Basic Silversmithing - manual of techniques & tools
Basic Silversmithing
a manual by Manuel
Shop Safety | Tool List | Example of a Compact Work Area | Sawing | | Metal Properties | Soldering | Annealing | Hammer-Work (Forging) | | Raising and Bouging | Joining Ideas | A Simple Portable Jeweler's Bench | | Transferring a Design | Reciprocal Hobby Drill | | Conserving Metal | Ring Mandrels | Time Savers | Bibliography | Resources | In Adobe Acrobat [173 KB]
Shop Safety 1. Have fire extinguisher and first aid kit on hand at all times. It is usually a good idea to have a sink with running water accessible. An aloe plant is a good companion to "workers with fire" also. 2. Do not touch an item on your heating pad, fire brick, fire screen, etc. with your bare hands! (This is an excellent accident reduction idea.) 3. Keep long hair tied back! 4. Safety glasses (not goggles) are a fairly comfortable way to save your eyesight from damage. 5. Good ventilation is a must. 6. A well-lighted studio is imperative. 7. Before you incorporate any mechanism to assist you in your working, familiarize yourself with the proper use(s) and care and safety precautions relative to the device. If none come with the machinery, find someone who knows the PROPER operation and ASK and learn from them! NEVER be afraid to ask questions!!! It's your life. 8. Make sure your work space is adequate to your needs. Adapt furniture, tables, drawers, tool access, sawing level, fire area, etc., to YOUR comfort. (Some people need a warehouse, some people just a closet.) 9. I do not condone the use of gloves. Too many chances to get 'all thumbs' syndrome and that's DANGEROUS! 10. Keep a good attitude! If it doesn't want to work, let it rest. If you truly care about what you make, let it come of its own volition. Don't force it. You create an unsafe environment for yourself and others. 11. PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE. SAFETY IS A HABIT. I could outline everything in detail, but you know yourself better than anyone. If you find these principles 'childish' or elementary, maybe you should consider a different craft or a different teacher. I have more than enough scars to show you how to learn through experience.
Tool List 1. Bench pin & clamp 2. Jeweler's saw frame and blades (2 dozen each 2-0, 4-0, 8-0) 3. Hobby-sizes reciprocal drill with 2-#68, 4-#76 bits
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Basic Silversmithing - manual of techniques & tools
4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.
Bench block (anvil) Small ball-peen hammer Needle file set Hand-held propane cannister and pencil-tip torch Fire brick (or 2 thin 'half-bricks') or heating pad 1 pair of long tong copper tweezers Three grades of solder: easy braze, medium and hard, one-foot half-inch wide strip of each 11. Soldering pick or dental tool (even a wire coat hanger!) 12. Sodium bisulfate (pickling compound) 13. Borax (20-mule team pure borax) You will also want: 1 heatable container with cover for pickle (wide and deep); 1 water container (wide and deep); 1 small saucer for borax and a cheap watercolor brush, too; one pair of safety glasses, and 1 apron. WEAR your 'HOLY' clothes! PLIERS: (Not included on original list because of the cost). When you do buy jeweler's, be sure to get a box joint, not a side lap. I find 'rosary pliers' the most practical for the money. They run about $28 a pair.
Basic Tools in photos page
Example of a compact work area
Lighting should be full, but not glaring. Direct sunlight can prove very unpleasant when
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Basic Silversmithing - manual of techniques & tools
working with a reflective metal!
Sawing
A. tensioner knob (not present on all frames) B. saw blade grippers C. gross length adjustment D. blade E. points of teeth face handle (saw cuts on downstroke only). Also blade size is generally determined by material thickness or gauge.
Jeweler's saw frame with blade 'strung'
MAIN IDEA: Relax, let the saw cut. If you force it, you spend more time replacing blades than sawing! HINT: When making a sharp turn while sawing, 'jog' in place at the point of the angle to make space for the turn.
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Basic Silversmithing - manual of techniques & tools
Metal Properties All metals interact with the oxygen in the atmosphere in some way. This process is known as oxidation (A). This surface coating must be removed (B) for a proper bonding (C) of two given metals to be joined by solder.
Some properties of silver and copper: 1. Fine silver is laboratory gradable at .999 parts in 1,000. The remaining .001 part is considered inseparable elements. 2. Sterling silver is an alloy of .925 part silver with .070 parts copper and .005 parts tin and antimony. (The copper is why sterling always needs to be polished!) 3. Copper. Industrial grade is about 60% copper and 39% tin and other hardening alloys along with 1% inseparable elements.
Melting points SOLDERS: Soft (easy) braze melts at 1325o F. Medium braze melts at 1390o F. Hard braze melts at 1423o F.
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Basic Silversmithing - manual of techniques & tools
METALS: .999 Silver melts at 1762o F. Sterling melts at 1640o F. Copper melts at 1989o F. Note: BORAX is the simplest flux.
Soldering 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Clean surfaces physically (by sanding or brushing). Assemble pieces (on work surface). Apply flux. Use solder pick to place pallions on work. Heat to solder flow (for multiple heats the General Rule is to use hard first, medium second, and soft third. I don't always follow this rule.) 6. With COPPER TONGS, put piece in 'PICKLE'. The purpose of the sodium bisulfate solution is to remove 'borax glass' or fire scale left on metal during the heating process. Leave in the pickle until the surface appears white and free of fire scale. Note: Pickle should be kept warm, but NOT HOT. Sodium bisulfate is CAUSTIC, just like battery acid. It is an electrolyte. Never put IRON into pickle. This will impart a copper tone to sterling silver. WEAR EYE PROTECTION, an APRON, and NEVER use your hands to put in or remove an item from pickle!!! USE THE TONGS! Wearing your favorite shirts and pants already ridden with holes is a good idea. Do not splash pickle around! 7. Rinse item in a bowl of water or under running water.
Annealing Metal frequently becomes brittle and hard under constant working, bending, etc. It must be annealed, or softened.
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Basic Silversmithing - manual of techniques & tools
Note: Sterling silver is an alloy that will handle a maximum of about 5 annealing processes, after which the metal loses tin and antimony and becomes easily burned and brittle and cracks. I love copper! You can anneal it to your heart's content!
Hammer-Work (Forging) (This is totally compatible with the working of Copper.)
Small Pall-peen hammer polished and rounded will serve well as a planishing and forming hammer. An inexpensive planishing hammer can be made from a garage-sale/hardware store find. Typical hammer faces (expensive): A. Forming B. Flat C. Planishing D. Rim or Collet E. Raising Metal Working Stakes (expensive) -- Pistol Grip -- Bowl or Cup -- Candle or Horn (also known as 'spout stake' -- Mushroom -- Creasing stake (Very expensive), but creaser can also be made of wood (inexpensive). -- Bowl hollowed out of a wood block (very handy)
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Basic Silversmithing - manual of techniques & tools
Raising and Bouging Stretching, thinning, and shaping are learned by experience, but can be demonstrated briefly here.
Bouging starts at the rim and works in to the middle. Stake planishing goes in reverse, from the middle outwards.
Use wrist action. Let it flow!
To spread metal evenly and flat, hammer in a spiral counterclockwise from the center to the edge, then reverse and go clockwise from edge to center. Turn the piece over and do the same on the other side. For a bowl spread (raising), do the same process, but only on ONE SIDE, the side that will be the inside of the bowl. (It should be noted that the circle for a bowl should be cut to the desired circumference + 10 times the thickness of the sheet of metal that is being used.) It is preferable to 'bouge' out the bowl with a forming hammer in a bowl mandrel and planish as above on a metal mushroom stake, depending on the desired finish.
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Basic Silversmithing - manual of techniques & tools
Joining Ideas
A. Tab B. Twisting C. Rivets
D. Folding E. Fusing with Heat F. Soldering G. Tube rivet H. Joined with loops I. Fused end of wire
USE YOUR IMAGINATION!
A Simple Portable Jeweler's Bench
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Basic Silversmithing - manual of techniques & tools
Transferring a Design
Reciprocal Hobby Drill
Operation: Grip drive, push drive down. RELEASE. Do NOT pull
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Basic Silversmithing - manual of techniques & tools
back up, as that will damage the bit. We are talking small here, since the average drill bit is .020 inch diameter. The drill only really drills one way. This takes practice. Patience helps a lot!
Conserving Metal
Keep multiple designs close to the edge. Interior cut outs are started with a drilled hole, saw unstrung. Thread saw blade through hole (design side up!) and refasten blade. Place on sawing surface (bench pin) and saw to your heart's content.
Ring Mandrels Hint: When engraving the inside of a ring, do the engraving first (while the ring shank is flat), then form the ring.
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Basic Silversmithing - manual of techniques & tools
Time Savers - Buy solder in sheet form and cut your own. - Keep saw blades in air tight DRY containers (with size clearly marked). Buy by the gross if possible. Do the same for drill bits. - Keep pickle in a container with a close-fitting cover..
IMPROVISE!
- Solder work together, THEN cut out.
- A rolling mill is an expensive tool. However, if you plan on doing a lot of jewelry or metal work, it is invaluable for forming and recycling melted scrap into usable sheet and wire.
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Basic Silversmithing - manual of techniques & tools
REMEMBER: if you buy for function instead of name, you're ahead of the game, and will have change left over. - Wire drawplates are expensive, but come in handy.
- Improvise: Learn to adapt and make your own tools.
Bibliography 1. Jewelry Concepts and Technology by Oppi Untracht. Doubleday ISBN 0-385-04185-3 Considered the BIBLE by many. About $100 2. The Complete Metalsmith: an illustrated handbook by Tim McCreight. Davis ISBN 0-87192-135-9 REAL HANDY! About $18 3. Jewelry Making and Design by Rose & Cirino. Dover ISBN 0-486-21750-7 GOOD BOOK TO
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Basic Silversmithing - manual of techniques & tools
HAVE! About $6 4. Jewelry Making: An illustrated guide to technique by D. DiPasquale. Prentice Hall ISBN 0-13509828-9 About $16 5. Jewelry Making by Hamish Bowie. Henry Regnery Co. ISBN 0-8092-7987-8 paper 6. Metalwork for Craftsmen: Step by step guide with 55 projects by E.F.Kronquist. Dover ISBN 0-48622789-8 BEST BOOK OF ITS KIND FOR THE MONEY (about $5) 7. Silversmithing and Art Metal for Schools, Tradesmen and Craftsmen by Murray Bovin. Bovin Pub. ISBN 910280-03-7 About $20 8. Silversmithing by Finegold and Seitz. Chilton Books ISBN 0-8019-7232-9. (If I ever open a school, this will most likely be the textbook I start with.) Copper Working Books: 1. Copper Work: "An illustrated Text Book for Teachers and Students in the Manual Arts" By Augustus Rose, Reprinted by Lindsey Publications Inc. 1989 ISBN 1-55918-014-5 (pbk.) Antiquated in its material, but totally suitable for todays artist! 2. ART OF COPPERSMITHING, "A practical treatise on working sheet copper into all forms". By John Fuller, Sr. 1993 Reprint by the Astragal Press* Mendham NJ, USA ISBN 1-879335-37-9. Another book also antiquated, but fully useful for anyone wishing to understand the process of working copper on stakes... Did you ever want to make a steamships vent stack? This will show you the process, as well as cups, pans, dippers, pipe and a wonderous assortment of practical items (just need some imagination and you can adapt much of this material to a present day shop and product line! (*NEWSFLASH: FINNEYS BUYS ASTRAGAL PRESS AND RELOCATES TO MINNESOTA! So be sure to look for Astragal Press titles under Finney's Publishing name. I might consider going down to their establishment and seeing if I can't offer some of these books on my site!) Pewter Working Books: 1. Pewter-Working, Instructions and projects. By Burl N. Osburn and Gordon O. Wilber. 1979 Dover Publications ISBN 0-486-23786-9 (pbk.) Many of the forge work detail can be translated to Silver or Copper! This is a wonderful book to have in your library... I have repaired pewter items many times for people as well as silver and copper or gold.
Blacksmithing Resources 1.The Countryside Agency Archive This is the set of books that taught me how to smith before I had a friend and teacher. The first book "The Blacksmiths Craft" is a MUST HAVE for any smith, professional or beginner, BAR NONE! It is the number one in my library. This is the online archive that now allows you to download (in .pdf format) the entire set of books... lucky you! I paid over $25.00 per volume for my set. 2. Edge of the Anvil: A resource book for the blacksmith by Jack Andrews. I do not have the newest version, but it is available on Amazon Books
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Basic Silversmithing - manual of techniques & tools
3. The Blacksmith: Ironworker and Farrier by Aldren A. Watson. Norton Publishing ISBN 0-393-32057x pbk. about $18.00 This book is good for those who like to really 'do it yourself'. No mamby-pamby here, from hearth to making a bellows! 4. The Complete modern Blacksmith by Alexander G. Weygers. Ten Speed Press ISBN (not given) Some good ideas, however, be careful, he is somewhat fanciful with his illustrations and not factual. (that is also why I won't list Alex Bealers book the Art of Blacksmithing... mr. Bealer I didn't find helpful at all... sorry.) 5. Professional Smithing by Donald Streeter. Astragal Press* ISBN 1-879335-66-2 This book is for those that get past the basics of smithing and need to understand duplication methods and jigs for speeding up duplication. Wonderful book, and has some really detailed imagery of box-joint works and some very fine projects in colonial styles. 6. How to Forge Weld on a Blacksmith's Anvil (For those who have diligently tried and failed) by Robert M. Heath Published by Valleyview Forge - Canton, Mississippi 1995 The only thing I can say about this book is if you don't have it,.. well you should. If there is a saint of iron burners... it is mr. Heath. His address is listed as: Robert M. Heath - 5139 Sunnyvale Dr. - Jackson, Mississippi 39211 Phone: 601-956-0361 IF mr. Heath is still about please get this book. It will save you hours of tears and screaming and running amok in blind screaming panic! I promise you there will be less iron in the scrap pile and more iron going out your door in finished product. The next two books are for sheer enjoyment and inspiration: and are available through Schiffers online catalogue Decorative and Sculptural Ironwork 2nd Ed. by Dona Z. Meilach. Schiffer Publishing Limited ISBN 07643-0790-8 (pbk) The Contemporary Blacksmith by Dona Z. Meilach. Schiffer Publishing Limited ISBN 0-7643-1106-9 (hbk) Both of these books are something I can just sit and browse through. The first book (Decorative and Scuptural Ironwork) I found in the local library years ago in its first incarnation... It disappeared from the library and I could never find it again! Then through a close friend who is also a smith I found out it was being re-published anew, and My wife Nan, got it for me as a present. Now it is starting to separate from the binding due to use!!! But I will rebind it if I have to, it is that dear to me! To see such beautiful work makes me want to do beautiful and lasting work. I think you will find both these books just as awe inspiring. And don't forget to look up any of these books (with the possible exception of mr. Heaths wonderful book UNFORTUNATELY!) on Amazon.com!
Resources Rio Grande 4516 Anaheim Ave. NE Albuquerque, NM 87109 1-800-545-6566 National & International Great catalog -- Tools, findings, supplies $$$$$$$
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Basic Silversmithing - manual of techniques & tools
FAX 1-5-5-821-5529 www.riogrande.com
Silver Tool Box 1320 NE 2nd St Minneapolis, MN 55413 (NOTE PHONE NUMBER CHANGE) Phone: 1-612-331-2590
good folks! Retail & wholesale Store Hours: 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Monday through Friday, closed holidays
Centaur Forge Blacksmith & Horseshoer supplies 117 North Spring Street Burlington, WI 53105 1-262-763-9175 1-800-666-9175 (orders only) www.centaurforge.com
If you want to see how I develop ideas for jewelry, continue on.
Please distribute freely as long as credit is given
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Copyright Manuel Colunga-Hernandez 1998-2007 Last Modified 03/26/2008 13:48:33 by Spider Woman
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