A604 Codes
A604 Codes
A604 Codes
There are 2 different ones because the Chrysler 2.0/2.4 I4 engines use a different bellhousing than the Mitsubishi 2.5 V6. Symptom: The car won't shift out of 2nd gear. The 'Check Engine' light is on. The speedometer still works, but the car is revving up to 4000 RPM at 40-45 MPH and staying there. Likely Cause: The Input Shaft Speed Sensor (also called the Turbine Speed Sensor or I/O Sensor) went bad. (thanks CloudedVision) Likely Solution: Replace the sensor (Part #4800878). The part itself is less than $20 to replace, but be prepared to pay over $100 in labor at most shops if you don't do it yourself. Likely Cause #2: Faulty or broken TCM relay. (thanks t vago) Likely Solution #2: Try swapping the TCM relay out with another relay. The TCM relay is located in the power distribution center, in the engine bay, right beside the PCM and the TCM, near the driver's side headlight. Another possible cause could be a loose connection from the TCM wire harness connector to the tranny itself. ---------------------------------------Symptom: The car won't shift out of 1st gear. The 'Check Engine' light is on. The speedometer doesn't work for this one. You're only able to go about 30 MPH without going above 4000 RPM. Likely Cause #1: The Output Shaft Speed Sensor went bad. Likely Solution #1: Replace the sensor (Part #4800879). The costs should be about the same as the sensor above. ---------------------------------------Symptom: The transmission is slipping. The 'Check Engine' light may be on, but generally it isn't. Your engine may rev up without the car going any faster (or moving at all). It may only rev up for a short period when shifting, then slowly go back down again as the car accelerates. Either way, excessive slippage of the transmission is usually not a good sign. It generates extra heat and may break things (if they aren't broken already). Some earlier TCMs can be reprogrammed to fix minor slippage problems, but major ones are the sign of a larger problem. Likely Cause: This is a sign of mechanical troubles inside your transmission. Go easy on it; it may get you too much further without repair. Solution #1: Pay somebody a lot of money to rebuild the transmission. It will cost a lot of money, may come with a short warranty, and may fail again at any time. Solution #2: Pick up a used transmission with low mileage from a junkyard. It's not guaranteed to work, but it's a lot cheaper than option #1. Solution #3: Swap in a 5-speed manual from a Neon or a 2.0 Stratus. This option gives you more power and more reliability, but takes some work. It will also cause your 'Check Engine' light to stay on because your PCM will be looking for the TCM and not see it. Instructions can be found in the Performance forums.
17 - RAM check failure 45 - Memory Note: Each one of these codes is a specific test before start up for the controller. When the controller fails the test or doesn't match up to known information these codes are set. Each of the codes calls for replacement of the controller when they are set. These are not commonly seen codes.
Code 12 - Battery was disconnected Note: This code is provided, as reference information to tell you that battery voltage was lost to the controller.
The following codes will not cause the transaxle to go into limp in mode.
12, 19, 28, 29, 37, 38, 45, 46 The only way the codes can be pulled from the computer is with the DRBII scan tool. If you have a shop that is nice enough to give you a printout of the codes, a friend with a scanner, or access to one you can decipher these codes below for a better understanding as to what may be going on.
Code 14 - ETAX relay always on. Note: The controller shut down voltage to the etax relay. When it checked pins 16 and 17 on the controller (to see if the points opened in relay) it saw more than 3 volts present.
Diagnostic Tip To check for welded points switch the etax relay with the back up light rely. Relay Locations On controller body Passengers side fender well Driver's side fuse box Other Causes Short to ground in SA1 circuit Open in SA1 circuit between relay and
ground Open in SF1 circuit between relay and ground Open in J91 circuit from relay to ground Open in J11 circuit from relay to splice 60 pin connector problem (pins 15,16,17) Bad controller
Other Causes Open or short in N7 circuit - distributor pick up signal Bad sensor in distributor 60 pin connector problem (pin 45)
Code 19 - CD2 bus communication Code 15 - ETAX relay always off Note: Controller commanded etax relay
to energize (provide voltage to solenoid block). When it checked pins 16 and 17 for 12 volts it saw less then 3 volts present. Diagnostic Tip To check for welded points switch the etax relay with the back up light rely. Relay Locations On controller body Passengers side fender well Driver's side fuse box Other Causes Short to ground in SA1 circuit Open in SA1 circuit between relay and ground Open in SF1 circuit between relay and ground Open in J91 circuit from relay to ground Open in J11 circuit from relay to splice 60 pin connector problem (pins 15,16,17) Bad controller Note: Transmission controller is not receiving information it needs from the engine controller. Diagnostic Tip Check for opens or shorts between Pin 46 (engine controller) and pin 4 (transmission controller) Pin 26 (engine controller) and 43 (transmission controller) Other Causes Bad engine controller Bad transmission controller
Code 20 - Switched battery Note: When the controller checked pins 16 and 17 it saw less then 3 volts (this confirms that the etax relay is open). However, when it checked the solenoid pack pressure switches it saw voltage. This sets code 20. This is not a common code.
Other Causes Bad etax relay (welded points) with a open SF1 circuit between controller and splice Intermittent short to battery on SF1 circuit Bad relay with an intermittent problem Bad controller
Code 18 - Engine speed signal circuit Note: Transmission controller is not receiving information it needs from the engine controller.
Diagnostic Tip Check to see if the wrong computer is installed on the vehicle.
Solenoid pin 1 to controller pin 57 (2/4) Solenoid pin 1 to controller pin 9 (OD) Note: If none of the wires checked are opened or shorted then the controller is bad. This is very uncommon.
Note: When the controller checked the status of the pressure switches they were either opened or closed at the wrong time.
Causes 1. - If you rebuilt or installed a rebuilt solenoid block with new switch rubbers chances are the rubber seals are too big setting these codes. To confirm this install a used solenoid block (not rebuilt). If the vehicle now works the seals were the problem. 2. - The 2nd most common cause of these codes is loose fitting female connector pins in the solenoid harness. Here's How To Check Them A. - Get a # 43 / .089'' drill bit B. - Insert drill bit into each of the female pins. Drill bit must have some drag when installed and removed. Here's How To Fix Them A. - Insert # 43 drill bit into female pin. B. - Use a very small needle nose or screwdriver and squeeze the pin down against the drill bit. C. - Test for drag. 3. - The 3rd most common problem is opens or shorts. Here's How To Check For Them A. - Unplug solenoid 8 pin connector and controller 60 pin connector. B. - Use an ohm meter to check between these wires for opens or shorts. Solenoid pin 2 to controller pin 50 (Low/Rev)
Code 28 - Check PRNDL signal Note: When the controller checked the
status of the PRNDL or NSS switch they were either opened or closed at the wrong time. 1. Check for loose fitting pins on PRNDL/NSS switches or PRNDL/NSS connector end 2. Check for opens or shorts in wires between PRNDL/NSS and controller. 3. Install new PRNDL/NSS switches one at a time
valve stuck in the valve body. Important Most shops when they encounter code 38 replace both the pump and the torque converter at the same time to avoid a 3rd R and R.
43 - OD 44 - UD
Note: The controller has seen an electrical problem when it tested the solenoid circuit.
Diagnostic Tip These codes are usually set by: Opens or shorts in wiring between solenoid pack and controller. Solenoid or controller connections Bad controller Solenoid pack
Note: The computer sees the SSV stuck in the downshifted position.
Diagnostic Tip This code is usually seen after overhaul tightening VB with an impact or dirt from cooler not being flushed.
Code 50 to 55 - Speed error 50 - Speed error in Reverse 51 - Speed error in 1st 52 - Speed error in 2nd 53 - Speed error in 3rd 54 - Speed error in 4th 55 - Speed error in Neutral 9 (for future
use)
Note: The controller has seen too low or too high of a CVI to apply a clutch. CVI is the amount of time it takes for a clutch to go to 0 clearance measured in CC's
Diagnostic Tip CVI codes can be set by any of the following Broken OD pressure plate tapered snap ring Clutch packs misassembled or set too tight Misassembled accumulators Worn accumulator bores Leaking accumulator seals
Code 56 - Turbine speed sensor error Code 57 - Output speed sensor error Note: Controller has seen an excessive
change in turbine or output rpm in any gear. Diagnostic Tip If the code is intermittent chances are you have a bad connection at the input or output speed sensors caused by loose fitting female pins in the wiring ends. Do not attempt to resize the female ends in the connector. Replace the wiring ends with Chrysler kit part # 4419478. Input or output sensors can set code 39 (but, usually don't). If you want to verify if the sensors are setting the code then change them one at a time, clear the code and test drive.