THE LOTUS FLOWER

A TEXTILE HIDDEN IN THE WATER

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THE LOTUS FLOWER
A TEXTILE HIDDEN IN THE WATER
Loro Piana
Photographs by
Bruna Rotunno
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The discovery of the lotus flower fiber comes from a gift.
Little more than a year ago, a Japanese friend, Choichiro Motoyama, a man of great elegance and culture, gave us a length
of fabric made from the lotus flower. Its pleasantly irregular appearance had the look of raw silk or antique linen. Its feel, how-
ever, was incomparable to any fabric we had ever come across before.
Wearing it was a new experience, and getting to know more about it became a need. For this reason, last March we went on
the long journey to Myanmar, the place where the lotus flower is extensively cultivated.
Since then the lotus flower has been a continual discovery rich in enchantment for us. Inle Lake on which it grows is a time-
less place; here the people live in unison with uncontaminated nature.
The flower itself is prodigious for its features, uniqueness among plant organisms, its medicinal properties, and its strong sym-
bolism and sacredness within the Buddhist religion.
The fiber that is obtained from it has no equal in nature, nor has its crafting, which must happen within 24 hours subse-
quent to the harvesting of the flowers.
Feeling certain we had discovered an extraordinary and new raw material, we began to do what was necessary to be able to
bring it into the Western world and make it known to our customers. This was an undertaking carried out in close collabo-
ration with the inhabitants of Inle Lake who, thanks to this new project, can continue to spin the lotus, thus perpetuating
an ancient tradition that would otherwise have risked extinction.
In truth, the fibers yield is very low. It is processed completely by hand and very slowly; around 6,500 lotus stems are needed
to get little more than the four meters of cloth necessary to make a single jacket. This is why the artisans who produce it tend
to abandon the spinning and weaving of the lotus for more profitable activities, often leaving the lake to head for the city.
Our intervention, and subsequent constant demand for this fabric, will allow this art to survive, and the inhabitants of Inle
Lake to stay in their native land.
This is the story of the lotus flower, the story of a product of rare nobility that we have sought to tell with passion through
the images of photographer Bruna Rotunno, who made this journey with us to Myanmar.
The fabric was the precious gift of a friend, and it is also the gift that nature has made to man in the shape of a flower with
extraordinary virtues. Similarly, these photographs were created to represent a sign of respect, a documenting of the discov-
ery of a raw material truly unique in the world.
Sergio and Pier Luigi Loro Piana
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THE LANDSCAPES OF MYANMAR AND INLE LAKE
Myanmar, also called Burma by the British, reflects an Asia of old a noble, poetic, secluded one. Modern life
comes to Myanmar for just a few hours a day and in just some of its cities. The West has barely brushed this land.
The number of visitors here is low, and tourism still hasnt affected the local inhabitants customs and traditions.
The population is a patchwork of different ethnic groups and tribes, geographically separated as well. The streets
linking the cities with the countryside are little more than dirt roads, used by trishaws and countless bicycles. Three-
quarters of the population is engaged in farming and lives a life ruled by the rhythm of the land and the seasons.
You can breathe Buddhist wisdom everywhere: whole cities are covered with temples, the golden roofs of the
stupas break up the horizon, and monks draped in bright orange and red robes hold out rice bowls to ask for
charity: they arent begging, theyre giving people the chance to do a dhana, a good deed. After you pass Yan-
gon, a growing city, one that is constantly struggling with its past and forever locked in a race toward the fu-
ture, Myanmar sinks back into an atmosphere filled with suggestion as you reach Bagan and its motionless
landscape studded with 4,000 temples. Once you have left behind the traces of history you lose yourself in a
kind of nature that is immensely rich and varied, from the central plains covered with rice paddies to the trop-
ical forests, from the mangrove-filled waters to the upland plains in Shan State, where orange groves give way
to thick wooded areas. Picturesque and mysterious scenarios open up amid the mountains: here lies Inle Lake,
a vast body of water with a surface area of about 250 square kilometers, dotted with houses and floating fruit
and vegetable gardens. Inle Lake is one of the highest lakes in Myanmar, and undoubtedly one of the most fa-
mous: a destination for tourists, pilgrimages, and a fertile and very productive area for fishing, horticulture and
local handicrafts. There is no actual coastline as the shores merge together and disappear into the surround-
ing vegetation, sweetly accompanied by the broad leaves of the lotus flower.
All around one can see the countless villages with their typical wooden houses on stilts connected by bridges sus-
pended in mid-air. This is where the Intha, or children of the lake, live. The hustle and bustle of life on the lake
and its shores is dominated by the market, the reign of the skilled local craftsmen, as well as by the monastic com-
munities in their monasteries. Each year Buddhist rites involving the lake dwellers and the pilgrims are cele-
brated: a huge procession starts out from the Pagoda of Paung Daw Oo, moving solemnly to transport the Buddha
statues to the villages. Leg-rowers wearing their traditional longyi, all lined up in perfect synchrony, glide over the
still waters. When the celebrations are over, the lake is restored to its supernatural calm, to its activities, to the un-
challenged rule of a divine flower. Here, in this enchanted place, Loro Piana has discovered natures generosity
and the legendary lotus flower fiber, the oldest raw material of plant origin processed in Asia and sacred to the
Buddhist religion. Loro Piana once again undertakes an amazing journey on Inle Lake in search of a natural, ex-
traordinary fiber that holds within it all the intrigue and sacredness of this ancient land. Myanmar: a land where
life can be hard, but where the linear flowing of human events is inseparably interwoven with the eternal history
of the spirit soul and nature, Buddhas and lotus flowers, mantras and silent contemplation.
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The air is thick with moisture and an eerie stillness
seems to suspend the passing of time,
as it awaits the peoples surrender to the slow pace of nature.
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THE LANDSCAPES OF MYANMAR AND INLE LAKE
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THE LOTUS FLOWER THE LANDSCAPES OF MYANMAR AND INLE LAKE
Shwezigon pagoda in Bagan, one of the most important in the country,
believed to be sacred because legend has it that the teeth of Gautama Buddha are enshrined there.
Previous pages
The golden roofs of the pagodas and monastery are silhouetted against the sky of Kyaing Khan village.
This page
Daylight filters into the vast halls of Shwenandaw monastery in Mandalay.
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THE LOTUS FLOWER THE LANDSCAPES OF MYANMAR AND INLE LAKE
Damarazika pagoda in Bagan.
The pagoda has five entrances: four represent the Buddhas who appeared on the earth in the past,
while the last entrance awaits the Buddha of the future.
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THE LOTUS FLOWER
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THE LANDSCAPES OF MYANMAR AND INLE LAKE
Seagulls circle freely in the moist air,
protected by the benevolent gaze of the Buddhist population.
U Bein Bridge near Mandalay is the longest wooden bridge in the whole of Asia;
since the nineteenth century it has witnessed silent monks filing by
as they return to the peace and quiet of the monastery.
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LOTUS FLOWER THE CHILDREN OF THE LAKE
Eighty per cent of Myanmars population is Buddhist.
The monks are the repositories of the most ancient knowledge
and are both a spiritual and cultural reference point.
For this they warrant deep respect.
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THE CHILDREN OF THE LAKE THE LOTUS FLOWER
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Monks with faces marked by the passing of time,
young novices wrapped in red tunics
peering out of large oval windows,
golden Buddhas and dancing cats that prance
like small tigers inside circles in the air
these are the inhabitants of the pagodas on Inle Lake.
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THE CHILDREN OF THE LAKE
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THE CHILDREN OF THE LAKE
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THE LOTUS FLOWER

Novices study at Shwe Yan Pyae monastery, located close to Nyaung Shwe on Inle Lake.
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An astringent, antiseptic and powerful defense
against the harmful rays of the sun are the extraordinary
properties of thanakha powder,
which the people of Myanmar obtain from the bark and roots
of a fragrant plant known as limonia acidissima.
It is spread over their faces and bodies to keep their skin
beautifully unblemished.
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THE CHILDREN OF THE LAKE
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THE CHILDREN OF THE LAKE
They live in wooden houses on stilts, and on long and slender boats move amid fruit and vegetable gardens,
markets and pagodas: these are the Intha, the children of the lake, an ethnic group that for centuries has in-
habited this natural jewel of the Shan Plateau. The communitys earliest settlement on Inle Lake is shrouded
in myth. The area, which has always been inhabited by the Shan, was likely occupied by the Intha in the eigh-
teenth century, when they arrived from southern Myanmar to flee from the wars between the Bamar (the rul-
ing ethnic group from which the ancient name of Burma is derived) and the Thai. But for the people of
Myanmar a thousand words are better than ten, and a simple explanation will never satisfy their fondness for
storytelling they much prefer to listen to the legend of the two brothers from Dawei. The story goes that they
arrived here in 1359 to follow the orders of a Sao Pha (Lord of the Sky), a member of the Shan. This Lord
was so pleased with the brothers loyalty and devotion to work that he asked 36 other families from the same
city to come live out on the lake. The Intha community, these children of the lake, would descend from that
nucleus. These clever people adapted to a unique environment, embracing its gifts with great respect and spirit
of initiative and, over the centuries, they developed a way of living on the lake in perfect harmony with nature.
Thanks to the shallow water, no more than five meters in depth, the Intha were able to build floating vegetable
and flower gardens close to their homes. These small islands are made from mounds of algae and aquatic
plants one meter thick and covered in soil, held down by long bamboo stems. Refined hydroponic techniques
are used to grow tomatoes, squash, peppers and melons so that the plants can develop without needing to sink
their roots into the ground. The Intha men and women, with their huge colored hats and smiling faces smeared
with thanakha, a substance that shields them from the suns rays, tend to these precious gardens while balanc-
ing on the boats. The traditional practice of rowing with one foot resting on the punt allows them to keep
their hands free and to fish by using a special cone-shaped net, which they lower by hand to the bottom of the
lake. But fishing and agriculture are not the Inthas only occupations: local craftsmanship produces goods of
exceptional worth such as exquisite lacquerwork and impalpable textiles made from the lotus flower in village
laboratories situated inside the stilt houses.
This extraordinary place, suspended midway between water and legend and teeming with an ancient life and
age-old traditions, risks impoverishment as a result of the recent depopulation that is beginning to hit Myan-
mars rural areas. That is why Loro Piana decided to meet and get to know these people rich in culture and
spirit, and to do so with respect and new-found interest in sustainability and the valorization of the resources
from the territory, thus giving these children of the lake the chance to remain in their native land and pre-
serve their traditions, within their own unique, lyrical and captivating identity.
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The lake is a reflection of the sky,
bound by lotus flowers that get smaller and smaller
for as far as the eye can see.
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THE LANDSCAPES OF MYANMAR AND INLE LAKE
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For centuries, the Intha people, numbering about 100,000,
have lived on the water of Inle Lake,
from which they draw their own subsistence in complete harmony with Nature.
Lotus flower harvesting, fishing, and fruit and vegetable
farming on floating gardens dictate the slow pace of a timeless existence.
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THE CHILDREN OF THE LAKE
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Stilt houses that are dark brown in color
break up the continuity between water and sky,
and pagodas rise up
like a multitude of prayers.
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THE LANDSCAPES OF MYANMAR AND INLE LAKE
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THE LOTUS FLOWER THE CHILDREN OF THE LAKE
A fisherman ventures out at dawn amid the floating gardens. The Intha use algae and aquatic plants to create their own floating gardens.
These very fertile gardens bear the finest fruit and vegetables that are not just sold in local markets,
but also transported to faraway Mandalay and Yangon.
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THE CHILDREN OF THE LAKE THE LOTUS FLOWER
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A lone fisherman sits on the tip of his long and slender boat,
surrounded by mountains and the lotus flowers
on Inle Lake, as he gazes enrapt at a sky broken up by a forest of pagodas.
Suddenly he leaps to his feet in an incredible show
of equilibrium that defies every law of physics.
With a swift, agile movement he wraps one leg around a long punt
and spinning like a tightrope walker glides away atop the waters surface.
THE CHILDREN OF THE LAKE
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Inle Lakes fertile waters, where the fishermen
represent only a small percentage of the total population,
about 5,000 as compared to 40,000 farmers.
THE CHILDREN OF THE LAKE
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Over the course of the twelfth century,
the legendary King Alaung Sithu would never venture out on the lake
without taking a statue of Buddha with him.
The feast of Paung Daw Oo is celebrated on the lake as a tribute
to this historical ruler, who spread the Buddhist religion across these lands.
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THE LANDSCAPES OF MYANMAR AND INLE LAKE
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THE LANDSCAPES OF MYANMAR AND INLE LAKE THE LOTUS FLOWER
The Intha rely on Inle Lake and its rhythm, waters, and canals, for which
it has become known as the Venice of the East.
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THE LANDSCAPES OF MYANMAR AND INLE LAKE THE LOTUS FLOWER
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GLI ANIMALI:
CASHMERE E BABY CASHMERE
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THE LOTUS FLOWER
Opposite
Mrs. Tin Shwe and her assistants.
The lotus flower fiber is processed in her laboratory, where for Loro Piana a regal, mysterious and one-of-a-kind fabric is created,
renewing each day a distant tradition, the treasure and identity of the children of the lake.
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THE LOTUS FLOWER
The sun is about to rise and the first light of dawn touches the water of the lake; its banks are dark and silty. All
is quiet, it seems as though nothing and no one can upset the surreal tranquillity that reigns over this spectacle.
The rays of the rising sun bear Natures most precious gifts: light, warmth, life. Little by little, this pool of water
starts to come to life and from its muddy bed emerge, as if in a dance, rosy buds that push their way through
enormous, turgid floating leaves. This is the lotus flower, Nelumbo nucifera, which from the darkness of the night
and the waters, each morning renews its ancient magic, reappearing on the surface, opening its petals to the
suns touch. As evening falls, the petals close again and the flower sinks into obscurity, only to bloom into life
again the day after, pure and immaculate.
Because the lotus flower remains uncontaminated and clean in spite of the muddy environment in which it
grows, in Buddhist culture it has become a metaphor for the ability of consciousness to reach out toward en-
lightenment, to preserve the purity of the heart and the mind by recoiling from the hatred, ignorance and il-
lusions of a corrupt material world.
The marvelous secret that safeguards the flower's candor lies in a sort of natural cleaning mechanism: the high
surface tension of its leaves and its petals, covered in a waxy substance, makes the water slide away and with
it the impurities it contains. This lotus effect has long been studied and today nanotechnologies are trying
to reproduce its characteristics on many materials made for outdoor purposes. Its broad leaves, around 60 cen-
timeters in diameter, are constantly turned toward the sun, and like sentinels watch over the lake fauna as they
defend the waters from excessive rises in temperature and evaporation in the hottest periods. A poetic and
impenetrable creature, the lotus flower keeps its noble beauty intact and makes a total gift of itself, an offer-
ing to the spirit as a sign and an inspiration. It offers itself to the senses with its elegance and grace. It offers
itself to the body with its nutritional, medicinal and cosmetic properties.
Since ancient times the people of Asia have appreciated its pulpy and crisp, sweet-scented rhizomes, its stems
and flowers, its seeds and leaves, used for soups, salads, desserts, rice and a very fragrant tea. Its curative ben-
efits have always been included in Asian phytotherapy because it is believed to be healthy and soothing for the
soul and the organism. In Myanmar, on Inle Lake, the Intha people pick the flower and extract precious fila-
ments from inside its long stems, an impalpable and elastic fiber that gives rise to a rare and precious textile,
wealth and jewel of the Orient.
Sacred symbol of the effort of humankind to elevate itself above material constraints and daily pettiness and
instead reach toward the truth, for thousands of years the lotus flower has danced on the waters with its pliant
stems and its generous leaves, that flutter lightly, following the flow of the waters and lifes creative energy.

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The boats sail forth in a labyrinth of soil-free gardens,
stilt houses and lotus flowers that delicately
cover the waters surface, disappearing when night falls, to then reappear
immaculate at the first light of dawn.
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The grace of the lotus flower is expressed through
its fresh scent, like that of the anise. Its inebriating essence is spiritual
nectar for meditation and concentration, equilibrium, harmony
and health. The smell of purity blows gently on the lake.

THE LOTUS FLOWER

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The evocative power and the extraordinary virtues of the lotus
flower associate it to the figure of Gautama Buddha,
often represented in Eastern iconography as seated upon a double flower,
with its petals turned both upward and downward,
sign of truth and enlightenment.
Legend has it that when Buddha took his first step all the lotus
flowers in the world bloomed at the same time.

THE LOTUS FLOWER

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THE LOTUS FLOWER
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FROM FLOWER TO FABRIC
The stems of the lotus flower can be up to two meters long.
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FROM FLOWER TO FABRIC
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The fineness of this fiber is quite extraordinary (c. 4 microns);
its delicacy and the ethereal lightness of a thread that seems
to challenge gravity call for a process actually resembling
a solemn ritual that requires the fibers to be constantly soaked.
Up to now modern technologies have never been used.
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Through the stems passes the breath of the flower of purity.
Here throbs its soul, where the last and most mysterious of its gifts is hidden:
the fiber of the lotus flower.
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FROM FLOWER TO FABRIC
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FROM FLOWER TO FABRIC THE LOTUS FLOWER
The stems of the lotus flower are snapped open to bring to light the precious fibers inside.
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FROM FLOWER TO FABRIC THE LOTUS FLOWER
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Great care must be taken to extract the fibers from the stems.
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FROM FLOWER TO FABRIC THE LOTUS FLOWER
Expert hands rub the fibers against a wooden plane in this first, rudimentary spinning phase.
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FROM FLOWER TO FABRIC
All of the work is done using ancient tools
operated by the agile and patient hands of the women.
The harmony of nature is fully respected,
the sacredness of the Lotus Flower intact.
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FROM FLOWER TO FABRIC
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To get a four-meter length of fabric, necessary to make a jacket,
at least 6,500 lotus flower stems are needed,
as are countless hours of manual labor to create
an exclusive, rare, royal textile.
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FROM FLOWER TO FABRIC
Manually run wooden twisters strengthen the thread.
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FROM FLOWER TO FABRIC
The nature of the fiber,
like that of the flower from which it is drawn,
obliges the people here to a slow pace.
It demands attention, care, and a detachment
from the quantitative rationale that rules our world in favor
of a mindset of total harmony with the timing
of nature in search for the quality and essence of its gifts.
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