least 1 gallon from the radiator, you will have lowered the coolant level enough to swap out the upper radiator hose later.

Install Guide

STEP 3a

STEP 3b

STEP 3: While still under the car, its a good time to remove all of the OEM bumper clips. The clips are round and black and can be removed with a flat head screwdriver. Simply put the flat head into the slot on the clip and pry up the clips center section. (See Figure 3a). Once the center section is pulled up, the flathead screwdriver can be used under the outer section of the clip to pry it out of the bumper and/or undertray (See Figure 3b). There are quite a few of these clips 10 to 20 in all. Remove all of them

STEP 4a

STEP 4b

STEP 4: There is a small Phillips head screw that affixes the edge of the bumper to the fender on both sides of the vehicle (one screw per side). The screw is accessible through the wheel well. Figure 4a shows the location of the bolt. Figure 4b shows a close up of the bolts location. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove these screws.

STEP 4

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STEP 5

STEP 5: To remove the bumper, we must first remove the black plastic cowling. The grill cover is held on by 4 clips that are similar to the clips we removed in Step 3. Their locations are shown by arrows in Figure 5.

STEP 6: With the grill cover removed, we now have access to the remaining bolts that are holding the bumper on. Use a 5mm allen wrench to remove the 2 shoulder bolts located just above the grill, next to each headlight (see the arrows in Figure 6).

STEP 6
STEP 7: Now that all of the bumpers clips, screws, and bolts have been removed, we can take the bumper off the car. The bumper is held on by a series of claps. First, grab the bumper at the tip in each fender well and pull outwards as shown in step 7. 5

STEP 7

Install Guide
STEP 8: The last step in removing the bumper is to pull it free from the clasps that are located under each headlight. Simply pull the whole bumper forward (as shown in Figure 8) to pull it free from the car. Have a firm grip on the bumper during this step as there will be no other fasteners supporting the bumper at this point. To avoid damage to your paint, set the bumper on something soft like grass, carpeting, or a large blanket.

STEP 8

STEP 9a

STEP 9: Next, we will remove the battery. Well start by removing the battery tie down. First, pull the wiring harness off of the tie down jhook. See Figure 9a and 9b for illustrations.

STEP 9b

Install Guide

STEP 10

STEP 10: Using a 10mm deep socket, remove the (2) M6 nuts that are holding the battery tie down in place. With these removed, you can remove the tie down and jhooks.

STEP 11a

STEP 11b

STEP 11: With the tie down removed, we can now disconnect the battery. Each terminal can be loosened using a 10mm deep socket. Just loosen each terminal enough so that it slides off the battery post. The negative terminal is shown in Figure 11a; disconnect this terminal first. The positive terminal has a red cap that must be lifted to access the terminal. It is shown in Figure 11b; remove this terminal last. Now that the battery has been fully disconnected, carefully lift it out of the engine bay and set it aside for now.

Install Guide

STEP 12a

STEP 12: With the battery removed, we can now remove the coolant overflow tank. Unscrew the tanks cap (as shown in Figure 12a). Set the tanks cap and hose in front of the radiator support (as shown in Figure 12b) so that it is out of the way during later steps.

STEP 12b

STEP 13: Next, just pull the tank up to free it from its bracket. It will slide right out. Be careful as the tank is filled with coolant and will spill if not kept upright. This tank will go back in later. Set it aside for now.

STEP 13

Install Guide

STEP 14a

STEP 14: Now well turn our attention to removing the OEM intake components. First, unbolt the resonator from the chassis. The resonator is located in front of the drivers side wheel (on left hand drive vehicles) and is held on with (2) M6 bolts. Use a 10mm socket and a long socket extension to access these bolts. Figure 14a shows the resonator. Figure 14b shows the location of the first bolt youll need to remove. Figure 14c Shows the approximate location of the 2nd bolt youll need to remove. With the 2 bolts removed, the resonator can be removed from the car. It has an inlet and outlet pipe connected to it, but the pipes just slide together, so no hose clamps must be removed.

STEP 14b

STEP 14c

Install Guide
STEP 15: Now we turn our attention to the airbox and its piping. First, disconnect the engine harness from the MAF sensor as shown in Figure 15.

STEP 15

STEP 16: Using a #2 Phillips head screwdriver, remove the two screws that hold the MAF in place. Pull the MAF out of the airbox and set it aside. It will be reinstalled into your new cold air intake later.

STEP 16

STEP 17

STEP 17: Next, disconnect the valve cover breather hose. It is held on with a spring type hose clamp. To remove the hose, compress the hose clamp with pliers and pull on the hose. If the hose seems to be stuck, spraying silicone spray or a similar lubricant between the hose and nipple then twisting the 10 hose back and forth will help

Install Guide
STEP 18: Next, repeat Step 17 but for the air assist valve hose shown in Figure 18.

STEP 18
STEP 19: Next, use a Phillips head screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp connecting the OEM intake to the throttle body.

STEP 19
STEP 20: Remove the tube that connects the resonator (from step 14) to the airbox. The tube that connects the two parts simply slides onto both. It takes a bit of force and wiggling to pull the hose off, but no tools should be needed. Once disconnected, the pipe can be remove that pipe from the vehicle, but it can be difficult to snake out, so you may wish to wait until you remove the airbox and battery tray to remove11 this pipe.

STEP 20

Install Guide
STEP 21: The airbox is held to the engine and transmission by (4) bolts. Use a 12mm socket and medium length extension to get to them. They are difficult to see, but arrows are shown in Figure 21 showing their approximate locations. Once all (4) bolts are

STEP 21

STEP 22

STEP 22: This step is optional. At the back of the transmission is an aluminum bracket that previously supported the airbox. This bracket is no longer needed and is an eye sore to some people. If you wish to remove it, use a 10mm socket to remove the (3) M6 bolts that hold the bracket to the back side of the transmission. STEP 23: Next, remove the upper radiator hose. Shown in this picture is one of our silicone radiator hoses with optional t-bolt clamps. If you have our t-bolt clamps, you will need a 10mm deep socket to remove them. If you have the OEM clamps, you will use a pliers to remove them like in steps 17 and 18. Once the clamps are loos12 ened, remove the radiator hose from the car

STEP 23

Install Guide
STEP 24: The lower radiator hose has a small metal bracket supporting it. Remove it using a 12mm socket.

STEP 24

STEP 25: The last part well need to remove before beginning installation is the OEM battery tray. The battery tray is bolted to the frame using (4) M8 bolts. 2 are assessable from the top of the tray, the other 2 are assessable from the side. Use a 12mm socket and extensions to remove these bolts. Figure 24 shows (2) of the (4) bolts. STEP 26: Woohooo! Time to (finally) start installing some new parts! Lets start by installing the (sexy) new battery tray. The (sexy) new battery tray will use 2 of the original 4 bolts holes (the 2 that were on top of the OEM tray). Carefully lower the (sexy) battery tray in place and install the supplied bolts and washers told hold it in place. The new M8 bolts should be tightened using an M6 allen socket. Tighten the (dry) bolts to 35 lb-ft (47 N-m). Did we mention how sexy that battery tray 13 is? Damn, girl!

STEP 25

STEP 26

Install Guide

STEP 27

STEP 27: With the battery tray secured, you can now place the battery into it. There are a few things you should know before attempting to put the battery in place. First, the battery is a pretty tight fit, so you will have to nudge the lower radiator hose out of the way. Its important that you install the battery so that its oriented the same way as shown in Figure 27. This flips the battery 180 degrees compared to its OEM location. This is important because if you dont orient the battery this way, the battery terminals wont reach. STEP 28: Before attaching the battery terminals, the negative battery cable needs to be moved to a different attachment point on the chassis so it reaches. Figure 28a shows an arrow pointing to the original attachment location. The cable is shown bolted to its new location in Figure 28b(it shares a bolt with the clutch line bracket). Once the cable is attached to its new location, you can attach it to the negative battery terminal using a 10mm deep socket.
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STEP 28a

STEP 28b

Install Guide

STEP 29

STEP 29: Attach and tighten the positive battery terminal. Tighten it using a 10mm deep socket and make sure that the protective cover is in the downward and locked position to avoid any chance of the battery grounding out. Also, take this time to reinstall the battery tie down. The battery tray has holes at the base to slide the OEM j hooks through. STEP 30: To make room for the coolant reservoirs new location, youll need to remove a small plastic clip next to the radiator filler neck. A flat head screwdriver can be used to pry the clip off. If you are concerned about breaking the clip, you can use a pliers on the opposite side of the metal it hooks into to squeeze the clip and help it to slide out. STEP 31: Next, slide the coolant reservoir onto the bracket (the bracket is part of the new battery tray). Once the reservoir is in place, you can put the cap back on it. Position the hose for the reservoir as shown in Figure 31.

STEP 30

STEP 31

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Install Guide

STEP 32

STEP 32: Install the new silicone radiator hose that was supplied with your intake. This radiator hose is designed to provide more clearance for the large intake piping. Use the hose clamps you removed from the original radiator hose to affix it in place. Before proceeding, make sure you can shift through all gears smoothly. If the transmission counterweight hits the radiator hose, loosen the hose clamps and twist the hose so that the counterweight no longer hits the hose. STEP 33: Before attempting to install the intake into your car, its wise to partially assemble the piping. Use (2) of the included hose clamps to connect the throttle body coupler (labeled 1 in Figure 33), bypass manifold (labeled 2 in Figure 33), and 3.5 inlet section (labeled 3 in Figure 33). Section 3 is symmetric, so it does not matter which end you use. When installing the 2 hose clamps as, indicated by the two red arrows in Figure 33, be sure not to over tighten these as this can damage the composite bypass manifold. Also, make sure that the clamps are as close to the end of the silicone tubing as possible. Simply tighten them enough to hold everything together. The throttle body coupler has a bend in it; try to orient the bend as shown in Figure 33. The bypass manifold has a number of ports on it, orient them as shown in Figure 33. Install one of the included hose clamps at the end of the throttle body coupler in preparation for the next step. 16

STEP 33 3 2

NOTE There are 2 different throttle body couplers available for this intake system. The coupler supplied with the kit is designed to fit the OEM throttle body as well as the very popular J35 throttle body. If you are using a larger throttle body such as an aftermarket 70mm (or larger) throttle body or the Acura ZDX throttle body, you will need to purchase the big bore coupler that we produce for this kit.

Install Guide
STEP 34: Take the partially assembled intake from Step 33 and place it into the engine bay. The inlet section should get inserted through the hole at the fender well, and the throttle body coupler will get placed on the throttle body. Once properly positioned, Tighten the hose clamp at the throttle body.

STEP 34

STEP 35

STEP 35: Next, install the velocity stack and filter. If the velocity stack and filter were supplied already connected, check the large hose clamp to ensure its tightened well. With the filter and velocity stack connected, slide the last 3.5 hose clamp over the inlet of the silicone tube, then slide the velocity stack into the silicone tube. STEP 36: Next, install the MAF into the bypass manifold as shown in Figure 36. Use the same 2 screws that held it into the OEM airbox. Once screwed in, reconnect the OEM MAF connection (on the engine harness) to the MAF.

STEP 36

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Install Guide

STEP 37

STEP 37: Next, use the supplied 5/8 ID hose and (2) SAE 10 hose clamps to connect the larger port on the bypass manifold to the breather port on the valve cover. Also use the 3/8 ID hose and (2) SAE 6 hose clamps to connect the smaller port on the bypass manifold to the Air Bypass Valve on the intake manifold.

STEP 38: With the battery tray and intake installed, its now safe to refill the radiator. Before filling the system, check the drain plug under the radiator to make sure its closed. There are few things more annoying than filling a radiator only to find that you left the drain plug open and are letting your coolant pour all over the ground. STEP 37: Its now time to start reinstalling your bumper. Just follow steps 3-8 in reverse order to get the bumper back on. Be carefull when aligning the bumper up in step 8 as its easy to get the clips under the headlights misaligned. If youre having trouble getting the bumper to line up correctly, chances are the clips under the headlights are the culprit. Try pulling the bumper off again and getting a helper to make sure the bumper lines up with the clips under one headlight while you check the other. STEP 38: Before starting the car, make sure you have a MAP-based calibration loaded into your FlashPro or similar tuning software. Do not start the car up with a MAF-based calibration as this will cause the car to run leaner than intended and there is no way to create a MAF-based tune that works properly with this intake design. Hondata provides base maps with MAP-based calibrations. Select the one most suited for your setup and upload it to your FlashPro. Every car is different, so expect some minor tweaks to be needed to make the most power and to get your AF ratios correct.

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If you have any questions or comments, please email support at [email protected] Legal Disclaimer Users assume all cost and risk associated with these or any other items purchased from Hybrid Racing LLC. Parts sold or manufactured by Hybrid Racing LLC may not meet legal requirements for use on public roads. People thinking about purchasing product(s) from Hybrid Racing LLC should check with their local and state authorities for legality. It is the users responsibility to know and comply with all local and federal laws and regulations. Use or installation of Hybrid Racing LLC products may affect user insurance and/or vehicle warranty coverage. It is the users sole responsibility for consequences that may occur due to having the product installed in his/her vehicle. Hybrid Racing LLC assumes no legal responsibilities and/or liabilities, whether to users vehicle, engine, person(s), and/or property(s), that result from the use of, or servicing of a vehicle of which a Hybrid Racing LLC product has been installed/attempted to be installed, or to any other vehicle(s) and/or person(s), regardless of whether or not this product has any involvement directly or indirectly and/or liability, and/or whether or not proper installation has been carried forth. All engines, engine parts and electrical components are for OFF ROAD USE ONLY/ RACING VEHICLES ONLY. They are not for or to be used on public roads in the USA. Acquisition of a Hybrid Racing LLC product will act as an acknowledgement of the legal disclaimer stated herein. Hybrid Racing LLC reserves the right to change this disclaimer at any time without any prior consent or notification. Should you need to contact us our details are as follows: Hybrid Racing LLC, 12231 Industriplex Suite B, Baton Rouge, LA 70809 www.hybrid-racing.com

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